Lonely Planet Myanmar (Burma) (Country Travel Guide)

249 with shared bathroom s/d US$15/18; aW) A equipped, and the chunky rounded wood- good-value backpacker favourite. Bare fluo- en furniture looks durable. Some rooms rescent bulbs on pastel-blue corridor walls have limited natural light, and one is a fully can feel a little soulless but rooms are clean decked-out Hello Kitty suite that will forever and mostly spacious with hot showers. The haunt our dreams. staff are helpful. Power points are in short supply but plugs Mandalay City Hotel HOTEL $$ and wi-fi are available in several common (Map p242; %02-61700; www.mandalaycityhotel. areas. Bicycle rental outside is K1500. Odd-­ com; 26th St, 82/83; r US$70-95, ste from US$140; numbered rooms have more natural light. aiWs) Walking past you’d never guess this enticing palm-shaded oasis lay just behind all HOTEL $$ the dreary buildings of 26th St. The airy, tiled Hotel 8 (Map p242; %02-31448; 29th St, 82/83; r from lobby is entered across a fish pond and there’s US$28; aW) This multistorey midrange an attractive outdoor pool (nonguests US$5). M a n da l ay & A ro u n d MS lAaenNeDdpiAanlL aAgYy glass tower is great value for money – scratch Statuettes, local paintings and some genuinely that, it’s a lovely hotel all around. The ladies funky accents add some interest to rooms that at the front desk are friendly and helpful, the are comfortable if not luxurious. staff are attentive (maybe a little too atten- tive), the vibe is clean and comfortable, and Hotel Queen HOTEL $$ the splashes of colour give the rooms some (Map p242; %02-71562; www.hotelqueenmandalay. warm character. com; 81st St, 32/33; standard/superior/ste/f from US$45/50/60/90; aiWc) Good value HOTEL $$ among similar midrange towers; even the Hotel A1 (Map p242; %02-67401; http://hotela1mandalay. smaller rooms have sitting areas. Superior com; 32nd & 83rd St; r from US$24; aW) Buoy- rooms are more spacious. The foyer is at- ant staff, surprisingly light-filled rooms, a tractive, staff are energetic and there’s a bar decent bar and an efficient, clean and com- on the top floor. fortable atmosphere make this a good-value choice for those who want three-star com- 79 Living Hotel HOTEL $$ fort. Be warned that the internet connection (Map p242; %02-32277; http://79livinghotel can be spotty. mandalay.com; 79th St, 29/30; d/family from US$35/65; aW) This sensibly priced lower-­ HOTEL $$ midrange hotel is handily placed behind Golden City Light Hotel (Map p242; %02-60029; www.goldencitylighthotel. the train station with gleaming clean floors, com; 77th St, 34/35; r from US$25; aW) This high ceilings, minibar, lift and maybe a friendly spot is located near some cool mar- (fake) welcome rose on the bed. kets and offers reasonably handsome rooms, chilly air-conditioning, hot showers and My World Hotel HOTEL $$ decent internet connections. Plus, those red- (Map p242; %02-30841; http://hotelmyworld.com; and black-trim staff uniforms are snappy! 30th St, 73/74; r US$40-55; aW) These rooms have a boutique-like modern design, and HOTEL $$ the little 5th-floor roof ‘garden’ has appeal- Hotel Yadanarbon (Map p242; %02-71999; www.hotelyadanarbon. ing views down busy 30th St. While there’s com; 31st St at 76th St; r US$45-93, ste US$135-180; nothing that particularly stands out about aW) All rooms have crisp linens, bed sashes, My World, it’s great value for money. parquet floors and vague colonial-style bath- room doors. Even the cheapest ‘standard’ Royal City Hotel HOTEL $$ rooms are fair-sized, with fridge, safe, small (Map p242; %02-28299; www.royalcityhotelman sitting space, flat-screen TV and bathtub. dalay.com; 27th St, 76/77; r US$30-55; aiW) The location is handy for the train station This traveller-oriented lower-midrange ho- and there’s a wealth of street food right out- tel has a lovely roof garden, helpful staff and side, plus a rooftop bar and restaurant. decent rooms – nothing too exemplary, but clean and kitted out well for the price. Gold Yadanar HOTEL $$ Shwe Ingyinn Hotel HOTEL $$$ (Map p242; %02-71048; www.goldyadanarhotel. com; 34thSt,77/78; d/tw/ste/trUS$60/70/80/90; (Map p242; %02-73462; www.shweingyinnhotel. com; 30th St at 78th St; r from US$100, ste from aiW) For a 40-room hotel, a large chande- US$170; W) Shwe Ingyin boasts plenty of lier dangling from a two-storey foyer might seem a little excessive but it’s stylishly done. style and ranks as one of the nicer top- end hotels in Central Mandalay. A carved The rooms are impeccably tidy and well

250 Rupar Mandalar RESORT $$$ wooden receptionist ‘island’ dominates the (%02-61552; www.ruparmandalar.com; 53rd St lobby, lantern-lamps and potted plants en- at 30th St; d/ste from US$260/600; aiWs) liven corridors, and rooms are well kitted This lovely all-teak low-rise complex is set out and clean. This hotel offers enormous in tropical foliage melding timeless neo-­ discounts via online booking engines. traditional features with modern design flair Kyi Tin Hotel HOTEL, BUNGALOWS $$$ and lashings of Burma-colonial chic (dark (Map p242; %02-23715; www.kyitinhotel.com; 80th St, 31/32; r from US$40, bungalow/deluxe US$100- teak, polished wood floors etc). The outdoor swimming pools are remarkably spacious and 150; a) Kyi Tin’s defining feature is its series guests qualify for a free Thai massage in the of balcony-fronted bungalows set in a large yet central lawn-and-fountain garden. The appealing spa. Serious discounts can be found online. It’s hidden away in the far-eastern whole space has a simple Burma-colonial semirural suburbs so you’ll need wheels to get M a n da l ay & A ro u n d ME aaAtNniDnd aAglL AayY style with black lacquered wooden floors. It offers fair value, especially if you can seize a virtually anywhere. promotional rate. Less-interesting ‘deluxe’ Hotel Shwe Pyi Thar HOTEL $$$ (%02-74402; www.hotelshwepyithar.com; 51st rooms with subdued cream-brown colours St, 31/32; r US$140-300, ste US$700-2500; pa are in a partly finished modern block. Ws) All the carvings, marble, polished par- quet, greenery, views and black-lacquered 4 Greater Mandalay bedsteads don’t necessarily compensate Ayarwaddy River View Hotel HOTEL $$ for the isolated out-of-town location of this (Map p242; %02-64946, 02-72373; www.ayarwaddy riverview-hotel.com; Strand Rd, 22/23; d US$50-130, six-storey complex, which is popular with the wealthy set. ste US$170; aiWs) Luxurious for the price, this sizeable hotel has tasteful, restrained 5 Eating decor in large, fully equipped rooms sport- ing parquet floors and fashion-neutral bath- There’s no main restaurant area; many bet- rooms. Price depends on size and view. And ter choices require cycling down dark roads, what a view! Upper-floor front-facing rooms such as 27th St, south of the moat. But if you look across the river towards distant Mingun, persist for a few minutes in any direction rear-upper ones overlook the city, Mandalay you’re likely to find some good street-food Hill and the Shan uplands. Enjoy the lot from areas. For inexpensive barbecue snacks (no- the rooftop bar where marionette shows are tably spicy whole fish for around K2500) staged in high season. and K800 draught beers, visit one of the countless beer stations. Shwe Taung Tarn BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (%02-75405; www.shwetaungtarnhotel.com; 14th Hours vary; if business is slow, many res- St at 88th St; r from US$80; aWs) This cosy taurants will close early, or stay open if busy. boutique boasts a tree-shaded pool and rooms with locally flavoured decorative Upper Burmese are sometimes nick- touches and corner bathtubs. Staff are very named ‘bean eaters’ by their coastal cousins, friendly, and the location is a peaceful, if an- which speaks to the importance of beans noyingly remote, stretch of 14th St – if not as a regional staple. While rice remains the for the occasional honk you’d feel as if you’d main source of caloric intake, bean salads left the city. Not really, but you get the gist. and curries are a common accompanying dish. The city of Mandalay is also strongly Golden Mandalay HOTEL $$ associated with nan gyi thoke (nahn-jee- (Map p238; %09 40251; shwemdy1974@gmail. thoke) a delicious noodle and chicken salad com; 60th St at 19th St; r US$35; a) Attractively mixed with onion, turmeric, chilli and oil, served at room temperature. set amid palms with a small dining terrace 5 Royal Mandalay perched above a canal, this 10-room ‘fami- ly paradise’ is a cluster of relatively simple Mingalabar Myanmar Restaurant BURMESE $ bungalow-­style rooms festooned on the outside (Map p238; %02-60480; 71st St, 28/29; mains with bamboo patchwork designs, temple-style K1500-6000; h6am-9pm; avE) This large, steps, polished stones and carved totem-like clean and friendly locals’ favourite is a tradi- designs. It’s sweetly unique but lights could be tional Burmese pick-and-pig-out kind of spot: brighter, bathrooms aren’t modern, beds are select your soup or curry or salad (really, any spongy and wi-fi is very limited. sort of yummy thing that can be spooned on

251 MANDALAY STREET FOOD STALLS M a n da l ay & A ro u n d ME aaAtNniDnd aAglL AayY Along with beer-station barbecues, the best-value dining is usually at street stalls, many of which plonk down their plastic stools for only a few hours a day. Certain corners or street sections have culinary specialities, but knowing which takes some insider knowledge. Morning Only ¨¨Shan noodles with bean paste – 29th St, 80/81 before 10am. ¨¨Mohinga (fish noodle soup) – Try the three-wheel street-trolley stall at 32nd St at 81st St, from 6.30am to 9.30am. There’s another fantastic mohinga station with similar hours just to the left as you pass the entrance gate to Mahamuni Paya. Daytime ¨¨Point-and-pick multicurries – several inexpensive family snack outlets are dotted along an unnamed lane between 74th and 75th Sts. ¨¨Burmese sweets – takeaway from near 85th St at 27th St in Zeigyo Market. ¨¨Sweet tea and fresh nanbya (tandoor bread) at Min Thiha (p254). Night-time Only ¨¨Indian chapatti and curry – 28th St at 82nd St. ¨¨Indian/savoury ‘pancakes’ and biryanis at Karaweik (Map p242; 26th St at 83rd St; pancakes K500-750; h 5.30pm-midnight). ¨¨Chinese food stalls – 34th St at 76th St with a night market (vegetables) stretching along 34th St. ¨¨A night market at 84th & 29th St offers a grab bag of all of the above. to rice), have it served with a veritable forest by lanterns and a less-impressive pavilion of side dishes, feel full for the rest of the day. space beside it. Ko’s Kitchen THAI $$ Café City INTERNATIONAL $$ (Map p238; %02-31265; 80th St at 19th St; mains (Map p238; %02-61237, 02-61484; East Moat K3500-8500; h11am-2.30pm & 5.30-9pm; aE) Rd/66th St, 20/22; meals K5500-10,200, draught You’ll find an intimidatingly large menu of au- beer K1500; h9am-11pm; aWE) Red-‘leather’ thentic (read: spicy and very good) northern-­ booths and classic vintage signs add to the Thai food served in an attractive art-d­eco feeling of a comfortable, latter-day American building with simple, peach-­coloured decor. diner transplanted into Myanmar. The menu Eat early to avoid evening tour groups, which ranges from steaks and English triangular can overwhelm this relatively modest-sized sandwiches to ‘lobster’ and delicious coconut-­ place. basted fish kebabs. Oh, and the coffee is great. It’s popular with wealthy local families. Green Elephant BURMESE $$ (Map p238; %02-61237; www.greenelephant-res Koffie Korner INTERNATIONAL $$ taurants.com; 27th St, 64/65; mains K8000-13,000, (Map p238; %02-68648; 27th St at 70th St; mains set menus from K8500-15,000; h10am-10pm; K3500-9000; h9am-10.30pm; paWE) This aWE) This is basically Burmese cuisine gently buzzing lounge-style cafe-restaurant is for tour groups, although individuals can set behind palms. The predominantly West- usually get a slightly adapted version with ern menu has lots of coffee drinks (imagine six or so dishes on request. The food is good, that), quesadillas, Russian salad, pasta, steak so if you’re nervous about trying Burmese and some imaginative sauce flavours such outside on the street, this is a solid bet, but as lime-caper-butter, spicy raisin-orange or otherwise it’s local cuisine with significantly garlic-mint. This spot is popular with young, marked-up prices. moneyed Mandalay folks, and a large cocktail A few tables are tucked within an air-­ menu makes it a trendy night-time hang-out. conditioned Pyin Oo Lwin–style colonial-era building full of period relics (ask). Others Golden Duck CHINESE $$ spill out into a bamboo-tufted garden lit (Map p238; %02-36808; 80th St at 16th St; veg/ nonveg dishes from K2000/4000, duck K12,000;

252 Lashio Lay SHAN $ h10.30am-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm; aEc) This (Map p242; %02-22653; 23rd St, 83/84; per plate large bustling Chinese restaurant is a verita- K500-2500; h10am-9.30pm; E) This simple, ble local institution. That sweet view across long-running restaurant is known for con- the moat is well complemented by some sistently good, Shan-inspired dishes. Point perfectly roasted duck and chilli-lashed noo- and pick and pay per dish – a couple of cur- dles. Service can be slow. ries and some rice ought to fill you up. Pop- 5 Central Mandalay ular for cold beers as the evening goes on. Aye Myit Tar BURMESE $ Rainforest THAI $ (Map p242; %09 4316 1551, 02-36234; lane off (Map p242; 81st St, 36/37; full meal K2200-6500; 27th St, 74/75; mains K2500-6000; h10am-10pm; h8.30am-9.30pm; aE) Brightly lit, this sim- ple but historic thick-walled colonial-era WvEc) Climb through a treasure-packed M a n da l ay & A ro u n d ME aaAtNniDnd aAglL AayY family ‘antique’ shop to a covered balcony merchant’s building now houses a popular with tinkling wind chimes and assorted hand- multicurry eatery. Choose the main dish and four sides; four condiments, soup, rice and icrafts to dine on Thai food that’s creamy and mildly spiced for Western palates. This place salad are included. feels the most backpacker-oriented in Manda- Pan Cherry INDIAN $ lay (except perhaps Marie-Min next door), as (Map p242; %02-39924; 81st St, 26/27; curry K1500-4000; h8am-9pm) Sit at plastic chairs reflected by the linen-clad clientele. in a floral-ceilinged box room for great-value, Too Too Restaurant BURMESE $ (Map p242; 27th St, 74/75; meals K2800-5000; belly-straining Indian meals complete with h10am-8.30pm) Respected home-style local dhal, condiments, veg, rice and pappadam. fare, precooked and served in a bright bland Super 81 CHINESE $ box room. Pick your main curry (prawn rec- (Map p242; 81st St, 38/39; mains K3500-13,000; h9.30am-11pm) Excellent, beautifully pre- ommended) from the display; two sides, two condiments, soup and rice come free. sented Chinese food in very generous por- tions, plus typical barbecues and cheap Pakkoku Dawlaymay BURMESE $ (Map p242; 73rd St, 27/28; mains K1300-3000; draught beer in frosted glasses. Downstairs h10am-8.30pm; E) This basic, archetypal is a convivial beer station but prices are the same upstairs in the pleasantly appointed local restaurant is a garage-style room with whirring fans and light panels that indicate air-con restaurant. Handy place if you’re (in Burmese) which of some three dozen waiting for a Moustache Brothers (p255) performance. possible curries are available (printed list usually available in English on request). Cur- Shan Ma Ma SHAN $ ries come with a panful of rice and accompa- (Map p242; %02-71858; 81st 29/30; dishes K1500-7000; h11am-9.30pm; vE) Low plas- niments, usually salad herbs, tomato-bean curry, peanut salad and a semi-sweet dhal. tic stools? Check. Delicious smell of frying oil? Check. And the friendly sisters who run Marie-Min VEGETARIAN $ (Map p242; off 27th St, 74/75; mains K2000-3000; it will offer you a taste of what’s on offer h9am-10pm; WvE) An all-vegetarian menu before you decide. This is Southeast Asian budget dining at its best, all home-cooked fits the owners’ stated principle: ‘Be kind to animals by not eating them’, which has an curries and noodle dishes made to order. Eat admirable logical consistency. Highlights of like royalty while spending the change you found between your couch cushions. the menu, which largely references Sri Lan- ka, India and Myanmar, include tofu curry, Shwe Khaing Barbeque BARBECUE $ a meal-sized aubergine ‘dip’ and avocado (Map p242; 82nd St at 33rd St; mains K1500-7000; h11am-10pm; E) This excellent little barbe- milkshakes (K2000) that are as ‘fabulous’ as promised. Very popular with backpackers. cue spot is popular with locals, who pack in to watch football, sink beers and order SP Bakery BAKERY $ (Map p242; %02-64213; www.spbakery-myanmar. everything from land and sea grilled to or- com; 32nd St, 80/81; baked goods K700-2000; der – be it tomatoes, shrimp, skewers, or whole fish. If you can think of it, these guys h8am-10pm; a) This branch of a beloved national chain dishes out decent and cheap can cook it over an open flame, and it comes baked goods – sweet and savoury pies, buns out great.

and the rest. If you need to fuel up before 253 some day tripping, it’s a good option. French-style roast chicken. It sets aside spe- cial nights for mixed grills featuring big cuts Fried Grasshopper Vendors STREET FOOD $ of steak and chops imported from Australia. (Map p242; 86th St, 24/25; bag of grasshoppers Reservations aren’t a bad idea. K350) Looking for something strange? ‘Hop’ on over to these stalls for fried grasshopper. 5 Greater Mandalay Nova Coffee INTERNATIONAL $$ Mr BarBQ BURMESE $ (Map p238; 71st St at 31st St; barbecue K600-8000; (Map p242; %9 40276 6721; 37th St, 79/80; mains h11am-11pm) This garden-style beer station K2000-12,000; h10am-10pm; aWE) Frigid air-conditioning, friendly staff and excellent is hard to beat for quality barbecue with many less-common options including whole coffee greet you at Nova, which is popular squid and delicious fish-wrapped prawns. A with Mandalay’s young and hip things. The M a n da l ay & A ro u n d DMrAainNnDdkAai nlL aAgYy& Ni g ht l ife menu runs an eclectic gamut from bacon popular spot for a beer, several packs of cig- arettes and football on the TV. carbonara to deep-fried prawns; we’re fans of the desserts, which range from chocolate puddings to enormous waffles. Mya Nandar BURMESE, CHINESE $$ (Map p242; %02-66110; www.myanandarrestau rant.com; Strand Rd, 26/28; mains K4000-13,000; BBB INTERNATIONAL $$ h9am-11pm; E) Smart open-sided pavilions (Map p242; %02-73525; 76th St, 26/27; mains K4000-11,000; h10am-10.30pm; aE) This in a great tree-shaded riverside location with good and varied food. The bigger draws Mandalay classic is a regular hang-out for (October to February) are the free puppet the expat/NGO-employed/businessperson crowd, who pack in for stiff cocktails and shows (1pm) and traditional dances (7.30pm to 9pm) performed even when tour groups good Western food. It’s one of the more at- fail to show up. Bring mosquito repellent. tractive restaurants in town, and manages to recreate the ‘cosy-restaurant-meets-pub’ 6 Drinking & Nightlife vibe quite well in the heart of Mandalay. The drinking scene in Mandalay is roughly di- Cafe House INTERNATIONAL $$ vided into three camps: hip bars for the city’s (Map p242; 02-32771; 37th St, 78/79; mains K1500- young elites (with the odd expat thrown in), 7000; h8am-10pm; aE) Easily missed in the loud, bare-bones beer stations serving cheap gold-pounders’ area, Cafe House is comfy frosty brews for the working man (and we with forgettable decor but strong air-con. mean men), and drinks at more upmarket The big draw is the superb fried wanton Western-fusion-style restaurants. Women wheel with ginger sauce, a great snack for are welcome at each of these, but will stand two to share; that said, the menu draws out at beer stations. from an eclectic array of cuisines (Thai, Chi- nese and Western). Central Park BAR (Map p238; 27th St, 68/69; beer from K900, cocktails from K3000; h10am-11pm) This con- V Cafe INTERNATIONAL $$ (Map p242; %02-24688; 25th St at 80th St; mains K2500-8000; h9am-10.30pm; aWE) V’s prices vivial open-sided bar-pavilion cleverly com- bines the best points of a beer-and-barbecue are noticeably cheaper than most of Man- station with a low-key, musically eclectic dalay’s air-conditioned Western cafe-bars. cocktail bar adding a tourist-friendly food While the dangling hearts and mood-lit menu to boot. It’s a sociable place to unwind flower cut-outs are more cutesy than trendy, and some of the decorative Myanmar arte- there’s a top-floor rooftop bar with close-up facts are a century old. views of the moat and fortress walls. Ginki Mandalay BAR Bistro at 82nd INTERNATIONAL $$$ (Map p238; %09 79780 2600; cnr 71st & 28th (Map p242; %09 25012 1280; www.bistro82nd mandalay.com; 82nd St, 30/31; mains K9000- Sts; beer from K2000, cocktails K3500-8000; h10.30am-11pm; W) A branch of the same- 17,000, grill K10,000-33,500; h11am-10pm, lim- named Yangon bar-restaurant, at Ginki ited menu 2-6pm; aWE) This smart little restaurant is all the rage with the Manda- you can imbibe on its large terrace shaded by palm trees; a step up from drinking in lay jet-set crowd. Pack in for strong coffees, your typical, scruffy beer station. The menu creative cocktails and continental European (mains from K3000) mixes Chinese, Thai cuisine, ranging from Italian pasta dishes to and Indian dishes, with a few Western ones.

