Lonely Planet Rome

249 The Venetian Pope Paul II (r 1464−71) commissioned many works, in- cluding Palazzo Venezia (p67), Rome’s first great Renaissance palaz- zo. His successor, Sixtus IV (r 1471−84), had the Sistine Chapel built, and enlarged the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo. High Renaissance Architecture A rc h itec t u re T h e B ar o q u e Reads It was under Pope Julius II (1503−13) that the Roman Renaissance reached its peak, thanks largely to a classically minded architect from Rome: An Oxford Milan, Donato Bramante (1444−1514). Archaeological Guide (Amanda Considered the high priest of Renaissance architecture, Bramante Claridge; 2010) arrived in Rome in 1499. Here, inspired by the ancient ruins, he de- The Genius in the veloped a refined classical style that was to prove hugely influential. Design: Bernini, His 1502 Tempietto (p157), for example, perfectly illustrates his innate Borromini and the understanding of proportion. Similarly harmonious is his 1504 cloister Rivalry that Trans- at the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pace (p77) near Piazza Navona. formed Rome (Jake Morrissey; 2005) In 1506 Julius commissioned Bramante to start work on the job that Rome and Environs: would eventually finish him off – the rebuilding of St Peter’s Basilica. An Archaeologi- The fall of Constantinople’s Aya Sofya (Church of the Hagia Sofia) to cal Guide (Filippo Islam in the mid-14th century had pricked Nicholas V into ordering an Coarelli; 2008) earlier revamp, but the work had never been completed and it wasn’t until Julius took the bull by the horns that progress was made. However, Bramante died in 1514 and he never got to see how his original Greek- cross design was developed. St Peter’s Basilica (p118) occupied most of the other notable ar- chitects of the High Renaissance, including Giuliano da Sangallo (1445−1516), Baldassarre Peruzzi (1481−1536) and Antonio da Sangallo the Younger (1484−1546). Michelangelo (1475−1564) eventually took over in 1547, modifying the layout and creating the basilica’s crowning dome. Modelled on Brunelleschi’s cupola for the Duomo in Florence, this is considered the artist’s finest architectural achievement and one of the most important works of the Roman Renaissance. Mannerism Forget the Colos- seum, Rome’s As Rome’s architects strove to build a new Jerusalem, the city’s lead- largest ancient ers struggled to deal with the political tensions arising outside the city monument is walls. These came to a head in 1527 when the city was invaded and sav- the 3rd century agely routed by the troops of the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V. This Aurelian Wall. traumatic event forced many of the artists working in Rome to flee the Started by the city and ushered in a new style of artistic and architectural expression. Mannerism was a relatively short-lived form but in its emphasis on com- emperor Aurelian plexity and decoration, in contrast to the sharp, clean lines of traditional (r 270–275) and Renaissance styles, it hinted at the more ebullient designs that would completed by his arrive with the advent of the 17th-century baroque. successor Probus (r 276–282), the One of mannerism’s leading exponents was Baldassarre Peruzzi, wall circled the whose Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II re- city for a length veals a number of mannerist elements – a pronounced facade, decorative of 19km, of which window mouldings, showy imitation stonework. some 12.5km The Baroque survives intact. As the principal motor of the Roman Renaissance, the Catholic Church became increasingly powerful in the 16th century. But with power came corruption and calls for reform. These culminated in Martin Luther’s 95 Theses and the far-reaching Protestant Reformation. This hit the Church hard and prompted the Counter-Reformation (1560−1648), a vicious and sustained campaign to get people back into the Catholic fold. In the midst of this great offensive, baroque art and architecture

250 A rc h itec t u re T h e B ar o q u e ROME’S SIGNATURE BUILDINGS Rome’s cityscape is a magical mix of ruins, monuments, palaces, piazzas and churches. Here are some of the city’s most significant buildings. Colosseum (p52) Rome’s iconic arena bears the hallmarks of ancient Roman architecture: arches, the use of various building materials, unprecedented scale. Pantheon (p72) The dome, one of the Romans’ most important architectural innovations, finds perfect form atop this revolutionary structure. Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore (p139) Although much modified over the centuries, this hulking cathedral exemplifies the Christian basilicas being built in the early Middle Ages. Castel Sant’Angelo (p130) Rome’s landmark castle started life as a monumental mausoleum before taking on its current form after medieval and Renaissance revamps. Tempietto di Bramante (p157) A masterpiece of harmonious design, Bramante’s 1502 temple beautifully encapsulates High Renaissance ideals. St Peter’s Basilica (p118) Michelangelo’s dome and Carlo Maderno’s facade are the key architectural features of this, the greatest of Rome’s Renaissance churches. Chiesa del Gesù (p80) One of Rome’s finest Counter-Reformation churches with a much-copied facade by Giacomo della Porta and an ornate baroque interior. Chiesa di San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane A prized example of baroque architec- ture, Francesco Borromini’s church boasts convex and concave surfaces, hidden windows and a complex elliptical plan. Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro Nicknamed the ‘Square Colosseum’, this EUR landmark is a masterpiece of 1930s Italian rationalism. Auditorium Parco della Musica (p181) Renzo Piano’s audacious arts complex is the most influential contemporary building in Rome. MAXXI (p181)Zaha Hadid’s award-winning 2010 building provides a suitably striking setting for Rome’s flagship contemporary arts museum. emerged as a highly effective form of propaganda. Stylistically, baroque architecture aims for a dramatic sense of dynamism, an effect that it often achieves by combining spatial complexity with clever lighting and the use of flamboyant decorative painting and sculpture. One of the first great Counter-Reformation churches was the Jesuit Chiesa del Gesù (p80), designed by the leading architect of the day, Giac- omo della Porta (1533−1602). In a move away from the style of earlier Re- naissance churches, the facade has pronounced architectural elements that create a contrast between surfaces and a play of light and shade. The end of the 16th century and the papacy of Sixtus V (1585−90) marked the beginning of major urban-planning schemes. Domenico Fontana (1543−1607) and other architects created a network of major thoroughfares to connect previously disparate parts of the sprawling city and obelisks were erected at vantage points across town. Fontana also designed the main facade of Palazzo del Quirinale, the immense palace that served as the pope’s summer residence for almost three centuries. His nephew, Carlo Maderno (1556−1629), also worked on the palazzo when not amending Bramante’s designs for St Peter’s Basilica.

251 Bernini versus Borromini Key A rc h itec t u re P o s t- U n i f i c at i o n & t h e 2 0 t h C e n t u r y Borromini No two people did more to fashion the face of Rome than the two great figures of the Roman baroque – Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598–1680) and Works Francesco Borromini (1599–1667). Two starkly different characters – Naples-born Bernini was suave, self-confident and politically adept; Chiesa di San Borromini, from Lombardy, was solitary and peculiar – they led the Carlo alle Quattro transition from Counter-Reformation rigour to baroque exuberance. Fontane (Tridente, Bernini is perhaps best known for his work in the Vatican. He de- Trevi & the signed St Peter’s Square (p130), famously styling the colonnade as Quirinale) ‘the motherly arms of the Church’, and was chief architect at St Peter’s Chiesa di Basilica (p118) from 1629. While working on the basilica, he created Sant’Agnese in the baldachin (canopy) over the main altar, using bronze stripped from Agone (Centro the Pantheon. Storico) Chiesa di Sant’Ivo Under the patronage of the Barberini pope Urban VIII, Bernini was alla Sapienza given free rein to transform the city, and his churches, palazzi, piaz- (Centro Storico) zas and fountains remain landmarks to this day. However, his fortunes nose-dived when the pope died in 1644. Urban’s successor, Innocent Key X, wanted as little contact as possible with the favourites of his hat- Bernini ed predecessor, and instead turned to Borromini, Alessandro Algardi Works (1595−1654) and Girolamo and Carlo Rainaldi (1570−1655 and 1611−91, respectively). Bernini later came back into favour with his 1651 Fontana St Peter’s Square dei Quattro Fiumi in the centre of Piazza Navona, opposite Borromini’s (Vatican City, Chiesa di Sant’Agnese in Agone. Borgo & Prati) Chiesa di Borromini, the son of an architect and well versed in stonemason- Sant’Andrea al ry and construction techniques, created buildings involving complex Quirinale shapes and exotic geometry. A recurring feature of his designs was the skilful manipulation of light, often obtained by the clever placement of (Tridente, Trevi & small oval-shaped windows. His most memorable works are the Chiesa the Quirinale) di San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, which has an oval-shaped interior, Fontana dei and the Chiesa di Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza (Map p296; Corso del Rinasci- Quattro Fiumi mento 40; gCorso del Rinascimento), which combines a complex arrange- ment of convex and concave surfaces with an innovative spiral tower. (Centro Storico) Throughout their careers, the two geniuses were often at each other’s throats. Borromini was deeply envious of Bernini’s early successes, and Bernini was scathing of Borromini’s complex geometrical style. Post-Unification & the 20th Century Rome’s nomination as capital of Italy in 1870 unleashed a wave of urban development that was later to be continued by Mussolini and his fascist regime. Post-war, the focus was on practical concerns as the city worked to house its burgeoning population. A Capital Makeover Rome entered the 20th century in good shape. During the last 30 years of the 19th century it had been treated to one of its periodic makeovers – this time after being made capital of the Kingdom of Italy in 1870. Piazzas were built – Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, at the centre of a new upmarket residential district, and neoclassical Piazza della Repubblica, over Diocletian’s bath complex – and roads were laid. Via Nazionale and Via Cavour were constructed to link the city centre with the new railway station, Stazione Termini, and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II was built to connect Piazza Venezia with the Vatican.

A rc h itec t u re P o s t- U n i f i c at i o n & t h e 2 0 t h C e n t u r y252 ROCOCO FRILLS In the early days of the 18th century, as baroque fashions began to fade and neoclas- sicism waited to make its 19th-century entrance, the rococo burst into theatrical life. Drawing on the excesses of the baroque, it was a short-lived fad but one that left a memorable mark. The Spanish Steps (p98), built between 1723 and 1726 by Francesco de Sanctis, provided a focal point for the many Grand Tourists who were pouring into town in the late 18th century. A short walk to the southwest, Piazza Sant’Ignazio was designed by Filippo Raguzzini (1680−1771) to provide a suitably melodramatic setting for the Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di Loyola (p82), Rome’s second most important Jesuit church. Most spectacular of all, however, was the Trevi Fountain (p100), one of the city’s most exuberant and enduringly popular monuments. It was designed in 1732 by Nicola Salvi (1697−1751) and completed three decades later. The term Scuola Rationalism & Rebuilding romana (Roman School) is used to Influenced by the German Bauhaus movement, architectural rational- define a group of ism was all the rage in 1920s Europe. In its international form it advo- architects work- cated an emphasis on sharply defined linear forms, but in Italy it took ing in the 1920s on a slightly different look, thanks to the influence of the Gruppo Sette, and ’30s, mainly its main Italian promoters, and Benito Mussolini, Italy’s fascist dictator. on large-scale Basically, the Gruppo Sette acknowledged the debt Italian architecture housing projects. owed to its classical past and incorporated elements of that tradition into their modernistic designs. Aesthetically and politically, this tied in Their designs perfectly with Mussolini’s vision of fascism as the modern bearer of an- sought to ally cient Rome’s imperialist ambitions. modern func- tionalism with a Mussolini, a shrewd manipulator of imagery, embarked on a series of respect for tradi- grandiose building projects in the 1920s and ’30s, including the 1928−31 tion and a utopian Foro Italico sports centre, Via dei Foro Imperiali, and the residential vision of urban quarter of Garbatella. Now a colourful neighbourhood in southern development. Rome, Garbatella was originally planned as an English-style garden city to house city workers, but in the 1920s the project was hijacked by the fascist regime, which had its own designs. Central to these were inno- vative housing blocks, known as alberghi suburbani (suburban hotels), which were used to accommodate people displaced from the city centre. The most famous of these hotels, the Albergo Rosso, was designed by Innocenzo Sabbatini (1891−1983), the leading light of the Roman School of architecture. Esposizione Universale Roma Mussolini’s most famous architectural legacy is the EUR district (p196) in the extreme south of the city. Built for the Esposizione Universale di Roma in 1942, this Orwellian quarter of wide boulevards and huge lin- ear buildings owes its look to the vision of the razionalisti (rationalists). In practice, though, only one of their number, Adalberto Libera, actually worked on the project, as by this stage most of the Gruppo Sette had fallen out with the ruling Fascist junta. Libera’s Palazzo dei Congressi is a masterpiece of rationalist architecture, but EUR’s most iconic building is Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro (known as the Square Colosseum), designed by Giovanni Guerrini, Ernesto Bruno La Padula and Mario Romano. Postwar Developments For much of the postwar period, architects in Rome were limited to planning cheap housing for the city’s ever-growing population. Swathes

A rc h itec t u re P o s t- U n i f i c at i o n & t h e 2 0 t h C e n t u r y253 Top: Interior of BasilicaKAMIRA/SHUTTERSTOCK © di Santa Maria Maggiore (p139) Bottom: Visitors at the Colosseum (p52) KIEV.VICTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

254 of apartment blocks were built along the city’s main arteries, and grim suburbs sprang up on land claimed from local farmers. The 1960 Olympics heralded a spate of sporting construction, and both Stadio Flaminio and Stadio Olimpico date to this period. Pier Luigi Nervi, Italy’s master of concrete and a hugely influential innovator, add- ed his contribution in the form of the Palazzetto dello Sport. Architecture Modern Rome Designed by Modern Rome Paolo Portoghesi, Rome’s postmod- The 21st century has witnessed a flurry of architectural activity in ernist mosque is Rome. A clutch of ‘starchitects’ have worked on projects in the city, one of Europe’s including Renzo Piano, Italy’s foremost architect; renowned Ameri- largest. Its criti- can Richard Meier; Anglo-Iraqi Zaha Hadid; and Odile Decq, a major cally acclaimed French architect. design is centred Controversy & Acclaim on a beauti- ful, luminous The foundations of this building boom date to the early 1990s, when the interior capped then mayor Francesco Rutelli launched a major clean-up of the historic by a cupola and centre. As part of the process, he commissioned Richard Meier to build a 16 surrounding new pavilion for the 1st-century-AD Ara Pacis. Predictably, Meier’s glass- and-steel Museo dell’Ara Pacis (p101) caused controversy when it was domes. unveiled in 2006. Vittorio Sgarbi, an outspoken art critic and TV celeb- Rome’s Eataly rity, claimed that the American’s design was the first step to globalis- complex is a ing Rome’s unique classical heritage. The Roman public appreciated masterclass in the idea of modern architecture in the city centre, but few were entirely urban regenera- convinced by Meier’s design. tion, bringing life back to a derelict Meier won far more acclaim for a second project, his striking Chiesa train station. Dio Padre Misericordioso (www.diopadremisericordioso.it; Piazza Largo Until the complex Terzo Millennio 8; h7.30am-12.30pm & 4-7.30pm; gVia Francesco Tovaglieri) in opened in 2012, Tor Tre Teste, a dreary suburb east of the city centre. This was one of a the Air Terminal number of churches commissioned by the Vicariate of Rome for the 2000 Ostiense, which Jubilee. Another, the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Presentazione, designed had originally by the Rome-based Nemesi studio, sparked interest when it was inaugu- been designed rated in the outlying Quartaccio neighbourhood in 2002. to serve airport trains arriving for Other headline buildings from this period include Renzo Piano’s Audi- the 1990 football torium Parco della Musica (p181; 2002), Zaha Hadid’s MAXXI (p181; World Cup, had 2010) and Odile Decq’s 2010 MACRO (p182) building. been an aban- doned shell. Fuksas & Future Developments Born in Rome in 1944, Massimiliano Fuksas is known for his futuristic vision, and while he has no signature building as such, his 55,000-sq-m Nuovo Centro Congressi (p196), aka the Nuvola, comes as close as any to embodying his style. A rectangular 40m-high glass shell containing a steel-and-Teflon cloud supported by steel ribs and suspended over a vast conference hall, its look is fearlessly modern. Yet it’s not without its refer- ences to the past: in both scale and form it owes its inspiration to the 1930s rationalist architecture that surrounds it in EUR. Construction started on the €239 million Nuvola in 2007 and was finally completed in 2016. Elsewhere, work continues on a contemporary arts centre by award- winning French architect Jean Nouvel in the Forum Boarium area. In the city’s southern reaches, construction is set to start on a new 52,500-capacity stadium, the Stadio della Roma. The €400 million sta- dium will be the centrepiece of a vast development in the Tor di Valle neighbourhood, comprising a business park, training centre and public parkland.

