Lonely Planet New York City

99 at the machine, a 20-something obsessed pouring drinks on this corner since 1874. with Nicaraguan coffee beans. A must for And while SoHo may have changed over the the coffee cognoscenti. years, Fanelli’s remains true to its earthy roots – tinted mirrors, hanging pugilists MADAM GENEVA COCKTAIL BAR and all. Skip the average food; you’re here to swill and reminisce. Map p412 (%212-254-0350; www.madamgeneva- nyc.com; 4 Bleecker St, at Bowery; h6pm-2am; b6 to Bleecker St; B/D/F/M to Broadway- Lafayette St) Hanging lanterns, leather 3 ENTERTAINMENT couches and flouncy wallpaper echo colonial Nanyang at this dark and sultry cocktail den. Gin-based cocktails domi- oJOE’S PUB LIVE MUSIC nate, meticulously crafted and suitably Map p412 (%212-539-8500, tickets 212-967- So H o & C h i n atow n E nterta i nment 7555; www.joespub.com; Public Theater, 425 La- paired with Asian-inspired bites such as fayette St, btwn Astor Pl & 4th St; b6 to Astor Pl; sambal deviled eggs, duck steamed buns, and chicken wings with Korean chili sauce. R/W to 8th St-NYU) Part bar, part cabaret and performance venue, intimate Joe’s serves Next door lies hotspot sibling restaurant up both emerging acts and top-shelf per- Saxon + Parole (Map p412; %212-254-0350; www.saxonandparole.com; 316 Bowery, at Bleeck- formers. Performers have included caustic comic Sandra Bernhard and British song- er St; mains $20-32; h5-10pm Mon, to 11pm Tue- stress Adele. In fact, it was right here that Fri, 10am-11pm Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; W; b6 to Bleecker S; B/D/F/M to Broadway-Lafayette St). Adele gave her very first American perfor- mance back in 2008. MULBERRY PROJECT COCKTAIL BAR FILM FORUM CINEMA Map p415 (%646-448-4536; www.mulberry Map p412 (%212-727-8110; www.filmforum.com; project.com; 149 Mulberry St, btwn Hester & Grand Sts; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; 209 W Houston St, btwn Varick St & Sixth Ave; b1 to Houston St) This three-screen cinema bN/Q/R, J/Z, 6 to Canal St) Lurking behind an screens an astounding array of independ- unmarked door is this intimate, cavernous cocktail den, with its festive, ‘garden-party’ ent films, revivals and career retrospectives from greats such as Sidney Lumet. Theaters backyard one of the best spots to chill in the are small, as are the screens, so get there hood. Bespoke, made-to-order cocktails are the specialty, so disclose your preferences early for a good viewing spot. Showings are often combined with director talks or other and let the barkeep do the rest. If you’re film-themed discussions. peckish, choose from a competent list of bites that might include peach salad with pecorino cheese. 7 SHOPPING APOTHÉKE COCKTAIL BAR SoHo bursts at its fashionable seams with stores, big and small. Hit Broadway Map p415 (%212-406-0400; www.apothekenyc. for Main St chains, or the streets to the com; 9 Doyers St; h6:30pm-2am Mon-Sat, 8pm- west of it for higher-end fashion and 2am Sun; bJ/Z to Chambers St; 4/5/6 to Brook- accessories. Over on Lafayette, shops lyn Bridge-City Hall) It takes a little effort to cater to the DJ and skate crowds with track down this former opium-den-turned- indie labels and vintage shops thrown apothecary bar on Doyers St. Inside, skilled into the mix. If indie-chic is your thing, barkeeps work like careful chemists, using continue east to Nolita, home of tiny local, seasonal produce from greenmarkets jewel-box boutiques selling unique to produce intense, flavorful ‘prescriptions.’ threads, kicks and accessories. Mott St is Toast to your health with the likes of MVO best for browsing, followed by Mulberry Negative, a smoky concoction of Lapsang and Elizabeth. For medicinal herbs, exotic tea–infused gin, Antica Formula, Campari Eastern fruits, woks and Chinese teapots, and Peychauds Bitters. scour the frenetic streets of Chinatown. FANELLI’S CAFE BAR Map p412 (%212-226-9412; 94 Prince St, at Mer- WILL LEATHER GOODS ACCESSORIES cer St; h10am-12:30am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, to midnight Sun; bN/R to Prince St) Snug, Map p412 (%212-925-2824; www.willleather goods.com; 29 Prince St, at Mott St; h10am-8pm convivial Fanelli’s is the consummate soak, Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; bN/R to Prince St; 6

100 22Local Life to Spring St) Beautifully crafted, classically An Artisanal styled leather goods fill this family-owned Afternoon in SoHo Oregon import. While you’ll find every- thing from wallets and belts to pet leash- Shopaholics across the world lust for es, it’s the bags that take the breath away. SoHo and its sharp, trendy whirlwind Made using American and Italian leathers, of flagship stores, coveted labels and products include erudite satchels, brief- strutting fashionistas. Look beyond cases, messenger bags, jet-setter duffles, the giant global brands, however, and clutches and cross-body bags. The store you’ll discover a whole other retail also sells vintage pieces: US Postal Service scene, one where talented artisans mail bag, anyone? and independent, one-off enterprises keep things local, unique and utterly So H o & C h i n atow n E nterta i nment 3X1 FASHION inspiring. Welcome to SoHo at its homegrown best. Map p412 (%212-391-6969; www.3x1.us; 15 Mer- cer St, btwn Howard & Grand Sts; h11am-7pm A Shop with Single Origin Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; bN/Q/R, J/Z, 6 to Ca- nal St) Design your most flattering pair of Charge up with a cup of single-origin cof- jeans at this bespoke denim factory/show- room, which offers three levels of service. fee from 1Café Integral (p98), a tiny Quick, on-the-spot ‘ready-to-wear service’ lets you choose the hem for ready-to-wear espresso bar where you’ll probably find denim (women’s from $195, men’s from coffee-obssessed owner César Martin $245); ‘custom service’ sees you choosing Vega behind the machine. It’s in shop- the fabric and detailing for an existing fit cum-gallery American Two Shot. ($525 to $750); while the ‘full bespoke ser- vice’ ($1200) designs your perfect pair from Perfect Jeans scratch. Ready-to-go accessories include totes, shirts and skirts. 23x1 lets you design your perfect pair MIN NEW YORK BEAUTY of jeans. Choose hems for ready-to-wear pairs, customize fabric and detailing on Map p412 (%212-206-6366; www.min.com; 117 existing cuts, or create your most flatter- Crosby St, btwn Jersey & Prince Sts; h11am-7pm ing pair from scratch. Tue-Sat, noon-6pm Mon & Sun; bB/D/F/M to Broadway-Lafayette St; N/R to Prince St) This chic, Curbside Culture library-like apothecary curates an extraordi- nary, rotating collection of rare and exclusive The 3sidewalk engraving on the north- perfumes, grooming products and scented candles. Esteemed and historic European west corner of Prince St and Broadway is lines aside, look out for artisanal Ameri- the work of Japanese-born sculptor Ken can fragrances from the likes of Strange- Hiratsuka, who has carved almost 40 love NYC and the Vagabond Prince, as well sidewalks since moving to NYC in 1982. as MiN’s own line of coveted hair products. While this engraving took five or so actual Prices span affordable to astronomical, and hours of work, its completion took two there’s no vulgar pressure to buy. years (1983–84), as Hiratsuka’s illegal nighttime chiseling was often disrupted SATURDAYS FASHION, ACCESSORIES by police. Map p412 (www.saturdaysnyc.com; 31 Crosby St, A Gourmet Nibble btwn Broome & Grand Sts; hstore 10am-7pm, cof- fee bar 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun; W; NYC loves its luxe grocers and 4Dean bN/Q/R, J/Z, 6 to Canal St) SoHo’s version of a surf shop sees boards and wax paired up & DeLuca is one of the biggest names with designer grooming products, graphic around town. If you’re feeling peckish, art and surf tomes, and Saturdays’ own line ready-to-eat delectables include freshly baked cheese sticks, gourmet quesadil- las and sugar-dusted almond croissants. of high-quality, fashion-literate threads for dudes. Styled-up, grab a coffee from the in- house espresso bar, hang in the back gar- den and fish for some crazy, shark-dodging

101 LAPERRUQUE / ALAMY © #¦ Prince St #æ3 ##þ5 Sweets on display at Dean & DeLuca #þ#6 ¦# Mulberry St Fragrance Flights Lafayette St Prince St #ú4 Drop into library-like apoth- Greene St ecary 5MiN New York and Mercer St Broadway request a free ‘fragrance flight,’ Crosby St a guided exploration of the store’s extraordinary collection Spring St #¦Spring St of rare, exclusive perfumes and grooming products. Look out for SOHO homegrown fragrances from the Broome St likes of Strangelove NYC and The Greene St Vagabond Prince. Grand St Mercer St #ú1 Grand St Broadway Books & Conversation Crosby St Lafayette St If MiN ignites a passion for fra- Centre St grance, scan the shelves at 6McNally Jackson (p102) for a title on the subject. This is one of the city’s best-loved in- dependent bookstores, stocked with cognoscenti magazines and books, and an in-house cafe for quality downtime and conversa- tion. In short, a pleasing down- town epilogue. #þ2 Howard St Canal St e¦#Canal St 0 100 m 0 0.05 miles # ¦# ¦#

102 the home, office and wardrobe. You’ll find tales. There’s a second branch in the West modernist alarm clocks, sculptural vases Village (p159). and jewelry, surreal lamps, svelte kitch- enware, plus brainy games, hand puppets, UNITED NUDE SHOES fanciful scarves, coffee-table tomes and loads of other unique gift ideas. Map p412 (%212-420-6000; www.unitednude. com; 25 Bond St, btwn Lafayette St & Bowery; hnoon-7pm Mon, 11am-7pm Tue-Thu, 11am- 8pm Fri & Sat, noon-6pm Sun; b6 to Bleecker OPENING CEREMONY FASHION, SHOES St; B/D/F/M to Broadway-Lafayette St) United Map p412 (%212-219-2688; www.openingcere Nude’s flagship store is stocked with im- mony.us; 35 Howard St, btwn Broadway & Lafay- probably beautiful, statement-making foot- ette St; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-7pm Sun; wear – flamboyant, classic, business-savvy bN/Q/R, J/Z, 6 to Canal St) Unisex Opening and sporty. Whether you want strappy Ceremony is famed for its never-boring edit So H o & C h i n atow n E nterta i nment sandals, towering stilettos or a solid pair of of A-list indie labels. The place showcases a wedge-heeled pumps, you’ll score here. The changing roster of names from across the line of men’s shoes is smaller, but no less globe, both established and emerging. Com- eye-catching. plimenting them is Opening Ceremony’s own avant-garde creations. No matter who EVOLUTION GIFTS is hanging on the racks, you can always Map p412 (%212-343-1114; www.theevolution expect show-stopping, ‘where-did-you-get- store.com; 120 Spring St, btwn Mercer & Greene Sts; h11am-8pm; bN/R to Prince St; 6 to Spring that?!’ threads that are street-smart, bold and refreshingly unexpected. St) Evolution keeps things quirky with natural-history collectibles usually seen RAG & BONE FASHION in museum cabinets. This is the place to Map p412 (%212-219-2204; www.rag-bone.com; buy – or simply gawk at – framed beetles 119 Mercer St, btwn Prince & Spring Sts; h11am- and butterflies, bugs frozen in amber-resin 8pm Mon-Sat, noon-7pm Sat; bN/R to Prince cubes, stuffed parrots, zebra hides and St) Downtown label Rag & Bone is a hit shark teeth, as well as stony wonders, from with many of New York’s coolest, sharpest meteorites and fragments from Mars to dressers – both men and women. Detail- 100-million-year-old fossils. orientated pieces range from clean-cut shirts and blazers, to graphic T-shirts, mon- ODIN FASHION ochromatic sweaters, feather-light strappy Map p412 (%212-966-0026; www.odinnewyork. dresses, leathergoods and Rag & Bone’s com; 199 Lafayette St, btwn Kenmare & Broome Sts; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-7pm Sun; b6 highly prized jeans. The tailoring is gener- ally impeccable, with accessories including to Spring St; N/R to Prince St) Odin’s flagship shoes, hats, bags and wallets. See the web- men’s boutique carries hip downtown la- bels such as Thom Browne, Rag & Bone, site for all its New York locations. Duckie Brown and Public School NYC. Rub- DE VERA ANTIQUES bing shoulders with them is a select edit of Map p412 (%212-625-0838; www.deveraobjects. imports, among them Nordic labels Acne com; 1 Crosby St, at Howard St; h11am-7pm Tue- and Won Hundred. Other in-store tempters Sat; bN/Q/R, J/Z, 6 to Canal St) Federico de include Odin candles, fragrances, jewelry Vera travels the globe in search of rare and from Brooklyn creatives such as Naval Yard exquisite jewelry, carvings, lacquerware and Uhuru, Oliver Peoples sunglasses, and and other objets d’art for this jewel-box of a street-smart footwear from cult labels such store. Illuminated glass cases display works as Common Projects. such as 200-year-old Buddhas, Venetian You’ll find other branches in the East Vil- glassware and gilded inlaid boxes from the lage (p128) and the West Village (p157). Meiji period, while oil paintings and carv- ings along the walls complete the museum- MOMA DESIGN STORE GIFTS like experience. Map p412 (%646-613-1367; www.momastore. org; 81 Spring St, at Crosby St; h10am-8pm MCNALLY JACKSON BOOKS Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; bN/R to Prince St; 6 Map p412 (%212-274-1160; www.mcnallyjackson. to Spring St) The Museum of Modern Art’s com; 52 Prince St, btwn Lafayette & Mulberry downtown retail space carries a huge col- Sts; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; bN/R lection of sleek, smart and clever objects for to Prince St; 6 to Spring St) Bustling indie MJ

stocks an excellent selection of magazines 103 and books covering contemporary fiction, Jones Sts; hnoon-8pm Mon-Sat, 1-7pm Sun; b6 food writing, architecture and design, art to Bleecker St; B/D/F/M to Broadway-Lafayette and history. The in-store cafe is a fine spot St) If you dig vintage threads, you may just to settle in with some reading material or scream too. This funtastic shop carries an to catch one of the frequent readings and excellent selection of yesteryear pieces – book signings held here. organized, ingeniously, by decade, from the ’50s to the ’90s (ask to see the small, FILLMORE & 5TH VINTAGE stashed-away collection of clothing from the ’20s, ’30s and ’40s). Map p412 (%646-791-5458; fillmore5th.com; 398 Broome St, at Centre St; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, From prim, beaded wool cardigans to noon-6pm Sun; b6 to Spring St; N/R to Prince suede minidresses and white leather go- St) Fashion is a fickle affair, as the racks at go boots, the stock is in great condition. A this Californian consignment store reveal. selection of accessories and jewelry com- So H o & C h i n atow n E nterta i nment Near-new designer pieces are delivered dai- pletes any back-to-the-future look. ly and sold at mere-mortal prices, whether UNIQLO FASHION it’s a Maison Kitsuné men’s sweat top for Map p412 (%877-486-4756; www.uniqlo.com; $90, a Burberry blazer for $150, or a killer 546 Broadway, btwn Prince & Spring Sts; h10am- pair of Manolo Blahnik stilettos for $200. 9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; bN/R to Prince St; Always check the dedicated sale rack for the 6 to Spring St) This enormous three-story Jap- biggest savings. anese emporium owes its popularity to good looking, good quality apparel at discount INA MEN VINTAGE prices. You’ll find Japanese denim, Mon- Map p412 (www.inanyc.com; 19 Prince St, at Eliza- golian cashmere, graphic T-shirts, svelte beth St; hnoon-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; b6 to Spring St; N/R to Prince St) Male style-meisters skirts, high-tech thermals and endless racks of colorful ready-to-wear items – with most love INA for pre-loved, luxury clothes, shoes things falling below the $100 mark. and accessories. Edits are high quality across the board, with sought-after items including the likes of Rag & Bone jeans, OTHER MUSIC MUSIC Alexander McQueen wool pants, Burberry Map p412 (%212-477-8150; www.othermusic.com; 15 E 4th St, btwn Lafayette St & Broadway; h11am- shirts and Church’s brogues. Next door 8pm Mon-Wed, 11am-9pm Thu & Fri, noon-8pm is the women’s store. You’ll find unisex branches in NoHo (Map p412; %212-228-8511; Sat, noon-7pm Sun; b6 to Bleecker St; B/D/F/M to Broadway-Lafayette St) This indie-run CD 15 Bleecker St, at Elizabeth St; hnoon-8pm Mon- store feeds its loyal fan base with a clued-in Sat, to 7pm Sun; b6 to Bleecker St; B/D/F/M to Broadway-Lafayette St) and Chelsea (p160), selection of, well, other types of music: off- beat lounge, psychedelic, electronica, indie as well as another women’s-only store in rock etc, available new and used. Friendly SoHo (Map p412; %212-941-4757; 101 Thomp- son Street, btwn Prince & Spring Sts; hnoon-8pm staffers like what they do, and may be able to help translate your inner musical whims Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; bC/E to Spring St). and dreams to actual CD reality. OM also RESURRECTION VINTAGE stocks a small but excellent selection of new and used vinyl. Map p412 (%212-625-1374; www.resurrection vintage.com; 217 Mott St, btwn Prince & Spring Sts; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri; b6 to Spring St; N/R HOUSING WORKS BOOK STORE BOOKS to Prince St) Boudoir-red Resurrection gives Map p412 (%212-334-3324; www.housingworks. new life to cutting-edge designs from past org/usedbookcafe; 126 Crosby St, btwn E Houston decades. Striking, mint-condition pieces & Prince Sts; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat cover the eras of mod, glam-rock and new- & Sun; bB/D/F/M to Broadway-Lafayette St; N/R wave design, and design deities such as to Prince St) Relaxed, earthy and featuring a Marc Jacobs have dropped by for inspira- great selection of secondhand books, vinyl, tion. Top picks include Halston dresses and CDs and DVDs you can buy for a good cause Courrèges coats and jackets. (proceeds go to the city’s HIV-positive and AIDS homeless communities), this creaky SCREAMING MIMI’S VINTAGE hideaway is a very local place to while away a few quiet afternoon hours (there’s an in- Map p412 (%212-677-6464; www.screaming house cafe). mimis.com; 382 Lafayette St, btwn E 4th & Great

104 to Broadway-Lafayette St) Don’t skimp on Check the website for regular events, the services at this downtown feng shui master, whose offerings include Moroccan which include highly entertaining Moth rose sea salt scrubs and stem-cell facials. If StorySLAM competitions. you spend over $100 per person (not hard: hour-long massages start at $145, hour-long ADIDAS ORIGINALS SHOES, FASHION facials start at $135), you get three-hour ac- cess to the water lounge and its thermal hot Map p412 (%212-673-0398; www.adidas.com; 136 tub, river rock sauna, chakra-light steam Wooster St, btwn Prince & W Houston Sts; h10am- room and cold plunge pool. Swimwear is 9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; bN/R to Prince St) essential. Iconic triple-striped sneakers, many refer- encing Adidas’ halcyon days from the ’60s to the ’80s, is what you get here. Kicks aside, pimp your look with hoodies, track wear, T- shirts and accessories including eye wear, So H o & C h i n atow n S p o rts & Act i v i t i es watches and retro-funky bags. DOWNTOWN BOATHOUSE KAYAKING For the big-box retail experience, head Map p410 (www.downtownboathouse.org; Pier 26, near N Moore St; h9am-4:30pm Sat & Sun to the 29,500-sq-ft Adidas (Map p412; %212- mid-May–mid-Oct, 5-6:30pm Mon-Fri Jul & 529-0081; www.adidas.com; 610 Broadway, at Houston St; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu, 10am-8pm Fri Aug; b1 to Houston St) New York’s most ac- tive public boathouse offers free walk-up & Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; bB/D/F/M to Broadway- 20-minute kayaking sessions (including Lafayette St; N/R to Prince St) sneaker empo- rium a few blocks back. equipment) in a protected embayment in the Hudson River on weekends and some weekday evenings. For more activities – kayaking trips, stand-up paddle boarding 2 SPORTS & and classes, check out www.hudsonriver ACTIVITIES park.org for the four other kayaking loca- tions on the Hudson River. There’s also a GREAT JONES SPA SPA summer-only kayaking location on Gover- Map p412 (%212-505-3185; www.greatjonesspa. nors Island (p75). com; 29 Great Jones St, btwn Lafayette St & Bow- ery; h9am-10pm; b6 to Bleecker St; B/D/F/M

