Dubai & Abu Dhabi

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4 How to Use This Book easy-to-use These symbols help you to quickly sections identify listings in the text and on the maps: Plan Your Trip 1 SIGHTS Your planning tool kit – Photos, lists and 5 EATING suggestions to help you put together your 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE 3 ENTERTAINMENT perfect trip. 7 SHOPPING 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Explore Reviews are ordered by author preference Your complete city guide – to help you get the most out of the city. Neighbourhood highlights, in-depth reviews These symbols give you the vital and local tips. information for each listing: Understand S Sustainable s Swimming Pool Option E English- Get more from your trip – Learn about % Telephone Language Menu the big picture, so you can make sense of Number c Family-Friendly h Opening Hours # Pet-Friendly the city. p Parking g Bus n Nonsmoking f Ferry Survival Guide a Air-Conditioning m Metro i Internet Access b Subway Your at-a-glance reference – Vital W Wi-Fi Access j Tram practical information to help you have a v Vegetarian d Train Selection smooth trip. plus full-colour map section 206 206 207 207 Key on p000 Key on p000 28B 40 0 400 me# 400 m e# 2 0 0 0.2 miles 0.2 miles GH H f#A#.¡#WDSSl-otuRaaubatAteqasioLriAn-AOBRbllu-ArdAAAsaAShl-&1lmK-R#â#æhaaod4s6iryS#æSaf#21ttSf#tSDSA#.¡#otDWSSel#.a-DuiotuRrataqhauibatAotoeqAasiBAOnoLwrli-Abaln-ABOBdRnrbualSalu-iArtdAlAAiye-sakAKSaehlk-&nhs1lmaK-SatR#âR#æhaitB#æladodS4s6irty3#.S#æSaf#ttS#æt1SDS2ote#.aTD9uiurtAqhainol3onA-BAOnS0ewú#l-bahll1Bdnri5AnuaSa#æitdlliyeN--kaKSae¡#kganhsaa2hifSatbaRPDitR3Bk#ældae82dShli18mtar32#.aS#ætADACll#æ5E--1KD2IRhaú#T9aAguAlnhe1l3n-ae6S0eú#yjhl1aRi5AndS#ædlNt-aS¡#gaa2hifbaDPR32k1ae820d7hli118mar02aS4#ætADACll5E--KD1IRh9aú#aDAglhe1ae6yj aRdSt D E EF FG Corniche Corniche 1 hg hg 57 57 4 1 1 2 10 Baniyas Rd Baniyas Rd hg hg 20 19 St Ol d Baladiya St 17 The Gulf The Gulf ww DEIRA NORTH 13 Baladiya 15 St Al-SabkAlh-aSRo7do5r St DEIRA NORTH DEIRA NORTH DEIR A Al-AbraNO StRT 1H5 45 45 Ol d St Al-Soor 75 13 St Rd Al-Abra 69 69 Deira St 15Al-Sab11khAa 15 11A Deira B Al-Khaleej Rd Al-AKlh-Kalheaeljeej Rd Al-Khaleej 21B Souq Souq 7 B 27 Roundabout Roundabout 21B 37 6C Al-Su2q0aDl-KabBeaenriy2a4s Rd 107 Al-Su2q0aDl-KabBeaenriy2a4s Rd 27 7 14A8 6C14A8 2 2 1 W W 10 10 107 45C 45C M M 19A 49A 49A 2 2 See map 222R22o2A2u222nl-3d2S2222aebeWR2222ofoAhuu22alt2-nSrFedfpa2a2e0ahg0mb2i2e2d220o2aiup222t22WA2l2a2R-22Stoe2aA2uP2r22benlUB-dknd2S22eu2hSd2f#asetesatberWr222piS2Aofaanhtubsa22sat2rtarifo2a2&ngBe2us›#WSAtla-a#þ2StDte1iaPorebeUniBrBdkna2euhaSÿ#df#sN3tesnSatrraitpiSyAaiBSafantbsS1qaassr91oStna¡#Ciuú##.ioqyt&8nhaSB#æstuAls-›#MSustaa3lþ#2la4Dt31hAi20oRe1dnAiRr1Bl8a2-oaÿ#BNN3nSuaaintkNyiBhSfdaaaS1qaasiNl7911oPf1NSbnSA¡#C02uaú#At#.ioqaAytAr8huiIakfFtS#æs2tACl-Musa3lla43hA20R1dAR1l8-oBNuankNhdaaaiNl71Pf1NbSA02aAtoaAAruiIkfFt 2C9A 37 #ú 10 #ú 10 p000 18B 12 18B 12 1 PË92 3 2 1 2 RoAul-nFdaahbido2iut2 3 22 Naif Rd 14C Naif Rd 73 14C 3 ËP4 PË92 Kuwait 22 24 73 Hospital 22 Al-Burj St 17B Al-Burj St 25 PË88 6 88 4 22 19B 1 17B 24 3 6 3 19B 1 29 27A 25 15 Kuwait 21AHospital 21A 15 Rd 14 (DKuhboariDCurebeaki) Rd 14 29B C 29 27A 18D 37B 18D Burj Burj Bartha St BarthaDNSuebtwai New C 28A 18E 16 28A Roundabout Roundabout Hospital Dubai (DKuhboariDCurebeaki) 43B Burj al- 16 Hospital 3 Nahar #. #.2 29B 2 2 2 2 22 2 2 2 2222 2222 37B 22 18E 2 2 2 2 43B Cemetery Cemetery ÿ# ÿ# A 23B D A 23B23 2 2 2 2 2 2 22 2 2 2 222222 222222 D 22 2 2 2 2 2 l- 3 l- 32 2 252 2 2 2 2 2 2 2222222 2 2 2 2 22 2 2 2 25 22 2 2 ú# ú# 8C 8C4 42 2 2 2 2 Maktoum Hosp l Rd Burj al- Maktoum Hosp Nahar 2 2 22 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 22 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 4 4 2 2 14 14 16 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 22 2 2 2 22 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 15 Cemetery Cemetery19 192 2 2 2 17 2 2 2 2 Al-Rasheed 2A 15 17 2 2 2 18 2 2 2 2 18 222 2 Al-Rasheed 2 222 2A 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Al-Nakhal Al-Nakhal 2 2 2 2 2 2B 2B St St 22 22 2222222 2222222 #. #. ita ita222 2 2 2 2 2 16 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 22 2 2 22 Al-Maktoum Rd 2 2 Al-Maktoum2 l Rd 2A 2 2 2 2 2 Rd Rd 15 1522 2 2 2 22 2 2 2 22 2 2 2 2 2 2 ú#13 ú#132 2 2 2 2 2 2 2222222 ËPBaniyas 2 2 2 19A 222 19A 2A Fish 22A 3B Fish 22A 3B ÿ# 24WaBtaerniByuass f# ÿ# 24 PË84 Water Bus f#84 24 24 Rd AL-MATEENA 5 55 Station Al-Ittihad Station Al-Ittihad 8 2B 2B Roundabout Roundabout 12 12 5 46 #ú 6 SbhineZikahyKedhaRlidfa SbhineZikahyKedhaRlidfa #ú AL-MATEENA 7 8 Sq UnSioqn Al-Ittihad Union Al-Ittihad 5B 9 Square Bus Station Square Bus Station 5B ›# 46 ›# ËP88 PËOmar ibn #þ ISBN 978-1-74220-022-4 al-SKUqhunaaiotrtnea¡#b ROdmar al-SKUqhunaaiotrtn8e#þa8¡#b Rd 1 1 9 10B 19B 10B 3A 13B 19B ibn 3A 13B 15D Al-Mateena Al-Rigga Rd Al-Rigga Rd 5B 5B 28A 15D Al-Mate2e2nBa 18 44 34A 34A 12A 12A 22B 18 20 38 38 22A 40A 24A 3B 20 3B 20 28A See map See map ÿ# 27 ÿ# 27 5C 40A 5C 22A 20 19B St St p000 p000 17 17 24A 25A 6 6 #æ 7 ú# ú# 6 PË78 52199 3 19B 3 Al-Jazeira St Al-Jazeira St 25A 29 29 PË78 37A #æ 7 #ú #ú Salahuddin 25B 26 Salahuddin Rd29 26 37A #ÿ 14 14 25B ÿ# 13 26 26 al-Siddiq Rd f#Al-Seef f#Al-Seef 178 17A 1328B 12B 29 Rd Water Bus 21A 178 17A Water Bus Station 34B 34B RdAl-Muraqqabat al3-3Siddiq StationAl-S 40B 40B 22B 21A 35A Rd Al-Muraqqabat Rd 27A 23A2#ú9A1288C 16 16 Rd 22B 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Dubai & Abu Dhabi “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” Tony Wheeler, cofounder – Lonely planet This edition written and researched by Josephine Quintero

Contents PPllaannYYoouurrTTrriipp page 1 4 Welcome to Dubai Top Itineraries����������������16 Eating��������������������������� 27 & Abu Dhabi��������������������� 4 If You Like����������������������� 18 Drinking & Nightlife��� 31 Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Month by Month������������20 Entertainment�������������35 Top 10������������������������������� 6 With Kids������������������������ 23 Shopping���������������������� 37 What’s New�������������������� 13 For Free�������������������������� 25 Sports & Activities���� 42 Need to Know�����������������14 Explore Dubai & Abu Dhabi  46 Neighbourhoods at a Sheikh Zayed Road Abu Dhabi��������������������� 117 Glance������������������������� 48 & Around������������������������ 77 Deira�������������������������������50 Jumeirah�������������������������91 Day Trips from New Dubai�������������������� 104 Dubai��������������������������124 Bur Dubai�����������������������63 Sleeping���������������������134 Understand Dubai & Abu Dhabi 147 Dubai & Abu Dhabi Politics & Economy����� 155 The Environment��������� 162 Today���������������������������� 148 Identity & Lifestyle������ 159 Architecture & History�������������������������� 150 the Arts������������������������ 166 Survival Guide  171 Transport����������������������172 Language��������������������� 187 Directory A–Z���������������177 Index����������������������������� 196 Dubai Maps  203

John Borthwick / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Richard I’Anson / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © (left) Burj al-Arab Christian Aslund / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © interior (p94) (above) Dubai Aquarium at Dubai Mall (p79) (right) Camel and keeper New Jumeirah Bur Deira Dubai p91 Dubai p50 p104 p63 Sheikh Zayed Road & Around p77

Welcome to Dubai & Abu Dhabi Passengers arriving by air are transfixed by the view: futuristic skyscrapers flanked by a glittering coastline and surrounded by endless desert. Embracing the Extraordinary Feeding Body & Soul It’s little wonder so many entrepreneurial Dubai has a glut of excellent restaurants. designers and architects love Dubai. Be prepared to be spoiled rotten with cui- Together with a tax-free escape from sine that ranges from East to West, from throttling budgets, stringent building celebrity-chef-driven to Asian street-style. regulations and cookie-cutter specs, this This is a foodie’s fantasy destination, where place likes to show off. Tallest building in atmosphere, surroundings and service are the world? Tick. Artificial island shaped like an accepted part of the culinary combo. a palm? Tick. So-called seven-star hotel? Continue the self-pampering at one of Tick. Largest global shopping mall? Tick… Dubai’s spas, with treatments and massages And indoor snow slopes to boot? Tick. designed to soothe away stress and revi- talise the senses. Or flop on a white sandy While it’s true that recent economic woes beach, take a dhow dinner cruise or watch have led to some major projects hitting the the sunset over rippling red-gold sand in dust or being scaled down, such as Dubai- the desert, sharing a vision that was once land, others are being gradually resumed. deeply rooted in Dubai’s Bedouin society. More superlative-worthy projects to come? Tick. Dubai, a shrinking violet? Never! Beyond the City Let’s Shop! Travel beyond Dubai to experience another world altogether as a skyscraper skyline is Before the 1970s, the only time you could replaced by a more traditional desertscape. shift your credit card into overdrive in Dubai was at the Gold Souq. Serious fashion choice Abu Dhabi is a fascinating and easily required jetting off to London or New York. accessible destination to the south. This Today the city vies with both metropolises as is the emirate that continues to surprise, a shopping destination, as well as providing quietly vying with Dubai with its consider- much more than a mere retail experience. able investment in culture, innovation and While temperatures spiral outside, the malls architecture. It is also home to the Sheikh morph into places to shop, play, eat, drink Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan Mosque, a (coffee) and socialise. If you want a glimpse magnificent must-see sight. of a more traditional culture, there are still souqs, particularly in Deira and Bur Dubai.

