CHEF’S TALK I MACAU2 foodtalk ISSUE 45
AMUSE BOUCHEWelcome to the 45th issue of Foodtalk! And to our new look Foodtalk! With an exciting larger format, more in-depth interviews with the best chefs working in the industry, but still packed with the same fun food features our readers love, we are sure you will enjoy its fresh new appealThis desire to constantly move forwards and strive for new premises. With both companies under one roofimprovement has always helped Angliss maintain our they can effectively share operational efficiencies, offer aposition as an industry leader. For example, we have better customer experience and combine strengths andalways understood that innovation and technology, economies of scale. We also have a new office opening inworking in tandem with skilled human interaction, are Vietnam later this year.essential in staying ahead of the pack. We work incompetitive and challenging markets and constantly As ever we would like to thank our suppliers, businessstrive to be the very best. partners, brand principles and customers for their continued support and faith in our vision. We are trulySubsequently we are putting more resources and grateful for this confidence.investment into our technology and systems. We areenhancing our warehouse management to achieve Back to the issue! In this revamped Foodtalk you will findsmoother and more efficient workflows. Of course, revealing interviews with renowned chefs including Theeven these amazing technologies require talented Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong’s Peter Find and Antimo Meroneoperators, and we also continue to invest significantly of 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana Macau among others,in staff training to guarantee we can get the very best alongside FT’s usual entertaining and inspiring content.from these systems. Enjoy the issue!We are investing in other areas as well. We recentlywelcomed Bidfood Malaysia into the Bidcorp family Johnny Kangand Gourmet Partner Malaysia into their impressive Regional Managing Director - Asia 第45期的Foodtalk與大家見面了!Foodtalk換上新裝與大家見面!這一期的通訊版面較大,收錄更多與業內頂級名廚的詳 盡訪談,大家所喜愛、與食物有關的趣聞樂事亦一應俱全,讀者定必樂在其中!安得利矢志不斷向前、致力改進提升,此信念一直有助我們 率,優化客戶體驗,達致規模經濟。在本年較後時間,我們亦穩佔行業翹楚的地位。舉例來說,我們始終深信,創新和科 會在越南開設新的辦事處。技元素,加上不同崗位人員之間的有效合作,是在餐飲業獨佔鰲頭的關鍵所在。在現時競爭激烈及充滿挑戰的市場中, 我們謹藉此機會,由衷感謝各供應商、業務夥伴、主要品牌和我們會繼續努力,力臻完美。 客戶對我們願景的持續支持和信任。非常感激眾人多年來對安 得利的信賴!最近幾年,我們將更多資源和資金投放至科技和系統範疇,例如提升倉庫管理系統,以實現更流暢和高效的工作流程。 最後,當然不可不提及這一期的豐富內容!換上新裝的毫無疑問,無論科技如何先進,也需要優秀的營運人員在背 Foodtalk除了收錄有趣且具啟發性的專欄外,還載有與香後鼎力支持。此外,我們也繼續在員工培訓方面進行巨額投 港麗思卡爾頓酒店的Peter Find和澳門 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo資,從而確保這些系統發揮最大的效益。 Bombana 的Antimo Merone 及多位名廚的精彩訪問。當然,安得利也未有忽略其他領域。最近,Bidfood 希望大家都喜歡這一期的Foodtalk!Malaysia 加盟 Bidcorp大家庭,而 Gourmet PartnerMalaysia 亦喬遷至全新的辦公室,我們深表興奮。兩間公 江文喜司現時屬同一集團,強強聯手,有效分享資源,提高營運效 亞洲區董事總經理 3
CONTENTS ISSUE 45 Contents 03 Editor-in-Chief / 總編輯 : 06 AMUSE BOUCHE James Stephen Editor / 編輯 : An introduction from Managing Vivian Lau Director Johnny Kang Project Manager / 項目统籌 : Wisteria Lo 06 Creative Director / 設計及藝術總監 : Fanky Fu COVER STORY Chinese Translation / 翻譯 : HONG KONG A Chan of RR Donnelley PETER FIND Foodtalk is published quarterly by Angliss Hong Kong Food One of the city’s most respected Service Ltd. chefs, Peter Find, Executive Chef Foodtalk季刊由安得利香港餐飲 of The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, 有限公司出版 discusses his love of keeping customers happy 2018 © Copyright Angliss Hong by Rebecca Lo Kong Food Service Ltd. All rights reserved. 12 2018 © 安得利香港餐飲有限公司 版權所有,不得翻印 BOOK TALK Published by: Angliss Hong Kong Food Service Unlock the secrets of grilling heaven Limited with Korean BBQ: Master Your Grill 47-51 Kwai Fung Crescent, in Seven Sauces Kwai Chung, N.T. Hong Kong T. +852 2481 5111 12 14 F. +852 2489 8861 [email protected] CHEF’S TALK www.angliss.com.hk HONG KONG 出版: 安得利香港餐飲有限公司 GREGOIRE MICHAUD 香港新界葵涌葵豐街47-51號 電話 +852 2481 5111 Following the success of his industrial 傳真 +852 2489 8861 bakery supplying the industry, [email protected] legendary baker Gregoire Michaud www.angliss.com.hk has recently opened a retail outlet. He explains why4 20 CHEF’S TALK MACAU ANTIMO MERONE 81/2 Otto E Mezzo BOMBANA Executive Chef Antimo Merone on continuing celebrity chef Umberto Bombana’s Michelin aspirations in Macau by Rebecca Lo 14 24 CHEF’S TALK SINGAPORE LOUIS TAY Swissotel Merchant Court Executive Chef and Singapore National Culinary Team Leader Louis Tay explains how he juggles two highly demanding roles
28 20 30 50HAPPENINGS 39MALAYSIA 46A recent grand opening eventwelcomed Gourmet Partner Malaysiainto the Bidcorp family and BidfoodMalaysia into their impressive newpremises30INDUSTRYAWARDSPRING MOONAngliss client Michelin star renewed34CHEF’S TALKBEIJINGANDY CHOYHaving opened restaurants in Tianjinand Beijing for Groupe FLO Asia,Executive Chef Andy Choy has seenChina’s appetite for French cuisineexplode39CHINA TALKAngliss Shanghai organises ‘2017Thank You Dinner in Shanghai’to mark 10th anniversary; AnglissBeijing wins key food safety award;Angliss Guangzhou hosts “familydinner” to thank customers; AnglissShenzhen showcases amazing beefproducts46TALK FRESHA new book collaboration withBelcolade, the Belgian chocolatebrand of Puratos, showcasesstunning chocolate art50HEALTH TALKLooking to shape up for spring?While exercise can help, diet plays agreater role52TALK OF THETOWN & GLOBEEvents, shows and F&B openings inGreater China and around the world 5
COVER STORY I HONG KONG Sky High Maestro Peter Find, Executive Chef of The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, discusses orchestrating one of the city’s most refined collections of restaurants By Rebecca Lo Photography by Koon Ming TangFT(Foodtalk): What led to your career 香港麗思卡爾頓酒店的行政總廚范as a chef? 秉達 (Peter Find) 為我們娓娓道來PF(Peter Find): I come from Bersrod, a 他如何策劃一系列香港最雅緻不凡village with less than 800 people about 的餐廳65km north of Frankfurt/Main, Germany.We had a garden and I learned to respect FT(Foodtalk): 甚麼促使你踏上廚師之路seasonal produce. My uncle was a butcher 的?in a nearby village, and I grew up helping PF(Peter Find): 我來自德國的Bersrod,in the shop or at my family’s farm. Then, 這個村莊的人口不足800人,位於德國法蘭when I was 14, I apprenticed as a butcher; 克福以北約65公里。我們家有一個花園,we would cater small parties of 30 people 在那裏我了解到時令農產品的美妙之處。by providing charcuterie. After, in 1983, 我的叔叔是附近一個村莊的屠夫,我長大I apprenticed under an Alsace chef who 後就在他的店幫忙打點或者在家裏的農場taught me classic French techniques. 幹活。14歲時,我當上屠夫學徒。我們會 為小型派對提供熟食。到了1983年,我拜FT: Who were your mentors? 了一位來自法國東北面阿爾薩斯的廚師學PF: I admired the late Paul Bocuse - he 廚,學習了不少經典的法式烹調技巧。was a huge figure for every classicallytrained chef, though I never worked withhim. The others are Achim Krutsch, AlfredFriedrich and Anton Mosimann. They6 foodtalk ISSUE 45
BEHIND THE STOVES Ozonefoodtalk ISSUE 45 7
BEHIND THE STOVES8 foodtalk ISSUE 45
