[Lonely Planet] Malta & Gozo

149 the country has become a gateway for migrants flee- POPULATION: 412,650 ing war and unrest in North Africa, who make the AREA: 316 SQ KM dangerous journey across the Mediterranean to apply MOBILE PHONE for asylum in Europe. SUBSCRIBERS: 581,000 INFLATION: 0.3% Racial tensions have been evident since the in- UNEMPLOYMENT: 5.7% crease in migrant numbers, and the islands’ size makes migration a controversial issue. Malta has if Malta were been criticised for its mandatory detention policy, of 100 people up to 18 months, which Amnesty International and others believe is at odds with international human 95 would live in cities rights obligations. A tragedy in April 2015, in which 5 would live in rural areas more than 800 asylum seekers died off the coast of Italy, prompted EU leaders to work harder to address belief systems the migration crisis, funding the search-and-rescue Operation Triton and agreeing on measures to try to (% of population) disrupt the trafficking networks. 98 In 2013 Malta introduced the ‘individual investor 1.3 0.7 program’, which allows outsiders to achieve Maltese citizenship if they invest in the country. Those who can Christian Other Muslim pay €650,000, buy government bonds of €150,000, purchase/rent a house at €350,000/€16,000 per an- population per sq km num and prove a genuine attachment to the country can receive a Maltese passport within 12 months. MALTA GOZO ITALY Environment ≈ 200 people Key environmental concerns in Malta are land use, increased development and the pressures of popula- tion. The country only grows around 20% of its food and has no domestic energy sources (almost all of its electricity is generated using oil-fired power stations), so it is heavily reliant on imports. There is also a se- vere shortage of fresh water – the only natural supply comes from ground water. Malta has the highest rate of asthma of all Mediter- ranean countries, with air (and noise) pollution caused by construction, traffic and discharges from power stations and factories. With such a small land area, disposal of rubbish in landfill sites is increasingly prob- lematic, though recycling is on the rise. Plans to site a new American University of Malta campus on 90,000 sq metres of pristine land in the southeast at Zondoq inspired protests about building on Malta’s increasingly scarce countryside. The gov- ernment is keen to promote the university, which is backed by a Jordanian company, because of the op- portunities and students it will bring, so the search continues for an alternative site. Hunting is a popular sport in Malta, with around 31 hunters per sq km. In 2015 a referendum was held on stopping the spring hunting of quail and turtle doves. The extremely close vote split the country, but the hunters won by a narrow margin. For more information on environmental issues, see Flimkien ghal Ambjent Ahjar (FAA; www.faa.org.mt), an NGO that campaigns to preserve the islands’ herit- age and environment.

1 50 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd History Inhabited for millennia, the tiny Maltese Islands have a rollicking history and some of the world’s most sophisticated prehistoric architecture. The islands’ destiny has been shaped by geography, with their natural harbours and prime location attracting a series of masters – the Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs and Normans among them. However, the most influential settlers were the Knights of St John, who held sway until the arrival of Napoleon. Under British rule, Malta showed incredible bravery during WWII, and finally achieved independence in 1964. Renowned British The Mystery of the Temple Builders archaeologist and About 1000 years before the construction of the Great Pyramid of scholar David Cheops in Egypt, the people of Malta were manipulating megaliths H Trump wrote that weighed up to 50 tonnes and creating elaborate buildings that Malta Prehistory appear to be oriented in relation to the winter solstice sunrise. The Maltese megalithic temples, built between 3600 and 2500 BC, are the & Temples, oldest surviving free-standing structures in the world. It’s thought the definitive that their builders were descended from the islands’ neolithic in- guide to Malta’s habitants, rather than being new settlers, yet it appears they started prehistory. This building these structures quite suddenly. comprehensive book includes It was a seemingly peaceful era, perhaps due to the islands’ then detailed visual geographical isolation, as no evidence of defensive structures remain. treatment of 30 The society that built the temples must have been sophisticated, as indicated by the scale and complexity of the buildings and the ev- key sites. idence of delicate sculpture and decoration (mostly now displayed in Valletta’s National Museum of Archaeology). The builders were also significantly wealthy enough to pay for the materials and ex- tra labour beyond the needs of everyday life. Although the materials were mainly local, they often were transported from a distance of around 1km. It’s thought that the massive slabs of stone were moved by rolling them on ball-shaped rocks – such stones have been discov- ered at the sites. The buildings have been termed ‘temples’ but, while there is evidence of ritual activity, it’s not known definitively what they were used for. c 5200 BC c 3600– c 2000 BC 2500 BC Arrival of first known Bronze Age culture inhabitants, by Megalithic temples are develops. built. primitive boats or rafts from Sicily. The Maltese Islands are more wooded, fertile and richer in animal life at this time.

151 It’s a mystery why this population died out: some theories are MALTI H is to ry A T radi n g P o st drought and famine, an epidemic or an attack from overseas – or perhaps a combination of these afflictions. Whatever the reason, It wasn’t till temple building appears to have come to a sudden stop around 2500 1934 that Malti BC. The temples fell into disrepair, and the Bronze Age culture that became the co- followed was completely different in its practices (for example, cre- official language mation rather than burial) and its artworks, which were heavier and of Malta (along- rougher than the fine work of the mysterious temple builders. side English), A Trading Post and the use of Italian was Phoenicians & Romans officially dropped. The first-ever As sea travel developed, so did Malta’s significance. It was impos- grammar of the sible for ancient vessels to sail overnight or attempt long, continu- Maltese language ous trips, so Malta was the ideal place to stop on a journey between was published at mainland Europe and Africa. this time. From around 800 to 218 BC, Malta was ruled by the Phoenicians and, for around the last 250 years of this period, by Phoenicia’s prin- cipal North African colony, Carthage. There is a direct legacy of this period visible in contemporary Malta: with watchful eyes painted on their prow, the colourful Maltese fishing boats – the luzzu and the kajjik – seem little changed from the Phoenician trading vessels that once plied the Mediterranean. During the Second Punic War (218–201 BC) Rome took control of Malta before finally crushing Carthage in the Third Punic War (149–146 BC). The island was then given the status of a municipium (free town), with the power to control its own affairs and to send an ambassador to Rome. However, there is evidence that Malta retained a Punic influence. The 1st-century-BC historian Diodorus Siculus described the island as a Phoenician colony, and the biblical account of St Paul’s shipwreck on Malta in AD 60 describes the islanders as ‘barbarous’ (that is, they did not speak the ‘civilised’ languages of Latin or Greek). St Paul’s shipwreck was also particularly significant because he brought Christianity to the islands. Malta seems to have prospered under Roman rule. The main town, called Melita, occupied the hilltop of Mdina but also spread over an area around three times the size of the later medieval citadel. The excavated remains of townhouses, villas, farms and baths suggest that the inhabitants enjoyed a comfortable lifestyle and occupied themselves with the production of olives, wheat, honey and grapes. 800–480 BC 480–218 BC 218 BC– 41 BC AD 395 Malta is occupied by Malta is controlled The Romans make the Phoenicians, a sea- by the Carthaginian The Romans take Malta a municipium faring people based in over Malta, having (free town). The islands present-day Lebanon. Empire, based in destroyed Carthage in prosper through trade, present-day Tunisia. as an outpost of Roman the Punic Wars. Sicily.

H is to ry E ast V ers u s W est152 Arabs The rapid expansion of Islam in the 7th to 9th centuries saw an Arab empire extend from Spain to India. Arab armies invaded Sicily in 827 and finally conquered it in 878; Malta fell into Arab hands in 870. Both Malta and Sicily remained Muslim possessions until the end of the 11th century, though the Arab rulers tolerated the Christian pop- ulation. They had a strong influence on the Malti language – apart from the names Malta and Gozo, which are thought to have Latin roots, most Maltese place names date from after the Arab occupation. Didier Destremau, Normans former French ambassador to For 400 years after the Norman conquest of Malta and Sicily (1090– Malta, wrote 91), the histories of these two Mediterranean islands were linked – Malte Tricolore their rulers were a succession of Normans, Angevins (French), Arag- – The Story of onese and Castilians (Spanish). Malta remained a minor pawn on the a French Malta edge of the European chessboard, and its relatively small population 1798–1964, a of downtrodden islanders paid their taxes by trading, slaving and lighthearted, piracy, and were repaid in kind by marauding Turks and Barbary corsairs. This was th\\e scene when the Knights of St John arrived, satirical history of having been given the islands (much to the islanders’ dismay) by the Malta ‘as it might Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. The Knights were to rule the islands have happened’, until the arrival of the French in the 18th century. had Napoleon not East Versus West got the boot. Swapped for a Falcon In 1479 the marriage of Catholic monarchs Fernando II of Aragon and Isabella of Castile led to the unification of Spain. Under their grandson, the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, Malta became part of the vast Spanish Empire. One of the greatest threats to Charles’ realm was the expanding Ottoman Empire of Süleyman the Magnifi- cent in the East. Sultan Süleyman had driven the Knights of St John from their island stronghold of Rhodes between 1522 and 1523. When the Knights begged Charles V to find them a new home, he offered them Malta along with the governorship of Tripoli, hoping that they might help to contain the Turkish naval forces in the eastern Medi- terranean. The nominal rent was to be two falcons a year – one for the emperor and one for the viceroy of Sicily. Malta consequently found itself at the heart of a struggle between two religious philos- ophies, Islam and Christianity, and became the location for one of the mightiest clashes between East and West, which was to shape the nation’s future and the landscape of the island as we see it today. AD 60 395–870 870–1090 1090–1530 St Paul is ship- After the Roman North African Arabs oc- Normans take over. wrecked on Malta and Empire split in AD cupy Malta, introducing During their rule, a introduces Christianity 395, Malta is believed Maltese aristocracy to have fallen under irrigation and the is established, and to the population. cultivation of cotton the architectural style Byzantine rule. referred to as Siculo- and citrus fruits. Norman developed.

153 WHO WERE THE KNIGHTS OF ST JOHN? H is to ry E ast V ers u s W est The Sovereign and Military Order of the Knights Hospitaller of St John of Jerusalem had its origins in the Christian Crusades of the 11th and 12th centuries. A hospital for poor pilgrims in Jerusalem was founded by some Italian merchants from Amalfi in 1070. The hospital, operated by monks, won the protection of the papacy in 1113 and was raised to the status of an independent religious order known as the Hospitallers. The Order set up more hospitals along the pilgrimage route from Italy to the Holy Land, and the knights who had been healed of their wounds showed their gratitude by granting funds and property to the growing Order. When the armies of Islam recaptured the Holy Land in 1291, the Order sought refuge in the Kingdom of Cyprus. In 1309 they acquired the island of Rhodes, planning to stay close to the Middle East in the hope of reconquering Jerusalem. And there they remained for over 200 years, building fortresses, auberges and a hospital, and evolving from a land-based army into the medieval world’s most formidable naval fighting force. The Order consisted of European noblemen who lived the lives of monks and soldiers. Their traditional attire was a hooded monk’s habit emblazoned with a white Maltese cross. This eight-pointed cross is said to represent the eight virtues the Knights strove to uphold: to live in truth; to have faith; to repent of sins; to give proof of humility; to love justice; to be merciful; to be sincere and whole-hearted; and to endure persecution. The Order comprised eight nationalities or langues (literally ‘tongues’ or languages) – Italian, French, Provencal, Auvergnat, Castilian, Aragonese, German and English. The hospitals created by the Order – first in the Holy Land, then in Rhodes and finally in Malta – were often at the forefront of medical development. Ironically, although the Knights had sworn to bring death and destruction to the ‘infidel’ Muslims, much of the Order’s medical knowledge was gleaned from the study of Arabic medicine. The Great Siege of 1565 Grand Master Philippe Villiers de L’Isle Adam (1530–34) of the Knights of St John was not particularly impressed by the gift of the Maltese Islands, which seemed to him barren, waterless and poorly defended. Equally unimpressed were the 12,000 or so local inhabitants, who were given no say in the matter, including the aristocracy, who remained aloof in their palazzi in Mdina. However, determined to make the best of a bad job and hoping one day to return to Rhodes, in 1530 the Knights settled in the fishing village of Birgu (now Vittoriosa), on the south side of Grand Harbour, and set about fortifying their defences. While in Rhodes, the Knights had been a constant thorn in the side of the Ottoman Turks. In Malta their greatest adversary was the Turkish admiral Dragut Reis, who invaded Gozo in 1551 and carried 1530 1565 1566 1798 The Knights of St John The Knights defeat Valletta is founded, and Napoleon’s fleet calls arrive in Malta, having Turkish invaders in the is the first planned city at Malta and captures been gifted the islands the island with hardly by Emperor Charles V. Great Siege of Malta. in Europe. a fight.

154 H is to ry E ast V ers u s W est The Order of off almost the entire population of 5000 into slavery. Not much later, Malta website in 1559, the Knights lost half their galleys in a disastrous attack on (www.orderof- Dragut’s lair on the island of Djerba (Tunisia). With the power of the malta.org) covers Knights at a low ebb, Süleyman the Magnificent saw an opportunity the long, illustri- to polish off this troublesome crew, while at the same time capturing ous history of the Malta as a base for the invasion of Europe. Knights, as well as information Jean Parisot de la Valette, Grand Master between 1557 and 1568, about present-day was a stern disciplinarian and an experienced soldier. He foresaw the knightly activities. threat of a Turkish siege and prepared for it well, renewing Fort St The Great Siege, Angelo and building Fort St Michael and Fort St Elmo. The Knights’ by Ernle Bradford, galley fleet was taken into the creek below Birgu, and a great chain is a page-turning was stretched across the harbour entrance between Fort St Angelo account of the and Fort St Michael to keep out enemy vessels. Food, water and arms epic 1565 battle were stockpiled, and la Valette sent urgent requests for aid to the between the emperor, the pope and the viceroy of Sicily. No help came. In May Ottoman Turks 1565, when an Ottoman fleet carrying more than 30,000 men arrived and the Knights to lay siege to the island, la Valette was 70 years old and commanded of St John. a force of only 700 Knights and around 8000 Maltese irregulars and mercenary troops. The Turkish force, led jointly by Admiral Piali and Mustafa Pasha, dropped anchor in the bay of Marsaxlokk, and its soldiers set up camp on the plain of Marsa. The entire population of Malta took ref- uge within the walls of Birgu, Isla and Mdina, taking their livestock with them and poisoning the wells and cisterns they left behind. The Turks began their campaign with an attack on Fort St Elmo, which guarded the entrance to both Grand and Marsamxett Harbours. The fort was small, holding a garrison of only 60 Knights and a few hun- dred men – Mustafa Pasha was confident that it would fall in less than a week. Despite continuous bombardment and repeated mass assaults on its walls, Fort St Elmo held out for over four weeks, and cost the lives of 8000 Turkish soldiers before it was taken. When the fort finally fell, not one of the Christian defenders survived. Looking across at the looming bulk of Fort St Angelo from the smoke and rubble of St Elmo, Mustafa Pasha is said to have mut- tered, ‘Allah! If so small a son has cost us so dear, what price shall we have to pay for so large a father?’ Hoping to intimidate the already demoralised defenders of Fort St Angelo, Mustafa Pasha ordered that several of the leading Knights be beheaded and their heads fixed on stakes looking across towards Birgu. The Turks nailed the decapitated bodies to makeshift wood- en crucifixes and sent them floating across the harbour. La Valette’s response was immediate and equally cruel: all Turkish prisoners 1800 1814 1814–1964 1853–56 The Maltese rebel Malta becomes a pros- The British rule Malta is the head- against the French perous trading port Malta, allowing varying quarters of the British garrison and ask the Mediterranean Fleet, and entrepôt; after the levels of Maltese and is used as a base British for assis- 1814 Treaty of Paris it is self-government. and supply station for tance. Following a formally recognised as the Royal Navy during naval blockade, the French surrender in a Crown Colony of the the Crimean War. British Empire. September.