Jean-Pierre Lescourret / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Why I Love Dubai By Josephine Quintero, Author I lived in Kuwait for seven years and thought I was pretty savvy about the Arab way of life. How wrong I was. Dubai is a real one-off and full of surprises. There is nothing mundane or matter-of-fact about this place; it is all about drama and extremes – from the architecture to the weather to the food… Ah, the food! I also love the fact that there is a burgeoning, innovative art scene here and in Abu Dhabi. Discovering some fabulous galleries in the dusty Al-Quoz district was a real high point for me – along with travelling to the top of the Burj Khalifa, that is! For more about our author, see p224. Above: Dubai skyline from Jumeirah coast

6 Glenn Beanland / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Top 10

7 Dubai Museum (p65) Dubai Souqs (p52) 1 Appropriately housed in one of the 2 Noisy, chaotic and colourful, Dubai’s city’s oldest buildings, this museum souqs are an enticing reminder that provides a well-laid-out and comprehen- you are, indeed, in a foreign country – sive history of Dubai. Learn exactly how something you might forget when you’re and why, in just a third of a century, this poolside at your five-star hotel. The small extraordinary destination has risen from Spice Souq is a heady introduction to Mid- being a simple desert settlement to one of dle Eastern exotic herbs and spices, while the most progressive and modern cities Bur Dubai’s Textile Souq (p66) is another in the Middle East. Many exhibits take assault on the senses with its vividly pat- the form of lifelike dioramas, while a terned fabrics. Don’t miss nearby Hindi separate archaeological exhibition covers Lane (p65), a tiny alleyway flanked by the ancient history of the region, with a stalls selling brilliantly coloured religious display of exhibits discovered in several decorations, or the Deira Gold Souq, excavated tombs. which has a dazzling display of jewellery at remarkably low prices. Deira Gold Souq 1 Bur Dubai 1 Deira, Bur Dubai Michael Coyne / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Richard Nebesky / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © John Elk III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © architect tom wright 8 Plan your Trip Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Top 10

9 Plan your Trip Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Top 10 Richard I’Anson / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Bastakia Dubai Creek (p68) Burj al-Arab (p94) Quarter (p65) 4 Dubai’s otherworldly 5 This landmark hotel, 3 Wandering around the megaprojects got you with its dramatic maze of narrow lanes craving a dose of reality? design that mimics the in the Bastakia Quarter Walk alongside the Creek sail of a ship, floats on its provides a tangible sense and it’s easy to imagine own man-made island of historic Arabian archi- life in Dubai half a century and has become the iconic tecture and culture. The ago. The wooden dhows, symbol of Dubai’s boom streets are flanked by low- bustling souqs, stately years. If you’re not in the lying traditional buildings, wind towers and grace- ultra-moneyed league that complete with wind tow- ful mosques have barely can afford to stay here, you ers, arabesque windows changed over the decades. can still indulge in a little and decorative gypsum Wander the streets sur- make-believe by opting screens. Punctuated by the rounding the Creek in for one of the cocktail or occasional splash of daz- Bur Dubai and Deira to afternoon-tea packages, zling bougainvillea, this experience a vibrant multi­ or by splashing out on a evocative area is home to cultural region that has romantic dinner in the a couple of the city’s most become home to hundreds underwater restaurant. characterful guesthouses, of thousands of people The interior is all about as well as cafes, galler- from across the globe. The impact, drama and un- ies and museums. If you most evocative route to adulterated bling, with want to learn more about cross the Creek is by hop- dancing fountains, gold fit- local history, join one of ping on one of the tradi- tings, giant aquariums and the informative organised tional abras (water taxis). private whirlpool baths walking tours. your butler can fill with 1 Deira, Bur Dubai champagne (or caviar) – if 1 Bur Dubai you so wish. 1 Jumeirah

10 Art Galleries (p80) Nightlife (p31) 6 Dubai and Abu Dhabi are rapidly 7 Dubai is home to some of the most evolving as exciting centres for art glamorous, see-and-be-seen night- in the Middle East. In Dubai, the annual clubs in the world. Some of the best are Art Dubai art fair has been instrumental in beachside Jumeirah, where you can in reviving the city’s art culture. Ranging dance by the sea under the stars, while from the dusty industrial surroundings several of the city’s most sophisticated of Al-Quoz to the chic sophistication of bars top soaring buildings, offering dizzy the city’s financial centre and the boho- skyscape views to go with those head- chic Bastakia Quarter, the contemporary spinning cocktails. If you prefer your art scene here is buzzing. It’s a similar ale on tap accompanied by big-screen picture in Abu Dhabi with its dedicated sports or karaoke, there are plenty of cultural ‘island’, Saadiyat, which includes Brit-geared pubs, while live-music lovers branches of leading international art mu- may get lucky if their trip coincides with seums the Louvre and the Guggenheim. a star billing on the concert circuit in either Dubai or Abu Dhabi. Buddha Bar (p111) Shishas by artist Mounir Fatmi at Art Dubai 2012 (p20) ALI HAIDER/epa/corbis © Plan your Trip Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Top 10 1 Sheikh Zayed Road & Around 6 Drinking & Nightlife

Giovanni Simeone/SIME/4Corners © 11Plan your Trip Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Top 10 John Elk III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Shopping Malls (p37) 8 The first rule is to realise that, as far as shopping malls are concerned, there are no rules in Dubai. Just arrive without preconceived ideas and be prepared for sights and experiences that go way beyond mere retail therapy. In Dubai, shopping malls represent an integral part of the culture and life- style; they are places not just for conspicuous consumption but for extravagant enter- tainment and world-class dining, Disney-style theme parks and extraordinary architecture. In summer, malls are where everyone retreats to escape the heat, socialise, clinch deals and puff on sheesha pipes. Ski Dubai at Mall of the Emirates (p113) 7 Shopping

Plan your Trip Dubai & Abu Dhabi’s Top 1012 Christine Osborne / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Desert Escapes (p126) Philip Game / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 9 Staying in Dubai, it can be easy to for- get that the region’s most famous topo- graphical feature has nothing to do with architectural wizardry. Even if you didn’t plan on getting sand between your toes, a trip to the desert is highly recommended and there is a wide range of excursions on offer that provide a rare opportunity to experience everything from sandboarding to sleeping under the stars. Alternatively, consider staying at one of the desert resorts or renting a 4WD, which allows you to appreciate the magnificent scenery firsthand. 1 Day Trips from Dubai Grand Mosque (p119) 10 Don’t miss Abu Dhabi’s stunning Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan Mosque, the third-largest mosque in the world. And, yes, it is massive, with more than 80 snowy-white marble domes held aloft by 1000 pillars with space for a soul-stirring 40,000 worshippers in its magnificent courtyard and main prayer hall (which also holds the largest handwoven carpet in the world). Intricate inlaid designs of flowers and leaves in marble and semiprecious stones delicately adorn the pillars; massive chandeliers twinkle with thousands of dazzling crystals; and 24-carat gold adorn- ments shimmer throughout. 1 Abu Dhabi

13 What’s New Celebrity Dining Al Majaz Waterfront Project Sharjah’s ambitious Al Majaz waterfront It’s pretty hard to find anywhere on a par project includes sculpture gardens; walk- with Dubai when it comes to the number ing, jogging and cycling paths; restaurants of celebrity chefs bubbling away in the and cafes; and laser and water shows, gourmet culinary cauldron. And although including a 100m-high dancing fountain. one or two have departed (most notably (p126) Gordon Ramsay), new names include everyone’s kitchen-sink darling Jamie Armani Hotel Oliver, while fellow UK-chef Gary Rhodes The iconic Burj Khalifa is a fitting home and Mexican Richard Sandoval both have for the world’s first hotel that has been second restaurants (and concepts). James exclusively designed and developed by Martin, another Brit-based culinary star, is Giorgio Armani. It’s as cutting edge and also apparently considering neighbouring contemporary as you would expect from Abu Dhabi as his United Arab Emirates this Italian style guru. (p140) (UAE) launch pad. Jumeirah Golf Estates Dubai Sports Complex This impressive new golf course is home The Dh1.1 billion Dubai Sports Complex of the Dubai World Championship, with opened in late 2010 as a multipurpose courses named after different environ- sports venue with a capacity of 15,000 mental themes. By 2011 the Earth and Fire spectators. Facilities include an indoor courses were completed with Water and aquatic centre, which hosted the FINA Wind still at the planning stage. (p44) World Swimming Championships in December 2010. Sleep Pods at Airport In October 2011 Dubai International Air- One&Only The Palm port became the first airport in the Middle Arrive by ferry at this 2011 One&Only East to offer snooze cubes (modular sleep hotel newbie with its signature Moorish- pods) for weary travellers. (p172) cum-Andalucían architecture and exqui- site landscaping and hotel facilities. (www.oneandonlyresorts.com; p143) International Art Museums The Ivy Although there have been delays, Abu Arguably London’s most revered dining Dhabi’s highly impressive cultural project, institution, the Ivy opened in the suitably Saadiyat Island, is definitely going ahead. iconic Jumeirah Emirates Towers in late When completed, this man-made island 2011. (p84) will be home to a branch of both the Louvre and the Guggenheim art museums. For more recommendations and Check www.saadiyat.ae for an update. reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/ (p119) dubai

14 Need to Know Currency Your Daily Budget Advance Planning United Arab Emirates (UAE) Budget less than Three months before Double- dirhams (Dh) Dh600 check visa regulations as these can alter without prior warning. Languages ¨¨Budget hotel room: Check date of Ramadan, which Dh300–400 changes annually. Arabic, English ¨¨Excellent supermarkets for One month before Reserve a self-caterers table at a top restaurant. Check Visas ¨¨Cheap museum entrance concert-venue websites for fees, free public beaches what’s on during your stay. Citizens of 34 developed One week before Check countries get free 30-day visas Midrange Dh600– average daytime temperature. on arrival in the UAE. 1200 Useful Websites Money ¨¨Midrange double room: Dh500 ¨¨Lonely Planet (www ATMs are widely available. Credit ¨¨Two-course meal in good .lonelyplanet.com/dubai) cards are accepted in most midrange restaurant: Destination information, hotel hotels, restaurants and shops. Dh125–200, plus wine bookings, traveller forum and ¨¨Top attractions and sights: more. Mobile Phones average Dh100 ¨¨Dubai Tourism (www .dubaitourism.ae) Official You can buy a pay-as-you-go Top End over Dh1200 tourism site of Dubai mobile with credit for as little as Government, which provides Dh125. Alternatively, local SIM ¨¨Four-star hotel room: updated advice on visitor visas. cards are widely available. from Dh1000 ¨¨Dubai Community (www ¨¨Fine dining for lunch and .dubailime.com) Classifieds, Time dinner: from Dh800 culture, events and features. ¨¨Bar tab for wine and beer: ¨¨Daily English Language Dubai is four hours ahead of GMT. from Dh300 News (www.gulfnews The time does not change during .com) Regional, local and the summer. international news, plus sports and classifieds. Tourist Information ¨¨Dubai Explorer (www .liveworkexplore.com/dubai) The Department of Tourism Geared towards residents with & Commerce Marketing lots of practical info. (DTCM; www.dubaitourism.ae) operates 24-hour information kiosks in the Terminal 1 and 3 arrivals areas of Dubai Interna- tional Airport.

15 When to Go The best times are °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm March to April and 40/104 20/500 October to November 30/86 16/400 when temperatures 20/68 12/300 Plan your Trip Need to Know are in the low 30°Cs. 10/50 8/200 Avoid July to August when temperatures 0/32 4/100 average around 43°C -10/14 0 with 95% humidity. JF MAM J J A S OND Arriving in Dubai Getting Around Sleeping Dubai International Airport Before you hop aboard a Dubai is a luxury travel The metro, buses and taxis to local bus or the metro, you destination with essentially central Dubai are all convenient must purchase a recharge- two types of hotel: the city modes of transport to/from the able Nol card from ticket hotel and the beach resort. airport. If you are staying at a offices in any metro and Prices are at their lowest four- or five-star hotel, check some bus stations, plus in the sweltering summer whether an airport transfer is ticket vending machines. months of July and August. available. ¨¨Metro There are two metro At other times of the year it Metro The Red Line stops at lines. The Red Line runs from is essential to reserve ahead Terminals 1 and 3 and is the near Dubai International of time. Most hotels offer most efficient way to get across Airport to Jebel Ali. The considerable deductions town by public transport. Green Line links the Dubai if you book online. Hotel Bus Several public buses serve Airport Free Zone with Dubai apartments offer more the airport, including the 401 Healthcare City. economical accommoda- (to Al-Sabkha bus station) and tion, while there’s a bus 402 (to Al-Ghubaiba bus ¨¨Bus There is a network of growing number of B&Bs. station). 79 bus routes. Buses can be Taxi A taxi costs between Dh45 overcrowded and slow. Useful Websites and Dh90 depending on your destination. ¨¨Boat Abras (traditional ¨¨Dubai Hotels (www wooden boats) cross the Creek. .dubaihotelsltd.com) Wide There are water buses, which range of options, mainly in are also good for sightseeing. top-end category. ¨¨Direct Rooms (www For much more on For much more on .directrooms.com) Competitive arrival see p172. getting around, site for hotel booking with see p173. some good deals. ¨¨Late Rooms (www Ramadan .laterooms.com) Especially good for last-minute offers. Muslims are required to fast during Ramadan and everyone, regardless of religion, is expected to observe For much more on the fast when in public. That means no eating, drink- sleeping, see p134. ing or smoking during daylight hours. Government offices cut hours, bars and pubs are closed until 7pm each night, live music is prohibited and dance clubs are closed throughout the month. Unless you are particularly interested in Islam, you may want to avoid visiting during this holiday, which shifts by a few days each year.

