Lonely Planet New York City

299Bro o k ly n D r i n k i n g & N i g ht l i fe BROOKLYN MARKETS When the weekend arrives, Brooklynites are out and about, strolling the stoop sales and hitting the markets. Here are a few good places to unearth something unusual (and enjoy a good bite while you’re at it): ¨¨Brooklyn Flea Market (Fort Greene) (p280) On Saturdays from April to November, some 200 vendors sell their wares on the grounds of a school in Fort Greene. You’ll find antiques, records, vintage clothes, craft items and enticing food stalls stuffed with a smorgasbord of tasty treats. In winter, the market moves indoors, either in Williamsburg or Fort Greene (check website for details). ¨¨Brooklyn Flea (Williamsburg) (Map p440; www.brooklynflea.com; 50 Kent Ave btwn 11th & 12th Sts, h10am-5pm Sun Apr-Oct; bL to Bedford Ave; G to Nassau Ave) On Sundays in the summer and fall, you can get more market action at this large outdoor space at the East River Waterfront in Williamsburg. You’ll also find plenty of vintage furnishings, retro clothing and bric-a-bric, not to mention an array of lobster rolls, pupusas (corn tortillas filled with cheese, beans, meat or vegetables), tamales and chocolate. This area is also home to the popular Smorgasburg market on Saturdays in the summer, when food vendors from all over New York City descend on the area with tasty victuals. ¨¨Artists & Fleas (Map p440; www.artistsandfleas.com; 70 N 7th Ave, btwn Wythe & Kent Aves, Williamsburg; h10am-7pm Sat & Sun; bL to Bedford Ave) In operation since 2003, this is a popular artists, designers and vintage market in Williamsburg, where you can find an excellent selection of crafty goodness. ¨¨Grand Army Plaza Greenmarket (Map p444; Grand Army Plaza, Prospect Park West & Flatbush Ave; h8am-4pm Sat; b2/3 to Grand Army Plaza) Open on Saturdays year- round, this greenmarket is a good spot to put together an impromptu picnic before heading into Prospect Park. ¨¨Neighborhood Greenmarkets You’ll find other year-round greenmarkets at Brooklyn Borough Hall (downtown Brooklyn; b 2/3, 4/5 to Borough Hall) on Tues- day, Thursday and Saturday; Carroll Park (Carroll Gardens; b F, G to Carroll St) on Sunday; and Fort Greene Park (Fort Greene; b B, Q/R to DeKalb Ave) on Saturday. Check www.grownyc.org for other NYC greenmarkets. ACADEMY ANNEX MUSIC burg; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; bL to Bedford Ave) This is where the cool kids shop (%718-218-8200; academyrecordsnyc.word- for hooded sweatshirts, silk-screen T-shirts press.com; 85 Oak St, at Franklin St, Greenpoint; and slinky knit dresses. It may be a chain hnoon-8pm; bG to Greenpoint Ave) Serious vi- but this Brooklyn Industries has the cachet nyl vultures head to this Greenpoint mecca of actually being in Brooklyn. to browse bins stuffed full of rock, hip hop, jazz, blues, electronica and world music. DESERT ISLAND COMICS BOOKS 7 Dumbo Map p440 (www.desertislandbrooklyn.com; 540 Metropolitan Ave, btwn Union Ave & Lorimer St, Wil- liamsburg; hnoon-9pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; bL POWERHOUSE BOOKS BOOKS to Lorimer St; G to Metropolitan Ave) Desert Island Map p446 (%718-666-3049; www.powerhouse- books.com; 37 Main St, Dumbo; h10am-7pm Mon- is an indie comic-book shop located inside Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; W; bA/C to High St, F to a former bakery in Williamsburg. Inside, you’ll find hundreds of comics, graphic nov- York St) An important part of Dumbo’s cul- tural scene, Powerhouse Books hosts chang- els, local zines, prints and cards. It also sells ing art exhibitions, book-launch parties and original prints and lithographs by artists like Adrian Tomine and Peter Bagge. Good tunes weird and creative events in its 5000-sq-ft space. You’ll also find intriguing books on are provided by the turntable in back. urban art, photography and pop culture – all BROOKLYN INDUSTRIES CLOTHING imprints of its namesake publishing house. Map p440 (%718-486-6464; www.brooklynin- dustries.com; 162 Bedford Ave, at 8th St, Williams-

300 MODERN ANTHOLOGY CLOTHING DRY GOODS CLOTHING Map p446 (modernanthology.com; 68 Jay St, Map p442 (%718-855-4295; www.wpstorebrook- btwn Water & Front Sts, Dumbo; h11am-7pm Mon- lyn.com; 225 Smith St, cnr Butler St, Carroll Gardens; Sat, noon-6pm Sun; bF to York St; A/C to High St) hnoon-7pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; bF, G to Bergen For the rugged, city-dwelling (and not poor) St) The first American outpost of the Italian man, Modern Anthology has plenty of ap- boutique retailer WP Lavori sells durable peal. Among the finds: elegant but manly clothing that channels a rugged but classic leather satchels, brassy beer bottle openers style in its soft button-down shirts and ca- shaped like animal heads, woolly Pendleton ble-knit sweaters by Woolrich, fur-trimmed blankets, leather boots, soft cotton button- coats by Spiewalk, sleek Baracuta jackets and downs and well-fitting dark-denim jeans. made-to-last Blundstone boots. It’s set in an There’s also a branch on Smith St (near elegant brick-walled shop in Carroll Gardens. Dean St). BLACK GOLD MUSIC PS BOOKSHOP BOOKS Map p442 (%347-227-8227; www.blackgold- Map p446 (%718-222-3340; www.psbookshop- brooklyn.com; 461 Court St, btwn 4th Pl & Luquer nyc.com; 76 Front St, at Washington St, Dumbo; St, Carroll Gardens; h7am-3pm Mon, to 8pm Tue- h10am-8pm; bA/C to High St; F to York St) This Fri, 10am-9pm Sat, to 7pm Sun; bF, G to Carroll is a good used-book shop with a delightful St) Records, coffee, antiques and taxidermy selection of art monographs, street books, await you in this tiny addition to the ever- children’s books and vintage travelogues. expanding Carroll Gardens Court St scene. Sample vintage vinyl on the turntable from NATCHIE ART ARTS John Coltrane to Ozzy Osborne and enjoy Map p446 (www.natchieart.com; 141 Front St, at a damn good cup of coffee, ground and Pearl St, Dumbo; hnoon-7pm; bF to York St; A/C to High St) An Aussie expat living in NYC, brewed individually. Need a stuffed hyena from the Ozarks? Find one here. Natchie creates whimsical, art-naïf prints of city icons, like the Brooklyn Bridge, the High NO RELATION VINTAGE THRIFT STORE Bro o k ly n D r i n k i n g & N i g ht l i fe Line, the Empire State Building and the Lit- Map p442 (%718-858-4906; norelationvintage. erary Walk in Central Park. As a bonus, each com; 654 Sackett St, btwn Third & Fourth Aves; print also features a free download of a song – hnoon-8pm; bD, N/R to Union St) This gigan- inspired by the image – written and per- tic vintage shop in the Gowanus area has formed by Natchie. a staggering inventory with great deals for bargain hunters. 7 Boerum Hill, Cobble 7 Park Slope & Hill, Carroll Gardens & Prospect Heights Gowanus DRY GOODS ACCESSORIES BEACON’S CLOSET Map p442 (%718-403-0090; 362 Atlantic Ave, (PARK SLOPE) THRIFT STORE btwn Hoyt & Bond Sts; hnoon-7pm Tue-Sun; Map p444 (%718-230-1630; 92 Fifth Ave, cnr Warren St, Park Slope; hnoon-9pm Mon-Fri, bA/C, G to Hoyt-Schermerhorn Sts) Strolling 11am-8pm Sat & Sun; b2/3 to Bergen St) An into this delightful little store, run by a mother and daughter team, is like stepping excellent thrift shop stocked full of shoes, jewelry and bright vintage finds. It is the back in time. The old wooden shelves and sister store of the bigger Beacon’s Closet in cabinetry are packed with curiosities. Vintage stationary and pencils, finely Greenpoint (p298). crafted Kent hairbrushes, papermaking kits FLIRT CLOTHING for kids, eggwhite soap from Belgium, 18th- century mouthwash (a reputed favorite of Map p444 (www.flirt-brooklyn.com; 93 Fifth Ave, btwn Park & Prospect Pls, Park Slope; h11:30am- Louis XV), Saint James meridian shirts (as 7:30pm; bB/D, N/Q/R, 2/3, 4/5 to Atlantic Ave/ worn by Brigitte Bardot and James Dean) and Legacy swing dresses are just a few Pacific St, G to Bergen St) The name says it all at this girlishly sexy Park Slope boutique, sell- items you’ll find here. The emphasis is on ing custom-made skirts (pick your cut and heritage brands – denoting well-made prod- ucts meant to last. fabric) and tiny tops in soft knits.

2 SPORTS & 301 ACTIVITIES PROSPECT PARK TENNIS CENTER TENNIS LAKESIDE SKATING, BOATING Map p444 (%718-436-2500; www.prospectpark. org/tennis; Prospect Park, cnr Parkside & Coney Map p444 (%718-462-0010; www.lakesidepro- Island Aves; h7am-11pm; bF to Fort Hamilton spectpark.com; Prospect Park, near Ocean & Pkwy; Q to Parkside Ave) Open all year, this Parkside Aves; ice-skating $6-9, skate rental $6; 11-court facility takes permits or sells h10am-6:30pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri, 11am-9pm single-use tickets on location from mid-May Sat, 11am-6:30pm Sun Nov-Mar; c; bB, Q to to mid-November. Hourly rates range from $40 to $84. Prospect Park) Two brand-new rinks (one RED HOOK BOATERS KAYAKING open and one covered) in Prospect Park opened in late 2013 as part of Lakeside Map p442 (www.redhookboaters.org; Louis Val- entino Jr Pier Park, Coffey St; h1-5pm Sun Jun- Center, a $74 million project which recon- Sep & 6-8pm Thu mid-Jun–mid-Aug; gB61 to figured 26 acres of parkland in a beauti- ful, ecofriendly showcase. In the summer, Van Dyke St, bF, G to Smith-9th Sts) F This boathouse, located in Red Hook, offers free kids can splash about in wading pools and kayaking in the small embayment off Louis sprinklers; the other rink features old- school roller skating. Valentino Jr Pier Park. Check the website for the latest times before making the trip out. In the summer, pedal boats and kayaks are available for leisurely rides on the lake. AREA YOGA CENTER YOGA BROOKLYN BOULDERS ROCK CLIMBING Map p442 (%718-797-3699; www.areayogabrook- lyn.com; 389 Court St, btwn 1st & 2nd Pl, Cobble Map p442 (www.brooklynboulders.com; 575 De- Hill; class $15; hclasses 7am-9pm Mon-Sat, to graw St, at Third Ave, Boerum Hill; day pass $28, shoe rental $6; h8am-midnight; bR to Union St) 5pm Sun; bF, G to Carroll St) Area offers a wide range of classes and has locations in Cobble It’s Brooklyn’s biggest indoor climbing arena Hill, Brooklyn Heights and Park Slope. for scaling aficionados and folks looking to reach new heights. Ceilings top out at 30ft inside this 18,000-sq-ft facility, and its caves ON THE MOVE CYCLING Bro o k ly n S ports & A ct i v i t i es and freestanding 17ft boulder and climbing Map p444 (%718-768-4998; www.onthe movenyc.com; 400 Seventh Ave, btwn 12th & 13th walls offer numerous routes for beginners to Sts, Park Slope; bike rentals per day (incl helmet) experts. There are overhangs of 15°, 30° and 45°. Climbing classes are available. $40; h2-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun; bF to 7th Ave) A couple of blocks south from Brooklyn’s Prospect Park, On the Move BROOKLYN BOWL BOWLING rents and sells all manner of bikes and gear. Map p440 (%718-963-3369; www.brooklynbowl. They are closed in inclement weather and com; 61 Wythe Ave, btwn 11th & 12th Sts, Wil- liamsburg; lane rental per hr $50, shoe rental $5; cut back hours from October to March. h6pm-2am Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun ; bL to BIKE AND ROLL CYCLING Bedford; G to Nassau Ave) This incredible alley is housed in the 23,000-sq-ft former Hecla Map p446 (www.bikenewyorkcity.com; Old Fulton St, Brooklyn Bridge Park; bike hire per 2hr/half-/ Iron Works Company, which provided orna- full day $12/39/44; h11am-7pm Mar-Nov; bA/C mentation for several NYC landmarks at the turn of the 20th century. There are 16 lanes to High St) Hire bikes here for a spin through Brooklyn Bridge Park (perhaps heading surrounded by cushy sofas and exposed down to Red Hook), around Dumbo or the brick walls. In addition to bowling, Brook- lyn Bowl hosts concerts throughout the uphill hoof to the very crowded Brooklyn Bridge. week, and there’s always good food on hand.

302 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Queens LONG ISLAND CITY | ASTORIA | JACKSON HEIGHTS | FLUSHING & CORONA | ELMHURST | WOODSIDE | MASPETH Neighborhood Top Five 1 Feeling inspired at the 2 Reliving your favorite 4 Taking a snack crawl Museum of Modern Art’s film and TV moments at cross-river sibling, MoMA the Museum of the Mov- through Latin America, via PS1 (p304). From paint- ing Image (p306), Astoria’s food trucks along melting- ing and sculpture to site- contemporary tribute to the pot Roosevelt Ave (p312). specific installations, this small and silver screens. cultural hub displays edgy, 5 Immersing yourself in world-class artwork, not 3 Getting soaked, pum- to mention lectures, per- bustling Asian street life and formances and an electric meled and pampered at New feasting on chewy Chinese summer party series. York Spa Castle (p316), noodles, plump dumplings Queens’ sprawling aquatic and plenty more in Flushing wonderland. (p306). Central Randalls Rikers st River PoCwoveells Cross Island Pk w y Park Island Island Willets Point Bl 3# Wards Hell Gate Ea PaFrifkthAvAeve Island Whi sto ne Expwy APstaorrkia vd 20th Ave Utopia Pkwy FluBsahying COLLEGE Q122111Nu112eoJHerG1AtnrEhaECsGIneLGKdB1rrManASHlvnsHOTBddt1SUNloCvrRedinaS1tTBra1llvL1doCn1gOR1IRsolOoasnCNedoMvFArEeleoulxtanMPspAdhawOLevoiaPyane2222wIadNkgsr222oe6TkwW92222LFttieahLBl222lkUooRe2222wSodtH222hNIMPJGNaoeerrGswramotneholderAUriCavn1111nlKeeBiAnioP111slvvtnasrde111111reTaknul11111arPn111111kpw1111ikye11 ASTORIA FDR Dr St 108th St Pkwy Junction Blvd Woodhaven Blvd 34th Ave21st 1 31st St 1 Roosevelt 1 5#Island 1 2#LONG Broadway 1 ns Blvd ISLAND 39th St 48th St East River 1# 4#JackCsoITnYAve BMlcvdGuiness 111 SUNNY1SID1E 1 A1ve1 11 1 1 1Ex1pw21 y1 21 2 Ave 164th St 1 1 21 2 een1p11oin1t s 1 -Queen 1 21 21 2 Gr 1 21 1 1 y1n NeCwrteoewkn1 21 21 2 Main St Bedford Ave Brookl 2 69th St Fresh Grand Ave 2 71st Ave 2 2 12 1 1 11 bFinorseosnt Pkwy 1 1 2 12 1 Me1trop1olit1an A1ve 1 22 Hillside Ave 1 R1IDG1EW1OOD 1 1 2 1 1111111 22 1 Pond 2 Van Wyck Expwy2 2 Broadway ve Flushing A 111 Jacki e R Rd o 1 1 M1 y2rt21le Av2e Park 2 Ave2 Ave 2 2 AJatmlaanictiac e# 0 2222 0 5 km 2 2 2 2 2.5 2mile2s 2 2 2 2 222222 A2 2 2 Fo2r m2ore d2etail of this area see Map p448 and p450

Explore Queens 303Queens  Of the city’s five boroughs, Queens is top dog in size and Lonely Planet’s runner-up in head count. Anywhere else, it would be a Top Tip major city in its own right. So where to begin? Don’t miss the Fisher Lan- Assuming it’s not Tuesday or Wednesday (when many dau Center for Art (p305) galleries are closed), start with a day in Long Island City, for free modern art without home to contemporary art hubs MoMA PS1, Sculpture- the crowds. Occupying an Center and the Fisher Landau Center for Art. Watch the old parachute-harness fac- sun set from Gantry Plaza State Park, and sip-and-sup tory in Long Island City, the on neighborly Vernon Blvd. core of its stellar collection of painting, photography, Spend a day or two exploring neighboring Astoria, sculpture and installations taste-testing a variety of eateries, sipping local brews, and spans from the 1960s to checking out the Museum of the Moving Image. If it’s sum- today. The rotating exhibi- mer, catch an alfresco film at Socrates Sculpture Park. tions feature works from A-listers such as Robert With its Hong Kong jumble of street foods, Asian gro- Rauschenberg, Cy Twombly ceries and kitschy malls, Flushing (home to NYC’s big- and Jasper Johns. gest Chinatown) also merits a full-day adventure. Time poor? Spend the morning on Main St and Roosevelt Ave, 5 Best Places then hit neighboring Corona for the Queens Museum or to Eat Louis Armstrong House. ¨¨Fu Run (p314) If it’s hot, tackle the surf at Rockaway Beach, home to ¨¨M Wells Dinette (p309) NYC’s coolest beach scene. ¨¨Pye Boat Noodle (p309) ¨¨Bahari (p312) Local Life ¨¨Roosevelt Ave (p312) ¨Hangouts Brew fans head to Astoria Bier & Cheese For reviews, see p309A (p315) for local suds, while hipsters sans attitude down single-origin joe at Queens Kickshaw (p315). 1 Best Places ¨Culture Take an aerial tour of NYC without ever to Escape the leaving the ground at the retro-cool Queens Museum Grind (p307). ¨Flushing Snack on lamb dumplings in the Golden ¨¨Rockaway Beach (p307) Shopping Mall (p314) basement, then ignite the palate at Hunan Kitchen of Grand Sichuan (p315) or Fu Run ¨¨New York Spa Castle (p314). (p316) Getting There & Away ¨¨Bohemian Hall & Beer Garden (p315) ¨Subway Twelve lines serve Queens. From Manhattan, catch the N/Q/R and M to Astoria, the 7 to Long Island ¨¨Gantry Plaza State Park City, Woodside, Corona and Flushing, and the A to (p305) Rockaway Beach. The E, J and Z lines reach Jamaica, while the G directly connects Long Island City to For reviews, see p305A Brooklyn. ¨Train Long Island Rail Road (LIRR) has a handy 1 Best for Culture connection from Manhattan’s Penn Station to Flushing. Vultures It also runs to Jamaica, for the AirTrain to JFK. ¨Bus Routes include the M60, which runs from ¨¨MoMA PS1 (p304) LaGuardia Airport to Harlem and Columbia University in Manhattan, via Astoria. ¨¨Museum of the Moving Image (p306) ¨¨Queens Museum (p307) ¨¨Fisher Landau Center for Art (p305) For reviews, see p305A

304 MOMA PS1 The smaller, hipper sibling of Manhattan’s Museum DON’T MISS of Modern Art, MoMA PS1 hunts down razor-sharp art and serves it up in an ex-school locale. Forget about ¨¨Temporary and long- lily ponds in gilded frames. Here you’ll be peering at term exhibitions videos through floorboards and debating the meaning ¨¨Summer ‘Warm Up’ of nonstatic structures while staring through a hole in parties the wall. Nothing is predictable. Best of all, admission ¨¨Sunday Sessions is free with your MoMA ticket. PRACTICALITIES Roots, Radicals & PS1 Classics ¨¨Map p448 PS1 first hit the scene in the 1970s. This was the age of Dia, ¨¨%718-784-2084 Artists’ Space and the New Museum – new-gen projects ¨¨www.momaps1.org showcasing the city’s thriving experimental, multimedia ¨¨22-25 Jackson Ave, art scene. In 1976, Alanna Heiss – a supporter of art in al- Long Island City ternative spaces – took possession of an abandoned school ¨¨suggested donation building in Queens and invited artists such as Richard Ser- adult/child $10/free, free ra, James Turrell and Keith Sonnier to create site-­specific with MoMA ticket, Warm works. The result was PS1’s inaugural exhibition, Rooms. Up party admission Surviving remnants include Richard Artschwager’s oval- online/at venue $18/20 shaped wall ‘blimps’ and Alan Saret’s light-channeling ¨¨hnoon-6pm Thu-Mon, The Hole at P.S.1, Fifth Solar Chthonic Wall Temple, on the Warm Up parties 3-9pm north wing’s 3rd floor. These works are part of the gal- Sat Jul & Aug lery’s long-term installations, which also include Pipilotti ¨¨bE, M to 23rd St-Court Rist’s video Selbstlos im Lavabad (Selfless in the Bath Sq, G, 7 Court Sq of Lava) – viewable through the lobby floorboards – and James Turrell’s awe-inspiring Meeting, where the sky is the masterpiece. (Though note this last work was closed for restoration at last visit.) Summer ‘Warm Up’ Parties On Saturday afternoon from July to early September, rock on at one of New York’s coolest weekly music/culture events, Warm Up. It’s a hit with everyone from verified hipsters to plugged-in music geeks, who spill into the MoMA PS1 courtyard to eat, drink and catch a stellar lineup of top bands, experimental music and DJs. Featured artists have included acid-house deity DJ Pierre and techno pioneer Juan Atkins. It’s like one big block party, albeit with better music and art than your usual neighborhood slap-up. Linked to it is the annual YAP (Young Architects Program) competition, in which one design team is selected to transform the museum courtyard with a large-scale structure that provides shade and a creative party space. Sunday Sessions Another cultural treat is the Sunday Sessions, on Sunday from September to May. Span- ning lectures, film screenings, music performances, even architectural projects, the lineup has included experimental comedy, postindustrial noise jams and Latin art-house dance. One week you might catch a symphony debut, the next an architectural performance from Madrid. Upcoming events are listed on the MoMA PS1 website.

