99 Mġarr \\# Madliena \\# San Pawl \\# Tat- \\# Għargħur \\# Tarġa \\# \\# Naxxar San Ġwann Żebbiegħ \\# Firo-mRimħ /·124 /·17 \\# Mosta 'Bay € 66/·16 \\# Lija National Balzan \\# #11 ·/125 #10 /·117 \\# #\\ \\# Għemieri Birkirkara Baħrija ·/124 É Ghain Stadium ·/\\# Attard É Qajjied \\# Mdina 7 L-Andrijet \\# \\# Rabat /·#\\#9 7 \\# ·/21 Mtaħleb /·\\#Hal 133 \\# Żebbuġ Qormi \\# /·16 Bajjada Dingli #\\ É #5 #4 Din#7gl#i 8C#l6iffs #3 /·117 É É R \\# Siġġiewi \\# Tas Salvatur MEDITERRANEAN T(2a5'Ż3umta) Tal Bajjada #\\Tal Providenza \\# Mqabba C e ntr a l M a lta A roun d M d i na & R abat SEA \\# e# 0 5 km Għar Lapsi #2 &~ \\# Qrendi 0 2.5 mile Żurrieq \\# Ħaġar Qim #1 22Driving Tour Temples, Sea Cliffs & Gardens START ĦAĠAR QIM & MNAJDRA are a hugely popular outing for the Maltese, FINISH FOMM IR-RIĦ LENGTH APPROX 15KM; ONE HOUR and the groves of Aleppo pine, oak, olive and In this remarkably small area you can experi- orange trees provide shady picnic sites in ence some of Malta’s finest prehistoric tem- ples, some breathtaking stretches of coast, summer and orange-scented walks in winter. grand palaces and mysterious cart ruts, on a trip around the island’s most traditional Close by you’ll see 5Verdala Palace, which region. was built in 1586 as a summer residence for Start your tour at the megalithic temples Grand Master Hugues Loubeux de Verdalle. It of 1Ħaġar Qim & Mnajdra, with sweep- was designed in the form of a square castle ing views over the coast. From here, drive with towers at each corner, but only for show down to 2Għar Lapsi, then take the road – it was intended to be a hunting retreat. inland through the Girgenti Valley. Next, veer towards the coast again, along the southern Next, double back to the cliffs to rejoin the end of Dingli Cliffs. After about a kilometre, panoramic road, passing the 6Chapel of turn inland to visit the 3Cart Ruts – mys- St Mary Magdalene. After travelling a short terious prehistoric tracks – at Clapham Junc- distance to the north you’ll see the outland- tion. From here it’s a short drive to 4Bus- ish 7Radar Tower perched on the edge of the cliffs; right by here is 8The Cliffs, for kett Gardens (from the Italian boschetto, meaning ‘little wood’), Malta’s only extensive some lunch. woodland area. The gardens were planted by the Knights as a hunting ground; today they After lunch, drive inland to 9Rabat, from where you can take Triq Ghajn Qajjet westwards towards the village of aBaħrija. Where the village’s road splits, take the right-hand fork and follow the road towards the coast. When the road forks, turn right; this will lead you down to a viewpoint over bFomm ir-Riħ Bay.
100 restaurant with a narrow, glass-framed ter- former site of the RAF station, with stars race running around it. It specialises in local of the show including a WWII Spitfire Mk food using local produce, such as wild as- IX and a Hawker Hurricane IIa, salvaged in paragus and garlic, local cheeses and honey, 1995 after 54 years at the bottom of the sea and Maltese wines. off Malta’s southwest coast. Other aircraft on display include a vintage Flying Flea, a It’s more than just a restaurant, with lots De Havilland Vampire T11, a Fiat G91R and of information on the area’s topography, and a battered old Douglas Dakota DC-3. also sells quince, chutney and jam. There’s a CitySightseeing Malta (p177) open-top bus tour stop (North Route) out- Bobbyland Restaurant MALTESE €€ side the museum. Buses 51, 52 and 53 stop (%2145 2895; mains €9-20; h12.30-3pm Tue- here on their routes between Rabat and Sun Oct-May, 12.30-3pm Tue-Sun & 7-10pm Tue-Sat Valletta. Jun-Sep) At the northwest end of the Dingli Cliffs you’ll find Bobbyland, a fine setting for a drink or a meal before a postprandial clifftop stroll. This rustic former Nissen hut Dingli Cliffs is 500m from the Dingli junction; food and service are distinctly average at best, but its Dingli was named after either the Maltese airy outdoor seating makes it a good choice architect Tommaso Dingli (1591–1666) or his for kids. Specialities include fried rabbit, 16th-century English namesake Sir Thomas and there’s also pizza. Dingley, who lived nearby. It’s a quiet village C e ntr a l M a lta D i n g l i C l i ffs with not much to it, apart from a new, rec- 88 Getting There & Away ommended farm restaurant. But less than a kilometre to the southwest the land falls Bus 52 runs from Valletta (45 minutes, at least away at the spectacular 220m-high Dingli hourly). Bus 201 connects Dingli with Rabat (15 Cliffs. A potholed tarmac road runs along minutes, hourly) and, in the other direction, the top of the cliffs, and it’s well worth head- runs along the coast to Ħaġar Qim (20 minutes), ing here for some great walks south, past the Blue Grotto and the airport (45 minutes). the incongruous radar tower to the lonely Bus 202 runs between Dingli, Rabat, Mosta (35 little 17th-century Chapel of St Mary Mag- minutes, hourly), Sliema (1 hour 10 minutes) and dalene and onwards to Ta’Żuta (253m), the St Julian’s. highest point on the Maltese Islands. Here you’ll enjoy excellent views along the coast Clapham Junction to the tiny island of Filfla. Continue past the entrance to Buskett Gar- 5 Eating dens and follow the signs to reach a rough track signposted ‘Cart Tracks’. To the right oDiar il-Bniet MALTESE €€ (west) of this track is a large area of slop- (%2762 0727; www.diarilbniet.com; Main St, ing limestone pavement, scored with sever- Ħad-Dingli; mains €8.25-20; hnoon-3pm daily & al sets of intersecting prehistoric ‘cart ruts’. 6.30-9pm Mon-Sat) With all produce sourced The name Clapham Junction – a notoriously from ‘the house of the girls’, their farm complicated railway junction in London – around 200m away, or other local produc- was given to the site by British visitors. ers, this lovely family-run farmhouse res- taurant is something special, located in a historic farmhouse in the centre of Dingli village. Dishes include deliciously stuffed Mosta aubergines or courgettes, homemade pies and fried rabbit, followed by desserts worth POP 20, 240 leaving space for, such as date and anisette tart. Mosta is a busy and prosperous town spread across a level plateau, famous for its splen- oThe Cliffs MALTESE €€ did domed church. It’s also an ideal start- ing point for exploring the Victoria Lines (p89). (%2145 5470; www.thecliffs.com.mt; mains €7.50- 1 Sights & Activities 19.50; h10.30am-4pm & 7-10.30pm Fri & Sat Oct- May, 10.30am-4pm & 7-10.30pm Wed-Mon Jun-Sep; W) Close to Dingli’s radar tower, on the cliffs, Mosta Dome CHURCH this place is run by two local brothers and is (%2143 3826; Pjazza Rotunda; donations wel- come; h9-11.45am & 3-5pm Mon-Sat) The Parish an attractive, contemporary, brasserie-style Church of Santa Maria, better known as the
101 CART RUTS C e ntr a l M a lta M os ta One of the biggest mysteries of Malta’s prehistoric period is the abundance of so-called ‘cart ruts’ throughout the islands. In places where bare limestone is exposed, it is often scored with a series of deep parallel grooves, looking for all the world like ruts worn by cartwheels. But the spacing of the ruts varies, and their depth – up to 60cm – means that wheeled carts would probably get jammed if they tried to use them. A more likely explanation is that the grooves were created by a travois – a sort of sled formed from two parallel poles joined by a frame and dragged behind a beast of burden, similar to that used by Native Americans of the Great Plains of North America. The occur- rence of the ruts correlates quite closely to the distribution of Bronze Age villages in Malta. This still leaves the question of what was being transported. Suggestions have includ- ed salt and building stone, but it has been argued that whatever the cargo was, it must have been abundant, heavy and well worth the effort involved in moving it. The best sug- gestion to date is that the mystery substance was topsoil – it was carted from low-lying areas to hillside terraces to increase the area of cultivable land, and so provide food for a growing population. In some places the ruts are seen to disappear into the sea on one side of a bay, only to re-emerge on the far side. In other spots they seem to disappear off the edge of a cliff. These instances have given rise to all sorts of weird theories, but they are most convincingly explained as the results of long-term erosion and sea-level changes due to earthquakes – the central Mediterranean is a seismically active area and Malta is riddled with geological faults. Good places to see the ruts and come up with your own theories include Clapham Junction near Buskett Gardens and the top of the Ta’Ċenċ cliffs on Gozo (p122). Rotunda or Mosta Dome, was designed by 5 Eating the Maltese architect Giorgio Grognet de Vassé and built (1833–60) using funds raised Pjazza Café CAFE € by the local people. It has a stunning blue, (%2141 3379; 1st level, Pjazza Rotunda; mains €7- gold and white interior, where you can also 17; h9am-11pm) At the elevated Pjazza Café see the bomb that fell through it in 1942 you can enjoy great views of the dome from as around 300 parishioners waited to hear a table by the window, while downing a light Mass. Miraculously, the bomb failed to det- lunch or snack, pizza or pasta. onate – a replica is to the left of the altar in the sacristy. The church’s circular design Ta’Marija Restaurant MALTESE €€ with a six-columned portico was closely (%2143 4444; www.tamarija.com; Triq il-Kostituzz- based on the Pantheon in Rome, and the joni; mains €8.50-30; hnoon-2.30pm Tue-Sun, great dome – a prominent landmark (its ex- 6.30-11pm daily) Ta’Marija Restaurant is one ternal height is 61m) – is visible from most of Malta’s most highly rated restaurants in parts of Malta. With a diameter of 39.6m, terms of authentic Maltese cuisine, with it’s one of the world’s largest domes, though a traditional kenura (stone) stove used to dome comparison is a tricky business: the heat side dishes. It’s a great choice if you parishioners of Xewkija on Gozo claim that don’t mind a bit of (dare we say?) cheesy en- their church has a bigger dome than Mos- tertainment with your meal, as there’s reg- ta’s – although the Gozitan Rotunda has a ular folkloric entertainment and traditional smaller diameter (25m), it is higher and has Maltese folk music. a larger volumetric capacity. So there! Bidnija Horse Riding School HORSE RIDING 88 Getting There & Away (%7999 2326; www.bidnijahorseriding.com; Bidni- ja; h9am-dusk) Just northwest of Mosta, on Numerous buses pass through Mosta. From Val- the road to St Paul’s Bay, Bidnija offers horse letta take bus 41, 42 or 44 (30 minutes). Buses rides from one to seven hours, accompanied 41 and 42 go on to St Paul’s Bay (25 minutes), by qualified instructors. Mellieħa (40 minutes) and then Ċirkewwa (for Gozo; 55 minutes). Bus 31 connects with Buġib- ba, and bus 205 with St Julian’s. Buses stop by the Rotonda.
102 C e ntr a l M a lta N a x x ar FOMM IR-RIĦ: SECRET SWIMMING SPOT Fomm ir-Riħ (meaning ‘mouth of the wind’) is Malta’s most remote and difficult-to-reach bay. During rough weather, the grey clay slopes and limestone crags merge with the grey clouds and the wave-muddied waters. But on a calm summer’s day it’s a beautiful spot, with good swimming and snorkelling in the clear blue waters off the southern cliffs, and few other people to disturb the peace. Locals will marvel at any nonlocals who manage to find it! You’ll need your own trans- port. Head to the village of Baħrija, and after passing through, take the right fork next to the children’s playground. About 1.2km from Baħrija’s town square the road drops down to the left into a valley; drive down the road until you reach a junction with ‘RTO’ (reservato) painted on the wall. Turn right and follow this road down to a small parking area. To reach the head of the bay, you need to follow a precarious footpath across a stream bed and along a ledge in the cliffs. Locals say that former Maltese Prime Minister Dom Mintoff used to ride his horse along this path – today posts have been cemented in place to prevent horses and bicycles using it. If you fancy participating in the Maltese Sunday lunch ritual of dining on authentic dishes (including horse meat and rabbit), there are a handful of unassuming options on Baħrija’s square, such as Ta’Gagin (%2145 0825; Triq Patri Tumas Xerri; mains €15-22; h5- 11pm Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun) and North Country Bar & Restaurant (%2145 6688; Triq Is-Sajf Ta’ San Martin; mains €15; h6pm-midnight Tue-Sat, noon-midnight Sun). Naxxar 5 Eating POP 13,445 Luna CAFE €€ (%2141 2461; Pjazza Vittorja; mains €11-28; Naxxar, a couple of kilometres northeast of h9.30-11.45am & noon-2.45pm, tea 3-6pm) In the Mosta (so close the towns almost merge), is aristocratic surroundings of Palazzo Parisio a graceful, stately town that is off the tour- you’ll find the excellent Luna restaurant, ist trail and has a few important historic patrolled by gracious, white-clad staff serv- sights. ing superb coffee, luscious cakes, tempting 1 Sights lunch specials, elegant afternoon teas, and dinner. You can also eat out in the gardens. Childen are welcome during the day. Palazzo Parisio HISTORIC BUILDING (%2141 2461; www.palazzoparisio.com; Pjazza 88 Getting There & Away Vittorja; adult/child €12/5 incl audioguide, garden free; h9am-6pm) The glorious Palazzo Pa- To get to Naxxar, take bus 31 or 37 from Valletta, risio was originally built in 1733 by Grand or bus 225 from St Julian’s, which goes on to Master Antonio Manoel de Vilhena, then Golden Bay, via Mosta. acquired and refurbished by a Maltese noble family in the late 19th century. The magnificent interior (in particular the gild- ed ballroom) and baroque gardens resem- Birkirkara & ble a miniature Versailles. You can also eat the Three Villages at Luna restaurant, and tea in the gardens is particularly lovely. The main road from Valletta to Mosta passes through the town of Birkirkara (popula- Parish Church of Our Lady CHURCH tion 22,245), one of the biggest population centres on the island and part of the huge The Parish Church of Our Lady is one of the conurbation that encircles Valletta and the tallest baroque edifices in Malta. Construc- Three Cities. tion was started in the early years of the 16th century, according to the designs of Vittorio Just west of Birkirkara is an upmarket Cassar (son of the more famous Gerolamo suburban area known as the Three Villag- Cassar, who designed Verdala Palace). es, centred on the medieval settlements of Attard, Balzan and Lija. Although modern
103 development has fused the three into a con- Maria Rosa Winery WINERY tinuous urban sprawl, the old village centres still retain their parish churches and narrow (%7900 4330; mariarosawineestate.com; Sqaq streets, and there are some interesting sites Il-Ħofra; wine & food pairing €25; h9am-4pm Mon- here, particularly Attard’s grand mansions Fri) The small, family-run Maria Rosa estate and gardens. just south of Attard stands on 4.2 hectares of agricultural land, which produce three Triq il-Mdina, the main road that skirts varieties of grape: cabernet sauvignon, Syr- the southern edge of Attard, follows the ah and Sirakuzan. The winery runs regular line of the Wignacourt Aqueduct, built be- tours and tastings; call for details. tween 1610 and 1614 to improve the water supply to Valletta. Substantial lengths of Church of St Mary CHURCH the ancient structure still stand beside the road. (Pjazza Tommaso Dingli; h7am-6pm) The Church of St Mary in Attard, designed by Tommaso Dingli and built between 1613 and 1616, is one 1 Sights of the finest Renaissance churches in Malta. San Anton Palace & Gardens GARDENS Church of St Saviour CHURCH (Triq Birkirkara; h7am-6pm) The early-17th- (Misraħ it-Trasfigurazzjoni; h7am-7pm) Lija’s century San Anton Palace in Attard was the Church of St Saviour, designed in 1694, has country mansion of Grand Master Antoine one of Malta’ earliest domes. It’s the focus of de Paule. It served as the official residence the Feast of the Transfiguration of Our Lord, of the British Governor of Malta, and now is a lively festa (feast day), famed for its spec- that of the Maltese president. You can visit tacular fireworks, held on 6 August. the lovely walled gardens, which contain groves of citrus and avocado, as well as a 5 Eating C e ntr a l M a lta B irkirkara & t h e T h ree V i l l ages bird aviary. The Eagle Fountain, just inside the main gate, dates from the 1620s. There’s plenty of choice at the gracious Corinthia Palace Hotel in Attard – the Villa Bologna HISTORIC BUILDING elegant Villa Corinthia (%2144 0301; Vjal de Paule; mains €16-28; h7-10pm) for fine dining; (%2141 7973; www.villabologna.com; Triq Sant’Ant- Rickshaw (%2544 2190; Vjal de Paule; mains nin; adult/child €6/free; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am- €12-30; h7-11pm Tue-Sat) offering pan-Asian 1pm Sat) This baroque 18th-century mansion cuisine; and the Summer Kitchen (Vjal de in Attard, still owned by and inhabited by Paule; mains €8-10; h11am-4pm & 7-11pm May- the same family who built it, has wonderful Oct), a seasonal alfresco pizza-and-pasta eat- gardens whose greenery is like balm to the ery that’s good for families. eyes; there were some lovely features added in the 1920s such as the sunken pond and the dolphin garden. The villa also contains Melita Gardens MEDITERRANEAN € (%2147 0663; Triq id-Dmejda; mains €7-22; the marvellous Ceramika Maltija pottery, h10am-11pm; W) By the entrance to the San producing handmade ceramics made to tra- ditional designs. Anton Gardens in Attard; its outdoor seat- ing is particularly balmy, with sunshades, wrought-iron chairs and tables, and green- Church of St Helen CHURCH ery. The menu ticks the pizza, pasta and (Is-Santwarju; h6am-7pm) Birkirkara’s Church posh burger boxes, the atmosphere is noisy, of St Helen is probably the most ornate of Malta’s churches, a late flowering of baroque and it’s a great choice for families. exuberance built in the mid-18th century. 88 Getting There & Away On the strength of his performance here, the designer, Domenico Cachia, was given the Buses 51, 52 and 53 travel between Valletta and job of remodelling the facade of the Auberge Attard, going on to Mdina and Rabat, and bus 52 de Castile in Valletta. goes on to Dingli. The X3 travels here from the airport, via Paola.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Southeast Malta Includes A Why Go? Marsaxlokk ................. 105 Several of Malta’s most extraordinary historical sites lie in Birżebbuġa ................. 108 the less visited southeast of the country, including its most Marsaskala................. 109 breathtakingly located prehistoric temples (Ħaġar Qim and Żurrieq ....................... 109 Mnajdra) dating back over 5000 years, and the Għar Dalam Ħaġar Qim & cave, full of fossilised remains of prehistoric animals. There’s Mnajdra........................ 110 splendid coastal scenery, too, boat trips to visit grottoes, and Għar Lapsi.................... 112 some fabulous swimming spots off the tourist trail. It’s also the base of much of the country’s heavy industry, which Best Places means tourism is less developed here, though many locals to Eat head to the southeast to eat out at the weekend. In fact, the world and his wife descend on the sometime fishing village ¨¨Tartarun (p105) of Marsaxlokk for its Sunday fish market and to eat seafood ¨¨Ir-Rizzu (p105) at the small town’s many restaurants, fronted by a harbour ¨¨La Campana (p108) full of bobbing, colourful boats. ¨¨Tal-Familja (p109) When to Go Best Off the Beaten Track ¨¨Late spring and early autumn (May, June and September) are ideal months to be in this part of the country, while high ¨¨St Peter’s Pool (p105) summer will see the area at its busiest. ¨¨Għar Dalam Cave & ¨¨Avoid the Blue Grotto and Għar Lapsi on public holidays as Museum (p108) they’ll be packed. ¨¨Delimara Point (p105)
105 Marsaxlokk the riches of the Med before they’re whisked off to Malta’s top hotels and restaurants. The POP 3535 market starts early in the morning and the best stuff is long gone by afternoon. The ancient fishing village of Marsaxlokk (marsa-shlock; from marsa sirocco, mean- oSt Peter’s Pool BAY ing ‘southeasterly harbour’) at the head of Marsaxlokk Bay remains resolutely a slice of St Peter’s Pool is a fantastic swimming spot, real Maltese life, despite the encroachment a natural lido in the rocks with large areas of of industry and the descent of hundreds of flat slab for sunbathing between swims. Fol- tourists every Sunday for its weekly fish and low the narrow road out towards Delimara souvenir market. Lighthouse until you are just past the power station chimney (about 1.5km from the main Old low-rise houses ring the waterfront, road), and you’ll see a low building on the and a photogenic fleet of brightly coloured left with ‘Peter’s Pool’ signposted on it. luzzu (fishing boats) dance in the harbour. A rough track leads down to a small park- Men with weathered faces sit by the water- ing area – if you meet a car coming the other side mending nets and grumbling about the way it’ll be a face-off over who’ll back up. tax on diesel, while others scrape, paint and Don’t leave valuables in your car. saw as they ready their boats for the sea. The town is home to around 70% of the Mal- Delimara Point AREA tese fishing fleet, and is – not surprisingly – renowned for its top-notch seafood restau- Delimara Point, southeast of Marsaxlokk, rants, making it a magnet for long-lunching is blighted by a huge power station whose locals and bus loads of day trippers. chimney can be seen for miles around, but there are a few good swimming places on Marsaxlokk makes for a relaxed base once the eastern side of the peninsula, where the Sunday hoards have left. If you’re after the power station isn’t in view, and this is nightlife into the wee small hours you’ll be a pleasant place to walk. You can access St disappointed, but if you’re looking to chill Peter’s Pool from here, and walk on to a out (and regularly tuck into all manner of large scoop of bay called Ħofra Iz-Zghira, fishy morsels), you’ll be happy. which has some salt pans. Southeast Malta Marsa xlokk History Waterfront Market MARKET Marsaxlokk Bay is Malta’s second natural The Sunday fish stalls are far outnumbered harbour. It was here that the Turkish fleet by the stalls of this daily market that mainly was moored during the Great Siege of 1565, sells kitsch aimed at tour groups visiting the and Napoleon’s army landed here during town. the French invasion of 1798. In the 1930s the calm waters of the bay were used as a 5 Eating staging post by the huge, four-engined Short C-Class flying boats of Britain’s Imperial It’s all about the seafood in Marsaxlokk. Res- Airways as they pioneered long-distance air taurants ranging from casual to smart line travel to the far-flung corners of the Empire. the harbour, most offering alfresco dining. During WWII Marsaxlokk Bay was the base Booking is advised. for the Fleet Air Arm, and in 1989 the fa- mous summit meeting between Soviet and oTartarun SEAFOOD €€ US leaders Mikhail Gorbachev and George (%2165 8089; www.tartarun.com; Xatt is-Sajjieda; Bush (senior) was held on board a warship mains €10.50-26.50; hnoon-3.30pm Tue-Sun, 7.30- anchored in the bay. Today the harbour is 10.30pm Tue-Sat) Locals love upmarket Tar- framed by the fuel tanks and chimney of a tarun, which offers a more sophisticated take power station and the huge cranes of the on all things fishy. Dishes such as sea bream, Kalafrana Container Terminal – eyesores roasted prawn and cherry tomatoes are per- that dominate this once entirely scenic part fectly executed. There are a few outside tables, of the Maltese coast. though they’re somewhat traffic-plagued on Sunday. 1 Sights & Activities Ir-Rizzu SEAFOOD €€ (%2165 1569; 52 Xatt is-Sajjieda; mains €8.50- 18.50; h11.30am-3pm daily, 6-10pm Mon-Sat) Sunday Fish Market MARKET At Marsaxlokk’s colourful, packed-to-the- Ir-Rizzu was opened by a fisherman nearly gills Sunday Fish Market, you can admire 30 years ago and is now run by his sons. It
106 #\\ 66 Mdina #\\ Attard ·/7 w #\\ /·21 w Southeast Malta Marsa xlokk w Rabat ·/21 #\\ Qormi #\\ Żebbuġ Girgenti Valley Siġġiewi #\\ Tas Salvatur #\\ ·/132 #– Malta International Airport #\\ Tal Providenza Tal Bajjada #\\ #\\ Mqabba /·117 Qrendi Ħal #\\ Millieri Ħagar Qim & Mnajdra #æ Għar Lapsi #1 #\\ Żurrieq ö# /·117 Watchtower Wied iż-Żurrieq #3 Blue Grotto MEDITERRANEAN SEA Southeast Malta Highlights 1 Question who, when, how 2 Leap into the glittering 3 Take a mid-morning boat and why, while drinking in the royal blue waters of St Peter’s trip to marvel at the Blue scenery at the mysterious Pool (p105). Grotto (p110). temples of Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra (p110).
