ASTOUNDING TREES | THE DEEPEST CAVE? VIKINGS MARCH 2017
I CONTENTS . .M A R C H 2 0 1 7 • VO L 2 3 1 • N O 3 • O F F I C I A L J O U R N A L O F T H E N AT I O N A L G EO G R A P H I C SO C I E T Y DEPARTMENTS F E AT U R E S VISIONS 52 THE WISDOM OF TREES EXPLORE Every tree tells a story. Some are beyond eloquent: the apple tree that illustrated the law .LWHVNLLQJRQLFHDQLPDO of gravity, the pear tree that survived 9/11, pines that can live more than 5,000 years. tools, a ship elevator, and a By Cathy Newman Photographs by Diane Cook and Len Jenshel monastery’s hidden texts STARTALK -D]]PHQ+HUELH+DQFRFN and Wayne Shorter jam with Neil deGrasse Tyson. The centuries-old Wedding 2DNQHDU6DQ6DED7H[DVLV named for the many nuptials that have been held under it. SPECIAL POSTER: 30 | NEW VISIONS 74 | A SEA’S FADING 86 | A FIGHT THE VIKINGS’ FAR- OF THE VIKINGS BOUNTY TO SURVIVE FLUNG REALM AND How Scandinavian farmers Politics and exploitation FEARSOME FLEET became Europe’s scourge. SXWDJUHDWƃVKHU\\DWULVN &UHVWHGEODFNPDFDTXHV have many enemies. On the Cover A Scandinavian By Heather Pringle By Rachael Bale By Jennifer S. Holland warrior chief from the late 10th Photographs by Robert Clark Photographs by Photographs by century is ready for battle. The and David Guttenfelder Adam Dean Stefano Unterthiner headgear he wears is based on WKHRQO\\FRPSOHWH9LNLQJPHWDO 104 | DARK STAR: INTO THE DEEP 120 | METROPOLIS KHOPHWNQRZQWRVXUYLYH An expedition plumbs the depths of what The world’s megacities are a swirl of Art by Fernando G. Baptista may be the Everest of the underground. 21st-century energy and humanity. &RUUHFWLRQVDQG&ODULƃFDWLRQV By Mark Synnott Story and Photographs by Go to natgeo.com/corrections. Photographs by Robbie Shone Martin Roemers
ELSEWHERE TELEVISION TELEVISION TAKE A JOURNEY THROUGH HUMANITY’S ORIGINS CESAR HITS THE ROAD… In Cesar Millan’s Dog Nation the dog behav- +XPDQLW\\KDVSURJUHVVHGWKDQNVWRDVHTXHQFHRITXDQWXPOHDSV LRUH[SHUWDQGKLVVRQ$QGUHWRXUWKH8QLWHG LQFOXGLQJWKHGLVFRYHU\\RIƃUHWKHGDZQRIFRPPXQLFDWLRQDQGWKH States helping owners and pets. The series ƃUVWVWLUULQJVRIZDU1DWLRQDO*HRJUDSKLFŠV new series ORIGINS delves debuts March 3 at 9/8c on Nat Geo WILD. into these and other advances Mondays at 9/8c, starting March 6. TELEVISION THE LANDMARK SERIES EXPLORER IS BACK Long a popular documentary series, Explorer returns with magazine storytelling, celebrity guests, and wide-ranging conversation. Watch the series on Mondays at 10/9c on National Geographic. STOP-MOTION VIDEO JOIN THE VOYAGES OF A VIKING SHIPBUILDER In a video adventure rooted in Norse mythology and fashioned entirely RIKDQGPDGHSDSHUDUWD9LNLQJPDVWHUEXLOGHUFRQVWUXFWVDVKLSWKHQ SLORWVLWRQUDLGVWRWDNHORRWDQGVODYHV6HHLWDWngm.com/Mar2017. BOOKS …AND OFFERS CANINE ‘LESSONS’ In Cesar Millan’s Lessons From the Pack: Stories of the Dogs Who Changed My Life, the Dog Whisperer shares life lessons he’s learned from dogs. Available at shopng.com DQGZKHUHYHUERRNVDUHVROG 360-DEGREE VIDEO NAT GEO WILD YOUTUBE CHANNEL EXPERIENCE A BATTLE WITH VIKING WARRIORS SEE NEW WILDLIFE VIDEOS 1DW*HR:,/'ORRNVDWVXUSULVLQJDQLPDOV $UPHGZLWKVZRUGVDQGD[HVDUPRUFODGUHHQDFWRUVDWD9LNLQJIHVWLYDO IRXQGLQRXURZQEDFN\\DUGVLQDQHZGLJLWDO LQ:ROLQ3RODQGODXQFKDQRƂHQVLYHDJDLQVWWKH6ODYVŞDQG\\RXFDQ series, Untamed With Filipe DeAndrade, be part of it. Find our immersive 360°ƃOPDWnatgeo.com/vikings360. airing on YouTube March 14. TELEVISION THE BIG CATS KEEP ON COMING 2XUDQQXDO%LJ&DW:HHNNLFNVRƂ February 20 on Nat Geo WILD. Subscriptions For subscriptions or changes of address, contact Customer Service at ngmservice.com or Contributions to the National Geographic Society are tax deductible FDOO2XWVLGHWKH86RU&DQDGDFDOO:HRFFDVLRQDOO\\PDNHRXUVXEVFULEHU XQGHU6HFWLRQF RIWKH86WD[FRGH_&RS\\ULJKWk names available to companies whose products or services might be of interest to you. If you prefer not to 1DWLRQDO*HRJUDSKLF3DUWQHUV//&_$OOULJKWVUHVHUYHG1DWLRQDO be included, you may request that your name be removed from promotion lists by calling 1-800-NGS-LINE *HRJUDSKLFDQG<HOORZ%RUGHU5HJLVWHUHG7UDGHPDUNVp0DUFDV (647-5463). To prevent your name from being available to all direct mail companies, contact: Mail Preferences Registradas. National Geographic assumes no responsibility for 6HUYLFHFR'LUHFW0DUNHWLQJ$VVRFLDWLRQ32%R[)DUPLQJGDOH1< XQVROLFLWHGPDWHULDOV3ULQWHGLQ86$ 1$7,21$/*(2*5$3+,&ǖ,661ǨǨǪǯǑDZǫǭǰǗ38%/,6+('0217+/<%<1$7,21$/*(2*5$3+,&3$571(56//&ǩǩǬǭǩǯ7+671::$6+,1*721'&ǪǨǨǫǮ21(<($50(0%(56+,3ǤǫDZǨǨ86'(/,9Ǒ (5<ǤǬǬǨǨ72&$1$'$ǤǭǩǨǨ72,17(51$7,21$/$''5(66(66,1*/(,668(ǤǯǨǨ86'(/,9(5<ǤǩǨǨǨ&$1$'$ǤǩǭǨǨ,17(51$7,21$/ǖ$//35,&(6,186)81'6,1&/8'(66+,33,1*$1'+$1Ǒ '/,1*Ǘ3(5,2',&$/63267$*(3$,'$7:$6+,1*721'&$1'$'',7,21$/0$,/,1*2)),&(632670$67(56(1'$''5(66&+$1*(6721$7,21$/*(2*5$3+,&32%2;ǮǪǩǫǨ7$03$)/ǫǫǮǮǪ,1 &$1$'$$*5((0(17180%(5ǬǨǨǮǫǮǬDZ5(785181'(/,9(5$%/($''5(66(6721$7,21$/*(2*5$3+,&32%2;ǬǬǩǪ671$7252172217$5,20ǭ:ǫ:Ǫ81,7('.,1*'201(:667$1' 35,&(ǦǭDZDZ5(35(1)5$1&((0')5$1&(6$%3ǩǨǪDZǭDZǨǩǩ/,//(&('(;7(/ǫǪǨǫǨǨǫǨǪ&33$3Ǩǯǩǭ8ǰDZǨǫǯ',5(&7(8538%/,&$7,21'7$66,1$5,',55(63,7$/<5$33,0'65/9,$*'$ 9(/$7(ǩǩǪǨǩǮǪ0,/$12$8775,%0,ǪǭǰǪǮǭǰǬ3267(,7$/,$1(63$63('$%%3267'/ǫǭǫǪǨǨǫǖ&219/ǪǯǨǪǪǨǨǬ1ǬǮǗ$57ǩ&ǩ'&%0,/$1267$03$48$'*5$3+,&60$57,16%85*:9 ǪǭǬǨǩ0(0%(56,)7+(3267$/6(59,&($/(576867+$7<2850$*$=,1(,681'(/,9(5$%/(:(+$9(12)857+(52%/,*$7,2181/(66:(5(&(,9($&255(&7('$''5(66:,7+,17:2<($56 3+2726+$16:(,6(ǖ6+,3%8,/',1*Ǘ0$5.7+,(66(11*067$))
