[Lonely Planet] Montreal & Quebec City

PDF Montréal & Québec City PDF ebook Edition 4th Edition Release Date Dec 2015 Pages 288 Useful Links Want more guides? PHuelal-dotuotomurasphop Trouble with your PDF? TroTuobplessihgohottshere Nineefdulml doeretahiellp? Head to our FAQs Expert reSCcotomanymtaiencnttduoastuihocnehsre © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.

4 How to Use This Book easy-to-use Top Sights features provide in-depth sections coverage of the city’s very best sights. Plan Your Trip BASILIQUE NOTRE-DAME Your planning tool kit Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: Photos, lists and suggestions to help you create your perfect trip. 1 SIGHTS 3 ENTERTAINMENT 5 EATING 7 SHOPPING Explore 6 DRINKING & 2 SPORTS & Your complete city guide NIGHTLIFE ACTIVITIES Top Sights features, in-depth All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, reviews and local tips. starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that Understand we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Get more from your trip Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price Learn about the big picture, so you range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference. can make sense of the city. These symbols and abbreviations give vital Survival Guide information for each listing: Your at-a-glance reference Must-visit recommendation Vital practical information to help Sustainable or green recommendation you have a smooth trip. No payment required plus % Telephone number f Ferry h Opening hours j Tram full-color p Parking d Train map section n Nonsmoking apt apartments a Air-conditioning d double rooms 314 315 i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms Key on p313 e# 0 500 m s Swimming pool r rooms 0 0.25 miles v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites A Hauptbahnhof B C D EF GH c Family-friendly tr triple rooms ghAlt-Moabit Johannisstr 222 # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms ji g Bus 16 Washingtonplatz See map Charité- Kalkscheunenstr Oranienburger Str 2Alte2r 2 #æ p319 Platz 2 Jü2disc2her 62 2Frie2dhof2 ý# Monbijou2p2lat2z 2 2 2 Rahel-Hirsch-Str Kapelleufer Luisenstr Schumannstr Friedrichstr Tucholskystr 1 Monbijoustr 2 Neu 3 1 Spree Reinhardtstr Ziegelstr Hackescher 4 2 River Am Weidendamm MarekPt#¦romenade 5 hg3 Hackescher Markt HISTORIC MITTE 4 Willy-B#ærMano6dltt-SkterbrücOktetoS-pvroBenPeu-banBoud#§igles-esLmntöapabgarecr2-K#ækkA6o-Alnlerlaleede-AdenauerA-2#æSd5terl-eK1#æ-9rSicehgreeri-KbSaetrrrlplatSzchRiMefifcabrhaiseutneasrgdturafemrm Albrechtstr Bertolt- Monbijou HISTORIC MITTE 5 Brecht- Park Burgstr Platz Geschwister-Scholl-Str Universitätsstr 52 û# 33 Friedrichstr Planckstr 49 ú# ú# Bahnhof #â 31 #§ ý# #þ Am Kupfergraben Friedrichstr #£¦# 56 Friedrichbrücke Friedrichstr ú# Georgenstr Bauho7f1st7r#â Bodestr See map p318 48 Heinrich-Von- Gagern-Str Hegelplatz Am Zeughaus Liebknecht- brücke RPleaptuz bdleikr â# Reichstag Dorotheenstr Charlottenstr ý#61 Mittelstr ú# 42 67 #æ #þ ü# IM Pei Lustgarten Bau Scheidemannstr Humboldt 55 ú# 34 Universität 24 John-Foster-Dulles-Allee Yitzhak-Rabin-Str æ# #â Site of 72 Future Berliner Strasse des 17 Juni Bran&dePnabriusregrePr lTa#æotzDr#ïZ0000000000BP0000000000aPan#æ0000000000lraikst00000000007zeB#æ8rr0000000000a#ÿ1#nd#§7Te4onAHrbduorl#¦togeneâ#lr 65 #þ Linden Staatsoper Deutsches Stadtschloss See map #þ Unter den Historisches Unter den Rathausstr p316 18 53 2 Linden Museum Schlossplatz Tiergarten 28 59 ý# û# #â Bellevueallee #æ 30 3 æ# ý# Oberwallstr Tiergartenstr #æ 38 ú# Bebelplatz #ý 58 47#þ4#æ13ú#04ú#532ÿ##þú#ú#5ý#000000000000000077379B3G00000000000000009ý#6ee0000000000000000h0Ü#nr0000000000000000eæ#Fd1nra30000000000000000asrnt4m0000000000000000rz76#þöeâ#ú##þ3sni2û#6â#5ms111c14a#âhreÜ#2k2S7Ht2Jtaräu#§gsevHrosagtutr3ú#es7vipo1l5gat#âte7#ÿzi6plAatuzsAwAuämsrwAttWiämgrSeetttrsigadeaestrssrtartsgePbeäturidpelatzBreite Str 54 û# ú# Behrenstr For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. 46 Französische Str 2 H2 o2lo2c2au2s2t 2 2 Cora-Berliner-Str #§ 2 M2emo2ria2l 2 Glinkastr Jägerstr #æ2 2 2 2 Mauerstr 22222 Tiergartentunnel 8 2 22Ha2nn22ah2S-Atr22ren2d22t- 2 Oberwasserstr #æ Lennéstr In den Ministergärten #æ 17 Kolonnade Taubenstr #§ú# â# 9 Markgrafenstr Mohrenstr ú# 40Jerusalemer Str NiederwallstrKurstr 77 Kemperplatz An der Stadtmitte 36 50 û# Kronenstr #ÿ #þ Bellevuestr Ebertstr #§ 68 Mohrenstr Am Park Vossstr Friedrichstr #§ Ben-Gurion-Str Mauerstr Leipziger Str Spittelmarkt Wilhelmstr Leipziger Platz #â Markgrafenstr Krausenstr ÿ# 75 Axel-Springer-Str Leipziger Str 23 Charlottenstr Kulturforum PPolAatltstzedPaomtsedramer StDr aiml#¦er Potsdame#§r Platz 12 #â 10 Schützenstr Kommandantenstr 6 6 Matthäikirchplatz City Potsdamer Platz Niederkirchner Str #â Topographie #æ Sigismundstr Potsdamer Str des Terrors 29 Zimmerstr w ij gh4 â# â#5 ú# 41 GKaöbtrhieelneLe-irTneSkrtsgrtirt-Promenade Askanischer #æCheckpoint Charlie Marlene- Platz æ# 66 #þ #þ Dietrich- 69 20 #â ú# 43 Rudi-Dutschke-Str Platz ú# 45 Landwehrkanal ScRheöicnhebpeiertgsecrhUuPffeeorBrtsrüdcakmeer Stresemannstr Kochstr #§ Kochstr Lindenstr Oranienstr 7 Alt e Jakobstr Waldeckpark 7 See map Ritterstr See map p322 p324 A B C D#¦ E F G H 42-map-section-bln8.indd 314 23/1412/-2m0a1p2-se3c:1ti5o:n3-2blPn8M.indd 315 23/11/2012 3:15:32 PM

Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Montréal & Québec City “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PL ANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Regis St Louis, Gregor Clark

Contents PPlalannYYouoruTrrTiprip 1page 4 Welcome to Montréal & Top Itineraries����������������16 Eating���������������������������28 Québec City��������������������� 4 If You Like����������������������� 18 Drinking & Nightlife���32 Montréal’s Top 10������������ 6 Month by Month�������������21 Entertainment�������������36 What’s New�������������������� 13 With Kids������������������������ 24 Shopping��������������������� 40 Need to Know�����������������14 Visiting Québec City����� 25 Explore Montréal & Québec City 42 Neighborhoods at a Quartier Latin & Day Trips from Glance����������������������������44 the Village����������������������89 Montréal��������������������143 Old Montréal������������������46 Plateau Mont-Royal������101 Parc Jean-Drapeau�������66 Little Italy, Mile End & Sleeping���������������������154 Downtown�����������������������71 Outremont��������������������116 Southwest & Québec City��������������� 167 Outer Montréal������������ 129 Understand Montréal & 211 Québec City Montréal Today����������� 212 People & Culture��������� 221 Architecture�����������������229 History�������������������������� 214 Music & the Arts����������224 Québec City History & Culture��������������������������233 Survival Guide  237 Transportation������������238 Language���������������������248 Directory A–Z��������������243 Index�����������������������������255 Montréal Maps  266

HENRY GEORGI / GETTY IMAGES © WAYNE BARRETT & ANNE MACKAY / GETTY IMAGES © (left) Québec City p167 MARIANNA ARMATA / GETTY IMAGES © Stroll along historic Old Town streets. (above) Parc Jean- Drapeau, Montréal p66 Escape the city bustle at this leafy oasis. (right) Grey squirrel Often seen in eastern Canada. Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont p116 Plateau Mont-Royal p101 Downtown Quartier Latin p71 & the Village p89 Old Montréal p46 Parc Jean-Drapeau p66

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Montréal & Québec City A captivating blend of old and new, with stone-walled taverns, candlelit drinking dens, wild festivals and a cutting-edge arts scene. Cuisine Capital Cities of Design Blessed with one of the most exciting food Montréal is a slice of old Europe in a pie scenes in North America, Montréal brims of contemporary design. A day’s wander with temples dedicated to Kamouraska might take in the photogenic 18th-century lamb, Arctic char and, of course, poutine facades of Old Montréal before a cycling (fries smothered in cheese curds and gravy). tour of the lovely Canal de Lachine, or a You’ll find irresistible patisseries, English wander through the glittering shops and pubs, 87-year-old Jewish delis and mag- restaurants of downtown before ending at nificent food markets reminiscent of Paris. the inviting terraced cafes of Plateau Mont- There are hipster bars with tiny bowling Royal. The architectural sweep of the city alleys and innumerable cafes in which to takes in a wealth of heritage churches such while away a lazy afternoon. And there are as the breathtaking Basilique Notre-Dame, late-night eateries where you can linger over as well as 20th-century icons like the Stade wondrous combinations of food and drink Olympique and Habitat 67. Not to be out- that you’ll find nowhere else on earth. shone, Québec City is a stunning jewel of old-world design, with cobblestone streets, Festivals Galore 17th- and 18th-century stone houses and slender church spires, set on the cliffs above Toronto may be Canada’s economic capital, the St Lawrence. but Montréal remains the country’s cultural juggernaut, with some 250 theater and Winter Wonderland dance companies, more than 90 festivals and a fascinating medley of neighborhoods Montréal and Québec City do get some where artists, writers and musicians have long, cold winters. But the natives have helped cement the city’s reputation as a learned to make the best of them, cheering great arts center. The Festival International on local hockey legends Les Canadiens de de Jazz de Montréal is the headline event, Montréal, tobogganing down snowy slopes, followed by parties dedicated to world cin- ice skating beside the St Lawrence River ema, comedy and gay pride. Québec City and skiing at many fine resorts nearby. also dazzles, with its grand Winter Carnival, If you can’t bear the chill, just wander music-filled summer fests and colorful fire- through Montréal’s underground city and works over the river. surface at the nearest pub.

ALAN COPSON / GETTY IMAGES © Why I Love Montréal By Regis St Louis, Author I’m always struck by the unbridled creativity of this city. You see it in the magnificent inventions being stirred up in restaurant kitchens, in the barroom and on stage, and you even see it walking down the street with incredible urban art lurking in unexpected places. The dual French-English mix adds dynamism to the city as does its unique mash-up of European and North American culture. Most captivating of all are the people themselves. Montréalers embody joie de vivre. They eat well, throw great parties and are happy to share their city. For more about our authors, see p288. Top: Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde (p77), Montréal

6 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Montréal’s Top 10

7 Old Montréal (p46) Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal (p73) 1 The old city is where Montréal began and where its heart still lies. Stroll the 2 This ever-expanding gem in the heart old-world cobblestoned streets and grand of downtown Montréal is one of the plazas, and learn about local history in the best museums in the country. The striking museums. The neighborhood also has fine Bourgie Pavilion is in a gorgeous 19th- churches, 19th-century (and earlier) build- century church adjacent to the original ings juxtaposed with contemporary con- neoclassical building, while the modern structions, excellent shops and boutiques, Desmarais Pavilion across the street re- numerous art galleries and cafes for your flects its engagement with contemporary inner bohemian, and some of Montréal’s art. Among the museum’s treasures is a finest dining and lodging options. Old Mon- beautifully displayed collection of Inuit tréal is like traveling in time without leaving art, along with some magnificent works by the best of modernity behind. BELOW LEFT: Québecois artists. Temporary exhibitions range from iconic paintings from Moorish HÔTEL DE VILLE (CITY HALL; P51) Spain to Jean Paul Gaultier retrospectives. 1Old Montréal 1Downtown GUYLAIN DOYLE / GETTY IMAGES © GREGORY OLSEN / GETTY IMAGES ©

