Bagru Craft Cluster Documentation

Craft Cluster Research Document Bagru Hand Block Printiting MUDRAN an initiative by National Institute of Fashion Technology New Delhi



Far away from the city lights ,in the land of the kings, there lies a community that has spent generations attempting to preserve 400-year-old art of natural hand block printing.



Acknow ledgem ent The Craft Research and Documentation project has helped expand our horizon as designers and instilled a sense of appreciation for indigenous Indian craft practises that have stood the test of time. We want to thank the National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, for providing us with an opportunity to connect with the craftsmen practising Bagru and Dabu hand block printing through an online mode. We would also like to express our gratitude forward to our mentor, Prof. Anuttama Chakraborty, for providing assistance, guidance, and feedback throughout the project. The cluster research and Documentation would not have been possible without the extended support from the Department of Fashion Design, NIFT New Delhi. We want to thank Prof.Dr. Bani Jha, Prof.Dr. Purva Khurana, Prof.Dr. Monika Gupta, Prof. Nainika Thakur Mehta and Ms Shresha Rai for introducing us to the concept of Research Methodology and providing us with their valuable feedback that helped us compile this document to the best of our capa- bilities. We would also like to thank the department coordinator Mr Hari Govid for providing on-spot assistance and access to resources online. We want to express our gratitude to Prof.Dr Vijay Dua (Department of Fashion Communi- cation) for providing us with the software knowledge and technical input to structure this project and Prof. Smita Som (Department of Knitwear Design) for this project introducing us to the layout of the Documentation. A special thanks to our facilitator Mr Pankaj Sonawa for making this virtual visit to a craft cluster as seamless as possible. With his efforts, we interacted with the different artisans for a week and observed them performing the craft in their field and production units. We are very grateful to the artisans and their families for sharing their craft knowledge with us.

Contr i butor s (Group Head) YASHIKA CHAUDHARY (Group Members) ANMOL TTORIA || KESA FATIMA || MAHAK NAGARIA || MANSI MISHRA || SATYAM CHANDRA DEY || SUPRIYA LAL

Abstract Craft Research and Documentation (CRD) is an initiative taken by NIFT that provides students with an opportunity to understand a specific craft in-depth and gather information about the traditional communities of crafts makers, its users and clusters. The objective is to abridge the gap between artisans and students and instil a sense of appreciation amongst the future de- signers for the indigenous craft practises that have stood the test of time. This year while the world is struggling to overcome the repercussions of the COVID-19 pandemic, CRD was held online. Students and artisans interacted virtually with the help of a facilitator. This document focuses on the 400-year-old craft technique of natural hand block printing, practised in a remote village of Rajasthan - Bagru. The documentation digs deeper into the process that starts from cutting the grey fabric and ends with a fully finished hand block printed fabric. It systematically records the pre-production, production and post production processes taken up by the craftsmen, emphasising the kind of colour combinations and dyes used, motifs and indigenous methods adopted by the craftsmen. It also traces the evolution of craft and how it has been contemporised to meet the demands of the modern consumer market. Further, the documentation narrates the stories of those craftsmen who dedicated their lives to this craft. The future of craft and scope of expansion in domestic and global markets through collaborations has also been discussed while acknowledging the various stakeholders.

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Fig.1 A Rajasthani Man in the Traditional Attire 1

Rajasthan 2

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Fig 1.1 A camel from the Camel Fair Source: Pinterest 5

Introduction Under the bright sun of Thar desert side. The oldest mountain range in lies the pride of Rajput rulers, the the world, Aravalli, runs throughout land of kings - Rajasthan. The the state from southwest to city is known for its vast expanse, northeast. Mount Abu is the prominent forts and palaces, highest peak. The Great Indian colourful streets, vibrant culture Deserts cover The northwestern and sumptuous cuisines. part of the state. Located in the northwestern Rajasthan is characterized by hot part of the Indian subcontinent, and humid climatic conditions expanding over a region of with low rainfall. During the peak 3,42,239 sq kilometres, Rajasthan summer months, the temperature is India’s largest state. The state reaches as high as 45 degrees shares borders with Pakistan on Celsius, while the temperature one side and five states of Punjab, hits below the freezing points in Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Madhya winters. The month of September Pradesh and Gujarat on the other is the best time to visit the city.