255 Architecture Glossary apse a semicircular or polygonal recess with a domed roof over a A rc h itec t u re A r c h i t e c t u r e G l o s s ar y architrave church’s altar baldachino (baldachin) baroque a main beam set atop columns basilica a permanent canopy over an altar or tomb; often supported by cloister columns and freestanding colonnade cornice style of European art, architecture and music of the 17th and 18th crypt centuries cupola entablature an oblong hall with an apse at the end of the nave; used in ancient forum Rome for public assemblies and later adopted as a blueprint for frieze medieval churches futurism loggia enclosed court attached to a church or monastery; consists of a nave roofed ambulatory surrounding an open area neoclassicism portico a row of columns supporting a roof or other structure rationalism a horizontal projection that crowns a building or wall; the upper Renaissance part of an entablature rococo stucco an underground room beneath a church used for services and trompe l’oeil burials transept a rounded dome forming part of a ceiling or roof the part of a classical facade that sits on top of the columns; it consists of an architrave, frieze and cornice in ancient Rome, a public space used for judicial business and commerce a horizontal band, often with painted or sculptural decoration, that sits between the architrave and cornice Italian early-20th-century artistic movement that embraced mod- ern technology a gallery or room with one side open, often facing a garden the central aisle in a church, often separated from parallel aisles by pillars dominant style of art and architecture in the late 18th and early 19th centuries; a return to ancient Roman styles a porch with a roof supported by columns international architectural style of the 1920s; its Italian form, often associated with fascism, incorporates linear styles and classical references European revival of art and architecture based on classical prec- edents, between the 14th and 16th centuries ornate 18th-century style of architecture wall plaster used for decorative purposes a visual illusion tricking the viewer into seeing a painted object as a three-dimensional image in a cross-shaped church, the two parts that bisect the nave at right angles, forming the short arms of the cross

256 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd The Roman Way of Life As a visitor, it’s often difficult to see beyond Rome’s spectacular veneer to the large, modern city that lies beneath: a living, breathing capital that’s home to almost three million people. So how do the Romans live in their city? Where do they work? Who do they live with? How do they let their hair down? Rome is the most A Day in the Life congested city in Italy, according to Rome’s average office worker lives in a small, two-bedroom apartment research carried in the suburbs and works in a government ministry in the city centre. Their working day is typical of the many who crowd i mezzi (‘the out by traffic means’; public transport) in the morning rush hour. analysts Inrix. In 2016 the city’s The morning routine is the same as city dwellers the world over: a drivers spent an quick breakfast – usually nothing more than a sweet, black espresso – followed by a short bus ride to the nearest metro station. On the way average of 35 they stop at an edicola (kiosk) to pick up their local paper (Il Messaggero) hours stuck in and share a joke with the kiosk owner. A quick scan of the headlines traffic. Topping reveals few surprises – the usual political shenanigans in city hall; the Europe’s blacklist Pope’s latest utterances; Roma and Lazio match reports. were Moscow (91 hours) and Lon- Rome’s metro is not a particularly pleasant place to be in l’ora di pun- don (73 hours). ta (the rush hour), especially in summer when it gets unbearably hot, According to but the regulars are resigned to the discomfort and bear it cheerfully. figures released in late 2016, the Their work, like many in the swollen state bureaucracy, is not the average salary most interesting in the world, nor the best paid, but it’s secure, and with in Rome was a much sought-after contratto a tempo indeterminato (permanent con- €30,685. This tract) they don’t have to worry about losing it. In contrast, their younger compared to colleagues work in constant fear that their temporary contracts will not €34,414 in Milan be renewed when they expire. and €27,302 in Naples. Italy’s Lunch, which is typically taken around 1.30pm, is usually a snack or national average pizza al taglio (by the slice) from a nearby takeaway. Before heading was €29,176. back to the office for the afternoon session, there’s time for a quick cof- fee in the usual bar. Clocking off time in most ministries is typically from 5pm onwards and by about 7pm the evening rush hour is in full swing. Once home, there’s time to catch the 8pm TV news before sitting down to a pasta supper at about 8.30pm. Work Employment in the capital is largely based on Italy’s bloated state bu- reaucracy. Every morning armies of suited civil servants pour into town and disappear into vast ministerial buildings to keep the machinery of government ticking over. Other important employers include the tour- ist sector, finance, media and culture – Italy’s state broadcaster RAI is based in Rome, as is much of the country’s film industry, and there are hundreds of museums and galleries across town.

257 RELIGION IN ROMAN LIFE TH E RO M A N WAY O F LI FE H o me L i f e & the Family Rome is a city of churches. From the great headline basilicas in the historic centre to the hundreds of parish churches dotted around the suburbs, the city is packed with places to worship. And with the Vatican in the centre of town, the Church is a constant presence in Roman life. Yet the role of religion in modern Roman society is an ambiguous one. On the one hand, most people consider themselves Catholic, but on the other, church attendance is in freefall, particularly among the young, and atheism is growing. But while Romans don’t go to mass very often, the Church remains a point of reference for many people. The Vatican’s line on ethical and social issues might not always meet with widespread support, but it’s always given an airing in the largely sympathetic national press. Similarly, more than half of people who get married do so in church and first communions remain an important social occasion entailing gift- giving and lavish receptions. Catholicism’s hold on the Roman psyche is strong, but an increase in the city’s im- migrant population has led to a noticeable Muslim presence. This has largely been a pain-free process, but friction has flared on occasion and there were violent scenes in summer 2015 when far-right anti-immigration protestors clashed with police in the Casale San Nicola neighbourhood in north Rome. But as Italy’s economy continues to stagnate, it’s tough for young In 2017 the people to get a foot on the career ladder. To land it lucky, it helps to know average price for someone. Official figures are impossible to come by, but it’s a widely held a square metre of belief that personal or political connections are the best way of land- residential prop- ing a job. This system of raccomandazioni (recommendations) is wide- erty was around spread and, while being tacitly accepted, regularly gives rise to scandal. €3200, with rates In recent years controversies have centred on nepotistic appointments topping €8000 at Rome’s La Sapienza University, at the city’s public transport operator, and its waste disposal company. in the historic centre. In the Like everywhere in Italy, Rome’s workplace remains predominantly suburbs, the male. Female unemployment is an ongoing issue and Italian women going rate ranged continue to earn less than their male counterparts. That said, recent from about signs have been positive. Half of PM Matteo Renzi’s 2014 cabinet were €2500 to €4000 women and in June 2016, Rome elected its first ever female mayor. Vir- per square metre. ginia Raggi, a 37-year old lawyer and city councillor, swept to a landslide victory in the city’s 2016 municipal elections, thus becoming the first Roman able to call herself sindaca, as opposed to the more usual (and masculine) form, sindaco. Home Life & the Family Romans, like most Italians, live in apartments. These are often small – 75 to 100 sq m is typical – and expensive. House prices in Rome are among the highest in the country and many first-time buyers are forced to move out of town or to distant suburbs outside the GRA (the grande raccordo anulare), the busy ring road that marks the city’s outer limit. Almost all apartments are in self-managed condomini (blocks of in- dividually owned flats), a fact which gives rise to no end of neighbourly squabbling. Regular condominio meetings are often fiery affairs as neighbours argue over everything from communal repairs to noisy dogs and parking spaces. Rates of home ownership are relatively high in Rome and properties are commonly kept in the family, handed down from generation to gen- eration. People do rent, but the rental market is largely targeted at Rome’s huge student population.

258 TH E RO M A N WAY O F LI FE P lay FASHION & THE BELLA FIGURA Making a good impression (fare la bella figura) is extremely important to Romans. For a style-conscious student that might mean wearing the latest street brands and having the right smartphone. For a middle-aged professional it will involve being impeccably groomed and dressed appropriately for every occasion. This slavish adherence to fashion isn’t limited to clothes or accessories: it extends to all walks of life and trend- conscious Romans will frequent the same bars and restaurants, drink the same aperi- tivi and hang out on the same piazzas. English journal- Italy’s single most successful institution, and the only one in which the ist John Hooper Romans continue to trust, is the family. It’s still the rule rather the ex- ception for young Romans to stay at home until they marry, which they examines the typically do at around age 30. Figures report that virtually two thirds of contradictions Rome’s 18-to-34-year olds still live at home with at least one parent. To for- and insecurities eign observers this seems strange, but there are mitigating factors: up to that lie beneath half of these stay-at-homes are out of work and property and rental prices are high. There’s also the fact that young Romans are generally reluctant the smooth to downgrade and move to a cheaper neighbourhood. Seen from another veneer of Italian perspective, it could just mean that Roman families like living together. society in his But while faith in the family remains, the family is shrinking. Ital- entertaining 2015 ian women are giving birth later than ever and having fewer children book The Italians. – in 2016 the average number of children per woman was 1.34, a record low. Rome’s army of nonni (grandparents) berate their children for this, Like Luigi Bar- as does Pope Francis, who has criticised married couples for not having zini’s 1964 classic children, claiming it’s selfish. For their part, Italy’s politicians worry that such a perilously low birth rate threatens the future tax returns neces- of the same sary for funding the country’s already over-burdened pension system. name, it’s an entertaining and Play informative read full of obscure Despite perpetual economic and political crises, and all the trials and details and quirky tribulations of living in Rome – dodgy public transport, iffy services and sky-high prices – few Romans would swap their city for anywhere else. facts. They know theirs is one of the world’s most beautiful cities and they enjoy Rome’s finest it with gusto. You only have to look at the city’s pizzerias, trattorias and footballing hour restaurants to see that eating out is a much-loved local pastime. It’s a came in 2000 cliché of Roman life but food really is central to social pleasure. and 2001. In 2000, the city Drinking, in contrast, is not a traditional Roman activity. Recent times turned sky-blue have seen trends for craft beer and cocktails sweep the city but the drinks as Lazio fans are often little more than accessories to the main business of hanging out celebrated their and looking cool. Romans are well practiced at this – just look at all those team’s scudetto photos of dolce vita cafe society – and an evening out in Rome is as much (championship). about flirting and looking gorgeous as it is about consuming alcohol. A year later it was the turn of Clothes shopping is a popular Roman pastime, alongside cinema-going Rome’s red- and football. Interest in Rome’s two Serie A teams, Roma and Lazio, re- and-yellow fans mains high and a trip to the Stadio Olimpico to watch the Sunday game as their team is considered an afternoon well-spent. Depending on the result, of course. ran out Serie A champions. Plenty of people play football as well, although sport isn’t limited to calcio (soccer). The city’s gyms and indoor pools are a hive of activity, while joggers take to the parks and groups of impeccably clad cyclists hit the roads out of town. Romans are inveterate car-lovers and on hot summer weekends they will often drive out to the coast or surrounding countryside. Beach bums make for nearby Ostia or more upmarket Fregene, while those in search of a little greenery head to the Castelli Romani, a pocket of green hills just south of town famous for its Frascati wine and casual eateries.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 259 Survival Guide TRANSPORT������������ 260 Electricity �������������������������� 267 Emergency ������������������������ 267 ARRIVING Gay & Lesbian IN ROME���������������������������260 Travellers������������������������������ 267 Leonardo da Vinci Internet Access������������������ 268 Airport�������������������������������� 260 Legal Matters �������������������� 268 Ciampino Airport�������������� 261 Medical Services �������������� 269 Termini Money���������������������������������� 269 Train Station���������������������� 261 Opening Hours������������������ 269 Tiburtina Post�������������������������������������� 269 Bus Station������������������������ 262 Public Holidays������������������ 270 Civitavecchia Port ������������ 262 Safe Travel�������������������������� 270 Taxes & Refunds������������������271 GETTING AROUND Telephone ����������������������������271 ROME��������������������������������262 Time��������������������������������������271 Metro���������������������������������� 262 Toilets������������������������������������271 Bus & Tram������������������������ 262 Tourist ­Information������������271 Taxi�������������������������������������� 262 Travellers with Train������������������������������������ 263 Disabilities�������������������������� 272 Bicycle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Visas������������������������������������ 272 Car & Motorcyle. . . . . . . . . 264 Women Travellers�������������� 272 TOURS������������������������������265 LANGUAGE ��������������� 273 Guided Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Bus�������������������������������������� 266 Bike & Scooter������������������ 266 Boat ������������������������������������ 266 DIRECTORY A–Z������� 267 Customs ­Regulations ������ 267 Dangers & Annoyances. . . . . . . . . . . . . 267

260 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Transport ARRIVING IN 2 and 3 are for domestic and between 5am and 8.30pm. All ROME international flights; Terminal buses stop near the Vatican 5 is for American and Israeli (Via Crescenzio 2) en route. Most people arrive in Rome airlines flying to the US and Tickets are available on the by plane, landing at one of Israel. bus. Journey time is approxi- its two airports: Leonardo mately one hour. da Vinci, better known as Terminals 1, 2 and 3 are Cotral (%800 174471; www. Fiumicino; or Ciampino, hub within easy walking distance cotralspa.it; one-way €5, for European low-cost carrier of each other in the main purchased on the bus €7) Runs Ryanair. Flights from New airport building; Terminal 5 between Fiumicino and Stazi- York take around nine hours, is accessible by shuttle bus one Tiburtina via Termini. Three from London 2¾ hours, from from Terminal 3. to six daily departures including Sydney at least 22 hours. night services from the airport The easiest way to get into at 1.15am, 2.15am, 3.30am Domestic flights connect town is by train, but there are and 5am, and from Tiburtina Rome with airports across also buses and private shut- at 12.30am, 1.15am, 2.30am Italy. tle services. and 3.45am. Journey time is one hour. As an alternative to Train Schiaffini Rome Airport Bus short-haul flights, trains (%06 713 05 31; www.rome serve Rome’s main station, Leonardo Express (one-way airportbus.com; one-way/ Stazione Termini, from a €14) Runs to/from Stazione return €5.90/7.90) Regular number of European destina- Termini. Departures from services run from the airport tions, including Paris (about the airport every 30 minutes to Stazione Termini (Via 15 hours), as well as cities between 6.23am and 11.23pm, Giolitti; Map p312) between across Italy. and from Termini between 6.05am and 8.25pm, and from 5.35am and 10.35pm. Journey Termini between 5.10am and Long-distance domestic time is 30 minutes. 9.30pm. Allow about an hour and international buses FL1 (one-way €8) Connects to for the journey. arrive at the Autostazione Trastevere, Ostiense and Tibur- Tiburtina. tina stations, but not Termini. Private Shuttle Departures from the airport You can also get to Rome every 15 minutes (half-hourly on Airport Connection Services by boat. Ferries serve Civi- Sundays and public holidays) (%06 2111 6248; www.airport tavecchia, some 80km north between 5.57am and 10.42pm, connection.it) Transfers to/ of the city, from a number of from Tiburtina every 15 minutes from the city centre start at Mediterranean ports. between 5.01am and 7.31pm, €22 per person. then half-hourly to 10.01pm. Airport Shuttle (%06 420 Flights, cars and tours can 13 469; www.airportshuttle.it) be booked online at lonely Bus Transfers to/from your hotel planet.com/bookings. for €25 for one person, then €6 SIT Bus (%06 591 68 26; for each additional passenger Leonardo da Vinci www.sitbusshuttle.com; one- up to a maximum of eight. Airport way/return €6/11) Regular departures to Stazione Termini Rome’s main international (Via Marsala) from 8.30am to airport, Leonardo da Vinci 12.30am, and from Termini (Fiumicino; %06 6 59 51; www. adr.it/fiumicino), is 30km west of the city. It’s divided into four terminals: Terminals 1,

261 Taxi Bus Taxi Tr a nsp o rt A rrivi n g i n R ome The set fare to/from the city Schiaffini Rome Airport Bus The set rate to/from the centre is €48, which is valid (%06 713 05 31; www.rome airport is €30. Journey time for up to four passengers airportbus.com; Via Giolitti; is approximately 30 minutes including luggage. Note that one-way/return €4.90/7.90) depending on traffic. taxis registered in Fiumicino Regular departures to/from Via charge more, so make sure Giolitti outside Stazione Ter- Car you catch a Comune di Roma mini. From the airport, services taxi – these are white with are between 4am and 10.50pm; Exit the station and follow a taxi sign on the roof and from Via Giolitti, buses run Via Appia Nuova into the Roma Capitale written on from 4.50am to midnight. Buy centre. the door along with the taxi’s tickets on board, online, at licence number. Journey the airport, or at the bus stop. Termini Train time is approximately 45 to Journey time is approximately Station 60 minutes depending on 40 minutes. traffic. SIT Bus (%06 591 68 26; Rome’s main station and www.sitbusshuttle.com; to/ principal transport hub is Car from airport €6/5, return €9) Stazione Termini (www. Regular departures from the romatermini.com; Piazza dei Follow signs for Roma out airport to Via Marsala (Map Cinquecento; mTermini). It of the airport and onto the p312; Via Marsala 5) outside has regular connections to autostrada. Exit at EUR, fol- Stazione Termini between other European countries, all lowing signs for the centro, 7.45am and 11.15pm, and from major Italian cities and many to link up with Via Cristoforo Termini between 4.30am and smaller towns. Colombo, which will take you 9.30pm. Get tickets on the bus. directly into the centre. Journey time is 45 minutes. Train information is avail- Atral (www.atral-lazio.com) able from the Customer Ciampino Airport Runs buses between Ciampino Service area on the main Airport and Anagnina metro concourse to the left of the Ciampino (%06 6 59 51; www. station (€1.20) and Ciampino ticket desks. Alternatively, adr.it/ciampino), 15km south- train station (€1.20), where check www.trenitalia.com or east of the city centre, is used you can get a train to Termini phone %89 20 21. by Ryanair (%895 5895509; (€1.50). www.ryanair.com) for European From Termini, you can and Italian destinations. It’s Private Shuttle connect with the metro or not a big airport but there’s take a bus from Piazza dei a steady flow of traffic and at Airport Shuttle (%06 420 Cinquecento out front. peak times it can get extremely 13 469; www.airportshuttle.it) Taxis are outside the main busy. Transfers to/from your hotel entrance/exit. for €25 for one person, then €6 Left Luggage (Stazione To get into town, the best for each additional passenger Termini; 1st 5hr €6, 6-12hr option is to take one of the up to a maximum of eight. per hour €0.90, 13hr & over dedicated bus services. You per hour €0.40; h6am-11pm; can also take a bus to Ciam- mTermini) is available by pino station and then pick up platform 24 on the Via Giolitti a train to Termini. side of the station. CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and par- ticles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

262 Tr a nsp o rt G etti n g A ro u n d R ome which cross at Termini. A ¨¨Buses generally run from branch line, ‘B1’, serves the about 5.30am until midnight, Tiburtina Bus northern suburbs, and line C with limited services throughout Station runs through the southeastern the night. outskirts, but you’re unlikely to ¨¨Rome’s night bus service Long-distance national and need those. comprises more than 25 lines, international buses use ¨¨Trains run between 5.30am many of which pass Termini Autostazione Tiburtina and 11.30pm (to 1.30am on and/or Piazza Venezia. Buses (Tibus; Largo Guido Mazzoni; Fridays and Saturdays). are marked with an ‘n’ before mTiburtina). Get tickets at ¨¨All stations on line B have the number and bus stops have the bus station or at travel wheelchair access and lifts a blue owl symbol. Departures agencies. except Circo Massimo, Colosseo are usually every 15 to 30 min- and Cavour. On line A, Cipro and utes, but can be much slower. From the bus station, Termini are equipped with lifts. The most useful routes: cross under the overpass for ¨¨Take line A for the Trevi ¨¨n1 Follows the route of metro the Tiburtina train station, Fountain (Barberini), Spanish line A. where you can pick up metro Steps (Spagna) and St Peter’s ¨¨n2 Follows the route of metro line B and connect with Ter- (Ottaviano–San Pietro). line B. mini for onward buses, trains ¨¨Take line B for the Colosseum ¨¨n7 Piazzale Clodio, Piazza and metro line A. (Colosseo). Cavour, Via Zanardelli, Corso del Rinascimento, Corso Vit- Civitavecchia Port Bus & Tram torio Emanuele II, Largo di Torre Argentina, Piazza Venezia, Via The nearest port to Rome ¨¨Rome’s bus and tram ser- Nazionale and Stazione Termini. is at Civitavecchia, about vices are run by ATAC (%06 5 80km north of town. Ferries 70 03; www.atac.roma.it). Taxi sail here from Barcelona ¨¨The main bus station and Tunis, as well as Sicily (Map p312; Piazza dei ¨¨Official licensed taxis are and Sardinia. Check www. Cinquecento) is in front of white with an ID number and traghettiweb.it for route Stazione Termini on Piazza dei Roma Capitale on the sides. details, prices, and to book. Cinquecento, where there’s an ¨¨Always go with the metered information booth (Map fare, never an arranged price Bookings can also be p312; Piazza dei Cinquecento; (the set fares to and from the made at the Termini-based h8am-8pm; mTermini). airports are exceptions). Agenzie 365 (%06 4782 ¨¨Other important hubs are at ¨¨In town (within the ring road) 5179; www.agenzie365.it; Largo di Torre Argentina and flag fall is €3 between 6am Stazione Termini, Via Giolitti Piazza Venezia. and 10pm on weekdays, €4.50 34; h8am-9pm; mTermini), at travel agents or directly at the port. From Civitavecchia there are half-hourly trains to Stazione Termini (€5 to €16, 45 minutes to 1½ hours). Civitavecchia’s station is about 700m from the en- trance to the port. GETTING BUSES FROM TERMINI AROUND ROME From Piazza dei Cinquecento outside Stazione Termini Rome is a sprawling city, buses run to all corners of the city. but the historic centre is relatively compact. Distanc- DESTINATION BUS NO es are not great and walking St Peter’s Square 40/64 is often the best way of get- Piazza Venezia 40/64 ting around. Public trans- Piazza Navona 40/64 port includes buses, trams, Campo de’ Fiori 40/64 metro and a suburban train Pantheon 40/64 network. The main hub is Colosseum 75 Stazione Termini. Terme di Caracalla 714 Villa Borghese 910 Metro Trastevere H ¨¨Rome has two main metro lines, A (orange) and B (blue),