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| EDITOR’S LETTER | CLIMATE CHANGE ON THE SIDE report—factually and fairly—on how When Albert Lukassen OF SCIENCE climate change is altering the Earth. was a boy in Greenland more than 50 years ago, In the past three years, this magazine Those who deny climate change he hunted until June on has run 34 stories on climate change— receive a lot of attention, but the vast the frozen Uummannaq including a special issue devoted entirely majority of Americans acknowledge Fjord. Today the fjord thaws to the topic. the reality of the problem. Nearly two- by April, when this photo thirds of respondents told Gallup last was taken. The Inuit man’s Our commitment is ongoing. In the year that they are worried about global story appears in National April issue, to mark Earth Day, we’ll warming—the highest figure since 2008. Geographic’s Climate Issue, publish a guide that separates fact from which can be ordered at fallacy on climate change and a feature To help keep you current on develop- 1-800-777-2800. story on how rising temperatures are ments, we’re expanding our environmen- affecting Alaska. Later this year we’ll tal coverage across publishing platforms. EXPLORER offer looks at the Arctic, Antarctica, the We’ll have deeply reported magazine Bill Nye’s Galápagos Islands, and other places at stories, brought to life with exceptional Global risk as the world warms. Our television photography, graphics, and maps. On Meltdown channel is airing a documentary film nationalgeographic.com, you’ll find top- and a three-part series on water issues. ical stories every day, as well as a climate The Climate Issue change reference guide. And on our social And that doesn’t count the hundreds media accounts, our contributors are of climate stories we have published on providing compelling views of climate nationalgeographic.com. change from all points of the globe. Covering our climate—where we keep We are committed to understanding, setting records for the hottest year—is and to helping you understand, how best one of the most important things we to care for this planet. Perhaps philoso- can do. It’s especially crucial in an era pher Eric Hoffer put it best: “In a time when some people claim that there are of drastic change it is the learners who no “facts” and basic science is loudly inherit the future. The learned usually questioned without embarrassment. find themselves equipped to live in a world that no longer exists.” At National Geographic we are proudly nonpartisan. But there are a few matters Thank you for reading National on which we do take sides: Geographic. • We are on the side of facts. Susan Goldberg, Editor in Chief • We are on the side of science. • We are on the side of the planet. We promise that we will continue to PHOTO: CIRIL JAZBEC
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I VISIONS Estonia Like mushrooms sprouting in soil, wooden poles capped with ice poke free of the sea at an old port in Tallinn. Lit by the rising sun, these remnants of a dock on the Paljassaare Peninsula are visible due to an unusually low tide. PHOTO: ANDREI REINOL
Mozambique $GULIWLQJMHOO\\ƃVK plays host to a small constellation of brittle stars. Scientists aren’t sure why the two invertebrate species sometimes unite. The salad-bowl-size MHOO\\PD\\RƂHUWKHVWDUV food, protection, or transportation. PHOTO: ANDREA MARSHALL
England On a misty morning in London’s Richmond Park, a red deer stag bellows during mating season. From Sep- tember to November, mature males roar and thrash the brush with their antlers to attract females, aka hinds, and to intimidate rivals. PHOTO: FÉLIX MORLÁN GONZÁLEZ O Order prints of select National Geographic photos online at NationalGeographicArt.com.
| VISIONS | YOURSHOT.NGM.COM Andrew Richard Hara Hilo, Hawaii Hara, a professional photographer, had been to the summit of Mauna Kea hundreds of times LQVHDUFKRIDFOHDUVN\\$PHWHRUVKRZHULQ-XO\\RƂHUHGFRVPLFGUDPDWLFVŢ,WKLQN being at only 60 percent oxygen helps me focus on what makes a great image,” he says.
EXPLORE TOOLS AND TECHNOLOGY SIX HUNDRED NATGEO.COM MILES WITH SKIS, / EXPLORERS KITES, AND WIND INSTAGRAM By Kat Long @sarahmcnairlandry @eboomer On the southeastern edge of the @redonkulous2u Greenland ice sheet, a blast of Arctic wind hit the three kite-skiers. Sarah The three adventurers McNair-Landry’s kite billowed, but with crossed 600 miles of her safety latch jammed, the gust yanked Greenland’s punishing her 20 feet into the air. She dropped head- terrain in 46 days. first onto the ice, cracking her helmet and briefly blacking out. The accident almost derailed her expedition with kayakers Ben Stookes- berry and Erik Boomer—an expedition to kite-ski from east to northwest across Greenland. But the three continued on, wearing skis while harnessed to giant kites designed to catch the wind and propel them across 600 miles of ice. “You’ve got these amazing winds and conditions in Greenland,” says McNair-Landry. “You can travel so much faster and farther, especially while pull- ing sleds, than you would if you were just skiing.” On some days the three would ski across the terrain from 3 a.m. to 10 p.m. They encountered dangerous crevasses, uneven ice, and a seven-mile ice canyon carved by meltwater. After the canyon they paddled a wild Arctic river replete with waterfalls and bone-chilling class-five rapids to com- plete the journey. McNair-Landry later learned her fall had cracked a vertebra in her back, but that didn’t detract from an adventure well traveled. “I love having one goal that you work toward as a team,” she says, “even though there will be a lot of challenges to get there.”
