ML Cookbook 2020_Eng-23-3.1-sev

The Four Seasons of MALARTIC STORIES & RECIPES FROM THE BONNIE FAMILY

Visit Us In the heart of the Graves, the oldest wine region in Bordeaux, Château Malartic-Lagravière is a perfect example of the harmonious relationship that has been created between the vine-covered gravel slopes that form part of France’s national heritage, and the classic buildings steeped in history that are partly buried into the landscape Wine tourism has always been a major focus for the Bonnie family and their team at Malartic. From their arrival, they have worked on making the estate a great place to visit, or in which to host events. Their reward has been in the annual growth in the number of visitors. The site is simply sumptuous, and any visit to Malartic includes a complete tour. Guests can follow the grapes’ journey from the rows of vines bordering the cellars where the earth is ploughed by horses rather than weeded, to the harvest reception area where each container of freshly-picked fruit is delivered by the pickers. From there, the visitor can see the vats and presses and the aging cellar where the barrels are stored. Then, they will have the chance to wander through the park on the other side of the building where it is clear how much care has been taken of the whole environment. Inside the chateau, a range of workshops are offered, including food and wine pairing, cooking classes, and the chance to taste and compare wines from Bordeaux and Argentina. Discovering Malartic means entering the world of the Bonnie family and living an unforgettable experience!

The Four Seasons of MALARTIC STORIES & RECIPES FROM THE BONNIE FAMILY

Acknowledgements With thanks to Robert Joseph and Polly Hammond for helping to bring the book to life and Robert Joseph for contributions to the text. Georgina Fuggle who cooked and styled all of the dishes with assistance from prop stylist Julie Patmore, and Catharine Lowe who photographed them. Anne Burchett for editing and translation. The team at Malartic. Image Credits Archives de Bordeaux metropole: 11 Xavier Bellenger: 22 Mickael Boudot: 28, 96 Alain Benoit: 06, 62, 96 Commanderie du Bontemps: 46 Philippe Dufreynoy 71 Hervé Lefebvre 12, 98 Catharine Lowe: 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 65, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 81, 83, 85, 87, 89, 91 Virginie Ohrensstein: 16, 22 /24, 33, 37, 44, 51, 53, 55, 67, 71, 73, 85, 92, 94, 98, 101 Taylor & Yandell: 12, 20, 28, 78 front and back cover Commanderie du Bontemps: 46 ISBN: 9 782492 875007 © 2021 C2P Editions Published by C2P Editions 5, Les Bauchers 89120 Charny France

Contents Visit Us 02 Œufs Pochés aux Lentilles Vertes 52 Acknowledgements 04 Caesar Salad 54 Contents 05 Poisson à la Bordelaise 56 A few words from Alfred Bonnie 07 Filet de Bœuf au Barbecue, Sauce Béarnaise 58 Foreword by Robert Joseph 08 AUTUMN 61 Why this book? 09 Harvest 63 The History of Bordeaux 11 Velouté de Petits Pois 64 The Graves Region 13 Empanadas de DiamAndes 66 History of Malartic 15 Soles Grillées Sauce aux Champignons 68 The Bonnie Family at Malartic 17 Omelette aux Cèpes 70 The Argentine Adventure 19 Pain de Viande 72 Malartic and the Arts 21 Confit de Canard, Pommes Sarladaises 74 Bordeaux Gastronomy 23 WINTER 77 Matching Food and Wine 25 Blending 79 SPRING 27 Paupiettes Oiseaux sans Tête 80 En Primeur 29 Moules Marinières & Frites 82 Fraicheur de Tourteau 30 Stoemp 84 Steak Tartare de Michèle 32 Filets Mignons de Porc aux Morilles 86 Linguine alle Vongole 34 Gigot de Sept Heures, Fondue de Carottes 88 Dos de Cabillaud, Fondue de Poireaux 36 Oie de Noël, Farcie aux Morilles et Marrons 90 Entrecôte Bordelaise 38 Ingredients & Tips 93 Frites de Jean-Jacques 40 Serving Wine 95 Carré d’Agneau & son Gratin Dauphinois 42 Wine Tasting 97 SUMMER 45 How Wine is Made 99 Fête de la Fleur 47 Vintages 101 Terrine de Poisson 48 The Bonnie Family Wines 102 Tarte Fine à la Tomate 50 05

06

A few words from Alfred Bonnie This is a very personal book, full of family stories and Finally, we settled in France where the family grew with recipes we enjoy eating as a family. Fortunately perhaps, the arrival of our children, Véronique and Jean-Jacques - I was not allowed to include any of the dishes I used to and the dream grew too. After a few decades, and much cook when I was young and single in New York City, but searching, that dream became reality when Château in compensation, I was invited to contribute these few Malartic-Lagravière, and a little later, Château Gazin- words! Rocquencourt also joined the family. My relationship with wine started very early. I must And so, in the early 2000s did Jean Jacques’ wife Séverine, have been seven years old when my father asked me to and then their twins, Jeanne and Alexandre, and then help him tidy his cellar after the arrival of a few cases of Véronique’s husband, Bruno, and their three children, Bordeaux and Burgundy. Then, when I was 10, during Sébastien, Astrid and Guillaume. a major family celebration, I had my first chance to dip my lips into a glass of Sauternes. It was a real treat! If we have found a permanent harbour with our estate in Later, little by little, I was lucky enough to discover some Bordeaux, we have also begun an exciting new adventure amazing wines and vintages. All this remained in my on the other side of the world, with the creation in subconscious. Argentina’s Uco valley, of Bodega DiamAndes. In the season when the vines at Malartic are asleep, the soils and After studying and marrying Michèle, we both traveled climate allow us to produce wonderfully different wines widely in the United States, Argentina and Europe. Wine that reflect some of the other facets of our personality as a was always on the table and, as we enjoyed and talked family. about it, maybe, without knowing, we were both building a dream of one day producing our own wine. 07

