Lonely Planet Rome

CENTRO STORICO SOUTH æ Sights p75 ú Eating p82 20 Sora Lella.................................................................... E3 1 Basilica di San Nicola in Carcere .............................F3 10 Antico Forno Urbani ..................................................E1 2 Chiesa di San Bartolomeo....................................... E4 11 Beppe e i suoi Formaggi........................................... D1 û Drinking & Nightlife p88 3 Fontana del Mascherone ..........................................A1 12 Boccione .....................................................................E1 21 Open Baladin ............................................................. D1 4 Fontana delle Tartarughe ......................................... E1 13 Cremeria Romana..................................................... E2 22 Roscioli Caffè............................................................. D1 5 Jewish Ghetto............................................................ E2 14 I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza ........................................ C1 6 Museo Ebraico di Roma........................................... E2 15 La Taverna degli Amici ..............................................F1 ý Entertainment p91 7 Palazzo Spada............................................................B1 16 Nonna Betta............................................................... E2 23 Isola del Cinema ........................................................ E3 8 Portico d'Ottavia........................................................F2 17 Pianostrada................................................................B2 9 Teatro di Marcello......................................................F2 18 Piperno .......................................................................D2 þ Shopping p91 19 Salumeria Roscioli .................................................... D1 Salumeria Roscioli ...........................................(see 19) centro storico sOUTH 299

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tridente , TREVI & THE QUIRINALE 302 TRIDENTE, TREVI & THE QUIRINALE Map on p300 æ Top Sights p99 19 Fontana della Barcaccia...........................................C4 39 Babette.......................................................................B2 40 Baccano......................................................................C6 1 Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo ..........................A1 20 Fontana delle Api ...................................................... F5 41 Bistro del Quirino ......................................................D7 42 Buca di Ripetta ..........................................................A3 2 Galleria Colonna........................................................D8 21 Gagosian Gallery ....................................................... E5 43 Buccone......................................................................A2 44 Colline Emiliane ......................................................... E5 3 Palazzo Barberini.......................................................F5 22 Galleria Sciarra..........................................................C7 45 Crispi...........................................................................E4 46 Dal Bolognese............................................................ A1 4 Palazzo del Quirinale.................................................E7 23 Keats-Shelley House ................................................D4 47 Fatamorgana Corso..................................................B2 48 Fiaschetteria Beltramme .........................................B4 5 Piazza del Popolo.......................................................A1 24 Le Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini ................D8 49 Fol................................................................................A2 50 Forno Cerulli .............................................................. F4 6 Piazza di Spagna & the Spanish Steps ..................D4 25 Mausoleo di Augusto................................................A4 51 Gelateria Dei Gracchi................................................A2 52 Ginger .........................................................................B4 7 Trevi Fountain ...........................................................D6 26 Museo dell'Ara Pacis ................................................A4 53 Hostaria Romana ......................................................E6 54 Il Margutta..................................................................B2 27 Museo delle Cere ......................................................D8 Imàgo .............................................................. (see 107) æ Sights p101 Obelisk................................................................ (see 5) 55 Le Tamerici ................................................................D6 8 Basilica dei Santi Apostoli .......................................D8 28 Piazza Barberini ........................................................ F5 56 Nino.............................................................................C4 57 Officina Naturale .......................................................G4 9 Basilica di Santa Maria in Montesanto ...................B1 29 Piazza del Quirinale .................................................. E7 58 Osteria Margutta.......................................................C2 59 Palatium .....................................................................C5 10 Casa di Goethe.......................................................... B2 30 Pincio Hill Gardens.....................................................B1 60 Pastificio.....................................................................C3 11 Chiesa della Trinità dei Monti.................................. D3 31 Porta del Popolo.........................................................A1 12 Chiesa di San Carlino alle Quattro 32 Scuderie al Quirinale ................................................ E7 Fontane ...................................................................G6 33 Via dei Condotti.........................................................C4 13 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli ......................... A2 34 Via Margutta ..............................................................C2 14 Chiesa di Sant'Andrea al Quirinale......................... F6 35 Villa Medici.................................................................D2 15 Chiesa di Santissimi Vincenzo e Anastasio ................................................................D6 ú Eating p105 16 Città dell'Acqua.........................................................D6 36 Al Gran Sasso ............................................................A2 17 Convento dei Cappuccini......................................... F4 37 Al Moro .......................................................................C6 18 Fontana del Tritone ...................................................F5 38 Antica Enoteca ..........................................................C3

61 Piccolo Arancio .........................................................D6 þ Shopping p112 Ø Sports & Activities p113 62 Pompi ......................................................................... C3 63 Trattoria Otello alla Concordia................................ C3 77 Artisanal Cornucopia................................................A2 Hotel De Russie Spa ..................................... (see 105) 64 Venchi......................................................................... C3 65 Vineria Il Chianti........................................................D6 78 Balenciaga..................................................................C4 99 Kami Spa .................................................................... F5 79 Borsalino .....................................................................B1 80 c.u.c.i.n.a. ...................................................................C3 ÿ Sleeping p212 81 Fabriano .....................................................................B2 100 BDB Luxury Rooms...................................................B2 û Drinking & Nightlife p111 82 Fausto Santini............................................................C4 101 Casa Fabbrini.............................................................B3 66 Antico Caffè Greco ...................................................C4 83 Federico Buccellati ...................................................C4 102 Fendi Private Suites..................................................B4 67 Babington's Tea Rooms...........................................D4 84 Fendi ...........................................................................B4 103 Giuturna Boutique Hotel .......................................... E5 68 Caffè Ciampini........................................................... D3 85 Flumen Profumi.........................................................B4 104 Gregoriana .................................................................D4 69 Caffè Ripetta.............................................................. A3 86 Galleria Alberto Sordi ...............................................C6 105 Hotel de Russie.......................................................... B1 70 Canova ........................................................................B1 87 Gente ..........................................................................B5 106 Hotel Forte .................................................................C3 71 Canova Tadolini ........................................................ B3 88 Gente ..........................................................................C3 107 Hotel Hassler .............................................................D4 72 'Gusto ......................................................................... A3 89 La Bottega del Marmoraro ......................................C2 108 Hotel Locarno ............................................................A2 73 Il Palazzetto ............................................................... D3 90 LAR..............................................................................B4 109 Hotel Modigliani.........................................................E4 Locarno Bar................................................... (see 108) 91 Laura Biagiotti ...........................................................C4 110 Il Palazzetto ...............................................................D3 74 Pepy's Bar...................................................................F5 92 Manila Grace..............................................................C5 111 La Controra................................................................G4 75 Rosati...........................................................................A1 93 Patrizia Pepe..............................................................B4 112 The First .....................................................................A2 Stravinskij Bar................................................(see 105) 94 Pelletteria Nives ........................................................C4 Zuma Bar ....................................................... (see 102) 95 Re(f)use......................................................................B4 96 Sermoneta .................................................................C4 ý Entertainment p112 97 Tod's ...........................................................................B4 76 Gregory's Jazz Club..................................................D4 98 Vigano' Fratelli...........................................................C7 tridente , TREVI & THE QUIRINALE 303