were decapitated and their heads used as cannonballs, fired across 155H is to ry E ast V ers u s W est the harbour to St Elmo. It’s no small feat to cover a coun- Then began the final assault on the strongholds of Birgu and Isla: try’s past in fewer the Turks launched at least 10 massed assaults, but each time they than 300 pages, were beaten back. Turkish morale was drained by the long, hot sum- mer, increasing casualties and the impending possibility of having to but A Concise spend the entire winter on Malta (the Mediterranean sailing season History of Malta, traditionally ended with the storms of late September). The feroc- by Carmel Cassar, ity of their attacks decreased. On 7 September, the Knights’ long- is an entertaining promised relief force from Sicily finally arrived – 28 ships carrying introduction to some 8000 men landed at Mellieħa Bay and took command of the Maltese history. high ground around Naxxar as the Turks scrambled at Marsamxett. Seeing the unexpectedly small size of the relief force, Mustafa Pasha ordered some of his troops to land again at St Paul’s Bay, while the rest marched towards Naxxar from Marsamxett. But the tired and demoralised Turkish soldiers were in no mood to fight these fresh and ferocious soldiers, and turned and ran for the galleys now anchored in St Paul’s Bay. Thousands were hacked to pieces in the shallow waters of the bay as they tried to escape. That night the banner of the Order of St John flew once again over the battered ruins of St Elmo. The part played in the Great Siege by the ordinary people of Malta is often overlooked, but their courage and resilience was a deciding factor in the Turkish defeat. Besides the defence force made up of 5000 or so Maltese soldiers, the local women and children contribut- ed by repairing walls, supplying food and ammunition and tending the wounded. The date of the end of the siege, 8 September, is still commemorated in Malta as the Victory Day public holiday. From Heroism to Hedonism The Knights of St John, previously neglected, were now hailed as the saviours of Europe. Money and honours were heaped on them by grateful monarchs, and the construction of the new city of Valletta – named after the hero of the siege – and its enormous fortifications began. Although sporadic raids continued, Malta was never again seriously threatened by the Turks. The period following the Great Siege was one of building – not only massive new fortifications and watchtowers, but also churches, palaces and auberges (residences). The military engineer Francesco Laparelli was sent to Malta by the pope to design the new defences of Valletta, and Italian artists arrived to decorate its churches, chapels and palazzi. An influx of new Knights, eager to join the now pres- tigious Order, swelled the coffers of the treasury. The pious Grand 1887 1914–18 1919 1921 For the first time in its Malta serves as a There is a growing The British respond history, Malta acquires military hospital desire for Maltese to Maltese unrest by self-government. granting a new consti- representative during WWI. Tension comes to a tution that provides government through head on 7 June when for a limited form of a legislative council, composed of a major- riots break out. self-government. ity of Maltese elected Joseph Howard be- members. This is later comes the first prime revoked in 1903. minister of Malta.

156 H is to ry A M ilitar y L i n chpi n The Malta Story Master Jean de la Cassière (1572–81) oversaw the construction of the (1953), starring Order’s new hospital, the Sacra Infermeria, and the magnificent St Alec Guinness John’s Co-Cathedral. and Jack In later years, with the Turkish threat removed, the Knights Hawkins, involves occupied themselves less with militarism and monasticism, and more with piracy, commerce, drinking and duelling. men in spiffy uniforms fighting Following their 1798 expulsion from Malta by Napole- dangerous bat- on and the loss of their French estates, the Knights sought tles, performing refuge first in Russia and later in Italy. After several years of heroic acts and uncertainty, they finally made their headquarters in the Palaz- zo di Malta (the former Embassy of the Hospitallers) in Rome. winning hearts The Order continues to this day; since 2008 the Grand Master (of course). has been Englishman Fra’ Matthew Festing. See www.orderof malta.org/english for more details. Surprisingly, it’s the only movie A Military Linchpin made about the dramatic WWII Napoleon in Malta events in Malta. In the aftermath of the French Revolution, Grand Master Emmanuel de Rohan (1775–97) provided money for Louis XVI’s doomed attempt to escape from Paris. By the late 18th century around three-quarters of the Order’s income came from the Knights of the French langue (division), and when the revolutionary authorities confiscated all of the Order’s properties and estates in France, the Order was left in dire financial straits. In 1798 Napoleon Bonaparte arrived in Malta aboard his flagship L’Orient, at the head of the French Navy, on his way to Egypt to counter the British influence in the Mediterranean. He demanded that he be allowed to water his ships, but the Knights refused. The French landed and captured the island with hardly a fight – many of the Knights were in league with the French, and the Maltese were in no mood for a battle. On 11 June 1798 the Order surrendered to Napoleon. Napoleon stayed in Malta for only six days (in the Palazzo de Paris- io in Valletta), but when he left, L’Orient was weighed down with sil- ver, gold, paintings and tapestries looted from the Order’s churches, auberges and infirmary. (Most of this treasure went to the bottom of the sea a few months later when the Royal Navy under Admiral Nel- son destroyed the French fleet at the Battle of the Nile.) The French also abolished the Maltese aristocracy, defaced coats of arms, dese- crated churches and closed down monasteries. Napoleon left behind a garrison of 4000 men, but they were tak- en unawares by a spontaneous uprising of the Maltese and had to 1930s–50s 1940 1940–43 1942 Economic depression Mussolini’s Italy enters Malta assumes huge King George VI awards and political turmoil WWII on 10 June. On 11 strategic importance the George Cross, as a WWII naval and air result in large numbers June Italian bombers force base; the country Britain’s highest award of Maltese emigrating strike at Malta’s Grand for civilian bravery, to to the US, Australia, Harbour. Three ageing experiences heavy the entire population Canada and the UK. biplanes take to the air bombing and great of Malta. to defend the islands. hardship.

retreat within the walls of Valletta. A Maltese deputation sought help 157 H is to ry A M ilitar y L i n chpi n from the sympathetic British, who enforced a naval blockade. The The day after French garrison finally capitulated in September 1800 – but the Brit- Mussolini’s Italy WWII ish government, having taken Malta, was somewhat unsure what to entered WWII, do with it. one of that coun- try’s first acts of British Rule war was to bomb The Treaty of Amiens (March 1802) provided for the return of Malta Malta. to the Order of St John, but the Maltese, not wanting the Order back, petitioned the British to stay. Their pleas fell on deaf ears, and arrangements were made for the return of the Order. But when war between Britain and France broke out again in May 1803, leaving the British government faced with the blockade of European ports against British trade, they soon changed their mind regarding the potential usefulness of Malta. While the latter stages of the Napoleonic Wars wore on, Malta rapidly became a prosperous entrepôt, and with the Treaty of Paris in 1814 it was formally recognised as a Crown Colony of the British Empire. The end of the Napoleonic Wars brought an economic slump to Malta as trade fell off and little was done in the way of invest- ment in the island. But its fortunes revived during the Crimean War (1853–56), when it was developed by the Royal Navy as a major naval base and supply station. With the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, Malta became one of the chief coaling ports on the imperial steamship route between Britain and India. The early 19th century also saw the beginnings of Maltese political development. In 1835 a Council of Government made up of promi- nent local citizens was appointed to advise the governor and a free press was established. In the second half of the 19th century vast sums were spent on improving Malta’s defences and dockyard facilities as the island became a linchpin in the imperial chain of command. The Victo- ria Lines and several large dry docks were built during this period. Commercial facilities were also improved to cater for the busy trade route to India and the Far East. In 1883 a railway was built between Valletta and Mdina (it closed in 1931). During WWI Malta served as a military hospital, providing 25,000 beds for casualties from the disastrous Gallipoli campaign in Tur- key. But prices and taxes rose during the war and the economy fell. During protest riots in 1919, four Maltese citizens were shot dead by panicking British soldiers and several more were injured. 1943 1947 1958 1964 In July Malta serves A measure of self- Pivotal and pugnacious On 21 September, Malta as the operational government is restored Dom Mintoff resigns gains its independence headquarters and with a general election, as prime minister fol- from Britain, but Queen but a post-war econom- Elizabeth II remains the air support base for lowing a clash with the the Allied invasion of ic slump creates more British and the Maltese head of state. Sicily. Captured Italian political tension. warships are anchored church. in Marsaxlokk Bay.

158 The British government responded to the unrest by giving the Maltese a greater say in the running of Malta. The 1921 constitution created a diarchic system of government, with a Maltese assembly presiding over local affairs and a British imperial government con- trolling foreign policy and defence. H is to ry A M ilitar y L i n chpi n Malta suffered WWII 154 days and nights of nonstop The outbreak of WWII found Britain undecided about the strate- bombing in 1942. gic importance of Malta. The islands’ need for defence did not seem By comparison, crucial at a time when Britain was itself poorly armed, and the Ital- at the height of ian threat was remote until the Fall of France in June 1940. Thus London’s Blitz Malta was unprepared and undefended when on 11 June, the day there were 57 after Mussolini entered the war, Italian bombers attacked Grand days of continu- Harbour. ous bombing. The only aircraft available on the islands at this time were three Gloster Gladiator biplanes – quickly nicknamed Faith, Hope and Charity – whose pilots fought with such tenacity that Italian pilots estimated the strength of the Maltese squadron to be in the region of 25 aircraft. The Gladiators battled on alone for three weeks be- fore squadrons of modern Hurricane fighters arrived to bolster the islands’ air defences. The remains of the sole surviving aircraft, Faith, can be seen at Valletta’s National War Museum. Malta effectively became a fortified aircraft carrier, a base for bombing attacks on enemy ships and harbours in Sicily and North Africa. It also harboured submarines that preyed on Italian and Ger- man supply ships. Malta’s importance was clear to Hitler too, and crack squadrons of Stuka dive bombers were stationed in Sicily with the objective of pounding the Maltese Islands into submission. Malta’s greatest ordeal came in 1942, when the country came close to starvation and surrender. In April alone some 6700 tonnes of bombs were dropped on Grand Harbour and the surrounding area. On 15 April, King George VI awarded the George Cross – Britain’s highest award for civilian bravery – to the entire population of Malta. Just as Malta’s importance to the Allies lay in disrupting enemy supply lines, so its major weakness was the difficulty of getting sup- plies to the island. At the height of the siege in the summer of 1942 the governor made an inventory of remaining food and fuel, and informed London that Malta would only last until August without further sup- plies. A massive relief convoy known as Operation Pedestal, consisting of 14 supply ships escorted by three aircraft carriers, two battleships, seven cruisers and 24 destroyers, was dispatched to run the gauntlet of enemy bombers and submarines. It suffered massive attacks, and only five supply ships made it into Grand Harbour – the crippled oil tanker 1974 1980 1984 1989 Under returned Prime The USSR opens an Dom Mintoff again Neutral Malta hosts Minister Dom Mintoff, embassy on Malta as resigns as prime a summit between Mintoff forges strong Mikhail Gorbachev Malta becomes links with North Korea, minister, but continues a republic, with a the USSR and Libya. to play an important and George Bush Sr, parliament-appointed backbench role until marking the end of the president now the head 1998. Cold War. of state.

159 Ohio, with its precious cargo of fuel, limped in on 15 August, lashed INDEPENDENCE H is to ry I n depe n de n ce t o the P rese n t D ay between two warships. When Malta Malta was thus able to continue its vital task of disrupting enemy gained independ- supply lines. The aircraft and submarines based in Malta succeeded in destroying or damaging German convoys to North Africa to the ence in 1964 it extent that Rommel’s Afrika Korps was low on fuel and ammunition was the first time during the crucial Battle of El Alamein in October 1942, a situation since prehistory that contributed to a famous Allied victory and the beginning of the that the country end of the German presence in North Africa. had been ruled In July 1943 Malta served as the operational headquarters and air by the native support base for Operation Husky, the Allied invasion of Sicily. The Maltese and not Italian Navy finally surrendered to the Allies on 8 September, after which Malta’s role in the war rapidly diminished. by an outside power. Independence to the Present Day WWII left the islands with 35,000 homes destroyed and the popula- tion on the brink of starvation. In 1947 the war-torn island was given a measure of self-government and a £30-million war-damage fund to help rebuilding and restoration. But Britain’s reductions in de- fence spending and the loss of jobs in the naval dockyard led to calls either for closer integration with Britain or for Malta to go it alone. Malta’s prime minister from 1955 was the Labour Party’s Dominic (Dom) Mintoff, a politician who never shied away from controversy. He took on the Roman Catholic Church, which he saw as hampering progress, and proposed not independence but that the Maltese gov- ernment should integrate with that of the UK, with Maltese MPs at Westminster and the islanders given British citizenship. The British Government refused and Mintoff resigned in 1958. His clash with the church was instrumental in his subsequent electoral defeats in 1962 and 1966. On 21 September 1964, with Nationalist Prime Minister Dr George Borg Olivier at the helm, Malta finally gained its independence. It remained within the British Commonwealth, with Queen Elizabeth II as the head of state represented in Malta by a governor-general. Dom Mintoff took over once again in 1971, and Malta became a republic in 1974. In 1979 links with Britain were reduced further when Mintoff expelled the British armed services, declared Malta’s neutrality and signed agreements with Libya, the USSR and North Korea. His government brought in measures on housing, nation- alised many industries, and made all schools comprehensive. He forged a strong, if erratic, relationship with Colonel Muammar Gaddafi, and in 1980 the USSR opened an embassy on the island. In 1984 Mintoff stood down as prime minister but continued as an 2003–04 2008 2012 2015 In a 2003 referendum On 1 January Malta Former prime minister Malta votes to retain with a voter turnout of kisses goodbye to Dom Mintoff dies, the tradition of spring 92%, just over half the the Maltese lira, its aged 96. bird hunting in a nation- electorate votes to join currency since 1972, the EU. On 1 May 2004 and adopts the euro. wide referendum. Maltese euro coins Malta joins the EU, proudly display the along with nine other Maltese cross. states.