16 Top Itineraries Day One Day Two Jumeirah (p91) Bur Dubai (p63) M Cruise into your day with an early M Enjoy breakfast in the tranquil walled morning stroll on the sand at the garden of the Basta Art Cafe. Nip Jumeirah Open Beach. Next, aim for a next door to check out the latest exhibition at perfect balance of spirituality and architec- the Majlis Gallery and wander around the ture at the Jumeirah Mosque before feed- historic Bastakia Quarter, dipping in and ing the body with some healthy soul food at out of the various museums. Enjoy the short the Lime Tree Cafe. Continue in culture stroll to the breezy Bur Dubai Souq, via mode by enjoying fine artwork at the Pro the atmospheric Hindi Lane. Check out the Art Gallery, then indulge with a shopping textiles, pick up a pashmina (or two) and cool spree at S*uce boutique. down with a fresh mango juice before head- ing for a Creekside location for a late lunch. Lunch Taxi to Ravi (p96) for a pack-in- the-flavours Pakistani curry. Lunch Enjoy Middle Eastern fare at Bait Al Wakeel (p69). Sheikh Zayed Road & Around (p77) Bur Dubai (p63) R It’s the hottest part of the day so time to retreat indoors. Hop in a cab to the R Backtrack to the Dubai Museum Dubai Mall and visit the watery wonder- where you can spend a good hour land of the Aquarium before perusing the boning up on the history and culture. Then shops. Wind up the afternoon by grabbing a wind your way through the souq to the restaurant pew at Souq al-Bahar overlook- Shindagha Heritage Area, which has been ing the magical dancing fountains with their restored with a paved walkway and a couple soaring Burj Khalifa backdrop. of excellent museums housed in sumptuous historical buildings. Stay until sunset, when Dinner Tuck into top Brit-inspired nosh you can revive yourself with a coffee over- at the Rivington Grill (p83). looking the passing parade of boats. Sheikh Zayed Road & Around (p77) Dinner Splash out with a dinner cruise on the Bateaux Dubai (p69). N Check out the killer views and cocktails at Neos, the high-octane Bur Dubai (p63) bar at the hotel Address Downtown Dubai. Or show off big-time as you belt N You’ll be so relaxed after wining and out your top Susan Boyle number at Harry dining on the cruise, but if you have Ghatto’s at Jumeirah Emirates Towers. the energy, enjoy a grand finale to your evening by stopping by the super-chic Red Lounge bar at the Raffles Dubai hotel, to clink glasses overlooking stunning skyline views. Follow that with a quick spin on the dance floor next door at the oh-so-cool People by Crystal nightclub.

17 Day Three Day Four Pl an your Trip To p It i n e r a r i e s Deira (p50) Abu Dhabi (p117) M Hop on one of the traditional M Make an early start and travel to wooden abras (water taxis) to cross Abu Dhabi, a two-hour drive away. the Creek and stock up on saffron at the Head straight for the magnificent Sheikh Spice Souq. Crisscross your way back to Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan Mosque as the Gold Souq, stopping off en route for it closes at noon (and all day Friday). a fresh mango-and-orange juice at the You’ll need at least an hour of ogling time Ashwaq Cafeteria. After gawping at all here. Wind up the morning at the Central that glitz, wander around the Perfume Market. Souq, sampling the musky traditional attars (perfumes). Lunch Enjoy a Lebanese-inspired main at Shakespeare & Co (p122). Lunch Enjoy a meaty feast at the Afghan Khorasan Kebab House (p56). Abu Dhabi (p117) Deira (p50) R At the hottest time of the day, take some time perusing the shops here, R After all that banter and bustle, take before heading to the Emirates Palace a break and spend the hottest hours for a gawp at all that gold and a frothy of the day having a luxurious massage at cappuccino (sprinkled with gold leaf, of Amara spa in the Park Hyatt hotel. Cross course). If time permits, take a stroll along the road and stroll down to the colourful the waterfront Corniche flanked by pris- quayside where wooden boats unload their tine white sandy beaches, before returning wares. Head towards central Baniyas Sq, to Dubai. popping in en route at Deira’s two historic museums, the Heritage House and Al- Dinner Go Italiano with dinner at Ahmadiya School. Then follow your rum- Hilton’s BiCE (p108) in New Dubai. bling stomach and cab it to the Mövenpick Hotel in Bur Dubai. New Dubai (p104) Dinner Enjoy fine Indian dining and N Enjoy post-dinner drinks at the entertainment at Chutneys (p70). fabled Buddha Bar in the Grosven- or House hotel and then glide up the eleva- Deira (p50) tor to the hotel’s 44th floor and the swanky retro-check Bar 44, with its sweeping N After a leisurely dinner, head to Chi panorama, plus live blues and jazz. nightclub where you can sip stylish Consider some serious hip-swinging cocktails under the stars at one of Dubai’s action at Nasimi Beach, the Atlantis signature nightspots, then get hip-swaying hotel’s fabled nightspot a couple of fronds to the stylish repertoire from a chilled line- away on the Palm Jumeirah. up of international DJs.

18 If You Like… Nightlife haunt with its giant Buddha, sexy Special Spa Time Crown your lighting and chilled-out sounds. stay with a ‘Queen for a Day’ Barasti Dance with sand between (p111) luxurious treatment session at your toes or chill out in the bar at Etoiles Abu Dhabi’s most luxuri- the Sensasia Urban Spa (p103) or this spirited hotspot, a favourite ous hotel is home to the emirate’s head for Abu Dhabi’s glamorous haunt for expat revellers. (p111) most sophisticated nightspot, Emirates Palace spa (p119). Nasimi Beach A winning combo which attracts a super-chic and High Tea Reserve a top table for of beachside glamour, big-name stylish clientele. (p123) tea accompanied by sumptuous DJs, live performers and monthly cakes, a glass of bubbly and full-moon parties. (p112) A Touch of Luxury heady views, 200m above sea N’Dulge Circus acts, acrobatics, level. (p94) the hottest tracks and a party Boating in Style Check out the Go for Gold At the Deira Gold crowd. (p112). Creek with glass in hand from the Souq prices are fair, the quality Buddha Bar Dress to impress at deck of a luxury dinner cruise. superb and the purchase a glit- this see-and-be-seen fashionable (p69) tering investment. What are you waiting for? (p52) John Elk III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Spice souq, Bur Dubai

19 Top Table Dine at one of the Culture For more top Dubai and Pl an your Trip If Yo u L i k e … celebrity-chef restaurants in Abu Dhabi spots, see Dubai or Abu Dhabi and let Gate Village Smock-and-beret ¨¨Eating (p27) your tastebuds convince you types will love nosing around the ¨¨Drinking & Nightlife (p31) that every soupçon of fame is exciting contemporary galleries ¨¨Entertainment (p35) justified. at this Financial District art hub. ¨¨Shopping (p37) (p82) ¨¨Sports & Activities (p42) Shopping Saadiyat Island Four museums Extremes and a performing arts centre are good facilities, including set to open in Abu Dhabi in 2013, showers, and an enticing white Dubai Mall The largest mall in when the Louvre Abu Dhabi will sandy beach. (p94) the world packs a serious retail set the painterly pace with a Jumeirah Open Beach Good punch, and provides plenty of collection originating from the facilities and plenty of towel family-geared entertainment. Louvre in Paris. (p119) space on the sand at this long (p88) Al-Quoz A cutting-edge area for strip lined with a promenade, Deira Souqs The antithesis of predominantly Middle Eastern next to the Dubai Marine Beach the modern mall, selling eve- contemporary art, sculpture and Resort & Spa. (p94) rything from dried lemons and installations. (p80) Corniche, Abu Dhabi The beach saffron to Kashmiri bed throws Annual Festivals Check out the flanking the Corniche here is and camel-skin slippers. (p52) annual cycle of film, theatre and glorious with plenty of family- Ibn Battuta Mall Another one- music festivals in Dubai and its friendly facilities, pristine white off, this themed shopping mall is neighbours, as well as big-name sand and convenient cafes and stunningly decorated in country concerts, orchestras and dance restaurants nearby. (p117) and regional styles, such as performances. Andalucían, Indian and classic Museum Sharjah’s Museum of Bargains Persian. (p113) Islamic Civilisation is dedicated Wafi Mall This mall has some to all aspects of Islam and is Shopping Festival January is retail gems in a wonderful set- extraordinarily detailed and the time for real bargains with ting with some fabulous stained well-laid-out. (p125) many big stores slashing their glass and extraordinary design prices by up to 75%. (p20) features. (p72) Beaches Deira & Bur Dubai Explore the Central Market A delightful souqs and surrounding streets small mall on the site of the Kite Beach This is a glorious in Bur Dubai and Deira for some original souq in Abu Dhabi, with unspoiled stretch of sand, north real one-off bargains. (p58 and lots of warm wood and a great of the Burj al-Arab; there are no p72) selection of shops. (p123) facilities, so pack a picnic. (p94) Sharjah Everything in Sharjah Souq Madinat Jumeirah OK, Jumeirah Beach Park Although is cheaper than in its glitzy it is a bit ‘Disneyland does the it costs a few dirhams, this neighbour. Check out the Arabian souq’, but the look beach has superb family-geared Central Souq here, particularly is sumptuous and the shops facilities, including playgrounds, its jewellery stores. (p127) enticing with plenty of unusual a proper park (fronting the sand) Bastakia Quarter For scintil- souvenir scope, plus refuelling and ice creams for sale. (p94) lating gifts, jewellery, crafts and spots. (p102) Jumeirah Beach Residence souvenirs check out the gift Mall of the Emirates Another Open Beach A great place just shops at the Majlis Gallery, the mall with a dizzying number of off The Walk at JBR, with a long XVA Hotel and the Basta Art shops, as well as those famous stretch of sand and plenty of Cafe. (p65) Alpine-inspired ski slopes and restaurants nearby. (p94) some brilliant dining. (p112) Umm Suqeim Beach Overlook- ing the iconic Burj al-Arab, this is the beach where you shouldn’t forget your camera. There are

20 Month by Month TOP EVENTS fastest courses in the world, z Emirates Airline this full marathon attracts Dubai Shopping Festival, pounding participation International Festival January–February from all over the world. of Literature (www.dubaimarathon.org) A literary event that show- Dubai International cases authors and poets Jazz Festival, February February from the Middle East, as Art Dubai, March well as international best­ WOMAD, April Another warm and winning selling writers such as month, with sun-kissed Wilbur Smith and Margaret Dubai International Film weather and plenty going Atwood. (www.eaifl.com) Festival, December on, including many outdoor events. Pack a light jacket March January or pashmina for those al fresco evenings. The weather might be A blissful month here heating up a fraction, when much of the 3 Dubai but it is still near perfect world is suffering post- in this action-packed holiday doldrums and International Jazz month, with warm seas for icy conditions. Expect Festival swimming and plenty of daytime temperatures This increasingly popular space on the sand. averaging a pleasant 25°C, event has had locals foot- though nights can be cool. tapping since 2003. Per- z Art Dubai formances take place over 7 Dubai Shopping nine days in the outdoor Art is becoming big busi- amphitheatre at Dubai ness in the Gulf and the Festival Media City and past acts growing number of gal- Held from mid-January to include such musical heavy- leries confirms the trend. mid-February, this shop- weights as Kool & the Gang Madinat Jumeirah provides ping festival draws hordes and Alison Moyet. (www a glamorous setting for of bargain-hunting tourists .dubaijazzfest.com) artists, dealers and gallery from around the world. owners to canvas their art. There are huge discounts 2 Dubai Tennis (www.artdubai.ae) in the souqs and malls, and the city is abuzz with Championships 3 Al-Ain Classics activities, ranging from Attracting the big serves live concerts to fireworks. of the world’s top pros, the Festival (www.mydsf.com) men’s and women’s events International top talent – are a firm fixture on the from cellist Yo-Yo Ma to 2 Dubai Marathon international tennis tours. Prague’s Bennewitz (www.dubaitennis Quart­et – perform classical With mild January weather championships.com) music concerts in the evoca- and one of the flattest and tive setting of the restored

