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15 9 190001 019857 GREGOR IS WEARING A FUNCTIONAL PARKA WITH DETACHABLE DETAILS, H&M MOVE HOODIE AND TROUSERS, CALVIN KLEIN, AVAILABLE AT STEFFL N°15 – Autumn 2022 – 7,90 € – W W W.LOFFI C IEL. AT SPORTS Gregor Schlierenzauer AthlTehiesure Issue

















On Gregor Schlierenzauer: On Gregor Schlierenzauer: 5HYHUVLEOHWUDFNVXLWZLWKUHĂHFWLYH Parka with detachable details, H&M MOVE mongram pattern made of recycled Hoodie and pants, CALVIN KLEIN, available at STEFFL polyester, H&M MOVE Chain, in white gold, BUCHERER Rings, made from 925 sterling silver and onyx, SABOTEUR Sneakers, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Editor‘s Letter FASHION & STYLE D re a m -Te a m ACCESSORIES & Images provided by: Covers © Sofya Svetlaya, Page 100 © Marina Prinzi, Page 122 © Julie Belanska, Page 148 © NEST x NOMAD, BOHO Hotel PAGE 12 Louis Vuitton x NBA A DOR N M EN TS Fashion News PAGE 38 Imprint PAGE 28 Anatomie d‘une chaussure: PAGE 14 Match Ball GUCCI riding boots Oh my Sport! Polo Ralph Lauren PAGE 61 Contributors The Origins of Athleisure x Wimbledon PAGE 16 PAGE 30 PAGE 39 Accessory News PAGE 62 Favorite Runway Looks adidas x GUCCI The Epitome of Fitness PAGE 18 Is Here HermèsFit Good Investment PAGE 34 PAGE 40 Sotheby‘s Sneaker Auctions Anatomie d‘un sac: PAGE 64 Sportif-classique Viva Italia! Purple Rain Prada bag Fendi & AS Roma Review of Haute Couture Sneaker Hype PAGE 22 PAGE 35 Fall-Winter Collections Interview with Fabian 2022/23 Schumacher Brand to Watch Golf in the City PAGE 42 PAGE 66 H&M Move MCM collection PAGE 24 PAGE 36 Falling in Fall Forward Movement Actual Autumn Looks “On the Move“ Collection Page 100 PAGE 46 PAGE 68 Tony Ward: WATCHES & Twenty-five Years in Fashion JEWELLERY PAGE 50 Anatomie Bijoux: Imane Ayissi: The Rule of 5 Africa‘s Fashion PAGE 71 Ambassador PAGE 52 Anatomie d‘une montre: Blingtastic Iran Khanoom: PAGE 72 Fashion Icon of Eternal Youth Slam Dunk! PAGE 54 Interview with Victor Solomon A Grandiose Affair PAGE 74 10 years of Alta Moda PAGE 56 Female Values Hublot x Women EURO PAGE 76

Page 148 Fine Piercing BUSINESS & Spain: Gran Hotel Inglés, OAE & Maldives: PAGE 78 REAL ESTATE Madrid Jumeirah‘ Hotels 5* PAGES 156 PAGE 164 ATHLEISURE ISSUE Innovation Meets Manufacture: Michael Germany: Cortiina Hotel, Austria: “Eat.Drink.Dance. Cover Editorial: Sports Icon and Christian Sieger Munich Repeat” a the Leo Grand Gregor Schlierenzauer PAGE 134 PAGE 158 Hotel, Vienna PAGE 80 PAGE 166 Establishing Financial Roots: Germany: 25hours Editorial: Run time David Mayer-Heinisch The Royal Bavarian Hotel, Subscribe PAGE 92 PAGE 136 Munich PAGE 167 PAGE 160 Editorial: Party Fever Place of Wonders: Gourmet Stops PAGE 100 Alexis Fernandez Gonzalez A Journey of Discovery: PAGE 168 PAGE 138 The Scenic Eclipse BEAUTY & PAGE 162 Dernier Cri WELLNESS Events in a Princely PAGE 170 Ambience Beauty News PAGE 142 PAGE 110 TRAVEL & Fragrant Fall GOURMET Our Favourite Fragrances PAGE 112 Germany: Hotel Bayerischer Hof, Munich Pure Thoughts PAGE 146 New Standarts of Hair care PAGE 120 Austria: BOHO Hotel PAGE 148 Editorial: Autumn Leaves PAGE 122 Austria: Naturhotel Forsthofgut Lounge for Your Hair PAGE 150 PAGE 129 Austria: “Seven North” Beauty Stops Restaurant in Vienna PAGE 130 PAGE 152 Monaco: Hôtel Hermitage PAGE 154 Page 122

EDITORIAL Image provided by: © Luiza Lamtiuga By ANNA ZNAMENSKY Summer draws to a close and we enter what I personally believe to be the most beauti- ful of seasons: autumn. Autumn leaves do not only bring cooler weather, but also more diversity into our closets – a welcome change. This season, we bring to you “The Athleisure Issue”. The athleisure market is booming and athletes and luxury brands have long formed a successful symbiosis. In this issue, we take a  look at some of the most current collabo- rations between luxury fashion and jewellery brands and the world of sport. We also take you on a historical journey into the origins of athleisure wear for context, as well as present you with a beautiful still life we prepared, that brings two parallel, yet complimenting luxury items together: limited edition sneakers and high-end watches. An Austrian sports icon, Gregor Schlierenzauer, the most successful ski-jumper of all time, graces our cover and stars in our cover editorial wearing athlei- sure, of course, while the venerable Liechten- stein Garden Palace served as the majestic backdrop for this shoot – we love mixing the venerable with the modern! As we also love pairing the modern aspects of fashion, such as athleisure, with the more tradi- tional ones, we also bring you a detailed report from the front rows of the Haute Couture Week in Paris. Awaiting you in this issue, are many more pages packed with current beauty and fashion trends and news. We wish you a pleasurable reading experience! 12



CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER GLOBAL DEPUTY CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Xavier Zee Maria Cecilia Andretta CHAIRMAN CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER Dr. Calvin Choi CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER Giampietro Baudo Flavia Benda CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER GLOBAL EDITORIAL TEAM Benjamin Eymère EDITORIAL COMMITTEE CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER Giampietro Baudo Anthony Cenname Caroline Grosso Jennifer Eymère INTERNATIONAL AND MARKETING GLOBAL SALES L’OFFICIEL CASTING DIRECTOR DIRECTOR INTERNATIONAL LICENSES, MANAGING DIRECTOR SALES FRANCE IS AN AMTD GROUP COMPANY Jennifer Eymère CASTING,PRODUCTION & BOOKING BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Robert D. Eisenhart III FOUNDERS Joshua Glasgow & BRAND MARKETING MANAGING DIRECTOR SALES ITALY GEORGES, LAURENT GRAPHIC TEAM Flavia Benda ET ULLY JALOU (†) Giulia Gilebbi – Art direction Carlotta Tomasoni EDITORIAL MANAGING TEAM HEAD OF DIGITAL PRODUCT PUBLISHED BY L’OFFICIEL INC Laure Ambroise, Sabrina Abbas Giuseppe de Martino Norante FINANCE AND ADMINISTRATION Sara Ali, Jeanne Propeck DIGITAL PROJECT MANAGER FINANCE DIRECTOR FRANCE HEAD OFFICE : EDITORIAL CONTENT AND ARCHIVES Thierry Leroy 27-29 RUE BASSANO, 75008 Giulia Bettinelli Babila Cremascoli HR MANAGER Émilia Étienne PARIS N°15 – AUTUMN 2022 EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT ACCOUNTING MANAGER Giulia Bettinelli Éric Bessenian WWW.LOFFICIEL.COM EDITOR IN CHIEF Anna Znamensky CONTACT: [email protected] [email protected] CREATIVE DIRECTOR AUSTRIA Katerina Leroy PUBLISHERS [email protected] Maksym Lavrynovych Anna Vergelskaya SALES MANAGER [email protected] [email protected] Theresa Höbart [email protected] MANAGING DIRECTOR Elena Jäckl TRANSLATION & PROOFREADING [email protected] Nina Znamensky, Mag. Ilse Ratzinger MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR MEDIA OWNER Viktoriia Gordiienko Oksana Maizhara REGALIA COMPANY GMBH CONTRIBUTOR [email protected] [email protected] TUCHLAUBEN 7A, A-1010 WIEN, FN 505640P Viktor Gee +43 676 6827767 DIGITAL DIRECTOR OPERATIONS MANAGER [email protected], WWW.LOFFICIEL.AT Maria Ratzinger Varvara Karimova INSTAGRAM @LOFFICIELAUSTRIA [email protected] [email protected] L’OFFICIEL AUSTRIA IS A FASHION MAGAZINE. IT IS PUBLISHED FOUR TIMES A YEAR. DESPITE CAREFUL SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER TECHNICAL ADMINISTRATOR EDITING ALL INFORMATION IN THIS MAGAZINE IS GIVEN Marina Puchkov Serhi G. WITHOUT GUARANTEE. ANY LIABILITY BY THE AUTHORS AND THE EDITOR IS EXCLUDED. FURTHERMORE, THEY SHALL [email protected] [email protected] NOT BE LIABLE FOR SUBMITTED TEXTS AND PICTURES. ANY REPRODUCTION OF TEXTS IS PROHIBITED, AND DIGITAL EDITORS EDITORS IN TRAINING THE AUTHOR RESERVES ALL RIGHTS ACCORDING TO § 11 Tanja Brock, Sara Douedari, Anastasia Gorbunova, Lesia Kvitka, OF THE LAW ON COPYRIGHT AND RELATIVE RIGHTS OF Stefanie Lang, Lea Müller, Isabel Vojvoda 1976. WE TREAT ALL DATA STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL AND Lisa Getman, Hilal Külec MANAGE THEM IN AGREEMENT WITH THE EU GENERAL DATA STYLISTS PROTECTION REGULATION. YOUR DATA WILL BE PROCESSED PHOTOGRAPHERS Anita Baboian, Daria Bereziuk, AND USED TO ANSWER YOUR REQUESTS, TO PROCESS Julie Belanska, YOUR ORDERS, FOR THE PURPOSE OF ORDER TAKING AND Marco Ferra, Vasile Longhi, PROCESSING AND/OR FOR TECHNICAL ADMINISTRATION. Marina Prinzi, Sofya Svetlaya Savriniso Mansuro, Sammy Zayed YOUR DATA WILL BE FORWARDED TO SERVICE PROVIDERS ASSIGNED BY US IN THE REQUIRED EXTENT. PRINT: POLIGRAFIJAS GRUPA MUKUSALA MUKUSALAS IELA 15A RIGA, LV-1004, LETTLAND INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS L’Officiel Paris, L’Officiel Hommes Paris, L’Officiel ART Paris, Jalouse, La Revue des Montres, The International Watch Review, L’Officiel Arabia, L’Officiel Hommes Arabia, L’Officiel Argentina, L’Officiel Austria, L’Officiel Baltics, L’Officiel Belgique, L’Officiel Hommes Belgique, L’Officiel ART Belgique, L’Officiel Brasil, L’Officiel Hommes Brasil, L’Officiel Chile, L’Officiel China, L’Officiel Hommes China, L’Officiel French Riviera, L’Officiel Ibiza, L’Officiel Italia, L’Officiel Hommes Italia, L’Officiel ART Italia, L’Officiel Korea, L’Officiel Hommes Korea, La Revue des Montres Korea, L’Officiel Latvia, L’Officiel Liechtenstein, L’Officiel Lithuania, L’Officiel Malaysia, L’Officiel Mexico, L’Officiel Maroc, L’Officiel Hommes Maroc, L’Officiel Monaco, L’Officiel NL, L’Officiel Philippines, L’Officiel Singapore, L’Officiel Hommes Singapore, L’Officiel Spain, L’Officiel St Barth, L’Officiel Switzerland, L’Officiel Thailand, L’Officiel Hommes Thailand, L’Officiel Turkey, L’Officiel Hommes Turkey, L’Officiel Ukraine, L’Officiel Hommes Ukraine, L’Officiel USA, L’Officiel Hommes USA, L’Officiel ART USA, L’Officiel Vietnam.