H is to ry I n depe n de n ce t o the P rese n t D ay160 influential backbencher. When he died in 2012, thousands of Maltese united in mourning and assessed the legacy of their most prominent contemporary politician. In the 1987 election, the conservative Nationalists achieved a majority and retained power for most of the next 26 years. In 1989 Malta was the scene for the historic summit between USSR and US leaders Mikhail Gorbachev and George Bush Sr that signalled the end of the Cold War. The meetings took place on board the Soviet cruise ship SS Maxim Gorkiy, anchored off the coast of Marsaxlokk, in choppy seas. In 2004 Malta joined the EU, and in 2008 became part of the Eurozone, which brought much inward investment and helped diver- sify the local economy. More recently the islands have been buffeted by, but largely rode out, the European financial crisis, experiencing reasonably steady growth.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 161 The Maltese Way of Life The Maltese have many passions: Roman Catholicism, band clubs, sport, cars, fire- works, swimming, sailing, food and family. And almost as many cultural influences from the nation’s string of occupiers: the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Sicilians, Knights of St John, French and British. This is a society with a unique, powerful identity that harbours numerous contradictions – it’s old- fashioned yet forward-thinking, bureaucratic yet rule-bending, a defensive small island that extends a warm welcome. Psyche Aspiring anthro- pologists should The Maltese are friendly and warm, yet it can take a long time for out- seek out Tarcisio siders to feel integrated into society, despite the many different national- Zarb’s book Folk- ities who’ve made their home here over millennia. Malta has one of the lore of an Island – highest per capita refugee acceptance rates in the world but the issue of Maltese Threshold migrants from North Africa is fiercely debated, and Malta was rated 33rd Customs, which out of 38 countries in the 2015 Migrant Integration Policy Index. covers Maltese traditions related Church buildings and parish activities remain at the core of village life, and the Catholic Church still exerts a strong influence. If you’re here to all of life’s during an important religious festival such as Holy Week or any of the big occasions, festas (celebrating villages’ patron saints, from June to September) you’ll including birth, experience firsthand how people of all ages take part, from young chil- puberty, marriage dren in costume to the frailest elderly locals lined up in wheelchairs to watch the procession pass. and death. Family values are held in high regard, as is the love of socialising com- mon to southern European countries – Sunday in particular is the day to gather with family and friends, and enjoy good food and company. In some ways Malta feels wedded to tradition, but it also embraces the new – it’s an important iGaming centre, for example. There are strong class divisions, perhaps a hangover from British rule, and the elite tend to speak English and attend English schools. The south is more Maltese and slightly looked down upon by the more cosmopolitan north but, on such a small island, everyone mingles in any case. The Maltese are justifiably proud of their small country’s historical importance and the local grit and determination (well demonstrated during WWII). The vast majority of the population take great interest in political matters and love discussing politics – the accessibility of pol- iticians in this small population probably plays a large part. The locals also put their money where their mouth is: voter turnout is among the highest in the world (over 90%) but, interestingly, margins are usually close – the country seems fairly evenly split on major issues. In the 2015 hunting referendum the pro-hunting side won 50.44% to 49.56%. The Maltese relish taking sides in other areas too: there is fierce competition between the local band clubs, the local football teams, and about who has the best local festa.

162 The Maltese Way of Life The Church The Church Malta is among Malta’s Roman Catholic Church exerts a powerful influence, and the most densely the important events of people’s lives are all celebrated in church: christenings, first communions, weddings and funerals. One indicator of populated the Church’s strength is the fact that divorce only became legal here in countries in the 2011 (it’s been legal in Italy since 1974). Under the Maltese constitution, world, with 1336 Roman Catholic Christianity is the official state religion and must be people per sq taught in state schools, though the constitution guarantees freedom of km, slightly more worship. than Bangladesh, which has 1218. Though the Roman Catholic Church plays a major role in everyday life, there is evidence that its influence is waning. Around 95% of Maltese Etiquette are Catholic, but the Church estimates that only around 40% now attend Sunday Mass – a drop of around 20% in 20 years (but still larger than in Do dress respect- Italy, where the figure is more like 20% to 30%). fully when visiting Religious occasions are celebrated with food and drink, socialising, a church. music, processions and fireworks, and the most important event in the Don’t go topless on calendar is the annual parish festa, which is held on the day of the vil- lage’s patron saint. the beach. Do avoid eating Women in Malta meat on a Friday, Women have been traditionally expected to stay at home to look after traditionally their children or elderly parents, or to be supported by their husbands the day Roman – it’s still thought of as unusual for women to be completely financially Catholics eat fish. independent. Malta’s gender employment gap is the largest in the EU, with around 60% of women not employed. The government has been trying to address this issue, introducing lots of incentives for women to work; for example, tax incentives for married women over 40 who return to work, and free childcare centres. The costs of childcare appear low compared with the UK or other European countries, but so are many of the rates of pay. After-school clubs, which most schools have, cost 80c per hour, while a childminder costs around €3 per hour (the minimum wage is €4.16 per hour). There are lots of free or inexpensive sports-centred courses for children over the long summer months (school holidays run from June to September) as the government tries to address the child obesity problem: one in four Maltese children are judged to be obese (rates elsewhere in Europe are around one in five). Locals talk of low official wages spurring the creation of a parallel economy of cash work on the side. Taking on two to three jobs is com- mon, and many qualified women work from home, in positions such as hairdressing and dressmaking, which is another contributor to the low official percentage of women in employment. Interestingly, the birth rate is fairly low at around 1.4 children per woman of child-bearing age, a little higher than its famously non- procreative and Roman Catholic neighbour Italy, but not much. A LINGUISTIC MELTING POT The native language of Malta is Malti (also called Maltese). Some linguists attribute its origins to the Phoenician occupation of Malta in the 1st millennium BC, but most link it to North African Arabic dialects. The language has an Arabic grammar and construction but is formed from a morass of influences, laced with Sicilian, Italian, Spanish, French and English loan-words. Until the 1930s, Italian was the official language of the country, used in the Church and for all administrative matters, even though only the aristocracy could speak it. Malti only became an official language in 1934 (alongside English). English is taught to schoolchildren from an early age, and almost everyone in Malta speaks it well. Many also speak Italian, helped by the fact that Malta receives Italian TV. French and German are also spoken, though less widely.

Malta at Play 163Th e M a lte se Way o f Li fe M a lta at P l ay For Rozina…a Music Husband, by playwright and The Maltese are great music lovers and the għana (ah-na; folk song) is novelist Francis Maltese folk music at its most individual and traditional. A tribute to Ebejer (1925–93), Malta’s geographic location, għana verses are a mixture of the Sicilian is a collection ballad and the rhythmic wail of an Arabic tune, and were traditionally of short stories viewed as the music of the farmers, labourers and working classes. In the (in English) that genre’s truest form, lyrics are created fresh each time and tell stories of seeks to capture village life and events in local history. The verses are always sung by men the essence of with guitar accompaniment. Maltese village The St James’ Cavalier Centre for Creativity in Valletta organises għa- life. na nights, as do other venues across Malta, especially in the centre and south. You might see performances at various heritage events, or even The Cultural chance upon an impromptu għana performance in a rural bar. Għanafest Events section of takes place in mid-June in Floriana, with three days of live concerts. www.maltacul- ture.com (from Etnika is one traditional folk group that has revived ethnic Maltese the Malta Council musical forms and instruments. Their style of music, using traditional for Culture & the bagpipes, horns and drums, was once part of Malta’s daily life, and was Arts) is a great used in a variety of social contexts, including weddings and funerals. starting point for Etnika reinterpret this musical heritage for a contemporary audience information about and sometimes fuse it with għana, jazz and flamenco, for a unique sound. forthcoming Traditional band music is one of the most popular traditions on the cultural events, islands, with bands playing a vital role in the village festa and other including literary open-air events. Every town and village has at least one band club and recitals, tradi- they are often engaged in strong rivalry. tional folk music performances There’s a great deal of live music in Malta over the spring and summer and lunchtime months, with gigs at pubs and bars and the Jazz Festival, Arts Festival, Music Week and the Isle of MTV. concerts. Crafts Malta is noted for its fine crafts, especially its handmade lace, hand woven fabrics and silver filigree. Lace-making probably arrived with the Knights in the 16th century. It was traditionally the role of village women. Although the craft has developed into a healthy industry, you still occasionally see women mak- ing lace in villages around Gozo. The art of producing silver filigree was probably introduced to the islands in the 17th century via Sicily, which was then strongly influenced by Spain. Malta’s silversmiths still produce beautiful filigree by tradi- tional methods, yet it’s mostly created in large quantities to meet tourist demand. Other handicrafts include weaving, knitting and glass-blowing; the latter is an especially healthy small industry that produces glassware exported throughout the world. Head to Ta’Qali Crafts Village near Rabat or its smaller Gozitan equivalent, Ta’Dbieġi, for the opportunity to see locals practising their craft and to buy souvenirs. Malta Artisan Markets (www.maltaartisanmarkets.com) are regular events held in locations such as Palazzo Parisio, where you can find contemporary crafts made by artisans around the islands. Sport Football (Soccer) The Maltese are staunch, passionate football fans and follow the for- tunes of local sides and international teams (especially British and Italian) with equal fervour – countless bars televise matches. The local and Maltese Premier League season runs from October till May; league and international matches are held at the 20,000-seat Ta’Qali National

The Maltese Way of Life Sport164 BIRD HUNTING One of Malta’s favourite traditional sports is bird hunting; there are around 14,000 regis- tered hunters and trappers in the country. Most birds are shot or trapped while migrating between Africa and Europe; Malta is one of the major flyways for migrating birds and more than 384 species have been recorded here. The spring hunting season is open between 12 and 30 April; the autumn season runs from 1 September to 31 January. Two species of bird – turtle dove and quail – may be legally hunted; shooting at any other bird is illegal. There has been a decline in illegal shootings but they do happen, and in 2015 the spring hunting season was closed three days early by the prime minister after a kestrel – a protected bird of prey – was shot by a hunter and landed in a school playground. Since 2007 BirdLife Malta has kept a centralised database on illegal hunting and trap- ping incidents witnessed by ornithologists, members of the public and the organisation’s staff and volunteers. Malta is the only EU member state that still allows hunting during the spring season. In 2015 there was a national referendum to decide whether spring hunting should be banned completely. Polls prior to the vote showed the conservationists with a strong lead, but the pro-hunting camp won by a slim majority of 2220, to maintain the tradition. It is estimated Stadium (%2143 6137; www.mfa.com.mt), which is situated between Mosta that there are as and Rabat, and results are reported in the local newspapers. The Malta Football Association (www.mfa.com.mt/en/home.htm) and Malta Foot- many Maltese ball (www.maltafootball.com) are good resources. living abroad as there are in Water Polo Malta. As the heat of summer increases, football gives way to water polo. Between July and September, the fans who were once shouting on the terraces now yell from the pool side. Games are fierce and physical – it’s worth trying to take in a match during your stay. The important clashes are held at the Tal-Qroqq National Swimming Pool Complex on Triq Maria Teresa Spinelli in Gżira. Further information is available from the Aquatic Sports Association (www.asaofmalta.com). Racing Another of Malta’s much-loved spectator sports is horse racing. Race meetings are held at the Marsa Racecourse (part of the Marsa Sports Club outside Valletta) every Sunday, and sometimes on Friday and Sat- urday, from January to July. Races are mostly harness racing – and the betting is frantic. In season, some tour operators offer a day trip to the races. For more information see www.maltaracingclub.com. In car-loving Malta, motor racing is also hugely popular; the Mdina Grand Prix Classic Car Event (www.vallettagrandprix.com) takes place annually in October, with a challenging 2.2km circuit outside the city walls.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 165 5000 Years of Architecture Malta’s architectural history kicked off in spectacular fashion. Here is some of the world’s most extraordinary prehistoric architecture, great temple-like buildings both above and below ground. The next inhabitants to leave such a powerful mark on the islands were the Knights of St John, with their stately 16th- and 17th-century fortified towns and gilded baroque cathedrals. You won’t just be astounded by the buildings of the past but also by those of today, most notably Renzo Piano’s dramatic additions to new-look Valletta. The architecture on Malta and Gozo is partly shaped by geology: the Malta’s islands are predominantly made up of layers of limestone. This type of prehistoric tem- stone, with its natural faults, allows rocks to be levered out with sim- ple tools. Prehistoric builders exploited the weaknesses in the rock to ples predate carve out their mammoth slabs. The stone, while soft when first quar- the Egyptian ried, becomes harder when it dries out, making it ideal for carving and pyramids by moulding. around 1000 Historical context is also of huge importance. Grand defensive struc- years. tures are abundant, signalling how often the islands were fought over throughout their history. There are the great forts and walled cities con- structed by the Knights of St John; the Victoria Lines, built by the Brit- ish, running across the Maltese hills; and castellated watchtowers, which stalk the coastline like sentinels. Prehistoric Innovation Best Prehistoric The islands are home to a series of extraordinary megalithic monuments constructed between the 4th and 3rd millennia BC. A model made by Hal Saflieni the temple builders has been discovered, which shows the corbelled roof Hypogeum, Malta of a temple made of stone, indicating the extraordinary sophistication of Tarxien Temples, the ancient builders. Malta The Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, a multi-level underground burial com- Ħaġar Qim & plex hewn out of Globigerina limestone, dates from 5000 years ago. The Mnajdra, Malta builders carved out the stone in such a way as to imitate structures above Ġgantija, Gozo ground, with rock-cut decoration, smoothed walls and curved ceilings. The well-preserved forms of this underground complex have also cast light on the less enduring monuments above ground, such as the Tarx- ien Temples and Ħaġar Qim on Malta and Ġgantija on Gozo. Where the roofs of the above-ground temples have collapsed, the Hypogeum’s par- allel subterranean architecture provides an invaluable reference point. Early Prosperity Malta’s urban architecture developed during prosperous times. The Carthaginians built Malta’s first towns, although little remains from this period. Some significant Roman relics have been preserved, including the grand villa complex at Rabat in central Malta, a typically Roman structure centred on a peristyle courtyard. Although the cultural impact

5000 Y e a rs o f A rc h itec t u re M i l i tar y M i g h t166 MALTA’S CHURCHES The Maltese claim to be one of the earliest Christian peoples in the world, having been converted by St Paul after his shipwreck on Malta in AD 60, and ecclesiastical architec- ture certainly dominates the landscape. There are 64 Catholic parishes and 313 Catholic churches on Malta, and 15 Catholic parishes and 46 Catholic churches on Gozo. The main period of church-building in Malta took place after the arrival of the Knights of St John, in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries; the oldest surviving church is the tiny medieval Chapel of the Annunciation at Ħal Millieri near Żurrieq, which dates from the mid-15th century. In the 16th century the Knights imported the Renaissance style from Italy. This was supplanted by the more elaborate forms of Maltese baroque, which evolved throughout the 17th century and culminated in the design of St Paul’s Cathedral in Mdina. The 19th and 20th centuries saw the addition of several large churches in the neo-Gothic style, including St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral in Valletta and the Church of Our Lady of Lourdes in Mġarr, Gozo. Two huge rotundas were also built by public subscription: the vast Church of St Mary at Mosta (1833–60) and the Church of St John the Baptist (1951–71) at Xewkija, Gozo, which has space to seat 4000 people. At Ġgantija, the of the later Islamic period was extremely significant, it left little archi- finer interior work tectural trace. was created from Globigerina lime- For over 2000 years Mdina was the island’s major town. Originally a Phoenician settlement, it was enlarged and built upon by the Romans, stone, dragged and developed further by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans and Arag- from over a onese. Mdina reached its current form in the 15th and 16th centuries, though the 1720s saw major redevelopment as the fortifications were kilometre away. bolstered. Read Malta: Phoenician, Military Might Punic & Roman, When the Knights of St John arrived in Malta in the 16th century they set by Anthony about building defences, particularly around Birgu (Vittoriosa); they also rebuilt the fortifications around Mdina. They based themselves at Birgu, Bonanno, to learn and here constructed splendid hostels, or auberges, where the members about the island’s of the Order lived. early history. After the Knights fought off the Ottoman threat in the Great Siege of 1565, grateful European allies poured money into Malta. With this largesse the Knights built Valletta, surrounding it with huge bastions. Because the island is so rocky, the fortifications were often carved into the rock, rather than built upon it, which helped increase their strength. The well-connected Knights had access to all the leading courts of Europe, so were able to call on the great military engineers of the era to create cutting-edge defences, which remain vastly impressive today. These constructions are not merely intimidating, but also beautiful, with delicate decorative elements that exalt their builders – intricacies that helped reinforce the power of the Order. However, the extent of the building was vastly expensive, and by the late 1600s the order was bankrupted by its cost. Built by conflict but untested, these fortifications were the nuclear weaponry of their day, act- ing as a deterrent to potential invaders. Baroque Splendours Together, the Knights of St John and the Church created a distinctive variation of baroque, the ornate style that dominated Europe from the 16th to the 18th centuries. This frenzy of decoration was a visual form of propaganda, exalting God, Christianity and the nobility of its builders.