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 105 East Village & Lower East Side EAST VILLAGE | LOWER EAST SIDE Neighborhood Top Five 1 Admiring the off-white of early immigrants at the 4 Pub-crawling through webbing of the boxy facade brilliantly curated Lower of the New Museum of Alphabet City, stopping Contemporary Art (p108), East Side Tenement Mu- en route at Rue B (p119) for then wandering in to appre- seum (p107). jazz and Wayland (p122) for ciate mind-bending itera- moonshine cocktails. tions of art across myriad 3 Passing knickknack media. 5 Snacking on a tantaliz- shops and sake bars on St Marks Place (p110), then ing array of global dishes heading to the neighboring such as upscale Indian 2 Witnessing the shock- streets for a quieter round of street food at Babu Ji (p115). ingly cramped conditions nibbling and boutique-ing. Fourth Ave Third Ave E 14th St Broadway E 13th St E 12th St E 12th St 4#5# E 11th St 3 4E 10th St E 9th StToSmqupakriens E 9th St E 10th St St Marks Pl # Park # East River E 8th St Franklin D Roosevelt Dr Lafayette St Columbia St 00000000W0000000a0S000s0q00h0000Pi0n0agrkton Cooper Second Ave EAST Ave B E 7th St East Square E 6th StVILLAGE Pitt St E 5th St River First Ave Attorney St Park E 4th St Ave A Suffolk St Ave C Ave D Great Jones St ALPHABET Essex St CITY E 3rd St E 21nd1St Hamilton Bleecker St NOHO 1 1 PFaisrhk 1 E Houston St 1 W Houston St Stanton St Prince St 1# Chrystie St Rivington St Delancey St Williamsburg Bridge Bowery LOWER Broome St Spring St NOLITA SOHO Sara D EAST Broome St Roosevelt Grand St # SIDE Canal St Park Broadway 2Kenmare St White St Lafayette St Forsyth St Clinton StWStHPSaerwk GarrdaEnBdroSatdwayMFardainskolninSDt#Ro00oseCvoerlHtlPeDoaarorrkks Centre St Rutgers St For more detail of this area see Map p416 Orchard St Hester St e ALCIoTClPuTHamLrIkNEbuA0I0sT0T000A00O00000L000W0C000Y00000o0000N0P000n00000l00f0a000u0000z000c000a0C000i000u000a000s00n00000a00l0SDitvision and 500 m 0.25 miles p418

106 Explore the East Village & Lower East Side Lonely Planet’s Top Tip If you’ve been dreaming of those quintessential New York City moments – graffiti on crimson brick, skyscrap- A lot of the restaurants in ers rising overhead, punks and grannies walking side by this neck of the woods don’t side, and cute cafes with rickety tables spilling out onto take reservations, so stop the sidewalks – then the East Village is your Holy Grail. by the restaurant of your Stick to the area around Tompkins Square Park, and the choosing in the early after- lettered avenues (known as Alphabet City) to its east, noon (2pm should do the for interesting little nooks in which to eat and drink – trick) and place your name as well as a collection of great little community gardens on the roster for the even- that provide leafy respite and the occasional live perfor- ing meal – chances are high mance. The streets below 14th St and east of First Ave that they’ll take your name are packed with cool boutiques and excellent snack-food and you’ll get seated right spots, offering styles and flavors from around the world. away when you return for It’s a mixed bag, indeed, and perhaps one of the most dinner later on. emblematic of today’s city. East Village & Lower East Side  5 Best Places Local Life to Eat ¨One block over Famed St Marks Place draws swarms ¨¨Upstate (p115) of people shopping and carousing – though it’s a bit of a circus most days. Hop a block over in either direction ¨¨Degustation (p116) for some great retail and restaurant finds with half the crowds. ¨¨El Rey (p116) ¨Taste the rainbow The East Village and the Lower East Side are like no other place in the city when it ¨¨Fung Tu (p119) comes to sampling the finest spread of ethnic cuisine. Many of the area’s restaurants don’t take reservations, ¨¨Momofuku Noodle Bar so have a wander and grab an open table to eat- (p114) pray-love your way through Italy, India, Indonesia or anywhere in between. For reviews, see p113A Getting There & Away 6 Best Places to Drink ¨Subway Trains don’t go far enough east to carry you to most East Village locations, but it’s a quick walk (and ¨¨Rue B (p119) even quicker cab or bus ride) from the 6 at Astor Pl, ¨¨Jimmy’s No 43 (p122) the F, V at Lower East Side-Second Ave or the L at First ¨¨Angel’s Share (p122) or Third Aves. The subway’s F line (Lower East Side- ¨¨Berlin (p119) Second Ave or Delancey St stops) will let you off in the ¨¨Ten Bells (p124) thick of the Lower East Side. ¨Bus If you’re traveling from the west side, it’s For reviews, see p119A convenient to take the M14 (across 14th St) or the M21 (down Houston). 7 Best Places to Shop ¨¨Obscura Antiques (p127) ¨¨A-1 Records (p127) ¨¨By Robert James (p129) ¨¨Verameat (p127) ¨¨Still House (p127) For reviews, see p127A

107 LOWER EAST SIDE TENEMENT MUSEUM There’s no museum in New York that humanizes the DON’T MISS city’s colorful past quite like the Lower East Side ¨¨Themed walks Tenement Museum, which puts the neighborhood’s around the neigh- heartbreaking but inspiring heritage on full display borhood in several re-creations of former tenements. Always evolving and expanding, the museum has a variety of ¨¨A peek into the tours and talks beyond the museum’s walls – a must 1870s and the 1930s for anyone interested in old New York. on the Hard Times tour ¨¨The free 30-minute Inside the Tenement film shown in the visi- tor center A wide range of tenement tours lead visitors into the build- ing where hundreds of immigrants lived and worked over ¨¨The outhouses the years. Hard Times, one of the most popular tours, visits apartments from two different time periods – the 1870s and the 1930s. There you’ll see the squalid conditions ten- PRACTICALITIES ants faced – in the early days there was a wretched com- ¨¨Map p418 munal outhouse, and no electricity or running water – and ¨¨%877-975-3786 what life was like for the families who lived there. Other ¨¨www.tenement.org tours focus on Irish immigrants and the harsh discrimina- ¨¨103 Orchard St, btwn tion they faced, sweatshop workers and ‘shop life’ (with a Broome & Delancey Sts tour through a re-created 1870s German beer hall). ¨¨adult/student from $25/20 Neighborhood Tours A great way to understand the immigrant experience is ¨¨htours 10:15am-5pm on a walking tour around the neighborhood. These tours, Fri-Wed, to 6:30pm Thu ranging from 75 minutes to two hours, explore a variety of topics. Foods of the Lower East Side looks at the ways tra- ¨¨bB/D to Grand St; J/M/Z to Essex St; F to ditional foods have shaped American cuisine; Then & Now Delancey St explores the way the neighborhood has changed over the decades; Outside the Home looks at life beyond the apart- ment – where immigrants stored (and lost) their life savings, the churches and synagogues so integral to community life, and the meeting halls where poorly paid workers gathered to fight for better conditions. Meet Victoria Travel back to 1916 and meet Victoria Confino, a 14-year-old girl from a Greek Sephardic family. Played by a costumed interpreter, Victoria interacts with visitors answering ques- tions about what her life was like in those days. It’s especially recommended for kids, as visitors are free to handle household objects. This one-hour tour is held on weekends year- round, and daily during the summer. 103 Orchard St The visitor center at 103 Orchard St has a museum shop and a small screening room that plays an original film. Several evenings a month, the museum hosts talks here, often relat- ing to the present immigrant experience in America. The building itself was, naturally, a tenement too – ask the staff about the interesting families of East European and Italian descent that once dwelled here.

NEW MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART For any modern-day museum worth its salt, the DON’T MISS MAREMAGNUM / GETTY IMAGES © structure makes just as much of a statement as the ¨¨The facade from artwork inside. The New Museum of Contemporary across the street Art’s Lower East Side avatar accomplishes just that and more with its inspired design by noted Japanese ¨¨Pay-what-you-wish architecture firm SANAA. The Lower East Side has Thursday evening seen its fair share of physical changes over the last ¨¨New Museum Cafe two decades as the sweeping hand of gentrification ¨¨New Museum Store has cleaned up slummy nooks and replaced them with glittering residential blocks. The New Museum PRACTICALITIES manages to punctuate the neighborhood with something unique, and its cache of artistic work will ¨¨Map p418 dazzle and confuse just as much as its facade. ¨¨%212-219-1222 A Museum With a Mission ¨¨www.newmuseum.org Founded in 1977 by Marcia Tucker and housed in five ¨¨235 Bowery, btwn different locations over the years, the museum’s mission Stanton & Rivington Sts statement is simple: ‘New art, new ideas.’ The institution ¨¨adult/child $16/free, gave gallery space to artists Keith Haring, Jeff Koons, Joan 7-9pm Thu by donation Jonas, Mary Kelly and Andres Serrano at the beginning of ¨¨h11am-6pm Wed & their careers, and continues to show contemporary heavy Fri-Sun, to 9pm Thu hitters. The city’s sole museum dedicated to contemporary art has brought a steady menu of edgy works in new forms, ¨¨bN/R to Prince St; such as seemingly random, discarded materials fused to- F to Second Ave; J/Z to gether and displayed in the middle of a vast room. Bowery; 6 to Spring St The museum also houses the New Museum Cafe, a great spot for sampling the gourmet goodies of NYC purveyors, including baked goods by Cafe Grumpy, teas by McNulty, coffee by Intelligentsia and sandwiches by Duck’s Eatery.

109 In Orbit DISCOUNTED E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e N ew M u se u m of c ontemporar y A rt ADMISSION It’s now been several years since the New Museum has taken hold, inspiring nearby structures to adopt To save cash, stop by similarly ethereal designs. Perhaps most interest- on Thursday evening ingly the museum has become somewhat of a mag- between 7pm and 9pm, netic force attracting a clutch of small workshops when admission is pay and creative spaces (p113) to its orbit. what you wish. Depend- ing on the show, the SANAA’s Vision crowds can be sizable. We recommend lining While exhibits rotate through the museum, regu- up by 6:45pm. larly changing the character of the space within, the shell – an inspired architectural gesture – remains MUSEUM SHOP a constant, acting as a unique structural element in the diverse cityscape, while also simultaneously fad- If you aren’t so keen on ing into the background and allowing the exhibits the current exhibits, to shine. it’s still worth stopping by the museum’s store The building’s structure is the brainchild of the to peruse some of the hot Japanese firm SANAA – a partnership between excellent coffee-table two great minds, Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishi- books – sometimes the zawa. In 2010 SANAA won the coveted Pritzker take-homes include Prize (think the Oscars of architecture) for their con- savvy collaborations tributions to the world of design. Their trademark with showcased artists. vanishing facades are known worldwide for abid- The shop has the same ing by a strict adherence to a form-follows-function hours of operation as design aesthetic, sometimes taking the land plot’s the museum. footprint into the overall shape of the structure. The box-atop-box scheme provides a striking counter- FIRST SATURDAYS point to the clusters of crimson brick and iron fire escapes outside, while alluding to the geometric ex- On the first Saturday hibition chasms within. of the month, the New Museum hosts special events for budding artists, with hands-on crafts and activities for kids aged four to 15. Free museum admis- sion is included for adults (it’s always free for kids).

ST MARKS PLACE One of the most magical things about New York is that DON’T MISS MICHAEL MARQUAND / GETTY IMAGES © every street tells a story, from the action unfurling ¨¨The Physical Graffiti before your eyes to the dense history hidden behind buildings made famous colorful facades. St Marks Place is one of the best by Led Zeppelin (num- strips of pavement in the city for story telling, as bers 96 and 98) almost every building on these hallowed blocks is rife with tales from a time when the East Village embodied ¨¨Brunch at one of the a far more lawless spirit. Technically St Marks Place tasty cafes is 8th St between Third Ave and Ave A; it earned its saintly moniker from the like-named church nearby on ¨¨Tompkins Square 10th St. Park at the end of the street Astor Place ¨¨Sake bombs at one of the basement Japa- To the west of St Marks Place is Astor Place (8th St, btwn nese bars Third & Fourth Aves; bN/R to 8th St-NYU; 6 to Astor Pl), a crowded ¨¨Shopping for knick- crisscrossing of streets anchored by a curious square sculp- knacks and odd ture that’s affectionately (and appropriately) known by lo- souvenirs cals as The Cube. A favorite meeting spot for neighborhood dwellers, this work of art – actually named Alamo – weighs over 1800 pounds and is made entirely of Cor-Tensteel. PRACTICALITIES Originally Astor Place was the home of the Astor Opera ¨¨Map p416 House (now gone), which attracted the city’s wealthy elite ¨¨St Marks Pl, Ave A to for regular performances in the mid-1800s. The square was Third Ave also the site of the notorious Astor Place riots, in which the city’s protesting Irish population caused such a stir about ¨¨bN/R/W to 8th St- their homeland potato famine that the police fired shots into NYU; 6 to Astor Pl the masses, injuring hundreds and killing at least 18 people. Today the square is largely known as the home of the Village Voice and the Cooper Union (Foundation Building, Great Hall; www.cooper.edu; 7 E 7th St, btwn Third & Fourth Aves; b6 to Astor Pl, N/R to 8th St-NYU) design institute.

111 Third Ave to Ave A TOP BRUNCH E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e S t M ar k s P l a c e SPOTS Easily one of NYC’s most famous streets, St Marks Place is also one of the city’s smallest, occupying only In addition to all of its three blocks between Astor Pl and Tompkins Square quirky and historical Park. The road, however, is jam-packed with histori- landmarks, St Marks cal tidbits that would delight any trivia buff. Number has some wonderful 2 St Marks Place is known as the St Mark’s Ale House, places to stop for a bite. but for a time it was the famous Five-Spot, where jazz Weekend brunches in fiend Thelonious Monk got his start in the 1950s. A the East Village are a cast of colorful characters have left their mark at 4 great bet, as the local St Marks Place: Alexander Hamilton’s son built the restaurants are typical- structure, James Fenimore Cooper lived here in the ly less expensive (and 1830s and Yoko Ono’s Fluxus artists descended upon less scene-y) than the the building in the 1960s. The buildings at 96 and hotspots in neighboring 98 St Marks Place are immortalized on the cover of ‘hoods. Try Cafe Moga- Led Zepellin’s Physical Graffiti album. Though it dor (p115), which fuses closed in the 1990s, number 122 St Marks Place was American favorites with the location of a popular cafe called Sin-é, where Jeff an assortment of Mid- Buckley and David Gray often performed. dle Eastern plates. Tompkins Square Park PUNK ROCK SHOPS St Marks Place terminates at a welcome clearing of green deep in the heart of the East Village. The The East Village was 10.5-acre Tompkins Square Park (www.nycgovparks. once the home base org; E 7th & 10th Sts, btwn Aves A & B; h6am-midnight; for emerging punk rock b6 to Astor Pl) honors Daniel Tompkins, who served acts – many would fre- as governor of New York from 1807 to 1817 (and as quent the clothing shops the nation’s vice president after that, under James along St Marks to as- Monroe). It’s like a friendly town square for locals, semble their trademark who gather for chess at concrete tables, picnics on looks. Although most the lawn on warm days and spontaneous guitar or joints have gone the way drum jams on various grassy knolls. It’s also the of the dodo in favor of site of basketball courts, a fun-to-watch dog run more tourist-friendly (a fenced-in area where humans can unleash their wares, there are still a canines), frequent summer concerts and an always- few spots that remain. lively kids’ playground. The park, which recently underwent a facelift, wasn’t always a place for such clean fun, however. In the ’80s it was a dirty, needle- strewn homeless encampment, unusable for folks wanting a place to stroll or picnic. A contentious turning point came when police razed the band shell and evicted more than 100 squatters living in a tent city in the park in 1988 (and again in 1991). That first eviction turned violent; the Tompkins Square Riot, as it came to be known, ushered in the first wave of yuppies in the dog run, fashionistas lolling in the grass and undercover narcotics agents try- ing to pass as druggie punk kids. There’s not much drama here these days, unless you count the annual Howl! Festival of East Village Arts, which brings Allen Ginsberg–inspired theater, music, film, dance and spoken-word events to the park each September.

112 STREET Tue-Sun; bF to Delancey St; J/M/Z to Essex St) PARK This small gallery specializes in docu- 1 SIGHTS mentary photography and photojournal- ism. Expect evocative, thought-provoking 1 East Village works covering subjects such as poverty in rural America, the ravages of war and oST MARKS PLACE disappearing cultures in Africa. Works are beautifully shot, and the staff member on See p110. hand can give a meaningful context to the images. TOMPKINS SQUARE PARK See p111 ST MARK’S IN THE BOWERY CHURCH MUSEUM AT ELDRIDGE STREET Map p416 (%212-674-6377; www.stmarksbowery. SYNAGOGUE MUSEUM org; 131 E 10th St, at Second Ave; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri; bL to Third Ave; 6 to Astor Pl) Though Map p418 (%212-219-0302; www.eldridgestreet. org; 12 Eldridge St, btwn Canal & Division Sts; adult/ it’s most popular with East Village locals child $12/8, Mon free; h10am-5pm Sun-Thu, for its cultural offerings – such as poetry readings hosted by the Poetry Project or 10am-3pm Fri; bF to East Broadway) This land- E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e S i ghts mark house of worship, built in 1887, was cutting-edge dance performances from once the center of Jewish life, before falling Danspace and the Ontological Hysteric Theater – St Mark’s is also a historic site. into squalor in the 1920s. Left to rot, the synagogue was restored following a 20-year- This Episcopal church stands on the site long, $20-million restoration that was com- of the farm, or bouwerij, owned by Dutch Governor Peter Stuyvesant, whose crypt pleted in 2007, and it now shines with origi- nal splendor. Museum admission includes a lies under the grounds. tour of the synagogue, which departs hourly, EAST RIVER PARK PARK with the last one starting at 4pm. Map p416 (www.nycgovparks.org/parks/east- river-park; FDR Dr & E Houston St; hsunrise to KEHILA KEDOSHA JANINA 1am; bF to Delancey-Essex Sts) In addition SYNAGOGUE & MUSEUM SYNAGOGUE to the great ballparks, running and biking Map p418 (%212-431-1619; www.kkjsm.org; 280 Broome St, at Allen St; h11am-4pm Sun, paths, 5000-seat amphitheater that hosts service 9am Sat; bF, J/M/Z to Delancey-Essex concerts and expansive patches of green, this park has cool, natural breezes and fine Sts) This small synagogue is home to an obscure branch of Judaism, the Romani- views of the Williamsburg, Manhattan and otes, whose ancestors were slaves sent to Brooklyn Bridges. Although flanked by a looming housing Rome by ship but rerouted to Greece by a storm. This is their only synagogue in project and the clogged FDR Dr on one side the Western Hemisphere, and includes a and the less-than-pure East River on the other, it’s a fine spot for a stroll or a morn- small museum bearing artifacts such as hand-painted birth certificates, an art ing run. gallery, a Holocaust memorial for Greek Jews and costumes from Janina, the Ro- maniote capital of Greece. 1 Lower East Side oLOWER EAST SIDE TENEMENT SARA D ROOSEVELT PARK PARK MUSEUM MUSEUM Map p418 (Houston St, at Chrystie St; bF to See p107. Delancey-Essex Sts) Spiffed up in recent years, this three-block-long park is a hive of activ- oNEW MUSEUM OF ity on weekends, with basketball courts, a small soccer pitch (with synthetic turf) CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM and a well-loved playground (just north of See p108. Hester St). Tai-chi practitioners, vegetable sellers (on the nearby cross streets) and ANASTASIA PHOTO GALLERY Map p418 (www.anastasia-photo.com; 143 Lud- strollers of all ages and ethnic backgrounds low St, btwn Stanton & Rivington Sts; h11am-7pm add to the ever-evolving scene.

