[Lonely Planet] Seoul

PDF Seoul PDF ebook Edition 8th Edition Release Date Jan 2016 Pages 232 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.

4 How to Use This Book easy-to-use Top Sights features provide in-depth sections coverage of the city’s very best sights. Plan Your Trip NAMDAEMUN MARKET Your planning tool kit Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: Photos, lists and suggestions to help you create your perfect trip. 1 SIGHTS 3 ENTERTAINMENT 5 EATING 7 SHOPPING Explore 6 DRINKING & 2 SPORTS & Your complete city guide NIGHTLIFE ACTIVITIES Top Sights features, in-depth All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, reviews and local tips. starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that Understand we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Get more from your trip Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price Learn about the big picture, so you range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference. can make sense of the city. These symbols and abbreviations give vital Survival Guide information for each listing: Your at-a-glance reference Must-visit recommendation Vital practical information to help Sustainable or green recommendation you have a smooth trip. No payment required plus % Telephone number f Ferry h Opening hours b Subway full-colour p Parking j Tram map section n Nonsmoking d Train a Air-conditioning apt apartments 212 212 213 213 i Internet access d double rooms W Wi-fi access d m dorm beds Key on p000 Key on p000 e e#0 # 0 200 m 200 m s Swimming pool q quad rooms A AB 0 0 0.1 miles 0.1 miles v Vegetarian selection r rooms gh hgSamPcahrekong E English-language menu s single rooms See map c Family-friendly ste suites p000 # Pet-friendly tr triple rooms ij ij BC CD D E EF FG GH H g Bus tw twin rooms .# .# See map Gyedong-gil SSaepme0Pcm0ah0raekpong See map p000 p000 Bukchon-ro 11 Gyedong-gil Yulgok-ro Yulgok-ro 1 1 INSA-DONG & AROUND INSA-DONG & AROUND Yunposeon-gil Bukchon-ro Yunposeon-gil 44 44 INSA-DONG & AROUND INSA-DONG & AROUND ## Seosulla-gil ¦# Anguk #¦ Anguk 47 ÿ# GWONGNONG-DO4N7Gÿ# GWONGNONG-DONG ò# ò# UNNI-DONG ÿ# UNNI-DONG ÿ# Gamgodang-gil Gamgodang-gil 45 45 2 2 ¦# Anguk GYYuEDlOgOoNNkG-GroU#¦N- Anguk 15 15 ÿ# 50 ÿ# 50 2 2 Yulgok-ro 55 # GYEV#ONGUN- V# Jongmyo Parkæ# 16 UnhDyeOoNngGung Unhyeongung 55 # Samil-daero Donhwamun-ro Donhwamun-ro æ# 16 Jongmyo Park Samil-daero 32 #û 32 #û Samil-daero 32-gil Samil-daero1342-gil #ï 53 #ï 53 #û â# 30 #ú 18 #ú 18 14 Insa-donIgns16a--dgiol ng 14-gil Insa-donI#ægn5s16a--dgiol ng 14-gil #û â# 5 30 #æ 3 3 8 3 8 3 æ# æ# 4 Ujeongguk-ro# 584IInNsSaJA-do-oDgâ#I4nn#ïOy1æ#sg0eNa5-1â#1Gs11-ag435i9l072#ú-g#þ#þ#ïil22In3s#8aI1n4-5ÿ##þ2sd8a8-o-gIIdnn#þNiolgs3n2#üSIagî#n4671-A-7sg1d#ú#þai-1#úl5oD-9I7d7nn#ï2O#1úoIæ#sn1g03#þnNas55#üg1â#a1IGn112-7s-d-a2gg4â#o3-ii8l9dln807#ú-o-gggn#þ#þii1gll202#ú2I-0Ingns3isal8a-I1nd64-ÿ##þ2sod-ag8-no-iggldIn#þinolgNs3n2#üIgaî#n4671A--7sg1d#ú#þGai1#úl5o-9W7d7n2#úoIgæ#On13#þn4s5#ügNa1I-n2-g7-sd-iDa2glâ#o4-ÿ#i8ldOn86o-ggNni1glG02#úI-0#þngsial-d6o-gniglInNsaA-dGoWngO4N-g-iDl4ÿ#O6NG#þ 26 û# 26 #û Seosulla-gil 2 2 â# -dong Jongmyo æ# Jongmyo #æ Jogye-sa Samil-daero 30-gil Samil-daero 30-gil Ujeongguk-ro # 42 æ# 1 52 #ï û# 31 û# 31 ô# 6 æ# ô# 6 #æ For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. 4 4 4 # 42 -dong IKSEON-DONG IKSEON-DONG 29 #û 29 û# Insa-dong 5-gil Insa-dong 5-gil 39 39 Donhwamun-ro 11-gil Jongno Jongno #ü 33 33 3-ga 3-ga #ü #ý #ý Donhwamun-ro ¦#11-gil #¦ 5 5 25 25 24 û# 24 û# 5 5 Sambong-ro #þ Sambong-ro #þ Donhwamun-ro Donhwamun-ro 34 34 Supyo-ro 11 á# 11 á# Samil-daero Supyo-ro Samil-daero 56 56 #ï #ï 66 Tapgol Tapgol 66 #æ 9 æ# 9 Park Park 13 ÷# 13 #÷ ô# ô# ñ# ñ# ¦# #¦ Jong-ro 43 # 43 # Jongno Jongno #¦ Jonggak #¦ Jonggak Jong-ro 3-ga 3-ga ÿ# ÿ# # 54 # 54 49 49 FG Namdaemun-ro 3 á# 3 á# Namdaemun-ro E EF 77 7 7 H #û 23 #û 23 Bibap 100m); Bibap 100m); Caffe Themselves (100m) Caffe Themselves (100m) D D A AB Piano Key Lane BC Piano Key Lane CD D GH

Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Seoul “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PL ANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Trent Holden, Simon Richmond

Contents PPllaannYYoouurrTTrriipp page 1 4 Welcome to Seoul����������� 4 Month by Month������������20 Eating���������������������������29 Seoul’s Top 10������������������ 6 With Kids������������������������ 23 Drinking & Nightlife����33 What’s New�������������������� 13 Like a Local�������������������� 24 Entertainment�������������36 Need to Know�����������������14 For Free�������������������������� 25 Shopping����������������������38 Top Itineraries����������������16 Courses & Tours������������26 Sports & Activities����� 41 If You Like…�������������������� 18 Hiking����������������������������� 28 Explore Seoul  44 Neighbourhoods at Western Seoul���������������84 Northern Seoul������������ 124 a Glance���������������������� 46 Itaewon & Around���������95 Gwanghwamun & Gangnam & South of Day Trips from Jongno-gu����������������������48 the Han River��������������� 106 Seoul�������������������������� 1 33 Dongdaemun & Myeong-dong & Eastern Seoul���������������118 Sleeping���������������������145 Jung-gu���������������������������71 Understand Seoul 155 Seoul Today����������������� 156 Food & Drink���������������� 163 Architecture����������������� 176 History�������������������������� 158 Religion & Culture��������172 Arts������������������������������� 179 Survival Guide  183 Transport��������������������� 184 Language��������������������� 194 Directory A–Z�������������� 188 Index���������������������������� 200 Seoul Maps  206

IZZET KERIBAR / GETTY IMAGES © WILL ROBB / GETTY IMAGES © (left) Jongno-gu p48 WIBOWO RUSLI / GETTY IMAGES © Explore the area’s mazelike streets (above) Gwangjang Market p122 Dine with locals at a food stall. (right) National Folk Museum of Korea p51 Learn about Korean history and culture. Northern Dongdaemun Seoul & Eastern p124 Seoul p118 Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu p48 Myeong-dong & Jung-gu p71 Western Seoul p84 Itaewon & Around p95 Gangnam & South of the Han River p106

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Seoul Fashion- and technology-forward but also deeply traditional, this dynamic city mashes up temples, palaces, cutting-edge design and mountain trails, all to a nonstop K-Pop beat. Historical Fragments Twenty-Four-Hour City Gaze down on this sprawling metropolis Whatever you want, at any time of day or of around 10 million people from atop any night, Seoul can provide. An early morn- of Seoul’s four guardian mountains and ing temple visit can lead to a palace tour you’ll sense the powerful pungsu-jiri (feng followed by tea sipping in Bukchon and shui) that has long nurtured and protected gallery-hopping in Samcheong-dong. Soju (a the city. History clings tenaciously to the vodkalike drink) and snacks in a street tent ‘Miracle on the Han’, a phoenix arisen bar will fuel you for shopping at the buzzing from the ashes of the Korean War just over Dongdaemun or Namdaemun night mar- 60 years ago. So while Seoul has its eye kets, partying in Hongdae or Itaewon, or clearly on the future, you’ll also encounter playing online games at a PC bang (internet fascinating fragments of the past in World gaming room). Follow this with steaming, Heritage–­listed sites such as Jongmyo soaking and snoozing in a jjimjil-bang shrine, the alleys between the graceful (sauna and spa). By the time you look at hanok (traditional wooden homes) that your watch, it will be dawn again. cluster in Bukchon, and striding along the magnificent city walls. Design Matters Beyond the Walls Over the last decade Seoul has worked hard to soften its industrial hard edges into an Public transport is brilliant, so there’s no appealing urban ideal of parks, culture excuse for not stretching your travel hori- and design. Glass, concrete and steel are zons beyond the city limits. The fearsome crafted into natural forms at the spectacu- Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), splitting South lar Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park and from North Korea, exerts a powerful attrac- the new City Hall. The popularity of the tion and is well worth visiting. Nearby is the beautifully landscaped parks alongside the charming arts and culture village of Heyri. central Cheong-gye stream and the Han To the west, Incheon is a fascinating port River has spurred on the creation of more where the modern world came flooding into green spaces and cycle routes. Join Seoul­ Korea at the end of the 19th century, while ites enjoying time out shopping in stylish to the south is Suwon, home to impressive boutiques and drinking at cool cafes and World Heritage–listed fortifications. convivial bars.

JOHN W BANAGAN / GETTY IMAGES © Why I Love Seoul By Simon Richmond, Writer Seoul is heaven for passionate foodies. Whether tucking into the snacks of commoners or the cuisine of kings, you just can’t lose. A hanjeongsik (multicourse banquet) is a feast as much for the eyes as the tummy, as are the creations of chefs crafting neo-Korean dishes. Equally satisfying is scoffing down piping-hot, crispy hotteok (pancakes with sweet or savoury fillings) on a street corner, or delicious, fresh and fiery crab soup in Noryangjin Fish Market. And don’t get me started on the wonderful universe of teas served in charm- ing teahouses: this is where the soul of Seoul lies. For more about our writers, see p232. Top: Traditional drummers

6 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Seoul’s Top 10

7 Cheong-gye-cheon (p56) Bukchon Hanok Village (p53) 1 A raised highway was demolished and 2 In a city at the cutting edge of 21st- the ground dug up to ‘daylight’ this century technology, where apartment long-buried stream. It transformed Seoul’s living is the norm, this neighbourhood centre, creating a riverside park and walk- stands as a testament to an age of craft ing course that’s a calm respite from the when Seoulites lived in one-storey wooden surrounding commercial hubbub. Public hanok (traditional wooden homes), com- art is dotted along the banks and many plete with graceful tiled roofs and internal events are held here, including a spec- courtyard gardens. Get lost wandering the tacular lantern festival in November, when labyrinthine streets, squished between two thousands of glowing paper-and-paint major palaces and rising up the foothills of sculptures are floated in the water. There’s Bukaksan. Take in the views and pause to a museum where you can learn about the pop into a cafe, art gallery, craft shop or history of the Cheong-gye-cheon. small private museum along the way. 1 Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu 1 Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu RICHARD NEBESKY / GETTY IMAGES © JANE SWEENEY / JAI / CORBIS ©

PENBOY / GETTY IMAGES © SEONGJOON CHO / GETTY IMAGES © 8 PL AN YOUR TRIP S e o u l’ s T o p 10

9 PL AN YOUR TRIP S e o u l’ s T o p 10 PHOTOGRAPH BY KANGHEEWAN / GETTY IMAGES © Changdeokgung Gwang jang Namsan & N Seoul Market (p122) Tower (p73) (p52) 4 This is one of Seoul’s 5 Protected within a 3 The ‘Palace of Illustri- best markets. During 109-hectare park and ous Virtue’ was built the day, Gwangjang Market crowned by N Seoul Tower, in the early 15th century is known as a place for trad- one of Seoul’s most distinc- as a secondary palace to ing in secondhand clothes tive architectural features, Gyeongbokgung. These and fabrics. But it’s at night Namsan is the most central days this Unesco World that it really comes into of the city’s four guardian Heritage–listed property its own, when some of its mountains. Locals actively exceeds it in beauty and alleys fill up with vendors patronise the park, keeping grace – partly because so selling all manner of street fit and taking in the cooler, many of its buildings were eats. Stewed pig trotters sweeter air on hiking paths actually lived in by royal- and snouts, gimbap (rice, to the summit, including family members well into vegies and ham wrapped in one that follows the line the 20th century. The most rice and rolled in sheets of of the old Seoul city walls. charming section is the Hu- seaweed) and bindaetteok The summit itself is highly won, a ‘secret garden’ that (plate-sized crispy pan- commercial but still worth is a royal horticultural idyll. cakes of crushed mung visiting; you won’t just be Book well ahead to snag beans and vegies fried on a marvelling at the view, but one of the limited tickets to skillet) are all washed down also at the multitude of view this special palace on with copious amounts of inscribed padlocks that the moonlight tours held makgeolli and soju (local adorn the railings here – all during full-moon nights in liquors). signifying lovers’ devotion. the warm months. 5 Dongdaemun & 1 Myeong-dong & 1 Gwanghwamun & Eastern Seoul Jung-gu Jongno-gu