107 Ħamrun Xgħajra \\# #\\ \\# Żabbar V# Fort \\# Paola St Leonardo ·/26 \\# Żonqor Żonqor Point \\# Tarxien Marsaskala \\# MarsaskBaalay Luqa ·/9 St Thomas' V# \\# Tower \\# Żejtun /·134 St Thomas ·/9 Ù# Bay Il- Munxar Southeast Malta Marsa xlokk w Ħal-Għaxaq\\# /·30 Tas Silġ w /·1 (200m) R ·/29 #5 Marsaxlokk Għar Dalam ##æ4 Ħofra Iz- Zghira Cave & Museum Fort Delimara St Lucian V# #2 St Peter's Marsaxlokk Bay Pool /·117 Birżebbuġa \\# Fort V# Pretty Delimara Ù# Bay ö#õ Delimara Delimara Point Lighthouse ·/1 Malta Freeport PBoeinngtħisa æ# Għar Ħasan Cave e#0 2 km 0 1 miles 4 Explore the mysterious 5 Devour seafood with a underworld of Għar Dalam view of bobbing fishing boats Cave & Museum (p108). in Marsaxlokk (p105).
108 MALTESE BOATS The brightly coloured fishing boats that crowd the harbours around the coast have become one of Malta’s national symbols. Painted boldly in blue, red and yellow, with the watchful ‘Eyes of Osiris’ on the bows to ward off evil spirits, the luzzu (loots-zoo) is a large double-ended fishing boat (for nonsailors, that means it’s pointed at both ends). The kajjik (ka-yik) is similar in appearance, but has a square transom (it’s pointed at the front end only). The dgħajsa (dye-sa) is a smaller and racier-looking boat, with a very high stem and stern-posts – a bit like a Maltese gondola. These are not solid, seaworthy fishing boats, but sleek water taxis. They were once all powered by oars, but today’s dgħajsas generally carry an outboard engine. has a bustling dining room, and some outside the Għar Dalam Cave and Museum, 500m tables. Check out the mind-boggling list of north on the main road from Valletta. Għar local piscatorial specimens, with everything Dalam (aar-da-lam; the name means ‘cave of from lampuka (dolphin fish) and delicious darkness’) is a 145m-long cave in the Lower octopus salad to king prawns or a hearty Coralline Limestone. It has yielded a mag- bowl of aljotta (Maltese fish soup). nificent harvest of fossil bones and teeth. The lowermost layers of the cavern, over La Campana SEAFOOD €€ 500,000 years old, yielded remains belong- (%2165 7755; 60 Xatt is-Sajjieda; mains €16.50- ing to dwarf elephants, hippopotamuses, 18.50; hnoon-3pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sun) This lit- micro-mammals and birds. tle local favourite is famous for its delicious fish and some serious eating goes on here. The animals are all of European type, sug- It’s packed out with locals – reserve ahead, gesting that Malta was once joined to Italy, especially if you’d like one of the few outside but not to northern Africa. It’s also where tables. the first signs of human habitation on Malta, So u th e as t M a lta B i r żebb u ġ a from 7400 years ago, have been discovered, 6 Drinking & Nightlife with remains including pottery dating back to 5200 BC and neanderthal teeth found in Southport Villa BAR the top layer. (Xatt is-Sajjieda; hVino Lounge 7pm-late, Concept The museum at the entrance contains Cafe 9am-late) In a converted historic villa, this an exhibition hall with displays on how the is a restaurant-bar-cafe complex, with seating cave was formed, how the remains of such out the front and on the terrace, both of which animals came to be found here, and their are ideal for a drink overlooking the harbour. development in response to local condi- tions, as they evolved in different ways to 88 Getting There & Away such creatures elsewhere. In the older part of the museum are display cases mounted Buses 81, 82 and 85 run from Valletta to Marsax- with thousands and thousands of bones lokk regularly, via Paola. The 119 runs between and teeth. Beyond the museum a path leads here and Marsaskala (20 minutes). down through gardens to the mouth of the cave, where a walkway leads 50m into the Birżebbuġa cavern. A pillar of sediment has been left in the middle of the excavated floor to show POP 9735 the stratigraphic sequence. Birżebbuġa (beer-zeb-boo-ja, meaning ‘well Għar Ħasan Cave CAVE of the olives’) lies on the western shore of Marsaxlokk Bay. It began life as a fishing Għar Ħasan Cave lies within the cliff- village, but today it’s a dormitory town for bound coastline south of Birżebbuġa. From workers from the nearby Malta Freeport. Birżebbuġa follow the road towards Żur- 1 Sights rieq, then turn left on the minor road at the top of the hill to reach a clifftop park- oGħar Dalam Cave & ing area just before an industrial estate; Museum ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE the cave entrance is down some steps in (%2165 7419; adult/child €5/2.50; h9am-5pm) the cliff face to the left. (At the time of re- The reason to head to Birżebbuġa is to see search, the access to the cave was fenced
109 off for safety reasons – check with the tour- La Favorita SEAFOOD €€ ist office in Valletta (p57) to see if it has (%2163 4113; Triq Tal-Gardiel; mains €8-22; reopened.) hnoon-2.30pm Tue-Sun & 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat) This long-standing family-run restaurant The ‘Cave of Ħasan’ is supposed to have is popular with locals for its delicious fresh been used as a hideout by a 12th-century fish. Head here for a long lazy lunch or Saracen rebel. With a torch you can follow dinner. a passage off to the right to a ‘window’ in the cliff face. Ta’Grabiel MEDITERRANEAN €€ (%2163 4194; Pjazza Mifsud Bonnici; mains €9- 88 Getting There & Away 30; h12.30-3pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat) Elegant Ta’Grabiel combines an upmarket seafood To get to Għar Dalam and Birżebbuġa, take restaurant with a terrace kiosk-style cafe, regular bus 82 or 85 from Valletta, which run via which has less interesting food at cheaper Paola. The cave museum is on the right-hand prices (eg omelettes, pasta or roast chicken side of the road at a small, semicircular parking priced from €5 to €10). area 500m short of Birżebbuġa. There is no public transport to Għar Ħasan – it’s a 2.5km Tal-Familja SEAFOOD €€ walk south of Birżebbuġa. (%2163 2161; Triq Tal-Gardiel; mains €8-22; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sun) A local favourite, with a Marsaskala huge menu and daily specials, at the heart of which are fresh seafood and classic Maltese POP 12,135 cuisine. Marsaskala (also spelt Marsascala), gathered 88 Getting There & Away Southeast Malta Marsask al a around the head of a long, narrow bay, was originally a Sicilian fishing community: the Buses 91, 92 and 93 run regularly from Valletta name means ‘Sicilian Harbour’. Today it is to Marsaskala and bus X5 runs to the airport. an increasingly popular residential area and The bus terminus is on Triq Sant’Antnin at the seaside resort among the Maltese. It appeals southern end of the waterfront promenade. because of its great restaurants, bustling little harbour with its bobbing boats, and local feel. 1 Sights & Activities Żurrieq St Thomas Bay BEACH POP 10,820 St Thomas Bay is a deeply indented bay to The village of Żurrieq sprawls across a the south of Marsaskala, lined with concrete hillside on the south coast, in a sort of no and breeze-block huts and a potholed road, man’s land to the south of the airport. This and surrounded by apartments. It has a part of Malta feels cut off from the rest sandy beach, and the place is popular with of the island, and although it’s only 10km local people and windsurfers. It’s about a from Valletta as the crow flies, it seems 10-minute walk from Marsaskala along Triq much further. Signage from Żurrieq to Tal-Gardiel. From St Thomas Bay you can neighbouring towns is poor, but this region continue walking along the coast to Marsax- is small and it shouldn’t take long to find lokk (about 4km). the direction you need (ask locals for guid- ance if you get stuck). St Thomas’ Tower FORTRESS This small 17th-century fortress lies at the 1 Sights & Activities northern point of St Thomas Bay. It was built by the Knights of St John after a Turkish raid- Parish Church of St Catherine CHURCH ing party landed in Marsaskala Bay in 1614 The Parish Church of St Catherine was built in the 1630s and houses a fine altarpiece of and plundered the nearby village of Żejtun. St Catherine – painted by Mattia Preti in 5 Eating 1675, when the artist took refuge here dur- ing a plague epidemic – and there are sever- Locals travel across Malta to enjoy the many al 17th- and 18th-century windmills dotted restaurants of Marsaskala. The town is par- about the village. ticularly famed for its seafood.
110 5CHURCH Chapel of the Annunciation Eating & Drinking (%2122 5952; www.dinlarthelwa.org; h9am-noon 1st Sun of month) On a minor road between Step In SEAFOOD €€ Żurrieq and Mqabba is the Chapel of the (%2168 3104; Triq Wied Hoxt; mains €6.50-22; Annunciation, in the deserted medieval set- h10.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) There is a cluster of tlement of Ħal Millieri. This tiny church, set restaurants around the launching point for in a pretty garden, dates from the mid-15th Blue Grotto trips, and Step In is the pick of century and contains important 15th-century the bunch, as it wins hands down for its set- frescoes – the only surviving examples of me- ting, with a fantastic terrace offering views dieval religious art in Malta. out to sea and over to the little island of Fil- fla. It’s very informal and a great place for a BOAT TOUR drink with a view. Wied iż-Żurrieq (%2164 0058, 9945 5347; adult/child €8/4; h9am-5pm) About 2km west of Żurrieq lies 88 Getting There & Away the tiny harbour of Wied iż-Żurrieq, set in Bus 201 runs hourly from Rabat to Wied iż-Żur- a narrow inlet in the cliffs and guarded by rieq via Dingli Cliffs, Għar Lapsi and Ħaġar Qim, a watchtower. Here, boats depart, weather and goes on to the airport, via Żurrieq. Bus 71 permitting, for enjoyable 30-minute cruises connects Żurrieq (which is about 1.5km from the to the Blue Grotto, a huge natural arch in Blue Grotto harbour) with Valletta every 20 to the sea cliffs 400m to the east. 30 minutes daily. The Blue Grotto harbour is also a stop on the south route of the CitySightseeing The boat trips also take in seven caves, Malta (p177) hop-on, hop-off bus. including the Honeymoon Cave, Reflection Cave and Cat’s Cave. The best time is before mid-morning, when the sun is shining into the grotto. If Ħaġar Qim & Mnajdra there is any doubt about the weather or sea Ħaġar Qim & Mnajdra ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE conditions, call to check. (%2142 4231; heritagemalta.org; Triq Ħaġar Qim; You can see the Blue Grotto without a boat adult/child €10/5.50; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9am- from a viewing platform beside the main road, 5pm Oct-Mar) The megalithic temples of Southeast Malta Ħaġar Qim & Mna jdr a just east of the turn-off to Wied iż-Żurrieq. Ħaġar Qim (adge-ar eem; ‘standing stones’) and Mnajdra (mm-nigh-dra) are the best MEGA-ATTRACTIONS The megalithic temples of Malta, which date mainly from the period 3600 to 3000 BC, are among the oldest free-standing stone structures in the world. They pre-date the pyramids of Egypt by more than 500 years. The oldest surviving temples are thought to be those of Ta’Ħaġrat and Skorba near the village of Mġarr (p79) on Malta. Ġgantija (p128) on Gozo and Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra (p110) on Malta are among the best preserved. Tarxien (p64) is the most developed, its last phase dating from 3000 to 2500 BC. The subterranean tombs of the Hypogeum (p64) date from the same period as the temples and mimic many of their architectural features below ground. The purpose of these mysterious structures is the subject of much debate. They all share certain features in common – a site on a southeasterly slope, near to caves; a spring and fertile farmland; a trefoil or cloverleaf plan with three or five rounded cham- bers (apses) opening off the central axis, which usually faces between south and east; megalithic construction, using blocks of stone weighing up to 20 tonnes; and holes and sockets drilled into the stones, perhaps to hold wooden doors or curtains made from animal hide. Most temple sites have also revealed spherical stones, about the size of cannonballs – it has been suggested that these were used like ball bearings to move the heavy megaliths more easily over the ground. No burials have been found in any of the temples, but most have yielded statues and figurines of so-called ‘fat ladies’ – possibly fertility goddesses. Most have some form of decoration on the stone, ranging from simple pitting to the elaborate spirals and carved animals seen at Tarxien. There are also ‘oracle holes’ – small apertures in the chamber walls which may have been used by priests or priestesses to issue divinations.