263 on Sundays and holidays, and ¨¨To book, call the automated Pronto Taxi (%06 66 45; Tr a nsp o rt G etti n g A ro u n d R ome €6.50 between 10pm and 6am. taxi line (%in Italian 06 06 www.6645.it) Then it’s €1.10 per km. Official 09), which sends the nearest car Radiotaxi 3570 (%06 35 70; rates are posted in taxis and available; a taxi company direct; www.3570.it) at https://romamobilita.it/it/ or use the Chiama Taxi app. Samarcanda (%06 55 51; servizi/taxi/tariffe. ¨¨The website www.060608. www.samarcanda.it) ¨¨You can hail a taxi, but it’s it has a list of taxi companies – Taxi Tevere (%06 41 57; www. often easier to wait at a rank or click on the transport tab, then taxitevere.it) phone for one. There are taxi ‘getting around’ and ‘by taxi’. ranks at the airports, Stazione ¨¨Note that when you call for Train Termini, Piazza della Repub- a cab, the meter is switched on blica, Piazza Barberini, Piazza straight away and you pay for Apart from connections di Spagna, Piazza Venezia, the cost of the journey from to Fiumicino airport, you’ll the Pantheon, the Colosseum, wherever the driver receives probably only need the over- Largo di Torre Argentina, Piazza the call. ground rail network if you Belli, Piazza Pio XII, Piazza del head out of town. Risorgimento. USEFUL BUS & TRAM ROUTES BUS NO ROUTE OPERATING HOURS FREQUENCY H (HOURLY) 3 (tram) Termini, Via Nazionale, Piazza Vene- 5.30am-midnight up to 5 zia, Viale Trastevere up to 7 8 (tram) 23 Trastevere, Testaccio, Viale Aventino, 5.30am-10pm up to 14 40 Circo Massimo, Colosseo, San up to 6 64 Giovanni, Porta Maggiore, San 170 Lorenzo, Villa Borghese up to 12 492 Piazza Venezia, Via Arenula, 5.35am-12.30am up to 12 660 Trastevere up to 7 714 910 Piazzale Clodio, Piazza del Risor- 5.15am-midnight up to 6 gimento, Lungotevere, Testaccio, Ostiense, Basilica di San Paolo 2 up to 7 Termini, Via Nazionale, Piazza Vene- 6am-midnight zia, Largo di Torre Argentina, Borgo up to 6 Sant’Angelo Similar route to 40 but slower and 5.30am-12.30am with more stops Termini, Via Nazionale, Piazza Vene- 5.30am-midnight zia, Via del Teatro Marcello, Piazza Bocca della Verità, Testaccio, EUR Stazione Tiburtina, San Lorenzo, 5.30am-midnight Piazza Barberini, Largo di Torre Argentina, Corso del Rinascimento, Piazza del Risorgimento, Cipro– Vatican Museums Largo Colli Albani to Via Appia Antica 7.25am-9pm Termini, Piazza Santa Maria Maggio- 5.30am-midnight re, Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, EUR Termini, Piazza della Repubblica, 5.30am-midnight Villa Borghese, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Piazza Mancini

264 Tr a nsp o rt G etti n g A ro u n d R ome TICKETS & PASSES Public-transport tickets are valid on all of Rome’s bus, tram and metro lines, except for routes to Fiumicino airport. They come in various forms: ¨¨BIT (biglietto integrato a tempo, a single ticket valid for 100 minutes; in that time it can be used on all forms of transport but only once on the metro) €1.50 ¨¨Roma 24h (valid for 24 hours) €7 ¨¨Roma 48h (valid for 48 hours) €12.50 ¨¨Roma 72h (valid for 72 hours) €18 ¨¨CIS (carta integrata settimanale, a weekly ticket) €24 ¨¨Abbonamento mensile (a monthly pass) a pass restricted to a single user €35; a pass that can be used by anyone €53 ¨¨Children under 10 travel free. Buy tickets at tabacchi (tobacconist’s shops), newsstands and from vending machines at main bus stops and metro stations. They must be purchased before you start your journey and validated in the machines on buses, at the entrance gates to the metro, or at train stations. Ticketless riders risk a fine of at least €50. The Roma Pass (p17) (two/three days €28/38.50) comes with a two/three-day travel pass valid within the city boundaries. Travelling Out of Town For destinations in the surrounding Lazio region, Cotral (%800 174471, from a mobile 06 7205 7205; www.cotralspa.it) buses depart from numerous points throughout the city. The company is linked with Rome’s public transport system, which means that you can buy tickets that cover city buses, trams, metro, and train lines, as well as regional buses and trains. There are a range of tickets but your best bet is a daily BIRG (biglietto integrato regionale giornaliero) ticket, which allows unlimited travel on all city and regional transport. It’s priced according to zones; tickets range from €3.30 to €14. Get tickets from tabacchi and authorised ATAC sellers. ¨¨Train information is available Bicycle table, you can carry a bike if you from the Customer Service pay a €3.50 supplement. area on the main concourse in ¨¨The centre of Rome doesn’t Stazione Termini (www. lend itself to cycling: there are Car & Motorcycle romatermini.com; Piazza dei steep hills, treacherous cobbled Cinquecento; mTermini). Alter- roads and the traffic is terrible. ¨¨Driving around Rome is not natively, check www.trenitalia. ¨¨Bikes can be transported recommended. Riding a scooter com or phone %89 20 21. on certain specified bus and or motorbike is faster and ¨¨Buy tickets on the main sta- tram routes, and on the metro makes parking easier, but Rome tion concourse, from automated at weekends and on weekdays is no place for learners, so if ticket machines, or from an from 5.30am to 7am, from you’re not an experienced rider, authorised travel agency – look 10am to noon, and from 8pm give it a miss. Hiring a car for for an FS or biglietti treni sign in until the end of service. a day trip out of town is worth the window. ¨¨Bikes can be carried on the considering. ¨¨Rome’s second train sta- Lido di Ostia train on Saturday ¨¨Most of Rome’s historic tion is Stazione Tiburtina, and Sunday and on weekdays centre is closed to unauthor- four stops from Termini on from the beginning of service to ised traffic from 6.30am to metro line B. Of the capital’s 12.30pm and from 8pm until the 6pm Monday to Friday, from eight other train stations, the end of service. You have to buy 2pm to 6pm (10am to 7pm in most important are Stazione a separate ticket for the bike. some places) Saturday, and Roma-Ostiense and Stazione ¨¨On regional trains marked from 11pm to 3am Friday and Trastevere. with a bike icon on the time- Saturday. Evening restrictions also apply in Trastevere, San

265 Lorenzo, Monti and Testaccio, 116, roadside assistance from ¨¨Expect to pay up to €1.20 per Tr a nsp o rt T o u rs typically from 9.30pm or 11pm foreign mobile 800 116.800; hour between 8am and 8pm to 3am on Fridays and Satur- www.aci.it), Italy’s national (11pm in some places). After days (also Wednesdays and motoring organisation. 8pm (or 11pm) parking is free Thursdays in summer). until 8am the next morning. ¨¨All streets accessing the Hire ¨¨Traffic wardens are vigilant Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL) are and fines are not uncommon. monitored by electronic-access To hire a car you’ll require If your car gets towed away, detection devices. If you’re a driving licence (plus IDP if call the traffic police (%06 staying in this zone, contact necessary) and credit card. 67691). your hotel. For further informa- Age restrictions vary but ¨¨There’s a comprehensive list tion, check www.agenzia generally you’ll need to be 21 of car parks on www.060608. mobilita.roma.it. or over. it – click on the ‘transport’ tab and then ‘car parks’. Driving Licence & Car hire is available at Road Rules both Rome’s airports and TOURS Stazione Termini. Reckon All EU driving licences are on at least €40 per day for Guided Tours recognised in Italy. Holders a small car. Note also that of non-EU licences should most Italian hire cars have A Friend in Rome (%340 get an International Driving manual gear transmission. 501 92 01; www.afriendinrome. Permit (IDP) to accompany Avis (%06 45210 8391; www. it) Silvia Prosperi and her their national licence. Apply avisautonoleggio.it) team offer a range of private to your national motoring Europcar (%199 307030; tours covering the Vatican and association. www.europcar.it) main historic centre as well as Hertz (%Stazione Termini areas outside the capital. They A licence is required to office 06 488 39 67; www. can also organise kid-friendly ride a scooter – a car licence hertz.it) tours, food and wine itineraries, will do for bikes up to 125cc; Maggiore National (%Termini vintage car drives and horse for anything over 125cc you’ll office 06 488 00 49, central rides along Via Appia Antica. need a motorcycle licence. reservations 199 151120; www. Rates start at €165 for a basic maggiore.it; Via Giolitti 34, three-hour tour for up to eight Other rules: Stazione Termini; mTermini) people; add €55 for every ad- ¨¨Drive on the right, overtake ditional hour. on the left. To hire a scooter, prices Roman Guy (https://the ¨¨It’s obligatory to wear seat range from about €30 to romanguy.com) A professional belts, to drive with your head- €120 depending on the size setup that organises a wide lights on outside built-up areas, of the vehicle. Reliable range of group and private and to carry a warning triangle operators: tours. Packages, led by English- and fluorescent waistcoat in Eco Move Rent (%06 4470 speaking experts, include skip- case of breakdown. 4518; www.ecomoverent. the-line visits to the Vatican ¨¨Wearing a helmet is com- com; Via Varese 48-50; bike/ Museums (US$89), foodie pulsory on all two-wheeled scooter/Vespa hire per day tours of Trastevere and the vehicles. from €8/40/110; h8.30am- Jewish Ghetto (US$84), and an ¨¨The blood alcohol limit is 7.30pm; mTermini) evening bar hop through the 0.05%; for drivers under 21 Treno e Scooter (%06 4890 historic centre’s cocktail bars years and those who have had 5823; www.trenoescooter.com; (US$225). their licence for less than three Piazza dei Cinquecento; per years it’s zero. day €28; h9am-2pm & 4-7pm) Through Eternity Cul- Unless otherwise indicated, On Road (%06 481 56 69; tural Association (%06 speed limits are as follows: www.scooterhire.it; Via Ca- 700 93 36; www.through ¨¨130km/h on autostradas vour 80a; bicycle & scooter eternity.com) A reliable ¨¨110km/h on all main, non- rental per day from €12/45; operator offering private and urban roads h10am-2pm & 2.30-6.30pm; group tours led by English- ¨¨90km/h on secondary, non- mTermini) speaking experts. Popular pack- urban roads ages include a twilight tour of ¨¨50km/h in built-up areas Parking Rome’s piazzas and fountains A good source of information is the Automobile Club ¨¨Blue lines denote pay-and- d’Italia (ACI; %roadside as- display parking – get tickets sistance from Italian mobile 803 from meters (coins only) and tabacchi (tobacconists).

Tr a nsp o rt T o u rs266 sights including St Peter’s Ba- Termini. It also rents e-bikes (€39, 2½ hours), a night visit silica, Piazza Navona, the Trevi and organises guided Vespa/ to the Vatican Museums (€69, Fountain and the Colosseum. e-bike tours (from €70/40). 3½ hours), and a foodie tour of Tickets are available on board, TopBike Rental & Tours Testaccio (€79, four hours). online, or at the info point just (Map p306; %06 488 28 93; Arcult (%339 650 31 72; off St Peter’s Square. www.topbikerental.com; Via www.arcult.it) Run by archi- Labicana 49; h10am-7pm; tects, Arcult offers excellent Bike & Scooter gVia Labicana) Offers a series customisable group tours of bike tours throughout the focusing on Rome’s contem- Bici & Baci (Map p312; city, including a four-hour 16km porary architecture. Prices %06 482 84 43; www.bicibaci. exploration of the city centre depend on the itinerary but com; Via del Viminale 5; bike (€45) and an all-day 30km ride range from €250 to €370 for tours from €30, Vespa tours through Via Appia Antica and two to 10 people. from €145; h8am-7pm; environs (€79). Out-of-town Dark Rome (City Wonders; mRepubblica) Bici & Baci runs tours take in Castel Gandolfo, %06 8336 0561; www. a range of daily bike tours, tak- Civita di Bagnoregio and Orvi- darkrome.com) Runs a range ing in the main historical sites eto. Also offers bike hire from of themed tours, costing from and Via Appia Antica, as well €15 per day. €25 to €599, including skip- as tours on vintage Vespas, in the-line visits to the Colos- classic Fiat 500 cars or funky Boat seum and Vatican Museums, three-wheeled Ape Calessino. and semiprivate visits to the Its sparkling new flagship Rome Boat Experience Sistine Chapel. Other popular branch is near Stazione Termini (Map p296;%06 8956 7745; choices include a ‘crypts and (Map p312;%06 481 40 64; www.romeboatexperience.com; catacombs’ tour, which takes in www.bicibaci.com; Via Rosmini adult/reduced €18/12) From Rome’s buried treasures, and a 26; bike tours from €30, Vespa April to October, this outfit day trip to Pompeii. tours from €145; h8am-7pm runs hop-on, hop-off cruises Mon-Sat; mTermini). along the Tiber. From May to Bus Vespa Style Roma (Map October there are also dinner p312;%06 446 62 68; www. cruises (€65, two hours) every Open Bus Cristiana (%06 vespastyleroma.it; Via Milazzo Friday and Saturday, and a 69 89 61; www.operaromana 3a; Vespa rental per hour/ daily wine bar cruise (€30, pellegrinaggi.org; single tour day €15/69, e-bikes per day 1½ hours) from Monday to €12, 24/48hr ticket €25/28) €25; h9am-7pm; mTermini) Thursday. The main embarka- The Vatican-sponsored Opera Wannabe Audrey Hepburns can tion point is Molo Sant’Angelo, Romana Pellegrinaggi runs a rent a Vespa to scoot around over the river from Castel hop-on, hop-off bus departing town from Vespa Style Roma, Sant’Angelo. from Piazza Pia and Termini. across the road from Stazione Stops are situated near to main

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 267 Directory A–Z Customs ¨¨Always check your change Regulations to see you haven’t been shortchanged. Entering Italy from another ¨¨In case of theft or loss, always EU country you can bring, report the incident to the police duty-free: 10L spirits, 90L within 24 hours and ask for a wine and 800 cigarettes. statement. If arriving from a non-EU Electricity country, the limits are 1L spirits (or 2L fortified wine), Type L 4L still wine, 60ml perfume, 16L beer, 200 cigarettes and 220V/50Hz other goods up to a value of €300/430 (travelling by land/sea); anything over this must be declared on arrival and the duty paid. On leaving the EU, non-EU residents can reclaim value- added tax (VAT) on expen- sive purchases. Dangers & Type F Gay & Lesbian Annoyances Travellers 230V/50Hz Rome is a safe city but petty Homosexuality is legal (over theft can be a problem. Emergency the age of 16) and even ¨¨Pickpockets are active in widely accepted, but Rome touristy areas such as the Col- Ambulance %118 is fairly conservative in its osseum, Piazza di Spagna and Fire %115 attitudes and discretion is St Peter’s Square. Police %112, %113 still wise. ¨¨Be alert around Stazione The city has a thriving, if Termini and on crowded public low-key, gay scene. There transport – the 64 Vatican bus are relatively few queer-only is notorious. venues but the Colosseum end of Via di San Giovanni ¨¨Never drape your bag over an in Laterano is a favourite empty chair at a streetside cafe hang out and many clubs or put it where you can’t see it. host regular gay and lesbian nights. There is also a popu- ¨¨Beware of gangs of kids de- lar gay beach, Settimo Cielo, manding attention. If you notice outside Rome at Capocotta, that you’ve been targeted, accessible via bus 61 from either take evasive action or Ostia Lido. shout ‘Va via!’ (‘Go away!’).

268 D i rec to ry A–Z I N T E R N E T A C C E S S gLungotevere della Farnesina) you’ll need to register online The big annual event is The national organisation for using a credit card or an Italian lesbians holds regular confer- mobile phone. Gay Village (www.gayvillage. ences and literary evenings at it; Parco del Ninfeo; mEUR the Casa Internazionale delle Legal Matters Magliana), held between June Donne in Trastevere. and September in EUR. The most likely reason for Internet Access a brush with the law is to Resources include the report a theft. If you have following: ¨¨Free wi-fi is widely available something stolen and you Arcigay (%06 6450 1102; in hostels, B&Bs and hotels, want to claim it on insurance, www.arcigayroma.it; Via Nicola though with signals of varying you must make a statement Zabaglia 14) The Roman branch quality. Some also provide to the police. Insurance com- of Arcigay, Italy’s national laptops/computers. panies won’t pay up without organisation for the LGBT ¨¨Many bars and cafes offer official proof of a crime. community. wi-fi. ¨¨There are many public wi-fi The Italian police is di- Circolo Mario Mieli di hotspots across town run by vided into three main bodies: Cultura Omosessuale (Map Roma Wireless (https:// the polizia, who wear navy- p318;%06 541 39 85; www. captivik.uni.it/romawireless) blue jackets; the carabinieri, mariomieli.org; Via Efeso 2a; and WiFimetropolitano (www. in a black uniform with a red h9am-6pm Mon-Fri; mBa- cittametropolitanaroma.gov.it/ stripe; and the grey-clad silica San Paolo) Organises wifimetropolitano). To use these guardia di finanza (fiscal po- debates, cultural events and lice), responsible for fighting social functions. tax evasion and drug smug- gling. If you run into trouble, Coordinamento Lesbiche you’re most likely to end up Italiano (www.clrbp.it; Via San Francesco di Sales 1b; DISCOUNT CARDS DISCOUNT CARD PRICE ADULT/ VALIDITY FEATURES Archaeologia Card REDUCED (€) 7 days 25/15 Entrance to the Colosseum, Palatino, Roman Omnia Card 72 hours Forum, Museo Nazionale Romano (Palazzo 115 Altemps, Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, Terme Roma Pass 72 hours di Diocleziano, Crypta Balbi), Terme di Cara- 38.50 calla, Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella and Villa dei Quintili. Available at participating sites or by calling %06 3996 7700. Fast-track entry to the Vatican Museums and other major sites; audio guides for St. Peter’s Basilica and Basilica di San Giovanni. Free travel on the Roma Cristiana Open Bus and unlimited public transport within Rome. Free entry to two sites, then 50% discount to extra sites. A 24-hour version is also available (€55). Details at www.omniakit.org. Includes free admission to two museums or sites, as well as reduced entry to extra sites, unlimited city transport, and discounted entry to other exhibitions and events. The 48-hour Roma Pass (€28) is a more limited version. Further information at www.roma pass.it. EU citizens aged between 18 and 25 qualify for discounts at state-run museums; under 18s get in free. City-run museums are free for children under six years and discounted for six to 25-year-olds. In all cases you’ll need proof of age, ideally a passport or ID card.