D emographics A study of Place, People & communities Established - 30 March,1949 Capital - Jaipur Area - 32,239 km2 Area Rank - 1st Population - 68,548,437 Population Rank - 7th Density - 200 people per sq km Sex Ratio - 928(F)/1000(M) Fig 1.2 Political Map of Rajasthan Source: Self Illustrated Literacy Rate - 66.1% 7

Largest cities of Rajasthan in terms of Population Religion Language Fig 1.3 Demographics Chart Source: Self Illustrated 8

Fig 1.4 Women visiting temple during festivity Source: Google 9

Cultu r e Rajasthan offers a vibrant and and ‘Chair’ are ubiquitous, along- diverse culture for visitors to ex- side folk music. The Jaipur Gharana plore. The native citizens are ami- of Kathak holds a firm foot on the cable, friendly, polite and hospita- rich culture that exists. The Rajputs ble. People dress up in traditional and Mughals in the reign used to attires, ghagra(skirt), dhotis, kurta, invite skilled artists of their kind churidar and turbans. They have a to Jaipur, to showcase themselves, typical ritual of welcoming people and as time passed, many of these that starts with a unique saying, artists who felt comfortable set- ‘Padharo Mhare Des’ (meaning tled there. Thus Jaipur is a hub of welcome to my city), followed by a rich art and craft. Today the artistic folk dance on the beats of Naga- approach has gained an enormous da and drums. Folk music played name and has got itself a unique on folk instruments such as Dhol, place in the global market, which Nagada, jhala, ektara is their per- helps to add up to the GDP. fect way to welcome the guests. The folk dance forms of ‘Ghumar’ 10

FOLK DANCE Festivals Ghoomar Drum 1 Kalbeliya Kacchighodi Bhavai Kathputli Chari The fire Gair dance Dandiya Walar dance Gawari Chang Chakri Terah taali FOLK MUSIC GANGUAR Pabuji ki phach Gangaur is one of Maand Panihari the most significant FOLK INSTRUMENT festivals of Rajasthan Stringed Instruments: Fig 1.5 Ganguar Source:Pinterest symbolic of marital Ektara, Morchang, Sarangi, bliss. The unmarried Rawanhattha, and Kamayacha. Percussion Instruments: women pray to goddess Gauri to find a perfect life partner Nagaras, Dhols, and Damrus Flutes and Bagpipes: Poongi, while the married one wishes for their spouse’s health, Algoza, Tarpi, Been, Bankia, and Shehnai. prosperity, and success Traditional Instruments: Baara, Jantar, Ghoralio, Thali, Garasiyas, Jaltall TRADITIONAL ATTIRE 2 Pagri TEEJ Angrakha Dhoti Teej festival is a pyjamas Ghagra choli celebration of Odhni nature, the arrival ACCESSORIES of the monsoon and prosperity. Mojari juti Bangadi It is dedicated Jhumka Ivory bangles Nathni Haathphool to celebrating Fig 1.6 Teej Source: Pinterest Boriya Kardhani tagdi the sacred Bajubandh Anklet Sheeshful Bichwa possession of the Kaanbali God Shiva and the Goddess Parvati. Women celebrate Aad the festivals by dancing to folk songs while men play folk instruments. All the shops in Jaipur are stocked up with various clothes with mainly Leheriya (Tie and Dye) 11