3 WOMAD 21 Al-Jahili Fort in Al-Ain, a Always a global winner, October Plan your Trip Month by Month 90-minute drive south of this three-day festival, held Dubai. (www.aacf.ae) in Al-Ain’s Al-Jahili Fort Temperatures have and the Corniche in Abu started to cool z Dubai Dhabi, has attracted global considerably, although giants such as Jamaica’s you can still expect some International Boat Jimmy Cliff in 2011. (www toasty warm days early Show .womadabudhabi.ae) in the month. Nights Don your deck shoes and are perfect for dining al head for the International May fresco in shirtsleeves or Marine Club to see some for overnight desert trips. fabulous boats go under the Temperatures are inching hammer; buyers come from up the barometer and can 7 GITEX all over the yachting world. nudge 35°C-plus, so air- (www.boatshowdubai.com) conditioned malls provide Snap up some gadget bar- welcome relief. There are gains at this international 2 Dubai World Cup one or two crowd-pulling consumer electronics fair events this month. held over five days at the Dubai’s racing season cul- Dubai International Con- minates in the world’s rich- 2 Al Gaffal vention and Exhibition est horse race but, with no Centre. (www.gitex.com) betting allowed, attention Traditional Dhow turns to the loony fashion- Race 2 Swim the Burj free-for-all of the attendees. This traditional dhow race, (www.dubaiworldcup.com) between the small unin- Benefiting the not-for-profit habited island of Sir Bu organisation Médecins April Na’air and Dubai Marina, Sans Frontières (Doctors has a winner’s purse of Without Borders), this char- It’s still warm rather Dh500,000. Held on the ity event draws hundreds of than blistering but you’ll last Saturday of the month, swimmers to complete the see more tourists as it it’s a photographer’s favour- 1km circle around the icon- is school-holiday time ite. (www.dimc.ae) ic Burj al-Arab hotel. (www during the Easter break. .swimburjalarab.com) This is a rollicking good July month for music-festival 3 Middle East and fashion fans. It is going to be hot, hot, hot – so be sure to International Film z Dubai Fashion don the floppy hat and Festival sunscreen. Ironically, this Stars, directors, critics and Week is low season so you can cinephiles descend upon For the latest local trends, get some seriously good Abu Dhabi to meet, mingle pay attention to the runway flight and hotel deals. and present the latest flicks during this glam showcase from around the region in for regional designers. The 7 Dubai Summer a warm-up to the Dubai Spring/Summer collection is International Film Festival. presented at a second event Surprises (www.meiff.com) in October. (www.dfw.ae) Despite the sizzling time of year, a combination of z Diwali 3 Chill Out Festival free kids’ entertainment and major sales in shop- Lights, candles and fire- A weekend event early in ping malls draws plenty of crackers illuminate this the month, this robust line- tourists for this, the more magical festival of light, up of chilled-out perform- family-focused little sibling which brings together the ers and DJs takes place at of the Dubai Shopping Fes- ever-growing community Nasimi Beach at the Palm tival. (www.mydsf.com) of Indian expats in Dubai. Jumeirah. Recent line-ups Look for traditional sweets at this beachfront location in supermarkets, particular- include Erykah Badu and ly in Deira and Bur Dubai. De La Soul. (www.chillout festivaldubai.com)

22 (Top) Abu Dhabi Grand Prix (Bottom) Opening night party of the Dubai International Film Festival November Plan your Trip Month by Month STR/Reuters/Corbis © 7 Sharjah World ALI HAIDER/epa/Corbis © Book Fair This major regional book fair presents the latest tomes in Arabic, English and other languages. Readings, workshops and symposia supplement the exhibits. (www.swbf.gov.ae) 2 Abu Dhabi Grand Prix The Formula One racing elite tests its mettle on this wicked new track. (www .yasmarina­circuit.com) December z UAE National Day The birth of a nation in 1971 is celebrated across the country on 2 December with a range of events, from boat parades to fire- works, concerts to horse shows and traditional dances to military parades. 3 Dubai International Film Festival This excellent non- competitive film festival is a great place to catch international indie flicks as well as new releases from around the Arab world and the Indian subcontinent. (www.dubaifilmfest.com) 2 Mubadala World Tennis Championship This three-day champion- ship, held in Abu Dhabi’s Zayed Sports City, has big cash prizes and attracts grand-slammers from the international circuit. (www.mubadalawtc.com)

With 23 Kids Junior Foodies Arab culture reveres children and Dubai and Abu Dhabi offer plenty When spirits and feet start to drag, there’s of entertainment for youngsters, plenty of ice cream and kid-friendly meals much of it extravagant in to pick them back up – look for the c sym- novelty value (but not in cost). bol throughout this book. If you’re not sure Waterparks and other adrenalin- where to eat, malls are a sure bet; most fuelled activities are an obvious listed in this book have surprisingly good choice, while hotel pools and food courts. All hotels have at least one beaches are tamer options. restaurant suitable for families, usually the 24-hour cafe or the buffet restaurant. Philip & Karen Smith / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Discerning young diners may like to ease themselves into Middle Eastern cuisine with a shwarma, essentially a hot chicken wrap and suitably tasty (and messy) to be a big hit with most youngsters. Themed Attractions One of Dubai’s latest children’s attractions is the extraordinary KidZania (p80), an interactive miniature city with offices, a school, a racetrack, a fire station, a hospital and bank, and other real-world places. Older kids can head for nearby Sega Repub- lic (p90), an indoor game park with themed areas and motion-simulator rides, while space cadets can get starry-eyed at the space-themed amusement park Stargate, at Za’abeel Park (p67). If you want to crank up the pace a notch or two, take the kids to Ferrari World Abu Dhabi (p119) and have a spin around the Junior Grand Prix. Budding Artists At Café Ceramique (www.cafe-ceramique .com; Festival City) children get to select a ceramic object of their choice – a mug is generally a good bet, and sketch, then paint a design of their choice. The master- piece may then be collected a week later after it has been glazed. It’s a great concept for wannabe artists. Nature Lovers Kids fascinated by the underwater world shouldn’t miss the mesmerising Aquarium & Underwater Zoo (p79) at Dubai Mall, or the labyrinth of underwater tanks and fish-filled tunnels at the Lost Chambers (p106). Children can also get up close and

Pl an your Trip W i t h K i ds24 Need to Know ¨¨Formula & disposable nappies (diapers) Sold at pharmacies and most super- markets. ¨¨Babysitting Peekaboo (www.peekaboo.ae) has créches and play centres for children aged zero to seven years at several shopping malls. ¨¨Kids clubs Many hotels have kids clubs and activities. Ask at reception. ¨¨Strollers & car seats Bring your own. ¨¨Transport Children under five years of age travel free on public transport. personal with dolphins at Dolphin Bay Keeping the Teens Happy (p115) or the Dubai Dolphinarium (p67) at Creekside Park. Back on dry land, the Ris OK, so they’ve done the ski slopes, disco- al-Khor Wildlife Sanctuary (p80) offers danced at the ice rink, splashed around at junior twitchers the chance to see flamin- the waterparks and enjoyed a fashionable gos and other exotic birds through binocu- strut around the malls. Is there more to lars while, further afield, Al-Ain Wildlife prevent teens succumbing to total Park (p129) has a petting zoo, giraffe rides Facebook-deprivation meltdown? Fortu- and spacious enclosures for animals. Abu nately, yes! For the ultimate holiday pic Dhabi also has the educational (and fasci- to impress their pals back home, consider nating) Falcon Hospital (p120). sandboarding, camel riding, an overnight desert safari or even a trekking trip to Chilled-Out Kids the Hajar Mountains. All are offered by several tour companies based in Dubai Pint-sized winter-sport enthusiasts can (p126). Budding musicians may want to cool down with a trip to the Dubai Ice Rink join a drum circle held at a desert camp (p90) at Dubai Mall, or do the Alpine bit (p131), while Olympic-runner wannabes and tackle the snow slopes at Ski Dubai can complete a lap or two with the Dubai (p113) at Mall of the Emirates. Both are also Road Runners (p103). Scuba diving is an- conveniently located for parents who want other option; young divers over 12 years of to indulge in a little kid-free retail therapy. age are eligible for open-water dives with Al Boom Diving (p102). There’s also tennis Playgrounds & Parks (with courts at many midrange to top-end hotels), volleyball and swimming. Children Provided it is not the serious sunburn sea- up to 17 years of age can even go rock son of July and August, Dubai has several climbing at the youth gym SkillZ (p103). parks with picnic areas and playgrounds And, yes, it is a rock-climbing wall – Dubai where children can let off steam. One of has not suddenly sprouted a mountain! the biggest, best and greenest is Creekside Park (p67), with attractions such as a Cool Down at the cable-car ride, botanical garden, tandem Waterparks bikes, a science museum and even a dol- phinarium. Skateboard fiends may prefer Probably the most appealing entertain- to swoop by Za’abeel Park (p67), which ment for hot and bothered kids visiting also has a jogging track and space-age Dubai in summer is a trip to the water- theme park, while tots can feed the ducks park. For some of the best spine-chilling and enjoy the grassy lawns at Al-Safa Park slides, a visit to dramatically positioned (p93) in Jumeirah. Alternatively, head Aquaventure (p115) is a suitable launch for the beach road here and at Jumeirah pad, while the original family favourite, Beach Park, which flanks the sand and has Wild Wadi Waterpark (p102), has gentler playgrounds, barbecue pits, volleyball nets options in addition to thrill-seeking hold- and picnic sites for those tired of sand in onto-your-shorts options. their sarnies.

For Free John Elk III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 25 There is no denying that Dubai Souq Time and Abu Dhabi can easily tempt you to part with loads of dirhams Wandering around the souqs in Bur Dubai (the Gold Souq comes glitteringly (p66) and Deira (p52) has to be one of the to mind…). Fortunately there are most enjoyable and insightful experiences still plenty of freebie attractions, here and, unless you succumb to the per- as well as some cheapie options suasive vendors, it will cost you nothing such as museums, art galleries more than shoe leather. Note that if you and beaches. are interested in making a purchase, start off your barter by offering half the quoted Men’s traditional dance, Shindagha Heritage Area (p66) price. Choose from the textile, perfume, spice, general or gold souq for your explo- ration, and on no account miss the colour- ful bustle of Hindi Lane (p65). If you opt to visit souqs on both sides of the Creek, the traditional abra (water taxi) crossing costs just Dh1. Look for traditional coffee­houses tucked away between the stalls for your midmorning pick-me-up. It will cost you a fraction of the cost of that half-pint of latte-froth back home and is sure to deliver twice the caffeine kick. Traditions & Customs Unabashedly geared towards tourists, Bur Dubai’s Heritage and Diving Vil- lages (p66) on the Shindagha waterfront nonetheless provide real insight into the region’s Bedouin traditions and maritime past. These working villages/museums are particularly entertaining for families, with the only possible cost being the inevita- ble tasting of freshly made traditional sweets and pastries, or the purchase of handc­ rafted souvenirs. Come here in the evening for the most atmosphere and don’t forget your camera. Museum Cheapies Dubai and Abu Dhabi may not have the sheer number of museums of other major tourist destinations, but at least those that are here are free or very cheap. In Bur Dubai, the free Traditional Architecture Museum (p66) provides a fascinating glimpse of traditional Arabic building techniques, while the nearby Sheikh Saeed al-Maktoum House (p66) is an architec- tural gem and provides history buffs with a jaunt back in time for just Dh2. Over the Creek in Deira, the Heritage House (p52) provides a peek at an early wealthy

Plan your Trip For Free26 Need to Know ¨¨Happy Hour Take advantage of happy hour and drinks’ promotions offered by many bars. ¨¨Hotels Prices plummet to up to 50% in July and August. ¨¨Self-Catering Hotel apartments are an inexpensive option and mean serious savings compared to eating out. ¨¨Transport Travel by the reasonably priced metro whenever possible. pearl merchant’s residence with the only city’s congested centre. Creekside Park cost being the non-obligatory coffee and (p67) has pleasant views, a cable car and snacks (Dh1). Next door is the original Al- botanical gardens, while Za’abeel Park Ahmadiya School (p53), dating from 1912, (p67) covers 51 hectares with landscaped which features dioramas of classrooms and gardens, picnic areas and a large lake. Quran lessons. Jumeirah’s Al-Safa Park (p93) has grassy lawns for strolling, while Mushrif Park, on Peruse the Art the airport road (behind Mirdif), is Dubai’s oldest and largest park, covering some 500 Don your sunhat and sunblock, shift into hectares. Bird lovers can head for the Ras exploring mode and head for the al-Khor Wildlife Sanctuary (p80), home to industrial-zone confusion that is Al-Quoz flamingos and other exotic birds. (p80), home to many of Dubai’s most ex- citing art galleries. Many of the galleries Budget Grub feature contemporary young artists prima- rily from the Arab world; others have Tate Good food at cheap prices is relatively easy Modern–style installations. It also costs to find in Dubai, given the large numbers nothing to check out canvases at Gate Vil- of expat workers here. The ubiquitous lage in the city’s Financial District (p82), shwarma fast food is the most obvious where you’ll find some of the most exclu- choice but if you prefer a tablecloth, check sive galleries this side of New York. The out the inexpensive Indian restaurants in Bastakia area of Bur Dubai is home to still Bur Dubai (p67) and Deira (p54) as well as more galleries and art museums, such as Middle Eastern restaurants, particularly the British-run Majlis Gallery (p65), which Lebanese, which offer mezze of generally also runs inexpensive art classes; and the excellent value for quality and quantity. Al Serkal Cultural Foundation (p65), which holds monthly exhibitions of mainly Mid- Sights for Free dle Eastern artists. One of the most spectacular free sights is The Great Outdoors the choreographed dancing fountains at Dubai Mall (p79) with the lit-up drama of Although many of Dubai’s beaches have the Burj Khalifa (p79) as a soaring back- been sadly swallowed up by luxury ho- drop. Similarly iconic, the Burj al-Arab is tels, there are still some free sandy strips best viewed from one of the outdoor cafes where you can take a dip without doling at another scenic winner: the traditional out the dirhams. These include Jumeirah Arabian-style Souq Madinat Jumeirah Open Beach (p94), Kite Beach (p94), Umm (p102). Dubai’s extraordinary shopping Suqeim Beach (p94) and Jumeirah Beach malls cost nothing to wander around. Residence Open Beach (p94), where your Don’t miss the dramatic waterfall and most expensive outlay will be industrial exterior aquarium at Dubai Mall (p79), the quantities of sunblock. stained-glass pyramids at Wafi Mall (p72) and the view of the ski slopes at the Mall of Dubai’s green spaces may be sparse the Emirates (p106). but they offer a welcome respite from the