PHOTO: ERIK BOOMER
| EXPLORE | TOOLS AND TECHNOLOGY On this parchment (left), the naked eye sees only one text. But a multispectral image (right), HIGH-TECH shows two: the visible text, in red, and an earlier, erased document underneath, in blue. TRAPPINGS RECOVERING fresh surface. The old text isn’t entirely ERASED WISDOM gone, though. It remains embedded in A researcher at the the page as a ghostly shadow, which can University of Tokyo By A. R. Williams be resurrected with a technique called spent six years trying multispectral imaging, designed to peer to transform electrical Built in the sixth century at the foot of into both visible and invisible wave- Mount Sinai in Egypt, St. Catherine’s lengths of light. FXUUHQWVLQWRWKHƄDYRU Monastery is the world’s oldest such of salt. The result? A institution in continuous use. Its library So far the imaging has revealed some fork that fools taste preserves hundreds of manuscripts col- 6,800 hidden pages in 74 of the monas- buds by transmitting lected during medieval times—classical tery’s 163 recycled parchments, called the sensation of salt to texts, scriptures, and other documents palimpsests. “We have identified erased the tongue without a of interest to the monks. But it turns texts in 10 languages that date from the pinch of sodium. out that people recycled the pages of fifth to the 12th centuries,” says Michael some of those manuscripts, erasing texts Phelps, the director of the recovery ef- An Israeli tech start-up they no longer needed. Since 2011 the fort. In the example above, a text in is replacing bifocals monastery has been working to recover Syriac overlays a ninth-century trans- with “omnifocals.” The some of those long-lost erasures using lation of a page from a medical treatise autofocusing glasses modern digital technology. by the ancient Greco-Roman physician have infrared sensors known as Galen. that detect the dis- About half of the library’s manu- tance between pupils scripts were written on parchment, the With dozens of palimpsests yet to be and the object being specially prepared skin of a calf, goat, or scanned, Phelps believes there are still viewed, refocusing in sheep. Parchment can be recycled by treasures to come: “It’s not unlikely that 300 milliseconds. scraping off any ink and writing on the St. Catherine’s holds many more pages of previously unidentified and unstudied Your cell phone knows texts from antiquity.” you best. Scientists at the University of California San Diego swabbed 39 devices and were able to identi- fy their owners’ groom- ing products, medical conditions, recently visited locations, and favorite foods. Such a composite character sketch can be used LQFULPLQDOSURƃOLQJRU medical monitoring. A scientist at the University of Central Florida developed a material to harvest and store the sun’s energy. Woven into clothing, WKHFRSSHUULEERQƃOD- ment will turn a wearer into a self-charging solar battery that may someday power a phone from inside a pocket. PHOTOS: ST. CATHERINE’S MONASTERY, USED WITH PERMISSION
| EXPLORE | TOOLS AND TECHNOLOGY New World ANIMAL HACKS monkeys By Rachel Hartigan Shea (22 tool uses) Bonobo Humans aren’t the only creatures to use (21) tools. Archerfish shoot water droplets from their mouths to fell insects. Oc- Old World topuses carry coconut shells to serve monkeys as shelter. Orangutans borrow canoes to forage for aquatic plants. (19) Elephants “Tool use is widespread and diverse,” (12) ALBERTO LUCAS LÓPEZ, NGM STAFF; KELSEY NOWAKOWSKI Rodents PHOTO OF PAPER CONSTRUCTION: REBECCA HALE, NGM STAFF (8) Insects (7) Ungulates (4) Prosimians (3) Arachnids (3) Fish (2) Amphibians (1)
$ƅ[DSSO\\RUGUDSHDQREMHFWRQWKHERG\\ Differences in 7KURZ animal tool use %DLWHQWLFH Each layer represents &RQWDLQOLTXLGVRUREMHFWVIRUFRQWURORUWUDQVSRUW a mode of tool use. Colored bars next to the 3U\\DSSO\\OHYHUDJH animals’ names indicate %UDQGLVKZDYHVKDNH which behaviors have been recorded for that %ORFN group in the scientif- 3URSDQGFOLPEEDODQFHDQGFOLPEEULGJHUHSRVLWLRQ ic literature. Animal groupings can have one 'LJ species (bonobo), a few 6FUDWFKUXE (Old World monkeys), 3RXQGKDPPHU or hundreds (insects). +DQJ :LSH Chimpanzees, ,QVHUWDQGSUREH orangutans 'URS (22 tool uses) 5HDFK Gorillas 6SRQJHOLTXLGVWRPRYHWKHP (20) 'UDJUROONLFNVODSSXVKRYHU &OXEEHDW Birds -DEVWDESHQHWUDWH (18) 6\\PEROL]H &XW Carnivores (10) says biologist Robert W. Shumaker. But it’s not necessarily a sign of intelligence. Gibbons “We don’t even attempt to classify exam- (8) ples as thinking or not thinking,” he says. Cetaceans For some animals, like the archer- (6) fish, tool use is mostly instinctive: Each individual of the species does it, in the Cephalopods same way. Other animals learn their (4) skills: Before the canoeing orangutans ventured out on the water, they observed Crustaceans how humans used the craft. (3) SOURCE: ROBERT W. SHUMAKER, INDIANAPOLIS ZOO Gastropods (2) Crocodiles (1) Echinoids (1)
| EXPLORE | TOOLS AND TECHNOLOGY A PASSION FOR PINS Between 1852 and 1887 the U.S. patent RƅFHLVVXHGRYHU SDWHQWVIRUFORWKHV- SLQVVXFKDVWKRVH EHORZ7KHVHWRROV IRUDWWDFKLQJODXQGU\\ WRDOLQHEHJDQORVLQJ WKHLUYDOXHDIWHUŞ ZKHQWKHƃUVWHOHFWULF GU\\HUZHQWRQVDOH —Catherine Zuckerman 1864 1865 NIT-PICKING IN $ERXWWKUHHLQFKHVVTXDUHWKLVFRPEKDV 1866 ANCIENT CHILE WLQHVRQHDFKVLGH7UDFHVRIERWKOLFH 1867 DQGQLWVDUHORGJHGEHWZHHQWKHWLQHV 1868 1871 By A. R. Williams collection of double-sided combs made 1873 from common reeds. All came from 1883 Lice have plagued humankind through- cultural groups that flourished in river out history. Spreading from person to valleys in the Atacama Desert between person by close contact, they latch onto about A.D. 500 and 1500. hair with hooklike claws and pierce the scalp to suck up a meal of blood. The Experts previously suggested that result is often a very itchy head. Relief such combs had been used to create comes only with the removal of all traces complex hair styles. Also, since most of infestation—the insects, each about of the combs were found in the graves the size of a sesame seed, and the tiny of women, they might have served a eggs they lay, known as nits. function in the female task of weaving. Picking off the parasites one by one But viewing the combs at 10 times is tedious, so many cultures have craft- normal size revealed their true purpose: ed fine-tooth combs to hasten the job. Many still bore traces of the lice and Combs of wood, bone, and ivory have nits they had extracted from someone’s turned up at ancient sites in the Old tresses. In pre-Columbian times, as to- World, but solid evidence for such tools day, people apparently resisted cutting in the Americas was lacking until a re- off all the hair, the easiest way to get rid cent study in northern Chile. of lice. “Vanity is stronger than itching,” says lead scientist Bernardo Arriaza. That research focused on a museum “People prefer to feel ‘lousy’ than bald.” 3+2726%(51$5'2$55,$=$81,9(56,'$''(7$5$3$&&+,/(ǖ&20%Ǘ&/27+(63,163+272*5$3+(' %<-$&/<11$6+$71$7,21$/086(802)$0(5,&$1+,6725<60,7+621,$1,167,787,21
Mark Isreal Doughnut Plant Owner 37.5 lb. ORGANIC SUGAR PIZZA CUTTER 4,669 POINTS 1,499 POINTS CUSTOM DOUGHNUT CUTTERS 52,570 POINTS 7.5 lb. BUTTER MARKET FRUIT 37.5 lb. SUGAR 4.5 bags FLOUR 0.75 block YEAST 6,400 POINTS 2,194 POINTS 2.25 gallons MILK 12,668 POINTS HOW MARK TOOK 80,000 POINTS, FRIED THEM, GLAZED THEM AND MADE HEADLINES. The Ripple craze began with Mark Isreal, owner of Doughnut Plant, using 80,000 points from his Chase Ink® card to buy ingredients and equipment. Mark’s points gave him the freedom to experiment and bring an entirely new idea to life for his business. Mark started a food phenomenon with his points. What will you do with yours? See what the power of points can do for your business, by earning 80,000 bonus points after you spend $5,000 on purchases in the first 3 months after account opening. Learn more at Chase.com/Ink. Accounts subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. Chase credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. Offer subject to change. See Chase.com/Ink for pricing and rewards details. © 2017 JPMorgan Chase & Co. All rights reserved.