269 dealing with the polizia or than the brand name. Regu- cards, as do most restaurants D i rec to ry A–Z M E D I C A L S E R V I C E S carabinieri. lar medications available and large shops. Some cheaper over the counter – such as pensioni (pensions), trattorias If you’re caught with what antihistamines or paraceta- and pizzerias only accept cash. the police deem to be a mol – tend to be expensive Don’t rely on credit cards at dealable quantity of hard or in Italy. museums or galleries. soft drugs, you risk prison ¨¨Major cards such as Visa, sentences of between two Money MasterCard, Eurocard, Cirrus and 20 years. Possession for and Eurocheques are widely personal use is punishable Italy’s currency is the euro. accepted. Amex is also recog- by administrative sanctions, The seven euro notes come nised, although it’s less com- although first-time offend- in denominations of €500, mon than Visa or MasterCard. ers might get away with a €200, €100, €50, €20, €10 ¨¨Note that using your credit warning. and €5. The eight euro coins card in ATMs can be costly. On are in denominations of €2 every transaction there’s a fee, Medical Services and €1, and 50, 20, 10, five, which can reach US$10 with two and one cents. some credit-card issuers, as Italy has a public health well as interest per withdrawal. system that is legally bound ATMs Check with your issuer before to provide emergency care leaving home. to everyone. EU nationals ¨¨ATMs (known in Italy as ¨¨If your card is lost, stolen or are entitled to reduced-cost, bancomat) are widely available swallowed by an ATM, telephone sometimes free, medical in Rome and most will accept to have an immediate stop put care with a European Health cards tied into the Visa, Mas- on its use. Insurance Card (EHIC), avail- terCard, Cirrus and Maestro able from your home health systems. Opening Hours authority; non-EU citizens ¨¨The daily limit for cash with- should take out medical drawal is €250. Banks 8.30am–1.30pm and insurance. ¨¨Always let your bank know 2.45–4.30pm Monday to Friday when you are going abroad, in For emergency treatment, case they block your card when Bars & cafes 7.30am–8pm, you can go to the pronto payments from unusual loca- sometimes until 1am or 2am soccorso (casualty) section tions appear. of an ospedale (public hospi- ¨¨Beware of transaction fees. Shops 9am–7.30pm or 10am– tal). For less serious ailments Every time you withdraw cash, 8pm Monday to Saturday, call the Guardia Medica you’ll be hit by charges – typi- some 11am–7pm Sunday; Turistica (%06 7730 6650; cally your home bank will charge smaller shops 9am–1pm and Via Emilio Morosini 30; h8am- a foreign exchange fee (usually 3.30–7.30pm (or 4pm to 8pm) 8pm Mon-Fri; gViale di Traste- around 1%) as well as a transac- Monday to Saturday; some vere, jViale di Trastevere). tion fee of around 1% to 3%. shops are closed Monday Check details with your bank. morning To arrange a (paid) home ¨¨If an ATM rejects your card, visit by a private doctor call try another one before assum- Clubs 10pm–4am or 5am the International Medical ing the problem is with your Restaurants noon–3pm and Centre (%06 488 23 71; www. card. 7.30–11pm (later in summer) imc84.com/roma; Via Firenze 47; GP call-out & treatment fee €140, 8pm-9am & weekends €200; h24hr; mRepubblica). If you need an ambulance, call %118. Pharmacies Changing Money Post Marked by a green cross, ¨¨You can change your money Italy’s postal system, Poste farmacie (pharmacies) open in banks, at post offices or at a Italiane (%803 160; www. from 8.30am to 1pm and cambio (exchange office). There poste.it), is reasonably reli- 4pm to 7.30pm Monday are exchange booths at Stazi- able, though parcels do to Friday and on Saturday one Termini and at Fiumicino occasionally go missing. mornings. Outside these and Ciampino airports. hours they open on a rota- ¨¨Take your passport or photo Stamps (francobolli) are tional basis, and all are le- ID when exchanging money. available at post offices and gally required to post a list of authorised tobacconists places open in the vicinity. Credit Cards (look for the official tabacchi sign: a big ‘T’, usually white If you think you’ll need a ¨¨Virtually all midrange and on black). prescription while in Rome, top-end hotels accept credit make sure you know the Opening hours vary but drug’s generic name rather are typically 8.30am to

270 D i rec to ry A–Z P U B L I C H O L I D AY S PRACTICALITIES 6pm Monday to Friday and 8.30am to 1pm on Saturday. ¨¨Newspapers Key national dailies include centre-left All post offices close two la Repubblica (www.repubblica.it) and its right-wing hours earlier than normal rival Corriere della Sera (www.corriere.it). For the on the last business day of Vatican’s take on affairs, L’OsservatoreRomano (www. each month. osservatoreromano.va) is the Holy See’s official paper. Main Post Office (Map p300;%06 6973 7205; ¨¨Radio As well as the principal Rai channels (Radi- Piazza di San Silvestro 19; ouno, Radiodue, Radiotre), there are hundreds of com- h8.20am-7pm Mon-Fri, mercial radio stations operating across the country. to 12.35pm Sat; gVia del Popular Rome-based stations include Radio Capital Tritone) (www.capital.it) and Radio Città Futura (www.radio Vatican Post Office (Map cittafutura.it). Vatican Radio (www.radiovaticana.va) p304;%06 6989 0400; St broadcasts in Italian, English and other languages. Peter’s Square; h8.30am- 6.45pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1.45pm ¨¨Television The main terrestrial channels are RAI Sat Sep-Jun, 8am-1.45pm Jul 1, 2 and 3 run by Rai (www.rai.it), Italy’s state-owned & Aug) Letters can be posted national broadcaster, and Canale 5, Italia 1 and Rete in yellow Vatican post boxes 4 run by Mediaset (www.mediaset.it), the commercial only if they carry Vatican TV company founded and still partly owned by Silvio stamps. Berlusconi. Postal Rates ¨¨Smoking Smoking is banned in enclosed public spaces, which includes restaurants, bars, shops and Letters up to 20g cost public transport. It’s also banned in Villa Borghese €0.95 to destinations in and other public parks over the summer, from June to Italy, €1 to Zone 1 (Europe September. and the Mediterranean ba- sin), €2.20 to Zone 2 (other ¨¨Weights & Measures Italy uses the metric system. countries in Africa, Asia and the Americas) and €2.90 to Festa della Repubblica Pickpockets go where the Zone 3 (Australia and New (Republic Day) 2 June tourists go, so watch out Zealand). For more impor- Festa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo around the most touristed tant items, use registered (Feast of Sts Peter & Paul) and crowded areas, such as mail (raccomandata), which 29 June the Colosseum, Piazza di costs €5 to Italian addreses, Ferragosto (Feast of the Spagna, St Peter’s Square €6.60 to Zone 1, €7.80 to Assumption) 15 August and Stazione Termini. Note Zone 2 and €8.40 to Zone 3. Festa di Ognisanti (All Saints’ that thieves prey on disori- Day) 1 November ented travellers at the bus Public Holidays Festa dell’Immacolata stops around Termini, fresh Concezione (Feast of the in from airports. Crowded Most Romans take their an- Immaculate Conception) 8 public transport is another nual holiday in August. This December hot spot. If travelling on the means that many businesses Natale (Christmas Day) 25 metro, try to use the end and shops close for at least December carriages, which are usually part of the month, particu- Festa di Santo Stefano less busy. larly around Ferragosto (Boxing Day) 26 December (Feast of the Assumption) on In case of theft or loss, 15 August. Safe Travel always report the incident to the police within 24 hours Public holidays include the The greatest risk visitors and ask for a statement. following: face in Rome is from pick- Main Police Station Capodanno (New Year’s Day) pockets and thieves. There’s (Questura;%06 4 68 61; 1 January no reason for paranoia, but http://questure.poliziadistato. Epifania (Epiphany) 6 January you need to be aware that it; Via San Vitale 15; h8.30am- Pasquetta (Easter Monday) the problem exists and to 1.30pm Mon-Sat & 3.30-7pm March/April protect your valuables with Mon-Fri; gVia Nazionale) Giorno della Liberazione this in mind. Rome’s Questura is just off Via (Liberation Day) 25 April Nazionale. Festa del Lavoro (Labour Day) 1 May

271 Taxes & Refunds ¨¨Avoid making international put back an hour on the last calls from a hotel, as rates are Sunday in October. A 22% value-added tax high. known as IVA (Imposta sul ¨¨The cheapest way to call is Italy operates on a 24- Valore Aggiunta) is included to use an app such as Skype or hour clock, so 6pm is written in the price of most goods Viber, connecting through the as 18:00. and services. Tax-free shop- wi-fi at your hotel/B&B etc. ping is available at some ¨¨Another cheap option is to Toilets D i rec to ry A–Z TA X E S & R E F U N D S shops. use an international calling card. Note, however, that there Public toilets are not wide- Non-EU residents who are very few public payphones spread but you’ll find them spend more than €155 at left in Rome, so consider a at St Peter’s Square and one shop at a single time prepaid card that allows you to Stazione Termini (€1). If can claim a refund when call from any phone. Cards are you’re caught short, the best leaving the EU. The refund available at newsstands and thing to do is to nip into a only applies to purchases tobacconists. cafe or bar. from stores that display a ‘Tax Free’ sign. When mak- Mobile Phones Tourist ing the purchase, ask for Information a tax-refund voucher, to ¨¨Italian mobile phones operate be filled in with the date of on the GSM 900/1800 network, There are tourist information the purchase and its value. which is compatible with the points at Fiumicino (Fiumi- When leaving the EU, get this rest of Europe and Australia cino Airport; International Arriv- voucher stamped at customs but not always with the North als, Terminal 3; h8am-8.45pm) and take it to the nearest tax- American GSM or CDMA sys- and Ciampino (Arrivals Hall; refund counter where you’ll tems – check with your service h8.30am-6pm) airports, and get an immediate refund, provider. locations across the city: either in cash or charged to ¨¨The cheapest way of using ¨¨Piazza delle Cinque Lune your credit card. your mobile is to buy a prepaid (Map p296; Piazza delle (prepagato) Italian SIM card. Cinque Lune; h9.30am-7pm; Telephone TIM (Telecom Italia Mobile; gCorso del Rinascimento) www.tim.it), Wind (www.wind. Near Piazza Navona. Domestic Calls it), Vodafone (www.vodafone. ¨¨Stazione Termini (Map it) and Tre (www.tre.it) all offer p312; %06 06 08; www. ¨¨Rome’s area code is %06. SIM cards and have retail out- turismoroma.it; Via Giovanni Area codes are an integral part lets across town. Giolitti 34; h9am-5pm; mTer- of all Italian phone numbers ¨¨Note that by Italian law all mini) In the hall adjacent to and must be dialled even when SIM cards must be registered platform 24. calling locally. in Italy, so make sure you have ¨¨Fori Imperiali (Map ¨¨Mobile-phone numbers begin a passport or ID card with you p292; Via dei Fori Imperiali; with a three-digit prefix starting when you buy one. h9.30am-7pm; gVia dei Fori with a %3. Imperiali) ¨¨Toll-free numbers are known Public Phones ¨¨Via Marco Minghetti (Map as numeri verdi and usually p300; %06 06 08; www. start with %800. There are very few pay- turismoroma.it; Via Marco Ming- ¨¨Some six-digit national-rate phones left in Rome. Those hetti; h9.30am-7pm; gVia del numbers are also in use (such that are still working take Corso) Between Via del Corso as those for Alitalia and telephone cards (schede and the Trevi fountain. Trenitalia). telefoniche), available ¨¨Via Nazionale (Map p312; from tobacconists and %06 06 08; www.turismoroma. International Calls newsstands. it; Via Nazionale 184; h9.30am- 7pm; gVia Nazionale) In front ¨¨To call Rome from abroad, Time of the Palazzo delle Esposizioni. dial your country’s interna- ¨¨Castel Sant’Angelo (Map tional access code, then Italy’s Italy is in a single time zone, p304; Piazza Pia; h9.30am- country code (%39) followed one hour ahead of GMT. 7pm; gPiazza Pia) by %06 and the telephone Daylight-saving time, when number. clocks move forward one For information about the ¨¨To call abroad from Italy dial hour, starts on the last Vatican, contact the Ufficio %00, then the country and Sunday in March. Clocks are Pellegrini e Turisti (Map area codes, followed by the full p304; %06 6988 1662; St number.

272 D i rec to ry A–Z T R AV E L L E R S W I T H D I S A B I L I T I E S trains and help with transport do not need a visa for stays of Peter’s Square; h8.30am- in the station. Contact the of- up to 90 days. 6.30pm Mon-Sat; gPiazza del fice 24 hours ahead if you know ¨¨Nationals of other countries Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San you’re going to need assistance. will need a Schengen tourist Pietro). There are similar offices at visa – to check requirements The Comune di Roma Tiburtina and Ostiense stations. see www.schengenvisainfo. (%06 06 08; www.060608. ¨¨Airline companies should com/tourist-schengen-visa. it; h9am-9pm) runs a free be able to arrange assistance ¨¨All non-EU and non-Schengen multilingual tourist informa- at airports if you notify them nationals entering Italy for more tion phone line providing info of your needs in advance. than 90 days or for any reason on culture, shows, hotels, Alternatively, contact ADR other than tourism (such as transport etc. Its website is Assistance (www.adrassistance. study or work) may need a spe- also an excellent source of it) for assistance at Fiumicino or cific visa. Check http://visto information. Ciampino airports. peritalia.esteri.it for details. More practical informa- ¨¨Some taxis are equipped tion, for example, the near- to carry passengers in wheel- Permesso di est hospital, car park, etc chairs; ask for a taxi for a sedia Soggiorno can be answerd by phoning a rotelle (wheelchair). the Comune di Roma’s ¨¨Download Lonely Planet’s ¨¨A permesso di soggiorno ChiamaRoma (%06 06 06; free Accessible Travel guide (permit to stay, also referred h24hr) call centre. from http://lptravel.to/ to as a residence permit) is AccessibleTravel. required by all non-EU nationals Travellers with who stay in Italy longer than Disabilities Organisations three months. In theory, you should apply for one within eight ¨¨Rome isn’t an easy city for Presidio del Lazio (%800 days of arriving in Italy. travellers with disabilities. Cob- 271027; www.presidiolazio. ¨¨EU citizens do not require bled streets, paving stones, it; hcall centre 9am-1pm) is a permesso di soggiorno but blocked pavements and tiny lifts a regional service centre that are required to register with are difficult for the wheelchair- can provide useful local infor- the local registry office (ufficio bound, while the relentless mation. anagrafe) if they stay for more traffic can be disorienting for Sage Traveling (www.sage than three months. partially sighted travellers or traveling.com) is a US-based ¨¨Check exact requirements on those with hearing difficulties. agency started by wheelchair www.poliziadistato.it – click on ¨¨Getting around on public user John Sage, who has the English tab and then follow transport is difficult. All stations visited over 70 countries in the links. on metro line B have wheelchair Europe. It offers practical ¨¨The main office dealing with access and lifts except for Circo advice and tailor-made tours permits is the Ufficio Im- Massimo, Colosseo and Cavour. for disabled travellers. migrazione (%06 4686 3911; On line A, Cipro and Termini are http://questure.poliziadistato. equipped with lifts. Note, how- Visas it/it/Roma; Via Teofilo Patini; ever, that just because a station h8.30-noon Mon-Fri & 3-5pm has a lift doesn’t mean it will ¨¨Italy is one of the 26 Euro- Tue & Thu; gVia Salviati). necessarily be working. pean countries to make up the ¨¨Bus 590 covers the same Schengen area. There are no Women Travellers route as metro line A and is one customs controls when travel- of 19 bus and tram services with ling between Schengen coun- Sexual harrassment can be wheelchair access. Routes with tries, so the visa rules that apply an issue in Rome. If you feel disabled access are indicated on to Italy apply to all Schengen yourself being groped on a bus stops. countries. crowded bus or metro, a loud ¨¨If travelling by train, ring the ¨¨EU citizens do not need a visa ‘che schifo!’ (how disgust- national helpline %199 30 30 to enter Italy – a valid ID card or ing!) will draw attention to 60 to arrange assistance. At passport is sufficient. the incident. Otherwise take Stazione Termini, the Sala ¨¨Nationals of some other all the usual precautions you Blu Assistenza Disabili countries, including Australia, would in any large city and, (Map p312; %800 90 60 60; Canada, Israel, Japan, New Zea- as in most places, avoid wan- Stazione Termini; h6.45am- land, Switzerland and the USA, dering around alone late at 9.30pm; mTermini) next to night, especially in the area platform 1 can provide informa- around Termini station. tion on wheelchair-accessible