10 Lotus Lantern Festival (p21) Hongdae (p84) 6 A week never passes in Seoul without 7 The area around Hongik University, some major festival or event. One of Korea’s leading art and design institu- the most spectacular, that is well worth tion, has long acted as a magnet for young, building your travel plans around, is the Lo- independent and creatively minded Ko­ tus Lantern Festival, which happens in May reans. Hongdae is packed with quirky bars in celebration of the Buddha’s birthday. and cafes, jazzy boutiques, and cramped, For weeks around this time, temples are smoky dance and live-music clubs where strung with hundreds of rainbow-hued pa- kids bop around to the latest K-Indie per lanterns, a sight in itself. The highlight thrash bands and crooners. Come here is a dazzling night-time parade that snakes to sample gourmet ice cream and artisan its way through the city from Dongguk Uni- coffee, and pick up a cool craft souvenir at versity to Jogye-sa, involving thousands Saturday’s Free Market. The vibe is infec- of participants and every shape, size and tious and has spilled over into neighbour- colour of lantern. BELOW: JOGYE-SA (P55) ing Sangsu-dong and Yeonnam-dong. z Month by Month RIGHT: HANDPAINTED LIGHTERS AT FREE MARKET (P94) 7 Western Seoul MAREMAGNUM / GETTY IMAGES © PL AN YOUR TRIP S e o u l’ s T o p 10

MARTIN ROBINSON / GETTY IMAGES © 11PL AN YOUR TRIP S e o u l’ s T o p 10 NARONGSAK NAGADHANA / SHUTTERSTOCK © The Demilitarized Zone (p134) 8 It’s known as the De- militarized Zone (DMZ). However, this 4km-wide, 250km-long heavily mined and guarded border, splitting a hostile North from South Korea is anything but. An entrenched symbol of the Cold War, the border has be- come a surreal tourist draw. The tension is most palpable in the Joint Security Area (JSA), the neutral space cre- ated after the 1953 Armistice for the holding of peace talks, which can only be visited on an organised tour. Observa- tion points dotted along the DMZ also allow peeks into the secretive North. LEFT: FREEDOM BRIDGE (P135) 1 Day Trips from Seoul

12 JIPEN / SHUTTERSTOCK © PL AN YOUR TRIP S e o u l’ s T o p 10Heyri (p136) 9 So peaceful and laid-back is the arty MARTIN MOOS / GETTY IMAGES © village of Heyri that it’s hard to compre- hend that less than 10km north is the heavily fortified border with North Korea. Conceived as a ‘book village’ connected to the nearby publishing centre of Paju Book City, this low-rise contemporary community is home to artists, writers, architects and other cre­ ative souls. There are scores of small art galleries, cafes, boutiques and quirky pri- vate collections turned into mini museums. With several pleasant, design-savvy places to stay, it makes for the perfect short break from Seoul, less than an hour away by ex- press bus. 1 Day Trips from Seoul Dongdaemun (p120) 10 Historical and contemporary Seoul stand side by side in this eternally buzzing and sprawling market area. A facelift to Heunginjimun (aka Dongdaemun) has left the old east gate to the city looking grander than it has done in decades. Sections of the old city walls that the gate was once connected to have been uncovered and form part of the Dongdaemun History & Culture Park. Rising up behind this is the sleek, silvery form of the Zaha Hadid–designed Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park, an architectural show- stopper that could hardly be more 21st century in its conception. 1 Dongdaemun & Eastern Seoul

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 13 What’s New Contemporary Art Insa‑dong Maru Galleries Track down Korean crafts, fashion and homewares at this slick shopping complex; Samcheong‑dong has consolidated its arty in the basement gorge on the buffet feast reputation with the opening of MMCA at Bibigo Gyejeolbabsang. (p69) Seoul, a city‑centre branch of the excel‑ lent contemporary‑art gallery that has its Mullae Arts Village main base at Gwacheon. But also priori‑ Go on a street‑art safari around the war‑ tise a visit to the nearby Arario Museum ren of small metalwork factories that is in SPACE, a labyrinthine showcase for beginning to rub shoulders with artists’ key works of Korean and international and design studios. (p88) contemporary art by the likes of Korea’s Lee Dongwook, Japan’s Kohei Nawa and Craft Beer Bars Britain’s Tracey Emin. (p59) Spreading its reach from ‘Craft Beer Valley’ in Noksapyeong, the microbrew revolution City Hall continues to gain a head of steam with Head downstairs from the giant glass wave artisan beer‑makers opening bars in Hong‑ that looms over new City Hall to Citizens dae, Gangnam and beyond. (p102) Hall for multimedia exhibitions, an archae‑ ology museum and design shops. (p76) Makgeolli Revival Traditional Korean alcoholic beverages Korea Furniture Museum such as the low‑alcohol rice wine makgeolli A hillside compound of traditional Korean come to the fore in new speciality bars and buildings and gardens is the gorgeous appreciation groups Makgeolli Makers and frame for a top‑notch collection of furni‑ Makgeolli Mamas & Papas. (p166) ture showcasing local craft. (p126) War & Women’s Human Rights Lotte World Tower & Mall Museum The megamall is already open at the base Learn the tragic history of sexual slavery of what will be Korea’s tallest building across East Asia during WWII and of the with a 122nd‑floor observatory. (p117) ongoing problems women face in conflict zones. (p86) Seochon Seoul City Wall Museum Scattered with hanok (traditional wooden Multimedia displays detail the history of homes), this neighbourhood immediately Seoul’s 14th‑century city wall. There’s also west of Gyeongbokgung is blossoming with a model of Sungnyemun Gate made from trendy galleries, cafes and boutiques. Lego. (p121) Dongjin Market For more recommendations North of Hongdae, this Saturday craft and and reviews, see lonelyplanet. secondhand clothes market is surrounded com/south‑korea/seoul by cafes, bars and casual eateries. (p94)

14 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p183) Currency Daily Costs Advance Planning Korean won (₩) Budget: Two months before Start Less than ₩100,000 learning hangeul (the Korean Languages phonetic alphabet) and train for ¨¨Dorm bed: ₩20,000 hiking up mountains. If visiting Korean and English ¨¨Street food: ₩1000– April to June, book for Moonlight ₩5000 Tours of Changdeokgung. Visas ¨¨Local beer per bottle: Three weeks before Plan itiner- ₩3000 ary, checking to see if there are Australian, UK, US and most ¨¨Hiking up Namsan: free any events or festivals you may Western European citizens ¨¨Entry to National Museum of be able to attend; book DMZ receive a 90-day entry permit on Korea: free tour and templestay program. arrival. ¨¨Subway ticket: ₩1400 One week before Make reserva- tion at any top-end restaurants, Money Midrange: ₩100,000– buy tickets to any concerts you ₩300,000 may want to attend. ATMs widely available. Credit cards accepted by most busi- ¨¨Hanok guesthouse: Useful Websites nesses, but some smaller food ₩70,000 places and markets are cash only. ¨¨Food walking tour: ₩60,000 ¨¨Visit Seoul (www.visit ¨¨Entry to Gyeongbokgung: seoul.net) The official Mobile Phones ₩3000 government site to everything ¨¨Galbi (barbecued meat) about the city. South Korea uses the CDMA digi- meal: ₩50,000 ¨¨Seoul (http://magazine. tal standard; check compatibility ¨¨Theatre ticket: ₩40,000 seoulselection.com) Online with your phone provider. Phones version of the monthly can be hired at the airport and Top End: magazine with its finger on the elsewhere. More than ₩300,000 city’s pulse. ¨¨Lonely Planet (www.lonely Time ¨¨Hotel: ₩200,000 planet.com/seoul) Destination ¨¨Royal Korean banquet: information, hotel bookings, GMT/UTC plus nine hours. No ₩70,000 traveller forum and more. daylight saving. ¨¨Scrub and massage at top- notch spa: ₩60,000 Tourist Information ¨¨Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) tour: ₩100,000 Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center (%02- 778 0333; http://blog.naver.com/ mdtic1129; 66, Eulji-ro, Jung-gu; h9am-8pm; bLine 2 to Euljiro 1-ga, Exit 6) is centrally located.

15 WHEN TO GO °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 16/400 Spring and autumn are uniformly 30/86 12/300 PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K no w pleasant; summer 20/68 8/200 is sweltering and 10/50 4/100 muggy; and winters 0/32 nasty and long. Typhoons are a -10/14 MAM J 0 possib­ ility from late JF J ASOND June to September. Arriving in Seoul Getting Around Sleeping Incheon International Airport Buy a T-Money card There are plenty of budget A’REX express trains to Seoul (₩2500; http://eng.t-m­ oney. guesthouses and five-star station ₩8000 (43 minutes); co.kr), which provides a pamper palaces, but reserve commuter trains ₩4250 (53 ₩100 discount per trip on well in advance especially if minutes). Bus to city-centre bus, subway, taxi and train visiting during busy Asian hotels from ₩9000 (one hour); fares. travel seasons, such as Chi- taxi around ₩65,000. ¨¨Subway The best way to nese New Year and Japan’s Gimpo International Airport get around, with an extensive Golden Week holidays (usu- A’REX trains run to Seoul station network, frequent services and ally the end of April/early (₩1300, 15 minutes) or take the inexpensive fares. May). Rates at the cheaper subway (₩1450, 35 minutes). ¨¨Bus Handy for routes places usually include the Both bus (from ₩5000) and around Namsan; less so for 10% government tax, but taxi (around ₩35,000) will be other places. many midrange and top- slower – around 40 minutes to ¨¨Taxi Best for short trips; end hotels quote without an hour, depending on traffic. basic fare starts at ₩3000 for this amount. The top-end Seoul Station Long-distance the first 2km. places also add another trains arrive at this centrally ¨¨Bicycle Hire for pedaling 10% for service. located terminal; a taxi ride to along the Han River and most nearby hotels will be under through Olympic Park. Useful Websites ₩5000. ¨¨Car Hire Useful only for long trips out of the city; budget ¨¨Korean Hotel Reservation For much more on from ₩80,000 per day. Center (www.khrc.com) Check arrival, see p184 for low rates on top-end hotels. For much more on ¨¨Best Guesthouse in Seoul getting around, (www.guesthouseinseoul.org) see p186 Local guesthouses reviewed. ¨¨Lonely Planet (www. lonelyplanet.com/seoul) Expert author reviews, user feedback, booking engine. SEOUL ADDRESSES For much more on sleeping, see p145 Korea’s new address system consists of logically numbered houses on named streets – you’ll notice numbered blue plaques on most buildings now and clear street signs in Korean and English. However, locals generally don’t know the new street names, and old-style addresses are still used on some business cards and websites. To convert an old address to a new one go to http://eng.juso.go.kr/openEngPage.do. For more on addresses, see p190.

16 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Top Itineraries Day One Day Two Gwanghwamun & Itaewon & Around (p95) Jongno-gu (p48) M Survey centuries of Korean history M Start your tour of Gyeongbokgung and art by selectively dipping into the at the palace’s expertly restored main vast collection of the National Museum gate, Gwanghwamun, where you can watch of Korea. Shuttle over to the west side of the pageantry of the changing of the guard Yongsan-gu to enjoy the contemporary art on the hour. Explore the winding streets and architecture at the splendid Leeum of Bukchon Hanok Village and Insa- Samsung Museum of Art. dong, pausing for refreshments at a cafe or teahouse in between browsing the equally Lunch Tuck into southern American ubiquitous art galleries and craft stores in barbecue at Linus’ BBQ (p100). these areas. Myeong-dong & Jung-gu (p71) Lunch Dine cheaply at Tobang (p64) or in style at Min’s Club (p66). R Browse some of Itaewon’s boutiques then, for a postlunch workout, hike Gwanghwamun & up Namsan to N Seoul Tower. It’s not Jongno-gu (p48) a difficult climb, but if you don’t have the energy then there’s a cable car or a bus. It’s R Join the afternoon tour of very romantic watching the sunset from Changdeokgung, which also in- atop this central mountain as the night cludes the Huwon (Secret Garden). Explore lights of Seoul flicker to life. Freshen up with the wooded grounds of the venerable shrine a steam in the saunas and a soak in the tubs Jongmyo, housing the spirit tablets of the at the Dragon Hill Spa & Resort. Joseon kings and queens. Dinner Savour delicious bibimbap at Dinner Sample Korean street food at Mokmyeoksanbang (p78). Gwangjang Market (p122). Itaewon & Around (p95) Myeong-dong & Jung-gu (p71) N Explore Itaewon after dinner for a N Take your seat at a fun nonverbal fun night of hopping between cafes, show such as Nanta or Jump. Be bars and dance clubs. dazzled by the bright lights and retail over- load of Myeong-dong and neighbouring Namdaemun Market, where the stalls stay open all night.