167 The greatest Maltese architect of the 16th century was Gerolamo Cas- Best 5000 Y e a rs o f A rc h itec t u re G reat M a n s i o n s sar (1520–86). He was born in the fishing village of Birgu 10 years before Baroque the Knights of St John arrived from Rhodes, and worked as an assistant to Francesco Laparelli, the military engineer who designed the fortifica- St John’s tions of Valletta. Cassar studied architecture in Rome and was respon- Co-Cathedral, sible for the design of many of Malta’s finest buildings, including the Grand Master’s Palace, the facade of St John’s Co-Cathedral and many of Valletta the Knights’ auberges. St Paul’s Ship- wreck Church, Prolific architect Tommaso Dingli (1591–1666) created many of Malta’s parish churches. His masterpiece is the Church of St Mary in Attard, Valletta which he designed when he was only 22 years of age. Lorenzo Gafa St Paul’s (1630–1704) designed many of the finest examples of Maltese baroque, Cathedral, Mdina among them the cathedrals of Mdina and Gozo. Gozo Cathedral, Victoria Valletta’s Manoel Theatre is an architectural treasure, with a mag- nificent auditorium. Founded by the Portuguese Grand Master Antonio Manoel de Vilhena in 1731, it was used regularly by the Knights for their productions, and is one of the oldest working theatres in Europe. Great Mansions Malta is not only rich in ecclesiastical and military architecture, but has some splendid noble houses, several of which are open to the public. These include Casa Rocca Piccola in Valletta, Palazzo Faison in Mdina, and Villa Bologna in Attard, which provide a glimpse into the gilded world of the Maltese aristocracy. The grandest of them all is the largely 19th-century Palazzo Parisio in Naxxar, once a summer house belonging to Maltese-Sicilian gentry, and later transformed by a wealthy Maltese marquis, who added extravagant murals and a mirror-lined ballroom to create a mini-Versailles. Contemporary Style Malta has been blighted in the modern period by overdevelopment in many places, though building in its historical centres has remained strictly controlled. While the contemporary scene is not all bad news, every new major development has been dogged by controversy. One of Malta’s foremost architects is Richard England (www.richard england.com), whose work has included transforming Valletta’s St James’ Cavalier (originally designed by military engineer Laparelli de Cortona) into its contemporary guise as the Centre for Creativity. England is also responsible for the striking design of St Joseph’s Church in Manikata on the outskirts of Mellieħa, for which he used the girna (a small circular building farmers construct in the middle of fields) as inspiration. Another well-known contemporary local architect is the prolific Chris Briffa, who has been responsible for many architectural projects around Malta in recent years, and has won plaudits for his sympathetic approach to converting historic buildings. One of his architectural innovations has been to open up the traditional gallarija (Maltese balcony) in such a way that none of the view is obscured. He’s also converted Casa Ellul, THE MALTESE BALCONY The first recorded gallarija in Valletta was the long gallery that lines the Grand Master’s Palace, built in the late 17th century. When the city of Valletta was first built in the 16th century, open balconies were very popular, but this palatial enclosed gallery sparked a trend that everyone began to copy. At first people merely enclosed the top part of their existing balconies, but then they started to add lower panels to match, resulting in the unique Maltese style of balcony seen today.

168 5000 Y e a rs o f A rc h itec t u re C o n t em p o rar y S t y l e the Harbour Club, designed the stylish Ġgantija Temples visitor centre, 5000 Years of and is working on projects to develop a row of bars in Valletta’s Strait St. Architecture in There have been a remarkable number of architectural developments Malta, by Leonard in Malta in recent years, including the sleekly remodelled Valletta, Cot- Mahoney, tonera (Vittoriosa), Senglea and Qawra waterfronts; Tigne Point; the Mdina Ditch Gardens; the starfish-shaped Malta National Aquarium; provides compre- and the huge SmartCity development, an entire town to house Malta’s hensive coverage emerging tech industry. All of these projects have provoked debate. of Malta’s Without doubt the most high-profile and controversial project is that archaeological of Italian architect Renzo Piano in Valletta. Piano’s City Gate consists of history, from a breach in the city walls, replacing the 1960s development that previ- Neolithic temples ously framed the entrance. Just inside the gate and forming part of a to the auberges harmonious ensemble, his modernist Parliament Building supports huge of the Knights golden-stone blocks on a steel structure, and uses the latest ecological and beyond. architectural innovations to heat and cool the building. Alongside the Parliament Building is Piano’s Opera House, an open-air auditorium above the ruins of the former building, which had been destroyed in WWII and left as a ruin as a reminder of the past. Like the islands’ pre- historic builders, Piano has been inspired by the local stone, and the complex includes piazzas, staircases and walkways that have turned the area into a dynamic public space. The project has sparked masses of debate, about its expense and contemporary style, the position of the buildings, the open-air design of the auditorium, and the use of a foreign- born architect. Others consider it a masterpiece.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Survival Guide DIRECTORY A–Z. . . . 170 Toilets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Tourist Information. . . . . . 175 (Accommodation. . . . . . . 134) Travellers with Climate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Disabilities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Customs Regulations . . . . 170 Visas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Discount Cards. . . . . . . . . . 170 Electricity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 TRANSPORT. . . . . . . . 176 Embassies & Consulates. . 170 Gay & Lesbian GETTING THERE Travellers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 & AWAY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Insurance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Land. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Internet Access. . . . . . . . . . 172 Sea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Language Courses. . . . . . . 172 Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Legal Matters . . . . . . . . . . . 172 GETTING AROUND. . . . . . . . 178 Money. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Bicycle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Opening Hours. . . . . . . . . . 173 Bus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Photography. . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Car & Motorcycle. . . . . . . . 179 Post. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Ferry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Safe Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Taxi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Time. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 LANGUAGE . . . . . . . . 182

170 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Directory A–Z Climate Rainfall inches/mm ¨¨The National Student 4.7/120 Travel Service (NSTS; Valletta 3.5/90 %2558 8000; www.nsts.org; 2.4/60 220 Triq San Pawl, Valletta) can °C/°F Temp 1.2/30 provide information about 30/86 where you can get student reductions. Admission 25/77 to state-run museums is discounted for card-carrying 20/68 students. 15/59 0/50 MAM J 0 Electricity JF J ASOND 240V/50Hz Customs Valletta costs €10, the Ħaġar Regulations Qim & Mnajdra Temples cost Embassies & €10, and most other sites cost Consulates There are no restrictions if €5 or €6. you’re travelling from anoth- Full lists of Maltese embas- er EU country, though you’re The pass offers 30 days sies abroad and foreign em- likely to be questioned if of free admission to most bassies in Malta can be found amounts seem excessive. If Heritage Malta sights (the at www.foreign.gov.mt. you’re entering Malta from Hypogeum is an exception; outside the EU, the duty-free see www.heritagemalta.org allowance per person is 1L of for a full list). An adult/child spirits, 4L of wine, and 200 pass costs €50/25, while a cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or family ticket (two adults and 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco. two children) is an even bet- Duty will be charged on any ter bargain at €110. gifts over €430 that are in- tended for local residents. Other discounts: ¨¨Malta Pass (maltapass. Discount Cards com.mt; 1/2/3 days €24.95/39.95/49.95) allows If you’re planning to visit more admission to over 40 than a few of Malta and Gozo’s attractions, plus a harbour cultural treasures, it’s a good cruise and open-bus tour. idea to purchase a multisite Buy online. pass from Heritage Malta, ¨¨People over 60 which covers 21 Heritage Mal- years are entitled to ta sites and the Malta National discounted admission to Aquarium. Admission fees all government-owned can mount up, considering museums. that a single adult ticket to the ¨¨A valid ISIC card (www.isic. Armoury and State Rooms in org) or European Youth Card (www.eyca.org) will get you discounts.

171 EATING: by the state. However, Mal- Floriana, Gżira, Qormi, Paola, Directory A–Z GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS PRICE RANGES ta is a conservative, very Cospicua, Mosta, Rabat and Catholic country and public on Gozo) as well as some The following price affection (straight or gay) is pharmacies. English is spoken ranges refer to a stand- generally frowned upon. Still, at all pharmacies, hospitals ard main course. while Malta is not a very ‘out’ and health centres. ¨¨€ less than €10 destination, it is gay-friendly. ¨¨€€ €11–20 For more information see Medical Insurance ¨¨€€€ more than €20 www.gozoandmalta.com/gay and www.gaytravel.com/gay- Citizens of the EU, Iceland, Australian High Com- guides/malta. Liechtenstein, Norway and mission (%2133 8201; Switzerland receive free or www.malta.embassy.gov. Malta Gay Rights Move- reduced-cost state-provided au; Villa Fiorentina, Rampa ment (www.maltagayrights. health care with the European Ta’Xbiex, Ta’Xbiex) org) staged its first Gay Pride Health Insurance Card (EHIC) Canadian Consulate march in Valletta in July 2004, for medical treatment that (%2552 3233; www.canada and the marches have been becomes necessary while international.gc.ca; 103 Triq held annually ever since. in Malta. The EHIC will not L-Arcisqof; h8.30am-1.30pm Although the march and sur- provide cover for non- Mon-Fri) rounding festivities are tiny in emergencies or emergency French Embassy (%2248 comparison to the large gath- repatriation home. Each fam- 0600; www.ambafrance-mt.org; erings elsewhere in Europe, ily member will need a sep- 130 Triq Melita, Valletta) they’re a chance for Malta’s arate card. The EHIC is free; German Embassy (%2260 LGBT community to gather, full details are online at www. 4000; www.valletta.diplo.de; celebrate diversity and push ehic.org.uk. Entrance B, 1st fl, Il-Piazzetta, for an end to discrimination. Triq it-Torri, Sliema) Malta has reciprocal health Irish Embassy (%2133 4744; Health agreements with Australia www.embassyofireland.org. and the UK. Australians are mt; Whitehall Mansions, Ix-Xatt Availability of eligible for subsidised health Ta’Xbiex, Ta’Xbiex) Health Care in Malta care for up to six months Italian Embassy (%2123 from their date of arrival in 3157; www.amblavalletta.esteri. High-standard health and Malta; UK residents for up it; 5 Triq Vilhena, Floriana) dental care is readily avail- to 30 days. Details of these Netherlands Embassy able in Malta, and for minor arrangements and various (%2131 3980; netherlands. illnesses pharmacists can health services can be found visahq.com/embassy/Malta; give valuable advice and sell on the website of the Maltese Whitehall Mansions, Ix-Xatt over-the-counter medication. Ministry of Health (http:// Ta’Xbiex, Ta’Xbiex) They can also advise when health.gov.mt). UK High Commission more specialised help is (%2323 0000; www.gov.uk; required and point you in the If you need health insur- Whitehall Mansions, Ix-Xatt right direction. ance, strongly consider a Ta’Xbiex, Ta’Xbiex) policy covering the worst US Embassy (%2561 4000; There are pharmacies in possible scenario, such as an http://valletta.usembassy.gov; most towns; these are gen- accident requiring an emer- Ta’Qali, Attard) erally open from 9am to 1pm gency flight home. and 4pm to 7pm Monday to Gay & Lesbian Saturday. On Sundays and Insurance Travellers public holidays they open by roster in the morning – the A travel insurance policy to Homosexual sex was legal- local Sunday newspapers cover theft, loss and med- ised in Malta in 1973. In 2014 print details of the roster, and ical problems is always a the government passed a it can be found online at www. good idea. Worldwide travel bill approving same-sex civil ehealth.gov.mt. insurance is available at www. unions and gay adoption. lonelyplanet.com/travel- Gay marriages contracted Malta’s public general hos- insurance. You can buy, abroad are also recognised pital is Mater Dei Hospital extend and claim online any- (%2545 0000, emergency 112; time – even if you’re already www.ehealth.gov.mt; Tal-Qroqq), on the road. 2km southwest of Sliema and accessible by bus 75 from Some insurance policies Valletta. Gozo’s smaller Gen- specifically exclude ‘dan- eral Hospital (%2156 1600; gerous activities’, which can Triq l-Arċisqof Pietru Pace) may include scuba-diving. Note also be of use. General practi- that policies don’t usually tioner service is available at a cover dental work, only pain network of health centres (at relief. Check the small print before signing up.