254 Mya Yi Nandar BEER STATION 73rd St from here are several equally lively eating and drinking spots. (Map p238; 19th St,65/66; draught beer from K700) One of Mandalay’s more appealing beer sta- tions with fairy lights, balloon-shaped lan- Unison Teahouse TEAHOUSE terns and foliage including a row of mature (Map p242; 38th St at 88th St; tea K300; h5am- 1am) This octagonal teahouse is a fun place palms. to retreat to after visiting the jade market. Royal Lake BEER STATION You can watch furtive-looking gem mer- (%09 100 9445; Kandawgyi Lake; mains K400- chants discussing deals over a cuppa. 12,000; h9am-11pm, music from 7pm) This lake- side complex has a boardwalk seating area Emperor BEER STATION with stage for live music. What’s far more re- (Kandawgyi Pat Rd at 85th St; draught beer K1000) This simple beer station comes to life after M a n da l ay & A ro u n d ME naAtnNeDdrAatLlaAaiYyn me n t markable, however, is a gilded wooden ‘royal dark when the trees are beautifully lit with barge’ moored 650ft around the shore. Once a feature of the central moat, the barge is far orange paper lanterns. Snooker tables are available; live acoustic music sets start at more boatlike than the bigger, concrete Yan- around 7pm. gon version. When it’s quiet, you can have a beer without eating a meal. Rainbow BEER STATION MR2 Pub COCKTAIL BAR (Map p242; 83rd St at 23rd St; beer K700, barbe- cue/small plates from K800/2000; h9am-11pm) (Map p238; %02-22955; 80th St, 16/17; espresso/ This lively beer station draws in the crowds juice/cocktails K1500/2000/5000; h9am-10pm) The animated youthful clientele don’t seem for football-watching; it serves reasonable food too. quite poised enough for the cutting-edge mu- sic and design of this smooth bar that softens 3 Entertainment its neo-Bauhaus architecture with fountain pool, coloured lights and giant floral paint- Evening shows, professionally performed ings. It’s a restaurant by day. but aimed squarely at tourist audiences, have helped rekindle interest in traditional Min Thiha TEAHOUSE dance and puppetry. The most authentic performances are set to a six-piece ‘or- (Map p238; 28th St at 72nd St; tea/nanbya chestra’ led by a distinctively wailing hneh K350/300; h6am-4pm) Three trees grow (an oboe-like instrument). The other mu- through the roof of this archetypal unso- sicians are percussionists notably playing phisticated older teahouse, its walls pasted gamelan-style arrangements on gongs and with Buddhist aphorisms, bread pictures tuned circles of minidrums known as sai- and English Premier League lion symbols. wai. You can see a selection of performances during dinner shows at several upmarket Cafe YMH BEER STATION hotels, and at Mya Nandar (p253) riverside restaurant. (Ya Mone Hlaing; Map p242; Strand Rd, 26/28; draught beer K600; h9am-10pm) This slightly Yoke thé, or Burmese marionette puppet- tatty beer station has a terrace with a bril- ry, has been a performing art since at least liant view overlooking the riverboat activity, the late 18th century. The skill of yoke thé plus an astonishingly wide-ranging menu. masters, and the beauty of their handcrafted puppets, is the stuff of folklore. Characters Cafe JJ BAR ranging from nagas to princes, and from ogres to magicians caper and dance on a (Map p238; %02-74349; www.cafejj.com; 26th St raised stage, moving their limbs and heads at 65th St; coffee K1200-3000, cocktails K3000- in a sinuous, oddly expressive manner. Ever 7000; h9am-10.30pm; W) Distinctive ‘caged’ read about the ‘uncanny valley’, the point lamps provide character in this comfortably where an artificial representation of a hu- hip cafe with Casadio espresso machine and man begins to resemble an actual human in chilled Athaya Burmese red wine on tap. an almost unsettling way? You can see the point reached at a Burmese puppet show, Uncle Chan Beer Station BEER STATION although we mean this in a good way – the performers are simply that skilled. The (Map p242; 35th St, 72/73; barbecue items from entire affair is buoyed by an energetic or- K800, mains K3000-5000; h8am-10pm) A cut chestra (hsaing-waing) that adds clashing above most typical beer barns and a little cymbals, tinkly percussion, and plenty of less male-dominated, there’s a wide range of eating possibilities here, but the prime attractions are the polar-cold brews in su- perfrosty mugs. Stretching several blocks up

255 MOUSTACHE BROTHERS – FROM SLAPSTICK TO SATIRE M a n da l ay & A ro u n d ME naAtnNeDdrAatLlaAaiYyn me n t The internationally celebrated Moustache Brothers (Map p242; 39th St, 80/81; K10,000; h8.30pm) perform a-nyeint – a form of vaudeville folk opera with dance, music, jokes and silly walks. In 1996 the brothers performed an Independence Day show at Aung San Suu Kyi’s Yangon compound, telling politically tinged jokes about Myanmar generals. For two of the three ‘brothers’ (Par Par Lay and Lu Zaw), the result was arrest and seven years’ hard labour. Several Hollywood comedians (including Rob Reiner and Bill Maher) wrote to the government in protest while the third brother, Lu Maw, kept the Mandalay show going with the help of his wife. After their release in 2002, the reunited Moustache Brothers remained ‘blacklisted’ from playing at outside events (marriages, funerals, festivals and so on). However, they played a series of gala performances at home attended – inevitably – by government agents, nicknamed ‘KGB’ by Lu Maw. The regional commander soon summoned Par Par Lay and demanded that all performances stop, even in his house. But when Par Par Lay got home, some Westerners had already gathered for that night’s show. Imaginatively the troupe decided to go ahead without costumes and make-up, arguing that a costume- less show would be a ‘demonstration’ not a real ‘performance’. Somehow, it worked. Fol- lowing the September 2007 troubles (the Saffron Revolution monk protests), the group’s original leader Par Par Lay (who passed away in August 2013) suffered another month in jail. But the shows – now entirely in English – have never stopped. Costumes have reap- peared, at least for the dancers, adding colour to the concrete-box theatre room that’s adorned with photos of the brothers’ glory days and their many celebrity encounters. The show can be tough to follow. The levels of English aren’t phenomenal, and Bur- mese humour itself relies on a sense of slapstick and cultural references that will under- standably soar over a foreigner’s head. On the flip side, the political satire isn’t exactly subtle, and there are plenty of ‘Take my wife, please’ riffs. This isn’t a critique – simply an acknowledgement that the show, for all its foreign attendance, still hews to Burmese humour conventions, and some audiences may struggle to keep up. But approach with an open mind and an appreciation for the show’s deep empathy, and you’ll walk away with a grin as big as Lu Maw’s. good-natured back and forth banter with Yoe, tumbling off the stage as he fails to im- the puppet handlers. To enjoy a show try press his beau. Mandalay Marionettes. The Mintha Theater is now the public oMandalay Marionettes PUPPET THEATRE venue of the Inwa School of Performing Arts, a new high school for youth who aspire to be (Map p238; %02-34446; www.mandalaymarion professional stage artists. Proceeds from the ettes.com; 66th St at 27th St; K10,000; h8.30pm; theatre benefit the school and preservation c) On a tiny stage, colourful marionettes of Myanmar performing arts, which face low expressively recreate snippets of traditional funding from state sources. To learn more tales. Occasionally a curtain is lifted so that about and support these efforts, check out you can briefly admire the deft hand move- www.artsmandalay.org. ments of the puppeteers (one an octogenari- an) who have performed internationally. You Minglar Diamond Cineplex CINEMA, CONCERTS can also buy puppets here. (Map p242; %02-765641; 5th fl, Diamond Plaza, rear bldg, 33rd St, 78/77; tickets from K1500) Hid- Mintha Theater DANCE den on the 5th floor of this big shopping centre are a three-screen cinema, several (Map p238; %09 45897 4512 09 680 3607; www. fast-food eateries and a concert hall with oc- minthatheater.com; 58th St, 29/30; K14000; casional Myanmar rap and pop gigs. h8.30pm Jul-Mar) S Colourfully costumed dancers perform around 10 dances from a larger repertoire. Some give human form Win-Win 35 LIVE MUSIC to traditional stories of local folklore, while (35th St, 60/62; draught beer from K750; h9am- 11pm, music from 7.30pm) A small stage in others are examples of typical Burmese slap- the garden of this spacious beer station stick – perhaps a comedic drunkard or the jokily incompetent moustachioed U Shwe provides live music from talented local

256 Sut Ngai FABRIC bands. The show we enjoyed featured Hotel California–e­ sque chords and a singer with (Map p242; 33rd St, 82/83; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) a Joe Cocker rasp. No cover, cheap beer and Sells Kachin fabrics and costumes, aimed sizzler-plate meals where the main vegeta- mainly at Kachins themselves rather than ble is roast garlic. tourists. 7 Shopping Shwe Pathein GIFTS & SOUVENIRS Mandalay is a major arts and crafts centre. (Map p242; 141 36th St, 77/78; parasols from It’s probably the best place in Myanmar for US$15; h8am-5pm) Pathein-style parasols. traditional puppets and handwoven tap- Next door there’s a leather workshop and a estries. Beware: items may be deliberately gold-leaf shop. scuffed or weathered to look older than they are. Handicraft places generally have to payM a n da l ay & A ro u n d MS hAaonNpDdpAaiLlnaAgYyOcean Super Center SUPERMARKET commissions to drivers or guides, so prices may prove better if you visit alone. (Map p242; Diamond Plaza basement, 78th St, 33/34; h9am-9pm) Central Mandalay’s best- stocked supermarket is in the basement of the city’s biggest shopping mall. Rocky GIFTS & SOUVENIRS (Sein Win Myint; Map p238; %02-74106; 27th St, Zegyo MARKET 62/63; h8.30am-8pm) One of Mandalay’s (Zaycho; Map p242; 84/86th, 26/28th; hhours vary better handicrafts shops; the goods include by shop) The 25-storey tower that overpow- lacquer, puppets, carvings and stuffed ‘gold- ers the Mandalay skyline balances atop one thread’ appliqué tapestries, plus gems and of three horrendous, neighbouring concrete jade – basically, the full gamut of traditional ‘malls’, stiflingly crammed full of fabric sellers. arts and crafts. However, the surrounding older market areas are fascinating places to wander amid piles King Galon ARTS & CRAFTS of dried fish, sacks of chilli and giant clusters (Map p242; %02-32135; 36th St, 77/78; h8am- of bananas. The area begins busting around 6pm) The most sophisticated of Mandalay’s gold-leaf workshops, King Galon offers pa- 8am, and most shops close by 7pm. tient explanations of the gold-pounding Golden Rose ARTS & CRAFTS process without sales pressure. Also stocks (Map p242; 36th St, 78/79; h7am-8pm) A row of a range of souvenir handicrafts. four gold-leaf beaters thump away at the back of the Golden Rose shop-workshop with vis- itors welcome to drop in and watch or get a WHERE TO FIND full explanation of the beating process. HANDICRAFTS & ANTIQUES Aurora ARTS & CRAFTS ¨¨Buy puppets at Moustache Brothers (p255) and Mandalay Marionettes (Map p242; 78th St, 35/36) Handicrafts gallery. (p255). 88 Information ¨¨Monks’ accoutrements (alms bowls, robes, fans etc) are sold in the street INTERNET ACCESS west of Eindawa Paya. Wi-fi is available in better cafe-bars and in most hotels, including budget lodges. Internet cafes ¨¨Some gold-leaf-pounding workshops are dotted every few blocks throughout the city have souvenirs. centre. Speeds are moderate at best, and at worst annoyingly slow. Don’t count on down- ¨¨There’s a popular antiques and loads or streaming internet. souvenir shop below Marie-Min (p252), which keeps the same hours as the MONEY restuarant. Pristine euro, US dollar and Singapore dollar banknotes can be changed for excellent rates ¨¨There are numerous silk workshops at Mandalay Airport and at downtown money and handicraft emporia along the main changers, such as Faith Moneychanger (Map Sagaing road in Amarapura. p242; 26th St, 81/82; h9am-5pm), and several branches of KBZ Bank (Map p242; 34th St at 78th ¨¨Good-value souvenirs can be found St; h9.30am-3pm Mon-Fri) and CB Bank (Map in the approach passages to Mahamuni p242; % 02-22176; 26th St, 84/85; h9.30am- Paya and from peddlers around Inwa. 3pm Mon-Fri). Both banks (and numerous other ¨¨Mingun has numerous ‘art’ galleries, mostly inexpensive.

257 financial institutions) have 24-hour ATMs for Visa, h 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun; W) MasterCard, Maestro, Plus and UnionPay. Professional travel and tour agent. Seven Diamond (Map p242; % 02-72939, Midrange and high-end hotels, and some 02-72868; www.sevendiamondtravels.com; higher-­end restaurants, may accept credit 82nd St, 26/27; h 8.30am-6pm, closed Sun) cards, but you’ll need cash elsewhere. Helpful, major agency that can prebook flights and hotels by email request and organise POST airport-bound shared taxis. DHL (Map p242; % 02-39274; Hotel Mandalay, Tour Mandalay (% 02-62625; www.tourman 78th St, 37/38; h 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to dalay.travel; cnr 35th & 71st Sts; h 9am-6pm 12.30pm Sat) International courier. Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun) Professional agency Main Post Office (Map p242; % 02–27755; that can arrange cruises and other tours. 22nd St, 80/81; h10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) TELEPHONE 88 Getting There & Away M a n da l ay & A ro u n d GMeAatnNtDdiaAnlLgaATYyhe r e & Away Calls cost K100 (local) or K200 to K500 (in- ternational) per minute from street stands. AIR Mobile-phone SIM cards typically cost around All flights use Mandalay International Airport US$1.50 from ever-multiplying phone shops. (MDL; % 02-27048, 02-27027), which is just Central Telephone & Telegraph (CTT; Map over 20 miles south of the city. International and p242) domestic routes expand on an almost monthly basis. TOURIST INFORMATION MTT (Myanmar Travel & Tours; Map p238; Major airlines operating from Mandalay in- % 02-60356; 68th St, 26/27; h 9.30am-6pm) clude Air Bagan (Map p242; % 02-61791; www. The government-run travel company doubles as airbagan.com; 78th St, 27/28; h 9am-5pm a tourist office, giving away multicity maps as Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat), Air Mandalay (Map p242; well as selling transport tickets and places on % 02-61513; www.airmandalay.com; 78th St, tours that require government permits. 29/30; h 9am-5pm, to 1pm Sun), Asian Wings (Map p242; % 02-74791; www.asianwingsair. TRAVEL AGENCIES com; 30th St at 78th St; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to Green Myanmar (Map p242; % 09 42007 2pm Sat & Sun), Golden Myanmar (% 09 97799 7655, 09 96991 0109; www.green-myanmar. 3000; www.gmairlines.com), Yangon Airways com; cnr 78th & 26th Sts) Can arrange boat (www.yangonair.com), Air KBZ (Map p238; tours and sightseeing excursions. % 02-24861; www.airkbz.com; 30th St, 71/72; Mandalay Palace Ticket Booth (Map p238; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun), Myan- east entrance, Mandalay Palace, 19th St) Sells mar National Airlines (Map p242; % 02-36221; tickets to Mandalay Palace and combo tickets www.flymna.com; 81st St, 25/26; h 8.30am- to local temples and archaeology sites. 3pm), Mann Yadanarpon (www.airmyp.com), Myanmar Upperland (Map p238; % 02-65011; China Eastern (% 02-01172; http://en.ceair. www.myanmarupperland.com; 27th St, 71/72; com; 70th St, 34/35), Bangkok Airways (Map h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Arranges tours of the p242; % 02-36323; www.bangkokairways.com; city and surrounding region. 78th St, 33/34) and Air Asia (www.airasia.com). Nice Style (Map p242; % 02-64103; www. travelsmyanmarservices.com; 25th St, 82/83; You’ll find frequent daily flights to Yangon, Tachileik, Nyang U (Bagan) and Heho (Inle Lake), MANDALAY TRANSPORT CONNECTIONS OVERVIEW DESTINATION BUS TRAIN AIR BOAT Bagan 9hr, US$10 8hr, K4000-10,000 10-14hr, from US$40 Bhamo N/A US$60-68, 30min N/A Hsipaw 5-6hr, US$5 11hr, K5000-10,000 N/A US$58-134, 50min Inle Lake 11-13hr, US$12-25 N/A N/A US$95-108, 45min to Nay Pyi Taw 5hr, US$8 1hr, K10,000-20,000 Lashio +2hr taxi N/A Yangon 9-10hr, US$15-20 15½-16½hr, K4650- US$75 30min via N/A 18,000 Heho +1hr taxi US$100-120, 30min, twice weekly US$79-150, 90min

M a n da l ay & A ro u n d GMeAatnNtDdiaAnlLgaATYyhe r e & Away258 run. Buy tickets through hotels, agencies or and several flights a week to towns such as Lashio, online. Putao and Myitkyina. International connections MGRG (Map p242; % 011-202 734; www. link Mandalay to Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Kun- mgrgexpress.com; Strand Rd; to Bagan US$42) ming; while some of these flights are direct, others Bagan express ferries (October to March). Tick- connect through Yangon. ets from a booth at the jetty (Map p242). Nmai Hka (Map p242; % 02-700 072, 09 3311 BOAT 5588; www.nmaihka.com; A-15, 2nd fl, train Taking a boat on the Ayeyarwady River is one of station; to Bagan US$40) Shwei Keinnery Mandalay’s delights. Flits to Mingun (US$8, one ferries to Bagan (tourist season) and Bhamo hour) or all-day rides to Bagan (from US$40, 10 (summer) plus seasonal Tharlarwaddy to Min- hours) are most popular, though a return service gun and Inwa. Ticket office is 100yd east of the to Inwa is a great alternative. Prebooking one IWT ferry. Departures from Gawein Jetty. day ahead is usually fine for Bagan – bring plenty Tourist Boat Association (Mayan Chan Jetty; of drinking water. Map p242; Mingun US$8) Departs for Mingun at 9am from a jetty at the end of 26th St. No Boats to Mingun depart at 9am; boats to Ba- prebooking; just show up. gan leave around 7am. If you want a full cruise there are plenty of very IWT Ferries (Map p242; % 01-381 912, 02- upmarket options, notably with Paukan (p245), 36035; www.iwt.gov.mm/en; Gawein Jetty) Amara (p245) and Orient Express (www. In the past, operated slow boats to Katha and orient-express.com/web/rtm/voyages_in_ Bhamo, but these routes were closed at the myanmar.jsp) boats. Exact offerings change time of research. If they resume, expect the every year so consult the websites and expect to trip to take three/four days to Katha/Bhamo. spend thousands of dollars. Tickets can be purchased from the IWT Ticket Office (Map p242; 35th St). BUS & SHARED TAXI Malikha (Map p242; % 02-72279; www. Two of Mandalay’s three major bus stations are malikha-­rivercruises.com; to Bagan/Mandalau infuriatingly distant from the city centre and there US$47/33) Comfy tourist boats do the Bagan MANDALAY BUS & ROAD TRANSPORT OPTIONS Bus stations: TM (Thiri Mandalar bus station); PGMS (Pyi Gyi Myat Shin bus station); Main (Kwe Se Kan Highway bus station). Agents: AY (Aung Yedana); ChM (Cherry Myay); Duh (Du- htawadi); LM (Lwin Mann); MM (Meisho Mann); ShMT (Ko Htay/Shwe Mann Thu). For shared taxis have your hotel book by phone and get picked up at your door. Higher fares will net you air-con and (slightly) adjustable seats. DESTINATION TYPICAL FARE DURATION DEPARTURE TIME DEPARTURE TYPE Amarapura (K) 45min frequent POINT pick-up Bagan 500 6hr many 84th at 29th bus Hsipaw 8000-11,000 8hr 2pm Main shared taxi Inle Lake 5000 6-8hr 9am, 5pm & 10pm PGMS bus Kalaw 12,000-17,000 8hr use Taunggyi buses Main bus Kyaukse 12,000 4½hr 1pm Main bus Lashio 5000 11hr 6pm PGMS bus Nay Pyi Daw 7500 4hr frequent 7am-9pm PGMS bus Shwebo from 6000 3½hr hourly 8am-3pm Main bus Pyin Oo Lwin 2500 2hr hourly 6am-4pm TM shared taxi Pyin Oo Lwin 8000 2½hr 5am-5pm hotel pick-up Sagaing 2500 1hr around 3 per hour till 7pm 83rd at 28th pick-up Taunggyi 500 7-8hr 9am, 10pm, 11pm 84th at 30th bus Taungoo 10,000-13,000 7hr 9pm Main bus Yangon 8000 8hr frequent Main bus from 11,000 Main (standard) to 24,000 (air-con)