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306 000000000000hg GiSuespS0000000VOPet3Seipei¤#Vrn0maBe0000000aos2TiPViaz#2ú8aazpm9neaizi#útBnia2900000000000uasp8otanraiVit0GcAazsiap#ún0000000000000i000cntMizPacoSa2c#ûioacvaiPTa0000000000B0000000600000uaiVao3oVeosbn¤#zVSi3aLi00000000d00000005snt111ziala4aiaiit12dtbacnndPü#0ie000M000111i7eitiiiLoaaSra#úæ#a111000000000g00zan3Mtz3tu8ra111a0000000000#úzMiP92dc#ûriTVEio3ieie111a#ýc00a0000000000000000dimeRhagziVeVz111RVlpA000000000000000000TlViiaeaiiooipaaASb11111dTlr000000000000000000anetinraeTGvoEV11111glRiPT00000000lEitaSaC'SiueeiVvl11111laV32e#úlaasTvi0000000000000e0000l#ûidlzidratv6n1alEAz1111eaaePatVn000000000aCllRcrC'li1AlCiiaai11111acaae7Ean(RCz000000000#ú2iATriCPmÿRo#ABLâ#zso1111i8IiIvoiaoeuIvdp0000000000bLaPHOVCesnlbcoeg11111idzmeAinoceatiMPbnaz00000eBrllitAosa1111iPiliaa#ætaodaai)ntinta0000000000000000olelni6aot11111ÿa#roniVa9ierto00000000000SiÜ#itia1111ne4Pa1GdV0000000000000o34inieaiSal÷#000000000000zlPaoPlPaenzsnaiot000000000r000aiiMaaomraOPPtdlm000000d£#oaTAiiaisn#¡aiaiBbeitVzidD000000zmiiozSRneezEiCaPaVcpnat00000oaNnaAicidmeslaoaezae00000TerMzialiozItdA-000000PPPNànPOaCSelieriIbaasloOa00000000R0000iClTVszntaamzVoicizEtVnPaa00000000000ziaaasauilLiiaaeeaatndl0000000000000000liLtazeadeaozVIMilMl000000000000000aePCilaGaaMeVo3i000000000lrrVlfiVü#riUc1caCeaaatioioVl000000gaBaVseinaPirGosPiaAAedaicdi0000L00oaPvemroriFFPloez2nidoeol#úô#osnaoCrorzei5ntiutmnne(mateaitzPnezniroitzoioncaioiznPiholoaaiatlaintOeiMnAUrHoaSggNseiraDCplsielFnc3)iirmmo¡#ui1000000cs8olooaaStd000000uptepire&o2000000enm92ap000000VViaiadileVadlleeldleellTe eCrammVLgiat dPeei PtrioersleeloliniV ia di San Teodoro 1 ij ij san giovanni & TESTACCIO Viale di Trastevere Lgt R ipa Via di San Gregorio del 2 Via della Luc iVniaCSosanmteadiMnaria Celio ¤# ParcVoiadleel 3 n Grande ventino Mas Clivo dei Publici 4 S 5 Via Portuense DVieaciTaenrteme Porta di Fauno Via di San Alessio VCiaeVcciahVVGiVQiieaaBsuisiaaeinrMcinhRVaiiuibaramttVioinaVoFrilaaortMiaoVaiastGVroiniaGoirBoiFregrVniaoiaVinaGkimalhiniNibneiocrtoi la ZabagliaLgt Via Me Via Aventina Viale Guido Baccelli Via di Prisca PolliVioane ViaFVliaaeusAdtnielnnliaaaPiramide Ces VialeAdrdi Peaotritnaa o BrVaima ante VPaiallAadio Moanctceio Via Ostiense ViaBOedcocaarrdiio #. ji1 1 1 1 1 42 A 1111 B C D 11111 æ Top Sights p168 6 Basilica di Santa 15 Triclinium Leoninum ....H2 25 Il Gela 1 Basilica di San Sabina.......................... B2 16 Villa Celimontana.......... E3 26 Mordi Clemente...................... F1 7 Case Romane ................ E2 17 Villa del Priorato di 27 Pizzer 2 Basilica di San 8 Chiesa di Santo Malta............................ B3 28 Tavern Giovanni in Stefano Rotondo.........F2 29 Trapiz Laterano......................H2 9 Cimitero Acattolico ú Eating p172 3 Terme di Caracalla ....... E4 per gli Stranieri........... B5 18 Aroma.............................. F1 û Drinking 10 Monte Testaccio ........... A5 19 Cafè Cafè......................... E1 30 Bibend æ Sights p170 11 Obelisk............................H2 20 Cups................................ A4 Conc 4 Basilica dei SS 12 Palazzo Laterano .......... H2 21 Da Felice......................... B4 31 Casa M Giovanni e Paolo 13 Parco Savello................. B2 22 Divin Ostilia ..................... F1 32 Comin al Celio......................... E2 14 Santuario della Scala 23 Flavio al 33 Il Pent 5 Basilica dei SS Santa & Sancta Velavevodetto ............ A5 34 L'Alibi Quattro Coronati......... F1 Sanctorum..................H2 24 Il Bocconcino .................. E1 35 Linari.