D i rec to ry A–Z I nternet A c c ess172 PRACTICALITIES Newspapers & Magazines ¨¨The Times of Malta (www.timesofmalta.com) Good mix of local, European and world news; English-language daily. ¨¨The Independent (www.independent.com.mt) Coverage of domestic social issues; English-language daily. ¨¨Malta Today (www.maltatoday.com.mt/en/home) Local and international news. Radio & TV ¨¨More than 20 local radio stations broadcast, mostly in Malti but occasionally in English. ¨¨TVM is the state-run TV channel. ¨¨Most of the main Italian TV stations, such as RAI-1, RAI-2 and RAI-3 can be received in Malta. ¨¨Satellite and cable TV are widely available in hotels and bars. Weights & Measures ¨¨Metric system, like elsewhere in Europe. The British legacy persists in the use of pint glasses in some pubs. Smoking ¨¨Banned in any enclosed private or public premises open to the public except in designated smoking rooms. ¨¨People can smoke freely outside. You may prefer to have an adjust the current in Europe If you are arrested or de- insurance policy that pays (240V) to one your electronic tained by the police you have doctors or hospitals directly device can handle. You do not the right to be informed, in rather than you having to pay usually need these for laptop a language that you under- on the spot and claim later. If computers and digital camera stand, of the reasons for your you have to claim later, make battery chargers. arrest or detention, and if sure you keep all documenta- the police do not release you tion. Some policies ask you to Language Courses they must bring you before call (reverse charges) a centre a court within 48 hours. You in your home country, where The Maltese Islands are also have the right to inform an immediate assessment of renowned as an enjoyable your consulate and to speak your problem is made. place to study English, to a lawyer. and young people flock Internet Access to the more than 40 lan- For an emergency re- guage schools across the quiring help from the police Malta has extensive wi-fi cov- islands. Schools are mainly (pulizija in Malti), call %112. erage – most towns and even clustered in Valletta, St Gozo Police Headquarters some of the sleepiest villages Julian’s and Paceville. For (%2156 2040; Triq ir-Repubblika, have a wi-fi hotspot in their a comprehensive list, see Victoria) Gozo’s main police main square. Many establish- www.visitmalta.com. station is located near the corner ments, including hotels, cafes, of Triq ir-Repubblika and Triq bars and restaurants, also Legal Matters Putirjal. offer wi-fi. The wi-fi at most Malta Police Headquar- guesthouses, hostels and All towns and most villages ters (%2123 6719) hotels is free; very occasion- have their own police sta- ally there may be a charge of tion; the smaller ones are Money around €3 per hour. Signals staffed by a single officer are of varying quality. and often marked by a clas- Malta abandoned the Maltese sic British-style blue lamp. lira and adopted the euro If you’re visiting from (€) on 1 January 2008. To outside Europe, you may prevent retailers from round- need a voltage converter to ing up prices, the rate of

173 exchange was fixed at Lm1 to maritime services, air, sea 2pm, or even slightly longer D i rec to ry A–Z O pening H o u rs €2.33, which is why you’ll still and public transport are on Friday) sometimes see euro prices in exempt from VAT. ¨¨8.30am to around noon on fractions or multiples of 2.33. Saturday Visitors to Malta can ¨¨From 8am mid-June to The reverse sides of Mal- reclaim VAT on their pur- September tese coins feature a uniquely chases provided they are Maltese design (a Maltese residents outside the EU, and Museums cross, for example), but are will be taking the goods out- legal tender in all countries in side the EU when they depart ¨¨9am to 5pm daily (last the Eurozone. from Malta. Repayment of entry at 4.30pm) VAT applies only on single ¨¨Closed 24, 25 and 31 ATMs items valued at not less than December, 1 January and €55 and bought from a single Good Friday There are plentiful ATMs at registered outlet as shown Malta International Airport, on the receipt, and where the Pharmacies Valletta’s waterfront and in total value of all items is not all the main towns in Malta, under €315. If you wish to get ¨¨9am to 1pm and 4pm to where you can withdraw a VAT refund, you fill out an 7pm Monday to Saturday euros using a credit or debit application form, available at ¨¨Duty pharmacies that card and PIN. the custom exit points at the open late and on Sunday or airport or sea port. Previous- public holidays are listed in ATM withdrawals may ly there was a lengthy wait local newspapers incur a transaction charge of to receive the refund, but around 2.75% and an ATM the government took action Restaurants charge of around 1.5% to 2% to address this in 2015, so it of the amount withdrawn – may be that you receive your ¨¨Lunch: noon to 3pm, check with your bank before refund before leaving the dinner: 7pm to 11pm departing. You may also need country. ¨¨Some restaurants close for to inform your bank before three or four weeks in August you travel, to avoid your card Tipping & Bargaining being blocked. Shops ¨¨Tipping etiquette is like Cash on mainland Europe (ie ¨¨9am to 1pm and 4pm to tipping is not expected, but 7pm Monday to Saturday Cash can be changed at appreciated). In restaurants ¨¨In tourist areas in summer hotels, banks, exchange where no service charge is they are often open all day bureaux and some tourist included in the bill, leave 10% ¨¨Most shops are closed on shops. There are also 24- for good service. Baggage Sunday and public holidays hour exchange machines porters should get about €1 at banks in the main tourist per piece of luggage, car- Photography towns, including Valletta, park attendants around €1. Sliema and Buġibba, where Taxi drivers don’t expect a Memory cards and cam- you can feed in foreign bank- tip, but it’s nice to round up a era equipment are easily notes and get euros back. fare in order to leave a small obtained at photographic tip (up to 10%) if warranted. shops in all the main towns. You’ll need to carry cash ¨¨You may bargain for because many smaller res- handicrafts at stalls or For tips on taking the taurants and hotels don’t markets, but shops have perfect holiday snaps, look accept cards. fixed prices. out for Lonely Planet’s Travel ¨¨You can often angle for Photography book. Credit Cards lower prices from hotels and car-hire agencies in the Post Visa, MasterCard and Amex off season (October to mid- credit cards and charge June) and stays/rentals of a Malta Post (www.maltapost. cards are widely accepted in week or more will often get a com) operates a reliable larger hotels, restaurants and 10% discount. postal service. Post office shops, though smaller places branches are found in most only deal in cash. Travel and Opening Hours towns and villages (in some car-hire agencies accept towns the local newsagent/ cards. Banks souvenir shop acts as a branch agent). Taxes & Refunds ¨¨8.30am to 12.30pm Monday to Friday (some Local postage costs €0.26 VAT (value-added tax) was banks will stay open until up to 50g; a 20g letter or reintroduced to Malta in postcard sent airmail to the 1999, with two rates: accom- UK or Europe costs €0.59, modation is charged at 5% (and is usually included in the rates quoted) and the rate for other items is 18%. Food, medicine, education,

174 D i rec to ry A–Z S afe T ravel drivers are doing, even if at many stores and kiosks to the USA €0.51 and to it’s your right of way (never throughout Malta. Australia €0.63. Stamps are assume they will stop for frequently available from you!) A sat-nav will also Phone Codes hotels and souvenir shops as enormously reduce the well as from post offices. stress of driving, particularly The international direct di- as signposting can be erratic alling code is %00, followed Safe Travel off the main routes. by the relevant country code and then the number. To call Swimming Theft & Violence Malta from abroad, dial the international access code, Malta and Gozo’s waters are Malta has a low rate of %356 (the country code for not really tidal, and when violent crime, and crimes Malta) and then the number. the weather is calm it’s against visitors are a rarity. usually completely safe to Incidents involving pickpock- There are no area codes swim. However, the Maltese ets and purse-snatchers are in Malta; all Maltese phone often repeat the saying, ‘The uncommon, but in past years numbers are eight-digit sea has a soft belly, but a there have been increasing numbers. hard head’, a warning to be reports of thieves breaking wary of the sea around the into cars parked in quiet Public Phones & islands because of its pow- areas including Marfa and Phonecards erful undercurrents in windy Delimara Point. Lock your car weather. Locals advise never and don’t leave anything of Public telephones are to swim in rough sea. value in it. widely available, and most are card-operated (there Major beaches, such as There have been occa- are also coin-operated Golden Bay on Malta and sional incidents of drunken phones, but these are not Ramla Bay on Gozo, have violence in Paceville late at as common). You can buy lifeguards patrolling and a night; exercise caution in phonecards at many kiosks, flag system operating from this area. post offices and souvenir June to September; take shops. Go Easyline cards note of the flags. If there’s no Telephone (www.go.com.mt) can be flag system operating and if used from any line (includ- you’re in doubt, ask a local Mobile Phones ing payphones, mobiles and about whether it’s safe and even from hotels) and can where to swim. There are 130 mobile be used in a range of over- phones per 100 population seas destinations. They are Hunting in Malta, so not only are available in denominations mobiles widespread, but of €5, €10 and €20. If you go walking in the many locals have more than countryside, be aware of the one number. Mobile-phone Local calls using a Go common pastime of shooting numbers begin with either Easyline card cost €0.05 and trapping birds – the little %79 or %99. Malta uses per minute to landlines, and stone shacks that pepper the the GSM900 mobile phone €0.25 per minute to mobiles, clifftops are shooters’ hides. network which is compati- and you can also make calls You will hear the popping of ble with the rest of Europe, overseas. shotguns before you see the Australia and New Zealand, shooters. There are usually but not with the USA and Time two short hunting seasons, in Canada’s GSM1900. If you spring and autumn. have a GSM phone, check Malta is in the same time with your service provider zone as most of Western Road Conditions & about using it in Malta and Europe: one hour ahead of Driving beware of calls being routed GMT/UTC on standard time, internationally (expensive and two hours ahead from Much of the road network for a ‘local’ call). the last Sunday in March to in Malta is badly in need of the last Sunday in October repair, which means that You may consider buying (the daylight saving period). driving is often an uncom- a Maltese SIM card, which fortably bumpy experience. gives you a Maltese mobile Toilets Rules of the road are rarely number. (Your mobile may be observed, which adds to the locked to the local network Malta is well equipped with stress of driving in unfamiliar in your home country, so public toilets, often at the territory, especially during ask your home network for entrance to a public garden rush-hour conditions around advice before going abroad.) or near the village square. Sliema and St Julian’s. Prepaid vouchers for top- They are usually clean and ping up credit are available in good order. If there is an Take special care on attendant, it is good manners roundabouts and always wait to see what other

175 to leave a tip of a few cents in however, including Fort St to travel freely around the Directory A–Z TOURIST INFORMATION a dish by the door. Elmo and the National War member states of the EU, Museum, the Grand Master’s and settle anywhere within Tourist Palace, the Malta Experience its territory. Information and the National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta. Malta is part of the Schen- Local Tourist Offices gen area. Citizens from A good number of the some non-EU countries are As well as the useful and more expensive hotels have required to hold a visa when comprehensive Malta Tour- wheelchair access and travelling to the Schengen ism site (www.visitmalta.com), some have rooms specially area. Generally, a short-stay there are tourist information designed for guests with visa issued by one of the offices in Valletta, Mdina, disabilities. Sliema, with its Schengen states entitles its Buġibba, at Malta Interna- long promenade, is a good holder to travel throughout tional Airport, and in Victoria place to be based. The Malta the 25 Schengen states for and at the Ferry Terminal in and Gozo bus services have up to three months within a Mġarr on Gozo. wheelchair-accessible buses. six-month period. Visas for visits exceeding that period Tourist Offices The Nautic Team (%2155 are at the discretion of the Abroad 8507; www.nauticteam.com; Malta authorities. Citizens Triq il-Vulcan) on Gozo are of Australia, Canada, Israel, The Malta Tourism Authority equipped for divers with Japan, New Zealand and the has overseas representation disabilities, offering courses US can stay for up to three that can help with enquiries and equipment hire. months without a visa; other from potential holiday- nationalities can check their makers. The Malta Tourism Author- visa requirements on www. Germany (%069-247503135; ity (www.visitmalta.com) can foreign.gov.mt (click on the www.visitmalta.com/de; provide information on hotels Services/Travelling to Malta Fremdenverkehrsamt Malta, and sights that are equipped link). Schillerstrasse 30-40, D-60313 for wheelchair users. Frankfurt-am-Main) If you wish to stay for UK (%020-8877 6990; office. The National Commis- more than 90 days, you will [email protected]; Malta sion for Persons with Dis- have to apply for a Tempo- Tourist Office, Unit C, Park abilities (Centru Hidma Socja- rary Residence Permit via House, 14 Northfields, London li; %2278 8555; www.knpd.org; the Department for Citizen- SW18 1DD) Triq Braille, Santa Venera) can ship and Expatriates Affairs provide information on facili- (eresidence.mhas@gov. Travellers with ties and access for travellers mt). You will need two pho- Disabilities with a disability in Malta. tographs, a letter regarding your reasons for staying (an Maltese government policy is Lonely Planet has a Travel English-language course, em- to improve access for people for All community on Goog- ployment etc), a completed with disabilities, but many le+, where you can find out application form, evidence of Malta’s historic places – and share information about of your means of support, notably the steep, stepped accessible travel, as well as and documents showing streets of Valletta – remain the Thorntree community your health insurance. More difficult, if not impossible, at www.lonelyplanet.com/ information is available at to negotiate for those with thorntree/forums/travellers- www.mfa.gov.mt and http:// restricted mobility. Sev- with-disabilities. identitymalta.com/citizen- eral sights are accessible, ships-expatriates. Visas Visit Lonely Planet’s web- Everyone is required to have site for up-to-date visa infor- a valid passport (or ID card mation: www.lonelyplanet. for EU citizens) to enter Mal- ta. EU citizens are entitled

176 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Transport GETTING THERE national airline is Air Malta the distance is around & AWAY (KM; %2166 2211; www.air 2200km. malta.com), a small airline Air with a good safety record. Car drivers and motorbike riders will need the vehicle’s Malta is well connected to Land registration papers, a Green Europe and North Africa, but Card, a nationality plate and there are no direct flights into You can travel by bus from their domestic licence. Con- Malta from places further most parts of Europe to a tact your local automobile afield. If you’re flying from port in Italy and catch a ferry association for details about elsewhere, it’s best to travel from there to Malta. Euro- necessary documentation. to a major European hub, lines (www.eurolines.com) is such as London, Amsterdam a consortium of coach com- Sea or Brussels, then join a direct panies that operates across connecting flight to Malta. Europe, with offices in all Ferry major European cities. Airports & Airlines Malta has regular sea links With your own vehicle, you with Sicily (Pozzallo and All flights arrive and depart can drive to northern Italy Catania), central Italy (Civ- from Malta International and take a car ferry from itavecchia) and northern Airport (MLA; %2124 9600; Genoa, or drive to southern Italy (Genoa). Ferries dock at www.maltairport.com; Luga), Italy and take a car ferry from the Sea Passenger Terminal 8km south of Valletta. The Salerno or from Pozzallo or beside the Valletta Water- airport has good facilities, Catania (Sicily) to Malta. front in Floriana, underneath including ATMs and currency From northern Europe the the southeast bastions of exchange, internet access, a fastest road route is via the Valletta. tourist office (open daily), left Simplon Pass to Milan, from luggage, and regular, inex- which Italy’s main highway, Virtu Ferries (%2206 pensive bus connections to the Autostrada del Sole, 9022; www.virtuferries.com) Malta’s major towns and to stretches all the way to Reg- offers the shortest, fastest the Gozo ferry. The Maltese gio di Calabria. From London Malta–Sicily crossing with its catamaran service (car- rying cars and passengers) CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on planes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfo- lios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