CONTRIBUTORS Images provided by: Portrait of Isabel Vojvoda © Isabel Vojvoda, Photo of Daria Bereziuk © Daria Bereziuk, Portrait of Stefanie Lang © Stefanie Lang ISABEL VOJVODA Isabel is 17 years old, lives in Vienna and is a student at the Sacre Coeur Gymnasium, where she will gra- duate next year. She grew up in a multicultural envi- ronment and was therefore a perfect fit for our team. “The world of fashion fascinates me. In order to get a taste of this world, I applied for an internship at L’Officiel,” says Isabel, who has actively supported our distribution department as well as our editorial team. After graduating from high school, Isabel will start studying fashion – with success, we are sure of it! DARIA BEREZIUK Stylist and fashion consultant Daria started her journey in Vienna as an intern for L’Officiel Digital three years ago. Now, a freelance stylist and an art student at the University of Applied Arts, she continues her creative path with more ideas. Combining fashion and the art world, she puts passion and commitment into her work to make it a memorable experience. STEFANIE LANG Stefanie Lang was born and raised in Salzburg. The 20-year- old is currently studying at the Vienna University of Eco- nomics and Business Administration and has a passion for acting, writing, music, languages and fashion, of course. She first joined the L’Officiel Austria team in 2020 as a social media intern and we are delighted to have her back, this time in the print editorial team. You will find a number of her articles in this issue – all for your reading pleasure. 16



ENTRÉE 12 Double TROUBLE Autumn leaves bring not only relief from the hot temperatures of the summer, but also diversity back into our wardrobes. In this issue, L’Officiel Austria presents not one, but two of its favourite looks off of this season’s most notable ready-to-wear runways. By ANNA ZNAMENSKY 18

ENTRÉE 1. & 2. A monochromatic rampant hot pink used to “maximize the possibilities of expression in DQbDSSDUHQWODFNRISRVVLELOLWLHVàDWVALENTINO. 3. & 6. “In the intimate setting of a small theatre W K D WK D VW K HS H U V R Q DOI H H OR IDM H Z H OO H U \\E R[ à K HbR Q F HD J DLQU H W X U Q VW RW K HV L J Q VW K D WL G H Q W L I \\ his style at GIORGIO ARMANI. 4. & 5. ß$FRPPHPRUDWLRQRIOLIHDQGOLYLQJbRIWKH occasion of the everyday, affording importance to HDFKPRPHQWàDW5DI6LPRQVDQG0LXFFLDPRADA. 3 4 5 Pierpaolo Piccioli turned heads for Valentino 6 this season with his Pink PP Fall/Winter Images provided by: 1., 2. © Valentino, 3., 6. © Giorgio Armani, 4., 5. © Prada 2022-23 show and we were blown away by each and every look. Structured silhouettes and monochromatic colour as far as the eye can see, paired perfectly with towering, pla- teau heels strutting down the equally mono- chromatic hot-pink runway. A true testimony to the fact that when it comes to fashion, less is sometimes more. From shocking hot pink, to the king of classi- cism himself, Giorgio Armani; another desi- gner proving that less is indeed more. This is especially true when it comes to impeccable tailoring and “precision of exact construc- tions and the sense of an elegance created by renouncing the superfluous rather than excess”, as stated by the designer himself. His high waist plissé trousers and silk jac- quard jackets in soft tones make it evident that Mr. Armani has returned to what he does best: dressing the understated, chic and ele- gant woman. Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada are tailoring coats at the neck or back, transforming 19

8 7 7. & 8. Han Chong, founder and creative director, celebrates relaxed tailoring and effortless gowns when it comes to eveningwear – a category that has always been dear to his heart, at SELF-PORTRAIT. 9. & 10. Tweed is a timeless symbol for the brand since it allows for countless colour and material com- ELQDWLRQVß,HQMR\\ZRUNLQJZLWKLWVRPXFK,bFRXOGQÝW live without it at CHANEL”, VWDWHV9LUJLQLHb9LDUG 9 traditionally male elements and interrupting Images provided by: 7., 8. © Self-Portrait, 9., 10. © Chanel them with the feminine, as is the case with the 10 pink goatskin bag and chevron coat with faux fur on the arms, pictured here. Tweed is an all-time favourite when it comes to the colder season, and this mirrored in the collections of both the high end and high- street ready to wear Fall-Winter looks. Chanel pairs its eponymous tweed looks with contrasting thigh-high boots in black or beige rubber this fall. “Devoting the entire collection to tweed is a tribute,” says Virginie Viard. “We followed the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel along the River Tweed, to imagine tweeds in the colours of this landscape”, she underlines. Valentino’s love for pink is mirrored at Self- Portrait, albeit in soft baby pink hues and pastel and jewel tones. Here too, a mono- chromatic collection stands at the forefront. A polished approach to clothing is provided by modernized separates, tailored dresses, and elegant evening wear – always with a playful twist! 20