113 LOWER EAST SIDE GALLERIES E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e E at i ng Though Chelsea may be the heavy hitter when it comes to the New York gallery scene, the Lower East Side has dozens of quality showplaces. One of the early pioneers, the Sperone Westwater (Map p418; www.speronewestwater.com; 257 Bowery; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat; bF to 2nd Ave) gallery (opened in 1975) represents heavy hitters such as William Wegman and Richard Long, and its new home was designed by the famed Norman Foster, who’s already made a splash in NYC with his Hearst Building and Avery Fisher Hall designs. Nearby the avant-garde Salon 94 has two Lower East Side outposts: one secreted away on Freeman Alley (Map p418; www.salon94.com; 1 Freeman Alley, off Rivington; h11am-6pm Wed-Sat; bF to 2nd Ave; J/Z to Bowery) and another on Bowery (Map p418; www.salon94.com; 243 Bowery, cnr Stanton St; h11am-6pm Tue-Sat, from 1pm Sun; bF to 2nd Ave; J/Z to Bowery) near the New Mu- seum of Contemporary Art. The latter has a 20ft LCD video wall that broadcasts video art out into the street. A few blocks north is the 4000-sq-ft Hole (theholenyc.com; 312 Bowery, at Bleecker; hnoon-7pm Wed-Sun; b6 to Bleeker St; B/D/F/M to Broadway-Lafayette St) – known as much for its art as it is for its rowdy openings that gather both scenesters of the down- town art circuit and well-known faces such as Courtney Love and Salman Rushdie. Broome St between Chrystie and Bowery is quickly becoming the nexus of the Lower East Side art scene, with galleries such as White Box, Canada and Jack Hanley right next door to one another. Another buzzing strip of galleries runs down Orchard St between Rivington and Canal St. Other popular, contemporary spaces include Lehmann Maupin (Map p418; %212-254-0054; www.lehmannmaupin.com; 201 Chrystie St; h11am-6pm Wed-Sun; bF to Delancey-Essex Sts), Mark Miller Gallery (Map p418; www.markmillergallery.com; 92 Orchard St, btwn Delancey & Broome; hnoon-6pm Wed-Sun; bF to Delancey St; J/M/Z to Essex St), Mesler Feuer (Map p418; meslerfeuer.com; 30 Orchard St, btwn Canal & Hester; h11am-6pm Wed-Sun; bF to East Broadway; B/D to Grand St) and Lesley Heller (Map p418; www.lesleyheller.com; 54 Orchard St, btwn Grand & Hester; h11am-6pm Wed-Sat, from noon Sun; bB/D to Grand St; F to East Broadway). 5 EATING out varenyky (handmade dumplings) and veal goulash amid the usual suspects of Here lies the epitome of what is beautiful greasy comfort food. The cluttered spread in New York’s dining scene: mind- of tables is available to loungers and carbo- blowing variety – which can cover the full loaders all night long, though it’s a favorite spectrum of continents and budgets – any time of day. in just a single city block. You’ll find every type of taste-bud tantalizer from TACOS MORELOS MEXICAN $ Ukrainian pierogi (dumpling) palaces and dozens of sushi joints to pizza Map p416 (%347-772-5216; 438 E 9th St, btwn parlors and falafel huts. There’s tons First Ave & Ave A; tacos from $3; hnoon-midnight of Indian fare too, especially on the Sun-Thu, to 1:30am Fri & Sat; bL to First Ave) carnival-esque strip of E 6th St between This famed food truck put down roots in First and Second Aves, otherwise known a no-frills East Village storefront in 2013, as Curry Row, where cheap, decent quickly becoming one of downtown’s fa- restaurants from the subcontinent are vorite taco joints. Order yours with chicken, a dime a dozen. steak, roast pork, beef tongue or vegetar- ian. Tip: pay the $0.50 extra for the home- made tortilla. 5 East Village MUD CAFE $ Map p416 (%212-228-9074; www.onmud.com; 307 E 9th St, btwn Second & First Aves; mains VESELKA EASTERN EUROPEAN $ Map p416 (%212-228-9682; www.veselka.com; $8-14; h8am-midnight; bL to Third Ave; L to 144 Second Ave, at 9th St; mains $10-19; h24hr; First Ave; 4/6 to Astor Pl) Offering trustworthy bL to Third Ave; 6 to Astor Pl) A bustling tribute beans and an all-day breakfast that hits the to the area’s Ukrainian past, Veselka dishes spot after a late night out, this 9th St nook

114 is a favorite among East Villagers looking up to a decadent carnivorous feast. There’s for a quick caffeine fix or a friendly place to also a location in the West Village. chat with old friends. The everyday brunch (coffee, craft beer or mimosa and any main RAI RAI KEN RAMEN $ course) is a deal at $18. Map p416 (%212-477-7030; 218 E 10th St, btwn Keep an eye out for the MUD trucks that First & Second Aves; ramen $10-13; hnoon-mid- roam the city streets; there’s also a handy night Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; bL to First Ave; 6 kiosk in the tiny plaza (that’s been rechris- to Astor Pl) Rai Rai Ken’s storefront may only tened ‘Mud Park’) on First Ave and 1st St. be the size of its door, but it’s pretty hard to miss since there’s usually a small con- gregation of hungry locals lurking out the PORCHETTA SANDWICHES $ front. Inside, low-slung wooden stools are Map p416 (%212-777-2151; www.porchettanyc. arranged around the noodle bar, where the com; 110 E 7th St; sandwiches $10-12; h11:30am- 10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; b6 to Astor Pl; cooks busily churn out piping-hot portions of tasty pork-infused broth. F to second Ave) This tiny white-tiled store- front serves tender, boneless roasted pork that’s been wrapped in a pork belly and sea- oMOMOFUKU NOODLE BAR NOODLES $$ soned with fennel pollen, rosemary, sage, E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e E at i ng thyme and garlic, available in sandwich or Map p416 (%212-777-7773; noodlebar-ny.mo- platter-with-sides versions. mofuku.com; 171 First Ave, btwn 10th & 11th Sts; mains $17-28; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & MIGHTY QUINN’S BARBECUE $ Sat; bL to First Ave; 6 to Astor Pl) With just 30 stools and a no-reservations policy, you will Map p416 (%212-677-3733; www.mightyquinnsbbq.com; always have to wait to cram into this tiny 103SecondAve,at6thSt; mains$8-10; h11:30am- phenomenon. Queue up for the namesake 11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; b6 to Astor special: homemade ramen noodles in broth, Pl; F to Second Ave) Grab yourself a tray and served with poached egg, pork belly and join hordes of barbecue lovers at this buzz- pork shoulder or some interesting combos. ing, very popular meat eatery. Tender bris- The menu changes daily and includes buns ket, smoky spare ribs, juicy piles of pulled (such as brisket and horseradish), snacks pork and ample portions of sides (coleslaw, (smoked chicken wings) and desserts. sweet potato casserole, baked beans) add The open kitchen creates quite a bit of smoke, but the crowd remains unfazed. COMMUNITY GARDENS After a stretch of arboreal abstinence in New York City, the community gardens of Al- phabet City are breathtaking. A network of gardens was carved out of abandoned lots to provide low-income neighborhoods with a communal backyard. Trees and flowers were planted, sandboxes were built, found-art sculptures erected and domino games played – all within green spaces wedged between buildings or even claiming entire blocks. And while some were destroyed – in the face of much protest – to make way for the projects of developers, plenty of green spots have held their ground. You can visit most on week- ends, when the gardens tend to be open to the public; many gardeners are activists within the community and are a good source of information about local politics. Le Petit Versailles (Map p416; alliedproductions.org; 346 E Houston St, at Ave C; h2- 7pm Thu-Sun; bF to Delancey St; J/M/Z to Essex St) is a unique marriage of a verdant oasis and an electrifying arts organization, offering a range of quirky performances and screenings to the public. The 6th & B Garden (Map p416; www.6bgarden.org; E 6th St & Ave B; h1-6pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct; b6 to Astor Pl; L to 1st Ave) is a well-organized space that hosts free music events, workshops and yoga sessions; check the website for details. Three dramatic weeping willows, an odd sight in the city, grace the twin plots of 9th St Garden & La Plaza Cultural (Map p416; www.laplazacultural.com; E 9th St, at Ave C; h10am-7pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct; bF to 2nd Ave; L to 1st Ave). Also check out the All People’s Garden (Map p416; www.allpeoplesgarden.org; 293 E 3rd St, btwn Aves C & D; h1-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct; bF to 2nd Ave) and Brisas del Caribe (Map p416; 237 E 3rd St; h1-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct; bF to 2nd Ave).

115 Momofuku is part of David Chang’s CAFE MOGADOR MOROCCAN $$ crazy popular restaurant empire (www.mo mofuku.com) that includes two-Michelin- Map p416 (%212-677-2226; www.cafemogador. starred Momofuku Ko, which serves up com; 101 St Marks Pl; mains lunch $8-14, dinner pricey ($175) tasting menus and has a pro- $17-21; h9am-midnight; b6 to Astor Pl) Family- hibitive, we-dare-you-to-try reservations run Mogador is a long-running NYC classic scheme; Momofuku Ssäm Bar, which fea- serving fluffy piles of couscous, char-grilled tures large and small meat-heavy dishes; lamb and merguez sausage over basmati and Momofuku Milk Bar with its decadent rice, as well as satisfying mixed platters desserts and snacks. of hummus and baba ganoush. The stand- outs, however, are the tagines – tradition- ally spiced, long-simmered chicken or lamb UPSTATE SEAFOOD $$ dishes served up five different ways. Map p416 (%212-460-5293; www.upstatenyc. A garrulous young crowd packs the com; 95 First Ave, btwn 5th & 6th Sts; mains $15- 30; h5-11pm; bF to Second Ave) Upstate serves space, spilling out onto the small cafe tables on warm days. Brunch (served weekends outstanding seafood dishes and craft beers. from 9am to 4pm) is excellent. The small, always-changing menu features the likes of beer-steamed mussels, seafood LUZZO’S PIZZA $$ E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e E at i ng stew, scallops over mushroom risotto, soft- Map p416 (%212-473-7447; www.luzzosgroup. shell crab and wondrous oyster selections. com; 211 First Ave, btwn 12th & 13th Sts; pizzas There’s no freezer – seafood comes from the $18-26; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & market each day, so you know you’ll be get- Sat; bL to First Ave) Fan-favorite Luzzo’s oc- ting only the freshest ingredients. Lines can cupies a thin sliver of real estate in the East be long, so go early. Village, which gets stuffed to the gills each evening as discerning diners feast on thin- BABU JI INDIAN $$ crust pies, kissed with ripe tomatoes and Map p416 (%212-951-182; www.babujinyc.com; cooked in a coal-fired stove. 175 Ave B, btwn 11th & 12 Sts; mains $16-25; h6pm-late Mon-Sat; bL to First Ave) A playful MOTORINO PIZZA $$ spirit marks this excellent Australian-run Map p416 (%212-777-2644; www.motorinopizza. Indian restaurant in Alphabet City. You com; 349 E 12th St, btwn First & Second Aves; indi- can assemble a meal from street-food–style vidual pizza $15-18; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to dishes such as papadi chaat (chickpeas, 1am Fri & Sat; v; bL to First Ave; 4/5/6 to 14th St- pomegranate and yogurt chutney) and po- Union Sq) On a restaurant-lined strip of the tato croquettes stuffed with lobster, or feast East Village, this intimate eatery serves up on heartier dishes such as tandoori lamb excellent pizzas with perfect pillowy crusts. chops or scallop coconut curry. It all happens beneath the benevolent REDHEAD SOUTHERN $$ gaze of babujis (respected elders), whose Map p416 (%212-533-6212; www.theredheadnyc. com; 349 E 13th St, btwn First & Second Aves; photos adorn the walls. mains $15-25; h5:30pm-1am Mon-Sat, 5-10pm LAVAGNA ITALIAN $$ Sun; bL to First Ave; L to Third Ave; 6 to Astor Pl) Map p416 (%212-979-1005; www.lavagnanyc. Cozy corners of exposed brick and warm com; 545 E 5th St, btwn Aves A & B; mains $19-35; smiles from the staff mirror the home-style h6-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, noon-midnight comfort food, which has a distinctly South- Sat & Sun; v c; bF to Second Ave) Dark wood, ern bent. There are stacks of fried chicken flickering candles and a fiery glow from a and rounds of pucker-inducing cocktails on somewhat open kitchen help make homey everyone else’s table – you should follow suit. Lavagna a late-night hideaway for lovers. But it’s laid-back enough to make it ap- ANGELICA KITCHEN VEGETARIAN $$ propriate for children, at least in the early Map p416 (%212-228-2909; www.angelicakitchen. com; 300 E 12th St, btwn First & Second Aves; hours before the smallish space fills up. De- mains $17-21; h11:30am-10:30pm; v; bL to First licious pastas, thin-crust pizzas and hearty mains, such as baby rack of lamb, are stand- Ave) This enduring herbivore classic has a calming vibe – candles, tables both intimate ard fare. Come early (6pm to 7pm nightly) and communal, and mellow, long-time staff for a $35 three-course prix-fixe special. – and enough creative options to make your head spin. Some dishes get too-cute names

116 (Goodnight Mushroom, Thai Mee Up), but Sun; v; bF to Second Ave) This white, mini- all do wonders with tofu, seitan, spices and malist space on Stanton feels more SoCal soy products, and sometimes an array of raw than LES, and has earned a huge follow- ingredients. There’s brunch on weekends. ing for its delectably inventive (and fairly priced) farm-to-table plates with plenty of IPPUDO NY NOODLES $$ vegan options. Stop by at lunchtime for a frittata with shaved fennel salad or roasted Map p416 (%212-388-0088; www.ippudo.com/ beets with granola and yogurt, or come at ny; 65 Fourth Ave, btwn 9th & 10th Sts; ramen evening for octopus salad with black-bean $15; h11am-3:30pm & 5pm-11:30pm Mon-Fri, puree. Microbrews, good coffees (pulled 11am-11:30pm Sat, 11am-10:30pm Sun; bN/R to from a Strada espresso machine) and wine 8th St-NYU; 4/5/6 to 14th St-Union Sq; 6 to Astor round out the menu. On the downside, this Pl) The good folks from Ippudo have kicked place is always crowded, and there isn’t things up a notch here – they’ve taken much space. their mouthwatering ramen recipe (truly, it’s delicious) and spiced it up with sleek surrounds (hello shiny black surfaces and MEATBALL SHOP ITALIAN $ streamers of cherry red) and blasts of rock Map p418 (%212-982-8895; www.themeatball and roll on the overhead speakers. shop.com; 84 Stanton St, btwn Allen & Orchard E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e E at i ng Sts; mains around $12; h11:30am-2am Sun-Thu, MODERN EUROPEAN $$$ to 4am Fri-Sat; bSecond Ave; F to Delancey St; DEGUSTATION J/M/Z to Essex St) Elevating the humble meat- ball to high art, the Meatball Shop serves up Map p416 (%212-979-1012; degustation-nyc.com; five varieties of juiciness (including a tasty 239 E 5th St btwn Second & Third Aves; small mushroom and lentil vegetarian option). plates $12-22, tasting menu $85; h6pm-11:30pm Order those balls on a hero, add mozzarella Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; b6 to Astor Pl) Blend- and spicy tomato sauce, and voila, you have ing Iberian, French and new world recipes, a tasty, if happily down-market, meal. The Degustation does a beautiful array of tapas- Lower East Side branch boasts a rock-and- style plates at this narrow 19-seat eatery. roll vibe, with tattooed waitstaff and promi- It’s an intimate setting, with guests seated nent beats. There are five other branches in around a long wooden counter, and chef NYC. Check the website for details. Nicholas Licata and team at center stage firing up crisp octopus, lamb belly with soft poached egg and paella with blue prawns and chorizo. SPAGHETTI INCIDENT ITALIAN $ For the full experience, opt for the seven- Map p418 (%646-896-1446; www.spaghettiinci course tasting menu. dentnyc.com; 231 Eldridge St, btwn Stanton & E Houston Sts; mains $9-12; h5:30-11:30pm Mon- AMERICAN $$$ Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; bF to Second Ave) Grab PRUNE a seat at the marble-topped bar or one of the side tables and watch the cooks whip up Map p416 (%212-677-6221; www.prunerestau- tasty dishes of spaghetti beautifully topped rant.com; 54 E 1st St, btwn First & Second Aves; with fresh ingredients such as kale pesto, mains brunch $14-22, dinner $25-32; h10am- chopped salmon and asparagus in a light 3:30pm Sat & Sun, 5:30-11pm daily; bF/V to Low- cream sauce, or Italian sausage and broc- er East Side-Second Ave) Expect lines around coli rabe. The flavors (and prices!) are quite the block on the weekend, when the hun- good. Salads, arancini (rice balls) and af- gover show up to cure their ills with Prune’s fordable wines round out the menu. brunches and excellent Bloody Marys (in 11 varieties). The small room is always busy as diners pour in for grilled trout with mint and almond salsa, seared duck breast and ESSEX STREET MARKET MARKET $ rich sweetbreads. Reservations available Map p418 (%212-312-3603; www.essexstreet for dinner only. market.com; 120 Essex St, btwn Delancey & Riv- ington Sts; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; bF to Delancey St; J/M/Z to Essex St) Founded 5 Lower East Side in 1940, this market is the local place for produce, seafood, butcher-cut meats, cheeses, Latino grocery items, and even a EL REY CAFE $ Map p418 (%212-260-3950; elreynyc.com; 100 barber’s shop. Although the interior is fairly Stanton St, btwn Orchard & Ludlow; small plates bland, there are some excellent gourmet $7-17; h7am-10:30pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat & goodies here. Stop in Rainbo’s for smoked

117 e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles E 10th St Astor Pl Third Ave STqoumarpekPinarsk ¦# ¦# E 8th St #4 St Marks Pl #6 #'7€ EAST VILLAGE Astor Pl #5 E 6th St Lafayette St Fourth Ave #3 Cooper Square Second Ave E 4th St First Ave ALPHABET Ave A CITY NOHO Bowery St 1 1 1 11 1 Bond St 1 1E 21nd1St1 1 #¦ Bleecker St &~#2 1 1 #1 1 1 LOWER Bleecker St 1 1 EAST SIDE 1 11 1 1 1 22#¦ Neighborhood Wa#¦lk East Village Nostalgia START CBGB parlors and cheap eateries that haven’t END TOMPKINS SQUARE PARK changed much at all since the 1980s. Poke LENGTH 1.5 MILES; 1.5 HOURS your head into 4Trash & Vaudeville, a From the Bleecker St subway station, head east along the leafy like-named street for a landmark goth-and-punk shop. Head south few blocks until you reach the former down Second Ave to the site of the long-de- 1CBGB, a famous music venue that funct 5Fillmore East, a 2000-seat live- opened in 1973 and launched punk rock via music venue run by promoter Bill Graham the Ramones. Today, it’s a John Varvatos from 1968 to 1971. In the ’80s the space boutique (p127) selling rock-inspired was transformed into the Saint – the leg- leather jackets – the old walls of fading endary, 5000-sq-ft dance club that kicked posters and wild graffiti remain untouched. off a joyous, drug-laden, gay disco culture. The corner just north of here marks the Cross Second Ave at 6th St and head down the block-long strip of Indian restaurants block-long 2Joey Ramone Place, named and curry shops. At First Ave, turn left, rejoin St Marks Pl and turn right. The row of after the Ramones’ singer who succumbed to cancer in 2001. Head north on the Bow- tenements is the site of Led Zeppelin’s 6 ery to Astor Pl. Turn right and head east Physical Graffiti cover (96–98 St Marks through the square to come to 3Cooper Pl), where Mick and Keith sat in 1981 in the Rolling Stones’ hilarious video for ‘Waiting Union (p110), where in 1860 presidential on a Friend.’ End your stroll at the infamous hopeful Abraham Lincoln rocked a skeptical New York crowd with a rousing anti-slavery 7Tompkins Square Park (p112), where speech that ensured his candidacy. Contin- ue east on St Marks Pl, a block full of tattoo drag queens started the Wigstock summer festival at the bandshell where Jimi Hendrix played in the 1960s.