Foreword by Robert Joseph What is Bordeaux? A place? A wine? An idea? opened for my mother and myself. It was a 1955: my birth year. And I remember the whites of the 1990s produced I have been tasting and thinking and writing about at a time when serious Bordeaux Blanc struggled for wine for nearly four decades and Bordeaux has never recognition and good examples like Malartic’s were rare. ceased to fascinate me. When I lived in the region, while But I also recall my frustration at some of the red vintages researching a book, I was daily reminded that this part of of those days. It was like watching a tennis player you France has always simultaneously been quintessentially knew could do better. French and a mosaic of crucial contributions from outsiders. From the Romans who planted vineyards 2,000 What the Bonnies, and then their son and daughter years ago, through the English who created trade routes and their spouses, have done at Malartic over the last 25 that have flourished for nearly a millennium, to the Dutch years demonstrates that, yes, wine is made in the soil, but who drained the swamps, and the Irish and, of course, the it doesn’t make itself. It’s like sheet music waiting for a Belgians who became an essential part of the Bordeaux musician to translate it into sound. The Bonnies’ vines are trade. certainly lucky to have been planted in a great patch of earth, but it has taken real commitment, energy and skill I have had a particular reason for following the to create the wines we are seeing today. contributions of one family of Belgians over the years because of an enduring affection for Malartic-Lagravière, I congratulate Alfred, Michèle, Véronique, Jean-Jacques, the chateau Alfred and Michèle Bonnie bought in 1997. Séverine and Bruno on what they have achieved, and I have special memories of the bottle that Oz Clarke, the welcome this invitation in words and pictures to share a British author of a great book on Bordeaux, so generously little of the life they lead in the Bordeaux they love. 08

Why this book? This book is not a cookbook, a book about the history When the pandemic hit the planet at the beginning of of Bordeaux or a winemaking manual. It’s a family book 2020, everything came to a halt. No more visits, no more about the Bonnie family who had already already been trips, no more tastings and wine dinners. Anchored in transplanted to France from their native Belgium when Bordeaux, the Bonnie's decided to share their daily life Alfred and Michèle found their way to Bordeaux, full of at the estate via digital media and online tastings that a passion for wine and looking for a new adventure. That involved sending samples to customers across the globe. enthusiasm has been passed on and, 25 years later, their children and grandchildren also have the soul of Bordeaux But these exchanges lack the companionship of a good running through their veins. meal and the warm art de vivre that make visitors to Malartic feel truly at home. Cooking is a spiritual art, The new generation is now at the head of the a pleasure that needs to be shared. And that is how the family's three properties: the Bordeaux Grand Cru Bonnies came to create this family book: a personal Classé Malartic-Lagravière and its neighbour Gazin collection of recipes and family stories. Rocquencourt, and the majestic Bodega DiamAndes estate in Argentina. This book reveals a little of their daily life on the estate and through the seasons, and the secrets behind the The Bonnies live at the chateau and receive guests production of one of the great classed growths of throughout the year, but they also cross the Atlantic Bordeaux, but also anecdotes linked to the 24 traditional to follow the progress of the vines and wines in South and contemporary family recipes within its pages. America, and travel the world hosting tastings for professionals and enthusiasts. The life of a winegrower The Bonnie family wanted this book to reflect their is varied, and packed with encounters and shared personalities and to bring them closer to wine lovers experiences that give it a unique philosophical quality. everywhere. 09

10

The History of Bordeaux If you look at a map of the world, Bordeaux is located carry wine to a thirsty English court. And even if the just south of the 45th parallel, almost exactly between the French victory at the Battle of Castillon, east of Bordeaux equator and the North Pole. Bordeaux enjoys an average on 17 July 1453, freed Aquitaine from the English crown annual sunshine of 2,200 hours, very like that of resorts on after 300 years, the wine trade survived and grew. the Mediterranean coast, and a remarkably mild climate, thanks to the influence of the Gulf Stream. The 17th and 18th centuries saw a boom in wine production similar to the one experienced in California A Bronze Age tribe called Bituriges Vivisci was among in the 1970s, leading to a recognition of the differences the region’s earliest settlers in the fifth century BC. Then in style and quality between regions and individual the Romans arrived and built Burdigala, on the site of properties - the chateaux. the city now known as Bordeaux. The first vineyards they planted almost 2000 years ago were in Saint Emilion If the draining of the Medoc marshes by the Dutch in and close to Malartic in the area that would be called the the 17th century helped to make Bordeaux's fortune, Graves. the planting of the Landes forest on the marshes of the southern Gironde, two years after the French Revolution The Medoc, famous today for chateaux such as Lafite, of 1789, created a protective barrier for Bordeaux’s Latour, Margaux and Mouton Rothschild, had to wait vineyards against the salty ocean Atlantic breezes. another 1500 years to really emerge. At the time it was essentially a mosquito infested marshland where malaria As the number of chateaux multiplied in the 19th century, was rampant. the region’s wine merchants established classifications based on the prices of their wines. The one used for Wine production in the Graves was reserved for local the Paris Great Universal Exhibition of 1855 ranked consumption until the explosion of Bordeaux as a wine- the chateaux of the Medoc and one in Graves into five growing region in the 12th century, when the marriage levels of classified growths that have survived almost in 1152 of the English king Henry II and Eleanor of unchanged until the present day. A century later, a similar Aquitaine brought the region under English rule. classification was introduced in Saint-Emilion, and 1953, brought one for the Graves where Château Malartic- The broad Gironde estuary where the Dordogne and Lagravière stands out among the six estates classified for Garonne rivers meet was perfect for boats that would both their reds and whites. 11

12

The Graves Region There is much to be said about the Graves region, but merchant. Nine years later, Haut-Brion was also one of perhaps the most remarkable fact is that it is the only the first properties that Thomas Jefferson, his successor, region producing great wines that bears the name of its visited on his arrival as US ambassador to France. soil - the Graves, a mixture of gravel and pebbles dating back to the quaternary period which began over two and The vineyards of the Graves are the closest to the city of a half million years ago. Probably the earliest region in Bordeaux. The best are located in the northern part of the Bordeaux where the Romans tended vines, it was also one region, where an elite group of 14 Crus Classés including of the first to map its vineyards in the twelfth century. Haut-Brion, Pape Clément, Domaine de Chevalier, Haut- Bailly, Smith Haut Lafitte and Malartic-Lagravière are Five hundred years later, a Graves estate, Château Haut- grouped together. Brion, became the world's first wine brand thanks to the efforts by its owner, Arnaud III de Pontac in London. In 1987, this area which has the finest soil in the Graves, Not content with selling his wine to King Charles II of was given its own appellation, Pessac-Léognan. The England and his courtiers, Pontac opened a tavern in vineyards here have more than doubled in size, thanks in London, the Royal Oak, to satisfy a wider audience. It part to the growing reputation of the highly sought-after was there, in 1663, that the English diarist, Samuel Pepys white wines, that account for a fifth of the area planted. recorded drinking \" a sort of French wine called Ho Bryen The dynamism and harmonious relationship of the that hath a good and most particular taste I never met select group of estates here has also played a part in the with”. recognition of Pessac-Léognan wines, both red and white. In 1778, as Jane Anson reported in Decanter magazine, The reds are increasingly attracting growing attention the future president of the United States, John Adams, and positive reviews and scores, as wine lovers around included 'Hautbrion' in a list of 'premiers Crous de Vin' the world look for the elegance and balance that are that had been recommended to him by a Bordeaux wine particularly associated with Crus Classés such as Malartic. 13