307 e# 0 500 m 0 0.25 miles 00000000000000000000000000000000000000VVPiCaCT0000000000000000000iSiaCdaaoeilce0000000000000V0000000l00000VrzlirVaaovVadzlimlu00000000000000si00i0a00000o0e070eaacbrsldC#¡Ü#lACeaedoeed0000000000000000000e00000000000nlonlleiTeoeltdleSlÜ#Pon0000000000000000000000000e00l0004CaloinaiGaraaosPimCnmrnä#000000000u000000000000000sie(ctaeieaedECienolPz000000000000000000000o000Gdei3ueVzaoiBdilamCioo000C00000000000i00000aaealvdceaolnadc0r00000e0000l000000000CeaineiolecHC1nll0000000000000000000all6ia1iilE3ml#lû93V÷#000a000000000P0000000CPl2L0)2iNo#úoVri4lI#úaolmnû##ûiOu3aazctm7AzepaannialDn3lú#ia1eoi3V8oaVi#ûm2#úai2aCuVAÜ#a8SsdipuVa4eaAeoriVBVa3dellnluldaliiaeMaiÿ#aa'roAiVCseFfdSdÜ#iraia00000000liliaieciSdVSnacm100000000iitaaaaÜ#Sinn000000000000000edQadtinnG5uoP0000000itati'VoSoteEV0000000rt4ivtta#rrVieaoaa1aiRasfnLMamuadnuntVeg4MoriViolnaglii00000'entiaAaeRaotm#þr0000LrrIooiLpobanta0000aptBoiVoeAbonoirraSindaancedPniopgeoaaV3oVhmm000n0000000S1Giiili1alanaaSa000000P0000pnGrLiaiia0000000000000GaannzBtPlGiVlEz000000000000000e000000000o00VLiaGiiaaIarpaviVasOa00000000000000a000000000000aziiLdSirtionVzanValoiIeA00000000000000000000000000voitabinAVicarnaNeil0000000a0000000e000000000a0000aNVen#ár1tniiu1Nadn000000000000000000000000M000aoliiGIoa0000000000000000000000000Ü#nanâ#il000000000000z0000000000000ail2oe10000000000000000000000000ni2iM0000000000000000000000000SP#¡A1aaÜ#Vi00000000000000000000000004panniTaPpzæ#VzuH00000000000000000000GS1oziiisaao5aiAanc00000o000000000000000nzQVPirovnzemiuia000000V00000000000000laaoiooniEziena0000000000000000n0000ztntiuaVdii00000000000000anriiaioa00000000000000000000¡#4325100000000000000000000ij Via Ariosto Via Emanuele Filiberto Via di San Gregorio Via Boiardo Via Tasso san giovanni & TESTACCIO ParcVoiadleel dCeellio Via Merulana CelimoVinatVaianaOstiliaVia Claudia Via della Navic Via Amiterno Via Magna Grecia Via Druso Via PanonniaViale PanVdioasiaMetaVipaonto Via Luni Via Licia Via Saturnia Via Britannia Via C ollazia Via di Porta San Sebastiano Via PopulVioania ViaBOedcocaarrdiio Viale delle Terme di Caracalla Via Acaia i num ....H2 E FG H na.......... E3 o di 25 Il Gelato .......................... D3 36 L'Oasi della Birra ........... B4 Ø Sports & Activities p266 ............. B3 26 Mordi e Vai ..................... A4 37 My Bar .............................E1 41 TopBike Rental & 27 Pizzeria Da Remo.......... A3 38 Rec 23............................. A3 Tours............................. F1 p172 28 Taverna Volpetti............ B4 .............. F1 29 Trapizzino ...................... A4 ý Entertainment p175 ÿ Sleeping p216 .............. E1 ............. A4 û Drinking & Nightlife p174 39 ConteStaccio................. B5 42 Althea Inn ....................... B5 ............. B4 30 Bibenda Wine .............. F1 Concept........................ E1 Terme di 43 Hotel Lancelot ................ F1 31 Casa Manfredi ............... C3 ............ A5 32 Coming Out..................... E1 Caracalla ..............(see 3) 44 Hotel Sant'Anselmo...... B3 .............. E1 33 Il Pentagrappolo............. F1 34 L'Alibi .............................. A5 þ Shopping p175 35 Linari............................... A4 Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio....... (see 26) 40 Soul Food .......................G2 Volpetti ................. (see 28)

308 Key on p310 ABCD Lgt della Farnesina Via della Lungara1Passeggiata del Gianicolo Francesco di Sales VPiecnditeelnlazaPiazzale 34 ü# trastevere & GIANICOLO Anita Via San á#13 Viale delle Mura AurelieVia delle Nuova FornaciGaribaldi VPieanditeelnlaza Villa Farnesina w 4 á# Via dei Riari â# 3 â# 7 2 0000000000000000000000000000800000000000000á#0000000000000000(000000000000GGJPGaia0i0000000000000uian#æarHsziin00000000000000becizil9upacal00000000000000)llopldueleoim 10 Largo Via Corsini 3 #æ Via Santa Orto Cristina di Dorotea û# Botanico Svezia 54 ÿ# Passeggiata del Gianicolo Via Garibaldi Via della Scala16Sdce0000000alllaa0000000#ú Viale delle Mura Aure Via del Mattonato#ú Vic ÿ# 55 lie ia della Pagl GaribaV6lida#æidi Porta San Pancrazio Via della Frusta 12 V 4 Piazzale Largo di Porta Via Ü# San Pancrazio Aurelio Piazza Via di San Pancrazio San Pietro in Viale delle Mura Gia Gianicolensi Via G Medici Via Luciano M Via del Vascello Montorio Villa #û 37 Via Mameli Via Sacchi Doria Pamphilj #ú 5 Via G Bruzzesi Aprile Trenta Sc di Tamburino Via P Roselli Via #þ Via F Daverio Fabrizi 0000000PC0000000iau0000000zczc0000000ahVFiia Fratelli Bonnet Via Giacinto Carini Seni Nicola Viale Glorioso Via 6 MONTEVERDE Via il Viale #ú 000000000000000 Calandrelli Via Dandolo 24 Via F Casini Via dei Quattro Venti Via O Regnoli 7 Villa Sciarra Via F S Sprovieri Via G Rossetti B & B Suites D #ý 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 Trastevere (800m); Latteria Studio (850m) 46 C D AB