ToscaOur motto is “Ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen”are different characters with different styles of cooking. Koenigsberger, klops and capersWhat they have in common is passion. Achim taughtme to experiment. Alfred explained why certain flavours FT: 你曾經師承哪幾位名廚?worked well together and how to get the best out of each PF: 我很欣賞已故的 Paul Bocuse。對所有受過傳統烹調訓練的ingredient. Anton was a marketing king who taught the 廚師來說,他都是一位非常了不起的人物,可惜我從未與他合作importance of customer interaction. 過。其他的則包括德國廚師Achim Krutsch和Alfred FriedrichFT: What led to your current position as Executive Chef 以及瑞士廚師Anton Mosimann。他們有著不同的性格,而烹飪at The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong? 風格也非常不一樣,但他們的共通點是對烹飪充滿熱情。AchimPF: When I was working at The Repulse Bay in Hong Kong 教我如何體會烹飪的樂趣。Alfred則會向我解釋為何若干口味配in 1999, I met a Ritz-Carlton chef who talked about the 合在一起,能夠產生非常奇妙的效果,以及如何帶出每種食材的brand’s huge potential. Intrigued, I went on to join the group 精粹。Anton是一位營銷大師,他教曉我與顧客互動的重要之as Executive Sous Chef at The Ritz-Carlton, Singapore. 道。A chance to join the opening team at The Ritz-Carlton,Bahrain then came up. At the time I didn’t even know where FT: 你為甚麼會當上目前香港麗思卡爾頓酒店的行政總廚?Bahrain was! But I knew that having Middle East experience PF: 1999年在香港淺水灣酒店工作時,我遇到一位麗思卡爾頓酒 店的大廚,他侃侃而談其品牌的龐大潛力。有趣的是,我其後就 Tin Lung Heen 加入了成為新加坡麗思卡爾頓酒店的行政副總廚。不久,我更有 機會成為巴林麗思卡爾頓酒店的開幕團隊成員。當時我甚至不知 道巴林在哪裏!但我知道具備中東經驗將會是一種優勢,所以最 終在那裏待上了四年。 我一直對麗思卡爾頓的皇冠標誌以及其背後的歷史非常著迷。酒 店的座右銘是「我們是一群為女士與紳士提供服務的女士與紳 士」。我們會投放資源給員工,並確保客人獲得悉心照料並感到foodtalk ISSUE 45 9
COVER STORY I HONG KONGwas an advantage, and ended up spending four years there. German schwabentopf and cherryI have always been fascinated by The Ritz-Carlton’s crown 稱心滿意。我們致力本著真誠貫徹此宗旨,而這非常符合我的性logo and the history behind it. Our motto is “Ladies and 格,我來自一個小村莊並在小村莊成長,向來非常樂於助人。gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen”. We empowerour staff with the resources to ensure guests are taken care FT: 你們設有這麼多不同的餐廳,如何能確保一貫的高水準?of and are happy. We do this consistently and genuinely, PF: 聘用合適的人才非常重要。我們很幸運,因為酒店開幕團隊which suits my character, as being from a small village, I like 中的許多成員現時仍然與我們並肩同行。我們的員工流失率低,helping people. 從服務到食物都能保持一致的高水準。此外,確保優質食材供 應穩定亦重要攸關。榮獲米芝蓮一星或兩星畢竟需要付出很大努FT: How do you maintain high standard with such a wide 力。同時,我們也有不少新穎的構想。我們不斷提供迎合市場所array of outlets? 需的菜式,菜式看上去非常吸引,而且以優質食材入饌。客戶喜PF: Hire the right people. We are lucky as we still have a 歡與廚師互動。我也會親自與他們接觸,聽取寶貴的意見。因large number of the hotel’s opening team. Our staff is stable, 此,我們吸引許多常客光顧。which helps keep everything consistent, from service tocuisine. It is also important to have a consistent supply of FT: 你如何能夠在香港這個競爭激烈的市場中脫穎而出?products. Getting one or two Michelin stars takes a lot of PF: 我們酒店的位置優越,而且居高臨下,客人可在天朗氣清的hard work. At the same time, we are open-minded. We 日子一覽香港最壯麗的景觀。此外,我們奪得不少獎項,深受客consistently offer dishes that are relevant to the market,visually appealing and made with wonderful produce.Customers like to interact with chefs, and I personallyengage with them to get feedback. As a result, we have agood network of regulars.FT: How do you differentiate yourself in Hong Kong’scompetitive market?PF: The hotel’s location and elevation are big attractions.On a clear day customers can enjoy one of Hong Kong’smost stunning views. Our awards attract people, who alsoappreciate our personalised service and unique products.And with seven outlets here, we have something foreveryone. The Lounge and Bar10
“When a customer tells me a dish is good, that makes me happy”FT: What does the chef’s table experience bring to your 人歡迎,而客人也非常欣賞我們度身訂造的服務和一系列獨特的guests? 菜式。我們設有七間餐廳,能夠切合不同的口味和需要。PF: Providing unique experiences is part of our passion.Since 2011 we have offered my version of a chef’s table, FT:「廚師之桌」能為你的客人帶來什麼體驗?where every menu is personalised. Each features seasonal PF: 提供獨特的進餐體驗是展現我們對美食熱情的其中一環。自items that may not be the most expensive, but are executed 2011年以來,我們已因應不同食客的口味而設計「廚師之桌」,with great finesse. I often talk to my guests to find out what 每份菜單都是度身訂造。每道菜式都會選用時令食材,材料未they like before coming up with the menu. It’s a memorable 必是最昂貴,但卻是非常精緻。在點菜之前,我通常會與食客談experience for a group of friends and family to have me 談,了解他們的喜好。一群朋友和家人聚首一堂,而我則在他們cook something special right in front of them. 面前炮製美食,這實在是非常難忘的經驗。FT: What were some of your biggest professional FT: 在你的事業生涯中,最令你引以為傲的獎項是甚麼?所遇到challenges and rewards? 最大的挑戰又是甚麼?PF: Preparing for the first Arab Summit with 23 different PF: 當我在巴林工作時,23個不同國家參與了阿拉伯的首次首腦nations when I was in Bahrain - it was a massive event. 會議,我需要為出席人士準備美食,而這實在是艱鉅的任務。此The first Formula One in Bahrain; I learned a lot, since 外,在巴林的首次一級方程式賽車中,我獲益良多,畢竟當中涉that took a lot of planning. Winning Best Global Chef for 及很多的規劃工作。在2013年,我贏得了麗思卡爾頓酒店全球最Ritz-Carlton hotels worldwide in 2013; this award was 佳廚師獎;這個獎項的結果反映了員工和客戶的意見,意味著得based on employee and customer feedback, implying that 獎者是品牌的良好楷模。在2014年第一屆大中華地區酒店業大獎the recipient is a good role model for the brand. Being 頒獎典禮上,我有幸獲選為上海年度酒店廚師。當然,能夠見證recognised as Chef Hotelier of the Year in Shanghai at 香港麗思卡爾頓這間全球最高酒店的開幕,我亦感到無比自豪。the first Hotelier Awards Greater China in 2014. And, of 不過,說到底,當食客告訴我一道菜真的很好吃時,才是我感到course, opening the highest hotel in the world - my biggest 最滿足的時刻。achievement. In the end, though, when a customer tells mea dish is good, that makes me happy.foodtalk ISSUE 45 11
BOOK TALK Korean BBQ: Master Your Grill in Seven Sauces By Bill Kim and Chandra Ram, Ten Speed12
There’s not much the Koreans don’t 作者:Bill Kim 及 Chandra Ramknow about barbeque and grilling, 出版社:Ten Speedand this new guide allows even theuninitiated to become experts 韓國人對燒烤堪稱無所不知,而有了這本 全新指南,現在所有門外漢都能夠成為燒Chef Bill Kim, who was born in Korea but raised in 烤專家 Chicago, was clearly aware that he needed to addan element of fusion to make this 240-page cookbook 名廚Bill Kim生於韓國,但在芝加哥長大。他清楚瞭accessible to those more familiar with the western 解到需要融合不同元素,才能使慣於西方燒烤模式的barbeque model. 人,較易明白這本240頁烹飪書的精髓。He has subsequently produced a straightforward 他深入淺出地解釋韓國一些最美味的醬汁、調味料和explanation of some of Korea’s most amazing sauces, 烤焗方法,因此即使是燒烤新手,也能自行創製韓式rubs and infusions that enable even the most basic of 燒烤美食。grillers to add delicious new flavours. Kim來自芝加哥屢獲殊榮的bellyQ餐廳。鑑於其韓國Kim, of Chicago’s award-winning bellyQ restaurants, is 根源,他對傳統韓式燒烤情有獨鍾,但同時成長中接a lover of both the traditional barbeque of his Korean 觸的經典美式家庭燒烤聚餐,對他亦有一定影響。roots as well as the classic American family cookoutshe later grew up with. 將在4月份登陸各大書店的還有續集篇《韓式燒烤: 烤出好滋味》(Korean BBQ: Master Your Grill) 的The subsequent 80 mash-up recipes in Korean BBQ: 80個糅合不同元素食譜,食譜專為閒時會在家燒烤Master Your Grill, not due to hit bookshops until April, 的人士而設,他們可以從中學習到韓式燒烤的基本are designed for home cooks to both learn the basics 知識,然後運用創意,變化出自己的風格。書中首of the Korean grill and then customise them as they 先介紹七種主調味醬(和三種香料調味粉),包括will. First are the seven master sauces (and three Korican醬 (這種醬料結合了波多黎各與韓國風味)、spice rubs), including Korican sauce (a combination 咖哩鹽和韓國香蒜。這些醬料均能很快準備妥當。of Puerto Rican and Korean flavours), curry salt andKorean pesto, which are super quick to prepare. 書中還列出多款令人垂涎的食譜,包括醬烤雞槌、海 鮮焗豆、柚子毛豆、泡菜薯仔沙律、首爾水牛城燒These are followed by mouthwatering recipes 蝦、BBQ五香雞髀以及蜜汁牛扒。另外,書中還可including Sticky Chicken Crumsticks, Hoisin Baked 以找到一系列有趣的小吃、飲料、伴菜和甜品。Beans, Yuzu Edamame, Kimchi Potato Salad, Seoul toBuffalo Shrimp, BBQ Spiced Chicken Thighs and Honey 這本靈感巧思隨處可見的新書不僅滿載精彩而簡單的Soy Flank Steak. Readers will also find a fun collection 食譜,還呈現了Bill Kim這位受過傳統訓練的名廚如of snacks, drinks, sides and desserts. 何運用無限創意,將韓國傳統技術與現代燒烤烹飪方 法融會貫通。Not only full of brilliant, accessible recipes, thisinspirational new title also tells the story of how aclassically trained chef was able to blend traditionalKorean techniques with a modern approach tocontemporary barbeque cooking.foodtalk ISSUE 45 13