LARIMAR T HE ATL AN T IS STON E WWW.JI RGE N S.CO M Am Kosttor 1 / Maximilianstrasse · 80331 M21unich · +49 89 29 162 152 · [email protected]

ENTRÉE Image provided by: © PRADA Sportif-classique... Exclusive-luxurious or classic-sporty? This Prada eye-catcher proves that you can have it both ways! In keeping with our athleisure focus, we present our favourite sports bag. By STEFANIE LANG The combination of traditional materials and technologically LQQRYDWLYHUHF\\FOHGāEUHVLVDKDOOPDUNRI3UDGDÝVQHZFROOHFWLRQ and is perfectly captured in this classic black unisex model. The composition of re-nylon and Saffiano leather is topped off with the Triangolo logo made of enamelled metal clearly displayed on the front and features not only two outer and two inner pockets but also a detachable, adjustable shoulder strap made of woven nylon webbing. Whether as a weekender or a loyal companion to the gym – this is definitely a hybrid model that ideally combines not only old and new, but also luxury and simplicity. 1\\ORQDQG6DIāDQR/HDWKHU'XIIHO%DJPRADA 22

1

BRAND TO WATCH A New MOVEMENT The athleisure hype continues: videos, and JaQuel Knight, choreogra- Windproof parkas, fast- clothing giant Hennes & pher and the man behind some of the most drying running pants and Mauritz has just launched famous dance moves of our time, to help double-layered sports spread the word. Notably, JaQuel is the shorts are only some of what they refer to as a “new choreographer behind some of Beyonce’s the line’s key pieces. movement brand”. L’Officiel most epic music video dances, including Austria on the new kid on the those seen in “Single Ladies”, “Formation” and during her headlining act at Coachella. block in athleisure. Keeping in mind their wish to create a line of athleisure that allows its wearers to By ANNA ZNAMENSKY “dance, bend, jump, spring and breathe”, H&M introduced a number of essentials for While H&M has always offered a large both men and women, ranging from func- assortment of sportswear in its many stores, tional tops, light jackets, tights, bralettes the brand has pivoted to ride the wave that and pieces that were especially designed for is the current athleisure hype, with a focus training and running purposes. on dance. Playful design elements such as reflective On the premise of getting “the whole world, logo play for visibility, laser cut-outs for and every body moving”, H&M has now breathability and reversible pieces for versa- enlisted the help of none other than Jane tility, have also been thought of, of course. Fonda, an icon renowned for her fitness Moreover, all the pieces are perfect for being combined with other, non-athleisure 24

BRAND TO WATCH H&M Move offers pieces designed for a morning stroll, a late-night work-out or even a marathon run in the rain. Images provided by: © H&M types of clothing for a stylish, leisurely look. ALREADY since In order to bring substance to its new line the end of 2020, ALL and to allow it to stand out from others OF the cotton USED already on the market, the brand show- cases four unique materials with cutting- BY THE H&M edge designs and intricate technologies. GROUP WILL Each material carries a name that makes EITHER BE recycled, it more recognisable to the customers and organic, or sourced underlines how it is meant to perform. For THROUGH THE dryness and comfort while moving, the BETTER COTTON first material, DryMove™, works to drain INITIATIVE. moisture away from the skin. ShapeMove™ has the advantage of “no-show” when lif- ting and stretching. SoftMove™ provides additional assistance while moving and is extremely soft. Last, but not least, Storm- Move™ is breathable and offers wind and rain protection in all weather conditions. The development of such new technologies when it comes to material, allows H&M to join a number of other athleisure-wear brands, usually in the upper luxury segment, who have also developed cutting edge mate- rials for inclusion into their clothing lines. Sustainability stands at the forefront too: the H&M group has pledged that by 2030, all its materials must either be recycled or sourced more sustainably while nearly 85% of the materials used in H&M Move’s col- lections are now recycled or sourced more sustainably. 25

FASHION & Style “Fashion changes, but style endures.” COCO CHANEL

Picture by Lorenzo Barelli 127

NEWS By VIKA GORDIIENKO 1. IN ALL SPLENDOR: Chinese super- model Liu Wen joins BVLGARI as Global Leather Goods & Acces- sories Ambassador, starring in the Fall-Winter 2022 campaign “Made in Eden”. She interprets the clas- sic Serpenti Cabochon bag with a  confident yet feminine attitude that illustrates the timeless charm of the spiritual serpent, BVLGARI. 2 3 2. NEW SEASONAL CODES: The Valentino Pink PP Collection 3. ECO-FASHION STYLE: Aiming to accessories’ palette has been nar- push the concept of sustainability rowed down to two colours: Pink even further, a new version of the PP and black fully participate in iconic LV Trainer combines creati- the concept of monochrome, where vity, sustainability and eco-design 1 the bag blends and camouflages with a highly graphic silhouette itself in the total look, VALENTINO. made from 90% recycled and orga- nic materials. Available in three 28 colours, the shoes feature Maison’s signature Sustainable Develop- ment logo, LOUIS VUITTON.