14

History of Malartic Two hundred years ago, the estate we now know as who loved the sea so much that he left his wife to run the Malartic-Lagravière was simply known as Domaine de estate. Lagravière. Its name referred to the fact that the stones in the soil of its vineyards extend eight metres into the earth, In 1953, the chateau became one of only six Graves estate giving it some of the best, most gravelly, land in a region to be ranked as Crus Classés for both red and white, and famed for its gravel. the reputation of its whites grew to be among the best of the region. For much of the 20th century, however, the In 1803 it was bought by the family of one of Louis XV’s quality of the reds was less consistent. As the critic, Neal most successful admirals, Comte Hippolyte de Maurès de Martin, wrote in Vinous “The wines never reached their Malartic who had distinguished himself by his victories full potential.” over the English, most notably at the Battle of Quebec in 1756. It is Malartic’s schooner, the Minerve, that appears In the 1990s, the de Nonancourt family, owners of on the label of every bottle today. Laurent Perrier, raised the quality by improving viticulture and reducing yields. Sadly, however, their ownership The decision to add Malartic’s name to that of the estate of the estate was cut short by the financial crisis of the was taken in 1860 by a subsequent owner, a woman called time and the need to focus attention on their business in Madame Angèle Ricard. We do not know much about Champagne. her, but, in an age when women were firmly expected to take a secondary role, she was apparently known as ‘le Malartic was, in the words of one observer, “a Sleeping grand homme de la famille’ - the big man of the family. Beauty, waiting for her prince”. When her son Jean died in 1908, the chateau passed to his son-in-law, another sea captain called Lucien Ridoret 15

16

The Bonnie Family at Malartic In 1997, when Belgian-born Alfred Bonnie first saw confirmed on a second visit with their son Jean-Jacques Château Malartic-Lagravière, he had almost given up who was about to begin military service. “We had to on his quest to buy a wine estate in Bordeaux. A very compete with several bidders” Bonnie says “including the successful businessman in France, he had worked for families of neighbouring chateaux.” Winning this battle the American advertising agency McCann in US and was only the first step. If it was to live up to its potential, Argentina before, in 1988, buying Eau Ecarlate, a product they known Malartic would need lots of effort and love. originally used to revive the colours of the uniforms of Napoleon’s troops. Under Bonnie’s management, the “We began work on the vineyards immediately, and modern incarnation of Eau Ecarlate seemed to find its brought in the top local experts, Denis Dubourdieu and way into almost every French and European household, Michel Rolland as consultants for the white and red but after a while, as he says, “the business almost ran respectively”. A new cuverie was built that allowed grapes itself ”. It was time for him and his wife Michèle to do and wine to be moved more gently, by gravity. something else. He wasn’t ready to retire, despite the appeal of having more time to play golf, and his mind Six years after the purchase, Jean-Jacques Bonnie began kept returning to wine. studying winemaking at Bordeaux university and arrived to help run the estate. Accompanying him was his As a child, growing up in Brussels, he had been wife Séverine whom he had met at business school in introduced to red wine by his father who had a lovingly- Champagne. In 2006, Véronique, Jean-Jacques’s sister also tended cellar. “I remember handling the bottles, all the joined the family business. Today, this new generation different labels and the aromas…” and being particularly manages the chateau and the family’s wine estate in seduced by a Cheval Blanc 1961”, Alfred says. The dream Argentina. of owning his own vineyard was always in the background, but in the mid 1990s, when he was finally in a position As Jane Anson says in her book Inside Bordeaux, “I have to buy one in Bordeaux, the search was far harder than watched as [the Bonnie family] have turned an under- he’d imagined. “We must have seen fifty or more” he says. performing, if extremely beautiful, chateau into one of “Over nearly three years, we made so many trips from the most admired in the appellation”. Vinous critic, Neal Paris. Finally, an agent called to say, “there’s this one that Martin, goes further. “The investments under the Bonnie has just come on the market.” family have transformed the estate from one that lagged behind its peers into one of the front-runners not just From the moment they saw the chateau, Alfred and within the appellation, but in Bordeaux.” Michèle Bonnie knew it was ‘the one’, a view that was 17

18

The Argentine Adventure “I loved living in Argentina,” says Alfred Bonnie. That's more like a freshly-mined rough diamond. Their driving why, when Michel Rolland invited him to join a group ambition was to cut and polish and make it into a real of Bordeaux producers to make wine there, he was jewel. Playing on the name of the ‘diamond lake’ - Lago tempted. It was too early, however. “We still had too del diamante - a little higher in the Andes, they called the much to do in Malartic”. In 2005, however, he decided bodega DiamAndes. that the time was right. The whole family loved the idea, especially Véronique who had discovered a passion for The wines are highly successful internationally, especially this exciting and captivating New World country, with in North America where the Malbec developed a terroirs and traditions that are so different from those particular following. In 2011, the estate won the of Bordeaux. In Pessac-Léognan, the vines grow at an prestigious Golden Best of Wine Tourism International altitude of under 100m; the Bonnie vineyards, in the Uco Award, organised by Great Wines Capitals, for its valley at the foot of the snow-covered Andes mountains, architecture and gardens and, more recently, its Diam’s are over a thousand metres higher. And while Cabernet restaurant won the 2021 Argentina Best of Wine Tourism Sauvignon thrives on their estates on both sides of the Award. And, despite its location at the end of a bumpy world, in Argentina it is often relegated to second place road, Tripadvisor has listed Bodega DiamAndes as one of behind Malbec, which today is a rarity in Bordeaux. the top tourist attractions in the Mendoza region, both Other grape varieties that have no place in this part of for its architecture, nestled in the breathtaking Andean France, but which give excellent results at DiamAndes are landscape, and for the welcome offered by the staff. Chardonnay, Syrah and Viognier. While the Bonnie's mission at Malartic could have been compared to restoring an ancient painting, the wager they faced with their 130 hectares of vines in Argentina was 19