1 SIGHTS 305 Exhibition each May – a highly respected The Queens Tourism Council (www. showcase for talented up-and-coming artists. itsinqueens.com) website offers information on attractions and events, NOGUCHI MUSEUM MUSEUM while the Queens Council on the Arts (Map p448; %347-505-3010; www. Map p448 (www.noguchi.org; 9-01 33rd Rd, Long queenscouncilarts.org; 37-11 35th Ave, Island City; adult/child $10/free, by donation 1st Astoria; bM, R to Steinway) promotes art Fri of the month; h10am-5pm Wed-Fri, 11am-6pm in the borough. For a more personalized Sat & Sun; bN/Q to Broadway) The art and introduction, Hunter College urban- the building here are the work of Japanese- Q u e e ns S ights geography professor Jack Eichenbaum American sculptor, furniture designer and leads many unusual walking tours landscape architect Isamu Noguchi, famous (p317) of Queens’ ethnic neighborhoods, for iconic lamps and coffee tables, as well as including a full-day walk/subway ride elegant abstract stone sculptures. They are along the 7 train line. on display here, in serene concrete galleries and a minimalist rock garden – a complete aesthetic vision and an oasis of calm. The building itself was once a photo- engraving plant, located across the street 1 Long Island City from Noguchi’s studio. Art aside, the space also hosts a small cafe and a gift shop, the It’s a testament to Queens’ long lack of latter stocking Noguchi-designed lamps cool that Long Island City remained un- and furniture, as well as a small range of developed for decades. Now it has masses other mid-20th-century design pieces. of new high-rise condominiums lining the riverfront with fantastic views of Man- SCULPTURECENTER GALLERY hattan. The area has also become a hub of art museums. PS 1 Contemporary Art Map p448 (%718-361-1750; www.sculpture Center is dedicated solely to new, cutting- -center.org; 44-19 Purves St, Long Island City; sug- edge works. On Saturdays from early July gested donation $5; h11am-6pm Thu-Mon; b7 to through September, the center’s outdoor 45th Rd-Court House Sq, E, M to 23rd St-Ely Ave, courtyard is transformed into an installa- G to Long Island City-Court Sq) Down a dead- tion art space and crammed with the high- end street, in a former trolley repair shop, est concentration of hipsters this side of the SculptureCenter pages Berlin with its edgy Mississippi. If the weather is pleasant, don’t art and industrial backdrop. Its hangarlike miss the waterside Socrates Sculpture Park, main gallery and cavernous underground with its outdoor exhibits of massive, climb- space show both emerging and established able sculptures by greats including Mark di artists. It’s always a worthwhile add-on to a Suvero, who founded the space. visit to nearby MoMA PS1. oMOMA PS1 SOCRATES SCULPTURE PARK ART See p304. GALLERY Map p448 (www.socratessculpturepark.org; 32- 01 Vernon Blvd, Long Island City; h10am-dusk; bN/Q to Broadway) F First carved out oFISHER LANDAU of an abandoned dump by sculptor Mark CENTER FOR ART MUSEUM di Suvero, Socrates is now a city park on Map p448 (www.flcart.org; 38-27 30th St, Long the river’s edge with beautiful views and a Island City; hnoon-5pm Thu-Mon; bN/Q to rotating series of installations. Try to time 39th Ave) F Surprisingly little visited, a visit with free events – such as yoga on considering the caliber of the work shown, weekends from mid-May to late September, this private collection is a must for fans of and Wednesday-night movies in July and modern and contemporary art. Whether it’s August. Cy Twombly, Jenny Holzer, Agnes Martin or any other big name in art in the last 50 GANTRY PLAZA STATE PARK PARK years, you’ll see their work on display in this Map p448 (www.nysparks.com/parks/149; 4-09 47th Rd, Long Island City; b7 to Vernon Blvd-­ converted factory building. Jackson Ave) This 12-acre riverside park Co-designed by late British architect Max Gordon (designer of London’s Saatchi Gal- ­directly across the water from the United Nations has gorgeous uninterrupted views of lery), the space also hosts the Columbia Uni- the Manhattan skyline. It’s nicely d­ esigned, versity School of Visual Arts MFA ­Thesis

306 GREATER ASTORIA with public lounges for panoramic chilling, and attracts a good mix of Queens families. HISTORICAL SOCIETY MUSEUM The restored gantries – in service until 1967 – are testament to the area’s past as a Map p448 (%718-278-0700; www.astorialic.org; loading dock for rail-car floats and barges. 35-20 Broadway, Astoria; hnoon-4pm Sat & by Dating back to 1936, the giant Pepsi-Cola appt; bN/Q to Broadway; M, R to Steinway) Get a sign at the park’s northern end is an icon of glimpse of old-time Astoria at this labor-of- Long Island City. It once topped a nearby love community space. There’s always some Pepsi bottling plant, which has been sinceQ u e e ns S ights exhibit of neighborhood ephemera, and the demolished. group hosts lectures and films as well. 1 Astoria 1 Jackson Heights Home to the largest Greek community out- JACKSON HEIGHTS side Greece, this is obviously the place to find amazing Greek bakeries, restaurants HISTORIC DISTRICT NEIGHBORHOOD and gourmet shops, mainly along Broad- way. An influx of Eastern European, Mid- (btwn Roosevelt & 34th Aves, from 70th to dle Eastern (Steinway Ave, known as ‘Little 90th Sts; b7 to 74th St-Broadway, E, F/M, R to Egypt,’ is the place for falafel, kebabs and Roosevelt Ave-Jackson Heights) Spread out in a hookah pipes) and Latino immigrants have 50-block area to the north of the subway is created a rich and diverse mix. A reminder one of the nicest NYC neighborhoods that that movie-making started in Astoria in the few New Yorkers know about. Following the 1920s, the American Museum of the Mov- 1909 opening of the 59th St-Q­ ueensboro ing Image exposes some of the mysteries of Bridge, the Jackson Heights Historic Dis- the craft with amazing exhibits and screen- trict was set up in 1917 as a ‘garden city’ ings in its ornate and recently renovated (popular in England at the time), with six- theater. In summer, cool off at the Astoria story, chateau-­style brick apartment build- Pool (p316), the city’s largest and oldest. ings sharing long, well-landscaped, private Much of the neighborhood, as well as cu- gardens. There are a few good vantage rious Manhattanites, can be found at the points – try 80th or 81st Sts from 37th to Bohemian Hall & Beer Garden (p315) dur- 34th Aves. ing warm afternoons and evenings. 1 Flushing & Corona oMUSEUM OF THE The intersection of Main St and Roosevelt MOVING IMAGE MUSEUM Ave, downtown Flushing, can feel like the Times Square of a city a world away from Map p448 (%718-777-6888; www.movingimage. NYC. Immigrants from all over Asia, pri- us; 36-01 35th Ave, Astoria; adult/child $12/6, marily Chinese and Korean, make up this 4-8pm Fri free; h10:30am-5pm Wed & Thu, to neighborhood bursting at the seams with 8pm Fri, 11:30am-7pm Sat & Sun; W; bM, R to markets and restaurants filled with de- Steinway St) This super-cool complex is one licious and cheap delicacies. The Long of the world’s top film, television and video I­sland Rail Road station and terminal for museums. Galleries show a collection of the 7 train see around 100,000 people pass 130,000-plus artifacts, including Eliza- through daily. Flushing Meadows Corona beth Taylor’s wig from Cleopatra, nearly Park (p308), meanwhile, is the home of Citi everything related to Seinfeld and a whole Field (p316), the USTA Billie Jean King Na- room of vintage arcade games. Interactive tional Tennis Center (p316) (the US Open displays – such as a DIY flipbook station – is held here every August) and many lakes, show the science behind the art. ball fields, bike paths and grassy expanses, You can also try your hand at film edit- and was used for the 1939 and 1964 World’s ing (including re-dubbing the ‘We’re not in Fairs, of which there are quite a few faded Kansas anymore’ scene from The Wizard leftovers – including Queens’ most famous of Oz), and get nostalgic over an impressive landmark, the stainless-steel Unisphere, booty of vintage TVs and cameras. The mu- standing 120ft high and weighing 380 tons. seum’s temporary exhibitions are usually Kids can learn about science and technol- fantastic,as are the regular film screenings – ogy through fun hands-on exhibits at the check the website for details. New York Hall of Science (p309); a quirky

307Q u e e ns S ights HITTING THE SHORE Immortalized by the Ramones’ 1977 song ‘Rockaway Beach,’ America’s largest urban beach – and one of the city’s best – is just a $2.75 trip on the A train from Manhat- tan. Less crowded than Coney Island and with a wilder feel, Rockaway Beach is a long stretch with two social hubs. On the west end, Jacob Riis Park, part of the 26,000-acre Gateway National Recreation Area, draws families and young professionals with cash to spend on the 90-minute ferry ride (Map p410; %718-474-0593; www.newyorkbeachferry.com; Pier 11; return adult/child $30/15; hSat, Sun & public holidays summer; b2/3 to Wall St, J/Z to Broad St, 1 to South Ferry, R to Whitehall St) from Lower Manhattan to Riis Landing. This area is also home to the cool green ruins of Fort Tilden, a decommissioned coastal artillery installation from WWI. On the east end, starting around Beach 108th St, is a burgeoning scene of hipsters, artists and locavore food options, fronting the city’s only designated surfing beaches (at Beach 92nd St and going east). On the boardwalk here, concrete concession booths peddle treats such as lobster rolls, ceviche and hipster pizza. Extending from near JFK international airport, the salty, marshy Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge covers the water north of the Rockaways’ barrier island. As one of the most important migratory bird and wetland habitats along the eastern seaboard, it attracts more than 325 bird species in spring and fall, as they snap up all sorts of briny sea creatures like clams, turtles, shrimp and oysters. Each season brings different visi- tors. Spring features warblers and songbirds, and American woodcocks in late March. In mid-August shorebirds start to move south, landing here from Canada and fueling up for the trip to Mexico. Fall is when migrating hawks and raptors get mobile, along with ducks, geese, monarch butterflies and thousands and thousands of dragonflies. Birders and naturalists get the most action around the east and west ponds. Although the west pond was breached during Hurricane Sandy, it is still possible to walk the roughly 1.5-mile perimeter of the east pond. Just make sure to wear mud-resistant shoes, insect repellent and sunscreen, carry some water and watch out for poison ivy. To get to the visitor center (%718-318-4340; www.nyharborparks.org; Cross Bay Blvd, Broad Channel; h9am-5pm; gQ53 to Cross Bay Blvd/Wildlife Refuge, bA/S to Broad Chan- nel) F, exit at Broad Channel station, walk west along Noel Rd to Cross Bay Blvd, turn right (north) and walk for 0.7 miles, and the center will be visible on the left side of the road. minigolf course is on the site. Also within home to the UN), and you’ll find a retro- this massive park is the Queens Museum. fabulous collection of memorabilia from both the ’39 and ’64 fairs on display (with QUEENS MUSEUM MUSEUM reproductions in the gift shop). Map p450 (QMA; www.queensmuseum.org; Flushing Meadows Corona Park, Queens; sug- LOUIS ARMSTRONG HOUSE BUILDING gested donation adult/child $8/free; hnoon-6pm Map p450 (%718-478-8274; www.louisarm Wed-Sun; W; b7 to 111th St or Mets-Willets Point) stronghouse.org; 34-56 107th St, Corona; adult/ The Queens Museum is one of the city’s child $10/7; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & most unexpected pleasures. Its most fa- Sun, last tour 4pm; b7 to 103rd St-Corona Plaza) mous installation is the Panorama of New At the peak of his career and with world- York City, a gob-smacking 9335-sq-ft min- wide fame at hand, legendary trumpeter iature New York City, with all buildings ac- Armstrong settled in this modest Queens counted for and a 15-minute dusk-to-dawn home, and lived there until his death in light simulation. The museum also hosts 1971. The place has been immaculately pre- top exhibitions of global contemporary art, served in groovy style, down to the dazzling reflecting the diversity of Queens. turquoise kitchen fixtures. Guided tours (45 The QM is housed in a historic building minutes) tell Armstrong’s story with audio made for the 1939 World’s Fair (and once clips and more.

308 Q u e e ns S ights QUEENS: THE NEW BROOKLYN Artist Julian Lesser gives the lowdown on his favorite New York borough (and why it should be your favorite, too). The Best Thing About Queens The cultural diversity. In Astoria alone you’ve got the original Greek population, plus everyone from Colombians and Brazilians to Egyptians. There’s even a ‘Little Egypt’ on Steinway Ave, between Astoria Blvd and 30th Ave, with great kebab shops and strong coffee. Much of Queens is pretty mixed these days, but Flushing is incredibly Asian. The result is a really authentic shopping experience, with massive Asian gro- cery stores selling exotic-looking fruits and every conceivable type of still-wriggling seafood. Planes fly low over Flushing, so it’s also cool if you’re a plane-spotter. Don’t-Miss Eats I love Brooklyn Bagel & Coffee Company (p312). It has amazing, huge bagels and a wide variety of cream cheeses. It creates a new flavor every week for its customers to try. Queens Kickshaw (p315) is also great, the team sourcing a lot of their ingredi- ents locally. In Long Island City, I love LIC Market. It’s like an intimate cafe but it does full service, and puts a lot of love into the food. It’s also handy if you’re visiting MoMA PS1. Cultural Picks For cutting-edge contemporary art, spend an afternoon at MoMA PS1 (p304) and the nearby SculptureCenter (p305) in Long Island City. You could easily spend a few happy hours at the impressive Museum of the Moving Image (p306) in Astoria – it’s a cool place to see props from classic films and TV shows. For a lesser-known treat, join one of the fascinating walking tours run by the Greater Astoria Historical Society (p306). Satchmo shared the house with his Black.) If entering the park from the north, fourth wife, Lucille Wilson, a dancer at the via the 7 train, look for the 1964 World’s Cotton Club. Armstrong’s den, of which he Fair mosaics by Salvador Dalí and Andy was most proud, features a portrait of the Warhol. Also nearby is Citi Field (p316), great painted by none other than Benedetto and the USTA Billie Jean King National (aka Tony Bennett). Tennis Center (p316). Head west over the Grand Central Pkwy to find a few more at- FLUSHING MEADOWS tractions, including the New York Hall of Science. The park has grounds, too, on its CORONA PARK PARK eastern and southern edges. The top-notch Astroturf soccer fields are popular for or- Map p450 (www.nycgovparks.org/parks/fmcp; ganized and pick-up soccer, and there’s a Grand Central Pkwy, Corona; b7 to Mets-­Willets pitch-and-putt golf course that’s lit up for Point) F Central Queens’ biggest at- drunken golfers at night. traction is this 1225-acre park, built for the 1939 World’s Fair and dominated by Queens’ most famous landmark, the stainless-steel Unisphere – it’s the world’s UNISPHERE MONUMENT biggest globe, at 120ft high and weighing Map p450 (Flushing Meadows Park; b7 to 111th 380 tons. Facing it is the former New York St or Mets-Willets Point) Designed for the 1964 City Building, now home to the fantastic World’s Fair, this 12-story-high stainless- Queens Museum (p307). steel globe is the focal point of Flushing Just south are three weather-worn, Cold Meadows Park, and the de facto icon of War–era New York State Pavilion Towers, Queens. In summer, it’s ringed with foun- part of the New York State Pavilion for the tains; at other times, it’s crisscrossed by 1964 World’s Fair. (You may recognize them skateboarders. as alien spaceships from the film Men in

NEW YORK HALL OF SCIENCE MUSEUM 309 Ely Ave, 7 to 45th Rd-Court House Sq) S Local Map p450 (%718-699-0005; www.nysci.org; creatives and office workers mix at this cool 47-01 111th St; adult/child $15/12, 2-5pm Fri & little cafe, trimmed in local artwork and 10-11am Sun free; h9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am- cooking pots. Breakfast winners include 6pm Sat & Sun; b7 to 111th St) Occupying a the ‘sausage and onions’ sandwich (fried weird 1965 building, rippling with stained eggs, breakfast sausage, cheddar and cara- glass, this science museum is unapologeti- melized onion), while ever-changing lunch cally nerdy. An outdoor minigolf course and and dinner options can include scallops, Q u e e ns E ating playground don’t require as much brain soulful risottos and seasonal game. power. M WELLS DINETTE CANADIAN $$ 5 EATING Map p448 (%718-786-1800; www.magasinwells. com; 22-25 Jackson Ave, Long Island City; mains Spanakopita? Khao man gai? Sopa de $9-29; hnoon-6pm Thu-Mon; bE, M to 23rd mariscos? If it exists, you can devour St-Court Sq, G, 7 Court Sq) Like being back at it in Queens. Head to Long Island City school (but with better grub), this cultish for locavore eateries, and to Astoria for nosh spot sits inside school-turned-m­ useum anything from Greek to bagels – hot MoMA PS1 (no need to pay museum admis- spots here include 30th Ave, Broadway sion). Desk-like tables face the open kitchen, (between 31st and 35th Sts) and 31st where Quebecois head chef Hugue Dufour Ave. Steinway Ave between Astoria Blvd gives regional ingredients a gutsy French- and 30th Ave is Astoria’s ‘Little Egypt.’ Canadian makeover: frisée salad with duck Further east, Elmhurst is home to a hearts, smoked egg and fried bread, for cluster of straight-outta-Bangkok Thai ­instance. options, while Roosevelt Ave is perfect for a Latin food-truck crawl. At the end M WELLS STEAKHOUSE STEAK $$$ of the 7 subway line lies Flushing, New York’s ‘Chinatown without the tourists.’ Map p448 (%718-786-9060; www.magasinwells. For a clued-in exploration of the com; 43-15 Crescent St, Long Island City; mains borough, join a World’s Fare Tours $27-70; h5:30-11pm Wed-Mon, also 11am-3pm (p316) adventure, run by food writer Joe Sun; bE, M to 23rd St-Court Sq, G, 7 to Court Sq) DiStefano. Celebrity chefs Eric Ripert Carnivores with a taste for the avant-garde and Anthony Bourdain have both sought will appreciate Quebecois chef Hugue Du- his wisdom. four’s surreal yet satisfying take on steak. Pork chops, grilled over a wood fire, arrive in stacks like pancakes; the tomahawk chop is an almost terrifyingly huge beef rib (ter- rifying too for its $160 price tag). Loud, 5 Long Island City exuberant ambience. Reserve on weekends. CANNELLE PATISSERIE BAKERY $ 5 Astoria Map p448 (%718-937-8500; 5-11 47th Ave, Long Island City; pastries $3; h6:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, from 7am Sat, 7am-5pm Sun; b7 to Vernon Blvd- oPYE BOAT NOODLE THAI $ Jackson Ave) A surprising source of flawless Map p448 (%718-685-2329; 35-13 Broadway, Astoria; noodles $10-13; h11:30am-10:30pm, to French pastry, this cafe sits on a slick block 11pm Fri & Sat; v; bN/Q to Broadway, M, R to in new-build LIC – but one bite of a flaky croissant or a gemlike fruit tart will take Steinway) An army of young Thai waitresses in matching fedoras greet you at this cute you straight to Paris. This is a branch of the place decked out like an old-fashioned original business, set in an even more un- likely location: a dreary strip mall in Jack- country house. The specialty is rich, star- anise-scented boat noodles, topped with son Heights. crispy pork cracklings. It also does delicate LIC MARKET CAFE $$ seafood yen ta fo (mild seafood soup, tinted Map p448 (%718-361-0013; www.licmarket.com; pink), a rarity in NYC. Good with a side of 21-52 44th Dr, Long Island City; lunch $9-12, din- papaya salad (off-menu request: add funky ner mains $15-36; h7am-3:30pm Mon, to 10pm fermented crab). Tue-Sat, 10am-3:30pm Sun; W; bE, M to 23rd St-

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311 JAMIE GRILL / GETTY IMAGES © JUMPER / GETTY IMAGES © BRUCE YUANYUE BI / GETTY IMAGES © 1. Queens (p302) landmark and the world’s largest Be entertained by street musicians globe, Unisphere (by Gilmore David in Queens. Clarke and further refined by Peter Muller-Munk Associates). 2. Rockaway Beach (p307) Surf at NYC’s best urban beach, 4. Gantry Plaza State famed for its natural scenery. Park (p305) Recline on public sunloungers and 3. Flushing Meadows enjoy uninterrupted views of the Corona Park (p308) Manhattan skyline. Visit Queens’ most famous

Q u e e ns E ating312 ROOSEVELT AVE FOOD TRUCKS When it comes to sidewalk grazing, it’s hard to beat Roosevelt Ave and its army of late-night Latino food trucks, carts and stalls. Just one stroll from 90th St to 103rd St will have you sipping on champurrados (a warm, thick corn-based chocolate drink), nibbling on a cemita (Mexican sandwich) and making a little more room for some Ecua- doran fish stew. It’s cheap, authentic and quintessentially Queens. Hungry? Then set off on a taste-testing mission of Roosevelt Ave’s best. On the south side or Roosevelt head for the intersection with Benham St. Here you’ll find the legendary food truck Tia Julia, justifiably famous for its cemitas ($9). A few steps further east along Roosevelt Ave lies food stall El Coyote Dormilon. The coyote might be snoozing, but the vendor is up and at it, busily turning masa from her bucket into warm, super-fresh tortillas. (Note: fresh masa and a tortilla press are a good sign at any stall.) Quesadillas ($3) are the specialty here – try the distinctive cuitlacoche (a mushroom that grows on corn) and quesillo (stringy, cow’s milk cheese) combo. It’s seriously fine. Keep rolling along Roosevelt Ave to Warren St. A major Warren St star is El Guaya­ quileño, famous for its Ecuadoran fish stew made of yuca, tuna, cilantro, onion, lemon, cumin and toasted corn kernels. It’s flavorsome, wonderfully textured and a meal in itself. That said, leave room for the bollos de pescado (mashed green plantain with tuna, steamed in a banana leaf and served with tomato and chopped onion; $10). ROSARIO’S PIZZA $ oBAHARI GREEK $$ Map p448 (%718-728-2920; 22-55 31st St, As- Map p448 (%718-204-8968; 31-14 Broadway, toria; slice $2; h8:30am-7:30pm Mon-Sat; v; bN/Q to Ditmars Blvd) Rosario’s is a fully Astoria; oven dishes $9-15, grilled meats $12-29; hnoon-midnight; v c; bN/Q to Broadway) stocked Italian deli, its meats and cheeses Many of Astoria’s Greek restaurants are dazzling in their own right. But its brilliant secret is its flawless, crisp-crust pizza, sold standard grill joints. Bahari branches out with the full range of casseroles and stews: by the slice, cheese only (don’t even bother moussaka with crusty-creamy bechamel, asking for toppings). It’s hidden at the back – ask the counterman if you don’t see velvety slow-cooked beans, spinach-flecked rice. A meal of these rich dishes is a bar- any in the display case. gain, especially in the elegant surround- The shop is a favorite of MTA staff on break (the N and Q trains end here). They ings. (Note: fish is pricier.) Excellent staff and plenty of room, compared with most favor big sandwiches and Rosario’s rice NYC restaurants. balls. MOMBAR EGYPTIAN $$ BROOKLYN BAGEL & Map p448 (%718-726-2356; 25-22 Steinway St, COFFEE COMPANY BAKERY $ Astoria; dishes $10-24; h5-10pm Tue-Sun; v; Map p448 (%718-204-0141; www.brooklynbagel bN/Q to Astoria Blvd) A legendary restaurant andcoffeecompany.com; 35-05 Broadway, As- toria; bagels $1.25; h6am-4:30pm; bN/Q to in the Steinway strip of Arab businesses, Mombar is worth a visit for the decor Broadway; M, R to Steinway St) It may be in alone – its collage style of found objects Queens, not Brooklyn, but there’s little con- fusion about the caliber of the bagels here. was assembled over years as chef Mustafa saved money to open the place. It’s a jewel- With a good crust and chewy inside, they box setting for his refined Egyptian food; come in a number of drool-inducing varia- tions, including sesame, onion, garlic, and definitely get his signature mombar, a light, rice-stuffed sausage. wholewheat with oats and raisins. Mix and match with a dazzling repertoire of fla- vored cream cheese, including wasabi lox KABAB CAFE EGYPTIAN $$ and baked apple. Map p448 (%718-728-9858; 25-12 Steinway St, Astoria; dishes $12-26; h1-5pm & 6-10pm Tue- Sun; v; bN/Q to Astoria Blvd) Chef Ali is a