DAVID LEFRANC / GETTY IMAGES © JOSE FUSTE RAGA / GETTY IMAGES © 8 PL A N YO U R TRI P M o n t r é al’ s T op 1 0

9 PL A N YO U R TRI P M o n t r é al’ s T op 1 0 JOANNE LEVESQUE / GETTY IMAGES © Musical Montréal Basilique Notre- Parc du Dame (p48) Mont-Royal (p105) (p224) 4 The pride of Montréal 5 The lungs of Montréal, 3 Montréalers are justly and one of the most Parc du Mont-Royal is proud of their passion beautiful churches on the the large green space cov- for cultivating and appre- continent, the Basilique ering much of Mont-Royal, ciating good music. What Notre-Dame is a 19th- the mountain at the heart else would you expect from century Gothic Revival of the city. Montréalers a city that has turned out masterpiece with spectacu- grow up spending their everything from Leonard lar craftsmanship. Originally winters sledding down its Cohen to Arcade Fire? it was a humble building slopes and skating on its That’s part of the reason dating from 1683; it was ponds. The rest of the year why thousands gather rebuilt in 1829. Everything, is perfect for looking out downtown every summer from the great bell (12 tons) over the city from its bel- for the sizzling sounds of in the western tower to the vederes, jogging, biking or the Festival International de 1891 organ with its 7000 simply walking its forested Jazz de Montréal, the city’s pipes and the stained-glass paths. An abundance of main party. Free outdoor windows depicting the city’s fauna and flora make it a shows, star performers and history, speaks of the strong big draw for nature lovers. a wide variety of genres faith of the congregations of make it one of the best yesteryear. 1Plateau Mont-Royal reasons to visit. TOP LEFT: 1Old Montréal MUSICIANS PERFORMING AT THE FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL DE JAZZ DE MONTRÉAL (P225) 3Music & the Arts

10 Rue St-Denis (p91) Canal de Lachine (p132) 6 Few parts of Montréal feel as bohe- 7 This old industrial waterway that pow- mian and laid-back as Rue St-Denis ered Canada’s industrialization has in the Quartier Latin. On the blocks below been cleaned, spruced up and made ready Rue Sherbrooke Est, students from the to welcome thousands of bikers, joggers nearby Université du Québec à Montréal and amateur sailors every summer. The (UQAM) sip beer in brasseries, artists best way to enjoy it is to rent a bike and hobnob in cafes and everyone else seems pedal from Old Montréal to the Marché to just watch the world go by. No wonder Atwater, where you can browse farm pro- it was at the heart of the student pro- duce, artisanal cheeses and freshly baked test movement that erupted in the city goods. The canal’s banks are a perfect in recent years. It’s also home to some spot for picnicking with your purchases. excellent theaters, cinemas, cafes and restaurants. 1Southwest & Outer Montréal IAN DAGNALL / ALAMY © PL A N YO U R TRI P M o n t r é al’ s T op 1 0 1Quartier Latin & the Village

MAXIM BULAT / GETTY IMAGES © 11PL A N YO U R TRI P M o n t r é al’ s T op 1 0 PERRY MASTROVITO/ GETTY IMAGES © Old Port (p57) 8 There’s always some- thing fun happening at Montréal’s Old Port, whatever your pleasure. Take in a circus performance at Cirque du Soleil, bring the kids to a sci- ence museum, hop on a boat cruise to the Lachine Rapids, pamper yourself in a floating spa or simply park yourself in a cafe along Rue de la Com- mune and do some serious people-watching. There’s even a Plage de l’Horloge, an artificial beach on the river- front where you can dig your heels in the sand and gaze out over the mighty St Lawrence (but no swimming). LEFT: PLAGE DE L’HORLOGE (P65) 1Old Montréal

PL A N YO U R TRI P M o n t r é al’ s T op 1 012 GUYLAIN DOYLE / GETTY IMAGES © Marché Jean-Talon (p118) PHILIPPE RENAULT / GETTY IMAGES © 9 Where to begin? This farmers market in Little Italy has hundreds of vendors hawking fresh vegetables, fruit, seafood and baked goods, as well as seemingly endless restaurants and shops selling everything from Québec jams and wine to maple prod- ucts, goat’s cheese, honey, microbrewed beers, crepes, European and Middle Eastern pastries, and artisanal deli meats. Nearby restaurants such as Kitchen Galerie take full advantage, to the delight of foodies. 1 Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont Parc Jean-Drapeau (p66) 10 You might not have a ticket to the Grand Prix du Canada here, but this pair of island parks in the St Lawrence River is a great spot to get a view of the city and plenty of fresh air. The Musée Stewart is a rare, authentic British garrison that tells the history of the city. After walking the forested paths, you can go thrill-seeking at the La Ronde amusement park or, for adults, the Casino de Montréal. Just save enough for the metro ride back. ABOVE: BIOSPHÈRE (P68), DESIGNED BY BUCKMINSTER FULLER 1Parc Jean-Drapeau

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 13 What’s New Île Ste-Hélène Expanded Galleries One of Old Montréal’s top museums (the There’s much afoot on this island park Musée d’Archéologie et d’Histoire Pointe- facing Old Montréal. In preparation for the à-Callière) has a new building next door 50th anniversary of the 1967 Expo, Île Ste- where it shows temporary exhibitions – Hélène will get a makeover, with a new riv- often some of the best in town. (p49) erside promenade and new concert space for its ample summer festival calendar. Repurposing the fur district The Biosphère (p68), inside Fuller’s iconic Several new hot spots have reclaimed geodesic dome, is also getting a makeover, buildings of the former fur district. Head as is the high-end restaurant on the island, to Café Parvis (p80) for delicious lunches, Hélène de Champlain (p69). and Furco (p82) next door for drinks after hours. New attractions on New Music Festival Île Notre-Dame Montréal will host yet another electronic- Part of Parc Jean-Drapeau, this island dance-music festival called AIM. It’s at (p68) now has wakeboarding on the lake Parc Carrillon, around an hour from the and stand-up paddleboarding (plus yoga). city, and you can camp (www.twitter.com/ In winter, the beach chalet becomes a aim_montreal). cabane à sucre (sugar shack). Casino de Montréal An ever-expanding collection The city’s casino is looking very stylish One of the city’s best museums keeps indeed following a four-year, $300-million getting better. Work is underway on yet renovation. In addition to bold architec- another wing (its fifth) on the Musée des ture, it has new restaurants and bars, plus Beaux-Arts de Montréal. (p73) a new lineup of live music. (p69) Cocktail craze Le Vin Papillon Montréalers have embraced high-end art- The folks behind Joe Beef have opened this fully prepared cocktails, and there are stellar wine and small-plates restaurant, loads of new bars to sample the goods, and it should be on the list of any self- such as Le Mal Necessaire. (p63) respecting foodie who comes to town. (p80) Microbreweries A great craft beer is never far from hand, For more recommendations owing to a wealth of new microbreweries and reviews, see lonelyplanet. and beer bars that have opened. A new com/canada/montreal favorite is Isle de Garde. (p126)

14 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p237) Currency Daily Costs Advance Planning Canadian dollar ($) Budget: Two months before Book less than $100 tickets for hockey games and Languages major festivals such as the ¨¨Dorm bed: $22–32 Festivale International de Jazz French and English ¨¨Supermarkets, markets, de Montréal, and make reserva- fast-food restaurants: $30 tions for top restaurants. Visas ¨¨Bixi bike rental, 24 hours: $5 Three weeks before Scan web ¨¨Movie tickets: $12 listings for festivals and events; Not required for citizens of book hotels and rental bikes. Be Australia, New Zealand, United Midrange: sure to have adequate clothing Kingdom and the United States, $100–$200 for winter. among others. See www.cic.gc.ca. A few days before Check the ¨¨Double room in a B&B: weather at www.weatheroffice. Money $130–180 gc.ca. ¨¨Two-course dinner with ATMs widespread. Major credit glass of wine: $60 Useful Websites cards widely accepted. ¨¨Theater ticket: $40 Lonely Planet (www.lonely Cell Phones Top End: planet.com/montreal) Destina- more than $200 tion information, hotel bookings, Buy local prepaid SIM cards for traveler forum and more. use with international phones. ¨¨Boutique hotel room: Montreal Gazette (www.mon $200–350 trealgazette.com) Montréal’s Time ¨¨Table d’hôte (fixed-price, English-language newspaper multicourse meal) in deluxe covers everything from politics Eastern Time (GMT/UTC minus restaurant with wine: $80 to sports. five hours, minus four hours ¨¨Canadiens de Montréal The Main MTL (www.themain March to November). hockey ticket: $200 mtl.com) Insider take on the latest in dining, drinking, music Tourist Information and the arts. Ville de Montréal (www.ville. Centre Infotouriste (%877- montreal.qc.ca) Useful travel 266-5687, 514-873-2015; www. info and events calendar from tourisme-montreal.org; 1255 Rue the city’s official website. Peel; h8:30am-7pm; mPeel) provides maps, info about at- tractions and booking services (hotels, car hire, tours).

15 WHEN TO GO Montréal Despite the high °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm humidity, summer 30/86 10/250 is the best season, 20/68 8/200 followed by spring 10/50 6/150 PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed t o K n o w then fall. Winter can 0/32 4/100 be spectacular if you’re up to the cold -10/14 2/50 temperatures. -20/-4 0 JF MAM J J ASOND Arriving in Getting Around Sleeping Montréal ¨¨Bus Buses cover central Finding a place to bunk in Pierre Elliott Trudeau Inter- parts of the island with well- Montréal is easy thanks to national Airport Buses and marked routes. They run from the many hotels that have taxis run to downtown Montréal 5am to 1am, with separate opened in the past decade. around the clock; buses $10, night services. Summer is peak season, taxis $40. It takes 45 minutes to ¨¨Metro There are four so if you’re traveling to an hour to get downtown by bus, lines, blue trains and unique see a festival, book well in and around 30 minutes by taxi. rubber wheels. Trains run advance. Gare Centrale Trains pulling approximately from 5am to in to Montréal arrive at this midnight and until 1:30am on Boutique hotels in his- downtown terminus, within easy Friday and Saturday nights. toric places such as Old reach of many parts of the city ¨¨Bicycle The city’s popular Montréal have some of the by taxi. Bixi bike-rental system has most sought after rooms, Gare d’Autocars de Montréal more than 450 stations, but you can also experience Most long-distance buses arrive covering central and outlying culture at B&Bs housed in at this station in the Quartier areas. There is an extensive heritage buildings in other Latin, with handy connections to network of bike paths too. neighborhoods. the Berri-UQAM metro station. ¨¨Boat Good for day trips to Parc Jean-Drapeau and cruises Accommodations range For much more on on the St Lawrence River. from cheap, no-frills hos- arrival, see p238 ¨¨Walking Subway stations tels and generic hotels to are fairly close in the city charming B&Bs, boutique centre; save a little cash by hotels and deluxe suites. walking if you only need to go one stop. Useful Websites For much more on ¨¨Experience Old Montréal getting around, (www.experienceoldmontreal. see p239 com) The Antonopoulos Group’s collection of hotels, bars and restaurants in the old city. ¨¨Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/canada/ montreal/hotels) Dozens of author-reviewed hotels, hostels and guesthouses. ¨¨Tourisme Montréal (www. tourisme-montreal.org) Excellent tourism website. For much more on sleeping, see p154

16 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Top Itineraries Day One Day Two Old Montréal (p46) Downtown (p71) M Take the subway to Place-d’Armes M Start your tour of downtown Mon- and make a beeline for the stunning tréal at Musée des Beaux-Arts de Basilique Notre-Dame. Explore the cob- Montréal for its excellent collection of Old blestoned streets of the old town, winding Masters and contemporary art. Architec- your way to the sailors’ church, Chapelle ture aficionados will dig the contemporary Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours. Stroll up Desmarais pavilion as well as the Claire Place Jacques-Cartier with its many busk- & Marc Bourgie Pavilion in an 1890s ers and artists, into the Château Ramezay church. Next stroll down Rue Sherbrooke museum. Ouest, home to tiny shops and heritage mansions, toward McGill University. Lunch Grab a tasty baguette sandwich at Titanic (p58). Lunch Vegetarian-friendly Lola Rosa (p79) has great food and ambience. Old Montréal (p46) Canal de Lachine (p132) R Deepen your understanding of the city’s history at the excellent Musée R Hop on the metro to Lionel-Groulx d’Archéologie et d’histoire Pointe-à- and walk down to Marché Atwater Callière before crossing Pl d’Youville to for a look at the farmers’ produce, croissants Fonderie Darling for its innovative and cheese. If you have the energy, rent a contemporary-art installations. Bixi bike from a nearby station and pedal the Canal de Lachine. If not, consider a Dinner Garde-Manger (p59) for a fun cruise on the canal. crowd, and tasty cocktails and dishes. Dinner For incredible Québecois fare, Old Montréal (p46) try Joe Beef (p81) if you can get in. N If you’re not dining in style, grab a Downtown (p71) quick pizza at Bevo before catching a show at Cirque du Soleil in the Old Port. N Upstairs has nightly jazz perfor- You might also consider watching the sky mances, or better yet the jazz festival turn various colors at sunset while down- will be rocking the blocks around Place des ing an old-fashioned on the rooftop patio at Arts if your timing is right. Otherwise grab Terrasse Nelligan. Party the night away a postdinner glass at the Dominion Square at scenester magnet Velvet or Philémon, Tavern or hear some beats at underground which will rock you until 3am. Bleury Bar à Vinyle.