309ij e ghVicSdce0000000alllaa0000000Vþ#0000000û#4iai21ú#aú#25L3S3d21uae3PnclPSdlû#taii0000000000000000aieaia'SaEnzlPnVnlzBg0000000000000000za2ú#aû#aVizoGTia4aad6agMû#ni00000i00000000000ar2iMoslMo23tPaú#iaVEv2Baial00000000000000001i9aaisvlaoaeinÜ#anztMcrn0000000000000000000000000000000dnzoaReeTaeaiPresavd0000000000000000000000000000000000000rladnliidiÿee#ranalVdezæ#uti000000000000000000000ÿ#4¤#irû#zii'atPeiseaa519zú#leþ#000000000000000s451a6VGNl4a1l9Pii0000000000c#þar30a4ü#iCaactV2dT73û#ú#z00000000000000000inaaPaeiz5Rú#laldPoilCaeS000000s000V00000000lVl2AeeoiidtSStiiisVF42Sosa8eanSFP000000000a00MeVatiaaa0ta8erdtndnimilTorVnaoaealrd3e00000000000ean#þaRnFtaireEzlCcdl0tolerlal3Raû#eLzEo'V00000000e0000000aaVAs8aú#ilVulnldGiproEe4iaiý#00000000s0000000ccniaaVROd4toeTMgd5oiiLsa00000rEedLae7acF4glRirrAsoP0000000000t5ÿ#reý#LeteyeRú#1tSRPtngV0000000000000000tvtd8aiuiteaianeaa¤#eú#n1fd#la2ú#p000000000000zr0000illd9trneaþ#ze55VhSdPaieaai00000000000000003a'ailaAÜ#laVVlen00eszi000000000d00PGAaaMZsPlzFe5lirilaAoroalTisgl000000000000000000SaaaMraazicdPucnsSozvzotocia00000000000000000000000000000000ictaVaznnaaiotaSeGniatú#iannze000000000000000000000l00000000000000000sieipeaziczden2tra2oi00000000000000000000000000000000000000ePVtooim97bieioS6a¤#00000000000000000G0000000VaCaanAipelinatnud000000000VsPteiGbciiaiBniiari000000000abaiueeozdldVil000000000VozGnleeiiPiaaaall000000000il'dradDaSeiiezrnlLllzaBal'aOauPgþ#nTn0000000rMBCSnoViiMarotLagaiaaaa0000000i5azdngcaPisozhs0rtdrtoPCan00o00000eVaiertVeid3llntaletCeiiieaiiaatae00000006zceGvaû#dczGgadcieaeei0000000liRelilLnSrddiisiiAapAae00000000o00000000000goiAÿ#SiaLPnlPPvrtaTÜ#aNGia000000e0000000000000egiiPsPadaVl5irMsrnuucIo2bTzzaigie8si00000000000000000001aiiú#unmzznae9enl'oozAaladzrlCruazlai000000000LcieiaidalNra3ú#eannaua0nen1ndanGii.te2cgiHE00000000000000000000000000'i1amSC7LPrC400000000000000000000000000eiaipOú#Pone3les2eiú#na1s00000000000000000000000000atsm9ü#5ettz8ielz00000000000000000000000000aola4apn000000000i0 m463521Via LGgitudlieaTiiTbeerbaRlidvierVia Arenulatrastevere & GIANICOLO t della Farnesina n Via della ScalaVic del Bologna CinVqiucedel Via Dandolo V ViLcucdeella VVeianGzian CVioasidimaStaon Via della Luce Via dei AnicViiaa Fienaroli Lgt RCiappMapVaireilaVliCaaaSeiacndiinlitSaaantaViaViaPedreietVtaiscellari Via di San Gallicano Via San Francesco a Ripa Viale di Trastevere Via della Luce di Sa River 00000000000000000000B0000000000dePar0000000000niFaa0000000000ezrzldtarineo #þ Tiber Aventino Via M Carcani ghPiazza5le2Piazza Ponte RIPA Porta E PortuensePortese Lgt Via Portuense F G S00000000ub0000000000000000lic0000000000000000io00000000000000000000000000000000dP0000000000000000eial0000000000000000lz'Ezamporio See map 7 p306 D H

310 TRASTEVERE & GIANICOLO Map on p308 æ Top Sights p154 30 Rumi Bottega Organica..............................F5 31 Sora Mirella Caffè.......................................H4 1 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere.................................................H5 2 Basilica di Santa Maria in û Drinking & Nightlife p161 trastevere & GIANICOLO Trastevere.................................................E4 32 Bar San Calisto ........................................... E4 3 Villa Farnesina............................................. D1 33 Bir & Fud ...................................................... E2 æ Sights p156 34 Caffè Lungara 1940.....................................D1 4 Anita Garibaldi Equestrian 35 Freni e Frizioni..............................................F3 36 Hýbris...........................................................H4 Monument ................................................ A1 37 Il Baretto...................................................... D5 5 Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi a 38 Keyhole ........................................................ F4 Ripa Grande.............................................. F6 39 Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà .......................... E2 6 Fontana dell'Acqua Paola..........................C4 40 Meccanismo................................................ E3 7 Galleria Corsini............................................D2 41 Pimm's Good............................................... E2 8 Garibaldi Monument...................................B2 42 Rivendita Libri, Cioccolata e Vino ............ E3 9 Gianicolo Hill................................................B2 43 Terra Satis...................................................H4 10 Orto Botanico..............................................D2 11 Piazza di Santa Maria in ý Entertainment p162 Trastevere.................................................E4 44 Big Mama..................................................... F6 45 Lettere Caffè............................................... F6 12 Tempietto di Bramante & Chiesa 46 Teatro Vascello........................................... A7 di San Pietro in Montorio........................D4 13 Triumphs & Laments.................................. D1 þ Shopping p162 ú Eating p158 47 Almost Corner Bookshop.......................... E3 14 Da Augusto ..................................................E3 48 Antica Caciara Trasteverina ......................F5 15 Da Enzo ........................................................H5 49 Benheart...................................................... E3 16 Da Olindo......................................................D3 50 Biscottificio Innocenti................................G4 17 Da Teo ......................................................... H4 51 Les Vignerons ............................................. E5 18 Don................................................................F6 52 Porta Portese Market ................................ G7 19 Fior di Luna .................................................. F4 53 Roma-Store................................................. F4 20 Forno La Renella ......................................... F3 21 Glass Hostaria.............................................E3 ÿ Sleeping p215 22 La Prosciutteria...........................................E3 Arco del Lauro................................... (see 58) 23 Le Levain ......................................................E5 54 Buonanotte Garibaldi................................. D2 24 Litro ..............................................................B6 55 Hotel Donna Camilla Savelli......................D3 25 Locanda del Gelato..................................... F6 56 Hotel Santa Maria....................................... E3 26 Mercato di Piazza San Cosimato.............. E5 57 Relais Le Clarisse ........................................F5 27 Panattoni..................................................... G4 58 Residenza Arco de' Tolomei .....................H4 28 Paris in Trastevere...................................... F4 59 Villa Della Fonte .......................................... E3 29 Roma Sparita ..............................................H5