| EXPLORE | TOOLS AND TECHNOLOGY UP AND OVER By Daniel Stone Technically it’s ancient technology. But balanced. Remove water from one cham- 4 hours now the two-millennia-old principle of ber, and that chamber will slowly rise. the Greek mathematician Archimedes The ship lift has been deployed at gargantuan scale. A system designed to accommodate reduces transit The Three Gorges Dam, China’s marvel ships up to 3,000 metric tons is a little times from on the Yangtze River, is one of the world’s more complex. The dam first opened with up to four hours largest engineering projects—the prod- a series of locks, similar to the Panama Ca- through the lock uct of 37 million cubic yards of concrete. nal’s. The new ship lift raises and lowers system to less Its final feature, inaugurated in late 2016, boats using cables, a basin, motors—and than one hour. is a new ship lift, a hydraulic seesaw that simple gravity. Concrete counterweights raises and lowers vessels as many as 371 in addition to water keep the system 40 minutes feet to traverse the dam. balanced, as do high-tech safety stops. Lift time: 21 minutes Archimedes’ notion was simple: The The China Three Gorges Corporation, weight of a buoyant object is equal to which designed the lift with German LOCK SHIP the weight of water it displaces. Take engineers, expects several benefits: SYSTEM LIFT two identical chambers filled with equal lower power needs, a rise in shipping amounts of water. They will balance on capacity, increased passenger traffic, a scale. Add an object—e.g., a ship—to and lower carbon emissions—plus, the one of them, and let water of an equal universal currency of time. A crossing weight out. The two chambers will remain that once spanned three to four hours via locks now takes just 40 minutes. THE THREE GORGES DAM HOW IT WORKS The dam was completed in 2012 after 18 years of construction. The world’s largest hydropower 1. Entering the Lift SODQWLWKDVLQFUHDVHGHFRQRPLFWUDƅFXSULYHU Vessels enter the ship chamber, which but also displaced at least 1.3 million people accommodates a draft (or depth) of almost nine feet and a height of 60 feet. The chamber can DQGFDXVHGVLJQLƃFDQW handle boats that displace a maximum ecological changes. of 3,000 metric tons of water, or 793,000 gallons. CHINA TAIWAN JASON TREAT, NGM STAFF; KELSEY NOWAKOWSKI Three Gorges Dam ART: BRYAN CHRISTIE. SOURCES: CHINA THREE GORGES Yangtze CORPORATION; THREE GORGES NAVIGATION AUTHORITY; KREBS+KIEFER ENGINEERS Reservoir Lock system Ship lift Yangtze DAM 0 mi 1 0 km 1
3. Exiting the Lift At the top of the lift, the chamber OHYHOVRƂZLWKWKHZDWHURQWKHKLJK side of the dam. A steel gate opens, DQGWKHYHVVHOH[LWVWKHFKDPEHU 2. The Chamber Rises The chamber is made of reinforced concrete and is suspended from 256 cables attached to counterweights. When the counterweights go down, the chamber rises. SAFETY MEASURES The ship chamber is accom- panied up and down by four static screws, called rotary ORFNLQJURGV,QWKHHYHQW of an accident, the screws, which follow threaded tracks, are locked and the chamber becomes immobile. COUNTERWEIGHTS Water can be added to or subtracted from the chamber to help raise or lower it. While JUDYLW\\SULPDULO\\SRZHUVWKH lift, electric motors are used to ensure its stability and safety, PXFKOLNHZLWKDQHOHYDWRU EFFECT ON TRAFFIC &DUJRLQPHWULFWRQV 3DVVHQJHUWUDƅF 120,000 2 million &DUJRWUDƅFWKURXJKWKHORFNV rose faster than expected after 60,000 1 million they opened in 2003, while 0 0 SDVVHQJHUWUDƅFGHFOLQHG2WKHU 2003 2003 recent infrastructure projects, including the Yiwan Railway and WKH+XURQJ([SUHVVZD\\RƂHU faster routes for migrant workers through the Three Gorges region. 2015 2015
| EXPLORE | TOOLS AND TECHNOLOGY CHANGING Parents may have rejoiced last year time may rewire the developing brain, THE WORLD when their kids left the couch to run hinder cognitive abilities, and cause KIDS SEE around outside, hunting imaginary behavioral problems. But unlike other creatures. But the kids still clutched forms of digital media, “the primary By Nina Strochlic digital devices: They were using an activity in AR is interacting with the augmented reality (AR) app, which real world,” says Chris Dede, a pro- layers computer-generated images fessor in learning technologies at over a user’s surroundings, to turn the Harvard University. real world into a Pokémon Go safari. Dede foresees a future where aca- Its ability to engage kids has made demic lessons will be matched to aug- AR a powerful tool for education. AR mented settings, from economics in technology can let students experience malls to biology in zoos. Investors fore- climate change and witness historic see a windfall: According to a Goldman events. It can even assist them with Sachs estimate, AR and virtual reality homework assignments. education tech combined will generate $700 million annually by 2025. Some scientists contend that screen CATCH ’EM ALL A young girl pursues the Pokémon :HHSLQEHOOOHIW 7KHDSSVHWƃYH world records for mobile games sales within a month of its release. PHOTO: MIKE MCGREGOR. ILLUSTRATION: NIANTIC, INC.
®, TM, © 2016 Kellogg NA Co.