CHEF’S TALK I MACAU Baking up a Storm Photography courtesy Bakehouse FT(Foodtalk): While growing up was food an important part of your life? Gregoire Michaud was born with flour GM(Gregoire Michaud): I grew up in on his hands. After working for many a rural area where my family made years in the hotel industry he opened his most of our food – bread of course, own bakery in Hong Kong supplying the but many other things. I loved eating, trade five years ago, and followed that but even from an early age I wanted to learn how to cook, so I could be success with a recent retail outlet self-reliant. Baking I found particularly satisfying – from simple dough14
CHEF’S TALK I HONG KONGemerges beautiful bread! It was a magical Gregoire Michaud自少就註定以麵粉為業。他曾process, and I still feel that way. 於酒店業工作多年,並在5年前開設自家的烘焙工 場,為同行供應相關產品,業務蒸蒸日上。最近,FT: Does the area where you were born 他的零售麵包店亦告開業and brought up in Switzerland, Valais,have a distinctive culinary culture? Did it FT(Foodtalk): 在你的成長過程中,食物是重要的一環嗎?help forge the baker you would become GM(Gregoire Michaud): 我在農村長大,大部分食物都是家GM: Yes, it’s at the intersection of Italy, 人自己製作的,麵包也不例外,當然亦有許多其他東西。我很France and Switzerland and there’s a 喜歡吃,從小就想學烹飪,所以我憑自己一雙手就可創造美fascinating mix of culinary cultures there. 食。烘焙真的很有趣,一個簡單的麵團就能造出外形非常吸引But although it was certainly inspiring, I 的麵包!這是一個十分神奇的過程,至今我仍然有這種感覺。was shaped more by my travels than myroots. FT: 您在瑞士瓦萊州出生並長大,該地區是否擁有獨特的烹飪 文化? 這些文化對你後來成為一名烘焙師有幫助嗎?foodtalk ISSUE 45 GM: 有的,瓦萊州位於意大利、法國和瑞士的交界,當地匯聚 了各種不同的美食文化。雖然這些文化對我有一定薰陶,但周 遊列國對我的影響似乎大一點。 FT: 你曾於瑞士著名的Richemont Baking Institute學習烘 焙。可否與我們分享一下有關經驗? GM: 當年,一星期內我要在麵包店實習四天,到學校上課一 天。對於一個15歲的少年來說,這是非常刻苦的事情。「學不 成就要回家」。我仍然弄不清自己是如何熬過那段日子,甚至 能夠以全級第一名畢業!我想我生下來就是做烘焙的材料。 1515
CHEF’S TALK I HONG KONG FT: You trained at the renowned Swiss Richemont Baking Institute – how was that experience? GM: I had to spend four days working at the bakery and one day at school. It was very tough for a 15-year-old, either “learn or leave”. I still don’t quite know how I got through it, and still managed to graduate top of my class! I guess I was just born to do this. FT: You were already an established baker when you decided to study for a hotel management diploma at Lausanne Hotel School. What drove this decision? GM: I wanted to learn more about the business side of the industry. I then worked for a year as an F&B manager at Four Seasons Hotel Dublin to turn theory into practice. It was useful for my later ventures. FT: You had a successful career with Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts as an executive pastry chef. What attracted you to the brand? GM: I have always liked Four Seasons’ attitude towards people, both employees and guests – it is one of the reasons for their success. Essentially they are a group of good people working hard together. I was with Four Seasons in Hong Kong for 11 years – three at The Regent, which was managed by Four Seasons, and eight years at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong itself. FT: 當你決定到瑞士洛桑酒店管理學院 (Lausanne Hotel School)修讀酒店管理文憑 時,你已經是一個技巧相當成熟的烘焙師。是 甚麼驅使你作出這個決定的? GM: 我想了解更多關於烘焙行業的商業運作。 其後,我在愛爾蘭都柏林四季酒店的餐飲部當 了一年經理,將所學理論轉化為實踐。這些東 西對我後來營運餐廳和店舖都很有用。 FT: 你曾在四季酒店及度假村擔任糕點部行政 總廚,並發展了一番事業。「四季」這個品牌 有甚麼吸引到你? GM: 四季對員工和客人的態度,我一直甚有好 感,並且認為這是他們賴以成功的因素之一。 他們絕對是勤奮工作的優秀人才。我在香港的 四季酒店集團工作了11年,其中3年是在四季管 理的麗晶酒店,而8年則在香港四季酒店。16
“Baking I found particularly satisfying - from simple dough emerges beautiful bread! It was a magical process, and I still feel that way”FT: This is your second stint in Hong Kong. What drew FT: 這是你第二次回到香港工作。是甚麼吸引你再來?you here again? GM: 我第一次來香港是在當時的麗晶酒店擔任糕點廚師。第GM: My first was as a pastry chef at the former Regent 二次則是獲邀加盟全新香港四季酒店的開業團隊。當第一天上Hong Kong. The second time I was invited to be part of 班時,我仍需要戴上頭盔,因為酒店還在施工中!這非常具挑the new Four Seasons Hong Kong opening team. When 戰性,但我們在整個過程中可謂做到盡善盡美的品質。first on board I had to wear a helmet, as constructionwas still ongoing! It was challenging, but we succeeded FT: 你於2013年開設了自己的烘焙工場Bread Elements。你in establishing very high standards throughout the 為何對能成功充滿信心?operation. GM: 我和合作夥伴都非常投入工作,相信顧客會信賴我們的 優質產品和服務。 我們最初兩三年甚至沒有任何銷售人員,FT: You opened your bakery, Bread Elements, in 2013. 只靠行家的口耳相傳。我們現在有60名員工,目前正在探索Why were you confident you would be successful? 出口市場的機遇。我對現時的進展感到頗滿意。GM: My partners and I had to work very hard but wereconfident that the products would speak for themselves. FT: 您首家同時提供麵包和咖啡的店舖Bakehouse最近開We didn’t even have sales people for the first two or 業。你是怎樣做出自家店舖的特色,從其他對手中脫穎而出?three years, it was just word of mouth. We now have GM: 我覺得一切都關乎客戶體驗。我們會在店內烘焙新鮮麵60 employees, and are currently exploring the export 包,並確保質量保持在最高水平,顧客一眼就能夠看出來,market. I’m really pleased with how it has worked out. 17foodtalk ISSUE 45
CHEF’S TALK I HONG KONG “We are all passionate people, who value handcrafted, wholesome and authentic food” FT: Your first retail venture, Bakehouse bakery/cafe 但我們也會確保價格合理。我們希望能夠與顧客和社區建立緊密 recently opened. How have you tried to differentiate it 的聯繫。 from other cafes? GM: It’s all about the customer experience. We cook our FT: 你與本地的傳統食材生產商合作,取得朱古力、咖啡以及其 bread fresh on the premises, it is very good quality, and 他農產品的供應。這些產品為何對你們如此重要? they can see that, yet we keep our prices reasonable. We GM: 我們支持與具有相似理念的生產商合作,在產品中使用其優 want to connect with people and the neighbourhood. 質食材。我們對美食充滿熱情,非常重視手工製作、健康以及正 宗的食品。 FT: You collaborate with local artisans who supply you with chocolate, coffee and other produce. Why this is FT: 你最著名的產品之一是牛角包。你能說一下其獨特之處嗎? important to you? GM: 我喜歡多層的麵粉團,例如用於牛角包和丹麥糕點的麵粉 GM: We encourage partnerships with like-minded producers 團。我的牛角包會用上一點酸麵粉團,讓它們有一點點的香脆和 of ingredients we use in our products. We are all passionate 一點點的酸味。 people, who value handcrafted, wholesome and authentic food.18
FT: One of your most famous products are your FT: 您贏得了2013年香港和澳門最佳糕點廚師的稱號。你有甚croissants. Can you explain what is so special about 麼特別的感覺?them? GM: 我非常意外能夠獲得這個稱號,心情當然是受寵若驚。烘GM: I like layered dough, such as is used in croissants 焙不單是我的專業,現時我也有開展社區參與和教學工作。and Danish pastries. With my croissants I add a littlesourdough, which gives them a bit of crunch and a hint of FT: 你對安得利產品和服務有何看法?sourdough flavour. GM: 我與安得利合作良久,我甚至為其薄餅比賽擔任評判!當 然,我十分欣賞安得利產品的質量,亦很重視他們的投入和支FT: You won the title Best Pastry Chef 2013 for Hong 持。Kong & Macau. What did that mean to you?GM: I was very surprised, but flattered of course. It camedown to more than just my professional work though –it also took on board my community involvement andteaching.FT: What do you value about Angliss products and theservice you receive?GM: I have been working with Angliss for a long time – I’veeven judged their pizza competitions! Of course, whileI like the quality of Angliss products, I also value theirinvolvement and support. Baguette of the day Tomato, mozzarella and pesto, focaccia Avocado, bacon and cheddar, pretzelfoodtalk ISSUE 45 19