17 Gyeongbokgung (p50) PL A N YO U R TRI P T o p I tin e r a r i e sInsa-dong (p59) Day Three Day Four ANGELO DESANTIS / GETTY IMAGES © WIBOWO RUSLI / GETTY IMAGES © Northern Seoul (p124) Western Seoul (p84) M Reflect on the struggles and sac- M Both contemporary art and pano- rifices of Koreans to overcome ramic views up and down the Han colonialism and create a modern country can be enjoyed at 63 Sky Art Gallery at Seodaemun Prison History Hall. on Yeouido. Hire a bicycle in Hangang Afterwards, hike up nearby Inwangsan Riverside Park and pedal out to Seonyudo for fabulous views of the city, surreal rock Park on an island in the Han River. formations and the other-worldly shaman- istic rituals of Inwangsan Guksadang. Lunch Pick your seafood and have it cooked at Noryangjin Fish Market (p90). Lunch Fuel up on a Korean vegetarian feast at Deongjang Yesool (p130). Northern Seoul (p124) Western Seoul (p84) R Keep on shadowing the Seoul City R If you’re interested in contem- Wall down to Buam-dong and over porary architecture, then Ewha Bukaksan and to Seongbuk-dong, a hike Womans University’s stunning entrance of around two hours. Catch your breath building and KT&G SangsangMadang and rest your feet in the beautiful teahouse in Hongdae are both worth seeing. Hong- dae and neighbouring Sangsu-dong and Dinner Journey to Central Asia with Yeonnam-dong are brimming with hipster lamb shashlik at Samarkand (p122). hang-outs; if it’s Saturday you can shop for quirky, original craft souvenirs at the Suyeon Sanbang, and the equally serene Free Market or Dongjin Market. A late-­ surrounds of the temple Gilsang-sa. afternoon visit to the atmospheric Bud- dhist temple Bongeun-sa can segue nicely Dinner Treat yourself to neo-Korean cuisine at Jungsik (p113). Dongdaemun & into browsing the boutiques of Apgu- jeong, Cheongdam or Garosu-gil. Eastern Seoul (p118) Gangnam & South N If your hiking legs haven’t given of the Han River (p106) out, it’s only another hour or so following the City Wall over Naksan and N After dinner pitch up at the Banpo down to Dongdaemun, where the night Hangang Park by 9pm to see the market will just be starting to crank up day’s last floodlit flourish of the Banpo (alternatively take the subway). Admire the 21st-century architectural styling of Dong- daemun Design Plaza & Park, then trawl the market stalls for a new outfit.

18 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd If You Like… Contemporary Lotte World Tower & Mall Deoksugung The one where Architecture Rising up to 123 floors, this super Korea’s last emperor lived and skyscraper is set to be the penin- sipped coffee. (p75) Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park sula’s tallest building. (p117) Unhyeongung The one where Zaha Hadid’s building is straight you can watch a traditional music out of a sci-fi fantasy. (p120) Palaces performance on Fridays. (p60) City Hall This giant glass wave is a reinterpretation of traditional Changdeokgung The most Major Museums Korean design. (p76) attract­ ive one, with a ‘secret garden’. (p52) National Museum of Korean Ewha Womans University Gyeongbokgung The biggest one, Contemporary History Walk Dominique Perrault’s stunning with extra museums and a chang- through a visual record of the main entrance dives six storeys ing of the guard. (p50) country’s recent past. (p57) underground. (p86) Changgyeonggung The one with National Museum of Korea Tangent Daniel Libeskind–­ a beautiful pond and elegant Packed with national treasures designed building that’s like a greenhouse. (p127) spanning the centuries. (p97) work of art. (p178) MAREMAGNUM / GETTY IMAGES © Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park (p120)

19 Seoul Museum of History Learn Bongeun-sa Join the Templelife For more top Seoul spots, PL A N YO U R TRI P I f Y o u L ike … how much the city has changed program here every Thursday see the following: over the last century. (p57) afternoon. (p110) ¨¨Eating (p29) National Folk Museum of Korea Gilsang-sa Former exclusive ¨¨Drinking & Nightlife (p33) Fascinating exhibits indoors and restaurant turned into a serene ¨¨Entertainment (p36) in the palace grounds. (p51) temple in the hills. (p129) ¨¨Shopping (p38) War Memorial of Korea Masses Sajikdan Stone altar in a tran- ¨¨Sports & Activities (p41) of military-related displays and quil park where devotees prayed good exhibits on the Korean for good harvests. (p59) War. (p98) Mountains, Hiking Traditional Quirky Museums & City Wall Architecture & Experiences Bukaksan Start your circuit of Hanok Guesthouses The best Lock Museum Exhibits locks the City Wall by hiking up the way to experience a hanok as both lovely works of art and tallest of Seoul’s four guardian (traditional wooden house) is to fearsome apparatuses, such as mountains. (p132) stay overnight in one. (p145) a medieval chastity belt. (p127) Naksan Heading east, the low- Namsangol Hanok Village Five Dragon Hill Spa & Resort Strip est of the guardian mountains differing yangban (upper-class) down and join relaxing Koreans with the arty neighbourhood of houses are in this park at the for a communal sweat, steam Ihwa-dong on its slopes. (p127) foot of Namsan. (p77) and full-body scrub. (p105) Namsan The mountain at the Korean Folk Village A gathering heart of the city, criss-crossed of some 260 thatched and Seoul Yangnyeongsi Herb with hiking trails and walking tiled traditional buildings from Medicine Museum Learn about paths. (p73) around the country. (p138) your yin, yang and Sasang Inwangsan Climb up past weirdly Bukchon Hanok Village Around constitution. (p121) eroded rocks and giant boulders 900 hanok make this Seoul’s larg- for brilliant views. (p132) est hanok neighbourhood. (p53) Gwacheon National Science Ansan One of the best spots to Museum Catch the hourly catch the sunrise, with a lower- Art Galleries robot dance show performing level walking path. (p132) Gangnam-style. (p112) Suwon Hike around the World Seoul has scores of commercial Samsung D’Light Techno-geek Heritage–listed City Wall in this art galleries and most offer free heaven offers a glimpse at the town south of Seoul. (p137) exhibitions. (p58) gadgets of tomorrow. (p112) Leeum Samsung Museum of Modern Design Museum Fasci- Religious Buildings Art Three top architect-­designed nating private collection tracing buildings and a stunning col- the history of modern design in Jogye-sa Home to Daeungjeon, lection of art from ancient to Korea. (p86) the largest Buddhist temple contemporary. (p99) building in Seoul. (p55) Arario Museum in SPACE Parks & Gardens Amazing contemporary art in a Myeong-dong Catholic Cathe- sleekly converted iconic 1970s Olympic Park Home to a dral Gothic-style cathedral with building. (p59) 1700-year-old earth fort and over a vaulted ceiling and stained- National Museum of Modern 200 quirky sculptures. (p108) glass windows. (p78) and Contemporary Art The Seoul Forest Expansive park by best reason for making the trek the Han River with wetlands and Jeoldusan Martyrs’ Shrine out to Seoul Grand Park. (p112) Sika deer. (p121) Memorial museum and church MMCA Seoul The new city-centre Seonyudo Park Beautiful park dedicated to Korea’s Catholic branch of the National Museum and gardens on an island in the martyrs and saints. (p86) of Contemporary Art. (p59) Han River. (p89) Inwangsan Guksadang Seoul’s Seoul Museum of Art Good ex- Seonjeongneung Park housing most famous shamanist shrine. hibitions in the former Supreme the tombs of two Korean kings (p130) Court building. (p77) and one queen. (p110)

20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Month by Month TOP EVENTS in Seoul during this time, and performances range held at the major palaces from dance and drama to Jongmyo Daeje, May as well as the Korean Folk music and installations. Lotus Lantern Festival Village, Namsangol Hanok (Yeon Deung Ho), May Village and the National 1 Hangang Yeouido Seoul Fringe Festival, Folk Museum of Korea. August For more information, see Spring Flower Festival Sajik Daeje, September www.visitseoul.net or www. One of the best places to Seoul Lantern Festival, visitkorea.or.kr. Celebra- experience the blossom­ November tions start on 8 February ing trees and flowers 2016, 28 January 2017 and is Yeouido (www.ydp. January 16 February 2018. go.kr). Other good spots include Namsan and Ewha Wrap up well against April Womans University, and very chilly weather as Jeongdok Public Library in temperatures in Seoul can It can still be cold Samcheong-dong. drop to below -10°C (14°F). and wet in spring, so It’s a good time for trips come prepared. Nature 1 Royal Wedding to nearby ski resorts. determines the exact timing, but early April Ceremony of King z Seollal is generally when parts Gojong and Empress of Seoul turn pink in a Myeongseong (Lunar New Year) transient flurry of delicate A re-enactment of the royal Seoul empties out as locals cherry blossoms. wedding ceremony of King make the trip to their home Gojong, the last king of town to visit relatives, 3 Festival Bom the Joseon dynasty, and honour ancestors and eat Empress Myeongseong traditional foods over this Bom means ‘spring’ in Ko- (Queen Min) is held on the three-day national festival. rean and that’s when this third Saturday in April That said, there are a num- citywide festival of the arts at Unhyeongung (www. ber of events for travellers (www.festivalbom.org) oc- unhyeongung.or.kr), where curs. Both local and inter­ the original ceremony took national artists take part place on 21 March 1866. LUNAR CALENDAR May Local religious holidays and festivals, such as Seollal, Buddha’s birthday brings follow the lunar calendar, while the rest follow the a kaleidoscope of light Greg­orian (Western) calendar. Dates have been given and colour, as rows of for upcoming years. delicate paper lanterns, lit at dusk, are strung along

3 Korean 3 Seoul 21 the main thoroughfares Queer Festival Fringe Festival PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month and in temple courtyards. Seoul’s LGBTIQ community One of Seoul’s best emerges from the shadows performing-arts festivals z Jongmyo Daeje for a series of citywide (http://eng.seoulfringe events, including a parade, festival.net), when local and Held on the first Sunday of street party and film fes- inter­national artists con- the month, this ceremony tival. For details see www. verge on the Hongdae area (www.jongmyo.net) honours kqcf.org. to flee the mainstream. Korea’s royal ancestors. It involves a solemn costumed z Dano Festival September parade from Gyeongbok- gung through downtown Held according to the lunar Apart from the following Seoul to the royal shrine at calendar (on 10 June in you can also catch Jongmyo, where spectators 2016), this festival features a rerun of the royal can enjoy traditional music shamanist rituals and wedding ceremony at and an elaborate, all-day mask dances at several Unhyeongung on the third ritual. locales, including Namsan- Saturday of the month. gol Hanok Village and the z Lotus Lantern National Folk Museum of z Sajik Daeje Korea. Festival (Yeon Held at Sajikdan on the Deung Ho) July third Sunday of the month, Seoul’s Buddhist temples, the ‘Great Rite for the Gods such as Jogye-sa and Pack heavy-duty rain gear of Earth and Agriculture’ is Bongeun-­sa, are the focus and waterproof shoes, one of Seoul’s most impor- of this celebration of as this is when Seoul tant ancestral rituals. The Buddha’s birthday (cele­ experiences a month of ceremonies, which include brated on 14 May 2016, 3 monsoonlike rains. offerings of fresh meat and May 2017 and 22 May 2018). produce, are performed in The weekend preceding the 3 Bucheon traditional costumes to live birthday, Seoul celebrates music played by a court with a huge daytime street International orchestra. festival and evening lantern Fantastic Film parade – the largest in Festival (BiFan) z Chuseok South Korea; see www.llf. Held in Bucheon, just out- or.kr for details. side of Seoul, BiFan (www. The Harvest Moon Festival bifan.kr) is a feast of the is a major three-day holiday 3 Seoul best in movie sci-fi, fantasy when families gather, eat and horror. Theatres are crescent-shaped rice cakes International Cartoon within walking distance and visit their ancestors’ & Animation Festival of Songnae station (Line 1, graves to make offerings (SICAF) towards Incheon). of food and drink and per- Half a million animation form sebae (a ritual bow). geeks pack auditoriums August Begins 14 September in in Seoul each year to see 2016, 3 October 2017 and 23 why the city is an epicentre The rain abates and is September in 2018. of animation (fans of The replaced by sweltering Simpsons have Korean humidity. Cool off in 3 Seoul artists to thank). See www. Seoul’s parks and public sicaf.org for details. areas: there are free Drum Festival outdoor concerts most Focusing on Korea’s fantas- June nights in Seoul Plaza and tic percussive legacy, this many free events held in three-day international The hot weather and the parks along the Han event (www.seouldrum. period before the rains of River. go.kr) in Seoul Plaza brings July mean this is a great together all kinds of ways time to enjoy Seoul’s to make a lot of noise. outdoors.