| STARTALK | WITH NEIL DEGRASSE TYSON The Science of Jazz Herbie Hancock on piano and Wayne Shorter on saxophone. They first paired up in the ’60s, playing with the Miles Davis Quintet. Their pioneering musicianship endures, spanning two centuries. During a syncopated chat with Neil deGrasse Tyson, they drew connections between music and other matters: science, education, inspiration. Neil deGrasse Tyson: I’ve got to start by in physics and math and the universe. I Neil deGrasse Tyson is saying that between the two of you there’s started taking them, and this became an the host of the StarTalk almost 160 years of life. Wayne, you’re… outlet for my energy, a way of harnessing television series on National Wayne Shorter: I’m 82. curiosity completely. Geographic. His new book NT: And Herbie? is StarTalk: Everything You Herbie Hancock: I’m 76. Herbie, at age 11 you won a piano Ever Need to Know About competition? Space Travel, Sci-Fi, the NT: I don’t know what’s going on with HH: Right. It was a young people’s con- Human Race, the Universe, the two of you. You look the same as cert series in Chicago, and if you win and Beyond. It’s available when I bought your albums in the 1970s. the contest, you get to play the concerto wherever books are sold Both of you have been at this since you that you used for the audition, with the and at shopng.com/startalk. were young, right? Chicago Symphony Orchestra. WS: I started playing the clarinet when PHOTO: WILLIAM CALLAN, CONTOUR I was 15, taking lessons every Saturday, There were a couple of reasons I got BY GETTY IMAGES and then I went to the saxophone at 16. In into music. One of them is that my the old days we had record gramophone mother saw that every time I would go players, and I would play alongside, like, to my best friend’s apartment, the first Dvořák’s New World Symphony and try thing I’d say is, “Hey, can I play your to jump in where it was conducive, try piano?” So she told my father, “We got to add something. to get this boy a piano.” My brother and sister and I started lessons. After about I also was listening to Charlie Parker, three years they got interested in sports Dizzy Gillespie, Thelonious Monk—and and dropped piano, but I continued playing hooky from my high school because I was too little, my hands were classes. When they caught me, the too small—I wasn’t as good at sports as vice-principal had my mother and father others. But on the piano I was as good come in and asked where I had been go- as anybody. ing. I told them, to the theater around the corner where they showed musical films NT: When I bring my expertise to the with Gillespie, Parker, Lionel Hampton. public, I figure out a way to package it So the vice-principal called the music and what words to use. Then I stand up director and put me in music class. in front of an audience and deliver my astrophysics lecture. And if I succeed, NT: Something like that happened to me people will hear it, they’ll learn—and in sixth grade. I was a little bit disruptive ideally they’ll be enlightened by it and in class—occasionally, a lot disruptive— make it part of themselves. So that’s and all of my book reports were on my conduit of communication. Your astronomy. The teacher saw that and conduit of communication is music. told me that the Hayden Planetarium HH: The conduit is being human and in New York offered advanced classes manifesting that humanity in every- thing that you do. Not just the thing that '28%/((;32685(32575$,7ǖ+$1&2&.,1)52176+257(5,1%$&.Ǘ(7+$1/(9,7$6 7+,6,17(59,(:'5$:1)520$0$<ǪǨǩǮSTARTALK7$3,1*:$6(',7(')25/(1*7+$1'&/$5,7<
| STARTALK you’re famous for, the thing that you’re known for being good at. We both share having played with Miles Davis [in a quintet that included bassist Ron Carter and drummer Tony Williams]. WS: And when Tony Williams was asked, “What do you think about when you’re playing the drums?” he said, “If I could tell you what I was thinking about, I wouldn’t have to play the drums.” NT: What you’re saying is that music ‘I like finding artists who’ve been brings vocabulary to you that doesn’t touched by the universe.’ otherwise exist. WS: Mm-hmm. Tyson, on Shorter (left) and Hancock HH: Right. And people still continue to create new avenues within the music. HH: We’ve been told that a lot of young Shorter’s work with Han- people are not interested in math cock and other artists is NT: I’m intrigued by the referencing and science, but they’re interested in the subject of a forthcom- that goes on in your music, both of you, music. Let’s use what they’re interested ing documentary, Wayne to scientific themes. To the universe in in to teach math and science—that’s a Shorter: Zero Gravity. particular. What role has science played win-win for the arts community, and for Shorter says he gave the in your lives? humanity, really. ƃOPWKDWQDPHWRH[SUHVV HH: Let me just say that when I was a “a buoyancy, a state of little kid, even before I got the piano, I NT: Yes. being which is untethered, was already taking watches and clocks HH: There are so many connections transitory.” apart and trying to put them back between music and people we revere together, because I was always curious. in the scientific community. Einstein That was all well and good until I tried played violin. to take apart my Lionel electric train. I NT: I read that John Coltrane was influ- got a spanking for that. enced by Einstein. WS: And Dr. Albert Schweitzer played NT: It’s been suggested that the next the organ. generation, their curiosity is not fos- HH: The scientific community created tered in that way because nothing can this technological age—but where did be taken apart. You don’t take apart your that impetus come from? If you ask computer to meddle with its parts. So many people—like Larry Page, one of this whole world of the tinkerer, learning the co-founders of Google—they say how things work, might be a lost era. music was a big influence. I’ve private- HH: There is tinkering, in music. And all ly asked many scientists if they’ve had kids love music. We have a new initiative a connection with music or other arts, that I presented formally to UNESCO and the answer was yes from maybe called Math, Science & Music. It’s using 85 percent of them. musical elements to teach math and science. So, if these people who have this attachment to the arts created this tech- NT: We know the concept of STEM nological age that we’re living in, then in education—science, technology, engi- order for it to thrive we need the arts the neering, and math. There’s been a move- same way they needed the arts. ment to add an A in there: STEAM, for science, technology, engineering, arts, and mathematics. I was wondering if you can reflect on the value of an arts education in our life, in our society, in our personal growth. 3+272(7+$1/(9,7$6
| EXPLORE | BASIC INSTINCTS SEX THAT WORKS fluid, whips it to a foam with her back GRAY UP A L ATHER legs, and puts in her eggs. At this point, FOAM-NEST says Byrne, up to 20 more males “line up TREE FROG By Patricia Edmonds in an orderly fashion by the female and vigorously and synchronously beat their CHIROMANTIS These frogs put the “group” in “group back legs to help make a big wonderful XERAMPELINA sex”—and that helps them thrive. nest,” where they deposit their sperm. HABITAT/RANGE Of all vertebrates, gray foam-nest tree The group spends hours pumping out frogs exhibit the most extreme form of gametes and bubble-wrapping them in Tree-, crop-, and grass- simultaneous polyandry, or a female foam that will shield growing embryos. covered lands in parts mating with multiple males, says be- Five days later tadpoles will wiggle free of southeastern Africa havioral ecologist Phillip Byrne of the of the nest and plop into the water below. University of Wollongong in Australia. CONSERVATION STATUS Nearly all C. xerampelina females After a heavy rain swells pools in the mate with multiple males to produce one Least concern African landscape, male frogs gather in egg clutch, says Byrne—and that confers poolside vegetation and call for mates, genetic advantages. His research shows OTHER FACTS while females in the pools absorb water that 20 percent more offspring survive through their skin. When she’s hydrated from those females than from females 3RO\\DQGU\\PDNHVRƂ- enough, a female heads for an overhang- that mate with just one male. spring more genetically ing branch. En route she is amplexed— diverse. That could help gripped in a sexual embrace—by a male. Unlike species whose males compete insulate C. xerampelina brutally to mate, these frogs’ orgies are from threats that have The joined pair climb to a nesting site. calm affairs, Byrne says. “By the females’ resulted in about a third There the female discharges a watery letting lots of males sire offspring, it of the globe’s amphibian makes this a pretty relaxed business.” VSHFLHVEHLQJFODVVLƃHG as threatened or extinct. PHOTO: AVALON/BRUCE COLEMAN INC/ALAMY
NEW VISIONS OF THE VIKINGS Yes, they were brutal. They also had women leaders, coveted riches and finery, and encountered more than 50 cultures from Afghanistan to Canada.