are proposals to move the main highway bus 259M a n da l ay & A ro u n d MGeaAtnNtDdiAanLlgAaAYyr o u n d station even further south. Thiri Mandalar bus service, saving potentially long trips to/from bus station (Map p242; 89th St, 21/22) is relatively stations at either end of your journey. central. Pyi Gyi Myat Shin bus station is 2 miles east of the centre and has buses for Hsipaw and TRAIN Lashio. Kwe Se Kan Highway bus station (also As the train station (30th St, 78/79) is relatively known as Chan Mya Shwe Pyi, or main bus station) central, rail travel has the advantage of saving is 5 miles south of the centre, and it can take 45 the long commute to an outlying bus station. minutes for the K3000/6000 motorbike/taxi ride from central Mandalay, even more by pick-up. 88 Getting Around Allow plenty of time once you’re there to find the right bus in the mayhem. TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Much of the one-hour drive into town from Manda- Prebooking bus tickets for longer-distance lay Airport is through fields and scrubland swaying routes (over four hours) is wise. Booking through with mango trees and palmyra palms and liberally backpacker hotels will usually incur a com- dotted with gilded pagodas. If you’re arriving in mission but that’s rarely more than the motor- Myanmar for the first time it’s a great first taste. bike-taxi fare you’d incur when buying your own. There are free shuttle buses for some hotel Academy (% 02-78699 02-78885; K25,300) guests. Otherwise, it’s taxi time! There’s a fixed provides a bus service connecting Bagan and rate of US$10/K12,000 for a private taxi, or Mandalay with Mrauk U. The bus departs daily at US$5/K4000 for a shared taxi. Cheaper guest- 4pm – no arrival time is given, but if the trip goes houses will order you an airport car for about the without a hitch (Ha!), you should get there at same price as a shared taxi, but big hotels ask around 1pm. Buses depart from Kwe Se Kan. for a fair bit more. Taxis on the street typically want double fare, as they’ll find it hard to get a Bus-company and ticket-agency contacts return ride. include Aung Yedana (Map p242; % 02-24850; 79th St, 27/28), Cherry Myay (Map p242; % 02- BICYCLE 73571; 27th St at 83rd St; air-con car/minivan Mandalay’s vast size can rapidly become over- per person from K6000; h 6.30am-4pm) and whelming, but the city is very flat, so if you’re Duhtawadi (Map p242; % 02-66073, 02-61938; not intimidated by the traffic, renting a bicycle 31st St, 81/82). or moped can be a great solution. Several rental agents in the central backpacker area charge Long-distance shared taxis, where available, around K2000/10,000 per day for bicycles/­ are worth considering as most offer door-to-door MANDALAY FERRY OPTIONS DESTINATION PRICE DURATION (HR) DEPARTURES BOAT Bagan US$42 10 7am daily Oct-Mar Nmai Kha, MGRG Bagan US$47 10 7am daily Oct-Mar then sporadic Malikha Bagan US$40 11 6am Mon & Fri IWT Hanthawaddy Bhamo* US$100-120 34 7am thrice weekly Jul-Sep IWT Inwa US$8 1 noon daily Oct-Mar multiple operators Mingun US$8 1 8.30am daily Oct-Mar multiple operators * Boats to Bhamo were not running at the time of research. MANDALAY TRAIN ROUTES Sample foreigner fares (from ordinary to sleeper class): DESTINATION PRICE (K) DURATION (HR) DEPARTURE Hsipaw 5000-10,000 11 4am Monywa 10,000-20,000 5¼ 2.30pm Myitkyina 15,000-20,000 20 10am, 1.30pm, 4pm, 4.45pm, 6.30pm Nyaung U (Bagan) 4000-10,000 8 9pm Pakkoku 4000-6000 11 6pm Yangon 4650-18,000 15½-16½ multiple departures

260 M a n da l ay & A ro u n d GMAerAtoNtuDinAndLgAMAYarnoduanlday above the cab in local script. Different coloured motorbikes including long-established Mr Jerry boards sometimes denote variant routings, but (Map p242; % 02-65312; 83rd St, 25/26; h8am- the entire system seems to get upended every 8pm) and Mr Bean (Map p242; % 02-31770; 83rd few months. If you’re willing to brave it, the bus St, 24/25). Several hotels rent bicycles too. Cy- fare is around K500. clists are advised to carry a head torch at night. To go further afield, expat-run Mandalay From 25th/83rd diagonally opposite Nylon Motorcycle (Map p242; % 09 44402 2182; Hotel (p248): www.mandalaymotorbike.com; 32nd St, 79/80; ¨¨၁ (1), ၅ (5), ၁၉ (19) via 78th St, south to the per day city bike from K10,000, trail bike from train station, east on 30th. 5 and 19 then head K40,000) and Myanmar Bike Rental (% 09 east on 19th while 1 heads north up 62nd. 4211 30276; www.myanmarbikerental.com; ¨¨၁၆ (16) goes to the base of Mandalay Hill; 59th St, 22/19; city bikes K5000-15,000, 200cc blue sign goes via the train station. K25,000, motorcyle K50,000) have city bikes From 84th St at 29th St: and trail bikes. Call ahead or shoot them an ¨¨၈ (8) passes Mahamuni Paya en route to email to set up your rental and plan your route. Amarapura. ¨¨၁ဝ (10) heads to the Kwe Se Kan Highway MOTORCYCLE & TAXI bus station. Motorcycle taxis lurk near hotels and on city corners. Expect to pay K1000 for a short hop, TRISHAW K1500 across the centre, and K10,000 for all- Traditionally the main form of city transport, ped- day hire within Mandalay (or K15,000 including al trishaws are now relatively rare except around Amarapura, Inwa and Sagaing); double these the markets. A K4000 return fare takes you from rates for a regular taxi. The following drivers the city centre to the base of Mandalay Hill; all- speak decent English. day hire from around K10,000. Give an extra tip, Aung-Aung (% 09 40264 8306) Friendly, because these guys work hard for the money. helpful driver. Ko Zaw (% 09 40251 2327; mandalay.city. AROUND MANDALAY [email protected]) Thoughtful, English-speaking motorcycle-taxi driver. For many visitors, the historic sites around Seven Diamond Express (Map p242; % 02- Mandalay trump anything in the city itself. 22365; 32nd St, 82/83) Local taxi service. Iconic attractions include U-Bein Bridge in Zin Mi (09 4315 9591; zinmehtunshinshin1987@ Amarapura, Sagaing’s temple-studded hills gmail.com) Daughter of Moustache Brother and horse-cart rides around the rural ruins comedian Lu Maw, Zimi is probably the only of Inwa. female motorcycle-taxi driver in Mandalay. Also puts together her own recommended tours. Entry to Inwa’s two main sites and Am- arapura’s Bagaya Kyaung are included in BUS & PICK-UP TRUCKS Mandalay’s K10,000 ‘combo’ ticket. A sepa- The public transport system uses pick-up trucks rate K3000 ticket for Mingun and Sagaing is that make regular lengthy stops, rarely leaving till jammed full. Route numbers are displayed ELEPHANT DANCING IN KYAUKSE Bagan was not the only place to benefit from King Anawrahta’s remarkable 11th-century building spree. According to legend, one of Anawrahta’s relic-carrying elephants took a liking to Webu Hill, above today’s Kyaukse. Anawrahta took that as a sign to found a city at its base, starting with an irrigation system created using a stone dam (kyauk se). Nearly a millennium later, the attractive small town (around 40 miles south of Mandalay) remains elephant mad. Naive elephant masks and toys are sold at numerous kiosks, and white elephant statues guard the gigantic golden Buddha halfway up Webu Hill’s north slope. A nationally famous elephant dance competition forms the centrepiece of Kyaukse’s main festival. The dancing ‘elephants’ are actually two humans in wonderfully idiosyncratic costumes. The competition is held one day before Thadingyut full moon (October), but for a day or two beforehand you might see ‘elephants’ practising their prancing around town. Kyaukse is about 22 miles south of Mandalay on Hwy 1. Pick-up trucks run from 84th St at 29th St in Mandalay (front/back K1000/500); depending on the passenger situation, it can take up to two hours to get there. You can hire a taxi from Mandalay for around K20,000 to K30,000; expect some bargaining.

261 TA MOKE SHWE GU GYI M a n da l ay & A ro u n d AS imrgoahurtnaspd uMraan d a l ay The enormous temple complex of Ta Moke Shwe Gu Gyi (တမုတ္ေရဂႊ ၾူ ကးီ ; GPS 21.644556, 96.055727; h8am-6.30pm) F is one of the finest archaeological sites in the country outside Bagan or Mrauk-U, but its remoteness and lack of English signage on-site make a visit challenging. Still, even without interpretive help, this is a fascinating spot, anchored by a two-storey temple marked by sturdy brickwork and magnificent stucco reliefs. Some of the latter include scenes from the life of the Buddha, as well as depictions of animals, plants and mythological beings. The complex consists of eight buildings that date back as far as the 8th century, with the ‘youngest’ constructed in the 14th century. Be on the lookout for an ‘encased’ Buddha image: three concentric Buddha statues arranged like Russian dolls around each other. There are a lot of other impressive artworks, but it’s difficult to appreciate without interpre- tive signs. If you don’t mind some academic language, download the paper ‘Ta Mok Shwe- gu-gyi Temple: Local Art in Upper Myanmar 11th–17th Centuries’, by Elizabeth Moore, Win Maung and Htwe Htwe Win, available for free online, to learn more about the site. It can be a trick getting here. The ruins are decidedly off the beaten path, and there was no pick-up-truck path here at the time of research. The ruins are about 11km west of Kyaukse, an hour’s drive south of Mandalay. From there you’ll want to take the first road outside the northern city entrance that leads west to the Yangon–Mandalay Hwy. Be on the lookout for signs (in Burmese and English) for Ta Moke Shwe Gu Gyi, located roughly halfway between Kyaukse and the highway. Bargain hard with a taxi driver, and expect to pay at least K20,000 for a there-and-back excursion. patchily enforced. No one checks for tickets north to Mandalay, which was to become the at the other sites. new capital according to a Buddhist prophecy. These days leafy Amarapura is essentially a A popular option is to combine Amarapu- spread-out suburb of Mandalay, attractively ra, Sagaing and Inwa into a full-day trip by set on a wide, shallow lake, named for an motorcycle taxi (K20,000) or taxi (around ogre who supposedly came looking for the K50,000). For most taxi drivers, ‘Inwa’ Buddha here. means dropping you at the Myitnge ferry, as- suming you’ll cross then tour by horse cart. The wide roads and twisting alleyways However, Myanmar Upperland (p257) offers make Amarapura feel less aggressively mod- an all-day tour by air-con minibus (US$28 ern than Mandalay, and killing a day here is per person, hotel pick-up 8am) that includes a pleasant undertaking. The main attraction driving into and around Inwa plus sunset at is an iconic wooden footbridge that cross- U-Bein Bridge, lunch, water and several in- es the lake. Several other minor sights are teresting workshop visits. widely scattered – you’ll need a bike or taxi to see them all. Motorbike taxis typically charge around K2000 extra to drive around the Inwa ruins 1 Sights (if you insist). Add another K2000 to see Pa- leik en route, and K5000 to include Mingun. oU-Bein Bridge BRIDGE Beware that doing the whole lot in one long day will feel very rushed. Ideally, make two (ဥးီ ပနိ တ္ ံတား) F The world’s longest or three day trips. teak footbridge gently curves 1300yd across shallow Taungthaman Lake, creating one of Myanmar’s most photographed sites. In dry season it feels surreally high and mostly Amarapura အမရပူရ crosses seasonal vegetable gardens. But after POP C 35,000 / % 02 the summer rains, the area becomes a big lake Myanmar’s penultimate royal capital, Am- and water laps just below the floor planks. arapura (amu-ra-pu-ra) means ‘City of Im- mortality’, though its period of prominence Just a few of the 1086 poles on which it stands have been replaced by concrete supports. lasted less than 70 years (from 1783). In 1857 A great time to visit the bridge is just af- King Mindon began dismantling most of the palace buildings, shipping them 7 miles ter sunrise when hundreds of villagers and monks commute back and forth across it.

262 Amarapura e# 0 1 km AB 0 0.5 miles Mahamuni Paya (2.5mi); D Central Mandalay (5mi) 2 #â C # Wok D #ä 666Foundry Palace Minawon St Ruins 1 Military Military 1 Area Area 666667 8 Ú# #æ Kanthitan St 78th StSSaghaiwneg-YiMnanmdaalRady Rd Salain D Kaingba St M a n da l ay & A ro u n d SA imrgoahurtnaspd uMraan d a l ay 666ú#2 2 10 Taungthaman 3 Lake D 9 æ# 4 Ú# 66#£ Amarapura Ú# 6 Train Station 5 3 Sagaing 3 (4.3mi) #æ #f Boatmen Ú# 1 U-Bein Yadanabon Bridge University #æ ABC Amarapura a substantial ancient library of Pali scripts, plus a museum of 19th-century buddha im- æ Top Sights ages, but few travellers are greatly impressed. 1 U-Bein Bridge.......................................B3 Nearby there are several distinctive tobacco drying barns, and, further east, the hefty ru- æ Sights ins of two former palace buildings. 2 Bagaya Kyaung .................................... B1 3 Kyauktawgyi Paya ...............................C3 Kyauktawgyi Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE 4 Kyo Aung Sanda ..................................B3 5 Lin Zin Kone Cemetery........................A3 (ေက်ာကေ္ တာၾ္ ကးီ ဘရု ား; h8am-7pm) F 6 Maha Ganayon Kyaung .......................B3 Around 200yd beyond the eastern end of 7 Pahtodawgyi ........................................ B1 U-Bein Bridge, this 1847 pagoda, built by 8 Shwe Linmin Paya ............................... C1 Pagan Min, was supposedly modelled on the 9 Shwe Sin Tai.........................................A3 larger Ananda Pahto at Bagan, but its five- tiered roof makes it look more like a Tibetan/­ ú Eating Nepali temple. While the paya doesn’t have 10 Renaissance Cafe ................................B2 the perfectly vaulted roofs or the finer dec- orations of the original, it does have some fairly well-preserved life-scene frescoes in The light is often best around an hour be- the four approaches. fore sunset, but by then there will be a lot of tourists and trinket sellers. However, while Werawsana Jade Pagoda BUDDHIST PAGODA the bridge gets very busy, it rarely feels like a (Hsin Ywa hill, Myinhmu Village; h24hr) F commercial gauntlet. Werawsana is reputedly the world’s first pagoda built entirely out of jade. It’s a sight Bagaya Kyaung MUSEUM to behold in the evening, when it radiates a soft green glow that’s almost otherworldly (ဗားကရာေက်ာငး္ ; admission by combo ticket; (seriously, it looks like a piece of Buddhist h8am-6.30pm) If you want to squeeze full val- kryptonite). But it is also a carnival scene – ue out of your Mandalay ‘combo’ ticket, head hawkers, teenagers and party people camp to this 1996 concrete-pillared reconstruction out here, which gives this religious site a of an early-19th-century monastery. It has surprisingly raucous feel. The Jade Pagoda plenty of flying wooden filigree roof work,

5 Eating 263 stands outside Amarapura, about 9 miles to Near either end of U-Bein Bridge there are the south. eateries and food stalls where you can buy noodles, tea and roasted crab. Maha Ganayon Kyaung BUDDHIST MONASTERY (မဟာဂႏာၶ ရေံု က်ာငး္ ; h7am-evening) F Just Renaissance Cafe BURMESE, THAI $$ west of U-Bein Bridge, this sprawling monas- (3 Salain; set meals K7500-13,000; a) Partly tery is a pleasantly meditative place for most a showcase for the company’s attractive of the day. But you may want to avoid the modern rattan furniture and tableware, this monastery at about 11am, when busloads of friendly restaurant offers a variety of multi- tourists arrive to gawp while the whole mon- dish Thai, Burmese or European meals; your astery sits down to eat, their silence pierced guide or driver eats for free, which is nice, as by the endless rattle of camera shutters. Kyo Aung Sanda BUDDHIST MONASTERY the food is good but a bit overpriced. M a n da l ay & A ro u n d AIEnarwtoiaunn(gAdvMa)a n d a l ay (ၾကဳိ ေအာငစ္ ႏာၵ ; hsunrise-sunset) F Little 88 Getting There & Around visited, this curious latter-day monastery features a mini ‘Golden Rock’, a prayer hall Crammed-full pick-up trucks leave from 84th St full of monk-posture statues and several at 29th St in Mandalay (K500, 45 minutes) and surreal Alice in Wonderland–style staring pass along the main Sagaing road. For U-Bein Tweedledum and Owl figures. Bridge, get off just after it crosses the railway and walk east or take a horse cart (K2000). Shwe Linmin Paya NOTABLE BUILDING A return taxi from Mandalay with an added (ေရႊလမင္းဘရု ား; Kanthitan St; hsunrise-sunset) 90 minutes of sightseeing should run around F This attractive 19th-century square- K10,000, or K7000 on a motorbike. based stupa has a gold spire and white/ice- blue lower sections from a 2006 makeover. Boatmen can ferry folks across the water if It’s set in a nursery of flowering shrubs be- you’re not into crossing the U-Bein Bridge on foot. side the lake road. Pahtodawgyi BUDDHIST STUPA Inwa (Ava) အင္းဝ Since 1364, Inwa has taken four turns as (ပထု းုိ ေတာ္ၾကးီ ; hsunrise-sunset) F This royal capital of the Burmese people. Indeed, vast bell-shaped pagoda, erected by King upper Burma was often referred to as the Bagyidaw in 1820, is the tallest structure for miles around (185ft). Men only are allowed ‘Kingdom of Ava’, even well after the royal court abandoned Inwa for Amarapura in to climb halfway to the upper terrace to ap- 1841. Despite its rich history, the site today preciate views over the plethora of hti (stupa pinnacles) glittering through Amarapura’s is a remarkably rural backwater sparsely dotted with ruins, monastic buildings and lush foliage. stupas. It’s a world away from the city bustle Shwe Sin Tai WORKSHOP of Mandalay, which is a big part of its charm. (h7am-6pm) F Hand-worked silk-w­ eaving Many visitors like to explore by horse cart, workshop that welcomes visitors without sales pressure. and while this can be charming, cycling al- lows more flexibility, village stops and hu- man interactions. Lin Zin Kone Cemetery CEMETERY The Mandalay ‘combo ticket’ is theoret- (လငဇ္ ငး္ ကနု း္ ) When Inwa-based King Hsin- ically required to visit Inwa but it’s only byushin sacked Ayuthaya in today’s Thai- land, he reputedly returned with thousands checked if you enter Bagaya Kyaung or Maha Aungmye Bonzan. of prisoners including the Ayuthayan King Udombhara who became a local monk. When 1 Sights Udombhara died nearly 30 years later, was buried in a grand tomb whose location has You’ll find persistent drinks vendors and long been disputed. In 2013 archaeologists postcard peddlers at the major sites. But claimed ‘with 90% certainty’ to have identi- much of Inwa’s charm is in simply finding fied the grave in Lin Zin Kone Cemetery. your own viewpoint or village encounter It’s currently just a pile of old bricks back- amid the pagodas. ing onto rubbish-strewn waste ground, and oBagaya Kyaung MONASTERY Thai-backed efforts to restore it have been stalled by diplomatic hectoring between My- (ဗားကရာေက်ာငး္ ; combo ticket; hsunrise-­ sunset) This lovely 1834 teak monastery is In- anmar and Thailand. wa’s most memorable individual attraction.