22 (Top and bottom) Lotus Lantern Festival (p21), Cheong-gye-cheon (p56) October GLENN SUNDEEN - TIGERPAL / GETTY IMAGES © Autumn is a great time to PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month visit Seoul, particularly if you like hiking, as this JANE SWEENEY / GETTY IMAGES © is the season when the mountains run through a palate of rustic colours. 1 Korea International Art Fair (KIAF) Held at COEX, KIAF (www. kiaf.org) is one of the re- gion’s top art fairs and a good opportunity to get a jump on the country’s hot new artists. z Seoul International Fireworks Festival Best viewed from Yeouido Hangang Park, this festival (www.hanwhafireworks. com/eng) sees dazzling fireworks displays staged by both Korean and inter­ national teams. 3 Asia Song Festival This mega K-Pop event (www.asiasongf­ estival. com) at Jamsil Stadium includes performances by star hallyu (Korean Wave) bands and singers (mean- ing ones that have become popular outside of Korea), such as Girls’ Genera­ tion and Super Junior. November z Seoul Lantern Festival Centred on the Cheong-gye- cheon, this festival (http:// blog.naver.com/seoul lantern) sees the stream- park illuminated by gigan- tic, fantastic lanterns made by master craftspeople.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 23 With ing dressing up in traditional costumes Kids or having a go at taekwondo happen at Namsangol Hanok Village (p77). Older kids and teenagers will likely want to visit places such as the Seoul Animation Center (p77) to learn more about local animated TV seri­es and films, or Samsung D’Light (p112) to play with the latest digi- tal technology. Nonverbal shows such as Nanta and Jump (p82) are great family entertainment. Children are more than Park & Animal Life welcome in Seoul: this is a safe and family-friendly city with At the theme parks Lotte World (p109) plenty of interesting museums and Everland (p138), family entertain- (including several devoted to ment comes in megasized portions. Easier kids themselves), as well as parks, on the wallet are the scores of free open amusement parks and fun events spaces that constitute Seoul’s wealth of that will appeal to all age groups. city-m­ anaged parks – places such as Seoul Forest (p121), Olympic Park (p108) and K-Pop Rules the string of bicycle-lane-connected parks that hug the Han River’s banks (p87). Each The best way to cut down on child summer six big outdoor-pool complexes grumbles in Seoul is to mix your sampling open in the Han River parks, too. of traditional Korean culture with things that the kids are more likely to enjoy. For- Animal cafes, several of which are clus- tunately, thanks to the global appeal of lo- tered in Hongdae (p92), are likely to ap- cal pop culture, the young ones are likely to peal too – your kids can spend quality time be more au fait with contemporary Korean with pet cats, dogs and even sheep. pop culture than you are! Be prepared to search out shops stocking Girls’ Generation Need to Know posters, DVDs of Korean TV soap opera­ s such as Boys Over Flowers, or manhwa Sleeping & Eating (Korean comics and graphic novels). Kyobo Korean-style ondol rooms are ideal for Bookshop (p68) is a good place to start. families, as everyone sleeps on a yo (floor mattress) in the same space. Children are welcome in restaurants, but few places will have kids’ menus; there’s no shortage of the usual fast-food franchises if all else fails. High chairs are not common. Babysitting A few top hotels and residences can ar- range babysitting services. Educational Experiences Festivals On Children’s Day (5 May) there are special Museums and other traditional culture events for kids across the city. centres don’t need to be boring. The Na- tional Museum of Korea (p97) and the More Information National Folk Museum (p51) have fun, Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children is hands-on children’s sections, and the War good for general advice. Korea 4 Expats. Memorial of Korea (p98) has outdoor war- com (www.korea4expats.com) has more planes and tanks that make for a popular child-related information on Seoul. playground. Various events, some involv-

24 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Like a Keeping Fit Local Going hiking in and around Seoul can Prepare for Seoul’s cultural be a frightening business. This is not so divide. Bukchon and Seochon much because of the precariousness of the (both north of the Han River) are mountain trails (quite the opposite – these the city’s historical heart, where are usually well marked and seldom short courtly palace culture meets of small armies of hikers), but because you pre- and postcolonial commerce. will almost certainly feel underdressed. South of the Han, nouveau riche Seoulites are super avid walkers and few Gangnam is stacked with top-end would ever even think of venturing out boutiques and expense-account without being kitted head to toe in the restaurants and bars. latest hi-tech and invariably brightly col- Round-the-Clock Shopping oured gear. A trip to Dongdaemun Market or a shopping mall to purchase an outfit Whichever side of the river they live on, of local brands, such as Blackyak or the Seoulites love (or is that live?) to shop. For Redface, should have you breathing a little all the city’s headlong rush into the 21st easier. century, sprawling all-night markets, such as those at Dongdaemun (p123) and Nam- Hiking is not the only popular keep-fit daemun (p74), confirm more traditional pastime. The cycle lanes running along- and time-worn images of Asian commerce. side the Han River (p87) are also actively This impression is further reinforced by patronised, as are the free outdoor gyms the bazaars devoted to herbal medicines located in many parks. at Seoul Yangnyeongsi (p123) and to an- tiques at Dapsimni (p123). A fascinating Bang-ing Around insight into local life can also be gleaned from what people sell off at flea markets, The old expat playground of Itaewon has the biggest of which is the Seoul Folk Flea become a much more multicultural affair, Market (p123). If the old and secondhand appealing to worldly Koreans and their aren’t to your taste, contemporary fashions curious brethren. The adjacent areas of and fads can be gauged on trips to mercan- Hannam-dong, Haebangchon (aka HBC) tile hubs such as Myeong-dong, Apgujeong, and Gyeongridan have an equally, if not Cheongdam and Garosu-gil. more, happening vibe. However, to really take Seoul’s re- laxation pulse, a nocturnal visit to hip Hongdae and Daehangno – both major hubs for students and the young – is recommended. Here you’ll encounter the highest concentrations of Seoul’s various versions of the bang. Meaning ‘room’, bang come in the shape of karaoke rooms (noraebang), private DVD screening rooms (DVD-bang) and online-game rooms (PC bang). Finally, if you really want to sample local life, get naked! Stripping off and sweating at a jjimjil-bang (luxury sauna) is a very popular way for Seoulites to steam off their stresses.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25 For Free The Great Outdoors You don’t need a wallet packed Join the legions of locals who take full with won to have an enjoyable advantage of Seoul’s mountainous to- time in Seoul. Many of the best pography. All four of the city’s guardian things you can do – from hiking mountains – Bukaksan, Naksan, Namsan around the ancient city walls and Inwangsan – have hiking routes; the to enjoying the pageant of the really keen can summit them all by follow- changing of the guard at the ing the remains of Seoul’s city walls. The palaces – cost nothing at all. panoramic city views are your reward for Architectural Treasures the effort. Admission to most royal palaces is not The city government has also spent costly and usually includes free guided enormous sums to create pleasant water­ tours. Additionally, it costs nothing to side parks both along the Han River and in enjoy the changing of the guard ceremo- central Seoul, where the long-­buried-­over nies at Gyeongbokgung (p50), Deoksugung Cheong-gye-cheon (p56) now sparkles (p75) and the Bosingak bell tower pavilion in the light of day. Seoul Forest (p121) is (p62). Impressive religious architecture another major reforesta­ tion project, as is is freely on show at the Buddhist tem- the creation of a beautiful landscaped park ples Jogye-sa (p55), Bongeun-sa (p110) from an old water-filtration plant on the and Gilsang-sa (p129). You can also view Han River island of Seonyudo (p89). For aristocratic hanok (traditional Korean more about Seoul’s hiking options, see p28. one-­storey wooden houses) for free at Namsangol Hanok Village (p77), or clusters Museums, Galleries & of still-lived-in, more modest tradi­tional Street Art homes in Bukchon, Seochon and Ikseon- dong (p61). The list of museums with no entrance fee is pretty extensive and includes the Nation- Those with more contemporary archi- al Museum (p97), Seoul Museum of His- tectural tastes will want to get an eyeful tory (p57) and Seoul Museum of Art (p77). of the sinuous lines of both Dongdaemun You don’t need to be a buyer to drop by the Design Plaza (p120) and the new City Hall scores of free art-gallery shows in areas (p76), as well as a host of stylish structures such as Insa-dong and Samcheong-dong in Gangnam such as Daniel Libeskind’s (p58). There are thousands of interesting Tangent building (p178). outdoor sculptures scattered across Seoul, with over 200 of them alone in Olympic Park (p108). And for fun, inventive street art, wander the alleys of Ihwa-dong and Mullae Arts Village (p88). Festivals & Events Not a week goes by without a free festival or event happening somewhere in the city. Seoul’s government often puts on free shows in Seoul Plaza (p76) in front of City Hall, and there’s the spectacular lighting up of the fountain (p111) flowing off Banpo Bridge in the warmer months. There’s no cost to join in the Sunday singalong service at the Yeouido Full Gospel Church (p88) – with a cast of tens of thousands – either.

26 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Courses DEREK WINCHESTER / GETTY IMAGES © Courses & Tours Templestays & Meditation Helping you know your hansik (Korean food) from your hanbok Templestay (Map p212; %02-2013 2000; www. (traditional clothing), a variety of templestay.com; 56 Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno-gu; courses and tours will put you on bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 6) At the Templestay the fast track to understanding Information Center you can book overnight stay Korean culture. Some are very programs at beautiful temples in Seoul, including popular, so they’re worth booking Bongeun-sa (p110), Jogye-sa (p55) and well in advance, particularly the Gilsang-sa (p129), and around Korea. No at- Koridoor Tours trip to the DMZ. tempt will be made to convert you to Buddhism during these inexpensive and relaxing programs, Sculpture at Templestay Information Center which are a brilliant way to learn a little about Korean Buddhism, meditation and crafts such as how to make paper lanterns and prayer beads. International Seon Center (%02-2260 3891; http://site.dongguk.edu/user/seoncenter eng/index.html; 30 Pildong-ro 1-gil, Jung-gu; bLine 3 to Dongguk University, Exit 6) Come here for English lectures on Buddhist teaching every Saturday, 2pm to 4pm, and for the Templelife program that runs every afternoon from 2pm to 5pm, which includes a chat with a monk over tea. You’ll find the centre on the 2nd floor of the round theatre to the left of the campus inner gate (Hyehwamun). Food, Drink & Culture O’ngo (Map p212; %02-3446 1607; www. ongofood.com; 12 Samilde-ro 30-gil, Jongno-gu; tours from ₩57,000, courses from ₩65,000; bLine 1, 3 or 5 to Jongno 3-ga, Exit 5) Well-run cooking classes and food tours around the city are offered here. The beginners’ class lasts two hours and you can choose a variety of different dishes to learn about, including haemul pajeon (seafood pancake), sundubu (soft tofu stew), bulgogi (mari- nated beef) and the many types of kimchi. Delectable Travels (http://delectabletravels. com; full-day tour for 2 people US$600) Expert food guide Dan Grey, the go-to guy for visiting celebs and TV crews, runs full-day Ultimate Food Experiences around the city taking in a variety of markets and street food. Half-day tours are available on request. Makgeolli Makers (www.facebook.com/ makgeollimakers; Susubori Academy, 47 Kyonggidae-ro, Seodaemun-gu; course ₩45,000; bLine 2 or 5 to Chungjeongno, Exit 7) Becca Baldwin and Daniel Lenaghan, two well-qualified brewing instructors, offer these hands-on courses that provide all you need to know about makgeolli (a mildly alcoholic drink made from rice, water and nuruk, a wheat-based mix of yeasts, enzymes and moulds) and how to make it. The introductory