118 fish, Saxelby Cheesemongers for artisanal to sit, so grab a number when you come cheese and Luca & Bosco for rich ice cream. in, order your salmon-topped bagel and Pain d’Avignon bakes fresh breads, Bou- other goodies, then retreat to a park bench bouki whips up spinach pies and baklava, around the corner. while Roni-Sue’s Chocolates spreads sweet temptations. MIKEY LIKES IT ICE CREAM $ You can also nosh on-site at Shopsin’s (www.mikeylikesiticecream.com; 199 Ave A; sin- General Store, Ni Japanese Delicacies and gle scoop $4; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Davidovich Bakery. Fri & Sat; bL to First Ave) There’s more than meets the eye at this tiny blue-and-white ice-cream shop. The homemade flavors are CHEEKY SANDWICHES SANDWICHES $ delicious and come in wild combinations: Map p418 (%646-504-8132; www.cheeky- balsamic macerated strawberries with sandwiches.com; 35 Orchard St; sandwiches $7-9; h7am-9pm Mon-Thu, 8am-midnight Fri & black pepper or banana ice cream with chocolate-covered peanuts. It’s also run by Sat, 8am-9pm Sun; bF to East Broadway) This an ex-con who turned his life around and ramshackle little eatery looks like it’s been airlifted in from Cajun Country. The bis- has become the ambassador of artisanal ice cream named after hip-hop songs. E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e E at i ng cuit sandwiches are outstanding – try one topped with fried chicken, coleslaw and gravy. Add on chicory coffee and bread pud- DIMES CAFE $$ ding and you have a great cheap meal. Map p418 (%212-925-1300; www.dimesnyc.com; 49 Canal St, btwn Orchard & Ludlow Sts; mains breakfast $8-13, dinner $14-23; h8am-11pm VANESSA’S DUMPLING HOUSE CHINESE $ Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; v) This tiny, Map p418 (%212-625-8008; www.vanessas.com; sun-drenched eatery has a strong local fol- 118 Eldridge St, btwn Grand & Broome Sts; dump- lowing for its friendly service and healthy, lings $1.25-5; h10:30am-10pm; bB/D to Grand good-value dishes. A design-minded group St; J to Bowery; F to Delancey St) Tasty dump- crowds in for spicy breakfast tacos (served lings – served steamed, fried or in soup – til 4pm), bowls of granola with açaí (that are whipped together in iron skillets at strongly flavored, vitamin-rich Amazonian light speed and tossed into hungry mouths berry), creative salads (with sunchokes, an- at unbeatable prices. chovies, goat cheese) and heartier dishes for dinner (striped bass with green curry, PROHIBITION BAKERY BAKERY $ pulled pork with jasmine rice). Map p418 (www.prohibitionbakery.com; 9 Clin- ton St, btwn Houston & Stanton Sts; 3/12 mini- cupcakes $5/20; h11am-8pm Tue-Thu, to 9pm RUSS & DAUGHTERS Fri & Sat, noon-6pm Sun; bJ/M/Z TO Essex St; F to Delancey St) Can’t decide whether to swig CAFE EASTERN EUROPEAN $$ a shot of rum or munch down an eclair? Prohibition Bakery has you covered, with Map p418 (%212-475-4881; 127 Orchard St, its boozy cupcakes melding two essential btwn Delancey & Rivington Sts; mains $13-20; but somehow neglected food groups: alco- h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat & Sun; bF hol and dessert. Try flavors such as the Car to Delancey St; J/M/Z to Essex St) Sit down and Bomb (whiskey, Baileys, stout and choco- feast on bagels and lox in the comfort of an late) or the Bee’s Knees (lemon, honey and old-school diner. Aside from rich slices of gin) and you’ll wonder why no one thought smoked fish, you can nibble on potato lat- of this sooner. kes, warm up over a bowl of borscht or feast on eggs Benny (poached eggs with smoked salmon, sauteed spinach and hollandaise sauce). RUSS & DAUGHTERS DELI $ ANTIBES FRENCH $$ Map p418 (www.russanddaughters.com; 179 E Map p418 (%212-533-6088; www.antibesbistro. com; 112 Suffolk St, btwn Delancey & Rivington Houston St, btwn Orchard & Allen Sts ; mains Sts; mains $17-24; h11am-4:30pm Sat & Sun, $10-14; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 5:30pm Sun; bF to Second Ave) In business since 1914, this 5pm-11:30pm daily ; bJ/M/Z to Essex St; F to De- lancey St) Named after a seaside town on the landmark establishment serves up Eastern Côte d’Azur, this petite bistro exudes effort- European Jewish delicacies such as caviar, herring and lox, and, of course, a smear of less charm, with its rustic chandeliers and cozy, low-lit dining room. It also remains cream cheese on a bagel. There’s nowhere

119 somewhat undiscovered, despite serving FREEMANS AMERICAN $$$ excellent French-Mediterranean dishes at fair prices. Start off with grilled octopus Map p418 (%212-420-0012; www.freemansres with crushed chickpeas or seared foie gras, taurant.com; end of Freeman Alley; mains lunch then move onto braised short ribs or wild $14-22, dinner $23-32; h11am-11:30pm Mon-Fri, mushroom risotto. There’s also a decent from 10am Sat & Sun; bF to Second Ave) Tucked wine list, with glasses starting at $8. down a back alley, the charmingly located Freeman’s draws a mostly hipster crowd who let their chunky jewelry clang on the CLINTON STREET wooden tables as they lean over to sip over- BAKING COMPANY AMERICAN $$ flowing cocktails. Potted plants and taxi- Map p418 (%646-602-6263; www.clintonstreet dermic antlers lend an endearing hunting- baking.com; 4 Clinton St, btwn Stanton & Houston Sts; mains $12-20; h8am-4pm & 6-11pm Mon- cabin vibe – a charming escape from the bustle (when there isn’t a crowd inside). Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; bJ/M/Z to Essex St; F to De- The seasonal menu features the likes of lancey St; F to Second Ave) Mom-and-pop shop extraordinaire, Clinton Street Baking Com- whole grilled trout (from upstate NY), Colo- rado lamb stew, and roasted squash with pany gets the blue-ribbon in so many cate- wild mushrooms. gories – best pancakes (blueberry! swoon!), best muffins, best po’boys (southern-style E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e D r i n k i ng & N i ght l i fe FAT RADISH MODERN BRITISH $$$ sandwiches), best biscuits etc – that you’re Map p418 (%212-300-4053; www.thefatrad pretty much guaranteed a stellar meal no ishnyc.com; 17 Orchard St, btwn Hester & Canal matter what time you stop by. In the eve- Sts; mains lunch $12-17, dinner $20-31; hnoon- nings, you can opt for ‘breakfast for dinner’ 3:30pm daily, 5:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm (pancakes, eggs Benedict), fish tacos or the Sun; bF to East Broadway; B/D to Grand St) The excellent buttermilk fried chicken. young and fashionable pack into this dimly Half-priced bottles of wine sweeten the lit dining room with exposed white brick deal on Monday and Tuesday. and industrial touches. There’s a loud buzz and people checking each other out but the BOIL SEAFOOD $$ mains, typical of the local, seasonal, haute- Map p418 (%212-925-8815; www.theboilny.com; pub-food fad, are worth your attention. 139 Chrystie St, btwn Delancey & Broome Sts; shrimp/crab/crab legs per pound from $13/35/18; Start off with big briny oysters before mov- ing on to heritage pork chop with glazed h5-11pm Mon-Fri, from 4pm Sat & Sun; bJ/Z to squash or Montauk diver scallops with Bowery; B/D to Grand St) When the waitstaff asks if you’d care for rubber gloves and a sweet potato mash. bib, you know you’re in for a dining adven- ture. Crustaceans, of course, are the reason you’re here and you’ll make an ungodly mess 6 DRINKING & tearing into succulent Dungeness crab, lob- NIGHTLIFE ster, crawfish, shrimp and clams (hence the 6 East Village gloves). Craft beers go down nicely with the proceedings. Cash only. FUNG TU FUSION $$$ RUE B BAR Map p418 (%212-219-8785; www.fungtu.com; Map p416 (www.ruebnyc188.com; 188 Ave B, 22 Orchard St, btwn Hester & Canal Sts; small plates $13-18, mains $24-32; h6pm-midnight btwn 11th & 12th Sts; hnoon-4am; bL to First Ave) There’s live jazz (and the odd rockabilly Tue-Sat, 4pm-10pm Sun; bF to East Broadway) group) every night from about 8:30pm at Celebrated chef Jonathan Wu brilliantly blends Chinese cooking with global accents this tiny, amber-lit drinking den on a bar- dappled stretch of Avenue B. It draws a at this elegant little eatery on the edge of young, celebratory crowd, and the space is Chinatown. The complex sharing plates are superb (try scallion pancakes with cashew quite small, so mind the tight corners, lest the trombonist end up in your lap. salad and smoked chicken or crepe roll stuffed with braised beef, pickled cucum- CLUB BERLIN bers and watercress) and pair nicely with Map p416 (25 Ave A, btwn First & Second Aves; creative cocktails like the Fung Tu Gibson. h10pm-4am; bF to Second Ave) Like a secret bunker hidden beneath the ever-gentrifying

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121BARRY WINIKER / GETTY IMAGES © 1. Cocktail hour at Cienfuegos LIFESTOCK / GETTY IMAGES © (p123) Bar hop through the East Village (p119), where the cocktail was born. 2. Museum at Eldridge Street Synagogue (p112) Tour the fully restored synagogue, once the thriving center of Jewish life in the city. 3. Tompkins Square Park (p111) Pull up a bench and take in the East Village atmosphere. 4. Almost-secret bars Enter through the downstairs phone booth and enjoy a drink and the novelty factor of bar PDT (Please Don’t Tell; p123).

122 streets of the East Village, Berlin is a throw- PROLETARIAT BAR back to the neighborhood’s more riotous days of wildness and dancing. Once you find Map p416 (%212-777-6707; proletariatny.com; 102 the unmarked entrance, head downstairs to St Marks Pl, btwn First Ave & Ave A; h5pm-2am; the grotto-like space with vaulted brick ceil- bL to First Ave) The cognoscente of NYC’s ings, a long bar and tiny dance floor, with beer world pack this tiny, 10-stool bar just funk and rare grooves spilling all around. west of Tompkins Square Park. Promising ‘rare, new and unusual beers,’ Proletariat It draws a fun, bohemian crowd, a mix of delivers the goods with a changing lineup class and trash, with little pretension. of brews you won’t find elsewhere. Recent hits have included drafts from artisanal WAYLAND BAR brewers such as Hitachino Nest of Japan, Map p416 (%212-777-7022; www.thewaylandnyc. Swiss-based BFM and Mahrs Bräu from com; 700 E 9th St, cnr Ave C; h5pm-4am; bL to First Ave) Whitewashed walls, weathered Germany. floorboards and salvaged lamps give this ANGEL’S SHARE BAR urban outpost a Mississippi flair, which Map p416 (%212-777-5415; 2nd fl, 8 Stuyvesant goes well with the live music (bluegrass, St, near Third Ave & E 9th St; h6pm-1:30am Sun- jazz, folk) played on Monday to Wednesday Thu, to 2:30am Fri & Sat; b6 to Astor Pl) Show E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e D r i n k i ng & N i ght l i fe nights. The drinks, though, are the real up early and snag a seat at this hidden gem, draw – try the ‘I hear banjos’, made of Apple behind a Japanese restaurant on the same pie moonshine, rye whiskey and applewood floor. It’s quiet and elegant with creative smoke, which tastes like a campfire (but cocktails, but you can’t stay if you don’t slightly less burning). have a table or a seat at the bar, and they Decent drink specials and $1 oysters tend to go fast. from 5 to 7pm on weekdays. OST CAFE CAFE IMMIGRANT BAR Map p416 (%212-477-5600; www.ostcafenyc. Map p416 (%646-308-1724; 341 E 9th St, btwn com; 441 E 12th St, cnr Ave A; h7:30am-10pm First & Second Aves; h5pm-1am Sun-Wed, to 2am Mon-Fri, from 8:30am Sat & Sun; bL to First Thu-Sat; bL to First Ave; 4/6 to Astor Pl) Wholly Ave) If you seek a charming spot to drink a unpretentious, these twin boxcar-sized bars frothy latte this is the place. With exposed could easily become your neighborhood lo- brick walls, pressed tin ceiling, velvety arm- cal if you decide to stick around town. The chairs and marble-topped cafe tables, Ost staff are knowledgeable and kind, mingling Cafe has class. It also has excellent coffee with faithful regulars while dishing out drinks (the kind that are topped with foam tangy olives and topping up glasses with art) and wines by the glass (around $12). imported snifters. POURING RIBBONS COCKTAIL BAR Enter the right side for the wine bar, with an excellent assortment of wines by Map p416 (%917-656-6788; www.pouringribbons. the glass. The left entrance takes you into com; 2nd fl, 225 Avenue B; h6pm-2am; bL to the tap room, where the focus is on unique First Ave) From the team behind Death & Co, microbrews. Both have a similar design – Pouring Ribbons keeps the gimmicks and chandeliers, exposed brick, vintage charm. pretension low and the flavors exceptional. The encyclopedic cocktail menu could sate JIMMY’S NO 43 BAR any appetite and includes a handy ‘drink- Map p416 (%212-982-3006; www.jimmysno43. decider’ listing flavors such as ‘refreshing’ com; 43 E 7th St, btwn Third & Second Aves; h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, 1pm-4am Fri & Sat, 1pm- to ‘comforting’ on different axes. There is also possibly the largest collection of Char- 1am Sun; bN/R to 8th St-NYU; F to Second Ave; treuse in NYC. 4/6 to Astor Pl) Barrels and stag antlers line the walls up to the ceiling of this cozy base- DEATH + CO LOUNGE ment beer hall as locals chug their drinks. Map p416 (%212-388-0882; www.deathand- company.com; 433 E 6th St, btwn First Ave & Ave Select from over 50 imported favorites (a A; h6pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; bF to dozen on draft) to go with a round of delec- table, locally sourced bar nibbles. Second Ave; L to First Ave; 6 Astor Pl) Relax amid dim lighting and thick wooden slatting and let the bartenders – with their PhDs in mixology – work their magic as they shake,

123 rattle and roll some of the most perfectly CIENFUEGOS BAR concocted cocktails (from $15) in town. Map p416 (%212-614-6818; www.cienfuegosny. com; 95 Ave A, btwn 6th & 7th Sts; h5pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat ; bF to Second Ave; L to ABC BEER CO BAR Map p416 (%646-422-7103; www.abcbeer.co; 96 First Ave; 4/6 to Astor Pl) Cienfuegos channels Ave C, btwn 6th & 7th Sts; hnoon-midnight Sun- the old-fashioned style of its colonial-era Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; bF to Second Ave; L to First Cuban namesake inside an upstairs rum- Ave) At first glance, ABC looks like a dimly punch joint. A sampler of tasty Cuban dish- lit beer shop (indeed bottles are available es makes the perfect midnight snack. If you for purchase), but venture deeper inside and like this place, then make a pit stop around you’ll find a small indie-rock–playing gastro- the corner at Amor y Amargo – Cienfuegos’ pub in back, with a long communal table, a tiny bitters-centric brother. few plush leather sofas and chairs set against the brick walls. The generally young crowd PDT BAR come for craft beer (350 by the bottle and Map p416 (%212-614-0386; www.pdtnyc.com; 113 St Marks Pl, btwn First Ave & Ave A; h6pm-2am Sun- 12 constantly rotating selections on draft), Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; bL to First Ave) PDT, which plus cheese plates, smoked meats and deli- cious ‘brown bag’ sandwiches (good value stands for ‘Please Don’t Tell’, scores high on novelty. You enter through the phone booth E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e D r i n k i ng & N i ght l i fe at $9 each). There’s also a small patio out at the hot dog snack shop (Crif Dogs) next the back. door. Once you’re given the OK (reservations are recommended to avoid being turned AMOR Y AMARGO BAR away), you’ll step into an intimate lowlit bar Map p416 (%212-614-6818; amoryamargony.com; with the odd animal head on the wall. 443 E 6th St, btwn Ave A & First Ave; h5pm-1am Mon-Fri, noon-3am Sat, noon-1am Sun; bF to 2nd First-rate cocktails, high prices and a (sometimes) snooty attitude from the host- Ave; L to 1st Ave; 6 to Astor Pl) ‘Love and Bitters’ ess come standard with the experience. is a tiny but powerful specialist in crafty cocktails, showcasing its namesake selection of bitters. Ask the knowledgeable barkeeps BEAUTY & ESSEX BAR for advice on flavors; you won’t be disap- Map p418 (%212-614-0146; www.beauty andessex.com; 146 Essex St, btwn Stanton & pointed. Rivington Sts; h5pm-1am; bF to Delancey St; TEN DEGREES BAR WINE BAR J/M/Z to Essex St) Venture behind a tawdry pawnshop front space for a world of glam- Map p416 (%212-358-8600; www.10degreesbar. our. Beyond lies 10,000-sq-ft of sleek lounge com; 121 St Marks Pl, btwn First Ave & Ave A; hnoon-4am; bF to Second Ave; L to First Ave; L space, complete with leather sofas and ban- quettes, dramatic amber-tinged lighting to Third Ave) This small, candlelit St Marks and a curved staircase that leads to yet an- charmer is a great spot to start out the night with leather couches, friendly bartenders other lounge and bar area. The exuberance, high prices and pretentious crowd give the and an excellent wine and cocktails list. place a Gatsby-esque vibe. Come from noon to 8pm for two-for-one drink specials (otherwise, it’s $11 to $15 for Ladies in need of a drink might want to bypass the bar and pay a visit to the powder cocktails), or get half-priced bottles of wine room, where there’s complimentary cham- on Monday night. Go for the couches up front or grab a tiny table in the back nook. pagne (sorry, fellas). MAYAHUEL COCKTAIL BAR MCSORLEY’S OLD ALE HOUSE BAR Map p416 (%212-253-5888; www.mayahuelny. Map p416 (%212-473-9148; www.facebook.com/ McSorleys OldAleHouse; 15 E 7th St, btwn Sec- com; 304 E 6th St, at Second Ave; h6pm-2am; ond & Third Aves; hnoon-12:30am; b6 to As- bL to Third Ave; L to First Ave; 6 to Astor Pl) About as far from your typical Spring Break te- tor Pl) Around since 1854, McSorley’s feels far removed from the East Village veneer quila bar as you can get, Mayahuel is more of cool: you’re more likely to drink with like the cellar of a monastery. Devotees of the fermented agave can seriously indulge frat boys, tourists and the odd fireman. It’s hard to beat the cobwebs, sawdust floors themselves experimenting with dozens and flip waiters who slap down two mugs of varieties (all cocktails $15); in between drinks, snack on quesadillas and tamales. of the house’s ale for every one ordered.

