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1 KANCHIPURAM THE WEAVE OF GOD A Silk City of Tamil Nadu National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai

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4 All rights reserved. The publication is the intellectual property of the Department of Fashion Communication, National Institute of Fashion Technology. It is purely for academic purposes and no part of it may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form through photocopying, recording, or any other electronic or mechanical methods. Copyright © 2022 NIFT, Chennai राष्ट्रीय फैशन प्रौधोगिकी संस्थान, चेन्नई National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai फैशन संचार विभाग Department Of Fashion Communication

5 THE KANCHIPURAM WEAVE OF G O D A Silk City of Tamil Nadu A Craft Cluster Initiative 2022 Department Of Fashion Communication Mentor- Mrs. Ashmita Mondal राषट् र् ीय फैशन प्रौधोगिकी ससं ्थान, चने न् ई National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai

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7 CERTIFICATE This is to certify that the document ‘Kanchipuram The Weave of God’ is a unique record of the work under- taken by the following students of Fashion Communication at the National Institute Of Fashion Technology, Chennai under their mentor, Mrs. Ashmita Mondal, Assistant Professor, Fashion Communication. The document is an outcome of original work with an integrity percentage of __________ where in all sources have been duly acknowledged and cited. GROUP MEMBERS Aakanksha Nitin Deshpande Abhinashi Tigga Anupraba Ashwin Madhav Kamath Elakkieya S Nishad Baburaj Reny Rabina Soreng Sathyachith K Sreepriya PS Mrs. Ashmitha Mondal Assistant professor, Department of Fashion Commmunication

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9 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT We are firstly grateful to the Ministry of Textiles, India, and the Director General of the National Institute of Fashion Technology for providing us the opportunity to visit the Craft Clusters of Kanchipuram to expand our learning. Secondly, the Director of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai, Prof. Dr. Anitha Manohar for providing us with the spirit to take this forward. We are thankful to Ms. Divya N, Centre Coordinator, Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Communication, Chennai for all the motivation and guidance throughout the entire project. We express our sincere gratitude to our Mentor, Mrs.Ashmita Mondal, Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Communication, Chennai, for her constant guidance during the visit to Kanchipuram and for the valuable feedback and suggestions to carry out this project with utmost perseverance. We also thank Mr. Lordsun Sivakumar, Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Communication, Chennai, who wholeheartedly assisted us during our visit to Kanchipuram and shaping our research work in the right way possible. We would also like to thank the guest lecturers for guiding us through the documentation process. We are immensely grateful to all the loving artisans and their families we met, interviewed, and interacted with in Kanchipuram, who spent their valuable time talking to us, and without whom this document would have been impossible. We are also thankful for the state transportation, auto drivers and the residency we stayed, for providing all the services needed to carry out the field visit successfully. Lastly, we express our gratitude to our parents and friends who have helped and motivated us to come through the long way.

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11 PREFACE India is a country with infinite treasures; it is a symbol of diversity, culture, and history. The rich living traditions of handicrafts and handlooms contribute to the magnificent richness of this land. Students in the Fashion Communication department (Semester V) had the unique privilege of taking part in NIFT’s craft cluster initiative, which was designed to sensitize students with the realities of the craft sector by providing insight into regional sensibilities, resources, diversities, and environments. The course is designed to introduce us to India’s many cultural traditions by providing them with an in-depth understanding of the craft’s history, techniques, materials, and contemporary concerns. A journey taken to Kanchipuram to observe and document the tedious process of weaving magnificent sarees turned out to be far more enlightening. Kanchipuram, with its bustling city life, delicious food, friendliest people, as well as its majestic architecture, rich history, and vibrant customs, welcomed all visitors with open arms. A saree creates a tale by incorporating the city within it; a tale composed of colours, motifs, techniques, and patterns. We students attempt to comprehend these stories and offer our understandings through a document and video in the hopes that doing so, would assist promote this handicraft and ultimately earn it the respect and recognition it deserves.