27 Jongno 3-ga, Exit 15) Korean classes (maximum size 10) for all ability levels cover grammar, writing and conversation. Private tuition (₩50,000 per hour for one person) can also be arranged here. Yonsei University (Map p218; %02-2123 3465; www.yskli.com; 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun- gu; bLine 2 to Sinchon, Exit 6) The university runs part- and full-time Korean language and culture classes for serious students. PL A N YO U R TRI P C ourses & T ours Tours GREG THOMSON / GETTY IMAGES © Seoul City Tour Bus (Map p210; %02-777 Makgeolli (milky rice wine; p166) 6090; www.seoulcitybus.com; tours from adult/ child ₩12,000/10,000; hhalf-hourly 9am-7pm; courses run on a Sunday from 1pm to 4pm and bLine 5 to Gwanghwamun, Exit 6) Comfortable you’ll go home with your own batch of makgeolli tour buses circuit top tourist attractions north ready to drink in about a week. of the Han River, allowing you to see a lot in a Gastro Tour Seoul (www.gastrotourseoul.com; short time. Hop on and off anywhere along the tours from ₩90,000) Culinary and culture tours two routes, one on a single-decker bus covering run by local Veronica Kang. Itineraries include the palaces and sights in the downtown area, tours around Insa-dong and Bukchon, Seoul’s the other on a double-decker bus in a wider loop Little Tokyo in Ichon-dong, and a trip to a winery at including Hongdae and Yeouido. Buy tickets on the Anseong in the Gyeonggi-do. bus, which can be caught outside Donghwa Duty Yoo’s Family (Map p212; %02-3673 0323; www. Free Shop at Gwanghwamun. Check the website yoosfamily.com; 19 Yulgok-ro 10-gil, Jongno-gu; for details of night tours, which zigzag across the courses ₩20,000-65,000; bLine 3 to Anguk, Han River so you can view the illuminated bridges, Exit 4) Housed in a hanok (traditional Korean and for trips on the trolleylike buses. one-storey wooden house with a tiled roof), Yoo’s Seoul City Walking Tours (%02-6925 0777; Family’s cooking courses cover making kimchi and http://dobo.visitseoul.net) Reserve three days in hotteok (pancakes), as well as various other foods. advance for one of 23 different free walking tours You can also practice the tea ceremony, make offered by the city in association with volunteer prints from carved wooden blocks and dress up in guides. Themes take you on tours around the hanbok. A minimum of two people is required. palaces, Bukchon, Cheong-gye-cheon, Namsan Magpie Brewing Co. (Map p218; www.magpie fortress and City Hall. brewing.com; 6-15 Wausan-ro 19-gil, Mapo-gu; Koridoor Tours (Map p224, C2; %02-794 2570; h5pm-2am Tue-Thu, 5pm-3am Fri, 2pm-3am Sat, www.koridoor.co.kr; bLine 1 to Namyeong, Exit 2pm-2am Sun; bLine 2 to Hongik University, Exit 2) Apart from running the very popular DMZ/JSA 9) To learn about craft beer brewing, check out the tour for the USO (United Service Organizations), introductory courses run by Magpie. this company also offers city tours; trips to out-of- town destinations, such as Suwon and Incheon; Korean Language paragliding, scuba diving and deep-sea fishing tours; and ski trips to local resorts in the winter. YBM Sisa (Map p212; %02-2278 0509; Royal Asiatic Society (www.raskb.com) http://kli.ybmedu.com; 104 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu; Organ­ises enlightening walking and bus tours to h6.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun; all parts of South Korea, usually on weekends; courses from ₩130,000; bLine 1, 3 or 5 to check the website for the schedule. Nonmembers are welcome to join. The reasonably priced tours are led by English-speakers who are experts in their field. The society also organises lectures several times a month in Seoul. Viator.com (www.viator.com/Seoul/d973-ttd) Also check out the options here.

28 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Hiking Namhan Sanseong Provincial Park With several mountains and hills within its boundaries, and even This park, 25km southeast of Seoul, is fa- more a short journey away, Seoul mous for its beautiful pine and oak forests, is a fantastic place to plan some wild flowers and the World Heritage–listed hiking. Trails are well marked remains of a fortress, parts of which date and vary from relatively easy back to the 7th century. The most popular strolls of a few hours to a 10-day hiking route is a two-hour loop with sweep- hiking challenge running 157km ing panoramas. Or you can trek the entire around the city. fortress wall’s perimeter in around seven Seoul City Walls hours. Be sure to mix up trails that lead in and out of the wall to change your views. Initially built in 1396, Seoul’s original for- tress wall (http://seoulcitywall.seoul.go.kr) runs To get here, take subway Line 8 to San- for 18.6km, connecting the peaks of Bukak- seong, then get a taxi or take bus 9 from san (342m), Naksan (125m), Namsan (262m) Exit 2 of the station to the park’s south and Inwangsan (338m), all north of the Han gate, a total journey of around one hour River. It was punctuated by four major gates from central Seoul. and four subgates, of which six remain. Seoul Dulle-gil Over time parts of the wall were demol- ished, but in an effort to have the entire More ambitious hikers can tackle part or all structure designated by Unesco as a World of the Seoul Dulle-gil (Seoul Trail; http://gil.seoul. Heritage site, the city has been restoring go.kr) which runs for 157km around the city’s some of the missing sections. At the time of outskirts. Each of the eight sections starts writing some 70% (12.8km) is in place and and finishes beside a subway station and goes it’s relatively easy to follow a hiking route over a mountain (sometimes two), through beside and, in several cases, atop the walls. forests and parks and alongside streams. Section 1 Suraksan and Bulamsan (18.6km, 8¾ The circuit can be accomplished in a day, hours; start bDobongsan, finish bTaereung) but is better split over two, should you pre- Section 2 Yongmasan (12.6km, 5¼ hours; start fer to take your time and do some sightsee- bTaereung, finish bGwangnaru) ing. Start at Heunginjimun (Dongdaemun), Section 3 Godeoksan and Iljasan (26.1km, nine near to which is the Seoul City Wall Mu- hours; start bGwangnaru, finish bSuseo) seum (p121), and walk in an anti-clockwise Section 4 Daemosan and Umyeonsan (17.9km, direction – this way you’ll get the steepest eight hours; start bSuseo, finish bSadang) section up and down Bukaksan done in the Section 5 Gwanaksan (12.7km, 5¾ hours; start morning and could linger on Namsam later bSadang, finish bSeoksu) in the afternoon. Section 6 Anyangcheon stream (18km, 4½ hours; start bSeoksu, finish bGayang) Section 7 Bongsan and Aengbongsan (16.6km, 6¼ hours; start bGayang, finish bGubapal) Section 8 Bukhansan (34.5km, 17 hours; start bGubapal, finish bDobongsan) Bukhansan National Park North of the city, Bukhansan National Park (p139) is studded with granite peaks which provide sweeping vistas, and is covered in pine and maple trees, gushing streams and remote temples.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 29 CHRISTIAN OEY / GETTY IMAGES © Pork (samgyeopsal) barbecue (p164) Eating Sampling the varied and – to international travellers – generally unfamiliar delights of Korean cuisine is one of Seoul’s great pleasures. Restaurants, cafes and street stalls are scattered throughout every neighbourhood with options to suit all budgets and tastes, from small, unpretentious joints serving healthy rice and vegetables, DIY beef or pork barbecue to the overflowing abundance and delicacy of a royal banquet. What’s Hot One current food trend is Seoul’s infatu­ While Korean food has been the darling of ation with American cuisine, where Southern-­ hipster food trends overseas for some years style BBQ, pulled-pork sandwiches and Maine now, Seoul in turn has an obsession with in- lobster rolls are all the rage. ternational food. While crazes come and go, most are centred on world cuisine or what Fusion food is another big hit, mixing tra- the latest K-Pop star was spotted eating last ditional Korean flavours with contemporary week. Fads can range from mile-long queues dishes, from LA-style, food-truck kimchi for churros, to pizza in a cone or gourmet tacos to high-end molecular fusion. popcorn flavoured with anything from white truffle to cookies-and-cream. Restaurants Most Korean-style restaurants offer a table- and-chairs option, but in some traditional places customers sit on floor cushions at low

30 MANFRED GOTTSCHALK / GETTY IMAGES ©NEED TO KNOW PLAN YOUR TRIP EATINGFor help decoding the menu, see p168. Price Ranges $ less than ₩10,000 $$ ₩10,000–₩20,000 $$$ more than ₩20,000 Opening Hours ¨¨Restaurants and cafes 11am to 11pm ¨¨Convenience stores 24 hours Reservations Namdaemun Market (p74) For most places, it’s unnecessary to book tables unless you want your own private meat- and dairy-free eating options. As well room or are in a large group. as Korean dishes such as bibimbap (usually rice, egg, meat and vegies with chilli sauce; Guides & Blogs order it without meat, or egg), a few tofu ¨¨ZenKimchi (www.zenkimchi.com) dishes and vegetable pajeon (savoury fried ¨¨Seoul Eats (www.seouleats.com) pancakes), you’ll find several traditional res- ¨¨Visit Seoul (www.visitseoul.net) taurants that specialise in 100% vegetarian ¨¨Korea Taste (www.koreataste.org) Buddhist temple food. There’s also a grow- ¨¨Alien’s Day Out (www.aliensday ing number of Western-style vegetarian/­ out.com) vegan restaura­ nts, plus international cuisine such as Indian and Middle Eastern. Tipping & Service Charges Not a Korean custom, and not expected. The blogs Alien’s Day Out (www.aliensday out.com) and Happy Cow (www.happycow.net/ tables. Few staff speak English, but most asia/south_korea/seoul) are good resources for restaurants have some English on the menu. vegetarians looking for somewhere to dine. The food listings on Visit Seoul (www.visit In Seoul, eating out is a group activity. seoul.net) are also very helpful. A number of Korean meals, such as galbi (beef ribs) or jjimdak (spicy chicken pieces Eating by Neighbourhood with noodles), are not usually available for just one person. On a Budget ¨¨Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu Insa-dong, Street stalls and pojangmacha (tent bars) Samcheong-dong and Bukchon are packed are great options for inexpensive meals. with places offering everything from street Areas in Insa-dong, Myeong-dong and snacks to table-overflowing banquets. (p63) markets at Gwangjang, Namdaemun and ¨¨Myeong-dong & Jung-gu Fun street food; Dongdaemun are the best spots to dig in long-established traditional restaurants. (p78) with locals. ¨¨Western Seoul The University districts are big on casual cafes and street eats. Seafood lovers For eating on the go there’s always shouldn’t miss Noryangjin Fish Market. (p89) convenience stores, with snack foods such ¨¨Itaewon & Around The best range of as gimbap (rice wrapped in seaweed) or international restaurants that are used to noodles for quick and easy meals; there’s dealing with expats. (p99) usually a small area with tables. ¨¨Gangnam & South of the Han River Vegetarians & Vegans Expense-a­ ccount restaurants in Apgujeong Though vegetarian and vegan travellers and Cheongdam. More casual hang-outs in generally have a tough time in Korea, fortu- Garosu-gil. (p113) nately Seoul offers a much greater choice of

MARTIN RICHARDSON © ROUGH GUIDES / GETTY IMAGES © 31 SIMON RICHMOND / GETTY IMAGES ©Above: Street-stall tteokbokki (rice cakes in a sweet sauce) Right: Ssambap (assorted ingredients with rice and wraps)