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 273 Language When in Rome, you’ll find that locals appreci- Hello. Buongiorno. bwon·jor·no ate you trying their language, no matter how Goodbye. Arrivederci. a·ree·ve·der·chee muddled you may think you sound. Italian is not difficult to pronounce as the sounds used Yes. Sì. see in spoken Italian can all be found in English. No. No. no Note that, in our pronunciation guides, ai is pronounced as in ‘aisle’, ay as in ‘say’, ow Excuse me. Mi scusi. (pol) mee skoo·zee as in ‘how’, dz as the ‘ds’ in ‘lids’, and that r is Scusami. (inf) skoo·za·mee a strong and rolled sound. Keep in mind too that Italian consonants can have a stronger, Sorry. Mi dispiace. mee dees·pya·che emphatic pronunciation – if the consonant is written as a double letter, it should be pro- Please. Per favore. per fa·vo·re nounced a little stronger. This difference in the pronunciation of single and double consonants Thank you. Grazie. gra·tsye can mean a difference in meaning, eg sonno son·no (sleep) versus sono so·no (I am). The You’re welcome. Prego. pre·go Italian ch is is usually pronounced as a hard c, so, for example, ‘chiesa’ is ‘key-esa’. How are you? Come sta/stai? (pol/inf) ko·me sta/stai If you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English, you’ll be understood. The Fine. And you? stressed syllables are indicated with italics. Bene. E Lei/tu? (pol/inf) be·ne e lay/too BASICS What’s your name? ko·me see kya·ma Come si chiama? pol ko·me tee kya·mee Italian has two words for ‘you’ – use the polite Come ti chiami? inf form Lei lay if you’re talking to strangers, of- ficials or people older than you. With people My name is ... mee kya·mo ... familiar to you or younger than you, you can Mi chiamo ... use the informal form tu too. Do you speak English? par·la/par·lee In Italian, all nouns and adjectives are either Parla/Parli een·gle·ze masculine or feminine, and so are the articles inglese? (pol/inf) il/la eel/la (the) and un/una oon/oo·na (a) that go with the nouns. I don’t understand. non ka·pee·sko Non capisco. In this chapter the polite/informal and mas- culine/feminine options are included where ACCOMMODATION necessary, separated with a slash and indi- Do you have Avete una a·ve·te oo·na cated with ‘pol/inf’ and ‘m/f’. a ... room? camera ...? ka·me·ra ... WANT MORE? double doppia con do·pya kon For in-depth language information and letto matri- le·to ma·tree· handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s moniale mo·nya·le Italian phrasebook. You’ll find it at shop. lonelyplanet.com, or you can buy single singola seen·go·la Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store. How much is Quanto costa kwan·to kos·ta it per ...? per ...? per ... night una notte oo·na no·te person persona per·so·na

274 Is breakfast included? KEY PATTERNS La colazione è la ko·la·tsyo·ne e compresa? kom·pre·sa To get by in Italian, mix and match air-con aria a·rya these simple patterns with words of condizionata kon·dee·tsyo·na·ta your choice: bathroom bagno ba·nyo When’s (the next flight)? LANGUAGE Directions campsite A che ora è a ke o·ra e guesthouse campeggio kam·pe·jo (il prossimo volo)? (eel pro·see·mo vo·lo) hotel youth hostel pensione pen·syo·ne Where’s (the station)? Dov’è (la stazione)? do·ve (la sta·tsyo·ne) albergo al·ber·go window ostello della os·te·lo de·la I’m looking for (a hotel). Sto cercando sto cher·kan·do gioventù jo·ven·too (un albergo). (oon al·ber·go) finestra fee·nes·tra Do you have (a map)? DIRECTIONS Ha (una pianta)? a (oo·na pyan·ta) Where’s …? do·ve … Is there (a toilet)? Dov’è …? C’è (un gabinetto)? che (oon ga·bee·ne·to) What’s the address? kwa·le leen·dee·ree·tso I’d like (a coffee). vo·ray (oon ka·fe) Qual’è l’indirizzo? Vorrei (un caffè). Could you please write it down? I’d like to (hire a car). Vorrei (noleggiare vo·ray (no·le·ja·re Può scriverlo, pwo skree·ver·lo una macchina). oo·na ma·kee·na) per favore? per fa·vo·re Can I (enter)? Can you show me (on the map)? Posso (entrare)? po·so (en·tra·re) Può mostrarmi pwo mos·trar·mee Could you please (help me)? (sulla pianta)? (soo·la pyan·ta) Può (aiutarmi), pwo (a·yoo·tar·mee) at the corner all’angolo a·lan·go·lo per favore? per fa·vo·re al se·ma·fo·ro at the traffic al semaforo Do I have to (book a seat)? lights dye·tro Devo (prenotare de·vo (pre·no·ta·re lon·ta·no un posto)? oon po·sto) behind dietro da·van·tee a vee·chee·no far lontano a·kan·to a Please bring the bill. dee fron·te a Mi porta il conto, in front of davanti a sem·pre per favore? mee por·ta eel kon·to dee·ree·to per fa·vo·re near vicino a see·nee·stra a de·stra next to accanto a I’d like to Vorrei vo·ray reserve a opposite di fronte a table for ... prenotare un pre·no·ta·re oon straight ahead sempre tavolo per ... ta·vo·lo per ... diritto (two) (due) (doo·e) to the left a sinistra people persone per·so·ne to the right a destra (eight) le (otto) le (o·to) o’clock EATING & DRINKING I don’t eat ... Non mangio ... non man·jo … eggs uova wo·va What would you recommend? fish pesce pe·she Cosa mi consiglia? ko·za mee kon·see·lya nuts noci no·chee (red) meat carne kar·ne What’s in that dish? kwa·li een·gre·dyen·tee (rossa) (ro·sa) Quali ingredienti chee so·no een ci sono in kwe·sto pya·to questo piatto? What’s the local speciality? Qual’è la specialità kwa·le la spe·cha·lee·ta di questa regione? dee kwe·sta re·jo·ne Key Words That was delicious! e·ra skwee·zee·to bar locale lo·ka·le Era squisito! bottle bottiglia bo·tee·lya Cheers! sa·loo·te breakfast prima pree·ma Salute! colazione ko·la·tsyo·ne

275 Signs Entrance pork maiale ma·ya·le LANGUAGE Eating & Drinking Entrata/Ingresso Exit prawn gambero gam·be·ro Uscita Open salmon salmone sal·mo·ne Aperto Closed scallops capasante ka·pa·san·te Chiuso Information seafood frutti di froo·tee dee Informazioni Prohibited mare ma·re Proibito/Vietato Toilets shrimp gambero gam·be·ro Gabinetti/Servizi Men squid calamari ka·la·ma·ree Uomini Women trout trota tro·ta Donne tuna tonno to·no bar turkey tacchino ta·kee·no fre·do veal vitello vee·te·lo che·na cafe bar lee·sta de·le Fruit & Vegetables cold freddo be·van·de mela me·la dinner cena for·ke·ta apple drink list lista delle bee·kye·re bevande a·lee·men·ta·ree beans fagioli fa·jo·lee fork forchetta kal·do glass bicchiere kol·te·lo cabbage cavolo ka·vo·lo grocery store alimentari pran·dzo hot caldo mer·ka·to capsicum peperone pe·pe·ro·ne knife coltello me·noo lunch pranzo pya·to carrot carota ka·ro·ta market mercato ree·sto·ran·te menu menù pee·kan·te cauliflower cavolfiore ka·vol·fyo·re plate piatto koo·kya·yo restaurant ristorante ve·je·ta·rya·no cucumber cetriolo che·tree·o·lo spicy piccante spoon cucchiaio kon fruit frutta froo·ta vegetariano sen·tsa vegetarian grapes uva oo·va (food) con man·dzo with senza po·lo lemon limone lee·mo·ne without vong-o-lay a·na·tra lentils lenticchie len·tee·kye pe·she a·reen·ga mushroom funghi foon·gee a·nye·lo a·ra·gos·ta nuts noci no·chee kar·ne ko·tse onions cipolle chee·po·le o·stree·ke orange arancia a·ran·cha peach pesca pe·ska peas piselli pee·ze·lee pineapple ananas a·na·nas plum prugna proo·nya Meat & Fish potatoes patate pa·ta·te beef manzo spinach spinaci spee·na·chee chicken pollo tomatoes pomodori po·mo·do·ree clams vongole vegetables verdura ver·doo·ra duck anatra fish pesce Question Words herring aringa How? Come? ko·me lamb agnello What? Che cosa? ke ko·za lobster aragosta When? Quando? kwan·do meat carne Where? Dove? do·ve mussels cozze Who? Chi? kee oysters ostriche Why? Perché? per·ke

276 It hurts here. mee fa ma·le kwee Mi fa male qui. Other pane pa·ne I’m allergic to … bread burro boo·ro Sono allergico/a a … (m/f) so·no a·ler·jee·ko/a a … butter formaggio for·ma·jo cheese L anguage Em e r g e n c i e s uova wo·va SHOPPING & SERVICES eggs miele mye·le honey ghiaccio gya·cho I’d like to buy ... vo·ray kom·pra·re ... ice marmellata mar·me·la·ta Vorrei comprare ... jam pasta pas·ta noodles olio o·lyo I’m just looking. sto so·lo gwar·dan·do oil pepe pe·pe Sto solo guardando. pepper riso ree·zo rice sale sa·le Can I look at it? salt minestra mee·nes·tra Posso dare un’occhiata? po·so da·re oo·no·kya·ta soup salsa di soia sal·sa dee so·ya soy sauce zucchero tsoo·ke·ro How much is this? kwan·to kos·ta kwe·sto sugar aceto a·che·to Quanto costa questo? vinegar It’s too expensive. È troppo caro/a. (m/f) e tro·po ka·ro/a Can you lower the price? pwo far·mee lo skon·to Può farmi lo sconto? There’s a mistake in the bill. C’è un errore nel conto. che oo·ne·ro·re nel kon·to Drinks birra bee·ra ATM Bancomat ban·ko·mat post office ufficio oo·fee·cho beer postale pos·ta·le tourist office ufficio del oo·fee·cho del coffee caffè ka·fe turismo too·reez·mo (orange) succo soo·ko juice (d’arancia) (da·ran·cha) milk latte la·te TIME & DATES red wine vino rosso vee·no ro·so What time is it? Che ora è? ke o·ra e soft drink bibita bee·bee·ta It’s one o’clock. È l’una. e loo·na tea tè te It’s (two) Sono le (due). so·no le (doo·e) o’clock. (mineral) acqua a·kwa water (minerale) (mee·ne·ra·le) Half past (one). (L’una) e (loo·na) e mezza. me·dza white wine vino bianco vee·no byan·ko EMERGENCIES in the morning di mattina dee ma·tee·na in the afternoon Help! in the evening di pomeriggio dee po·me·ree·jo Aiuto! a·yoo·to di sera dee se·ra Leave me alone! la·sha·mee een pa·che yesterday ieri ye·ree Lasciami in pace! today oggi o·jee tomorrow domani do·ma·nee I’m lost. Mi sono perso/a. (m/f) mee so·no per·so/a There’s been an accident. che sta·to oon C’è stato un incidente. een·chee·den·te Monday lunedì loo·ne·dee Tuesday martedì mar·te·dee Call the police! kya·mee la po·lee·tsee·a Wednesday mercoledì mer·ko·le·dee Chiami la polizia! Thursday giovedì jo·ve·dee Friday venerdì ve·ner·dee Call a doctor! kya·mee oon me·dee·ko Saturday sabato sa·ba·to Chiami un medico! Sunday domenica do·me·nee·ka Where are the toilets? Dove sono i do·ve so·no ee gabinetti? ga·bee·ne·tee I’m sick. mee sen·to ma·le Mi sento male.

277 January gennaio je·na·yo TRANSPORT February febbraio fe·bra·yo March marzo mar·tso At what time does the ... leave/arrive? April aprile a·pree·le A che ora a ke o·ra May maggio ma·jo parte/arriva ...? par·te/a·ree·va ... June giugno joo·nyo July luglio loo·lyo boat la nave la na·ve August agosto a·gos·to September settembre se·tem·bre bus l’autobus low·to·boos LANGUAGE Numbers October ottobre o·to·bre November novembre no·vem·bre ferry il traghetto eel tra·ge·to December dicembre dee·chem·bre metro la metro- la me·tro· politana po·lee·ta·na plane l’aereo la·e·re·o train il treno eel tre·no NUMBERS ... ticket un biglietto ... oon bee·lye·to uno oo·no one-way di sola dee so·la 1 andata an·da·ta return di andata e dee an·da·ta e 2 due doo·e ritorno ree·tor·no 3 tre tre fermata fer·ma·ta dell’autobus del ow·to·boos 4 quattro kwa·tro bus stop bee·na·ryo bee·lye·te·ree·a 5 cinque cheen·kwe o·ra·ryo platform binario sta·tsyo·ne 6 sei say fe·ro·vyar·ya ticket office biglietteria 7 sette se·te timetable orario 8 otto o·to train station stazione 9 nove no·ve ferroviaria 10 dieci dye·chee 20 venti ven·tee Does it stop at ...? Si ferma a ...? 30 trenta tren·ta see fer·ma a ... 40 quaranta kwa·ran·ta Please tell me when we get to ... Mi dica per favore mee dee·ka per fa·vo·re 50 cinquanta cheen·kwan·ta quando arriviamo a ... kwan·do a·ree·vya·mo a ... 60 sessanta se·san·ta I want to get off here. Voglio scendere qui. vo·lyo shen·de·re kwee 70 settanta se·tan·ta 80 ottanta o·tan·ta I’d like to hire a bicycle. 90 novanta no·van·ta Vorrei noleggiare vo·ray no·le·ja·re una bicicletta. oo·na bee·chee·kle·ta 100 cento chen·to 1000 mille mee·lel I have a flat tyre. Ho una gomma bucata. o oo·na go·ma boo·ka·ta I’d like to have my bicycle repaired. Vorrei fare riparare la vo·ray fa·re ree·pa·ra·re la mia bicicletta. mee·a bee·chee·kle·ta

L A N G UAG E G L OSSAR Y278 grattachecca – ice drink flavoured with fruit and syrup Glossary grotta – cave abbazia – abbey isola – island (pizza) al taglio – (pizza) by the slice lago – lake albergo – hotel largo – small square alimentari – grocery shop; delicatessen locanda – inn; small hotel anfiteatro – amphitheatre mar, mare – sea aperitivo – pre-evening meal drink and snack mausoleo – mausoleum; stately and magnifi- arco – arch cent tomb autostrada – motorway; highway battistero – baptistry mercato – market biblioteca – library necropoli – ancient name for cemetery or burial biglietto – ticket site borgo – archaic name for a small town, village or town sector (often dating to Middle Ages) nord – north camera – room osteria – casual tavern or eatery presided over campo – field by a host cappella – chapel Cappella Sistina – Sistine Chapel palazzo – mansion; palace; large building of any carabinieri – police with military and civil duties type, including an apartment block Carnevale – carnival period between Epiphany and Lent palio – contest casa – house Papa – Pope castello – castle passeggiata – traditional evening stroll cattedrale – cathedral pasticceria – cake/pastry shop catacomba – catacomb pensione – guesthouse centro sociale –social centre; often a venue for piazza – square concerts, club nights, cultural events piazzale – large open square centro storico – historic centre pietà – literally ‘pity’ or ‘compassion’; sculp- chiesa – church ture, drawing or painting of the dead Christ chiostro – cloister; covered walkway, usually supported by the Madonna enclosed by columns, around a quadrangle città – town; city pinacoteca – art gallery colonna – column PIT (Punto Informativo Turistico) – Tourist comune – equivalent to a municipality or Information Point county; a town or city council; historically, a self–governing town or city ponte – bridge corso – boulevard porta – gate; door duomo – cathedral porto – port enoteca – wine bar prenotare – to book or reserve espresso – short black coffee reale – royal EUR (Esposizione Universale di Roma) – ristorante – restaurant outlying district in south Rome known for its rocca – fortress rationalist architecture sala – room; hall ferrovia – railway salumeria – delicatessen festa – feast day; holiday santuario – sanctuary; 1. the part of a church fontana – fountain above the altar; 2. an especially holy place in a foro – forum temple (antiquity) fiume – river gelateria – ice-cream shop scalinata – staircase giardino – garden scavi – excavations spiaggia – beach stadio – stadium stazione – station stazione marittima – ferry terminal strada – street; road sud – south

279 superstrada – expressway; highway with frutti di mare – seafood; usually served as a L anguage F OO D G L OSSAR Y divided lanes sauce with pasta, comprising tomatoes, clams, tartufo – truffle mussels, and perhaps prawns and calamari tavola calda – literally ‘hot table’; pre-prepared gnocchi alla romana – ­semolina-based mini- meat, pasta and vegetable selection, often dumplings baked with ragù or tomato sugo; self-service traditionally served on Thursdays teatro – theatre involtini – thin slices of veal or beef,rolled up with tempietto – small temple sage or sometimes vegetables and mozzarella. tempio – temple minestra di arzilla con pasta e broccoli – skate terme – thermal baths soup with pasta and broccoli; Roman-Jewish dish tesoro – treasury served only at the most traditional restaurants Tevere – Tiber pasta con lenticchie – popular local dish of torre – tower pasta with lentils trattoria – simple restaurant pasta e ceci – pasta with chickpeas; warms the Trenitalia – Italian State Railways; also known cockles in winter as Ferrovie dello Stato (FS) pizza bianca – ‘white pizza’ unique to Rome; a via – street; road plain pizza brushed with salt, olive oil and often Via Appia Antica – Appian Way rosemary; can split and fill to make a sandwich viale – avenue pollo alla romana – chicken cooked in butter, vico – alley; alleyway marjoram, garlic, white wine and tomatoes or villa – town house; country house; also the park peppers surrounding the house polpette al sugo – meatballs with traditional tomato sauce Food Glossary porchetta – a hog roasted on a spit with herbs and an abundance of finocchio selvatico (wild fennel) abbacchio al forno – lamb roasted with ragù– classic Italian meat sauce traditionally rosemary and garlic; usually accompanied by made by slowly stewing cuts of meat, or mince, in rosemary-roasted potatoes a rich tomato sugo agnello alla cacciatora – lamb ‘hunter-style’ rigatoni alla pajata – thick ridged pasta tubes with onion and fresh tomatoes with the small intestine of a milk-fed calf or lamb baccalà – salt cod, often served deepfried in the saltimbocca alla romana – the deliciously ­Roman–Jewish tradition named ‘leap in the mouth’; a veal cutlet jazzed up bresaola – wind-dried beef, a feature of Roman- with sparing amounts of prosciutto and sage Jewish cuisine; served as a replacement for spaghetti alla carbonara – sauce of egg, cheese prosciutto (ham) and guanciale (cured pig’s cheek); the egg is bruschette – grilled bread rubbed with garlic, added raw, and stirred into the hot pasta to cook it splashed with olive oil and sprinkled with salt, spaghetti alla gricia – pasta with pecorino most commonly then topped by tomatoes. cheese, black pepper and pancetta; bucatini all’amatriciana – thick spaghetti with spaghetti con le vongole – spaghetti with clams tomato sauce, onions, pancetta, cheese and chilli; and a dash of red chilli to pep things up; sometimes originated in Amatrice, a town east of Rome, as served with tomatoes, sometimes without an adaptation of spaghetti alla gricia stracciatella – humble chicken broth given a lift cacio e pepe – pasta mixed with freshly grated by the addition of Parmesan and whisked egg pecorino romano, ground black pepper and a sugo – all-purpose tomato sauce served in many dash of olive oil dishes; it’s traditionally combined with basilico carciofi alla giudia – deepfried ‘Jewish-style’ (basil) artichokes; the heart is soft and succulent, the supplì – rice balls, like large croquettes; if leaves taste like delicious crisps they contain mozzarella, they’re called supplì carciofi alla romana – artichokes boiled with oil, a telefono because when you break one open, garlic and mint the cheese forms a string like a telephone wire coda alla vaccinara – beef tail stewed with garlic, between the two halves parsley, onion, carrots, celery and spices trippa alla romana – tripe cooked with potatoes, fiori di zucca – courgette flowers, usually stuffed tomato and mint and sprinkled with pecorino with mozzarella and anchovies and fried cheese; a typical Saturday-in-Rome dish

280 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. WRITER THANKS Bernard (smart dining tips around Trevi Fountain), Fiona Brewer (food tour guide), Sian Lloyd and Duncan Garwood Lorna Davidson (superb clubbing recommenda- tions and Trastevere drinking tips), Gina Tringali A big thank you to fellow author Nicola Williams for and Eleonora Baldwin (professional foodies at Casa her suggestions and great work, and to Anna Tyler Mia), passionate art historians Molly McllWrath and at LP for all her support. In Rome, grazie to Silvia Daisy de Plume. Finally, kudos to my highly skilled, Prosperi for all her useful insights and Richard enthusiastic, trilingual, family-travel research team: McKenna for his entertaining lunch company. As Niko, Mischa and Kaya. always, a big, heartfelt hug to Lidia and the boys, Ben and Nick. Nicola Williams ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Grazie mille to those who shared their Roman love Cover photograph: View of St Peter’s Basilica from and insider knowledge: Linda Martinez (The Bee- Castel Sant’Angelo, Giuseppe Greco/4Corners © hive), Daniela and Lorenza (Arco del Lauro), Elyssa Illustration on pp58–9 by Javier Zarracina.