17 Day Three Day Four PL A N YO U R TRI P T o p I ti n eraries Little Italy, Mile End & Parc Jean-Drapeau (p66) Outremont (p116) M A river runs through it, dividing M Make for Little Italy to explore the Parc Jean-Drapeau into two isles. mouthwatering Marché Jean- Begin at Île Ste-Hélène with a tour of re- Talon. Stroll down to the local church, markable buildings from yesteryear. Learn the Église Madonna della Difesa, and about the environment and our impact on be sure to spot Mussolini on the ceiling. it at the Biosphère, housed in Buckmin- Browse the old-world shops along Blvd ster Fuller’s geodesic dome built for Expo St-Laurent before hopping a bus (or Bixi) ’67. Not far away, the Musée Stewart is to Mile End. the site of an authentic British garrison. Lunch Enjoy market-fresh fare at the Lunch Snacks along the forested paths. charming little Arts Cafe (p118). Little Italy, Mile End & Parc Jean-Drapeau (p66) Outremont (p116) R Wander the island’s walking paths, R Ramble along St-Viateur and taking in the outdoor sculptures Bernard, visiting Drawn & before kicking up your heels at Piknic Quarterly for its whimsical book selec- Électronik, a summertime electronica tions, hipster curiosities at Monastiraki dance fest. If it’s not on, try for some thrills and artfully recycled objects at Galerie on the world’s tallest wooden roller coaster CO. Before dinner, grab a taxi to Parc du at La Ronde. You can grab panoramic but Dinner Inventive Vietnamese fusion Dinner High-end fare at a new restau- and drinks at Hà (p110). rant in the Casino de Montréal (p69). Mont-Royal for a panoramic view of the decidedly slower views of the city from city from Kondiaronk lookout. 45m up on the Ferris wheel. Plateau Mont-Royal (p101) Parc Jean-Drapeau (p66) N Head down to Casa del Popolo N The island is a perfect spot to and see what the hipster kids are watch the sky explode with fire- cheering for on stage. Afterward, take a works during L’International des Feux late-night bar crawl down Blvd St-Laurent. Loto Québec. If not, the Casino de Stop in Big in Japan for elegance and Montréal has everything you need for a high-end libations, Majestique for oysters good time; just bring luck. Or take a long walk or quick taxi ride to Habitat ’67,

18 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd If You Like… Historic Buildings Bank of Montreal Canada’s old- Live Music est bank has a stunning marble Basilique Notre-Dame Dating interior and vaulted ceiling. Place des Arts There’s always from the 19th century, this (p49) something going on amid the Gothic Revival masterpiece Vieux Séminaire de St-Sulpice plaza’s high-tech concert halls. simply dazzles. (p48) The clock on this 1680s seminary (p83) Château Ramezay A well- was a present from Louis XIV. L’Astral This jazz venue in a preserved 18th-century (p49) century-old building is a favorite governors’ home. (p50) Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du- for the jazz festival. (p83) Hôtel de Ville Rebuilt in 1926, Monde This 19th-century land- Casa del Popolo From folk the city’s gorgeous city hall dis- mark was a symbol of Catholic guitarists to spoken-word poets, plays local art by the legislative power in Protestant Montréal. Casa does artsy like nowhere chamber. (p51) (p77) else. (p113) DAVID MADISON / GETTY IMAGES © Rue St-Paul (p46), Old Montréal

19 Metropolis From raves to David Westmount The national For more top Montréal PLAN YOUR TRIP If You Like… Bowie, this former cinema has historic site is awash in Victorian spots, see the following: seen it all and keeps delivering. homes, leafy parks and its herit- ¨¨Eating (p28) (p84) age city hall. (p76) ¨¨Drinking & Nightlife (p32) Dièse Onze A charming base- Old Montréal Head down ¨¨Entertainment (p36) ment jazz den with brassy beats shop- and restaurant-lined Rue ¨¨Shopping (p40) and decent snacks. (p113) St-Paul, then lose yourself in the quiet backstreets. (p54) Cafe Culture Museums Canal de Lachine This once industrial canal has been Le Cagibi Café Bohemian spot Musée des Beaux-Arts de transformed into a 14km-long for coffee or vegetarian fare by Montréal A showcase of old cycling and pedestrian pathway. day, drinks and arts events by masters and contemporary (p132) night. (p120) artists. (p73) Jardin Botanique Stop to smell Caffè Italia This very unpreten- Musée d’Art Contemporain A the flowers in these lush 75- tious coffee shop in Little Italy weighty collection of artworks hectare gardens. (p133) really feels like the old country. from Québecois legends. Plage des Îles This lovely if (p123) (p74) artificial beach makes a great Pikolo Espresso Bar The signa- Musée Stewart This old British destination on a hot day. ture drink in this stylish space is garrison displays relics from (p70) the Pikolo ristretto, which goes Canada’s past. (p68) down smooth. (p80) Château Ramezay A home of City Cycling Olive + Gourmando With such French governors and one of yummy sandwiches, this bakery- the finest examples from the Canal de Lachine Follow the cafe in the heart of Old Montréal ancient regime. (p50) peaceful waterway from Old is easy to love. (p58) Musée d’Archéologie et Montréal out to the Lac St-Louis. Flocon Espresso Tiny joint d’Histoire Pointe-à-Callière An (p132) where coffee nerds high-five excellent history museum built Boulevard de Maisonneuve over some of the city’s best on the spot where European Much of this one-way street espressos. (p109) settlers put up their first camp. cutting through downtown has Café Olimpico A fun, buzzing (p49) its own bike lanes. (p45) crowd with great people- Fur Trade at Lachine National Parc Jean-Drapeau These two watching potential in Mile End. Historic Site This 1803 stone park islands have winding trails (p120) depot in Lachine tells the for cycling and walking. (p66) Carré St-Louis Montréal’s pret- story of the fur trade in Canada. Parc du Mont-Royal It’s a tiest little square has a tiny cafe (p132) slog to pedal up here, but the with outdoor tables. (p103) wooded trails make it well worth Green Spaces the effort. (p101) Quaint Bixi You’ll get places fast by Backstreets Parc du Mont-Royal The city’s hopping around the city on main mountain, with wintertime these bike shares. (p240) Mile End Explore streets that skating and sledding, and biking are home to bagel bakeries, and jogging in summer. (p101) Pampering funky cafes and bars, and hip- Parc La Fontaine A leafy park ster hangouts in this multiethnic with a chalet restaurant over- Bota Bota A delightful spa district. (p45) looking a lake (and outdoor rink perched on the water near Old Plateau Mont-Royal From Ave in winter). (p103) Montréal. (p65) du Mont-Royal to Carré St-Louis, Parc des Rapides Watch the Strøm Nordic Spa This beauti- the Plateau is the city’s bohe- rushing rapids from a pictur- ful Scandinavian-style spa sits mian quarter, with artsy cafes, esque spot on the St Lawrence plentiful parks and unusual River. (p132) boutiques. (p45)

20 on an island a few kilometres (and from the cable-car ride from downtown. (p141) going up). (p135) Aquatic Studio Bliss Get active in a PLAN YOUR TRIP If You Like… yoga class, then treat yourself to Adventures Chapelle Notre-Dame-de- a massage. (p115) Bonsecours This 18th-century Aveda Montréal Lifestyle Saute-Moutons Go for a high- sailors’ chapel commands Salon Spa & Academy Offers a speed cruise on the waterfront splendid harbor views. (p50) full range of treatments, includ- on these thrilling jet boats. Oratoire St-Joseph You’ll earn ing an indulgent Rejuvenating (p65) those memorable views after Experience. (p115) Stand-Up Paddleboards Get climbing the 300 steps (though Ovarium Experience weightless- a workout paddling around the some prefer the lift). (p131) ness in the relaxing salt-filled lake on Île Notre-Dame. (p70) flotation baths. (p128) Unusual Sights Parc de La Rivière-des-Mille- Art Îles Take a self-guided canoe Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle Time trip among 10 islands near your visit to see the ring of fire Musée d’Art Contemporain Laval. (p141) on this striking fountain and Québec’s finest contemporary Rafting Montréal Head off on sculpture. (p55) artworks, in a sleek downtown a white-water paddle down the Gare Windsor Look for ghosts museum. (p74) Lachine Rapids. (p142) of the past in this haunt- H2O Adventures Rents kayaks ingly empty former railway and pedal boats for a leisurely glide on the peaceful Canal de concourse. (p77) Fonderie Darling Cutting-edge Lachine. (p142) Illuminated Crowd This side- installations in a hidden corner walk sculpture offers a rather of Old Montréal. (p50) dark view of humanity. (p75) Gibeau Orange Julep The great PHI Center Arts center with Panoramic Views orange ball atop this fast-food evocative exhibitions, plus fre- joint has become a city land- quent film screenings. (p50) Terrasse Place d’Armes Come mark. (p137) Galerie Simon Blais This summertime, this rooftop bar is Underground City (p75) prestigious gallery in Mile End the best place for a sundowner. Lose yourself among the inter- features some of Québec’s fin- (p62) connected malls, metro links est contemporary art. (p128) Kondiaronk lookout Magical and passageways. (p75) DHC Art Features mind-bending views over the city from atop Croix du Mont-Royal Yet an- contemporary works. (p64) Mont-Royal. (p105) other city icon is this tall metal Île Ste-Hélène Fantastic city cross that you can hike to in and waterfront views from an Parc du Mont-Royal. (p105) island just one metro stop from Old Montréal. (p68) Olympic Stadium Spectacular views from the inclined tower

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 21 Month by Month TOP EVENTS 3 Igloofest z Nuit Blanche Nuit Blanche, February If you love electronic music On a Saturday night in Grand Prix du Canada, don’t let the -20˚C tempera- late February, Montréal June tures deter you from this becomes one giant per- fun outdoor dance party formance space, with L’International des Feux and winter fest (www. all-night performances, Loto-Québec, July igloofest.ca) at the Old film screenings, art instal- Festival International de Port. It’s held over four lations and concerts (www. Jazz de Montréal, July weekends from mid- montrealenlumiere.com/ Montréal World Film January to early February. nuit-blanche). Hundreds of Festival, August Dress warm! venues participate. The big- gest challenge is choosing January February where to go. Montréal kicks off the Amid the deep freeze, April year with a bang, with snow piles up and New Year’s Eve parties Montréalers do their One sign that winter at restaurants and clubs best to beat the blahs is over is when the throughout the city. by cheering on the Bixi rental bicycles are Temperatures start to Canadiens hockey club. deployed and bike lanes really plummet and ski Temperatures can fall are reinstated. Spring is season begins. below -20˚C. here. z Fête des Neiges z Montréal en 3 Blue Metropolis Montréal’s Snow Festival Lumière Montréal International (www.parcjeandrapeau. Created to help shake off Literary Festival com) features ice-sculpting the late-winter doldrums, This festival (www. contests, dogsled races, Montréal en Lumière bluemetropolis.org) brings snow games and costumed (www.montrealenlumiere. together 200-plus writers characters such as mascot com) is a kind of wintry from all over the globe for polar bear Boule de Neige. Mardi Gras with concerts, five days of literary events It is held over four week- exhibitions and fireworks. in English, French, Span- ends in late January and Place des Arts becomes ish and other languages in early February. A great an illuminated fairground late April. There are even place for sledding, ice- with a Ferris wheel and zip events for kids. skating, zip-lining, curling line. Most events happen and skiing. downtown.