CHEF’S TALK I MACAU Carrying the Truffle Torch By Rebecca Lo Photography courtesy 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA, Macau Antimo Merone, Executive Chef at one Michelin-starred restaurant, 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA, in Galaxy Macau, reveals how he carries on traditions for three Michelin starred Hong Kong based celebrity Chef Umberto Bombana Homemade tagliolini FT(Foodtalk): Did your upbringing in Italy’s Naples region influence your career choice? AM(Antimo Merone): Yes. The Pozzuoli area where I grew up is in Campli Flegrei - Phlegraen Fields - west of Naples. It has rich volcanic soil perfect for vegetable and fruit such as tomato - my favourite product. I remember as an 18-month toddler, I would eat every tomato ripening in the sun on our balcony. My grandmother had a farm in the countryside. She was a good cook and we enjoyed mussels, squid and eel-grilled and simply prepared. Our Sunday lunch was often ragu, cooked for many hours on Saturday and then reheated. FT: Why jump to cooking in Berlin after studying finance in university? AM: While I was at university studying finance, I went backpacking. In Berlin, I discovered that I really wanted to cook. So I stayed and worked for a Sicilian guy named Gioacchino Conti at Vai Mo’ - meaning just go. One of my regular customers liked my food so much that he backed20
Antimo Merone是澳門銀河8 ½ “We deliver experiences according to eachOtto e Mezzo BOMBANA的行 guest’s expectations”政總廚。在以下的訪問中,他娓娓道來如何傳承以香港為基地、米芝 Private Room蓮三星名廚Umberto Bombana 21的優良傳統FT(Foodtalk): 你在意大利那不勒斯地區成長,有關經歷是否影響到你的職業選擇?AM(Antimo Merone): 是的,我在那不勒斯西部的Campli Flegrei-PhlegraenFields地區長大。當地蘊含火山灰的土壤相當肥沃,適合栽種蔬菜和水果,例如是我最喜愛的番茄。記憶中,我18個月大蹣跚學步時,就懂得在陽台摘在陽光下自然成熟的番茄來吃。我的祖母在郊區擁有一個農場,她的廚藝非常出色。我們很喜歡青口、魷魚和鰻魚。這些食物經過簡單調味然後烤熟,就已經十分美味。我們星期天的午餐通常有蕃茄肉醬,先在星期六煮幾個小時,然後翌日再加熱來吃。FT: 你在大學修讀金融,為何會轉到德國柏林學習烹飪?AM: 在大學修讀金融時,我去了一次背包旅行。在柏林,我發現自己對烹飪真的很著迷,於是我就留下來,在Vai Mo’(意指速食外賣店)跟一個名為GioacchinoConti的西西里人工作。其中一個熟客非常欣賞我煮的食物,於是出資給我開了一間小餐廳。我們會因應市場當天供應的新鮮食材,炮製簡單的意式美食。我甚麼崗位都需要負責:經理、廚師、採購員。簡直忙得要命!一年後,我聽母親的話重回校園接受正規的烹飪訓練。FT: 你從頂級烹飪學院Alma ScuolaInternazionale di Cucina Italiana學到了什麼?AM: 烹飪學校是一種與別不同的挑戰,導師們對我要求甚為嚴格。米芝蓮星級烹飪的魅力深深吸引著我,並為此先後前往Locanda nel Borgo Antico和Villa Crespi跟名廚Massimo Camia和Antonino Cannavacciuolo學廚。ISSUE 45 foodtalk
CHEF’S TALK I MACAU Dining Hall FT: 你為什麼會選擇到香港工作? AM: 我不太想留在意大利工作,而是希望能夠出外闖一闖。當 me to open a bistro. We served simple Italian fare based Umberto Bombana首次獲得米芝蓮三星時,我得知他的大名。 on whatever that was available at the market that day. I 我冒昧寫信給他,但當時沒有空缺,於是我只好把到香港工作的 was everything: manager, chef, purchaser - it was crazy! 夢想暫擱一旁,直到布雷西亞(Brescia)Miramonti L’Altro的 After a year there, I yielded to pressure from my mother, Philippe Léveillé邀請我到他那裡工作,我當然欣然接受。2012 returning to school for a proper culinary education. 年,我們在L Place開設了L’Altro。餐廳開業的同一年就獲得米 芝蓮一星。其後,我在那裡工作直到2014年。 FT: What were the lessons learned from top culinary FT: 你對名廚Bombana的第一印象怎樣?他和他的食物有何特 institute Alma Scuola Internazionale di Cucina Italiana? 別的吸引之處? AM: Culinary school was a different sort of challenge. The AM: 初時我以為他難以接近,但認識久了才發現完全相反。他其 chef instructors pushed me hard. I was fascinated by the 實非常平易近人,從不對我們呼呼喝喝。Bombana非常熱愛美 allure of Michelin stars, and that gave me the motivation 食,而且總是在廚房裡努力將每件事做到盡善盡美。他與我父親 to apprentice for Massimo Camia at Locanda nel Borgo 的年齡相近,此外我們對烹飪有著相同的理念。 Antico and Antonino Cannavacciuolo at Villa Crespi. Aveyron lamb, bel pepper peperonata, eggplant parmigiana FT: Why did you choose Hong Kong as a place to work? AM: I didn’t want to work in Italy; I was keen to explore the world. I heard about Umberto Bombana when he received three Michelin stars for the first time. I wrote him but he didn’t have an opening then. I forgot about my dreams of working in Hong Kong until Philippe Léveillé of Miramonti L’Altro in Brescia offered me a job, and I jumped at the opportunity. In 2012, we opened L’Altro in L Place. The restaurant received a Michelin star the same year we opened. I stayed there until 2014. FT: What were your first impressions of Chef Bombana? Was there something particularly appealing about him and his food? AM: I thought he looked a bit scary! But he is completely the opposite - he is a super nice guy and never yells. Chef Bombana is completely in love with food, healways stays in the kitchen and tries to make things better. He is around my father’s age, and we share the same philosophy. I worked with him in Hong Kong for seven months prior to moving to Macau; we opened here in May 2015. The menu in Macau offers around 70% of the same dishes from Hong Kong. We develop new dishes together, incorporating22
“We understand the personality of each guest”a few from my southern Italian background. Although 我搬到澳門之前曾在香港與他共事七個月,我們於2015年5月在Chef Bombana is from the north, he loves Mediterranean 濠江開業,這裡的菜單中約有七成與香港的相同。我們會一起創flavours. 作新菜式,有時會融合意大利南部特色。儘管Bombana來自意 大利北方,但他頗喜歡地中海風味。FT: Why is your restaurant so successful?AM: We understand the personality of each guest. We FT: 為何你的餐廳如此成功?never box ourselves in; we deliver experiences according AM: 成功之道就是要了解每位食客的個性,千篇一律需要極力避to each guest’s expectations. We offer precise service in 免,我們會根據每位客人的期望提供最佳的進餐體驗。以正統的a formal manner, yet we are never stiff. We present food 方式提供精確的服務是我們的座右銘,但我們從不會事事因循。in a straightforward way using great products. We never 直截了當地使用優質食材呈現佳餚,這是非常重要的。我們會嚴over manipulate; instead, we apply rigorous techniques. We 格遵循各個步驟,但從不會適得其反。正因持續的努力,餐廳在received our first Michelin star after one year in Macau: a 澳門開業一年就獲得了米芝蓮一星,可謂莫大的榮譽。big honour. Bombana是香港首位使用白松露的廚師,而我們的餐廳一直都Chef Bombana was the first chef in Hong Kong to use 以松露菜式而聞名。到餐廳進餐的客戶對此深感著迷,原因是我white truffle, and our restaurants are famous for our truffle 們大量加入松露,因此食物是非常物有所值。dishes. Our customers are crazy for it! We offer incrediblevalue for money, since we are very generous with how we FT: 在賭場度假村工作有什麼不同體驗?use it. AM: 一些客人不願花長時間用餐,而是希望能夠盡快投入博彩娛 樂。如果只有一小時,我們會從單點或淺嚐菜單,而非傳統的餐FT: What are some differences working in a casino resort? 牌中推薦幾道菜給他們。AM: Timing: some high rollers don’t wish to stay long todine, if they have only an hour, we would then recommend 我留意到顧客的口味正在改變,多達八成的用餐者偏愛淺嚐菜a few dishes from our à la carte or short tasting menu 單,這是到我們餐廳品嚐美食的極佳方法。由於菜單會隨時令作rather than the traditional one. 出改變,且食物份量不會過多,食客每次都可以享用不同的美 食。I have noticed that customers’ tastes are changing. Up to80% of our diners prefer the tasting menu. It is a great wayto approach our restaurant. As it changes seasonally andisn’t too heavy, people can enjoy something different everytime. Marinated and seared scallop Hokkaido king crab, fennel emulsion,foodtalk ISSUE 45 amalfi lemon, river beluga caviar 23