281 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK Curator Saralinda Turner Assisting Editors Katie This 10th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Anna Connolly, Victoria Harrison, Planet’s Rome guidebook Tyler Gabrielle Innes, Monique was researched and written Product Editors Jenna Perrin, Gabbi Stefanos, Fionn by Duncan Garwood and Myers, Sandie Kestell Twomey Nicola Williams. The previ- Senior Cartographer Cover Researcher Naomi ous edition was written by Anthony Phelan Parker Duncan Garwood and Abigail Book Designer Clara Thanks to Will Allen, Liz Blasi. This guidebook was Monitto Heynes, Chris Martin, Norma produced by the following: Postin, Lukasz Sokolowski

282 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index See also separate subindexes for: 5 EATING P286 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P287 3 ENTERTAINMENT P288 7 SHOPPING P288 4 SLEEPING P288 A modern designs 254 Basilica dei SS Cosma e Bernini, Gian Lorenzo 121, periods 245, 247 Damiano 64-5 135, 139, 237, 251 Abbazia Greca di San Nilo post-unification 251-2, architecture 74, 81, 95, 99, (Grottaferrata) 203 Basilica dei SS Quattro 101, 105, 119, 120, 130 254 Coronati 170 accommodation 15, 208-16, religious 135 sculptures 7, 105, 179, 7 see also Sleeping Renaissance 248-9 Basilica di San Clemente 170 bicycle travel, see cycling subindex, individual rococo 252 Basilica di San Giovanni Bioparco 25 neighbourhoods signature buildings 250 boat travel 262, 266 costs 209 Arco degli Acetari 79 Battista dei Fiorentini 79 Bocca della Verità 25, 27, 67 language 273-4 Arco di Costantino 64 Basilica di San Giovanni in books 218, 240 websites 208 Arco Farnese 79 artisans 44 Laterano 168 architecture 249 activities 22-3 arts 137, 153, 234-43 Basilica di San Lorenzo Fuori catacombs 193 Agrippa, Marcus 73 baroque 236-7 history 228 air travel 260-1 bronzework 234 le Mura 143 politics 229 Ammaniti, Niccolò 240 churches 236 Basilica di San Lorenzo in Borghese, Cardinal Scipione Ancient Rome 49, 50-69, cinema 240-2 Caffarelli 179 contemporary 114, 237 Damaso 79 50, 292-3 Counter-Reformation Basilica di San Marco 67 Borgo 49, 116-33, 116, accommodation 210, 211 Basilica di San Nicola in 304-5 drinking & nightlife 51, 69 236-7 food 51, 67 dance 243 Carcere 81 Borromini, Francesco 251 highlights 50-1, 52-63, 64 Italian futurism 237 Basilica di San Paolo Fuori Braccio Nuovo 123 lookouts 51 literature 218, 238-40 Bramante, Donato 248 sights 52-67 music 40-1, 242-3 le Mura 195, 134-135 budget 14-15, 27, 29 transport 51 Neoclassicism 237 Basilica di San Pietro in bus travel walks 68, 68 painting & sculpture anti-fascists 240 Vincol 140 to/from Rome 262 antiques 44 234-7 Basilica di San Sebastiano within Rome 262, 263, aperitivo 26, 38 religious art 21, 135, Appian Way, see Via Appia 191 266 Antica 235-6, 139 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in business hours 29, 269 aqueducts 245-6 Renaissance 235-6 archaeological sites 20-1, Roman developments Trastevere 156 C 66, see also individual Basilica di Santa Maria del sites 234-5 Caligula 229-30 architecture 244-55 street art 195, 219 Popolo 99 Campidoglio 65-6 20th century 251-2, 254 theatre 41, 243 Basilica di Santa Maria in Campo de’ Fiori 77-8, 95, Ancient Rome 244-7 ATMs 269 baroque 249-51 Auditoria di Adriano 65 Montesanto 101 94, 165 books 249 Auditorium Parco della Basilica di Santa Maria in Capanne Romulee 55 early Christian 247-8 Musica 181 Capitoline Museums 11, Etruscan 244 Aurelian Wall 249 Trastevere 154, 134, 154 glossary 255 Aventino 171-2 Basilica di Santa Maria 61-3, 63, 11, 61 Capo di Bove 194 Sights 000 B Maggiore 139, 139, 253 car travel 261, 264-5 Map Pages 000 Basilica di Santa Maria Caravaggio 62, 76, 99, 105, Photo Pages 000 Bajani, Andrea 240 ballet 41 Sopra Minerva 75 179, 236-7 bars 37 Basilica di Santa Carcere Mamertino 65 Basilica dei Santi Apostoli Carnevale Romano 22 Prassede 140 Casa di Augusto 55 104 Basilica di Santa Sabina 171 Casa di Goethe 101-2 Basilica di Sant’Agnese Fuori Casa di Livia 55 Case Romane 170-1 le Mura & Mausoleo di Casina delle Civette 183 Santa Costanza 184 Basilica di Sant’Agostino 76 basilicas 247-8 basketball 42 bathrooms 271 B&Bs 208 beer 37-8 bella figura 165, 258 Berlusconi, Silvio 230

Casino dei Principi 183 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei courses 283INDEX C-G Casino Nobile 183 Miracoli 101 food 159 Castel Gandolfo 203, 204 wine 159 F Castel Sant’Angelo 130 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Castelli Romani 202-4 Pace & Chiostro del craft beer 37-8 family life 257-8 Castello di Giulio II (Ostia Bramante 77 credit cards 269 fascism 240 Criptoportico Neroniano 55 fashion 44, 258 Antica) 201 Chiesa di Santa Maria della cuisine fast food 33 Catacombe di Priscilla Vittoria 105, 135 Fendi 13, 100, 114 Roman 28-35 Festa de’ Noantri 23 182-3, 192-193 Chiesa di Santa Maria in regional 110 festivals 22-3 Catacombe di San Callisto Aracoeli 66 culture 218-19 film directors 241 currency 14 films 218, 221, 241 194, 193 Chiesa di Sant’Agnese in customs regulations 267 Flaminio 181-2 Catacombe di San Agone 74 cycling 189, 264, 266, 189 Fontana dei Quattro Sebastiano 191 Chiesa di Sant’Andrea al D Fiumi 74 Catacombe di Santa Quirinale 103 Fontana del Mascherone 79 dance 41, 243 Fontana del Moro 74, 47 Domitilla 194 Chiesa di Sant’Andrea della dangers, see safety Fontana del Nettuno 74, catacombs 24, 190, 191, Valle 79 delis 33 Della Rovere Chapel 99 94-5 192-3 Chiesa di Sant’Eligio degli disabilities, travellers Fontana dell’Acqua Paola cats 25 Orefici 79 Cattedrale di San Pietro with 272 157 Chiesa di Sant’Eusebio 141 discount cards 268 Fontana delle Naiadi 142 (Frascati) 203 Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di Domus Augustana 55 Fontana delle Rane 183 Celio 170-1 Domus Aurea 140-1 Fontana delle Tartarughe 80 cell phones 14, 271 Loyola 82 Domus Flavia 55 food 28-35, 44, 31, 28, see Centocelle 148-9 Chiesa di Santissimi dress codes 37 centri sociali 37 drinking 36-9, see also Eating Centro Storico 49, 70-93, Vincenzo e Anastasio subindex, individual 104 also Drinking neighbourhoods 70, 296-7, 298, 164-5 Chiesa di Sant’Ivo alla subindex, individual blogs 32 accommodation 210, Sapienza 251 neighbourhoods costs 29 Chiesa di Santo Stefano language 274-6 etiquette 29 211-12 Rotondo 171 diving 261, 264-5 Kosher 87 drinking & nightlife 71, Chiesa Dio Padre Duomo di Orvieto language 274-6, 279 Misericordioso 254 (Orvieto) 206 opening hours 29 88, 90-1 Chiesa Nuova 77 seasonal produce 30-1 entertainment 91 Chiesa Santi Pietro e E specialities 30 food 71, 82-8 Paolo 196 football 26, 41-2 highlights 70-1, 72-4, 76, Chigi Chapel 99 electricity 267 Foro Italico 182 children, travel with 24-5 Elefantino 75 Frascati 203, 204 78, 80, 82 churches 27, 71, 97, 135, emergencies 267 free attractions 27 shopping 91-3 236, 247 frescoes 129, 237, 155 sights 72-82 Ciampino Airport 261 language 276 transport 71 Cimitero Acattolico per gli enoteche 32, 37 G Stranieri 172 emperors 222 walks 89, 89 Cimitero di Campo Verano entertainment 40-3, see Gagosian Gallery 105 centurions 65 143 Galleria Colonna 102 Cerasi Chapel 99 cinema 198, 240-2 also Entertainment Galleria Corsini 156 Cerveteri 204-5 Circo di Massenzio 189 subindex, individual Galleria degli Arazzi 124 Chiesa del Domine Quo Circo Massimo 64 neighbourhoods Galleria dei Candelabri 124 Città dell’Acqua 104 equestrian events 42 Galleria delle Carte Vadis 194 Civitavecchia Port 262 Esposizione Universale Chiesa del Gesù 80 classical music 40 Roma 252 Geografiche 126 Chiesa della Trinità dei climate 15 Esquilino 49, 136-51, 136, Galleria Doria Pamphilj 82 clubs 37 312-13, 311 Galleria Nazionale 181 Monti 102, 20 cocktails 38 etiquette 17, 29 Galleria Sciarra 104 Chiesa di San coffee 26, 38 Etruscan art 234 galleries 20, 177, 237 Colonna di Marco EUR district 196, 252 Garbatella 195-6 Bartolomeo 81 Aurelio 81 events 22-3 gay travellers 38, 175, 267-8 Chiesa di San Carlino alle Explora – Museo dei gelato 25, 33, 84, 185, 3, 24 Colosseum 7, 24, 52-3, 6-7, Bambini di Roma 182 Gianicolo 49, 152-63, 152, Quattro Fontane 104 52, 253 Chiesa di San Francesco 308-9 Constantine 225 d’Assisi a Ripa Grande Convento dei 156 Chiesa di San Luigi dei Cappuccini 105 Francesi 76 costs 14, 29, 209 Chiesa di San Martino ai Cotral 264 Monti 141 Chiesa di Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 141 Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua 13

INDEX G-P284 L transport 137 music 40-1, 242-3 Gianicolo Hill 157 Mussolini, Benito 232-3 Giardini di Villa Barberini La Galleria Nazionale 181 mosaics 235, 139 (Castel Gandolfo) 203 Lago Albano 203 motorcycle travel 264-5 N gladiators 229 language 17, 273-9 murals 195 gluten-free dining 33 Largo di Torre Argentina 75 Musei di Villa Torlonia 183 Natale di Roma 22 grattachecca 158 Last Judgment 129 Museo Archeologico Necropoli di Banditaccia Grottaferrata 203 Le Domus Romane di guesthouses 208 Nazionale (Orvieto) 207 (Cerveteri) 205 Palazzo Valentini 104 Museo Archeologico Necropoli di Tarquinia H legal matters 268-9 Leonardo da Vinci Airport Nazionale Tarquiniense (Tarquinia) 205 hip hop 243 (Tarquinia) 205 Necropoli Via Triumphalis history 220-33 260-1 Museo Barracco di Leone, Sergio 242 Scultura Antica 27 130 Ancient Rome 220-2 lesbian travellers 38, 175, Museo Capitoline Centrale Neoclassicism 237 books 228, 229 Montemartini 195-6 newspapers 270 Christianity 225-7 267-8 Museo Carlo Bilotti 27 nightclubs 37 corruption 229-30 literature 218, 238-40, see Museo Chiaramonti 123 nightlife 36-9, 164-5, see Counter-Reformation 229 Museo d’Arte Contempora- fascism 232-3 also books nea di Roma 182 also Drinking Grand Tour 231-2 local life 26, 256-8 Museo dei Bambini di subindex, individual literature 239 Lungo il Tevere 23 Roma 24 neighbourhoods papal control 226-7 Museo del Palazzo Nomentano 183-4 Post-WWII 233 M Apostolico (Castel Protestant protest 228-9 Gandolfo) 203 O Protestant MACRO Testaccio 172 Museo dell’Ara Pacis 101 markets 33 Museo delle Cere 24 obelisks 244 Reformation 227 Mausoleo delle Fosse Museo delle Mura 24, 194 opening hours 29, 269 religious pilgrimages 231 Museo dell’Opera del opera 41, 243 Renaissance 227 Ardeatine 194 Duomo di Orvieto Orti Farnesiani 55 Roman Empire 223-5, 223 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella (Orvieto) 207 Orto Botanico 157 Tangentopoli 230 Museo di Roma 77 Orvieto 206-7 holidays 270 189, 190 Museo e Galleria Borghese Orvieto Underground home life 257-8 Mausoleo di Romolo 189 7, 178-80, 180, 7, 178 hostels 208 mausoleums 191 Museo Ebraico di Roma 80 (Orvieto) 207 hotels 208 Mazzucco, Melania 240 Museo Gregoriano Egizio osterie 32 measures 270 123-4 Ostia Antica 25, 200-1 I medical services 269 Museo Gregoriano Etrusco Ostiense 26, 195-6 Mercati di Traiano Museo 124 outdoor cinemas 41 ice cream, see gelato Museo Nazionale Cerite Imperial Forums 64 dei Fori Imperiali 65 (Cerveteri) 205 P insurance 268, 269 metro travel 262 Museo Nazionale degli internet access 268 Michelangelo 235-6, 249 Strumenti 141 Palatino 54-6, 56, 54 Isola Tiberina 81 Museo Nazionale delle Arti Palazzo Barberini 105 Italian 17, 273-9 architecture 65, 78, 79, del XXI Secolo 181 Palazzo Chigi 81 itineraries 18-19 95, 183 Museo Nazionale Etrusco Palazzo dei Conservatori di Villa Giulia 182 J sculptures 75, 120, Museo Nazionale Romano: 61-2, 61 140, 121 Crypta Balbi 75-6 Palazzo del Quirinale 103 jazz 243 Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo della Canceleria 79 Jewish Ghetto 79-81, 87 Sistine Chapel 126-9 Palazzo Altemps 78 Palazzo della Civiltà Jubilee 218-19 Museo Nazionale Romano: St Peter’s Basilica dome Palazzo Massimo alle Italiana 196 K 119, 8 Terme 138, 138 Palazzo delle Esposizioni Museo Nazionale Romano: Keats, John 231 Mithraeums 171 Terme di Diocleziano 142-3 Keats-Shelley House 102 Mithraism 171 142 Palazzo di Montecitorio 81 kiosk bars 186 mobile phones 14, 271 Museo Palatino 55 Palazzo Farnese 78 money 14, 17, 29, 209, 269 Museo Pio-Clementino 123 Palazzo Laterano 170 Sights 000 Monte Testaccio 172 Museo Storico Artistico Palazzo Nuovo 62 Map Pages 000 Monti, Esquilino & San 120 Palazzo Pamphilj 74 Photo Pages 000 Museo Storico della Palazzo Spada 78 Lorenzo 49, 136-51, Liberazione 142 Palazzo Valentini 24 136, 311, 312-13 museums 20, 177, 237 Palazzo Venezia 67 accommodation 210, Pantheon 9, 27, 72-3, 3, 214-15 drinking & nightlife 137, 5, 9, 72 147-50 Parco Savello 171 entertainment 150-1 parks 27 food 137, 143-7 Pasolini, Pier Paolo 238 highlights 136-7, 138-9 shopping 151 sights 140-3