32 PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING Lonely Planet’s Top $$$ Menya Sandaime (p89) Slurp Choices up delicious bowls of ramen. Min’s Club (p66) Elegant Korea- Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai (p90) Jungsik (p113) Neo-Korean fine meets-Europe experience for Uncompromising flavours at a dining at affordable prices. food and surroundings. top Thai restaurant. Noryangjin Fish Market (p90) Ogawa (p64) Upmarket sushi Potala (p80) Authentic dishes Superfresh fish dinners at restaurant that won’t break from the Himalayan region. Korea’s largest seafood market. the bank. Congdu (p80) Subtle contemp­ GastroTong (p64) Sophisticat- Best for Vegetarians orary twists on Korean classics. ed Swiss European cuisine. & Vegans Samwon Garden (p113) The N.Grill (p81) Incredible views classic galbi experience. and French cuisine cooked by a Balwoo Gongyang (p65) Bud- Gwangjang Market (p122) Michelin-starred chef. dhist vegetarian feasts overlook- Supertasty and cheap street ing Jogye-sa. food in a covered market. Best by Cuisine PLANT (p99) Vegan bakery and Coreanos Kitchen (p113) cafe in Itaewon. Mexican-Korean-Texan taco- Traditional Korean Osegyehyang (p64) Insa-dong truck-style fusion. hideaway that keeps it vegan. Korea House (p80) Traditional banquet and performance. Best by Budget Hanmiri (p64) Modern take on Rogpa Tea Stall (p63) Fair- traditional cuisine overlooking trade Tibetan dishes in a charm- the Cheong-gye-cheon. ing teahouse. $ Gosang (p80) Buddhist temple Loving Hut (p90) Vegan haven dishes dating from Goryeo in Sinchon. Tongin Market Box Lunch Cafe dynasty. (p63) Old-school market arcade. Tobang (p64) Great-value set Jaha Sonmandoo (p130) Best Bakeries, Korean meals. Dumplings on the slopes of Desserts & Cafes Myeong-dong Gyoja (p78) Bukaksan. Hand-pulled noodle soup with Tosokchon (p63) Ginseng-­ Passion 5 (p99) Glitzy arcade dumplings. chicken stew that’s worth with gourmet foods. Koong (p64) Kaeseong-style the wait. dumplings. Seoureseo Duljjaero Namdaemun Market (p74) International Jalhaneunj­ ip (p64) Time travel Fresh and tasty market dishes. to the ‘70s while enjoying red- Linus’ BBQ (p100) Alabama- bean porridge. $$ style barbecue. Fell & Cole (p90) Uniquely Ciuri Ciuri (p90) Savour Sicilian flavoured ice creams. Gogung (p65) Jeonju-style dishes in Hongdae. Suji’s (p100) Proper breakfasts bibimbap rice dishes. Vatos (p99) Mexican street and home-baked goods. Seasons Table (p113) Good- tacos with Korean flavours. Scoff (p130) Sweet British value traditional Korean buffet. Samarkand (p122) Uzbekistan baked treats in Buam-dong. Slobbie (p90) Slow down to lamb shashlik and bread. Tartine (p101) American-style enjoy honest, tasty Korean food. pies and desserts.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 33 PHOTOGRAPH BY KANGHEEWAN / GETTY IMAGES © Street scene at night Drinking & Nightlife From quaintly rustic teahouses and coffee roasters to craft beer pubs and classy cocktail bars, Seoul offers an unbelievable number of places to relax over a drink. No-frills hof (pubs) are common, and don’t miss that quintessential Seoul nightlife experience: soju (local vodka) shots and snacks at a pojangmacha (street tent bar). Teahouses & Cafes You’ll quickly suss out that a quality cup Korea’s tea culture, which dates back cen- of tea or coffee in Seoul is not cheap, and is turies, can be appreciated in Seoul’s many often the equivalent to what you can pay for quaint and charming teahouses. These places a whole Korean meal. You’re also paying for major in herbal and fruit teas, many of which occupying the space, so don’t feel bad about have medicinal properties, but it’s also pos- lingering all day over your drink. Many newer sible to sip quality green, black and other breeds of cafes and teahouses encourage you fermented teas. to do this by creating interesting environ- ments packed with books, magazines, plants, In recent decades Koreans have taken to art – even cats to cuddle or sheep to pet. coffee in a big way. Properly brewed coffee is abundantly available, from the usual Western-­ Drinking Trends style cafe chains to artisan third-wave roasters Makgeolli, a milky alcoholic brew made who treat their globally sourced, sometimes from unrefined fermented rice, long popular fair-trade beans with reverence. among the older generation, is catching on

34 PLAN YOUR TRIP DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE If you’re looking for something more sophisticated, there are plenty of craft beer NEED TO KNOW bars, cocktail bars and quirky drinking dens in places such as Itaewon, Hongdae, Sin- Opening Hours chon and Gangnam. ¨¨Bars noon to 6am ¨¨Clubs 10pm to 6am Wednesday to Tent Bars & Convenience Stores Sunday Beloved by Seoulites are pojangmacha (tent bars). Usually shortened to poja, these How Much? humble blue-tarp shelters are scattered ¨¨Local beer ₩3000– ₩5000 across the city’s streets. Poja also serve food; ¨¨Craft beer ₩5000– ₩10,000 if you’ve had plenty of soju you may feel ¨¨Cocktail ₩6000– ₩15,000 brave enough to order takbal (chicken feet). ¨¨Coffee ₩2500– ₩6000 ¨¨Tea ₩6000– ₩9000 Poja are also cheap, but not as cheap as convenience stores, which are open 24 Cover Charges hours and often have places to sit, either At clubs the entry charge of ₩10,000– inside or out, to drink your can of beer or ₩30,000 usually includes a free drink. bottle of soju. They’re a popular hang-out in the evening with students and young expats. Drinking Water In restaurants and cafes you’ll be pre- Clubbing sented with bottled or filtered water upon Gangnam is home to Seoul’s world-famous sitting down, which is safe to drink. clubbing scene, but Itaewon and Hongdae have decent choices, too. Most clubs don’t Drinking Etiquette become busy until midnight and only start If out drinking with Koreans, always pour buzzing after 2am. Friday and Saturday for your elders, never pour for yourself and nights have a real party atmosphere. Dress use both hands to hold your glass when codes are generally not too strict. it’s being filled. with the young and trendy too. Seoul has LGBTIQ Scene several bars now where higher-quality LGBTIQ-friendly areas of the city include styles of makgeolli, akin to the range of Itaewon (mainly gay and transsexual/­ Japanese sake, are served and savoured. transvestite bars), Nagwon-dong near Insa- dong (gay bars) and Hongdae and Edae Until recently beer (maekju) was the (mainly lesbian bars). least exciting of all Korean alcohol; ubiqui- tous and cheap local brands, all lagers, in- Drinking & Nightlife by clude the equally bland Cass, Max and Hite. Neighbourhood The craft beer revolution has well and truly hit Seoul though, with a growing number ¨¨Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu Teahouses of microbreweries producing artisan ales to and cafes in Insa-dong and Samcheong-dong, cater for locals’ thirst for quality beer. Bukchon and Tongui-dong; tent bars and gay bars in Nagwon-dong. (p66) Bars ¨¨Western Seoul Hongdae, Sangsu-dong and Drinking, and drinking heavily, is very Yeonnam-dong for cool, youth-orientated bars, much a part of Korean socialising, and an cafes, dance and live-music clubs. (p91) evening out can quickly turn into a blur of ¨¨Itaewon & Around Expat-friendly bars and bar-hopping. Many a big night out starts clubs; gay-friendly ‘Homo Hill’; craft beers in and finishes in a hof. Inspired by German Gyeongridan. (p101) beer halls, the term generally means any ¨¨Gangnam & South of the Han River watering hole that serves primarily draught Chic, pricey cocktails bars in Apgujeong and Korean beer, with the requisite plate of Cheongdam; mega clubs with top DJs. (p114) fried chicken and other anju (snacks com- ¨¨Northern Seoul Cool cafes and student bars monly eaten when drinking). Always check around Daehangno; seek out charming cafes in whether a bar requires you to buy a plate of Seongbuk-dong. (p131) anju before drinking; places that don’t are called ‘one-shot’ bars.

35 Lonely Planet’s Top Best Cocktails & Story of the Blue Star (p67) PLAN YOUR TRIP DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Choices Wine Brass kettles full of makgeolli served in a dive-y hang-out. Suyeon Sanbang (p131) Southside Parlor (p101) Artisan Muldwinda (p81) Most stylish Charming teahouse in heritage cocktails by hipster mixologists. bar for sampling fine-grade hanok (traditional house) in Fox Wine Bistro (p92) Top makgeolli. the hills. selection of wines in Hongdae. Wolhyang Casual joint for Sik Mool (p66) Sophisti- N.Grill (p81) Open-air bar with sampling makgeolli in Hongdae cated hanok cafe-bar in up-and-­ amazing views from N Seoul (p91) and Itaewon (p103). coming Ikseon-dong. Tower. Dallyeora Gaemi 1 (p131) Mix & Malt (p131) Superb range A fun twist on a tent bar in of whiskies and cocktails in Best Cafe-Bars Daehangno. Daehangno. Best Tea Café Sukkara (p91) Rustic Best Clubbing lovely on the edge of Hongdae. Dawon (p66) Traditional Ikdong Dabang (p67) Cool Club Octagon (p114) Gangnam teahouse in the heart of Insa- hanok conversion with art club regarded as one of the dong set around a spacious installations. world’s best. courtyard. Sik Mool (p66) Sophisti- Cakeshop (p101) Fun-lovin’, Cha Masineun Tteul (p67) cated hanok cafe-bar in up-and-­ dive-y club in Itaewon. Enjoy steamed pumpkin cake coming Ikseon-dong. Ellui (p114) Another famous and lovely views. Ways of Seeing (p103) Design­ Gangnam megaclub. Dalsaeneun Dalman Saenggak er cafe in the backstreets. M2 (p92) Huge underground Handa (p67) Classic Insa-dong space for parties in Hongdae. teashop hideaway. Best Microbrew Bars Tea Therapy (p67) Brews for Best Gay & Lesbian whatever ails you. Craftworks (p81) Responsible Bars & Clubs for kicking off Seoul’s craft beer Best Coffee scene. Barcode (p68) Cosy, Magpie Brewing Co. (p91) convivial gay cocktail bar in Greenmile Coffee (p114) One of Seoul’s originals with Nagwon-dong. Roasts single-origin beans in the branches in Gyeongridan and Shortbus (p68) Spacious hang- backstreets of Gangnam. Hongdae. out serving good cocktails. Steamers Coffee Factory Booth (p114) Another big player, Club MWG (p92) Grungy (p115) Third-w­ ave coffee-­ with brewpubs across the city. Hongdae club hosting regular roasting champs. Pongdang (p114) Korean brew- LGBTIQ events. Club Espresso (p132) Single- ers who know their stuff. Labris (p92) One of Seoul’s few origin beans from around the lesbian bars. world. Best Traditional Queen (p104) Popular bar on Anthracite (p91) Top indepen­ Alcoholic Beverages Itaewon’s Homo Hill. dent coffee roaster and cafe in happening Sangsu. Damotori (p101) A cherished Kopi Bangasgan (p67) Arty local, specialising in makgeolli. hanok cafe in Samcheong-dong. Moon Jar (p115) Smart and Hakrim (p131) Little has rustic bar with a good menu. changed here since the 1950s. Baekseju-maeul (p67) Makgeolli bar run by big brewer, Kooksoondang.

36 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Entertainment Don’t worry about the language barrier: Seoul’s many performing-arts centres and theatres offer an intriguing and surprisingly accessible menu of traditional music, dance, drama, comedy, K-Pop and K-Indie bands. Classical & Traditional Theatre & Cinema Seoul is the best place in Korea to enjoy Theatre, except for drama festivals, is usu- traditional music and dance performances. ally performed in Korean: the very lively Some shows may include half a dozen differ- theatre scene in Daehangno is worth a visit ent dance and music styles. There’s a broad despite this. Musicals and nonverbal perfor- range of international classical offerings mance shows, such as Nanta (p82), can be too; top-class overseas orchestras and dance enjoyed even if you don’t understand any troupes frequently visit Seoul. Korean. Live Music Non-Korean movies are screened in their From the glossy, manufactured K-Pop indus- original language with subtitles. Also, some try to the underground indie scene, Seoul cinemas screen Korean movies with English offers a vibrant assortment of live music. subtitles during nonpeak times; call %02- 1330 for details. Hongdae is the place for Seoul’s K-Indie scene. Here many great venues host nightly Entertainment by Neighbourhood shows by local indie, punk, metal and hip- hop acts. Classy live-jazz venues can be found ¨¨Myeong-dong & Jung-gu Nonverbal theatre around the city too. is king here; see traditional shows at the Korea House and Namsangol Hanok Village. (p81) Bigger concerts by visiting superstars such ¨¨Western Seoul Hongdae is the hub of Seoul’s as Lady Gaga are held in the Olympic Sta- vibrant indie-music scene; or see free movies at dium (p117) or AX Korea. Touring bands and Cinemateque KOFA. (p93) K-Pop acts often perform at the Gymnastic ¨¨Gangnam & South of the Han River Home to Stadium at Olympic Park (p108). the Seoul Arts Center and LG Arts Center. (p115) ¨¨Northern Seoul Daehangno is a performing- K-Pop fans can arrange tickets to be in the arts hub with scores of venues, big and small. studio audience of TV progams; visit the (p131) Korea Tourism Organization (www.visitkorea. or.kr) site for details. The hologram perfor- mance at Klive (p123) is another option. Bang Culture Seoul is overflowing with bang – complexes of ‘rooms’ where you can make your own entertainment in a variety of ways, including playing computer games or watching DVDs. Most notable are noraebang (karaoke) rooms where you can sing along to well-known songs, including plenty with English lyrics.