313 larger-than-life personality and an anchor LITTLE TIBET TIBETAN $ on the Steinway strip known as Little Egypt – though his creative, earthy food, Map p448 (%718-505-8423; 72-19 Roosevelt often served straight from the frying pan Ave, Jackson Heights; dishes $6-11; hnoon-11pm; to your plate, ranges much farther than his b7 to 74 St-Broadway, E, F/M, R to Roosevelt Ave-­ Alexandrian roots. Start with mixed apps, Jackson Heights) Little Tibet could be the for fluffy green Egyptian-style falafel, then nickname for all of Jackson Heights, where pick any lamb dish. traditionally Indian shops and restaurants are slowly giving way to entrepreneurs from Q u e e ns E ating the Himalayas, both Tibet and Nepal. This VESTA TRATTORIA & WINE BAR ITALIAN $$ little place has exceptional neighborhood Map p448 (%718-545-5550; www.vestavino.com; loyalty and a cozy, wood-paneled atmos- 21-02 30th Ave, Astoria; pizzas $13-15, dinner mains phere. Wash down the momos (dumplings) $13-26; h5-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 11am-3pm with a huge list of Queens microbrews. & 4-11pm Sat, 11am-3pm & 4-10pm Sun; bN/Q to 30th Ave) Vesta is one of those neighborhood TIA JULIA MEXICAN $ secrets, with chatty regulars at the bar, lo- cal art on the walls and organic produce (Benham St, at Roosevelt Ave, Jackson Heights; from a Brooklyn rooftop farm. The menu is tacos $2.50, sandwiches $5-9; h10am-5am; b7 simple and seasonal, with nourishing zuppe to 90th St-Elmhurst Ave) Legendary food truck (soups), bubbling thin-crust pizzas and tasty Tia Julia is justifiably famous for its cemi- mains of mostly pasta and risotto dishes. tas, Mexican sandwiches stacked high with string cheese, chicken cutlet, chipotles and Star of the popular weekend brunch the refreshing herb pápalo. Its piled-high is the Hangover Pizza, with spicy tomato tacos are pretty impressive too. sauce, potatoes, pancetta and baked egg. EL GUAYAQUILEÑO ECUADORAN $ TAVERNA KYCLADES GREEK $$ (Warren St, btwn Roosevelt Ave & 40th Rd, Jack- Map p448 (%718-545-8666; www.taverna son Heights; dishes from $5; h8am-10.30pm kyclades.com; 33-07 Ditmars Blvd, Astoria; mains Sun-Thu, to around 4am Fri & Sat; b7 to Junction $15-30; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; Blvd) The best known of a cluster of Ecuado- bN/Q to Ditmars Blvd) Kyclades is tops when ran and Peruvian food carts on Warren St, it comes to Greek seafood – and repeat diner El Guayaquileño is famous for its fish stew Bill Murray agrees. Simple classics include made of yuca, tuna, cilantro, onion, cumin succulent grilled octopus and whole fish, and toasted corn. And save room for bollos backed up with saganaki (pan-fried cheese) de pescado (smashed green plantain with and a hearty salad. Skip the overpriced tuna, steamed in a banana leaf and served Kyclades Special, and go early to beat the with tomato and onion). daunting line. (Ironically, the Manhattan lo- cation, in the East Village, is less crowded.) EL COYOTE DORMILON MEXICAN $ (Roosevelt Ave, btwn Benham & Aske Sts, Jackson Heights; tacos $2.50, sandwiches $5; h­ 1-11pm 5 Jackson Heights Mon & Tue, to 4am Wed-Sun; b7 to 90th St-­ Elmhurst Ave) This tiny food cart has the whole range of Mexican snacks, from tacos AREPA LADY COLOMBIAN $ to gorditas. It offers one rarely seen item: Map p448 (%347-730-6124; 77-02 Roosevelt the pambazo, a pressed sandwich stuffed Ave, Jackson Heights; dishes $4-8; hnoon-11pm, to 1am Fri & Sat; v; b7 to 74 St-Broadway, E, F, with cheese, chorizo and potatoes. M, R to Roosevelt Ave-Jackson Heights) Many a street-food fanatic has made a pilgrimage to the sainted Arepa Lady, a legend of the 5 Elmhurst Roosevelt Ave late-night food carts. Her sons have opened this shoebox of a store- PLANT LOVE HOUSE THAI $ front, open during daylight hours, with the Map p448 (%718-565-2010; 86-08 Whitney Ave, Elmhurst; dishes from $5; hnoon-10pm; bM, same chewy, cheesy corn cakes that made R to Elmhurst Ave) Snug and adorable, this Mom famous. Bonus: black walls, a cool jazz soundtrack and enthusiastic local fam- ultra-Thai cafe serves authentically mod- est portions of incendiary soups (num tok, ily diners. enriched with pork blood, is a specialty) The address is on Roosevelt Ave, but the storefront is around the corner on 77th St. and improbably huge wedges of sweet toast

Q u e e ns E ating314 FARM LIFE Frolic with cows, sheep and goats at the Queens County Farm Museum (%718-347- 3276; www.queensfarm.org; 73-50 Little Neck Parkway, Floral Park; h10am-5pm; c; gQ46 to Little Neck Parkway), the last patch of farmland within the city limits. It’s a long way from Manhattan, but for anyone with an interest in urban agriculture – or kids who need a break from city energy – this is a tranquil destination. It hosts an annual pow- wow for tribes from all over America. soaked in butter. Maybe not a balanced Two must-tries are the lamb dumplings meal, but a satisfying and transporting one. from Xie Family Dishes (stall 38) – best dipped in a little black vinegar, soy sauce KHAO KANG THAI $ and chili oil – and the spicy cumin lamb burger at Xi’an Famous Foods next door. Map p448 (%718-806-1807; 76-20 Woodside Ave, Elmhurst; plate $8; h11am-9pm Tue-Sun; bE, F/M, R to Roosevelt Ave-Jackson Heights, 7 to 74 oTORTILLERIA NIXTAMAL St-Broadway) New-era Thai food at its best, MEXICAN $ where you can eat like a business-luncher in Map p450 (%718-699-2434; www.tortilleria nixtamal.com; 104-05 47th Ave, Corona; dishes Bangkok, pointing at two or three hot dishes $2.50-13; h11am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu – creamy-hot pumpkin with eggs and basil, caramelized pork, and more – to eat over & Sun, to 11pm Fri & Sat; b7 to 103rd St-Corona Plaza) The red-and-yellow picnic benches at rice. It’s fast and inexpensive, but doesn’t this lo-fi gem are never short of a roaming skimp on style. Desserts are a treat too. gastronome, here for super-authentic Mexi- can snacks. The secret weapon is the Rube Goldbergian machine, which transforms 5 Woodside additive-free masa into super-tasty tacos and tamales. SRIPRAPHAI THAI $$ The guys here are purists, their tacos Map p448 (%718-899-9599; www.sripraphai adorned with a simple garnish of cilant- restaurant.com; 64-13 39th Ave, Woodside; mains $9-23; h11:30am-9:30pm Thu-Tue; b7 to 69th ro, onion and lime. Other must-tries in- clude the pork-broth pozole soup, spiked St) The first restaurant in NYC to serve Thai with chopped onion, radish, oregano and food for Thai people, no punches pulled. In some ways it has been outpaced by newer, crushed red peppers. Cool down with a hor- chata fresca (a spiced rice and almond milk more single-minded restaurants (the menu drink) while cheering on El Tricolor. here is epic, from all over the country), but it is still a legend and a satisfying place for FU RUN CHINESE $ a big dinner of everything from curries to Map p450 (%718-321-1363; www.furunflushing. heavenly fried soft-shell crab. Cash only. com; 40-09 Prince St, Flushing; mains $9-24; h11:30am-midnight; b7 to Flushing-Main St) Fu Run has a cult following for very good 5 Flushing & Corona reason: its northeast Chinese cooking is extraordinary – rustic, sometimes subtle, oGOLDEN SHOPPING MALL always impeccably fried. Reconfigure your CHINESE $ understanding of the country’s flavors over Map p450 (41-28 Main St, Flushing; meals from sour cabbage–laced pork dumplings or the $3; h10am-9:30pm; b7 to Flushing-Main St) A chaot­ic jumble of hung ducks, airborne unforgettable Muslim lamb chop (deep- noodles and greasy Laminex tables, Golden fried ribs dressed in dried chilies, cumin Mall’s basement food court dishes up fan- and sesame seeds). tastic hawker-style grub. Don’t be intimi- dated by the lack of English menus. Most HUNAN KITCHEN OF stalls have at least one English speaker, and GRAND SICHUAN CHINESE $$ the regulars are usually happy to point out Map p450 (%718-888-0553; 42-47 Main St, Flushing; mains $10-24; h11am-12:30am; b7 to their personal favorites, whether it’s Lan- Flushing-Main St) Work up a sweat at this re- zhou hand-pulled noodles or spicy pig ears. spectable Flushing restaurant, best known

for its specialties from Hunan province. 315 Standout dishes include a deliciously salty lection inspired and surprising, with pair- white-pepper smoked beef, tender chicken ing plates available. with hot red pepper, and lovely warming fish soup. If you’re in a large group, order QUEENS KICKSHAW BAR the house specialty: BBQ duck, Hunan-style. Map p448 (%718-777-0913; www.thequeenskick shaw.com; 40-17 Broadway, Astoria; h7:30am- midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, 9am-1am Sat, to midnight Sun; W; bM, R to Steinway St) This 5 Maspeth Astoria hangout brings a little Brooklyn Q u e e ns D rinking & N ightlife to Queens, with reclaimed wood, indie folk tunes, and communal tables lined with BUN-KER VIETNAMESE $$ ­wi-fi–ing Macheads. Brainstorm over a (%718-386-4282; http://bunkervietnamese.com; single-origin brew, or loosen up with a craft 46-63 Metropolitan Ave, Maspeth; mains $14-26; h5-10pm Tue & Wed, to 11pm Thu & Fri, noon- ale or cider. The menu just happens to be vegetarian, with fantastic grilled sandwich- 11pm Sat, to 10pm Sun; gQ54 to Metropolitan es (try the Gouda, with black beans, guava Ave/Woodward Ave, bL to Jefferson St) NYC is short on good Vietnamese restaurants – so jam and pickled jalapeňos). it’s worth the adventure to head to this pas- STUDIO SQUARE BEER GARDEN sion project in fringiest Queens. (Nascent hipster ’hood Ridgewood is the nearest Map p448 (%718-383-1001; www.studiosquare beergarden.com; 35-33 36th St, Astoria; bM, R residential spot.) The owners have great to 36th St, N/Q to 36th Ave) A next-generation seafood connections and use best-quality meats, adding extra savor to dishes like gin- beer garden, this place might not have big trees or Old World ambience, but it makes ger catfish and short ribs with lemongrass. up for it with a massive beer menu, plenty of room to move and a Queens-inspired di- verse clientele. Special events range from 6 DRINKING & movie screenings to drag shows. NIGHTLIFE oBOHEMIAN HALL & 3 ENTERTAINMENT BEER GARDEN BEER GARDEN Map p448 (%718-274-4925; www.bohemianhall. oTERRAZA 7 LIVE MUSIC com; 29-19 24th Ave, Astoria; h5pm-1am Mon- Thu, to 3am Fri, noon-3am Sat, noon-midnight Sun; Map p448 (%718-803-9602; http://terraza7. com; 40-19 Gleane St, Elmhurst; h4pm-4am; bN/Q to Astoria Blvd) This Czech community b7 to 82nd St-Jackson Hts) Come to Queens center kicked off NYC’s beer-garden craze, and nothing quite matches it for space and for multicultural eats, then stay for equally diverse sounds at this cool bi-level perfor- heaving drinking crowds, which pack every mance space. It makes creative use of the picnic table under the towering trees in sum- mer. There’s obligatory food (dumplings, tiny room, setting the live band in a loft above the bar. Latin jazz is the mainstay, sausages); the focus is on the cold and foamy but performers can hail from as far as Czech beers. Some nights, folk bands set up (with occasional cover charge of $5 or so). ­Morocco. ASTORIA BIER & CHEESE BEER HALL CREEK AND THE CAVE COMEDY Map p448 (%718-545-5588; www.astoriabier Map p448 (%917-865-4575; www.creeklic.com; 10-93 Jackson Ave, Long Island City; h11am-2am andcheese.com; 34-14 Broadway, Astoria; Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; b7 to Vernon Blvd- hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun; bN/Q to Broadway, M, R to Stein- Jackson Ave) The biggest and best known of a handful of fringy comedy clubs in the neigh- way) At this funky bar-shop hybrid in As- borhood, the Creek and the Cave has two toria, you can foam that upper lip with 10 seasonal, mostly local drafts, or pick from stages, a Mexican restaurant, a chilled-out backyard and a bar with well-maintained hundreds of canned and bottled options, to pinball machines. With so much fun in one take home or swill on-site. Fromage fiend Mike Fisher (formerly of Williamsburg’s place, it’s no surprise the place is a kind of clubhouse for young comedy scenesters. Bedford Cheese Shop) keeps the cheese se-

316 take in five matches at once. Scan the USTA website in January/February for updates. 7 SHOPPING ARTBOOK BOOKS The USTA has 12 indoor DecoTurf courts, Map p448 (%718-433-1088; www.artbook.com/ 19 field courts, four climate-controlled clay artbookps1.html; 22-25 Jackson Ave, Long Island bubbled courts, and three stadium courts City; hnoon-6pm Thu-Mon; bE, M to 23rd St-Court that can be hired (per hour outdoor court Sq, G, 7 Court Sq) The bookshop at MoMA PS1 $22 to $34, indoor court $24 to $68). Reser- Q u e e ns S ports & A ctivities is, appropriately, well stocked with beautiful vations can be made up to two days in ad- tomes and eye-popping periodicals. vance. Hourly lessons are $90 to $120. NEW YORK METS BASEBALL 2 SPORTS & Map p450 (%718-507-8499; www.mets.com; ACTIVITIES 123-01 Roosevelt Ave, Flushing; tickets $19-130; b7 to Mets-Willets Pt) In the National League since 1962, the Mets remain New York’s NEW YORK SPA CASTLE SPA ‘new’ baseball team, and still the working- (%718-939-6300; http://ny.spacastleusa.com; class underdog compared with the glitzier, 131-10 11th Ave, College Point; weekday/weekend $40/50; h6am-midnight; W; b7 to Flushing- richer Yankees. Fans hold on to the magic of ’86, when the Mets last won the World Main St) A slice of cutting-edge Korean bath- Series in a miraculous comeback. Cheer house culture in an industrial corner of Queens, this 100,000-sq-ft spa complex is the boys to victory at Citi Field stadium, a 35-minute subway trip from Midtown. a bubbling dream of mineral and massage pools, saunas of dazzling variety, steam rooms and waterfalls. It also has a food WORLD’S FARE TOURS WALKING TOUR court, beauty treatments and massages (www.chopsticksandmarrow.com; tours from $60) Dedicated Queens eater Joe DiStefano (from $75), and a gym ($5). Avoid the place leads tours around Flushing’s vibrant Chi- on weekends as it gets packed. A free shuttle bus runs to/from the cor- natown and through the Himalayan dump- ling eateries clustered in Jackson Heights. ner of Northern Blvd and Union St, a few Grocery fiends can join a tour around blocks north of the Flushing–Main St sub- way station. Shuttles depart every 10 and 40 Southeast Asian stores in Elmhurst, many of which also sell great snacks. minutes past the hour. ASTORIA POOL SWIMMING CLIFFS INDOOR CLIMBING Map p448 (%718-626-8620; www.nycgovparks. Map p448 (%718-729-7625; www.thecliffsclimb org/parks/astoriapark; 19th St, at 23rd Dr, As- ing.com; 11-11 44th Dr, Long Island City; admission $28, shoes/harness rental $6/5; h7am-midnight toria; h11am-7pm late Jun-early Sep; bN/Q to Astoria Blvd) F This Works Progress Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat & Sun; bE, M to 23rd St- Administration Olympic-­size outdoor pool, Ely Ave, 7 to 45th Rd-Court House Sq) New York’s largest indoor-climbing facility has more built in 1936, is the biggest in the city, an el- egant wonder with views of Manhattan and than 30,000 sq ft of climbing surface, with the Triborough Bridge. It’s best for loung- some 125 top rope stations, 16ft top-out bouldering and a rappel tower. If that’s not ing, rather than serious laps, as it is only 3ft deep, and crowds can break 1000 on sunny enough of a workout for you, there’s also a summer days. gym with cardiovascular machines and ex- ercise equipment. Note the city policy at pools: T-shirts or coverups must be white (no colors), and you must bring a combination lock. USTA BILLIE JEAN KING NATIONAL TENNIS CENTER TENNIS CITI FIELD STADIUM Map p450 (%718-760-6200; www.usta.com; Map p450 (www.mets.com; 120-01 Roosevelt Ave, Flushing Meadows Corona Park, Corona; h6am- midnight; b7 to Mets-Willets Pt) The US Open Flushing; b7 to Mets-Willets Point) The home of the New York Mets, the city’s underdog takes place in late August; tickets usually baseball team, Citi Field opened in 2009. go on sale at Ticketmaster in April or May, but are hard to get for marquee games. It replaces the earlier Mets HQ, Shea Sta- dium. It also houses a small Mets Hall of General admission to early rounds is easier. Fame and museum. For about $80, top bleachers on Court 7 can

317 QUEENS HISTORICAL SOCIETY TOURS GEOGRAPHY OF NEW YORK CITY Map p450 (%718-939-0647; www.queenshistori WITH JACK EICHENBAUM WALKING TOUR calsociety.org; 143-35 37th Ave, Flushing; admis- (%718-961-8406; www.geognyc.com; tour $39) sion $5, tours from $20; h2:30-4:30pm Tue, Sat Urban geographer Jack Eichenbaum leads & Sun; b7 to Flushing-Main St) Set in the 18th- insightful walking (and sometimes sub- century Kingsland Homestead, this group way) tours around Queens, focusing on the has a small museum and offers walking strange collisions between planning and re- tours through various neighborhoods in ality, history and diverse modern use. Q u e e ns S ports & A ctivities Queens. These include nearby sites associ- ated with early religious-freedom move- ments and later Underground Railroad efforts.

31 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Woodstock & Husdon R Saugerties •# Hudson Valley •# North Fork •# •# •#The •# Hamptons NEW YORK CITY Fire Island 61000mki m 122050mkim ATOLCAENATNIC Day Trips from New York City The Hamptons p319 New York’s version of Malibu is a sweeping coastline studded with opu- lent mansions that host see-and-be-seen summer parties. Surprises include Native American sites, charming village main streets and wild state parks. Fire Island p321 This car-free getaway ramps up in summer with tiny rental bungalows, chill beach bars and, at one end, a famous gay scene, roaring with drag queens and a carefree clubs. The wild setting, with sand streets and miles of beaches, restores calm. North Fork p323 Wine-tasting at Long Island’s vineyards is a fun day’s ramble, capped by main-street strolling and alfresco dining at waterside Greenport. Hudson Valley p325 You could spend weeks exploring this region, with great hiking, open- air sculpture, charming towns and historic homes of American greats (Irving, Roosevelt and Vanderbilt included). Woodstock & Saugerties p328 Supplement your pilgrimage to hippiedom with a round of antiquing and quiet walks in protected parks.

319 The Hamptons from Penn Station in Manhattan, and Hunterspoint Ave and Jamaica Stations in Explore Queens, making stops in West Hampton, This string of villages on Long Island’s Southampton, Bridgehampton, East South Fork is a summer escape for Man- Hampton and Montauk. (But these hattan’s wealthiest, who commute to man- communities are difficult to appreciate sions by helicopter. The beaches are lovely, without a car.) You can buy tickets in but the towns are a frenetic scene of jet- advance online and reserve round-trip setters, celebrities and curious wannabes, fares in summer. and absolutely everything costs a pretty penny out here, with most inns charging Need to Know Day Tri ps fro m N e w Yo rk Cit y T he H a m p t o n s well over $300 a night in summer. Prices do ¨Area Code %631 drop a bit and traffic jams disappear about ¨Location 100 miles east (East Hampton) a month after Labor Day. This lessening of of Manhattan crowds, combined with the balmy weather ¨Information (%631-283-0402; www. of the fall harvest season, make autumn southamptonchamber.com; 76 Main St; an appealing time to visit. Montauk, out at h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) the end of the island, is a generally calmer scene year-round. 1 SIGHTS The Best… The Hamptons is actually a series of villag- ¨Sight Parrish Art Museum (p320) es, most with ‘Hampton’ in the name. Those ¨Place to Eat Westlake Fish House at the western end – or ‘west of the canal,’ (p321) as locals call the spots on the other side of ¨Place to Drink Montauket (p321) the Shinnecock Canal – include Hampton Bays, Quogue and Westhampton. They are Top Tip less frenzied than those to the east, which Those in search of summer solitude should start with the village of Southampton. plan a visit on a weekday, as the weekends are stuffed to the gills with refugees from 1 Southampton the urban jungle. Compared with some of its neighbors, Getting There & Away Southampton is an old-money, rather con- ¨Car Take the Midtown Tunnel out of servative spot. It’s home to sprawling old Manhattan onto I-495/Long Island Expwy. mansions, a main street with no ‘beach- Follow this for about 1½ hours until you wear’ allowed, and some lovely beaches. reach exit 70 to Sunrise Hwy East/Rte 24. Pick up maps and brochures about the After about 10 miles merge onto Montauk town at the Southampton Chamber of Hwy/Rte 27, which goes directly to Commerce, squeezed among a group of Southampton. Continue along Rte 27 to get high-priced, artsy-crafty shops and decent to all towns east of there. restaurants. ¨Bus The Hampton Jitney (%212-362- SOUTHAMPTON 8400; www.hamptonjitney.com; one way $32) is a ‘luxury’ express bus. Its Montauk HISTORICAL MUSEUM MUSEUM line departs from Manhattan’s East Side: Lexington Ave between 85th and 86th (%631-283-2494; www.southamptonhistorical Sts, then 69th St, 59th St and 40th St. It museum.org; 17 Meeting House Ln; adult/child makes stops at villages along Rte 27 in the $4/free; h11am-4pm Wed-Sun Mar-Dec) Before Hamptons. the Hamptons was the Hamptons, there ¨Train The Long Island Rail Road (LIRR; was this clutch of nicely maintained old %511; www.mta.info/lirr; furthest zone one buildings, including a whaling captain’s way off-peak/peak $20.50/28.25) leaves mansion.