285 Pasquino 77 public transport Scuderie Aldobrandini Tiburtina Bus Station 262 INDEX P-V passeggiata 26, 164-5 tickets & passes 264 (Frascati) 203 time 14, 271 pensions 208 Pentecost 73 pubs 37 Scuderie Papali al language 276-7 permesso di soggiorno 272 Quirinale 103 tipping 17, 29 Piazza Barberini 105 Q Tivoli 25, 201-2 Piazza Colonna 81 sculptures 7, 25, 114, 178, toilets 271 Piazza del Campidoglio Quartiere Coppedè 183 235, 8, 138, 178 Tomb of St Peter 121 Quartiere Garbatella 196 Torre del Moro (Orvieto) 65-6, 95 shopping 44-5, see Piazza del Popolo 95, 101 R also Shopping 207 Piazza del Quirinale 103 subindex, individual Torre dell’Orologio 77 Piazza della Repubblica 142 radio 270 neighbourhoods tourist information 14, Piazza di Pietra 81 Raggi, Virginia 218 Piazza di Santa Maria in Raphael 155, 236 Sistine Chapel 126-9, 271-2 refunds 17, 271 235-6, 128 tours 15, 159, 265-6 Trastevere 157 relics, see archaeological train travel 260, 263-4 Piazza di Spagna 95, smoking 270 tram travel 262, 263 sites soccer, see football transport 98, 98 religion 257 Southern Rome 49, 187-98, Piazza Navona 12, 74, 95, Renaissance art 235-6 language 277 Roma Pass 17 187, 318-19 Trastevere & Gianicolo 26, 165, 12, 94-5, 95, 165 Romaeuropa 23 accommodation 216 Piazza Venezia 66-7 Roman emperors 222 drinking & nightlife 188, 49, 152-63, 152, 308-9 Piazza Vittorio Roman Empire 223-5, 223 accommodation 210, Roman Forum 10, 57-60, 197-8 Emanuele II 141 entertainment 198 215-16 piazzas 13, 27, 94-5 3, 10, 57 food 188, 196-7 drinking & nightlife 153, picnics 69 Roman Insula 67 highlights 187-8, 189-91 Piè di Marmo 75 Roman lifestyles 256-8 sights 194-6 161-2 Roman Universal transport 188 entertainment 162 Pietà 121, 121 spaghetti westerns 242 food 153, 158-60 Pigneto 26, 148-9 Exhibition 196 highlights 152-3, 154-5 Pinacoteca 62, 122-3, 179 Rome Convention Centre Spanish Steps 98, 20, 98 shopping 162-3 Pincio Hill Gardens 101 spas 113 sights 156-8 Piscina delle Rose 196 La Nuvola 13, 196 sports 41-2 transport 153 pizza 25, 132 Romulus & Remus 55, 221 squares, see piazzas trattorias 32 pizzerias 32 rugby 42 St Peter’s Basilica 9, 118- travel to Rome 15, 260-2 planning ruins 188, see also travel within Rome 15, 21, 8, 19, 118 262-5 budgeting 14-15, 27, 29 archaeological sites St Peter’s Square 95, 130, Treaty of Rome 62 calendar of events 22-3 Trevi Fountain 12, 24, 27, children, travel with 24-5 S 19, 95 100, 12, 100 first-time visitors 16-17 Stadio di Domiziano 74 Tridente, Trevi & the itineraries 18-19 safety 16, 267, 270 Quirinale 49, 96-115, local life 26 Sala Sobieski 126 Stadio Olimpico 26, 40 96, 300-1 repeat visitors 13 Salario 182-3 Stanze di Raffaello 126 accommodation 210, Rome basics 14-15 San Giovanni & Testaccio street art 195, 219 Rome’s neighbourhoods street life 21, 164-5 212-13 49, 166-75, 166, 306-7 stumbling stones 156 drinking & nightlife 97, 48-9, 48 accommodation 210, 216 symbolism 192-3 travel seasons 14-15 drinking & nightlife 167, 111-12 websites 14-15 T entertainment 112 poets 238, 239 174-5 food 97, 105-7, 109-11 politics 218-19 entertainment 175 Tabularium 62 highlights 96-7, 98-100, Ponte Milvio 182 food 167, 172-4 Tarquinia 205 Ponte Sant’Angelo 130 highlights 166-7, 168-9 taxes 17, 271 101, 102, 103 Pope Francis 218-19 shopping 175 taxis 261, 262-3 shopping 112-15 popes 226 sights 170-2 Teatro di Marcello 80-1 sights 101-5 population 219 transport 167 telephone services 14, 271 transport 97 Porta Pia 183 San Lorenzo 49, 136-51, television 270 walks 108, 108 Portico d’Ottavia 80 136, 311, 312-13 Tempietto di Bramante & Triumphs & Laments 156-7 postal services 269-70 San Paolo 195-6 Santuario della Scala Santa Chiesa di San Pietro in U Prati 49, 116-33, 116, & Sancta Sanctorum Montorio 157 304-5 170 temples 245 underground sights 21, 117 Scavi Archeologici di Ostia tennis 42 public holidays 270 Antica (Ostia Antica) Terme di Caracalla 169, V 200-1 42, 169 Termini Train Station 261 vacations 270 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati Testaccio 49, 166-75, 166, 306-7 49, 116-33, 116, 304-5 theatre 41, 243

286 INDEX EATING accommodation 210, Villa Torlonia 183 Buccone 106 Forno La Renella 160 213-14 Villa Torlonia Bunker 184 Burbée 148 Forno Roscioli 85 Virgil 224, 238 Forno Roscioli Pietro 145 drinking & nightlife visas 272 C 117, 133 Vittoriano 66-7 G Vulgate Bible 239 Cacciani (Frascati) 204 entertainment 133 Cafè Cafè 172 Gelateria dei Gracchi 106 food 117, 131-2 W Caffè delle Arti 184 Gelateria del Teatro 84 highlights 116-17, 118-29 Caffetteria Chiostro del Gelateria dell’Angeletto 144 shopping 133 walks Ginger (Borgognona) 107 sights 130 Ancient Rome 68, 68 Bramante 83 Ginger (Sant’Eustachio) 83 transport 117 Centro Storico 89, 89 Cantina Simonetti Giolitti 84 Vatican Gardens 130 Tridente, Trevi & the Glass Hostaria 160 Vatican Grottoes 121 Quirinale 108, 108 (Frascati) 204 Grappolo d’Oro 86 Vatican Museums 9, 27, Casa Bleve 85 Green & Go 144 122-9, 125, 8, 122 weather 15 Casa Coppelle 83 Green T 83 vegan travellers 33 websites 14, 32, 37, 41, 208 Ciao Checca 87 Grezzo 144 vegetarian travellers 33 weights 270 Ciuri Ciuri 144 Vestal Virgins 60 wine 37, 159 Colline Emiliane 110 H Via Appia Antica 10, 189- women travellers 272 Cotto Crudo 131 90, 194, 11, 189 work 256-7 Crispi 110 Hostaria Dino e Toni 132 Via dei Condotti 102-3 Cups 173 Hostaria Romana 109 Via dei Coronari 76 Z Via del Governo Vecchio 77 D I Via Giulia 78-9 zoos 25 Via Margutta 115 Da Augusto 159 I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza 85 Viale di Trastevere 156-7 5EATING Da Enzo 158 I Sette Consoli (Orvieto) 207 viewpoints 21 Da Felice 173 Il Bocconcino 173 Villa Ada 183 A Da Francesco 85 Il Gelato 173 Villa Adriana (Tivoli) 201-2 Da Olindo 160 Il Giardino di Giulia e Villa Aldobrandini 141 Ai Tre Scalini 144 Da Teo 158 Villa Aldobrandini Gardens Al Gran Sasso 106 Da Valentino 144-5 Fratelli 196 (Frascati) 203 Alfredo e Ada 84 Dal Bolognese 107 Il Margutta 106 Villa Borghese 181 Al Moro 110 Dal Cavalier Gino 87-8 Il Sorpasso 132 Villa Borghese & Northern Al Pozzo Etrusco Dal Toscano 132 Imàgo 109 Rome 49, 176-86, 176, Del Frate 132 316-17 (Orvieto) 207 Di Pasqualetti (Orvieto) L accommodation 210, 216 Al Settimo Gelo 185 drinking & nightlife 177, Alimentari Pannella 207 La Campana 84 Ditirambo 86 La Carbonara 145 185-6 Carmela 69 Divin Ostilia 172-3 La Ciambella 83 entertainment 186 Alle Carette 143 Dolce Maniera 131 La Focaccia 84-5 food 177, 184-5 All’Oro 185 Don 158 La Prosciutteria 159 highlights 176-7, 178-80, Andreotti 197 Doozo 145 La Taverna degli Amici 87 Antica Enoteca 107 Doppiozeroo 197 La Veranda 131 182 Antico Forno Urbani 86 L’Archeologia Ristorante shopping 186 Antico Ristorante E sights 181-4 196 transport 177 Pagnanelli (Castel Eataly 197 L’Asino d’Oro 145 Villa Celimontana 171 Gandolfo) 204 Emma Pizzeria 86 Le Levain 159 Villa dei Quintili 190 Antonello Colonna Open 146 Enoteca al Parlamento Le Tamerici 110 Villa del Priorato di Malta Ar Galletto 86 Lilli 84 171-2 Armando al Pantheon 83 Achilli 88 Litro 160 Villa d’Este (Tivoli) 202 Aroma 173 Enoteca La Torre 132 Locanda del Gelato 158 Villa di Massenzio 189 Aromaticus 143 Villa Doria Pamphilj 157-8 F M Villa Farnesina 155 B Villa Medici 103 Fa-Bìo 131 Matricianella 88 Babette 106 Fatamorgana (Prati) 131 Meid in Napols 146 Sights 000 Baccano 110 Fatamorgana Corso 106 Mercato Centrale 145 Baguetteria del Fico 83 Fiaschetteria Beltramme Mercato di Campo de’ Map Pages 000 Bar Pompi 184 Photo Pages 000 Beppe e i suoi Formaggi 87 107 Fiori 85-6 Bistro del Quirino 109 Fior di Luna 160 Mercato di Piazza San Boccione 86 Flavio al Velavevodetto 173 Buca di Ripetta 106 Fol 106 Cosimato 160 Forno Cerulli 110-11 Metamorfosi 185 Forno di Campo de’ Fiori 85

287 Mille800 Stazione del Ristorante Roof Garden Barnum Cafe 90 K INDEX DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Gusto (Cerveteri) 205 Circus 67 Bar San Calisto 161 Be.re 133 Keyhole 161 Molto 185 Roma Sparita 158 Bibenda Wine Concept 174 Mondo Arancina 131 Roscioli Caffè 13 Bir & Fud 162 L Mordi e Vai 173 Rumi Bottega Organica 160 Birra Più 149 Mo’s Gelaterie 131 Bottega Vera (Orvieto) 207 La Bottega del Caffè 147 Mozzico 146 S BrewDog Roma 69 La Casa del Caffè Tazza N Said 147 C d’Oro 88 Salumeria Roscioli 86 La Casetta a Monti 147 Neve di Latte 185 San Teo 67 Caffè Ciampini 112 L’Alibi 175 Nino 107 Sbanco 13, 172 Caffè Lungara 1940 162 L’Angolo Divino 90 Seacook 197 Caffè Ripetta 111 Lanificio 159 186 O Serenella 184 Caffè Sant’Eustachio 88 Lemoncocco 186 Sora Lella 87 Canova 111 Libreria Caffè Bohemien Officina Naturale 110 Sora Mirella Caffè 158 Canova Tadolini 112 Old Bridge 131 Supplizio 85 Cargo 149 147-8 Osteria del Sostegno 83 Casa Manfredi 174 Linari 174 Osteria dell’Angelo 132 T Cavour 313 69 L’Oasi della Birra 174 Osteria dell’Ingegno 88 Chioschetto di Ponte Locanda Atlantide 150 Osteria Flaminio 184 Tacos & Beer 146 Locarno Bar 111 Osteria San Rocco Taverna Volpetti 174 Milvio 186 Temakinho 144 Circolo Illuminati 197-8 M Piacente (Frascati) 204 Terre e Domus 67 Circus 88 Tiramisù Zum 85 Coming Out 175 Ma Che Siete Venuti a P Tram Tram 147 Co.So 149 Fà 162 Trapizzino 173 Palatium 109 Trattoria da Danilo 146 E Makasar Bistrot 133 Palazzo del Freddo di Trattoria del Falcone Meccanismo 162 Escosazio 90 Momart 185 Giovanni Fassi 146 (Tivoli) 202 Etablì 88 My Bar 175 Panattoni 158 Trattoria Monti 146 Panella 145 Trattoria Otello alla F N Paris in Trastevere 160 Pasta Chef 144 Concordia 109 Freni e Frizioni 161 Necci dal 1924 149 Pasticceria De Bellis 85 Trieste Pizza 144 Neo Club 198 Pasticceria Gruè 185 Pasticceria Regoli 145 V G O Pastificio 107 Pastificio San Lorenzo 147 Velavevodetto Ai Quiriti 132 Gatsby Café 148 Open Baladin 90 Pianostrada 86 Venchi (Centro Storico) 84 Gazometro 38 198 Piccolo Arancio 109-10 Venchi (Piazza di Spagna) Gente di San Lorenzo 150 P Piperno 87 Gin Corner 90 Pizza Ostiense 197 107 Goa 198 Passaguai 133 Pizza Zazà 82 Verde Pistacchio 197 Gran Caffè La Pepy’s Bar 112 Pizzarium 132 Vineria Il Chianti 109 Pimm’s Good 161 Pizzeria da Remo 173 Vitaminas 24 148 Caffettiera 91 Pizzeria Formula Uno 146 Vivi Bistrot 84 Gregory’s Jazz Club 112 R Pommidoro 147 ‘Gusto 111 Pompi 107 Z Rec 23 174 Porto Fluviale 197 H Rivendita Libri, Cioccolata Primo 148 Zia Rosetta 143 Pro Loco Pinciano 185 Hýbris 161 e Vino 161 6 DRINKING & Roscioli Caffè 90 Q NIGHTLIFE I S Qui Nun Se More Mai 197 0,75 69 Ice Club 147 Il Baretto 162 Salotto 42 90 R A Il Goccetto 90 Sciascia Caffè 133 Il Palazzetto 111-12 Spirito 148 Renato e Luisa 86 Al Vino al Vino 148 Il Pentagrappolo 174 Stravinskij Bar 111 Retrobottega 84 Anticafé Roma 13, 174 Il Sorì 149 Streat San Lorenzo 150 Ristorante L’Arcangelo 132 Antico Caffè Greco 111 Il Tiaso 149 Ristorante Monumento Appia Antica Caffè 198 T (Ostia Antica) 201 B J Terra Satis 161 Terrazza Caffarelli 69 Babington’s Tea Rooms 112 Jerry Thomas Project 90 Trimani 149 Bar Celestino 150

288 INDEX ENTERTAINMENT B N Casa di Accoglienza Paolo V 213 V Balenciaga 114 namasTèy 91 Bartolucci 93 Nardecchia 92 Casa Fabbrini 212 Vicious Club 149-50 Benheart 162 Nuovo Mercato di Casa Montani 216 Vini e Olii 149 Bialetti 186 Colors Hotel 213 Vinile 198 Biscottificio Innocenti 163 Testaccio 175 Fabio Massimo Design Borsalino 113 Nuovo Mercato Y Hotel 214 C Esquilino 151 Fendi Private Suites 213 Yeah! Pigneto 149 First 213 Yellow Bar 148 Casali 92 O Generator Hostel 214 Confetteria Moriondo & Gigli d’Oro Suit 212 Z Officina Profumo Giuturna Boutique Hotel Gariglio 93 Farmaceutica di Santa Zest Bar 149 c.u.c.i.n.a. 115 Maria Novella 92 212 Zuma Bar 111 Gregoriana 213 F P Hotel Abitart 216 3 ENTERTAINMENT Hotel Campo de’ Fiori 211 Fabriano 113 Patrizia Corvaglia 92 Hotel Columbia 215 Alexanderplatz 133 Fausto Santini 115 Patrizia Pepe 115 Hotel de Russie 213 Auditorium Parco della Federico Buccellati 114 Pelletteria Nives 115 Hotel Donna Camilla Feltrinelli International 151 Perlei 151 Musica 186 Fendi 114 Podere Vecciano 151 Savelli 215-16 Big Mama 162 Flumen Profumi 113 Porta Portese Market 163 Hotel Duca d’Alba 214 Blackmarket 150 Hotel Forte 212 Caffè Letterario 198 G R Hotel Hassler 213 Charity Café 150 Hotel Lancelot 216 Cinecittà 198 Galleria Alberto Sordi 115 Rachele 93 Hotel Laurentia 214 ConteStaccio 175 Gente 114 Rechicle 133 Hotel Locarno 212 Fonclea 133 Re(f)use 112 Hotel Mimosa 211 Foro Italico 186 I Roma Liuteria di Mathias Hotel Modigliani 212 Isola del Cinema 91 Hotel Navona 212 Lettere Caffè 162 I Colori di Dentro 93 Menanteau 151 Hotel Pensione Barrett 211 Nuovo Cinema Palazzo Ibiz – Artigianato in Roma-Store 163 Hotel Santa Maria 216 Hotel Sant’Anselmo 216 150 Cuoio 92 S Il Palazzetto 213 Stadio Olimpico 186 I Vippini 113 Inn at the Roman Forum Teatro Ambra Jovinelli 151 Il Sellaio 133 Salumeria Roscioli 92 Teatro Argentina 91 SBU 92 211 Teatro dell’Opera di Roma J Sermoneta 115 La Controra 212 Soul Food 175 Le Stanze di Orazio 213-14 150 Jerry Thomas Emporium Stilo Fetti 91 Misia Resort (Orvieto) 207 Teatro Olimpico 186 92-3 Nerva Boutique Hotel 211 Teatro Palladium 198 T Palm Gallery Hotel 216 Teatro Vascello 162 L Quod Libet 214 Terme di Caracalla 175 Tina Sondergaard 151 Relais Le Clarisse 215 Wishlist 150 La Bottega del Tod’s 114 Relais Palazzo Taverna 211 Cioccolato 151 Transmission 151 Residenza Arco de’ 7 SHOPPING La Bottega del Marmoraro V Tolomei 215 A 113 Residenza Cellini 214-15 Vigano’ Fratelli 115 Residenza Maritti 211 Abito 151 LAR 113 Volpetti 175 Residenze Gregoriane Alberta Gloves 91 Laura Biagiotti 115 Aldo Fefè 92 Le Artigiane 91 4 SLEEPING (Tivoli) 202 Almost Corner Bookshop Le Tartarughe 93 Villa della Fonte 215 Les Vignerons 163 66 Imperial Inn 215 Villa Laetitia 214 163 Libreria l’Argonauta 186 Albergo Cesàri 211 Villa Spalletti Trivelli 215 Antica Caciara Luna & L’Altra 92 Althea Inn 216 Yellow Hostel 214 Arco del Lauro 215 Trasteverina 163 M Argentina Residenza 211 Artisanal Cornucopia 113 B&B Ripa Medici Atelier Patrizia Pieroni 93 Manila Grace 114 Marta Ray 13, 91 (Orvieto) 207 Sights 000 Materie 93 B&B Suites Trastevere 215 Map Pages 000 Mercato Monti Urban BDB Luxury Rooms 212-13 Photo Pages 000 Beehive 214 Market 151 Buonanotte Garibaldi 216 Mondello Ottica 93