111 ĦĦAaĠġAaRr QQIiMmTTEMemPLpEle Exit Remains of Pedestal corbelled roof altars 20-tonne Decorated altar and megalith slab with carved spirals Entrance Site where 'Porthole' Restored 'fat lady' doorway figurines facade were found preserved, most evocative of Malta’s pre- display in the National Museum of Archae- Southeast Malta Ħaġar Qim & Mna jdr a historic sites, with an unparalleled location ology (p44) in Valletta. atop sea cliffs. Permanent tentlike canopies have been erected over the temples to pro- Mnajdra, a 700m walk downhill from tect them from the elements. Ħaġar Qim, is more elaborate. There are three temples side by side, each with a tre- There’s an informative hands-on visitors foil plan and a different orientation. The centre to explain the background to the oldest temple is the small one on the right, structures, a children’s room where kids can aligned towards the southwest and Filfla Is- build a temple out of blocks, and an atmos- land. The central temple, pointing towards pheric if not all that informative 4D film in- the southeast, is the youngest. All date from troduction. between 3600 and 3000 BC. Ħaġar Qim is the first temple you reach In the right-hand apse there is a separate after the visitors centre. The facade, with chamber entered through a small doorway, its trilithon entrance, has been restored, with an ‘oracle hole’ to its left. The function and gives an idea of what it may once have of this is unknown. looked like. The temples were originally roofed over, probably with corbelled stone It has been claimed that the southern vaults, but these have long since collapsed. temple is full of significant solar align- ments. At sunrise during the winter sol- Before going in, look round the corner stice, a beam of sunlight illuminates the to the right – the megalith here is the larg- altar to the right of the inner doorway. At est in the temple, weighing over 20 tonnes. sunrise during the summer solstice, a sun- The temple consists of a series of inter- beam penetrates the window in the back of connected, oval chambers with no uniform the left-hand apse to the pedestal altar in arrangement, and differs from other Maltese the left rear chamber. Around the summer temples in lacking a regular trefoil plan. In (June) and winter (December) solstices, the first chamber on the left is a little altar Heritage Malta (www.heritagemalta.org) or- post decorated with plant motifs, and in the ganises special guided tours to experience second there are a couple of pedestal altars. these alignments (€25 per person; book The ‘fat lady’ statuettes and the ‘Venus de well in advance). Malta’ figurine that were found here are on
112 THE ISLET OF FILFLA Għar Lapsi Filfla is the smallest of Malta’s archi- On the road west of the Ħaġar Qim and pelago of five islands. It’s 5km off the Mnajdra temples is a turn-off (signposted) south coast of Malta, and was separated to Għar Lapsi. The name means ‘Cave of the from the mainland as the result of the Ascension’, and there was once a fishermen’s geological Maghlaq Fault. Its name shrine here. The road winds steeply to the probably comes from the Arabic filfel, coast and ends at a car park beside a couple which means chilli or pepper, and it of restaurants and boathouses. The main at- was possibly so-named because of its traction here is the swimming – a little cove shape. It suffered the ignominy of being in the low limestone cliffs has been convert- used for target practice by the British ed into a natural lido, with stone steps and armed forces until it was declared a iron ladders giving access to the limpid blue nature reserve in 1970. The islet sup- water. It’s a popular spot for bathing and ports important breeding colonies of picnicking among locals, and is well fre- seabirds, including an estimated 5000 quented by divers and fishermen. to 8000 pairs of storm petrels, as well as two species of lizard and snail not 5 Eating & Drinking found elsewhere. It’s also off limits due to unexploded shells lying in the sur- If swimming has given you an appetite, try rounding waters. one of the restaurants above the cove. There are some waymarked nature trails Carmen’s Bar & Restaurant MEDITERRANEAN € in the area surrounding the temples, which (%2146 7305; mains €8-15; h11am-10pm) This allow for splendid views out to sea. tiny bar-restaurant is set in a fisherman’s boat hut, among fishing boats, just above the On the clifftop to the southeast of Mna- Għar Lapsi swimming hole, and is a splen- jdra is a 17th-century watchtower and a me- did, simple place to sit and have a drink or morial to Sir Walter Congreve (Governor of tuck into some fresh fish. Malta 1924–27), who was buried at sea off Southeast Malta G ħar L apsi this point. You can hike west along the cliffs Blue Creek MEDITERRANEAN €€ to Għar Lapsi. The tiny uninhabited island (%2146 2786; mains €7-28; hnoon-3pm & Filfla, 5km offshore, is clearly visible. 7-10.30pm Wed-Mon) Blue Creek’s best tables are the hotly contested ones on the sunny outdoor terrace (directly above the water). The menu has something for all: snacks, 5 Eating sandwiches, pasta or seafood, including octopus stewed in red wine, and a shellfish Ħaġar Qim Restaurant MALTESE €€ platter of steamed mussels, clams, razor (%2142 4116; mains €6-20; h10am-4pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sun, 10am-4pm Mon Jun-Sep, clams and prawns. Come for lunch rather than dinner, and enjoy the setting. 10am-4pm Tue-Sun, 7-10.30pm Sat & Sun Oct- May) This pleasingly spacious restaurant, Ta’Rita Lapsi View MALTESE €€ (%2164 0608; mains €6-19; h11am-3pm & 6.30- just above the Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra car 10.30pm Tue-Sun) This 1950s-style restaurant park, has a large open-air terrace shaded by a bamboo-slatted canopy, a cheesy mu- has the look of a ’50s municipal swimming pool, with a slightly crumbling exterior sic soundtrack and some classical statuary. fronted by trestle tables, but inside is a It serves excellent beef, rabbit and fish dishes plus the usual suspects (pizza and taste of retro-Malta, an echoing place with high ceilings. As you’d expect, old-fashioned pasta). home-cooking is the order of the day, with 88 Getting There & Away burgers, rabbit, steak, lampuka and stewed octopus. There’s pizza in the evening. Bus 201 runs hourly Monday to Saturday from Rabat to Ħaġar Qim via Dingli Cliffs and Wied 88 Getting There & Away iż-Żurrieq, going on to the airport. Ħaġar Qim is also a stop on the south route of the CitySight- Bus 201 runs from Rabat along Dingli Cliffs, via seeing Malta (p177) hop-on, hop-off bus. Ħaġar Qim and to the Blue Grotto, then on to Żurrieq and the airport. Otherwise bus 71 runs from Valletta to Żurrieq via Paola.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Gozo & Comino Includes A Why Go? Victoria (Rabat) .......... 116 Gozo, called Għawdex (aow-desh) in Malti, is a gloriously Mġarr .......................... 120 pretty island, with what the 19th-century nonsense poet Mġarr ix-Xini ................122 Edward Lear called a ‘pomskizillious and gromphibber- Xewkija ........................122 ous’ landscape. He coined the words especially, looking Ta’Ċenċ ........................122 for a way to describe the island’s fairy-tale hillocks topped Xlendi ..........................122 by enormous churches, its hidden, glittering coves, and its Għarb & Around ..........124 sculptured coastal cliffs. Gozo moves at a much slower pace San Lawrenz .. ..............125 than its bigger, busier neighbour. Although it is more than Dwejra .........................125 one-third the size of Malta, it has less than one-tenth of the Marsalforn.................. 126 population – only about 30,000 Gozitans live here (and they Xagħra .........................128 are Gozitans first, Maltese second). People leave their front Nadur ......................... 130 doors unlocked; only one car has apparently ever been sto- Ramla Bay, San Blas len, and the perpetrators were arrested before they reached Bay & Daħlet Qorrot .... 132 the ferry. Comino ........................132 This is a lovely place to kick back, with sandy beaches, rocky coves, excellent scuba diving and snorkelling, plus history in the form of megalithic temples and medieval cit- adels. Best Places to Eat When to Go ¨¨Rew Rew (p122) ¨¨Gozo and Comino are at their loveliest in spring and ¨¨Tmun Mġarr (p121) autumn, when the crowds have ebbed away. ¨¨Boat House (p123) ¨¨Oleander (p130) ¨¨If you want to visit Comino’s famous Blue Lagoon, it’s much easier to enjoy its charms outside the summer months. Best Places to Stay ¨¨Still, high summer is a great time for clubbing at the island’s ¨¨Gozitan farmhouses outdoor venues. (p144) ¨¨Hotel Ta’Ċenċ (p144) ¨¨It’s also worthwhile being here during Carnival (February), ¨¨Thirtyseven (p144) Easter and Christmas to bask in local colour. ¨¨Quaint Boutique Hotel (p146) ¨¨Mia Casa (p143)
114 #1 Salt Pans Xwieni \\# Żebbuġ Bay San Wied Ù# Dimitri il-Għasri Point Qbajjar Bay Qbajjar Ù# \\# Salt Pans #6 BMaayrsalforn Għasri Val ley Gozo & C o m i n o G o z o & C o m i n o H i ghl i ghts Ü# lleyÙ# Chapel of Marsalforn \\# San Dimitri Ta'Għammar Christ #æ Statue \\# Marsalforn Va #\\ Għarb Ü# Basilica of Ta'Pinu Dwejra /·1 Għasri #\\ ·/10 Point Aqueduct ·/3 #æInland Sea Kerċem Gozo Dwejra (Qawra) Ta'Dbieġi #\\ Tower DwBejaray æ# R #æ ·/10 Fungus Ta'Dbieġi #4 R Għajn Crafts Village Abdul Dwejra Rock ^# Victoria e (Rabat) # Wardija Xewkija Point R Wardija /·\\# 1 XleBnadyi #\\Xlendi \\# Munxar æ# Rotunda V# Torri ta' Xlendi Hotel Sannat \\# Ta'Ċenċ ÿ# ä# Cart Ruts & #\\ Dolmen Ta'Ċenċ Cliffs Ta'Ċenċ ä# Cart Ruts MEDITERRANEAN SEA Gozo & Comino Highlights 1 Swim in azure coves such 2 Get red sand in your 3 Take in the incredible as Wied il-Għasri (p127). shorts at lovely San Blas Bay 360-degree views from tiny (p132). Comino (p132).
e# 0 115 0 2 km 1 mile RBamayla MEDITERRANEAN Gozo & C o m i n o G o z o & C o m i n o H i ghl i ghts Ù# SEA Calypso's #æ Cave San Blas Bay Ramla Valley #Ù#2 #\\ Xagħra /· Daħlet Ġgantija 15 Qorrot Temples Ù# ä# /·4 e # #\\ Nadur #æ Windmills Qala #\\ /·2 Qala Point Ù# Ħondoq ir-Rummien Mġarr Mġarr Harbour Għajnsielem #\\ #\\ f# Fort North Comino Channel Santa Chambray Marija Torri ta' NiBSkaalnayw Mġarr Tafal Cliffs Bay Ù# Ù# #5 V# ix-Xini LagBoloune Ù# Mġarr Fessej Rock ix-Xini Cominotto #3 Comino South V# Comino St Mary's Tower Channel ‚ To Ċirkewwa (500m) 4 Admire the coastal 5 Have a long, lazy lunch at 6 See the sun sparkle and moonscape of Dwejra Mġarr ix-Xini (p122), ideally waves crash at the salt pans (p125). having arrived in style by boat. (p126) outside Marsalforn.
116 Gozo & C o m i n o GV ioectzttooi nrgi aT(hRearbeat&) Away GOZO town of Marsalforn. It’s crowned by the tiny citadel Il-Kastell, which appears to grow out 88 Getting There & Away of its rocky outcrop. The small walled city houses numerous interesting museums. Gozo Channel (p181) runs the car and foot passenger ferry connecting Ċirkewwa in Malta Gozo’s capital is the island’s main hub and Gozo’s Mġarr (every 45 minutes from 6am of shops and services. Named for the Dia- to 10.30pm, and roughly every 1½ hours over- mond Jubilee of Queen Victoria in 1897, it night). You pay for your ticket in Mġarr on the was originally known as Rabat, and is still return trip, not on the way out. called that by many of the islanders (and on several road signs). 88 Getting Around 1 Sights BUS 1 Il-Kastell Buses tend to run daily, about hourly, and most pass through Victoria. You can buy your ticket While the walls surrounding Il-Kastell date aboard the bus, or at the ticket machines at the from the 15th century, there have been for- Victoria bus station, which is close to the town tifications atop this flat-topped hill since the centre. A two-hour ticket costs €2 between Bronze Age: it developed under the Phoeni- July and September (€1.50 between October cians and later became a Roman town. After and June); a block of 12 tickets costs €15, and a some terrible raids on Gozo by the Turks, it seven-day Explorer pass €21. City Sightseeing became customary for all the island’s fam- Gozo (www.city-sightseeing.com; adult/child ilies to stay within Il-Kastell overnight, a €18/10; h every 45min 9.45am-6.30pm) and practice that lasted into the 17th century. Malta Sightseeing Gozo (www.maltasightsee- You can walk almost all the way around the ing.com; adult/child €20/13; h every 45min city walls, for astounding views over Gozo 9.40am-3pm) offer hop-on, hop-off bus tours. and as far as the sea. CAR & BICYCLE Cathedral of the Assumption CHURCH If you want to see as much of the island as possible, then it makes sense to rent a car. It’s (Map p117; Misraħ il-Katidral; adult/child €3.50/ also even cheaper than in Malta, though in high free, incl museum; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Built season you’ll need to book ahead as supply is between 1697 and 1711 to replace a church limited. Cycling is also a great option on Gozo as destroyed by a 1693 earthquake (which was the roads are mostly quiet. If you need help on in southern Italy but caused damage as far the hills, electric bikes are ideal, but at the time away as here), the cathedral was designed by of research these were only available on Malta, Lorenzo Gafa, also responsible for St Paul’s so you can rent them there and bring them over. Cathedral (p91) at Mdina. The elegant Mayjo Car Rentals (% 2155 6678; www.mayjo- facade is adorned with the escutcheons carhire.com; Triq Fortunato Mizzi, Victoria; per of Grand Master Ramon de Perellos and day €28) A large range of cars at good rates. Bishop Palmieri. Due to a lack of funds the Victoria Garage (% 2155 6414; www.victo- dome was never finished, but a trompe l’œil riagaragegozo.com; Triq Putirjal, Victoria; painting makes it look as if it were. bicycle per day from €5, car per day €21) Victoria Garage, opposite the bus station, rents Cathedral Museum MUSEUM out bicycles (including locks) and cars. (Map p117; %2155 6087; Triq il-Fossos; adult/ TAXI child €3.50/free, incl cathedral; h9am-5pm Approximate taxi fares from Victoria include: Mon-Sat) This jumble of objects within the €10 to Marsalforn or Mġarr €10; €12 to Xagħra; Cathedral Museum includes a zucchetto and €15 to Xlendi. To book a taxi, call Belmont (skull cap) worn by Pope Francis, church Garage (p181) or Mario’s Taxis (% 2155 gold and silver, some religious art (includ- 7242). Otherwise, there’s a taxi rank near Victo- ing a disturbing 19th-century painting ria’s bus station and at Pjazza Indipendenza. depicting the martyrdom of St Agatha), and a 19th-century bishop’s carriage. Victoria (Rabat) Archaeology Museum MUSEUM POP 6900 (Map p117; %2155 6144; Triq Bieb il-Mdina; adult/ Victoria, the chief town of Gozo, sits in the child €3/1.50, incl 2 museums €5/2.50; h9am- centre of the island, 6km from the ferry ter- 5pm) Victoria’s Archaeology Museum houses minal at Mġarr and 3.5km from the resort some incredible finds. There are some ‘fat
Il-Kastell e# 0 117 ABC 100 m D 1 Triq San Triq il-Kwartier 1 Ġużepp San Ġwann 2 3 Gozo & C o m i n o GSV iogczthotosr i a ( R abat )Triq il-KwartierChapel ofÜ#Triq Bernardo St Joseph de Opuo Telgħa Tal-Beltâ# 9 St Martin's â# â# Demi-Bastion Ditch ilGM-MK#aaaitsitenriadħTâ#rarilqTú#1Br#ï65Ciiqeabitl-hiFle-oMÜ#sdsdroa5isnla 4 66662 10 # â# Citadella Centre for Culture & Art 1 Ticket Office 3 Triq il-Kastell Reservoir (covered) Ditch TrPiqjaSzizraAdrian #æ 7 Savina Church of Dingli 12 #ý St Ursula þ# #æ ú# 18 Church of Ü# 2 Pjazza Taxi Rank St James 16 Tourist 4 Indipendenza ˜# Ü# Information Triq ir-Repubblika 4 (It-Tokk) #ï Office ò# æ# ú# 11 14 13ú# Pjazza San 17 þ# Ġorġ Triq Putirjal IL-BORGO 5 ›# (50m) D 5 â# 8 C Taxi Ü#3 ˜# Rank D AB Il-Kastell ú Eating 12 Café Jubilee..............................................B4 æ Sights 13 Grapes Wine Bar......................................B5 1 Archaeology Museum ............................ B3 14 It-Tokk.......................................................C4 2 Banca Giuratale....................................... B4 15 Ta'Rikardu ................................................C2 3 Basilica of St George .............................. B5 4 Cathedral Museum ................................. C2 ý Entertainment 5 Cathedral of the Assumption ................ C2 16 Astra Theatre ...........................................C4 6 Folklore Museum .................................... C2 7 Gozo 360° ................................................ B3 þ Shopping 8 Heart of Gozo .......................................... B5 17 Organika ...................................................B5 9 Natural Science Museum ....................... B1 18 Pio's Antiques ..........................................A4 10 Old Prison ................................................ B2 11 Pjazza Indipendenza .............................. B4
118 Basilica of St George CHURCH VICTORIA’S MUSEUM (Map p117; %2155 6377; Pjazza San Ġorġ) The PASSES well-attended original parish church of Rabat dates from 1678, and the lavish inte- Museum aficionados can purchase a rior contains a fine altarpiece of St George ticket to two of Victoria’s museums and the Dragon by Mattia Preti. (€5/2.50 per adult/child, excluding Gozo & C o m i n o SVGiogczthotosr i a ( R abat ) the Cathedral Museum). For the really Heart of Gozo MUSEUM dedicated there’s the Citadel Day Ticket (€8/4 per adult/child), allowing entry to (Map p117; www.heartofgozo.org.mt; Triq il-Kari- all four. If you have a Malta Pass (mal- ta; donations welcome; h9am-5pm) This inno- tapass.com.mt), of course, all entry is vative small museum was founded by the covered; otherwise passes can be pur- Fondazzjoni Belt Victoria to exhibit treas- chased at each museum. ures belonging to the Basilica of St George as well as other artefacts, including coins and lamps from the Herod era in Israel and scrap silver amounting to the weight of lady’ carvings from Ġgantija Temples and a shekel. A column runs through all three Xagħra, that are around 3000 to 4000 years floors showing the island’s history from old. There are also Roman anchors, a 3rd- to prehistoric Ġgantija through to British rule. 5th-century skeleton that was found bur- There’s an audio room, where you can listen ied in an amphora, Bronze Age jugs dating to traditional local music. from 2400 to 1500 BC, and some fascinating Phoenician amulets in the form of the Eye of Gozo 360° AUDIOVISUAL Osiris – an ancient link to the symbols seen on Maltese fishing boats of today. (Map p117; %2155 9955; www.gozo360.com.mt; entrance on Telgħa Tal-Belt; adult/child €7/3; h10am-3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Gozo Old Prison HISTORIC BUILDING 360°, at the Citadel Cinema, is a 30-minute (Map p117; %2156 5988; Triq il-Kwartier; adult/ audiovisual show that gives a good, basic child €3/1.50, incl 2 museums €5/2.50; h9am- 5pm) The Old Prison served as a jail from the introduction to the island’s history and sights before veering off into tourist board– late 1500s to 1904, and proved particularly style fluff. Shows are every 30 minutes, and useful for locking up hot-tempered Knights until they cooled off. The cells here once held commentary is available in eight languages. Jean Parisot de la Valette for a few months 1 Pjazza Indipendenza for beating up a lay person. His punishment & Around included two years service in Tripoli before he later became Grand Master. Particularly fascinating is the historic graffiti etched into Pjazza Indipendenza PIAZZA the walls by the inmates, including crosses, (Map p117) Victoria’s main square hosts a daily market (6.30am to 2pm), which is ships, hands and the cross of the Knights. known throughout the island as It-Tokk (the Folklore Museum MUSEUM meeting place). The semicircular baroque building at the western end of the square is (Map p117; %2156 2034; Triq Bernardo de Opuo; the Banca Giuratale (Map p117; Pjazza Indip- adult/child €3/1.50, incl 2 museums €5/2.50; h9am-5pm) The Folklore Museum is a lovely endenza), built in 1733 to house the city coun- cil; today it contains government offices. maze of stairs, rooms and courtyards: the fine rambling old building itself, dating to 1500, houses a collection of domestic, trade Il-Borgo AREA and farming implements that give an insight The old town, known as Il-Borgo, is a maze of narrow, meandering alleys around Pjazza into rural life on Gozo. San Ġorġ. It’s a beguiling place to wander. Natural Science Museum MUSEUM Rundle Gardens GARDENS (Map p117; %2155 6153; Triq il-Kwartier; adult/ (Map p119; h6am-8pm Jun-Sep, 7am-6pm child €3/1.50, incl 2 museums €5/2.50; h9am- 5pm) This gracious old building houses a Oct-May) The Rundle Gardens, south of Triq ir-Repubblika, were laid out around 1914 by series of low-key exhibits explaining the geol- General Sir Leslie Rundle (Governor of Mal- ogy of the island and its water supply. There are some interesting fossils downstairs, in- ta, 1909–15), and are pleasant and shady for walking around. cluding huge megalodon shark teeth.