12 16 24 CONTENTS 38 INTRODUCTION 60 Textile crafts of India Saree Saree weaving PLACE City of kanchipuram Orgin and history Topography Demographics Transport and connectivity Climate THE PEOPLE Lifestyle and culture Costume and accessories Food Arhitecture Tourism and attration Art and craft Music Dance Festivals THE CRAFT About the craft History and evolution Raw materials Tools and mahinery The process Techniques Motifs Patterns Dyes and Colours

THE ARTISANS 13 Interview 166 Healh issues 132 MARKET STUDY 145 Survey Conclution 147 SWOT Analysis 149 Impact of Covid -19 150 CONCLUSION 152 156 OUR EXPERIENCE OUR LEARNINGS GLOSSARY BIBLIOGRAPHY ANNEXURE

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15 OBJECTIVE The objective to visit Kanchipuram was to experience the Silk Saree craft.The aim was to apprehend the silk industry of Kanchipuram, and what role it plays in the market. Extensive research,observation,interviews and analysis has been done to understand the process of weaving on handlooms,the culture heritage,the inspiration of colours and motifs used,the working condition of the artisans and the socio-economic elements related to the craft. The intent was to document and promote the cluster through various means.

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17 INTRODUCTION CRAFTS OF INDIA

18 TEXTILE CRAFTS OF INDIA The term “crafts,” imply either “strength” or cotton, Muslin, silk, and other natural fibres “skill,” which refers to a hierarchy of inherited were among India’s most popular products. expertise and pride. They are tales that have Changes in textile production, fabric choice, been passed down through generations. India and decorative techniques happened over time is the birthplace of many prosperous cultures. as power passed from one ruler to another in In spite of historical upheaval, invasion, and various kingdoms of India. foreign rule, the Crafts of India has maintained many aspects of the original culture. In this day India produces distinctive textiles that are easily of fast worldwide communication and global distinguishable from one another based on their shifts, it is more important than ever to ensure unique patterns, colours, and weaves. Indian the sustainability and prosperity of the arts and textiles are well-known and highly regarded crafts industry. all over the world for their quality, style, and longevity. Since the time of the Indus Valley Civilization, India has been known for its textiles. Rigveda, the Ramayana, and the Mahabharata are a few of the ancient Indian texts and scriptures that praise the craftsmanship of Indian textiles. Even old sculptures in India attest to the country’s renowned textile heritage. The figures in these works of art are dressed in exquisite, embroidered fabrics. Textiles made from

19 A person feeling the texture of saree - Kanhipuram

20 SAREE The word ‘sari’ -strip of cloth in Sanskrit is derived Saree Components - Sarees are made up of three from the Prakrit word ‘sattika’. Sarees are known primary pieces. as ‘Selai’ or ‘Pudavai’ in Tamil. One type of traditional Indian textile is the saree, a single long, Body - It is the broadest and widest part of a rectangular draped garment that can range in saree. The pleats are traditionally folded in from length from 5.5 to 9 yards. Since the Indus Valley the middle. Civilization, this garment has been worn by Indian women and hence holds great cultural value. The Border - It is the strip of contrasting fabric or an saree went through its own evolution over time, embroidered design that runs along the garment’s branching out into new styles. The saree is worn outer edge. The size of the border can be varied draped over the body, with one end fastened at based on the need. the waist and the other hung over one shoulder. Pallu (Mundhanai) - The part of the saree that One of the things that makes a saree so special is drapes loosely over the shoulder. The saree’s that each variety of saree, displays the distinctive pallu is traditionally the most intricate feature. art and culture of the location it was made in. A saree, when worn properly, brings out a woman’s dignity, grace, and beauty. It’s the kind of dress that makes a woman feel confident and in charge of her own life at any social gathering.