27 Eating The culinary landscape in Dubai and Abu Dhabi mirrors the population rather than local Emirati culture. In fact, there is little indigenous cuisine (camel-milk chocolates don’t count!). It’s hard to go wrong with Middle Eastern restaurants, while Indian cuisine is also a good bet, particularly if you’re on a tight budget. Asian food is also well represented, with good Thai and lots of Japanese on offer. Wining & Dining and a carrot stick. Fine-dining places may Enjoying a glass of wine with dinner is not have less choice; check websites in advance. standard practice in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. There are essentially two types of restaurant Farsi Food here: the hotel restaurant and the independ- Iranian migrants moved to Dubai in droves ent. Only hotels are licensed to serve alco- around the 1920s; their influence on the cul- hol, which is why they house the city’s top ture, architecture and cooking remains. dining rooms and why they are so popular. Dubai is the perfect place to sample the deep- Alas, because they fall under the umbrellas ly underrated traditional Persian cuisine. of giant corporate hotel chains with strict S&P (standards and procedures) manuals Your appetite will be initially tantalised that effectively flatten individuality, many of by soft, warm-from-the-oven bread rolled these top-end spots lack the uniqueness and around cheese and herbs. Soup is also a eccentricity you might find in a first-class staple of a traditional Persian meal, and the Western restaurant. Head to the independ- preparation of rice is superb, ranging from ent restaurants when you want ethnic the fluffy and light chelo rice to the herb- authenticity; head to the hotels when you saturated pollo rice and the sticky kateh rice. want splash and panache – and a big glass of vino to wash it down. The closest thing Iran has to a national dish is the chelo kebab, a dish of grilled Vegetarian Dining lamb or chicken which has been marinated Dubai and Abu Dhabi are good for vegetar- in onions and lime. Look for hearty lamb ians, with lots of Asian and subcontinental stews on the Persian menu which typically cuisine on offer. The idea of organic food is incorporate subtle spices and combinations still quite new, so plan to eat conventional of okra, aubergine (eggplant) and spinach. produce or shop for yourself at the Organic Finally, wash everything down with dogh, a Foods & Cafe (p88). Many of the Indian res- yogurt drink like the Indian lassi, and fin- taurants, particularly in Deira and Bur Du- ish your meal with falooda, an icy dessert bai, are vegetarian so typically have several of frozen vermicelli noodles, rose water and pages of menu choice. Even those that are cherry syrup. not dedicated vegetarian restaurants still do fantastic things with vegetables, paneer The following choices are a good bet for en- (cheese) and rice. You can also fill up fast at joying an authentic Persian dining experience. Lebanese restaurants with all-veg mezze, Iranian Club (see the boxed text, p110) So authen- while Thai places have plenty of coconut- tic, women have to cover their heads. and-chilli spiced veg curries and soups. Pars Iranian Kitchen (p96) Delightful al fresco Vegans may be more challenged, but cer- setting and authentic tasty dishes. tainly won’t be limited to a few lettuce leaves Shabestan (p54) Sophisticated, pricy and superb Persian cuisine. Special Ostadi (p69) A spit-’n’-sawdust authentic Iranian restaurant.

28 Need to Know Finest Fast Food Prepared authentically, the best fast Price Ranges food ever invented just has to be the shwarma, the staple food of the Middle Pl an Your Trip EAT IN G In our listings we use the following price East. Although it has different names in codes to represent the cost of a main other countries – gyros in Greece and course. döner kebap in Turkey – it’s only known as shwarma in Dubai and Abu Dhabi $ under Dh50 (or shawarma, shawerma, chawerma, but let’s not get too pedantic). While the $$ Dh50–100 Greeks might disagree, this hand-held meal originated in Turkey, where döner $$$ over Dh100 literally means ‘one that turns’, referring to the vertical rotisserie the shwarma meat is Opening Hours cooked on. Strips of marinated meat (usu- ally chicken or lamb) and fat are placed on ¨¨Restaurants are generally open from a huge skewer that rotates in front of the noon to 3pm and from 7.30pm to mid- grill. Dubai is blessed with an enormous night; inexpensive cafe-restaurants are number of shwarma joints but the rule is generally open from 9am to midnight. to eat at those that are busy; they always offer the freshest choice. ¨¨Most restaurants open seven days a week, with the exception of Friday Fine Dining lunch, when some smaller local eateries If you have reserved a table at one of the close. top restaurants in Dubai or Abu Dhabi, do dress up. Casual wear, particularly jeans Reservations and trainers, is not recommended. At ¨¨Make reservations for hotel restau- worst you may be turned away at the door, rants. Be prepared to give your mobile and at best, you’ll feel uncomfortably number, and expect a call if you’re late. underdressed. If you don’t have a reserva- tion, call to ask if there are any seats for ¨¨Make weekend bookings – Thursday walk-ins or last-minute cancellations. and Friday nights, and Friday brunch – for top tables at least a week ahead. Meals with a View Not only can you enjoy a plentiful choice Tipping of fine-dining restaurants here, but you can also relish a stunning view (along with Many restaurants, particularly in hotels, your meal). These range from the steely tack on a 10% service charge, but modernity of dramatic high-rises to the depending on the hotel, the employees evocative, old-fashioned feel of traditional may never see this money. Leave an dhows. additional 10% to 15% in cash, under the ticket, particularly at low-end restau- Aquara (p108) Sleek yachts bobbing against a rants. If service is perfunctory, it’s OK to backdrop of skyscrapers in Dubai Marina. leave a mere 5%. Rivington Grill (p83) Grab a table on the terrace and watch the fabulous dancing fountains How Much? while you dine. Shabestan (p54) Gaze at the ballet of dhows on Street food, such as shwarma, costs the Creek. around Dh4; an inexpensive curry at a Thiptara (p83) Dine on a lakeview deck beneath cheap Indian restaurant costs about the world’s tallest tower. Dh10. At midrange restaurants, mains Vu’s (p85) Top-of-the-world vistas from run from Dh50 to Dh100, at top-end Jumeirah Emirates Towers. spots more than Dh100. Alcohol will send your bill sky-high – from Dh20 to Dh40 for a bottle of beer, or Dh25 to Dh100+ for a glass of wine. Listings Please note that the restaurant list- ings in this book are ordered by author preference.

29 Eating by Neighbourhood Pl an Your Trip EAT IN GThe Gulf 6 6 6 66 6 6 Jumeirah4ú#44 4 #ú#ú44 #ú ú# 44ToNpeinwteDrnuabtiaonialSuBpeurrb DLeubbanaeise Excellent seafood and Indian restaurants restaurants (p95)cuisine with marina views (p107) (p67) Dubai Small aDndeiinreaxpensive Mall ethnic restaurants (p54) # SheikhWZiadeyeradngReooafdDu&baAi round Mall restaurants (p83) Self-Catering the biggest selection but the quality tends The small grocery stores around Dubai to be better (and prices higher) at Spin- are good for a box of washing powder, but neys. Both stock many products from the they’re not much fun to browse if you’re UK, North America and Australia and are a foodie trying to suss out Dubai’s culi- predictably popular with Western expats; nary landscape. The closest thing you’ll they even have separate ‘pork rooms’ that find to a farmers market is the Fruit and are off limits to Muslims. Choithram is Vegetable Market (Map p206) next to the cheaper and caters more to the Indian and Fish Market in Deira. There are several Pakistani communities. Many markets are major supermarket chains with branches open until midnight; some never close. throughout town. Carrefour has probably

30 Best Gourmet Best for Dessert Experiences Lonely Planet’s Top Mazina (p109) Choices Rhodes Mezzanine (p107) Fazaris (p84) Pl an Your Trip EAT IN G Xiao Wei Yang (p54) Fresh Maya (p108) Paul (p71) ingredients are prepared at Rhodes Mezzanine (p107) the table at this down-to-earth Nina (p108) Best Asian Cuisine Mongolian hotpot place. Eauzone (p107) Eauzone (p107) Top-notch Lemongrass (p69) fusion cuisine in a sublime Best for Zheng He’s (p95) poolside setting. Atmosphere Pai Thai (p96) Lemongrass (p69) Enjoy Noodle Bowl (p97) delicately spiced Thai cuisine in Bastakiah Nights (p71) Sho Cho (p121) soothing surroundings. Thiptara (p83) Lime Tree Cafe (p95) Sunshiny Karma Kafe (p84) Best for Steaks flavours meet organic ingredi- Bait Al Wakeel (p69) ents equalling healthy, happy Awtar (p69) Fire & Ice (p70) diners. Tribes (p109) Asha’s (p69) This succulent, Best for Foodie The Meat Company (p96) spicy Indian cuisine is pure Treats Rhodes Mezzanine (p107) papadum perfection. Marco Pierre White Steakhouse & Grill (p122) Best Cheap Eats Best for Gourmet Noodle House (p85) Bateel (p74) Dining Lime Tree Cafe (p95) Organic Foods & Cafe (p88) Ravi (p96) Souq al-Bahar (p79) Traiteur (p54) Lemongrass (p69) Candylicious (p88) Shabestan (p54) Xiao Wei Yang (p54) Peppercrab (p67) Best for Brunch Al-Mahara (p95) Best Indian Cuisine Sayad (p122) Thai Kitchen (p56) Chutneys (p70) Aquara (p108) Khazana (p70) Sezzam (p109) Asha’s (p69) Spectrum on One (p85) Indego (p107) Spice Island (p55) Tiffinbites (p108)

31 Drinking & Nightlife Dubai is a destination famed for its see-and-be-seen nightlife. The best nights are Thursday and Friday – Dubai’s weekend nights – when expats burn off steam from their 12-hour-a-day working week. Plan to head to hotels that are licensed to serve alcohol and which, unsurprisingly, are home to most of the best bars and clubs. Note that Abu Dhabi’s best bars are also found in its licensed hotels, while Sharjah is totally ‘dry’. Which Bar? Pick ’n’ Mix Bars & Pubs Finding the right bar can be tricky. Dubai From gritty to glam, multicultural Dubai is the playground of the parvenu as much has plenty of bars and pubs to match your as it’s a city of expat workers. Choosing an mood. Plan to visit a beach bar in Jumeirah appropriate bar depends on the type of folk or Dubai Marina to see the sun set over the you want to meet. Want to get a sense of Gulf, a quintessential Dubai experience; head the social lives of resident workers? Follow to a fancy spot, whether it be a dance club or the expats. Want to show off that new Marc a lounge, to ogle at arrivistes in impossibly Jacobs outfit you just bought? Follow the high heels; or choose an expat bar to catch a glam crowd. And then there are the niche buzz with overworked Westerners laughing bars, places frequented by, say, Russian too loudly. If you like to make your own dis- oligarchs and British footballers. Occasion- coveries, put down your guidebook and wan- ally, you’ll spot a random dishdasha-clad der the ethnic backstreets of Deira, find a bar local breaking ranks with his countrymen in a no-star hotel, maybe an Iranian or Fili- (and the law) by drinking alcohol alongside pino club, and soak up the colour. Alas, this Westerners, but this is an anomaly. method cannot be recommended for women, single or in groups. There’s much prostitution Ordering Drinks going on in these places and unless you’re Alcohol is expensive, but that doesn’t stop dressed with nun-like modesty, boozed-up rowdy Westerners from downing pint after patrons may mistake you for an easy girl. shot after pint. Nurse your drinks or you’ll shell out a lot of dirhams. Long waits at Sheesha Cafes the bar are common at crowded venues. If you’re not up for drinking, hit the mellow Conversely, waiters are trained to upsell sheesha cafes and play a game of backgam- guests. If you hear ‘Would you like another mon. This is where you’ll spot the locals. round?’, make clear exactly who at the table Emiratis don’t like to be around alcohol, but wants one or you may wind up with a full they sure love coffee. Dubai’s sheesha cafes table of glasses – and a hefty bill. The same also provide great insights into local culture. applies if you order a bottle of wine; waiters Even if you don’t smoke, it’s worth reclining often empty a bottle into one person’s glass languorously and sampling a puff to better rather than divvy the last of it up between understand this traditional male-dominated everyone’s, then look at those whose glasses Middle Eastern pastime. Sheesha cafes are are empty and ask, ‘Another bottle?’ Also, be open until after midnight, later during win- wary when you order a bottle of wine from ter months. The going rate is Dh20 to Dh60 a restaurant wine list as cheaper wines will for all you can inhale. usually be slipped between far more expen- sive bottles, which could easily add a couple Ramadan Restrictions of zeros to your bill if your index finger If you are planning on partying during wavers during ordering! your visit then ensure you avoid Ramadan.