119 Victoria e# 0 200 m A 0 0.1 miles Żebbuġ B CD (3km)TriqTal Ghajn D D Marsalforn Triq il-KaritaTe lgħa Tal-Belt Triq il-Kapuƒƒini (3.5km) on Triq PutirjalTriq l-Imgħallem Dirjanu La nz Għarb Ninu Cremona 1 (3.5km) 1 D 6 D6TriqKerċemSant'Orsla 2 Gozo & C o m i n o VEGaioctztionogr i a ( R abat )Xagħra Sir L Camilleri #ÿ (2km) Karlu Galea Moú#ns Vella Triq L-Ewropa 4 ú# 5 Pjazza TTrirqSi#þ#.q9ChirGDToe-ħRrupn7aikepqjtný#erpienlu-gAbTrb#æċrliiiskq1qaĠofioPrTiġreiiqotTrSrBuiaqonPrFaĠgocuSrOKAePztChueelrjoieapknvnpnzapinaezptdetLrarioidenaaJ#þybgMF8reizzi Nadur Indipendenza (5km) (It-Tokk) Mġarr (6km) See Il-Kastell Map (p117) 66 D6TriqVajringa û# 6 D2 Il-Borgo 3 2 ÿ# #› Enrico Mi zzi D Qatet 33 SannatD Xewkija (2km) (1.5km) ABCD 5 Eating Victoria oTa’Rikardu GOZITAN € æ Sights (Map p117; %2155 5953; 4 Triq il-Fossos; mains 1 Rundle Gardens ....................................C2 €7.50-10.75; h10am-8pm) An institution in Vic- toria and the only place to eat in Il-Kastell, ÿ Sleeping Ta’Rikardu sells excellent local produce – hon- 2 Downtown Hotel ................................... D1 ey, cheese and wine (with particularly good 3 Mia Casa.................................................B2 rosé) – along with souvenirs and paintings. Take a seat and order a cheap, delicious plat- ú Eating ter, which includes cheese, bread, tomatoes, 4 Maldonado Bistro .................................A2 capers and olives. Vegie soup or homemade 5 Patrick's .................................................D2 ravioli is also available; wash it all down the owners’ Gozitan wine. û Drinking & Nightlife 6 Tapies Bar..............................................B3 Grapes Wine Bar GOZITAN € ý Entertainment (Map p117; %7947 3503; Pjazza San Ġorġ; mains 7 Aurora Opera House ............................C2 €6-15; h9am-10pm) For a memorable Gozitan experience, settle down in this piazza with þ Shopping views of the basilica, choose a good local or 8 Arkadia Supermarket ...........................D2 international wine or the local Lord Cham- 9 Bookworm .............................................C2 bray craft beer, and graze on a platter of regional cheese/sausage/seafood, ftira (tra- ditional Maltese bread), and rabbit or pizza. a couple of outside tables on the square. In the evening it becomes a popular wine bar Café Jubilee CAFE € and serves good local drops, and also offers (Map p117; %2155 8921; Pjazza Indipendenza; local dishes such as rabbit, as well as other mains €5.75-16.75; h8am-10.30pm; W) This snacks. cafe-bar has a nice atmosphere, with its It-Tokk GOZITAN €€ marble counter, brass rails, lots of dark wood and vintage ads on the walls, and has (Map p117; %2155 1213; Pjazza Indipendenza; mains around €20) It-Tokk is a cosy restaurant
120 7 Shopping with flagstone walls and an arched, bamboo- shaded 1st-floor terrace overlooking the Pio’s Antiques ANTIQUES square. Come here for traditional Maltese dishes such as rabbit stew and braġioli (a (Map p117; %9906 6101; Pjazza Savina; h8am- beef dish), though they also serve pasta, 12.30pm) An Aladdin’s cave of Gozitan and steaks and so on. Maltese bric-a-brac, including candlesticks and tradtional door knockers. Gozo & C o m i n o DSMorġiuantrkhrienrgn&GNoizgohtl i f e Maldonado Bistro BISTRO €€ Bookworm BOOKS (Map p119; %9901 9270; 18 Triq Mons; mains €8-20; h7pm-late Mon & Wed-Sun) This cellar (Map p119; %2155 6215; 105 Triq ir-Repubblika; h7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-1pm Sat) Well- bistro is a fun place for an aperitivo or din- stocked shop with a good range of fiction ner – intimate and welcoming – and popular with locals and tourists in the know for its and guidebooks, plus local and British newspapers. delicious Italian cooking, including hand- made pasta, and good accompanying wines. Arkadia Supermarket FOOD & DRINK (Map p119; Triq Fortunato Mizzi; h7am-8pm) Gozo’s best supermarket, with some Wait- Patrick’s MEDITERRANEAN €€€ (Map p119; %2156 6667; www.patrickstmun. com; Triq l-Ewropa; mains €16.90-32.50; h6.30- rose products. 10.30pm Mon-Sat Jul-Oct, 6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat, Organika FOOD noon-2.30pm Sun Nov-Jun; W) Patrick’s (named (Map p117; %2701 3548; 13 Pjazza San Ġorġ; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Locally after and run by the son of the restauran- grown organic produce. teurs at Tmun Mġarr; p121), is polished and professional, from the linen-covered tables to the extensive wine list and menu 88 Information of complex fusion dishes. Asian influences, New Zealand beef and fresh local fish come Aurora (Opera House, Triq ir-Repubblika; together wonderfully in a nautical yet ele- h7am-midnight; W) There is free wi-fi offered gant blue-and-white dining room. at the Aurora cafe in the Opera House. Bank of Valletta (102 Triq ir-Repubblika; 6 Drinking & Nightlife h 8.30am-1.30pm Mon-Thu, to 4.30pm Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) Tapies Bar BAR General Hospital (% 2156 1600; Triq l-Arċisqof Pietru Pace) (Map p119; Triq Enrico Mizzi; h5am-11pm) Gozo Police Headquarters (% 2156 2040; Tapies is an old-fashioned bar with outside Triq ir-Repubblika) Gozo’s main police station tables. It’s always busy from morning to is located near the corner of Triq ir-Repubblika night, with a sociable mix of Gozitans, expats and Triq Putirjal. and tourists enjoying the insomniac-friendly Post Office (Map p117; Triq ir-Repubblika; opening hours, laid-back always-the-same at- h 8.15am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.15am-12.30pm mosphere and cheap beer (€1.50). Sat) Tourist Information Office (Map p117; 3 Entertainment % 2291 5452; Tigrija Palazz, cnr Triq ir-Repub- blika & Triq Putirjal; h 9am-5.15pm Mon-Sat, Despite its diminutive size, Victoria has two 9am-12.15pm Sun & public holidays) A helpful theatres compared to Valletta’s one. office with maps and brochures. oAurora Opera House THEATRE (Map p119; %2156 2974; www.teatruaurora. com; Triq ir-Repubblika) The Aurora Opera House stages opera, ballet, comedy, drama, SOUTHERN GOZO cabaret, pantomime, celebrity concerts and Mġarr exhibitions. Mġarr is Gozo’s main harbour and the point Astra Theatre THEATRE of arrival for ferries from Malta. It’s home to a cluster of restaurants and is a fun and (Map p117; %2155 0985; www.lastella.com. scenic place to dine on fresh fish. There are mt; Triq ir-Repubblika) Astra Theatre is the also a few bars, including the characterful 19th-century home of Soċjetà Filarmonika Gleneagles. La Stella, and stages predominantly opera, music and ballet.
121 The hilltop above the town is capped by Trips depart from Mġarr Harbour, but trans- Gozo & C o m i n o SMioġguahtrthrse&rnA cGtoizvoi t i e s the ramparts of Fort Chambray, which was fers can be arranged. built by the Knights of St John in the early 18th century. It was originally intended to You can book trips through most travel supplant Victoria’s citadel as Gozo’s main agents in the resort towns on Gozo. fortified town, and the area within the walls was laid out with a grid of streets similar to 5 Eating & Drinking that of Valletta. But with the decline of the Order in the late 18th century, the plan came Mġarr has become something of a foodie to naught. Instead, the fort served as a gar- paradise in recent years, with some excellent rison and later as a mental hospital. Part of restaurants within a short walk of the ferry the complex has been converted into luxury terminal. apartments. Bugeja Fish Market MARKET € 1 Sights & Activities (h8.30am-12.30pm & 4.30-7pm Mon-Sat) Head to Bugeja, just outside Mġarr, to purchase Church of Our Lady of Lourdes CHURCH your fresh fish for a barbecue. It has a great (%2166 6537; Triq Lourdes) This 20th-century range of local fish and seafood, and attracts neo-Gothic church appears almost to hang queues of locals. over the village. Begun in 1924, a lack of funds meant that it was not completed until oTmun Mġarr MEDITERRANEAN €€ the 1970s. (%2156 6276; Triq Martino Garces; mains €11- 22; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon; v) Family-run Tmun Mġarr is considered to be Gozo’s best restaurant, with a menu Viewpoint VIEWPOINT rich in dishes like bouillabaisse and fresh- Triq iż-Żewwiega leads to a stunning view- from-the-sea fish. There are good vegetarian point just south of Qala. It’s worth the effort to get here – 1.8km uphill from the harbour; choices, too, and the desserts are delicious. Set behind the fishing boats at the water’s once here you can enjoy the magnificent edge, it has a laid-back feel and an outdoor panorama over Gozo and out to sea. terrace. Belvedere VIEWPOINT Sammy’s – Il-Kcina A right turn at the top of the harbour hill leads to a belvedere with a grand view over Tal-Barrakka SEAFOOD €€ (%9921 3801; Triq Manoel de Vilhena; mains €8- the harbour to Comino and northern Malta. 25; h5.30-11pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, 11.30am-11pm Bethlehem Village AREA Sun) In a great location by the harbour in a (Għajnsielem) On the right after the first lively strip of restaurants, Sammy’s is a pop- roundabout as you leave Mġarr is this life- size Bethlehem-style village, where 150 ular family-run restaurant with a crammed and atmospheric outdoor terrace; indoors is actors create a living nativity, which at- cosy in winter. It’s famous for its way with tracts thousands of people each year during the month of December. It’s a fun place to fresh fish and delicious fish soup. Service can be slow. explore even when it’s not in use. Gleneagles Bar PUB Boat Trips (%2155 6543; Triq ix-Xatt; h3pm-late Mon-Sat, You can arrange boats to Comino (around noon-late Sun) This is the social hub of the vil- €10; h10am-4pm) at stands along the kerb lage – if not the island – and a glorious place of the main road through town. For a small to head for a sundowner, with views over the supplement most offer a quick trip to view harbour. It fills up in the early evening with some of Comino’s caves. a lively mix of locals, fishermen, yachties and tourists. It’s named after the first ferry- Xlendi Pleasure Cruises BOAT TOUR service ship (1885). (%9911 1909; www.xlendicruises.com) This outfit offers boat trips around Gozo and/or Comi- no from April to October. A 4½-hour trip 88 Information taking in Gozo and Comino costs €25/15 per adult/child, while an 8½-hour trip is €35/18 Mġarr Harbour Info Booth (Ferry Terminal; (with a buffet lunch for either costing €8/5). h 9am-2pm) Helpful information office for when you arrive in Gozo. Private charters are €180 for three hours.
122 Gozo & C o m i n o ISMnoġfuaotrrhrmeairxtn-iXoGi noiz o Mġarr ix-Xini of St John the Baptist adorn the six side chapels. To the left of the altar is a museum The narrow, cliff-bound inlet of Mġarr ix- displaying baroque sculptures and other rel- Xini (Port of the Galleys) was once used by ics salvaged from the old church. The wood- the Knights of St John as their main harbour en statue of St John was fashioned in 1845 on Gozo. One of their watchtowers, Torri by Maltese sculptor Paul Azzopardi. A small ta’Mġarr ix-Xini, still guards the entrance. lift takes visitors up to the gallery surround- The Turkish admiral Dragut Reis also found ing the dome, for great panoramas. it handy, using it when he raided Gozo in 1551 and took most of the island’s population Ta’Ċenċ into slavery. A more recent invasion was that of a film crew, when Brad Pitt and Angelina The quiet village of Sannat, once famed for Jolie used this as the location to film By the its lace-making, lies 2km south of Victoria, Sea in 2014, building a hotel set on the cliffs and gives access to the Ta’Ċenċ plateau. and taking over the bay for five months. Signs from the village square point the way to Hotel Ta’Ċenċ (p144), one of Gozo’s fin- There’s a tiny shingle beach at the head est; its bar is a great place for a sundowner. of the inlet, and a paved area where tour- You can rent sunbeds or eat at its gorgeously ists and locals stake out their sunbathing set Il-Kantra Lido Bar & Restaurant (Hotel territories. It’s a gorgeous place to swim and Ta’Ċenċ; mains €20; h10am-6pm), with incred- snorkel, and best on weekdays, when less ible views over towards the inlet of Mġarr people descend here. It’s home to a classic ix-Xini. The track to the left of the entrance Gozo restaurant, the marvellous Rew Rew to the walled hotel grounds leads to the high (mains €20; h11am-5pm Mar-Nov). This simple- plateau of Ta’Ċenċ – the views north to Vic- looking place has a few chairs and tables toria, Xewkija and Xagħra are good, espe- next to a little cabin on the beach, and cially towards sunset. Wander off to the left serves up fresh, delicious seafood to hungry of the track, near the edge of the limestone punters. It was closed for a season while crag, and you will find a prehistoric dolmen Brangelina filmed here, and appears as an – a large slab propped up on three smaller old-fashioned grocery in their film. It’s the stones like a table. Keep your eyes peeled – perfect place for a long, lazy lunch looking the dolmen is not signposted and is a little out to sea. Book ahead. tricky to spot. Mġarr ix-Xini is accessed via a narrow The best walking is off to the right, along winding road. It’s well signposted, and per- the top of the huge Ta’Ċenċ sea cliffs. These fectly accessible in a normal car. However, spectacular limestone crags, more than the loveliest way is to arrive by boat; charter 130m high, were once the breeding ground one via your hotel, Xlendi or Mġarr. of the Maltese peregrine falcon. Near the cliff top you can see traces of prehistoric Xewkija cart ruts, origins unknown. POP 3300 Bus 305 runs between Victoria and Ta’Ċenċ (10 minutes). The village of Xewkija – and most of south- ern Gozo – is dominated by the vast dome Xlendi of the Parish Church of St John the Baptist, better known as the Rotunda (%2155 6793; The sometime fishing village of Xlendi h6am-noon & 3-8pm). Work on the church is now a small, popular resort town. The began in 1951 and was completed in 1971; cluster of hotels are low-rise and unobtru- it was built mainly with the volunteer la- sive, and it’s a beautiful bay. It’s a favourite bour of parishioners and paid for by local place for weekending Maltese and tourists donations. The 74m-high dome is the third- to chill out by the sea, with good swimming, largest in the world. snorkelling and diving, and plenty of rocks for sunbathing. In the 19th century, this The church was built around the old was known as ‘women’s harbour’, as it was 17th-century church, which was too small reserved for women-only bathing. for the community’s needs. There’s no such risk with the rotunda, which can seat There’s an ATM by the bus stop and car around three times the village’s population. park, a block back from the waterfront. The interior is plain, but impresses through sheer size. Paintings of scenes from the life
123 CLIMBING GOZO Gozo & C o m i n o SX iolgeuhnttdhsie&rnA cGtoizvoi t i e s The British Army first pursued climbing on Gozo and Comino in the 1950s and ’60s, even producing a guidebook of the islands’ routes. After independence, it was subsequently forgotten as a local sport, but in recent years has been rediscovered. There are now over 300 climbs in 12 locations across the island in amazingly dramatic yet easy to approach locations. Dwejra has good-quality rock and some incredible climbs, although climbers have to be aware of not disturbing nesting sea birds in spring. Another important area is between Xlendi and Munxar, with 21 bolted new routes in a coastal gorge. You can learn to climb here, or there are multiple climbs at grades 7 to 8 for experts looking for a chal- lenge. For more information see Gozo Climbing (www.gozo-climbing.com). 1 Sights & Activities trip €15 per person), hour-long trips along the coast to Dwejra (adult/child €15/7), and At the head of the bay, steps lead over the four-hour and longer trips to Comino and cliff above the little fishing-boat harbour to the Blue Lagoon (€19.50/9.75; an extra €8/4 a tiny cove in the rocks where you can swim. for buffet lunch). This was apparently once reserved for the local nuns. Alternatively, you can keep walk- 5 Eating ing up the hillside above and then hike over to Wardija Point and Dwejra Bay. On the Ta’Nona MEDITERRANEAN € south side of Xlendi Bay, a footpath winds (mains €5.80-14.50, 2-course set menu €14.50; around to the 17th-century watchtower, Tor- hnoon-midnight) With tables so near the sea ri ta’Xlendi, on Ras il-Bajjada. Below here you may get splashed, this is a nice simple you can scramble down to some salt pans place to have a beer and pizza or ftira, and it with fantastic, windswept views. From here offers more elaborate dishes as well. you can hike east to the Sanap cliffs, and on towards Ta’Ċenċ. oBoat House MEDITERRANEAN €€ (%2156 9153; mains €11.50-27; hnoon-10.30pm) Watersports This is a highly rated restaurant where you The local dive operators can help you ex- can eat fresh fish with the sea almost lap- plore the excellent nearby dive sites, offer- ping at your toes – there’s a seafront, tented ing ‘taster’ dives, beginners’ courses and terrace. Seafood is the obvious choice, prices excursions for those who already know what are reasonable and it’s a great choice for they’re doing. families. Moby Dives DIVING Ta’ Karolina MEDITERRANEAN €€ (%2155 9675; Triq Marina; mains €5-23; h12.30- (%2156 4429; www.mobydives.net; Triq il-Gostra) 3pm & 6.30pm-late Tue-Sun Feb-Dec) This PADI five-star diving school. long-running seafront restaurant is a local St Andrews Divers Cove DIVING favourite. It’s named after the nun Karolina (%2155 1301; www.gozodive.com; Triq San Ximun) Cauchi, who raised money to have the steps Long-standing, recommended PADI diving centre. cut into the cliffs at Xlendi in the 19th cen- tury. These days it features a covered ter- race, and a great range of soups, pasta and Xlendi Pleasure Cruises BOAT TOUR Gozitan specialities. (%9911 1909; www.xlendicruises.com) Waterside Xlendi Pleasure Cruises offers motorboats, canoes and paddleboats for hire, as well as Iċ-Ċima Restaurant GOZITAN, ITALIAN €€ (%2155 8407; Triq San Xmun; mains €12.25- fishing trips (€45 per person), snorkelling 25; hnoon-3pm & 6.30pm-late Wed-Mon) This and cave tours. The company also has a menu of cruises leaving from Mġarr Har- friendly restaurant is situated a short walk uphill from the village and has an outstand- bour and will provide transfers. ing view over the bay and the coastal cliffs Xlendi Water Sports WATERSPORTS from its rooftop. It’s an excellent choice, with the emphasis on seafood, plus dishes (%9942 7917; www.xlendicruises.com) Xlendi of- like coniglio alla nonna (rabbit grandma’s fers self-drive boats, jet skis (from €30 per 15 minutes), guided kayak tours (1½-hour way), plus pizzas.
124 Built in a Romanesque style, with an Ital- ianate campanile, it has a tranquil interior 6 Drinking & Nightlife of pale golden stone. Part of the original chapel, with Carmela Grima’s tomb, is in- La Grotta CLUB corporated behind the altar. The rooms to either side of the altar are filled with votive (www.lagrottaleisure.com; Triq ix-Xlendi; admission offerings, including children’s clothes, hoists varies; h10pm-dawn Fri & Sat May-Oct) On the and plaster casts. The basilica’s name comes road to Victoria about 600m east of Xlendi, from Filippino Gauci, who used to tend La Grotta has a unique setting with amazing the old church – Pinu is the Malti dimin- views. It’s housed in a limestone cave in the utive for Filippino. Visitors should dress Gozo & C o m i n o NDG rħoiarnrtkbhi en&rgnA&rGoNouizgnohdtl i f e cliffs above the valley, with two large dance appropriately. areas (indoors and out), and hosts big-party nights, DJs and live music (admission costs It’s well worth walking up the track lead- vary). ing to the top of the hill of Ta’Għammar opposite the church, which is punctuated by Ku Club CLUB marble statues marking the Stations of the Cross. (Triq Mro Giuseppe Giardini Vella; h10pm-late Nov- Apr) Gozo’s biggest club hauls in lots of inter- national names in the winter months, and is the place to go to worship before godlike DJs, with hands-in-the-air trance and house. Karmni Grima Museum MUSEUM 88 Getting There & Away (%2155 6187; admission €3; h9am-4pm) In the former house of Carmela Grima, whose Buses 330 (13 minutes) and 306 (25 minutes) vision gave rise to the Ta’Pinu shrine, there’s run between Xlendi and Victoria. By car, follow a small museum that gives an insight into signs from the roundabout at the southern end rural 19th-century life. of Triq Putirjal in Victoria. Or it’s a 3km walk from Victoria bus station. Għarb Folklore Museum MUSEUM (%2156 1929; Triq il-Knisja; adult/child €5/ free; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) This 18th-century house, once the home of Frenc NORTHERN GOZO Mercieca, a local wise man who apparently was able to cure ailments, has 28 rooms crammed with a fascinating, lovely jumble Għarb & Around of folk artefacts. The exhibits, assembled by the owner over the past 20 years, include a POP 1540 child’s hearse, farming implements, fishing gear and jam-making equipment. The village of Għarb (pronounced aarb, meaning ‘west’) in the northwest of Gozo Church of the Visitation CHURCH has one of the most beautiful churches on the Maltese Islands. Għarb’s baroque Church of the Visitation 1 Sights was built between 1699 and 1729, with an elegant curved facade and twin bell towers. Basilica of Ta’Pinu CHURCH Three female figures adorn the front: Faith, (%2155 6187; www.tapinu.org; Triq ta’Pinu; h6.45am- above the door; Hope, with her anchor, to 7pm Mon-Sat, 5.45am-12.15pm & 1.30-7pm Sun) The Basilica of Ta’Pinu, accessible via a the right; and Charity. Inside, there is an altarpiece, The Visitation of Our Lady to St short, scenic walk from Għarb, is an ex- Elizabeth, which was gifted to the church traordinary sight – a huge, lone church on a Gozitan hillock, towering over the country- by Grand Master de Vilhena. side. Malta’s national shrine to the Virgin Chapel of San Dimitri CHURCH Mary is an important centre of pilgrimage. It was built in the 1920s on the site of a A drive or pleasant walk of about 30 minutes (just over 2km) from Għarb leads to the tiny chapel where a local woman, Carmela Gri- Chapel of San Dimitri (signposted on the ma, claimed to have heard the Virgin speak to her in 1883. road to the left of the church). This small, square church with its baroque cupola dates Thereafter, numerous miracles were at- from the 15th century, though it was rebuilt tributed to the intercession of Our Lady of Pinu, and it was decided to replace the old in the 1730s. It stands in splendid isolation amid terraced fields. You can continue the church with a grand new one. walk down to the coast, and return via the Basilica of Ta’Pinu.