3 SITALA MATA SAPTAMI This is another significant festival celebrated in many Indian states, including Rajasthan, where devotees offer prayer to the Goddess Sheetla, asking her to bless their childen and family with happiness, prosperity and good health. There is a belief that worshipping goddesses keeps diseases like smallpox and chickenpox away. Fig 1.7 Sitla Mata Saptami Source: Pinterest 4 KITE FESTIVAL The international kite festival takes place every year in Jaipur on the occasion of Makar Sankranti (14 January). The pink city provides an enthralling spectacle with a sky full of colourful kites. The rock music and meticulous dancers add up to the charm of the festival. The festival is hosted at the polo ground in Jaipur. Fig 1.8 Kite Festival Source: Pinterest 5 ELEPHANT FESTIVAL Elephant festival is celebrated in the city of Jaipur on the day of Holi, Phalgun Purnima. The elephants are dressed in eye-catching clothes and ornaments. Detailed Indian decorative designs are then painted on their bodies. Rajasthan tourism hosts elephant polo and elephant dance shows in Chaugan stadium every year to witness the grandeur. Fig 1.9 Elephant Festival Source: Pinterest 12

Food & Cuisine KHER SANGRI Fig 1.10 Dal Bati Churma Source: Google It is a typical desert vegetable, specific DAL BATI CHURMA to Jaipur. It is served as a pickle with Bajre ki Roti, with a pool of spices. It is Dal Bati Churma is the signature dish a must-have element of a Rajasthani of Rajasthan, especially Jaipur. Dal, Platter. Not only does it complement Bhati and Churma are three different the flavours, but it also completes the components served as a single dish. meal. Dal is lentil soup, Bhati is fluffy baked bread, and Churma is sweet, flour DIL KHUSHAL and sugar. The mixture and balance Dil Khushal, popularly called Mohanthal, of sweetness and spiciness leave an besan ki barfi or besan Chikki, is a celebrated desert in Rajasthan. Gram impression on the flour is the key ingredient of the desert alongside dry fruit and some other flavours. It is both chewy and grainy in texture. MAWA KACHORI Mawa kachori is an incredible desert of Rajasthan. It stands for royalty and richness in Rajasthani cuisine. The fluffy pastry is filled with Mawa, dry fruits and lots of nuts. GHEWAR Ghewar is one of the most popular sweet dishes.It is specially made for the traditional festival Teej.Flour, Sugar, Ghee and Milk are the main ingredients of Ghewar. It is round-shaped sweet. The preparation of Ghewar is artistic. 13

Fig 1.11 Pyaaz Kachori Source: Google Fig 1.12 Laal Maas Source: Google PYAAZ KACHORI LAAL MAAS Pyaaz ki Kachori can be found A traditional Non-Vegetarian Rajasthani in every nook and corner of dish where the main hero is Mutton( with the city. It is a spicy, fried bones). The curry is recognized for its fluffy pastry filled with onions bright red colour and spicy flavours. There and potato mixture alongside are many restaurants or places in Jaipur different spices. It is a local where this dish can be found in its best snack of Jaipur. Some famous form, in NIROS, Altitude Restaurant, MM places selling Pyaz Kachori in Khan, Spice Court, Handi. Jaipur are Samrat Restaurant, Radhe Kachori, Rawat Mishthan Bhandar. 14

Crafts BLUE POTTERY Region - Jaipur Products- Origin – It is Turko-Persian Light Holders, Decorative in origin, brought to India by Plates, Necklace, Flower Mughals in the 14th century, Vase, Tiles, Tea Coasters then came to Jaipur in the ,Knobs, Ceramic Beads early 19th century under Mugs,Planters Sawai Ram Singh II. Community – By the 1950s, blue pottery vanished from Jaipur when Kripal Singh Shekhawat re-introduced it. Fig 1.13 Blue Pottery Source: Pinterest 2 Products- Serving dishes MEENAKRI Containers Vases The process of colouring Frames and painting the surfaces Display ornaments of metals like spoons and Jewellery ceramics through enamelling is called Meenakari. Community – Meenakars Origin – 16th century Region - Jaipur, Nathdwara, Bikaner, and Udaipur Fig 1.14 Meenakari Source: Pinterest MOJARI JUTTIE Mojari is a closed shoe with making them eco-friendly. extended bent foot parts and Community – Mochi an open look from behind, community while Juttis have flat fronts Origin – over 400 years and the back is usually Region – Jodhpur, covered. They are made of Jhunjhunu, Ajmer, Bikaner, leather, brass nails, cowry Jaisalmer and Jaipur shells, mirrors, bells and ceramic beads and hand- stitched with cotton thread, Fig 1.15 Mojari Juttie Source: Pinterest 15