32 Pl an Your Trip D RINKIN G & NI G H T LI F E Need to Know can find ardent club kids grooving beneath disco balls to house music, the preferred Costs sound in Dubai. Thursday and Friday are It’s enough to give anyone the hiccups. the big nights out, when marauding expats You could pay anything from Dh20 to join gyrating tourists on the dance floor. Dh40 for a pint of beer here or Dh25 to For up-to-date details on what’s happening Dh100+ for a glass of wine, depending in the club world, check out the following on quality and vintage. Hotels add a 10% websites. service charge. ¨¨www.dubailook.com ¨¨www.platinumlist.ae Opening Hours ¨¨www.timeoutdubai.com ¨¨Many bars and clubs are open seven ¨¨www.ohmrecords.com days a week, although some close one ¨¨www.infusion.ae day a week. ¨¨Alcohol service is illegal between Club Policies 4pm and 6pm on Friday and Saturday. The door policies obviously vary according ¨¨Hotel bars are generally open from to the venue but it is not unusual for top around 11am to 3pm and from 6pm to clubs to restrict entrance to advance res- midnight. ervations only, particularly if a top inter- ¨¨Smaller venues may close at 1am. national DJ is spinning the discs. Always ¨¨Clubs open later, from around 8pm check websites first. Some clubs are also to 3am, but don’t really get going until guilty of unabashed racist policies, particu- 11pm. larly against southern Asians, while others turn away groups of single men, especially Cover Charges on busy nights. Cover charges range from Dh50 to Dh300 depending on whether there’s a Overall, the Dubai nightclubbing scene is big-name DJ. Ladies should look out for an opportunity for the local fashionistas to specified ‘Ladies’ Nights’ offered at many strut their stuff, so be prepared to seriously bars around town; these generally offer dress up or risk feeling seriously frumpy, or, up to two free drinks, including cocktails. worse still, being turned away at the door. Beachside venues are generally more infor- Listings mal although there will still be plenty of Please note that the drinking and night- designer tags and attitude on display. life listings in this book are ordered by author preference. Transport Tips Although most bars remain open in the ¨¨It’s best not to criss-cross the city on a evening (it is still legal to serve alcohol weekend; traffic is abominable on Thursday and after sundown), live-music venues and Friday nights and taxis can be hard to come by. nightclubs with dancing generally close for ¨¨Stick to a particular area or two for your the entire period – even background music nightlife entertainment, such as Dubai Marina, must be kept to a minimum. Jumeirah, Downtown Dubai, Deira or Bur Dubai. ¨¨Under no circumstances should you ever get Big-name DJs behind the wheel of a car if you’ve had even one DJs spin nearly every night of the week sip of alcohol because… (except during Ramadan), with regular ¨¨Dubai has a zero-tolerance policy on drink- one-off dance events. The repertoire is driving and you could be imprisoned for up to global – funk, soul, house (lots of house), a month if you are caught under the influence trip-hop, hip hop, R&B, African, Arabic and behind the wheel. Latino. Clubbers come out in force when big-name DJs like Pierre Ravan, Roger Buying Alcohol Sanchez and Joey Negro jet in for the week- One of the most common questions among end, but even on a regular old Tuesday, you first-time visitors here is: ‘Can I buy alco- hol?’ The answer is yes – in some places.

33 Drinking & Nightlife by Neighbourhood Pl an Your Trip D RINKIN G & NI G H T LI F EThe Gulf 6 6 6 66 6 6 4û#44 4 #û#û44 û# û# 44BeacNhesiwdeDnuigbhatsipotsJumeirah Live music and and live-music venuestheatre (p97) (p109) ChoicBe uofrsDopuhbisatiicated and casual clubs (p72) Mall of the Emirates # Live-mDuesiircavenues Sheikh Zayed Road & Around and clubs (p57) Boho-cool clubs and art-house cinema (p86) When arriving by air, you can, as a non- The Sin Tax Muslim visitor over 18, buy certain quanti- How exactly do the authorities decide on ties of booze in the airport duty-free shop those sky-high booze prices? Yes, it’s all upon arrival (the limit is 4L of spirits, wine down to a hefty haram (literally ‘forbid- or beer). With the exception of ‘dry’ Sharjah, den’) tax. Consider the following (or go where alcohol and even sheesha (water pipe) teetotal) during your trip. smoking is banned, you can also purchase alcohol in bars and clubs that are generally ¨¨A bottle of Californian plonk that costs US$10 attached to four- and five-star hotels for wholesale automatically incurs a 50% import on-site consumption. Expat residents can tax, upping the importer’s price to $15. acquire an alcohol licence, which entitles them to a fixed monthly limit of alcohol ¨¨Add a 33% profit for the importer, and now it available from alcohol stores. The only store costs $20. where you can officially buy alcohol without a licence is at the Barracuda Beach Resort ¨¨The Dubai-based purchaser (ie the hotel that in the northern emirate of Umm al-Quwain, sells it to the consumer) pays a 30% tax. Now it north of Sharjah, about an hour’s drive costs US$26 – at wholesale. north of Dubai. Note that you are not of- ficially allowed to transport alcohol through ¨¨The hotel then marks up the price 200% to ‘dry’ Sharjah, although most people just make its profit and pay its employees. Now it seem to take the risk anyway. costs about $75. ¨¨At the moment of sale, the public pays an additional 20%, jacking up the final retail price to a whopping $90.

34 Best for Smoochy Hive (p87) Ambience Nasimi Beach (p112) Lonely Planet’s Top Choices Best for Pub Grub Pl an Your Trip D RINKIN G & NI G H T LI F E Rooftop Bar (p109) Indulge in Koubba (p98) Irish Village (p57) a little gentle hip-swinging to 360°(p98) Double Decker (p87) chilled-out sounds while enjoy- Bar Zar (p98) Fibber Magee’s (p87) ing panoramic views. Ku-Bu (p57) Nezesaussi (p87) BiCE Sky Bar (p110) Immensely Rooftop Bar (p109) popular venue providing a Catwalk Club (p112) Best for High-Rollin’ crowd-pleasing mix of heady DJs cocktails and views. Best for Ladies’ Buddha Bar (p111) A gorgeous Nights N’Dulge (p112) bar with candlelight and sump- People by Crystal (p72) tuous decor for true romantics. Blends (p111) Chi (p72) Irish Village (p57) A congenial Nasimi Beach (p112) Zinc (p87) Irish pub with blarney decor, Barasti (p111) a leafy setting and regular live Left Bank (p97) Best for Waterfront music. 1897 (p111) Views Best for Cocktails Best for the Glam Terrace (p57) Crowd Ikandy (p86) Red Lounge (p72) Sho Cho (p98) Uptown Bar (p97) Buddha Bar (p111) Nasimi Beach (p112) Skyview Bar (p97) Red Lounge (p72) Bar 44 (p111) Cin Cin (p86) Best for (Relatively) Cristal (p122) Economical Drinks Best for Panoramic Etoiles (p123) Views Irish Village (p57) Best for Special Old Vic (p72) Maya (p111) Promotions Cooz (p72) Rooftop Bar (p109) Belgian Café (p122) Bar 44 (p111) Bar Zar (p98) Skyview Bar (p97) Terrace (p57) Red Lounge (p72) Neos (p86)

35 Entertainment Generally you don’t come to Dubai if you’re after full-on highbrow entertainment. Live performances tend to be light fare – musicals, cabaret or touring shows. That said, you can find some serious stars on the concert circuit both here and in neighbouring Abu Dhabi: Tom Jones, Paul McCartney and Britney Spears all played to sell-out audiences in 2011. Movie Time Recipe; Arabic folk trio Dahab; hard-rock If you want to catch a movie, you’ve got band Nikotin; and reggae rock by Sho. plenty of high-tech multiplexes to take in the Dubai-based quintet Juliana Down gained blockbusters; almost all are in shopping serious cred when they warmed up the centres. Alternative and art-house cinemas crowd at a 2011 concert of Guns N’ Roses in are practically nonexistent (there’s one Abu Dhabi. Meanwhile, long-term favourite screen at Reel Cinemas in Dubai Mall that Sandwash released the album Master Blast- screens non-mainstream fare). Galleries and er Hole in 2010, a crisp pop-punk selection of alternative venues, such as the XVA Cafe edgy and experimental compositions. (p71), occasionally run one-off film nights. Also check out the Alliance Française (Map Concert Venues p214; %04-335 8712; www.afdubai.org), which International top talent also comes to town, shows weekly films in French and occasion- although many bypass Dubai to give con- ally hosts festivals. Indie screenings are certs at the swanky Yas Arena in Abu Dhabi, usually free and promoted in Time Out. where big names like Paul McCartney ap- Another good site to unearth upcoming peared in 2011. Still, it was Sting, Carlos San- screenings is www.artinthecity.com. tana and Elton John who gave the inaugural concerts at Dubai’s Meydan Racecourse in The Dubai International Film Festival early 2010. Other venues that have hosted (p22), usually held in December, is arguably big stars (such as Robbie Williams, Tom the cinematic highlight of the year. There’s Jones and Jamie Cullum) include the Dubai also the Middle East International Film Media City Amphitheatre, Dubai Festival Festival (p21), held in Abu Dhabi in October, City Arena and the Sevens Stadium. which is seen as a warm-up for the Dubai event. The other weeks of the calendar can Unfortunately, several fledgling mu- be disheartening. The only independent sic festivals, such as Dubai Desert Rock cinemas are dedicated to Tamil, Hindi and Festival and Desert Rhythm, have been Malayalam films, while English-language postponed ‘until further notice’. Thankfully films are restricted to the unadventurous the Dubai International Jazz Festival is an multiplexes. exception and celebrated its 10th anniver- sary in 2012, with James Morrison, Jason Live Music Mraz and Jools Holland included on the Dubai’s live-music scene is finally generating star-studded line-up. a buzz. Although cover bands still predomi- nate, there’s an increasing pool of local tal- Meanwhile, you might also want to keep ent hitting the stages of such venues as Chi an eye out for Middle Eastern and subcon- (p72), Barasti (p111), Fridge (p98), Jambase tinental stars. When you see big posters (p98 and the Irish Village (p57). Homeg­ rown and hear multiple radio ads for acts you’re bands to keep an ear out for include metal unfamiliar with, do a quick Google search to band Nervecell; the hip-hop collective The find out where they’re from. There’s a reason they’re so popular. Lebanese, Indian,

Pl an Your Trip EN T ER TAIN M EN T36 Pakistani and Iranian acts draw big crowds of expat locals… This is the stuff Need to Know you can’t hear back home. Check Time Out and 7 Days magazines for the latest Costs line-up. Costs vary wildly, depending on whether you’re hearing a jazz trio in a snazzy bar The Arts where a glass of wine can easily cost Dubai’s performing arts scene is still in Dh50, or attending a big-name concert its infancy, but there are some new venues with tickets typically starting at Dh200. that give hope for an increasingly bright future. The Dubai Community Theatre and Music Bans Arts Centre (DUCTAC; p112) is one of the Dancing and loud music in public few spaces that also trains the spotlight on places is strictly forbidden. This includes local talent. beaches, parks and residential areas; dancing is restricted to licensed venues Hitting the Town only. If you are doing some gyrating at a For entertainment listings, your safest bet bar without a music licence, you may be is the weekly Time Out magazine, although unceremoniously asked to stop. the freebie 7 Days is also worth a glance. Look for free guides and leaflets promot- Door Policies ing clubs, dance parties and gigs; find These obviously vary according to the them at bars, cafes, Virgin Megastore (p61) venue but it is not unusual for top clubs and Ohm Records (p74). The same places to restrict entrance to advance reserva- should also have copies of Infusion, an tions only, particularly when a top inter- excellent free biweekly pocket-sized mag national DJ is spinning the discs. Always covering clubs, bars, movies, music, check websites first. fashion and other lifestyle topics. Entertainment Hours As usual, the most current information ¨¨Clubs open late, from around 8pm is on the web. Infusion’s website (www. to 3am, but don’t really get going until infusion.ae) has an up-to-the-minute party 11pm. schedule. The same goes for the online club ¨¨Concerts kick off late, generally not guide on www.platinumlist.ae, which also before 10pm. lets you book tickets to the major events. Drinking Otherwise, for tickets to concerts and It is worth repeating in this section that other shows, phone the Time Out ticket- Dubai has zero tolerance of drinking and line on %800 4669 (%+971 4 210 8567 driving, so if you intend to have a drink from overseas). Or buy online at either at the concert venue bars, leave the car www.timeouttickets.com or www.box at home. officeme.com.

Blaine Harrington III/Corbis © 37 Stained-glass dome of Wafi Mall (p72) Shopping Dubai loves to shop. The city has just about perfected the art of the mall, which is the de facto ‘town plaza’: the place to go with the family, hang out with friends and be entertained. Dubai malls have ski slopes, ice rinks and aquariums. They look like ancient Persia, futuristic movie sets or a little bit of Disneyland, surrounded by desert.