311 e# 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles AB 00C D1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0000SaPniaLzozra1elne1zo1Ü#1 Stazione & Autostazione aD 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Tiburtina (1.2km) VViiaaledPeiGForebnetttai2n6i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Città Universitaria Viale Pretoriano 11111111111 Vi 1 ý#Via d æ# 31 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ei MarruciniPiazza dei 11111111111 ‚ ‚0000000000000000000000432æ00000000000â#VVei00000000000arSd53MCþ#SSe00000000000ioP0eeaagpVpnreen3tiM3000000ihaenzmm017actQoG20000006risaaú#npsiý#2uVoppaie00000000v8iliVAVnaaEaVi0000000nViutaiaadniigan¡#0000000dieSiEUoGintSVLA0000000miiaoouNcQitlbaqdViieteulUolirtieareovai000000tIdiniVdnocLCVoViioit00000a0GIBidaaitPaNamoSeeþ#Piroadd000000raidiloOnriuaoSevetScsz3oa0000002liiaaacFzi1RLVM3aMlmnaueeatia9lVmaiû#aaalitcimiginú#acmcCnPgoaedirnieieo000000eoitcirPLr3deVOeÿ#0000000000000000000oaoe2osrú#1rglgcP0000000000000000000s3tBl2oiû#ciaiLVai120000000000000000000Mui9zaVcû#z60000000000000û#aidaVAPSGaaú#1gnú#eÜ#aiiu2e10000000000000daadSiignrrV8Vû#ezp21uudaitiizii2oaa01as1nneâ#SMaard4ncgCaTú#adeleiilberr4iti0ú#iisboeimû#iulcý#limer8t1ieinV6n217ia7 Piazzal1e 1 1 1 C1 imi1tero1di 1 1 1 1 del V1eran1o 1 1 C1 am1po V1era1no 1 1 1 1111111111 T1IBU1RTI1NO 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ý#25 1 san lorenzo 1111111111 1 1 hg ý# 29 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 gh 1111111111 1 Via 1111111111 21 deiú# Circonvallazione Tiburtina14 3 1111111111 Reti 1111111111 4 ViaAdVueisagoldni ei i 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 1111111111 Via Sardi Via Via Scalo S Lorenzo CaiVrioali ddEeiqgPuloii rta SAN LORENZO Labicana Nino Bixio Via Ascoli Manzoni Piceno Via Via Via Prenestina Perugia Viale Via Emanuele FilibTVeairsatsoo Via Pesaro Via La SpVeiazCiaasilinPaIGNGrEoTssOeVtioa2û#4qVuiaû#1il7Vda2iea0l CPû#iagsú#n1ú#1il1e5intoa Macerata Via L'A CircoCnavsiallilnaazione CD Cargo............................................................ D4 1 Basilica di San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura...... C1 18 Gente di San Lorenzo ................................ B2 2 Chiesa di Santa Croce in 19 Il Sorì ............................................................ B2 Gerusalemme...........................................B4 20 Il Tiaso..........................................................D4 3 Cimitero di Campo Verano........................ C1 21 Locanda Atlantide ...................................... B3 Fondazione Pastificio Cerere ............ (see 8) 22 Streat San Lorenzo .................................... B2 4 Museo Nazionale degli Strumenti ............B4 23 Vicious Club ................................................ B3 5 Museo Storico della Liberazione ..............A4 24 Vini e Olii ......................................................D4 ú Eating p146 ý Entertainment p150 6 Mozzico ........................................................B2 25 Esc Atelier ....................................................C1 7 Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni Fassi.......A3 26 Istituzione Universitaria dei 8 Pastificio San Lorenzo ............................... B1 Concerti .....................................................B1 9 Pizzeria Formula Uno.................................B2 27 Nuovo Cinema Palazzo..............................C2 10 Pommidoro..................................................B2 28 Teatro Ambra Jovinelli............................... A2 11 Primo ............................................................D4 29 Wishlist .........................................................C1 12 Said............................................................... B1 13 Tacos & Beer ...............................................B2 þ Shopping p151 14 Tram Tram...................................................C2 30 Nuovo Mercato Esquilino.......................... A2 15 Vitaminas 24 ...............................................D4 31 Transmission .............................................. B2 û Drinking & Nightlife p149 ÿ Sleeping p214 16 Bar Celestino...............................................B2 32 Hotel Laurentia........................................... B2

monti & ESQUILINO 312 Key on p314 e# 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles VVG000000000S00iaLieQipaa00000000000UeL3urRiB0mDgdV6iÿ#00000000000arP0autiaO7iionsarrin00000000000praiebVoAaiadozle00000000000Illde#¡zaeSrVaeii00000000000nIeVlGBiniaiaaedrrtedboVVlú#eVQiiaraiuaiP1ndirid6iaiSinecSVsaaleiI(nllaiinelnQaaeBn1zf#æQTuQaao0NNsuioruirailamcuiiioztnrorVtiairilaonasiï#otalntiadFoHalBaoenVVlinaeTliitaalrBoa)blnLXú#eeeeXnroitSnVinneiiaiotdtPeaaVmlieBabrimrNseSasozoaVilonainattaaiCle000000000000000SaLPruaB000000d000000000ViVsraPueiVaigmS00000000000000000000000azcirindaodaScznAAineMz000000000000000000000e00ainaaCd(VgLlzalVoanrioliCSah000a00000000000000LaddlstiVNeiaÜ#eUmaoetVn00000000000000000000a0iniVsnSmpaiMitianooa0000000000000Ttil6aaioÿ#nDd4IS#þlr6000000000000rAaei8iaBiHaplaNle0000000000000000000000earielnOnÿ#lt000000000000000000000000000000000000000)diiPsaVa6Ü#¡#i00000000000000000000000000000000000000000m04iaGa0ý#z6i000000000000000000000000000000iXnPgzRXoaVRli000000000000000000000000000000000000eiaiSeapVzp0000000000000000000000000000000000e00Pizuý#æ#atuaabt00000000000000000000000d000rbeibedg1bml6ÿ#000000000000000l00i0000001eliV#¡icb3lciLlm000000r00000000000000000aaaeaDinVr00000000000000000000000ga5ialo5e7le6PdR#LMoei#sVrEmRMeaViiinlVoitnslau0000000tiaaisamisui0000000Cdemaeio0000000nrâ#onoNa0000000ai3V:â#aailPalze9FaiaolTrVainneizaiarlzeVlmoeBiEanueEAFrsTmiicuVeSoe›#imr¡#antdmVCdaeiiaoctSiaNlnliaiaoMIntiiTcaû#noofoin.#Bml›#a&t4eiuCb1sCPIAiennlAiiSTlaaoSqfTAoitSVmzturToeVCraoipuVzearpmipzlra›#iaomfcaaFieifortaeindGrloiitinnnitpoesnirioeiptoiovooA£#nasnInPsnSPdDCiiRasiFGaiiAtlpEsaizeoeaSTznlBnibaTtOztldiuaiRldVRieeiï#OnaIl2ú#OzlM'V7aaiaï#r›#sVGaVialaSTiaadeSoteMVatalu6#aliaznaar8ri5iVgBMoshiÿ#8cnat6ÿ#eaeterIr1ntantVaziTfnigaaoe4o#ûliMrra2mmiClGaaaizVsnzttioiiaroodnPi re#¡tor2iú#o6 4321ViaUVmia briaCasVtiealfidardoVia GoitoVia PalestroVialePdreeltoCraViosiVlltaiarfroanca Ver Via 1 Via Vit 2 Via diMolise Via Pastrengo 3 4 SalitdaaSTaonleNnictionloa Via GiRuismepitpae Via Volturno CVuiratatone Via VE Orlando hg Via Via Palestro dei Mille Via Varese Via Magenta ini Via Torino Via Firenze TUramfobreorto I Via San Vitale Via Massimo d'Azeglio w w Via Parma Via Genova ViCa odnesllualta Cesare Balbo Via Gioberti