CHEF’S TALK I SINGAPORE Competitive Spirit Swissotel Merchant Court Executive Chef Louis Tay describes his other role as Singapore National Culinary Team Leader FT(Foodtalk): You have spent most 在以下訪問中,新加坡的瑞士茂 of your career in your home of 昌閣酒店行政總廚鄭添明 (Louis Singapore. Was this always your Tay) 將詳細道來擔任新加坡國家 intention? 烹飪小組組長的點點滴滴 LT(Louis Tay): When younger I always wanted to work outside Singapore FT(Foodtalk): 你大部份的事業生涯都是在 but family commitments prevented it. 祖國新加坡度過,這是你一直的本意嗎? Since then, however, I have had lots LT(Louis Tay): 年青時,我常常想離開新 of opportunities to travel for food 加坡,嚮往到外面世界闖一闖。但由於家 promotions and judging. 庭關係,一直未能成事。但後來我也得到 許多機會,到不同地方做飲食推廣和評判 FT: You have represented your 的工作。 country in many events - where did your strong sense of national pride FT: 你不時會在飲食相關活動上代表新加 come from? 坡,你強烈的國家自豪感從何而來? LT: I just feel so proud whenever I put LT: 原因非常簡單,每次當我穿著新加坡國 on my Singapore national team chef’s 家隊的廚師外套時,就會感到無比自豪。 jacket. FT: 在2014年世界盃國際廚藝競賽中,你 FT: In the 2014 Culinary World Cup 選擇鴿子作為你菜式的主題,而上一次則 your team prepared a pigeon dish, 選了兔子。你是否覺得選擇這些較具挑戰 which was very daring; last time you prepared rabbit. Do you think using these more challenging meats can give you an edge in competitions?24
LT: Before travelling to a country to compete I first try “...training and attention toto gain an understanding of the food culture there and detail is key”also take the season into account. Pigeon and rabbit areboth technically demanding, especially when cooking for 性的肉類,有助你在比賽中脫穎而出?110 people, but we pulled it off. Training and attention to LT: 在前往一個國家比賽前,我先會嘗試了解當地的飲食文化,detail is key. 並將相關節令亦考慮在內。鴿和兔在烹調技術上均有較高的要 求,尤其是需要為110人烹調美食時就更困難;不過,最後我們FT: At the IKA/Culinary Olympics you made history by 還是成功了。嚴格的訓練以及對細節的專注,都是致勝的關鍵representing the first Asian country to win both the cold 因素。display and hot cooking categories. How did you achievethat unique accolade? FT: 在IKA奧林匹克世界烹飪大賽中,你代表新加坡成為首個亞LT: To be honest I never thought of winning. But we 洲國家贏得冷盤展示和熱食類別的獎項。你是如何奪標取得榮put in a lot of effort in during training and received great 耀的?help and advice from our Singapore Chefs’ Association LT: 坦白說,我從未想過會勝出,但我們經歷了非常嚴格的訓練mentors. 過程,新加坡廚師協會也提供了許多協助和寶貴意見。FT: Culinary competitions can be very physicallydemanding and require a lot of training – any advice tothose who would like to follow your footsteps?LT: A lot of training – around a year of hard work!Basically we keep working until we hit the requiredquantity and quality. Culinary art and pastry art are themost time consuming elements.My advice would be to get prepared for this, and visitfoodtalk ISSUE 45 25
CHEF’S TALK I SINGAPORE Foie gras at Ellenborough Market Cafe as many different kinds of restaurants as possible to get FT: 參加烹飪比賽需要很多的體力、很嚴格的訓練,殊非易事。 inspiration. 對於有意跟隨你腳步的後進,你有甚麼建議給他們? LT: 嚴格和頻密的訓練是必不可少的,我們團隊就經歷了近一年的 FT: You have spent most of your career in your home of 苦練!我們一直非常努力,力求在質和量上達到所訂下的目標。 Singapore. Was this always your intention? 要把烹飪或糕點製作的藝術完美地實踐出來,都是相當費時的。 LT: A lot of opportunities for research and development, 我的建議就是作最周詳的準備,到不同種類的餐廳找尋靈感,越 and creating new cooking techniques and taste profiles. 多越好。 And yes – we won the IKA Culinary Olympics in 2016 whereby Singapore is the only Asian country to win this FT: 身為廚師,你參加這麼多的烹飪比賽,有何特別的感想?在 title. On top of this, we have also won three times in the 勝出的比賽當中,哪一個你最引以為傲? Expogast Culinary World Cup over the years. Afternoon tea at Crossroads Bar26
“I just feel so proud whenever I put on my Singapore national team chef’s jacket”FT: You have appeared on the judging panel of a LT: 通過這些比賽,我獲得了許多鑽研煮藝的機會,並能創出新Singapore cooking show – what was the experience of 的烹調技巧及口味。在IKA奧林匹克世界烹飪大賽中,我們代表working on television like? 新加坡成為首個贏得錦標的亞洲國家。此外,我們也曾在幾年間LT: I have taken part in many TV cooking shows – I enjoy 三次於廚藝世界盃 (Expogast Culinary World Cup) 中獲獎。the experience but it can take the whole day just to film a30-minute show! FT: 你曾在新加坡的電視烹飪節目上擔任評判,當中的經驗是怎 樣的?FT: Back in your day job, is it hard to get out of LT: 我曾在許多電視烹飪節目中亮相,我非常享受當中的過程,competition mentality? How do you relax after the 但短短三十分鐘的節目,往往需要花上整天的時間錄製!intensity of competition?LT: It’s true that whenever I take part in competitions I FT: 回到平日的常規工作時,是否很難放下比賽的思維?你如何never stop thinking about how to improve dishes! But it’s 從比賽的緊張節奏中放鬆下來?important to find the right way to do things. To relax I go LT: 當我參加比賽時,總會想著如何更上一層樓,製作更佳的菜for my favourite prawn noodles, have a glass of red wine 式!要找尋當中的正確之道,是非常重要的。在休息放鬆的時and think about potential new dishes. 候,我會一嘗自己喜愛的蝦麵,細味一杯紅酒,然後想想有甚麼 菜式上的新主意。FT: How do you describe your business partnershipwith Angliss and what you value the most about their FT: 你會如何形容與安得利的業務夥伴關係?你覺得安得利在產products and service? 品和服務上最大的優點是甚麼?LT: Angliss has been a great supporter and sponsor LT: 安得利多年來鼎力支持和贊助新加坡廚師協會和新加坡國家of the Singapore Chefs Association and the Singapore 烹飪小組。我與安得利一直保持緊密合作,關係十分良好。National Culinary Team. I work very closely with Anglissand we have built a strong relationship.foodtalk ISSUE 45 Ellenborough Market Cafe 27
HAPPENINGS I MALAYSIA Grand Opening in Malaysia Celebration ushers in new chapter for Gourmet Partner Malaysia and Bidfood Malaysia To formally welcome Bidfood Malaysia 隆重的慶祝活動見證Gourmet Partner into the Bidcorp family and Gourmet Malaysia及Bidfood Malaysia邁向新里程 Partner Malaysia into their impressive new premises, a Grand Opening celebration was 為了正式歡迎Bidfood Malaysia加盟Bidcorp 的 held on November 28, 2017. Customers and 大家庭以及慶賀Gourmet Partner Malaysia 喬遷 suppliers came from around the world to 至其耳目一新的選址,兩間公司於2017年11月28 attend the event and show their support. 日舉行了盛大的開幕典禮。來自世界各地的客戶 以及供應商紛紛出席表示支持。 Having both companies under one roof will allow them to share operational best28
practice, deliver a better customer experience 現時兩間公司隸屬同一集團,可以分享營運上的and offer more comprehensive product 最佳實踐、提供更優質的客戶體驗,以及推出ranges, while leveraging combined strengths 更全面的產品系列,同時結合兩者的雄厚實力and economies of scale and further strengthen 和規模經濟,進一步穩固馬來西亞不同細分市different market segments in Malaysia. 場的業務。The successful event saw speeches and toasts 是次活動取得空前成功,盛會上呈獻精彩演說,to the success of the new initiative, and an 嘉賓舉杯祝賀新業務成果理想,眾人紛紛緊握良opportunity for an exchange of ideas and 機交流意見,互相建立商譽。goodwill.ISSUE 45 foodtalk 29
CHEF’S TALK I MACAU Spring Moon foodtalk ISSUE 4530