320 LONG BEACH Beautiful Long Beach, one of the best stretches of sand in the area, is only a few miles outside New York City’s limits. It’s easily accessible by train and has clean beaches, a hoppin’ main strip with ice-cream shops and eateries within walking distance of the ocean, a thriving surf scene and many city hipsters. The downside: a $12 day-use fee. Long Island Rail Road runs ‘beach getaways,’ which include discounted admission and round-trip train fare during the summer, with departures from both Penn Station and Atlantic Terminal in Brooklyn. Day Tri ps fro m N e w Yo rk Cit y T he H a m p t o n s SHINNECOCK NATION CULTURAL North and South Forks. Think of it as a low-key Southampton, a moneyed hidea- CENTER & MUSEUM MUSEUM way with a touch of maritime New England style. Check out www.shelter-island.org, a (%631-287-4923; www.shinnecockmuseum. listings website run by the nonprofit Shel- com; 100 Montauk Hwy; adult/child $15/8.50; ter Island Club, for the latest information. h11am-5pm Thu-Sun; c) The 1300-member Shinnecock tribe runs this museum and A highlight of Shelter Island is the living-history village, one of the few re- Mashomack Nature Preserve (%631-749- minders of Native American life on Long 1001; www.nature.org/mashomack; Rte 114, Shel- Island. ter Island; donation adult/child $3/2; h9am-5pm Mar-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Feb), which is dotted with PARRISH ART MUSEUM MUSEUM hiking trails. (%631-283-2118; www.parrishart.org; 279 Mon- tauk Hwy, Water Mill; adult/child $10/free, free Wed; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon, to 8pm Fri) In a sleek long barn designed by Herzog & de 1 East Hampton Meuron, this institution spotlights local artists such as Jackson Pollock, Willem de This is Long Island’s trendiest town. Kooning and Chuck Close. For more Pollock, make reservations to OSBORN-JACKSON HOUSE MUSEUM see his nearby paint-drizzled studio and (%631-324-6850; www.easthamptonhistory.org; 101 Main St; donation $4; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat) home. Check out East Hampton’s colonial past 1 Bridgehampton & with a visit to the East Hampton Historical Sag Harbor Society. The Society tends to five historical attractions around East Hampton, includ- To the east of Southampton, Bridgehamp- ing several old colonial farms, mansions ton is tiny but packed with trendy bou- and a marine museum. tiques and restaurants. Turn north here and go 7 miles north to reach the old whal- POLLOCK-KRASNER HOUSE ARTS CENTER ing town of Sag Harbor, on Peconic Bay, (%631-324-4929; 830 Springs-Fireplace Rd; edged with historic homes. You can pick adult/child $10/5; htours hourly 11am-4pm up a walking-tour map at the Sag Harbor Thu-Sat May-Oct) Tour the home of husband- Chamber of Commerce on Long Wharf at and-wife art stars Jackson Pollock and Lee the end of Main St. Krasner – worth it just to see the paint- spattered floor of Pollock’s studio. Reserva- The Sag Harbor Whaling & Historical tions required. Museum (%631-725-0770; www.sagharbor whalingmuseum.org; 200 Main St, Sag Harbor; 1 Montauk adult/child $6/2; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat mid-Apr– mid-Oct) is fascinating, and the village’s tiny Once a sleepy and humble stepsister to the Cape Cod–style streets are a joy to stroll; Hamptons, these days Montauk, at the far there are many excellent restaurants to eastern end of Long Island, has developed a discover. cool reputation for the surfing beach Ditch Plains. Now there are affluent hipsters and A quick ride on the South Ferry will take boho-chic hotels, but the area is still far you to sleepy Shelter Island, which sits like a pearl in the claw formed by Long Island’s

321 SLEEPING IN THE HAMPTONS Day Tri ps fro m N e w Yo rk Cit y F i re Island Bridge Inn (%631-537-2900; www.hamptonsbridgeinn.com; 2668 Montauk Hwy, Bridge- hampton; r from $209; aWs) Get your foot in the Hamptons door at this clean and sleek motel, tucked behind hedges like all the neighboring mansions. Sunrise Guesthouse (%631-668-7286; www.sunrisebnb.com; 681 Old Montauk Hwy, Montauk; r $130, ste $195; aW) A good old-school option a few miles west of town, just across the road from the beach. Ocean Resort Inn (%631-668-2300; www.oceanresortinn.com; 95 S Emerson Ave, Mon- tauk; r from $135, ste from $185; aW) All rooms at this small, L-shaped hotel open onto a large porch or balcony. It’s walking distance to the beach and the main town. more of a democratic scene than the Hamp- NICK & TONI’S MEDITERRANEAN $$$ tons, with proudly blue-collar residents and casual seafood restaurants. (%631-324-3550; 136 North Main St, East Hamp- ton; pizzas $17, mains $24-42; h6-10pm Wed- ‘The End,’ as Montauk is affectionately Mon, to 11pm Fri & Sat, plus 11:30am-2:30pm Sun) called, is buffered from the Hamptons by A good bet for celebrity sightings, this insti- the forested dunes of Hither Hills State tution serves Italian food with ingredients Park, where camping, fishing and hiking from nearby farms. are options. The road divides just before the park – go straight through, or mean- MONTAUKET BAR der along the beachfront on Old Montauk Hwy. The roads converge in town, then (%631-668-5992; 88 Firestone Rd, Montauk; wind up at the far eastern tip of the island, hfrom noon Thu-Sun) Experts agree: this is in Montauk Point State Park (%631-668- the best place to watch the sun go down on 3781; 2000 Montauk Hwy; admission per vehicle Long Island. $8; hsunrise-sunset), with Montauk Point Lighthouse (%631-668-2544; www.montauk Fire Island lighthouse.com; 2000 Montauk Hwy; adult/child $10/4; h10:30am-5:30pm summer, reduced Explore hours rest of year) as a marker. Fire Island is a skinny, 50-mile-long bar- rier island most notable for the absence 5 EATING & DRINKING of cars. Sand streets, concrete paths and boardwalks connect the dozen or so tiny CANDY KITCHEN DINER $ residential communities, and the only traf- fic is fat-tire bikes and the little wagons (%631-537-9885; 2391 Montauk Hwy, Bridge- regulars haul their belongings in. Several hampton; mains $5-12; h7am-7:30pm; c) An enclaves are famed getaways for the gay antidote to glitz, this corner diner has been community, but there’s something for eve- serving good soups, ice cream and other ryone here, including families, couples and staples since 1925. single travelers – gay and straight alike. The island is federally protected as the oWESTLAKE FISH HOUSE SEAFOOD $$ Fire Island National Seashore, and much of it is wild dunes and windswept forest. In (%631-668-3474; 352 W Lake Dr, Montauk; mains summer, expect hamlets jam-packed with $21-36; hnoon-9pm Thu-Sun, to 10pm Fri & Sat; nightclubs next to neighboring stretches of c) In the marina of the same name, this sand where you’ll find nothing but pitched is a great place for seafood, all caught the tents and deer. Don’t forget bug repellent: same day. the mosquitoes are both fierce and abun- dant on Fire Island. While day trips are LOBSTER ROLL SEAFOOD $$ easy here, staying for a night or two is a real treat (even if hotel offerings aren’t great), (1980 Montauk Hwy, Amagansett, Montauk; mains especially in the quieter spring and fall. $14-28; h11:30am-10pm summer) ‘Lunch’ is the sign to look for on the roadside west of Montauk, marking the clam-and-lobster shack that’s been in operation since 1965.

322 child $10/5) to Kismet, Ocean Beach and other western communities. Sayville Ferry The Best… Service goes from Sayville to Cherry Grove ¨Activity Sunken Forest and Fire Island Pines. Davis Park Ferry ¨Place to Eat Sand Castle goes to Davis Park and Watch Hill – the ¨Place to Drink CJ’s easternmost ferry-access point of the island. Fire Island Water Taxi offers on- Top Tip demand service across the bay. On summer weekends, skip out before 3pm on Sunday or (better) spend the night and Day Tri ps fro m N e w Yo rk Cit y F i re Island Need to Know leave Monday – the line for the ferry on ¨Area Code %631 Sunday evenings is impossible. ¨Location 60 miles east of Manhattan ¨Information (www.fireisland.com) Getting There & Away ¨Car Take the Midtown Tunnel out of 1 SIGHTS Manhattan onto I-495/Long Island Expwy. For Sayville ferries (to The Pines, Cherry The gemlike parts of Fire Island are the Grove and Sunken Forest), get off at exit car-free zones in the center (rather than the 57 on to the Veterans Memorial Hwy. ends, reached by causeways). Davis Park, Make a right on Lakeland Ave and take it Fair Harbor, Kismet, Ocean Bay Park and to the end, following signs for the ferry. Ocean Beach combine small summer homes For Davis Park Ferry from Patchogue (to with tiny clusters of basic grocery stores and Watch Hill), take the Long Island Expwy restaurants. Of these communities, Ocean to exit 63 southbound (North Ocean Ave). Beach (‘OB’ to locals) is the liveliest, with a For Bay Shore ferries (all other Fire Island miniature downtown by the ferry port and destinations), take the Long Island Expwy a little strip of bars. Perhaps the most infa- to exit 30E, then get onto the Sagtikos mous villages are those that have evolved Pkwy to exit 42 south, to Fifth Ave terminal into gay destinations: Cherry Grove and The in Bay Shore. To get to Robert Moses State Pines, in the center of Fire Island. Biking Park by car, take exit 53 off the Long Island between towns isn’t feasible, as streets turn Expwy and travel south across the Moses into deep sand. For exploring further than Causeway. you can walk, Fire Island Water Taxi runs a ¨Train The Long Island Rail Road makes lateral ferry service along the bay side – but stops in Bay Shore, Sayville and Patchogue, this shuts down in October, along with most where you can catch a summer-only other tourist-oriented businesses. shuttle service (or walk or taxi) to the ferry terminal. SUNKEN FOREST FOREST ¨Ferry Fire Island Ferries (%631-665- 3600; www.fireislandferries.com; 99 (%631-597-6183; www.nps.gov/fiis; hvisitors Maple Ave, Bay Shore) run from near the center mid-May–mid-Oct) F This 300-year- Bay Shore LIRR station (one way adult/ old forest, a surprisingly dense stretch of SLEEPING ON FIRE ISLAND Watch Hill Campground (%631-567-6664; www.watchhillfi.com; Fire Island; tent sites $25; hearly May–late Oct) A tidy camping area in a wooded patch on the east end of Fire Island; a marina, snack bar and store are all on-site. Take the ferry from Patchogue. Seashore Condo Motel (%631-583-5860; www.seashorecondomotel.com; Bayview Ave, Ocean Bay Park; r from $219; W) Small, wood-paneled rooms without many frills, de- spite the price. Madison Fire Island (%631-597-6061; www.themadisonfi.com; 22 Atlantic Walk, Fire Is- land Pines; r from $250;aWs) Fire Island’s first ‘boutique’ hotel, which rivals anything Manhattan has to offer in terms of amenities, but also has killer views from a rooftop deck and a gorgeous pool (and pool boys).

323Day Tri ps fro m N e w Yo rk Cit y N orth F or k JONES BEACH The appeal of Jones Beach State Park (%516-785-1600; www.nysparks.com; 1 Ocean Pkwy; parking $10, lounge chairs $10, pools adult/child $3/1, mini-golf $5; h10am-7pm, though hours vary by area) is simple: 6.5 miles of clean sand covered with sun-worshippers. Its character differs depending on which ‘field’ you choose – for example, 2 is for the surf- ers and 6 is for families, and there’s a gay beach way east – but it’s a scene no matter where you spread your blanket. The ocean gets quite warm by midsummer (up to about 70°F, 21°C) and there are plenty of lifeguards. In between sunning and riding waves you might also hop into one of the two massive on-site pools for a swim; play shuffleboard or basketball on beachside courts; stroll the 2-mile boardwalk; visit the still waters of the bay beach; or, at Castles in the Sand, learn how master builder Robert Moses trans- formed Long Island with the creation of Jones Beach in the 1940s. Biking and running are allowed along a 4-mile path that stretches through the park, and there are places to rent bikes along the beach. When the sun goes down, you can grill at one of the many barbecues in the sand, grab burgers at the few local restau- rants near the beach, or head to the Jones Beach Theater (%516-221-1000; www. jonesbeach.com; 1000 Ocean Pkwy, Wantagh), where alfresco concerts under the stars feature big names in pop. Jones Beach is about 33 miles east of NYC, and it takes roughly 45 minutes to get here using public transportation. The Long Island Rail Road offers round trips from Manhattan’s Penn Station and Brooklyn’s Flatbush Ave Station (transfer required at Jamaica) to Freeport Station on Long Island; in summer, a round-trip combo ticket is available for $20.50. If you have your own vehicle, take the Midtown Tunnel from Manhattan onto I-495/ Long Island Expwy (LIE); turn off exit 38 to the eastbound Northern State Pkwy, then look for exit 33 for the Wantagh Pkwy. That goes straight to Jones Beach State Park. (You can also take the LIE to exit 31S for the Cross-Island Pkwy and then exit 25A onto the Southern State Pkwy to get to the Wantagh Pkwy.) trees behind the dunes, is easily accessible h11am-11pm in season, kitchen closed Wed) One via a boardwalk trail looping through. It’s of Fire Island’s only oceanfront (rather than pleasantly shady in summer, and vividly bayfront) options, Sand Castle serves up colored when the leaves change in fall. It’s satisfying appetizers (fried calamari, porto- accessible by its own ferry stop (Sailors Ha- bello fries) and lots of seafood temptations ven, where there’s also a visitor center), or (mussels, crabcakes, seared sea scallops). a long walk in the winter season, after the Nice cocktails and people watching. ferry shuts down. North Fork The beach straight south of here is also an impressively wild, yet reasonably acces- sible, stretch of the island. 5 EATING & DRINKING Explore Once synonymous with beachy hidea- CJ’S AMERICAN $$ ways, Long Island is now also known for its grapes. What was a lone winery in 1973 (%631-583-9890; www.cjsfireisland.com; 168 Cot- has become a thriving industry that takes tage Walk, Ocean Beach; mains $12-18) Open year- up more than 3000 acres of land, most in round, CJ’s is raucous and fun and a great the North Fork. East of Riverhead, Rte 25 is place to wait for your ferry. It’s packed on marked with green ‘wine trail’ signs. (The summer weekend nights, so get here early. South Fork also has a handful of vineyards; you can continue on to them, if you choose, SAND CASTLE SEAFOOD $$ via Shelter Island and two ferries.) On sum- mer and fall weekends, the tasting-room (%631-597-4174; www.fireislandsandcastle.com; 106 Lewis Walk, Cherry Grove; mains $15-30;

Day Tri ps fro m N e w Yo rk Cit y N orth F or k324 it ends, at Riverhead, and follow signs onto scene can be rather lively, as limos full of Rte 25. Stay on Rte 25 for all points east. celebrating groups hop from place to place. ¨Train The Long Island Rail Road’s line is the Ronkonkoma Branch, with trips The Best... leaving from Penn Station and Brooklyn ¨Sight Greenport and running all the way out to Greenport. ¨Place to Eat Claudio’s ¨Ferry To get from the North Fork to the ¨Place to Drink At the wineries (take your South Fork (or vice versa), take the North pick!) Ferry and South Ferry services to and from Shelter Island. Top Tip The North Folk wineries are an easy DIY Need to Know adventure. Consider taking the train out to ¨Area Code %631 Long Island and renting a car there (Riv- ¨Location 100 miles east of Manhattan erhead is a good place to look). Prices are ¨Information Long Island Wine Council cheaper than in Manhattan and you’ll save (%631-369-5887; www.liwines.com) time, gas and frustration. Getting There & Away 1 SIGHTS ¨Bus The Hampton Jitney picks up passengers on Lexington Ave at 86th St Harvest time is in fall, which, combined in Manhattan, and also 69th, 59th and with foliage and pumpkin-picking oppor- 44th Sts. It makes stops in 10 North Fork tunities, makes it an ideal time to visit villages. North Fork (although most places are open ¨Car Take the Midtown Tunnel out of year-round). A drive along the back roads Manhattan, which will take you onto the east of Riverhead affords some beauti- I-495/Long Island Expwy. Take this until ful, unspoiled vistas of farms and rural NORTH FORK WINERIES Early on, North Fork wineries gained a reputation for Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but in recent years, more have excelled with whites such as Chenin Blanc. The following are some of the most notable operations, whether for wine or simply good atmos- phere in the tasting rooms. Bedell Cellars (%631-734-7537; www.bedellcellars.com; 36225 Main Rd, Cutchogue; wine tasting from $15; h11am-5pm Sun-Thu, to 7pm Fri & Sat) S This estate prides itself on sus- tainable production practices. A gorgeous tasting room, though the wines skew oaky. Pindar Vineyards (%631-734-6200; www.pindar.net; 37645 Main Rd, Peconic; wine tasting $10; h11am-6pm) One of the earliest vineyards, now with 500 acres. Offers tours of facilities and live music. Lenz Winery (%631-734-6010; www.lenzwine.com; 38355 Rte 25, Peconic; h10am-5pm, to 6pm in summer) One of the oldest North Fork wineries, with excellent sparkling wines and Gewürztraminer. Pugliese Vineyards (%631-734-4057; www.pugliesevineyards.com; 34515 Main Rd, Cutchogue; tastings from $5; h11am-5pm, to 6pm Sat) More nice sparkling wines, in a small-scale, family-run tasting room. North Fork Tasting Room (%631-727-9513; www.northforktastingroom.com; 3225 Sound Ave, Riverhead; bottles from $24; h5-9pm Fri, from noon Sat & Sun) If you want to taste the wine without the travel, head straight to this winery, 4.5 miles northwest of Riverhead. Here you can sample a range of wines, local brews and snacks. If driving yourself doesn’t appeal, Vintage Tours (%631-765-4689; www.vintagetour1. com; tour per person incl lunch $88-99) and North Fork Trolley Co (%631-369-3031; www.northforktrolley.com; tour per person $79) can shepherd you around.

325 SLEEPING IN NORTH FORK Day Tri ps fro m N e w Yo rk Cit y H uds o n Va lle y Greenporter Hotel (%631-477-0066; www.greenporterhotel.com; 326 Front St, Green- port; r from $199; aWs) An older motel redone with white walls and Ikea furniture, this place is good value for the area. Its on-site restaurant, Cuvée, is very good. North Fork Table & Inn (%631-765-0177; www.nofoti.com; 57225 Main Rd, Southold; r from $250) A favorite foodies’ escape, this four-room inn has an excellent farm-to- table restaurant (three-course prix-fixe $75), run by alums of the esteemed Manhat- tan restaurant Gramercy Tavern. Pridwin Beach Hotel & Cottages (%631-749-0476; www.pridwin.com; 81 Shore Rd, Shelter Island; r from $245; aWs) Nestled on a prime piece of property surrounded by woods and fronting a small beach and the bay, Pridwin Beach Hotel & Cottages on Shelter Island has standard hotel rooms as well as private water-view cottages, some renovated in high-designer style. residential areas. The level terrain is also Hudson Valley very bike-friendly; rent from or tour with Long Island Bicycle Tours. Explore Winding roads along the Hudson River The most charming town in the area is take you by picturesque farms, Victorian Greenport, which has a picturesque water- cottages, apple orchards and old-money front, where kids flock to a century-old car- mansions built by New York’s elite. Painters ousel. Peaceful, pedestrian-friendly streets of the Hudson River School romanticized nearby are dotted with shops, cafes and these landscapes – you can see their work at eateries. Completists can head all the way art museums in the area as well as in NYC. out at the eastern tip of the North Fork to Autumn is a particularly beautiful time for Orient Beach State Park. a trip up this way. The eastern side of the river feels more populated – less so the fur- 5 EATING & DRINKING ther north you go – while the western side has a rural feel, with hills leading into the FOUR & TWENTY BLACKBIRDS DESSERTS $ Catskills mountain region. (%347-940-6717; 1010 Village Ln, Orient; pie slice $5; h8am-6pm Wed-Mon mid-May–Sep, week- The Best... ends only Oct-Apr) An outpost of the Brooklyn ¨Sights Dia Beacon (p326) pie experts, with delectable fruit and choco- ¨Place to Eat Blue Hill at Stone Barns late varieties. (p327) LOVE LANE KITCHEN MODERN AMERICAN $$ ¨Place to Drink The Hop (p327) (%631-298-8989; 240 Love Ln, Mattituck; mains lunch $12-15, dinner $16-30; h8am-9:30pm Top Tip Thu-Mon, 7am-4pm Tue & Wed) At this popu- Foodies should gravitate towards lar place on a cute street, local meat and Rhinebeck or Beacon, which have some of vegetables drive the global-diner menu: the best restaurants in the area. burgers, of course, plus spicy chickpeas and duck tagine. CLAUDIO’S SEAFOOD $$$ Getting There & Away ¨Car From Manhattan, take the (%631-477-0627; 111 Main St, Greenport; mains Henry Hudson Pkwy across the George $25-36; h11:30am-9pm, to 10pm Fri & Sat May- Washington Bridge (I-95) to Palisades Oct) A Greenport legend, owned by the Por- Pkwy. Head for the New York State tuguese Claudio family since 1870. For a Thruway to Rte 9W or Rte 9, the principal casual meal, hit Claudio’s Clam Bar, on the scenic river routes. You can also take the nearby pier.