21 S A R E E W E AV I N G Sarees are woven by passing strands through a Indian weavers display their artistic and aesthetic loom machine in alternating directions, with one sense through the vibrant colours for the textiles, set of yarns running vertically (the warp - known innovative floral patterns, luscious textures, and as ‘Paavu’ in Tamil) and another set running intricate geometric motifs. Dedicated weavers horizontally (the weft or woof - known as ‘Sapri’ have worked incredibly hard for decades to in Tamil). Different regions of India employ a wide retain a century-old tradition at the cutting edge variety of saree weaving methods. These methods of Indian fashion, and as a result the handloom were carried out manually in the earlier times, but industry is thriving. are now done using the power-looms. However, there are a few clusters where weaving is done Cotton, silk, linen, wool, and a few synthetic manually and going through the tedious process materials are all used in the weaving of sarees making the cluster special. in India. A pure Kanchipuram saree has the warp and weft threads from the same material. Example Plain weaves are the basic weaves where the - Both the warp and weft threads of a pure silk warp and weft strands are simply interlaced with saree would be silk. Whereas, if a poly-cotton one another. It consists of a single set of horizontal saree is woven from of polyester and cotton, its and vertical threads. In some cases, an additional warp and weft do not always match up. These set of warp threads (known as the extra warp sarees are known as “blends” or “mixed” sarees. technique) or weft threads (known as the extra weft technique) are employed to generate border details and a patterned fabric.

22 SILK IN INDIA Silk, commonly referred to as “the queen of Approximately 97 % of the world’s raw mulberry fibres,” was discovered in China. The history of silk is produced in just six Indian states: Andhra silk in India dates back many centuries. For a very Pradesh, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, and West long time, the Chinese kept silk as a secret from Bengal. Tussar is produced in the states of the rest of the world. Only in the last half of the Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand, Odisha, and West first millennium BC the Silk Road or Silk Routes Bengal; Muga silk is unique to the state of Assam; were opened across Asia, linking Mediterranean and Eri silk is produced in the states of Meghalaya world as well as North Africa and Europe. At and Nagaland. Karnataka is the most prominent first countries such as India and Japan learnt the producer of mulberry silk in India, accounting for science of sericulture and soon joined in on the approximately 70% of the country’s total silk eastern monopoly of silk production. Through output. this route, traders introduced Chinese silk cloth in India. India now, following China, is the world’s second-largest silk producer. It is the only place in the world where all four of the most popular types of silk—Mulberry, Tussar, Eri, and Muga are cultivated out of which the Mulberry silk and Tussar silk is popular. Because the silk fibre has a triangle prism structure, light entering the fabric is refracted at different angles and diverse colours are created.

23 SILK SAREES While there are several varieties of sarees Kanchipuram, in Tamil Nadu, is noted for its vibrant available in India, the most coveted by far are and contrasting silk weaves, which contribute to the silk sarees. The Indian weddings ceremonies a thriving textile route. They are a symbol of are widely renowned for their ornate and sanctity and innocence. Kanchipuram sarees are vibrant customs. Everything about the wedding is particularly adaptable since the traditional heavy elaborate and colourful, from the ceremonies to gold jewellery of South India all correspond with the attire of the bride, husband, and their relatives. the style of the saree worn by the bride. There A saree is the iconic garment of an Indian bride. are many silk weaving factories in Kanchipuram, Nowadays,the silk saree has become customary displaying sarees in a array of colours and for special occasions like weddings. designs, often with elaborate gold borders. There are many centres for silk weaving in india- Varanasi silk, Tussar silk, Baluchari silk sarees, and Mysore silk sarees. Kanchipuram, Arani (Tiruvannamalai), Thirupuvanam (Sivagangai District), and the villages of Salem District are all well-known for their silk saree production in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu.