37 Lonely Planet’s Best for Theatre & NEED TO KNOW Top Choices Dance Nanta Theatre (p82) The first Seoul Arts Center (p115) Tickets PLAN YOUR TRIP ENTERTAINMENT and the best of Seoul’s wide Opera, concert and recital ¨¨Interpark (http:// selection of nonverbal shows. performances. ticket.interpark.com) Tick- ets for theatre, concerts National Theater of Korea Sejong Center for the and sporting events. (p81) Home to the national Performing Arts (p68) Big drama, changgeuk (Korean musicals and intimate classical ¨¨KTO Tourist opera), orchestra and dance concerts are staged here. Information Center companies. LG Arts Center (p115) Slick (p192) Sells daily dis- Korea House (p80) Intimate theatre space hosting quality count tickets for shows. theatre for a quality variety show productions. of traditional performing arts. ArkoPAC (p131) Theatre Information National Gugak Center (p115) company that specialises in ¨¨Korea Gig Guide Traditional Korean classical and dance performances. (www.koreagigguide.com) folk music and dance. Jeongdong Theater (p81) ¨¨Seoulist (www. Su Noraebang (p93) Karaoke in Modern traditional Korean seoulist­mag.com) style in the heart of Hongdae. theatre. ¨¨Groove Korea (www. groovekorea.com) Best for K-Pop Best for K-Indie ¨¨10 Magazine (www.10mag.com) Klive (p123) Hologram concert FF (p93) Come early to hear Best for Movies by hottest K-Pop stars. local indie bands banging out K-Wave Experience (p111) Get their sets. Cinemateque KOFA (p93) the full K-Pop makeover and DGBD (p93) Standing room only Free screenings of classic and photo op. at this legendary rock venue. contemporary Korean films. K-Star Road (p111) Take a stroll Club Ta (p93) Hub of Hongdae’s Cinematheque/Seoul Arts down the ‘Hallyuwood’ Walk of ska and ska-punk scene. Cinema (p68) A chance to Fame. Thunderhorse Tavern (p104) catch local art-house films with Dive-y Itaewon venue hosting subtitles. Seoul Global Cultural Center local and expat bands. Megabox COEX (p116) Cine­ (p83) K-Pop dance classes to plex with 17 cinemas and 4000 learn all the latest moves. seats. Best Arts Festivals Best Mixed Events Best for Jazz Seoul Performing Arts Festival Mudaeruk (p93) Electronica, Club Evans (p93) Evergreen (www.spaf.or.kr) Month-long films and art in the basement of Hongdae jazz haunt. event in September offering the Lost Continent of Mu. All that Jazz (p104) Long- top-class local and international Café BBang (p93) Indie established, well-respected acts at ArkoPAC. artists and bands as well as film, Itaewon venue. International Modern Dance art exhibitions and parties. Once in a Blue Moon (p116) Festival (www.modafe.org) Held Indie Art-Hall GONG (p93) Stylish bar with quality in May and based at the Arko Art All kinds of cool goings-on in performers. Center in Daehangno. part of a steel factory south of Jazz Story (p131) Live sets in a Seoul Fringe Festival (p21) Each the Han. striking bar. August this performing-arts SJ Kunsthalle (p115) Hap- Seoul Jazz Festival (www. event takes over Hongdae. pening art and music space. seouljazz.co.kr) Multiday event Seoul International Dance Fes- featuring world-class musos tival (www.sidance.org) Based at in May. the Seoul Arts Center).

38 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd MAREMAGNUM / GETTY IMAGES © Shopping street, Myeong-dong (p82) Shopping Whether it’s with traditional items such as hanbok (traditional clothing) or hanji (handmade paper), art-and-design pieces, digital gizmos or K-Pop CDs, chances are slim that you’ll leave Seoul empty-handed. Seoul’s teeming markets, electronics emporiums, underground arcades, upmarket department stores and glitzy malls are all bursting at the seams with more goodies than Santa’s sack. Always in Fashion fers all the glamour and posturing fashionistas For clothing, shoes, accessories or fabrics you you’d find in LA’s Beverly Hills; worth checking can’t beat Dongdaemun Market or Myeong- out even if you’re not planning on buying. dong, where you’ll find plenty of local brands. Shirts or blouses made of lightweight, see- Outfits by hot local K-designers, such as through ramie (cloth made from pounded Lie Sang Bong, Kathleen Kye, fleamadonna, bark) make for an unusual fashion gift; the Doii Lee and Misung Jung, are best sourced quality is usually high, but as with naturally in major department stores or the boutiques dyed hanbok, such clothes are pricey. Every- of Myeong-dong, Apgujeong and Cheongdam. day hanbok is reasonably priced, but formal styles, made of colourful silk and intricately For high-end fashion the ritzy Apgujeong embroidered, are objects of wonder and cost Rodeo St in Gangnam district is a must. As a fortune. well as local K-designers, all the big-name luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Cosmetics are a big attraction for shop- Prada are here, and it’s an experience that of- pers visiting Seoul. Myeong-dong is the best place to head, stacked with local cosmetic

39 boutiques and chains selling top-quality, NEED TO KNOW PLAN YOUR TRIP SHOPPING inexpensive skin and make-up products; many of which are organic. An item that Opening Hours proves particularly popular with locals and ¨¨Shops 10am to 9pm; some closed international visitors is BB (blemish balm) Sunday cream; a two-in-one moisturiser and make- ¨¨Department Stores 10am to 8pm up – made famous by its popularity with ¨¨Markets Times vary, but some stalls hallyu (Korean Wave) film and pop stars. may stay open even on days when a market is generally closed. Antiques & Crafts Souvenirs such as embroidery, patchwork Bargaining wrapping cloths (bojagi), handmade paper Acceptable at markets and some shops. (hanji), wooden masks, fans, carvings and If you are buying more than one item, it’s lacquerware inlaid with mother-of-pearl also OK to ask for a discount – use your (najeon chilgi) can be found at Insa-dong’s judgement. craft shops. However, a better spot to pick up souvenirs is in the wholesale folk-arts VAT Refunds market in Buildings C and D at Namdae- If you spend more than ₩30,000 at par- mun Market (p74), which offers more ticipating tax-free shops, you can receive affordable prices. Also here are kitchen a partial refund on some items (between and tableware stores where you can buy 5% and 7%) of the 10% value added traditional stone bowls, plates, teacups and tax (VAT). Be sure to collect the special chopsticks, as well as cooking accessories. receipt. At Incheon International Airport go to a Customs Declaration Desk (near More expensive items include pale green the check-in counters) before checking in celadon pottery, reproduction Joseon-d­ ynasty your luggage, as the customs officer will furniture and contemporary art from Seoul’s want to see the items before stamping multitude of commercial galleries. your receipt. After you go through immi- gration, show your stamped receipt at the Antique lovers should browse the Dap- refund desk to receive your refund. simni arcades (p123), which specialise mainly in Joseon-era items such as pottery, Buddhist Located within the building of Samsung’s statues and furniture. Insa-dong and Itaewon world headquarters, Samsung D’Light also have plenty of antique stores that spe- (p112) showcases all the new releases, plus cialise in traditional artifacts. The Seoul Folk exhibitions on technology and innovation. Flea Market (p123) is a lively spot to browse antiques, reproductions and collectables. Shopping by Neighbourhood Food & Drink ¨¨Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu Insa-dong The many types of Korean tea are a popu- and Samcheong-dong are packed with art lar buy. Rice wines such as makgeolli and galleries, traditional craft and antique shops and baekseju, and local liquors such as soju, are boutiques. Also look for similar in Seochon, west also good souvenirs. Ginseng, the wonder of the palace. (p68) root, turns up everywhere. You can chew it, ¨¨Myeong-dong & Jung-gu Best for department eat it, drink it or bathe in it to benefit from stores, fashion outlets and cosmetics. All-night its health-giving properties. shopping at Namdaemun Market. (p82) ¨¨Western Seoul Youthful fashion and culture are Electronics & Digital Goods serviced in Hongdae and Yeonnam-dong. (p93) While Seoul is home to some of the world’s ¨¨Itaewon & Around Itaewon is great for expat- largest electronic companies such as Sam- sized clothing and shoes, and is developing a rep sung and LG, don’t come here expecting for boutiques. Near Yongsan station are tons of bargains on the latest gadgets. The Yongsan electronics vendors and a shopping mall. (p104) Electronics Market (p104), however, is a good ¨¨Gangnam & South of the Han River Luxe retail spot to check out new-release digital goods, in Apgujeong and Cheongdam; more affordable with many stalls crammed into several build- boutiques in Garosu-gil; one-stop shopping at ings. As well as the latest smartphones, it’s megamalls such as COEX and D Cube City. (p116) also an excellent spot to pick up bargain- priced secondhand smartphones – all in very good working condition. If bargaining is not your thing, I’Park Mall (p105) also has a great range of electronic items at fixed prices.

40 PLAN YOUR TRIP SHOPPING Lonely Planet’s Boon the Shop (p117) Designer Best Department Top Choices boutiques and clothing in ritzy Stores & Malls Apgujeong. Insa-dong Maru (p69) Slick Gentle Monster (p94) Edgy COEX Mall (p116) A shiny, showcase for local crafts, shades and frames as worn by modern megamall that’s Asia’s fashion and homewares. Korean stars. largest underground shopping KCDF Gallery (p69) Gorgeous Jilkyungyee (p69) Tastefully precinct. design emporium embracing designed hanbok for both sexes. Shinsegae (p82) Korea’s first traditional crafts with a contem- department store has local de- porary slant. Best for Design signers and a lovely roof garden. 10 Corso Como Seoul (p116) Galleria (p116) Haute couture Beautifully curated, high-fashion Dongdaemun Design Plaza & along Apgujeong Rodeo St. and lifestyle store in classy Park (p120) Plenty of design Lotte Department Store (p82) Cheongdam. shops, markets and exhibitions. Several branches across the Namdaemun Market (p74) Market m* (p69) Wooden city, including its original colos- Haggle for bargains at this furniture, bags, storage and sta- sus shopping precinct. sprawl­ing city-centre warren of tionery from Korea and Japan. Mecenatpolis Mall (p94) One stalls selling all life’s essentials. Jonginamoo (p70) Traditional of Seoul’s newest and best- Shinsegae (p82) The ‘Harrods’ furniture and home decor. designed malls. of Seoul is the city’s classiest Gallery Art Zone (p69) Con- Hyundai Department Store department store. temporary Korean design from (p116) Luxury brands by local portable speakers to ceramics. and international designers. Best Markets KT&G SangsangMadang (p86) The downstairs shop is a good Best for Electronics Namdaemun Market (p74) spot for gifts. Korea’s largest and most atmos- Object Recycle (p94) Great Yongsan Electronics Market pheric market. selection of recycled and (p104) A complex of stores with Gwangjang Market (p123) Most upc­ ycled designer goods from the latest gadgets, as well as famous for food, but also has across Korea. secondhand smartphones. vintage clothing and textiles. Millimetre Milligram (p104) Samsung D’Light (p112) Dis- Dongdaemun Market (p123) Designer accessories, furniture plays the newest releases from Energetic 24-hour shopping and and art books. this giant in technology. good market food. I’Park Mall (p105) Department Seoul Folk Flea Market (p123) Best for Books, store selling an excellent selec- Fantastic place to sift through CDs & DVDs tion of electronic goods trash and treasure. Seoul Yangnyeongsi Herb Seoul Selection (p69) Best Best for Crafts & Medicine Market (p123) Take in choice of books and DVDs about Souvenirs wonderful fragrances at Asia’s Korea. largest herbal market. What the Book (p105) Good Namdaemun Market (p74) selection of novels, secondhand Sprawling selection of traditional Best Fashion books and magazines. handicrafts at wholesale prices. Kyobo Bookshop (p68) Great Ssamziegil (p70) Insa-dong Doota (p123) Buzzing fashion range of English-language books, complex for quirky fashion, mall with domestic brands, luxury Korean CDs and stationery. accessories or souvenirs. designers and accessories. 10 Corso Como Seoul (p116) Free Market (p94) Weekly crea- 10 Corso Como Seoul (p116) Cool art and design books. tive market in Hongdae. High-end fashion by interna- K-Wave Experience (p111) Has Key (p93) Affordable, exclusive tional and local designers. a decent stock of K-Wave CDs items, from jewellery to paintings. Lab 5 (p82) Good spot to seek and DVDs. Korea House (p80) Elegant out the latest in K-design. selection of crafts.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 41 JOHN W BANAGAN / GETTY IMAGES © Lotte World’s indoor ice skating rink (p109) Sports & Activities Baseball and soccer are the major spectator sports in Seoul. As for activities, don’t miss out on having a relaxing sweat and cleansing soak in a jjimjil-bang (communal sauna and bathhouse). Hiking is popular year- round, while skiing and ice skating take over in winter. Spectator Sports field entertainment. Games generally start at 6.30pm, with the occasional earlier start. BASEBALL SOCCER Introduced in 1905 by American missionaries, In the 12-team professional K-League (www. baseball is Korea’s favourite sport. There are kleague.com/eng), FC Seoul plays from March three Seoul teams in the Korean Baseball Or- to November in the World Cup Stadium ganization (KBO; http://eng.koreabaseball.com) and (p94). Crowds are bigger and there’s more two of them – the Doosan Bears and the LG atmosphere when the national team is play- Twins – play at Jamsil Baseball Stadium at the ing at the stadium, cheered on by the Red Seoul Sports Complex (p117); the Nexen Heroes Devil supporters. play at Mokdong Stadium (939 Anyangcheon-ro, Yangcheon-gu; bLine 5, Omokgyo, Exit 4). Matches TAEKWONDO take place from April to October (except for the summer break), and are well attended, with While not popular with locals as a spectator a lively boozy atmosphere and plenty of off- sport, those wanting to catch Korea’s national martial art can head to Kukkiwon stadium (p117) to catch a tournament, training session or demonstration by some of its world’s best