124 COCK GAY BAR GOTO BAR Map p416 (www.cockbar.com; 93 Second Ave; (%212-475-4411; bargoto.com; 245 Eldridge St, h11pm-4am; bF/V to Lower East Side-Second btwn E Houston & Stanton Sts; h5pm-midnight Ave) A dark, dank spot that’s proud of its Tue-Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri & Sat; bF to Second sleazy-chic reputation, this is the place to Ave) Maverick mixologist Kenta Goto has join lanky hipster boys and rage until you’re cocktail connoisseurs spellbound at his kicked out at 4am. Varying theme nights eponymous hot spot. Expect meticulous, present popular parties with live perform- elegant drinks that revel in Koto’s Japanese ers, DJs, drag-queen hostesses, nearly na- heritage (the sake-spiked Sakura Martini is ked go-go boys and porn videos on constant utterly smashing), paired with authentic, loops. It’s wild and friendly. Japanese comfort bites such as okonomi- yaki (savory pancakes). EASTERN BLOC GAY Map p416 (%212-777-2555; www.easternblocnyc. JADIS WINE BAR com; 505 E 6th St, btwn Aves A & B; h7pm-4am; Map p418 (%212-254-1675; jadisnyc.com; 42 bF to Second Ave) Though the theme may be Rivington St, btwn Eldridge & Forsyth Sts; h5pm- ‘Iron Curtain,’ the drapery is most definitely 2am; bF to Second Ave; J/Z to Bowery) French velvet and taffeta at this East Village gay bar. for ‘in olden days’, Jadis channels a bit of E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e D r i n k i ng & N i ght l i fe Spring forth into the crowded sea of boys – European nostalgia with its worn brick some flirting with the topless barkeeps, walls, antique fixtures and warmly lit in- others pretending not to stare at the retro terior. You’ll find around two dozen or so ’70s porno playing on the TVs. wines by the glass, with French labels tak- ing pride of place. Snacks include escargots, salads, pressed sandwiches, homemade 6 Lower East Side quiches and rich cheeses. Start the evening early with $5 wines from 5pm to 7pm. TEN BELLS BAR Map p418 (%212-228-4450; www.tenbellsnyc. CAKE SHOP BAR com; 247 Broome St, btwn Ludlow & Orchard Sts; Map p418 (%212-253-0036; www.cake-shop. com; 152 Ludlow St, btwn Stanton & Rivington Sts; h5pm-2am Mon-Fri, from 3pm Sat & Sun; bF to hnoon-2am Sun-Wed, to 4am Thu-Sat; bF to Delancey St; J/M/Z to Essex St) This charm- ingly tucked-away tapas bar has a grotto- Second Ave; F to Delancey St; J/M/Z to Essex St) This little cafe and bar has a downtown bo- like design, with flickering candles, dark hemian vibe, with a small selection of vinyl tin ceilings, brick walls and a U-shaped bar that’s an ideal setting for a conversation for sale up front and a few tables in back, fine for nursing an evening beer or pas- with a new friend. try (it’s not called Cake Shop for nothing), The chalkboard menu hangs on both walls and features excellent wines by the while admiring your neighbor’s intriguing glass, which go nicely with boquerones tattoos. There’s a stage downstairs where (marinated anchovies), txipirones en su indie bands play ($10 cover) throughout the tinta (squid in ink sauce) and regional week, but the small space can get cramped quickly. cheeses. Come for happy hour when oysters are $1 each, and a carafe of wine costs $15. The unsigned entrance is easy to miss. It’s ROUND K CAFE right next to the shop Top Hat. Map p418 (roundk.com; 99 Allen St, btwn De- lancey & Broome Sts; h9am-8pm Sun-Wed, to BARRIO CHINO COCKTAIL BAR 10pm Thu-Sat; bB/D to Grand St; F to Delancey Map p418 (%212-228-6710; www.barriochinonyc. St; J/M/Z to Essex St) There’s something spe- com; 253 Broome St, btwn Ludlow & Orchard Sts; h11:30am-4:30pm & 5:30pm-1am; bF, J/M/Z cial about this charmingly hidden Korean- run cafe. Step inside and smell the coffee to Delancey-Essex Sts) An eatery that spills roasting, admire some antique-looking ma- easily into a party scene, with an airy Havana-meets-Beijing vibe and a focus on chinery, then order a perfectly made latte – and perhaps some ‘Mom’s Toast (a waffle fine sipping tequilas. Or stick with fresh with bourbon-infused bananas) – take your blood-orange or black-plum margaritas, guacamole and chicken tacos. delicate porcelain and pull back the cur- tain to reveal a quiet seating area lit with Tiffany-style glass lamps.

You never know who you may bump into; 125 we chatted with a Serbian painter trying to town, and offers a constant supply of high- break into the gallery scene when last we quality drama. passed through. SIDEWALK CAFÉ LIVE MUSIC Map p416 (%212-473-7373; www.sidewalkmusic. net; 94 Ave A, at 6th St; h11am-1am Sun-Thu, to CASA MEZCAL BAR 4am Fri & Sat; bF/V to Lower East Side-Second Map p418 (%212-777-2600; www.casamezcalny. Ave; 6 to Astor Pl) Anti-folk forever! Never com; 86 Orchard St, btwn Broome & Grand Sts; hnoon-11pm; bF to Delancey St; J/M/Z to Essex mind the Sidewalk’s burger-bar appearance outside – inside is the home of New York’s St; B/D to Grand St) This festive three-story ‘anti-folk’ scene, where the Moldy Peaches arts space celebrates the rich eating, drink- ing and musical traditions of Mexico – and carved out their legacy before Juno got knocked up. The open-mic ‘anti-hootenan- Oaxaca in particular. The tall-ceilinged ny’ is Monday night. Other nights host a main room is decorated with colorful paper streamers, masks, Day-of-the-Dead skulls, wide range of sounds: garage rock, indie pop, bluesy piano, and all things anti-folk. and other folk art. Downstairs is the cock- tail lounge and performance venue Botanic Lab. Upstairs is a small space called The SLIPPER ROOM LIVE PERFORMANCE E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e E nterta i nment Gallery, which hosts the odd art exhibition. Map p418 (%212-253-7246; www.slipperroom. com; 167 Orchard St, entrance on Stanton St; ad- mission $10-20; h8pm-3am; bF to Second Ave) ATTABOY COCKTAIL BAR The Slipper Room is back, and looking better Map p418 (134 Eldridge St, btwn Delancey & than ever thanks to a major renovation. The Broome Sts; h6:45pm-4am; bB/D to Grand St) One of those no-door-sign, speakeasy-vibe two-story club hosts a wide range of perfor- mances, including Seth Herzog’s (sethher- bars that are two-a-penny these days, this zog.tumblr.com) popular variety show Sweet one is a notch above, serving knockout arti- sanal cocktails – that will set you back $17 at 9pm on Tuesday (admission $5 to $7) and several weekly burlesque shows, which fea- each. There is no menu, so let the expert ture a mash-up of acrobatics, sexiness, com- bartenders guide you. edy and absurdity – generally well worth the admission. Tickets available online. 3 ENTERTAINMENT PS 122 THEATER Map p416 (%212-477-5829; www.ps122.org; 150 First Ave, at E 9th St; bL to First Ave; 6 to Astor ROCKWOOD MUSIC HALL LIVE MUSIC Pl) This theatre set in a former schoolhouse Map p418 (%212-477-4155; www.rockwoodmusic has been committed to fostering new artists hall.com; 196 Allen St, btwn Houston & Stanton Sts; h6pm-2am Mon-Fri, from 3pm Sat & Sun; bF/V and their far-out ideas since its inception in 1979. Its two stages have hosted such now- to Lower East Side-Second Ave) Opened by in- known performers as Meredith Monk, Eric die rocker Ken Rockwood, this breadbox- sized concert space has three stages that Bogosian and the late Spalding Gray, and it’s also home to dance shows, film screenings see a rapid-fire flow of bands and singer/ and various festivals for up-and-coming songwriters. If cash and time are limited, head to stage 1, which has free shows, with talents. At the time of writing PS 122 was undergoing a massive transformation as it a maximum of one hour per band (die- creates new state-of-the-art performance hards can see five or more performances a night). Music kicks off at 3pm on weekends spaces and adds additional artist studios, a new lobby and a roof deck. There will and 6pm on weeknights. also be an outdoor light installation called NEW YORK THEATRE WORKSHOP THEATER Inhale/Exhale that will give a gentle pulse Map p416 (%212-460-5475; www.nytw.org; 79 E to the building, making it appear alive. PS 4th St, btwn Second & Third Aves; bF to Second 122 is scheduled to reopen in mid-2016. Ave) Recently celebrating its 25th year, this innovative production house is a treasure to ANTHOLOGY FILM ARCHIVES CINEMA those seeking cutting-edge, contemporary plays with purpose. It was the originator Map p416 (%212-505-5181; www.anthologyfilm- of two big Broadway hits, Rent and Urine- archives.org;32 Second Ave, at 2nd St; bF to Sec- ond Ave) Opened in 1970, this theater is dedi- cated to the idea of film as an art form. It

126 screens indie works by new filmmakers and NUYORICAN POETS CAFÉ LIVE PERFORMANCE revives classics and obscure oldies, from Map p416 (%212-780-9386; www.nuyorican.org; Luis Buñuel to Ken Brown’s psychedelia. 236 E 3rd St; cover $8-25; hshows 9pm or 10pm; bF to Lower East Side-Second Ave) Still going STONE LIVE MUSIC strong after 40-plus years, the legendary Nuyorican is home to poetry slams, hip-hop Map p416 (www.thestonenyc.com; Ave C, at 2nd St; performances, plays, and film and video admission $10-20; hshows 8pm & 10pm; bF/V events. It’s a piece of East Village history, to Lower East Side-Second Ave) Created by re- but also a vibrant and still-relevant non- nowned downtown jazz cat John Zorn, the profit arts organization. Buy tickets online Stone is about the music and nothing but for the more popular weekend shows. the music, in all its experimental and avant- garde forms. There’s no bar or frills of any kind – just folding chairs in a dark space on BOWERY BALLROOM LIVE MUSIC a concrete floor. Map p418 (%212-533-2111; www.boweryballroom. com; 6 Delancey St, at Bowery St; bJ/Z to Bow- LIVE MUSIC ery; B/D to Grand St) This terrific, medium- PIANOS sized venue has the perfect sound and feel for well-known indie-rock acts such as The Map p418 (%212-505-3733; www.pianosnyc.com; Shins, Stephen Malkmus and Patti Smith. 158 Ludlow St, at Stanton St; cover $8-12; h2pm- E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e E nterta i nment 4am; bF to Second Ave) Nobody’s bothered to change the sign at the door, a leftover from the location’s previous incarnation as LA MAMA ETC THEATER a piano shop. Now it’s dedicated to a musi- Map p416 (%646-430-5374; www.lamama.org; cal mix of genres and styles, leaning more 74A E 4th St; admission $25; bF to Second Ave) toward pop, punk and new wave, but throw- A long-standing home for onstage experi- ing in some hip-hop and indie for good mentation (the ETC stands for Experimen- measure. Sometimes you get a double fea- tal Theater Club), La MaMa is now a three- ture – one act upstairs and another below. theater complex with a cafe, an art gallery and a separate studio building that features ABRONS ARTS CENTER THEATER cutting-edge dramas, sketch comedy and Map p418 (%212-598-0400; www.abrons readings of all kinds. Ten $10 tickets are artscenter.org; 466 Grand St, cnr Pitt St; c; bF, J, M, Z to Delancey St-Essex St) This venerable available for each show. Book early to score a deal! cultural hub has three theaters, the larg- est being the Playhouse Theater (a national MERCURY LOUNGE LIVE MUSIC landmark), with its own lobby, fixed seats Map p418 (%212-260-4700; www.mercurylounge on a rise, a large, deep stage and good vis- nyc.com; 217 E Houston St, btwn Essex & Ludlow ibility. A mainstay of the downtown Fringe Sts; cover charge $10-15; h6pm-3am; bF/V to Festival, Abrons Art Center is also your best Lower East Side-Second Ave) The Mercury de- bet to catch experimental and community pendably pulls in a cool new or comeback productions. band everyone downtown wants to see – Not afraid of difficult subjects, Abrons such as Dengue Fever or the Slits. The sponsors plays, dance and photography ex- sound is good, with an intimate seating hibits that don’t get much play elsewhere. area and dance space. LANDMARK SUNSHINE CINEMA CINEMA 7 SHOPPING Map p418 (%212-260-7289; www.landmarkthea tres.com; 143 E Houston St, btwn Forsyth & El- 7 East Village dridge Sts; bF/V to Lower East Side-Second Ave) A renovated Yiddish theater, the wonder- A-1 RECORDS MUSIC ful Landmark shows foreign and first-run mainstream art-house films on massive Map p416 (%212-473-2870; www.a1recordshop. screens. It also has much-coveted stadium- com; 439 E 6th St, btwn First Ave & Ave A; h1- style seating, so it doesn’t matter what giant sits in front of you after the lights go out. 9pm; bF/V to Lower East Side-Second Ave) One of the last of the many record stores that

once graced the East Village, A-1 has an ex- 127 cellent selection of jazz, funk and soul, and Designer Vera Balyura creates exquisite the cramped aisles draw vinyl fans from far little pieces with a dark sense of humor in and wide. this delightful little shop on 9th St. Tiny, artfully wrought pendants, rings, earrings STILL HOUSE HOMEWARES and bracelets appear almost too precious, until a closer inspection reveals zombies, Map p416 (%212-539-0200; www.stillhousenyc. godzilla robots, animal heads, dinosaurs com; 117 E 7th St; hnoon-8pm; b6 to Astor Pl) and encircling claws – bringing a whole Step into this petite, peaceful boutique to new level of miniaturized complexity to the browse sculptural glassware and pottery: realm of jewelry. handblown vases, geometric tabletop objects, DINOSAUR HILL CHILDREN ceramic bowls and cups, and other finery for the home. You’ll also find minimalistic jew- Map p416 (%212-473-5850; www.dinosaurhill. com; 306 E 9th St; h11am-7pm; b6 to Astor elry, delicately bound notebooks and small Pl) A small, old-fashioned toy store that’s framed artworks for the wall. Still House has lots of great gift ideas, inspired more by imagination than Disney movies, this shop has loads of great gift and the objects are small enough to bring ideas: Czech marionettes, shadow puppets, home. They are quite delicate, so make sure they’re well wrapped. micro building blocks, calligraphy sets, toy E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e E nterta i nment pianos, art and science kits, kids’ music CDs from around the globe, and wooden blocks OBSCURA ANTIQUES ANTIQUES in half-a-dozen different languages, plus Map p416 (%212-505-9251; www.obscuraan- natural-fiber clothing for infants. tiques.com; 207 Ave A, btwn 12th & 13th Sts; hnoon-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; bL to First Ave) This small cabinet of curiosities pleases JOHN VARVATOS FASHION both lovers of the macabre and inveterate Map p416 (%212-358-0315; www.johnvarvatos. com; 315 Bowery, btwn 1st & 2nd Sts; hnoon- antique hunters. Here you’ll find taxider- 8pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; bF to Second Ave; 6 to mied animal heads, tiny rodent skulls and skeletons, butterfly displays in glass boxes, Bleecker St) Set in the hallowed halls of for- mer punk club CBGB (p381), the John Var- photos of dead people, disturbing little vatos Bowery store goes to great lengths to (dental?) instruments, German landmine flags (stackable so tanks could see them), tie fashion with rock-and-roll, with records, ’70s audio equipment and even electric gui- old poison bottles and glass eyes. tars for sale alongside JV’s denim, leather Dig deeper to find cane toad purses (sure to please the Aussie crowd), Zippos from boots, belts and graphic tees. Vietnam soldiers, anatomical drawings, a JOHN DERIAN HOMEWARES two-headed calf, a stuffed hyena and other items not currently available at the local de- Map p416 (%212-677-3917; www.johnderian.com; 6 E 2nd St, btwn Bowery & Second Ave; h11am- partment store. 7pm Tue-Sun; bF/V to Lower East Side-Second VERAMEAT JEWELRY Ave) John Derian is famed for its decoupage – pieces from original botanical and animal Map p416 (%212-388-9045; www.verameat. prints stamped under glass. The result is a com; 315 E 9th St, btwn First & Second Aves; hnoon-8pm; b6 to Astor Pl; F to Second Ave) beautiful collection of one-of-a-kind plates, DOWNTOWN SHOPPING 101 The downtown fashion crowd looking for that edgy, experimental or ‘old-school hip- hop’ look heads to the shops in the Lower East Side. Here dozens of stores sell vintage apparel, vegan shoes, old-fashioned candy, sex toys, left-wing books and more. Swing by the Essex Street Market for bagels, smoked salmon and other edible temptations. In NYC’s ever-ephemeral shopping scene, boutiques – like style trends – come and go on a whim. The shops Reformation (p128), Yumi Kim (p128), and Assembly (p128) are a great starting point in seeking hot new downtown fashions. In the East Village – once known as the archetype of underground downtown style – you’ll find urban and outsider fashion. New local designers, sleeker shops and chain stores have also moved into the area, taking away some of its former edginess.

128 paperweights, coasters, lamps, bowls and 7 Lower East Side vases. ODIN (EAST VILLAGE) FASHION ECONOMY CANDY FOOD Map p416 (%212-475-0666; www.odinnewyork. Map p418 (%212-254-1531; www.economycandy. com; 328 E 11th St; hnoon-9pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; bL to First Ave; L, N/Q/R, 4/5/6 to 14th St- com; 108 Rivington St, at Essex St; h9am-6pm Sun & Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Mon; bF, J/M/Z Union Sq) Named after the mighty Norse to Delancey St-Essex St) Bringing sweetness god, Odin offers a bit of magic for men seeking a new look. The large boutique car- to the ’hood since 1937, this candy shop is stocked with floor-to-ceiling goods in pack- ries stylish downtown labels such as Phillip age and bulk, and is home to some beautiful Lim, Band of Outsiders and Edward, and is a great place to browse for up-and-coming antique gum machines. You’ll find every- thing from the kid-worthy jelly beans, lol- designers. Other eye candy at the mini- lipops, gum balls, Cadbury imports, gummy malist store includes Comme des Garçons wallets, sleek sunglasses, Sharps grooming worms and rock candy to more adult deli- cacies such as halvah, green tea bonbons, products and Taschen coffee-table books. hand-dipped chocolates, dried ginger and Other branches are in SoHo (p102) and E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e E nterta i nment the West Village (p157). papaya. There’s also an eye-catching assortment of collectible Pez dispensers. TOKIO 7 FASHION Map p416 (%212-353-8443; www.tokio7.net; 83 E REFORMATION CLOTHING 7th St, near First Ave; hnoon-8pm; b6 to Astor Pl) This revered, hip consignment shop, on Map p418 (%646-448-4925; www.thereforma tion.com; 156 Ludlow St, btwn Rivington & Stanton a shady stretch of E 7th St, has good-con- Sts; hnoon-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; bF to De- dition designer labels for men and women at some fairly hefty prices. The Japanese- lancey St; F to 2nd Ave; J/M/Z to Essex St) S This stylish boutique sells beautifully designed owned store often features lovely pieces by garments with minimal environmental Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, as well as a well-curated selection of Dolce & Gab- impact. Aside from their green credentials, they sell unique tops, blouses, sweaters and bana, Prada, Chanel and other top labels. dresses, with fair prices in comparison to Watch out for the giant alien-samurai thing out front (made of repurposed ma- other Lower Eeast Side boutiques. Clothes are manufactured in California chine parts). using renewable energy and shipped in NO RELATION VINTAGE VINTAGE 100% recycled packaging – plus they tick other boxes: fair labor practices, support for Map p416 (%212-228-5201; norelationvintage. volunteer organizations and other policies com; 204 First Ave, btwn 12th & 13th Sts; hnoon- 8pm; bL to First Ave) Among the many vin- unusual for a clothing company. tage shops of the East Village, No Relation ASSEMBLY FASHION is a winner for its wide-ranging collections that run the gamut from denim and leather Map p418 (%212-253-5393; www.assembly- newyork.com; 170 Ludlow St, btwn Stanton & jackets to flannels, sneakers, plaid shirts, Houston Sts; hnoon-8pm; bF to Second Ave) candy-colored T-shirts, varsity jackets, clutches and more. Sharpen your elbows: Whitewashed floorboards and an air of stylish whimsy define this dapper men’s hipster crowds flock here on weekends. and women’s shop in the Lower East Side. KIEHL’S BEAUTY There’s lots of covet-worthy wares on dis- play, showcasing obscure designers from Map p416 (%212-677-3171; 109 Third Ave, btwn East and West. Look for canvas high tops 13th & 14th Sts; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am- 7pm Sun; bL to 3rd Ave) Making and selling by Shoes Like Pottery, satchels by Le Bas, chunky jewelry by Open House and outer- skincare products since it opened in NYC wear by the shop’s in-house label Assembly. as an apothecary in 1851, this Kiehl’s flag- ship store has doubled its shop size and ex- panded into an international chain, but its YUMI KIM CLOTHING personal touch remains – as do the coveted, Map p418 (%212-420-5919; www.yumikim.com; 105 Stanton St, btwn Ludlow & Essex Sts; hnoon- generous sample sizes. 7pm; bF to Delancey St; F to Second Ave; J/M/Z to

129 Essex St) To add a burst of color to your ward- TOP HAT ACCESSORIES robe, head to Yumi Kim, a delightful little boutique selling fun dresses, blouses, skirts, Map p418 (%212-677-4240; www.tophatnyc. jumpsuits and accessories all adorned with com; 245 Broome St, btwn Ludlow & Orchard Sts; bright floral and tropical prints. The cuts hnoon-8pm; bB/D to Grand St) Sporting cu- are quite flattering, and most are made of rios from around the globe, this whimsical 100% silk – making them good, lightweight little shop is packed with intrigue: from options for travel. vintage Italian pencils and handsomely miniaturized leather journals to beauti- fully carved wooden bird whistles. If you’re EDITH MACHINIST VINTAGE looking for an endless rain album, a toy Map p418 (%212-979-9992; www.edithmachinist. clarinet, Japanese fabrics, a crumpled map com; 104 Rivington St, at Ludlow St; hnoon-7pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun & Mon; bF to Delancey St; of the night sky or geometric Spanish cups and saucers, you’ll find all these and more J/M/Z to Essex St) To properly strut about at fanciful Top Hat. the Lower East Side, you’ve got to dress the part. Edith Machinist can help you get that BLUESTOCKINGS BOOKS rumpled but stylish look in a hurry – a bit of Map p418 (%212-777-6028; www.bluestockings. vintage glam via knee-high soft suede boots, com; 172 Allen St, btwn Stanton & Rivington Sts; 1930s silk dresses and ballet-style flats. h11am-11pm; bF/V to Lower East Side-Second E as t Vi ll ag e & Low e r E as t Si d e S ports & A c t i v i t i es Ave) This independent bookstore, which MOO SHOES SHOES first opened with a lesbian bent, has now Map p418 (%212-254-6512; www.mooshoes. expanded its turf to encompass a wide com; 78 Orchard St, btwn Broome & Grand Sts; h11:30am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; bF range of topics, including feminism, glo- balism and African American studies. It’s to Delancey St; J/M/Z to Essex St) This earth- also the site of a vegan, organic, fair-trade and animal-friendly boutique sells surpris- ingly stylish microfiber (faux leather) shoes, cafe, as well as myriad readings and speak- ing events. handbags and wallets. Look for elegant bal- let flats from Love Is Mighty, rugged men’s Oxfords by Novacos, and sleek Matt & Nat wallets. 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES BY ROBERT JAMES FASHION RUSSIAN & TURKISH BATHS BATHHOUSE Map p418 (%212-253-2121; www.byrobertjames. Map p416 (%212-674-9250; www.russianturkish- com; 74 Orchard St; hnoon-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm baths.com; 268 E 10th St, btwn First Ave & Ave A; Sun; bF to Delancey St; J/M/Z to Essex St) Rug- per visit $40; hnoon-10pm Mon-Tue & Thu-Fri, ged, beautifully tailored menswear is the from 10am Wed, from 9am Sat, from 8am Sun; bL mantra of Robert James, who sources and to First Ave; 6 to Astor Pl) Since 1892, this has manufactures right here in NYC (the de- been the spa for anyone who wants to get sign studio is just upstairs). The racks are naked (or stay in their swimsuit) and romp lined with slim-fitting denim, handsome in steam baths, an ice-cold plunge pool, button-downs, and classic-looking sports a sauna or on the sundeck. The baths are coats. Lola, James’ black labrador, some- open to both men and women most hours times roams the store. He also has a store (wearing shorts is required at these times), in Williamsburg. though at some times it’s men or women only. Check the website for more detailed opening hours.