22 PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month May drink, some good food and million visitors every year, fireworks. North America’s hippest With the snow gone, rainy, music fest (www.montreal windy weather sets in but 6 Montréal Beer jazzfest.com) just gets big- doesn’t last. A few weeks ger and better, with world of mild weather preface Festival music, rock and even pop rising temperatures, Here’s your chance to quaff music sharing the program which can soon reach the brews from around the with jazz legends and up- high 20°Cs. globe (www.festivalmondial starts over 10 days from biere.qc.ca) over five days late June to early July. See 3 Piknic Électronik in mid-June. It’s held inside p225. the Palais des Congrès in On Sundays from mid-May downtown. 3 Just for Laughs to mid-September, you can enjoy outdoor revelry on 2 Grand Prix du More than 650 artists per- Parc Jean-Drapeau. House- form in over 1000 shows at spinning DJs work the Canada this comedy festival (www. decks on two stages, while Formula 1 is going strong in hahaha.com) which runs young friends gather and Montréal (www.circuit for two weeks in mid-July. dance on the grass (www. gillesvilleneuve.ca). It’s Past events have featured piknicelectronik.com). usually held in early or the Muppets, Kevin Hart, mid-June on the Circuit Margaret Cho, Lewis Black, z Biennale de Gilles-Villeneuve. Don’t for- Bob Saget and Bill Hader. get your earplugs. It brings Montréal huge crowds; book accom- August One of Montréal’s most modation well in advance. creative events (www.bien Steamy days, heat and nalemontreal.org) showcas- July thunderstorms mark es the best and the brashest August, when many of the Canadian art scene, The heat is on in July: Montréalers leave town including conferences and humidity sets in and for seaside resorts. It’s seminars on contemporary Montréalers long for high season for travel. art. It happens on even- surrounding lakes and numbered years. distant beaches. Tourists 3 Osheaga Festival throng the city for the 2 Tour de l’Île jazz fest and other major Musique et Arts festivals. In early August, Parc Jean- Also known as the Mon- Drapeau is transformed tréal Bikefest, the Tour de z L’International into a giant stage for one of l’Île (www.velo.qc.ca) draws the city’s grand rock festi- 30,000 cycling enthusiasts des Feux Loto- vals (www.osheaga.com). for a 50km spin around Québec More than 100,000 music the island of Montréal Thousands camp out on fans turn up to witness and a big party in the city rooftops and on the Pont the powerhouse lineup of afterward (there’s also a Jacques-Cartier for the performers, which in recent 28km route). It’s staged in planet’s hottest pyrotech- years has included heavy late May or early June, with nics display (www.interna hitters such as Jack White, preregistration required. tionaldesfeuxloto-quebec. Interpol, Stromae and Vam- com). The 10 shows last 30 pire Weekend. June minutes each and are held on Saturday nights and a 3 Festival du Film Amid this hot, festival- few Wednesday nights for packed month, Québecers the entire month of July. de Montréal celebrate their ‘national’ One of the most prestigious day, the Fête Nationale 3 Festival film events (www.ffm- du Québec, on June 24. montreal.org) in Canada, Everyone is out for a International de Jazz attracting 400,000 visi- de Montréal tors to screenings from 70 With more than 1000 countries. The stars come concerts and nearly two

(Top) Street performers, Festival International de Jazz de Montréal (p225) 23 (Bottom) Montréal en Lumière’s Ferris wheel (p21) out, as well as the directors, PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Monthproducers and writers of the big screen. It’s held over EVA HAMBACH / GETTY IMAGES © 10 days in late August and early September. z Pride Montréal Montréal’s Gay Pride pa- rade (www.fiertemontreal pride.com) is the event on the Village calendar, draw- ing more than a million people, even in slow years. The streets around Pl Émilie-Gamelin pulse with dancing, art exhibits, con- certs and parades. It’s held over one week in August. TONY TREMBLAY / GETTY IMAGES © October Temperatures begin to fall quickly in October as trees put on a spectacular display of color. It’s a perfect time to see the Laurentians and the eastern townships. 3 Festival du Nouveau Cinéma de Montréal This festival (www.nouveau cinema.ca) highlights who is up-and-coming in feature films, documentaries, ex- perimental shorts, videos, narrative features and elec- tronic art forms during 10 days in October. z Black & Blue Festival One of the biggest events for the gay community (www.bbcm.org), with major dance parties, along with cultural and art shows, all in the second week of October.

24 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Flying thrills Children aged four and above can experi- ence the thrill of flying at Skyventure (p141), a unique skydiving simulator. With Kid-Friendly Museums Kids Kids will love Biodôme (p134), a giant Montréal has many sights for indoor zoo with forest, river and marine young visitors. Depending on habitats; or Jardin Botanique’s Insectari- the season, you can go boating, um (p133), with 250,000 specimens creep- biking and skating, or get some ing, crawling or otherwise on display. amusement park or skydiving thrills. On warm days, Parc Enjoy the Planétarium (p134), with Mont-Royal and neighborhood domed theaters and interactive exhibits on parks are great places for picnics outerspace; or take your tots on a virtual and free-spirited outdoor activity. mission to Mars in Cosmodôme (p137), an engaging space center. Circuses At Musée Ferroviaire Canadien (p136) World-renowned Cirque du Soleil (p63) there are trains of every kind – stationary, combines dance, theater and circus in moving, new and old trains that will thrill powerpacked summertime shows. It will adults as much as children. thrill the kids, but is truly for all ages. At Musée Stewart (p68) see oversized For entertaining shows year-round, cannons, military parades and guides in pe- head to TOHU (p136), a circular theater in riod costumes inside an old British garrison. the St-Michel district. Outdoor Fun Hands-On Activities Amusement Park Outdoors At Québec’s largest amusement park, La At the Old Port (p44) you can hop into a Ronde (p68), kids will experience chills paddleboat, go jet boating on the St Law- and thrills galore – plus fireworks on some rence or tootle along in a minitrain for a nights. grand tour. Fun with science Parks & Gardens Enjoy technological wonders, unusual Enormous Parc du Mont-Royal (p101) in games and an IMAX cinema at Centre des the heart of the city is especially fun for Sciences de Montréal (p57). kids in winter, with tobogganing, skiing, snowshoeing and ice-skating. Or try Parc Make a dam and walk on water at Nature du Cap-St-Jacques (p137), a verdant hands-on multimedia museum Biosphère park with trails, a beach, a sugar shack (p68) in Parc Jean-Drapeau. and a working farm. Need to Know ¨¨Babysitting Get a babysitter through SOS Sitter (www.sossitter.ca) or Denise Miller Babysitting Services (%514-365-1704; per hour $20). ¨¨Kid-friendly Restaurants Try Juliette et Chocolat (p93), Romados (p108) or Espace La Fontaine (p109). ¨¨Specialty Resources See Exploring Montréal with Kids (www.montrealwithkids. com).

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25 Visiting Getting to Québec City Québec City Two superhighways link Québec City with Montréal: Hwy 40 north of the St Law- With captivatingly picturesque rence River and Hwy 20 south of the river. old streets and a cliff-top setting Both routes are arrow-straight and easy (if overlooking the St Lawrence boring) to drive, and each takes just over River, North America’s oldest three hours. French-speaking city is a gorgeous, seductive place. An easy excursion A nicer way to travel between the two from Montréal, Québec City has cities is by rail; VIA Rail (www.viarail.ca) enough magnetism to keep you runs four trains daily from Montréal’s occupied for days. Gare Centrale to Québec’s Gare du Palais (three to 3½ hours, one way/return from $87/173). Frequent and economical bus service (three to 3½ hours, one way/return $59/94) is also offered by Orléans Express (www.orleansexpress.com). When to Go Summer is the liveliest time to visit, with a jam-packed events calendar and crowds overflowing the Old Town’s narrow lanes. Québec’s other peak season coincides with Winter Carnival in February. For pleasant weather and smaller crowds, visit in May, September or October. ELIZABETH BEARD / GETTY IMAGES © Québec City Festivals & Events Restaurants in Québec City’s Old Town (p171) Winter Carnival (p198) Spanning 17 days in January/February, the world’s biggest winter carnival features an ice palace, snow sports, parades, ice sculptures, ice canoe races, music and lots of drinking. Fête Nationale du Québec (Festival of John the Baptist; www.fetenationale.quebec) Québec City parties hard on June 24. Originally honoring John the Baptist, this holiday has evolved into a celebration of Québec’s distinct culture. Major festivities take place on the Plains of Abraham. Le Grand Rire (www.grandrire.com) This big June/July comedy fest features everything from stand-up shows to street performances. Festival d’Été (www.infofestival.com) With 300 shows on 10 stages, this 11-day July festival attracts musicians from all over the world. Major acts like the Rolling Stones share the limelight with lesser-known groups from Québec, the Americas, Europe and Africa.

26 PL A N YO U R TRI P V isiti n g Q u é bec C it y Festival d’Opéra de Québec (www.festival Québec City for Kids operaquebec.com) Opera performances are staged throughout the city during this two-week Youngsters go giddy over the ubiquitous festival in late July/early August. street performers and guides in period Les Grands Feux Loto-Québec (www.les costume, the uniformed soldiers beating grandsfeux.com) Spectacular fireworks light the the retreat at the Citadelle (p169) and skies above the St Lawrence River on Wednesday the antique cannons sprinkled around and Saturday nights during this three-week Battlefields Park (p181). Walking the August festival. Jazz, opera and other musical Fortifications (p171) or rampaging down events are also scheduled. the pedestrian-friendly Terrasse Dufferin Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France (www.nouvelle (p171) helps get the wiggles out, while a france.qc.ca) This five-day festival in August slow tour of the Old Town in a calèche commemorates Québec’s colonial period with (horse-drawn carriage) appeals to the historical re-enactments and period costumes. whole family. Fête Arc-en-Ciel (www.arcencielquebec.ca) Québec City’s Gay Pride celebrations span five In winter, children will be mesmerized days in September. by the toboggan run on Terrasse Dufferin, Festival International des Musiques the ice palace, ice slides, snow tubing and Sacrées de Québec (Québec City Internation- dog-sledding at Winter Carnival (p198), al Sacred Music Festival) This September festival the whimsically decorated rooms at the showcases everything from gospel to Gregorian Ice Hotel (p207), the outdoor ice-skating chants. rinks at Place d’Youville (p202) and the Plains of Abraham, and the engaging Top Sights historical dress-ups at the Musée de la Place-Royale (p179). Outside the center, In Québec City, just walking down the kids also love the polar-bear, walrus street is an aesthetic treat. The city’s his- and sea-lion shows at the Aquarium du toric core is unlike anyplace else in North Québec (p184). America, with hundreds of gorgeous mansard-roofed old stone buildings clus- Eating tered inside a perfect frame of crenellated town walls. Québec’s dramatic cliffside Dozens of boulangeries (bakeries) and setting enhances its appeal, with picture- patisseries, such as Paillard (p184) and Le postcard views of the St Lawrence River Croquembouche (p192), dazzle the eyes unfolding from the Terrasse Dufferin and taste buds with perfect croissants and boardwalk (p171), and scenic stairways abundant, beautiful displays of éclairs, connecting the Upper and Lower Towns. strawberry tarts and chocolatines (pain au chocolat). For other affordable French- The most memorable sight for first-time inspired treats, sample the quiches and visitors is the castlelike Château Frontenac savory snacks at traiteurs (delis) along Ave (p170), dominating the Upper Town from its Cartier or the crêperies along Rue St-Jean, lofty perch. The city also boasts a fine col- or head to the lively Marché du Vieux lection of museums, most notably the Musée Port (p199), where purveyors of artisanal National des Beaux-Arts du Québec (p182) cheeses and sausages mingle with farm- and the eclectic Musée de la Civilisation ers selling fresh produce from nearby Île (p179). History buffs will love Québec’s 19th- d’Orléans. If it’s fine cuisine you’re after, century hilltop Citadelle (p169) and two prepare to be spoiled at top-of-the-line museums offering graphic representations restaurants such as Panache (p190) and Le of the battles between France and Britain Saint-Amour (p188), classy brunch hang- for control of the city. Just outside the town outs like Café du Clocher Penché (p193), walls, the vast Battlefields Park (p181) is or trendy bistros like Toast! (p190) and ideal for cycling, cross-country skiing, snow- L’Échaudé (p189). shoeing and other outdoor activities.

27 Drinking & Nightlife with shops offering one-of-a-kind items PL A N YO U R TRI P V isiti n g Q u é bec C it y with a distinctly French-Canadian flavor. From top-notch microbreweries to outdoor Striking an equally retro note, North Amer- stalls selling the potent wintertime elixir ica’s oldest grocery store, JA Moisan Épicier known as caribou, Québec City is a fine (p200), is another browser’s delight. On the place to drink up some local color. Raise cobblestone sidewalks below Château Fron- a frosty glass (literally, it’s made of ice!) tenac, artisans spread out jewelry, leather beside the roaring fireplace at the city’s goods and other handicrafts, while trendy incomparable Ice Hotel (p207), quench homegrown boutiques abound in the less your midsummer thirst with the eight-beer touristy St-Jean Baptiste, Montcalm and sampler at La Barberie (p195), get cozy in St-Roch neighborhoods. Kids will love the an ancient stone cellar at L’Oncle Antoine miniature entryway built especially for (p194), or sunbathe on the outdoor terraces them at the jam-packed toy emporium at Le Sacrilège (p194) and l’Inox (p195). Benjo (p201), and fashionistas will swoon When it’s time to move on, dance the night over everything from designer shoes to the away at a cluster of renovated mansions- outrageous glasses frames produced by turned-discos on Grande-Allée, catch the Québecois designer Anne-Marie Faniel. eclectic mix of shows at Le Cercle (p197) in St-Roch, or check out Le Drague (p194), Sleeping the lively center of Québec City’s gay and lesbian scene. Québec City is loaded with atmospheric places to spend the night. Top draws in- Entertainment clude the river-view rooms in the iconic Château Frontenac (p207) and the plethora Entertainment here is a year-round propo- of mansions-turned-B&Bs lining the pretty sition. Grand Théâtre de Québec (p196) Jardin des Gouverneurs, such as Château and Le Théâtre Capitole (p196) offer vener- Fleur-de-Lys (p206). Other peak sleeping able settings for drama, classical music experiences include chilling out in a fur- and other high culture, while bars around lined sleeping bag on a bed of ice at the town host everything from Québecois bal- city’s famous Ice Hotel (p207); enjoying the lads with fiddle and accordion to live rock, homey, high-ceilinged charm and private alternative music and jazz. kitchen facilities at Les Lofts 1048 (p206); bedding down above the century-old In summer, outdoor music venues pop Théâtre Capitole (p210); savoring river up like mushrooms, including Kiosque views and classy in-house restaurants at Edwin-Bélanger (p196) on the Plains of the Old Lower Town’s cluster of boutique Abraham and the 10 stages dedicated to hotels, or economizing at two well-located world music performances during Festi- hostels in the Old Upper Town. val d’Été (p25). Summer entertainment also spills onto the streets, with jugglers, Parlez-vous Français? acrobats, fire-eaters and street musicians setting up shop on street corners around Québecers, like Montrealérs, grow up town. studying English, but because the anglo- phone minority in Québec is so tiny, they Shopping rarely use it outside the major tourist areas. Most city residents are fully bilin- In keeping with the city’s historic nature, gual, but if you stray into the surrounding Québec is an antique-lover’s paradise. Rue countryside, you’ll quickly find that French St-Paul in the Lower Town is crammed is the province’s official language.