INDUSTRY I AWARD Baked whole coconut rice with king crab leg and Portuguese sauce Traditional Innovation Creates a Winning Formula The Peninsula Hong Kong celebrates its second award year of winning a Michelin star. This year, the hotel’s world-renowned Cantonese fine-dining restaurant, Spring Moon, retains its coveted gong once again in this year’s Michelin GuideAn enduring bastion of the Hong 香港半島酒店之嘉麟樓中菜廳第二年 Kong dining scene, Spring Moon has 榮獲《米芝蓮指南香港澳門2018》been widely acclaimed for its classic yet 一星評級,再次肯定半島餐飲地位更innovative take on Cantonese fine dining 上一層樓and dim sum since its opening in 1986. Amaster of the full spectrum of traditional 嘉麟樓以一流粵菜佳餚及點心見稱,自1986Chinese cooking techniques, Chinese 年開幕後一直被譽為本港高級廣東菜的殿堂Cuisine Executive Chef Gordon Leung is 食府之一。掌舵的酒店中餐行政總廚梁燊龍known for creating dishes that perfectly 師傅精通粵菜烹調技巧,而且傳統創新兼balance tradition and innovation. 善,特別講究突出時令食材味道。梁師傅掌Drawing on an encyclopaedic knowledge 廚講求原汁原味、材料新鮮,其出眾廚藝深of ingredients and the intricacies oftheir flavours, Chef Leung places greatemphasis on the authenticity, freshnessfoodtalk ISSUE 45 31
INDUSTRY I AWARDScrambled eggs with shredded shrimps, crab meat and bean sprouts 得客人賞識,本港不少政經界 顯赫人士都是其知音人。 and flavours of each morsel, an approach that has won him a legion of fans that includes some of Hong 地區副總裁兼香港半島酒店及 Kong’s most powerful tycoons. 上海半島酒店常務董事張榮耀 先生表示︰「嘉麟樓今年再次 Mr Joseph Chong, Area Vice President and 摘得《米芝蓮》一星,酒店同 Managing Director, The Peninsula Hong Kong and 仁無比振奮,這殊榮不但表彰 The Peninsula Shanghai, heralded the win as: “An 團隊的努力及創意,同時亦肯 honour and a recognition of the standout talent 定了31年來歷任廚師與前線同 of Chinese Cuisine Executive Chef Gordon Leung 事的貢獻,令嘉麟樓多年來能 and his dedicated kitchen team. This is not only a 保持出品及服務水準穩定。」 testament to the hard work and creativity of the team at Spring Moon today, but also to the chefs and staff that have built the restaurant’s reputation for the past 31 years. We are incredibly proud that the restaurant will once again be recognised in this year’s Michelin Guide for Hong Kong and Macau.” Gordon Leung, Chinese Cuisine Executive Chef of Spring Moon32 foodtalk ISSUE 45
MACAU I CHEF’S TALKfoodtalk ISSUE 45 33
CHEF’S TALK I BEIJING Go with the FLO Groupe FLO Asia Executive Chef Andy Choy describes how he has grown since gaining international culinary experience and working in a rapidly changing China FT(Foodtalk): When did you first realise you had an Groupe FLO亞洲行政總廚Andy Choy娓娓道出, interest and natural ability in cooking? 多年來在國際美食世界累積的經驗及在中國這個瞬息 AC(Andy Choy): I wasn’t always well as a child and 萬變的社會中工作對其個人的影響 could only eat very bland food, which was frustrating as Malaysia is a place with such great cuisine – people can FT(Foodtalk): 你在什麼時候開始發現自己對烹飪感到興趣,並 eat five meals a day! By the time I was around 10 though 發掘到這份天賦才能? I was fine and eating 10 meals a day! It was also around AC(Andy Choy): 我小時候身體並不是很好,所以只能吃非常清 that time I realised I could cook better than anyone in my 淡的食物。馬來西亞是著名的美食天堂,人們一天可以吃五餐! family. 所以我當時並不太開心。但到了十歲時,我的健康情況有所改 善,一天甚至能吃得下十餐!大概在那個時候,我發現我煮的東 FT: You were clearly interested in French cuisine from an 西比家裏任何人還要好吃。 early age. What particularly attracted you? AC: When I started my career I worked in Bahrain, with FT: 你很早就對法國菜感到興趣。這種菜式有什麼特別的吸引之 customers including the royal family there. It was a French 處? fine dining environment and while working with that AC: 我在巴林開展自己的烹飪事業,食客包括眾多皇室成員,所 cuisine I realised how amazing it is and really fell in love 以可以說是在高級法國菜的用餐環境中工作。在過程中,我了解 with it. 到法國菜的奧妙之處,並且由衷地對法國菜著迷。 FT: You received a scholarship to study European cuisine in Switzerland. How did you achieve that and what did it mean to you? AC: I studied hard in college and really wanted to try for a34
Hokkaido scallops carpaccio, French langoustine, oyster cream, truffle and hazelnut vinaigrettescholarship. My teacher applied on my behalf and we were “ I realised how amazing French cuisinesuccessful. It was an amazing opportunity and my father is and really fell in love with it”even sold his car to support me while I was studying inSwitzerland! FT: 後來你獲得獎學金遠赴瑞士研究歐洲美食。你是怎樣做到 的?獎學金對你有何意義?FT: You worked at the Shanghai World Expo 2010 – what AC: 我在大學時非常努力學習,所以真的想一試身手摘取獎學did you do there and what was the experience like? 金。獎學金是我老師代我申請的,最後我們成功了!這真是一個AC: I was invited to work at the Swiss Pavilion at the 千載難逢的機會,在瑞士留學期間我的父親甚至賣掉汽車,也要Shanghai Expo initially as a translator. However I ended 支持我!up cooking Swiss cuisine around seven months! I was theonly Malaysian there and met a lot of great people. I really FT: 你曾在2010年參與上海世博會的工作,你在那裏做些什麼,enjoyed the experience in China. 有怎麼樣的體會? AC:我最初是以翻譯員的身份獲邀到上海世博會瑞士館工作。不FT: You are a big Gordon Ramsay fan and worked for 過,最終我負責烹調瑞士美食,為期大約七個月!我是那裏唯一several years at his Verre restaurant in Dubai. What do 的馬來西亞人,過程中我遇到了許多出類拔萃的人。我真的很嚮you most admire about him? 往那段在中國的經歷。AC: He is an amazing guy. After injury ended his athletecareer he went to France to follow his dream of learning FT: 你是 Gordon Ramsay 的忠實粉絲,在他位於杜拜的Verrehow to cook, started in a restaurant washing dishes 餐廳工作了好幾年。你最欣賞他什麼?and was soon managing the entire place. He is not just AC: 他真的是好極了。Gordon Ramsay以前是運動員,一次受a chef but also a genius. I really admire his spirit andperseverance.FT: As well as your native Malaysia you have trained orworked in the UK, France, the UAE, Bahrain and nowChina. How do you feel you have benefited from thisinternational experience?foodtalk ISSUE 45 35
CHEF’S TALK I BEIJING “Maintaining standards and differentiation is challenging...” AC: My studies and work in these places have given me the 傷結束了他的運動生涯,其後他去了法國,追求他的學廚夢。他 chance to learn from chefs all over the world, expanding 最初在一家餐廳由低做起負責洗碗,但很快就開始肩負起管理的 my knowledge and culinary skills. 重任。他不僅是一位名廚,更是一名天才。我非常佩服他的精神 和毅力。 FT: When you joined Groupe FLO the company sponsored you for training at Michelin restaurant Le FT: 除了家鄉馬來西亞之外,你也曾在英國、法國、阿聯酋、巴 Pont de l’Ouysse in Périgord with renowned Chef Daniel 林和現在身處的中國工作或接受培訓。你覺得你在這些國際經驗 Chambon. What did the experience teach you? 中有什麼得著? AC: I met not only Chef Daniel but many Michelin chefs. AC: 我在這些地方的學習成果和工作經驗,讓我有機會向世界各 Each has their own personality and ambition, and each has 地的名廚拜師學藝,豐富了我的知識,亦提升我的烹飪技能。 influenced my cooking in some way. FT: 當你加入福樓集團(Groupe FLO)時,該公司資助你在佩 FT: What was it like as part of the opening team for 里戈爾的Le Pont de l’Ouysse這間米芝蓮餐廳接受培訓,師承著 Brasserie FLO Tianjin and the reopening team for 名的Daniel Chambon。 你從中學到什麼? Brasserie FLO Beijing? AC:我不僅受教於Daniel Chambon,還遇到了許多米芝蓮名 AC: The first thing I was involved with after joining was 廚。他們每個人都有自己的個性和熱情,多位名廚都以某種方式 the opening of Brasserie FLO Tianjin; we then reopened 影響了我的烹飪事業。 Brasserie FLO Beijing in my second year! Supervising kitchen operations during those two experiences taught FT: 你對參與福樓天津(Brasserie FLO)開業以及福樓北京重 me a lot, especially about the importance of team spirit. 新開張有什麼感覺呢? AC: 加盟後我參與的第一件事就是福樓天津的開業;而在第二年 FT: You are now executive chef in charge of seven 則著手籌備福樓北京的重新開張!在這兩次開業中,我負責監督 Groupe FLO restaurants – two fine dining, a bistro, three 廚房的運作,這份經歷使我獲益良多,特別是關於團隊精神的重 cafes and the catering division, FLO Prestige. How do you 要性。 manage so many outlets while maintaining standards? AC: Maintaining standards and differentiation is FT: 你現在是管理七間福樓集團餐廳的行政總廚,當中包括兩間 challenging, especially as we want to keep prices 高級餐廳、一間小餐館、三間咖啡室和 FLO Prestige 這個餐飲 reasonable and build customer loyalty. We achieve this according to customer demographics. First we determine36