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25 THE PLACE KANCHIPURAM

26 CITY OF KACHIPURAM Kanchipuram also known as Kanchi or Kanci is In addition to its stunning temples, Kancheepuram a historic temple city in the Tamilnadu region of is well-known for its flourishing handloom industry, Southern India. The Tamil term Kanchipuram is particularly its silk sarees, which have earned composed of the syllables “Kanchi,” which means the city the name “Silk paradise of Tamilnadu” “Brahma,” and “-puram,” which means “residence.” due to its lustrous finish and exquisite motifs. In According to ancient folklore, Kanchi is derived the past, Kanchipuram was referred to as the from two words: “Ka,” referring to the Hindu “Ghatikasthanam,” or “center of education,” due god Brahma, and “anchi,” referring to Brahma’s to its status as a major religious and educational worship of Lord Vishnu at the Varadharaja Perumal hub for Jains, Buddhists, and Hindus. The city’s Temple. culture and history can be traced back to its famous rulers, including the Pallavas, Chola, The city is rich in its cultural, spiritual, religious, Vijayanagara, Arcot, and the British, who ruled and sculptural traditions. Kancheepuram, known at different times before Independence. as the “City of Thousand Temples,” is renowned for its numerous temples, many of which were built The city has also been chosen as one of the in the Dravidian style and have thousand-pillared heritage cities for the HRIDAY (Heritage City halls and massive temple towers. It is the only city Development and Augmentation Yojana) program that is holy to both Shaivites (devotees of Shiva) of the Government of India. and Vaishnavas (devotees of Vishnu).

27 ILLUSTRATION OF STREET VENDOR, SELLING FLOWERS IN FRONT OF TEMPLEE

2A8EVENING SHOT OF KANCHI KAMAKSHIAMMAN TEMPLE TOP

29 ORIGIN AND HISTORY Kanchipuram’s history dates back to before Christ. Kanchipuram underwent two decades of political Early records of Kanchipuram are documented instability after the Vijayanagar Empire’s demise. in the writings of Sanskrit grammarian Patanjali, Golconda Sultanate took the city in 1672, but and in notable Tamil classics such as ‘Manimekalai’ Bijapur took it three years later. Shivaji was invited and the ‘Perumpanattu Padai’ where the city is to Kanchipuram by the Golconda Sultanate to vividly depicted, revealing its height of civilization drive out Bijapur soldiers. The Golconda Sultanate and growth in art, architecture, literature, and governed Kanchipuram till Aurangazeb’s victory spirituality. The 4th-century Sanskrit poet Kalidasa in 1687. Kanchipuram was part of the Mughal regarded the city as the “best among cities” and viceroyalty of the Carnatic, which began the city was called “Varanasi of the south.” functioning autonomously in the early 1700s. The Marathas ruled Kanchipuram due to Islamic Kanchipuram became the Pallava Empire’s capital invasions during the Carnatic period in 1724 and around 400 AD. During the reign of the Pallavas 1740 and the Nizam of Hyderabad in 1742. in the 6th century, the city gained significance, and by the 7th century, it had reached its zenith of British rule followed. Kanchipuram was a battlefront dominance. The Pallavas defended the city with for the British East India Company in the Carnatic forts, vast moats, roadways, and artistic temples. Wars against the French East India Company and Anglo-Mysore Wars with the Sultanate of Mysore. The Medieval Chola king Aditya I conquered the The Company took control of the area during the Pallava kingdom in 890 C.E. Under the Cholas, Second Anglo-Mysore War, and the Collectorate the city was the northern vice royal capital. Raja of Chingleput was created in 1794. The district Raja Chola I titled the province Jayamkonda was separated in 1997, and Kanchipuram became Cholamandalam. In the 13th century, authority the capital of the new district. shifted from the Cholas to the Pandyas dynasty and subsequently to Krishna Devaraya of the Vijayanagar empire, who ruled Kanchipuram from 1361 to 1645.