28 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Eating Montréal is one of the great foodie destinations of the north. Here you’ll find an outstanding assortment of classic French cuisine, hearty Québecois fare and countless ethnic restaurants from 80-odd nationalities. Today’s haute cuisine is as likely to be conjured by talented young Italian, Japanese or British chefs as graduates from the Académie Culinaire du Québec. Neighborhoods a few. Outdoor markets carry exotic food- Montréal has more eating choices per capita stuffs that weren’t available even a decade than anywhere in North America except for ago alongside tasty produce from local farms. New York City. The dining scene is marked by dazzling variety and quality, and brash chefs Residents argue heatedly over which who attack their creations with innovation. places serve the best of anything – chewy Life in Montréal revolves around food, and bagels, espresso, comfort soup, fluffy omelets it’s as much about satisfying your sensual or creamy cakes. Montréal smoked meat and fantasies as it is about nourishment. bagels, of course, have a formidable reputa- tion that stretches across the country and are Nearly every neighborhood has culinary a constant source of friendly rivalry with New stars, which makes for rewarding dining no Yorkers. Montréal loyalists insist the secret matter where you wander. Downtown and to the hometown bagel’s success is all in the Plateau Mont-Royal are a diner’s nirvana, time-tested preparation. linked by arteries Blvd St-Laurent and Rue St-Denis. ‘The Main,’ as locals call Blvd St- A popular-yet-controversial component of Laurent, teems with trendy establishments Montréal cuisine is foie gras, a food product but shades into the alternative as you move made from the fattened livers of ducks or north. Still in the Plateau, Rue Prince-Arthur geese. The production of foie gras involves Est and Ave Duluth Est are popular for their force-feeding the animals via a feeding tube, good-time BYOB (bring-your-own-bottle) often in amounts far exceeding what they places. Mile End and Outremont have a wide would eat voluntarily. Animal welfare groups selection of bistros and ethnic fare, with argue that the process is cruel and inhumane, new places popping up all the time. The key and the production and import of foie gras streets here are Ave Laurier, Ave St-Viateur is banned in several countries around the and Rue Bernard. Head to Little Italy for world. great Italian trattorias along Blvd St-Laurent and Rue Dante. Or find award-winning res- More than Poutine taurants hidden down cobblestone streets in Traditional Québecois cuisine is classic com- atmospheric Old Montréal. fort food, heavy and centered on meat. The fact that the ingredients are basic is said Specialties to be a historical legacy, as French settlers Montréalers enjoy an enormous variety of only had access to limited produce. A classic locally produced ingredients and delicacies: Québecois meal might center on game meat raw cheeses, game and maple syrup, to name (caribou, duck, wild boar) or the tourtière, a meat pie usually made with pork and another meat such as beef or veal along with celery

29 PLAN YOUR TRIP EATINGNEED TO KNOW MAGALIE L’ABBà / GETTY IMAGES © Price Range In our listings we’ve used the following price codes to represent the average cost of a main meal: $ under $16 $$ $16 to $30 $$$ over $30 Poutine (p30) Opening Hours & Meal Times ¨¨Restaurants open 11:30am to 2:30pm and onions. Another favorite lowbrow sta- and 5:30pm to 10pm. Many places close ple is poutine (fries smothered in cheese on Monday. curds and gravy), with inventive versions ¨¨Breakfast cafes open around 8am. served across the city. ¨¨On weekends two dinner sittings are common at 5:30pm to 6pm and 8pm to The city has a fine choice of French food, 8:30pm. Places fill up from 8pm. with bistros and brasseries of all types and price ranges. Many incorporate the best of Reservations Québec’s produce and market ingredients. Reserve on weekends to avoid disap- pointment. During the week you needn’t For local recipes and tips on mastering book unless the place is popular (or the great dishes of the province, pick up the formal). Most budget eateries don’t take cookbook The Art of Living According to reservations. Joe Beef (2011) by Frederic Morin et al. How Much? Paying Dining out in Montréal doesn’t have to be Credit and debit cards widely accepted. costly. On average, a multicourse dinner for Some restaurants accept cash only. two (including a glass of wine, taxes and a tip) at a midrange place will cost about $80 Tipping to $120. At the city’s more famous establish- A tip of 15% of the pretax bill is customary ments, expect to pay about twice that for a in restaurants. Your bill will show the total multicourse meal. At the other end of the with tax in bold. Some waiters may add a scale, you can eat delicious fare at casual service charge for large parties; in these spots – vegetarian cafes, Jewish delis and cases, don’t pay a tip unless service was down-market ethnic eateries – for less than extraordinary. $40 for two people. Websites Keep an eye out for the table d’hôte, a ¨¨The Main MTL (www.themainmtl.com) fixed-price meal – usually three or four ¨¨Montréal Eater (www.montreal.eater. courses – that can be a good way to sam- com) ple the chef’s top dishes of the day. Prices ¨¨Shut Up & Eat (www.shutupandeat.ca) start at around $20. Some restaurants ¨¨Eating out in Montréal (www.eating offer a discount menu for late dining (usu- outinmontreal.blogspot.com) ally starting at 10pm), while others have a policy of apportez votre vin, or bring your Food Markets & Groceries own wine. There’s rarely a corkage fee, so For a slice of old-world Europe, don’t miss take advantage of this. Montréal’s sprawling food markets. You’ll find a staggering selection of fruits, vegeta- Taxes amounting to 15% apply at all bles, fresh bakery items, cheeses and more. restaurants. Most don’t include the taxes in It’s also a chance to interact with the proud their menu prices, but check the fine print. farmers, butchers and cheesemakers behind these tasty provisions. The big markets have plenty of stands selling prepared foods

PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING30 POUTINE! Broach the topic of poutine with a native Montréaler, and either a look of utter rapture or vomitous disgust will likely cross the face of your interlocutor. One of the world’s most humble dishes, poutine was invented in rural Québec sometime in the 1950s. Accord- ing to legend, a restaurateur experienced an epiphany while waiting on a customer who ordered fries while waiting for his cheese curds. The word poutine itself derives from an Acadian slang term for ‘mushy mess’ or ‘pudding.’ For the uninitiated, poutine at first glance looks like the leftovers from a large dinner party all slopped into one giant pile, scraped onto a plate and plunked down on the table. While recipes and imaginations run wild when it comes to poutine, the basic building block of the Québecois dish is fries smothered in cheese curds and gravy. Varieties in- clude ‘all dress’ (sautéed mushrooms and bell peppers), ‘richie boy’ (ground beef), Italian (beef and spaghetti sauce), barbecue or even smoked meat. In the past, going out for poutine had about as much sex appeal as chowing down on boiled hot dogs and tap wa- ter; these days, however, even exalted restaurants such as Au Pied de Cochon serve the well-known dish. ¨¨La Banquise (p107) Serving 25 different types of poutine round the clock, this is the gold standard for classic poutine. ¨¨Au Pied de Cochon (p111) Changes the simple dish with the addition of foie gras (for information about foie gras, see p28). ¨¨L’Gros Luxe (p110) Serves a good vegetarian option, as well as filling options topped with bacon, pulled pork or fish and chips. ¨¨Patati Patata (p108) The house special is Patat-ine, with cheese curds served in an edible crispy potato basket. (crepes, smoothies, coffees, pastries, sand- Eating by Neighborhood wiches, pizza slices and more). ¨¨Old Montréal The old-world setting, rooftop The biggest market is Marché Jean- patios and some of the best restaurants in town Talon (p118) in Little Italy. Runner-up are irresistible. Chinatown is next door. (p57) Marché Atwater (p77), just west of down- ¨¨Parc Jean-Drapeau Has very limited eating town near the Canal de Lachine, is a fine options. Plan to eat meals elsewhere or bring a spot for a picnic. If you’re wandering picnic with you. (p69) around the Village or the Quartier Latin, ¨¨Downtown Loads of great options, from photogenic Marché St-Jacques (p100) is inexpensive ethnic fare to stylish dining rooms, a slice of Montréal history; a market has hidden down the backstreets. (p79) stood here since the 1870s. ¨¨Quartier Latin & the Village Best for brasseries and bohemian cafes, as well as great Blvd St-Laurent in Plateau Mont-Royal, budget eats. (p93) between Ave des Pins and Ave Mont-Royal, ¨¨Plateau Mont-Royal Cosmopolitan and hip, is renowned for ethnic food shops. Little with excellent dining options in all price ranges. Italy has small groceries and deli shops (p107) on Blvd St-Laurent, a few blocks south of ¨¨Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont One of the Rue Jean-Talon. For a journey to the Far best food destinations in the city; has everything East, wander through Chinatown; you’ll from bagels to market-based fine dining. (p118) find tea shops, Asian groceries and loads ¨¨Southwest & Outer Montréal The city’s outer of eateries. districts are off the beaten path for foodies, but have a few distant gems. (p137)

31 Lonely Planet’s Impasto (p123) The new Best Bakeries PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING Top Choices darling in town, with fantastic Italian cooking. Patrice (p79) Superb Garde-Manger (p59) pastries and cakes. Celebrated Old Montréal haunt Best for Breakfast Alati-Caserta (p123) Old- with a festive vibe. school family-owned bakery in Joe Beef (p81) Creative Arts Cafe (p118) Market- Little Italy. meats and seafood, excellent fresh ingredients and delicious Hof Kelsten (p109) The wines and knowledgeable staff. recipes in an artful setting. St-Laurent spot for pastries, Au Pied de Cochon (p111) L’Avenue (p110) A buzzing sandwiches and soups. Offers foie-gras poutine. spot for Eggs Benedict and thick Kouign Amman (p108) Fa- L’Express (p110) Captivating smoothies. mous for its Breton butter cake. Parisian-style bistro. La Croissanterie Figaro Olive + Gourmando (p58) (p120) The best place to Best for Atmosphere Delicious baked goods and linger over coffee and warm outstanding lunch fare. croissants. Barroco (p59) Stone walls, candles, great cocktails and Best by Budget Best for Small Plates market-fresh fare. Bremner (p60) Beautiful $ Le Vin Papillon (p80) plates served in a buzzing Inventive tapas plates and great subterranean dining den. Satay Brothers (p79) Asian wines. street food and fusion in a color- Orange Rouge (p61) Crea- Best Cafes ful setting. tive Asian cooking tucked down L’Gros Luxe (p110) Dine in style a quiet Chinatown lane. Cafe Aunja (p80) Peaceful (and on a budget) in the Plateau. Tapas, 24 (p60) The city’s art-filled spot in downtown. Kazu (p79) Ramen noodles best tapas, from Catalan star Moineau Masqué (p109) and Japanese comfort food. Carles Abellán. Great neighborhood cafe with Hà (p110) Brilliant Vietnam- outdoor seating. $$ ese dishes take center stage. Cafe Névé (p109) Well-loved Plateau cafe with perfect lattes Foodlab (p80) Creative, Best Vegetarian and snacks. ever-changing small plates atop a media and arts center. Lola Rosa (p79) McGill Best of Classic Le Serpent (p58) Nicely favorite with lasagna, curries Montréal turned out plates in a minimalist and Tex-Mex. setting. La Panthère Verte (p118) Schwartz’s (p107) Long- La Sala Rosa (p110) Spanish Casual spot with great salads running Jewish deli serving the cuisine in a festive, culturally and sandwiches. best smoked meat on earth. minded space. Invitation V (p121) Creative La Banquise (p107) A must Café Parvis (p80) Industrial vegan fare in a posh setting. for poutine lovers (and the style and delicious salads and merely curious). pizzas. Best Teahouses Beauty’s (p108) Old-school 1950s-style diner. $$$ Camellia Sinensis (p100) St-Viateur Bagel (p121) A tea-lover’s paradise with Fires up some of the city’s best Toqué! (p60) Innovative hundreds of varieties. bagels. cuisine and a fantastic tasting Cardinal Tea Room (p120) Gibeau Orange Julep (p137) menu. Sip from fine porcelain in an Make a pilgrimage to the great Le Filet (p111) Delectable elegant upstairs hideaway. orange ball. seafood plates by a celebrated chef.