In a feathered helmet that’s more fantasy than fact, a Shetland Islander celebrates his Viking KHULWDJHDWWKHDQQXDO8S+HOO\\$DƃUHIHVWLYDO 7KHUHYHOU\\LQFOXGHVWRUFKLQJDUHSOLFDORQJVKLS ELLIOT ROSS 31
Bristling with spears and swords, Viking and 6ODYUHHQDFWRUVIDFHRƂLQDPRFNEDWWOHGXULQJ DIHVWLYDOLQ:ROLQ3RODQG:KDWEHJDQDVVPDOO raiding parties early in the Viking age grew into DUPLHVWKDWFRQTXHUHGODUJHVZDWKVRI(XURSH DAVID GUTTENFELDER 32 NAT I O NA L G E O G R A P H I C • M A RC H 2017
By Heather Pringle Photographs by Robert Clark and David Guttenfelder A cold drizzle falls as we shiver in the streets, wait- ing for the Viking lord and his band of raiders to appear. It’s a raw January night in the old Shetland town of Lerwick, but there’s euphoria in the air. Beside me, a man with two young children laughs Now, as the crowd belts out old songs of sea as he spots a red smoky haze rising behind the kings and dragon ships, the torchbearers tow town hall. “Looks like they torched the whole the vessel into a walled field. As the lord gives building,” he shouts, to grins all around. Fire, the signal, a hail of torches sets the ship ablaze. after all, is why we are here. It’s Up Helly Aa, the Fire races up the mast, and embers fly into the great incendiary celebration of the Viking past in night sky. On the sidewalk, children stomp their Shetland. Like everyone else, I’ve come to see a feet and dance, nearly delirious with excitement. Viking ship burn. Later that evening, as revelers kick up their As the lord’s squad and dozens of others pour heels at parties, I marvel at the power the into the street, fire seethes from hundreds of Vikings still hold over our imaginations. Dead torches. A roar of delight goes up from the crowd and gone for centuries, these medieval seafarers as it catches sight of the sleek longship the raid- ers tow. The Vikings first landed on these rocky 360° VIDEO shores north of the Scottish mainland some 1,200 Step into the thick of Viking warfare years ago, crushing the local resistance and taking at natgeo.com/vikings360. the land. For nearly seven centuries Norwegian lords ruled Shetland, until they finally pawned $KHOPHWRXWƃWWHGZLWKEHDUGOLNHFKDLQPDLOULJKW the islands to a Scottish king. Today the old Norse SURWHFWHGDZHDOWK\\ORUGZKROLYHGEHIRUHWKH9LNLQJ dialect—Norn—is all but forgotten in Shetland, DJHZKHQ6FDQGLQDYLDZDVZUDFNHGE\\WXUPRLO but the islanders remain intensely proud of their 5HFHQWGLVFRYHULHVUHYHDOWKDWZDUIDUHZDVQŠWWKH Viking past. Each year they prepare obsessively H[FOXVLYHGRPDLQRI9LNLQJPHQ7KHVZRUGDERYH for Up Helly Aa, assembling, plank by plank, a ZDVEXULHGZLWKDIHPDOHFRPPDQGHU replica of a Viking ship. *$%5,(/+,/'(%5$1'6:(',6++,6725<086(80&&%<ǖ6:25',17:23,(&(6Ǘ 52%(57&/$5.3+272*5$3+('$7*867$9,$1808336$/$81,9(56,7<086(80 34 NAT I O NA L G E O G R A P H I C • M A RC H 2017
Historical interpreters bring a reconstructed longhouse to life at the Ribe Viking Center in 'HQPDUN0HDOVZHUHFRRNHGRYHUDQRSHQƃUH on a hearth, and Viking fare included salted KHUULQJEDUOH\\SRUULGJHDQGERLOHGVKHHSKHDGV DAVID GUTTENFELDER STORY NAME HERE 37
The earliest attackers often struck monasteries brimming with treasures such as this gold pendant, from a 9LNLQJKRDUGXQHDUWKHGLQ6FRWODQG 52%(57&/$5.:,7+3(50,66,212)+,6725,& (19,5210(176&27/$1' and warriors live on in the invented worlds of traded avidly for luxuries. They donned Eurasian filmmakers, novelists, and comic book artists. caftans, dressed in silk from China, and pocketed Today most of us can reel off details of these heaps of Islamic silver coins. They built thriving imagined Vikings—how they fought and feasted, cities at York and Kiev, colonized large swaths where they lived, how they died. But how much of Great Britain, Iceland, and France, and estab- do we really know about the Vikings? Who were lished outposts in Greenland and North America. they, how did they see the world, and what were No other European seafarers of the day ventured their lives truly like? so fearlessly and so far from their homeland. “It’s only the people from Scandinavia who do this,” Now, with advanced technology—from satel- says Price. “Just the Vikings.” lite imagery to DNA studies and isotope analysis— archaeologists and other scientists are coming But exploration and trade weren’t the only up with many surprising new answers. In Esto- roads to wealth. Viking raiders prowled the nia, scientists are poring over two buried ships coasts of Britain and Europe, striking with sud- filled with slain warriors, shedding new light on den, shocking brutality. In northern France they the violent origins of the Vikings. In Sweden, re- sailed up and down the Seine and other rivers, searchers are studying the remains of a female attacking at leisure and filling their ships with Viking commander, illuminating the role of plunder. Spreading terror far and wide, they women in warfare. And in Russia, archaeologists extorted nearly 14 percent of the entire econo- and historians are tracing the routes of Viking my of western Europe’s Carolingian Empire in slave traders, revealing the importance of slav- exchange for empty promises of peace. Across ery to the Viking economy. For archaeologists the channel in England, sporadic raids expanded the doors are starting to swing open on a world into total warfare, as a Viking army invaded and that was far more complex and compelling than conquered three Anglo-Saxon kingdoms, leaving once thought. “These are heady times in Viking bodies to rot in the fields. research,” says Jimmy Moncrieff, a historian at the Shetland Amenity Trust in Lerwick. The Viking age, says Price, “is not for the squeamish.” But how, ask researchers today, did Taken together, the new studies reveal a fresh all this mayhem begin? How and why did medi- picture of the ambitions and cultural impact of eval farmers in Scandinavia become the scourge these daring seafarers. From the shores of their of the European continent? Scandinavian homeland, between the Baltic and North Seas, Viking fortune seekers took to the IN THE NEARLY THREE CENTURIES before the world stage in the mid-eighth century, explor- raids on foreign shores began around A.D. 750, ing much of Europe over the next 300 years and Scandinavia was wracked by turmoil, Price says. traveling farther than earlier researchers ever More than three dozen petty kingdoms arose suspected. With sleek sailing ships and expert during this period, throwing up chains of hill forts knowledge of rivers and seas, they journeyed to and vying for power and territory. In the midst what are now 37 or more countries, from Afghan- of these troubled times, catastrophe struck. A istan to Canada, according to archaeologist Neil vast cloud of dust, likely blasted into the atmo- Price of Uppsala University in Sweden. En route sphere by a combination of cataclysms—comets they chanced upon more than 50 cultures and or meteorites smashing into Earth, as well as the 38 NAT I O NA L G E O G R A P H I C • M A RC H 2017