326 72 sq miles and provides swimming, hik- Taconic State Pkwy north from Ossining, a ing, camping and a visitor center. pretty road in autumn. Day Tri ps fro m N e w Yo rk Cit y H uds o n Va lle y¨Bus Short Line (www.coachusa.com; 710 BEAR MOUNTAIN STATE PARK OUTDOORS W State St) Buses runs regular trips to (%845-786-2701; www.nysparks.com; Palisades Rhinebeck ($51). Pkwy, Bear Mountain; parking per car $8 summer; ¨Train The Metro-North (%511; www. h8am-dusk) The main draw is views of the mta.info/mnr) commuter train line makes Manhattan skyline from the 1303ft peak several stops on the Lower and Middle (accessible by car), but there’s also ice skat- Hudson Valleys (take the Hudson Line). ing in winter and boating and swimming Amtrak runs to Hudson. in summer. There are several scenic roads snaking their way past secluded lakes with Need to Know gorgeous vistas. ¨Area Code %845 ¨Location 95 miles north (Hyde Park) of KYKUIT HISTORIC SITE Manhattan ¨Information Dutchess County Tourism (%914-366-6900; www.hudsonvalley.org; 381 N (%800-445-3131; www.dutchesstourism. Broadway, Sleepy Hollow; tour adult/child $25/23; com; 3 Neptune Rd, Poughkeepsie), htour hours vary May–early Nov, closed Tue) Hudson Valley Network (www.hudson This onetime Rockefeller summer home valleyvoyager.com) has a remarkable collection of modern art. SUNNYSIDE HISTORIC BUILDING (%914-591-8763, Mon-Fri 914-631-8200; www. hudsonvalley.org; 3 W Sunnyside Ln, Sleepy Hol- low; adult/child $12/6; htours 10:30am-3:30pm 1 SIGHTS & Wed-Sun May-Oct; c) Washington Irving, fa- ACTIVITIES mous for tales such as The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, built this imaginative home. Tour guides in 19th-century costume tell good stories. 1 Lower Hudson Valley Several magnificent homes can be found STORM KING ART CENTER GALLERY near Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow, east of the Hudson. Further north, the village (%845-534-3115; www.stormking.org; 1 Museum of Cold Spring offers good hiking on trails Rd, New Windsor; adult/child $15/8; h10am- not far from the train station. For arts, 5:30pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct, to 4:30pm Nov) S the formerly industrial Beacon, also easily This 500-acre sculpture park, established reached by train, has been revived as an in 1960, has works by Mark di Suvero, outpost of the avant-garde. If you have a car, Andy Goldsworthy and others, all carefully cross to the Hudson’s west bank to explore placed in nooks formed by the land’s natu- Harriman State Park and adjacent Bear ral breaks and curves. Mountain State Park, with views down to Manhattan from its 1303ft peak. 1 Poughkeepsie & Hyde Park oDIA BEACON GALLERY (Beacon; %845-440-0100; www.diaart.org; FRANKLIN D 3 Beekman St, Beacon; adult/child $12/free; ROOSEVELT HOME HISTORIC BUILDING h11am-6pm Thu-Mon Apr-Oct, 11am-4pm Fri-Mon (%845-486-7770; www.nps.gov/hofr; 4097 Al- bany Post Rd, Hyde Park; adult/child $18/free, Nov-Mar) This former factory houses monu- museum only adult/child $9/free; h9am-5pm) mental contemporary sculpture by the likes of Richard Serra and Dan Flavin, plus ever- FDR served three terms as president and changing, always surprising installations. instituted lasting progressive programs; he also made the decision to drop the A-bomb HARRIMAN STATE PARK OUTDOORS on Japan to end WWII. A tour of his home, (%845-947-2444; www.nysparks.com; Seven relatively modest considering his family Lakes Dr, Ramapo; parking per car $8) This park on the west side of the Hudson covers wealth, is interesting, but it can be unpleas- antly crowded in summer.

5 EATING 327 In this case, better to focus on the ex- THE HOP MODERN AMERICAN $$ cellent museum, built around FDR’s own library, where he recorded his ground- (%845-440-8676; 554 Main St, Beacon; sand- breaking radio program of ‘fireside chats.’ wiches $15, mains $24-36; hnoon-10pm Wed- You can also visit Val-Kill (%845-229-9422; Mon, to midnight Fri & Sat) Craft beer and cider www.nps.gov/elro; 54 Valkill Park Rd, Hyde Park; is this casual spot’s raison d’etre, and it goes adult/child $10/free; h9am-5pm daily May-Oct, perfectly with local cheeses and hearty Thu-Mon Nov-Apr), Eleanor Roosevelt’s cot- creations like the Huff-n-Puff, a pork burger tage hideaway. VANDERBILT MANSION HISTORIC SITE with ham and bacon. (%877-444-6777; www.nps.gov/vama; 119 Van- HELSINKI MODERN AMERICAN $$ derbilt Park Rd, Hyde Park; grounds free, tours adult/child $10/free; h9am-5pm) The railroad- (%518-828-4800; www.helsinkihudson.com; 405 Day Tri ps fro m N e w Yo rk Cit y H uds o n Va lle y Columbia St, Hudson; mains $13-25; h5-10pm wealthy Vanderbilt family’s summer ‘cot- Thu-Tue) This restored carriage house is a tage’ is a Beaux-Arts spectacle, with most of the original furnishings. sort of clubhouse for the valley’s working artists. A music venue showcases rock, jazz and even global touring acts, while the res- WALKWAY OVER THE HUDSON PARK taurant does locally sourced cuisine like (%845-454-9649; www.walkway.org; 61 Parker garlicky kale salads. Ave, Poughkeepsie; h7am-sunset) Once a rail- road bridge crossing the Hudson, this is now the world’s longest pedestrian bridge – 1.28 BLUE HILL AT miles – and a state park. STONE BARNS MODERN AMERICAN $$$ (%914-366-9600; www.bluehillfarm.com; 630 Bedford Rd, Pocantico Hills; prix fixe $218; hcafe & farm 10am-4:30pm Wed-Sun, restaurant 5-10pm 1 Rhinebeck & Hudson Wed-Sat, from 1pm Sun) S Go maximum lo- oOLANA HISTORIC SITE cavore at chef Dan Barber’s farm (it also supplies his Manhattan restaurant). By day, (%518-828-0135; www.olana.org; 5720 Rte 9G, visitors are welcome to tour the fields and Hudson; tours adult/child $12/free, grounds per vehicle $5; hgrounds 8am-sunset daily, tours pastures, and there’s a very basic cafe. 10am-4pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, self-guided tour only BOCUSE MODERN FRENCH $$$ 2-5pm Sat) In pure aesthetic terms, this is the finest of the Hudson Valley mansions, (%845-451-1012; www.ciarestaurantgroup. com; 1946 Campus Dr, Hyde Park; mains $26-31; as landscape painter Frederic Church de- h11:30am-1pm & 6-8:30pm Tue-Sat) One of signed every detail, inspired by his travels several excellent student-run restaurants in the Middle East and his appreciation of at the Culinary Institute of America, this the river view. SLEEPING ON THE HUDSON Roosevelt Inn (%845-229-2443; www.rooseveltinnofhydepark.com; 4360 Albany Post Rd, Hyde Park; r $85-115; hclosed Jan & Feb; aW) A fantastically clean roadside motel; its pine-paneled ‘rustic’ rooms are a bargain. Wm Farmer and Sons (%518-828-1635; www.wmfarmerandsons.com; 20 S Front St, Hudson; r from $149; aW) This rustic-chic former boarding house, steps from the train station and a short walk to Warren St, has rough-hewn furniture and claw-foot tubs. Its restaurant gets high marks. Mohonk Mountain House (%845-255-1000; www.mohonk.com; 1000 Mountain Rest Rd, New Paltz; d all-inclusive from $558; aWs c) This rustic castle perches over a dark lake, offering guests all the luxuries, from lavish meals to golf to spa services, plus a full roster of outdoor excursions, such as hiking and trail rides. Rates include all meals and most activities. Day visitors are welcome too, for a meal (reserve ahead) or a fee (adult/child $26/21) – the hiking trails are good for all ages, a somewhat easier way to see the area than in the neighboring Mohonk Preserve.

328 Need to Know place does traditional truffles and mod- ¨Area Code %845 ern tableside tricks like liquid-nitrogen ice ¨Location 110 miles north (Saugerties) of cream. Lunch is good value. For a snack, Manhattan head for Apple Pie Cafe (%845-905-4500; 1946 Campus Dr, Hyde Park; sandwiches $10-15; h7:30am-5pm Mon-Fri). Day Tri ps fro m N e w Yo rk Cit y W oodstoc k & S augert i es Woodstock & 1 SIGHTS & Saugerties ACTIVITIES Explore A minor technicality: the 1969 music fes- In the southern Catskills, the town of Wood- tival was actually held in Bethel, an hour stock symbolizes the tumultuous 1960s, away. Nonetheless, the town of Woodstock when young people questioned authority, still cultivates the free spirit of that era, experimented with freedom and redefined with rainbow tie-dye style and local grass- popular culture. Today, it’s a combination roots everything, from radio to movies to of quaint and hip – an artists’ colony full of a farmers market (Wednesdays in summer; young urbanites. The Woodstock Guild is a fittingly billed as a ‘farm festival’). Just good source for finding out the latest goings- 7 miles east, Saugerties is not nearly as on in the arts and culture scene, such as the quaint and feels by comparison like the big annual Woodstock Film Festival in October, city, but the lighthouse on the point in the which attracts film fans from all over. Hudson is well worth a visit. Saugerties, which sees far fewer tourists, For a very rural drive, head to West has a quaint main street and picturesque Saugerties (FYI, rock aficionados: site of lighthouse. Big Pink, the house made famous by Bob Dylan and The Band) and take Platte Clove The Best... Rd (Cty Rd 16) northwest. The seven wind- ¨Sight Opus 40 ing miles are some of the most scenic in ¨Activity Overlook Mountain, Catskill the Catskills. The road eventually emerges Forest Preserve around Tannersville. ¨Place to Eat Cucina OPUS 40 SCULPTURE PARK Top Tip Bring an empty bag – you never know what (%845-246-3400; www.opus40.org; 50 Fite Rd, you’ll unearth in the many antique shops Saugerties; adult/child $10/3; h11am-5:30pm and markets (plus weekend yard sales!) Thu-Sun May-Sep) Beginning in 1938, artist found in the area. Harvey Fite worked for nearly four decades to coax an abandoned quarry into an im- Getting There & Away mense work of land art, all sinuous walls, ¨Car Take the New York State Thruway canyons and pools. (via the Henry Hudson Pkwy north from Manhattan) or I-87 to Rte 375 for SAUGERTIES LIGHTHOUSE LIGHTHOUSE Woodstock, Rte 32 for Saugerties or Rte 28 for other points. (%845-247-0656; www.saugertieslighthouse. ¨Bus Frequent buses to Saugerties and com; 168 Lighthouse Dr, Saugerties; tour suggest- Woodstock are operated by Trailways ed donation adult/child $5/3; hsunrise-sunset, (%800-858-8555; www.trailwaysny.com). tours noon-3pm Sun summer) F A half-mile nature trail leads to this 1869 landmark on the point where Esopus Creek joins the Hudson. You can also stay the night in the lighthouse’s two-room B&B ($225), but you must book at least six months ahead. BETHEL WOODS CENTER FOR THE ARTS ARTS CENTER (%866-781-2922; www.bethelwoodscenter. org; 200 Hurd Rd; museum adult/child $15/6; hmuseum 10am-7pm daily May-Sep, 10am-5pm

329 SLEEPING IN WOODSTOCK & SAUGERTIES Roxbury Motel (%607-326-7200; www.theroxburymotel.com; 2258 County Rd 41, Roxbury; r $158-550; aW) Every room is a work of art: sleep in a glam version of a Flintstones cave, Oz’s Emerald City or even a dreamy cream pie. (A couple of more subdued rooms are available for $100.) Breakfast is continental but generous, and there’s a full spa. White Dove Rockotel (%845-306-5419; www.thewhitedoverockotel.com; 148 Tinker St, Woodstock; r from $165, ste from $225; W) A couple of Phish fans run this purple-painted Victorian. The four party-ready rooms are decorated with psychedelic concert post- ers, record players and vintage vinyl. Thu-Sun Oct-Apr) The site of the Woodstock 5 EATING Day Tri ps fro m N e w Yo rk Cit y W oodstoc k & S augert i es Music & Art Fair, on Max Yasgur’s farm outside Bethel, is 70 miles from the town LAST CHANCE CHEESE AMERICAN $$ of Woodstock. It’s now home to an amphi- theater with great summer concerts and an (%518-589-6424; 6009 Main St, Tannersville; evocative museum dedicated to the hippie mains $9-20; h11am-midnight Fri & Sat, to 9pm movement and the 1960s. Sun, to 4pm Mon) This four-decade-old institu- tion is part roadhouse with live bands, part candy store and part restaurant, serving CATSKILL FOREST PRESERVE PARK hearty meals. (www.dec.ny.gov/lands/5265.html) For memo- rable hiking, head to this park, a huge swath of land that contains the vital wa- CUCINA ITALIAN $$ tershed feeding NYC’s ravenous thirst, and (%845-679-9800; 109 Mill Hill Rd, Woodstock; mains $16-26; h5am-late, from 11am Sat & Sun) hundreds of miles of trails. One of the most Sophisticated seasonal Italian fare, includ- accessible parts of the park near Woodstock is Overlook Mountain. Reach it by taking ing thin-crust pizzas, in a farmhouse with a large communal table. Rock City Rd (next to the village green), which turns into Meads Mountain Rd. The trailhead parking lot is up about 2 miles. The 4.8-mile trail takes in great views, plus the ruins of a 1920s lodge, and a metal fire- tower, which you can climb if you’re not scared of heights. TOWN TINKER TUBE RENTAL WATER SPORTS (%845-688-5553; www.towntinker.com; 10 Bridge St, Phoenicia; tubes per day $15, package incl trans- portation $25; c) Visit this outfitter for every- thing you need to ride an inner tube down wet and wild (and cold!) Esopus Creek.

3 30 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sleeping In general, accommodations prices in New York City do not abide by any high-season or low-season rules; wavering rates usually reflect availability. With over 50 million visitors descending upon the city every year, you can expect that hotel rooms fill up quickly – especially in summer. Accommodations options range from boxy cookie-cutter rooms in Midtown high-rises to stylish boutique options downtown. You’ll also find a few B&Bs set in residential neighborhoods. Booking Accommodations often cheaper, and you’ll generally find that In New York City, the average room rate is accommodations in winter months have well over $300. But don’t let that scare you smaller price tags. If you are visiting over as there are great deals to be had – almost a weekend, try for a business hotel in the all of which can be found through savvy on- Financial District, which tends to empty out line snooping. To get the best deals, launch a when the workweek ends. two-pronged approach: if you don’t have your heart set on a particular property, then check Beyond Hotels & Hostels out the generic booking websites. If you We can all thank little Plaza-dweller Eloise do know where you want to stay – it might for conjuring up fanciful dreams of hang- sound simple – but it’s best to start at your ing one’s hat in a luxury New York City hotel desired hotel’s website. These days it’s not room, but these days, finding a place to sleep uncommon to find deals and package rates in the city that never does is hardly restricted directly on the site of your accommodation to the traditional spectrum of lodging. of choice. Websites such as Airbnb (www.airbnb. Room Rates com) are providing a truly unique – and New York City doesn’t have a ‘high season’ not to mention economical – alternative to in the common way that beach destinations the wallet-busting glitz and glam. Selling do. Sure, there are busier times of the year ‘unique spaces’ to tourists looking for their when it comes to tourist traffic, but at over home away from home, such sites offer lo- 50 million visitor per annum, the Big Apple cals the opportunity to rent out their apart- never needs to worry when it comes to filling ments while they’re out of town, or lease a up beds. As such, room rates fluctuate based space (be it a bedroom or pull-out couch) in on availability; in fact, most hotels have a their home. Airbnb is an undeniable hit in booking algorithm in place that spits out a NYC, where space comes at a premium and price quote relative to the number of rooms obscenely high real estate prices act as quite already booked on the same night, so the the incentive for locals to supplement their busier the evening the higher the price goes. housing income. If you’re looking to find the best room rates, then flexibility is key – weekdays are

331 Lonely Planet’s Best for Views NEED TO KNOW Top Choices Standard (p337) Prices NoMad Hotel (p342) Z Hotel (p350) The following price ranges A beaux-arts beauty, where Four Seasons (p342) refer to the standard range Franco-American chic meets in rates for a standard dou- meticulous wining and dining. Best for Families ble room regardless of the time of year. Unless other- Wythe Hotel (p347) Boutique Hotel Beacon (p345) wise stated, breakfast is style in trendy Williamsburg, Bubba & Bean Lodges included in the price. with industrial chic rooms, a (p344) roof terrace and a great Brook- Nu Hotel (p348) $ less than $150 lyn location. Best Boutique Digs $$ $150 to $350 Gramercy Park Hotel (p339) This grande dame with Crosby Street Hotel (p334) $$$ more than $350 gorgeous bars and a guest-only Andaz Fifth Avenue (p342) rooftop terrace offers keys to Ace Hotel (p343) Reservations Sleeping  the coveted park below. Reservations are essential Best for – walk-ins are practically 3B (p348) Charming four-room Honeymooners impossible and rack rates Brooklyn haunt run by a crea- are almost always unfa- tive, arts-loving collective. 1871 House (p344) vorable relative to online London NYC (p343) deals. Reserve your room Truck-a-Float (p349) Andaz Fifth Avenue (p342) as early as possible and Artfully designed cabins floating make sure you understand in a marina near Rockaway Best for Jetsetters your hotel’s cancellation Beach. policy. Expect check-in to Hotel Gansevoort (p337) always be in the middle of Best by Budget Bowery Hotel (p336) the afternoon and check- McCarren Hotel & Pool out times to be in the late $ (p348) morning. Local NYC (p349) Websites New York Loft Hostel (p347) ¨¨newyorkhotels.com Harlem Flophouse (p346) (www.newyorkhotels.com) The self-proclaimed $$ official website for hotels in NYC. Citizen M (p340) Wall Street Inn (p333) ¨¨NYC (www.nycgo.com/ Boro Hotel (p349) hotels) Loads of listings from the NYC Official $$$ Guide. Knickerbocker (p342) ¨¨Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/usa/new- Hôtel Americano (p337) york-city/hotels) Accom- modations reviews and Plaza (p342) online booking service. Tipping You must always tip the maid – leave $3 to $5 per night in an obvious location with a note. Porters should receive a dollar or two, and service staff bringing items to your room should be tipped as well.

332 Where to Stay Neighborhood For Against Lower Manhattan & the Financial District Convenient to Tribeca’s nightlife The area can feel impersonal, SoHo & Chinatown and ferries. Cheap weekend corporate and even a bit deso- rates at business hotels. late after business hours. East Village & Lower East Side Shop to your heart’s content Crowds (mostly tourists) swarm right on your doorstep. the commercial streets of SoHo West Village, Chelsea & almost any time of day. the Meatpacking District Funky and fun, the area feels the Not tons to choose from when it Union Square, Flatiron most quintessentially ‘New York’ comes to hotel sleeps. District & Gramercy to visitors and Manhattanites alike. Midtown Sleeping  Brilliantly close-to-everything Prices soar for traditional hotels, Upper East Side feel in a thriving, picturesque but remain reasonable for B&Bs. part of town that has an almost Rooms can sometimes be on the Upper West Side & European feel. small side, even for NYC. Central Park Harlem & Convenient subway access to Prices are high and there’s not Upper Manhattan anywhere in the city. You’re also much in the way of neighbor- Brooklyn steps away from the Village and hood flavor. Midtown in either direction. Queens In the heart of the postcard’s One of the most expensive areas version of NYC: skyscrapers, in the city; expect small rooms. museums, shopping and Broad- Midtown can often feel touristy way shows. and impersonal. You’re a stone’s throw from top- Options are scarce and wallet- notch museums and the rolling busting prices are not uncom- hills of Central Park. mon; you’re not particularly central. Convenient access to Central Tends to swing a bit too far in the Park and the Museum of Natural familial direction if you’re look- History. ing for a livelier scene. Great neighborhood vibe, better Long subway rides (or pricey cab prices, close to Central Park. rides) to the action downtown and in Brooklyn. Better prices; great for exploring It can be a long commute to some of NYC’s most creative Midtown Manhattan and points neighborhoods. north. Much cheaper than Manhattan. Industrial setting can make for a Digs in Long Island City are a less charming stay. short subway ride from Midtown.