LONNIE KISHIYAMA / GETTY IMAGES © Le Saint Sulpice (p98), Montréal Drinking & Nightlife Montréalers love a good drink. Maybe it’s the European influence: this is a town where it’s perfectly acceptable, even expected, to begin cocktail hour after work and continue well into the night. On a sunny Friday afternoon, the cinq-à-sept (traditional 5pm to 7pm happy hour) often becomes cinq-à- last-call. Nightlife Bars Montréal nightlife is the stuff of legend; it’s Montréalers treat their bars like a second a vibrant, exciting and ever-evolving scene home, unwinding after work for the legend- on the cutting edge of international trends. ary cinq-à-sept happy hour on Thursdays That’s why touring bands and DJs rave about and Fridays, quaffing wine, beer and cocktails Montréal audiences. From underground until the wee hours. In late spring and sum- dance clubs to French hip-hop, dub reggae to mer this is often done on a rooftop patio as breakbeat, comedy shows to supper clubs and temperatures rise. Come winter, Montréal- the still-exciting Anglo indie rock so hyped ers are undaunted by snowstorms and long, of late, Montréal after dark holds something frigid nights. In fact, that’s the best time to for everyone. You just have to know where find a warm, cozy bar (preferably with a roar- to look.

33 ing fire) and while the night away among NEED TO KNOW PLAN YOUR TRIP DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE friends and a few creative libations. Practicalities COCKTAILS ¨¨The legal drinking age in the province of Québec is 18. The cocktail craze has swept through Mon- ¨¨Buy alcohol from the government- tréal and many bars have elevated the hum- run liquor stores all over town: Societé ble mixed drink to a work of art, blending des Alcools du Québec (SAQ). Opening housemade syrups, high-quality ingredients hours vary, but dépanneurs (corner and top-shelf liquors. Le Lab (p111), in the stores) sell wine and beer until 11pm. Plateau, was one of the first bars to lead the Some supermarkets sell alcohol. mixology madness, with skilled bartenders designing a menu of creative cocktails. Opening Hours ¨¨Bars open around 5pm and close by Brewpubs 3am. Locals have always been fond of good beer. ¨¨Clubs typically open around 10pm But the microbrewery scene has picked (some open only Thurday to Saturday). up momentum in recent years, with the ¨¨Pubs, bistros, cafes and other estab- opening of excellent, creative brewpubs lishments have varied opening hours; across town. The most famous is Dieu du check websites. Ciel (p123) in Mile End, a must-visit for anyone who remotely likes beer. You’ll find Tipping daring beers among the growing roster of It’s common to tip 15% of your bill, or be- microbreweries – some successful, some tween $1 and $2 for each drink you order. not. The settings have evolved too, from sudsy beer halls to brew spots with vintage Costs style, industrial fixtures, reclaimed lumber You can often find midweek specials; bars, exposed Edison bulbs and flickering some will waive cover before 11pm. Admis- candles. sion can be as low as $5 or free, but ex- pect to pay $10 to $15 in larger clubs. Drinking & Dining Wherever you go to drink, food is likely Tickets & Guest Lists to be a part of the experience. You might Lining up in freezing temperatures can be come across oysters, fish tacos, gourmet a real drag, so check club websites for a poutine, foie gras (see p28) or even tartare chance to get on the guest list, to reserve de cheval (raw horsemeat), along with the tables, or get advance tickets to events. usual assortment of frites (fries), moules (mussels) and bistro bites. Dress Code Nearly all clubs and bars in the city have a Likewise, some of Montréal’s best restau- relaxed dress code. rants also serve great cocktails, and a party crowd tends to arrive late in the evening at Websites some places, such as Garde-Manger (p59), ¨¨Nightlife.ca (www.nightlife.ca) as the focus shifts from food to drink. ¨¨The Main MTL (www.themainmtl.com) ¨¨MTL Blog (www.mtlblog.com) Cafes Coffee is big here, and most locals start the certs and parties (including raves) depends day with strong, espresso-based drinks at on who’s putting it on (and the talent on their neighborhood cafes. It’s not uncom- the bill), rather than the location. Beloved mon for artists, students and self-employed party brands throw events regularly, while types to spend days hanging out at their indie concert promoters book shows of all favorite cafes, laptops in tow. Many places musical genres virtually every night. You roast their own beans, and you can buy can catch big names and local up-and- fair-trade and specialty blends in shops comers before they top the charts. around town. Clubbing & After-Hours While established events and club nights have a following, the appeal of one-off con-

34 PLAN YOUR TRIP DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE QUÉBEC’S TOP ARTISANAL BEERS Dieu du Ciel From its Mile End location in Montréal, this microbrewery cranks out a su- perb selection of beers. A perennial favorite is the Moralité, an American-style IPA. Unibroue Fin du Monde (End of the World) is a triple-fermented monster with 9% alcohol that more than lives up to its name; La Maudite (the Damned) is a rich, spicy beer that clocks in a close second at 8%; Blanche de Chambly is a light wheat ale. McAuslan Brewing Keep an eye out for its apricot wheat ale and especially its St-Ambroise oatmeal stout and St-Ambroise Pale Ale. L’Alchimiste This Joliette-based brewer (about 60km northeast of Montréal) turns out a stable of different brews but its Bock de Joliette, an amber beer, is the star of the bunch. Les Trois Mousquetaires Based in Brossard (across the St Lawrence River to the south- east of Montréal), this small brewery’s Baltic Porter has won awards overseas for its bold taste. Charlevoix This microbrewery in Baie St Paul (95km north of Québec City) makes excel- lent Belgian-style beers as well as a creamy imperial milk stout and an unusual Domus Vobiscum Brut, a so-called ‘champagne de bière’ made in the traditional champagne fermenting method. Blvd St-Laurent and Rue St-Denis are ¨¨Downtown Rue Crescent is très touristy but the two main club strips, with Rue Ste- vibrant bars hide among mainstream options. Catherine in the Village housing a strip of Along Notre-Dame Ouest at Rue Charlevoix is a gay clubs. Fancier clubs have selective door satellite downtown eating and drinking scene. policies and cover charges, but anything (p82) goes at most underground spots. Things ¨¨Quartier Latin & the Village Frenetic Rue tend to start late (after midnight) and close St-Denis packs in students with pubs and patio at 3am, but Montréal’s after-hours scene beer pitchers. Along Rue Ste-Catherine Est, the is very happening, with clubs, plus private Village has buzzing bars and gay clubs. (p95) warehouse and loft parties; they don’t serve ¨¨Plateau Mont-Royal Along Blvd St-Laurent alcohol but are made for dancing and all- is a major anglophone bar scene, with drunk night club experiences. 20-somethings (and police to keep order). Bars get more sophisticated along Aves Roy and Drinking & Nightlife by Mont-Royal. (p111) Neighborhood ¨¨Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont From hipster cafes to whiskey lounges, here you’ll find ¨¨Old Montréal Amid posh lounges and DJ bars some of the most interesting drinking options. is a mix of local scenesters, the fashion crowd Several cluster around Ave Laurier and Rue and 30s to 40s mob, who have more money to Beaubien. (p123) spend. (p61)

35 Lonely Planet’s Best Clubs Benelux (p82) Excellent PLAN YOUR TRIP DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Top Choices rotating selection of brews near Stereo (p98) A mecca for Place des Arts. Apt 200 (p111) Great space lovers of house music. Le Cheval Blanc (p95) Easy- with ample amusement (pool, La Porte Rouge (p112) Up- going spot near the Quartier arcade games, good drinks, scale partying in the Plateau. Latin, with an outdoor patio. people-watching). Datcha (p126) Fun and fog- Dieu du Ciel (p123) Fantastic filled dance club in Mile End. Best for Sport microbrews, all made in house. Velvet (p62) Uber-hip club Philémon (p61) Rip it up beneath an 18th-century stone Chez Serge (p126) Festive with great club beats and a huge cottage. Mile End bar that’s wild for bar in a heritage space. Luwan (p63) Youthful party- hockey. Le Confessionnal (p62) minded club in Chinatown. Café Olimpico (p120) Italian Sinfully tempting cocktails and cafe that shows the big games a fun crowd in Old Montréal. Best Gay Bars & (like European league football). Majestique (p112) Great Clubs Hurley’s Irish Pub (p83) cocktails, excellent bites and a A cozy space for watching a dash of style. Club Date Piano-Bar (p98) game or catching a bit of fiddlin’ Sing your heart out in this Vil- action on the back stage. Best Pubs lage saloon. Sky Pub & Club (p98) A full Best Cocktails Dominion Square Tavern night of amusement with dance (p82) Gorgeous old-world floors and roof terrace. Le Lab (p111) Cocktail tavern; a fine setting for a drink Circus (p98) A massive wizardry in a stylish setting in (or a bite). after-hours club with a celebra- the Plateau. Burgundy Lion (p82) Trendy tory crowd. Le Mal Necessaire (p63) British-style pub near the Unity (p98) A three-story Tasty libations stirred up in a Marché Atwater. Village favorite. hidden Chinatown drinking den. Sir Winston Churchill (p83) La Distillerie (p111) East A downtown anchor on bar-lined Best Lounges Plateau charmer; its huge range Rue Crescent. of drinks is served in Mason jars. Bleury Bar à Vinyle (p82) B1 Bar (p95) Cozy basement Best Terraces DJs and the occasional live band space with well-made, unpreten- in a small downtown den. tious cocktails. Terrasse Nelligan (p62) Baldwin Barmacie (p126) Big in Japan (p111) Magical Great spot for a sundowner with This apothecary-themed lounge sitting for a fancy drink. views over Old Montréal. in Mile End is pure eye candy. SuWu (p112) Easygoing spot Terrasse Place d’Armes with a friendly vibe and good (p62) An open-air rooftop Best Brewpubs bar food. bar that draws a stylish crowd. Le Saint Sulpice (p98) The Isle de Garde (p126) A Little Best Wine Bars outdoor garden is a great spot Italy gem with great beer and a on warm days in the Quartier friendly crowd. Pullman (p82) Exten- Latin. Vice Versa (p126) Easy-going sive wine list and buzzing Pub Ste-Élisabeth (p83) A beer bar with a good selection of early-evening gathering spot in downtown favorite for its lush Québecois quaffs. downtown. courtyard. Les Soeurs Grises (p62) A La Buvette Chez Simone classy brasserie in Old Montréal. (p123) The best place in town for wine and small plates. Le Vin Papillon (p80) Much lauded new wine-focused eatery.

GEORGE PIMENTEL / GETTY IMAGES © The Kinsey Sicks (kinseysicks.com) at Montréal’s Just for Laughs Festival (p38) Entertainment Montréal is Canada’s unofficial arts capital, with both French and English theater, dance, classical and jazz music, and all sorts of interesting blends of the above on stage virtually every night of the week. The city’s bilingualism makes it creatively unique and encourages creative collaborations and cross-pollinations that light up the performing-arts scene. Live Rock, Pop, Jazz & Blues There are dozens of concerts on every Montréal is a music powerhouse, fostering an week at bars, clubs and concert halls. During incredible variety of talent from cabaret pop summer, major music festivals such as Oshea- stars such as Patrick Watson to Leonard Co- ga showcase big-name bands that bring fans hen and jazz legends such as Oscar Peterson. from around the globe. Check local listings The underground and indie music commu- for details and try to buy tickets in advance. nity has many venues in which to catch rising stars, such as Casa del Popolo, while major Performance Power acts from elsewhere in Canada and overseas While the city is small compared to other perform at the Bell Centre or occasionally at artistic capitals (such as New York and special venues like the Stade Olympique. London), Montréal boasts some world-class companies renowned on the international

37 circuit: a symphony orchestra, the Orches- NEED TO KNOW PLAN YOUR TRIP ENTERTAINMENT tre Symphonique de Montréal; an opera, Opéra de Montréal; and a ballet company, Tickets Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal. ¨¨Book tickets well in advance for live And don’t forget Cirque du Soleil, the magi- performances. cal, Québec-born circus of dance, music ¨¨Purchase tickets for concerts, shows and acrobatics that forever changed the art and festivals from the venue box office, form. Speaking of circuses, Montréal has or call Admission (www.admission.com; its own year-round dedicated circus-arts %514-790-1245), Ticketmaster (www. venue. TOHU, in the St-Michel district, ticketmaster.ca; %514-790-1111) or Evenko hosts an eclectic lineup of shows and circus (www.evenko.ca). events, with both homegrown groups and ¨¨Beware of buying from touts outside international acts. event venues on the night of a perfor- mance. Try to check with other attend- Film Hub ees whether you’re buying a genuine The presence of Québec’s large French- ticket and not a forgery. language film and TV industry, and US ¨¨General admission to mainstream productions that shoot here, have made the movie theaters such as Cineplex is picturesque city a hotbed of film and TV around $12 or $13. Some art-house production. Especially during spring and theaters have discounted times and summer, you’re likely to see movie shoots days. Ex-Centris (p113) has lower on downtown streets and Hollywood stars prices ($10) for tickets on weekdays nonchalantly roaming around – they may before 5pm; Cinéma du Parc (p84) show up in unexpected places. has $8 deals on Tuesdays. ¨¨Daily newspapers Montreal Gazette Cinemas and French-language La Presse are Montréal has its share of multiplex cin- great resources for arts and culture list- emas, but many also include foreign or ings, as is the free French weekly Voir. independent films in their repertoire. More interesting are the several independ- Websites ent movie houses and repertory theaters. ¨¨Nightlife.ca (www.nightlife.ca) The Cinema Montréal website (www. ¨¨Festival International de Jazz de cinemamontreal.com) is excellent, with Montréal (www.montrealjazzfest.com) reviews and details of discount admissions. ¨¨Cirque du Soleil (www.cirquedusoleil. The repertory houses offer double bills com) and midnight movies on weekends. These ¨¨La Scena (www.scena.org) cinemas are sometimes cheaper than the ¨¨Tourisme Montréal (www.tourisme- chains showing first-run films. montreal.org/what-to-do/events) ¨¨33mag (www.33mag.com) Film Festivals Montréal has so many film festivals that it’s Fantasia Film Fest (www.festivalfantasia.com) hard to keep track. The mainstays are Mon- This leading genre festival in July and August tréal World Film Festival (p90) and Festival features works from Asia and appeals to the manga-loving otaku (geek) set. du Nouveau Cinéma de Montréal (%514- 282-0004; www.nouveaucinema.ca). Montréal Stop-Motion Film Festival (www. Les Rendez-Vous du Cinéma Québecois stopmotionmontreal.com) In late September (www.rvcq.com) In the second half of February, or early October, fans of stop-motion animation this event showcases the best of Québecois film. gather to see painstakingly crafted works. Festival International du Film sur l’Art Cinemania (www.festivalcinemania.com) This (www.artfifa.com) A March festival devoted to November festival features films from French- films and documentaries about art from all over speaking countries, all subtitled in English for the world. non-native speakers. Vues d’Afrique (www.vuesdafrique.org) Held in late April and early May, this growing festival celebrates films about Africa.