20

Malartic and the Arts When they arrived at Malartic, Alfred and Michèle its emblematic boat. This unique work can be seen today Bonnie set absolute quality as the priority, both in the hanging in the Palais de Justice in Bordeaux. vineyard and in the cellars, which were built in less than a year in order to equip the property with a completely new Music is also a theme that has punctuated life in Malartic. facility in which to ferment the juice, combining tradition At the Fête de la Fleur, the international Modigliani with state-of-the-art techniques. Just as interested in the Quartet accompanied the arrival of each wine with restoration of the chateau and its gardens, they asked their a carefully selected piece. This was followed by an architects to integrate them into the landscape of the unforgettable private concert by the Israeli singer Yael vineyards, so as to set the Malartic’s magnificent gravel Naim, writer of New Soul, the international hit selected outcrop into perspective. by Apple to promote its Macbook Air laptops. Adopting the ideas of the Italian Renaissance and 17th In 2004, the world-famous violinist Mstislav century France, the gardens poetically share the annual Rostropovitch stayed at the château with the Bonnie cycle that punctuates the activities of the estate, with family for the fifth edition of the Rencontres Musicales visitors who walk amongst them. An effort that was Internationales des Graves, and left indelible memories rewarded \"Remarkable Gardens\" in 2008. with the warmth of the exchanges they had around some of the greatest vintages of Malartic. The Bonnies love art, and have decorated the chateau with a series of paintings by their friend, the famous French Cinema – known in France as the ‘Seventh Art’ – is also artist, Michel Henry, to capture the landscape and the one of the Bonnies’ major interests. Great movies and château for posterity. great wines provoke the emotions with the stories they have to tell. Malartic teamed up with Charlize Theron at In 2017, the family and Malartic were given the huge the gala dinner of the American Cinematheque in honour honour of hosting 1,500 hand-picked guests for the of her career in 2019. A year later, they collaborated with prestigious Fête de la Fleur dinner, whose timing also 20th Century studios, to auction an Imperial (a bottle allowed them to celebrate three anniversaries: of the containing six litres of wine) of the 2016 vintage signed birth of the Pessac-Léognan appellation, of Alfred and by Sir Kenneth Branagh, director, star and producer of the Michèle’s wedding and of their arrival at the chateau. film Death on the Nile, in aid of the men's health charity, The importance of this unforgettable event gave them Movember. This is only the beginning, as a number the opportunity to commission additional works of art, of other cinematic projects and associations are in the including a seven-metre-long canvas imagined by the pipeline... artist Federica Matta around the world of Malartic and 21

22

Bordeaux Gastronomy Although France has many places where it is good to found nowhere else is the lamprey, an ancient breed of eel live, Bordeaux seems to be one of the best, thanks to its without fins or jaws. This creature has a place in history, culinary and cultural riches and its position on the map, having led to the death of the English king, Henry I, within easy reach of the sea and the mountains. who was said to have eaten a ‘surplus’ of them. Modern generations are, it has to be said, rather less enthusiastic This fortunate location is reflected in the diversity of about lampreys than the produce of the region’s six caviar products on offer in the local markets, but there are some farms that have been launched in recent years. specialities that are particularly associated with the region. The small local Cèpes mushrooms, known locally as Traditionally, the Bordeaux region was better suited to bouchons bordelais (and in Italy as porcini), are very farming sheep than cattle and the 'agneaux de Pauillac' popular in autumn but their availability varies from year – Pauillac lambs - raised in the Médoc, have made a to year. reputation for their quality as well as for the way they go with the region's red wines. Those who love a good steak The same is true of the black truffles which come from the will appreciate the 'Boeuf de Bazas' - originating from the Périgord, about two hours drive to the east of Bordeaux. town of Bazas, to the south-west of Bordeaux, one of the Fans of this delicacy are advised to go to Perigueux or best places to find local, golden-hued, Blonde d'Aquitaine Sorges where they are sold at specialised weekly markets. cattle. Finally, there is a Bordeaux speciality rarely found The people of Bordeaux also appreciate rustic and savoury elsewhere: small, round, sweet pastries called canelés goat's cheeses such as the local, farm-produced Tomme that appear at the end of many dinners and are directly de Chèvre Fermière, as well as sheep's cheeses from the related to wine. Traditionally, winemakers used to ‘fine’ - Basque country about 100 km or 62 miles away. clarify - their wine with egg whites. At a rate of six whites per barrel, they were left with a lot of yolks, so someone The Atlantic contains a multitude of fish and shellfish, but invented a recipe for pastries with a creamy centre and local freshwater fishermen also use square nets mounted a caramelised crust. Today, however, properties such as on wooden frames and lowered horizontally into the river Malartic no longer use eggs in their winemaking, but the from platforms on stilts. Among the local specialities canelés remain very popular! 23

24

Matching Food and Wine There are two ways of pairing food and wine in a The best approach is to think of a wine as a sauce. A curry restaurant: choose the best possible match, or embrace or a spicy Mexican dish will need a stronger sauce than the possibility of delicious and surprising partnerships by a delicate fish dish for example. And the same will be inviting people to put together styles and flavours they true of a wine to drink with it. But it’s not just intensity, enjoy. flavours matter too. Sommeliers, whose role is to give their customer a Spicy red wines are perfect with game. On the other hand, memorable experience, adopt the first of these. Their sweet and savoury dishes go well with fruity whites such expertise goes much further than a near-comprehensive as Riesling or Muscat. If there is a lot of spice in a dish, or knowledge of wine regions and styles; they also have if it is sweet, a wine can give the impression of being less to consider all of the components of every dish an fruity, and in the case of a red Bordeaux, more tannic. If imaginative chef has created from seasonal ingredients. a recipe uses fatty ingredients such as pork, for example, Will the aniseed note of fennel be flattened by the or oily ones such as sardines, the wine should ideally have pepperiness of a red Côtes-du-Rhône? What about a acidity that will slice through it. lemony sauce and an oaky Chardonnay? When these efforts create a perfect marriage, the effect can be magical. Surprisingly perhaps, not all cheeses go well with wine. Red Bordeaux is best with a hard cheese such as a good This is what the Bonnie family was looking for when Comté, Parmesan or Cheddar, rather than creamy, they chose the Michelin three-star chef, Yannick Alléno, runny or strong cheeses such as Brie and Époisses, to prepare the dishes to partner their wines at the Fête which go much better with a dry white Bordeaux. Blue de la Fleur dinner in 2017. And he lived up to their cheeses, such as Roquefort, require sweeter wines such as expectations. Partnering magnums of their 2007 white Sauternes. Malartic with the lobster cream and caviar created an unforgettable impression on all the guests. Finally, offering combinations that may surprise your wine-and-food loving guests may well spark some lively But food and wine dinners like these are very special and conversations of the kind to be heard at any French dinner rare occasions. In our everyday life, we all have to adapt to table. our guests, the bottles in our winerack and the recipes we have mastered. 25