FASHION 4. INSTANTLY RECOGNISABLE: Leather is 4 the focus of the Fall 2022 sunglasses collection. Like the gathered elastic belts of the Ready-to-Wear collections, it swathes the temples of the acetate sunglasses in a square shape. The skin for this had to be thinned, folded, and then stitched by hand. The double letter C applied along the entire height of the temples defines this frame, CHANEL. Images provided by: 1. © Bvlgari, 2. © Valentino, 3. © Louis Vuitton, 4. © Chanel, 5. © Sportmax, 6. © Con Evo Studio/Augarten x Giambattista Valli 5. BACK TO THE FUTURE: The “Resort 2023” collection reveals the secret of the next season. Here we will see the severity of nineteenth century England with its monochrome colours, high collars, small frills, puffed sleeves, and fancy skirts, as well as the psychedelia of the 60s and 70s with a kaleidoscope of ener- getic colours and curved lines. This aesthetic cacophony is per- fectly exemplified by PJ Harvey, an English singer-songwriter known for her desire for free- 5 dom and dissent, SPORTMAX. 6 6. SUBJECT OF CONVERSATION: Giam- battista Valli’s new creative passion is tableware. Two of his collections were presented in May: “En Plein Air”, which captures the romance of a French garden, and “Cairo Jaipur”, soft green products in the shape of a melon, complemented by champagne bowls of various shades from yellow to brown. All porcelain items for the collections are supplied by the legen- dary Vienna manufactory Augarten, AUGARTEN X GIAMBATTISTA VALLI. 29

Oh my SPORT! The “athleisure” wear market is booming and every major fashion brand is jumping onto the athleisure train. L’Officiel Austria takes a deep dive into the origins of athleisure: past, present and future. By ANNA ZNAMENSKY & STEFANIE LANG 1 30

FASHION 2 3 7KHZRUGßDWKOHLVXUHà was added to the Merriam-Webster dictionary in 2016 and GHāQHGDVßFDVXDO clothing suitable for both training and JHQHUDOXVHà Images provided by: 1., 2., 3., 6. © adidas x GUCCI (Creative Director: Alessandro Michele, Art Director: Christopher Simmonds, Originally, athlei- 4 6 Photographer: Carlijn Jacobs), 4., 5. © Shutterstock VXUHZDVGHāQHGDV As early as 1979, the term athleisure first a type of garment appeared in an issue of “Nation’s Business” that is similar to and was used to describe clothing and sportswear but is footwear for those, that wanted to appear athletic. The word itself is made up of a not workout wear in combination of the English words “athletic” the strict sense. and “leisure”. Since then athleisure has taken the world of fashion and popular culture by storm – cementing its place in our everyday lives. More recently, high fashion brands 5 have begun collaborating with traditional, sportswear brands by creating capsule col- lections and limited-edition pieces, causing huge hype in the fashion industry. L’Officiel Austria takes a historical journey into the origins of athleisure: from past to present and future. 31

FASHION ACCORDING TO Hypebeast’s AND STRATEGY& STREETWEAR IMPACT REPORT 2021, 72% of young RESPONDENTS REPORTED sneakers as best-selling PRODUCTS. 78 Images provided by: 7. © adidas x GUCCI, 8. © Polo Ralph Lauren x Wimbeldon, 9. © Louis Vuitton x NBA PAST Polo shirts followed in the 9 Originally, athleisure was defined as being a 1920’s, during a time when garment type that was made to resemble exer- intramural sports became very Louis Vuitton began partne- cise wear, but did not serve as workout gear per popular at American univer- ring with the NBA in 2020. se. Accordingly, in 1997, the fashion industry sities, prompting students to trade journal “Women’s Wear Daily” labeled wear their athletic clothing This year, the brands released athleisure footwear as “non-performance before and after class. a collaborative collection of styles” that integrated materials such as “canvas accessories, with red, white or suede”. The word “athleisure“ was included and breathability of clothing. This, in turn, led in the Merriam-Webster dictionary in 2016 to more demand and supply in the athleisure and blue as the main accents. and was defined as “casual clothing designed market. to be worn for exercising and for general use” meaning, that athleisure wasn’t meant merely Interestingly, it was female American design- to emulate exercise clothing, but was serving ers, such as Claire McCardell and Bonnie a dual purpose. Cashin, who recognized the ease and simplic- ity of sportswear and began to deviate from Athleisure’s origins can be traced back to long the Parisian designers’ notions of couture by before it had been defined as a term, as early promoting a more casual approach to dressing. as during the late 19th century. In 1892, the It was McCardell’s 1940s collection that first first rubber-soled shoes were produced for mirrored the beginning stages of today’s ath- athletes on the tennis court for better trac- leisure aesthetic. tion, thus being dubbed “tennis shoes”. Polo shirts followed in the 1920s, during a time Tennis and basketball players were the pio- when intramural sports became very popular neers that brought athleisure to the general at American universities, prompting students public as they began wearing their sportswear to wear their athletic clothing before and after off the court in the 1970s. In turn, the general class. At first, they were worn by tennis players public chose to emulate their idols, and the and later co-opted by polo players, from whom “Air Jordan III” from Nike became the first they got their namesake. Hightened interest model that bore what became to be known in physical fitness during the 20th century as the “Jumpman-Logo”, Jordan’s, mid-dunk, saw increased investment into improving the moisture and anti-odor wicking technology 32