125 FUNGUS ROCK Gozo & C o m i n o SNEaaotnritnLhgaewrrne nGzo z o Fungus Rock is known in Malti as ‘Il-Ġebla tal-Ġeneral’ (the General’s Rock). Both its names derive from the fact that the Knights of St John used to collect a rare plant from the rock’s summit. The plant (Cynomorium coccineus) is dark brown and club-shaped, and grows to about 18cm in height. It is parasitic and has no green leaves, which is why it was called a fungus or, in Malti, ‘għerq tal-Ġeneral’ (the General’s root). It’s native to North Africa, and Fungus Rock is the only place in Europe where it’s found. During the time of the Knights, extracts from the plant were believed to have powerful pharmaceutical qualities, and were said to stem bleeding and prevent infection when used to dress wounds. The miracle plant was also said to cure dysentery and ulcers, and was used to treat apoplexy and venereal diseases. It was long known to the Arabs as ‘the treasure among drugs’, and when a general of the Knights of St John discovered it growing on a rock on Gozo, he knew he had struck gold. A rope was strung between the mainland and the rock, and harvesters were shuttled back and forth in a tiny, one-man cable car. In 1637 the Knights built the fortress of Dwejra (Qawra) Tower (p126) from which to guard the precious resource, and they sheared the side of the rock to make it impossible to climb. As well as being much in demand in the Knights’ hospitals, it was sold at a high price to the various courts of Europe. However, pharmacologists have since found it doesn’t affect health in the ways it was thought, though it has been shown to lower blood pressure. 5 Eating 5 Eating Jeffrey’s Restaurant GOZITAN €€ Tatita’s MEDITERRANEAN €€ (%2156 6482; Pjazza San Lawrenz; mains €9- (%2156 1006; 10 Triq il-Għarb; mains €9-16; h6- 34; h12.30-3pm & 7-10.30pm Apr-Oct) Tatita’s 10.30pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct) Where the road to Għarb from Victoria forks (400m after the occupies what was once San Lawrenz po- lice station; when it’s warm you can dine turning to Ta’Pinu) you’ll find Jeffrey’s. Set alfresco on the postcard-perfect square. It’s in a converted farmhouse with a rustic inte- rior, Jeffrey’s is an intimate place with just a very welcoming – and family friendly, too, despite the formal look and snow-white few tables, offering homestyle cooking that tablecloths. The kitchen prepares local makes good use of local produce. Here you can sample Gozitan specialities including treats like grilled quail with Calvados and mushroom sauce; and calamari and king the highly rated rabbit in wine and garlic. prawns. 88 Getting There & Away 88 Getting There & Away Bus 312 connects Għarb with San Lawrenz (six Bus 312 connects San Lawrenz with Għarb (six minutes) and Victoria (16 minutes, hourly), while minutes, hourly) and Victoria (15 minutes). the 308 runs between Victoria and Ta’Pinu (10 minutes, hourly). San Lawrenz Dwejra POP 750 Geology and the sea have conspired to pro- duce some of Gozo’s most spectacular coast- The charming village of San Lawrenz is al scenery at Dwejra on the west coast. Two where novelist Nicholas Monsarrat (1910– vast, underground caverns in the limestone 79) lived and worked for four years in the have collapsed to create two circular de- early 1970s. His love for the Maltese Islands pressions now occupied by Dwejra Bay and is reflected in his novel The Kappillan of the Inland Sea. If this otherworldly scenery Malta. makes Game of Thrones spring to mind, you’d be right: the Azure Window was the Between San Lawrenz and Santa Luċija is backdrop for the Dothraki wedding in the the Ta’Dbieġi Crafts Village (h10am-4pm), TV show’s first season. selling handicrafts, lace, glass and pottery. You can often see artisans at work here, and it’s a rewarding place to visit.
126 1 Sights & Activities Inland Sea LAGOON Dwejra Bay & Dwejra Point AREA The Inland Sea is a cliff-bound lagoon con- nected to the open sea by a tunnel that runs The collapsed cavern of Dwejra Bay has been for 100m through the headland of Dwejra invaded by the sea, and is guarded by the Point. The tunnel is big enough for small brooding bulk of Fungus Rock. A path be- boats to sail through in calm weather, and low Dwejra (Qawra) Tower leads to a flight the Inland Sea has been used as a fisher- of stairs cut into the rock, leading down to a men’s haven for centuries. Today, fishermen Gozo & C o m i n o SNMioagrhsttahslef&ronArcGntoizvoi t i e s little slipway on the edge of the bay. There is supplement their income by taking tour- good swimming and sunbathing here, away ists on boat trips (per person 15 minutes €4) from the crowds of day trippers who throng through the tunnel. the rocks around the Azure Window. For even more peace you can hike right Dwejra (Qawra) Tower CASTLE around to the cliff top on the far side of the (dinlarthelwa.org; adult/child €2/free; h9am-3pm bay, for a view encompassing Fungus Rock Mon-Sat, 10.30am-3pm Sun, or when flag is flying) and Dwejra Point and, between them, Croc- Visit this restored tower for breathtaking odile Rock (seen from near Dwejra Tower it views. looks like a crocodile’s head). The broad horizontal shelf of rock to the Chapel of St Anne CHURCH south of Dwejra Point has been eroded along the geological boundary between the glo- Between the Inland Sea and the Azure Win- bigerina limestone and the lower coralline dow is the little Chapel of St Anne, built in 1963 on the site of a much older church. limestone – the boundary is marked by a 88 Getting There & Away layer of many thousands of fossilised scallop shells and sand dollars (a kind of flattened, Bus 311 runs between Victoria and Dwejra (16 disc-shaped sea urchin). minutes, hourly). Alternatively, catch bus 312 to San Lawrenz (10 minutes) and walk the 1.5km Blue Hole & the Azure Window DIVE SITE down to the bay. The Azure Window, a huge natural arch in the sea cliffs, is a breathtaking Gozitan view. In the rocks in front of it is another geological freak called the Blue Hole – a ver- Marsalforn tical chimney in the limestone, about 10m in diameter and 25m deep, that connects Former fishing village Marsalforn (the name with the open sea through an underwater is possibly derived from the Arabic for ‘bay arch about 8m down. Scenes from Game of of ships’) is Gozo’s main holiday resort. It’s Thrones were filmed here in 2011, when the small-scale and has a pleasant feel; the local production company ran into trouble promenade, lined by restaurants, is backed for covering the area in construction sand. by developments of low-rise hotels and apartments. Understandably, it’s a very popular dive site and the snorkelling is excellent, too. At the head of Marsalforn’s bay is a tiny Moby Dives (p123) and St Andrews Divers scrap of sand, but better swimming and sun- Cove (p123), both located in Xlendi, are bathing can be found on the rocks out to the available for lessons and equipment hire. west. You could also hike eastward over the hill a couple of kilometres to Calypso’s Cave (p130) and Ramla Bay (p132). SALT PANS The salt pans set just outside Marsalforn are the island’s most spectacular system. The northern coast of Gozo was particularly suited to salt production, as its area of flat limestone could be cut into by hand. Seawater ran into the shallow basins and the wind and sun did the rest; the salt pans on Gozo apparently date from Roman times. Small caverns were cut into the rock to store the salt. The Knights were in charge of salt har- vesting and fined anyone who produced salt without permission. Nowdays the salt is still harvested between May and September, but only for local use. The sea and wind can be wild here, as they hammer the surrounding cliffs into sculptural shapes.
127 Marsalforn e# 0 200 m A 0 0.1 miles Qbajjar Bay (500m); B C D Xwieni Bay (800m); D Salt Pans (1.2km); #ú 9 Wied il-Għasri (3km) Triq Għar 1 Triq Santa Marija 1 MarBsaaylforn Gozo & C o m i n o NMS ioagrhsttahslef&ronArcGntoizvoi t i e s Tri1q#pil-Qolla 2 5 ÿ# 2 #p 2 Ta' Barda #ûTriq #ú Forn 10 il-Port #p 8 6Triq il-Qbajjar 3 Tri q ÿ# 6 Dÿ# 7 il-Munġbell #p4 Triq ix-Xagħra id-Duluri Triq il-Wied F Debono DTriq ir-Rabat Christ Statue (700m); Restaurant Ta'Frenċ (1.5km); 6Victoria (3.5km) 33 .# Xagħra (2.5km); Calypso's Cave (3km); Ramla Bay (3km) ABCD 1 Sights & Activities Marsalforn oWied il-Għasri BEACH Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 1 Atlantis ...................................................A2 A 5km hike west along the coast from Mar- 2 Bubbles ..................................................B2 salforn is the narrow, cliff-bound inlet of 3 Calypso ..................................................C2 Wied il-Għasri. Here a staircase cut into the 4 Nautic Team ..........................................B3 rock leads down to a tiny shingle beach at the head of the inlet. It’s a gorgeously pic- ÿ Sleeping turesque place and there is good swimming 5 Calypso Hotel ........................................C2 and snorkelling when the sea is calm, but 6 Lantern Guesthouse.............................B3 it’s best avoided in rough weather when the 7 Maria-Giovanna Guesthouse ..............B3 waves come crashing up the narrow defile. You can also drive or walk to Wied ú Eating il-Għasri from the village of Għasri, about 8 La Trattoria ............................................C2 2km south. If you’re coming from Marsal- 9 Otters Bistro .......................................... B1 forn, there is a signposted turn-off about 300m after the coast road heads inland, û Drinking & Nightlife where a rough track drops down to the right 10 Piutrentanove .......................................B2 and leads to a rocky parking area; it’s acces- sible in a regular car. There’s usually a small stall selling salt from the pans, which are owned by three families oBeaches & Salt Pans AREA and still worked in summer. Walk or drive west from town along the promenade and you’ll reach the tiny sand Christ Statue STATUE beaches at Qbajjar Bay, backed by buildings, As you enter Marsalforn from Victoria, you’ll and the more scenic Xwieni Bay, separated see the figure of Christ on a hill. The statue by a headland with a small fort. Beyond was erected in the 1970s, replacing earlier Xwieni, the road runs along a rocky shore statues and a wooden cross from around that has been carved into a patchwork of salt the 1900s; the 96m-high hill is known as pans, a wild and extraordinary landscape. Tas-Salvatur (the Redeemer).
128 dishes, created from fresh local ingredients. There’s also an extensive, award-winning 5 Eating & Drinking wine list. The majority of restaurants in Marsalforn Piutrentanove WINE BAR have reduced hours in winter – call ahead to check they are open before setting off. Otters Bistro GOZITAN, ITALIAN €€ (65 Triq il-Port; h4pm-3am; W) This small lounge bar on the waterfront has a sleek (%2156 2473; Triq Santa Marija; mains €9-20; interior and a couple of outside tables, and Gozo & C o m i n o ENXaaotgriħtnhrgae&rnD rGionzkoi ng h11.30am-10.30pm Fri-Wed, to 5.30pm Thu) Waterfront Otters has a glorious, shady, out- is a lively place to be in the summer months. It also serves decent pizzas. door terrace overlooking the bay. The menu has some great Gozitan choices, including braised lamb shank with fig and orange 88 Information sauce, or spaghetti Gozitana (tossed with Maltese sausage, olives, capers, tomatoes Bank of Valletta (Triq il-Port; h 8.30am-2pm and chilli). Mon-Thu, to 3.30pm Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) You can change money at the Bank of Valletta on the promenade, which has an ATM. Arzella MEDITERRANEAN €€ 88 Getting There & Away (Triq Għar Qawqla; mains €9-22; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct, Fri-Sun Nov-Mar) Bus 310 runs between Marsalforn and Victoria Set high up to the east of the bay, family-run (17 minutes, hourly). Bus 322 travels to/from Arzella has a covered terrace with great Mġarr (38 minutes, every 1½ hours) via Ramla views out to sea, and buzzes with locals Bay (20 minutes) and Xagħra (14 minutes). who come for its fresh fish and convivial Hire scooters or bikes from On 2 Wheels Gozo atmosphere. (% 2156 1503; www.on2wheelsgozo.com; Triq Rabat). La Trattoria MEDITERRANEAN €€ (%2155 9173; Triq il-Port; mains €8-24; h11am- 10.30pm Wed-Mon) This welcoming family-run place has a small, arched interior and a Xagħra cute little wooden terrace overlooking the town’s tiny beach, The house speciality is POP 4885 lampuka en paupiette (rolled fillets of lam- puka – dolphin fish – stuffed with prawns The pretty village of Xagħra (shaa-ra), one in a cream sauce), but the menu extends to of Gozo’s largest, spreads across the flat pasta, risotto and pork and beef dishes. summit of the hill east of Victoria. The 19th-century Church of Our Lady of Victo- Restaurant Ta’Frenċ MEDITERRANEAN €€ ry looks down benignly on the tree-lined (%2155 3888; www.tafrencrestaurant.com; Triq Pjazza Vittorja, where old men sit and chat ir-Rabat; mains €8.50-16.50, Maltese menu €35; in the shade of the oleanders – there’s always something gossip-worthy going on in the vil- lage square. h12.30-3pm & 7pm-late Wed-Mon; v) About 1 Sights & Activities 1.5km south of Marsalforn on the road to Victoria, this restaurant is in a beautiful oĠgantija Temples ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE setting (a 200-year-old converted farmhouse surrounded by garden) and has an impres- (%2155 3194; access from Triq l-Imqades; adult/ sive menu of French, Italian and Maltese child €9/5 incl admission to Ta’Kola Windmill; h9am-5pm) Perched on the crest of the hill MARSALFORN DIVING to the south of Xagħra, the awe-inspiring A number of Marsalforn dive operators megalithic Ġgantija Temples command can help you explore Gozo’s great dive soaring views over most of southern Gozo. sites, including: As the name implies (ġgantija – dje-gant- ¨¨Atlantis (p23) ee-ya – means ‘giantess’), these are the larg- ¨¨Calypso (p23) est of the megalithic temples found on the ¨¨Nautic Team (p175) Maltese Islands – the walls stand over 6m ¨¨Bubbles (% 2702 8299; www.diving- high, and the two temples together span gozo.com; 17 Triq il-Forn) over 40m. The site has a wonderful new visitors centre, with displays putting the temples into context and showcasing many of the
129 Xagħra e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles ABCD Marsalforn (2.5km)Triq MarsalfornD Calypso's D Cave (1.5km) 3 D1 â# 1 Triq Jannar Ramla Bay in u Gozo & C o m i n o NSX iaoggrhħtthrsae&rnA cGtoizvoi t i e s(2.5km) Ta' Bullara 2 #æ Għar ta 'N Tò#riq it-Tiġrija Dun Church of G. Triq ParisotPreċa #æl-Għar Our Lady TriqTa' Stellini 5 Ġorġ ta'Xerri 8 of Victory Diacono ÿ# 7 Triq Ġn ien Imrik Arc 6 9 ú# Ü# Mitħna Grech TTrirqiØ#qil-isK-nSispjiaera ú# Pjazza Triq 2 Vittorja 4 Ġużeppi 2 Triq il-Bambina â# na Bayer ô# Otto il-MitħM Farruġia John l-Imqades D Triq it-28 ta'April 1688 DVjal it-18 ta'Settembru Victoria (2km) Triq Tal- IĠdg-aDntaijħlaa 3 3 Ġgantija Ġgantija A Temples Temples 666Victoria (3km); .# # .# Nadur (3.5km) Mġarr (4km) B Entrance ä# 1 CD extraordinary carvings discovered here, in- Xagħra cluding the famous ‘fat ladies’. æ Top Sights Along with Ta’Ħaġrat and Skorba in 1 Ġgantija Temples ..................................D3 Malta (p79), the Ġgantija Temples are thought to be Malta’s oldest, dating from æ Sights the period 3600 BC to 3000 BC. Both tem- 2 Ninu's Cave............................................B2 ples face towards the southeast, and both 3 Pomskizillious Museum of Toys ........ D1 have five semicircular niches within. The 4 Ta'Kola Windmill ...................................C2 south temple (on the left) is the older, and 5 Xerri's Grotto.........................................A2 is entered across a huge threshold slab with four holes at each side, thought to be for Ø Activities, Courses & Tours libations. The first niche on the right con- 6 Lino's Stables ........................................B2 tains an altar with some spiral decoration – there was once a pillar here with a snake ÿ Sleeping carved on it, but the pillar now lives in Vic- 7 Xagħra Lodge ........................................D2 toria’s Archaeology Museum (p116). The left-hand niche in the inner chamber has a ú Eating well-preserved trilithon altar; on the right 8 D-Venue .................................................B2 is a circular hearth stone and a bench altar. 9 Oleander.................................................B2 The outer wall of the later north temple Xerri’s Grotto & Ninu’s Cave CAVE complex is particularly impressive in scale. The largest of the megaliths measures 6m by In the backstreets to the north of the vil- 4m and weighs around 57 tonnes, and the lage square lie Xerri’s Grotto (%2156 0572; wall may originally have stood up to 16m tall l’Għar ta’Xerri; adult/child €2.50/1; h9.30am-4pm – it’s incredible to contemplate how these Sep-May, to 6pm Jun-Aug) and Ninu’s Cave huge stones were put in place. The exterior (Triq Jannar; donations appreciated; h9.30am- walls were built of harder-wearing coralline 6pm). These fun underground caverns, limestone, while the interiors were built of complete with stalactites and stalagmites, the lighter globigerina limestone – brought are unusual in that they are both entered here from around a kilometre away. through private houses. Having discovered the caves beneath their homes, the owners
130 loved Oleander, located on the pretty vil- decided to cash in on the tourist potential. lage square with tables outside, has a menu Xerri’s Grotto was discovered in 1923, and specialising in Maltese cuisine, with dishes Ninu’s in 1888. They’re both fascinating and including rabbit cooked in various ways, incongruous. homemade ravioli with Gozitan cheese, and fresh fish of the day. Pomskizillious Museum of Toys MUSEUM Gozo & C o m i n o NEaaotdriutnrhge rn G o z o (%2156 2489; www.themuseumoftoys.com; Triq D-Venue MEDITERRANEAN €€ Ġnien Xibla; adult/child €2.80/1.50; h10.30am- (%7955 7230; www.dvenuerestaurant.com; Pjaz- 1pm Thu-Sat Apr & Nov, 10.30am-1pm Mon-Sat za Vittorja; mains €8-20; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm May-Oct, 10.30am-1pm Sat Dec, Feb & Mar) This Tue-Sun) D-Venue has blonde-stone arches small labour of love has an impressive array downstairs, and a great glass-covered ter- of 19th-century and 1930s doll’s houses, toy race on the 1st floor. Food is equally stylish, soldiers and spooky china dolls, mostly in with choices like spaghetti with prawns and glass cases. There’s a display case devoted to rocket, calamari and rabbit. nonsense poet Edward Lear, who coined the word ‘pomskizillious’ to describe Gozitan 88 Getting There & Away scenery. Bus 307 runs between Victoria and Xagħra (35 Ta’Kola Windmill HISTORIC BUILDING minutes, hourly). Bus 322 connects the town with Marsalforn (13 minutes, every 1½ hours), (%2156 1071; Triq il-Bambina; adult/child €9/5 incl Ramla Bay (10 minutes) and Mġarr (25 minutes). admission to Ġgantija Temples; h9am-5pm) Built in 1725 at the instigation of the Knights, who built many such windmills to encourage the production of flour (this is one of the few left standing), Ta’Kola now houses a cute Nadur museum of country life, with displays of tools and living quarters. Best, though, is the POP 3970 climb up the narrow stairs to see the original milling gear, complete with huge millstones. Nadur is Gozo’s ‘second city’, spreading along a high ridge to the east of Victoria. In Malti, Calypso’s Cave CAVE Nadur means ‘lookout’, and a 17th-century watchtower overlooks the Comino sea lanes Calypso’s Cave overlooks the sandy beach of from the western end of the ridge. There’s a Ramla Bay (p132) – it’s a 30-minute walk large market every Wednesday from around from the village square. The cave itself is 7am to 11am near the church. hardly worth the hike – it’s just a hollow un- 1 Sights der an overhang at the top of the cliff – but the views are worthwhile. Church of Sts Peter & Paul CHURCH On a calm day you can see the remains (Pjazza San Pietru u San Pawl) Nadur’s ornate Church of Sts Peter and Paul was built in the of an artificial reef extending into the sea. late 18th century – the entrance is framed This was part of the defences built by the Knights of St John to prevent attackers land- by white statues of the two saints, giving the church its local nickname of iż-Żewġ (the ing on the beach. In theory, the enemy ships pair). The interior is richly decorated with would run aground on the reef, where they would be attacked using primitive mortar- marble sculptures, and the vault is covered with 150 paintings. like weapons. Kelinu Grima Maritime Museum MUSEUM Lino’s Stables HORSE RIDING (%21565226; Triqil-Kappillan; adult/child€2.50/1.25; h9am-4.45pm Mon-Sat) This charming muse- (%2156 2477; www.linostables.com; 16 Triq is-Spi- um contains fascinating ship models, relics era) These stables offer one-/two-hour horse and maritime memorabilia, collected over 65 rides to Marsalforn for €15/30 for both be- years. ginners and more experienced riders. Chil- dren over 10 may ride their own horses, but 5 Eating younger children ride with their accompa- nying adult or in a gig. Book in advance. Nadur is famous for its delicious ftira and pizza, sold at the two fantastic bakeries in 5 Eating town. Meals are sold as takeaways, so it’s best to call around 30 minutes ahead to Oleander GOZITAN €€ order. (%2155 7230; Pjazza Vittorja; mains €7.50-20; h9am-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun) The much-
131 Wied il- Xwieni Bay Għasri #9 PSaanlst #7 MEDITERRANEAN #Ù#6 Qbajjar Bay #\\ ÉMBaayrsalfornSEA San ##\\8 Qbajjar É É #æ ##\\5 Marsalforn Christ Dimitri É Żebbuġ Point É É Gozo & C o m i n o NEaaotdriutnrhge rn G o z oTa'Għammar RBamayla Għarb É#\\ \\# É#Ü#10 Statue Calypso's #æ4 #Ù#3 É Cave ·/ ·/#11 Dwejra ÉBasilica \\# Gozo É of Ta'Pinu Għasri 'P€oint 1 10 #12 Dwejra /·R Ta'Dbieġi Xagħra #\\ 3 ·/15 Dwejra R ^# e ·/4 ä#Ġgantija Bay # Temples Għajn Abdul Victoria (Rabat) Wardija Kerċem#\\ #2\\# Nadur R Xewkija ·/2 Wardija ·/Xlendi 10 /·\\# 1 Point Xlendi Bay \\# &~Mġarr #\\ Munxar Sannat Għajnsielem #\\ #\\#1 Mġarr \\# \\# Harbour Ta'Ċenċ Tafal Cliffs MEDITERRANEAN SEA e#0 2 km 0 1 miles 22Driving Tour into Triq Tal-Masri, which will lead you down Northern Gozo to Gozo’s largest (yet still low-key) resort, START MĠARR END DWEJRA 5Marsalforn. Drive along the seafront LENGTH 20KM; 1½ HOURS and then take the coastal road. This will lead This drive takes in some of Gozo’s loveliest you to 6Xwieni Bay, which is overlooked scenery. Begin at the port of 1Mġarr, by the fabulously wild coast, where 7salt then take Triq Sant Antnin uphill towards pans are scooped out from the cliffs, and still in use. From here, take the road inland 2Nadur, perched on a hilltop and with to the village of 8Żebbuġ (the name great views from its modified watchtower. From Nadur, take the road through lovely means ‘olives’), which is famous for the onyx countryside towards 3Ramla Bay. When found locally (check out the decoration of you reach the bay, stop for a look and per- the Parish church) and for lace-making. haps a paddle, then on leaving take the first right-hand turn. You’ll drive through a land- Next drive around to visit the breathtaking scape of terraced fields and copper-coloured walls. On reaching the next junction, if you gorge and bay of 9Wied Il-Għasri. Head take the right-hand fork, you can drive back to Għasri village and take Triq il Fanal round to 4Calypso’s Cave for a great towards the dramatically isolated pilgrimage view over the bay. Next, double back the way you came, taking the second right turn aBasilica of Ta’Pinu. From here, take the road towards the pretty village of bSan Lawrenz before finishing your drive at cDwejra, an area featuring some of Gozo’s most stunning coastal formations.