38 PERRY MASTROVITO / GETTY IMAGES © theatrical touring dance company Cirque Eloize (www.cirque-eloize.com). The fact that Canada’s National Circus School (www.eco lenationaledecirque.ca) is based here certainly helps feed fresh, unconventional talent into the dance and performing-arts scene. Crowds at the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal (p225) Comedy With so many potholes in its roads, long Dance winters and a multiethnic brew, humor Considered Canada’s dance capital, Mon- comes naturally to Montréal. In July, the tréal boasts an avant-garde and extremely city plays host to the world’s largest com- vibrant dance scene. These days styles such edy festival – homegrown Just For Laughs as ballet, modern, jazz, hip-hop, Latin social (www.hahaha.com). The laugh-fest has been dancing and tango exist side by side with going strong for 30 years, attracting top cutting-edge contemporary dance that fuses comics such as Lewis Black, Jerry Seinfeld, various styles and incorporates theater, Dave Chappelle, John Cleese and Jon Stew- music and digital art. Montréal is home to art, and even exporting itself to Toronto, many internationally renowned companies, Chicago and Sydney. such as Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal (www.grandsballets.com), La La La When Just For Laughs isn’t on, you can Human Steps (www.lalalahumansteps.com), O still get knee-slapping laughs at dedicated Vertigo Danse (www.overtigo.com), Tangente venues in the city. Comedy Nest (www. (www.tangente.qc.ca), Les Ballets Jazz De comedynest.com) specializes in stand-up and Montréal (www.bjmdanse.ca) and the popular open-mic nights. Improv specialty venue Montréal Improv (www.montrealimprov.com) has free classes for those who want to be funnier. Spoken Word The spoken-word scene is quite popular in Montréal, often linked to the hip-hop community. Some of the most exciting and interesting stuff is being done on university campuses. Since these events tend to move around from bar to bar, it’s best to check out the bulletin boards or flyers at McGill or Concordia Universities where new and underground performances are regularly announced. Venues such as Divan Orange also hold spoken-word events, and hip-hop crews and improvisational music collectives such as Kalmunity (www.kalmunity.wix.com) organize special spoken-word and improv events. Throw Collective (www.throwcollective. com) is a poetry-based collective that holds a monthly poetry slam and other events.

39 Lonely Planet’s Place des Arts (p83) Best Theater & PLAN YOUR TRIP ENTERTAINMENT Top Choices Free outdoor concerts during Cabaret Jazzfest. Place des Arts (p83) L’Astral (p83) A larger jazz- Centaur Theatre (p63) Top Performing-arts complex, home focused music space near Place English-language performances to everything from jazz to ballet des Arts. in a memorable Old Montréal and opera. Upstairs (p83) A downtown locale. Casa del Popolo (p113) One gem with an outdoor terrace. Monument National (p84) of the best indie-music venues House of Jazz (p83) A Showcases theater, dance and in the city. mainstream downtown jazz comedy in a grand 19th-century Usine C (p99) Former indus- club that’s been going strong building. trial space hosting innovative for years. Théâtre St-Denis (p99) avant-garde theater and dance. Touring Broadway shows, mu- Théâtre St-Denis (p99) Best Cinemas sicals and other big-production Century-old venue hosting fare. everything from comedy to rock Ex-Centris Cinema (p113) Cabaret Mado (p99) Up- and theater. Great indie and world cinema on roarious drag shows in the heart Cinémathèque Québécoise St-Laurent. of the gay Village. (p99) Focused on avant- Cinéma du Parc (p84) Cult Théâtre Ste-Catherine garde and Québecois features. classics and indie films as well (p100) Drama, comedy and a as new releases. wide variety of cultural fare. Best Classical Music Cinéma Banque Scotia Mon- Théâtre Outremont (p127) & Opera tréal (p84) High-tech movie Restored 1920s concert hall screens and IMAX theater. with an excellent lineup of Orchestre Symphonique de Cinéma IMAX du Centre des music, dance and film. Montréal (p84) Outstanding Sciences de Montréal (p63) repertoire with performances 3D IMAX films down in the Old Best for Dance inside the high-tech Maison Port. Symphonique de Montréal on Les Grands Ballets Canadiens Place des Arts. Best Live Rock & de Montréal (p84) Dazzling Orchestre Métropolitain Pop Venues performances from one of Cana- (p85) A first-rate orchestra da’s best dance companies. that plays in Place des Arts and Metropolis (p84) A 2300- Agora de la Danse (p113) around the city. seat downtown venue that hosts Features eclectic and ex- Opéra de Montréal (p85) big-name bands. perimental artists and dance Good, sometimes spectacular Club Soda (p83) An icon troupes. productions; a must for opera of the music scene, featuring fans. bands from around the globe. Circus Arts I Musici de Montréal (p85) Le Divan Orange (p113) A A 12-member chamber ensem- creative venue in the Plateau TOHU (p136) Great place to ble that plays all over town. that hosts a range of indie see creative groups from around sounds. the globe. Best for Jazz Foufounes Électriques Old Port (p63) The summer- (p87) An edgy St-Catherine time venue for Cirque de Soleil. Dièse Onze (p113) Atmos- venue for punk, metal and rock. pheric basement jazz den in the Plateau.

40 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Shopping Style is synonymous with Montréal living. The city itself is beautiful and locals live up to the standard it sets. Maybe it’s that much-touted European influence, but most Montréalers seem to instinctively lead stylish lives regardless of income level, enjoying aesthetic pleasures such as food, art and, of course, fashion. Fashion City Warehouse sales, featuring big reductions on Montréal is Canada’s unofficial fashion capi- old stock (with savings of 50% to 90%), are tal and many of the country’s most talented another draw. and internationally successful designers have roots here. Locally based lines include Frank When it comes to fashion, bargain hunters & Oak, Denis Gagnon, Nadya Toto, Christian shouldn’t miss La Braderie de Mode Québé- Chenail and Travis Taddeo. For more infor- coise. Held in April and October, the four- mation, check out Québec fashion magazines day sale brings big savings on more than 100 such as Clin d’Oeil, Lou Lou and Elle Québec. brands. It’s held in the Marché Bonsecours. Better still, visit during Montréal’s August For upcoming sales, check out these sites: Fashion & Design Festival (www.festivalmode MTL Warehouse (www.mtlwarehouse.ca), All design.com), which showcases new collections. Sales (www.allsales.ca) and I Love Sample Sales (www.ilovesamplesales.com). Something for Everyone Shopping by Neighborhood Beyond fashion, Montréal is an ideal shop- ping city, full of goods you’ll want to take ¨¨Old Montréal Upscale Rue St-Paul is home to home. You’ll find the cream of the crop in galleries, designer furnishings and clothing shops. this shopping paradise – from big interna- Closer to Pl Jacques-Cartier is tourist tat. (p63) tional department stores to high-fashion de- ¨¨Downtown Busy Rue Ste-Catherine has the big signers, vintage clothing boutiques to weird names, department stores, and some specialty one-of-a-kind antique shops, used-music shops and local fashion boutiques. For antiques stores and booksellers, chic home decor and head to Rue Notre-Dame Ouest. (p87) more. As well, many international megastore ¨¨Plateau Mont-Royal Hip clothing and home- chains have shops here, but with a local or decor boutiques are located on Blvd St-Laurent European flair. and Rue St-Denis. Ave du Mont-Royal has used books and records. (p114) Sales ¨¨Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont Great for Montréal’s prices can be high. To save cash, groceries and cooking items. Prices soar on Rue plan your shopping around big sales events. Laurier, Ave Bernard and elegant Westmount Sq. Keep an eye out for sample sales, when (p127) designers offload new productions and showroom pieces at rock-bottom prices.

41 GREAT MARKETS OF MONTRÉAL PLAN YOUR TRIP SHOPPING Montréal is famed for its impressive year-round food markets, where you can sample the great bounty of the north. For more information, visit Marchés Publics de Montréal (www.marchespublics-mtl.com). ¨¨Marché Jean-Talon (p118) The city’s largest market has several hundred market stalls selling all manner of produce, plus food counters where you can get juices, crepes, baguette sandwiches and more. Don’t miss the Québecois specialty store Le Marché des Saveurs. ¨¨Marché Atwater (Map p272; 138 Ave Atwater; h7am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 7pm Thu, to 8pm Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; v; mAtwater) Located right on the banks of the Canal de Lachine, with scores of vendors outside and high-class delicatessens and specialty food shops inside, in the tiled, vaulted hall under the art-deco clock tower. ¨¨Marché de Maisonneuve (%514-937-7754; 4445 Rue Ontario Est; h7am-6pm Mon- Wed, to 8pm Thu-Fri, to 6pm Sat, to 5pm Sun; mPie-IX, then bus 139) About 20 farm stalls, and inside, a dozen vendors of meat, cheese, fresh vegetables, tasty pastries and pastas in a beautiful beaux-arts building (1912–14) girded by pretty gardens. ¨¨Marché St-Jacques (p100) Traditional food stalls and shops still occupy their 1931 art-deco home in the northern reach of the Village. Lonely Planet’s Parisian Laundry (p77) A Best Fashion Top Choices massive space often featuring large-scale installations. Rooney (p64) Stylish garments Le Marché des Saveurs du Galerie Le Chariot (p64) Huge and accessories. Québec (p127) A splendor of collection of Inuit arts and crafts. Ibiki (p114) Beautifully made Québecois goodies: beer, maple men’s and women’s wear. syrup, sweets, jams and more. Best for Food & Drink Roots (p88) A great variety of Frank & Oak (p127) Well- clothing and gear from one of crafted, affordable men’s clothing La Tablette de Miss Choco Canada’s best-known brands. by a Montréal fashion label. (p114) Chocolates from Holt Renfrew (p87) A high-end Monastiraki (p127) Avant- around the globe. department store with a top garde art zines to eclectic Camellia Sinensis (p100) Tea selection of well-known brands. antiques: this hipster retro lovers shouldn’t miss this shop shrine fascinates. and its adjoining teahouse. Best for Gifts Galerie CO (p127) Lovely eco- Candy Labs (p87) Flavorful friendly objects for the house. housemade candies almost too Zone Orange (p64) Crafty Drawn & Quarterly (p127) A pretty to eat. jewelry, toys, and housewares fine collection of literary works made by Québecois artisans. and graphic novels, including its Best Vintage Artpop (p114) Eye-catching own imprint. T-shirts, bags and frame-worthy Eva B (p87) Step into an prints of Montréal landmarks. Best Art alternate universe in this wild Au Papier Japonais (p127) vintage emporium. Gorgeous collection of hand- Galerie Simon Blais (p128) Friperie St-Laurent (p115) made paper from Japan. A prestigious gallery with top- Plateau icon and home to some name artists in Mile End. of the best apparel from the past. Best Record Stores Galeries d’Art Contemporain du Belgo (p74) An intriguing Best Design Aux 33 Tours (p114) Extraor- building with galleries and artist dinary collection of albums, new studios. Style Labo (p128) Vintage and used (plus CDs). DHC Art (p64) An Old Mon- chic and curios from the past. Phonopolis (p128) A music tréal spot featuring cutting-edge Espace Pepin (p64) Artful lover’s haunt in Mile End. works by contemporary artists. housewares and fashion pieces.