264 by its ultra-thick walls and the bats flitting It’s supported on 267 teak posts, the largest through its empty undercroft. Directly east, 60ft high and 9ft in circumference, creating forming a fine background, is Htilaingshin a cool and dark prayer hall that feels gen- Paya, an attractive array of gilded stupas, uinely aged. Stained timbers are inscribed some dating to the Bagan period. with repeating peacock and lotus-flower motifs. Despite the constant flow of visitors, Behind, near the crumbling former monks’ this remains a living monastery with globes residence, a footpath leads to seasonally hung above the little school section to assist flooded river gardens and views to Sagaing. in the novices’ geography lessons. Beware of protruding floorboard nails. Shwezigon Paya BUDDHIST SITE (ေရစႊ ည္းခုဘံ ရု ား) This golden stupa rises photogenically above the overgrown south- Daw Gyan BUDDHIST PAGODA M a n da l ay & A ro u n d AISnirgwohautn(sAdvMa)a n d a l ay (hsunrise-sunset) F Within the green west corner of Inwa’s city walls. The best patchwork of paddies that forms a quilt over view is from across the moat, especially in Inwa, a small temple perches on a tiny arti- September when the water level is high. The ficial island. This is Daw Gyan, a collection main access is from the northwestern city of several rust-red brick stupas arranged un- gate, but there is also a small pathway at the der enormous shade trees. On-site, a small back of the associated monastery, allowing flooded arcade leads to a buddha seated you to continue east by bicycle or motorbike. above the reflective waters. The entire place is supremely serene, especially given the ver- Yedanasimi Paya RUINS dant pastoral backdrop. This small but photogenic ensemble brings together three sitting buddhas and a hand- ful of old brick stupas shaded by a giant Maha Aungmye Bonzan MONASTERY (မဟာေအာငေ္ ျမဘစုံ ;ံ hsunrise-sunset) F flame tree. Built, unusually, of stucco-covered brick, this 1822 royal monastery temple is a rare Nanmyin TOWER survivor from the Ava era. The faded, stur- (အငး္ ဝနနး္ ျမင့္ေမ်ွ ာစ္ င)္ F All that re- mains of King Bagyidaw’s palace complex is dy structure looks very attractive in cleverly this 90ft ‘leaning tower of Inwa’, shattered taken photographs, but in the harsh midday sun the main attraction is the cool afforded but patched up and still standing after the ALTERNATIVE INWA Get a little off the beaten track at some of Inwa’s minor sights and viewpoints. ¨¨In dry season you can visit a row of disintegrating brick stupas west of Bagaya Kyaung, leading towards a mysterious array of overgrown temple ruins. ¨¨Don’t miss the view of the Shwezigon Paya golden stupa across the moat from near the overpriced two-hall Archaeological Museum (အငး္ ဝေရးွ ေဟာင္းသုေတသနျပတကုိ ;္ foreigner K5000; h 9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun). ¨¨Enjoy tree-framed views of several small pagodas from the rough track that gives a false short cut between gigantic Nogatataphu Paya (Lawkatharupha Paya) and the Sagaing Ferry jetty. ¨¨The short restored sections of city wall near the three whitewashed pagodas of Shwe Myauk Taung are best viewed across the moat looking north. ¨¨There are great Ayeyarwady River views from the square inner bastions of the 1874 Sinkyone Fortress, plus you’ll find numerous stupas down weather-damaged lanes directly south. ¨¨Fascinating Hantharwady Village, around a mile south of the moat, has countless stupas including the large, gilt, bell-shaped Sandamuni Paya (စႏၵမုနဘိ ုရား, Maha Myamuni) and the four-storey stub of the once huge Le-htat-gyi Paya (ေလးထပ္ႀကီးဘုရား), now dangerously fissured by earthquakes. The charmingly uncommercial lacquerware company, Myanma Nwe Sin (h roughly 8am-5pm), makes monks’ alms bowls in the backstreets.

265 Inwa e# 0 500 m A 0 0.25 miles Sinkyone Fortress (350m); BCD 1 Jetty (350m) River Boat to Ayeyarwady DMonks' æ# 8 Sagaing f# Residence Horse-Cart 2 Ticket â# æ# 3 Waiting Area Inwa Lanzou 1 Booth # æ# # Junction D 14 6 #úú#13 (700m); Trishaws to Inwa Jetty (750m); #á 7 Ava Bridge (0.6mi) 12 ä# 666Ú#11 Ú# 10 M a n da l ay & A ro u n d IEAnarwtoiaunn(gAdv&MaD)arni nd akilnagy â# 4 Ú# 2 2 D æ# 1 Bagaya Kyaung 666StupaRRouwinosfÚ# 3 9 Paleik 3 A æ# 5 æ# (6.8mi) D BC Inwa 8 Nogatataphu Paya ................................. A1 9 Sandamuni Paya ....................................C3 æ Top Sights 10 Shwe Myauk Taung................................C2 1 Bagaya Kyaung ...................................... A2 11 Shwezigon Paya .....................................B2 12 Yedanasimi Paya.................................... A1 æ Sights ú Eating 2 Daw Gyan ............................................... B2 13 Ave Maria ................................................ D1 3 Htilaingshin Paya ....................................C1 14 Small River Restaurant.......................... D1 4 Inwa Archaeological Museum .............. B2 5 Le-htat-gyi Paya .................................... B3 6 Maha Aungmye Bonzan .........................C1 7 Nanmyin ..................................................C1 1838 earthquake. The watchtower is nei- Ave Maria CHINESE, BURMESE $ ther beautiful nor especially high, but wide (%09-26328; mains K2000-4500; h8.30am- views from the top are great for getting your 6pm) Follow the signs to this slightly hidden bearings amid the widely scattered sights; at garden restaurant with attractive river views least if it’s open. It was closed for safety at and good curry dishes. the time of research due to damaged timber. Small River Restaurant INTERNATIONAL $$ (%09 9100 1921; mains K3500-7000; h8am- Htilaingshin Paya PAGODA 6pm; v) A popular tourist retreat near Inwa (ထးီ လငႈိ ရ္ ငွ ဘ္ ုရား) This whitewashed pagoda jetty, Small River has tables dotted through- complex, topped with the occasional gold- leafed stupa, dates back to the Bagan period. out a tree-shaded garden backing on to a modest colonial-era wooden house (not part 5 Eating & Drinking of the restaurant). It has some nice vegetar- ian options. There are basic local tea shops at Maha Aungmye Bonzan and Nogatataphu, plus at 88 Getting There & Away each of the villages and at the main (east- ern) jetty, where you’ll find some appealing Sagaing–Mandalay pick-ups can drop you at tourist-­friendly options. Inwa Lanzou junction just west of Ava Bridge.

266 M a n da l ay & A ro u n d SGAeartgotauiinndg MAarnoduanlday lay’s constant thrum. No individual pagoda From there it’s a 15-minute walk or a 10-minute stands out as a particular must-see, but tak- trishaw (Inwa Lanzou Junction; K200) ride to en together the whole scene is enthralling. the Myitnge river crossing. A covered wooden A highlight is walking the sometimes-steep longboat shuttles across to Inwa’s eastern jetty covered stairways that lead past monaster- (K800, with bicycle/motorbike K1000/1500 ies and nunneries to viewpoints from which return, two minutes) around every 15 minutes you can survey the river and an undulating according to demand, last at 6pm. landscape of emerald hills and stupas. Unless you specify otherwise, most taxis and motorbike taxis will drop you at the Myitnge History Jetty. However, motorbikes can drive right into Inwa via two possible routes off the airport Named for the trees hanging over the river, highway. One route starts directly west of the Sagaing became the capital of an independ- big river bridge at milepost 357.8, to the south- ent Shan kingdom around 1315. The fall of west of Amarapura. An alternative access lane Bagan had thrown central Myanmar into starts across the roundabout from the Paleik chaos and though Pinya had emerged as road junction at milepost 357. From the latter, the new regional capital, its ruler’s son set head north then turn right at the first T-junction, up Sagaing as a rival power centre. Its first sidestepping the broken bridge on a bike-wide period of importance lasted around half track and replacement pontoon. Both of these a century: in 1364 the founder’s grandson, routes wind through stupa-speckled Hanthar- Thado Minbya, moved the capital to Inwa. wady Village. From 1760 Sagaing enjoyed just four more years as capital, but the town’s significance BOAT from then on became more spiritual than Nmai Kha runs a tourist-season ferry direct from political. Today it is home to thousands of Gawein Jetty (US$8 return, no extra charge for monks and nuns, and is a place where many bicycles) leaving Mandalay at 12.30pm (one Myanmar Buddhists go to meditate when hour) and returning from Sinkyone Fortress at stressed. 4pm (two hours). While giving only a limited time in situ, it is a great way of getting to/from Inwa 1 Sights by bicycle. The return journey passes Sagaing’s golden stupas at sunset. To enter Sagaing and Mingun, you must technically buy a K3000 combo ticket, sold 88 Getting Around at many sights or by inspectors. In Mingun, collection of this ticket seems rarely en- There are no taxis or motorbike taxis (unless you forced. We’ve heard that officials in Sagaing hire your own from Mandalay). are more demanding, but we were never asked for a ticket here either. The most popular way to visit Inwa is by horse cart (K9000). Dozens of carts wait at Inwa’s 1 Sagaing Hill & Around eastern jetty. Horse-cart tours are a major part of the Inwa experience – carriages avoid noise Stupa-topped hillocks coalesce into Sagaing pollution and create picturesque scenes along Hill, a long tree-dappled north–south ridge the tree-lined tracks. However, cart drivers that starts around 1½ miles north of the typically stick to a fixed route, and some of their market area. A narrow, driveable lane winds ponies look to be in sad condition. Whether this up or you can take the 350-step stairway is due to slow business or the actions of the from One Lion Gate. horse-cart driver is tough to determine – most cart drivers are friendly and honest, but this oSoon U Pon isn’t a universal standard. Nya Shin Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE Bringing your own bicycle or motorbike from Mandalay will allow you to explore thoroughly. Walking is possible, but less efficient. (ဆမြ း္ ဥးီ ပညု ရငွ ဘ္ ရု ား; camerafeeK300; hsunrise-­ sunset) This ‘early offering shrine’ is the most Sagaing စစ္ကိုင္း important of the temples on Sagaing Hill’s POP C 70,000 / % 072 southern crown and the first you’ll come to A crest of green hills studded with white on climbing the One Lion stairway. Notice and gold pagodas marks the ‘skyline’ of Sagaing, a religious pilgrimage centre that the bronze frogs that serve as a collection box in the rather gaudy Buddha hall – resembles Bagan with elevation. This pretty, the hill was originally thought to resemble friendly town is a major monastic centre and a somewhat serene escape from Manda- a giant toad, a superstitious blessing which inspired Sagaing’s development in the 14th

267 century. The central 97ft-high gilded stupa millennia before, arriving to a curious com- was originally conceived in 1312. munion with the Buddha, seven hermits and a flower-bearing orangutan. Burmese gene- Legends claim that it magically appeared alogy is never boring. overnight, built by the local king’s faithful minister Pon Nya in a superhuman flurry of oTilawkaguru BUDDHIST TEMPLE activity inspired by a magical Buddha relic that he’d found in a betel-nut box. The myth (တေိ လာကဂရု ;ု h9.30am-4.30pm) F At fancifully claims that Pon Nya himself was the foot of the great temple-studded hills of supernatural parentage, his father hav- of Sagaing, you’ll find this little-visited cave ing ‘flown’ to Sagaing from the Himalayas monastery. Supposedly built around the Sagaing e# 0 1 km A M a n da l ay & A ro u n d AS iarggohautinsndg M a n d a l ay0 0.5 miles Kaunghmudaw BC D Paya (2.5mi); w Road up Hoetaypadar St D Ayeyarwady River DMingun Shwebo (56mi);D 66Sagaing Hill (11mi) #æ Monywa (68mi) (0.9mi) Sagaing 1 11 #æ 8 Soon U 1 Hill 1 Pon Nya #Ú Shin Paya Ú# 2 #Ú 10 Tilawkaguru 66#Shwezigon # Lejunman Aung Paya One Lion #Ú Gate w Monasteries 2 9 Ú# 6 2 Dha Tmhmaa St #æ AunSgtaStauneá# Myo Thit St Thacheiselik #Ú 4 #â 3 Market 3 7 44 4 4 4 44 4 4Moe Zar Rd 12 ÿ# Ú# 444444444Mandalay Rd Zeya St Htuparyon StMinn St Sagaing Bridge 4 (main road route) Say Yon Gyi St WAyaeddMyySat # Fort 4444444444444444444 Colonial 5 #Ú dR Houses Strand #æ 3 Ava Bridge 13 #û f# Boats (road & rail) to Inwa 44A 444B 444C 4 D Sagaing æ Top Sights 8 Sitagu Buddhist Academy..................... C1 1 Soon U Pon Nya Shin Paya ....................C1 9 Thakya Dita Nunnery .............................C2 2 Tilawkaguru.............................................C1 10 U Min Thonze Caves .............................. D1 11 Ubamin Silverware................................. A1 æ Sights ÿ Sleeping 3 Ava Bridge.............................................. C4 12 Shwe Pyne Sone.....................................B3 4 Buddha Museum ................................... C3 û Drinking & Nightlife 5 Htuparyon Paya..................................... B4 13 Minsuyek.................................................B4 6 Shin Pin Nan Kain .................................. D2 7 Shwe-kyet-kya ....................................... D3

268 part of a pair with the bigger Shwe-kyet-yet 1670s, Tilawkaguru is filled with some of the on a gentle rise across the road. The name, most impressive preserved cave paintings in meaning Golden Fowl’s Run, relates to curi- the country. Vivid frescoes depict the life (and ous legends from one of Buddha’s supposed past lives) of the Buddha, animals, warriors, past lives…as a chicken. battles, merchants, courtesans, kings, peas- ants and vivid menageries of mythological Htuparyon Paya BUDDHIST STUPA creatures. Finding the keyholder can be chal- lenging, but a good bet is the Buddha Muse- (ထူပါရဘံု ရု ား) F This gigantic stupa, orig- um (ဗဒု ျၶ ပတကုိ ;္ K5000; h9.30am-4.30pm). inally built in 1444, is unusual for having While visiting is free, it’s nice to give the three circular storeys each incorporating keyholder a few thousand kyats as a tip. arched niches. Across the street, a garden of garish statues includes a particularly fear- some red cobra. M a n da l ay & A ro u n d AS laregoeaupininndggM&a nEdatailnagy Sitagu Buddhist Academy UNIVERSITY (သတီ ဂကူ မာၻ ဗ့ ဒု တၶ ကသၠ လုိ ;္ h24hr) F Set Ava Bridge BRIDGE up in 1994 to educate the brightest young monks, this academy is a major intellectual Linking Sagaing and Amarapura are two parallel bridges, each with multiple met- centre for Theravada Buddhism. The centre- al-framed spans. The 16-span 1934 Ava piece is a Sanchi-style hemispherical stupa, gilded and embossed with dharma-wheel Bridge was partly demolished in 1942 to deny passage to advancing WWII Japanese patterns. In the surrounding arcade are pho- troops. It wasn’t repaired until 1954. The big tos of Asia’s great Buddhist sites, often shown as holiday-style snaps featuring the universi- new Sagaing Bridge was completed in 2005. ty’s founder-monk U-Nyan Nate Tara. 1 Northwest of Centre You can walk around the campus any- time, but it would be odd to visit at night, after the monks turn in (around 8pm). Kaunghmudaw Paya BUDDHIST STUPA (ေကာငး္ မႈေတာဘ္ ရု ား; Monywa Hwy; hsunrise-­ sunset) F Five miles northwest of central Shin Pin Nan Kain BUDDHIST PAGODA Sagaing, Kaunghmudaw Paya is a vast gild- (ရွင္ပင္နနက္ ငို ;္ h8am-7pm) F Shin Pin ed pudding of a stupa rising 150ft high. It Nan Kain’s brass-clad stupa sits on a hilltop that’s lower than Sagaing Hill but has even was built in 1636 to commemorate Inwa’s re-establishment as the royal capital. Ac- better panoramas. cording to local tradition, the king agonised U Min Thonze Caves BUDDHIST SITE interminably over how to shape the stupa. (ဥမင္သံုးဆယ;္ hsunrise-sunset) F Around His queen, tired of hubby’s indecisiveness, a 10-minute walk north of Pon Nya Shin ripped open her blouse and, pointing to her (p266), U Min Thonze Caves (literally ‘30 Caves’) is famed for its crescent-shaped col- breast, said: ‘Make it like this!’ Less romantic scholars claim it was ac- onnade of 45 buddha images. tually modelled after the vast Suvarnama- Thakya Dita Nunnery NOTABLE BUILDING li Mahaceti (Ruwanwelisaya) stupa in Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka. Kaunghmudaw is (သကက္ ်ဒပီ သလီ ရွငေ္ က်ာင္း) This modern distantly visible from Sagaing Hill and easy nunnery has a 16ft, 6in, gilded woven-cane buddha figure in an air-conditioned glass to spot as you drive past en route to Mony- wa. The surrounding area has many other chamber. stupas and is well known for silversmiths. 1 Town Centre Ubamin Silverware WORKSHOP & Ayeyarwady River (%072-21304, 09 203 1564; Monywa Hwy) F Behind their shop (2 miles northeast of The flat market area has little charm but fur- Sagaing market), Ubamin’s artisans ham- ther south it’s pleasant to cycle along Strand mer, tap and polish remarkable detail into Rd with a few old colonial-era buildings silver pots, repoussage vases and animal lining its north side and views across to figures. Fascinating, and no sales pressure. Inwa from the Ayeyarwady riverfront. 4 Sleeping & Eating Shwe-kyet-kya BUDDHIST STUPA There are some cheap Burmese restaurants (ေရႊက်ကက္ ်; hsunrise-sunset) F One of and teahouses strung along Mandalay Rd the best places from which to appreciate and Strand Rd; none stand out as particu- Sagaing is from across the river at this lit- larly stellar, but they’re all decent value. tle bluff with a cascade of small stupas. It’s

Shwe Pyne Sone HOTEL $$ Mingun e# 0 269 (%072-21384, 072-21942; shwepyaesonehotel. A 0 Ú# 2 200 m [email protected]; 20 Aoe Tan Lay Rd; r US$25-50; 1 0.1 miles B aW) It has basic, clean rooms arranged around generously spacious common sit- ting areas on each landing. The wi-fi can be unreliable. Bicycle/motorbike rental costs 1 around K4000/10,000 per day. 6 Drinking & Nightlife æ# Minsuyek BEER STATION 3 (Strand Rd; draught beer K800; h8am-9pm) It’s f# BDoryatSJeeatstoyn– scruffy, but this stilted riverside beer station M a n da l ay & A ro u n d MADri noi ngukuninnd gM&a nNidgahl tayl ife has great views towards Inwa. 2 4 Ú# # #ä 1 Ticket Ayeyarwady River2 88 Getting There & Away Booth Pick-ups from Mandalay (K500, one hour) drop 6 off passengers in the market area, but return from outside Aye Cherry Restaurant by the Ava #ú Bridge’s south slip road. æ# If the river is behaving, longboats (Strand Rd; per person/boat K400) will shuttle you across 5 to Inwa from the end of Zeya St. Charter one or be prepared to wait hours. 3 Boat Jetty – 3 A Wet Season f# #ñ B Mingun မင္းကြန္း Mingun % 072 æ Sights Home to several unique sites – as well as the 1 Chinthe Ruins.......................................B2 footer foundations for what would have been 2 Hsinbyume Paya.................................. A1 the largest temple and mythological lions’ 3 Mingun Bell ..........................................A2 butts in the world – Mingun is a compact 4 Mingun Paya ........................................A2 riverside village that makes a popular half- 5 Pondaw Paya .......................................B3 day excursion from Mandalay. The journey is part of the attraction, whether puttering ú Eating up the wide Ayeyarwady or rollercoastering 6 Point .....................................................B2 along a rural lane from Sagaing. A Sagaing–Mingun fee (K3000) is half-heartedly collected on the east side of Mingun Paya. In peak season this might be Mingun Paya BUDDHIST STUPA checked at the Mingun Bell, but we weren’t (မငး္ ကြန္းဘရု ား) F Started in 1790, Min- gun Paya (or Pahtodawgyi) would have asked for it. been the world’s biggest stupa had it been From November to February little Min- gun can feel overloaded with visitors (espe- finished. In fact, work stopped when King Bodawpaya died in 1819. That left only the cially before 1pm, when most tourist boats bottom third complete. But the result is still return to Mandalay). But drinks sellers and oil-painting vendors are easily avoided a huge structure – a roughly 240ft cube on a 460ft lower terrace. It is often described by walking behind the monuments on the as the world’s largest pile of bricks. There’s dusty paths to the west. Views from these paths are most attractive in the afternoon a steep staircase to the top where you can enjoy amazing views of the countryside. when sunlight illuminates the west-facing For added drama, there are several side of Mingun Paya. deep cracks caused by the massive 1838 1 Sights earthquake. While there are no real opening hours for Mingun Bell HISTORIC SITE the pagodas, you definitely don’t want to at- tempt the climb up Mingun Paya in the dark. (မင္းကြန္းေခါငး္ ေလာငး္ ) F In 1808 Bodaw- paya continued his biggest-is-best obsession

270 Another option is taking a bicycle on the boat by commissioning a bronze bell weighing then riding down to Sagaing (roughly two hours). 55,555 viss (90 tonnes). It’s 13ft high and There are no major hills en route but there more than 16ft across at the lip and was the are plenty of undulations that can be a little world’s biggest ringable bell for many dec- testing for rental bikes without gears. Sagaing–­ ades, albeit now surpassed by the giant bell Mandalay pick-ups will transport you and your of Pingdingshan, China. You can duck be- bike back to Mandalay for K3000 or less. neath and stand within the bell while some helpful bystander gives it a good thump. Hsinbyume Paya BUDDHIST STUPA Paleik ပလိပ္ (ဆငျ္ ဖဴမယဘ္ ုရား) F Built in 1816, pos- The main reason to come to Paleik, about sibly using materials pilfered from Mingun Paya (p269), this unusual pagoda rises in 12 miles south of Mandalay, is to view its Snake Pagoda (Yadana Labamuni Hsu-Taung- M a n da l ay & A ro u n d APE artloieuninkgd M a n d a l ay seven wavy, whitewashed terraces repre- Pye; h7am-9pm) F. This modest and senting the seven mountain ranges around Mt Meru – the mountain at the centre of the rather kitschy attraction earned its name from its three resident giant pythons. They Buddhist universe. appeared from the nearby forest in 1974 Chinthe Ruins RUINS and never left. Much of the statuary repli- cates a scene from the Buddha’s life when he (ခ်ငသ္ ဲ) Across the road from Mingun Paya sought shelter from the rain under the hood lie two house-sized brick-and-stucco ruins. These are just the haunches of what would of a naga (a cobra-like water dragon), but for many, the main attraction is the pythons’ have been truly gigantic chinthe (the pago- 11am daily washing and feeding ceremony. da’s half-lion, half-dragon guardian deities). Off-season it’s delightfully low-key, at- tracting a handful of local families. But the Pondaw Paya NOTABLE BUILDING whole atmosphere changes dramatically (ပေုံ တာ္ဘုရား) F To see what Mingun when, as commonly occurs in peak season, Paya (p269) would have looked like had it ever been completed, have a quick look at a tourist bus arrives. diminutive Pondaw Paya, 200yd south at the Less than a five-minute walk south of end of the tourist strip. the snake pagoda is Paleik’s ‘mini-Bagan’, an almost entirely overlooked collection of 5 Eating more than 300 closely packed stupas in varying states of repair. Many date from the There are half a dozen snack shacks around Konbaung period. the Mingun Paya entrance. Point (mains K2000-5000), near the ferry jetty, has a riv- 88 Getting There & Away er view and serves draught Spirulina beer (K700). Riding a motorbike along the busy Mandalay– Yangon road is an unpleasant chore, mitigated 88 Getting There & Away slightly by a brief stop at the Golden Tooth Pa- goda (ေရႊသြားဘုရား; h sunrise-sunset). There Mingun is a pleasant 35-minute drive from are contrastingly pleasant, well-­asphalted rural Sagaing, easily added to an ‘ancient capitals’ lanes running cross-country to Inwa and, with a motorcycle or taxi tour from Mandalay. brief double-back, to Sagaing: turn west at the petrol station just north of the big river bridge. You can also get here by boat (one hour out, 40 minutes back, passport required). From Otherwise, the best way of getting out here is Mandalay’s 26th St ‘tourist jetty’ (Mayan Chan), via a Kyaukse-bound pick-up, or adding a side boats depart at 9am (foreigner US$8) returning trip here while exploring the area on a taxi or at 1.30pm. motorbike tour (expect to pay an extra K2000).