177 to/from Pozzallo, with bus EXCURSIONS TO SICILY Transport Tours transfers to Catania (two hours). Virtu Ferries (%2206 9022; www.virtuferries.com) runs 90-minute passenger catamaran services to Pozzallo The Pozzallo–Malta that enable travellers to make a day trip to the Italian crossing takes 1½ hours and island of Sicily. You take the boat at 6.30am and return operates year-round, with on the 9.30pm boat; the itinerary takes in Mt Etna and daily sailings from June to the town of Taormina; Syracuse, the Marina di Ragusa August, dropping to four and Modica; or Mt Etna and Modica (adult/child four to or five days a week in Sep- 14 years €124/92). tember, weather permitting. The return passenger fare in It also runs the ‘Godfather Excursion’ to Taormina high/low season is €150/113 and Savoca, where some scenes from the Coppola films (day return €136/85). were shot (€136; children are free with two adults). Oth- er themed excursions include a culinary tour and quad Tickets for children under bike adventure. four years are free but there is a charge of €10 for local Prices include taxes but exclude lunch; transfers in transport where applicable; Malta cost €10. You can book a trip online or through children aged four to 14 years most hotels and travel agents in Malta. pay around 50% of the adult fares. Malta’s popularity with the festa celebrations. Day trips yachting fraternity means to Gozo and Comino are Public transport links that it is possible to make also common. Tours can from the ferry terminal at your way there as unpaid be arranged through most Valletta’s waterfront have crew. Yachts tend to leave hotels and travel agents. vastly improved with the new Gibraltar, southern Spain and Upper Barrakka Lift, which the Balearics in April and May Captain Morgan Cruises connects the waterfront with to head towards the popular (%2346 3333; www.captain Upper Barrakka Gardens cruising grounds of the Greek morgan.com.mt; adult/child in Valletta. However, if you Islands and the Turkish coast. harbour cruise €16/13, round have luggage you’ll probably It’s possible to just turn up at Malta €35/free, Blue Lagoon prefer to catch a taxi to your a marina and ask if there are €25/free, underwater safari destination. Set fees are any yachts looking for crew, €17/11; jeep safari Malta established – head to the but there are also agencies €55/45, Gozo €65/55) Offers a information booth at Valletta that bring together yacht wide range of cruises, including Waterfront (to Valletta is €10, owners and prospective crew the Grand Harbour, round Malta, to Sliema/St Julian’s €18). (for a fee). One such agency and day trips to the Blue Lagoon. is UK-based Crewseekers These trips depart from the ferry Yacht (%0238-115 9207; www.crew- area in Sliema; some include seekers.net), which charges transfers to/from your accom- Malta’s excellent harbour £70/95 for a six-/12-month modation in the price. On some and its strategic location at membership. under 12s go free when with two the hub of the Mediterranean adults. There are also ‘underwa- has led to its development as Tours ter safari’ cruises from Buġibba, a major yachting centre. on boats with underwater There are loads of companies viewing areas. There are berths for 720 offering tours around the yachts (up to 22m length islands, by boat/bus/4WD or It also offers popular overall) in the Msida and a combination of the three. chauffeur-driven jeep safaris to Ta’ Xbiex marinas (www. Prices vary (as does what’s remote parts of Malta and Gozo. marinamalta.com) near included), so shop around. If Valletta; Mġarr Marina (www. you’re pushed for time these CitySightseeing Malta gozomarina.net) on Gozo trips can be a good way to (%2346 7777; www.citysight has space for more than 200 see the highlights, but itin- seeing.com.mt; adult/child boats. There are also marinas eraries can be rushed, with €17/9; hhalf-hourly 9am-3pm at the Portomaso complex little free time. Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) Oper- (www.portomasomarina. ates tours of Malta in open-top com) in St Julian’s, and the Tours include half-day buses: hop on and off any of Grand Harbour Marina (www. tours to the Blue Grotto or the buses at any of the 20 or so cnmarinas.com/en/marinas/ Valletta’s Sunday market; stops. You can board and buy a grand-harbour-marina) in full-day trips to the Three ticket at any stop. Vittoriosa. Cities, Mosta and Mdina; Hera Cruises (%2133 0583; or evening trips to take in www.heracruises.com) Various For more information on boat tours leaving from Sliema these marinas and details of the logistics and formalities of sailing to Malta, contact Transport Malta (%2122 2203; www.transport.gov.mt).

Transport Bicycle178 GETTING Bus waterfront, including all-day AROUND cruises (adult/child €58/30), The bone-shaking, charm- and trips to Comino and the Blue Bicycle ing, brightly painted vintage Lagoon (€30/20) or Comino buses that were so char- and Gozo (€50/30, includes Cycling on Maltese roads acteristic of Malta were lunch) in a regular boat, or to the can be nerve-wracking – the taken out of service in 2011, Blue Lagoon in a Turkish gulet roads are often narrow and replaced by boring-looking (old-style sailing boat; €58/30, potholed, there’s lots of but more efficient modern includes lunch). traffic, and drivers show little buses, which have disabled Luzzu Cruises (www. consideration for cyclists. access. These are operated luzzucruises.com; 2-harbour However, things are consid- by Malta Public Transport cruise adult/child €16/13, erably better on the back (www.publictransport.com.mt), Gozo, Comino & Blue Lagoon roads and also on Gozo – the which is presently run by the €40/20, Comino, Blue Lagoon roads can still be rough, but Spanish company Autobuses & caves €20/15, boat & jeep there’s far less traffic, and Urbanos de León. Gozo €55/40) A range of trips, more and more visitors are including a two-harbour cruise opting to cycle around the Many bus routes on Malta and day-long trips taking in island rather than rely on the originate from the Valletta Gozo, Comino and the Blue buses. Bus Station and radiate to Lagoon. Also arranges boat all parts of the island, but trips to Marsaxlokk (adult/child You can rent bikes from there are also many routes €17.50/12.50) for the Sunday Magri Cycles & Spares that bypass the capital; bus market. (%2141 4399; www.magri timings range from every Malta Sightseeing (%2169 cycles.com; 135 Triq il-Kungress 10 minutes to hourly for 4967; www.maltasightseeing. Ewkaristiku, Mosta, Malta) and less-visited places. On Gozo com; per day adult/child Victoria Garage (%2155 the bus system is much more €20/13; hnorth & south tours 6414; www.victoriagaragegozo. efficient than previously, depart Sliema 9am-3pm Mon- com; Triq Putirjal, Victoria, Gozo; though some places are only Sat & 9am-2pm Sun & public bicycle per day from €5, car per served by an hourly bus. holidays; Gozo tours depart day €21). You can rent electric Mġarr Harbour 9.30am-3pm) bikes from Eco Bikes (www. Tickets Hop-on, hop-off tours around bikerentalmalta.com; bike/e- north (blue tour) or south (red bike per day €10/20). You can buy single tickets as tour) Malta, or around Gozo. you board the bus or from ticket machines, which are found near numerous bus stops. Blocks of tickets and BIG YELLOW BUSES Malta’s old buses were a tourist attraction in themselves, and it’s a shame in terms of local colour and photo opportunities that they’re no longer rattling around the islands’ potholed roads at unsettling speeds. Run as independent businesses by their drivers, they were lovingly customised with handmade parts and decorations. They were known as xarabank, a derivation of charabanc (a carriage or an old-fashioned term for a motor coach). On the other hand, they probably also contributed to Malta being the most car-dense country in Europe. Quaintness of buses is not necessarily an endearing quality when you have to use them day to day, and the bus system is much more efficient nowadays. You will spot the occasional old bus on the road: the classic Bedfords, Thames, Leylands and AECs dating from the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, brightly painted in a livery of yellow, white and orange, have not completely disappeared. Numerous well-preserved vintage buses have been retained as tourist attractions, and now run sightseeing trips around the is- lands. Try Malta Sightseeing (%2169 4967; www.maltasightseeing.com; per day adult/child €20/13; hnorth & south tours depart Sliema 9am-3pm Mon-Sat & 9am-2pm Sun & public holi- days; Gozo tours depart Mġarr Harbour 9.30am-3pm), which offers a tour from Sliema around the Three Cities for €15/9 adult/child. A vintage bus also runs from Valletta’s waterfront up to Floriana. The Malta Buses by Michael Cassar and Joseph Bonnici is an illustrated history of the islands’ celebrated public transport.

179 seven-day passes must be Most buses run from Driving Licences Tr a nsp o rt Ca r & M o t o r c y c l e bought in advance from ticket around 5.30am to 11pm, and offices or Agenda bookshop frequency varies depending All EU member states’ driv- outlets. If you’re caught trav- on the popularity of the ing licences are fully recog- elling without a ticket, there’s route. In towns and villages nised throughout Europe. For a penalty charge of €10. the bus terminus is usually those with a non-EU licence, ¨¨€2/1.50 July to found on or near the parish an International Driving September/October to church square. Permit (IDP) is a useful ad- June single ticket (valid two junct, especially if your home hours): may be bought on Car & Motorcycle licence has no photo or is in a the bus language other than English. ¨¨€3 night fare (on night The Maltese love their cars. Your local automobile asso- buses): year-round At weekends (Sunday in par- ciation can issue an IDP, valid ¨¨Block of 12 tickets ticular) they take to the road for one year, for a small fee. €15: this is a multi-user en masse, visiting friends You must carry your home option, so if two people are and family or heading for the licence together with the IDP. travelling together, they beach or a favourite picnic can scan the ticket twice. A site. This means that there Fuel ticket is valid for two hours is often serious congestion from when it’s scanned. On on the roads around Valletta, The price of fuel is set by the night buses, you pay double Sliema and St Julian’s. Friday government and at the time (ie scan two tickets for one and Saturday night in Pace- of research was €1.35/1.28 journey). ville is one big traffic jam. a litre for unleaded/diesel. ¨¨Explorer seven-day ticket However, renting a car gives Petrol is dispensed by at- adult/child €21/15: valid you more flexibility, particu- tendants and garages are on both Malta and Gozo, larly to discover out-of-the- generally open from 7am to unlimited journeys, day or way beach coves. 7pm (6pm in winter) Monday night to Saturday; most are closed ¨¨Tallinja stored value card: Distance isn’t a problem on Sunday and public holi- for this you need to register – the longest distance on days – though a few are open at Valletta Bus Station or Malta is 27km and the widest from 8am to noon on a roster online two weeks in advance point is around 15km. On system. Larger stations have to allow for delivery. You have Gozo the longest distance is a self-service, cash-operated to provide an ID card number, about 14km and the widest pump (€5, €10 and €20 but this can be Maltese, a only 7km. notes accepted) for filling up foreign ID or your passport outside opening hours. number. You have also to Automobile give your Malta address, Associations Hire which may be the address of your hotel in Malta – the If you’re renting a car, you’ll Car rental rates in Malta are card will be delivered there. be provided with a telephone among the lowest in Europe. With the Tallinja card, a single number to contact in the If you hire a car on Malta you journey costs €0.75/0.25 event of mechanical difficul- can take it over to Gozo on adult/child. Night buses cost ties or breakdown. If you’re the ferry without a problem. €2.50. bringing your own vehicle, Rental rates on Gozo are it’s a good idea to take out lower (but with an extra Routes & Timetables European breakdown cover charge for taking the car to (offered in the UK by both Malta), but if you’re visiting At the time of research, some the RAC and the AA). For both islands the inconven- bus numbers and timetables roadside assistance in Malta, ience of hiring a car in both were about to change. To see contact RMF (%2124 2222; places would outweigh any up-to-date, full bus timeta- www.rmfmalta.com) or MTC benefits. Supply is limited bles and route maps, check (%2143 3333; www.mtctowing- on Gozo so for July and Au- online at www.publictrans- malta.com). gust you’ll need to book in port.com.mt. advance to be assured of a Bringing Your Own vehicle. There are six different Vehicle express services running Most of the car-hire com- between the airport and Tourists are permitted to use panies have representatives various parts of the island, their vehicles for a maximum at the airport, but rates including St Julian’s, Sliema of six months in any given vary so it’s worth shopping and Ċirkewwa. The X4, X5 year without the need to around. Make sure you and X7 run between Valletta apply for a permit. A motor know what is included in the and the airport, and take just vehicle entering a foreign quoted rate – many of the over 20 minutes. country must display a stick- local agencies quote very low er identifying its country of rates that do not include full registration. insurance against theft and collision damage.

Transport Ferry180 Parking Road signs and regu- Obviously rates will vary lations are pretty much Parking can be tricky in the the same as the rest of with season, length of rental Sliema-St Julian’s and Buġib- Europe, with one important period and the size and make ba-Qawra areas. While there difference – in Malta no-one of car (plus extras like air- are car parks available, it’s far seems to pay attention to con). Rates for the smallest more difficult to find parking any of the rules. Be prepared vehicles start from around in the high season. There’s for drivers overtaking on €25 a day (for rental of seven a large car park next to the the inside, ignoring traffic days or longer) in the high Malta National Aquarium lights, refusing to give way season. A child seat costs (from €2). In Valletta you can at junctions and hanging around €4 per day – but park within the city walls in on your rear bumper if they confirm whether it’s a booster the blue parking bays, but think you’re going too slowly. seat or full child seat. those delineated in green All rental cars have registra- are reserved for residents. If tion numbers ending in K, The age limit for rental you can’t find parking within so tourists can be spotted drivers is generally 21 to 70 the walls, you can use the easily. Vehicles coming from years, but drivers between 21 large MCP underground car your right are supposed to and 25 years may be asked park near the bus terminus, have right of way at round- to pay a supplement of up close to the Hotel Phoenicia, abouts, but don’t count on to €10 a day. You will need which is only a short walk vehicles on your left observ- a valid driving licence that from Valletta’s City Gate and ing this rule. you have held for at least sights. Parking in the MCP one year. Rental rates often costs €2.50 for up to two You should also be aware include free delivery and hours and €5 for over four that many of the roads are collection, especially in the hours. Alternatively, you can in a pitiful condition, with Valletta-Sliema-St Julian’s use the Park & Ride facility, cracks and potholes, and area. just south of Floriana, where there are very few road mark- parking costs €0.40 per day ings. In winter, minor roads Many accommodation and shuttle buses run to the are occasionally blocked providers offer car-rental City Gate in Valletta. Parking by wash-outs or collapsed arrangements – it pays to elsewhere costs €1 to €2 retaining walls after heavy ask when you’re making a per hour. rain. Signposting is variable booking. Most will drop off – some minor sights are easy and collect cars (usually for Local traffic police are to find, while major towns a small fee). As well as all the swift and merciless in the remain elusive. Often places major international compa- imposition of on-the-spot seem to be well signposted, nies, such as Avis, Budget fines. Most main towns, and then the signposts peter and Hertz, there are dozens tourist sights and beaches out. A sat-nav or a detailed of local car-hire agencies. have a car park, with an road map will help ease the Billy’s (%2152 3676; www. attendant dressed in a blue way. billyscarhire.com; 113 Triq Ġorġ shirt and cap and usually Borg Olivier, Mellieħa, Malta) wearing an official badge. The maximum allowable Mayjo Car Rentals (%2155 These attendants will expect blood-alcohol concentration 6678; www.mayjocarhire.com; a tip of around €1 upon your in drivers in Malta is 0.08%. Triq Fortunato Mizzi, Victoria, departure. Gozo; per day €28) A large Ferry range of cars at good rates. Road Rules & Wembleys (%2137 4141, 2137 Conditions To/from Valletta 4242; http://wembleys.com; 50 Triq San Ġorġ, St Julian’s, Malta) Unlike most of Europe, the Valletta Ferry Services Maltese drive on the left. (%2346 3862; www.valletta- Insurance Speed limits are 80km/h ferryservices.com) operate on highways and 50km/h in regular ferries between Car-hire companies offer col- urban areas, but are rarely Valletta’s Marsamxett har- lision damage waiver (CDW) observed. Wearing a seat belt bour and Sliema (single/ and/or theft damage protec- is compulsory for the driver return adult €1.50/2.80, child tion insurance at extra cost and front-seat passenger. €0.50/0.90; h7.15am-7.15pm (usually charged per day). Any accidents must be re- Oct-May, to 12.45am Jun-Sep), Be sure to read the fine print ported to the nearest police as well as from near Valletta and understand what you’re station (and to the rental Waterfront to Cospicua covered for, and what excess company if the car is hired); (Bormla) and on to Seng- charges you’ll be up for in the don’t move your vehicle until lea (L’Isla) in the Three case of an accident. the police arrive, otherwise Cities (single/return adult your insurance may be €1.50/2.80, child €0.50/0.90; If you are bringing your nullified. own car, check with your local insurance company before you leave to make sure you are covered.