333 4 Lower Manhattan & COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL HOTEL $$ the Financial District Map p410 (%212-566-1900; www.cosmohotel. Most hotels in the Financial District are com; 95 W Broadway, at Chambers St; d from geared towards business travelers, which $289; a iW; b1/2/3, A/C to Chambers St) often means discounted rates on week- Cosmo is a hero if you’d rather save your ends. To the north, hipper Tribeca harbors bills for the area’s chic eateries and bou- a handful of forever-fashionables, among tiques. The 129-room hotel isn’t much to them Robert De Niro’s Greenwich Hotel. brag about – clean, carpeted rooms with private bathrooms, a double bed or two, and Ikea-knock-off furnishings. But it’s clean and comfortable, with Frette linen and towels, CO Bigelow bath amenities, and WALL STREET INN HOTEL $$ Map p410 (%212-747-1500; www.thewallstree- major subway lines at your feet. tinn.com; 9 S William St; r from $209; aW; b2/3 Advance purchases (at least a month to Wall St) The sedate stone exterior of this ahead) can see room rates drop below $200. inn belies its warm, Colonial-style interior. Beds are big and plush, and rooms have oGREENWICH HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ glossy wood furnishings and long drapes. The bathrooms are full of appreciated Map p410 (%212-941-8900; www.thegreenwich- Sle e pi n g L O W E R M A N H AT TA N & T H E F I N A N C I A L D I S T R I C T touches, like Jacuzzis in the deluxe rooms hotel.com; 377 Greenwich St, btwn N Moore & and tubs in the others. Wi-fi is complimen- Franklin Sts; r from $595; aWs; b1 to Franklin tary. St; A/C/E to Canal St) From the plush draw- The building is a piece of history, too – ing room (complete with crackling fire) to the ‘LB’ tile in the entry dates from the pre- the lantern-lit pool inside a reconstructed vious tenants, the Lehman Brothers bank- Japanese farmhouse, nothing about Rob- ing company. ert De Niro’s Greenwich Hotel is generic. Each of the 88 individually designed rooms GILD HALL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ feature dark, aged wood across the floors; and opulently tiled Carrara marble or Mo- Map p410 (%212-232-7700; www.thompsonho- roccan tiled bathrooms. Floor-to-ceiling tels.com/hotels/gild-hall; 15 Gold St, at Platt St; r French doors open onto a Tuscan-inspired from $289; aW; b2/3 to Fulton St) Boutique courtyard in some of the Courtyard and and brilliant, Gild Hall’s entryway leads Greenwich rooms. to a bi-level library and wine bar that ex- udes hunting-lodge chic. Rooms fuse Euro BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ ANDAZ WALL ST elegance and American comfort, with high Map p410 (%212-590-1234; newyork.wallstreet. andaz.hyatt.com; 75 Wall St, at Water St; r from tin ceilings, glass-walled balconies, Sferra $445; a iW; b2/3 to Wall St) A favorite of linens, and mini-bars stocked with Dean & DeLuca treats. Hermès designed the hipper downtown business types, the 253- leather headboards on the king-size beds, room Andaz takes sleek and handsome, and which work perfectly in their warmly hued, gives it a relaxed, new-school vibe. Guests minimalist surroundings. Rates often drop are checked-in on iPads, and treated to on weekends. complimentary wi-fi, local calls and mini- bar soda and snacks. Rooms are spacious, CLUB QUARTERS contemporary and elegantly restrained, WORLD TRADE CENTER HOTEL $$ with 7ft-high windows, oak floors and sub- Map p410 (%212-577-1133; clubquartershotels. limely comfortable beds with 300-thread- com/new-york/world-trade-center; 140 Washing- ton St, at Albany St; r from $259; a iW; bR to count cotton sheets. Slurp craft brews at Andaz’s seasonal Cortland St; A/C, 2/3, 4/5, J/Z to Fulton St; 1 to Rec- Beer Garden or crafty cocktails at year- torSt) Right opposite the World Trade Center site, this 252-room chain hotel keeps things round Dina Rata, then work it all off at the spa or 24-hour fitness center. Weekend affordable with clean, modern, cookie- rates can drop well below $300. cutter rooms at reasonable prices. Perks include free wi-fi, unlimited bottled water, BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ SMYTH TRIBECA coffee and tea, complimentary wi-fi print- Map p410 (%212-587-7000; www.thompsonho- tels.com/hotels/smyth-tribeca; 85 W Broadway, ing and iPad use, on-site fitness room and btwn Warren & Chambers Sts; r from $415; aW; laundry facilities. Eleven subways lines are within walking distance. bA/C, 1/2/3 to Chambers St) Revamped by

334 rounded by hectic streets, this boxy space Gachot Studios, the Smyth delivers the same offers clean, no-frills accommodations that combo of luxury and laid-back hipness that is decent value in wallet-draining NYC. you’ll find at sister Thompson hotels Gild Rooms are comfortable, if minimally fur- Hall and the Beekman. Modernist furni- nished, and some have fetching views of ture, rugs and book-lined shelves give the Lower Manhattan and taller-than-thou lobby a snug, chic, Scandinavian vibe, while One World Trade Center. The staff are the sound-proofed rooms are a soothing friendly and the location is super-handy for combo of charcoal carpets, walnut paneling, exploring Chinatown, Nolita and the Lower and slinky bathrooms with irresistible rain East Side. showers. Extra in-house perks include a fine- Regular online deals can see room rates dining, season-driven restaurant from drop well below $300, with doubles often A-list restaurateur Andrew Carmellini; beginning at $250 a night a complimentary town car service; and twice-daily housekeeping service. NOMO SOHO BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ Map p412 (%646-218-6400; www.nomosoho. com; 9 Crosby St, btwn Howard & Grand Sts; r from 4 SoHo & Chinatown $279; aW; bN/Q/R, J/Z, 6 to Canal St) Neo- Sle e pi n g S O H O & C H I N AT O W N baroque playfulness underscores the plush, Style fiends hyperventilate over SoHo’s smallish rooms at this beautiful downtown fashion-conscious streets and hoteliers property, where creamy whites and dreamy have taken note. There’s no shortage of blues meet flouncy sconces and marble coveted accommodations options to choose bathrooms. Indeed, upper-level rooms will from along these star-studded lanes, but leave you feeling like you’re gazing out at they come at quite a cost. Is it worth it? Manhattan from a cloud. The garden- Totally. You’ll have some of the world’s best inspired restaurant serves fine modern shopping, drinking and dining at your American flavors under a maelstrom of doorstep, and you’re a short subway hop or crystal chandeliers, while the bar sees taxi ride from some of Manhattan’s other guests sipping behind a secret bookshelf great neighborhoods. Slightly cheaper digs door. await in the borderlands of Chinatown and Nolita. For true budget options, however, BEST WESTERN you’ll need to leave the neighborhood and go further afield. BOWERY HANBEE HOTEL HOTEL $$ Map p415 (%212-925-1177; www.bw-boweryhan- beehotel.com; 231 Grand St, at Bowery; r from $279; aW; bB/D to Grand St; J/Z to Bowery) BOWERY HOUSE HOSTEL $ Map p412 (%212-837-2373; www.thebowery- Clean, comfortable, simple rooms is what house.com; 220 Bowery, btwn Prince & Spring Sts; you get at this reliable chain hotel. While s/d with shared bath from $100/140; aW; bJ/Z the place lacks any real character or charm, to Bowery) Across the street from the New it’s one of the few midrange options in this Museum, this former 1920s-era flophouse part of town, slap bang in Chinatown and has been resurrected as an upmarket hostel, within walking distance of uber-hip SoHo, its rooms decked out with Bowery-themed Nolita and the Lower East Side. There’s an film posters and custom-made mattresses on-site gym. (ie shorter and narrower), while communal bathrooms feature rain showers and heated CROSBY STREET HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ floors. There’s also a stylish lounge area Map p412 (%212-226-6400; www.firmdalehotels. with Chesterfield sofas and chandeliers, a com; 79 Crosby St, btwn Spring & Prince Sts; r from buzzing bar and a roof terrace. $675; a iW; b6 to Spring St; N/R to Prince Light sleepers should avoid this place, St) Step into Crosby Street for afternoon which attracts a nightlife-loving crowd; tea and you’ll never want to leave. It’s not earplugs come standard with every room. just the scones and clotted cream that will grab you, but the eccentric, loft-like lobby, LEON HOTEL HOTEL $$ buzzing bar, film-screening room, and one- of-a-kind rooms. While some of the latter Map p415 (%212-390-8833; www.leonhotelnyc. are starkly black and white, and others as com; 125 Canal St, btwn Bowery & Chrystie St; pretty and floral as an English garden, all r from $250; aW; bB/D to Grand St) At the are plush, refined and subtly playful. entrance to the Manhattan Bridge and sur-

MERCER BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 335 oversized mirrors from BDDW. Topping it Map p412 (%212-966-6060; www.mercerhotel. off are beautiful, personable service and a com; 147 Mercer St, at Prince St; r from $625; soothing, tranquil vibe that offers respite aW; bN/R to Prince St) Right in the heart from SoHo’s relentless energy. of SoHo’s brick lanes, the grand Mercer is where stars sleep. Above the leisurely lobby NOLITAN HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ full of fat, plush sofas, the 75 rooms offer a Map p412 (%212-925-2555; www.nolitanhotel. com; 30 Kenmare St, btwn Elizabeth & Mott Sts; slice of chic loft life in a century-old ware- r from $479; aW#; bJ/Z to Bowery; 6 to Spring house. Flat-screen TVs, dark-wood floors and white-tiled bathrooms (some with St; B/D to Grand St) Set behind a memorable facade of floating positive-negative Tetris soaking tubs under a skylight) add a mod- bricks, the Nolitan is a great find situated ern touch to rooms that nod to the build- ing’s industrial roots. between two of the most popular New York neighborhoods: SoHo and the Village. Tuck into a good book in the inviting lobby JAMES NEW YORK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ Map p412 (%212-465-2000; www.jameshotels. lounge, or head upstairs to your stylish pad – com/new-york; 27 Grand St, btwn Ave of the Amer- a scene that looks straight out of a CB2 icas & Thompson St; r from $403; a iWs; catalog. bA/C/E, 1 to Canal St) The James plays with Wi-fi and bike use is complimentary, as Sleeping E A S T V I L L A G E & L O W E R E A S T S I D E a variety of architectural elements in each are the vino and cheese during happy hour of the hotel’s different spaces, and some- (Monday to Saturday). Online room rates how they all work beautifully. The public can slide well below $300, so always keep areas – especially the designated lobbies – an eye out. blend abundant natural light with playful touches (we love the computer-key mural). Upstairs, rooms are light-filled and rela- 4 East Village & tively simple, with chocolate-hued accents, Lower East Side reclaimed timber floors, and a motorized screen separating each from its copper- Statement-making structures have been hued bathroom. cropping up in these once grittier neighbor- Added sex appeal is provided by the roof- hoods, giving the area a fun, world-in-one top plunge pool, complete with slinky bar feel that still remains distinctly New York for see-and-be-seen cocktails. in style. Visitors seeking that true city feel will be perfectly happy taking up residence LAFAYETTE HOUSE GUESTHOUSE $$$ along these low-numbered streets, espe- cially if you’ve got the dime for a room at Map p412 (%212-505-8100; www.lafayettenyc. the Bowery or Cooper Sq hotels. Stay west com; 38 E 4th St , btwn Fourth Ave & Lafayette St; if subway convenience is a primary concern r $250-450; aW; b6 to Bleecker St; B/D/F/M to – underground transportation thins as you Broadway-Lafayette St) A former townhouse, head east, especially beyond First Ave. this Victorian beauty offers eight homely rooms with big beds, thick drapes, mar- BLUE MOON BOUTIQUE HOTEL HOTEL $$ ble fireplaces and old-fashioned armoires. Map p418 (%347-294-4552; www.bluemoonbou- Two rooms feature their own private gar- tiquehotel.com; 100 Orchard St, btwn Broome & den, while another two come with private Delancey Sts; dm/d from $85/170; aW; bF to terrace or balcony. Light sleepers beware: Delancey St; J/M to Essex St) You’d never guess rooms facing the street can feel a bit noisy. that this welcoming brick guesthouse – full of festive yellows, blues and greens – was BROOME BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ once a foul tenement back in the day (the day being 1879). With touches including Map p412 (%212-431-2929; www.thebroomenyc. original wood shutters and wrought-iron com; 431 Broome St, at Crosby St; r from $400; bed frames, Blue Moon’s small, spare rooms aW; bN/R to Prince St; 6 to Spring St) Occu- are vintage-inspired and comfortable. The pying a handsomely restored, 19th-century best rooms are bright, with balconies that federal-style building, the Broome opened have fine views. to much fanfare in 2014. Spread across five stories its 14 rooms are the epitome The Blue Moon also has two dorm rooms of simple, muted elegance, each with lo- with four single beds each (no bunk beds) – cally sourced fittings including furnish- one mixed room, one for females only. ings by Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams and

336 EAST VILLAGE HOTEL HOTEL $$ Bleecker St; 4/6 to Astor Pl) Rising above the East Village like an unfurled sail, Cooper Map p416 (%646-429-9184; www.eastvillageho- Sq’s gleaming white structure looms strik- tel.com; 147 First Ave, at 9th St; d from $270; ingly out of place in low-rise East Village aW; b6 to Astor Pl) In a vibrant location in – even with the ersatz graffiti wall its de- the East Village, this place has clean, sim- signers placed at the entrance. For a more ple rooms with exposed brick walls, comfy authentic glimpse at the old East Village, mattresses, wall-mounted flat-screen TVs head to the outdoor patio bars. From there and small kitchenettes. Street noise is an you can look right into the apartments in issue (beware, light sleepers), and it’s in an neighboring tenements – a mere 29in away. old building, so you’ll have to walk your lug- gage up a few flights. The rooms are well equipped with comfy There’s no lobby or other common areas. beds, big windows (most are floor-to-ceiling), Guests receive an access code to the door to Bluetooth audio speakers and high-end bath come and go as they please, so there’s little amenities. interaction with other guests. LUDLOW HOTEL $$ 4 West Village, Chelsea & the Meatpacking District Sle e pi n g W E S T V I L L A G E , C H E L S E A & T H E M E AT PA C K I N G D I S T R I C T Map p418 (%212-432-1818; ludlowhotel. com; 180 Ludlow St, btwn Houston & Stan- Real estate in the desirable West Village in ton Sts; d from $325; aW; bF to 2nd Ave) the Meatpacking District is the highest in Nearly a decade in the making, this 184- the city, and this plays out in hotel tariffs room boutique hotel finally opened its as well. Staying here, however, is well worth doors in 2014 to much fanfare. Rooms opening your wallet a bit wider as you’ll be are beautifully designed with unique treated to a wonderful neighborhood vibe features (some have tree-trunk night- at some of the more memorable properties stands made of petrified wood), mosaic- in town. Just a few blocks up in Chelsea, tiled bathrooms and small balconies. On you’ll find a spike in new development with the downside, the least expensive rooms are a horde of swankified properties promising tiny and extremely cramped. cutting-edge design befitting the pages of There’s a gorgeous lobby bar and outdoor a Scandinavian design magazine. Nights in patio, plus a stylish French bistro. Chelsea will ensure convenient (read: walk- able) access to boutique shopping, eating BOWERY HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ and drinking downtown. Map p416(%212-505-9100; www.theboweryhotel. com; 335 Bowery, btwn 2nd & 3rd Sts; r from $475; a iW; bF/V to Lower East Side-Second Ave; 6 to Bleecker St) Pick up your old-fashioned CHELSEA HOSTEL HOSTEL $ gold room key with its red tassel in the Map p424 (%212-647-0010; www.chelseahostel. com; 251 W 20th St, btwn Seventh & Eighth Aves; dark, hushed lobby – filled with antique vel- dm $40-80, s $75-100, d from $130; a iW; vet chairs and faded Persian rugs – then fol- low the mosaic floors to your room. There bA/C/E, 1/2 to 23rd St, 1/2 to 18th St) Occupy- ing some serious real estate in the desirable you can dock your iPod, use the wi-fi, check Chelsea neighborhood, this old bastion of out the 42in plasma, watch some DVDs, or raid your bathroom goodies (courtesy of CO backpackerdom is a good pick if location ranks at the top of your list. Walkable to Bigelow). the Village and Midtown, Chelsea Hostel Rooms have huge factory windows with unobstructed views, simple white spreads capitalizes on its convenience with some- what steep prices, but it’s kept clean (even with red piping, and elegant four-poster a tad sterile at times) and there’s access to beds. The Bowery’s zinc-topped bar, out- side garden patio, and rustic Italian eatery, common rooms and kitchens where other budget travelers often meet and hang. Gemma, are always packed. STANDARD EAST VILLAGE HOTEL $$$ JANE HOTEL HOTEL $ Map p416(%212-475-5700; www.standardhotels. Map p420 (%212-924-6700; www.thejanenyc. com; 113 Jane St, btwn Washington St & West Side com; 25 Cooper Sq (Third Ave), btwn 5th & 6th Sts; Hwy; r with shared/private bath from $115/275; r from $475; aW; bN/R to 8th St-NYU; 4/6 to p aW; bL to Eighth Ave; A/C/E to 14th St; 1/2 to

337 Christopher St-Sheridan Sq) The claustropho- INCENTRA VILLAGE HOUSE B&B $$ bic will want to avoid the Jane’s tiny 50-sq- ft rooms, but if you can stomach living like Map p420 (%212-206-0007; www.incentravil- a luxury sailor, check into this renovated lage.com; 32 Eighth Ave, btwn 12th & Jane Sts; r red-brick gem, which was built for mariners from $259; aW; bA/C/E to 14th St; L to Eighth in the early 20th century (survivors from Ave) Boasting a great location in the West the Titanic also stayed here in 1912). Village, these two red-brick, landmark townhouses were built in 1841 and later be- The small cabin rooms have shared came the city’s first gay-friendly inn. Today, bathrooms; the more expensive captain’s the 11 rooms get booked way in advance; quarters come with private commodes. The call early to get in on its gorgeous Victorian gorgeous ballroom/bar looks like it belongs parlor and antique-filled, serious-America- in a five-star hotel. The excellent but afford- na rooms. The Garden Suite has access to able Cafe Gitane is here as well. a small garden in back and there’s wi-fi ac- cess in the parlor. LARCHMONT HOTEL HOTEL $ Map p420 (%212-989-9333; www.larchmontho- TOWNHOUSE INN OF CHELSEA B&B $$ tel.com; 27 W 11th St, btwn Fifth & Sixth Aves; s/d Map p424 (%212-414-2323; www.townhousein- with shared bath from $130/150; aW; b4/5/6, N/Q/R to 14th St-Union Sq) Housed in a pre- nchelsea.com; 131 W 23rd St, btwn Sixth & Sev- Sleeping WEST VILLAGE, CHELSEA & THE MEATPACKING DISTRICT  enth Aves; r from $350; aW; bF/V, 1 to 23rd St) war building that blends in with the other Housed in a lone 19th-century, five-story fine brownstones on the block, a stay at the townhouse on busy 23rd St, this 14-room Larchmont is all about location. The car- B&B is a Chelsea gem. Bought in 1998 and peted rooms are basic and in need of updat- extensively renovated by the Fisherman ing, as are the communal bathrooms, but family (who wisely installed an elevator), it’s still a good deal for the price. the rooms are big and welcoming, with fan- ciful fabrics on big brass or poster beds and COLONIAL HOUSE INN B&B $$ TVs held in huge armoires. Map p424 (%212-243-9669, 800-689-3779; There’s an honor-system bar and an ol’ www.colonialhouseinn.com; 318 W 22nd St, btwn Eighth & Ninth Aves; r $150-350; aW; bC/E to piano for you to play boogie-woogie on in the lounge, and a 2nd-floor, all-Victorian li- 23rd St) Friendly and simple, this 20-room brary that doubles as a breakfast room. gay-friendly inn is tidy but a bit worn and small. Most rooms have small walk-in clos- HÔTEL AMERICANO HOTEL $$$ ets (with a small TV and refrigerator) and Map p424 (%212-216-0000; www.hotel-ameri- sinks. When the weather is nice, the roof- cano.com; 518 W 27th St, btwn Tenth & Eleventh top deck sees some nude sunbathing. The Aves; r from $385; aWs;bA/C/E to 23rd St) smaller rooms have shared baths, while the Design geeks will go giddy when they walk deluxe suite has a private bath and private into one of Hôtel Americano’s perfectly pol- access to the back garden. ished rooms. It’s like sleeping in a bento box, but the food’s been replaced by a carefully CHELSEA PINES INN B&B $$ curated selection of minimalist and muted Map p420 (%212-929-1023, 888-546-2700; furniture. Oh, and that thing hanging from www.chelseapinesinn.com; 317 W 14th St, btwn Eighth & Ninth Aves; s/d from $229/269; aW; the ceiling that looks like a robot’s head? It’s a suspended fireplace, of course. Other bA/C/E to 14th St; L to Eighth Ave) With its accoutrements await, from Turkish towels five walk-up floors coded to the rainbow flag, the 26-room Chelsea Pines is serious to Japanese washing cloths, and all controls are activated by your personal iPad. When gay-and-lesbian central, but guests of all you’re ready to venture from your museum- stripes are welcome. It helps to be up on your Hitchcock beauties, as vintage movie eqsue cocoon, explore surrounding Chelsea on a guest bike. There’s also a rooftop deck posters not only plaster the walls but rooms with a small pool. are named for starlets such as Kim Novak, Doris Day and Ann-Margret. STANDARD BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ There’s a sink in the walk-in closet of Map p420 (%212-645-4646; www.standardho- standard rooms, with clean bathrooms tels.com; 848 Washington St, at 13th St; r from down the hall. The small lounge downstairs $521; aW; bA/C/E to 14th St; L to Eighth Ave) opens to a tiny courtyard out back. Hipster hotelier André Balazs has built

338 L to Eighth Ave; 1 to 18th St) The Dream Down- a wide, boxy, glass tower that straddles town is a looming behemoth that sinks its the High Line. Every room has sweeping circle-themed footprint deep in the heart of Meatpacking District views and is filled Chelsea. The metallic facade is punctuated with cascading sunlight, which makes the by portholes that look like the windows Standard’s glossy, wood-framed beds and of Captain Nemo’s would-be space ves- marbled bathrooms glow in a particularly sel; a generous smattering of ellipses echo homey way. There’s also a hyper-modern throughout, including bedroom walls and Standard (p336) in the East Village. the subtle tiling of the narrow pool – a re- The amenities are first-rate, with a buzz- freshing oasis on unbearable summer days. ing German beer garden and a brasserie at street level (and ice rink in winter), and a Ample public space is a priority here, plush nightclub on the top floor. The loca- which takes the shape of several cocktail tion is unbeatable, with the best of NYC lounges and restaurants that attract week- right outside your door. enders in the know. HOTEL GANSEVOORT LUXURY HOTEL $$$ Map p420 (%212-206-6700; www.hotelgan- 4 Union Square, Flatiron sevoort.com; 18 Ninth Ave, at 13th St; r from District & Gramercy Sleeping U N I O N S Q U A R E , F L AT I R O N D I S T R I C T & G R A M E R C Y $450; aWs#; bA/C/E, 1/2/3 to 14th St; L to Eighth Ave) Coated in zinc-colored panels Countless visitors lay their weary heads the 14-floor Gansevoort has been a swank under the blinding lights of Times Square swashbuckler of the Meatpacking District for convenience, but consider for a second since it opened in 2004. Rooms are lus- that Union Square and its neighbors are cious and airy, with fudge-colored suede just as handy. A quick glance at the subway headboards, plasma-screen TVs and illumi- map will show a handful of lines that criss- nated bathroom doors. Rooftop bar Plunge cross in this busy downtown hub – you’re a attracts long lines up top and guests swim straight shot to Lower Manhattan and the in the skinny pool overlooking the Hudson museums on the Upper East Side, with the River. adorable nooks of the Village at your door- There’s also a street-level restaurant and step. The area’s slumber options are varied a very swanky cocktail lounge/nightclub and eclectic, ranging from the high-priced called Provacateur. chic-boutique to a few shared-bathroom, penny-saving options. MARITIME HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ Map p424 (%212-242-4300; www.themaritime- CARLTON ARMS HOTEL $ hotel.com; 363 W 16th St, btwn Eighth & Ninth Aves; r from $425; aW; bA/C/E to 14th St; L Map p426 (%212-679-0680; www.carltonarms. com; 160 E 25th St, at Third Ave; d with shared/ to Eighth Ave) This white tower dotted with private bath $120/150; aW; b6 to 23rd St or portholes has been transformed into a marine-themed luxury inn by a hip team of 28th St) If only these walls could talk… The Carlton Arms has gone through many in- architects. It feels like a luxury Love Boat carnations during its 100 years as a hotel, inside, as its 135 rooms, each with their own round window, are compact and teak- from nights of subterfuge (the lobby was a speakeasy during Prohibition) to days paneled, with gravy in the form of 20in flat- of dereliction (as a refuge for addicts and screen TVs and DVD players. The most expensive quarters feature prostitutes in the 1960s). These days the Carlton Arms feels equal parts art gallery outdoor showers, a private garden and and budget hotel. sweeping Hudson views. The building was originally the site of the National Maritime Artwork adorns the interiors, with mu- rals following the walls up five flights of Union headquarters (and then a shelter for stairs, and into each of the tiny guest rooms homeless teens). and shared bathrooms (there is a small sink in each guest room). Not surprisingly, it DREAM DOWNTOWN HOTEL $$$ draws an eclectic mix of Bohemian travel- Map p424 (%212-229-2559; www.dreamdown- ers, who don’t mind the rustic accommoda- town.com; 355 W 16th St, btwn Eighth & Ninth Aves; r from $535; aWs; bA/C/E to 14th St; tions in exchange for big savings. Prepare to work those legs: there’s no lift.