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Northern Myanmar Includes  Why Go? Pyin Oo Lwin Rugged and remote, northern Myanmar offers a fascinating (Maymyo) . . . . . . . . . . 273 mix of ethnic minority peoples and the prospect of travel Hsipaw. . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 through some of the least-visited areas of the country. While Lashio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 much of this vast region remains off-limits, two main routes Mogok . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 are accessible. One climbs rapidly from Mandalay to the Myitkyina. . . . . . . . . . . 291 British-­era summer capital of Pyin Oo Lwin, and then contin- Indawgyi Lake. . . . . . . 296 ues across the rolling Shan Plateau to Lashio. The crisp eve- Bhamo (Banmaw) . . . 297 nings are a great relief from the heat of the plains, while hikes Shwegu . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 take visitors into timeless Palaung and Shan hill villages. Katha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Shwebo . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Another other option is taking a ride along the mighty Putao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River, stopping off at Katha, the setting of George Orwell’s Burmese Days. The lazy, mean- Best Places to Eat dering journey provides great opportunities for genuine in- teraction with the locals. ¨¨Taj (p279) ¨¨Mrs Popcorn’s Garden Far beyond Myitkyina lie the rarely seen, snow-capped (p286) peaks of Myanmar’s Himalaya where trekking and whitewa- ¨¨Lake Front Feel (p279) ter rafting are taking off around Putao. ¨¨Club Terrace (p286) ¨¨Jing Hpaw Thu (p295) When to Go Rainfall inches/mm 5/125 Best Places to Northern Myanmar Sleep °C/°F Temp ¨¨Hotel Pyin Oo Lwin (p277) ¨¨Mr Charles Guest House 30/86 (p285) ¨¨Putao Trekking House 20/68 4/100 (p305) 3/75 ¨¨Hotel Maymyo (p277) ¨¨Hotel Katha (p300) 10/50 2/50 1/25 0/32 MAM J 0 JF J ASOND Nov–Feb The best Mar–May The Sep & Oct Despite time for trekking Shan Plateau’s the rain, the best or river travel, cooler days offer time for serious with temperatures an escape from far-north climbing comfortable and the ferocious hot expeditions. water levels high. season.

272 TIBET 0 200 km 0 120 miles Hkakabo Razi MouIncteainsHkakabo Razi National Park (19,295ft) INDIA Dibrugarh Putao Malikha River Maykha Jorhat VHaullkeayung River Imphal Tanai CRihivenrdwin Hukaung Valley Kumon TaungTiger Reserve Khamti Roads Closed KACHIN CHINA (Hkamti) to Foreigners STATE Myit-son N o rth e rn M ya nm a r M ya n m a r H i g hli g hts Hpakant Nyaungbin Myitkyina Indawgyi Lake Mogaung Tengchong Lonton Hopin Ayeyarwady Homalin River Mohnyin Tamu Paungbyin Naba Shwegu Momauk Luxi Sittaung Katha Stone Village (Mangshi) Bhamo Ruili Mawlaik SAGAING Ti-Kyaing 36 Mu-se REGION Tagaung ShweliSRHivAerNNVaamllheNkyaammKhuktakmai Kalemyo Travel Permits STATE Hsenwi Kalewa Required Namtu 3 Kalay Namhsan Airport Ye-U Kin-u Mogok Lashio Peyagyi Panglong Twin Daung (Spirulina Lake) Shwebo Kyaukmyaung Hsipaw Budalin Hanlin Gokteik Kyaukme 445 Viaduct Gokteik Monywa Pwe Kauk Falls Peik Chin Mandalay Myaung Cave Anisakan Wetwun 44 Pyin Oo Lwin Myingyan Kyaukse Pakokku Ye-Ngan Northern Myanmar Highlights 1 Hsipaw (p282) Walking 3 Indawgyi Lake (p296) 5 Gokteik Viaduct (p280) into unspoilt Shan and Cycling around this serene Riding the bouncing train across Palaung villages from this lake and then taking a boat this mighty viaduct, Myanmar’s delightful laid-back plateau to the mystical Shwe Myitsu highest railway bridge. town with royal connections. Paya. 6 Katha (p300) Spending lazy days drifting down the 2 Putao (p304) Heading to 4 Pyin Oo Lwin (p273) mighty Ayeyarwady River, the far north and the Himalaya Enjoying the cool upland air including George Orwell region, where tough trekking and colonial-era architecture connections in sleepy riverside and exhilarating whitewater of the old British summer Katha. rafting are taking off. capital of Myanmar.

273 People 88 Dangers & Annoyances N o rth e rn M ya nm a r MDP yaainnngdOeaorlsaLyw&itAnon(LnMaoasyyhaminoycoe)s The north is sparsely populated and ethnical- Since Burma’s independence, the north has ly complex, with many minority groups dom- witnessed a whole smorgasbord of low-level inating a series of pro- and anti-­government uprisings and ethnic separatist movements in local administrations and regional armed what is arguably the world’s longest-running militias. civil war. Tourists aren’t allowed too close to any flash points, so for most visitors these issues are Northeast of Mandalay you’ll find many more a political curiosity than a serious danger, Shan people (as in eastern Myanmar), di- although the closure of whole parts of the region vided into five sub-groups all prefixed ‘Tai’, is an obvious annoyance. Despite ongoing efforts along with the Wa and the Palaung, who to broker ceasefires, fighting still continues regard themselves semi-religiously as the between the Kachin Independence Army and the guardians of Burmese tea production. Lash- Tatmadaw (the Myanmar military), especially in io and several other border areas have large eastern Kachin State. Shan rebels and the United Chinese populations, who speak Mandarin Wa State Army are active in northern Shan State, as well as the Yunnan dialects spoken across along with the smaller Palaung State Liberation the frontier. Front. Who’s fighting who, and where, can change dramatically, so check with the locals to see In Kachin State, north of Mandalay, ‘mi- what the current situation is in more remote norities’ (notably Kachin and Shan) form an areas. Foreigners are never targeted, but there is overall majority. As an ethnic term, Kachin always the chance of being in the wrong place at is generally synonymous with speakers of the wrong time. The Tatmadaw, too, do not take the Jingpaw (Jingpo) language. But by My- kindly to travellers wandering into conflict zones. anmar’s official definition, it also covers at least five other groups, including Rawang MANDALAY TO LASHIO and Lisu. The Lisu language is written in a sci-fi capitalised Latin script with many Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo) inverted letters and ‘vowel-free’ words ျပင္ဦးလြင္ (hello is ‘hw hw’). Over the past century, many Kachin and a majority of Lisu have POP C 158,783 / % 085 / ELEVATION 3445FT converted to Christianity, their former ani- mist beliefs now largely reduced to colour- Founded by the British in 1896, Pyin Oo Lwin ful folklore as seen in two great festivals at was originally called Maymyo (‘May-town’), Myitkyina. after Colonel May of the 5th Bengal Infantry and was designed as a place to escape the In the Himalayan foothills are minuscule Mandalay heat. After the construction of the populations of various Tibetan tribal peo- railway from Mandalay, Maymyo became the ples including the Taron, Asiatic pygmies summer capital for the British colonial ad- who now number fewer than 10 and are ministration, a role it held until the end of limited to Naungmun in Myanmar’s north- ernmost tip. TRAVEL RESTRICTIONS Several parts of the north are essentially closed to foreign visitors without special per- mission. The main exceptions are areas along or close to the Mandalay–Lashio road and towns along the Ayeyarwady between Mandalay and Bhamo. You can link Mandalay and Myitkyina by railway but not by road, unless you have a guide and a private car. Permits are no longer required for flights into Putao town, but you still need them to trek to rural villages beyond. Permits are also still required for the gem-mining centre of Mogok. You can drive, accompanied by a guide, from Lashio to Mu-se for the Chinese border crossing. However, you cannot currently travel to the trekking and tea centre of Namhsan due to in- surgent activity. Travel between Myitkyina and Bhamo, whether by boat or road, is impos- sible for foreigners (and difficult even for the locals thanks to ongoing fighting). Foreigners are seriously discouraged from visiting the jade-mining sin city of Hpakant (Pakkan). The situation remains highly changeable with the government, at times, stopping the issuing of permits and adding previously open places to the list of those off-limits; always check with local tour operators for the situation at the time of travel and be prepared to alter your travel plans.

274 Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo) e# 0 500 m AB 0 0.25 miles C D û# 1 1 38 11 þ# 0 50 m Mandalay-Lashio RdD 1 28 ÿ# 10 42 ú# ÿ# 15 £# Train Station Mosque 2 4,#B13K3aBnÿ#Zk3ß#ì#7 ü#M#andTaþ##Ploÿ#auS&yPruic1(Tcn21eko5luFul0paTrmrstoo)Twrearvel 31 #ú 41Zeigyo Rd Statio n Rd Aung Thiri Mandala Zeigyo Rd Chantha ›# (1.2mi) Kyaukme Enlargement Paya (68mi) 2 Ú# 666D27 ñ# ú# N o rth e rn M ya nm a r MPDyaainnngdOeaorlsaLyw&itAnon(LnMaoasyyhaminoycoe)s Mandalay-Lashio Rd Football 19 ÿ# ú# 6 Ü# Pitch Zay Thit Rd CB Bankì# 5th St Shwezigone 25 Share-Taxi Stand ˜# 4th St Paya d ÿ# See Ú# 22 Enlargement 663 Aung Zay Ya Hwy Rd 30 3 ú# 33 5 ú# 666ò# Church of the Bogyoke St æ# Pick-ups to #þ 40 Zeigyo RIdCmomncaecputlaiotneÜ# Mandalay All Saints' 4 ›# Church Ú# 4 66Ü# 4 MaLnad(sMahlaiÿ#aoiynR- R9dd) Pyin Oo Lwin Multi-Off#æi7ce Rd CircularR 18 General Hospital d î# ÿ# Ziwaka St 66Foresÿ#tR1æ#6 2 Rd ÿ# 21 ÿ# Myaing 14 39 û# ü# 36 34 ú# an â# 1 5 Rd 5N Club 666 6629ú# #æ 3 20 26 ú# Golf ÿ# Lant hÿ#aya St 23 Nanda Rd Sandar Rd Eindaw Rd ÿ#12 Ø# 8 Pyin Oo Lwin 32 ú# 35 ú# Golf Club Hotel Pyin Oo Lwin (0.5mi); 6 ÿ# 6 66666NationalKandawgyi 24 D ÿ# 17 Gardens (1.2mi) ABCD British rule in 1948. The name was changed become famous for its fruit, jams and fruit after the British departed, but numerous wines. With the rise of the Myanmar version 66666colonial mansions and Christian churches of the nouveau riche, Pyin Oo Lwin is once remain, as do the descendants of the Indian again a popular weekend and hot-season and Nepali workers who came here to lay the getaway, so get here sharpish to experience railway line. More recently, Pyin Oo Lwin has what’s left of the old charm and calm.

275 Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo) 23 Tiger Hotel................................................C5 N o rth e rn M ya nm a r SMP iyaginnhdtOasol aLywitno (LMaasyhmioy o) 24 Win Unity Hotel........................................C6 æ Sights ú Eating 1 Candacraig Hotel.................................... D5 25 Aung Padamyar.......................................D3 2 Chan Tak .................................................. D4 26 Club Terrace ............................................A5 3 Former Croxton Hotel............................ C5 27 Daw Khin Than.........................................B3 4 Maha Aung Mye Bon Thar 28 Family Restaurant................................... A1 Pagoda .................................................. B4 29 Feel Cafe...................................................A5 5 Number 4 High School........................... D3 30 Ko Zaw's Krishna.....................................B3 6 Seventh Day Adventist Church............. D3 31 La Yone .....................................................A2 7 Survey Training Centre.......................... C4 32 Lake Front Feel ........................................B6 33 Sain Mya Ayar..........................................D3 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 34 San Francisco ..........................................B5 8 Pyin Oo Lwin Golf Club........................... B6 35 Taj..............................................................C6 û Drinking & Nightlife ÿ Sleeping 36 Barista-Khine Coffee Shop ....................B5 9 Aureum Resort at Governor's 37 December Cafe........................................A2 House .................................................... A4 38 Win Thu Zar.............................................. B1 10 Bravo Hotel...............................................B1 39 Woodland .................................................C5 11 Cherry Guesthouse ................................ A2 þ Shopping 12 Dahlia Motel............................................. D6 40 Central Market.........................................B4 13 Golden Dream Hotel............................... A2 41 Liqueur Corner.........................................A2 14 Grace Hotel 1 ........................................... B5 42 Pacific World Curio.................................. B1 15 Hotel Maymyo .......................................... A1 ï Transport 16 Hotel Shwe Nann Htike.......................... D4 43 Crown Bicycle Rental..............................A2 17 Kandawgyi Hill Resort ............................ C6 18 Nan Myaing Hotel ................................... A4 19 Royal Jasmine Hotel............................... D3 20 Royal Parkview Hotel ............................. C5 21 Royal Reward Resort Hotel ................... C5 22 Ruby Hotel ............................................... B3 1 Sights The garden’s two entrances are both on the eastern side of Kandawgyi Lake, around oNational Kandawgyi Gardens PARK a mile south of smaller Kandawlay Lake. (အမ်ဳိ းသားကနေ္ တာၾ္ ကးီ ဥယ်ာဥ;္ Nanda Rd; adult/ child under 12yr US$5/3; h8am-6pm, aviary 8am- 5pm,orchid garden & butterfly museum 8.30am-5pm, National Landmarks Garden MUSEUM Nan Myint Tower lift operates to 5pm) Founded in (အမ်ိဳးသားကနေ္ တာ္ၾကးီ ဥယ်ာဥ;္ adult/child US$4/2; h8am-6pm) This extensive hilly park 1915, this lovingly maintained 435-acre botan- is dotted with representations of famous ical garden features more than 480 species of landmarks from around Myanmar. Some flowers, shrubs and trees. The most appealing are pretty tacky, but if you haven’t got time aspect is the way flowers and overhanging to tour the entire country… The entrance is branches frame views of Kandawgyi Lake’s opposite the National Kandawgyi Gardens, wooden bridges and small gilded pagoda. Ad- near the southern (main) entrance. There is mission includes the swimming pool, aviary, also an amusement park just to the north: orchid garden and butterfly museum and one ticket includes admission to both sites. the bizarre Nan Myint Tower. Looking like a space rocket designed for Chan Tak TEMPLE a medieval Chinese Emperor, the 12-storey (ခ်န္တပ;္ 134 Forest Rd) This large, classically styled, if mostly modern, Chinese temple tower offers panoramic views, which are comes complete with ornate stucco dragons, better appreciated from the external stair- case than through the grease-smeared win- rock gardens, a vegetarian buffet restau- rant, landscaped ponds and a seven-tiered dows of the observation deck. Chinese-­style pagoda. Unfortunately, you can’t use a bicycle to get around the grounds, so bring walking shoes and allow around two hours to do it Candacraig Hotel HISTORIC BUILDING justice. Using the southern entrance slightly (သရီ ျိ မဳိ ငဟ္ တုိ ယ,္ ThiriMyaingHotel; %085-22047; Anawrattha Rd) Formerly the British Club, this reduces the walking you have to do. By 6pm classic colonial pile comes complete with side both gates will probably be locked, so watch the time, as there are no closure warnings. turrets and is set in attractively manicured

276 centrally is less atmospheric, but more con- venient for transport, restaurants and shops. COLONIAL BUILDINGS Golden Dream Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ Most of Pyin Oo Lwin’s trademark (%085-21913; [email protected]; 64 colonial-era buildings are dotted amid Mandalay-Lashio Rd; r incl breakfast US$6-24; a) the southeastern woodland suburbs This is the best-value cheapie in town, with on and off Circular Rd. Many look like rooms that share bathrooms from just US$6. classic 1920s British homes, while the An extra dollar earns you a sink, and rooms biggest have the feel of a St Trinian’s– from US$12 and up include a full bathroom style boarding school. There are also a and the chilled breeze of air-con. number of decaying but still impressive mansions on Nan Myaing St heading Hotel Shwe Nann Htike HOTEL $$ towards the Naval College. (%085-28288; www.hotelshwenannhtike.com; 71 Forest St; r incl breakfast US$40-80, ste US$55-140; Check out the splendid Former naW) Having just opened when we were in Croxton Hotel (Gandamar Myaing Hotel; town, this is a classy addition to the accom- Circular Rd), as well as the Number modation offerings in Pyin Oo Lwin. All 40 4 High School (Circular Rd) and theN o rth e rn M ya nm a r MAPcyatinindvOaiotliaLeyswitno (LMaasyhmioy o) rooms are large and include tasteful wood- Survey Training Centre (Multi-Office en trim and well-presented bathrooms with Rd). Up near the Shan Market, a fine tubs. Suite rooms start at just US$55 and rise half-timbered mansion is a Seventh to US$140 for the ‘Royal Suite Room’. Day Adventist Church (Cherry St). gardens. There’s a slightly spooky air to the Tiger Hotel HOTEL $$ place, and many locals believe it’s haunted. It (%085-21980; tigerhotelpol.com; 13/243 Sandar was closed for a major renovation during our Rd; r incl breakfast US$40-100; aW) This ex- recent visit. Previously there was a restaurant panding hotel has a range of rooms spread but, sadly, no raj-redolent bar. across different buildings. The best all-round rooms are the bungalows suites in the gar- den (from US$50 to US$60). More expensive Maha Aung Mye suites are set in a cluster of new houses, but Bon Thar Pagoda BUDDHIST TEMPLE the furnishings are a little on the bling side. (မဟာေအာငေ္ ျမဘံသု ာဘုရား) F Around There is also an al-fresco cocktail bar. 6am the pretty Maha Aung Mye Bon Thar Pagoda broadcasts Buddhist suttas (lec- tures) through its loudspeakers, just in case Royal Jasmine Hotel HOTEL $$ (%085-29737; royaljasminehotel.myanmar@gmail. you need a free wake-up call. It is one of the com; 5 Thu Min Galar Quarter; r incl breakfast busiest temples in town on festival days. US$40-55; naW) Run by popular Burmese 2 Activities crooner Nay Ye Mun (you might even be in town when he gives a performance at the Pyin Oo Lwin Golf Club GOLF rooftop terrace), it’s a clean and cared for (%085-22382; Golf Club Rd; green fee US$10, cad- midrange business hotel and good value at dy US$5, shoe hire US$1, club hire K10,000; h6am- 6pm) The 18-hole Pyin Oo Lwin Golf Club these rates. Like many of the new hotels in town, it includes a lift. is one of Myanmar’s better courses and is popular with the many army officers based Win Unity Hotel HOTEL $$ (%085-23079; www.winunityhotels.com; 3 Nanda in town. There’s a strict dress code – collars, Rd; r incl breakfast US$40-110; naW) Under caps and no jeans – and a caddie is compul- sory. You can hire clubs and golf shoes. the same ownership as Win Unity in Mony- wa, this is a friendly, family-run hotel near 4 Sleeping the lakeside. Rooms have recently been upgraded with new TVs and some smarter Some of Pyin Oo Lwin’s cheaper hotels aren’t touches, including Jacuzzi-style tubs in the licensed to accommodate foreigners. Staying two suites (US$110). in the leafy gardens area south of the centre is a distinctively Pyin Oo Lwin experience, Royal Reward Resort Hotel HOTEL $$ but consider renting a bike – with which (%085-28271; www.royalrewardresort.com; 36 you’ll need a torch (flashlight), as the pot- Circular Rd; r incl breakfast US$54-80, ste US$153- holed roads get very dark at night. Staying 180; aiW) This resort hotel is designed in