Canadian pork shoulder blade crepinette,French langoustine, truffle potato puree, bonne jusdishes and pricing based on the style of our various 部門。在同時管理這麼多餐廳的過程中,你如何確保能夠保持水outlets. We then follow these guidelines to grade 準?ingredients, and create promotion campaigns to target AC: 保持水準之餘又要確保與別不同,實在頗具挑戰,特別是當different groups of customers. 我們希望同時做到價格合理並建立客戶忠誠度。因此,我們會參 考客戶的相關統計資料以達致這目標。首先,我們因應不同店舖FT: Since opening in 1999 Brasserie FLO has been one 的風格,構思菜單和釐定價格。然後,我們按照這些指引將食材of Beijing’s most highly rated French restaurants. How 分為不同等級,並針對不同的客戶群體開展促銷活動。do you maintain this reputation in the face of growingcompetition? FT: 自1999年開業以來,福樓北京一直是北京最受好評的法國餐AC: We do a lot of promotions and themed activities, and 廳之一。面對日益激烈的競爭,你如何能夠保持這種聲譽?have different outlets to target different market segments. AC: 我們進行了大量的促銷和主題活動,並針對不同細分市場開In satisfying our customers’ requirements we sometimes 創各種營銷渠道。為了滿足客戶的要求,我們有時會依循市場趨follow market trends and sometimes lead them. 勢,但有時卻會引領市場。FT: Have attitudes towards French cuisine changed FT: 自福樓餐廳開業以來,人們對法國菜的態度有所轉變嗎?現since Brasserie FLO opened? Have knowledge and 時會多了本地人認識和欣賞這種菜式嗎?appreciation grown locally in this time? AC: 過往不少人認為法國菜有點高不可攀。然而,隨著生活水平AC: French cuisine was regarded as being somewhat 和收入提高,法國菜日益普及,更多人希望一嘗這種菜式。現時exclusive. However, as living standards and incomes 我們已經加添不同菜式,務求滿足顧客日益增加的需要。have improved and the products become increasinglyaccessible, more people want to explore them. We have FT: 你選用哪些安得利的產品?你對這些產品以及其相關服務有expanded our offering to meet these demands. 何看法? AC: 我們選用了牛油、忌廉、橄欖油和調味料。安得利是備受信FT: What Angliss products do you use, and what do you 賴的供應商,其產品品質優良,價格合理,且通過嚴格的安全監value about them and the service you receive? 控程序,我們對此營運方針亦推崇備至。簡而言之,我們對安得AM: We use their butter, cream, olive oil and seasonings. 利卓越的服務和良好的業務關係評價甚高。Angliss is a reliable supplier and also offers us goodingredients, reasonable prices and strict safety controls,which are key principles we share. We enjoy an excellentservice and a good business relationship.foodtalk ISSUE 45 37
38 foodtalk ISSUE 45
CHINA TALK I BEIJING BEIJING 北京 Angliss Beijing is among the First to Obtain theEnterprise Qualification Credit Certification on Food SafetyAngliss Beijing recently attended the 安得利北京公司受邀參加由經濟日報社主辦在北京召開3rd Food and National Safety Forum 的“第三屆食品與國家安全論壇”organised by the Economic Daily 本屆論壇以“新時代、新食品 、新資源、新安全”為主題,圍繞國家With the theme of “New Era, New Foods, 食品安全存在的問題與應對策略、食品安全與國民健康、創新驅動引 New Resources and New Safety”, the 領食品產業升級、食品企業市場行銷與品牌建設戰略等內容展開全面forum saw comprehensive discussions around the 探討。existing problems and possible solutions relatedto national food safety, food safety and national “食品安全產業聯盟” 於現場成立,同時,由政府代表為模範企業頒health, upgrading the food industry through 發了“食品安全企業”授牌,安得利(北京)食品貿易有限公司實至innovation, and the marketing and branding 名歸,作為行業代表首批通過了“食品安全企業資質信用認證”。strategies of food enterprises. 拿到這個授牌,回想公司二十多年來堅定食品安全付出的辛苦和汗The event witnessed the establishment of the 水,我們不忘理念,一路前行,不論形勢有利與否,不論路途艱險與“Food Safety Industry Alliance”. At the same time, 否,一切只為心中肯定的目標-致力成為中國餐飲服務食品供應鏈的專government representatives awarded food safety 業運營商。business licences to model enterprises. AnglissBeijing Food Service Limited, with well-deserved 39honour, represented the food industry as oneof the first to obtain the Enterprise QualificationCredit Certification on Food Safety.This certification is testimony to the hard workand perseverance of the company over the lasttwenty-odd years on food safety. We will neverforget our mission, regardless of adversity anddifficulties, to strive to become the PremiumProfessional Food Supplier to China’s CateringService Supply Chain.foodtalk ISSUE 45
CHINA TALK I SHANGHAI Angliss Shanghai 10th Anniversary Dinner Angliss Shanghai recently held a 10th anniversary dinner to thank customers and brand partners for their support We would like to thank our old customers 為慶祝創業十週年,Angliss Shanghai who have stood by us, and our new 舉辦了一場晚宴以答謝客戶及品牌的合 customers for being increasingly interested in 作夥伴 our offerings. They are the driving force behind our success. At the same time, we would like 我們感謝堅守在 Angliss Shanghai 身邊的老客戶及 to thank our brand partners – President from 逐步青睞我們的新客戶們,對於我們這是發展至今的 France for its high-end dairy products, Fabbri 中堅力量。同時也向眾多品牌的合作夥伴們致謝, from Italy for its classic western desserts and 感謝法國總統 President 高端乳製品、意大利法布 drinks, Silver Fern Farms from New Zealand 芮 Fabbri 百年經典西點與飲品、紐西蘭銀蕨 Silver and Rosedale Ruby from Australia for their Fern Farms 及澳洲 Rosedale Ruby 優質牛肉品 premium beef products, and Cacao Barry from 牌、法國可可百利Cacao Barry高端巧克力等等,感 France for its quality chocolate. We are grateful 謝他們與我們肩並肩、手牽手,致力為客戶們服務。 for their support in our efforts in offering the best service to our customers. Angliss Shanghai 同仁親手以美食作畫,用最真實 的心意和最誠摯的感情贈與我們每個品牌商,更傳遞 All of us at Angliss Shanghai have crafted this creation by hand for every one of our brand partners, using our wonderful foods and infused with our most sincere and heart-felt gratitude, and to reflect our firm belief that great food and great beauty go hand-in-hand.40
SHANGHAI 上海2018 will see us ever more dedicated 了我們致力打造美食與美學雙重結合的品to creating high quality foods. 質理念。Firmly adhering to our motto of“Understanding Your Needs”, we will 2018年,我們將以更加認真及謙遜的態度do our utmost to offer even better 對待美食,堅守 “懂你所需” 的宗旨,致力foodstuffs and more professional 於為大家提供更優質的食材與更專業的技technical services. We hope that 術服務。希望明年可以加入更多的夥伴們next year, more brand partners will 與我們一起以餐會友,共敘情誼。be able to dine with us to celebrateour friendship and success.foodtalk ISSUE 45 41
CHINA TALK I GUANGZHOU Asian and French Delicacies to Excite your Taste Buds! To thank customers for their support over the year, Angliss has prepared a scrumptious “family dinner” - we treat our customers as family. But this is no ordinary family meal, as every detail was taken care of to create a mouth-watering feast We have invited Chef Yahui Liu who has just returned from studying in a Michelin-starred restaurant in France for the first showcase of his skills, as well as Ricky Li and Oscar She, both experienced Technical Consultants of Western Cuisine at Angliss Guangzhou, to present clients with a feast for the eyes and taste-buds. This extraordinary culinary exchange featured a range of premium ingredients from Angliss Guangzhou, including beef from New Zealand’s Silver Fern Farms, Rosedale Ruby beef from Australia, Qing Nong Qingyuan Chicken, Iberian pork from Spain, M Chefs’ frozen duck liver, Clearwater frozen scallops from Canada, Simple Chef’s range of sauces, President’s butter and cream, Livia olive oil and Tartufi Morra from Italy, Boiron fruit purees, Falksalt sea salt and many more. Chef Liu’s wonderful interpretation of Angliss’s high-quality ingredients has crafted a number of creative and delicious dishes which elicited much appreciation from those present. Angliss Guangzhou will continue to bring customers even better ingredients and more innovative dishes to enhance your culinary experience. Angliss is committed to providing you with professional culinary solutions. We truly understand your needs and are your partner to success.42