1 30 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd West Village, Chelsea & the Meatpacking District WEST VILLAGE & THE MEATPACKING DISTRICT | CHELSEA Neighborhood Top Five 1 Packing a picnic lunch 2 Checking out the bright- 4 Exploring fascinating from Chelsea Market and est art stars at the top galler- having a uniquely pastoral ies in Chelsea (p142). exhibitions from the Himala- moment on the thin strand yas and beyond at the Rubin of green along the High 3 Walking through Wash- Museum of Art (p137). Line (p132) as it soars above the gridiron. ington Square Park (p135), 5 Sipping lattes alfresco pausing under the signature arch, then loitering at the on cobblestone corners fountain to eavesdrop on and browsing the latest gossiping NYU kids. boutiques in the West Village. 000000000000000000000000000 W 30th St W 29th St Broadway Fifth Ave E 30th St Second Ave W 28th St Madison Ave E 28th St First Ave Ninth Ave W 27th St Park Ave S W 26th St Eighth Ave Lexington Ave W 24th St W 25th St Sixth Ave (Avenue of the Americas) 0000000M00S00000aqP00dau00riaskroen E 24th St W 23rd St E 23rd St CHELSEA 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000C0200#Mh0ae.5lrsk1W#meWeWait2lH1e2ú#12sku80MnmdttdhEhsPDoPASSSaBneITtrtltrSerkRPCeyTWWWchAiSkvRrtieCes111Irt74r5CKoStttptThIhhhNeSSWSWrWGtBSttWt1Ve12C3d9IWH14f5#thLt#oshohaLrEtdurSASSSlsSttttGtoTtonEnSSttGSPSRUWV0Q0rO0ENi0I0n0UL0HEH0I3c0B#LA0NO0oO0e0Al0RueWN00S0G0seE0t0ItcEECoknH9erStUShqStnuStGiaotrREneAP1S6AMNptEERhEOrEEEi1KHRnSLA3G11gCotI1tS4RThtuSYEtThAAshStE7EEStMVtEtSo5Eth1I3EntLt1sr2hS8R1tLdS0ttSACS1htSt1ttYGht1SESt1t Tenth Ave Greenwich St Broadway First Ave West Side Hwy Fifth Ave Lafayette St Fourth Ave HuRdisvoenr e# 0 Chrystie St 0 Greene St LITTLE ITALY For more detail of this area see Map p420 and p424A

Explore West Village, Chelsea 131 & the Meatpacking District Lonely Planet’s There’s a very good reason why this area is known as the Top Tip Village: it actually looks like one! Quaint, quiet lanes carve their way between brown-brick townhouses offering end- It’s perfectly acceptable to less strolling for locals appreciating good weather, or tour- arm yourself with a map (or ists coming to see what all the fuss is about. The Village is rely on your smartphone) to indeed picturesque, and the best way to uncover its treas- get around the West Village’s ures is to simply have a wander. When your feet grow tired charming-but-challenging of negotiating the cobbled streets, plunk yourself down at side streets. Even some a cafe with a frothy cappuccino or a glass of wine. locals have a tricky time finding their way! Just re- Stroll through the Meatpacking District – once filled member that 4th St makes a with slaughterhouses and now brimming with sleek bou- diagonal turn north – break- tiques and roaring nightclubs – to reach Chelsea just to ing away from usual east- the north. Chelsea bridges the gap between the West Vil- west street grid – and you’ll lage and Midtown, importing bits and bobs from both. quickly become a Village pro. It’s the de facto neighborhood for the city’s sociable gay community, and its broad avenues are lined with breezy 5 Best Places cafes, themed bars and sweaty clubs. The neighborhood’s to Eat massive gallery scene can be found in the West 20s. ¨¨Jeffrey’s Grocery (p145) West Village, Chelsea & the Meatpacking District  Local Life ¨¨Gansevoort Market ¨Eighth Ave brunch If you’re a dude looking to meet (p148) (or at least look at) other dudes, but the cruisey bar scene isn’t your style, then opt for the weekend brunch ¨¨RedFarm (p147) scene along Eighth Ave. You’ll spot piles of friendly ¨¨Chelsea Market (p148) Chelsea boys drinking their hangovers off in tight jeans ¨¨Blue Hill (p147) and even tighter T-shirts. ¨West Village cafes The quizzes and surveys can’t be For reviews, see p139A wrong – the West Village is the most desirable residential neighborhood in Manhattan, so do as the locals do and 6 Best Places make the most of this quaint district stacked to the brim to Drink with cute cafes. Grab a book and a latte and hunker down for a blissful afternoon of people-watching. ¨¨Employees Only (p149) ¨Gallery hopping Join the fashionable, art-minded ¨¨Buvette (p150) crowds at the latest gallery shows in Chelsea. Thursday ¨¨Frying Pan (p153) night, when some galleries have openings (and free ¨¨Smalls (p154) wine), is a good time to roam. ¨¨Duplex (p156) Getting There & Away For reviews, see p149A ¨Subway Sixth Ave, Seventh Ave and Eighth Ave are 7 Best graced with convenient subway stations, but public Bookshops transportation slims further west. Take the A/C/E or 1/2/3 lines to reach this colorful clump of neighborhoods ¨¨Printed Matter (p160) – disembark at 14th St (along either service) if you’re looking for a good place to make tracks. ¨¨Strand Book Store (p157) ¨Bus Try M14 or the M8 if you’re traveling across town and want to access the westernmost areas of Chelsea ¨¨Three Lives & Company and the West Village by public transportation. It’s a (p158) shame, however, to use the bus or a taxi to get around the West Village – the charming cobblestone streets are ¨¨Posman Books (p160) perfect for a stroll. For reviews, see p157A

THE HIGH LINE It’s hard to believe that the High Line – a shining DON’T MISS PISAPHOTOGRAPHY / SHUTTERSTOCK © example of brilliant urban renewal – was once a dingy rail line that anchored a rather unsavory district of ¨¨The amphitheater- slaughterhouses. Today, this eye-catching attraction style viewing platforms is one of New York’s best loved green spaces, drawing at 17th and 26th Sts visitors far and wide who come to stroll, sit and picnic ¨¨Spencer Finch’s art 30ft above the city, while enjoying fabulous views of installation The River Manhattan’s ever-changing urban landscape. That Flows Both Ways between 15th and 16th Industrial Past Sts The tracks that would one day become the High Line were PRACTICALITIES commissioned in the 1930s when the municipal govern- ment decided to raise the street-level tracks after years ¨¨Map p420 of accidents that gave Tenth Ave the nickname ‘Death ¨¨%212-206-9922 Avenue.’ The project drained over $150 million in funds ¨¨www.thehighline.org (equivalent to around $2 billion by today’s dime) and took ¨¨Gansevoort St roughly five years to complete. After two decades of ef- ¨¨admission free fective use, a rise in truck transportation led to the even- ¨¨h7am-11pm Jun-Sep, tual decrease in usage, and finally, in the 1980s, the rails to 10pm Apr, May, Oct & became obsolete. Petitions were signed by local residents Nov, to 7pm Dec-Mar to remove the eyesores, but in 1999 a committee called ¨¨gM11 to Washington the Friends of the High Line – founded by Joshua David St; M11, M14 to Ninth Ave; and Robert Hammond – was formed to save the rusting M23, M34 to Tenth Ave, iron and transform the tracks into a unique elevated green bL, A/C/E to 14th St- space. Eighth Ave; C/E to 23rd St-Eighth Ave A Green Future On a warm spring day in 2009, the High Line – full of blooming flowers and broad-leaved trees – opened to the public, the first of three phases that today link the

133 Meatpacking District and Midtown. Section 1 starts GASTRONOMIC W e s t Vi ll ag e , C h e l se a & th e M e atpack i n g D is tri c t T h e H i g h L i ne at Gansevoort St and runs parallel to Tenth Ave up DELIGHTS to W 20th St. Full of sitting space in various forms – from giant chaises longues to bleacher-like benching – The High Line invites the first part quickly became the setting for various various gastronomic public works and activities, many geared towards establishments from the neighborhood’s growing population of families. around the city to set Two years later, Section 2 opened, adding another 10 up vending carts and blocks of green-ified tracks. The final section opened stalls so that strollers in 2014. Here the High Line meanders from 30th up can enjoy to-go items to 34th St, going up to and around the West Side Rail on the green. Expect a Yards in a U-like fashion. As it veers west toward showing of the finest Twelfth Ave, the path widens, and you have open coffee and ice-cream views of the Hudson, with the rusting, weed-filled establishments during rail road tracks running alongside the walkway (the the warmer months. designers wanted to evoke the same sense of over- grown wilderness in the heart of the metropolis that PUBLIC ART greeted visitors who stumbled upon the tracks prior to the park’s creation). This section also features a In addition to being dedicated children’s play area – a jungle gym made a haven of hovering up of exposed beams covered in a soft play surface. green, the High Line is also an informal art To reach the High Line, there are numerous stair- space featuring a vari- ways along the park, including Gansevoort, 14th, ety of installations, both 16th, 18th, 20th, 23rd, 26th, 28th, 30th and 34th Sts. site-specific and stand- There are also strategically placed elevators at Gan- alone. For detailed sevoort, 14th, 16th, 23rd, 30th and 34th. information about the public art on display at More than just a Public Space the time of your visit, check out www.art. The High Line’s civic influence extends far be- thehighline.org. yond being the trendsetter in the island’s re- greenification. As the West Village and Chelsea continue to embrace their new-found residential nature, the High Line is making a dedicated move towards becoming more than just a public place but an inspired meeting point for families and friends. As you walk along the High Line you’ll find staff- ers wearing shirts with the signature double-H, logo who can point you in the right direction or offer you additional information about the converted rails.

CHELSEA MARKET In a shining example of redevelopment and preservation, DON’T MISS BORIS-B / SHUTTERSTOCK © the Chelsea Market has transformed a former factory ¨¨Takumi into a shopping concourse that caters to foodies. ¨¨Lobster Place National Biscuit Company ¨¨The High Line out back The long brick edifice occupied by Chelsea Market was built in the 1890s to house a massive bakery complex that became the headquarters of the National Biscuit Company (makers of Saltines, Fig Newtons and Oreos). The market, PRACTICALITIES which opened in the 1990s, is now a base camp for gourmet outlets and apparel boutiques. ¨¨Map p424 ¨¨www.chelseamarket. com Foodie Hub More than two dozen food vendors ply their temptations ¨¨75 Ninth Ave, at 15th St including Mokbar (ramen with Korean accents), Takumi tacos (mixing Japanese and Mexican ingredients), Tuck ¨¨h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, Shop (Aussie-style savory pies), Bar Suzette (crepes), Num 8am-8pm Sun Pang (Cambodian sandwiches), Ninth St Coffee (perfect lattes), Doughnuttery (piping hot mini-donuts) and L’Arte ¨¨bA/C/E to 14th St; L to Eighth Ave de Gelato (rich ice cream). If you’re after something more indulgent, linger over a meal at the Green Table, which serves farm-fresh organic ingre- dients; sample the first-rate seafood and raw bar at Cull & Pistol; or stop by Friedman’s Lunch for upscale American comfort food. Beyond the Cuisine Browse the various nonfood offerings at Imports from Marrakesh, which specializes in Mo- roccan art and design; check out the latest literary hits at Posman Books; search for a new outfit or home accessory at Anthropologie; or pick up a bottle at the expert-staffed Chelsea Wine Vault. The market only takes up the lower part of a larger, million-sq-ft space, occupy- ing a full city block, which is the current home of TV channels the Food Network, Oxygen Network, Google offices and NY1, the local news channel. Cellists and bluegrass players fill the main walkway with music, and the new High Line passes right by the rear of the building.

135 WASHINGTON SQUARE PARK What was once a potter’s field and a square for public DON’T MISS executions is now the unofficial town square of the Village. Encased in perfectly manicured brownstones ¨¨Stanford White Arch and gorgeous twists of modern architecture (all ¨¨Central fountain owned by NYU), Washington Square Park is one of the ¨¨Greek Revival most striking garden spaces in the city – especially as houses surrounding you are welcomed by the iconic Stanford White Arch the park on the north side of the green. History PRACTICALITIES Although quite ravishing today, Washington Square Park ¨¨Map p420 had a long and sordid history before finally blossoming ¨¨Fifth Ave at Washing- into the paradigm of public space we see today (thanks ton Sq N largely to a $30 million renovation completed in 2014). ¨¨bA/C/E, B/D/F/M to W 4th St-Washington Sq; When the Dutch settled Manhattan to run the Dutch N/R to 8th St-NYU East India Company, they gave what is now the park to their freed black slaves. The land was squarely between the Dutch and Native settlements, so, in a way, the area acted as a buffer between enemies. Though somewhat marshy, it was arable land and farming took place for around 60 years. At the turn of the 19th century, the municipality of New York purchased the land for use as a burial ground straddling the city’s limit. At first the cemetery was mainly for indigent workers, but the space quickly reached capacity during an outbreak of yellow fever. Over 20,000 bodies remain buried under the park today. By 1830 the grounds were used for military parades, and then quickly transformed into a park for the wealthy elite who were constructing lavish townhouses along the surround- ing streets. Stanford White Arch The iconic Stanford White Arch, colloquially known as the Washington Square Arch, dominates the park with its 72ft of beaming white Dover marble. Originally designed in wood to celebrate the centennial of George Washington’s inauguration in 1889, the arch proved so popular that it was replaced with stone six years later and adorned with statues of the general in war and peace. In 1916 artist Marcel Duchamp famously climbed to the top of the arch by its internal stairway and declared the park the ‘Free and Independent Republic of Washington Square.’ A Political Stage Washington Square Park has long provided a stage for political activity, from local pro- tests against proposed changes to the shape and usage of the park, to issues of national importance such as the 1912 protests for better working conditions. In 2007, Democratic Party candidate Barack Obama led a rally here to drum up support for his successful presidential bid. Turnout was, unsurprisingly, overwhelming.

136 Arts, where top-notch dance, theater, mu- sic, spoken-word and other performers wow 1 SIGHTS audiences at the 850-seat theater. NYU’s academic offerings are highly regarded and 1 West Village & the wide-ranging, especially its film, theater, Meatpacking District writing, medical and law programs. For a unique experience that will put you on the oTHE HIGH LINE PARK fast track to meeting locals, sign up for a weekend or one-day class – from American See p132. history to photography – offered by the School of Professional Studies and Continu- oWASHINGTON SQUARE PARK PARK ing Education, and open to all. See p135. oWHITNEY MUSEUM GRACE CHURCH CHURCH OF AMERICAN ART MUSEUM Map p420 (%212-254-2000; www.gracechurch Map p420 (%212-570-3600; www.whitney.org; 99 nyc.org; 802 Broadway, at 10th St; h10am-5pm, Gansevoort St; adult/child $22/free; h10:30am- 6pm Mon, Wed & Sun, to 10pm Thu-Sat; bL to services daily; bN/R to 8th St-NYU; 6 to Astor Pl) This Gothic Revival Episcopal church, Eighth Ave) After years of construction, the designed in 1843 by James Renwick Jr, Whitney’s new downtown location opened to much fanfare in 2015. Perched near the was made of marble quarried by prisoners at ‘Sing Sing,’ the state penitentiary in the foot of the High Line, this architecturally town of Ossining, 30 miles up the Hudson stunning building – designed by Renzo Pi- ano – makes a suitable introduction to the River (which, legend has it, is the origin of W e s t Vi ll ag e , C h e l se a & th e M e atpack i n g D is tri c t S i g h ts the expression ‘being sent upriver’). After museum’s superb collection. Inside the spa- years of neglect, Grace Church has been cious, light-filled galleries, you’ll find works by all the great American artists, includ- beautifully restored. It’s now a National Landmark, whose ing Edward Hopper, Jasper Johns, Georgia elaborate carvings, towering spire and ver- O’Keeffe and Mark Rothko. In addition to rotating exhibits, there is a dant, groomed yard are sure to stop you in your tracks as you make your way down biennial on even-numbered years, an ambi- this otherwise ordinary stretch of the Vil- tious survey of contemporary art that rarely fails to generate controversy. lage. The stained-glass windows inside are stunning, and the soaring interior makes a perfect setting for the frequent organ and NEW YORK UNIVERSITY UNIVERSITY choir concerts. Free guided tours are of- Map p420 (NYU; %212-998-4550; www.nyu.edu; fered at 1pm on Sundays. information center 50 W 4th St; bA/C/E, B/D/F/M to W 4th St-Washington Sq; N/R to 8th St-NYU) In 1831 Albert Gallatin, formerly Secretary of ABINGDON SQUARE SQUARE the Treasury under President Thomas Jef- Map p420 (Hudson St, at 12th St; bA/C/E to 14th St; L to Eighth Ave) This historical dot on the ferson, founded an intimate center of higher landscape (just a quarter-acre) is a lovely learning open to all students, regardless of race or class background. He’d scarcely rec- little patch of green, home to grassy knolls, beds of perennial flowers and winding blue- ognize the place today, as it’s swelled to a stone paths, as well as a popular Saturday student population of around 50,000, with more than 16,000 employees, and schools green market. It’s a great place to enjoy a midday picnic or rest after an afternoon of and colleges at six Manhattan locations. wandering the winding West Village streets. It just keeps growing, too – to the dismay of landmark activists and business owners, After getting horizontal, look up at the southern end of the park and you’ll see the who have seen buildings rapidly bought Abingdon Doughboy, a bronze statue dedi- out by the academic giant (or destroyed through careless planning, such as with cated to servicemen from the neighborhood who gave their lives in WWI (when soldiers the historic Province­town Playhouse) and were commonly known as ‘doughboys’). replaced with ugly dormitories or adminis- trative offices. Still, some of its crevices are charming, such as the leafy courtyard at PIER 45 OUTDOORS its School of Law, or impressively modern, Map p420 (W 10th St, at Hudson River; b1 to Chris- topher St-Sheridan Sq) Still known to many as like the Skirball Center for the Performing the Christopher Street Pier, this is an 850ft-