Crafts 4 PUPPETS Kath means wood, and Putli Community – Bhat means a doll. Kathputli means community a puppet that is hand-carved Origin – Over 1500 years entirely from wood and ago dressed in Rajasthani attire. Region - Jaipur and They are used in a string Jodhpur puppet theatre controlled and tied with strings. Fig 1.16 Puppet Source: Pinterest STONE CARVING Rajasthan is one of the Region - Jaipur, Pali, Sirohi, primary centres of stone Nagpur and Udaipur carving because of the Products/ Examples- availability of different kinds Temple carving of rocks. Metamorphic hard Wall carving rocks like granites, marbles, Jali(latticework) carving quartzite, and slates are found Marble images of the in abundance here. deities Origin – 18th century Domestic Products such as Community - Murtikars bowls, idols, toys. Fig 1.17 Stone carving Source: Pinterest 6 MINIATURE PIANTING These are small-sized, Artisans – Artists from highly intricate, stylized various Rajasthani schools and elaborate paintings of painting like Kishangarh, that require great skill and Bundi, Jaipur, Mewar and experience. These are made Marwar. on vellum, prepared card, Origin – 16th century copper, or ivory with natural Region - Mewar (Udaipur), colours after mixing them Bundi, Kotah, Marwar with water and natural gum. (Jodhpur), Bikaner, Jaipur, Nathdwara and Kishangarh Fig 1.18 Miniature Painting Source: Pinterest 16

Textile Crafts LEHERIYA Fig 1.21 Bagru Leheriya is a colourful fabric with diagonal or chevron striped patterns all over it. It is a dyed-through resist- dyeing technique. Community – Marwari community Region - Udaipur, Jodhpur, Jaipur andNathdwara Raw Material - Wet threads Polyester, Nylon, Silk,Jute Aluminium wires , Organic colours Vegetable pastes Traditional Products- Head turban, Lehenga cholis,Salwar Sarees, worn primarily during the festivals of Gangaur and Teej. Contemporary products- Handbags, Scarves, Tops, Tunics ,Kurtis Shoes BANDHEJ Fig 1.19 Lehariya Fig 1.20 Bandhej Bandhej is a tie and dye technique BAGRU F adorned by plucking the cloth into many bindings that form a design/ Bagru is a wooden hand block printing pattern. The fabric is tied tightly using a technique that uses natural/organic thread, and it is then dipped in for a dye colours to print the fabric with beautiful bath. prints. Community – Khatri community Community – Chhipa community Origin - 5000 years old Origin- 45o years old Region – Jodhpur Region - Jaipur Raw materials - Raw Material - Malmal muslin, Bleached cotton, Thread Natural dyes, Natural fabrics Loosely woven silk georgette or satin Tools- Natural dye colours like red, yellow, Wooden blocks pink, green, orange, and black Products - Patterns - Saree, Suits, Sari,Dhoti Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari, Khombi, Chandrakhani, Mothra and a few more. Traditional Products -Suits, Sarees,Turbans, Dupattas 17