277 faux-British colonial style and set in extensive Cherry Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ grounds. Rooms feature wooden floors, local (%085-21306; 19 Mandalay-Lashio Rd; s/d incl textiles and generous detail. Suites are like breakfast US$10/20; W) This small guesthouse studios and are a good option for families. is pretty basic, but the prices reflect the rooms. Small singles are cells with shared bathrooms, but doubles and twins offers 4 Town Centre more space and some include a bathroom. oHotel Maymyo HOTEL $ (%085-28440; [email protected]; 12 Yadanar St; r incl breakfast US$25-45; naW) 4 Palace Hill Arguably the best-value hotel in town, this Nan Myaing Hotel HISTORIC HOTEL $ (%085-22118; www.nanmyainghotel.com; Mandalay-­ slick business-style hotel has 40 spick-and- Lashio Rd; dm incl breakfast US$11, r US$25; W) span rooms with all the amenities of a more expensive property, including flat-screen TV, Currently the top backpacker place in town, this hotel is set in an old British building minibar, safe, and swish bathrooms. Break- dating from 1922. Room 101 is reputed to be fast is included at the rooftop restaurant, which offers panoramic views of town. haunted – in a very Orwellian coincidence. Staff are super-helpful with travel infor- Bravo Hotel HOTEL $ mation. Orchid Hotel Group has taken the N o rth e rn M ya nm a r SMP lyaeinnedpOiaonl agLywitno (LMaasyhmioy o) (%085-21223; [email protected]; Mandalay-­ Lashio Rd; s/d incl breakfast US$20/30; aW) place over and will upgrade it to a luxe prop- erty in the future. Although the rooms are a little dated now, earthenware amphorae, ornate teak chests Aureum Resort and carved gilded panel-work reveal that at Governor’s House HOTEL $$$ (%085-21902; www.aureumpalacehotel.com; off some thought has gone into the design here, Mandalay-Lashio Rd; bungalows/ste incl breakfast thanks to the owner’s sister business Pacific Tribal Handicrafts. It’s a reliable option with US$90/250; naW) This painstakingly pre- cise recreation of the former British gover- helpful staff. nor’s mansion is an impressive statement, Ruby Hotel HOTEL $ but only five suites are within the main (%085-21909; [email protected]; Block 4, 32/B Mingalar St; r incl breakfast K25,000-30,000; half-timbered mansion, with the remaining accommodation being in stylish bungalows aW) Tucked down a quiet side street, but in the extensive grounds (electric buggy close to the centre of town, this hotel has bright clean rooms with attached bathrooms. links). The governor’s house is also open to nonguests as a small museum complete with waxwork figures (US$3 entry for foreigners). WANDERING BY WAGON IN 4 Gardens Area PYIN OO LWIN Grace Hotel 1 GUESTHOUSE $ Clip-clopping around town in the pictur- (%085-21230; 114A Nan Myaing Rd; s/d incl esque, colourfully painted horse-drawn breakfast US$10/20; W) The high-ceilinged carriages that stand in for taxis here is a rooms are showing their age and the share long-established Pyin Oo Lwin tradition. bathrooms are primitive, but the staff are Known locally as ‘wagons’, they congre- obliging and there’s a leafy garden with gate close to the market and the clock sun-loungers. Bicycle hire is K2000 a day. tower. Wandering the mansion-lined streets of the southern part of town by Dahlia Motel GUESTHOUSE $ wagon is especially evocative, and they (%085-22255; 67 Eindaw Rd; s/d/tr incl breakfast can also be positioned artfully to act as US$20/35/45; a) A cluster of concrete build- foreground props for photos. ings, the Dahlia offers the cheapest beds in the leafy ’burbs, but is somewhat short on Increasing traffic, though, means the atmosphere. Rooms vary wildly in quality, so wagons are less plentiful than they once ask to check a few options first. were. Always establish the price before you set off, and pick a driver who speaks oHotel Pyin Oo Lwin BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ some English. Reckon on K1500 to (%085-21226; www.hotelpyinoolwin.com; 9 Nanda K2000 for a short trip across town and Rd; deluxe r/ste incl breakfast from US$100/120; K15,000 for an all-day tour. aiWs) This is a gorgeous boutique hotel

278 near the town centre, this cheap and cheer- with bungalows scattered around a 5-acre ful South Indian restaurant offers simple yet site that feels like a suburban cul-de-sac and flavoursome curries. Choose from vegetari- comes with a mini-version of the Purcell an, chicken or mutton – the rice, chapati and Tower. The roomy and smart bungalows all sides are all included in the price. have terraces and working fireplaces. Effi- cient, English-speaking staff, Asian fusion Aung Padamyar INDIAN $ restaurant and a heated indoor swimming (Zay Thit Rd; curries K5000; h11am-6.30pm) One pool complete the perfect picture. of the most popular Indian restaurants in Kandawgyi Hill Resort HOTEL $$ Pyin Oo Lwin, this is a secluded, friendly, (%085-21839; www.myanmartreasureresorts.com; family-run eatery with a range of curries, all Nanda Rd; d/tr incl breakfast from US$45/50; n­a of which come with side dishes to create a ver- W­ ) Boasting a splendid setting, with five of the itable feast. Take the first right off Circular Rd 15 rooms inside a 1921 British-era house that after the Shan Market and then the first left was British Military Intelligence HQ after the down a small alley. Only kyat is accepted here. war, the key attraction is a delightful terrace commanding a large sweep of garden leading San Francisco SOUTHEAST ASIAN $ (Golf Club Rd; mains K2000-7000; h5.30am- N o rth e rn M ya nm a r EMP ayatinni ndOagol aLywitno (LMaasyhmioy o) down to the lakefront road. Other rooms are 9.30pm; WE) A long way from the Bay Area, in bungalows in the gardens. Rooms have heating – important in the winter. this airy joint attracts many locals with its mix of Chinese and Thai dishes, along with a few Kachin and Western specialities. The servings Royal Parkview Hotel HOTEL $$ are generous. It’s equally good for a beer. (%085-22641; www.royalparkview.hotelspyinoolwin. com; 107 Lanthaya St; r incl breakfast US$40-80; naW) Still a reliable midrange option, La Yone CHINESE $ (Zeigyo Rd; mains from K3000; h8am-9pm; E) there’s neither royalty nor park views here, Almost every restaurant in Pyin Oo Lwin but long ceiling drapes add a sophisticated style to the restaurant and the wide range features Chinese-influenced dishes, but La Yone is run by immigrants from Fujian and of rooms are attractive and comfortable and so the flavours are authentic. At night, it also come with mini-terraces. acts as an unofficial beer station. 5 Eating Daw Khin Than BURMESE $ Pyin Oo Lwin’s culinary choices reflect its (Mandalay-Lashio Rd; curries K3000; h7am-7pm) different communities, with Indian- and With so many foreign-themed eateries in Chinese-themed places, as well as many res- town, proper Bamar food is hard to find. This taurants serving a fusion-like mix of dishes. place satisfies lunchtime curry cravings, as Standard, cheap teahouses and eateries are well as offering Shan noodles for breakfast. scattered throughout the city centre, both along the main road and around the Central Sain Mya Ayar CHINESE $ Market – where a night market fills three (Zay Thit Rd; dim sum & noodles K500-3000; blocks of Zaigyo St with snack-food stands – h6am-8.30pm) A cute, Chinese-style, open- as well as close to the Shan Market. air restaurant run by a Shan family serving tasty dim sum in the front yard of a modest If you’re willing to spend a little more, a half-timbered colonial-era house. It does handful of stand-out restaurants can make noodle dishes and juices too. dining in Pyin Oo Lwin a real pleasure. Feel Cafe BURMESE $ Family Restaurant BURMESE, THAI $ (off Mandalay-Lashio Rd; mains K1800-6800; (%085-23170; Sandar St; mains K2000-5000; h9am-9.30pm) The decor is bland and h7am-9pm; WE) Not to be confused with the superbly located Lake Front Feel (p279), there’s no alcohol served, but the delicious curry spread comes with complimentary this is the Bamar budget experience com- veggie side dishes, salad, rice, soup, pappad- pared with the international offerings at the lake branch. Choose from a tasty array of ams and chutneys and dips. Burmese favourites. This place is justifiably Snack-Food Stands STREET FOOD $ popular with Mandalay visitors. (snacks K500-1500; h5.30-9pm) A night mar- ket with snack-food stands fills three blocks Ko Zaw’s Krishna INDIAN $ of Zaigyo St in the vicinity of the Central (%094-5003 7289; 50 Gurkha Rd; mains K2000- 3000; h11am-9.30pm; v) On a back street Market.

279 oTaj INDIAN $$ Win Thu Zar BEER STATION (%09 78404 9880; 26 Nanda Rd; mains K3000- (Mandalay-Lashio Rd; h9am-9pm) A standard male-dominated beer hall notable purely be- 10,000; h10am-10pm; aWE) The standout cause it serves tastily smooth spirulina ‘anti-­ Indian restaurant in town, this opulent lake- side eatery is much more reasonably priced ageing’ beer on draught. It’s better than it sounds, as the bitter flavour of the spirulina than its extravagant look suggests. Best by is subtle. night, the fish and prawn tikka are some of the best we have ever tasted and quite literally melt in the mouth. Beer, wine and 7 Shopping cocktails are available, and the friendly staff Fruity is the word that springs to mind. Bur- deliver a high standard of service. mese tourists come here to buy fresh fruit, fruit jams and fruit-infused wines, which is oLake Front Feel EUROPEAN, PAN-ASIAN $$ all produced locally. (%085-22083; off Nanda Rd; mains K3000- 10,000; h8.30am-9pm; WE) The upmarket Central Market MARKET yet casual lakeside setting is an obvious at- (Zeigyo Rd; h6.30am-5.30pm) Sample Pyin Oo traction. Its menu spans Europe and a fair Lwin’s famous (if seasonal) strawberries and chunk of Asia, making it the only place in other fruit, fresh, dried or as jams and wine. town where you can sate your sushi craving. It also has cheap Western clothes and longyi N o rth e rn M ya nm a r MDP yrainndkOaionl agLyw&itnNoi(gLMahatsylhimfoyeo) The waterside terrace is a relaxed spot for a (sarong-style garments). There are tailors on sundowner. During busy weekends or holi- the 1st floor if you need alterations or some- days, dinner reservations are advisable. thing knocked up. Club Terrace SOUTHEAST ASIAN $$ Pacific World Curio ANTIQUES, CRAFT (%085-23311; 25 Golf Club Rd; mains K2500-7000; (h8am-7pm) Decent selection of Shan pup- h8am-10pm; E) One of the most popular pets, as well as other ‘antiques’ and local of Pyin Oo Lwin’s restaurants, this place craft items. Test your haggling skills. occupies a gorgeous half-timbered colonial bungalow with tables spilling out onto the Liqueur Corner ALCOHOL garden terrace. The food favours a tasty com- (Zeigyo Rd; h8.30am-8.30pm) Sells local fruit wines (bottles from K5000), as well as Bur- bination of Thai and Chinese flavours, as mese rum and whisky. well as a small selection of Shan and Western options. Extensive wine selection, including local fruit vintages. 88 Information 6 Drinking & Nightlife For an overview of all things Pyin Oo Lwin, includ- ing lots of photographs of sights around town, Barista-Khine Coffee Shop CAFE check out the website www.pyinoolwin.info. Most of the major banks are strung out along the (Ziwaka St; h7.30am-7.30pm; W) The best cof- Mandalay-L­ ashio Rd in the centre of town. fee shop in town. The baristas really know CB Bank (135 Mandalay-Lashio Rd) Pristine how to present the coffee with an artistic dollars can be changed here, plus there is a flourish. As well as a caffeine kick, there are debit/credit card–compatible ATM. also light snacks available. KBZ Bank (65 Mandalay-Lashio Rd) Main branch of KBZ. Includes a cluster of interna- December Cafe CAFE tional ATMs. Sun Far Travel & Tours (% 085-28373; cnr (Zeigyo Rd; h6am-9pm) Popular with officer Merchant & Zeigyo Rds; h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) cadets (wear green to blend in), this place Pyin Oo Lwin branch of a nationwide travel occupies the ground floor of an old colonial agency, it’s a useful stop to book airline tickets building and has good cheap coffee, juices, out of Mandalay or Lashio. milkshakes and Burmese-style snacks. Woodland BAR 88 Getting There & Away (53 Circular Rd; cocktails from K3500; h11am-11pm; Yangon and Nay Pyi Taw buses leave from the W) Electric-blue panelling, a glass wall that inconvenient main bus station Thiri Mandala, 2 reveals an aviary, as well as a spacious gar- miles east of the Shan Market. den area, make this a stylish if self-conscious venue for an evening libation. It has live mu- All other buses leave from behind the San Pya sic, cocktails, foreign beers and an extensive Restaurant, 600m south of the bus station, as menu of Asian and Western favourites. do some shared taxis and pick-ups to Mandalay.

280 impressive religious building. It enshrines an Pick-ups to Mandalay leave from near the gas enormous 17-ton white marble Buddha statue that fell off a truck bound for China in April station at the roundabout at the entrance to 1997. After several attempts to retrieve the town, as well as less frequently from outside the Buddha failed, it was decided that the statue train station, north of the town centre. ‘had decided to stay in Myanmar’. Shared taxis to Mandalay leave from 4th St. Eventually cranes were used to yank him If arriving at Mandalay International Airport up the hill and a dazzling new golden pago- and planning to transfer to Pyin Oo Lwin, direct da was built for him. He is now draped in taxis are available for around US$35. gilt robes and sits in a temple interior that’s The only way to go to the gem-mining district an incredible overload of gold. The pagoda is of Mogok is by private car with a tour guide, on a hilltop, just south of the Lashio-bound and you need official permission to visit, best highway, around 15 minutes’ drive beyond arranged in advance through a Yangon- or Man- Pyin Oo Lwin’s vast Defense Forces Techno- dalay-based tour operator. logical Academy compound. If you reach the toll gates, you’ve gone half a mile too far. 88 Getting Around N o rth e rn M ya nm a r GPMeyatinntdiOanolgaLAywritonoutLnoadsKhyiaoukme Pwe Kauk Falls WATERFALL Crown Bicycle Rental (46 Mandalay-Lashio Rd; bicycles/motorbikes per day from (ေပြးေကာက္ေရတံခြန;္ K500, camera fee K300; K2000/8000; h7.30am-6.30pm) rents bicy- h6am-7pm) Called Hampshire Falls in Brit- cles and motorbikes. It also has some automatic ish times, Pwe Kauk is a fan of small weirs motorbikes for K15,000 per day. and splash pools rather than a dramatic wa- terfall, but the forest glade setting is pretty. Motorcycle taxis are easy to find close to the A series of little wooden bridges, souvenir Central Market and the Bravo Hotel. Expect to stands and children’s play areas add to the pay K1500 to Kandawgyi Gardens. For longer attraction for local families but undermine hires, consider engaging an English-speaking any sense of natural serenity. It’s a two-min- driver. Rates are around K20,000 for a full day. ute drive down a steep, easily missed lane Three-wheel pick-ups congregate outside the market; plan on paying around K2000 to Kandawgyi Gardens. excursion off the Hsipaw road that starts directly north of Aung Htu Kan Tha Paya. Pyin Oo Lwin to Kyaukme Myaing Gyi MONASTERY If you’re driving to Kyaukme/Hsipaw, there are several interesting sights that are just a (ႃမငုိ ႀ္ ကီး) F After descending a loop of short detour from the main road, and are hairpins from Pyin Oo Lwin, the Hsipaw awkward to visit via public transport. A road reaches attractive Myaing Gyi where a round-trip half-day tour by motorcycle-taxi rickety monastery climbs a wooded hillside. to all of the following from Pyin Oo Lwin Two minutes’ drive further on, the road- should cost around K12,000. side Wetwun Zaigone Monastery is more photogenic with a fine array of stupas and Aung Htu Kan Tha Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE Balinese-style pagodas behind a giant old (အထ့ံ းူ ကသံ ာဘရု ား) Finished in March 2000, banyan tree. this dazzling pagoda is by far the region’s most GOKTEIK VIADUCT A highlight of the long, slow Mandalay–Lashio train ride is the mighty Gokteik Viaduct (ဂတု ထ္ ပိ တ္ တံ ား). It spans the Gokteik Gorge, a densely forested ravine 34 miles northeast of Pyin Oo Lwin that cuts an unexpectedly deep gash through the otherwise mildly rolling landscape. At 318ft high and 2257ft across, it was the second-highest railway bridge in the world when constructed, and remains Myanmar’s longest. From aboard the train, the best views are from north-facing windows (the left side if you’re heading towards Lashio). The viaduct is visible through the trees for some time as the train winds down from the plateau, and there are fine views from parts of Gokteik station (near the viaduct’s western end), but be aware that the train only stops there very briefly. Trains slow to a crawl when crossing the viaduct to avoid putting undue stress on the ageing superstructure. Despite some 1990s renovation work, the viaduct – built in 1901 by contractors from the Pennsyl- vania Steel Company – still creaks ominously as trains edge their way across.

281 ANISAKAN FALLS N o rth e rn M ya nm a r KAMcyataniudvkaimtleiaeys to L a shio Just north of Anisakan village, the plateau disappears into an impressive, deeply wood- ed amphitheatre, its sides ribboned with several waterfalls. The most spectacular of these is the gorgeous three-step Dat Taw Gyaik, whose last stage thunders into a shady splash pool beside a small pagoda on the valley floor. It’s best visited in the early morn- ing or late afternoon. To get here from Pyin Oo Lwin, take the main Mandalay highway (a motorbike taxi is about K8000 return). In Anisakan town take the second asphalted turn right (sign- posted) and keep right past the first large pagoda. At the end of this road a pair of basic shack-restaurants mark the start of a steep, twisting, rocky forest trail about 40 minutes’ trek from the waterfall. It’s treacherous in the rainy season (wear proper walking shoes), although you’ll get to see the falls in magnificent, full flow. Local girls will follow you with drinks; they make good guides (K1000). Should you wish to stay there’s The View (%085-22881; www.theviewpyinoolwin.com; Anisakan; bungalows incl breakfast US$250; naiWc). Under the same ownership as Hotel Pyin Oo Lwin (p277), this new resort has a dramatic setting overlooking the Dat Taw Gyaik Falls. The bungalows are pricey, but from their steep hillside location you get to-die-for views. There’s also a terrace restaurant open to nonguests. Peik Chin Myaung CAVE ellers than Hsipaw and there’s only a few foreigner-­licensed places to stay. Kyaukme (ပတိ ခ္ ်ငး္ ေျမာင;္ camera fee K300; h6.30am- means ‘black stone’; local legend has it that 4.30pm) F About 5 miles east of Myaing its citizens were dishonest traders of pre- Gyi is this Buddhist cave complex. Many Bud- cious (or not so precious) gems. dhist caves are little more than rocky niches or overhangs, but Peik Chin is much more 2 Activities extensive. It takes around 15 minutes to walk to the cave’s end, following an underground Trekking stream past a series of colourful scenes from The typical walking destinations have an Buddhist scriptures interspersed with stupas unspoilt charm that challenges even those and Buddha images. around Hsipaw. However, Kyaukme itself is There are a few sections where you’ll need pretty spread out, so most treks start with a to bend over to get beneath dripping rocks, motorcycle ride to a suitable trailhead. This but most of the cave is high-ceilinged and is typically included in guide fees, which adequately lit, so you don’t need a torch. It cost around K30,000 for a couple. For longer can feel sweaty and humid inside. No shorts motorbike trails you’ll need to add K10,000 or footwear permitted. per day for bike rental plus petrol. The access road is around 2½ miles east of Myaing Gyi, just beyond the green sign Do not stray from market paths when trek- announcing your arrival in Wetwun town. king around Kyaukme, as two German tourists Turn right through a lion-guarded gateway were injured by shrapnel during a landmine arch, then descend inexorably for another explosion in April 2016. Stick to marked paths 2 miles to the large parking area thronged and always trek with a local guide. with souvenir stalls. Naing-Naing (%09 4730 7622; naing Kyaukme ေက်ာက္မဲ [email protected]), nicknamed ‘9-9’, is POP C 39,930 / % 082 / ELEVATION 2950FT Kyaukme’s best-known guide. He speaks good English, has a fascinating background Pronounced ‘Chao-may’, Kyaukme is a low- and an extensive knowledge of the entire rise, bustling market town with a smatter- area. He prefers to take groups of four. ing of colonial-era architecture, bracketed by monastery-topped hills, each only 15 4 Sleeping minutes’ walk away using steep, covered stairways. The main attraction here is hik- Northern Rock Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ ing into surrounding Shan and Palaung (%082-40660; [email protected]; 4/52 hill villages. The town sees far fewer trav- Shwe Phe Oo Rd; r US$6-25; naW) Sister hotel to the Northern Rock in Hsipaw, this friendly guesthouse offers very basic cubicle rooms in the old house at the front, the cheapest options