181 hhalf-hourly 7am-7pm Oct- KARROZZIN Transport Taxi May, to midnight Jun-Sep). The karrozzin – a traditional horse-drawn carriage with Water taxis, run by A&S seats for four passengers – has been in use in Malta Water Taxis (%9812 9802; since 1856. Many of the carriages are treasured family www.maltesewatertaxis.com; possessions passed down through generations, and are Valletta–Three Cities/Sliema/ cared for with obsessive pride. St Julian’s €3/10/12, harbour cruise €30) and Malta Wa- You can catch a karrozzin at Valletta’s City Gate, ter Taxis (%9993 9443; Marsamxetto Ferry, Fort St Elmo, Valletta Waterfront and www.maltawatertaxis.com. Mdina’s Main Gate. There is an unfortunate tendency in mt; Valletta–Three Cities €3, some drivers to overcharge unwitting tourists. Haggle harbour cruise €10), also take with the driver and be sure to agree on a fare before people back and forth be- getting in. The fixed fare is €35 for 35 minutes. tween Valletta and the Three Cities, and Valletta and Taxi major hotels in the main Sliema, but it’s a question tourist resorts. Within Vallet- of luck whether you’ll find Official Maltese taxis are ta, Smart Cabs (%7741 4177; one, unless you call ahead white (usually Mercedes, with 3 people within city perimeter/ to book. a taxi sign on top; www.malt- to cruise-ship terminal €5/8) ataxi.net). To combat regular provide an electric-powered To/from Gozo & complaints of overcharging, taxi service for a flat fare of Comino taxi drivers must by law use €5/8 for three people inside/ the meter to determine the outside the city walls. Gozo Channel (%2155 fare (except from the airport 6114; www.gozochannel.com; and sea port, where there are As an alternative to the foot passenger day/night set fares). official Maltese white taxis, €4.65/4.05, child €1.15, car & unsigned black taxis are driver day/night €15.70/12.80) Details of the fixed fares owned by private companies operates the car ferry that from the airport are available and usually offer cheaper shuttles between Malta’s at the taxi desk in the arrivals set fares (similar to the UK’s Ċirkewwa and Gozo’s Mġarr hall, where you can pay in minicabs). To order a taxi, it’s every 45 minutes from 6am advance and hand a ticket best to ask your hotel recep- to around 6pm (and roughly to the driver. These were the tion for the name and num- every 1½ hours throughout fares at the time of research: ber of their preferred service. the night). If travelling by ¨¨Valletta/Floriana €15 There are several 24-hour vehicle you pay on your re- ¨¨Three Cities area €18 companies. turn leg, when leaving Mġarr ¨¨Mdina/Rabat €18 Belmont Garage (%2155 (Gozo), so there’s no need to ¨¨Sliema/St Julian’s area €20 6962; Nadur, Gozo) buy a ticket in Ċirkewwa on ¨¨Buġibba/St Paul’s Bay €25 Freephone Taxis (%8007 the way out. ¨¨Golden Bay area €25 3770, 2138 9575; St Julian’s, ¨¨Mellieħa €30 Malta) Gozo Channel also op- ¨¨Ċirkewwa €32 Wembley’s (%2137 4141, erates a cargo ferry from There are taxi ranks at City 2137 4242; St Julian’s, Malta) Sa Maison near Valletta to/ Gate and outside the Grand Reliable 24-hour radio taxi from Gozo (90 minutes; Master’s Palace in Valletta, service. Rates are generally usually twice weekly, on and at bus stations and cheaper than official taxi rates Tuesday and Thursday), (from St Julian’s to Valletta it’s which takes some foot €13, to the airport €18, to the passengers (€4.65), but Gozo ferry €28). you’ll have to call on the day to see if there is space available.

1 82 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Language Malti – the native language of Malta – is Goodbye. Saħħa. a member of the Semitic language group, which also includes Arabic, Hebrew and Yes. Iva. Amharic. It’s thought by some to be a direct descendant of the language spoken by the No. Le. Phoenicians, but most linguists consider it to be related to the Arabic dialects of western Please. Jekk jogħġbok. North Africa. Malti is the only Semitic lan- guage that is written in a Latin script. Thank you. Grazzi. Both Malti and English are official languages in Malta, and almost everyone is bilingual. Excuse me. Skużani. Travellers will have no trouble at all getting by in English at all times. This chapter provides a How are you? Kif inti? basic introduction to Malti. I’m fine, thank you. Tajjed, grazzi. Do you speak English? Titkellem bl-ingliż? What’s your name? X’ismek? My name is … Jisimni … PRONUNCIATION I love you. Inħobbok. Most letters of the Maltese alphabet are ACCOMMODATION pronounced as they are in English, with the following exceptions: Do you have any Għad fadlilkom rooms available? xi kmamar vojta? ċ as the ‘ch’ in ‘child’ Can you show Tista’ turini kamra? ġ soft, as the ‘j’ in ‘job’ me a room? Kemm hi? għ inaudible; lengthens the preceding or following vowel How much is it? h inaudible, as in ‘hour’ ħ as the ‘h’ in ‘hand’ I’d like a room … Nixtieq kamra … ij as the ‘ai’ in ‘aisle’ with en suite bil-kamra tal-banju j as the ‘y’ in ‘yellow’ with one bed b’sodda waħda q a glottal stop, which is similar to the with two beds b’żewġ sodod pause in the middle of ‘uh-oh’ x as the ‘sh’ in ‘shop’ SIGNS Entrance z as the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’ Exit ż soft, as in ‘zero’ Dħul Closed Ħrug Open BASICS Merħba. Magħluq Women Bonġu. Miftuħ Men Hello. Bonswa. Nisa Lane/Alley Good morning/day. Rġiel Toilet Good evening. Sqaq Avenue Twaletta Vjalq

183 NUMBERS xejn bank bank Language EMERGENCIES wieħed … embassy ambaxxata … 0 tnejn hotel hotel/il-lukanda 1 tlieta market suq 2 erbgħa pharmacy ispiżerija 3 ħamsa post office posta 4 sitta public telephone telefon pubbliku 5 sebgħa shop ħanut 6 tmienja 7 disgħa TIME, DATES & NUMBERS 8 għaxra 9 ħdax What’s the time? X’ħin hu? 10 tnax 11 tlettax morning fil-għodu 12 erbatax afternoon wara nofs in-nhar 13 ħmistax yesterday il-bieraħ 14 sittax today illum 15 sbatax tomorrow għada 16 tmintax 17 dsatax Monday it-tnejn 18 għoxrin Tuesday it-tlieta 19 tletin Wednesday l-erbgħa 20 erbgħin Thursday il-ħamis 30 ħamsin Friday il-gimgħa 40 sittin Saturday is-sibt 50 sebgħin Sunday il-ħadd 60 tmienin 70 disgħin January Jannar 80 mija February Frar 90 elf March Marzu 100 April April 1000 May Mejju June Ġunju EMERGENCIES July Lulju August Awissu Help! Ajjut! September Settembru Pulizija! October Ottubru Police! Qibgħad ghat-tabib! November Novembru Call a doctor! Ninsab mitluf. December Diċembru I’m lost. ambulance ambulans TRANSPORT & hospital sptar DIRECTIONS SHOPPING & SERVICES Nixtieq biljett. Meta jitlaq/jasal il-vapur? At what time does it Fix’ħin jiftaħ/jagħlaq? I’d like a ticket. open/close? Kemm? When does the boat Meta titlaq/jasal il-karoz How much? leave/arrive? za? When does the bus leave/arrive?

L ANGUAGE G L O S S A R Y184 Nixtieq nikri karozza/rota. kappillan – parish priest I’d like to hire a karrozzin – traditional horse-drawn carriage car/bicycle. Fejn hu …? kastell – castle Where is a/the …? Mur dritt. katidral – cathedral Go straight ahead. Dur fuq ix-xellug. kbira – big, main Turn left. Dur fuq il-lemin. knisja – church Turn right. kwartier – quarter, neighbourhood il-bogħod langue – a division of the Knights of St John, far il-viċin based on nationality near hallejt il-bagalji left luggage luzzu – fishing boat marsa – harbour GLOSSARY medina – fortified town, citadel mina – arch, gate AFM – Armed Forces of Malta misraħ – square auberge – the residence of an individual langue of mitħna – windmill the Knights of St John mużew – museum bajja – bay palazzo – Italian term for palace or mansion bastion – a defensive work with two faces and two parroċċa – parish flanks, projecting from the line of the rampart passeggiata – evening stroll (Italian term) belt – city pjazza – square bieb – gate plajja – beach, seashore cavalier – a defensive work inside the main forti- pont – bridge fication, rising above the level of the main rampart pulizija – police to give covering fire rabat – town outside the walls of a citadel ċimiterju – cemetery ramla – bay, beach curtain – a stretch of rampart linking two bastions, ras – point, headland with a parapet along the top razzett – farm, farmhouse daħla – creek sqaq – alley, lane dawret – bypass suq – market demi-bastion – a half-bastion with only one face sur – bastion and one flank taraġ – stairs, steps dgħajsa – a traditional oar-powered boat telgħa – hill festa – feast day torri – tower, castle fortiżża – fort triq – street, road foss – ditch trulli – cone-shaped buildings that echo the tradi- għajn – spring (of water) tional architecture of Puglia in Southern Italy għar – cave ġnien – garden vedette – a lookout point, watchtower Grand Master – the title typically given to the vjal – avenue head of an order of knights, including the Knights wied – valley of Malta xatt – wharf, marina kajjik – fishing boat

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 185 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Briffa, Giuseppe Bonanci Schembri, Sarah Wil- liams, and Remco Slik for local recommenda- Many thanks to the travellers who wrote tions and advice. Thanks to Simon Sciberras and to us with helpful hints, useful advice and Robert Magri for help with diving information, interesting anecdotes: and to Steve Zammit Briffa for help with nightlife Ailyn Garley, Anne Kent, Carl Boyer, David recommendations. Grateful thanks to Martin Betts,Jesmond Muscat, Judi Ewings, June Cahill, Morana and Jenciute Gabija at Malta Tourism, Lucy Connell, Maggie Gjessing, Monica Costoya, Neil and to Marcia Grima at Heritage Malta. Pearce, Peter Connors, Ron Wilcox, Sain Alizada, Sascha Kreuziger, Stefan Krista, Trevor Coultas ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS AUTHOR THANKS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Abigail Blasi World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Clas- sification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sci- Many thanks to Anna Tyler for commissioning ences, 11, 163344. me and her editorial knowhow, and to Helen Caruna Galizia, Julia Tomkins, Philip Manduca, Cover photograph: Valletta, Interpixels/ Denise Briffa, Lisa Grech, Patti Piazzi, Chris Shutterstock THIS BOOK Destination Editor Cartographer This 6th edition of Lonely Anna Tyler James Leversha Planet’s Malta & Gozo guide- Product Editors Cover Researcher book was researched and Penny Cordner, Vicky Smith, Campbell McKenzie written by Abigail Blasi. The Tracy Whitmey Thanks to Joel Cotterell, 5th edition was also written Senior Cartographer Grace Dobell, Ryan Evans, by Abigail Blasi and the 4th Anthony Phelan Larissa Frost, Andi Jones, edition by Neil Wilson. This Book Designer Anne Mason, Claire Murphy, guidebook was produced by Mazzy Prinsep Karyn Noble, Samantha the following people: Assisting Editors Russell-Tulip, Dianne Nigel Chin, Anne Mulvaney, Schallmeiner, Angela Tinson, Kirsten Rawlings Lauren Wellicome, Amanda Williamson

1 86 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A area codes 174 BirdLife Malta 164 cell phones 14, 174 art galleries, see museums birdwatching 30 Central Malta 40, 90-103, accommodation 134-46, see BirguFest 19 also individual locations & art galleries Birkirkara 102-3 92-3 costs 134-6 Malta Arts Festival 19 Blue Grotto 110 accommodation 90, farmhouse Mdina Contemporary Art Blue Hole 126, 10 accommodation 144 Blue Lagoon 11, 133, 11, 29 142-3 language 182-3 Biennale 19, 91 boat travel 81, 176-7, 180-1 climate 90 rental accommodation arts 163, see also crafts, food 90 135 traditional boats 108 highlights 92-3 music boat trips travel seasons 90 activities 22-31, 38 see also  ATMs 173 children, travel with 16, 36-8 individual activities audiovisual shows Buġibba 87 Valletta 55 Golden Bay 78 Christmas 19 air travel 176 Gozo 360° 118 Mġarr 121 churches & cathedrals amusement parks Malta 5D 44 Sliema 67 architecture 166 Malta Experience 52 books 148, 168 Basilica of St George 118 Buġibba Water Park 85 Mdina Experience 38 history 150, 152, 154, 155 Basilica of Ta’Pinu 124 Splash & Fun Park 89 Valletta Living History 46 Briffa, Chris 47, 167-8 Cathedral of the Sweethaven 82 Azure Window 126, 2, 9 budget 15, see also costs Anchor Bay 82 accommodation 134 Assumption 116 animals 23, 30, 88 B food 171 Chapel of San Dimitri 124 archaeological sites 16, Buġibba 85-9, 86 Chapel of the 110, 150, 165, see also babysitting 38 accommodation 141-2 temples Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq 89 bus travel 176, 178-9 Annunciation 110 cart ruts 99, 100, 101, bargaining 173 business hours 173 Church of Our Lady of Domus Romana 97 baroque architecture 166-7 Ġgantija Temples 128 bathrooms 174 C Lourdes 121, 2 Għar Dalam Cave & beaches 12, 16, 28 Church of Our Lady of car travel 176, 179-80, see Museum 108 Baia Beach Club 84 also driving tours Victory 79 Ħaġar Qim 12, 110-12, 111 Blue Lagoon 11, 133, driving licences 179 Church of St Helen 103 Hal Saflieni Hypogeum hire 179 Church of St Mary 103 11, 29 insurance 180 Church of St Paul’s 11, 64, 11 Daħlet Qorrot 132 road rules 180 Mnajdra 12, 110-12, 12 Għajn Tuffieħa Bay 78 Bonfire 85 Skorba temples 79 Ġnejna Bay 79 Caravaggio 51 Church of St Paul’s St Agatha’s Crypt & Golden Bay 78 Carnival 18 Mellieħa Bay 80 cart ruts 99, 100, 101 Shipwreck 51 Catacombs 95 Mġarr ix-Xini 122 Cassar, Gerolamo 167 Church of St Saviour 103 St Paul’s Catacombs 95 Ramla Bay 132 catacombs 95 Church of Sts Peter & Ta’Ħaġrat Temple 79 San Blas Bay 132 cathedrals, see churches & Tarxien Temples 64 Selmun (Imgiebah) Paul 130 architecture 16, 17, 47, 165-8 cathedrals Church of the Visitation baroque 166-7 Bay 84 caves books 168 Sliema Beach 67 124 churches 166 St George’s Bay 70 Calypso’s Cave 130 Egg Church 79 contemporary 167-8 St Thomas Bay 109 Għar Dalam Cave & Grotto of the Madonna 80 military 166 Wied il-Għasri 127 Mosta Dome 100 prehistoric 165 beer 34 Museum 108 Parish Church of Our Farsons Great Beer Għar Ħasan Cave 108 Map Pages 000 Xerri’s Grotto & Ninu’s Lady 102 Photo Pages 000 Festival 19 Parish Church of St bicycle travel 178 Cave 129 bird hunting 164 Catherine 109 St John’s Co-Cathedral 12, 45-7, 45, 13 St Paul’s Cathedral 91 St Paul’s Church & the Grotto of St Paul 97