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 289 Rome Maps Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Walking Tour Shinto Beach Walking Tour detour Sikh Gate Path/Walking Trail Taoist Hut/Shelter Winery/Vineyard Lighthouse Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Lookout Other Sight Mountain/Volcano International Oasis State/Province Activities, Park Disputed Courses & Tours Pass Regional/Suburb Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (National) Skiing Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Snorkelling City/Large Town Intermittent River Surfing Town/Village Canal Swimming/Pool Walking Transport Water Windsurfing Other Activity Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Border crossing Sleeping Bus Reef Cable car/Funicular Sleeping Cycling Areas Camping Ferry Hut/Shelter Metro station Airport/Runway Monorail Eating Parking Beach/Desert Petrol station Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Cemetery (Christian) Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Cemetery (Other) Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Glacier Cafe Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Mudflat Entertainment Other Transport Park/Forest Entertainment Sight (Building) Shopping Sportsground Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

290 Tiber River PARIOLI FLAMINIO TRIESTE PINCIANO NOMENTANO VILLA BORGHESE TRIONFALE \"Ð4 SALARIO PRATI CAMPO SALLUSTIANO VATICAN CITY BORGO MARZIO LUDOVISI Ð\"10 (CITTÀ DEL VATICANO) Ð\"2 CASTRO TIBURTINO PRETORIO COLONNA SAN LORENZO \"Ð5 PONTE SANT' TREVI EUSTACHIO PIGNETO PARIONE PIGNA MONTI \"Ð8 REGOLA ESQUILINO TUSCOLANO Ð\"3 SANT' \"Ð9 ANGELO \"Ð11 GIANICOLO CAMPITELLI TRASTEVERE Ð\"1 SAN GIOVANNI RIPA Ð\"7 AVENTINO CELIO MONTEVERDE TESTACCIO \"Ð6 APPIO- LATINO Tiber Ri GARBATELLA GIANCOLENSE ver OSTIENSE PORTUENSE Marrana della Caffarella SAN PAOLO 2 km 1 mile e# 0 0 MAP INDEX 5 Vatican City, Borgo & 8 San Lorenzo (p311) Prati (p304) 9 Monti & Esquilino (p312) 1 Ancient Rome (p292) 6 San Giovanni & Testaccio 10 Villa Borghese & 2 Centro Storico North (p306) Northern Rome (p316) (p296) 7 Trastevere & Gianicolo 11 Southern Rome (p318) 3 Centro Storico South (p308) (p298) 4 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale (p300)

ANCIENT ROME Map on p292 æ Top Sights p52 Chiesa di San Lorenzo in 42 Museo Nazionale del Palazzo 66 Terme di Settimio Severo ..............E8 Venezia........................................... B1 67 Torre delle Milizie ............................D2 1 Capitoline Museums....................... B3 Miranda ................................(see 59) 68 Via Sacra...........................................D4 43 Museo Palatino ................................D7 69 Vittoriano..........................................B2 2 Colosseum....................................... G6 22 Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua...... D5 44 Orti Farnesiani................................. D6 23 Chiesa di Santa Maria in 45 Palazzo dei Conservatori............... B4 3 Imperial Forums.............................. D2 46 Palazzo Nuovo .................................B3 Aracoeli ......................................... B3 47 Palazzo Senatorio........................... C4 4 Palatino .............................................E7 48 Palazzo Venezia............................... B1 24 Circo Massimo ................................ C8 49 Piazza del Campidoglio...................B3 5 Roman Forum ................................. D5 25 Colonna di Foca .............................. C4 50 Piazza del Foro................................ C4 ú Eating p67 26 Colonna Traiana.............................. C2 51 Ponte Rotto ......................................A6 27 Complesso del Vittoriano .............. C3 52 Portico degli Dei Consenti............. C4 70 Alle Carette....................................... E3 28 Cordonata........................................ B3 53 Roma dal Cielo .................................B3 æ Sights p64 29 Criptoportico Neroniano ............... D6 54 Roman Insula ...................................B3 71 Ristorante Roof Garden Circus .....A6 30 Curia ................................................. D4 55 Rostri................................................ C4 6 Arcate Severiane .............................E8 31 Domus Augustana.......................... D7 56 Stadio ................................................D7 72 San Teo.............................................B7 32 Domus Flavia................................... D6 57 Tabularium ...................................... C4 7 Arco di Costantino...........................F6 33 Domus Severiana ............................E8 58 Tempio della Concordia................. C4 73 Terre e Domus ................................. C1 34 Foro di Augusto............................... D2 59 Tempio di Antonino e Faustina..... D4 8 Arco di Settimio Severo................. C4 35 Foro di Cesare................................. C3 60 Tempio di Castore e Polluce ......... D4 36 Foro di Nerva................................... D3 61 Tempio di Giulio Cesare................. D4 9 Arco di Tito .......................................E5 37 Foro di Traiano................................ C2 62 Tempio di Romolo .......................... D4 û Drinking & Nightlife p69 38 Foro di Vespasiano ......................... D3 63 Tempio di Saturno.......................... C4 10 Basilica dei SS Cosma e 39 Lapis Niger....................................... C4 64 Tempio di Vespasiano.................... C4 74 0,75 ...................................................C7 40 Mercati di Traiano Museo dei 65 Tempio di Vesta...............................D5 Damiano.........................................E4 75 BrewDog Roma................................G5 Fori Imperiali ................................ D2 11 Basilica di Massenzio ......................E4 76 Cavour 313 ....................................... E3 41 Museo Centrale del 12 Basilica di San Marco ..................... B2 Risorgimento................................ B3 77 Ice Club .............................................E3 13 Basilica Fulvia Aemilia.................... D4 78 Terrazza Caffarelli...........................B4 14 Basilica Giulia .................................. C4 15 Basilica Ulpia ................................... C2 ÿ Sleeping p211 16 Bocca della Verità............................A7 79 Inn at the Roman Forum.................E3 17 Capanne Romulee .......................... C6 80 Nerva Boutique Hotel .....................E3 18 Carcere Mamertino ........................ C4 81 Residenza Maritti ............................E3 19 Casa delle Vestali............................ D5 20 Casa di Augusto.............................. C6 21 Casa di Livia..................................... D6 ANCIENT ROME 291

ancient rome 292 e hg0000000000000000000000004K321 000000000000eyÜ#000000000000oiaCdnSMdehPe'pAalpiei2erGar20000000000m9sgzce69aaVzoasS0000000000Anaep1iùaalaVi0000000000ndia00000000000000000000000000000MeVldiTaa00000000000000000000000000000PoirTrlcr0000000000000000000eDMiboebua'0000000000000000000Sinrscpaece0000000000000000000dcliilcto0000000000000000000ho¤#d1i42'PA2SCÜ#4iPrCaaaâ#aM8ifznaafcazâ#zuMporazCeesiaaltlaleiVir00000000000000o000000ä00#00000PdmcuV#æilPiiBao000000000000000000000000000000000000000i000000m0000000aep5niü7#ö#Cazni2400000000000000000000000000000800d00000000e000000000000s0zzeo8oazzâ#5n00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000(00000000gaiVCsd3aâ#loCi00000000000000000000000i00000000a0000000000e000000001000aolBÜ#aaplâ#zm0000000000000000a000000000400000000000000000C000000i4#æi#átot25oe9pnt00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000043lsâ#ieiis6d1an000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000t49oreR4ieg70000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000006oHlâ#imo0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000i000002lla57)00000000000000000000000000000000000000E0â#5n2â#n7RSV000000000000000000000000000000000000000Fä#toaiarmoVna000000000000000000000000000000000000000dViraaVneBä#u5ni7ä#l00000000000000000000ú#0000000000000000d000icaoemcF83eCero#á6lId00000000000l00n00000000raVoi4a61Sä#3ä#000000100200000r00000000N53æ#d786ooä#0000000000000#á00000000ä#3ä5#vVä#55e000000000000000000000iIa81Vä#mmF#á4i2adTæ#ob5udpelirlrileaueä#5lnarmo0â#iCa3Vus66rl9ä#ii3aSa08ä#0adä#NleÜ#a3irVFaoioaVvä#6V4â#ä#reiedi1a0ä#SIcmemScelp1lDahbaep33ciera0mrä#reaS0Miaaä#3ä#a3plLai4l5ä#86#áaagL97ä#rrä#na000g000000a0aroVngRE00000000000000003ä#dä#eoanoA6ec0000000000000000ptmnrÜc#lo6Llÿ#ag000000000000a0000hal2aneiinVra1lc00000000000000008ÿ#igi0cFea0ou0000000000000000oN8mLra0000000000000u0001ÿ#VaRzmriiioa0000000000000000g1c7n1ocB9a0000000000iä#alCec0000000000Ec#ï7ú#in0VaTIFIVi#ûmn7aooi7faruopdirrePemirslailtaaa7#ûnelt6liiMFiCsoroapnVanloiedagsriopsneananoneVa#iadeBVia00iMacFcoCinnaatVvi00000000oiCaMdua00000000ePdarrieiida00000000nMlolzeeo00000000nzFnanra000000000000MtaniPc000000000000OieaVsNz0000VcziSTaioaaiPVnaICdSiidnaiaVaiemPzniPVLgnazPaiioleacaeioOrl000000000ooZtaSddVlrG0rvplanieeioiienp.000000000apel1irlS3VgnaiiMmmoe0001000000000000000aeiaa2rrtoiaatli000000000000000000dpnee2est0000000000000000000Sel#ûl0ea000000000lme0000000004321ij hg VCiaodrseol Via XXIV Via Mazzarino Via Milano Maggio Via degli Astalli Via del Boschetto V Via IV Via dei Serpenti ant'Eufemia Via dei Forna r i Via San VenazioVia Marga na Via Tor de' Conti Via didSeai nGto'Atigata a Via Alessandrina GViaarodtealno ViaCdliinvi iSCoaaAnrrcPgeiereentrtoario Via Eudossiana MVoinatanaraVia del Teatro di Via degVlViiaAiaVnditnetiolbFraianlgdouidtaaleFeltre Via dellaVilla Via dell'Agnello VTiaarpdieoMonte Via d Clivius Capitolinus Via dCiaMproinntoe

44 Via dCiaMproinntoe RVoiamdaenloForo ä# ä# ä# PRaolmatainnPFooaFErlVoaunirtam0000000u00000000000000000000000t0000i0000000000ndrmaeo00000000000000000000&000000000000000000000000inA&Fc00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000oreer00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000iaá#I000000000000000000000000000P0000000000000000m0Ciao70000000000000000000000000000p0000000000000000zleVo000000000000000000000z00000000000000000000000000000000risaaisa00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000deClieo0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000e0lGli00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000oLA¡#a00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000Vgrngi00000000000000000000000000000C000000000000000000000000beooes00000000000000000000000C000000000000000000000000000000lnioVons00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000isalaoe00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000Nä#osTO000000000000000000000000000s00000000000000000eSSVpVer2eiap00m00000000000000000000000000000000a0000000p000ieua3lvieMomm0000000000000000000000000000000000000d00000000id6eoa00700000i000000000000000000000000000000l0000000pnlT5eti00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000et#ûo00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000006500000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 ä# Roman gh Via Consolazione Via dei Foraggi 5 ä# Forum ä# See map V i cus Tuscus 65ä# Via00000000000S00000000000ac#á00000000000ra 00000000000900000000000ä# p298 Vic Jungario Ü#22 ä# 19 00000000000000000000005 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 44 Via di San Via BucimVaizazadei Fienili æ# Giovanni Decollato Via di San Teodoro 21 CAMPITELLI ä# Via Petroselli Lgt dei Pierleoni ä# 29 51 PoVniatedRelotto Pd#úiaezl7lza1aVBeor000000000ictcà000000000a 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000VViea000000000lad000000000berl000000000o 000000000 6 ä#hgPonte Palatino 17 ä# ä# 32 Tiber River 000000000007#úS200000000000anP00000000000ti'aA00000000000znz00000000000aas00000000000tdaisia 20 4 ä# Palatino ViaLSgatntAavMearnitaiinnoCosmedin ä# (Palatine Hill) Via d Ara Mass di Ercole â#43 Via di San Gregorio Viale del Parco del Celio #á 16 Parco del 7 Via della Greca Celio 7 #û 74 31 ä# Palatino ä# Via dei Cerchi Entrance 56 ä# ViCa ldiveloCdirceoi 33 ä# 66 CELIO ä# RIPA ij8 M assimo ä# 6 Clivo di Scauro 00000000S00000000SPei00000000GaPzi00000000aozova00000000alodnini 8 Publici F Parco #æ See map G Savello p306 A B 000000000000000000000C0000000000000000000000000000 24 DE ancient rome 293

294 CENTRO STORICO NORTH CENTRO STORICO NORTH Map on p296 æ Top Sights p72 32 Obelisk .........................................................G3 1 Chiesa del Gesù ......................................... G6 33 Palazzo Chigi...............................................H3 2 Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi ...............E4 34 Palazzo della Cancelleria...........................D6 3 Galleria Doria Pamphilj...............................H5 35 Palazzo di Montecitorio.............................G3 4 Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo 36 Palazzo Farnese ......................................... D7 Altemps.....................................................E3 37 Palazzo Pamphilj ........................................ D5 5 Pantheon......................................................F4 38 Pasquino...................................................... D5 6 Piazza Navona.............................................E4 39 Piazza Colonna ...........................................H3 40 Piazza di Pietra ...........................................G4 æ Sights p75 41 Piazza di Sant'Ignazio Loyola ...................H4 7 Arco degli Acetari .......................................D6 42 Piè di Marmo ............................................... G5 8 Arco Farnese ...............................................C7 43 Stadio di Domiziano................................... D3 9 Area Sacra ...................................................F6 44 Tempio di Adriano......................................G4 10 Basilica di San Giovanni Battista dei 45 Torre dell'Orologio .....................................C4 Fiorentini...................................................A4 46 Via dei Coronari .......................................... C3 11 Basilica di San Lorenzo in Damaso ..........D6 47 Via del Governo Vecchio ........................... D5 12 Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra 48 Via Giulia......................................................B6 Minerva .....................................................G5 13 Basilica di Sant'Agostino...........................E3 ú Eating p82 14 Campo de' Fiori...........................................D6 49 Alfredo e Ada .............................................. B4 15 Cat Sanctuary ............................................. F7 50 Ar Galletto ...................................................D6 16 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pace & 51 Armando al Pantheon................................ F4 Chiostro del Bramante............................D4 52 Baguetteria del Fico...................................D4 17 Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Agone...............D4 Caffetteria Chiostro del 18 Chiesa di Sant'Andrea della Valle.............E6 Bramante.........................................(see 16) 19 Chiesa di Sant'Eligio degli Orefici.............B6 53 Casa Bleve................................................... E5 20 Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola.............. H4 54 Casa Coppelle..............................................F3 21 Chiesa di Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza............... E5 55 Ciao Checca .................................................F2 22 Chiesa Nuova ..............................................C5 56 Da Francesco ..............................................C4 23 Colonna di Marco Aurelio ......................... H3 57 Dal Cavalier Gino ........................................G2 24 Elefantino.....................................................G5 58 Ditirambo.....................................................D6 25 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi.........................E4 59 Emma Pizzeria.............................................E7 26 Fontana del Moro........................................ E5 60 Enoteca al Parlamento Achilli....................F2 27 Fontana del Nettuno...................................E4 61 Forno di Campo de' Fiori...........................D6 28 Largo di Torre Argentina ...........................F6 62 Forno Roscioli ..............................................E7 29 Museo Barracco di Scultura Antica .........D6 63 Gelateria del Teatro ................................... C3 30 Museo di Roma ...........................................D5 64 Ginger............................................................F5 31 Museo Nazionale Romano: Crypta 65 Giolitti............................................................F3 Balbi...........................................................G7 66 Grappolo D'Oro...........................................D6

295 67 Green T.........................................................G5 100 Bartolucci ....................................................G4 CENTRO STORICO NORTH 68 La Campana ................................................E2 101 Casali............................................................ B3 69 La Ciambella................................................ F6 102 Confetteria Moriondo & Gariglio.............. G5 70 La Focaccia..................................................D4 71 Lilli.................................................................D3 Enoteca al Parlamento Achilli......... (see 60) 72 Matricianella................................................ G1 73 Mercato di Campo de' Fiori .......................D6 103 Flumen Profumi...........................................G1 74 Osteria del Sostegno.................................. F4 104 I Colori di Dentro......................................... B5 75 Osteria dell'Ingegno .................................. G4 105 I Vippini .........................................................G1 76 Pasticceria De Bellis...................................E6 106 Ibiz – Artigianato in Cuoio..........................E7 77 Pizza Zazà.................................................... F5 107 Jerry Thomas Emporium .......................... B5 78 Renato e Luisa............................................. F6 108 LAR ................................................................G1 79 Retrobottega ............................................... F2 109 Le Artigiane ..................................................F5 80 Supplizio ......................................................B5 110 Le Tartarughe ............................................. G5 81 Tiramisù Zum ..............................................D6 111 Luna & L'Altra ............................................. D5 82 Venchi...........................................................F4 112 Marta Ray .................................................... B3 83 Vivi Bistrot ...................................................D5 113 Materie.........................................................G5 114 Mondello Ottica .......................................... C5 û Drinking & Nightlife p88 115 namasTèy.....................................................F5 116 Nardecchia..................................................C6 84 Barnum Cafe ...............................................C5 117 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica 85 Caffè Sant'Eustachio.................................. F5 di Santa Maria Novella............................ E4 86 Circus ...........................................................C4 118 Patrizia Corvaglia ....................................... B4 119 Rachele ........................................................D6 87 Escosazio.....................................................B5 120 Re(f)use ........................................................G1 121 SBU .............................................................. D5 88 Etablì.............................................................C4 122 Stilo Fetti .....................................................G4 89 Gran Caffè La Caffettiera.......................... H4 90 Il Goccetto....................................................B5 91 Jerry Thomas Project.................................B5 Ø Sports & Activities p266 92 La Casa del Caffè Tazza d'Oro................. G4 123 Rome Boat Experience.............................. B2 93 L'Angolo Divino ...........................................D7 94 Salotto 42 ................................................... G4 ÿ Sleeping p211 95 The Gin Corner............................................ F2 124 Albergo Cesàri ............................................H4 125 Argentina Residenza.................................. F6 ý Entertainment p91 126 Gigli D'Oro Suite ......................................... E3 96 Teatro Argentina......................................... F6 127 Hotel Campo de' Fiori ................................D6 128 Hotel Mimosa...............................................F5 þ Shopping p91 129 Hotel Navona .............................................. E5 97 Alberta Gloves............................................ G6 Hotel Pensione Barrett...................(see 125) 98 Aldo Fefè ...................................................... F3 130 Relais Palazzo Taverna..............................C3 99 Atelier Patrizia Pieroni ...............................C5

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