282 (which can book tickets). Other Lashio- and with shared bathroom only. However, the Mandalay-bound buses can be caught on the US$20 to US$25 rooms are much nicer and main highway, a K1500 motorbike taxi ride away. include a bathtub and air-conditioning. The train station is a 10-minute walk northwest One Love Hotel HOTEL $ from the guesthouse. (%082-40943; 1 Pinlon St; r incl breakfast US$30- 40; naW) Not a Bob Marley tribute hotel, but the smartest all-rounder in Kyaukme, the new rooms here have flat-screen TV and Hsipaw သီေပါ POP C 20,897 / % 082 / ELEVATION 2300FT a minibar. Family rooms include a double and single bed. Wi-fi is included in the rates. Increasing numbers of foreigners are find- ing their way to delightful Hsipaw (pro- nounced ‘see-paw’ or ‘tee-bor’), drawn by the A Yone Oo Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ possibilities of easily arranged hill treks that (%082-40183; Shwe Phi Oo Rd; r US$8-70; aWc) This sprawling complex has a dizzy- are more authentic than those around Kal- aw or anywhere in northern Thailand. Many ing array of rooms in a variety of buildings. people, though, find the town’s laid-back Cheapest rooms are very basic with a shared bathroom. Best value are the rooms with vibe and intriguing history as a Shan royal city as much of an attraction and spend far N o rth e rn M ya nm a r EMHasaitnipndaagwl ay to L a shio bathroom attached, including some large longer here than they intended. With just bungalow rooms for US$20/25 per single/ double. There are large family rooms from enough tourist infrastructure to be conven- ient, Hsipaw remains a completely genuine US$50 to US$70. northern Shan State town. Be sure to check 5 Eating it out before this changes. There are insurgents operating in some There’s a strip of Yunnan-style Chinese res- rural areas around Hsipaw, so certain desti- taurants close to the cinema, three blocks nations like Namhsan are now off-limits to south of Shwe Phi Oo Rd, as well as snack foreigners. Local businesses in Hsipaw are stalls in the market. ‘taxed’ by insurgents from the Shan State Shwe Mate Sone Restaurant CHINESE $ Army (SSA) from time to time, but there have been no incidents involving foreigners to date. (%082-40360; Aung San Rd; mains K1500-5000; Because of ongoing security problems, be h7am-9pm; E) This hole-in-the-wall restau- rant near the market offers a good range of sure to check with local travel agents before planning a trekking trip around Hsipaw. Chinese classics in a clean and comfortable environment. Plastered with Myanmar Beer posters, it also offers draught for K800 a glass. 1 Sights Thiri Pyitsaya BURMESE, CHINESE $ The present town centre, Tyaung Myo, dates (4/54 Shwe Phi Oo Rd; dishes K1500-4000; h7am- back only to the early 20th century. The 9pm; E) One of only two places in town with main monasteries, stupas and former palace an English-language menu, this is an amia- lie on higher ground around a mile further ble little place for basic noodle and rice dishes, north in Myauk Myo. as well as juices and beers. Myauk Myo AREA 88 Getting There & Away (ေျမာက္ျမဳိ ႕) F At the northern edge of town, Hsipaw’s oldest neighbourhood has Buses leave from the southwest corner of the a village-like atmosphere, two delightful old market. Minibuses pick up from A Yone Oo Hotel teak monasteries and a collection of ancient KYAUKME TRANSPORT CONNECTIONS DESTINATION BUS MINIBUS TRAIN N/A Hsipaw K2000; 1hr; frequent ordinary/upper class K300/650; 3hr; 1.50pm Lashio K4000; 3hr; 7am back/front seat K5500/ Mandalay 6500; 3hr; 2 daily noon-1pm ordinary/upper class K3500; 6hr; 4 daily K600/1300; 6hr; 1.50pm 4.30am-7am back/front seat K6500/ 7500; 4½hr; 5 daily 7am-2pm ordinary/upper class K950/2150; 11½hr; 11.25am

283N o rth e rn M ya nm a r SMHisaginhpdatawsl ay to L a shio HSIPAW’S SHAN PALACE Hsipaw was ruled by a sawbwa (sky prince) until the military junta seized power in 1962, ending the centuries-old tradition of the different regions of Shan State being run as sepa- rate kingdoms by 32 sky princes. The last sawbwa of Hsipaw disappeared during the army takeover (the book Twilight over Burma: My Life as a Shan Princess, written by his wife Inge Sargent, describes the tragic events), leaving his nephew Mr Donald in charge of the family palace. Imprisoned for a number of years and then placed under effective house ar- rest, during which time the palace was closed, Mr Donald is now free thanks to the reforms Myanmar has undergone since 2011, and people can once again visit the palace. In truth, it’s not a palace in the traditional sense. Built in 1924, it’s a fading, although still impressive, English-style mansion set in run-down grounds. But if the building is infused with a melancholic air, then the charming Mr Donald and his wife, Fern, make gracious hosts. They welcome visitors in their sitting room decorated with family photos and will relate the fascinating history of their ancestors and the sad fate of the last sawbwa. While there is no admission fee, a donation (given respectfully) is expected and goes towards maintaining the palace. Mrs Fern is also a keen reader and always appreciates new books in English. In theory, the palace is open for a few hours each day, from 9am to noon and 4pm to 6pm. If the gates are chained, they’re not receiving visitors. It had been closed for a few months at the time of our last visit. To reach the palace, cross the bridge at the northern end of Namtu Rd, turn right at the police station and then left at the monastery. The palace is up the track past the immigration office. brick stupas known locally as Little Bagan. ridge that rises directly behind the Lashio The multifaceted wooden Madahya Mon- road, just over a mile south of Hsipaw. astery looks especially impressive when viewed from across the palm-shaded pond Cross the new river bridge, follow the of the Bamboo Buddha Monastery (Maha main road left then take the laterite track Nanda Kantha). that starts with a triple-crowned temple gateway around 300m beyond. There’s a The 150-year-old buddha is made from lac- small English sign at the gateway. The climb quered bamboo strips, now hidden beneath takes around 15 minutes. layers of gold. Around and behind lie a few clumps of ancient brick stupas, some over- Bawgyo Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE whelmed by vegetation in vaguely Angkorian style. The nickname for this area, Little Bagan, (ေဘာႀ္ ကဳိ ဘရု ား) F Five miles west of Hsi- blatantly overplays the size and extent of the paw, beside the Hsipaw–Kyaukme road, this sites but the area is undoubtedly charming. pagoda is of great significance to Shan people and gets overloaded with pilgrims who ar- To get here cross the big bridge on Nam- rive en masse during the annual Bawgyo tu Rd heading north. Turn first left at the Paya Pwe, culminating on the full moon day police station, then first right and fork left. of Tabaung (February/March). The pagoda’s Take this lane across the railway track then current incarnation is an eye-catching 1995 follow the main track as it wiggles. structure of stepped gilded polygons, within which the dome supposedly incorporates To return by an alternative route, take the genuine rubies. unpaved track east behind the Bamboo Bud- The name translates loosely as ‘Dad come dha monastery, rapidly passing Eissa Paya and get me’, referencing the original pagoda, (where one stupa has a tree growing out of which was built centuries earlier by a heart- it). You’ll emerge near Sao Pu Sao Nai, a broken Shan king who had married off his colourful shrine dedicated to the guardian daughter, warrior-princess Saw Mun La, to nat of Hsipaw. Rather than turning left into the Burmese king as part of a Shan-Burma the shrine, turn right and you’ll reach Nam- peace deal. The Burmese king adored her tu Rd a little north of the railway. but, as the seventh wife in his harem, her Sunset Hill VIEWPOINT presence and growing favour caused trouble. F For sweeping views across the river Jealous concubines set about denouncing and Hsipaw, climb to Thein Daung Pago- da, also known as Nine Buddha Hill or, most her as a spy. The king didn’t fall for the lies but realised that he’d better get her out of popularly, Sunset Hill. It’s part of a steep his court before the other wives murdered

284 e# 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles Hsipaw 66B C D A Mrs Popcorn's Garden (0.8mi); ÿ# 10 1 1 MyaAuukbMaySot(ÿ#0.87mi) PadSatmyar Sports ÿ# 11 Namtu Rd (Main Rd)D17 ú# Field ü# 20 66û#21 £# TSrtaaitnion Thirimingalar St 3 Ú# ï# Mr BoGoaknd#æam2arGSot d#âown#æs 1 Lanmataw St ò# ú# 15 2 2 13 Theinni Stÿ# ü# 19 Sabai St Aung Tha Pyay Rd 4 Dokhtawady River ÿ#5 9 Tharaphi St Shwe Nyaung Pin St Thazin St ÿ# #æ N o rth e rn M ya nm a r HSMisaginhpdatawsl ay to L a shio Hnin St#ÿKBZ6 Bank RC Bus ú# 16 #ì Marlan Station 14 St Mand Rd (Bog#›yoú#ke #ú 18 #ÿ 8 alay-Lashio # Rd) School6612 Clock 3 Tower 3 #î Hospital #ÿ Mahamyatmuni Paya (400m); D Sunset Hill D Mr Charles Riverview Lodge (2.5mi) (1mi) ABCD Hsipaw 6612 Tai House ................................................B3 13 Yee Shin Guesthouse.............................B2 æ Sights 1 Banyan Tree Nat Shrine........................ C2 2 Central Market....................................... C2 3 Central Pagoda ...................................... B2 ú Eating 4 Produce Market ..................................... D2 14 A Kaung Kyite .........................................B3 15 Club Terrace ...........................................D2 16 Law Chun ................................................B3 ÿ Sleeping 5 La Residence.......................................... B2 17 Pontoon .................................................. B1 6 Lily The Home Hotel .............................. C2 18 San ..........................................................B3 7 Mr Charles Guest House ........................ B1 8 Nam Khae Mao Guesthouse ................. C3 û Drinking & Nightlife 9 Northern Land Hotel ............................. B2 19 Black House Coffee Shop......................D2 10 Red Dragon Hotel ...................................C1 20 La Wün Aung .......................................... C1 11 Riverside @ Hsipaw Resort....................D1 21 Mr Shake................................................. C1 her. The plan should have worked, but on the here was inspired by the famous Mahamuni long, arduous route back to her father’s court Buddha in Mandalay. He’s now backed by an she fell ill. The Shan king was sent for but ar- acid-trip halo of pulsating coloured lights rived to find her already dead of a mystery that would seem better suited to a casino. sickness. The point where she died became the site of a pagoda to underline Shan-­ Central Pagoda BUDDHIST PAGODA Burmese friendship. You’ll get a brief glimpse of the temple from the right-hand side of any (Namtu Rd) F The principal Buddhist Kyaukme- or Mandalay-bound bus. temple in the heart of Hsipaw, it has a shim- mering golden stupa visible from several blocks away. Mahamyatmuni Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE Produce Market MARKET (မဟာျမတမ္ နု ိဘုရား; Namtu Rd) F South (h4.30am-1pm) Most interesting before of the central area, Mahamyatmuni Paya is the biggest and grandest pagoda in the main dawn when the road outside is jammed with hill villagers selling their wares; all will have town. The large brass-faced Buddha image

cleared away by 7am, although the market 285 continues until 1pm. an overnight trek) to take you on a range of fascinating walks into the hills above Central Market MARKET town visiting Shan and Palaung villages. Mr Charles Guest House is especially well or- (h6am-5pm) The main market in town is a ganised and most evenings will have guides busy affair in the morning when locals come sitting on the front terrace to answer ques- to shop for produce. By the afternoon, it is tions about the various options. Generally a usually pretty sleepy. next-day departure is possible if you don’t want anything too adventurous. Banyan Tree Nat Shrine SHRINE (ေညာင္ပင္နတစ္ င)္ F This is an impor- Workshop Visits tant local shrine for traditional nat worship. If you don’t fancy trekking, there are vari- ous workshops and mini-factories around 2 Activities town, where you can see locals carrying out cottage industries like weaving, noodle-­ Trekking making, cheroot rolling and even popcorn N o rth e rn M ya nm a r MAHcsatinipdvaawitliaeys to L a shio The Palaung and Shan villages dotting the popping. All these are marked on the map hills surrounding Hsipaw are perhaps the in the reception at Mr Charles Guest House. main reason to visit the area, and treks to Or find a guide via a guesthouse to combine them are deservedly popular. The most vis- a few workshop visits with, perhaps, a field- ited village is Pankam, a Palaung settlement stroll to Parpeit village and hot springs. nestled on a ridge about five hours’ walk from Hsipaw. It’s a gentle trek that takes you 4 Sleeping through a number of timeless Shan villages with stilt houses. Note how each hamlet has oMr Charles Guest House HOTEL $ a kin-gyiao, a wooden phallus placed above (%082-80105; www.mrcharleshotel.com; 105 a buried urn of vegetable oil to ensure fertile Auba St; dm incl breakfast US$7-12, r US$18-45; fields. Gateways with crossed-wooden-knife aW) Still the most efficient, comfortable symbols are present to protect the settle- and traveller-friendly guesthouse in town, ments from evil spirits. Pankam itself has the large Mr Charles operation encompasses a fascinating shrine commemorating the everything from simple mattresses on the 12th-century legend of how a powerful nat floor in the dorms to swish suites with heat- spirit bestowed tea seeds on the Palaung. Tea ing and air-con. Expect to pay US$18 and up remains the principal source of income for for a room with its own bathroom, but book the Palaung, who regard themselves as the ahead in peak periods. guardians of tea cultivation in Shan State. The helpful staff at this Shan-owned guesthouse can arrange transport, treks and Pankam can be visited as part of a multi- tours. It has bicycle (K2000 per day) and day trek, hiking out and back in two days, or motorbike (K10,000 per day) hire and com- you can hitch a lift one way on a motorbike munal upstairs balconies where guests swap (K5000 from Hsipaw, but K10,000 coming travel stories late into the evening. back) if you don’t want to stay overnight. Go- ing with a guide will enable you to commu- La Residence GUESTHOUSE $ nicate with the locals and ensure you don’t (%09 25602 8188; [email protected]; accidentally stumble into insurgent territory. 27 Aung Tha Pyay Rd; r K19,000-22,000; naW) Set in an attractive wooden home in the mid- But with Pankam now firmly on the tour- dle of town, this small guesthouse has plenty ist route, some travellers are seeking alterna- of charm and character, if not quite the com- tive treks to more remote locations. Options fort level of the smarter competition. Rooms include a two-day hike to Kyaukme that in the main house are shared bathroom, but takes you through fields and forests. Bear in the garden bungalows include a private bath- mind that some of these treks are only possi- room. There is an atmospheric bar-r­ estaurant ble between October and March; during the downstairs with draught Myanmar Beer. rainy season, the trails become very difficult. Yee Shin Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ If you want something less arduous, then (%082-80711; Namtu Rd; r US$5-30; aW) Cen- the guides at Mr Charles Guest House can trally located and run by a very helpful fam- take you to local waterfalls, or arrange com- ily. Rooms with shared bathrooms at the Yee bined trekking and boat trips, which will Shin are tiny, but also have a tiny impact spare your knees. Each of the guesthouses can organise guides (from K10,000 per day; K20,000 for

286 Riverside @ Hsipaw Resort BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ on your wallet. There are spacious air-con (%082-80721; www.hsipawresort.com; Myohaung rooms in a newer building that come with village; r US$65-90; naW) Located across the private bathroom and hot water. Facilities river from Hsipaw itself, this is an impres- include table tennis, and staff can even ar- sive boutique resort from the Amata group range a take away pizza from one of the only of hotels. The bungalow rooms are among resident foreigners in town. the most spacious in town, and some have good views of the countryside. It is possible Lily The Home Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ to cross the river by local boat, or you have a (%082-80318; www.lilythehome.com; 108 Aung fairly circuitous drive back to town. Tha Pyay Rd; r US$9-70; naW) This smart and friendly hotel just keeps on expand- ing and now offers 33 rooms spread across Tai House HOTEL $$ (%082-80161; www.taihouseresort.com; 38 Sa- a jumble of buildings. Cheapies involve a bai St; s incl breakfast US$30-50, d US$40-60; shared bathroom, but all are meticulously clean. Rooms for US$15 include air-con, naW) This lovingly designed resort boasts and rooms from US$40 and up are in the a lush garden brimming with orchids. The new main building with Hsipaw’s only lift. deluxe bungalows are spacious and stylish Treks can be organised and there’s bike hire and include TV and minibar. Cheaper su- N o rth e rn M ya nm a r EMHasaitnipndaagwl ay to L a shio (K2000 per day). perior rooms don’t include these extras and also lack a bathtub. Northern Land Hotel HOTEL $ (%082-80713; www.northernlandhotel.com; Nam- 5 Eating tu Rd; r US$25-28; naW) This relatively new guesthouse is clean and well run, offer- Hsipaw’s dining options have improved as ing rooms with capacious beds and all the the number of visitors has increased. While trimmings like flat-screen TV, minibar and there are many simple places strung out hot-water showers. It’s in a very central loca- along Namtu Rd, more sophisticated restau- tion with lots of restaurants nearby. rants can also be found. Red Dragon Hotel HOTEL $ Street vendors sell moun-ou-khalei (rice- (%082-80740; Mahaw Gani St; r incl breakfast flour balls) and kauk-pout (pronounced US$7-30; naW) One of the more high-rise ‘cow-po’), rounds of pounded sticky brown buildings in town, so you might want to re- rice that are barbecued then sprinkled with quest a room on a lower floor as it doesn’t jaggary and sesame. have a lift. Cheapest rooms involve a shared oMrs Popcorn’s Garden CAFE $ (snacks K1000-3000; h7am-7pm; E) Run by the bathroom, but there are also lots of air-con irrepressible Mrs Popcorn, this place is a de- units with private bathroom. There is a roof- top restaurant for breakfast (included) and finitive stop on a tour of the Myauk Myo area of town where ‘Little Bagan’ is located. Choose extensive views over the town. from homemade snacks, some traveller fa- Nam Khae Mao Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ vourites and, of course, popcorn. Cold beer is (%082-80077; namkhaemaoguesthouse@gmail. available, so it’s easy to kick back and while com; 134 Mandalay-Lashio Rd; s/d without bath- away a couple of hours in the late afternoon. room US$5/10; aiW) This central guest- house has pretty much the cheapest beds in oClub Terrace SOUTHEAST ASIAN $ town, but as with everything in life, you get (35 Shwe Nyaung Pin St; mains K3000-5000; what you pay for. The rooms are small, but h10am-10pm; E) Dine al-fresco in a gor- the shared bathrooms are clean and include geous 90-year-old teak house with a lovely hot water. riverside terrace. The menu mixes Thai and Chinese flavours, with a few Shan dishes like Mr Charles Riverview Lodge LODGE $$ minced chicken curry with basil leaves. It (%082-80105; http://mrcharlesriverviewlodge. com; r US$55-65; naW) Beautifully set on has a decent wine list, splendid service and a peaceful, evocative setting. the Dokhtawady River about 2.5 miles from It’s an offshoot of the restaurant of the town, this is boutique bliss amid ricefields. Rooms are stylishly finished with ample same name in Pyin Oo Lwin (p279). river-facing balconies and the bathrooms Law Chun CHINESE $ (Mr Food; Namtu Rd; dishes K1500-6000; h9am- include a rain shower. The restaurant is a 8.30pm; E) Nicknamed ‘Mr Food’, this res- peaceful place for lunch if trekking or cycling in this area, and Shan set meals are available. taurant offers Chinese dishes for Burmese