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monti & ESQUILINO 314 MONTI & ESQUILINO Map on p312 æ Top Sights p138 9 Museo Nazionale 23 Grezzo ............................. C5 42 Yellow Bar ......................... G1 54 Roma Liuteria di Romano: Terme di 24 La Carbonara.................. B5 Zest Bar...................(see 65) Mathias 1 Basilica di San Pietro Diocleziano........................ E2 25 L'Asino d'Oro .................. B5 Menanteau ...................D5 26 Meid in Napols................G3 in Vincoli......................... B7 10 Palazzo delle 27 Mercato Centrale ........... F4 55 Tina Sondergaard...........B5 Esposizioni ........................B4 28 Panella ............................. E7 2 Basilica di Santa Maria 29 Pasta Chef.......................B6 ý Entertainment p150 11 Piazza della Repubblica ..... D2 30 Pasticceria Regoli .......... E6 Maggiore ........................ E5 12 Piazza Vittorio 31 Temakinho ...................... A6 43 Blackmarket .....................C5 32 Trattoria Da Danilo ........G8 3 Museo Nazionale Emanuele II ....................... G7 33 Trattoria Monti ............... F6 44 Charity Café......................B5 Ø Sports & Activities p266 13 Trofei di Mario ..................... G7 34 Trieste Pizza ...................C6 56 Bici & Baci .......................D4 Romano: Palazzo 14 Villa Aldobrandini ................ A5 35 Zia Rosetta......................C6 45 Orbis ..................................D5 57 Bici & Baci .......................D3 58 Vespa Style Roma..........G3 Massimo alle û Drinking & Nightlife p147 46 Teatro dell'Opera di 59 Vino Roma.......................C7 36 Al Vino al Vino................. A6 Terme ............................. E3 37 Gatsby Café .....................F7 Roma ..............................D3 38 La Bottega del Caffè ...... B6 æ Sights p140 39 La Casetta a Monti......... B7 þ Shopping p151 40 Libreria Caffè 4 Basilica di Santa ú Eating p143 Bohemien ..................... B6 47 Abito ..................................B5 ÿ Sleeping p214 41 Trimani .............................E1 Prassede ........................ E6 15 Ai Tre Scalini ........................B6 48 Feltrinelli 60 66 Imperial Inn................C4 5 Chiesa di San Martino 16 Antonello Colonna Open .... A4 International ..................C2 61 Beehive ............................G2 ai Monti...........................D6 17 Aromaticus .......................... C5 49 Giacomo Santini...............D5 62 Generator Hostel............G6 6 Chiesa di Santa 18 Ciuri Ciuri .............................B6 50 La Bottega del 63 Hotel Columbia...............D3 Pudenziana .................... C5 19 Da Valentino......................... A5 Cioccolato ......................B6 64 Hotel Duca d'Alba...........B6 7 Chiesa di Sant'Eusebio ... F6 20 Doozo.................................... B5 51 Mercato Monti Urban 65 Radisson Blu Es..............G6 8 Domus Aurea....................C8 21 Forno Roscioli Pietro ...........F7 Market ............................B6 66 Residenza Cellini ............C3 Fontana delle Gelateria 52 Perlei..................................A5 67 Villa Spalletti Trivelli.......A4 Naiadi .................... (see 11) dell'Angeletto.......... (see 64) 53 Podere Vecciano ..............A6 68 Yellow Hostel ..................G2 22 Green & Go........................... B5

315 VILLA BORGHESE & NORTHERN ROME Map on p316 æ Top Sights p178 ú Eating p184 1 Museo e Galleria Borghese........................F6 24 Al Settimo Gelo........................................... B5 2 Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa 25 All'Oro ..........................................................C6 Giulia..........................................................D5 26 Bar Pompi.....................................................B1 27 Caffè delle Arti ............................................ D5 VILLA BORGHESE & NORTHERN ROME æ Sights p181 28 Metamorfosi................................................ E4 3 Auditorium Parco della Musica.................C3 29 Molto ............................................................ E3 4 Bioparco.......................................................E5 30 Neve di Latte............................................... B3 5 Casina delle Civette................................... H6 31 Osteria Flaminio ......................................... C3 6 Casino dei Principi..................................... H6 32 Pasticceria Gruè ......................................... G5 7 Casino Nobile ............................................. H6 33 Pro Loco Pinciano ......................................G6 8 Catacombe di Priscilla .............................. H3 34 Serenella...................................................... F6 9 Explora – Museo dei Bambini di Roma .........................................................C5 û Drinking & Nightlife p185 Fontana delle Rane........................... (see 19) 35 Chioschetto di Ponte Milvio.......................B1 10 Foro Italico...................................................A2 36 Lemoncocco ............................................... G5 11 Giardino del Lago........................................D6 12 La Galleria Nazionale..................................D5 ý Entertainment p186 Musei di Villa Torlonia ........................ (see 7) Auditorium Parco della Museo Archeologico........................... (see 3) Musica................................................(see 3) 13 Museo Carlo Bilotti.....................................D6 37 Casa del Cinema......................................... E6 14 Museo d'Arte Contemporanea di 38 Cinema dei Piccoli...................................... E6 Roma ........................................................ G6 Foro Italico..........................................(see 10) 15 Museo Nazionale delle Arti del 39 Stadio Olimpico .......................................... A2 XXI Secolo.................................................B3 40 Teatro Olimpico.......................................... B3 16 Piazza di Siena ............................................E6 17 Ponte Milvio .................................................B2 þ Shopping p186 18 Porta Pia.......................................................G7 41 Bialetti.......................................................... F6 19 Quartiere Coppedè .....................................G5 42 Libreria l'Argonauta ...................................G6 20 Villa Ada .......................................................G3 21 Villa Borghese .............................................E6 ÿ Sleeping p216 22 Villa Poniatowski.........................................C5 43 Casa Montani..............................................C6 23 Villa Torlonia............................................... H6 44 Palm Gallery Hotel......................................H5 Villa Torlonia Bunker.......................... (see 7)