eruption of at least one large volcano—darkened seeming abundance of wifeless young warriors, the sun beginning in A.D. 536, lowering summer and a new type of ship—created a perfect storm. temperatures in the Northern Hemisphere for the The stage was set for the Vikings to pour out of next 14 years. The extended cold and darkness the north, setting much of Europe on fire with brought death and ruin to Scandinavia, lying as their brand of violence. it did along the northern edge of medieval agri- culture. In Sweden’s Uppland region, for example, AROUND 750 A BAND of early Viking warriors nearly 75 percent of villages were abandoned, as dragged two ships onto a sandy headland on the residents succumbed to starvation and fighting. island of Saaremaa, just off the coast of Estonia. Far from their homes in the forests near Uppsala, So dire was this disaster that it seems to have Sweden, the men were the bloodied survivors of given birth to one of the darkest of all world a costly raid. Inside their ships lay the tangled myths—the Nordic legend of Ragnarök, the end corpses of more than 40 Viking men, including of creation and the final battle, in which all gods, one who may have been a king. All were in their all supernatural beings, and all humans and youth or prime of life—tall, muscular, strapping other living creatures die. Ragnarök was said to men—and many had seen savage fighting. Some begin with Fimbulwinter, a deadly time when the had been stabbed or hacked to death, others sun turns black and the weather turns bitter and decapitated. One man died after a sword took off treacherous—events that eerily parallel the dust the top of his head. veil that began in 536, Price says. On the sandy headland the survivors began When summer at last returned to the north the gruesome task of reassembling severed body and populations rebounded, Scandinavian soci- parts and arranging most of the dead men in the ety assumed a new, more truculent form. Leaders hull of the largest ship. Then they covered the surrounded themselves with heavily armed war bodies with cloth and raised a low, makeshift bands and began seizing and defending aban- burial mound by placing their wood and iron war doned territory. In this real-life Game of Thrones, shields over their slain comrades. a militarized society arose in which men and women alike celebrated the virtues of warfare— In 2008 a work crew laying an electrical cable fearlessness, aggression, cunning, strength under discovered human bones and bits of a corroded fire. On the Swedish island of Gotland, where ar- sword, and local authorities called in archae- chaeologists have found many intact graves from ologists. Today, sitting in his office at Uppsala this period, “almost every second man seems to University, Price marvels at the discovery. “This be buried with weapons,” notes John Ljungkvist, is the first time that archaeologists have ever been an archaeologist at Uppsala University. able to excavate what is clearly a Viking raid,” he says. More remarkable: The warriors laid to rest As this weaponized society was gradually at Salme, Estonia, died nearly 50 years before taking shape, a new technology began revolu- Scandinavian raiders descended on the English tionizing Scandinavian seafaring in the seventh monastery of Lindisfarne in 793, long thought to century—the sail. Skilled carpenters began con- have been the first Viking attack. structing sleek, wind-powered vessels capable of carrying bands of armed fighters farther and fast- Today the ship burials at Salme are creating a er than ever before. Aboard these ships, northern stir among Viking specialists. “What I find amaz- lords and their restless followers could voyage ing is all the swords,” Price says. Most researchers across the Baltic and North Seas, exploring new had long assumed that early Viking raiding parties lands, sacking towns and villages, and enslav- consisted of a few elite warriors armed with swords ing inhabitants. And men with few marriage and other costly war gear, as well as a few dozen prospects at home could take female captives as poor farm boys furnished with cheap spears or wives by persuasion or force. longbows. But that’s clearly not the case at Salme. The burials there contained more swords than All of this—centuries of kingly ambition, a NEW VISIONS OF THE VIKINGS 39
6WUXQJZLWKVLOYHURUQDPHQWVDQGJODVVEHDGVIURP 6FDQGLQDYLDDQGWKH%\\]DQWLQH(PSLUHWKLVFRORUIXO QHFNODFHVKRZVWKHORQJUHDFKRI9LNLQJWUDGHUV,W ZDVH[FDYDWHGIURPDEXULDOPRXQGLQ*QH]GRYRD EXV\\9LNLQJWUDGLQJKXERQ5XVVLDŠV'QLHSHU5LYHU 52%(57&/$5.3+272*5$3+('$767$7(+,6725,&$/086(80026&2: men, confirming that at least some early expedi- cultures, and some elites took pleasure in owning tions consisted of many warriors of high status. and using these status symbols. “The top men, they were dandies,” says Ashby. “It’s a society in ON A JANUARY MORNING in a quiet industrial which conspicuous consumption is important.” park south of Edinburgh, Scotland, researchers lead the way through locked doors to a small More Johnny Depp than Vin Diesel, Viking conservation lab. For more than a year, scien- leaders painted their eyes, pulled on flashy col- tists here have been unpacking the riches that ored clothing, and donned heavy jewelry—neck one Viking leader amassed from raiding and rings, dress pins, armbands, and finger rings. But ransacking in foreign lands. Buried some 1,100 this dress for excess had a serious purpose: Each years ago in southwest Scotland, the Galloway object told a story of foreign adventure, of reck- hoard is a collection of strange and beautiful lessness and courage rewarded. Fitted out in the things, from a solid-gold ingot to pieces of silk spoils of war, a Viking was a living recruitment samite cloth from the Byzantine or Islamic world poster for the raiding life, beckoning young men to an enameled Christian cross. Olwyn Owen, an to take an oath of loyalty in return for a share of independent archaeologist who specializes in booty. “Viking leaders couldn’t be bashful about the Viking age, says she’s never seen anything what they achieved, if they wanted to maintain a quite like it. “It’s an incredible find,” she says, power base,” Ashby says. “just incredible.” At the start of the Viking age, these raiders Today a conservator has laid out some of the targeted mainly coastal or island monasteries— rarities from the hoard. On the table there’s a armed, it seems, with advance intelligence. Scan- slender gold pin shaped like a bird. It resembles dinavian traders were already plying the coasts of an aestel, a small pointer that bishops and other Britain and Europe, and they quickly discovered members of the clergy once used to read sacred that the markets typically were held next to mon- texts. Nearby is a gold filigree pendant, possibly asteries. Strolling past stalls and sizing up the designed to hold a small relic of a saint. And, at goods, some would have spotted the silver chal- the end of the table, Owen gazes at nine silver ices and gold altar furniture adorning monastic brooches, some bearing swirling tendrils and chapels. “I don’t think it requires mental leaping mythical creatures, others strange humanlike to think there’s someone who finally says, ‘Guys, faces. All but one, says Owen, were designed why don’t we just nick the stuff?’” says Price. for Anglo-Saxon wearers. “In other words,” she concludes, “some Anglo-Saxon monastery or Early raiding parties planned their attacks for settlement had a very bad day.” the summer months, and they often set out with just a few ships and perhaps a hundred fighters. The Viking leader who carried off these trea- Bristling with iron weaponry, the raiders struck sures had a weakness for beautiful things. Rather rapidly and went about the carnage swiftly, set- than melting down all the plunder into bullion, ting sail before locals could mount a defense. In this Viking lord set aside several pieces for his per- France, in the ninth century alone, Viking raiders sonal collection of exotic, foreign art. The Vikings, stormed more than 120 settlements, massacring says archaeologist Steve Ashby with the Universi- monks and local inhabitants, stripping churches ty of York, had a taste for finer things from foreign of their treasures, and enslaving the survivors. “If you lived in northwest France in the late ninth 40 NAT I O NA L G E O G R A P H I C • M A RC H 2017