of Rajasthan Fig 1.23 Sanganeri SANGANERI Sanganeri is a hand block printing technique, done initially with natural/organic colours to print intricate patterns on white fabric. Nowadays, synthetic dyes and pigments are also being used to make vibrant fabrics. Community - Sanganeri Chippa community\\ Origin - 500-year-old Region - Sanganer Raw Material - Woollen Cloth , Vegetable/ Natural dyes Tools- Pins, Printing Table, Wooden Blocks, Wooden Tray with Bamboo lattice, Chalk, Scale, Brushes, Tray Trolley Motifs- Flowers like sunflowers, roses and narcissus, Gods, Fruits, Folk stories. Products- Sarees, Suits, Turban, Dhoti Fig 1.24 Gota Patti GOTA PATTI Fig 1.22 Kota Doria Source: Google & Pinterest Gota Patti also known as Lappe ka kaam is a hand-embroidery work done using KOTA DORIA the appliqué technique. Silver, golden and other coloured ribbons of varying width are Kota Doria is a lightweight handwoven fabric embroidered and woven in a satin or twill characterized by a square-like pattern called weave. khat. Region: Nayala, Jaipur, and Khandala Community – Ansari weavers Raw materials- Origin- Between 1684-1695 Tie-dyed georgettes, pastel chiffons, Tussar Region – Hadoti region (Bundi, Kota and Baran silks, crepes, and Khaadi-cottons. Silk Metal district of Rajasthan). threads Raw Material - Tools: Cotton & Mulberry raw silk yarns Needle , Thread, Scissors, Ari-Hook, Wooden Gold and Silver Zari (fine metal threads) yarns Frame Products: Motifs: Dupattas, Sarees, Suits, Turbans Flowers, Leaves, Birds, Animals such as peacocks, parrots and elephants Traditional products: Dupattas, Suits, Lehenga, Kurta, Skirts, Cholis, Ghagras, Odhnis, Saris, Turbans, Torans, Contemporary products: Cushion covers, Mobile covers 18

Udaipur Fig 1.25 City Palace Source: Pinterest The city is an epitome of the rajputana style, architecture in its palaces and fort. Udaipur is the lake city of the country and is also termed as the ‘Venice of the East’. Most of the palaces are now converted into hotels, attracting a lot of tourism. Places to visit-City Palace, Lake Pichola, Lake Palace, Lake Garden Palace, The Royal Vintage, Car Museum, Bagore Ki Haveli, Saheliyon Ki Bari, Jagdish Temple, Shilpgram, Moti Magri 19

Jodhpur Fig 1.26 Mehrangarh Fort Source: Pinterest Jodhpur is the second largest city of Rajasthan, founded in 1459. The city people enjoy sunny bright weather all year round and that’s how it bagged the name of the ‘Sun City’. Places to Visit- Mehrangarh Fort, Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jaswant Thada, Mandore Gardens, Kailana Lake, Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park, Clock Tower, Chamunda Mata Temple, Balsamand Lake 20

Chittorgarh Fig 1.27 Chittorgarh Fort Source: Pinterest The ancient city of Chittorgarh was founded by the Maurya Dynasty. It is the birthplace great warriors like the Great Maharana Pratap and the Hindu saint, Meera Bai. The city is known for its historical sites, fortspalaces, temples and exhibiting Rajput style architectural designs and artistic mastery. Places to visit-Chittorgarh Fort, Rana Kumbha Palace, Fateh Prakash Palace, Meera Temple, Rani Padmini Palace, Vijay Stambh, Kriti Stambh 21

Jaisalmer Fig 1.28 Patwon-Ki-Haveli Source: Pinterest Jaisalmer is renowned for its numerous eateries that offer different international and local cuisines and architecture. Golden sands of the Thar Desert and the same golden colored sandstone architectures, giving the city a golden shine during the day light thus, it is called the ‘Golden City’. Places to visit-Jaisalmer Fort, Bada Bagh, Patwon-Ki-Haveli, Sam Sand Dunes, Thar Heritage Museum, Gadisar Lake, Nathmal Ki Haveli, Jain temples, Salim Singh Ki Haveli 22