316 Key on p315 ABC D w1 1 1 Tiber Riv 1 1Pa11Vric1toto11dreiallahg Villa 1 1 Via Cassia Glori w Euclide £# 111 walico ú# 26 CForarsuocidai villa borghese & NORTHERN ROME 1 Via del Foro It Piazzale 00000010000000#æ00000000F00000000or000000VoiaIt000000laelidceol00000000000P00000000000od00000000n000'Ate00000000000oDs00000000000tua00000000000ca 0000000000003000000û#5P000000#æont1e7Milvio 39 er 000000000000000000000000000 ý# Viale Tiziano Via Flaminia 2 Viale delle Olimpiadi Piazza Mancini Lgt Maresciallo Cadorna 30 ú# 000000V000000ia000000le Pietro de Coubertin #æ3 15 3 ilsudski MPduoesnllitaceaGFeaPnbý#iatri4zilaez0nado000000a 000000V000000ia Guido Râ#eni 0000000000000000000000000000 31 ú# Via Maresciallo P Tiber River Lgt Flamin0000io00000000 Viale Tiziano V Via Flaminia 4 Lgt della Vittoria iaVMioantMi PoarniotiliParioli Viale Angelico 00000000000000000000000065000000000000PCi000000000000laozd000000000000zioVa000000000000ia000000le000000G#¡i000000uOSsatetnpaPvpiiVaeeVBnitaMrioaPaoli000000000-ienlaaeú#sz2Gz000000000izd4zzaizuei00000000nallliVi00000000eoiGPaMCM00000000iPiQauCeLizaiul00000000saesziazizearzparz00000000iipztaesdriinapeneoiiteSo00000e#¡t00000te00000Vmia00000brG000000iPMnriaioa0000000pznpRzt0000000MeaaiPPsPMa0000000ooootnnrPantgttNeroteeigeomen000000000000GhRtndtteee000000000000enienrgilPit000000tiFonaGú#PLMariAoaa2FpnzMl5ztpaV000000e0a4aImiNl3lV000000000000ianIiPÿ#â#OaGi0000000000002oiPadi¤#2Vu#¡FoP00000000000009zillipizâ#VaiaaENa00000000Ü00000#amozlitezlalMdirol0000000000000000anVBMBza2uVeliiueoLaaiial00000000â#rsaoGlsaserucliineelGW00000aiVionucaFoiuadaao00000silaldleoihePdrBlariid000000000000000TinHiPeuniSglhlooallite0000000c00000aoozplPolinrzBnoioviat000000000elaaozlVAllzediraaAsaú#2lenreV¤#tn7ciidMâ#ai00001Tele3earolg0000lad1'âr#net2ool#æi1llleii1eVia OslaviaVia G Mang e de Viale Angelico FVeirarari Via Flaminia LeVpiaanto w w Viale del Muro Via dVeilaBdabeuliCnoorso Via MarCVcoiaalnotnonnaio w Barletta w 000000000000000070000000000000000S00000000000000epe3000000000m000000000004ap0000000000A¤#000000000B00000RPOiias000000RozGz000000rgaOi000000mdPe000000elRnV000000AtioaTCI resVc00000000iean00000000Czo0000000000Biola0000000000d00000000i R00000000ie0000nzo000CPai000avzozuarVia Leone IVViaCiVceiaroneTLibgLetrgdtReiiinvMeAreullginuista CAMPOVia di Ripetta Ottaviano jiC 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000Sep00000000000e30m00000a0000p 0000PSiaMpDz000000000000azASgap000000000000RSnSadZpa00000000t0000niaeIiOgps000000000000#nh¡#sa000000000000000 ô# w

317 e# 0 1 km 0 0.5 miles E F G H Via del Foro Italico Via del Foro Italico 000000 Monte £# Ponte 1 Antenna Salario Viale della Moschea Campi Via SalariaVia Ponte Salario villa borghese & NORTHERN ROME Sportivi £# 2 0000000000 £# Acqua Acetosa w000000 w 29 w #ú 00000000 VAidllaa Ü#8 000000 3 Via Anto Via GAiontDViMâ#a#leagdâ#neol#ælleie00000000BG00000000oPaVVVVrViotliaaI0000goioVainlNlleahlpiileleaolPCSaSCeeZvlpealliGaseaeinaLoadpI2#ú000neBneizAoduue3-8eVznnl3mrill1Ld000o#æsNaiiiuiG2ao7tUg#ýaloaer3OnBii#ýepavcD1e8do#zrio6rVsedOtoBliiilnl4VaeUi÷#000nuolciIeGVVocS000ei2iodaazlIle1lei000ezetirdhia000000000000eePllVAS'000000000VitaoVRBiApMa00000000000GiIapRoOaBCauC0000000000rnâ#Looiglsal0000000000InrSehems1corAeUPo000000000000poisiLnaeamad0000000000egLzn'UhIGpzP000000StiaeaaaSiAVra000000glTiiezLaVnaVIzr0000AiiAidaaaRiN0000lXeVIXOOL00000000iPVFSiaeiiieag00000000uawPtiM#útzmþ#aeVV00000000zenmViitaeaa43aaibaBCum14Pr#úaPreeo00000GVCsarRoneirVA3nEaa00000Va1ti3i3S#ûaTioz8lSVa0000000000l6iTOaiGoaæ#a#úR3al00000vRNir2oOiP4Igþ#i000000000000zi2OPVloV2iaza0iiri0000000aanaVato÷#iTaVæ#Taâ#0000aai1VagGn4ila1Diaaa9AVreomogtriraaaei000000000TVnPAVrtiioaPieaV000000000lVPC¡#aenzioraCiasAaze000000000tslshNtaoilttceeaoiorarlonmridnnnid0000ooeea4inrcÿ#l4i0000toaaSnTaB000anFaRutsaIoiElirC0000000ciSoalesT00000000000dtâ#MEi6aT0000000000000000SnuMoazPrV0000000000000â#araan÷#o2ilu#¡t(l(ol3'000000000sli87A7ncao00gli000000000li00eannoâm#emi0000000005csd))eo;i000046570000ParioliViale RomaniaVia Nemorense Viale G Via Salaria SebiVnioa o ssini Vdi'aAGrezzVoia G Paisiello Viale RVeigainAarnMoargherita CVainaloeniPciaetro CVaiavlaelldieMi arini Via Salaria ViaSpLaazllazanrzoani Via Pinciana Corso TVriiaesNtoevara del BPraaosilloe CVaiaglViaiariRegEgmioilia PViiancidianPaorta Via VVietntoertioo Via Piave VViailaelEReleedgnieanal Policlinico Via Palestro w ji00000000E0000#¡0000 F G H .#