42 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ANDREW ROWAT / GETTY IMAGES © Explore Montréal & Québec City Neighborhoods at a Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . 154 Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Québec City. . . . . . . . . 167 Old Montréal. . . . . . . . 46 Plateau Mont-Royal . . . . . . . . . 101 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 193 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 61 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 111 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 201 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . . 64 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 115 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Parc Jean-Drapeau. . . 66 Little Italy, Mile End & Outremont. . . . . . . . . . 116 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . . 70 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 123 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Downtown. . . . . . . . . . . 71 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 128 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Southwest & Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Outer Montréal. . . . . . 129 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 82 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . . 88 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Quartier Latin & Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 141 the Village. . . . . . . . . . 89 Day Trips from Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Montréal . . . . . . . . . . 143 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Trois-Rivières . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 95 The Laurentians. . . . . . . . . . 146 The Eastern Townships. . . . 149

43 MONTRÉAL & QUÉBEC CITY’S TOP SIGHTS Basilique Notre-Dame...... 48 Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montréal........................73 Rue St-Denis....................... 91 Oratoire St-Joseph............131 La Citadelle.......................169 Le Château Frontenac..... 170 Cabane à sucre (maple-sugar shack), p148

Neighborhoods at a Glance ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 44 Neighborhoods at a Glance 1 Old Montréal p46 parkland and cafes along Rue de la Com- mune. Nearby Chinatown is small but packed On the edge of the St Lawrence River, Old with cheap, tasty eateries. Montréal is the city’s birthplace, composed of picturesque squares, grand old-world 2 Parc Jean-Drapeau p66 architecture and a dense concentration of camera-toting tourists. The narrow Rue Worlds away from the city bustle, this park St-Paul, the old main street, teems with art stretches across two leafy islands in the galleries, shops and eateries, while the broad midst of the mighty St Lawrence, about concourse of the Old Port is lined with green half a mile east of the Old Port. The prime 6 1666661 Ave Van Horne LITTLE ITALY Blvd Décarie Chemin de la Côte-Ste-Catherine OUTREMONT 6# Blvd Rosemont Chemin Queen Mary 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Ave du Parc Rue St-Denis Parc Sir 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 LWaiulfrrieedr 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 Oratoire 1 1 1 1 11 MILE St-Joseph Ü# Cimetière Notre- 1 END Dame-des-Neiges 111 Parc du Mont-Royal 6666666666Avede666666666l'Eglise 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Rue St-Urbain Ave du Mont-Royal 1 1 1 1 Blvd St-Laurent PLATEAU Parc 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 MONRT-uReORYAaLchel Est Summit1 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 5# Parc La 1 Fontaine WESTMOUNT Ave des Pi ns Ouest Rue de Bleury Rue St-Jacques Rue Sherbrooke Ouest Musée des QUARTIER â# Beaux-Arts LATIN 4#Rue æ# de Montréal Rue Ouest St-Denis Blvd de Maisonneuve Est Ste-Catherine DOWNTOWN Blvd René-Lévesque Est Ave Atwater 3# Rue Peel CHINATOWN 1Basilique # RDuaemNeotErset- Rue St-Jacques Ü# Notre-Dame Canal de Lachine OLD MONTRÉAL 6 CiPtéardcudHe alavre VERDUN

45 draws are outdoor activities such as cy- 4 Quartier Latin & the cling and jogging, though you’ll also find some noteworthy museums, architectural Village p89 remnants of the landmark Expo ’67, and lake swimming and weekly dance parties The Quartier Latin is a gateway to theat- in the summer. ers, lively cafes and low-key bars packed with students from the French-speaking 3 Downtown p71 Université du Québec à Montréal. Continue west to reach the Village, a major icon for At the feet of its modern skyscrapers and gay travelers. Shops, restaurants and bars condo developments lie heritage buildings proudly fly the rainbow colors here, and the and old-time mansions, top-notch mu- nightlife and cafe scene rarely slows down. seums and numerous green spaces. The two most common species here are busi- 5 Plateau Mont-Royal p101 nesspeople, and students from McGill and Concordia Universities. The city’s major This former immigrant neighborhood shopping district is downtown, as is the houses a wealth of sidewalk cafes, excellent performing-arts complex, Place des Arts. restaurants, bars and boutiques. For many This is the epicenter of the city’s jazz festi- Montréalers and visitors alike, exploring val in summer. the Plateau is what Montréal is all about. NEIGHBORHOODS AT A GLANCE The Plateau is handily located next to Mon- tréal’s beloved ‘mountain,’ Mont-Royal, Blvd Pie-IXhome to walking and biking trails, a pretty lake and great views over the city. 66666666 66666e# 0 2 km 6 Little Italy, Mile End & 0 1 mile Blvd Rosemont Parc Outremont p116 Maisonneuve Blvd St-Joseph Est Just up from the Plateau are Mile End and Parc Outremont, two leafy neighborhoods with Rue Sherbrooke Est Olympique upscale boutiques and restaurants; nearby, Little Italy is a slice of the old world, with THE Rue Ontario Est classic Italian trattorias and espresso bars, VILLAGE Rue St-Catherine Est neighborhood churches and the sprawling Marché Jean-Talon, the city’s best market. St Lawrence River These three neighborhoods are also home to some of the best new bars in Montréal. 2# 7 Southwest & PDarrcapJeeaaun- Outer Montréal p129 PARC JEAN- This grab bag of districts takes in the Canal DRAPEAU de Lachine, one of the best biking paths in the city, as well as working-class districts such as Petite-Bourgogne and St-Henri. The highlight, however, is the majestic Oratoire St-Joseph, the iconic hillside church. The eastern part of the city also has some popu- lar attractions, including Olympic Park, home to a planetarium, botanical gardens, a kid-friendly ecosystems museum and an eye-popping stadium.

46 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Old Montréal OLD MONTRÉAL | OLD PORT | CHINATOWN Neighborhood Top Five 1 Soaking up the beau- 3 Getting your bearings 5 Visiting the sailors’ tiful craftsmanship and amid the heritage archi- soaring architecture of the tecture of Place d’Armes chapel in the charming (p49) and its monument Chapelle Notre-Dame- Basilique Notre-Dame de-Bonsecours (p50), (p48), the city’s spiritual to Montréal’s founder. immortalized by Leonard jewel. Cohen. 4 Journeying back to the 2 Taking in a circus Montréal’s early foundation performance, river cruise, on a fascinating subterra- or waterfront stroll at the nean walk inside the Musée storied Old Port (p57). d’Archéologie et d’Histoire Pointe-à-Callière (p49). Blvd René-Lévesque Ouest e# 00000000000 Rue de Bleury 0 400 m Rue Anderson 0 0.2 miles Rue Rue de La Gauchetière Est St-Urbain Rue St-Denis Rue Berri Blvd St-Laurent Rue de Bullion CHINATOWN Ave Viger Est 000000R0000u00000e00000S000t00-SulpiceVigerOuest Sq Viger Pl 000000000000000000000000000000000000Ave Autoroute Ville-Marie Rue St-Antoine Est 00000000000000000000000000000000 Jean-Paul- Riopelle Rue St-Antoine Ouest Champ de Mars 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 Rue St-Jacques 3##æ Blvd St-Laurent Pl Rue Notre-Dame Est Vauquelin Rue Notre-Dame Ouest 1#Ü# 5Pl CJaacrqtiueRreRusu-eeSdte-PlaauCloEmstmu#nÜ#e Est Rue St-Pierre 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000OLD Artistes BoBnasescsoinurs 4BI'aHsosrinlodgee MONTRÉAL des Rue McGill 2Promenade #ï# Parc du Quai de Rue King4Rue St-PPadru'oYlmoOPueulnvaeRidlsuleetedduAeVllBieaexauCaxso-sn#mPâ#iRdonmrortPauynlaelAeOlCeuQxoeaunPsnatviedierryaor Quai BoBnasesscionurs Quai Jacques- 4 4I'Horloge King Edward Cartier Bassin St Lawrence River EdKwinagrd PÉacrlcusdeess For more detail of this area see Map p268 A

47 Explore Old Montréal Lonely Planet’s Old Montréal  Top Tip Begin your tour of Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal) in its heart – historic Place d’Armes. Admire the recently reno- As with many streets in the vated square, with its statue of city founder Paul Cho- city, east and west (est and medey de Maisonneuve, and then head inside the iconic ouest in French) labels on Basilique Notre-Dame. Take your time viewing its finely street signs don’t reflect crafted interior before crossing the square and visiting true compass orientations. the Bank of Montreal’s 1847 headquarters, with its neo- Remember that ‘east–west’ classical facade and vaulted marble interior. streets such as Rue Notre- Dame actually run closer to Next head down Rue St-Sulpice past the basilica to Rue north–south, and this can St-Paul Ouest and turn left. It’s lined with art galleries, be confusing if you like ori- plush boutiques and eateries, but these give way to tacky enteering with maps. souvenir shops before you reach Place Jacques-Cartier, a grand square dedicated to the French explorer that’s full 5 Best Places of artists and buskers. At one end is the photogenic Hôtel to Eat de Ville (City Hall) while one block to the north, along Rue St-Paul Est, is the equally pretty Marché Bonsecours ¨¨Olive + Gourmando with its silver dome. Just past it is the beautiful Chapelle (p58) Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours, a humble sailors’ church ¨¨Tapas, 24 (p60) that is the perfect counterpoint to the basilica. ¨¨Orange Rouge (p61) ¨¨Barroco (p59) One block east is Rue de la Commune Est, a breezy wa- ¨¨Garde-Manger (p59) terfront street that gives you access to the Old Port and ¨¨Toqué! (p60) its museums, the Cirque du Soleil big top and river cruis- es. Proceed northwest up Blvd St-Laurent for 15 minutes For reviews, see p57. A to reach Montréal’s small Chinatown. It’s an excellent place to grab a cheap but satisfying plate of dumplings. 6 Best Places to Drink Local Life ¨¨Le Confessionnal ¨Happy hour In summer Montréalers love to enjoy (p62) cinq à sept (happy hour) on rooftop patios in Old Montréal. ¨¨Le Mal Necessaire ¨Fine dining Locals flock to the atmospheric stone- (p63) walled dining rooms in Old Montréal as well as the cheapie noodle eateries in Chinatown. ¨¨Philémon (p61) ¨Biking Rent a Bixi (p240) bike and ride from the Old Port to the Canal de Lachine bike path. ¨¨Terrasse Nelligan (p62) Getting There & Away ¨¨Les Soeurs Grises ¨Metro To reach Old Montréal or Chinatown, take the (p62) metro to Square-Victoria, Place-d’Armes or Champ-de- Mars. ¨¨Terrasse Place ¨Bus Bus 14 runs along Rue Notre-Dame in Old d’Armes (p62) Montréal between Rue Berri and Blvd St-Laurent; bus 55 stops on Blvd St-Laurent. For reviews, see p61. A ¨On foot While it is expansive, the area can be easily explored on foot, and accessed from downtown via 2 Best streets such as Rue de Bleury. Activities ¨Biking The Old Port is an entry point to a bike path that leads to the Canal de Lachine, which connects to ¨¨Ça Roule Montréal the fringes of downtown at Rue Charlevoix. (p64) ¨¨Bota Bota (p65) ¨¨Saute-Moutons (p65) For reviews, see p64. A

BASILIQUE NOTRE-DAME This grand dame of Montréal’s ecclesiastical DON’T MISS SOUMENNATH / GETTY IMAGES © treasures is a must-see when exploring the city. The ¨¨Casavant organ looming Gothic Revival church can hold up to 3200 worshippers and houses a collection of finely crafted ¨¨Chapelle du Sacré artworks, including an elaborately carved altarpiece, Coeur vibrant stained-glass windows and an intricate pulpit. ¨¨A choral concert The Sulpicians commissioned James O’Donnell, a New York architect and Irish Protestant, to design what would be the largest church north of Mexico. He converted to Ca- PRACTICALITIES tholicism so he could have his funeral in the basilica, and ¨¨Map p268 is buried in the crypt. ¨¨www.basiliquenddm. org Opened in 1829, the basilica has a spectacular interior ¨¨110 Rue Notre-Dame with a forest of ornate wood pillars and carvings made en- Ouest tirely by hand (and constructed without the aid of a single ¨¨adult/child $5/4 nail). Gilt stars shine from the ceiling vaults and the al- tar is backlit in evening-sky blues. The massive 7000-pipe Casavant organ provides the powerful anthem at the fa- ¨¨h8am-4:30pm Mon- mous Christmas concerts; the church bell, the Gros Bour- Sat, 12:30-4pm Sun don, is the largest on the continent. While decoration is fairly minimal on the stone facade, you’ll note three prominent statues: the Virgin Mary in the center (patron saint of Mon- tréal), St John the Baptist (representing Québec) to the right, and St Joseph (for Canada) to the left. The Chapelle du Sacré Coeur, located behind the main hall, is nicknamed the Wed- ding Chapel. The curious mix of styles emerged after a 1978 fire, when the chapel was rebuilt with a brass altar with abstract-modern motifs. There are periodic choral and orchestral concerts throughout the year, which showcase the church’s remarkable acoustics.