FASHION garments by using advanced textile technolo- gies that allow for more comfort, breathability and better water resistance. A good example of this is the athleisure pieces from Prada’s recent “Re-Nylon” collection – a material created from textile waste, fishing nets, and recycled and cleansed plastic debris that has been recov- ered from the ocean. Alpha Tauri, the Austrian athleisure brand, introduced TAUROBRAN® into its repertoire – a unique, breathable mem- brane that uses electrospinning technology to make your “fashion item waterproof, yet excep- tionally soft, comfortable and breathable”. Images provided by: 10. © Shutterstock, 11. © MCM, “Golf in the City” collection The bags in The North Face x Gucci 2020 collection, Large sportswear brands have made a run to for example, were made from Econyl, a nylon material Gucci collaborate with popstars, high fashion brands, H[ W U D F W H GI U R PR O Gā V KLQ JQ H W VD Q GF D U S H W V7 K HR X W H U ZH D U and collaborations with sports tournaments was made from archived fabrics from The North Face. and athletes to meet the demand of what seems to be an insatiable athleisure market. The pan- FOR 2025, demic too, leads to rising demand for at-home THE MCKINSEY 10 workouts as well as to more people being able to work from home and thereby to an even higher STUDY OF demand for athleisure wear. SPORTING MCM brings Exploring new market segments and target GOODS golf to the city groups by modifying their products or re-in- FORECASTS streets, creating venting them in new designs, is the latest craze new street styles in the industry. Countless collaborations have a worldwide for the season. been brought to life. Most notable was Rolex’s ATHLEISURE constant strive for innovation that in 1978, SALES VOLUME 11 In addition to caused the luxury watch brand to join forces OF USD 395 billion. with “The Championships at Wimbledon”. clothing and During this time, tennis had achieved immea- 12 accessories, surable popularity and Rolex was the first, and the collection the best at recognizing the value of athletes as includes signa- brand ambassadors and sponsorships in tour- ture golf balls. naments to reach potential buyers. When it comes to fashion, the first collaboration in the silhouette. Moreover, the “Air Jordan” is argu- luxury market was between Jil Sander & adidas ably one of the best-selling sneakers of all time in 1998, with countless others following suit and an iconic piece of athleisure history. Hol- such as The North Face x Gucci, Fendi x Fila, lywood actors soon followed in their athletic Matthew Williamson x Nike, adidas x Beyonce counterpart’s footsteps by wearing their favorite Ivy Park Collection, just to name a few. athleisure fashion items on their movie sets and thereby cementing athleisure’s place in popular FUTURE culture. Most notably, and with a knowing look Where will the evolvement of athleisure lead towards the future, was Michael J Fox’s charac- us next? It goes to show the athleisure segment ter’s, Marty’s, love for white Nike Mag Sneakers is marked by continuous innovation and brand with a red swoosh in the 1985 blockbuster “Back differentiation. Meaning, that we can expect to the Future”. The self-tying laces featured in not only new and exciting collaborations but the sequel, “Back to the Future 2” were even first and foremost, due to the constant evolu- made a reality by Nike in 2016. Each pair fea- tion of technology, more innovative and more tures “power laces”, also known as sophisticated sustainable materials from which our athleisure Adaptive Fit technology, which can detect is made. Fashion experts also say that athleisure the wearer’s motion and loosen or tighten in is expected to become “dressier” but will always response. Only 89 units were produced, and adhere and stay true to the comfort and func- Michael J. Fox was the first to get a pair (free tion principle. We also expect to see more ath- of charge). The Michael J. Fox Foundation leisure brands moving into the luxury segment, for Parkinson’s Research received a staggering as the demand for high-quality athleisure is on USD 6.75 million from the ensuing auction. the rise. Without a doubt, we can look forward to even more momentum in the future, as, PRESENT when it comes to athleisure, the sky’s the limit! Athleisure’s goal, nevertheless, is not only to penetrate popular culture, but to offer bet- ter, more innovative and more sustainable 33

FASHION adidas X GUCCI For the launch, Image provided by: © Carlijn Jacobs (Photographer), Alessandro Michele (Creative Director), Creative Director Christopher Simmonds (Art Director)/adidas x GUCCI IS HERE Alessandro Michele KDVbHQYLVLRQHG This harmonious collaboration DbFDPSDLJQWKDWWDNHV inspired L’Officiel Austria inspiration directly from an archival 1979 to create the “Athleisure issue”. adidas catalogue. By VIKA GORDIIENKO Bright street style, hints of the 70s and at the same time readable DNA codes of two fashion giants – the joint collections of Gucci and adidas have become iconic for fashionistas around the world. Their range is represented by women’s and men’s ready-to-wear clothes, as well as bags, shoes, accessories, jewelry and lifestyle items.Throu- ghout the collection, the GG monogram and interlaced G are paired with the adidas Trefoil in colorful prints. Ready-to-wear echoes the sports- wear of yesteryear, but at the same time meets the demands of our times.Reflecting a  shared commitment to innovation, progress, sustainabi- lity and collective action, the collection includes a variety of pieces crafted from forward-looking materials including polyester, cotton and viscose. Plus, every piece comes with adidas x Gucci branded packaging that has been strategically designed to reduce our environmental footprint. The collection is distributed through specialty stores and online. A special selection of products is also available in the adidas Confirmed app. 34

FASHION VIVA ITALIA! Now FENDI is responsible for the style and official wardrobe of AS Roma players in the upcoming 2022-23 and 2023-24 Italian League Football Seasons. By VIKA GORDIIENKO Sketches provided by: © FENDI This partnership has a common back- the FENDI codes of tradition and innova- ground. Both companies were founded in tion with an attentive eye for craftsmanship. Rome, FENDI in 1925, and AS Roma in The collection is presented in dark blue 1927, and are an integral part of its his- and accented with the iconic yellow and tory and tradition. “The idea within this red colours of AS Roma, offering an ele- collaboration is to reinterpret FENDI’s gant aesthetic with high-quality materials and AS Roma’s codes and values, creating made in Italy. “This partnership is another a meeting point between the sports and step for the club on its path to international fashion world through a common denomi- excellence while maintaining a unique sense nator, Roman roots, and a strong link to the of Roman heritage,” commented Pietro eternal city”, says Silvia Venturini Fendi, Berardi, CEO of AS Roma, on this creative FENDI Artistic Director of Accessories alliance. The new looks of the “Giallorossi” and Menswear. players can be seen from the end of August The famous designer has realised this con- when the 2022-23 Italian League Football cept in official and casual looks which meet Season starts. 35