GUANGZHOU 廣州 法亞料理美饡紛享,驚豔你的味蕾! 安得利為答謝各客戶一年來的厚愛,精心而備的家宴。說 是家宴,是因為安得利待客如家人,但功夫絕不馬虎 我們邀請到剛從法國米其林食府深造回國,並是回來後首次演繹菜式的 劉亞輝師傅,以及廣州安得利資深西餐技術顧問李宇琪、佘景祥為大家 帶來最新鮮的味蕾體驗和視覺盛宴。 本次美食交流會精選來自廣州安得利福斯提供的一系列優質及安全食 材,包括紐西蘭銀蕨農場牛肉、澳洲 Rosedale Ruby牛肉、清農優選 休眠雞、西班牙伊比利亞豬肉、名廚之家急凍鴨肝、Clearwater急凍帶 子、廚易贊系列醬汁、總統牛油及淡奶油、莉薇安橄欖油、塔菲摩拉松 露醬、寶茸果泥、Falksalt海鹽等等。 劉師傅的精彩演繹和安得利的優質食材相互碰撞出美食靈感與創意火 花,令現場客人紛紛讚好。未來,廣州安得利會繼續為客戶提供更優質 的食材,設計更創新的菜式,為您帶來更精彩極致的美食體驗。安得利 隨時為您提供專業解決方案,真正做到懂您所需,是您身邊的成功伴 侶。foodtalk ISSUE 45 43
CHINA TALK I SHENZHEN A Showcase of Angliss Shenzhen’s Fresh Chilled Beef Rosedale Ruby fresh chilled beef is not just safe and natural, it offers strict quality assurance guidelines and as a natural product is becoming increasingly popular On 18 December, Angliss Shenzhen Rosedale Ruby冰鮮牛肉不只是天然 Food Service Limited showcased its 安全,更採用完善的科學系統檢測及 fresh chilled beef products. The event was 順應自然法則,受到大眾的歡迎 very well attended, with many customers showing great interest and enthusiasm. 12月18日,安得利深圳食品有限公司舉辦的” The event saw Angliss launching its new 冰鮮牛肉發佈會”非常熱鬧,吸引了眾多客戶 offering - Rosedale Ruby’s chilled beef 踴躍參加。發佈會上,安得利宣佈肉中貴族 — products, often regarded as amongst Rosedale Ruby冰鮮牛肉,現已登陸安得利深 the best. From original vaccination, 圳,從原料檢疫、屠宰、排酸到剔骨、包裝、 slaughtering, chilling, deboning, 運輸、貯藏、銷售的全過程始終處於嚴格監控 packaging, transport, to storage and sales, 下,遵循肉類生物化學基本規律,使得牛肉在 the entire process is strictly monitored. 冷藏溫度下經歷了充分的成熟過程,肉質鮮 All the biochemical principles related 嫩、汁液流失少、口感好、滋味鮮美,並且因 to meat production have been carefully 為採用科學系統監測和操控,使牛肉擁有更好 followed, so that the beef undergoes a full maturation process under refrigeration. This results in tender and juicy meats44
SHENZHEN 深圳which have a pleasing texture and delicious taste. More importantly, thanks 的穩定性。對於廚師們而言,冰鮮肉不to the scientific monitoring and controlling system, the beef’s quality is more 用退冰使用更為方便,不僅有著口感保stable and reliable. There is good news for chefs too: the chilled beef products 證,使用真空包裝的冰鮮牛肉色澤鮮need not be defrosted before use and therefore the taste would not be 豔,肌紅蛋白亦不會褐變,即使解開包compromised. What’s more, the vacuum packaging enables the chilled beef to 裝後也能保存更久時間。retain its bright colour as the myoglobin is less likely to turn a brownish colour.Even after the packaging has been removed, the products can be kept for a 每一片Rosedale Ruby A+上等的自longer period of time. 有放養牛肉,均來自優秀的獲獎安格 斯-夏洛萊牛,每只牛都不超過36個月Each piece of Rosedale Ruby A+ premium free-range beef comes from award- 大,肉質鮮嫩、頂尖品質、多重認證,winning premium Angus-Charolaise cattle. Each animal is no more than 36 維持著最佳的品質!months old and thus provides tender top-quality meat which attracts multiplecertifications and maintains the highest quality standards.foodtalk ISSUE 45 45
TALK FRESH I CHOCOLATEArt that’s Good Enough to Eat “Stéphane Leroux’s When it comes to creativity in chocolate, pastry new book blurs the professionals might think they have seen it all.line between chocolate Stéphane Leroux’s new book “Bleu Chocolat” proves this might not be the case. The unique and art” book unveils over 100 pieces of chocolate creations including marble, fish, ceramics and more which look nothing like chocolate, but are sure to whet creative appetites “Bleu Chocolat” is the result of Leroux’s collaboration with Belcolade, Puratos’ authentic Belgian chocolate brand of. It offers a rich source of inspiration, and includes a step-by-step guide for chocolate and pastry professionals to create similar pieces of their own.Stéphane Leroux 朱古力的創意界限可以推到多遠?甜品專業人士可能會認為, 他們對朱古力已經知之甚詳。但 Stéphane Leroux 的新書 Bleu Chocolat就顛覆傳統想法。這本別樹一幟的專書呈現逾 百件以朱古力製作的精美藝術品,包括栩栩如生的大理石、魚 群、陶瓷等等,它們看起來雖然一點都不像朱古力,但肯定會 激起你對創意美食藝術品的食欲 Bleu Chocolat是Leroux與Belcolade攜手合作的成果,而Belcolade為 Puratos的正宗比利時朱古力品牌。這本書能提供豐富的靈感來源,並包含 詳盡的指南,讓朱古力和糕點從業員可以一步一步製作類似的作品。46 foodtalk ISSUE 45
TALK FRESH I CHOCOLATE Beton-Coffre 47foodtalk ISSUE 45
TALK FRESH I CHOCOLATE“We support our technical advisors in their creations Puratos集團董事局主席Eddy Van Belle指出:「我們給予and innovations and are proud to provide a platform for 公司的技術顧問極大自由度,讓他們發揮無窮創意。並透過本Mr. Leroux via this book. “Bleu Chocolat” is remarkable 書為Leroux先生提供平台,展現其創意和才藝,我們深感榮because it allows him to share his knowledge about 幸。Bleu Chocolat是一本不可多得的作品,讓世界各地熱愛朱chocolate with chocolate passionates around the world,” 古力的人士能夠認識更多有關朱古力的知識。」said Eddy Van Belle, Chairman of the board of PuratosGroup. Belcolade是Puratos旗下地道的比利時朱古力品牌,公司以開 發獨特的口味而聞名於世。這些眾多味道均獨一無二,能為全Belcolade, the real Belgian chocolate brand of Puratos, 球頂級的朱古力技師、麵包師和糕點師帶來靈感,協助他們創is renowned for its experience in developing specific 作令人垂涎的朱古力食品。flavours according to individual requirements. This results Vietnam chocolate blood orange bite Vietnam chocolate praline tartLa-raie-ge Ante48 foodtalk ISSUE 45
Clairmarais Porcelaine Vietnam mango passion fruit chocolate cake Belcolade的朱古力研發中心不斷尋找製造朱古力的創新方式, 並致力與同業交流,分享其獨特意念、最佳實踐、創意食譜,in a unique and unlimited palate of flavours designed to 以及試驗性質的製品等等。inspire and support the world’s best chocolatiers, bakersand pastry chefs. In its Chocolate Center, Belcolade Belcolade的朱古力以精挑細選的可可豆製成,並使用純可is constantly looking for innovative ways to work with 可脂和純天然香草,配合傳統的比利時生產工藝在當地的chocolate, to share ideas, best practices, new recipes and Erembodegem工廠獨家生產。experiments. http://bleuchocolat.belcolade.com/Belcolade chocolate is made from carefully selectedcocoa beans, using solely pure cocoa butter and pure, 49natural vanilla, and exclusively manufactured in theErembodegem plant in Belgium, according to thetraditional Belgian production process.foodtalk ISSUE 45
HEALTH TALK I TIPS OF THE SEASON Eating your way to Spring Health Many of us piled on a few pounds over winter, Spring is on us, and if a few and as warmer weather beckons are keen to months of comfort eating and get back into shape. While exercise is of course an extra glasses of wine have slowed essential part of weight loss, it’s been proved that you down, now is the time to diet is 70% responsible for this. shake off the winter blues There is no shortage of trendy diets and health fads that claim to help with this – from turmeric, matcha, kale, spirulina, reishi and cordyceps, seaweed, quinoa, fava and more, the list of quick-fix ingredients continues to grow. The truth is, of course, more simple and common sense than this. While these esoteric elements can unquestionably contribute to a balanced diet, the fastest and most effective way towards weight loss and a healthier lifestyle is lighter proteins, more vegetables and smaller portions. So what lighter proteins are we talking about? Fish, chicken and lean red meats such as lamb and beef can all make a big difference. As well as this, try to increase your intake of vegetables and beans, fruit, grains and cereals, complex carbohydrates, couscous, oats, quinoa and barley, eggs, tofu, nuts and seeds and light yoghurts and cheeses. As well as weight loss, lighter proteins and vegetables are key in reducing the risk of obesity and chronic cardiovascular disease, diabetes and cancers.50
Search