30 LO C AT I O N A N D TO P O G R A P H Y Kanchipuram district located on Tamil Nadu’s For administrative purposes, Kanchipuram is Northern east coast, on the banks of Vegavathi divided into two divisions - River, a tributary of the Palar River. The city is surrounded by Chengalpattu District and the Bay Big Kanchi is also known as Shiva Kanchi because of Bengal to the East, Vellore District to the West, of the greater number of Shiva temples in this Tiruvannamalai District to the South, Tiruvallur section. It is the bigger of the two divisions and District to the North, and Chennai District to the occupies the western portion of the city. North. Little Kanchi is also known as Vishnu Kanchi due Kanchipuram has an area of 11.6 km2 (4.5 sq mi), to the greater number of Vishnu temples in this an elevation of 83.2 m (273 ft) above sea level, division. It is located on the city’s eastern outskirts. and 57 km of coastline. The area surrounding Kanchipuram is plain and slopes south and east. Coordinates: 12.8387 N 79.7016 E. The region’s soil is predominantly clay, with some It lies between 11° 00’ and 12° 00’ latitude loam, clay, and sand that is good for construction. and between 77° 28’ and 78° 50’ longitude. The location is believed to contain fertile rice fields The district encompasses an area of 4,43,210 and undulating terrain. Groundwater, wells, and hectares. Kanchipuram, the temple city, is the storage tanks are the primary sources of irrigation district’s administrative centre. water. The Palar river is one of the major rivers that flow through the Kanchipuram district. There *(“Kanchipuram - Wikipedia”, 2022)* are only a few hills with significant elevation in the region.

31 A ROUTE MAP OF CHENNAI TO KANCHIPURAM BY ROAD

32 ILLUSTRATION OF PEOPLE

33 DEMOGRAPHICS As per the last census conducted during the year The majority of Kanchipuram’s 1,030 acres of 2011, the Kanchipuram district had a population residential estates are located near temples. of 3,998,252, with a sex ratio of 986 females per The majority of handloom spinning, silk weaving, 1,000 males - 2,012,958 males and 1,985,292 dyeing, and rice manufacturing facilities are females. It was the second most populated among situated on around 65 hectares and 160 acres Tamilnadu’s 32 districts. Kanchipuram had a of industrial land. 220.1 acres are utilized for population density of 910 people per square transportation and communications infrastructures, kilometer, making it the fourth most populous such as bus stops, roads, streets, and rail lines. district in Tamil Nadu. *According to 2011 census. Literacy rates in the district averaged out at 75.37 Source:“Kancheepuram District Religion Data - Census percent. There were 1,006,245 families living 2011”, n.d.* there. There were a total of 1,673,814 people employed: 74,761 farmers, 162,494 major agricultural labourers, 41,149 people employed in home industries, 1,088,974 people employed in other fields, 306,436 people employed at the margins (14,582 people employed at the margins as farmers, 110,020 as agricultural labourers, 13,583 people employed at the margins as household industry workers, and 168,251 people employed at the margins as other workers).

34 TRANSPORT AND CONNECTIVITY The city is accessible through air, road, and train. By Air By Train The domestic and international airport closest to the city is Chennai International Airport, which is The city is well-served by railways and is connected 72 km away. The upcoming construction of the New to the railway network via the Kanchipuram railway Chennai International Airport (near Parandhur) station. The designation for the Kanchipuram would make the city more accessible by road. railway station is CJ (from the British Conjeevaram), and it is part of the Southern Railway Zone.There In the city, are express trains from the nation’s other main cities to Kanchipuram. Getting around in Kanchipuram is convenient due to the abundance of private and public transport. By Road Cab services like Uber, Ola, car rental services are easily available and efficient.. Cycles can be The Chennai – Bangalore National Highway, rented from cycle shops near the city bus stand. NH4, runs along the city’s outskirts. The Tamil Shared transportations are commonly used within Nadu State Transport Corporation provides daily the city. Tempos and large auto rickshaws that can bus service to and from Chennai, Bangalore, accommodate up to 10 people transport people Villupuram, Tirupathi, Thiruthani, Tiruvannamalai, back and forth at a reasonable rate. Vellore, Salem, Coimbatore, Tindivanam, and Pondicherry. The Villupuram division of Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation provides a local bus service.