137 HUDSON RIVER PARK DON’T MISS The High Line may be all the rage these days, but one ¨¨Kayaking on the block away there stretches a five-mile-long ribbon of river green that has dramatically transformed the city over the ¨¨Sunset strolls past 10 years. Covering 550 acres, and running from Bat- ¨¨Summertime tery Park at Manhattan’s southern tip to 59th St in Midtown, drinks at Frying Pan the Hudson River Park is Manhattan’s wondrous backyard. The long riverside path is a great spot for running, strolling PRACTICALITIES and cycling, and the Waterfront Bicycle Shop (Map p420; %212-414-2453; www.bikeshopny.com; 391 West St, btwn W 10th ¨¨Map p420 & Christopher Sts; rental per 1/4hrs $13/25; h10am-7pm; b1 ¨¨www.hudsonriver to Christopher St) is a convenient place to rent bikes; several park.org boathouses (p104) offer kayak hire and longer excursions for the more experienced. There’s also beach volleyball, W e s t Vi ll ag e , C h e l se a & th e M e atpack i n g D is tri c t S i g h ts basketball courts, a skate park and tennis courts. Families with kids have loads of options including four sparkling new playgrounds, a carousel (off W 22nd St) and minigolf (Pier 25 off West St near N Moore St). Those who simply need a break from the city come here to loll on the grass, while those seeking something less sedate can join the sangria- and sun-loving crowds at the dockside Frying Pan (p153). The park is also a fine spot to come and watch the sunset. And, of course, on the Fourth of July, there’s no better place in the city to be. long finger of concrete, spiffily renovated regions. Its impressive collections include with a grass lawn, flowerbeds, a comfort embroidered textiles from China, metal station, an outdoor cafe, tented shade shel- sculptures from Tibet, Pakistani stone ters and a stop for the New York Water Taxi. sculptures and intricate Bhutanese paint- ings, as well as ritual objects and dance Now part of the Hudson River Park, it’s masks from various Tibetan regions, span- a magnet for downtowners of all stripes, ning from the 2nd to the 19th centuries. from local families with toddlers in daylight to mobs of young gay kids who flock here Rotating exhibitions have included the at night from all over the city (and beyond) enlightening ‘Red Book of CJ Jung’ and thanks to the pier’s long-e­ stablished history ‘Victorious Ones,’ which comprised sculp- as a gay cruising hangout. The spot offers tures and paintings of Jinas, the founding sweeping views of the Hudson and cool, re- teachers of Jainism. The Cafe Serai serves lieving breezes in the thick of summer. traditional Himalayan foods and features live music on Wednesday nights, from 5pm 1 Chelsea onwards. Later in the week, the cafe trans- forms into the K2 Lounge, where you can CHELSEA MARKET MARKET sip wine and martinis after visiting the gal- See p134. leries on free Friday evenings. oRUBIN MUSEUM OF ART GENERAL THEOLOGICAL GALLERY SEMINARY RELIGIOUS SITE Map p424 (%212-620-5000; www.rmanyc.org; Map p424 (%212-243-5150; www.gts.edu; 440 W 21st St, btwn Ninth & Tenth Aves; h10am-5:30pm 150 W 17th St , btwn Sixth & Seventh Aves; adult/ Mon-Fri; bC/E to 23rd St) F Founded in child $15/free, 6-10pm Fri free; h11am-5pm Mon & Thu, to 9pm Wed, to 10pm Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; 1817, this is the oldest sem­inary of the Epis- b1 to 18th St) The Rubin is the first museum copal Church in America. The school, which in the Western world to dedicate itself to sits in the midst of the beautiful Chelsea his- the art of the Himalayas and surrounding toric district, has been working hard lately to

138 Sixth Ave (Avenue of the Americas)W 11th St E 11th St Waverly PlGreenwich Ave Fifth Ave E 10th St Seventh Ave #5 GREENWICH W 4th St VILLAGE Bleecker St W 11th St St #3 Christopher St E 9th St Perry West Waverly Pl Charles St E 8th St W Washington Pl 10th St ¦##4 W 4th St- Washington Sq W New York Washington Sq E Christopher St- Washington Sq Wa00s00h000N0Pi000n00ea0W0000g0w0rW00000a0kt00#000o0Ya0s0700000hn0so000000h0ir0000n'0S0€k00i000n0g0q000000g00t0000o00t00000o00n0000U00n00000S00n00000Sq00i000v0q0000Se000N0r0s00i0ty Sheridan Sq ¦# W 4th St University WEST W 3rd St VILLAGE Christopher St Hudson St #2 #6 Grove St Bleecker St Minetta LaMacDougal St CommBearrcreoSwtSt Thompson St Cornelia St &~ Seventh Ave #1 Bedford St Bleecker St Morton St e# 0 0 200 m 0.1 miles 22Neighborhood Walk Make a right on W 4th St until you reach It Takes a VillagHoeu¦#ston St 4Christopher Park, where two white, START COMMERCE ST life-sized statues of same-sex couples stand END WASHINGTON SQUARE PARK guard. On the north side of the green space is LENGTH 1 MILE; ONE HOUR the legendary Stonewall Inn, where a clutch of fed-up drag queens rioted for their civil rights Of all the neighborhoods in New York City, in 1969, signaling the start of what would be- Greenwich Village is the most pedestrian- come the gay revolution. Follow Christopher St friendly, with its cobbled corners that stray from the signature gridiron that unfurls across to Sixth Ave to find the 5Jefferson Market the rest of the island. Start your walkabout at Library straddling a triangular plot of land. The the 1Cherry Lane Theater (p156). Estab- ‘Ruskinian Gothic’ spire was once a fire lookout tower. In the 1870s the building was used as lished in 1924, the small theater is the city’s a courthouse but today it houses a branch of longest continuously running off-Broadway the public library. Stroll down Sixth Ave tak- establishment, and was the center of crea- ing in the flurry of passersby, then make a left tive activity during the 1940s. Make a left on on Minetta Lane to swing by 6Cafe Wha?, Bedford and you’ll find 290 Bedford on the the notorious institution where many young right-hand side at the corner of Grove St. You musicians and comedians – such as Bob Dylan might recognize the apartment block as the and Richard Pryor – got their start. End your fictitious home of the cast of Friends (sadly, wandering further along MacDougal St in Central Perk was just a figment of the writers’ imaginations). For another iconic TV landmark, 7Washington Square Park (p135), the wander up Bleecker St and make a right on Village’s unofficial town square, which plays Perry St, stopping at 366 Perry St, which host to loitering NYU students, buskers and a regular crowd of protestors chanting about was used as the facade and stoop of the city’s various global and municipal injustices. ‘It Girl’, Carrie Bradshaw, in Sex and the City.

make sure it can preserve its best asset – the 139 garden-like campus snuggled in the middle of its full block of buildings – even as Chelsea cobblestone of the Village. New York is no development sprouts up all around it. longer a second-string city when it comes to great coffee. Celebrated brewmasters, This peaceful haven is the perfect spot for bringing technical wizardry and high- finding respite, either before or after your quality single-source coffee beans, have neighborhood gallery crawl. To visit, ring the reinvented the simple cup of joe. For buzzer at the garden gate, located halfway experiencing a mix of both classic and down 21st St between Ninth and Tenth Aves. cutting-edge cafes, the West Village is a great place to start. CHELSEA HOTEL HISTORIC BUILDING Map p424 (222 W 23rd St, btwn Seventh & Eighth 5 West Village & the Aves; b1, C/E to 23rd St) This red-brick hotel, Meatpacking District built in the 1880s and featuring ornate iron balconies and no fewer than seven plaques declaring its literary landmark status, has MOUSTACHE MIDDLE EASTERN $ played a major role in pop-culture history. Map p420 (%212-229-2220; moustachepitza. com; 90 Bedford St, btwn Grove & Barrow Sts; It’s where the likes of Mark Twain, Thomas mains $10-17; hnoon-midnight; b1 to Christopher Wolfe, Dylan Thomas and Arthur Miller hung out; Jack Kerouac allegedly crafted St-Sheridan Sq) Small and delightful Mous- tache serves up rich, flavorful sandwiches On the Road during one marathon session (leg of lamb, merguez sausage, falafel), here, and it’s where Arthur C Clarke wrote 2001: A Space Odyssey. thin-crust pizzas, tangy salads and hearty specialties such as ouzi (filo stuffed with Dylan Thomas died of alcohol poison- chicken, rice and spices) and moussaka. The W e s t Vi ll ag e , C h e l se a & th e M e atpack i n g D is tri c t E at i ng ing while staying here in 1953, and Nancy Spungen died here after being stabbed by best start to a meal: a platter of hummus or baba ghanoush, served with fluffy, pip- her Sex Pistols boyfriend Sid Vicious in ing hot pitas. It’s a warm, earthy space with 1978. Among the many celebs who have logged time living at the Chelsea are Joni copper-topped tables and brick walls. Mitchell, Stanley Kubrick, Dennis Hopper, PEACEFOOD VEGAN $ Edith Piaf, Bob Dylan and Leonard Cohen, whose song ‘Chelsea Hotel’ recalls a romp Map p420 (%212-979-2288; www.peacefoodcafe. com; 41 E 11th St, btwn University Pl & Broadway; with Janis Joplin (who spent time here, too). mains $12-18; h10am-10pm; v; b4/5/6, L, Sadly, the hotel’s days of artistry and in- trigue are long gone. At the time of writing N/Q/R to Union Sq-14th St) Eating vegan can be a pretty powerful way to do good for the a developer was converting the property environment and one’s health (not to men- into a luxury hotel, set to open in late 2016. tion abstaining from the often cruel busi- ness of animal agriculture). That said, cut- ting back on meat is a lot easier when you 5 EATING can dine at places like Peacefood, with its tasty pizzas, roasted vegetable dishes, pan- While the West Village is known for its seared dumplings and other delicacies. classy, cozy and intimate spots, the adjacent Meatpacking District’s dining UMAMI BURGERS $ scene is a bit more ostentatious, complete with nightclub-like queues behind velvet Map p420 (%212-677-8626; www.umamiburger. ropes, bold decor and swarms of trend- com; 432 Sixth Ave, btwn 9th & 10th Sts; burgers obsessed patrons. Chelsea strikes a $10-15; h11:30am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri balance between the two with a brash & Sat; b1 to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq; F/M to assortment of très gay eateries along 14th St; L to Sixth Ave) That mysterious fifth the uber-popular Eighth Ave (a must taste sensation will be more than satisfied for see-and-be-seen brunch), and more at this stylish burger bar. Combos such as cafes lining Ninth Ave further west. In the Truffle (truffled aioli and housemade the warmer months expect windows and truffle cheese) and the bacon-topped Man- doors to fling open and plenty of alfresco ly are first-rate as is the veg-friendly Black seating to spill out onto the streets, Bean. With creative cocktails, microbrews be they the concrete of Chelsea or the on draft and tasty sides (including beet sal- ad and tempura onion rings), you’re clearly not in the burger land of your childhood.

1 40 ©Lone- DENNIS K JOHNSON / GETTY IMAGES © 1. Washington Square 3. The Spotted Pig (p148) Park (p135) Enjoy a hearty meal at this Michelin- People-watch in the Village’s starred Village favorite. unofficial town square. 4. Pier 45 (p136) 2. Rubin Museum of Art Take in the views of the Hudson (p137) at Pier 45 (aka the Christopher Check out this museum dedicated Street Pier). to the art of the Himalayas.

141 STEVEN GREAVES / GETTY IMAGES © LONELY PLANET / GETTY IMAGES © LONELY PLANET / GETTY IMAGES ©

142 Twelfth Ave (West Si de H W 25th St #æ1 W 24th St #æ2 #æ#3 W 24th St Chelsea London WaPtearrskide W 24th StEleventh Ave Terrace High Line W 23rd St wy ) W 23rd St Tenth Ave Hudson CHELSEA #ú4 River 22 CLohcealsl 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#00æS0008000t0t0t00i00t00#oæ#0h070n0Stof #æ#5 #þ6 W 22nd St the W 21st St (EWleevsetnStihdAevHewy) e# 0 0 200 m 0.1 miles art galleries in entire city. Most lie in the 20s, on the blocks between Tenth and Eleventh Aves, and openings for their new shows are typically held on Thursday evenings. Pick up Art Info’s Gallery Guide (with map) available for free at most galleries, or visit www.westchelseaarts.com. 1 Pace Gallery 9300; www.gladstonegallery.com; 515 W 24th St, btwn Tenth & Eleventh Aves; h10am-6pm In a dramatically transformed garage, the Tue-Sat; bC/E, 1 to 23rd St) has learned a Pace Gallery (Map p424; %212-929-7000; thing or two in her 30 years in the Manhat- www.pacegallery.com; 534 W 25th St, btwn Tenth tan art world. Ms Gladstone consistently & Eleventh Aves; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat; bC/E to puts together the most talked-about and 23rd St) has worked with some of the leading well-critiqued displays around. artists of recent years including Sol LeWitt, David Hockney, Chuck Close and Robert 4 Refuel, Spanish-Style Rauschenberg. It has three locations on W 25th St, and one in Midtown. Wielding Spanish tapas amid closet-sized sur- rounds, Tía Pol (p148) is the real deal, as the 2 Gagosian hordes of swarming locals can attest. The Gagosian (Map p424; %212-741-1111; www. 5 Matthew Marks gagosian.com; 555 W 24th St; h10am-6pm Tue- Sat; bC/E to 23rd St) offers a different vibe from Famous for exhibiting big names such as most of the one-off galleries, as it’s part of a Jasper Johns and Ellsworth Kelly, Matthew constellation of showrooms that spreads well Marks (522 W 22nd St) is a true Chelsea pio- across the globe. Also check out the 21st St neer. There are three other nearby locations location, which easily rivals some of the city’s (on 22nd and 24th Sts) besides this one. museums with its large-scale installations. 6 192 Books 3 Barbara Gladstone This small delightful bookshop (p159) makes The curator of the eponymous Barbara a fine reprieve from the big gallery experi- Gladstone Gallery (Map p424; %212-206- ence. Inside, you’ll find an edifying selection of

143 DOMINIQUE ANSEL KITCHEN BAKERY $ Map p420 (%212-242-5111; dominiqueanselkitch- W e s t Vi ll ag e , C h e l se a & th e M e atpack i n g D is tri c t E at i ngen.com; 137 Seventh Ave, btwn Charles & W 10th Sts; pastries $4-8; h9am-9pm; b1 to Christopher St- LONELY PLANET / GETTY IMAGES © Sheridan Sq) The famed creator of the cronut owns this small sun-lit bakery in the West Village where you can nibble on perfectly flaky croissants, raspberry passion-fruit pav- lova, blueberry shortcake and many other heavenly treats (but no cronuts). There’s also light savory fare such as turkey pot pie with foie gras gravy and edamame avocado toast. The stadium-style seating allows you to peak into the kitchen and see the chefs whipping up the creamy desserts. TAÏM ISRAELI $ Map p420 (%212-691-1287; www.taimfalafel. com; 222 Waverly Pl, btwn Perry & W 11th Sts; sandwiches $7-8; h11am-10pm; b1/2/3, A/C/E to 14th St) This tiny joint whips up some of the best falafels in the city. You can order them Green (traditional style), Harissa (with Tunisian spices) or Red (with roasted pep- pers). Whichever you choose, you’ll get them Gagosian stuffed into pita bread with creamy tahini sauce and a generous dose of Israeli salad. literary works covering many genres, plus There are also mixed platters, zesty sal- artist monographs and children’s books. ads and delicious smoothies (try the date, lime and banana). 7 Paula Cooper OTTO ENOTECA PIZZERIA PIZZA $ An icon of the art world, Paula (Map p424; %212-255-1105; www.paulacooper Map p420 (%212-995-9559; www.ottopizzeria. gallery.com; 534 W 21st St, btwn Tenth & com; 1 Fifth Ave, near 8th St; pizzas $9-15; Eleventh Aves; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat; bC/E h11:30am-midnight; v; bA/C/E, B/D/F/M to to 23rd St) was one of the first to move W 4th St-­Washington Sq) Just north of Wash- from SoHo to Chelsea. She continues to ington Square Park, this is a refreshingly push boundaries and draw crowds, as affordable part of Mario Batali’s empire, a she did for her 2011 exhibition The Clock pizza palace where thin pizzas are cooked when the gallery stayed open 24 hours a on flat-iron griddles till they crackle per- day on weekends. fectly. They come topped with items far be- yond your standard pizza joint – asparagus, 8 David Zwirner goat’s cheese, egg, fresh chilies, capers, the best fresh mozzarella – and sauce that has One of the major players in the art world, the perfect balance of smoky and sweet. David Zwirner (Map p424; %212-517-8677; Pasta dishes (for just 11 bucks!) veer to- www.davidzwirner.com; 537 W 20th St, btwn ward the exotic, such as penne with Tuscan Tenth & Eleventh Aves; h10am-6pm Tue- kale, dried lemon and walnuts. And don’t Sat; bC/E to 23rd St) opened a five-story, even think of leaving without trying the LEED-certified gallery with 30,000 sq ft of housemade gelato. exhibition space in 2013. He stages some of New York’s best gallery shows. Infinity HAMILTON’S LUNCHEONETTE AMERICAN $ Mirrored Room was a major recent event Map p420 (www.hamiltonsoda.com; 51 Bank St, at which drew three-hour lines to see Yayoi W 4th St; mains $7-16; h6am-midnight Mon-Sat, Kutsuma’s otherworldly light installations. to 11pm Sun; bA/C/E, 1/2/3 to 14th St) Like a He also has a location at 525 W 19th St. blast from the past, this quaint soda foun- tain and luncheonette channels 1940s New York with bow-tie–wearing clerks, plates of