132 Mekrens Bakery PIZZA, BAKERY € handful of cars at the beginning of the very (%2155 2342; Triq Hanaq; pizza from €4; narrow track above the bay. It’s a steep walk h4.30am-8pm) This is a great traditional down to it, but you can take a jeep down or bakery, serving up ftira and delicious pizza up (€2.50 per person). with all sorts of toppings. It’s a lovely place to take a picnic lunch Maxokk Bakery PIZZA, BAKERY € and a good book, and perhaps a mask and (%2155 0014; maxokkbakery.com; Triq San Ġak- fins for snorkelling – the water is quite shal- Gozo & C o m i n o RCG aoe tmmtli inanogB aTyh, eSraen&B AlawsayB ay & D a ħ l e t Q o rr o t bu; pizza from €4, ftira €5.50; h10.30am-7pm low and very clear. You can walk to San Blas Mon-Sat, 1-7pm Sun) An excellent bakery, open from Nadur in about 30 minutes; it’s just since the 1930s, selling traditional ftira and over 2.5km from town (take Triq San Blas off pizza, freshly baked in a bread oven and Triq it-Tiġrija, two blocks north of Nadur’s with a wide range of toppings. church). Bus 304 heads here every two hours from Victoria (18 minutes), via Nadur Anthony’s Bar (five minutes). & Restaurant MEDITERRANEAN €€ Daħlet Qorrot BEACH (%2704 2210; 20 Triq Madre Ġ Camilleri; mains €4.50-14.75; h5.30pm-late Wed-Mon) On the Attractive Daħlet Qorrot is popular with local weekenders. There’s a tiny gravel pretty square directly behind the church, beach, but most of the swimming is off the this is a small, friendly place serving pizza, pasta and Maltese dishes. rocks beside the rows of little boathouses (carved out of the rock, and with brightly painted doors); there’s usually plenty of 88 Getting There & Away space to park. It’s within walking distance of Nadur: from Triq it-Tiġrija, head north for To get to Nadur, take bus 322, which runs from about 300m on Triq San Blas, then take the Mġarr (seven minutes), and goes on to Ramla Triq Daħlet Qorrot turn-off; the bay is just Bay (eight minutes), Xagħra (18 minutes) and over 2km away. Marsalforn (21 minutes). Ramla Bay, San Blas Bay Qala & Daħlet Qorrot The village of Qala (a-la) has little to see ex- 1 Sights cept for a couple of 19th-century windmills. The road east of the village square (Triq Ramla Bay BEACH il-Kunċizzjoni) leads down to the coast at Ħondoq ir-Rummien, a popular swimming (Ir-Ramla) Ramla Bay is one of the prettiest cove with a scrap of sand, bathing ladders sandy beaches on Gozo, with red-gold sand. on the rocks and benches with a view across The minimal remains of a Roman villa the water to Comino. There are toilets here are hidden among the bamboo behind the and a kiosk catering to sunbathers. beach, and Calypso’s Cave (p130) looks down from the hilltop to the west. There’s a COMINO cafe-restaurant and sunbed/sunshade hire. Bus 322 travels to Ramla Bay from Mġarr Comino (Kemmuna in Malti) is a small, bar- (15 minutes, half-hourly) and on to Xagħra ren chunk of limestone wedged smack-bang (10 minutes) and Marsalforn (25 minutes). between Malta and Gozo. It was once report- The 302 runs between here and Nadur (five edly the hideout of pirates and smugglers, minutes, hourly) and Victoria (30 minutes). and its remoteness saw it used as a place of The walk here from Nadur takes between isolation for cholera and plague victims in 15 and 20 minutes. The beach is usually the early 19th century. The almost empty heaving with people in summer; it’s more island – there’s just one hotel here – is a tranquil in spring and autumn, and in win- breathtakingly beautiful place, ringed by ter you can have the place almost to your caves and sea cliffs. It’s home to the Blue (goose-pimpled) self. Lagoon, one of Malta’s loveliest but also most-visited natural attractions. In summer, oSan Blas Bay BEACH hordes of day trippers descend from Malta and Gozo, but in spring, autumn and winter San Blas, a tiny, rock-strewn bay with some patches of coarse, rust-coloured sand, is backed by steep, terraced fields with prickly- pear hedges. There’s parking space for only a
133 you’ll have a better chance of enjoying the incredibly beautiful and inviting, with a Gozo & C o m i n o QCS ioaglmhaitnso turquoise waters. white-sand seabed and clear waters. The blue is so intense it’s as if you’ve stepped Comino is only 2.5km by 1.5km. It’s a into an oversaturated postcard. The south- nature reserve and bird sanctuary, and free ern end of the lagoon is roped off to keep of cars. A walk along the rough tracks af- boats out; there is top-notch swimming and fords some great views of northern Malta snorkelling here, plus you can swim over to and of Gozo. It’s impossible to get lost here. Cominotto. The main part of the Comino Hotel is on However, in summer the bay gets incred- San Niklaw Bay, and the Comino Hotel Bun- ibly busy, particularly between 10am and galows are on Santa Marija Bay, 500m to the 4pm. It’s ideal to time your visit for later in east. Triq Congreve, a rough track lined with the day if possible. oleander trees, runs from Santa Marija Bay south to St Mary’s Tower. Side tracks lead to Take care in the unrelenting summer heat the Blue Lagoon and San Niklaw Bay. – there is no shade, and most sunbathing is done on the exposed rocky ledges surround- The only buildings of note are the stark ing the cove; also be careful of currents here little Chapel of Our Lady’s Return from on windy days. There are public toilets and Egypt, built in 1618, at Santa Marija Bay a few kiosks selling cool drinks, ice creams and the fortified St Mary’s Tower (%2122 and snacks (burgers, hot dogs and sand- 5222; www.wirtghawdex.org; admisson €2.50; wiches). Deckchairs and umbrellas can be h10.30am-3pm Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, if flag hired for extended luxurious lazing about. is flying), built by the Knights in the same year. It was once part of the chain of signal 88 Getting There & Away towers between Gozo and Mdina. It may have served as an isolation hospital at some Numerous companies operate trips to Comino point, and was definitely used to house live- from Mġarr on Gozo. Return tickets for adults/ stock, but was restored in 2004 and is now children are around €10/5. Usually the trip in- open to the public. Climb the steps and cludes a quick whiz around the island’s caves. enjoy the views. Sightseeing trips operate to the Blue Lagoon 1 Sights from tourist areas like Sliema, Buġibba and Golden Bay in Malta, and Xlendi and Marsalforn Blue Lagoon LAGOON in Gozo. Comino’s biggest draw is the Blue Lagoon, If you’d like to visit the Blue Lagoon from Malta a sheltered cove between the western end without the crowds, take advantage of the trip of the island and the uninhabited islet leaving at 4pm from Golden Bay with Charlie’s of Cominotto (Kemmunett in Malti). It’s Discovery Speedboat Trips (p78).
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Accommodation Includes A Where to Stay Valletta & Around.........136 In the last few years, something unprecedented has hap- Sliema, St Julian’s & pened to Malta’s accommodation choices. They’ve become Paceville.......................138 exciting. As well as the islands’ five-star grande dames and Northwest Malta......... 140 quaint family-run guesthouses, these days you can take your Central Malta ..............142 pick from bijou designer hotels, apartments and boutique Southeast Malta .........143 hostels that offer inexpensive yet stylish sleeps. Gozo & Comino ...........143 Valletta, the Three Cities and Gozo have gained some Best Places to Stay small hotels, B&Bs and apartments so lovely it’s tempting not to go out, and more are in the pipeline. ¨¨Casa Ellul (p137) ¨¨Valletta Vintage (p136) If you’re after a beach holiday, your best best is to aim ¨¨Hotel Ta’Ċenċ (p144) for the main resort towns on the northern coast, such as ¨¨Thirtyseven (p144) St Julian’s, Buġibba and Mellieħa. Their resort hotels and apartments are often well appointed, sometimes with great Best sea views, and there are some budget gems. Atmospheric Apartments Another option is to stay inland, where you’ll feel more in touch with Maltese culture, in the atmospheric towns of ¨¨Palazzo San Pawl (p136) Mdina, Rabat or Naxxar. The accommodation here tends to ¨¨Valletta Suites (p137) be small-scale hotels or top-notch B&Bs. ¨¨Indulgence Divine (p138) ¨¨Valletta G-House (p136) The islands are so small that wherever you base yourself you’ll be in easy reach of all the island’s destinations. Best B&Bs There are plenty of self-catering options all over Mal- ¨¨Mia Casa (p143) ta and Gozo, including some places in wonderful historic ¨¨Julesys’s B&B (p138) buildings in Valletta and the Three Cities; in Gozo, you can ¨¨Nelli’s (p138) rent converted rustic farmhouses, which usually come with ¨¨Knights in Malta (p142) swimming pools and make for a relaxing base. Pricing The following price indicators refer to the cost of a double room in high season, including private bathroom and break- fast unless otherwise noted. CATEGORY COST € budget less than €60 €€ midrange €60–€140 €€€ top end more than €140
135 Guesthouses and ringo rides (large rubber rings towed Accommodation by speedboats). Three-star hotels vary from Guesthouses in Malta are usually small, sim- swish and contemporary to dated rooms, ple, family-run places and are good value at with bathroom and air-conditioning. Most around €30 to €50 per person. Most rooms hotels, big or small, offer free wi-fi. will have a washbasin, but showers and toilets are often shared. A simple breakfast Malta-specific hotel sites include Holiday is normally included in the price. Facilities Malta (www.holiday-malta.com) and Malta Ho- usually don’t include air-con or a swimming tels (www.malta-hotels.com). Visit Malta (www. pool, but there are a few exceptions. Bear in visitmalta.com) also has lists. mind that some guesthouses in resort areas close in the low season. Rental Accommodation B&Bs You’ll get much more space for your money if you rent self-catering accommodation, The B&B is, surprisingly, a new concept in and if you’re travelling with a family, it’s Malta, and there are some lovely examples usually much easier (and cheaper) if you springing up around the islands, usually have facilities to cook some of your own with just two or three rooms, excellent at- meals. There are now plentiful gorgeous tention to detail and delicious breakfasts. self-catering apartments on offer in Valletta There are several great options in the Three and the Three Cities. Cities, central Malta and on Gozo. For the most outdoor space and laid-back Hostels holidays, you can rent a farmhouse on Gozo. These are usually several hundred years old A fantastic development in Malta in recent and are often beautiful rental properties years is the burgeoning number of lovely with swimming pools and garden court- hostel options clustered in Sliema and St yards. However, although they are usually Julian’s, usually small scale and with smart, called ‘farmhouses’, they are actually town- attractive rooms and facilities at very rea- houses, where livestock were once kept in sonable prices. These are ideally located for the basement or outhouse – so don’t expect students coming here to learn English, but them to be in the open countryside. They’re attract a wide mix of tourists and students a particularly good option in the height of of all ages, and are sociable, friendly places summer, when a swimming pool to cool off to stay. in is a boon. You can also occasionally find characterful self-catering townhouses or Hotels apartments on Malta as well, but these don’t usually have pools attached. Hotels in Malta range from simple seaside options to modern gilt-and-chrome five-star In the major tourist centres, such as palaces overlooking private marinas. But Buġibba or Qawra, there are hundreds of there is also an increasing number of plac- good-value self-catering apartments. Most es to stay in Malta that ooze character and have a private bathroom, a balcony and a style, including in Valletta and on Gozo. kitchen area with fridge, sink and two-ring electric cooker. They are often excellent val- If you’re after a more traditional glitzy ue at €30 to €40 per person, even in high large hotel, the main centres for these are season. the St Julian’s and Sliema districts. Most of the large four- and five-star places offer High & Low Seasons the kind of holiday where you may not need to leave the hotel’s grounds – they’re fully The cost of accommodation in Malta can equipped with cafes, bars and restaurants vary considerably according to the time (most hotels include breakfast in their rates, of year, and low-season rates are often a and some offer half-board and full-board bargain – frequently around half the high- arrangements). At these places you’ll usually season price. Low season is almost always find indoor and outdoor pools; a gym and/ November to March. High season gener- or sporting facilities; a program of children’s ally refers to the period April to October, activities; and quite possibly a health spa, a but some accommodation providers have dive company and perhaps a beachside lido a ‘shoulder’ or ‘mid’ season covering April, offering a pool and watersports, including May and October, with high-season prices water-skiing, boat trips, canoe or boat hire restricted to July and August (plus Easter
136 are eight plain rooms, each with pine wood- and Christmas). Some cheaper places don’t en furniture and a washbasin. Plants, wall vary their prices much across the year. hangings and ornaments give a warm and Bear in mind that some establishments homely feel. Book ahead. (small guesthouses and cheaper hotels) in some resort areas close in the low season. oValletta Vintage APARTMENT €€ It’s also not possible to stay on Comino from (Map p48; Triq ir-Repubblika; d €130; aW) November to March. Three lovely rooms for rent, designed by Often there’s a minimum-stay require- renowned local architect Chris Briffa, with ment at hotels or guesthouses, of three to beautiful use of colour, poured concrete seven nights. Some only require this in high walls, design-classic furniture and restored season, while for others it’s year-round. A original features. Each has its own rooftop few hotels offer discounts for longer stays. terrace. Price doesn’t include breakfast. Ac c o m m o dati o n Va l l e t ta & A r o u n d VALLETTA & AROUND oPalazzo Prince d’Orange APARTMENT €€ Valletta and the Three Cities across the (Map p48; www.palazzoprincemalta.com; Triq water have some wonderful places to stay, San Pawl; d from €120, 3-night min) Stay in style with a growing selection of bijou bou- in this beautiful 17th-century baroque pala- tique hotels that are perfect for romantic zzo, which has been converted into suites sojourns, as well as upmarket antique- that merge contemporary with the antique. decorated apartments. The most spacious is the Wilhelmina Duplex Penthouse, which has a balcony with sea This is the best place in Malta to be based view, but there’s also plenty of room in the if you’re interested in history and culture, Alexander Suite, with harbour views from and want easy access to a wide choice of the bedroom. No under 16s. restaurants and a growing selection of bars. However, you’re also only around 30 to 40 oValletta G-House APARTMENT €€ minutes from a beach if you want to spend a (Map p48; www.vallettahouse.com; Triq it- day by the seaside. The main museums and Tramuntana; apt for 2 low/high season €89/105, attractions are within easy walking distance, 3-night min; W) Book ahead to snare time at and buses depart from Valletta bus station this splendid apartment (over 20s only; no to all parts of the island. Many places have a children). The artistic owner has restored a minimum stay of three to seven nights, and 16th-century, character-filled townhouse to accept over 5s only. offer romantic self-catering accommodation. The entrance area doubles as a small sitting room, downstairs is a rustic cellar kitchen and a small bathroom, and upstairs a sump- Valletta tuous bedroom with a traditional Maltese balcony and striking floor tiles. Asti Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE € (Map p48; %2123 9506; http://mol.net.mt/ asti; 18 Triq Sant’Orsla; r per person with shared Palazzo San Pawl APARTMENT €€ (Map p48; %9942 3110; www.livinginvalletta.com; bathroom low/high season €25/35; W) This 318TriqSanPawl; dlow/highseason€95/130,3-night guesthouse is very much old school, in a 350-year-old townhouse, and run by the min; W) Housed in a beautiful 17th-century mansion are three graceful suites – ‘Hom- welcoming, determined and house-proud pesch’, ‘Pinto’ (with a Maltese balcony) and Mrs Galea. Breakfast is served in a cheery, plant-filled room with a vaulted ceiling and ground-floor ‘del Monte’. Each has a sitting room and kitchenette. Decor is elegant, ceil- chandelier. Up the stairs on various levels ings are high, and there’s a lift to take you up to the roof terrace for stunning views. The ‘Vilhena’ suite is next door, with three BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE 12-sq-metre rooms atop each other. For more accommodation reviews by Grand Hotel Excelsior HOTEL €€ Lonely Planet authors, check out hotels. (%2125 0520; www.excelsior.com.mt; Triq l-Assedju lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find independ- il-Kbir; r from €95; aiWs) The Grand lies ent reviews, as well as recommenda- outside the city walls, tucked beneath the tions on the best places to stay. Best of northwestern bastions. It’s a curvaceous all, you can book online. concrete block; sea-front rooms have bal-