WYNDHAM GARDEN HOTEL $$ 339 paneling and red suede rugs and chairs Map p426 (%212-243-0800; www.wyndham.com; greet you in the lobby, while the rooms – 37 W 24th St, btwn Fifth & Sixth Aves; r from $280; overlooking nearby Gramercy Park – deliv- aW; bF/M, N/R to 23rd St) Nearly equidistant er customized oak furnishings, 400-count from Chelsea and Union Square, the Wynd- Italian linens, and big, feather-stuffed mat- ham’s colorful checked entrance fits in with tresses on sprawling beds. Colors are rich the uniqueness of its surrounding neighbor- and alluring, fit for a Spanish grandee. hoods. The whimsy disappears once you’re inside, it’s beige walls, taupe carpet and The largest rooms – sprawling suites plain work stations typical of a chain hotel. with French doors dividing living and Despite this and the somewhat poor sound- sleeping areas – start at $800. Add zest proofing, it’s a fantastic location and has free to your life with drinks at the celebrity- wi-fi, clean rooms and helpful staff. studded Rose and Jade bars, and dinner at Maialino (p167), Danny Meyer’s rustic Ital- MARCEL AT GRAMERCY BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ ian eatery. Map p426 (%212-696-3800; www.themarcelat- gramercy.com; 201 E 24th St, at Third Ave; r from 4 Midtown Sleeping M I D T O W N $300; a iW; b6 to 23rd St) The minimalist, 97-room Marcel is a poor-man’s chic bou- If you want to be in the heart of the action, tique, and that’s not a bad thing. Rooms consider Midtown East, which encompass- are simple yet modern, their grey-and-beige es the area around Grand Central Terminal color scheme shaken up by bold, canary- and the UN. It’s not as crazy and eclectic yellow Chesterfield bedheads. Bathrooms as Midtown West, but options are endless, are uninspired but clean, while rooms on from a design-conscious ‘budget’ option the avenue have decent views. Downstairs, with shared bathrooms to thousand-dollar the sleek lounge makes for a nifty place to suites with private terraces overlooking unwind from a day of touring. Room wi-fi Gotham’s blinking lights. Light sleepers be- is an extra $10 per day. ware – Midtown West is a 24-hour kind of place, though it’s especially convenient for HOTEL 17 HOTEL $$ Broadway fans. Map p426 (%212-475-2845; www.hotel17ny. com; 225 E 17th St, btwn Second & Third Aves; PARK SAVOY HOTEL $ d with shared bath from $150; aW; bN/Q/R, Map p432 (%212-245-5755; www.parksavoyny. 4/5/6 to 14th St-Union Sq, L to Third Ave) Right off Stuyvesant Sq, this popular, eight-floor com; 158 W 58th St, btwn Sixth & Seventh Aves; d from $145; aW; bN/Q/R to 57th St-7th Ave) townhouse is where Woody Allen shot a The best thing about the Park Savoy is the frightening dead-body scene for his film low price and nifty location near the lovely Manhattan Murder Mystery (1993). The gateway of Central Park. More money saved 120 rooms are small and basic, with old- on lodgings means more to spend at near- school chintzy furnishings and a lack of by Fifth Ave boutiques and top Broadway natural light, and only four have private shows. Naturally, there is a trade-off and bathrooms (but all are free of dead bodies). that’s the rooms: worn carpets, cheap bed- If this place is booked, ask about its sister spreads, and showers with trickling water property in Midtown, Hotel 31 (Map p428; pressure, to say nothing of the unhelpful %212-685-3060; www.hotel31.com; 120 E 31st staff. St, btwn Lexington & Park Aves, Midtown East; d with private/shared bathroom from $199/159; oCITIZEN M HOTEL $$ aW; bN/R, 6 to 28th St). Map p432 (%212-461-3638; www.citizenm. com; 218 W 50th St, btwn Broadway & Eighth oGRAMERCY Ave, Midtown West; r from $246; aW; b1, C/E PARK HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ to 50th St) A few steps from Times Square, Map p426 (%212-920-3300; www.gramercypark- Citizen M is a true millennial. Speedy self- hotel.com; 2 Lexington Ave, at 21st St; r from $500; aW; b6, N/R to 23rd St) Formerly a grand service counters provide lightning-fast check-in and check-out, communal areas old dame, the Gramercy’s major face-lift are upbeat, contemporary and buzzing, has it looking young and sexy. Dark wood and rooms are smart and compact. A tablet

340 Wi-fi is included in a somewhat cheeky in each controls lighting, blinds and room $25 facilities fee, which also includes access temperature, and the plush mattresses, to the fitness center and unlimited local free movies and soothing rain showers and domestic long-distance calls. keep guests purring. On-site perks include gym, rooftop bar and 24-hour canteen. HOTEL ELYSÉE BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ oYOTEL HOTEL $$ Map p428 (%212-753-1066; www.elyseehotel. com; 60 E 54th St, btwn Madison & Park Aves, Mid- Map p432 (%646-449-7700; www.yotel.com; 570 town East; r from $207; a iW; bE/M to Lex- Tenth Ave, at 41st St, Midtown West; r from $130; aW; bA/C/E to 42nd St-Port Authority Bus Ter- ington Ave-53rd St; 6 to 51st St) Adorned with antiques and classic detailing, this intimate minal; 1/2/3, N/Q/R, S, 7 to Times Sq-42nd St) hotel has been bedding the famous and fab- Part futuristic spaceport, part Austin Pow- ers set, this uber-cool 669-room option bas- ulous since 1926. Come evening, star-spot over complimentary wine and cheese in the es its rooms on airplane classes: Premium lounge, or in the deco-glam Monkey Bar Cabin (Economy), First Cabins (Business) and VIP Suites (First); some First Cabins restaurant, co-owned by Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter and featured in both Mad and VIP Suites include a private terrace Men and Sex and the City. with hot tub. Small but cleverly configured, Sle e pi n g M I D T O W N Premium Cabins include automated adjust- There’s no gym on-site, but passes to NY Sports Club are complimentary. able beds, while all cabins feature floor- to-ceiling windows with killer views, slick bathrooms and iPod connectivity. HOTEL PENNSYLVANIA HOTEL $$ Perks include free morning muffins, a Map p432 (%212-736-5000; www.hotelpenn. com; 401 Seventh Ave, at 33rd St, Midtown West; gym and the city’s largest outdoor hotel ter- d from $229; aW; b1/2/3 to Penn Station- race, complete with a stunning skyscraper backdrop (naturally). 34th St) When it opened in 1919, the Hotel Pennsylvania was the largest hotel in the world. Although it’s lost its title (and much IVY TERRACE B&B $$ of its luster), this place still feels vast, with Map p428 (%516-662-6862; www.ivyterrace. a seemingly endless maze of guestrooms com; 230 E 58th St, btwn Second & Third Aves, Mid- town East; r from $225; aW; b4/5/6 to 59th St; spread across 18 floors. Despite not having the most comfortable beds in town, rooms N/Q/R to Lexington Ave-59th St) Especially pop- are adequate and fair value, with some of- ular with couples, Ivy Terrace is a criminal- ly charming B&B. The spacious, Victorian- fering views of the Empire State Building. inspired rooms cozily combine elegant ROW NYC HOTEL $$ drapes, antique furniture (the Rose Room features a canopy bed), hardwood floors Map p432 (%212-869-3600; rownyc.com; 700 Eighth Ave, btwn 44th & 45th Sts, Midtown West; and kitchens with breakfast supplies. One d from $223; aW; bA/C/E to 42nd St-Port of the suites even has a flagstone balcony. There’s a three-night minimum stay (some- Authority Bus Terminal) In the heart of the theater district, Row NYC serves up slick, times five to seven nights), and no elevator. contemporary rooms with minimal space Its location is just east of the Midtown fray but close to Bloomingdales and the mega and tiny bathrooms. It’s a big hotel, with a noisy lobby, so not ideal for those seeking shopping strips of Madison and Fifth Aves. solitude. On the other hand, if you can score PARK CENTRAL HOTEL $$ a deal, it’s a decent mid-range option – particularly if you’re hankering for quick Map p432 (%212-247-8000; www.parkcentralny. access to Times Square and Broadway. com; 870 Seventh Ave, btwn 55th & 56th Sts, Mid- town West; d from $270; aW; bN/Q/R to 57th St- As elsewhere in this part of town, street noise is a problem on the lower levels. 7thAve) Close to Carnegie Hall, Broadway and Central Park, the Park Central is positively massive (761 rooms!), a fact that becomes POD 39 HOTEL $$ apparent in the sometimes lengthy waits Map p428 (%212-865-5700; www.thepodhotel. com; 145 E 39th St, btwn Lexington & Third Aves, for an elevator. Following a multimillion- Midtown East; r from $240; aW; bS, 4/5/6, 7 dollar overhaul in 2013, the hotel is in good nick, though some rooms still seem a bit to Grand Central-42nd St) It’s a case of good things coming in very small packages at dated with cramped bathrooms, and service funky Pod 39. The sibling of budget-luxe is hit or miss.

Pod 51, its 366 rooms offer hip-n-functional 341 design, private bathroom and city views in town East; d from $254; aW; b6 to 51st St) Pod’s trademark tiny dimensions. Crank- Popular for its occasional deals, this Resi- ing up the millennial cred is a Technicolor dence Inn offers no surprises to those fa- taqueria, eclectic lobby lounge, light-strung miliar with the Marriott brand. Rooms are rooftop bar, and games room (complete clean, comfortable and in good condition, with oh-so-retro ping-pong table). with serviceable kitchenettes (a big draw for families). Some quarters, however, are POD 51 HOTEL $$ cramped and rather gloomy, so try to take a look before committing. Map p428 (%212-355-0300; www.thepodhotel. com; 230 E 51st St, btwn Second & Third Aves, Mid- The extensive breakfast buffet gets town East; r with shared/private bathroom from crowded – go early to score a seat (and plan $175/255; aW; b6 to 51st St; E/M to Lexington on sometimes lengthy waits for the eleva- Ave-53rd St) A dream come true for folks who tor in the morning). Take advantage of the would like to live inside their iPod – or at complimentary ear plugs if sleeping on the least curl up and sleep with it – this afford- lower floors. able hot spot has a range of room types, ECONO LODGE BUDGET HOTEL $$ most barely big enough for the bed. ‘Pods’ Map p432 (%212-246-1991; www.econolodget- Sleeping MIDTOWN  imessquare.com; 302 W 47th St, at Eighth Ave, Mid- have bright bedding, tight workspaces, flat- town West; r from $195; aW; bC/E to 50th St; screen TVs, iPod docking stations and ‘rain- drop’ showerheads. In the warmer months, N/Q/R to 49th St) A budget option only steps sip a drink on the perky rooftop deck. away from the Times Square action, Econo Lodge has a small, no-frills lobby that leads MURRAY HILL EAST SUITES HOTEL $$ to small, no-frills rooms. Some have dou- Map p428 (%212-661-2100; murrayhillsuites. ble beds and can hold four, and others are com; 149 E 39th St, btwn Lexington & Third Aves, Midtown East; r from $130; aW; b4/5/6, 7 to kings, with just enough room to squeeze in an armoire and A decent-sized bathroom. Grand Central) The dated brick facade is a When the rates come down in off-season, suitable introduction to the rooms, where the prices are more in line with the hotel’s uninspiring furniture and carpet page the offerings. eras of flares and shoulder pads. If you can overlook the design shortcomings, you’ll oNOMAD HOTEL enjoy remarkably spacious quarters, with BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ separate sitting areas and kitchenettes. A Map p428 (%212-796-1500; www.thenomadhotel. com; 1170 Broadway, at 28th St, Midtown West; r plethora of great eating and drinking op- from $479; aW; bN/R to 28th St) Crowned by tions are nearby. The catch: a minimum a copper turret and featuring interiors de- 30-day stay. signed by Frenchman Jacques Garcia, this beaux-arts dream is one of the city’s hot- SETON HOTEL HOTEL $$ test addresses. Rooms channel a nostalgic Map p428 (%212-889-5301; www.setonhotelny. NYC-meets-Paris aesthetic, in which recy- com; 144 E 40th St, btwn Lexington & Third Aves, Midtown East; d from $232; a iW; b4/5/6, 7 cled hardwood floors, leather-steam-trunk minibars and clawfoot tubs mix it with to Grand Central-42nd St) Near Grand Central flat-screen TVs and high-tech LED lighting. Terminal, the Seton Hotel offers a range of clean, modern rooms that are generally Wi-fi is free, while in-house restaurant/bar NoMad is one of the neighborhood’s most good value. On the downside, some quar- coveted hangouts. ters are rather dark, and street noise (and poorly soundproofed doors) can be a prob- oKNICKERBOCKER lem for light sleepers. As to be expected at BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ these prices, the rooms are quite small. The Map p432 (%212-204-4980; theknickerbocker. com; 6 Times Sq, at 42nd St; d from $515; aW; location in the heart of Midtown Manhat- bN/Q/R, S, 1/2/3, 7 to Times Sq-42nd St) Origi- tan, however, is excellent. nally opened in 1906 by John Jacob Astor, the 330-room Knickerbocker is back in busi- RESIDENCE INN NEW YORK ness after a luxurious, $240-million refur- bishment. Unlike its Times Square location, MANHATTAN/MIDTOWN EAST HOTEL $$ the place exudes a restrained, monochro- Map p428 (%212-980-1003; www.marriott.com; matic elegance. Rooms are dashingly chic, 148 E 48th St, btwn Lexington & Third Aves, Mid-

342 with more ‘cred’ than ‘coins,’ there are ‘mini’ hushed and modern, decked out with ad- and ‘bunk’ rooms (with bunk beds), both of justable 55-inch flat-screen TV, bedside tab- which can slip under $200 in winter. let and USB charging ports. Carrara-marble bathrooms come with a spacious shower, The Ace vibe is upbeat and fun, with a with some offering standalone tub. hipster-packed lobby serving up live bands Hotel facilities include a sophisticated and DJs, superlative espresso bar Stump- lounge, cocktail bar and Modern American town Coffee Roasters (p201) and two of the noshery, as well as a fabulous rooftop bar, area’s top nosh spots – turf-centric Breslin complete with bookable private nooks, ci- Bar & Dining Room (Map p428; %212-679- gars and nightly DJs. 1939; www.thebreslin.com; 16 West 29th St, btwn Broadway & Fifth Ave; lunch mains $16-24, dinner oPLAZA LUXURY HOTEL $$$ mains $23-37; h7am-midnight; bN/R to 28th St) and surf-centric John Dory Oyster Bar Map p428 (%212-759-3000, 888-850-0909; (p195). www.theplaza.com; 768 Fifth Ave, at Central Park S; r from $875; aW; bN/R to Fifth Ave- 59th St) Suitably set in a landmark French oQUIN LUXURY HOTEL $$$ Renaissance–style building, the iconic Pla- Map p432 (%212-245-7846; www.thequinhotel. za’s 282 guestrooms are a regal affair, with com; 101 W 57th St, at Sixth Ave, Midtown West; Sleeping MIDTOWN sumptuous Louis XV–style furniture and d from $492; aW; bF to 57th St) Opened to 24-carat gold-plated bathroom faucets. On- much acclaim in late 2013, the Quin de- site drawcards include the wine-therapy livers opulence with a dash of new-school Caudelié Spa and fabled Palm Court, the verve. Its beautiful, slinky common ar- latter famed for its stained-glass ceiling eas are anything but ‘common’ – the hotel and afternoon tea. Less enticing is the ho- lounge comes complete with 15ft video wall tel’s $14.95 wi-fi surcharge. for showcasing art installations. Rooms are quiet, exceedingly comfortable and oANDAZ FIFTH AVENUE BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ elegantly restrained, with custom-made, king-sized Duxiana beds, svelte marble Map p428 (%212-601-1234; newyork.5thavenue. bathrooms with glass-enclosed shower, and andaz.hyatt.com; 485 Fifth Ave, at 41st St, Mid- Nespresso machines. town East; r from $465; aW; bS, 4/5/6 to Grand Central-42nd St; 7 to Fifth Ave; B/D/F/M oFOUR SEASONS LUXURY HOTEL $$$ to 42nd St-Bryant Park) Youthful, chic An- daz ditches stuffy reception desks for Map p428 (% 212-758-5700; www.fourseasons. hip, mobile staff who check you in on com/newyork; 57 E 57th St, btwn Madison & Park iPads in the art-laced lobby. The hotel’s Aves, Midtown East; r from $825; aW;bN/Q/R 184 rooms are svelte and contemporary, to Fifth Ave-59th St) Housed in a 52-floor with NYC-inspired details like ‘Fash- tower designed by IM Pei, the five-star Four ion District’ rolling racks and subway- Seasons delivers seamless luxury. Even the inspired lamps. We especially love the sexy, smallest of the neutrally hued rooms are spacious bathrooms, complete with rain generously sized, with spacious closets and showers, black porcelain foot baths and HD TVs in the Tuscan-marble bathrooms. Beekman 1802 amenities. The views over Central Park from the ‘Park View’ rooms are practically unfair, with It also has a ‘secret’ basement bar serving oohs and aahs also induced by the hotel’s limited-edition spirits and locavore-focused esteemed spa. dishes, and regular talks by guest artists and curators. Check the website for special deals. ROYALTON BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ oACE HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ Map p428 (%212-869-4400; www.royalton.com; 44 W 44th St, btwn Fifth & Sixth Aves, Midtown Map p428 (%212-679-2222; www.acehotel.com/ East; d from $374; aW; bB/D/F/M to 42nd St- newyork; 20 W 29th St, btwn Broadway & Fifth Ave, Midtown West; r from $329; aW; bN/R to Bryant Park) This modern-classic creation by Ian Schrager and Philippe Starck makes a 28th St) A hit with cashed-up creatives, the grand introduction with its mahogany-rich Ace’s standard and deluxe rooms recall upscale bachelor pads – plaid bedspreads, lobby, laced with African art. Up the dark hallways are mid-size rooms with short, quirky wall stencils, leather furnishings and wide beds and soft, muted, pastel-hued fur- fridges. Some even have Gibson guitars and turntables. All have free wi-fi. For cool kids nishings. Some rooms have circular ‘soak-

ing tubs,’ deluxe rooms feature a fireplace, 343 and there’s an iPad in every room. There’s a 42nd St) Beyond the plush and cozy lobby fitness center to boot. lounge, adorned with a limestone fireplace, this slumber number offers 205 slinky LONDON NYC LUXURY HOTEL $$$ rooms packed with state-of-the-art technol- ogy (including great sound systems); comfy Map p432 (%212-307-5000; www.thelondonnyc. plush beds featuring Frette linens; and a com; 151 W 54th St, btwn Sixth & Seventh Aves, palate of black, white, purple and chrome. Midtown West; ste from $349; aW; bB/D, E to Adjoining rooms can be turned into large Seventh Ave) This sophisticated hotel salutes suites for families. Pets are welcome, staff the British capital in savvy ways, including are friendly and spa treatments are offered a silk-stitched tapestry of Hyde Park (or is in-room. Bliss. it Central Park?) in the lobby, a restaurant by Gordon Ramsay, and complimentary REFINERY HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ calls to London. But the real draw is the Map p428 (%646-664-0310; www.refineryho- huge, plush rooms – all called suites, and telnewyork.com; 63 W 38th St, btwn Sixth & Fifth all with separate bedroom and living area, Aves; d from $299; aW; bB/D/F/M to 42nd 2000-thread-count linens and spacious St-Bryant Park) What was once a hat factory bathrooms with showers for two. Ameni- is now a hip slumber spot, its 12 floors of ties include an equally sleek gym. design-literate, faintly deco rooms fusing Sle e pi n g M I D T O W N dark oak hardwood floors with custom fur- LIBRARY HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ nishings, high-tech gadgetry and walk-in Map p428 (%212-983-4500; www.libraryhotel. rain showers. Topping it off (literally) is the com; 299 Madison Ave, at 41st St, Midtown East; d from $240; aW; bS, 4/5/6, 7 to Grand Central- fabulous rooftop bar, a great spot to sip a martini with one eye on the Empire State 42nd St) With hushed reading rooms and a Building. gentlemen’s club atmosphere, this elegant, bookish oasis dedicates each floor to one of Last but not least is the location: a short stroll from atmospheric Bryant Park and the major categories of the Dewey Decimal the dazzle of Broadway theaters. System: Social Sciences, Literature, Phi- losophy and so on, with over 6000 volumes PIERRE LUXURY HOTEL $$$ split up between quarters. Rooms are petite Map p428 (%212-838-8000; www.lhw.com; 2 E yet cunningly designed with all the ameni- 61st St, at Fifth Ave, Midtown East; r from $845; ties of the larger suites, and the rooftop bar aW; bN/Q/R to Fifth Ave-59th St) Opulent, pours literary-inspired cocktails. historic and obscenely romantic, the Pierre Adding further appeal is the complimen- is a destination in itself. The lobby looks tary wi-fi, breakfast and evening wine-and- like a Gilded Age period piece, the on-site cheese sessions. restaurant (Sirio Ristorante) is owned by celebrated restaurateur Sirio Maccioni, and MUSE NEW YORK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ the spacious rooms (in muted tones with Map p432 (%212-485-2400; www.themusehotel. delicate accent colors) beckon with wide com; 130 W 46th St, btwn Sixth & Seventh Aves, Midtown West; d from $419; aW; bB/D/F/M beds, sweeping views of Central Park (at the hotel’s front door) and decadent, full-size to 47th-50th Sts-Rockefeller Ctr) Near the epi- bathrooms. center of the theater district, the Muse is a shimmering 200-room high-rise brought The Pierre’s 49 suites have gracious sitting areas – some with fireplaces and antique to you by the Kimpton group, famed for its desks for business – that are both lavish boutique hotels. The rooms set up a svelte, sultry vibe with their silvery, blue-gray and tranquil, and the on-site spa beckons with treatments based on traditional Indian color scheme, luxurious beds and high-end teachings, herbs and oils. Wi-fi will set you furnishings. Staff are generally helpful and added perks include evening wine recep- back $12.95 per day. tion, complimentary bike usage and in- RITZ-CARLTON LUXURY HOTEL $$$ room spa services. Map p432 (%212-308-9100; www.ritzcarlton. com; 50 Central Park S, at Sixth Ave; r from $995; HOTEL $$$ aW; bN/Q/R to 57th St-Seventh Ave; F to 57th 70 PARK Map p428 (%212-973-2400; www.70parkave. St) Pure, unadulterated luxury: this land- com; 70 Park Ave, at 38th St, Midtown East; r from $259; aW#; bS, 4/5/6, 7 to Grand Central- mark building comes with views of Central Park so epic you almost can’t see New York.