26

Spring Spring in Bordeaux is a busy and often complicated time of the Bordeaux oceanic climate and, drawing on the of year for the wine community. The final blends of the complexity of the Malartic subsoil, to produce smaller, latest harvest will have already been selected but the more concentrated berries with more complex flavours. samples have to be prepared and presented to hundreds of As the plough turns the soil on the surface, the roots go buyers and media to taste during the annual En Primeur deeper and deeper to find moisture, until they reach the fortnight. It is a pivotal moment that will occupy all the layer of limestone full of fossilised shells that will nourish attention of the owners and their teams for several weeks the vine. But spring is also crucial in the vineyard, as the new Flowering, at the end of May, when the buds become buds emerge with their tiny down-covered leaves. These flowers, followed by fruit set, when the tiny bunches of fragile buds can give the winegrowers sleepless nights grapes appear about ten days later, are the highlights of if the spring also brings fierce frosts that can reduce a the beginning of the growing season – a period hopefully substantial part of the harvest. If these cold snaps are still marked by limited rainfall. rare, they have become more frequent and intense recently, forcing winegrowers to use more or less effective means of All these activities leave room for leisure activities, and protection. Easter is an excellent time of year to visit Bordeaux. The city's chocolatiers use their imagination and competitive In the vineyard, the chateau's team is now working on spirit to make the most appetizing and sophisticated green pruning, a manually and with great care removing Easter eggs, and florists display their most beautiful excess buds that will not bear ripe fruit. bouquets. Some chateaux organise Easter egg hunts in their gardens and parks. At estates such as Malartic, where sustainable and organic viticulture is practiced, natural methods are used to While enjoying the beautiful spring days and everything protect the vines from harmful insects. the city of Bordeaux has to offer during this season, the Bonnie family also has to go and see what's happening Following the same philosophy, the soil is ploughed on the other side of the world. In Argentina, of course, to encourage microbial life and force the vine roots it's autumn and it's time to pick the grapes at Bodega downwards. This will help the plant to resist the vagaries DiamAndes. 27

28

En Primeur At the end of March and beginning of April every this often meant shipping barrels to Britain, Belgium or year, whatever else is in their diary, thousands of wine Holland, which is why old bottles of ‘London-bottled’ merchants and critics have to find time for Bordeaux. Bordeaux are still occasionally bought and sold at auction. Over the space of a few weeks, this is when the chateaux invite them to sample and ideally buy the latest vintage, For the negociants, the concept of tasting the wine before ‘En Primeur’ - as a future - while it’s still in barrel and at buying it, and alongside their customers, is also relatively least a year from being bottled. modern. In the early years of the 20th century, prices were often agreed while the grapes were still on the vine - ’sur There is no event in the wine calendar that is quite like it. souche’ - while the risks of poor weather spoiling the In every part of the region, chateau-owners get together crop were still high. That changed in 1961, a great vintage to pour their wines at estates like Malartic that have the whose quantities were slashed by an historically late frost. space to accommodate them all. Experts from a long list The deals they had made left chateaux unable to price of cities across the globe will use their tastebuds and their their wine as highly as it deserved, and they needed to pay experience to try to guess how the new wines will evolve their bills. over time. This is when they will first be scored out of 100, and compared with other vintages. Tasters may sip and Even if most of the people who drink Bordeaux are taste well over a hundred wines per day, often returning possibly not aware of En Primeur, they may benefit to their hotels with teeth that have been temporarily dyed from the passion and attention professionals put into its almost black by the wine. selection during their working visit to the region. What sets Bordeaux apart from other regions both during In 2020, Bordeaux, like the rest of the world, had to adapt the En Primeur ‘campaign and the rest of the year, is that to the way the Covid-19 effectively stopped the flow very few of the top chateaux sell their wine directly. In of international travel. Unable to receive visitors to the keeping with tradition, almost every transaction passes chateau, top estates such as Malartic, sent their samples through local brokers and merchants - négociants - who around the world to be tasted by professionals, and hosted will then distribute the wine to importers, wholesalers and numerous online tastings in which the stories behind the retailers internationally. Historically, until the middle of vintage could be told. the 20th century when chateau-bottling became the norm, 29

Fraicheur de Tourteau AVOCADO & CRAB COCKTAIL “As the name suggests, this is a deliciously healthy dish that’s perfect with a young white from Malartic, but we were surprised how beautifully it paired with the richness of the 2014 vintage we enjoyed recently.” — Severine Alternative wine option: DiamAndes Grande Reserve Chardonnay 30 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 2 x quarter pound/120g dressed crab Remove the crab from the shell and place into a medium bowl. Working gently, stir or 2 x 100g/3 1/2 oz tins white through the double cream, lime zest and juice. Season well. crabmeat Meanwhile, dice the tomatoes and add the shallot and a little chopped basil. 500g/a generous pound of tomatoes, Season with salt, pepper and paprika. Stir gently to combine and set aside in a deseeded separate bowl. 2 medium avocados, peeled and stone Finely slice the avocado and sprinkle with lime juice to prevent it from turning brown. removed To assemble, put a layer of tomatoes at the bottom of the mould, then the avocado 1 finely chopped shallot slices and finish with the crumbled crab - or vice versa if you prefer. Add 2 or 3 A handful of basil leaves drops of balsamic vinegar. Set aside in the fridge for 30 minutes to chill. Remove the Juice and zest of 1 lime mould to serve, garnished with a basil leaf or two. ½ tsp paprika or Espelette pepper 1 tbsp double cream Tip – Serve with some very small pieces of apple for a crunchy fresh texture. Salt & pepper This starter can be assembled in either a rectangular or circular mould. 30