38 Pl an Your Trip S HOPPIN G Need to Know Festival (p73). The souqs in Deira and Bur Dubai can equal good prices, providing Opening Hours you are willing to haggle. In general, cut the first suggested price by half and start Malls in Dubai open from 10am to 10pm from there. The Deira Gold Souq is one Sunday to Wednesday, from 10am to of the cheapest places in the world to buy midnight Thursday to Saturday (week- gold and, because the regulations regard- ends), and later during the Dubai Shop- ing authenticity are very strict here, you ping Festival and Ramadan (often until can be sure that if you are considering a 1am). Traditionally, souqs and non-mall 24-carat bauble, then it is undoubtedly stores close a few hours during the after- genuine. Small Indian- or Asian-run noon for prayer, lunch and rest, and don’t department stores are also good places to open on Fridays until late afternoon, pick up bargain basics, as long as you’re but that’s changing. These days many not looking for anything of fashion cat- remain open all day. Malls get packed on walk calibre. And don’t miss the Dubai Friday nights. Flea Market (www.dubai-fleamarket.com), held on the first Saturday of the month at Returns Al-Safa Park in Jumeirah, where you can find just about everything – including the Try before you buy and ask about return kitchen sink. policies, especially for gifts. Many stores offer returns for store credit only. When Main Malls in doubt, consider a gift certificate, which generally has an extensive expira- Dubai Mall (p88) The shopper’s Shangri-La, tion period and with international chains Dubai Mall is the largest shopping mall in the can often be used online. world. Websites Mall of the Emirates (p112) Another whopper, ¨¨www.quickdubai.com Great for probably most famous for its indoor ski slope. gifts, including last-minute essentials BurJuman Centre (p72) Especially good for such as cakes and flowers. high-end fashion. ¨¨www.sukar.com A private online Mirdif City Centre (p58) Opened in 2010 with a shopping site offering top discounts on superb range of shops, plus a massive play station known brands. You will need an invite – for kids. persevere, you won’t be sorry. Ibn Battuta Mall (p113) Covers six country- ¨¨www.souq.com A local version of themed courts on one easy-to-navigate level. eBay with some top bargains and plenty Deira City Centre (p58) One of the first malls to of variety. open here. ¨¨www.nahel.com A great range of Dubai Festival Centre (p61) A pretty canalside products, including electronics, per- setting, plus great restaurants and shops. fumes and watches. Marina Mall (p113) More than 400 shops on the ¨¨www.berrybehaved.com Includes breakwater, plus a huge activity centre for kids. home-decor items and stylish Abu Dhabi Mall (p123) A tempting choice of bou- accessories. tiques, designer stores and international chains. ¨¨www.emiratesavenue.com Great for the latest electronics, including TVs and Best Buys iPhones. Bedouin Jewellery Listings ¨¨The listings in this title are in order of Bedouin jewellery is brilliant in Dubai and author preference. with the steady popularity of boho ethnic chic, makes a great gift. Look for elaborate How to Find a Bargain silver necklaces and pendants, chunky ear- The range of stores – high-street to de- rings and rings, and wedding belts, many signer, electronics to carpets – is amazing, of which incorporate coral, turquoise and but true bargains are as rare as tulips in semiprecious stones. Very little of the Tonga, except during the Dubai Shopping older Bedouin jewellery comes from the

39 Shopping by Neighbourhood Pl an Your Trip S HOPPIN GThe Gulf 6 6 6 66 6 6 4þ#44 4 þ#þ#44 #þMaNgneiwficDenutbMaaill ofJumeirah Indie fleathe Emirates (p112) mboaurktieqtu(eps9a9n)dJMumoseqirua#ehTBaaiulno(rdrpsDm7, 2sua)oblulsaqis 4 4þ# SheikDhuZbaaiyMeadll:Rtoheadwo&rldA’sround GoldDaenirdaSpice Souqs (p58) largest (p88) Emirates; most of it originates in Oman, cate of authentication guaranteed by the Yemen and Afghanistan. Dubai Chamber of Commerce & Industry, so you can be sure that the carpet actually Exotic Delicacies comes from where the vendor says it does. Fragrant Iranian and Spanish saffron costs Kitsch Souvenirs far less here than it does back home. Buy it in Deira’s Spice Souq or in supermarkets. The ultimate kitsch souvenir used to be a Honey from Saudi Arabia and Oman is colourful mosque clock with an irritating scrumptious. Look for it in speciality shops call-to-prayer alarm. Now the souqs and in Satwa, in the Spice Souq and in super- souvenir shops overflow with wacky, kitsch markets. Its colour ranges from light gold gifts – glass Burj al-Arab paperweights, to almost black. wooden Russian dolls painted as Emiratis, Barbie and Ken dolls in Emirati dress, Carpets key rings strung with miniature towers, camel-crossing-sign fridge magnets, and Dubai is a carpet-lover’s paradise. Fine Per- coffee mugs and baseball caps with Sheikh sian carpets, colourful Turkish and Kurd- Zayed or Sheikh Mohammed waving to the ish kilims, and rough-knotted Bedouin crowd. rugs are all widely available. Dubai has a reputation in the region for having the Perfume & Incense highest-quality carpets at the best prices. Bargaining is the norm. If you can’t secure Attars (Arabian perfumes) are spicy and the price you want, head to another store. strong. Historically, this was a necessity: When you buy a carpet, ask for a certifi- with precious little water, washing was a

40 Pl an Your Trip S HOPPIN G sometimes-thing, so women smothered breadth of stock. There are a whopping themselves in attars and incense. As you 700 jewellery stores in Dubai, with nearly walk past Emirati women, catch a whiff of 300 at the Gold Souq and about 90 at the their exotic perfume. You can find Arabian- Gold & Diamond Park. perfume shops in all Dubai’s malls, but we highly recommend you visit Deira’s Arabian Handicrafts & Souvenirs Perfume Souq, a small stretch lined with perfume stores along Sikkat al-Khail and Arabian handicrafts are as popular with Al-Soor Sts in Deira, just east of the Gold Dubai visitors as carpets, gold and per- Souq. fume. The Oriental decor of the city’s top-end hotels and restaurants seems to Shopping for perfume can wear out inspire travellers to pack away little pieces your sense of smell. If you’re in the market of exotica to recreate their own little for Arabian scents, do what top perfum- genie bottles back home. Head to the souqs ers do to neutralise their olfactory palate: for Moroccan coloured lanterns, Syrian close your mouth and make three forceful rosewood furniture inlaid with mother-of- exhalations through your nose. Blast the pearl, Arabian brass coffee pots, Turkish air hard, in short bursts, using your dia- miniature paintings, and embroidered phragm. Blowing your nose first is prob- Indian wall hangings and cushion covers ably a wise idea…. Some people incorrectly dotted with tiny mirrors. say to smell coffee grounds, but all this practice does is numb your sense of smell. Gourmet Products Textiles The de rigeur gift for any proper gourmet, Bateel dates (www.bateel.ae) are the Vendors at Bur Dubai Souq and along ultimate luxury food of Arabia. Bateel nearby Al-Fahidi St carry vibrant, colour- dates will spoil you for the more standard ful textiles from the Indian subcontinent variety, for ever. The dates come from and southeast Asia. They’re remarkably Saudi Arabia, which has the ideal grow- cheap, but quality varies. Silk, cotton and ing conditions: sandy, alkaline soil and linen represent the best value. Dubai’s extreme heat. Quality control is tight: tailors work quickly, and their rates are Bateel has its own farms and production very reasonable. Prices start at around equipment. The dates sold here are big and Dh35 for a shirt or skirt. Draperies may fat, with gooey-moist centres. Because they cost as little as Dh10 apiece. have a 70% sugar content, dates technical- ly have unlimited shelf life, but you’ll find Electronics they taste best around the autumn harvest. If it plugs into a wall you can buy it in At first glance, Bateel boutiques look Dubai. Because of minimal duties, Dubai like a jewellery store, with polished-glass is the cheapest place in the region to buy display cases and halogen pin spots illu- electronics and digital technology. The minating the goods. A closer look reveals selection is huge. Research products of perfectly aligned pyramids of dates – thou- interest before hitting the stores though; sands of them. Bateel plays to its audience sales staff don’t always know enough. For with gorgeous packaging that might leave the lowest prices and no-name brands, the recipient of your gift expecting gold or head to Al-Fahidi St in Bur Dubai and the silver within. area around Al-Sabkha and Al-Maktoum Hospital Rds, near Baniyas Sq, known The stuffed dates make a great gift – try as the Electronics Souq. If you want an the candied orange peel and caramelised international warranty, shell out the extra almonds. If you miss your chance in town money and head to a mall, Carrefour or (there are several branches), you can stock Jumbo Electronics. up at the airport as you leave Dubai. A cardboard box will set you back Dh120 per Gold & Gems kilogram, a fancy box Dh200, and a little beribboned sampler of five or seven perfect The City of Gold’s glistening reputation dates around Dh30. grows from low prices and the sheer

41 Lonely Planet’s Bateel (p74) Global Village (p73) Top Choices Lata’s (p102) Art Dubai (p20) Ajmal (p74) Exotic Arabian Best for Accessories Best Shopping Pl an Your Trip S HOPPIN G essential oils and perfumes sold Malls in exquisitely beautiful bottles. Marami (p88) S*uce (p99) Sassy avant-garde Blue Cactus (p100) Dubai Mall (p88) fashions from a wide range of Topshop (p101) Mall of the Emirates (p112) young international designers. Forever 21 (p114) BurJuman Centre (p72) Candylicious (p88) Realise Ginger & Lace (p113) Mirdif City Centre (p58) your ultimate sweet dream at this colourful giant-size candy Best for Best for Body store. Electronics Beautiful United Designers (p58) Showcasing exciting young local Al-Ain Centre (p74) Faces (p74) designers with totally original Jumbo Electronics (p114) Lush (p60) fashion. Bang & Olufsen (p75) Ajmal (p74 Ginger & Lace (p113) Sexy Fono (p114) fashions in silky fabrics with lots Best Mall of floral and lace. Entertainment Best Cut-Price Best for Women’s Ski Dubai (p113) Shopping Streets Fashion Dubai Ice Rink (p90) Dubai Fountain (p79) Khalid bin al-Waleed Rd, If (p99) Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Bur Dubai (Map p210) S*uce (p99) Zoo (p79) Al-Fahidi St, Bur Dubai (Map Luxecouture (p100) p210) Ginger & Lace (p113) Best ‘Faux’ Al-Hisn St & 73 St, Bur Dubai Bauhaus (p114) Souqs (Map p210) United Designers (p58) Al-Rigga Rd, Deira (Map p206) Souq Khan Murjan (p72) Al-Satwa Rd, Satwa (Map 218) Souq al-Bahar (p88) Souq Madinat Jumeirah (p102) Best for Gifts Best Shopping Festivals O’ de Rose (p99) Camel Company (p102) Dubai Shopping Festival (p73) Dubai Summer Surprises (p73)

42 Sports & Activities Before the boom, Emiratis spent their free time watching camel races, riding horses and boating. Today, sports and activities in Dubai and Abu Dhabi have broadened to reflect the new population. You could spend an afternoon skittering across the surf on a kiteboard or enjoying a luxury spa treatment. And if you can’t stand the sweltering heat – there’s always Ski Dubai. Health & Fitness Arthur Murray Dance School (www.arthur The health-and-fitness set is composed murraydubai.com) with branches in New primarily of Western expats. With so many Dubai (p115) and Souq al-Bahar (p79). people working so hard to continue wearing Private classes are also available. their skinny jeans, they gravitate to health clubs, yoga studios and fitness centres, and Skiing Dubai is full of sore muscles. Consequently, The largest indoor ski slope in the world, massage and beauty-treatment schedules at Ski Dubai (p113; www.skidxb.com), located at day spas fill up fast: book ahead. If you prefer the Mall of the Emirates, is an essential for swimming in salt water instead of chlorine, winter-sport enthusiasts. You can also take check out one of the public or paid beaches. lessons and learn how to snowboard. Day Spas & Massage Running Though you can get a good rub-down at The winter months are cool enough for run- most sports clubs, for the proper treatment ning nearly anytime during the day; in sum- book a dedicated spa. Dubai’s spas like to mer you’ve got to get up with the sun to jog incorporate food into their treatments – with no fear of heatstroke. There are excel- berries, chocolate, even gingerbread at lent jogging tracks in Al-Safa Park (p93) and Christmas. If you’re dubious, more- Za’abeel Park (p67), and along Jumeirah conventional treatments are also available. Beach (p94). Prefer running with company? Make reservations as far in advance as Check out the Dubai Road Runners (p103) or possible for top spas such as Amara (p61) the Dubai Creek Striders (www.dubaicreek and the Oriental Hammam (p115). Ask if a -striders.com; Sheikh Zayed Rd). If you’re into spa treatment includes use of the pool and the more social aspects of running (read: grounds. If it does, make a day of it – arrive drinking afterwards), look into Dubai’s early and wait poolside. Note: facials look ‘hashing’ clubs at www.deserthash.org. The best the next day, so if you have a fancy Dubai Marathon (p20) takes over city streets dinner engagement and want to look great, in January. get the treatment the day before. Most spas offer manicures and pedicures, but if Water Sports you want a dedicated nail salon, try Nail Spa (www.thenailspa.com); there are several Diving branches around town, including one in the Mercato Mall in Jumeirah (Map p218). Diving around Dubai means mostly nosing around shipwrecks on the sandy seabed Dancing of the Gulf at a depth of between 10m and Strictly Come Dancing fans can take classes 35m. The better sites are generally a long in everything from the foxtrot to the night- way offshore and mostly for experienced club two-step at the renowned US-founded divers. Creatures you might encounter in- clude clownfish, sea snakes, Arabian angel- fish and possibly even rays and barracuda.