137 conies with fabulous views over Marsamx- oCasa Ellul BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ ett Harbour; the less expensive rooms over- (Map p48; %2122 4821; www.casaellul.com; look the gardens or hotel plaza. Rooms are Triq it-Teatru l-Antik; d from €140; aW) Con- decorated in serene beiges, and the hotel’s verted from a townhouse that was a fam- five-star rating is evident through its staff, ily home for five generations, Casa Ellul service and food. is Valletta’s loveliest boutique hotel, with Grand Harbour Hotel HOTEL €€ eight rooms beautifully designed by archi- tect Chris Briffa. There are features such as (Map p48; %2124 6003; www.grandharbour free-standing bathtubs on the traditional hotel.com; 47 Triq il-Batterija; d €85, with sea view €120; iW) The Grand Harbour Hotel Maltese balconies, and jacuzzis on terraces in two of the uppermost newly built rooms has a great location, with astounding sea on the top floor. Older children only. views. There are 30 rooms, which have been refurbished, but are nothing flash, though Ac c o m m o dati o n Va l l e t ta & A r o u n d some have more flair than others. However, Trabuxu Boutique Living BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€ the view across to the Three Cities cannot (Map p48; %2122 6196; www.trabuxuboutique be beaten. There’s a roof terrace with even living.com; Triq i-Ispar I-Qadim; d low/high season more astounding views. €100/185; aW) Nine eclectically decorated rooms, with themes such as an Italian-chic Osborne Hotel HOTEL €€ ‘Dolce Vita’, the Arabian-styled ‘Araba’, and (Map p48; %2124 3656; www.osbornehotel. even the arched cellar room ‘Neoltica’, sur- com; 50 Triq Nofs in-Nhar; s/d low season €50/75, round a sunny courtyard in a 400-year-old high season €125/135; ais) The Osborne house in this fabulous hotel. It’s owned by has a smart, red-shuttered exterior. Stand- a Maltese couple who have been pioneers in ard rooms are decorated with pearly greys Valletta, running the excellent Trabuxu wine and patterns. Superior sea-view rooms are bar and restaurant. Older children only. grander, if a bit more old-fashioned, and have great views; deluxe sea-view rooms There’s also a larger penthouse suite with its own entrance. have recently been refurbished with shiny Valletta Suites drapes and arty padded headboards. On the 6th floor there’s a roof terrace with city – Maison La Vallette APARTMENT €€€ (Map p48; %7948 8047; www.vallettasuites. views, and a small plunge pool. com; Triq San Patrizju; apt per night €132-158, Castille Hotel HOTEL €€ 3-night min; W) Beautifully designed Valletta Suites have a few options around the city (Map p48; %2124 3678; www.hotelcastillemal- in boutique one-bedroom apartments with ta.com; Pjazza Kastilja; r €125; aW) Castille has cheerful front-desk staff and a grand plenty of style, antiques and all mod cons. Maison La Vallette is in a lovely 400-year- position in an old palazzo next to the ornate old townhouse, and handily located for both 16th-century Auberge de Castile. The hotel’s small lobby and lounge make a good first central Valletta and the Sliema ferry. impression, while guest rooms are dated, Valletta Suites with faded charm, imperial blue walls and heavy Italianate furnishings. Ask for a view – Valletta Nobile APARTMENT €€€ (Map p48; %7948 8047; www.vallettasuites. of the square. com; Triq San Nikola; apt per night €132-158, 3-night British Hotel HOTEL €€ min; W) One of Valletta Suites’ beautiful, boutique one-bedroom apartments, Valletta (Map p48; %2122 4730; www.britishhotel.com; Nobile is in the northeast of Valletta, and is 40 Triq il-Batterija; d €80-100; aiW) At the time of research, the public areas here were in a historic, wood-beamed house filled with antiques. It’s furnished with style, and has a undergoing refurbishment. The hotel has its balcony with a view along Triq il-Merkanti. pros and cons – on the plus side it’s afforda- ble, welcoming and well located; it enjoys great views over the harbour and the Three Valletta Suites – Lucia Nova APARTMENT €€€ Cities. The minuses: the rooms are simple (Map p48; %7948 8047; www.lucianova.com; and basic, it’s a real rabbit warren; and air- 88 Triq Santa Luċija; 2-4 people €158, 3-night min; con costs €7 per day. It’s worth paying extra aW) Lucia Nova offers a large apartment for a view. with two double bedrooms, sitting room and roof terrace. Each room is atop the other, and all are connected by a tradition- al Maltese spiral stone staircase. The decor
138 tuous and historic self-catering apartment is a thrilling mix of distressed original wall (no children) is a romantic base, and you coverings, Philippe Starck chairs and silk get lots of space for your money. It’s a 16th- Venetian headboards. century townhouse for two that’s been dec- orated with flamboyant shots of colour. It Floriana comprises a funky white-and-orange kitchen, a dining area with a pale blue Murano glass Phoenicia Hotel HOTEL €€€ chandelier, a coolly minimalist living room (Map p48; %2122 5241; www.phoeniciamalta. and a sunny roof terrace. com; Il-Mall; r from €190; ais) Just outside Valletta’s main gate, this 1940s old grande dame feels like the kind of place Miss Mar- oJulesys’s B&B B&B €€€ (Map p60; %9995 3465; Julesysbnb.com; 105 Triq ple might stay if she were in town, with San Ġorġ; r low/high season €129/149; aW) A top- Ac c o m m o dati o n FSl oi ermiaan, aS t J u l ian ’ s & Pac e vi l l e its potted palms and art deco piano bar. The hotel is due to close for a €15-million notch B&B in an 18th-century townhouse in the local-feeling backstreets of Cospicua, refurbishment from November 2015 to April this place is run by an Australian couple 2016. A higher rate gets you views of Mar- samxett Harbour or Valletta’s city walls. with Maltese heritage. There are two stone- walled rooms upstairs, one with lift access. In 1949, Princess Elizabeth (soon to be There’s a wine cellar housed in the 500-year- queen) and Prince Philip danced in the ball- room here. old cistern. Julie is a chef; she cooks gour- met breakfasts (the pancakes are renowned) Facilities include 24-hour room service, and offers cooking lessons. free parking, a business centre, lush 3-hectare gardens, a heated outdoor pool, a bar, and ex- There’s a roof terrace, and Roxy the labra- dor gives a warm welcome. cellent brasserie and restaurant. Vittoriosa, SLIEMA, ST JULIAN’S & Senglea & Cospicua PACEVILLE (the Three Cities) Sliema is the quieter and more residential Knight’s Quarter RENTAL HOUSE € of these areas, and it has a bevy of gorgeous (Map p60; %2137 0830; 8 Triq Gilormu; house new hostel options that are very much at (up to 4 people) €120; W) This lovely little house the boutique end of the spectrum, not party in Birgu’s most photographed street has two palaces for those in their teens and twenties, bedrooms, a living room, a dining room with but catering to all ages. Both Sliema and St kitchenette and a roof terrace with sunbeds, Julian’s also have some grand five-star and barbecue and a sea view. There’s underfloor midrange options. There’s access to the heating, a washing machine and a tumble rocky beach along Sliema’s seafront from dryer, and the walls are decked with original here. If you stay in St Julian’s or Paceville artworks from local artists or international you’re nearer to the small sandy beach, and artists with a Maltese theme. Book ahead. these districts form Malta’s gastronomic and nightlife centre. oNelli’s B&B €€ (%7958 8897; s/d €65/90; aW) This charm- ing Belgian-run B&B has blue-shuttered windows right on the waterfront, with four Sliema oHostel 94 harmonious, beautifully pared-down guest HOSTEL € (Map p68; %9949 7519; hostel94.com; 94 Triq rooms featuring pale limestone walls and Isouard; dm €16-18, d €35-80; W) In a converted paintings, and walk-in showers in their en suites. A glorious breakfast is served on the townhouse on a quiet, residential Sliema back- street, this is a fabulous, bright, fresh hostel, roof terrace on the 4th floor overlooking the with a choice of male- or female-only dorms harbour. with sparkling bathrooms or two wellpriced Indulgence Divine APARTMENT €€ double rooms, one of which has a balcony. (Map p60; %in UK +44 781 3988827; www.indul- gencedivine.com; Triq Allesandru VII; apt low/high There’s a white-walled, fresh communal space downstairs, and a kitchen where you can season €84/119, 5-7-night min; W) This sump- cook.
139 oHostel Jones HOSTEL € Imperial Hotel HOTEL €€ (Map p68; %2134 4093; www.imperialhotel (Map p68; %9932 0003; maltahostel.com; malta.com; Triq Rudolfu; d low/high season €72/100; Triq Adrian Dingli; dm €20-24, d €50-60) This is Sliema’s most imaginative place to stay, a aWs) Things move slowly at the Imperi- al, in keeping with the old-world interior hostel decorated by local artists, with rooms (dating from 1865) and vintage patrons. The called things like ‘Tree’, ‘the Speech’, ‘Ex- plosion’ (covered in splattered paint) and lobby’s chandelier and grand sweeping stair- case impress. The rooms don’t quite live up the trippy ‘Mush Room’ where the murals to the expectations raised by downstairs, but glow in the dark; the bargain double is the romantic ‘Lovers’ Room’. There are original they’re furnished by wrought-iron beds and are comfortable (you’ll pay more for a gar- tiled floors and cool communal areas, in- den/pool view and a balcony). cluding a kitchen and roof terrace. Regular barbecues and yoga are a plus. Ac c o m m o dati o n S l i e ma , S t J u l ian ’ s & Pac e vi l l e Pebbles ApartHotel APARTMENT €€ (Map p68; %2131 1889; www.pebblesaparthotel. oCorner Hostel HOSTEL € com; 89 Triq ix-Xatt; d low/high season €48/120; (Map p68; %2780 2780; www.cornerhostelmal- ta.com; 6 Triq Santa Margerita; dm low/high season aiW) This complex of 93 great-value studio apartments, decorated in cool greys €13/21, d €32/48; aW) Bright, breezy and and whites, is handy for the bus terminus sociable, Corner Hostel receives excellent reports. It has clean, small-scale mixed, male and the ferry to Valletta. The apartments are not for the claustrophobic – don’t expect a and female dorms, with funky 1970s duvet lot of living space: all studios have a private covers and peach or pale green walls, and double rooms in a converted townhouse, bathroom, kitchenette, phone and flatscreen cable TV. Pay a bit more for a sea view. with colourfully tiled traditional floors. There’s a rooftop where you can hang your washing, and a lift. Preluna Hotel & Spa HOTEL €€ (Map p68; %2133 4001; www.preluna-hotel. com; 124 Triq it-Torri; d low/high season from Two Pillows Hostel HOSTEL € €45/90; aiWs) This tall building offers (Map p68; %2131 7070; www.twopillowsmal- ta.com; 49 Triq San Piju V; dm low/high season sweeping views along the coast, and rooms are small but bright and fresh with touches €16.50/25, studios €62/110; aW) A boutique of colour. Facilities are exhaustive (health hostel in a beautifully converted 300-year- old Maltese townhouse, bright and spar- spa, private beachfront lido, dive school and a choice of bars and restaurants). The extra kling clean, with multiple small dorms cost for a sea view and balcony is worth it. (sleeping three to six) with flagstone walls and beamed ceilings. There is also a selec- tion of open-plan studio apartments, which Palace Hotel HOTEL €€€ (Map p68; %2133 3444; www.thepalacemalta. are themed by colour but mainly decorated com; Triq il-Kbira; r from low/high season €105/230; in white with only flashes of the appropriate hue; several have sea views or terraces. aiWs) Palace Hotel has a swish designer lobby and rooms that are pleasant, comfort- able and decorated in neutral colours. For NSTS Hibernia Residence something a bit more out-there, try the con- & Hostel HOSTEL € cept suites, including the Music Suite with a (Map p68; %2558 8340; www.nsts.org; Triq Mons G Depiro; dm €10-15, s/d studio €30/40; i) drum kit. Facilities include a luxurious spa with indoor pool, and a roof terrace with Amid all of Sliema’s new boutique hostels, outdoor pool with a superb view across the Hibernia is looking left behind: it’s insti- tutionalised and old-fashioned. However, Sliema rooftops to Valletta’s bastions. it proffers budget accommodation and a ready-made crowd (it’s popular with Eng- Waterfront Hotel HOTEL €€€ (Map p68; %2133 3434; www.waterfronthotel lish-language students). Shoestringers can malta.com; Triq ix-Xatt; r low/high season from camp out in the single-sex dorm sections, €70/150; aWs) The bright and breezy where three to four bedrooms (each with six Waterfront has a nautically themed lobby, to eight beds) share bathrooms and a gener- blue-and-white rooms and a rooftop pool ous kitchen-dining area. The National Student Travel Service and terrace with excellent panoramas across the harbour. Plus it’s in a nice location on (p170), an associate member of Hostelling the Sliema waterfront. It’s worth paying the International (HI), operates this place. €10 or so extra for a sea-view room.
140 Victoria Hotel HOTEL €€€ most of the bedrooms, three pools and an (Map p68; %2133 4711; www.victoriahotel. excellent spa, plus a private rocky beach. com; Triq Ġorġ Borg Olivier; r low/high season from €76/200; aiWs) This hotel’s lobby and bar are full of dark wood and leather club Paceville sofas – it’s not exactly Victorian, but the thought is there. Some rooms are equipped oHotel Valentina HOTEL €€ (Map p72; %2138 2232; www.hotelvalentina. with mahogany furniture, some with pale- com; Triq Schreiber; d low/high season €56/120; blue painted wood. The hotel is in a quiet lo- cation away from the seafront, and features aW) This is a small and appealing choice tucked away in a relatively quiet Paceville a rooftop pool, plus a small indoor pool on backstreet. Rooms have a jazzy contempo- the 7th floor. rary look, with lots of pale grey and white, Ac c o m m o dati o n NS to rJ ut hl iwaens’ st M a lta and geometric patterns. The bright, contem- porary lobby has a small, buzzing cafe. St Julian’s Ir-Rokna Hotel HOTEL €€ Hostel Malti HOSTEL € (Map p72; %2138 4060; www.roknahotel.com; (%2730 2758; www.hostelmalti.com; 31 Birkirkara; 6-8-bed dm €12, 12-bed dm €10) Aimed squarely Triq il-Knisja; d low/high season €32/77; aW) Stay within spitting distance of the glitzy at fun-loving backpackers, this is a sociable, Portomaso marina, but a long way from cheery hostel; a great place to meet people and have a laid-back time. Lots of events, the Hilton price tag. You’re also close to the nightlife, but far enough away from the barbecues and parties keep this feeling noise. Ir-Rokna is decent value, with plain, like a happening place, and there are even jacuzzis. unfussy rooms with balconies overlooking the busy square. Service is friendly and Boho Hostel HOSTEL € the hotel is home to Malta’s oldest pizzeria (%2765 6008; www.bohohostel.com; Villa Cycas, Triq Dun G Xerri; dm low/high season €10/22) In (mains €7 to €10). a converted villa south of St Julian’s, this George Hotel DESIGN HOTEL €€€ (Map p72; %2011 1000; www.thegeorgehotel feels like the kind of enlightened place malta.com; Triq Paceville; r low/high season you might find on the backpacker trail in Southeast Asia – a fun place to stay, with €90/180; aW) A swish, well-designed place that feels more like a designer urban hotel lots of laid-back attitude, a bamboo-framed than a seaside holiday locale, the George garden terrace with hanging chair, and brightly painted dorms (and one double) Hotel attracts holidaymakers and busi- ness travellers for its serene, contemporary looking onto the garden. rooms with iPod docks and access to the oHotel Juliani BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ spiffing spa. It’s a great location in the heart (Map p72; %2138 8000; www.hoteljuliani.com; 12 Triq San Ġorġ; d low/high season from €70/120; of Paceville, and excellent double glazing blocks out the party noise from outside. aWs) This 44-room boutique hotel is in a lovely restored seafront townhouse with a great setting overlooking Spinola Bay. It has chic guest rooms decorated in fresh sea-blue NORTHWEST MALTA hues and equipped with large flatscreen TVs. It’s worth paying extra for a more spa- The resorts of Malta’s northwest coast offer cious room with a sea view (these come with a massive array of holiday accommodation, a jacuzzi), but there’s no beating the views and this is where you’ll find Malta’s most from the rooftop pool and terrace. competitivly priced budget hotels. Hotels There’s an excellent restaurant, Zest range from massive edifices with multiple (p71), and a cafe. pools and facilities, to small family-run places with a more intimate feel. Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay HOTEL €€€ Golden Bay (%2137 4114; www.corinthia.com; St George’s Bay; s/d €160/280; aWs) The Corinthia is an Radisson Blu Resort & Spa HOTEL €€€ iconic Maltese brand, and this is one of the (%2356 1000; www.radissonblu.com; r €90-250; island’s classic hotels, with sea views from aiWs) The Radisson is a huge edifice
141 dominating one of Malta’s loveliest beaches. Buġibba, Qawra & It’s a three-tower, 10-storey hotel with 329 St Paul’s Bay rooms and chock-full of facilities. The 35-sq-metre ‘Serene’ deluxe rooms are wel- Buccaneers Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE € coming; they’re decorated in soothing sea (Map p86; %2157 1671; www.buccaneers.com. colours, and fluffy robes, fancy toiletries and mt; Triq Ġulju; r per person €20; aWs) This buffet breakfast are provided. friendly, family-run guesthouse is central and nicely small-scale, with just 30 rooms, If you can afford it, fork out for a sea and is surprisingly decent at a bargain price. view, but it’ll cost you around €70 more. The Rooms are clean and well equipped – all ‘Zenith collection’ comprises one-bedroom with phone, private shower and washbasin suites with a separate lounge, which are (toilets are shared). There’s a sun terrace a wonderfully roomy 70 sq metres. All are on the roof with a pool that resembles an Ac c o m m o dati o n NMoe lrltihewħ ae s t M a lta great for families. oversized paddling pool, and a lively bar and restaurant downstairs. Mellieħa Sea View Hotel HOTEL € Splendid Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE € (Map p86; %2157 3105; www.seaviewmalta (Map p80; %2152 3602; www.splendidmalta. com; Triq il-Kappillan Magri; per person from €20, hotel.com; cnr Dawret il-Gżejjer & Triq il-Imsell; r per person low/high season €18.50/30; s) Small-fry apt from €35; ai) This pleasant, pink-hued in comparison to the big boys in town, this 14-room guesthouse is at the southern end of town in a residential area, a few minutes’ walk cheap and cheerful hotel is on the prom- enade northeast of Misraħ il-Bajja and is from the main street. The spick-and-span open year-round. It’s home to tiny, rather guest rooms have plain, no-frills furnishings, private shower and washbasin (some have full basic rooms (with fans, no air-con), but all have balconies, and there’s a small pool, too, en suite); there are a few apartments. with terrace and bar, and pleasantly leafy The friendly owners also have self- catering apartments available, and a large surroundings. villa sleeping up to 10 people (€1300 to Gillieru Harbour Hotel HOTEL € €2000 per week). (Map p86; %2157 2720; www.gillieru.com; Triq il-Knisja; r per person low/high season €25/35; Maritim Antonine Hotel & Spa HOTEL €€ aWs) This small hotel on St Paul’s Bay (Map p80; %2152 0923; www.maritim.com.mt; offers value for money, with decent rooms Triq Ġorġ Borg Olivier; d €70-170; aiWs) The and a good pool and terrace above the res- glossy Antonine dominates the main street taurant. It’s well located between Buġibba in the middle of Mellieħa, with some sweep- and St Paul’s Bay. Upgrading to a sea view ing views from its higher balconies, either is worth it. over the pool or down towards the coast. Rooms and suites are decorated in soothing Sunseeker Holiday Complex APARTMENT € neutrals, each with balcony and satellite TV. (Map p86; %2157 5619; www.sunseekerholiday There are restaurants, a health spa, a roof- complex.com; Trejqet il-Kulpara; low/high season top pool and sun terrace, and lovely lush studio flat per person €26/50, 2-bed apt per person gardens with a large pool. €39/77; aWs) Tucked one block back from the waterfront in a quietish location, this Pergola Club Hotel HOTEL €€ central complex has indoor and outdoor (Map p80; %2152 3912; www.pergolahotel.com. pools, a gym, a sauna, a jacuzzi and a handy mt; Triq Adenau; r from €16/106 low/high season, minimarket. On offer are one-, two- and 2-person studio low/high season €32/120, 4-person three-bedroom self-catering apartments; apt low/high season €44/131; aiWs) Pergola, all have ceiling fans, kitchenette and lounge across the bridge from Mellieħa’s main road, area. Breakfast, a safety deposit box, and offers comfortable, neutrally decorated hotel TV cost extra, and air-con is available in rooms and self-catering apartments (entry is summer. at the top of the steps). The views from the sun terraces towards the church are lovely. Apartments sleep up to seven, with fam- There is also a health spa, an indoor pool, ilies in mind. two outdoor pools and a children’s splash pool, as well as a kids’ play area.