31

Steak Tartare de Michèle MICHÈLE’S STEAK TARTARE “My ‘secret recipe’ has become something of a myth with the family and it has always been a success with every generation. Obviously, you have to use very good meat and first class organic eggs. We love it with young Bordeaux, but it’s perfect with a spicier red like our DiamAndes Malbec-Syrah”. — Michèle Alternative option: a good Belgium beer such as Orval Trappist. 25 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 4 medium free-range egg yolks (plus 4 Begin by preparing the sauce as if you were making a mayonnaise. In a medium more yolks, depending how you want bowl, use a whisk to beat 2 of the yolks with the mustard and a pinch of salt and to serve the Tartare) pepper. Beat well. Add the oil, literally drop by drop beating all the time. The mixture should be thick by the time half the oil is added. Continue to add the oil, 1 tsp Dijon mustard more quickly until incorporated. 150ml/1 generous cup sunflower oil 150ml/1 generous cup olive oil Stir through the ketchup, Tabasco, Worcester sauce, half the capers, half the parsley 800g good quality minced beefsteak and half of the chopped shallots. Taste and adjust the seasoning with Tabasco and 2 shallots, finely chopped vinegar. Set aside. 4 tablespoons flatleaf parsley, finely In a separate bowl combine the minced beef with the remaining egg yolks, capers, parsley and shallots. Season generously with pepper and combine well. Add 3-4 chopped tbsp of the mayonnaise sauce through the steak, or more if you prefer. Allow to sit, 3 tablespoons capers in the fridge, for 30 minutes to marinate. 2 tablespoons ketchup 1 teaspoon tabasco Divide the mixture into 4 and press into moulds. Remove the ring for serving and, if 2 teaspoons Worcester sauce you wish, present with another yolk in the centre of the meat, a scattering of parsley, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar fries and the extra sauce. 1 tablespoon lemon juice Salt & pepper 32

33

Linguine alle Vongole LINGUINE WITH CLAMS “An Italian dish with a French wine! So what? We all love this recipe that uses cockles or clams, whichever you can find. When I make it, I usually don’t include the shells – it’s much easier to eat without them – but they do look pretty! Perfect with the 2016 Malartic white.” — Séverine Alternative wine option: Young white southern Burgundy, such as a Pouilly-Fuissé from Domaine Camille Paquet 45 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 2lb/1 kg cockles, mussels or clams, Wash and scrub the shellfish thoroughly, until the water runs clear. according to preference/availability Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the garlic 3 tablespoons olive oil and fry for a minute before tipping in the shellfish and white wine. Cover and cook 500g/a generous pound linguine for 8-10 minutes, shaking the pan intermittently until the shellfish have begun to open, 2 garlic cloves, sliced discarding any that have remained closed. Small bunch of flat parsley, roughly Using a large skimmer, remove the shellfish from the pot. Remove all the shells, setting a third to one side. Filter the liquid – using muslin or a coffee filter - to remove any chopped grit. A glass (20cl) of dry white wine Return the pan to a gentle heat and continue to reduce the sauce with a little butter 30g of unsalted butter for 2-3 minutes, concentrating the flavours. Add the shells you set aside. Salt & pepper Meanwhile bring a large pan of water to the boil. Be careful not to salt the water too much, the shellfish are already salty. Add the pasta and cook until ‘al dente’. Drain the pasta (keeping roughly 200ml/generous 3/4 cup of the cooking water). Add the reserved water to the sauce with a knob of butter and stir. Add the pasta, shellfish and parsley and stir to combine. Serve immediately so that the dish is hot. A soup plate will be perfect to highlight this recipe. Sprinkle with ground pepper and a little chopped parsley. 34

35

Dos de Cabillaud, Fondue de Poireaux LOIN OF COD WITH LEEK FONDUE “Another great partner for a mature white like the 2012 Malartic, the success of this dish depends on the leaks being cooked gently for a very long time.” — Séverine Dubreuil Chardonnay, an innovative Vin de France from Clos Dubreuil in Saint-Emilion. 45 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 4 x 6oz/180g skinned cod loin or fillets Preheat the oven to 340F/170C, fan 300F/150C, gas mark 3. 2 tablespoons dry white wine Rinse the fillets and pat dry. Put in an ovenproof dish; pour over the white wine and 1-2 tablespoons olive oil 1 stem of thyme, leaves picked olive oil and season with season with salt and pepper. Add the thyme and 1 stem of rosemary, finely chopped rosemary and cover with baking paper. 2 tablespoons salted butter Bake for 25-30 minutes, the time will depend on the thickness of the fish. 4 medium leeks, washed and finely sliced Meanwhile, melt the butter and sweat the chopped shallots with a pinch of salt. Cook 2 small shallots, finely sliced on medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the leeks and sauté for a further 10 -15 150ml/1 generous cup double cream minutes until tender. Continue cooking if necessary. Juice of a lemon Then pour in the cream and black pepper. Cook for another 5 min. Season to taste. Salt & pepper Arrange the fillets on the leek fondue and serve with a wedge of lemon. 36

37

Entrecôte Bordelaise ENTRECÔTE WITH BORDELAISE SAUCE “My father and I are the barbecue masters, and we’re very lucky to be able to cook over the dry vine shoots that are left over after the winter pruning. But this works just as well with a griddle pan. Many recipes include red wine, but we love the delicious simplicity of doing this with butter and shallots.” — Jean-Jacques Alternative wine option: Château Grand Mayne 2005 from St Emilion 30 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 6 shallots, peeled and thickly sliced Leave the meat to warm to room temperature if it has been chilled. 1 tablespoons of olive oil Set a thick bottomed frying pan over a medium/high heat. Add olive oil and butter 25g/1oz of butter Salt (ideally fleur de sel or sea salt), & and, once hot, the shallots. Reduce the heat to low and gently sweat the shallots for 20-25 minutes until soft and tender but not coloured. Season well and set aside, pepper, to season covered. 4 x slices of thick entrecote, or one thick Season the meat with salt and pepper. Return the clean frying pan to the heat and brush with the remaining olive oil. Put on a high heat until just beginning to smoke. slice to go on the BBQ - ideally aged Add the entrecote and sear for 5-6 minutes on each side (for a medium rare steak). for at least 15 days Remove the steak from the pan and cover loosely with foil while the meat rests, for 5 minutes or so. Cut the entrecote in thick slices and accompany them with the reserved shallots. Salt the meat just before eating and serve with a bowl of frites. Tip: If you are using a barbecue for this dish, place the entrecote on the grill when the embers are hot. Sear for 5 or 6 minutes on each side. Remove from the embers and wrap in foil, allow the meat to rest for a further 5-6 minutes before serving. 38