43 For novices, the sites off the United Arab Need To Know Pl an Your Trip S POR T S & AC T I V I T IE S Emirates (UAE) East Coast (Khor Fakkan and Dibba; see p132) are most suitable. Planning Ahead Also popular are dive spots still further north, off the rugged Musandam Penin- Dubai and Abu Dhabi host some top sula, which is actually part of Oman. How- sports events over the year and it’s ever, fast-flowing currents here require a imperative that you reserve your place higher level of experience. In recent times, and book tickets in advance, especially the eastern shores have been beleaguered for such grand-slam events as by the red tide (see the boxed text, p164), so Abu Dhabi’s Grand Prix. be sure to ask dive operators about condi- tions. A day’s diving includes two dives Time of Year and costs around Dh300 to Dh450, includ- ing the boat ride and equipment. If you are planning to attend or partici- pate in an event, bear in mind the time of For details on the top dive and snorkel- year, as this can dramatically impact the ling sites in the UAE and the Musandam, cost of your stay with hotels and flights consult the 180-page UAE Underwater costing considerably more outside the Explorer (www.explorerpublishing.com). midsummer months. Kitesurfing Buying Tickets Check websites for relevant reservations Kitesurfers congregate at northwest-facing procedures. The following sites are good Kite Beach (p94), aka Wollongong Beach, sources of ticket info and booking: where there’s a designated launch and ¨¨www.boxofficeme.com recovery area. It’s about 3km north of the ¨¨www.itp.net/tickets Burj al-Arab, past Umm Suqeim Hospital ¨¨www.dubaisportscity.ae in the district of Umm Suqeim 1. Novices should take a few lessons (about Dh300 per Costs hour). Qualified instructors can be found Costs obviously vary wildly depending at Duco Maritime (%050 870 3427; www on the event, but you can reckon on .ducomaritime.com). spending around Dh2000 on a three-day Grand Prix pass, Dh230 on a top rugby Surfing match and Dh230 on a ticket for a golf tournament such as the Omega Dubai Jumeirah’s Open Beach is home to Dubai’s Desert Classic. longest-standing surf school, with lessons available daily from 9am to 5pm, depend- %04-205 4646; www.dubaigolf.com; near Deira ing on surf conditions. Board rental is side of Al-Garhoud Bridge) offers boat charters Dh50 an hour or Dh200 a day. For details, aboard skippered 33ft vessels. A one-hour see Surf Dubai (%050 622 3020; www.surfing Creek cruise costs Dh800, while three- dubai.com). hour trips taking in the Palm Deira are Dh2200. The six-hour trip (Dh3800) goes Waterskiing down the coast to the Palm Jumeirah via the Burj al-Arab. Waterskiing in the polluted Dubai Creek is not recommended. Instead, head to Waterparks Dubai Marina or Abu Dhabi. Waters­ kiing at a Gulf-front five-star hotel with its Dubai has two waterparks: Wild Wadi own beach club costs around Dh150 for Waterpark (p102) and Aquaventure (p115). 20 minutes – which, if you’re a novice, is a long time. Nonguests must also pay a Gyms daily admission fee for access to the hotel Nearly every hotel in Dubai has a gym, but grounds and beach club (usually about the equipment is often chosen by people Dh75 to Dh250). Try Le Meridien Mina who don’t work out. The worst have only Seyahi (p94), where beach access costs a few stationary bikes and a cumbersome Dh150 (Dh250 on Friday and Saturday) all-in-one machine with too many cables and waterskiing Dh150. and pulleys that constantly need adjust- ing. The best have a full complement Boat Charter To get a perspective on just how far the city now stretches, see it from the water. Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club (Map p208;

44 Pl an Yo ur Trip S POR T S & AC T I V I T IE S of top-end circuit- and weight-training Dibba. If you don’t have a 4WD, you can equipment. Admission to gyms generally still find some beautiful spots within walk- costs about Dh100 for a one-day pass; it’s ing distance of well-paved roads. twice that at a top-end hotel, but you’ll gain access to the resort’s grounds, tennis Make sure you are adequately equipped courts and swimming pool. If you’re going and are carrying a fully charged mobile to a hotel gym, get your money’s worth by phone (preferably a GPS), sunscreen, insect making a day of it. repellent and plenty of water. Golf Don’t even consider camping between May and September when the days are scorching and the nights hot and humid. Dubai has become a big golfing destination Spectator Sports and boasts several championship courses designed by big names – such as Greg Horse Racing Norman, designer of Jumeirah Golf Estates (www.jumeirahgolfestates.com), the The single biggest sport among elite Emi- first phase of which opened in November ratis is horse racing, with races held at the 2009 in time to stage the European Tour’s superb Meydan Racecourse (p89; www first Dubai World Championship. Overall, . meydan.ae/racecourse), a futuristic stadium clubs don’t require memberships but green with a grandstand bigger than most airport fees can soar to Dh850 for 18 holes during terminals. Spanning 1.6km, it has a solar- the peak winter season (roughly mid- and titanium-panelled roof, can accommo- November to late March), although they date up to 60,000 spectators and integrates drop the rest of the year, especially in a five-star hotel. For the exact racing sched- summer. Proper attire is essential. If you’re ule and tickets, contact Dubai Racing Club serious about golf, reserve your tee times (www.dubairacingclub.com). Even if you don’t as soon as you book your hotel and flight. like horse racing, attending a race presents great people-watching opportunities. Desert Rallying & Sandboarding Camel Racing Off-road driving in the desert (also disturb- ingly known as ‘dune bashing’) is hugely Traditionally, camels were raced by child popular. At weekends, the city’s traffic-tired jockeys, sometimes as young as six or workers zip down the Dubai–Hatta road seven years and weighing less than 20kg. and unleash their pent-up energy on the They were often ‘bought’ from impover- sand dunes, such as the ruby-red heap of ished families in Pakistan or Bangladesh, sand halfway to Hatta nicknamed ‘Big Red’. trained in miserable conditions and kept deliberately underweight. International All the major car-hire companies can human-rights groups decried the practice provide 4WD vehicles. Expect to pay and in 2005 the UAE issued a ban on the around Dh500 for 24 hours for a Toyota use of children. Human jockeys have since Fortuner or a Hummer H3, plus CDW (Col- been replaced with robotic ones operated lision Damage Waiver) of Dh60 and an remotely by their owners, who race around extra Dh12 for personal insurance. the inside track in their SUVs, cheering on their camels. Trust us, it’s a weird sight. We strongly recommend a few hours of training before you drive off-road If you want to watch camel racing, head for the first time. Desert Rangers (Map to the Al Marmoom Camel Racetrack, p220; www.desertrangers.com; 4hr driving around 45 minutes from the city on the course per car Dh1800, sandboarding adult/ Dubai–Al-Ain E66 road. Races are held child Dh250/160) provides basic and ad- from October to March at 7am and 2pm, vanced courses. It also organises half-day mainly at weekends. Call ahead on %04- sandboarding safaris with a camel ride 832 6526 to confirm. Entrance is free. included in the price. Motor Racing Desert Camping If you’ve hired a 4WD, the possibilities Motor sports are exceedingly popular with for camping are fantastic. You can head Emiratis. The Emirates Motor Sports to the windswept sand dunes of Liwa, the Federation (EMSF; www.emsf.ae) holds events wadis near Hatta, the mountains of Ras al- throughout the year, with the important Khaimah or the East Coast beaches around ones scheduled to take place during the cooler months. A round of the FIA Cross- Country Rally World Cup, the Abu Dhabi

45 Desert Challenge (www.abudhabidesert Competition Sports Calendar Pl an Your Trip S POR T S & AC T I V I T IE S challenge.com) brings top rally drivers to the UAE from around the world in March. Dubai Marathon (www.dubaimarathon.org) There are several smaller rallies in Sweat it out in January with thousands of other February and March, including the 1000 runners or just cheer ’em on during this popular Dunes Rally and the Spring Desert Rally, street race with a prize fund of a million dollars. In which are both 4WD events. Visit EMSF’s 2010, Haile Gebrselassie won the race for the third website for details. year in a row. Less-energetic types can enter a 10km run or a 3km ‘fun run’. UAE Football Dubai Desert Classic (www.dubaidesert classic.com) The golfing elite, including Rory On winter weeknights, neighbourhood McIlroy and Henrik Stenson, comes to town for stadiums in Dubai are packed with up to this fine February event, held at the Emirates 10,000 spectators – mostly young Emirati Golf Club (p116). There have been some thrilling men – passionately barracking for their finishes over the past couple of years – the 18th favourite football teams. Surprisingly, hole has become legendary on the PGA circuit. most foreigners (expats or visitors) hardly Dubai Tennis Championships (www.dubai attend the matches. And they’re rarely tennischampionships.com) Big-name players like covered by the local English-language Serena Williams and Novak Djokovic volley away at press. If you’re a football fan, attend a this two-week pro event in February at the Aviation match once and you may be hooked – the Club (p62). The women play in the first week, men carnival atmosphere is electric. Fans dress in the second. It’s a big opportunity to see some up in colour-coordinated outfits, and a great hitting in a relatively small stadium. singer and band of drummers lead song Dubai World Cup (www.dubaiworldcup.com) and dance routines to inspire their teams. Racing season culminates in March with the world’s richest horse race, now held at the Meydan Founded in 1973, the United Arab Emir- Racecourse (p89). Prize money rings up at a ates (UAE) football league was renamed record-holding US$10 million. While there’s no UAE Premier Division for the 2009/10 betting, this is the city’s biggest social event, with season and consists of a dozen teams. Tem- local society women sporting the silliest hats this pers may flare during matches between side of Ascot. Godolphin, the stable owned by the old rivals: Al-Ahli, Sheikh Moham- Dubai’s royal family, tends to dominate proceed- med’s red-and-white jersey team, and the ings on the racetrack. purple-clad Al-Ain. Dubai-based Al-Ahli Dubai Rugby Sevens (www.dubairugby7s.com) also represented the UAE in the 2009 FIFA Held in November or December, this is the first Club World Cup, held in Abu Dhabi, losing round of the eight-leg International Rugby Board 0-2 to Auckland City in their only game. In Sevens World Series. The three-day event features the 2010 FIFA club tournament, the Abu 16 international squads, various amateur teams Dhabi–based Al-Wahda team represented and live entertainment. Up to 150,000 spectators the UAE. make the pilgrimage to the spanking-new ‘The Sevens’ stadium, about 30 minutes south of Sheikh If you would like to attend a football Zayed Rd on the Al-Ain Rd. Book well ahead. match, check the www.dubaifootball.com and www.football7s.com websites, which Dubai World Championship Golf Tourna- include schedules and venues of upcoming ment (www.dubaiworldchampionship.com) This matches. You can purchase tickets via these major new golfing championship in November is sites or from the dedicated ticket agencies the crowning tournament of the Race to Dubai. It listed in the Need to Know section. pits the PGA European Tour’s top players against each other in 49 tournaments in 26 destinations Rugby over the course of one year. Held since 2008/9, it replaced the European Tour Order of Merit and Dubai’s rugby club, Dubai Exiles Rugby comes with a purse of US$7.5 million. It’s played on Club (www.dubaiexiles.com), has been head- the new Jumeirah Golf Estates, which will eventually quartered at a slick new stadium called consist of four courses designed by Greg Norman, The Sevens, located about 30 minutes Sergio Garcia, Vijay Singh and Pete Dye. outside Dubai on the Al-Ain Rd. The Exiles are a founding member of the Arabian Gulf Rugby Football Union and put on one of Dubai’s biggest sporting events, the Dubai Rugby Sevens (www .dubairugby7s.com), an annual three-day event featuring 16 international squads held in November or December.

46 Jean-Pierre Lescourret / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © architect tom wright Explore Dubai & Abu Dhabi Neighborhoods at a Jumeirah. . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Day Trips Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 from Dubai. . . . . . . . . . 124 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Deira. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Sharjah. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 97 Al-Ain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 98 UAE East Coast. . . . . . . . . . 130 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 57 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . 102 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . 134 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 New Dubai. . . . . . . . . 104 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 61 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Bur Dubai. . . . . . . . . . . 63 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . 109 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 72 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 115 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 75 Abu Dhabi . . . . . . . . . . 117 Sheikh Zayed Road Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 & Around. . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . 122 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 123 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 86 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Sports & Activities. . . . . . . . 89



48 Neighbourhoods at a Glance 1 Deira (p50) sugary tea and haggle for bargains with trad- ers whose families have tended the same Deira feels like a cross between Cairo and shop for generations. Karachi. Dusty, crowded and chaotic, it’s a world away from the slick and sanitised 2 Bur Dubai (p63) city piercing the clouds at the other end of town. At the Dhow Wharfage, colourful Bustling Bur Dubai is home to the restored wooden boats arrive from Iran with boxes historical quarters of Bastakia and Shinda- of cuddly toys, televisions and batteries to gha, wonderful for late afternoon and evening be sold at the nearby souqs. At these atmos- strolls. Bur Dubai Souq is just as lively as pheric ancestors to today’s malls, you can sip the Deira souqs with the aesthetic plus of 0 5 km 0 2.5 miles 66666666 The DWorld RdThe Gulf RKahsoarl-Rd Palm 6e# Jumeirah 6 4DUBAI Burj al- Arab 4MARINA 54 4 4 44 4 4SheikhZayed Rd æ# Jumeirah Rd JUMEIRAH DUBAI MEDIA Al-Wasl Rd # 4CITY # UMM Art Sheikh ZSaUyeQdERIMd Galleries SAFA TECOM æ# DOWNTOWN AL-QUOZ DUBAI #þ Dubai 3Al-Awir # Mall Jebel Ali Racecourse Al Kh ail Rd AL- MARQADH Meydan Racecourse LF