344 turing great East River views, the Bentley All 259 rooms feature French colonial un- overlooks FDR Dr, as far east as you can go. dertones, with tasseled armchairs, beauti- Formerly an office building, the hotel has ful inlaid-tile bathrooms and loads of space shed its utilitarian past in the form of chic for your countless Louis Vuitton cases, dah- boutique-hotel stylings, a swanky lobby and hhling. Park-view rooms come with a Birds sleek rooms. The downside of staying here of New York field guide set by a telescope. is the long walk to subway, restaurants and The hotel’s Auden Bistro offers modern other essentials. takes on classic bistro fare, while the high- end spa will pamper and polish you with La 1871 HOUSE HISTORIC HOTEL $$ Prairie products. Unfortunately, room wi-fi will set you back $14.95 per day. Map p434 (%212-756-8823; www.1871house. com; 130 E 62nd St, btwn Park & Lexington Aves; r from $285; aW; bN/Q/R to Lexington Ave- 4 Upper East Side 59th St) Named for the year it was built, this historic home now serves as a quaint five- The Upper East Side contains some of the room inn. Each unit (including two multi- wealthiest zip codes in the country, so ac- room suites) is like a mini-apartment, with commodations aren’t cheap. But that’s the a kitchenette, private bath, queen beds, Sleeping UPPER EAST SIDE price you pay for being walking distance working fireplace and period-style furnish- from some of New York’s grandest cultural ings. All the rooms are light-filled, with airy attractions. 12ft ceilings, while the suites, on the upper floors, can sleep up to five. BUBBA & BEAN LODGES B&B $$ This is a good-value place for the neigh- Map p434 (%917-345-7914; www.bblodges.com; borhood. But note that this is a character- 1598 Lexington Ave, btwn 101st & 102nd Sts; r $190-280; aW; b6 to 103rd St) Owners Jona- ful, vintage structure: there is no elevator, the floors are a bit creaky, and in winter, than and Clement have turned a charming heat is provided by steam radiators. Break- Manhattan townhouse into an excellent home-away-from-home. The five guest fast costs extra. rooms are simply furnished, with crisp, THE MARK HOTEL $$$ white walls, hardwood floors and navy Map p434 (%212-744-4300; www.themarkhotel. com; 25 E 77th St, at Madison Ave; d from $725; linens, providing the place with a modern, aW; b6 to 77th St) French designer Jacques youthful feel. All units are equipped with private baths as well as kitchenettes. Grange left his artful mark on The Mark with bold geometric shapes and rich, play- THE FRANKLIN HOTEL $$ ful forms that greet visitors in the lobby Map p434 (%800-607-4009, 212-369-1000; (the zebra-striped marble floor is pure eye www.franklinhotel.com; 164 E 87th St, btwn Lex- ington & Third Aves; r from $260; aW; b4/5/6 candy). Upstairs, the beautifully renovated rooms and suites boast a more subdued aes- to 86th St) Fronted by a classic red-and-gold thetic, though equally embracing of high awning, this long-time spot channels a 1930s feel – starting with the vintage el- style. Light and airy rooms are set with cof- evator. As with many old-timey New York fered ceilings, fine Italian linens and el- spots, the rooms and bathrooms are tiny. But the decor is modern, the staff congenial egant custom-made furnishings. Touch- screen panels control temperature, the and the location couldn’t be more ideal – lighting scheme and sound, which comes walking distance from Central Park and many museums. courtesy of Bang & Olufsen. Black-and- white-tiled bathrooms have more than a In addition, wine and cheese are served whiff of art deco (and there’s a separate in the evenings. Rooms facing the back are quieter. shower and soaking tub), though technolo- gy makes its appearance here as well – with a flat-screen TV embedded in the mirror. BENTLEY HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ On the downside, the least expensive rooms Map p434 (%212-644-6000; www.bentleyhotel- can feel small, and service can sometimes nyc.com; 500 E 62nd St, at York Ave; r from $340; aW; bN/Q/R to Lexington Ave/59th St) Fea- be a little hipper-than-thou.

4 Upper West Side & 345 Central Park Beacon has 260 units (including one- and two-bedroom suites) decorated in muted If you’re after culture, the Upper West Side shades of Pottery Barn green. The units are has obvious appeal, with celebrated theat- well-maintained and quite roomy – and all ers, cinemas and concert halls (particu- come with coffee makers and kitchenettes. larly Lincoln Center) right at your doorstep. Proximity to the lush oasis of Central Park Upper stories have views of Central Park and peaceful Riverside Park adds to the al- in the distance. A good deal. lure. Sleeping options here run the gamut from budget-minded hostels to pricey lux- HOTEL NEWTON HOTEL $$ ury hotels. Map p436 (%212-678-6500; www.thehotelnew- ton.com; 2528 Broadway, btwn 94th & 95th Sts; d from $210; aW; b1/2/3 to 96th St) The nine-story Newton isn’t going to win any interior-design awards, but it’s clean and managed well, making it a solid budget op- JAZZ ON THE PARK HOSTEL HOSTEL $ tion. The 110 guest rooms are small but tidy, Map p436 (%212-932-1600; www.jazzhostels.com; and come stocked with TVs, mini-refriger- 36 W 106th St, btwn Central Park West & Manhat- tan Ave; dm $46-70, d $155-200; aiW; bB, C to ators, coffee makers and microwaves. The bathrooms are all well-maintained. Larger Sleeping U P P E R W E S T S I D E & C E N T R A L PA R K 103rd St) This flophouse-turned-hostel right ‘suites’ are roomier and feature a sitting off of Central Park is generally a good bet, with clean dorms sporting four to 12 bunks area. Wi-fi costs extra. in co-ed and single-sex configurations. This LUCERNE HOTEL $$ is a great place to meet other travelers, with free nightly activities (comedy and movie Map p436 (%212-875-1000; www.thelucerneho- tel.com; 201 W 79th St, cnr Amsterdam Ave; d nights, pub crawls, summer barbecues). The from $281; aWc; bB, C to 81st St) This downstairs lounge, aka ‘the dungeon’, has a pool table, couches and big-screen TV. unusual 1903 structure breaks away from beaux arts in favor of the baroque with an There’s also an area for eating, an acces- ornately carved, terra-cotta-colored facade. sible rooftop and several small terraces. Inside is a stately 200-room hotel, ideal for couples and families with children (Central HOSTELLING INTERNATIONAL Park and the American Museum of Natu- NEW YORK HOSTEL $ ral History are a stone’s throw away). Nine Map p436 (HI; %212-932-2300; www.hinewyork. types of guest rooms evoke a contemporary org; 891 Amsterdam Ave, at 103rd St; dm $58-75; aW; b1 to 103rd St) This red-brick man- Victorian look. Think: flowered bedspreads, scrolled sion from the 1880s houses HI’s 672 well- headboards and plush pillows with fringe. scrubbed bunks. It’s rather 19th-century industrial, but benefits include good public Service is courteous and there is a nice French-Mediterranean restaurant on-site. areas, a backyard (that sees barbecue action in the summer), a communal kitchen and a cafe. There are loads of activities on offer, YMCA HOSTEL $$ from walking tours to club nights. There Map p436 (%212-912-2625; www.ymcanyc.org; 5 W 63rd St, at Central Park West; d $210, tr/q with are attractive private rooms with private shared bath from $170/180; a iWs; bA/C, bathrooms, too. The hostel is alcohol-free. Wi-fi throughout the building. B/D to 59th St-Columbus Circle) Just steps from Central Park, this grand art-deco build- ing has several floors – 8th to the 13th – of HOTEL BEACON HOTEL $$ basic, but clean, rooms. Guests have access Map p436 (%212-787-1100, reservations 800- to extensive, but old-school, gym, racquet- 572-4969; www.beaconhotel.com; 2130 Broad- way, btwn 74th & 75th Sts; d from $315; Wc; ball courts, pool and sauna. There’s wi-fi on the ground floor. Four other YMCAs b1/2/3 to 72nd St) Adjacent to the Beacon in town offer accommodation, including Theatre (p243), this family favorite offers a winning mix of attentive service, comfort- branches in Midtown, the Upper East Side and Harlem. able rooms and convenient location. The

346 NYLO HOTEL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ ALOFT HARLEM HOTEL $$ Map p436 (%212-362-1100; www.nylo-nyc.com; Map p438 (%212-749-4000; www.aloftharlem. 2178 Broadway, at 77th St; r from $285; aW; com; 2296 Frederick Douglass Blvd, btwn 123rd b1 to 77th St) This modern boutique hotel & 124th Sts, Harlem; d from $235; aW; bA/C, has 285 casually stylish rooms with warm B/D, 2/3 to 125th St) Designed for younger earth tones. Niceties include plush bed- travelers, Aloft channels a W Hotel vibe but ding, wood floors, elegant lighting, roomy at a far cheaper price. Guest rooms are snug (for New York) bathrooms, coffee makers (285 sq ft) but chic, with crisp white linens, and flat-screen TVs. ‘NYLO Panoramic’ fluffy comforters and colorful, striped bol- rooms have furnished private terraces and sters. The modern bathrooms are small (no extravagant Manhattan views. The hand- tubs), but are highly functional and feature somely designed lounge and bar areas on amenities courtesy of Bliss. the ground floor are great places to decamp A basement lounge with pool tables can after a day spent exploring. Friendly service get boisterous, but it’ll be stumbling dis- and a great location. tance to your room. All around, it’s conveni- ent (the Apollo Theater and the bustling EMPIRE HOTEL HOTEL $$$ 125th St commercial district are nearby) Sleeping H A R L E M & U P P E R M A N H AT TA N Map p436 (%212-265-7400; www.empireho- and a good deal. telnyc.com; 44 W 63rd St, at Broadway; r from $370; aWs; b1 to 66th St-Lincoln Center) If ALLIE’S INN B&B $$ you’re in town for culture, you can’t beat Map p438 (%646-283-3068, 212-690-3813; this location, just across the street from the www.alliesinn.com; 313 W 136th St, btwn Frederick Lincoln Center. This old hotel was remade Douglass Blvd & Edgecombe Ave, Harlem; r from a few years back, complete with canopied $175; aW; bA/C, B to 135th St) This Harlem pool deck, sexy rooftop bar and a dimly lit charmer has just three guest rooms, all lobby lounge studded with zebra-print set- clean and comfortable, with oak floors, tees. The 400-plus rooms come in various simple modern furnishings and small configurations, and feature brightly-hued kitchen units. It’s a refreshing alternative walls with plush dark leather furnishings. to the Midtown towers and ideal for those wanting to explore Harlem’s rich culture. There’s a growing number of notable eater- 4 Harlem & Upper ies and bars in the neighborhood, and the Manhattan subway station is just around the corner. Minimum two-night stay. Harlem is home to a handful of satisfying slumber options, including graceful guest- 102 BROWNSTONE HOTEL $$ houses in historic townhouses. Map p438 (%212-222-1212; www.102brownstone. com; 102 W 118th St, btwn Malcolm X & Adam Clayton Powell Jr Blvds, Harlem; r from $157; HARLEM FLOPHOUSE GUESTHOUSE $ aW; bA/C, B, 2/3 to 116th St) This intimate Map p438 (%212-662-0678; www.harlemflop- five-room guesthouse is a charming and house.com; 242 W 123rd St, btwn Adam Clayton Powell Jr & Frederick Douglass Blvds, Harlem; r convenient spot for travelers who want to explore the city but come to a little peace with shared bath from $125; W; bA/B/C/D, 2/3 and quiet at the end of the day. All of the to 124th St) Rekindle Harlem’s Jazz Age in this 1890s townhouse, its nostalgic rooms units have antique-style furnishings, pri- vate bathrooms and mini-fridges. The Zen decked out in brass beds, polished wood suite – decorated in lemony tones – has a floors and vintage radios (set to a local jazz station). It feels like a delicious step back full kitchen and a Jacuzzi bath. in time, which also means shared bath- MOUNT MORRIS HOUSE B&B GUESTHOUSE $$ rooms, no air-con and no TVs. The owner Map p438 (%917-478-6213; www.mountmor- is a great source of local information, and rishousebandb.com; 12 Mt Morris Park W, btwn his indie rock band rehearses at the prop- 121st & 122nd Sts, Harlem; ste/apt from $175/225; erty during off-hours. Last but not least is aW; b2/3 to 116th St) Set inside a stunning friendly house cat Phoebe, who completes Gilded Age townhouse from 1888, this the homely, welcoming vibe. cozy inn offers four extravagantly spacious slumber options: a one-bedroom suite, a

two-bedroom suite and a studio apartment 347 with a fully equipped kitchen. Each one challenge, so pick an area (north or south) impresses with period-style furnishings, that offers the best proximity to the sights including four-poster beds, Persian-style you want to see. rugs and brocaded settees, not to mention fireplaces and vintage bathtubs. Breakfast oNEW YORK LOFT HOSTEL HOSTEL $ isn’t offered, though complimentary coffee, tea and cakes are available all day. Map p440 (%718-366-1351; www.nylofthostel. com; 249 Varet St, btwn Bogart & White Sts, Bush- The property is an easy walk to 125th St. wick; dm $40-85, d $140; a iW; bL to Morgan Cash preferred. Ave) This renovated 1913 warehouse build- ing in Bushwick is a good choice for urban pioneers. It has spacious, brick-lined dorms, LA MAISON D’ART GUESTHOUSE $$ with two or three beds in each. Amenities Map p438 (%718-593-4108; www.lamaisond- include a communal kitchen, a large patio artny.com; 259 W 132nd St, btwn Adam Clayton & Frederick Douglas Blvds, Harlem; r from $183; area with picnic tables and a small terrace. With loads of activities on offer – outdoor aW; b2/3 to 135th St) Situated above an barbecues, film screenings, bar crawls – art gallery, this welcoming Harlem abode harbors five comfy rooms bursting with this is a great place to meet other travelers. It’s not the prettiest part of Brooklyn, character. Each has unique features, rang- but there are plenty of good restaurants Sleeping B R O O K LY N ing from antiques and a four-poster bed to an oversize Jacuzzi bath (the lilac-painted and bars nearby. A good place to get your hipster on. walls and gold curtains in the Victorian room may not be everyone’s cup of tea). oWYTHE HOTEL Adding delight is a garden out back, perfect BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ for some low-key R&R. Map p440 (%718-460-8000; wythehotel.com; 80 Wythe Ave, at N 11th St, Williamsburg; r from $325; It’s in a classic Harlem brownstone, with aW; bL to Bedford Ave; G to Nassau Ave) Set in a decent eating and drinking options in the converted 1901 factory, the red-brick Wythe area. It’s also an easy subway ride to Mid- Hotel brings a serious dash of style to Wil- town and other Manhattan neighborhoods. liamsburg. The industrial-chic rooms have beds made from reclaimed lumber, custom- SUGAR HILL HARLEM B&B $$ made wallpaper (from Brooklyn’s own Fla- Map p438 (%212-234-5432; www.sugarhillhar- vor Paper), exposed brick, polished concrete leminn.com; 460 W 141st St, btwn Amsterdam & Convent Aves, Sugar Hill; r from $156; aW; floors and original 13ft timber ceilings. On the ground floor, Reynard dishes up bA/C, B/D to 145th St) The suites at this airy, brasserie classics in a lovely setting of tile turn-of-the-century townhouse are named after African American jazz greats. All are floors, brick walls, soaring wood ceilings and vintage fixtures. The top-floor Ides well-appointed, with antique-style furnish- Bar is a great spot for sunset cocktails, ings and private bathroom (not necessarily en suite). Most have ample bay windows, craft brews and memorable skyline views of Manhattan. while a couple also come equipped with kitchens. A few additional guest rooms are located in a second renovated townhouse MCCARREN around the corner on Convent Ave. HOTEL & POOL BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ While the three-level building lacks an Map p440 (%718-218-7500; www.chelseahotels. com; 160 N 12th St, btwn Bedford Ave & Berry elevator, it makes amends with its soothing St, Williamsburg; d from $255; aWs; bL to garden. Bedford; G to Nassau) This hipster hotel on the fringes of Williamsburg is insuffer- ably chic, offering minimalist rooms with 4 Brooklyn bamboo flooring and marble-filled bath- rooms. Pricier rooms have balconies and A short train ride across the East River and rain showers. The large saltwater pool is you’ll find bigger and (sometimes) brighter surrounded by design-conscious loungers, rooms – and a lot more bang for your buck. while the upper-level bar and lounge with retractable rooftop offers jaw-dropping Note: Brooklyn is more than 70 sq miles views of Manhattan. and transport within the borough can be a

348 vice for exploring the neighborhood and the It also has an appealing fern- and animal- city beyond. Minimum three-night stay. portrait-filled restaurant (Oleanders) and AKWAABA MANSION INN B&B $$ free bicycles for guests. BLUE PORCH B&B $$ Map p442 (%718-455-5958, 866-466-3855; Map p444 (%718-434-0557; www.blueporch- www.akwaaba.com; 347 MacDonough St, btwn nyc.com; 15 DeKoven Court, at Foster Ave & Lewis & Stuyvesant Aves, Bedford-Stuyvesant; r Rugby Rd, Ditmas Park; r from $176; W; bB/Q $195-225; aW; bA/C to Utica Ave) Sitting on to Newkirk Ave) A lovely 1904 Victorian with a tree-lined block of tidy, century-old town- two bright, airy guest rooms is located in houses in Bedford-Stuyvesant, this graceful the sleepy district of Ditmas Park (south of B&B is tucked into a sprawling mansion Prospect Park). The bathrooms are beauti- built by a local beer baron back in 1860. Pe- fully kept, the rooms have polished wood riod design flourishes include brass beds, floors and the continental breakfasts are marble fireplaces, the original parquet generous. It’s a good deal if you don’t mind floors and a screened-in wraparound porch the 40-minute trip into Manhattan. A two- – the perfect spot to settle in with a good night minimum is required. book. African textiles and vintage photographs Sle e pi n g B R O O K LY N BOX HOUSE HOTEL HOTEL $$ add a personal touch. The mansion has four Map p440 (%718-383-3800; www.thebox- roomy suites, each with private bathroom, househotel.com; 77 Box St, at McGuinness Blvd, Greenpoint; d from $300; aW; b7 to Vernon while a couple of the units have Jacuzzi tubs for two. Blvd-Jackson Ave; G to Greenpoint Ave) In an industrial stretch of North Brooklyn, this o3B hotel has inviting lofts with oak floors, 16ft B&B $$ ceilings, oversized windows, and vintage Map p446 (%347-762-2632; www.3bbrooklyn. com; 136 Lawrence St, Brooklyn; d with shared furnishings and decorations. Each loft has bathroom $184; aW; bA/C, F, R to Jay St- a lounge (and full-sized pull-out sofa) and kitchen on the main level, and a sleeping Metro Tech) S The 3rd-floor unit of this downtown Brooklyn brownstone has been area (queen-sized bed) upstairs. The price is turned into a bright and contemporary steep for the area, but you get a lot of space for your money – making it good for small four-room B&B. It has high ceilings, wood floors and comfy furnishings. On the down- groups. side: all rooms share bathroom facilities The immediate surroundings are a bit of a wasteland, but it’s a 15-minute walk (one full bathroom and one half bathroom), and street noise may be a problem for light to the buzzing eateries and drinkeries of sleepers. Greenpoint. Free shuttle service in a 1970s taxi cab is a bonus. Discounted deals for ex- It’s in a central downtown Brooklyn lo- cation, within easy walking distance of tended weekend (three-night) stays. Fort Greene, Carroll Gardens or Brooklyn SERENITY AT HOME B&B $$ Heights. Hosts are friendly and eco-mind- ed, with 100% of electricity supplied by Map p444 (%646-479-5138; www.serenityah. wind energy. Good breakfasts. com; 57 Rutland Rd, btwn Bedford & Flatbush Aves; r with shared/private bathroom for 3 nights from $250/430; aW; bB, Q, S to Prospect NU HOTEL HOTEL $$ Park) A short stroll from Prospect Park in Map p446 (%718-852-8585; www.nuhotelbrook- lyn.com; 85 Smith St; d from $280; a iW; bF, Brooklyn, this charming guesthouse is set G to Bergen St) The 93 rooms in this down- in a lovely pre-war row house. Each of four guestrooms has wooden floors, attractive town Brooklyn hotel are of the stripped- down variety, featuring lots of crisp white- furnishings and high-quality mattresses ness (sheets, walls, duvets). Furnishings are and bedding. Note that three rooms share bathrooms, while there’s one spacious room made from recycled teak and the floors are cork. For something more daring, book a with its own private bathroom (boasting a Nu Perspectives room, adorned with color- clawfoot tub no less). Zenobia, the owner, makes guests feel ful murals by Brooklyn artists. There is a small lounge and bikes are right at home, and has loads of useful ad- available. Ask for a room away from busy Atlantic Ave if you are a light sleeper.