39

Frites de Jean-Jacques JEAN-JACQUES' FAMILY-FAMOUS FRIES “Some say fries are French. We think they're Belgian. Anyway, I've studied all the recipes, and here's the result of experimentation and testing by all my friends! You need potatoes with floury flesh; dry them well after slicing them; use beef fat or good vegetable oil; and lastly, the temperature needs to be really high when you cook them the second time - to make them really crunchy.” — Jean-Jacques 60 MINS SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 4.5lb/2kg floury potatoes Peel the potatoes and cut into chunky half-inch/1cm fries/chips. Rince them Vegetable or olive oil; or duck fat. thoroughly and dry well with a clean cloth. Pour the oil or duck fat into a large, heavy casserole or frier- it should be about 2 inches/5cm deep – and on a high flame, and the duck fat works best in a frier. If you own a thermometer bring the temperature of the oil to about 120°C/248°F . If you don’t, add a raw chip or cube of bread to the oil. When it starts to float and fry, the temperature should be perfect. Use a large metal spoon or sieve to gently lower the fries into the pan and fry for about 10 minutes until they have a light crust – they don’t want to be brown yet. Drain on kitchen paper and set aside until completely cold. Once the entrecote is resting, it’s the time to fry the potatoes again. Bring the oil back up to the same temperature and check the heat with a fry, piece of bread or thermometer. It needs to be hot, about 160°C /320°F to 180°C/355°F depending on the oil or fat you are using. Cook the fries in two batches, if needed, so as not to reduce the temperature of the oil. Lower the once-cooked fries into the oil using a metal spoon or sieve and fry for approximately 2 minutes. Remove the fries from the fryer and empty into a bowl, lined with kitchen paper. Shake around a little before removing the paper and sprinkling over salt. Mix to combine. 40

41

Carré d’Agneau & son Gratin Dauphinois RACK OF LAMB WITH DAUPHINOIS POTATOES “Lamb and red Bordeaux is the classic combination - and it’s no coincidence that land that was not suitable for vines was more often given over to sheep than cattle here. I love this simply cooked dish with a wine that’s 10-15 years old and showing the complex flavours that come with that maturity.” — Véronique Alternative wine option: Château Malescot St Exupery 2009 from Margaux. 2+ HOURS SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe DAUPHINOISE POTATOES To make dauphinoise, preheat oven to 180°C/355°F, fan 160°C/320°F, gas 4. 1 onion, thickly sliced Heat cream, milk and garlic in a small pan. Simmer for 1-2 mins, allowing garlic to A large knob of butter 400g/1 3/4 cups double cream infuse into the cream. Remove from heat and allow to cool. 1 ¾ cups/425ml semi skimmed milk Grease a half gallon/2 litre ovenproof dish. Layer the potato and onion slices to 1 clove garlic, crushed 2lb/1 kg floury potatoes, peeled and cover the bottom of dish. Season well then continue to layer. Slowly pour over the cream mixture, allowing each addition to find the crevices and disappear before thinly sliced adding more. Season again. Bake for 90 mins or until the potato cuts like butter. Salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg Cover with foil and allow to sit for 10-20 mins before serving. To make the lamb, increase heat to 220°C/430°F, fan 200°C/390°F, gas 7. FOR THE LAMB Season with salt and pepper, rub with oil and sprinkle the rosemary over it. Brown on 2lb/1 kg rack of lamb, “frenched”(ask all sides in a frying pan, then place in baking dish with onions, garlic, cloves, and some oil. your butcher to do this for you) Place in oven and cook for 10 mins. Lower temperature to 200°C/390°F and cook 2 onions, peeled and sliced for a further 10 mins. The lamb should be pink. 2 cloves of garlic, unpeeled but bashed Remove the lamb from the oven, place on a board. Cover with foil and allow to rest 4-5 stems of rosemary for 10 minutes. Salt & pepper Deglaze the dish with 100ml/½ cup of water. Scrape the bottom of the dish to Vegetable oil dissolve the caramelised juices. Let your meat juice reduce in the oven. Sieve the juice to remove the garnish (onions, garlic and rosemary). Cut your rack of lamb. Decorate with a few sprigs of rosemary and enjoy. 42

43

44

Summer In June, bunches of tiny berries appear in the vines and developed and unspoilt. Those of the Gironde estuary, replace the flowers. At this stage, the vineyard team where the river flows into the ocean, are particularly ensures that the plants receive the best possible care for beautiful and relatively unknown. their berries. At Malartic, some of the leaves on the side of the vines facing the rising sun are removed by hand to According to UNESCO, which has listed the city of enable the grapes to benefit from as much light as possible Bordeaux as a world cultural heritage site, it is a 'historic without risking sunburn in the afternoon. city, a remarkable urban architectural ensemble… with more listed buildings than any other French city except In July, the number of bunches and grapes per vine are Paris'. Extensive recent restoration has made this a roughly counted in order to estimate the size of the very lively place, thanks to a growing number of young harvest and to assess the number of pickers and barrels inhabitants who have come to live here and made it a that will be needed. In the cellar, in addition to preparing cultural centre. The choice of restaurants is particularly for the happy event, the red wines made from grapes wide and there are also many wine bars offering wines harvested two years earlier are bottled. from the region and the rest of the world. In mid-summer, when the growth of the vines slows, the Summer temperatures can be very hot, and people live out bunches of grapes change colour at a crucial stage in their of doors. Families and friends picnic in the gardens and development called veraison, which ideally should be fast enjoy the world's largest ‘water mirror’ in the Place de la and consistent if the harvest is going to bring a good ripe Bourse. crop. Picking will begin with the whites at the end of August or beginning of September - and finish generally In 2016, Bordeaux celebrated the opening of the Cité during the first fortnight of October for the reds. du Vin, the world's most dynamic and interactive wine exhibition. Situated on the riverside, this new landmark This leaves a few days of rest for the teams, who take it in allows visitors to explore and taste wines from across the turn to enjoy the Bordeaux summer. Those living in the globe. For those who do not want the hustle and bustle of region are lucky enough to be able to spend the day at the major cities like London, New York or Paris, Bordeaux is beach close to the bassin d’Arcachon, and the evening in one of Europe’s most pleasant places in which to spend a one of the many spots the city has to offer. The Atlantic few days before visiting the vineyards. coast offers a wide variety of fine sandy beaches, both 45