southern rome 318 e# 0 1 km 0 0.5 miles 00B 00 000000000000000 A Piazza C ij D E Anticafe Roma Via CFerRveedtieRriom#¡a 0000PRie0000azdziaRdoemi a G Burbée Santa Maria See map Via D D (600m) 1 io Via Marmorata Via Druso Via Gallia (300m) Via Portuense Via Nicola Zabaglia p306 Viale VMiaeVleiaddiePllertaTSearnmSeedbiaCstaiarancoalla Via Appia Antica Piazza Britannia 000000000000000000000000000000000Te000000Psotanctecio Lgt Testacc Viale di Porta ArVdeiaatOinda oardo Viale Giot to 2 Pira Vmiiadlee dCeellstaia VBiraancaLibeTrEatS000000rViTci000000eAa CG000000aClvIaOni 0000000000000000000000000 Piazzale PomVieazia AlbalVoinaga £# Numa Pompilio Via Pacinotti Terme di Tuscolo Via Appia Nuova 1 Caracalla ä# Via tronio 0000000P0000000Eiap0000000zirz0000000oa0000000 Via Eturia £# Viale Guido Baccelli o di Porta Latina Via Imera Ponte Lungo ¡# 111 Via Ivrea ViaFd1111lue111vClioPaV1111miVloael111imreatded11112oe2re6lcl1111C9iú#oa#ú3m1123pæ#112oû#B#ú#ú2116o1a11#ýr3ioÿ#7V4i0a£##¡MPaRSePtltotliaeermagzuiamrcoi-cn£#nOi.#dioesetRSitoaPPamaiú#zariaztoiz-g2nOaie3lasentdiieVeniiaslee Parco San Via Latina Via Acaia #ú28 Sebastiano 17 â# Piazza Via Latina APPIO- #¡2 Galeria LATINO Marco PolBoeccarii Cilicia Via Tiber River ViaBeGinrzoloanimo Via Latina Viale Guglielmo Marconi 12â# #ý Via Ostiense OSTIENSE 3 æ# Via Appia Antica 3 38 Info Point 3 4 16 â##æ Garbatella Circonvallazione Ostiense Appia Antica ¡# Via Giacinto Via Cristoforo Colombo #ï Ü# 10 Pullino GARBATELLA 4 Via Gugliemo Massaia Marrana de ViaPEOnBRraTicsUoiLEliFgNcetaSrdmEdi 0000iSi aS0000nPaP0000ASnaVoAO0000Ü#ilaoNL0000LOib000000000eVSt00000ú#ia53taanV0lR00000eiPaoda3cG3i#ûoc6i2luoo#ûli3û#o4#ûVOV3iira5alaCLEnuandvirgoeiicroo ViPaeIrgsnicaozio Via Via della Caffarella 0000#æ0000 PCaarfcfoardeelllala Via Edgardo Appia Antica (Appian lla Ca arellaff Ferrati Via Ardeatin a 4 æ##ýV3i1a98Alessan1#æd000009ra00000Macinghi Stroz00000zi0000000000 Way) Paolo Fuori le Mura illaVidiaLduelcliana Via delleæ#Sette Chiese #æ

44 ca (Appian Way) PCCauoirltcluoBorlaaFosuOMioLlmVaigricariotiaFoElsdeefeBdiMersaSsMdiVsiolaiedSiununalePaaialr#ïPle000000000000ndAllSnaeaidioAO000000000000Ü#oloNL000000000000SO1Ba#¡000000000000ansPú#ilaicoalo Via Alessandra Macin000g000hi Strozzi Via de9lleæ#Sette Viale GiustiniaVnoiaImC000000opse000000tan000000000000 5 Via Ostiense Chiese æ# 7 V#úia25Ap1p5ia2ä#0Pignatelli 5 Viale Leonardo Da Vinci 13 á# Basilica di ä# ä#11 VillaVidiaLduelcliana San Sebastiano VialeOCdaerlscoalTcohimmaso tino ratore Ü#2 æ#8 6 Tiber Viale Guglielmo Marconi Via Cristoforo Colombo D APPIO River PIGNATELLI ¡# Marconi Via A(AppppiaiaAnnWticaay) 24 #ú ä# 14 Via Ardeatina 31 6 27 #ú ü# Villa dei Quintili (3km) ABCDE FG æ Top Sights p189 12 Ex-Mira Lanza Museum..................A3 23 Eataly ................................................ C2 34 Goa.................................................... B4 13 Mausoleo delle Fosse Estrobar.................................. (see 40) 35 Neo Club........................................... B4 1 Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le 36 Vinile ................................................. B4 Ardeatine ....................................... F5 24 Il Giardino di Giulia e Fratelli ..........G6 Mura ...............................................B5 25 L'Archeologia Ristorante................ G5 14 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella............G6 2 Basilica di San Sebastiano ............. F5 15 Mausoleo di Romolo........................G5 Pizza Ostiense ........................(see 21) 16 Museo Capitoline Centrale 3 Via Appia Antica...............................E3 26 Porto Fluviale ................................... B2 ý Entertainment p198 Montemartini ................................B3 27 Qui Nun Se More Mai......................G6 28 Sbanco...............................................F2 37 Caffè Letterario ............................... B2 17 Museo delle Mura ............................ E2 29 Seacook............................................ B2 æ Sights p194 18 Quartiere Garbatella .......................C4 30 Verde Pistacchio ............................. B4 38 Teatro India...................................... A3 19 Scuola Cesare Battisti ....................C4 4 Albergo Rosso ................................. C3 20 Villa di Massenzio ............................G5 39 Teatro Palladium............................. C4 5 Alexis .................................................B3 6 Caserma dell'Aeronautica ..............B2 ÿ Sleeping p216 7 Catacombe di San Callisto ............. F5 40 Hotel Abitart .................................... B2 8 Catacombe di San Sebastiano....... F5 û Drinking & Nightlife p197 9 Catacombe di Santa Domitilla .......E5 ú Eating p196 31 Appia Antica Caffè ..........................G6 10 Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis........E3 21 Andreotti...........................................B2 32 Circolo Illuminati ............................. B4 11 Circo di Massenzio ......................... G5 22 Doppiozeroo.....................................B3 33 Gazometro 38.................................. B2 southern rome 319

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Our Story A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. Our Writers Duncan Garwood Ancient Rome; Centro Storico; San Giovanni & Testaccio; Vatican City, Borgo & Prati; Villa Borghese & Northern Rome From facing fast bowlers in Barbados to sidestepping hungry pigs in Goa, Duncan’s travels have thrown up many unique experiences. These days he largely dedicates himself to Italy, his adopted homeland where he’s been living since 1997. From his base in the Castelli Romani hills outside Rome, he’s clocked up endless kilometres explor- ing the country’s well-known destinations and far-flung reaches, working on guides to Rome, Sardinia, Sicily, Piedmont, and Naples and the Amalfi Coast. His other LP titles include Italy’s Best Trips, Food Lover’s Guide to the World, and Pocket Bilbao & San Sebastian. He also writes on Italy for newspapers, websites and magazines. Nicola Williams Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo; Southern Rome; Trastevere & Gianicolo, Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale Border-hopping is way of life for British writer, runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum-of-three Nicola Williams. She has lived in a French village on the southern side of Lake Geneva for more than a decade. Nicola has authored more than 50 guidebooks on Paris, Provence, Rome, Tus- cany, France, Italy and Switzerland for Lonely Planet, and covers France as a destination expert for the Telegraph. She also writes for the Independent, Guardian, lonelyplanet. com, Lonely Planet Magazine, French Magazine, Cool Camping France and others. Catch her on the road on Twitter and Instagram at @tripalong. Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 10th edition – Jan 2018 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- ISBN 978 1 78657 259 2 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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