Bikaner Fig 1.29 Junagarh Fort Source: Pinterest The city was founded in 1488 by the Rathore Rajput Ruler Rao Bika, son of the Rathore Ruler Rao Jodha who founded Jodhpur. The place is famous for its art, craft, forts and food. The ancient city has seen many wars too but is a prime tourist destination. Places to visit-Junagarh Fort, Lalgarh Palace, National Research Centre on Camel, Shri Laxminath Temple, Ganga Singh Museum, Sadul Singh Museum, Jain Temple 23

Jaipur Fig 1.30 Amer Fort Source: Pinterest Jaipur is famous for its well planned streets, forts, monuments, temples, gardens, museums, vast market places and artistic architecture. Places to visit-City Palace, Amer Fort, Nahargarh Fort, Jaigarh Fort, Hawa Mahal, Jal Mahal,Jantar Mantar, Pink City Bazaars, Albert Hall, Museum, Galtaji, Birla Temple, Govind Dev ji Temple 24

Fig.2 Chand Baori 25

Jaipur 26

Fig 2.1 Hawa Mahal Jaipur Source: Self Clicked (Satyam) 27

Gulabi Nagri Located in the heart of Rajasthan shastra to lay India’s earliest is the city with an old-world planned city. charm and majestic historical Jaipur is renowned globally for its splendour- Jaipur. During colonial life-size monuments, magnificent rule, Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh II forts, colour streets, camel rides, got the entire city painted in pink mouth-watering food and rich terracotta as a symbol of hospitality culture and heritage lineage. The to welcome Prince Albert. Since major attraction points here are then there is a law which instructs Jantar-Mantar that boasts the people to paint their houses pink. world’s largest sundial, Hawa Mahal Thus Jaipur is called the Pink City - the wind palace, Jaigarh fort with of India. The city is surrounded the world’s most extensive canon, by vibrant bazaars, colourful Nahargarh Fort, and city palace Mela’s and chaotic streets. Vidya (also known as Mubarak Mahal). Bhattacharya, a Bengali architect, The best time to visit the city is used Shilpa Shastra and Vastu between March and October. 28

Fig 2.2 Jal Mahal Jaipur Source: Self Clicked (Satyam) Established - 18 November,1727 GEOGRAPHY Language- Hindi Jaipur is situated at an elevation Area - 467 km2 of 431 m above sea level. Hot semi-arid climatic conditions Area Rank - 1st in Rajasthan characterize the city. The summer Population - 3.073,350 season is short but extremely hot, while winters are mild to warm; Population Rank - 10th in India July and August are the peak Sex Ratio - 898(F)/1000(M) monsoon months characterized Literacy Rate - 84.34% by the humid climate. The to- pography is a little rugged, with 29 Aravalli hills running on one side. Minor rivers such as Dhundh, Moral, Sabi, Sakha, Dai and a few more flow through the city.

Fig2.3 Sawai Jai Singh Source: Google History The city was founded in 1727 The architect built nine blocks, by Sawai Jai Singh. The sudden out of which two belonged to the increase in population and scarcity government while seven were for of water were the prime reasons usage by the public. Massive walls that compelled him to change and gates were designed to guard the capital from Amber to Jaipur. the city. Seven fortif ied gates were He appointed Bengali architect constructed to prevent the external Vidhyadhar Bhattacharya to lay forces from invading the city. The the city’s design with the buildings, construction of the city began in roads and forts. 1726 and was finished in 1730. 30

Clusters of Rajasthan Fig 2.4 Craft Map of Jaipur Source: Self illustrated 31

Clusters of Jaipur BLUE POTTERY CARPET & DURRIES LEATHER WEAR SANGANERI PICHWAI PAINTINGS MOJARI-JUTTI MEENAKARI GOTTA PATTI DABU& BAGRU 32

Fig.3 A Craftsman gathering the Bagru Textile 33

Bagru 34

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