6OHHNZRRGHQYHVVHOVOLNHWKH*RNVWDG ship were key to the success of Viking WUDGHUVDQGUDLGHUV8QHDUWKHGLQ from a burial, the ninth-century ship ZDVSRZHUHGE\\VDLODQGRDUVPHQ 52%(57&/$5.3+272*5$3+('$79,.,1*6+,3086(80 086(802)&8/785$/+,6725<81,9(56,7<2)26/2
'LVFRYHUHGLQWKHJUDYHRIDQHOLWH9LNLQJPDQLQ Sweden, this decorated horse bit, part of a bridle, ZDVPDGHRILURQDQGJLOGHGEURQ]H$OWKRXJKWKH Vikings are best known for their longships, the ZHDOWK\\DQGSRZHUIXODOVRNHSWSUL]HGKRUVHV 52%(57&/$5.3+272*5$3+('$7*867$9,$1808336$/$81,9(56,7<086(80 century,” Price says, “you must have thought your This nameless Viking woman seems to have world was ending.” commanded the respect of many Viking war- riors. “On her lap she had gaming pieces,” says As rivers of precious metals flowed back to archaeologist Charlotte Hedenstierna-Jonson Scandinavia, young men flocked to the great of Uppsala University. “This suggests that she halls of Viking leaders, eager to swear their loyalty. was the one planning the tactics and that she What began as small raiding forays of two or three was a leader.” ships gradually evolved into fleets of 30 vessels, then many more. According to the Anglo-Saxon THE FLEETS THAT CARRIED death and de- Chronicle, a contemporary annal, hundreds of Vi- struction to western Europe also transported king ships arrived along the east coast of England slaves and commodities to markets scattered in 865, carrying a ravenous host that the Chronicle from Turkey to western Russia, and possibly Iran. writers called micel here, the great army. Pushing Medieval Arab and Byzantine officials described inland along England’s rivers and roads, these convoys of armed Viking slavers and merchants invaders began smashing Anglo-Saxon kingdoms known as the Rus who regularly voyaged along and seizing large swaths of land to colonize. river routes to the Black and Caspian Seas. “I have never seen more perfect physiques than theirs,” Just outside the modern city of Lincoln, observed Ahmad Ibn Fadlan, a 10th-century Arab archaeologist Julian D. Richards from the Univer- soldier and diplomat from Baghdad. “Every one sity of York is studying one of the winter camps of them carries an ax, a sword, and a dagger.” of the great army. The encampment, known as Torksey today, was large enough to accommo- To shed light on this southern trade, archaeol- date 3,000 to 4,000 people, but discoveries there ogists are now excavating sites along the routes to indicate that the great army was more than a the Byzantine and Muslim worlds. On a late June fighting force. Metalsmiths melted down plunder, morning some 230 miles southwest of Moscow, and merchants conducted trade. Children raced Veronika Murasheva, an archaeologist at the State through the muddy fields, and women went about Historical Museum in Moscow, walks the bank of their work—which may have included leading the Dnieper River where a small medieval city men in battle in some parts of the Viking world. once stood. Founded by Viking explorers more than 1,100 years ago, Gnezdovo lay along two One famous early Irish text records how a wom- major trade routes—the Dnieper, which flows an known as Inghen Ruaidh—or Red Girl, after into the Black Sea, and a skein of streams that the color of her hair—led a fleet of Viking ships sweeps into the Volga River, whose waters empty to Ireland in the 10th century. Bioarchaeologist into the Caspian Sea. Gnezdovo clearly profited Anna Kjellström of Stockholm University recent- from this geography, flourishing and eventually ly reanalyzed the skeletal remains of a Viking sprawling over an area the size of 30 city blocks. fighter found in the old trading center of Birka, in Sweden. Mourners had furnished the grave with Today Gnezdovo is mantled in forest and grass- an arsenal of deadly weapons, and for decades land, but over the past century and a half, Russian archaeologists assumed that the elite fighter was archaeologists have uncovered hill forts, hoards, male. But while studying the warrior’s pelvic caches, workshops, a harbor, and nearly 1,200 bones and mandible, Kjellström discovered that burial mounds that have produced rich artifacts. the man was in fact a woman. 42 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC • MARCH 2017
2YHUORRNLQJWKHVHDWKHUXLQVRID9LNLQJORQJKRXVHLQWKH6KHWODQG,VODQGVUHFDOODSURXGSDVW$IWHU GHIHDWLQJWKHORFDO3LFWLVKSHRSOH9LNLQJUDLGHUVWRRN6KHWODQGŠVƃQHVWODQGVIRUWKHLURZQ7KH\\EURXJKW 1RUVHODZVZLWKWKHPDQGUXOHGIRUQHDUO\\\\HDUVXQWLOD6FRWWLVKNLQJFODLPHGWKHDUFKLSHODJR ROBERT CLARK Gnezdovo, they discovered, was home to a wealthy their bills with heaps of silver coins known as dir- Viking elite who collected tribute from the local hams, a key source of wealth in the Viking world. Slavic population and who likely managed aspects of the southern commerce. Each year, after the By searching archaeological reports and data- spring thaw, Viking traders set off from Gnezdovo bases, Marek Jankowiak, a medieval historian in ships laden with luxury goods—furs, honey, at Oxford University, has found records of more beeswax, chunks of amber, walrus ivory—and than a thousand hoards of dirhams that Viking cargoes of human slaves. Many, says Murasheva, traders and others buried across Europe. Based were bound for the Black Sea and Constantinople, on an initial analysis, Jankowiak estimates that the capital of the Byzantine Empire and a city of Viking slavers could have sold tens of thousands more than 800,000 people at the time. In the heat of eastern European, mostly Slavic, captives into and dust Viking traders wandered the markets, bondage in the 10th century alone, earning mil- striking deals for their cargo and buying prized lions of silver dirhams—an immense fortune commodities: amphorae filled with wine and olive at the time. In the Viking world, where lords oil, fine glassware, colorful glazed plates, swatches regularly rewarded their fighting men with gifts of silk and other rare textiles. of silver, the road south was the road to power. Other Viking traders ventured farther east IN THE FIRELIT HALLS of the Norse lords, story- from Gnezdovo, following streams that wended tellers also described early voyages to the west. across western Russia into the Volga. In bazaars Gazing around at those assembled, they told the along the river and around the Caspian Sea, Mus- tale of a trader, Bjarni Herjólfsson, who lost his lim buyers paid handsomely for foreign slaves, way in thick fog while sailing from Iceland to since the Quran forbade believers from owning Greenland. When the mist finally lifted, Herjólfs- freeborn Muslims. The eastern buyers settled son and his men spied a new land that bore little NEW VISIONS OF THE VIKINGS 43
9LNLQJZDUULRUVIRXJKWIRUULFKHVDQGUHSXWDWLRQZLWKVZRUGVVXFKDVWKLVULJKW GLVFRYHUHGDW*QH]GRYR 5XVVLD:DUULRUVRIWHQFKRSSHGSOXQGHULQWRSLHFHVRISUHFLRXVPHWDOWKDWFRXOGEHXVHGOLNHFXUUHQF\\WR PDNHSXUFKDVHV%XWVRPH9LNLQJZDUULRUVYDOXHGWKHWUHDVXUHVWKH\\VWROHIRUWKHLUEHDXW\\ŞDQGDV FRYHWHGVWDWXVV\\PEROV7KHVH$QJOR6D[RQEURRFKHVDERYH DQGWKLVJROGELUGVKDSHGSLQEHORZ ZHUHGLVFRYHUHGLQDKRDUGEXULHGE\\DZHDOWK\\9LNLQJLQ6FRWODQG 52%(57&/$5.:,7+3(50,66,212)+,6725,&(19,5210(176&27/$1'ǘ7+,63$*(7+5((Ǚ 52%(57&/$5.3+272*5$3+('$767$7(+,6725,&$/086(80026&2:ǘ5,*+7Ǚ 44 NAT I O NA L G E O G R A P H I C • M A RC H 2017
&DPSLQJXQGHUFDQYDVDV9LNLQJDUPLHVRQFH GLGSDUWLFLSDQWVDWWKH6ODYDQG9LNLQJ)HVWLYDOLQ 3RODQGWHQGWREHVWLFNOHUVIRUDXWKHQWLFLW\\0DQ\\ adorn their bodies with tattoos, and some adopt D9LNLQJGLHWVODXJKWHULQJDQGURDVWLQJJDPH DAVID GUTTENFELDER
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