144 W e s t Vi ll ag e , C h e l se a & th e M e atpack i n g D is tri c t E at i ng PARK IN THE SKY Robert Hammond, co-founder of Friends of the High Line, talks about what, in his opinion, makes the ‘park in the sky’ and its surrounding neighborhood so special. High Line Highlights To me, the West Village is a reminder of New York’s industrial past and residential future. What I love most about the High Line are its hidden moments, like at the Tenth Ave cut-out near 17th St. Most people sit on the bleachers, but if you turn the other way you can see the Statue of Liberty far away in the harbor. Architecture buffs will love looking down 18th St, and up on 30th is my favorite moment – a steel cut-out where you can see the cars underneath. Stop-Offs For lunch near the High Line, I recommend Hector’s Café & Diner (Map p420; %212- 206-7592; 44 Little W 12th St; mains $7-12; h2am-10pm Mon-Sat; bA/C/E to 14th St; L to Eighth Ave). It’s cheap, untouristy and not at all a see-and-be-seen spot – the cookies are great. If you’re in the area, you have to visit the galleries in Chelsea – there are over 300, and check out Printed Matter (p160), with its artist-made books. For an evening out on the town, head to the Boom Boom Room at the Top of the Standard (p152) – go early and book ahead. Family-Friendly Activities The High Line is also great for children with scheduled programming for kids on Sat- urdays and Wednesdays. corned beef and cabbage, and frothy egg and wander down the street to Abingdon creams. Never mind that it opened in 2014, Square for alfresco dining. Hamilton’s is a fine dose of nostalgia in a city ever on the cusp of reinvention. SAIGON SHACK VIETNAMESE $ Map p420 (%212-228-0588; saigonshacknyc. com; 114 MacDougal St, btwn Bleecker & 3rd Sts; THELEWALA INDIAN $ Map p420 (%212-614-9100; thelewalany.com; 112 mains $7-10; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri MacDougal St, btwn Bleecker & W 3rd Sts; rolls $4- & Sat; bA/C, B/D/F/M to W 4th St) Steaming 6; h11:30am-2am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; bA/ bowls of pho (noodle soup), tangy báhn mì C/E, B/D/F/M to W 4th St) This small, rockin’ (baguette) sandwiches and crunchy spring place serves up Calcutta-style street food: rolls await at this bustling wood-lined eat- delicious rolls filled with the likes of minced ery just a few strides from Washington lamb, paneer cheese, crispy okra and other Square Park. The prices are fair and the ingredients. There are also chaats (savory food arrives in a hurry; the only downside: snacks) and dishes such as chickpea curry. you might have to wait for a table, as it’s a Seating options – just a few stools at the popular draw for the NYU crowd. counter – are limited, so get it to go and de- vour your rolls (you’ll want more than one) GROUNDED ORGANIC in nearby Washington Square Park. COFFEE & TEA HOUSE CAFE $ Map p420 (%212-647-0943; www.groundedcof fee.com; 28 Jane St; sandwiches $7-9; h7:30am- BONSIGNOUR SANDWICHES $ Map p420 (%212-229-9700; 35 Jane St, at Eighth 9pm; v; bA/C/E, L to 14th St) We won’t blame Ave; sandwiches $8-10; h7:30am-10pm Mon-Sat, you for having flashbacks to your ’90s to 8pm Sun; bL to Eighth Ave; A/C/E, 1/2/3 to grunge look when you step into this coffee- 14th St) Nestled on a quiet Village street, this house, which seems to have been encased shop offers dozens of delicious sandwich in amber since Reality Bites. In addition to choices as well as salads, panini, empanada brag-worthy coffee blends and loose teas, and desserts. Get a roasted turkey with brie Grounded also serves up wraps (scrambled sandwich or a chicken curry salad to go eggs, vegan tofu) for breakfast, and salads

and tasty sandwiches (try the portobello 145 with gorgonzola) for lunch. hype. In a vaguely farmhouse-like setting, diners tuck into generous portions of house- VICTORY GARDEN ICE CREAM $ made pastas, rich salads, and cheese and sa- lumi (cured meat) boards. Current favorites Map p420 (%212-206-7273; www.victorygarden include the acqua pazza (seafood stew) and nyc.com; 31 Carmine St, btwn Bleecker & Bed- smoked lamb with roasted vegetables. ford Sts; ice cream $4-7; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; bA/C/E, B/D/F/M to W 4th St) If Some of the produce is grown in-house, you’ve never tried goat’s milk ice cream, or rather over the house, with a state- you’re in for a treat. This small, charm- of-the-art roof garden producing crisp ing cafe doles out delectable soft-serve dandelion greens, plump zucchinis and ice cream in flavors such as salted cara- mouth-watering tomatoes. Plan for crowds mel, chocolate made from Mexican stone- (no reservations) or arrive early. ground cocoa, and seasonal selections CAFE CLUNY BISTRO $$ (including watermelon, lemon poppy and Map p420 (%212-255-6900; www.cafecluny.com; roasted plum). The flavors change weekly, 284 W 12th St; mains lunch $15-32, dinner $29-35; with four or so available each day. h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm & 5:30-11pm Sat & Sun; bL to Eighth Ave; A/C/E, 1/2/3 to 14th PIZZA $ St) Café Cluny brings the charm of Paris to JOE’S PIZZA Map p420 (%212-366-1182; www.joespizzanyc. the West Village, with woven bistro-style com; 7 Carmine St, btwn Sixth Ave & Bleecker St; slices from $3; h10am-4am; bA/C/E, B/D/F/M bar chairs, light wooden upholstery, and a selection of joie-de-vivre-inducing platters to W 4th St; 1 to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq or such as wagyu sirloin steak frites, white Houston St) No-frills pies are served up in- W e s t Vi ll ag e , C h e l se a & th e M e atpack i n g D is tri c t E at i ng discriminately to students, tourists and -wine–braised hake, pasta with porcini and chanterelle ragout, fragrant cheese plates, celebrities alike – everyone’s stopped by for mixed green salads and, for dessert, profit- a bite, from Kirsten Dunst to Bill Murray. eroles or housemade biscotti. oJEFFREY’S GROCERY MODERN AMERICAN $$ MORANDI ITALIAN $$ Map p420 (%646-398-7630; jeffreysgrocery.com; Map p420 (%212-627-7575; www.morandiny.com; 172 Waverly Pl, at Christopher St; mains $25-39; 211 Waverly Place, btwn Seventh Ave & Charles St; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 9:30am Sat & Sun ; b1 mains $18-38; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 10am to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq) A West Village Sat & Sun; b1 to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq) Run classic, Jeffrey’s is a lively eating and drink- by celebrated restaurateur Keith McNally, ing spot that hits all the right notes. Seafood Morandi is a warmly lit space where the hub- is the focus: there’s an oyster bar and beauti- bub of garrulous diners resounds amid brick fully executed seafood selections such as ra- walls, wide plank floors and rustic chande- zor clams with caviar and dill, whole roasted liers. Squeeze into a table for the full-meal dourade with curry, and seafood platters experience – hand-rolled spaghetti with lem- to share. Meat dishes come in the shape of on and parmesan; meatballs with pine nuts roasted chicken with Jerusalem artichoke, and raisins; and grilled whole sea bream. and a humble but juicy pastrami burger. You can also grab a seat at the copper- topped bar for wine, well-made cocktails The scene: exposed brick, oversized win- and lighter fare such as stuffed olives, dows, wood floors and a buzzing bar scene mixed antipasti and minestrone with pesto. that draws more drinkers than diners as the night wears on. Brunch is fantastic. COOKSHOP MODERN AMERICAN $$ From midnight to 1am on Thursday to Sat- urday nights, Jeffrey’s serves a late-night Map p424 (%212-924-4440; www.cookshopny. menu of grilled oysters, Old Bay fries and com; 156 Tenth Ave, btwn 19th & 20th Sts; mains other satisfying snacks. brunch $14-20, lunch $16-24, dinner $22-38; h8am-11:30pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat, 10am- 10pm Sun; bL to Eighth Ave; A/C/E to 23rd St) A ROSEMARY’S ITALIAN $$ Map p420 (%212-647-1818; rosemarysnyc.com; 18 brilliant brunching pit stop before (or after) Greenwich Ave, at W 10th St; mains $15-32; h8am- tackling the verdant High Line across the midnight Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; b1 to Chris- street, Cookshop is a lively place that knows topher St-Sheridan Sq) One of the West Village’s its niche and does it oh so well. Excellent hottest restaurants, Rosemary’s serves high- service, eye-opening cocktails (good morn- end Italian fare that more than lives up to the ing, bacon-infused BLT Mary!), a perfectly

146 rooms and truffle oil, chewy crust pizzas, baked breadbasket and a selection of inven- fennel and arugula salads, roasted cornish tive egg mains make this a favorite in Chel- hen, and tiramisu (of course) for dessert. sea on a Sunday afternoon. The focaccia bread basket, which arrives af- Dinner is a surefire win as well. There’s ter you sit down, is a nice touch. Cash only. ample outdoor seating on warm days. COTENNA ITALIAN $$ SNACK TAVERNA GREEK $$ Map p420 (21 Bedford St, btwn Downing & W Hou- Map p420 (%212-929-3499; www.snacktaverna. ston Sts ; mains $12-24; hnoon-midnight ; b1 to com; 63 Bedford St; small plates $12-14, large Houston St) Tucked away on a picturesque plates $22-28, lunch mains $15-18; h7:15am-11pm corner of the Village, this intimate, attrac- Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat, to 10pm Sun; bA/C/E, tively designed eatery is a favorite on date B/D to W 4 St; 1 to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq) night. It has a small menu of affordable So much more than your usual Greek res- pastas (from $12), bruschetta and grilled taurant, Snack Taverna eschews gyros for dishes, though you can also come for wine a seasonal selection of scrumptious small or cocktails and sharing plates, including plates to accompany the flavorful selection salumi and cheese boards. of market mains. The regional wines are worth a miss, but the Med beers are sur- CAFE MINERVA CAFE $$ prisingly refreshing. Map p420 (%212-242-4800; 302 W 4th St, btwn W 12th & Bank; mains $11-27; h8am-11pm; W; WESTVILLE MODERN AMERICAN $$ bA/C/E, 1/2/3 to 14th St; L to Eighth Ave) On Map p420 (%212-741-7971; westvillenyc.com; 210 a peaceful stretch of W 4th St, this neigh- W 10th St, btwn 4th & Bleecker Sts; mains $12-24; W e s t Vi ll ag e , C h e l se a & th e M e atpack i n g D is tri c t E at i ng borhood charmer makes a great setting for h11:30am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; a catch up with a friend or a fine spot to b1/2 Christopher St-Sheridan Sq; A/C/E, B/D/F, linger over a light meal (panini, mussels, M to W 4th St; 1/2/3 to 14th St) With four down- salads) when you’re solo. The small tables town locations, Westville has earned many and wrap-around marble-topped bar draws admirers for its reasonably priced market- a cappuccino-sipping and snacking crowd fresh fare. Set on a peaceful, tree-lined by day and wine drinkers by night. stretch of 10th St, the tiny West Village branch is a cozy setting for beer-battered ALTA TAPAS $$ fish and chips, kale salad and daily specials Map p420 (%212-505-7777; www.altarestaurant. such as almond-crusted trout or crispy but- com; 64 W 10th St, btwn Fifth & Sixth Aves; small plates $10-23; h5:30-11pm Mon-Thu, 5pm- termilk chicken sandwich. midnight Fri & Sat, 5:30-10:30pm Sun; bA/C/E, MURRAY’S CHEESE BAR CHEESE $$ B/D/F/V to W 4th St-Washington Sq) This gor- Map p420 (%646-476-8882; www.murrayscheese geous townhouse highlights the neighbor- bar.com; 246 Bleecker St; mains $12-26, cheese hood’s quaintness, with plenty of exposed platters $14-22; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sun, from 5pm brick, wood beams, flickering candles, mas- Mon; bA/C/E, B/D/F/M to W 4th St) Lovers of sive mirrors and romantic fireplace glows. fine cheeses no longer have to settle for take- A small-plates menu of encyclopedic pro- out orders from Murray’s famed West Vil- portions cures indecision with the likes of lage fromagerie. Gourmet mac and cheese, succulent lamb meatballs, roasted scallops melted cheese sandwiches, fondue and other with sunchoke puree, Japanese eggplant cheese-centric dishes dominate the menu at with feta, fried goat cheese, and braised this tile-lined eat-and-drinkery, though the short rib. The wine list is outstanding, too. cheese platters (especially the Cheesemon- gers Choice with five to eight cheeses, plus MALAPARTE ITALIAN $$ charcuterie items) are the things to order. Map p420 (%212-255-2122; www.malapartenyc. There’s a nicely curated wine list, and com; 753 Washington St, at Bethune St; mains $14-26; h7:30am-midnight Mon-Fri, from suggested wine pairings for the cheese platters. Brunch is served on weekends 10:30am Sat & Sun; bA/C/E to 14th St; L to Eighth from 11am. Ave) Tucked away on a peaceful stretch of the West Village, Malaparte is a charm- EMPELLÓN TAQUERIA MEXICAN $$ ing neighborhood trattoria serving simple, Map p420 (%212-367-0999; www.empellon. beautifully executed Italian dishes – gar- com; 230 W 4th St, at W 10th St; mains $14-26; ganelli (tubular pasta) with porcini mush- h11:45am-3pm Thu-Sun & 5:30-11pm daily; b1

to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq; A/C/E, B/D/F, M 147 to W 4th St; 1/2/3 to 14th St) Chef Alex Stupak Sheridan Sq) Occupying a cavernous garage has transformed the all-important avocado space with sweeping see-through doors into the most inventive and flavorful gua- that roll up and into the ceiling during the camole in town. He’s also dropped the ‘Tex’ warmer months, Barbuto slaps together a from Tex-Mex, creating imaginative south- delightful assortment of nouveau Italian of-the-border fare that is wholly elegant dishes such as pork loin with polenta and and beautifully presented. The white-brick apple, and bruschetta smeared with duck walls further accentuate the mural of lus- liver, pistachio and balsamic. cious red petals behind the bar. oBLUE HILL AMERICAN $$$ VEGAN $$ Map p420 (%212-539-1776; www.bluehillfarm. CAFE BLOSSOM com; 75 Washington Pl, btwn Sixth Ave & Washing- Map p420 (%646-438-9939; blossomnyc.com; ton Sq W; prix-fixe menu $88-98; h 5-11pm ; bA/ 41 Carmine St, btwn Bleecker & Bedford Sts; mains lunch $15-22, dinner $19-24; h11am-10:30pm C/E, B/D/F/M to W 4th St-Washington Sq) A place for slow-food junkies with deep pockets, Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; v; Blue Hill was an early crusader in the local- bA/C/E, B/D/F/M to W 4th St) This candlelit eatery serves first-rate organic vegan cui- is-better movement. Gifted chef Dan Barber, who hails from a farm family in the Berk- sine. The menu is small but features com- shires, Massachusetts, uses harvests from fort fare that puts tofu to creative uses in dishes such as ‘salmon’ tofu, seitan steak that land, as well as from farms in upstate New York, to create his widely praised fare. au poivre and flatbread pizza with sauteed Expect barely seasoned, perfectly ripe kale. There are also organic wines, beers and cocktails, plus luscious desserts. vegetables that highlight centerpieces W e s t Vi ll ag e , C h e l se a & th e M e atpack i n g D is tri c t E at i ng of cod in almond broth, Berkshire pork stewed with four types of beans, and grass- DOMINIQUE BISTRO FRENCH $$ fed lamb with white beans and new pota- Map p420 (%646-756-4145; www.dominique toes. The space itself, slightly below street bistro.nyc; 14 Christopher St, at Gay St; mains $21- 31; h8am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri-Sat; b1 level and housed in a landmark former speakeasy on a quaint Village block, is so- to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq) On one of the phisticated and serene. prettiest corners in the West Village you’ll find this airy space with soaring ceilings, oREDFARM oversized oil canvases and big windows for FUSION $$$ watching the city stroll past. Chef Dominick Map p420 (%212-792-9700; www.redfarmnyc. com; 529 Hudson St, btwn 10th & Charles Sts; Pepe serves classic French bistro fare: start mains $22-46, dim sum $10-16; h11am-2:30pm off with foie gras or escargots with parsley butter, before moving on to bouillabaisse, Sat & Sun, 5pm-11pm daily; bA/C/E, B/D/F/M to W 4th St; 1 to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq) duck cassoulet or vegetarian-friendly rata- RedFarm transforms Chinese cooking touille. You can dine to live music down- stairs in the cozy Piano Room. Check the into pure, delectable artistry at this small, buzzing space on Hudson St. Fresh crab website for the schedule. and eggplant bruschetta, juicy rib steak FATTY CRAB ASIAN $$ (marinated overnight in papaya, ginger and soy) and pastrami egg rolls are among the Map p420 (%212-352-3592; www.fattycrab.com; many creative dishes that brilliantly blend 643 Hudson St, btwn Gansevoort & Horatio Sts; mains $19-34; hnoon-11pm Sun-Wed, to midnight east with west. Other hits include the spicy crispy beef, pan-fried lamb dumplings and Thu-Sat; bL to Eighth Ave; A/C/E, 1/2/3 to 14th the grilled jumbo shrimp red curry. St) This small Malaysian-inspired joint is super hip and always teeming with locals Waits can be long, so arrive early as res- ervations are not accepted. who swing by in droves to devour fish cur- ries and pork belly accompanied by a signa- ture selection of cocktails. oFORAGERS CITY TABLE MODERN AMERICAN $$$ BARBUTO MODERN AMERICAN $$ Map p424 (%212-243-8888; www.foragerscity grocer.com; 300 W 22nd St, cnr Eighth Ave; mains Map p420 (%212-924-9700; www.barbutonyc. $25-36; h10:30am-2:30pm Sat & Sun, 5:30- com; 775 Washington St, btwn 12th & Jane Sts; mains $22-28; hnoon-3:30pm & 5:30-11pm; bL 10pm daily; v; bC/E, 1 to 23rd St) The own- ers of this excellent restaurant in Chelsea to Eighth Ave; A/C/E to 14th St; 1 to Christopher St- run a 28-acre farm in the Hudson Valley,

148 GANSEVOORT MARKET MARKET $ from which much of their menu is sourced. The menu, which showcases seasonal hits, Map p420 (www.gansmarket.com; 52 Gansevoort, changes frequently. Recent temptations btwn Greenwich & Washington Sts; mains $5-20; include squash soup with Jerusalem arti- h8am-8pm; bA/C/E to 14th St; L to Eighth Ave) chokes and black truffles, roasted chicken Inside a brick building in the heart of the with polenta, heritage pork loin, and the Meatpacking District, this sprawling mar- season’s harvest with toasted quinoa and a ket is the latest and greatest food emporium flavorful mix of vegetables. to land in NYC. Inside a raw, industrial Next door is the gourmet market, where space lit by skylights, several dozen gour- you can browse many goodies, from organic met vendors sling tapas, arepas, tacos, piz- produce to heavenly desserts. There’s also zas, meat pies, ice cream, pastries and more. a wine shop with reasonably priced bottles There’s a communal seating area, and from small producers. several food counters where you can sit around and watch the cooks in action while MINETTA TAVERN BISTRO $$$ munching your meal. Map p420 (%212-475-3850; www.minettata vernny.com; 113 MacDougal St; mains $22-36; JUN-MEN RAMEN $ hnoon-3pm Wed-Sun, 5:30pm-midnight daily; Map p424 (%646-852-6787; www.junmenramen. bA/C/E, B/D/F/M to W 4th St) Book in ad- com; 249 Ninth Ave, btwn 25th & 26th Sts; ra- vance, or come early to snag a table on a men $14-18; h11:30am-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Thu, weeknight, because Minetta Tavern is often to 11pm Fri & Sat; bC/E to 23rd St) This tiny, packed to the rafters. The snug red-leather ultra-modern ramen joint whips up delec- banquettes, dark-paneled walls with black- tably flavored noodle bowls, in variants of W e s t Vi ll ag e , C h e l se a & th e M e atpack i n g D is tri c t E at i ng and-white photos, and glowing yellow bistro pork shoulder, spicy miso or uni mushroom lamps will lure you in. The flavor-filled bis- (with sea urchin). Don’t skip the appetizers: tro fare – pan-seared marrow bones, roasted the yellowtail ceviche and barbecue pork free-range chicken, mussels and foie gras – buns are outstanding. Service is speedy, will have you wishing you lived upstairs. and it’s fun to watch the adroit prep team in action in the tiny kitchen at center stage. SPOTTED PIG PUB FOOD $$$ The wait can be long – go early to beat Map p420 (%212-620-0393; www.thespottedpig. the crowds. com; 314 W 11th St, at Greenwich St; mains lunch $17-26, dinner $22-36; hnoon-2am Mon-Fri, from TÍA POL TAPAS $$ 11am Sat & Sun; v c; bA/C/E to 14th St; L to 8th Map p424 (%212-675-8805; www.tiapol.com; Ave) This Michelin-starred gastro-pub is a 205 Tenth Ave, btwn 22nd & 23rd Sts; small plates favorite with Villagers, serving an upscale $5-14; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sun, from 5:30pm Mon; blend of hearty Italian and British dishes. bC/E to 23rd St) Wielding Spanish tapas Its two floors are bedecked with old-timey in closet-sized surrounds, Tía Pol is the trinkets that give the whole place an air of real deal, as the hordes of locals swarm- relaxed elegance. There are no reservations, ing the entrance can attest. There’s a great so there is often a wait for a table. Lunch on wine list and a tantalizing array of small weekdays is less crowded. plates: fried chickpeas, squid and ink with rice, cockles in white wine and garlic, and Navarran-style trout with serrano ham. 5 Chelsea It’s the perfect post-gallery-opening pit stop. Come on the early side to take your oCHELSEA MARKET best stab at grabbing one of the handful of MARKET $ tables in the back. Map p424 (www.chelseamarket.com; 75 9th Ave, btwn 15th & 16th Sts; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am- 8pm Sun; bA/C/E to 14th St) A factory former- CO PIZZA $$ ly owned by cookie giant Nabisco (creator Map p424 (%212-243-1105; www.co-pane.com; 230 Ninth Ave, at 24th St; pizza $17-21; h5-11pm of Oreo) is now an 800ft-long foodie haven. Mon, 11:30am-11pm Tue-Sat, 11am-10pm Sun; Taking the place of the old factory ovens that churned out massive numbers of bis- bC/E to 23rd St) Masterfully prepared pizza is served in trim wooden surrounds that cuits are eclectic eateries that fill the reno- have a Scandinavian farmhouse vibe. Ex- vated hallways of this food-lovers hub (for more on the market see p134). pect a faithful reproduction of the trade-