FASHION The new MCM capsule FROOHFWLRQFXWVDāQH āJXUHQRWRQO\\RQWKH green! All items “Golf LQWKH&LW\\àDUHQRZ available in-store and online. GOLF IN THE CITY This is the name of the new MCM capsule collection for street style. By VIKA GORDIIENKO The famous Germany-born brand has trans- and socks produced from organic cotton. Images provided by: © MCM ferred the dress code of golf clubs to the All models are available for both men and city streets and thus gave impetus for a new women. fashion trend. Now, elements of classic golf clothing can be seen in the street images of Weekender bags and typical golf accessories fashionistas who value design, high quality, are available in the new MCM Vintage Jac- comfort, and freedom of movement. quard colors. Signature golf balls and mat- ching ball bags complete the collection and MCM designers thought of every detail to leave envious looks on the actual playing create both sporty and urban styles: organic field. cotton polo shirts, windbreakers in vintage monogram, bucket hats and sun visors (craf- “Golf in the City” capsule collection is ted from ECONYL® regenerated nylon), the result of MCM’s collaboration with LA- white shorts and skirts (from nylon too), based fashion creator Everett Williams. 36

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FASHION Dream All the designs, crafted from Images provided by: © Louis Vuitton X NBA Monogram-embossed elec- TEAM tric blue Taurillon leather. Louis Vuitton’s partnership with the National Basketball Association (NBA) began in 2020. By VIKA GORDIIENKO The current collection is the third in a row and is dedicated to luggage. The designers were inspired to create it by travel. All the pieces celebrate the values of basketball: an appetite for challenge, team spirit, messages of camaraderie and universality. The Christopher backpack, iconic Keepall 55, Dopp Kit and Pocket Organizer all feature this season, joined by two excep- tional pieces: a case that can store eight watches and the signature Malle Cour- rier, both dressed in NBA colours for the very first time. All the designs, crafted from Monogram-embossed electric blue Taurillon leather, display a new oversized LV signature in the shape of a basketball that boasts the NBA logo colours. 38

FASHION MATCH BALL “...Polo Ralph Lauren This year marks Polo Ralph Lauren’s LVbSULRULWL]LQJHQYLURQ- 17th anniversary as the Official Outfitter of mental sustainability The Championships, Wimbledon in partnership with The All England Lawn Tennis Club. in the production of the on-court uniforms IRU:LPEOHGRQà said Gus Henderson, Commercial Director at Wimbledon. By VIKA GORDIIENKO Images provided by: © James Harvey Kelly/Polo Ralph Lauren In June, Polo Ralph Lauren unveiled the features such as stretch, moisture-wic- new 2022 uniforms for all Wimbledon king properties and UV protection, officials on the court, including chair all constructed for performance. Line umpires, line umpires, ball boys and girls. umpire uniforms are refreshed with navy The belted back umpire sportscoat is cardigans featuring a white and Wim- lined with a commemorative Ralph bledon green striped cuff detail which Lauren designed signature Wimbledon includes recycled Coolmax® fibers, print and adorned with both Polo Ralph providing superior comfort in warm Lauren and Wimbledon emblems. This environments with extreme moisture is paired with a wide Bengal stripe shirt management properties. that includes recycled material and stylish The uniforms embrace more sustainable, white trousers or a white skirt with pearl innovative fabrics for optimal perfor- button closure. mance and style – featuring products Ball boys and girls wear the iconic Ralph made with recycled materials and other Lauren Polo Shirt reimagined in a navy fabrics that are produced according to blue and white wide stripe that includes standards that consider communities and recycled material which incorporates the environment. 39

FASHION The Epitome OF FITNESS “Experience Hermès accessories with a fitness twist,” noted the HermèsFit invitation. L’Officiel Austria explores a new sports space. By VIKA GORDIIENKO HermèsFit is a project that travels around the world’s major cities. After Paris, Bangkok, Tokyo and New York, the last stop was in Los Angeles, at The Hollywood Athletic Club, in July. Where will the next one be? Follow the news on w w w.h e r m e s.c o m DQGZ Z ZO RI ā FL H OD W  Known for its commitment to tradition, clas- rooms, you pick up a carré and head into Carré Images provided by: © Petra Ford/Hermès sics and elegance, the family-owned company Yoga, where you will find your balance in a series Hermès has become an innovator in promoting of scarf-inspired poses. In Belt Stretching, you an active lifestyle. Its new project is HermèsFit, can pick the perfect belt to help you breathe, specially equipped, interactive gyms where you stretch, and relax. Then you can grab your bangles can try out Hermès accessories while exercising. to kick and punch in style in Kickboxing with Brightly decorated in the house’s signature orange Bracelets, etc. In the evening, the central boxing with graphic motifs on the walls, the play space ring – complete with punching bags decadently includes a scheduled practice room, a weights decorated with silk carré prints – is transfor- wall complete with custom Hermès barbells and med into a live stage for performances, DJ sets kettlebells, and a carré-style calisthenics course, and live concerts on the weekend. The vibrant, a boxing ring and a gym, climbing wall, each ser- round Ping-Pong table with a silk carré motif on ving as a photo booth, juice bar and more. the Ping-Pong rackets challenges you and your You can book a workout online or come at any friends to a fun match. Visitors are also invited to convenient time to explore the new sports space. strike a pose in the photo booth for a knockout After leaving your belongings in the locker #HERMESFIT moment. 40



FASHION L’Officiel Austria with a trend report from the runways of this year’s royal fashion discipline: Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris. A story of how hues of purple, lilac and pink stole the show. By ANNA ZNAMENSKY

At Chanel, Virginie Viard leaves URRPIRUßH[SHULPHQWDWLRQàE\\ joining forces with artists and muses such as Xavier Veilhan, Sébastien Tellier, Charlotte Casiraghi, Pharrell Williams and model Vivienne Rohner for her Fall-Winter 2022/23 Haute Couture show. Image provided by: © Chanel