AUTO WAITING FOR PASSANGERS 35 BULLOCK CARTS ARRYING GOODS PEOPLE TRAVELLING IN BUS PEOPLE TRAVELLING IN BIKES

36 PEOPLE WALKING AT NOON IN MARKET PEOPLE WALKING IN THE TEMPLE IN THE EVENING STREET VENDOR IN THE AFTERNOON HEAT.

37 C L I M AT E Kanchipuram enjoys humid and tropical weather A majority (68%) of the city’s annual rainfall year-round,withwarmsummersandrainymonsoons; (1,400 mm) occurs during the northeast monsoon, hence, the perfect time to visit Kanchipuram is which is triggered by depressions in the Bay of between the months of December and March. Bengal. 54% and 36% of yearly precipitation are contributed by both Northeast and Southwest The maximum projected summer temperature monsoons, respectively. in this district is 38.5 degrees Celsius, while the lowest is 29.1 degrees Celsius. During winter, the Pre-monsoon rains in the Kanchipuram district of highest temperature is 27.7 degrees Celsius and Tamil Nadu are quite consistent. More precipitation the lowest temperature is 19.0 degrees Celsius. falls in the coastal taluks of this district than on the inland ones. Seasonal rains are crucial to the The average relative humidity ranges from 58% survival of the people in this area, and their misery to 84% throughout the year. Humidity peaks in is increased when they don’t come. Monsoons the morning and dips in the evening; similarly, typically bring over 1200 mm of precipitation to relative humidity is highest in November–January the region. and lowest in June.

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39 THE PEOPLE DAILY LIFE

40 L I F E S T Y L E A N D C U LT U R E The people of Kanchi acquire a very simple living and have the warmest of hearts.When wandering around the streets, there was always someone who helped find the way through their guidance.The artisans, school teachers, shopkeepers, temple devotees, auto drivers or even a person riding by in a scooter are always ready to lend us a helping hand. The people here are very cultured and god fearing. Given in the upcoming pages are a few stories that are incredible in their own way; each filled with their own life stories, thoughts, ideas and anecdotes. So, sit back and prepare to be immersed in conversations filled with passion, love, discipline, responsibility ond ownership.

41 GRAND MOTHER MAKING GRAND-SON LAUGH FOR PHOTO (IN A TEA SHOP)

42 PRIEST IN THE KAILASANATHAR TEMPLE EXPLAINING ABOUT THE HISTORY TO TOURISTS

43 RELIGION AND LANGUAGE During the Pallava Dynasty, Kanchipuram became The natives of Kanchipuram speak Tamil, a a centre for the religious education of Hinduism, dravidian vernacular and official language. Due Jainism, and Buddhism. The many exquisite temples to the large immigrant population in the region, dedicated to various gods and goddesses by the several other languages besides are spoken as devotees of these religions are surely a large part well, including Telugu, Malayalam, Kannada, of the reason why Kanchipuram has become so Konkani, Marathi and Hindi. Since English is well-known as a sacred city. Later Islamic influences important to the tourism business, it is spoken by are also seen in the city through the presence of many people. mosques and Dhargas. Consequently, this city has experienced the amalgamation of several cultural streams, including Aryan, Non-aryan, Vedic, and Non-vedic, Northern, and Southern, as well as Buddhism, Jainism, Saivism, Vaishnavism, and Islam.