42 NEED TO KNOW The basic entry fee covers up to 12 hours of unlimited use of all the baths and saunas; treatments like body scrubs cost extra. Contacts & Information HIKING ¨¨Adventure Club (www.adventurekorea. com) Contact for details of caving, rock See Hiking chapt(p28) for information. PLAN YOUR TRIP SPORTS & ACTIVITIES climbing, white-water rafting, paintball TAEKWONDO COURSES games and other adventurous outdoor activities. Namsangol Hanok Village arranges training courses for foreigners wanting a hands-on ¨¨Seoul Hiking Group (www.seoulhiking experience of Korea’s national martial art; group.com) Heads off hiking at least visit www.taekwonseoul.org for more info. once a week. GOLF PRACTICE ¨¨Korea4Expats.com (www.korea4 expats.com) Listings for community Private golf courses are usually for members groups and different activities. Good only, but there are driving ranges in top-end info on cycling too. hotels and elsewhere including Gangnam. Costs CYCLING ¨¨Baseball/soccer tickets ₩7000 to ₩20,000. Cycleways run along both sides of the Han ¨¨Jjimjil-bang ₩7000 to ₩12,000 River past sports fields and picnic areas. entry, depending on the level of facilities. There are plenty of bike-hire stalls (₩3000 per hour, open 9am to 8.30pm March to exponents. Otherwise there are displays November), as well as free rental close by the staged at Namsangol Hanok Village (p77) subways at Okso (Exit 4), Eungbong (Exit 1), at 11am, 1pm and 4pm daily from May to Gongneung (Exit 4), Yeongdeungpo-gu Office November. Expect to see graceful move- (Exit 2), Sanggye (Exit 1), Gangbyeon (Exit ments, spectacular pine-board breaking and 1) and Jamsil (Exit 2) – which can vary from acrobatic high kicking. See www.taekwon two hours to all day. Bring your own padlock, seoul.kr for more information. and leave a driving licence or other ID. BASKETBALL SWIMMING Seoul’s Samsung Thunders and SK Knights Outdoor pools open in July and August in play in the 10-team Korean Basketball the Han River parks. League (KBL; www.kbl.or.kr) from October to April. Samsung Thunders play at Jamsil WINTER SPORTS Arena at Seoul Sports Complex (p117), while the Knights are at Jamsil Students’ Gymna- From December to February a handful of ski sium in the Seoul Sports Complex. resorts within easy reach of Seoul (an hour or less by bus) open. Many of the resorts closest SSIREUM to the city run free shuttle buses from Seoul’s main stations, making it possible to do a Ssireum is Korean-style wrestling, more day-long ski excursion and return to Seoul like Mongolian wrestling than Japanese at night. If you’d like to stay overnight or for sumo. Competitions are held at Jangchung the weekend, travel-agency package deals Gymnasium (p123) during Lunar New Year are a good bet, as they include transport, and Chuseok holidays. accommodation, ski-equipment hire and lift passes. Check out Bears Town Resort (%031 Activities 540 5000; www.bearstown.com), Jisan Resort (%02-3442 0322, 031 638 8460; www.jisanresort. TWENTY-FOUR-HOUR SPAS co.kr) or Yangji Pine Resort (%02-744 2001, 031 338 2001; www.pineresort.com). The best jjimjil-bang (Korean spas) offer a variety of baths (maybe green tea or gin- During the same months, skate under the seng) and saunas (mugwort, pine or jade). stars at the magical, inexpensive ice-skating The etiquette is to get fully naked for spas, rink that appears on Seoul Plaza (서울광장 hence men and women are always separate 스케이트장; %for English 02-1330; www.seoul in the bath area. But saunas, napping rooms skate.or.kr; 110 Sejong-daero; per hr incl skate rental and other facilities may be mixed; in these ₩1000; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sat Dec- areas wear the robes or shorts and T-shirts Feb; c; bLine 1 or 2 to City Hall, Exit 5). Swim- provided. Most spas are open 24 hours. ming pools along the Han River are also turned into skating rinks, as are the pools at the Grand Hyatt Seoul (p152) and Banyan

43 Lonely Planet’s Top Best for Hiking Chunjiyun Spa (p83) Popu- PLAN YOUR TRIP SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Choices lar for its pinewood saunas and Inwangsan (p132) Old city green-tea baths. Cycle along the Han River walls and shamanist shrines. Itaewonland (p105) Local (p87) Hire a bicycle and get Ansan (p132) Level hiking favourite with good-value treat- some exercise on the lanes run- trail, sunrise views. ments and spas. ning either side of the Han. Bukaksan (p132) Bring your Happy Day Spa (p151) A Dragon Hill Spa & Resort passport as this is a high- reasonably good 24-hour sauna (p105) The best of Seoul’s security area. and jjimjil-bang in the Marigold inner-c­ ity jjimjil-bang Hotel. experiences. Best Spas & Bukaksan (p132) Hike along- Jjimjil-bang Best for Live Sports side the old Seoul city wall. Taekwondo Experience Dragon Hill Spa & Resort Jamsil Baseball Stadium Program (p42) Join a practice (p105) Complex of pools, sau- (p117) Enjoy an evening out at session for this martial art at nas and spas, including some the ball game. Namsangol Hanok Village. infused with cedar or ginseng. World Cup Stadium (p94) Ice Skating on Seoul Plaza Silloam Sauna (p83) Range As well as soccer games there’s (p42) Enjoy this central of spas to go with massage a 24-hour sauna and gym here. outdoor rink set up each winter treatments. Jangchung Gymnasium next to City Hall. Spa Lei (p117) Classy (p123) Arena for ssireum. Watch a baseball game (p41) women-only spa in Gangnam. Head to Seoul Sports Complex and cheer along with the crowds.

4 4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd VINCENT_ST_THOMAS / GETTY IMAGES © Explore Seoul Gwanghwamun & Itaewon & Around. . . . 95 Northern Seoul. . . . . . 124 Jongno-gu. . . . . . . . . . 48 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 101 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 131 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 105 Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 132 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 66 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Myeong-dong & Gangnam & South Day Trips from Jung-gu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 of the Han River. . . . 106 Seoul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Demilitarized Zone & Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Joint Security Area. . . . . . . 134 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Heyri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 81 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 114 Suwon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Incheon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Ganghwado. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . . 83 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 117 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . 145 Western Seoul. . . . . . . 84 Dongdaemun & Eastern Seoul. . . . . . . 118 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 91 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 122 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . . 94 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 123

45 SEOUL’S TOP SIGHTS Gyeongbokgung............... 50 Changdeokgung................52 Bukchon Hanok Village.....53 Jongmyo.............................54 Jogye-sa..............................55 Cheong-gye-cheon............56 Namsan & N Seoul Tower....................73 Namdaemun Market & Around................................ 74 Deoksugung....................... 75 City Hall...............................76 National Museum of Korea...................................97 War Memorial of Korea.... 98 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art.................. 99 Olympic Park....................108 Lotte World.......................109 Bongeun-sa...................... 110 Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park.....................120 Korea Furniture Museum............................126 Seodaemun Prison History Hall���������������������129 Demilitarized Zone & Joint Security Area.........134 Statues at Bongeun-sa (p110)

Neighbourhoods at a Glance ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 46 Neighbourhoods at a Glance 1 Gwanghwamun & derings between galleries, cafes and bou- tiques. South of Bukchon are the mazelike Jongno-gu (p48) and touristy streets of Insa-dong, and the up-and-coming hanok area of Ikseon-dong. The centuries-old heart of Seoul revolves around these once-regal quarters of palaces. 2 Myeong-dong & Jung-gu Between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeok- gung, Bukchon covers several smaller areas (p71) including Samcheong-dong and Gahoe-d­ ong famous for its traditional hanok (wooden Seoul’s retail world bursts forth in the homes). Seochon is a popular area for wan- brightly lit, packed-to-the-gills and supreme- 6666666 7# 666666SEODAEMUN-GU SEONGBUK-GU Bukchon Hanok Village MAPO-GU 1Gyeongbokgung æ# # æ#æ# Changdeokgung Jogye-sa æ# æ# Jongmyo DONGDAEMUN-GU 66666Deoksugung V#æ# City Hall Dongdaemun 6# æ# Design Plaza Namdaemun æ# Market & Park 3 2# # æ# Namsan & N Seoul Tower YONGSAN-GU 4# 6666666(HHaann YEOUIDO Rivgaerng) â# YEONGDEUNGPO-GU 666666National Museum 5# of Korea 1111GANGNAM-GU 1111 1111 1111 1111 66 6661 1 1 1

47 ly noisy streets of Myeong-dong. This is 4 Itaewon & Around (p95) NEIGHBOURHOODS AT A GLANCE  Seoul’s equivalent of London’s Oxford St or New York’s Fifth Ave, with the massive, The off-limits US army base is like a giant 24-hour Namdaemun Market on hand just void around which Yongsan-gu’s sights and in case you need to exponentially add to attractions revolve. You’ll surely be paying a your shopping options. Looming over the visit or two to Itaewon to sample its eating, commercial frenzy are the peaceful and drinking and shopping possibilities. The tree-clad slopes of Namsan, a great place adjacent areas of Hannam-dong, Haebang- for exercise and city views. chon (aka HBC) and Gyeongridan should be on your radar for the same reasons. The 3 Western Seoul (p84) area has several major museums and a top resortlike jjimjil-bang (upmarket sauna). Seoul’s principal student quarter is home to Hongdae (around Hongik University), 5 Gangnam & South of the Edae (around Ewha Womans University) and Sinchon (between Yonsei and Sogang Han River (p106) Universities). These are youthful, creative districts short on traditional sights, big on Gangnam (meaning south of the river) is modern-day diversions and sybaritic enter- a relatively newly built area with high- tainments. South of Hongdae across the rise blocks bisected by broad highways. Han River, the island of Yeouido has several Expansive areas of greenery figure, too, in places of interest, all easily visited if you the shape of Olympic Park, the strip of rec­ hire a bike at its riverside or central park. reation areas along the Han River, and, just outside the city limits, Seoul Grand Park. 666e# 0 5 km Luxury label boutiques are clustered in 0 2.5 miles Apgujeong and Cheongdam. You’ll also find several major performance-arts centres across the district. JUNGNANG-GU 6 Dongdaemun & Eastern 666MIGUM-SI Seoul (p118) 666GWANGJIN-GU The sprawling, high-rise, 24-hour shopping experience that is Dongdaemun is the larg- est of several markets east of the city. You can shop for clothing here, and flea-market goods, antiques and herbal medicines fur- ther east. Dramatic contemporary architec- ture is provided by Dongdaemun Plaza & Park, while a stroll along a quieter section of the Cheong-gye-cheon is a pleasant way to reconvene with nature. GANGDONG-GU 7 Northern Seoul (p124) 666 Some of Seoul’s most charming neigh- bourhoods are clustered on three of the city’s guardian mountains. Downhill from HANAM-SI Naksan you’ll find the student and 6666#÷OPalyrmk pic performing-a­rts hub of Daehangno. Mov- ing anticlockwise across to Bukaksan first comes Seongbuk-dong then Buam-dong, quietly affluent residential districts. The slopes of Inwangsan are home to the city’s most famous shamanist shrine and there’s a good park dedicated to the country’s inde- SONGPA-GU pendence at Seodaemun.

4 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu GWANGHWAMUN | INSA-DONG | BUKCHON | SAMCHEONG-DONG Neighbourhood Top Five 4 Learn about Buddhism 1 Admire the scale and 2 Discover Huwon, artistry of Gyeongbokgung the serene traditional at Jogye-sa (p55), one of (p50), the largest of garden secreted behind Seoul’s most active temples Seoul’s palaces, fronted by Changdeokgung (p52). and epicentre of the spec- the grand gateway Gwang- tacular Lotus Lantern hwamun, where you can 3 Get lost in picturesque Festival in May. watch the changing of the guard. Bukchon Hanok Village 5 Browse the impressive (p53), the city’s densest cluster of traditional-style collection of contemporary homes. art at the Arario Museum in SPACE (p59). SEONGBUK- GU Cheongwadae-ro Sa m cheong-ro Samcheong Bukchon-ro Park Gyedong-gil SEOCHON Samcheong-ro Donhwamun-ro1#2# Samil-daero3# Hyoja-ro JONGNO-GU 5# Yulgok-ro Jahamun-ro Jongmyo 4# Yulgok-ro Samil-daero 32-gil #æ Sejong-daeroINSA-DONG IKSEON- Jongmyo Ujeongguk-ro DONG Park Samil-daeroInsa-dong 5-gil Saemunan-ro Jong-ro #æ Cheong-gye-cheon e# 0 500 m 0 0.25 miles For more detail of this area, see Maps p210, p208 and p212 A