FASHION Rami Al Ali’s 26-piece Autumn/Winter 2022/23 Haute Couture collection is a perfect interplay between the past and present. French couturier Julien Images provided by: © Rami Al Ali, © Julien Fournié, © Elie Saab Fournié pretends that ßFXWUHāQHPHQWDQG beauty still make it possible to transform our vulnerability into weapons and change our perspective to DSSURDFKWKHZRUOGà Pretty in pink was the motto of our favourite creatures of the open sea and accordingly Floor sweeping gowns, Haute Couture Look from Chanel’s runway carried the name, “First Creatures”. crystal veils, sequins, this year. A long dress, like “Mademoiselle It is the “Beginning of Twilight” at Elie and bodices take centre- Chanel imagined them in the 1930s”, states Saab this year, and accordingly, each brea- stage at Elie Saab’s Viard, that is fitted to the body paired with thtaking piece is an impression of the set- Haute Coture Fall-Winter strong shoulders. The central material for ting and rising sun. As always, Saab stuns 2022/23 show – the king this look, lace, is inlaid, reworked, not with intricate embellishments, shimmering of embellishments embroidered, but repainted. It is completed beads, and particularly notable in this col- himself. with a necklace from the anniversary High lection, flattering nude tulles. Jewellery collection “1932”, with celestial elements. Soft shades of old rose pink and lavender lilac are brought to life using luxurious fabrics such as taffeta, satin, and double- faced silks, incorporated with delicate silk muslin and tulles at Rami Al Ali, whose Autumn-Winter 2022/23 Couture collec- tion was inspired by the “timeless glamour and youthful spirit of the iconic 1960s era”, according to the designer. Dark and light purples and blues, fused with metallic coloured threads, were used to mimic the bodies of jellyfish and manta- rays in Julien Fournié’s Fall-Winter 2022/23 collection that drew its inspiration from the 44

FASHION At Tony Ward, prepare to turn heads this season in cuts that embrace the female form and body and follow its rhythm. For Zuhair Murad, “Couture is a conspirator of the cosmos and its lucky stars. At times all that’s needed is a gown to attract love, fortune and IDPHà Images provided by: © Tony Ward, © Zuhair Murad “THIS freedom IS ALL WHAT MATTERS NOW. IT MAY SEEM LIKE a silent dance, BUT IT’S NOT.” Tony Ward It is all about turning heads this season at Tony Ward. The Italian Lebanese designer has been dubbed the “architect of detail” and his Fall Winter 2022/23 Couture Col- lection is the perfect embodiment of why. Fabrics with three-dimensional embroide- ries and colourful silks set the scene. Last but not least, Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad draws on inspiration from the world of Tarot cards and presents ball gowns in deep majestic purples with bare midriffs accompanied by capes on which astonishing motifs are applied, or tattoos embroidered on transparent tulle – the signature look of House Zuhair Murad. 45

FASHION 1 Falling INTO FALL From classic chic to colourful, glittery and spectacular – L´Officiel Austria presents our absolutely favourite looks for fall! By STEFANIE LANG 2 5 3 Images provided by: 1., 2., 3., 8. © GUCCI, 4. © 7 For All Mankind, 5. © Self-Portrait, 6. © Bulgari, 7. © Jimmy Choo 4 6 7 CLASSIC WITH STYLE This look combines timelessness with stylish elegance, but is still more than adequate to be worn in everyday life. The strass-encrusted wristwatch in malachite and pink acts as an eye-cat- cher and rounds off the look ideally: it creates an impression of a harmonious colour play of warm autumn hues, which makes every fashion heart beat faster in this changeover season. 1. Pilot sunglasses gold, GUCCI 2. Blazer in sage green, GUCCI 3. Leather belt in white with gold, GUCCI 4. Straight denim jeans in white, 7 FOR ALL MANKIND 5. Top with sequins in brown, SELF-PORTRAIT 6. Watch in malachite & pink, BULGARI 7. Sandals with half heel in brown, JIMMY CHOO 8. Leather handbag with strap in brown, GUCCI 8 46

FASHION 1 PINK IS THE NEW BLACK A touch of pink or a whole look in pink? We’ll take the latter! Per- 2 fect for any cool autumn shopping Saturday in the city center, this out- fit will captivate you with its lovely charm, iconic statement pieces and a lot of femininity! 1. 5DLQERZāQHMHZHOOHU\\QHFNODFHDOLCE&GABBANA 2. ß3XUHàFDUGLJDQLQSLQNSIMONE BRUNS 3. Wrist watch with pink sapphires, BULGARI 4. Top with silver buttons in pink, SELF-PORTRAIT 5. Skirt with silver buttons in pink, SELF-PORTRAIT 6. Handbag Panthere in white, CARTIER 3 7. 5DLQERZāQHMHZHOOHU\\HDUULQJVDOLCE&GABBANA 8. Ankle boots in white with pearls, JIMMY CHOO 4 Images provided by: 1., 7. © Dolce&Gabbana, 2. © Simone Bruns, 3. © Bulgari, 4., 5. © Self-Portrait, 6. © Cartier, 8. © Jimmy Choo 5 7 6 8 47

FASHION 3 4 1 5 2 8 7 ALL EYES ON YOU 6 Images provided by: 1., 3., 4. © Self-Portrait, 2., 7., 8. © Pomellato, 5. © Chanel, 6. © Giorgio Armani If you like to be boldly fashionable, this outfit is guaranteed to attract all eyes to you: glamorous, glittery and stylish – this look is not only extraordinary and spectacular, but also contains pieces that you would display in your wardrobe as absolute fashion treasures. 1. Top in red-blue with buttons, SELF-PORTRAIT 2. Silver ring, POMELLATO 3. Black skirt with golden buttons, SELF-PORTRAIT 4. Glittery coat in silver, SELF-PORTRAIT 5. Dark blue and red handbag, CHANEL 6. Glittery black boots, GIORGIO ARMANI 7. Necklace in silver, POMELLATO 8. Stud earrings in silver, POMELLATO 48

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