44 O CCU PAT I O N A N D ECO N OM Y Silk saree weaving and farming are the two The city’s position on the banks of Palar River main sources of income for the residents of means that agriculture is also a major industry. In Kanchipuram.Cotton production, light machinery this region, paddy is grown more frequently than and electrical goods manufacturing, automakers, any other crop.Groundnuts, sugarcane, cereals, plastics manufacturers, mosaics producers, cement millet, and pulses are few of the crop grown. producers, and food processors make up the bulk of the economy. Kanchipuram is home to branches of every major bank in India, including ICICI Bank, a private bank, The city’s economy is based on the silk weaving and as well as Vijaya Bank, State Bank of India, Indian handloom businesses that have made Kanchipuram Bank, Canara Bank, Punjab National Bank, and Saree famous for centuries. The majority of the Dena Bank. ATMs for these financial institutions local people is deeply rooted in the weaving can be found all around the city. industry and has been so for generations. However, many families, especially young people, have Hotels, restaurants, and public transit are all vital abandoned weaving as a profession as a result parts of the tourism and service industries. of the difficulties they’ve encountered.

45 A GRAND-FATHER TAKING HIS GRAND-SON TO LOCAL MARKET

46 AN OLDER ARTSIAN DOING THE SPINNING PROCESS

47 COSTUMES AND ACCESSORIES Attires of a region reflect their tradition and culture. Accentuating an outfit with the right accessories is Kanchipuram sarees are worn and accessorised essential. Gold jewellery is a popular accessory by the women. These sarees made from a among Kanchipuram locals. Women adorned wide range of materials, including silk, cotton, themselves with jewellery such as chains, earrings, chiffon, Georgette, and Crepes. Young women in necklaces, bangles, payal, maang tika, and more. Kanchipuram wear the Pavadai Dhavani, or Half- Moreover, ladies frequently use Gajra as a form saree, which consists of a full-length skirt, short of hair adornment. Kumkum is applied to the blouse and shawl. Nowadays, salwar kameez, middle of the eyebrows and forehead by women, jeans, and pants are all common attire for women, while Vibhuti, sandal paste, and kumkum are used in addition to the more traditional clothing. by men to have a similar effect. In addition to gold, decorations of silver, copper, and brass are The outfits worn by men are every bit as fashionable also renowned. and refined as those worn by women. Numerous hues of ‘lungi,’ a rectangular piece of material often made of cotton, is worn usually as bottom wear along with an Angavastram. The term “angavastram” refers to a piece of fabric that is worn over the shoulders. People choose to wear this now above a shirt.

48 FOOD Being a temple town, the majority of eateries Rice, the main cuisine, with dhal, sambar,rasam, here are vegetarian and feature traditional South curd, ‘kootu’ (a lentil and vegetable stew which Indian cuisine served on banana leaves and eaten means ‘add’ or ‘mixture)’, ‘porriyal’ (variety while seated on the floor. of cooked vegetables), appalam (pappad), payasam,and buttermilk complete the traditional Idlis are a portion of the unique prasad offered as south Indian lunch. People are given ‘Beeda’ - Neivedyam to Vishnu at the Varadharaja Perumal Betelvine leaf, Iime with supari to aid in digestion Temple. They are one of Kanchipuram’s most after a heavy meal. Other varieties of rice include popular and well-known dishes. It is composed of the lemon rice, and Puliyogare - tamarind rice rice, lentils, cumin, pepper, and ginger powder. In mixed with crushed nuts, peanuts, and coconut. contrast to traditional idly, the rice is pounded into Dosa, idli, pongal, puttu, appam, idiappam, and smaller grains and steamed in a bamboo basket uthapam are usually available for morning, along lined with the leaves of the Bauhinia plant also with sambhar and any combination of chutneys or called as Mandharai in Tamil and Mountain Ebony coconut milk. in English. Steaming idlis with Mandharai leaves imparts a distinctive flavour and aroma. The Idly It is also difficult to resist the cheap but delicious appears grainy and slightly oilier, as opposed local street cuisine, which includes hot and crispy to typical idly, which is smooth. The flavour is chilli, banana or onion bajji, vadai, and bonda distinctive and still cherished by thousands. served with hot tea or coffee.

49 ILLUSTRATION OF IDLI VADA WITH SAMBAR , COCONUT CHUTNEY AND MINT CHUTNEY

50 PERSON MEDITATING BETWEEN PILLARS OF THE KAILASANATHAR TEMPLE