142 db San Antonio Hotel & Spa HOTEL €€€ (Map p86; %2158 3434; www.dbhotelsresorts. com/dbsanantonio; Triq it-Turisti; r low/high season Mdina from €100/180; ais) With a Med-themed Point de Vue Guesthouse whitewashed exterior and a colourful, & Restaurants GUESTHOUSE €€ (Map p96; %2145 4117; www.pointdevuemalta. light-filled lobby, this is one of Buġibba’s com; 5 Is-Saqqajja; low/high season d €70/85, large best hotels, and has recently undergone a thorough refurb. The high standards carry d €85/100; i) This guesthouse scores goals with a combination of affordable rates and through to the restaurants, the pool, the a privileged position, just metres from the Moroccan-style spa and the garden areas. Standard rooms are kitted out in breezy walled city. Rooms range from medium to huge, and are simply furnished, with tiled blue, white and turquoise; deluxe ones floors, whitewashed walls and white bed have a low-key beige-and-white look but Ac c o m m o dati o n CMednitnar a l M a lta some great views. linen. Go for the larger rooms, which have covered balconies and are much better. Dolmen Resort Hotel HOTEL €€€ oXara Palace HOTEL €€€ (Map p86; %2355 2355; www.dolmen.com.mt; Triq il-Merluzz; r low/high season from €50/190; (Map p96; %2145 0560; www.xarapalace.com. mt; Misraħ il-Kunsill; r €120-200; aW) This ais) This huge, plush waterfront 17th-century palazzo contains 17 soft-hued hotel has the unusual combination of a casino and its own prehistoric temple on duplex suites filled with antiques and origi- nal artworks; some have fabulous views. The the grounds. Rooms are lush yet pleasing- rooftop fine-dining restaurant De Mondion ly plain, and some have great ocean views (worth the extra cost). Creature comforts (p95), with sweeping views, is considered by many to be Malta’s best restaurant. include four outdoor swimming pools (one solely for kids), sports facilities, a spa and beach club. Rabat Seashells Resort at Suncrest HOTEL €€€ (Map p86; %2157 7101; www.suncresthotel. oMaple Farm Bed & Breakfast B&B €€ com; Dawret il-Qawra; d low/high season €92/150; aiWs) This 453-room hotel takes up a (www.maplefarmbedandbreakfast.com; Triq il-Bus- stretch of the Qawra waterfront facing kett; s/d €65/85; W) Just on the outskirts of Salina Bay. Rooms have been recently re- Rabat, within walking distance of Mdina furbished, the facilities are excellent and and the lovely wooded area of Buskett Gar- the clientele is diverse. There are plenty dens, this B&B is a fabulous choice, with a of restaurants, bars and a nightclub, and pool, gardens and sparkling-clean, simple guests have free use of swimming pools, double and twin rooms with garden views. beachside lidos and a summer watersports centre. Casa Melita RENTAL HOUSE €€ (Map p96; %7958 0800; 39 Triq Melita; per week low/high season €450/550; W) This re- stored townhouse sleeps six, and is on a lovely little pedestrianised lane. Facilities (including a kitchen and two bathrooms) are CENTRAL MALTA basic, and the house can feel damp outside summer months, but it’s reasonably com- If you want to feel like you’re staying in fortable. The best thing about staying here the real, local Malta, look inland. There are is the location in the heart of Rabat, with its some fine choices here, with a particularly local feel. Wi-fi is available on request (at an good selection of upmarket B&Bs, and the extra charge). settings are usually glorious buildings that are several hundred years old. The advan- Naxxar tages of staying in central Malta are also its oKnights in Malta local, untouristed feel and the sense of be- B&B €€ ing off the beaten track, while you’re actu- (%2143 2636; www.knightsinmalta.com; 138 Triq ally in easy reach of everywhere (as you’re Santa Luċija; s/d from €60/70; W) This lovely never far from anywhere in Malta). guesthouse in a 17th-century house, centred
143 on a traditional courtyard, has airy rooms Marsaxlokk that have plenty of character. It’s set in the oPort View Guesthouse historic centre of Naxxar, which has a few B&B € good restaurants. Best of all is the Grand (%9907 6004; portview.com; Triq il-Luzzu; d from Master suite, with a grand canopy over the €50) Carmel Azzopardi and his son Andrew bed. There’s a sun terrace and jacuzzi. run this smart, modern B&B that’s set back Chapel 5 Suites B&B €€ from the harbour, with large rooms deco- rated with touches of blue, some with sea (%2757 7555; www.bedandbreakfast-Malta.com; views. The rooftop breakfast terrace has a Souq 5, Triq Santa Luċija; r €80-100; aWs) Run by a welcoming couple who work in avia- view over the harbour. tion, this place has five rooms in a convert- oQuayside Apartments APARTMENT €€ ed townhouse set in central Naxxar, with Indonesian and Moroccan furniture and (%9947 8225; www.quaysidemalta.com; Xatt Ac c o m m o dati o n TShoeu tThheraesetVMi lallatgae s is-Sajjieda; s/d/tr/q from €50/65/75/85; aW) flagstone floors and walls. There’s a great With a set of different brightly coloured buffet breakfast served in the central din- ing room. They’re due to add another five doors in the old harbourside building that looks ready to star in a paint commercial, rooms next door. Quayside Apartments are a row of studio apartments, with stone walls and beams, and doors that open directly onto the sea- The Three Villages front. There’s a patio garden at the back. University Duncan Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE €€ Residence STUDENT ACCOMMODATION € (%2165 7212; www.duncanmalta.com; 33 Xatt (%2143 6168; www.universityresidence.com; Triq RM Bonnici; per person shared 2-bed dm €14-18, is-Sajjieda; d €60-70; aW) Friendly Duncan’s is above bustling Duncan Bar & Restaurant s €28-36; iWs) The University of Malta’s on the waterfront, and the spacious, aq- official student residence, 200m north of the San Anton Gardens, is 4km away from ua-hued guest rooms come in family-friend- ly configurations. They’re well kitted out for the centre of town and connected by a free lengthy stays, each with a sitting area, TV, bus service. It’s a well-equipped, well-run facility offering two-bed rooms in eight- small balcony and kitchenette. There’s a roof- top sun terrace – the perfect vantage point for room townhouses, and is a good place to sundowner drinks and harbour-watching. meet local and international students. Beware, though, that securing short- term accommodation here can be tough (especially from June to September). GOZO & COMINO Corinthia Palace Hotel HOTEL €€€ (%2144 0301; www.corinthia.com; Vjal de Paule; r If you fancy slowing the pace down, take low/high season from €105/170; aiWs) The the 25-minute ferry trip to Gozo and grand old five-star Corinthia Palace, close over to another world. Malta’s little sister to the San Anton Gardens, is a lovely grand moves at a slower pace, and it’s a good mansion, and has plenty of grande dame plan to spend at least a few days here, or atmosphere. It appeals to an older crowd base yourself here for most of your holiday. who enjoy the discreet location, lush gar- When the sun is shining (which it reputed- dens, health spa and upmarket on-site ly does for over 300 days per year), there’s restaurants. All rooms have a decent-sized plenty to do here, and it’s an excellent balcony – request a pool view. choice for self-catering accommodation, as well as some lovely hidden-away B&Bs, and small and five-star hotels. SOUTHEAST MALTA Victoria (Rabat) oMia Casa Fewer foreign tourists stay in southeast B&B € Malta, and there’s a sense of being off the (Map p119; %2730 0169; 23 Triq Santa Marija; beaten track. Marsaxlokk may be rammed d or tw €50-80) A fabulous deal, with three on Sundays, but the rest of the week it’s gorgeous rooms in a beautifully converted much less busy, and makes for a lovely har- historic Gozo townhouse, which include bourside base.
144 Sea-view rooms with balcony or terrace Maltese antiques and beautifully tiled are a worthwhile investment. floors and flagstone walls. One room has a balcony over the street. Children are not Ta’Ċenċ permitted. Downtown Hotel HOTEL €€ oHotel Ta’Ċenċ (Map p119; %2210 8000; www.downtown.com. HOTEL €€€ (%2155 6819; www.tacenchotel.com; Triq Ta-Ċenċ; mt; Triq l-Ewropa; d low/high season €65/80; d €170-190; ais) Lovely, upmarket Ta’Ċenċ ais) Victoria’s sole hotel offers bright, fuss-free, if uninspiring, rooms with respecta- hides in 160 hectares on a remote clifftop plateau just east of Sannat; Brad Pitt and ble three-star amenities (cable TV, hairdryer, Angelina Jolie took it over for five months minibar). There’s a family-friendly feel, with a rooftop pool (with magic views), soft-play when filming By the Sea on Gozo. Built out Ac c o m m o dati o n MG oġzaor r& C o min o of local stone, the simple, stylish rooms are kids club and bowling alley. From May to housed in trulli (cone-shaped buildings). October there’s a free bus service to Gozo beaches. There are landscaped gardens, two outdoor pools and a rocky private beach, with a beautifully set restaurant. Mġarr Grand Hotel HOTEL €€ Munxar (%2156 3840; www.grandhotelmalta.com; Triq Sant’Antnin; s/d from €80/120; aiWs) oThirtyseven GUESTHOUSE €€€ (%2720 0069; www.thirtysevengozo.com; r €140- There’s only one hotel in Mġarr – the 250, 3-night min; Ws) This stylish, rustic butterscotch-bright, four-star Grand Hotel, which has a fine position overlooking the place has 10 rooms set around sunny court- harbour. It has bright, airy, elegant rooms, yards in two adjoining farmhouses in one and extensive facilities including a sauna, of Gozo’s quietest villages. It’s owned and gym, games room, restaurant and cocktail run by a couple who used to work in the bar. Its least expensive rooms have no view; Milanese fashion scene – the decor com- from these it’s a small step up to a ‘country bines exposed flagstone walls and floors view’ room. with original artworks, one-off wallpapers and statement furniture. GOZITAN FARMHOUSES One of the best accommodation options for a stay on Gozo, especially if you’re looking for a little local colour and rustic charm, is to rent a farmhouse. Gozo’s farmhouses are in the villages, rather than set in open countryside – houses where farmers kept livestock on the ground floor. Dozens of these old, square-set buildings have been converted into accommodation, and many retain the beautiful stone arches, wooden beams and flag- stone floors of their original construction (some are up to 400 years old). Most rental properties are very well equipped with everything you’ll need for an easy holiday, includ- ing lush kitchens, a swimming pool, outdoor terrace and barbecue, laundry facilities and cable TV. They can sleep from two to 16 people, so are perfect for families or groups of friends, and the costs are very reasonable – from around €750 per week for two people in the high season (most high-season rentals are weekly), or from €60 per night for two people in the low season. The farmhouses are usually inland in pretty, slow-paced villages. Almost anyone with a guesthouse or hotel on the island can arrange a farmhouse for visitors. The following websites specialise in these kind of properties: ¨¨www.farmhousegozo.com ¨¨www.gozo.com/gozodirectory/farmhouses.php ¨¨www.gozofarmhouses.com ¨¨www.gozoescape.com ¨¨www.facebook.com/il.Pellikan.Holiday.House
145 Each farmhouse has its own outdoor Marsalforn pool. Patti and Giuseppe offer lots of local information, and meals, cooking cours- Lantern Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE € es and trips in their vintage speedboat (Map p127; %2155 6285; www.gozo.com/lan- (around €200) are available. tern; Triq il-Munġbell; r per person €25-30; a) The Lantern is a cosy guesthouse with clean, homely rooms, all with en suite, cable Xlendi TV and fridge (air-con available at extra charge). The friendly owners can also hook St Patrick’s Hotel HOTEL € (%2156 2951; www.stpatrickshotel.com; Xatt you up with reasonably priced apartments ix-Xlendi; s €28-60, d €44-72; ais) On the around town. Xlendi waterfront is the friendly St Patrick’s, with attractive, well-equipped rooms. The oMaria-Giovanna Ac c o m m o dati o n GX loeznod&i C o min o cheaper rooms face a pleasant-enough inter- Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE €€ (Map p127; %2155 3630; www.gozohostels.com; nal courtyard; the next step up sees larger cnr Triq il-Munġbell & Triq ir-Rabat; s/d from €50/80; rooms with a balcony and views over the town car park and valley beyond (it’s worth i) This place has 15 rooms, each decorated in rustic style, with funky cast-iron or wood- paying more for the ones with sea views). en beds, polished wooden furniture and col- The rooftop terrace has a spa and pool. ourful linen and rugs. Guests have use of the San Antonio Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE €€ hostel’s kitchen, dining area, courtyard and (%2156 3555; www.clubgozo.com.mt; Triq it-Tor- ri; s/d from €45/55; aWs) This lovely, leafy TV lounge. It’s run by helpful twin sisters who live guesthouse is a fair climb up the hill on across the road; they can arrange all sorts the south side of Xlendi Bay. The 13 rooms are good value, large, bright and spotless, of extras (for a small fee): laundry, home- cooked local meals, taxi service and a water with chunky pine furniture and balconies/ taxi to Comino. terraces. There’s a garden, a nice swim- ming pool (with views) and a kiddies’ pool. Calypso Hotel HOTEL €€€ (Map p127; %2156 2000; www.hotelcalypsogozo. For optimum views, request a pool-facing com; Triq il-Port; low/high season s from €60/90, room on the 1st floor. d from €85/145; aiWs) The Calypso is a San Andrea Hotel HOTEL €€ custard-coloured Maltese building on Mar- (%2156 5555; www.hotelsanandrea.com; Xatt ix-Xlendi; d low/high season from €26/38; a) salforn’s waterfront with 100 smart, bright rooms hued in warm blues. There’s a hand- This little hotel with a great location on ful of on-site restaurants, cafes and a sweet the Xlendi waterfront has plenty of sun- ny rooms with balconies looking out to shop, plus a diving school, and a lovely pool, bar and sun terrace on the roof. sea (€14 extra). Rooms are unexciting, but made by the views, and are small but com- fortable. Xagħra Xagħra Lodge GUESTHOUSE € (Map p129; %2156 2362; gozo.com/xaghra San Lawrenz lodge; Triq Dun Ġorġ Preċa; d €50-60; as) This oKempinski Hotel San old-school homely guesthouse is in a quiet neighbourhood, and run by a friendly Eng- Lawrenz HOTEL €€€ (%2211 0000; www.kempinski.com; Triq ir-Rokon; lish couple. The rooms feel as though you d around €200; ais) The Kempinski, close could be in a nice British B&B. It’s good val- to the wondrous coastline around Dwe- ue, with cable TV and balconies, a flowering jra, is a swish hideaway set in lush, palm- garden with pool and aviary, and an adja- shaded landscaped grounds. Rooms are cent bar and Chinese restaurant. Located a warmly decorated in polished wood and five-minute walk east of the town square. make use of smooth, pale, local limestone. Staff are obliging and there is a wealth of Cornucopia Hotel HOTEL €€ (%2155 6486; www.galahotels.com; Triq Ġnien facilities, including a spa with hammam, Imrik; d €70-120, bungalow or farmhouse €130- and restaurants where ingredients come from the organic garden. 150; aiWs) Cornucopia and its copious
146 Comino accommodation options are set in and around a converted farmhouse about Comino Hotels HOTEL €€€ 1km north of the village square. Four-star (%2152 9821; www.cominohotel.com; half-board accommodation is available in its 48 ho- d low/high season from €50/180, 3-night min, full- tel rooms and suites arranged around a board/sea-view supplement €14/8; ais) This courtyard, pool and pretty garden, or in old-fashioned four-star hotel is the only self-catering villas, bungalows, apartments place to stay and eat (guests only) on the and farmhouses. Request a valley view for island. It has 95 rooms at San Niklaw Bay sweeping countryside vistas. and 46 bungalows at Santa Marija Bay, but no self-catering options. Bungalows are a Nadur larger option than the hotel rooms, with a Ac c o m m o dati o n GN oa dz ou r& C o min o sitting area. It’s open Easter to October only. oQuaint Boutique Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL € By day there are hotel-organised activities (at additional cost) to occupy your time – the (%2210 8500; www.quainthotelsgozo.com; Triq 13 most popular is scuba diving, taking advan- Dec St; r from €55) The first of what promises tage of Comino’s excellent dive sites. Instruc- to be a four-hotel chain across Gozo, this tion and courses for beginners, experienced place is in a historic 19th-century building divers and kids are available through the sympathetically converted in contempo- hotel’s dive school. rary style, with bargain ‘comfort’ rooms, Other diversions include a private beach duplex and penthouse suites with terraces. (in San Niklaw Bay), swimming pools, ten- Downstairs is the Fat Rabbit restaurant, nis courts, bikes and watersports (including for breakfast. rental of windsurfing equipment, canoes, and sailing and motor boats). There are also Qala boat excursions. Or you can simply recharge Ferrieha Farmhouse GUESTHOUSE €€ your batteries in your bright, bland but (%2155 3819; www.ferriehafarmhouse.com; d €70-80; Ws) This large house, perched on perfectly adequate room (featuring air-con, phone, cable TV, fridge and balcony). a hilltop, is built in traditional style, with Day trippers can use the hotel’s facilities lots of space and fantastic views over the sea and over to Comino. There are four spa- for €47 a day, but this must be booked in ad- vance through the hotel. The price includes cious guest rooms, all with sandstone walls, a buffet lunch, return boat ticket and use of views and a great pool and splash pool. The Swedish owners have also installed a the pool and private beach. Casual visitors might like to escape the Blue Lagoon and wood-heated sauna in an outhouse. dine at the cafe or buy a drink at the bar.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Understand Malta & Gozo MALTA & GOZO TODAY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Largely unscathed by the recent European economic turmoil, Malta’s future looks bright. HISTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 For millennia, Malta and Gozo have been key players in the tumultuous history of the Mediterranean. THE MALTESE WAY OF LIFE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 What’s it like to live in one of the world’s smallest countries? What makes the Maltese tick? 5000 YEARS OF ARCHITECTURE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 From prehistoric structures seemingly built by giants, to Valletta’s Renzo Piano–designed City Gate and Parliament Building.
1 4 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Malta & Gozo Today Malta is a microcosm of the Mediterranean, with a powerful enough character to measure up to any larger nation. The country emerged relatively unscathed from the global financial crisis and has enjoyed steady growth. Compared to many of its neighbours, Malta appears to be positively basking in a sense of well-being, enhanced by Valletta being named European Capital of Culture for 2018. Best on Film Politics & the Economy Malta Story (1953) WWII epic about the embattled island starring Sir Alec The smallest state in the EU has largely ridden out Guinness. the European storm: EU membership led to a flood of Simshar (2014) Critically acclaimed foreign investment, and strict banking regulations pre- Maltese movie about migrants and a vented the kind of financial meltdown seen elsewhere. Maltese family shipwreck. Locals enjoy a good standard of living, with low infla- By the Sea (2015) Angelina Jolie tion and relatively low unemployment. Government writes and directs, and stars alongside debt is also low. Brad Pitt. Shot on Gozo. Dependent on foreign trade, manufacturing and Best in Print tourism, the Maltese economy could not entirely escape The Great Siege: Malta 1565 (Ernle being hurt by the global economic situation, but its re- Bradford) Rip-roaring read about cession was short and shallow. A weakened euro and the the epic battle between the Ottoman arrival of budget carriers on Malta’s deregulated airline Turks and the Knights of Malta. scene helped to keep the tourist industry afloat, as has Fortress Malta: An Island Under Valletta’s status as European Capital of Culture in 2018, Siege 1940–1943 (James Holland) which has led to many hotel and restaurant openings Evocative account of Malta’s fascinat- and museum renovations. Construction and specula- ing and essential role in WWII. tive property development remain strong areas, digital Earthly Powers (Anthony Burgess) gaming is one of Malta’s most dynamic sectors, and tax Set in a fictionalised Malta and written incentives have led numerous companies to base their while the author lived here in the operations here. 1960s. Since Maltese independence in 1964, the political scene has been dominated by two main parties: the Christian democratic Nationalist Party (Partit Nazzjon- alista) and the social democratic Labour Party (Partit Laburista). After 15 years in opposition, the Labour Party, headed by former journalist Joseph Muscat, won a decisive victory in 2013. Labour promised to address high energy prices and tackle corruption, though opin- ions are divided on how successful they have been so far. Migration There are around 24,000 overseas-born residents in Malta; the largest group is British, followed by Libyans, Italians, Somalis and Russians. Before Malta joined the EU, in 2004, immigration was very low, but since then
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