46

Fête de la Fleur For the Bordelais, the Summer has two big highlights. In It is a great honour for the estate, but it also involves a the city itself, there’s Bordeaux Fête le Vin - the Bordeaux huge amount of work. As one chateau owner said, it’s Wine Festival - held in the third week of June and like putting together a wedding reception for half a attended by hundreds of thousands of locals and visitors. dozen daughters at the same time. A luxury marquee It is one of the biggest events of its kind in the world, has to be erected, a Michelin-starred chef selected and bringing together a host of tasting pavilions, concerts, world-class entertainment laid on, and a brilliant firework fireworks and, in recent years, an array of tall ships on the display planned, for guests who will inevitably compare Gironde. the experience with the one they enjoyed at the previous estate. At around the same time, a much more select event takes place at one of the region’s top chateaux. Launched in When Malartic was chosen to host the Fête de la Fleur 1950, the Fête de la Fleur - a celebration of the flowering in 2017, two decades after Alfred and Michèle Bonnie of the vine - is organised by the Commanderie du bought the estate, Séverine Bonnie found herself spending Bontemps de Médoc, des Graves, de Sauternes et de almost a year planning the event, focusing on every detail, Barsac, the local wine ‘brotherhood’ whose membership from the flowers to the car parking. “It was very stressful, includes all of the top chateau owners and merchants as but it was certainly the highlight of our experience well as enthusiasts, and wine professionals from across the here. As a family, we wanted to welcome people to what globe. The Confrerie organises various events, but nothing had become our home and to share our experiences. I beats the Fête de la Fleur because it allows one chateau remember it emotionally as a moment when so many to host 1,500 guests in the biggest, grandest dinner of people showed their recognition for all the efforts we the year. Among the lucky invitees are also media and had made, and everything we had achieved in returning professionals who are in region for the international Malartic to its historic place. It made us hugely proud.” Vinexpo trade fair. 47

Terrine de Poisson FISH TERRINE “This isn’t the easiest dish to prepare, but it’s so chic, and a really perfect first course to serve on a hot summer day. Serve it with a young white, like the Malartic 2016.” — Séverine Alternative wine option: elegant young white Burgundy such as a Chassagne-Montrachet from Louis Chavy. 90 MINUTES SERVES 6 Ingredients Recipe 400g/14 oz fish without bones – such Preheat the oven to 180C/355°F, fan 160C/320°F, gas mark 4. Chill the fish well. as whiting, salmon or monkfish, diced Season and put into a food processor with half of the shrimps, garlic and onion and ¬chop finely. Add the eggs and crème fraiche and continue to mix until the 150g/5 1/4 oz shelled shrimps consistency is smooth and foamy. Stir through the breadcrumbs and parsley. Season 2 garlic cloves well with salt and pepper. 1 large onion 100g/3 1/2 oz crème fraiche Lightly butter a terrine. Line the base with greaseproof paper and pour half of the fish 3 eggs mixture into the bottom of the terrine. Top with the remaining shrimps and pour over 100g/3 1/2 oz Breadcrumbs the remaining mixture. Spread flat with a spatula. 3 tbsp flat parsley, roughly chopped Butter, for greasing Stand the terrine in a roasting pan half filled with hot water (a bain-marie). Bake Salt & pepper in the oven for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven, leave to cool and refrigerate overnight. To serve, invert a plate or wooden board over the terrine and turn the whole thing over. Give the tin a gentle shake and remove the tin. Serve with slices of toast and tartar sauce. Tip – A great dish to prepare a day in advance 48

49

Tarte Fine à la Tomate TOMATO TART “We grow some really gorgeous tomatoes at Malartic and I love to use them in this delicate dish I have adapted from a recipe by the great Michel Guérard. Of course it is much better with home-made pastry. If you buy your pastry, please make sure that it has been exclusively produced with butter. We particularly enjoy it with the white Reserve de Malartic.” — Véronique Alternative wine option: DiamAndes Viognier. 30 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 1 roll of puff pastry Heat the oven to 180°C/355°F, fan 160°C/320°F, gas mark 4. or home-made Unroll the pastry, prick and turn it over (This way, the pastry will not be soaked by the 1 1/3lb/600g of ripe tomatoes tomato juice). Line a 10inch23cm tart tin with the pastry and transfer to a baking 2 teaspoons tomato purée sheet. Line the tin with baking paper and baking beans or rice, then chill again for 3 tablespoons olive oil 15 minutes in the fridge. This will prevent the pastry from shrinking too much when it 1 teaspoon of oregano goes in the oven. 10 leaves of chopped basil and 2 Blind-bake for 10 minutes, then remove the baking beans/rice and cook for a further 5 minutes until the base is lightly golden and dry to the touch. Set aside. Reduce the whole leaves for the presentation oven to 140C/285°F , fan 130°C/265°F need to check fan, gas mark 1. Salt & pepper Mix the chopped basil with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Wash, dry, seeded and slice the tomatoes into quarter inch/1/2 cm thick slices. 50 Combine the olive oil and oregano in a salad bowl. Add the tomatoes and stir gently. Spread a thin layer of tomato purée and then the basil over the pre-cooked dough. Arrange the tomatoes in a circle on the tart, overlapping them lightly on the tart base. Sprinkle with a pinch of sugar to neutralize the acidity of the tomatoes. Season with black pepper and place on the baking sheet. Cook for 45 minutes. Increase to 180°C /355°F, fan 160°C/320°F, gas mark 4 and cook for another 15 minutes. Salt at the end of cooking and decorate with basil leaves.