187 cinemas Mellieħa Bay 81 St Thomas’ Tower 109 immigration 148-9 I N D E X C - M Bugibba 89 Sliema 67 Wignacourt Tower 85 independence 159-60 St Julian’s 74 St Julian’s & Paceville 71 fossils 84 Inland Sea 126 Valletta 57 drinks 34-5 Fungus Rock 125 insurance Victoria 118 driving, see car travel, driving tours G car 180 Clapham Junction 100 driving licences 179 health 171-2 climate 14, 18-19, 170, see driving tours gardens, see parks & travel 171 Central Malta 99, 99 gardens internet access 172 also individual regions Marfa Peninsula 83, 83 internet resources 15, Comino 40, 113, 132-3, Northern Gozo 131, 131 gay travellers 171 170-5 Dwejra 8, 125-6, 9 Ġgantija Temples 128 itineraries 20-1, 20, 21, 114-5 Għajn Tuffieħa 78-9 see also driving tours, accommodation 146 E għana 163 walking tours climate 113 Għanafest 19 highlights 114-15 Easter Sunday 18 Għar Lapsi 112, 12 K travel seasons 113 economy 148-9 Għarb 124-5 consulates 170 Egg Church 79 glass-blowing 163 karrozzin 181 contemporary architecture electricity 170 Golden Bay 78-9 kayaking 30 167-8 embassies 170 kiteboarding 30 Cospicua 59-62 emergencies 15 accommodation 140-1 Knights of St John 152-6 accommodation 138 Good Friday 18 costs 173 language 183 Gozitan farmhouses 144 L accommodation 134-6 England, Richard 167 Gozo 40, 113-33, 114-15 daily budget 15 environmental issues 149 la Valette, Jean Parisot discount cards 170 events 18-19 accommodation 113, de 154 food 33 exchange rates 15 143-6 courses lace-making 163 cooking 34 F climate 113 language 14, 162, 182-4 diving & snorkelling food 113 farmhouse highlights 114-15 courses 172 23-4 accommodation 144 travel seasons 113 Lear, Edward 113 language 172 travel to/from 116 legal matters 172 crafts 163 Farsons Great Beer travel within 116 lesbian travellers 171 Ta’Dbieġi Crafts Village Festival 19 Grand Master’s Palace local produce 33-5 47, 50 125 fenkata 34 Great Siege of Malta M Ta’Qali Crafts Village 98 ferry travel 81, 176, 180-1 (1565) 153 credit cards 173 festivals 18-19 guesthouses 135 magazines 172 culture 161-3 Filfla 112 Malta Arts Festival 19 currency 14 film 148, 156 H Malta International Air customs regulations 170 cycling 178 Valletta Film Festival 18 Ħaġar Qim 12, 110-12, 111 Show 19 Fireworks Festival 18 Hal Saflieni Hypogeum 11, Malta Jazz Festival 19 D Floriana 58-9 Malta National 64, 11 dangers 174 accommodation 138 health 171 Aquarium 85 Dingli Cliffs 100 folklore 161 hiking, see walking Maltese balconies 167 Dingli, Tommaso 167 Fomm ir-Riħ 102 history 16, 150-60 Malti language 14, 162, disabilities, travellers food 16-17, 32-5, 17 Arab rulers 152 182-4 with 175 budget 171 books 150, 152, 154, 155 marathons 31 discount cards 170 fenkata 34 British rule 157 Marfa Peninsula 83 diving & snorkelling 10, ftira 33 films 156 marine life 23, 88 pastizzi 33 independence 159-60 markets 22-8, 26, 29 vegetarian & vegan internet resources 154 courses & qualifications Napoleon 156-7 Bugeja Fish Market 121 travellers 35 Norman conquest 152 Fresh Produce 23-4 Fort Rinella 64 prehistory 150-1 fortresses WWII 158-9 Market 53 responsible diving 24 Holy Week 18 It-Tokk 118 diving & snorkelling sites Fort Chambray 121 horse riding 31 Malta Artisan Markets Fort Manoel 67 hunting 174 Blue Hole 126, 10 Fort Rinella 64 163 Buġibba 87 Fort St Elmo 51 I Street Market 57 Comino 133 Qalet Marku Tower 89 Sunday Fish Market 105 Golden Bay 78 Red (St Agatha’s) Il-Kastell 116-18, 117 Waterfront Market 105 Gozo 123 Marsalforn 126-8, 127 Marfa Peninsula 82 Tower 82 accommodation 145 Marsalforn 128 Marsaskala 109

188 I N D E X M - S Marsaxlokk 105-8 Natural Science Museum Grand Master’s Palace radio 172 accommodation 143 62 47, 50 Ramla Bay 132 religion 149, 162 Mdina 13, 91-5, 96-7, 13 Palazzo Falson 94 Inquisitor’s Palace 61 rental accommodation 135 accommodation 142 Pomskizillious Museum Palazzo Falson 94 rock climbing 31, 123 Palazzo Parisio 102 Romans 151 Mdina Cathedral of Toys 130 Palazzo Spinola 71 Contemporary Art St James’ Cavalier 53 San Anton Palace & S Biennale 19, 91 Toy Museum 51 Wignacourt Museum 98 Gardens 103 safety 174 Mdina Ditch Garden 94 music 163 Selmun Palace 84 sailing 28-30 measures 172 għana 163 parking 180 salt pans 82, 105, 123, 126, medical services 121 Għanafest 19 parks & gardens, see Mediterranea 19 Malta Jazz Festival 19 also nature reserves 127, 131 megalithic sites, see Mdina Ditch Garden 94 Saluting Battery 52 N Palazzo Parisio 102 San Blas Bay 132 archaeological sites Rundle Gardens 118 San Lawrenz 125 Nadur 130-2 San Anton Palace & Mellieħa 79-82, 80 accommodation 146 accommodation 145 accommodation 141 Gardens 103 Napoleon 156-7 Upper Barrakka Gardens Senglea 59-62, 60-1 Mġarr (Gozo) 120-1 nature reserves accommodation 138 accommodation 144 52 Comino 132 passports 175 Sharklab 88 Mġarr ix-Xini 122 Filfla 112 Phoenicians 151 sharks 88 Mġarr (Malta) 79 Għadira Nature phonecards 174 silver filigree 163 migration 148-9 photography 173 Skorba temples 79 military architecture 166 Reserve 81 Piano, Renzo 168 Mintoff, Dominic 159 Is-Simar Nature Reserve Pjazza Indipendenza Sliema 39, 65-70, 68 accommodation 65, Mnajdra 12, 110-12, 12 84 118-20 138-40 mobile phones 14, 174 Park tal-Majjistral 78 planning, see also individual activities 67 money 14, 172-3, see also Naxxar 102 climate 65 accommodation 142-3 regions drinking 70 costs newspapers 172 activities 22-31 food 65, 67-9 Mosta 100-1 Ninu’s Cave 129 budgeting 15 highlights 66 motorcycle travel 179-80 Northwest Malta 40, 75-89, calendar of events 18-19 medical services 70 Munxar 144 76-7 children 36-8 shopping 70 museums & art galleries accommodation 75, internet resources 15 sights 67 itineraries 20-1 travel seasons 65 Archaeology Museum 140-2 Malta & Gozo basics travel within 70 116 climate 75 food 75 14-15 Smart City 64 Cathedral Museum highlights 76 Malta & Gozo’s regions smoking 172 (Mdina) 94 travel seasons 75 snorkelling, see diving & Notte Bianca 19 39-40 Cathedral Museum travel seasons 14, 18-19 snorkelling (Victoria) 116 O politics 148-9 Southeast Malta 40, 104-12 population 149 Għar Dalam Cave & opening hours 173 postal services 173 accommodation 143 Museum 108 prehistoric architecture climate 104 P 165 food 104 Għarb Folklore Museum Preti, Mattia 52 highlights 106-7 124 Paceville 39, 65, 70-74, 72 public phones 174 sports 163-4, see also accommodation 65, 140 activities Kelinu Grima Maritime activities 70-1 Q St Agatha 95 Museum 130 climate 65 St Agatha’s Crypt & drinking 72-4 Qala 132 Catacombs 95 Lascaris War Rooms 52 entertainment 74 accommodation 146 St John’s Co-Cathedral 12, Malta at War Museum food 65, 71-2 45-7, 45, 13 highlights 66 Qawra 85-9 St Julian’s 39, 65, 70-74 72 62 sights 70-1 accommodation 141-2 accommodation 65, 140 Malta Aviation Museum travel seasons 65 activities 70-1 travel to/from 74 R climate 65 98 travel within 74 drinking 72-3 Malta Classic Car Rabat (Gozo), see Victoria entertainment 74 palaces (Rabat) food 65, 71-2 Collection 85 Casa Bernard 95 highlights 66 National Museum of Casa Rocca Piccola 51 Rabat (Malta) 13, 95-8, 96-7 Archaeology 44-6 accommodation 142 National Museum of Fine Arts 46 National Museum of Natural History 94 National War Museum 52 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

189 shopping 74 Ta’Ħaġrat Temple 79 entertainment 57 Victoria Lines 89 I N D E X S -Z sights 70-1 Tarxien Temples 64 food 42, 53-6 Xemxija Heritage Trail 84 travel seasons 65 theatres 50, 57 highlights 43 walking tours travel to/from 74 Astra Theatre 120 history 44 travel within 74 Aurora Opera House 120 itineraries 46 Valletta 54, 54 St Paul’s Bay 85-9 Manoel Theatre 50 money 57 Vittoriosa 63, 63 accommodation 141-2 St James’ Cavalier 53 postal services 57 watchtowers 69 St Paul’s Catacombs 95 theft 174 shopping 57-9 watersports 16, 22-30, see St Paul’s Cathedral 91 Three Cities 59-64 sights 44-53 also diving & snorkelling St Peter’s Pool 105 accommodation 138 tourist information 57 Bugibba 87 stand-up paddleboarding Three Villages 102-3 travel seasons 42 Comino 132 30 accommodation 143 travel to/from 57-8 Golden Bay 78 Strait Street 56 time 174 travel within 58-64 Gozo 123 student travellers 170 tipping 173 walking tours 54, 54 weather 14, 18-19, 170, see Süleyman the Magnificent toilets 174 Valletta Film Festival 18 also individual regions 152-4 tourist information 175 vegetarian & vegan weights 172 swimming 28, 174, see also tours 177-8, see also boat travellers 35 wildlife 23, 30, 88 beaches trips, driving tours, Victoria Lines 89 windsurfing 30 walking tours Victoria (Rabat) 116-20, 119 wine 34 T toy museums 51, 130 accommodation 143-4 women in Malta 162-3 traditional arts 163 drinking 119 WWII 158-9 Ta’Ċenċ 122 travel insurance 171 food 119-20 accommodation 144 travel to/from Malta & shopping 120 X Gozo 176-8 sights 116-18 Ta’Dbieġi Crafts Village travel within Malta & Gozo viewpoints 17 Xagħra 128-30, 129 125 178-81 visas 14, 175 accommodation 145 trekking, see walking Vittoriosa 10, 59-63, 60-1, Ta’Qali Crafts Village 98 TV 172 5, 11 Xemxija 84-5 Tarxien Temples 64 accommodation 138 Xerri’s Grotto 129 taxes 173 V Xewkija 122 taxis 181 W Xlendi 122-4 telephone services 14-15, Valletta 8, 39, 42-64, 48-9, 2, 8, 17 walking 30 accommodation 145 174 accommodation 42, Dingli Cliffs 100 temples 110 136-8 Marsalforn 126 Y children, travel with 55 Park tal-Majjistral 78 Ġgantija Temples 128 climate 42 Ta’Ċenċ 122 yachting 177 Ħaġar Qim 12, 110-12, 111 drinking 56 Hal Saflieni Hypogeum Z 11, 64, 11 Żurrieq 109-10 Mnajdra 12, 110-12, 12 Skorba Temples 79

190 NOTES

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 191 Map Legend Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Walking Tour Shinto Beach Walking Tour detour Sikh Gate Path/Walking Trail Taoist Hut/Shelter Winery/Vineyard Lighthouse Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Lookout Other Sight Mountain/Volcano International Oasis State/Province Activities, Park Disputed Courses & Tours Pass Regional/Suburb Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (National) Skiing Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Snorkelling City/Large Town Intermittent River Surfing Town/Village Canal Swimming/Pool Walking Transport Water Windsurfing Other Activity Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Border crossing Sleeping Bus Reef Cable car/Funicular Sleeping Cycling Areas Camping Ferry Metro station Airport/Runway Eating Monorail Parking Beach/Desert Eating Petrol station S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Cemetery (Christian) Drinking & Nightlife Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Cemetery (Other) Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Cafe Tram Glacier Tube station Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Mudflat Other Transport Entertainment Park/Forest Note: Not all symbols displayed above Shopping appear on the maps in this book Sight (Building) Shopping Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITER Abigail Blasi Originally from London, Abigail has also lived in Hong Kong and Rome, and has been travel writing since 2002. As often as she can, she takes her young family on the road to assist with research. As well as writing for many newspapers and magazines, Abigail has worked for Lonely Planet in researching numerous Mediterranean destinations, including Italy, Portugal and Tunisia, but one of her favourites is Malta. Having been bewitched by this cluster of islands, dotted by historic wonders, she can’t wait to go back. Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 6th edition – Feb 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum ISBN 978 1 74321 502 9 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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