287 and Western palates, so it’s light on the Black House Coffee Shop CAFE spices. Law Chun stands out from the pack thanks to its bright and breezy interior. (23 Shwe Nyaung Pin St; coffee from K800; h6am- Draught beer is available, so it usually draws 6pm) An airy, 75-year-old teak shophouse a few backpackers by night. backed by a wide river-facing yard, this is an easy place to linger over a coffee made from Shan-grown beans, or sup a late-afternoon A Kaung Kyite BURMESE $ beer as sunset approaches. (cnr Namtu & Mandalay-Lashio Rds; mains K2000- 4000; h9am-8pm) This is the best place in La Wün Aung TEAHOUSE town for authentic Bamar food, as the cur- (Namtu Rd; h24hr) One of several teahouse ries come with an array of side dishes. Do as bars that hide the sports field but make the locals do and sample them at lunchtime amends by screening international football when they are fresh off the stove. matches. It never closes and has motorbikes available for rent. San SHAN, CHINESE $ (Namtu Rd; dishes K1500-4500, barbecue from K300; h10am-midnight; E) With its retro in- 88 Information terior and small terrace, San is popular with travellers who come for the many barbecue KBZ Bank (139 Tharaphi St; h 9am-3pm) A N o rth e rn M ya nm a r DMH rsaiinnpdakaiwnl agy&tNoi gL ahtslhifoe options and the Chinese-style mains. Dali bank with a Visa and Mastercard-friendly ATM. beer from China is available, as well as the The guesthouses are the best sources of reliable usual Burmese beers. advice about things to do and see. Another mine of local information and history is Ko Zaw Tun, Pontoon CAFE $ who is known as Mr Book, as he runs a small (Namtu Rd; mains K2000-4000; h8am-6pm; book stall (Namtu Rd; h 9am-7pm) opposite WE) This place has homemade sandwiches, the entrance to the Central Pagoda, which his family helped to build. salads, cakes and banana pancakes. It also 88 Getting There & Away offers some decent Shan coffee, but locals say the service has been a bit spotty since Buses and minibuses leave from the RC bus the foreign owner packed her bags and re- station on the Mandalay–Lashio road and the turned home. Duhtawadi Cafe on Lammataw St opposite the market. Lashio-bound buses can be picked up 6 Drinking & Nightlife from the Mandalay–Lashio road opposite the RC bus station. Mr Shake JUICE BAR The train station is in the west of town. (Namtu Rd; fruit shakes K1000-1500) It does what is says on the sign, and that is whole- some fruit shakes blended up by a friendly 88 Getting Around family, plus some naughty but nice options like oreo shakes. Also known as Yuan Yuan Trishaw rides start from K500 and they wait by Fruit Shake, this place even rustles up some the market. Bicycles (K2000) and motorbikes alcoholic options, including a zesty mojito. (K10,000) can be rented from guesthouses around town. HSIPAW TRANSPORT CONNECTIONS DESTINATION BUS MINIBUS SHARED TAXI TRAIN Bagan N/A N/A Kyaukme K17,300; 10hr; 7pm K1500; 7am N/A N/A Lashio K1000; 1hr; noon & N/A K40,000 private ordinary/upper class 3.30pm hire K300/650; 3hr; 9.40am N/A K8000; 5hr; back/front seat ordinary/upper class 7am & 9am K12,000/14,000, K700/1650; 4hr; 3.15pm Mandalay K4500-6000; 5½hr; 5.30am, 7am, 8am, whole car K50,000 ordinary/upper class Pyin Oo Lwin 10am, 7pm & 8pm K1700/3950; 13hr; Taungyi N/A N/A 9.40am K5000; 3hr; 7pm & 8pm N/A N/A K1200/2750; 7hr; 9.40am K15,500; 12hr; 3 daily 3.30-5pm N/A

288 Lashio Golf Club GOLF Lashio လားရႈိး (9/18 holes K10,000/20,000; h9am-6pm) This is quite a smart golf course for this part of POP C 174,335 / % 082 / ELEVATION 3120FT the country and offers very low rates. Add Lashio (pronounced ‘lar-show’) is a boom- K10,000 for a buggy and K5000 for a caddy ing and sprawling market town with a sig- nificant Chinese population. You’re most for nine holes. likely to come here for the airport, as it is the 4 Sleeping nearest to Hsipaw, or if you’ve managed to organise the necessary permits for the five- Most hotels in Lashio are Chinese-owned and hour drive to the Chinese border at Mu-se. overpriced compared with the better options Once the seat of an important Shan sawb- in nearby Hsipaw, so few foreigners stay here. wa (Shan prince), Lashio played a pivotal role in the fight against the Japanese in WWII as oMansu Hotel HOTEL $ (%082-25249; [email protected]; Theinni the starting point of the Burma Road, which Rd; r incl breakfast K36,000-52,000; naW) The supplied food and arms to Chiang Kai-Shek’s Kuomintang army. Little evidence of that smartest hotel in town, the Mansu also de- serves credit for being the only hotel to charge evocative history remains today, thanks to a a flat kyat rate for both locals and foreigners. disastrous 1988 fire that destroyed most of N o rth e rn M ya nm a r MSL aiagsnhhdtiasol&ayActtoi vL aitsiheiso the city’s old wooden homes. Rooms have some decorative flourishes, flat- screen TVs and slick new bathrooms. Deluxe 1 Sights & Activities rooms are more like mini-­suites. A few decrepit old wooden buildings and Lashio Motel MOTEL $ an eye-catching central mosque aren’t quite (%082-23702; [email protected]; r incl enough to bring a photogenic quality to pre- breakfast US$30-35; aW) This 49-room ho- dominantly concrete central Lashio. However, tel is a hangover from the earlier days of the pre-dawn morning market is particularly MHT government-owned properties, but is endearing when many vegetable sellers light in reasonable shape after some renovations. their wares with flickering candles. Baby-blue bathrooms have been upgraded, Maha Bodayaong BUDDHIST TEMPLE as have the TVs, and rates include breakfast. (မဟာေဗာဓရ)ုံ If you walk towards the Hsi- Ya Htaik Hotel HOTEL $ paw bus stand you’ll pass the pretty 1994 Maha Bodayaong temple, whose unrefined (%082-22655; [email protected]; Bogyoke Rd; s US$35-55, without bathroom US$15; aW) seven-storey church-like tower offers decent The only place in Lashio where you’ll find townscape views, assuming you can find a monk who’ll let you climb it. a budget bed. The cheapest rooms are per- fectly acceptable, but the shared bathrooms have squat toilets and tiny showers. More Mahamyatmuni Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE expensive rooms are much bigger and come (မဟာျမတမ္ နု ဘိ ရု ား; Lanmataw St) F Be- with a somewhat smarter trim. tween the large main market and the Nann- haewon Amusement Park is the eye-catching 5 Eating Mahamyatmuni Paya, an open-sided pavil- ion enshrining a dazzle-faced seated Buddha Food stalls serving Shan noodles, hotpots along the lines of Mandalay’s Mahamuni. and barbecue can be found at the junction of Theinni Rd and Bogyoke St. Many more LASHIO TRANSPORT CONNECTIONS DESTINATION BUS MINIBUS SHARED TAXI TRAIN Hsipaw K2000; 3hr, 6 daily N/A back/front seat K5000/­ ordinary/upper class Mandalay K6000; 8hr; 6 daily K10,000; 7000; 2hr; frequent K700/1650; 4hr; 5am 7hr; 4 daily Pyin Oo Lwin back/front seat K15,000/ ordinary/upper class K5500; 6hr; 6 daily N/A 17,000; 7hr; frequent K2400/5550; 16hr; 5am Taunggyi K15,000; 14hr; 2pm N/A back/front seat K12,000/ ordinary/upper class 15,000; 5hr; frequent K1900/4400; 11hr; 5am N/A N/A

289 appear after 5pm when the busy night mar- GETTING TO CHINA: ket (5pm to 9pm) gets going. MU-SE TO RUILI Ngwe Hnin Phyu SHAN $ Getting to the border While no doc- (12/8 Thukha Rd; mains K1500-4000; h10.30am- uments are required to travel to Mu-se 9pm) A great little Shan restaurant in the itself, people planning to cross the bor- middle of downtown Lashio, this place has a der need a permit from MHT, which will tabletop counter filled with 20 or more pots take 10 days to two weeks to process and pans offering a mix of Shan and Chinese and is most easily arranged via a recom- dishes. Just point and eat. The bathrooms mended tour operator. Border crossers downstairs are like a furnace if you want a will also need a pre-booked guide and free sauna. car (US$200) to make the four-hour journey from Lashio to Mu-se. Shwe Lawon CHINESE $ (Theinni Rd; mains from K2500; h9am-9pm; E) At the border You must have a Chinese The 2nd-floor terrace is swish by Lashio visa already, as they are not available at standards and the locals rate it as the best the border. Chinese food in town. It offers a generous selection of meat, fish and veggie dishes. Moving on From Ruili in China, N o rth e rn M ya nm a r MGeaotngtdioaknlgaTyhteor eL a&shAiwoay semi-regular buses run daily to Yun- 88 Getting There & Away nan’s capital, Kunming (14 hours). Lashio offers flight connections to Mandalay There are a number of eye-catching pagodas (US$90, 45 minutes, three weekly), Yangon and and a WWII cemetery containing the remains Kyaingtong, plus road and rail links to Hsipaw, of British soldiers who died fighting nearby. Pyin Oo Lwin and Mandalay. In early 2017 Myanmar’s government tem- The main bus station is a mile north of the city porarily stopped issuing permits for travel to centre. Minibuses and shared taxis leave from Mogok; check with local travel agents for the here too. latest situation. Lashio’s miniature train station is 2 miles 1 Sights northwest of the market. oCinema Hall Market MARKET The airport is 3 miles north of town. A taxi costs K3000 to the airport and K5000 when (h6-11am) As the epicentre of the gem trade heading into town. 88 Getting Around in Myanmar, Mogok has many marketplac- es for gems. The early-morning market is Three-wheel pick-ups and motorbike taxis charge known as the Cinema Hall Market, as it is K500 to K1000 for short hops around town. outside the old cinema, and involves local dealers pushing rough uncut stones. In the afternoon, the action shifts to the Paik Swae Mogok market, where the high-rollers hang out. POP C 77,609 / % 086 Paik Swae MARKET Welcome to Rubyland. Long closed to for- (ပတိ ္စြယေ္ စ်း; h1-6pm) At the afternoon eigners, the ruby-mining town of Mogok is market, there are tables for buyers and sell- now open to visitors with the necessary per- ers, while brokers mingle in between trying mits. With 90% of the world’s rubies coming to establish a sale. It’s very interesting to from Myanmar, Mogok and the surrounding witness the scene even if you are not in the area is a key hub of the ruby trade, with market for a purchase. much of the mining done by hand. Phaung Daw U Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE As well as rubies, you’ll find sapphires, emeralds, and lapis lazuli and other (ေဖာင္ေတာ္ဦးဘရု ား; h6am-6pm) F The semi-precious gems on sale in the markets. holiest of the many temples dotting the Many of the traders are Chinese or Indian. If Mogok skyline, Phaung Daw U Paya has a you’re interested in purchasing any stones, dais that conceals some ornate pedestals be sure you know what you are doing, as this encrusted with priceless gems, which are isn’t a place for rookie gem-buyers. on display in a glass case behind the seat- ed Buddha. Once a year in March, they are In addition to rubies, Mogok has a beauti- brought out for a spring equinox festival, ful mountain setting with a significant Shan which attracts thousands of the faithful. population, as well as Palaung and Lisu.

290 Pada Myar Zeidy BUDDHIST TEMPLE Mogok Motel MOTEL $$ (ပတျၱ မားေစတ)ီ F Forget the golden spire (%086-20118; Kanthayar Rd; standard/superior/ of this temple – you are up here for the classic VIP r US$40/60/90; aW) Looking rather calendar view over Mogok and its central lake, forlorn from the outside, this former gov- created from the remnants of an abandoned ernment hotel has better than expected open-pit ruby mine from the colonial period. renovated superior rooms inside. Avoid the unrenovated standard rooms for now or go British War Cemetery CEMETERY VIP with a panoramic lake view from the rooftop penthouse. F The British War Cemetery at Ywar Thar Yar, about 12 miles from Mogok, is a 5stark reminder of the remote battle sites Eating that once dotted the world during the days of the British Empire. The cemetery is rath- Many visitors end up eating at their hotel er neglected these days, but is a very atmos- restaurants, as the better hotels are a little pheric spot in the Shan Hills. The cemetery way from the centre of town. There are a contains the dead from the Third Anglo-­ handful of local restaurants around town Burmese War of 1886–93. and there’s a lively night market. N o rth e rn M ya nm a r AMcaotngidovakitliaeys to L a shio King Chaung Waterfall WATERFALL Ah Kaung Kyaik Restaurant BARBECUE $ (%09 4924 4226; Kanthayar Rd; mains K2500- (မငး္ ေခ်ာငး္ ေရတခံ နြ ;္ K2000; h7am-5pm) This 9000; h6.30am-9.30pm) Overlooking the lake pretty waterfall has been turned into a bit of a circus with the establishment of an amuse- near Mogok Motel, this is the liveliest res- taurant in town. Outside is a huge selection ment park below. Choose from bumper cars, of skewers to point at and barbecue. Inside a vomit-inducing 5-D ride and other arcade games or head straight to the waterfall instead. the menu is predominantly Chinese. It dou- bles as the town bar, with draught Myanmar 2 Activities Beer and a pretty good local spirit selection available. One of the most popular activities in Ruby- land is visiting an active gem mine. There Night Market STREET FOOD $ are both open-pit mines and underground (Kanthayar Rd; mains K500-2000; h5-9pm) mines, but open-pit mines operate in the dry Spread out along the spur road to Mogok Mo- season only, as they are flooded in the wet tel, this is a bit of a social hub for the Mogok season. Underground mines operate year- community after dark. Steam and smoke rises round, but it is only possible to get access to into the cooling air and locals chow down on enlarged tunnels above ground. Permission barbecue, noodles, dim sum and more. is required from Myanmar Gem Enterprises, arranged by your local guide. Lu Htu Restaurant ASIAN $ (%086-20399; Bogyoke St; mains K2000-7000; 4 Sleeping h7am-9pm) Located on the main street, this is a popular lunchtime stop for Chinese clas- oKingbridge Hotel HOTEL $$ sics and Burmese curries. The small road- (%086-20088; www.kingbridgehotel.com; Mint- adar Quarter; r US$75-200; naWs) Built side diner is more atmospheric than the new hangar-like hall out the back. over a hillside on the edge of town, this is the most stylish hotel in Mogok. Rooms are U Bein Tea Shop TEAHOUSE $ (Paik Swae Market; mains K250-1000; h7am- extremely spacious and include large bath- 6pm) This popular Burmese teahouse is a rooms with tubs and rain showers. Cable TV is on tap, plus there’s a minibar and safe. great place to observe the Paik Swae gem Facilities include an impressive infinity pool market and some deals are even made over for laps and a reliable restaurant. or under the tables. Piping hot teas and homemade cakes. Golden Butterfly Hotel HOTEL $$ (%094 40253 4366; www.goldenbutterflyhotel mogoke.com; Kyatpyin Rd; r US$75-120; naW) 88 Information This all-wooden resort is located on a hilltop pass about 3 miles above Mogok and is easily KBZ Bank (Bogyoke St; h 9am-3pm Mon-Fri) distinguishable by the giant golden butterfly The only ATM machine in town is located here. on the gate. The 25 rooms are set in Swiss- Sai Sein Win (% 09 25626 9867; saiseinwin510 style alpine chalets that slope down the hill @gmail.com) is a Mogok resident of 25 years and and include hot water and wi-fi access. a tour guide, making him a font of knowledge on the attractions of Rubyland.

291 88 Getting There & Away ‘ethnic’ festivals. A low-rise town with a fair N o rth e rn M ya nm a r GMUepytpitetikrnyAgi nyTeahyear ewa&dAyway scattering of part-timber houses, its resi- Mogok can only be visited with an official permit dents seem keen to assist visitors, with lo- (US$40) from MHT, which takes about 10 days or cal Christians particularly eager to practise two working weeks to process. This means you their English. Quiet at the best of times, the effectively have to travel here in a private car with town is especially sleepy on Sundays when an approved guide, so two-day packages quickly the churches fill up. Few foreigners make it run into several hundreds of dollars for the trip here, and those who do are mostly mission- from Mandalay or Pyin Oo Lwin. Best is probably aries or NGO workers. to combine the two and make a loop from Man- dalay to Pyin Oo Lwin via Mogok. Book through a 1 Sights reputable agent in Yangon or Mandalay. The town sprawls for miles, but the central It takes about six hours to Mogok from Mandalay area is a manageably compact grid. Walking (124 miles), four hours from Shwebo (99 miles) out of the train station, Waing Maw St heads and four hours from Pyin Oo Lwin (82 miles). The east, reaching the river bank in five short old road via Kyaukme is not in the best of condi- blocks. Parallel but four blocks further north tion, and so is less frequently used these days. is Zei Gyi Rd, the junction marked by one of Myitkyina’s two clock towers. Zei Gyi runs Should travel restrictions be lifted at some east to the market and river, west across point, local transport prices from Mogok include the tracks passing very close to the YMCA Mandalay (car front/back K13,000/10,000), (follow the tracks north), the Hotel United Pyin Oo Lwin (minivan, K8500) and Shwebo (car (second block then north) and plentiful res- front/back K12,000/10,000). There is usually taurants. Parallel to Ze Gyi, and four blocks a surcharge for uphill sectors from Mandalay further north, Si Pin Thar Yar St also cross- and Shwebo, plus expect to be hit with a small es the railway. The main road then swerves foreigner surcharge. northwest to become Pyi Htaung Su Rd, the road to the airport and Sinbo ferry jetty. Or UPPER AYEYARWADY continue in a northerly sweep on Thakhin Phay Net St to reach the museum and, even- Snaking across Kachin State like an enor- tually, Manao Park, Jing Hpaw Thu restau- mous python, the mighty Ayeyarwady River rant and Palm Spring Resort. provides the main transport route between a series of gently interesting port towns, isolat- Produce Market MARKET ed villages and gold-panning camps. While no individual sight is jaw-dropping, the jour- (h5am-5pm) This riverside market specialises ney itself involves an immersion in local life in colourful heaps of Chinese fruit and local that many visitors find unforgettable. Unlike vegetables. Many of the latter arrive by canoe boat rides from Mandalay to Bagan, ferries and are then lugged up the rear stairway on on the upper Ayeyarwady are used almost shoulder poles. At dawn this creates an un- entirely by locals and the slow days drifting forgettable spectacle with boats gliding in along the river provide an opportunity to across shimmering golden water backed by a interact with people in a way that is often rising sun. Directly southwest is the architec- impossible on dry land. A phrase book and a turally drab Myo Ma Market (h8.30am-5pm). bottle of Grand Royal whiskey can be useful tools to help break the ice. Hsu Taung Pye Zedidaw BUDDHIST TEMPLE Note that the Ayeyarwady isn’t scenically (ဆုေတာငး္ ျပည့္ေစတေီ တာ)္ F This gilded dramatic in the way of, say, the Nam Ou in ‘wish-fulfilling’ pagoda is the town’s most neighbouring Laos, but the landscape does eye-catching religious building, sitting on reach several modest crescendos as rolling the banks of the Ayeyarwady River at the fields and distant sand banks alternate with north end of Zaw John (Strand) Rd. Oppo- forest-dappled defiles. site its stupa, a 98ft-long reclining buddha and a nearby standing equivalent were fund- ed by a Japanese soldier who served here in Myitkyina ျမစ္ႀကီးနား WWII, in part to commemorate 3400 of his POP C 243,031 / % 074 comrades who died. The capital of Kachin State, Myitkyina lacks Kachin State Cultural Museum MUSEUM much in the way of headline sights. None- (ကခ်င္ျပည္နယ္ယဥ္ေက်းမႈျပတိုက္; Yon Gyi theless it’s an engaging, multicultural place, St; US$2; h9am-4pm) Displays Kachin and home to Kachin, Lisu, Chinese and Burmese, Shan costumes and the usual assortment of and hosts two of Myanmar’s most important

292 N o rth e rn M ya nm a r US ipgphetrsAy e ya r wa d y UPPER AYEYARWADY RIVER TRIP PLANNING At the time of writing, foreigners were barred from taking IWT ferries and fast boats north from Bhamo to Myitkyina. However, foreigners can now take fast boats between Bhamo, Katha and Mandalay if the IWT schedule is too slow-paced. Several international compa- nies offer luxury cruises along the Upper Ayeyarwady, albeit rarely more than a few times a year. Which Boat? Travellers cruising the Ayeyarwady can choose between the slow IWT ferries or the much quicker fast boats. While the fast boats inevitably save a lot of time, in truth the fast boats are more uncomfortable than the IWT ferries and are often dangerously overcrowded. One such fast boat sank in 2012, prompting a ban on foreigners using the fast boats for a couple of years. IWT Ferries These two- or three-storey craft are the cheapest option and the best for interacting with locals, but they’re slow, unreliable and not very comfortable for long journeys. Routes They run three times a week between Bhamo and Mandalay (Monday, Wednesday and Friday) with stops in Shwegu, Katha, Ti-Kyaing, Tagaung and Kyaukmyaung. Ferries can be a day or more late, so don’t be in a hurry. Tickets Ticket-purchasing procedures vary by port, but foreigners always need to pay with pristine US dollar bills, sometimes at the relevant IWT office. Agency bookings aren’t possi- ble and there are no seat reservations – indeed, no seats whatsoever, just cold metal decks. Comfort and provisions You’ll generally need to sleep aboard at least one night, and may- be three nights northbound from Mandalay to Bhamo. A few simple cabins are available (US$60, shared toilet), but most folk travel deck class (maximum fare US$12), for which you’ll need your own mat and bedding. Snacks and drinks are sold aboard, but are compar- atively pricey. Food can also be bought at the boat stops. Fast Boats These are long, covered motorboats carrying between 30 and 80 passengers. Departures are regular. Routes Fast boats make daily one-day hops along the following sections, always travel- ling by day (each sector will be in a different boat): Bhamo–Shwegu–Katha and Katha–­ Mandalay. Tickets These are usually purchased just before departure, or one day before for Katha– Mandalay. Comfort and provisions The wooden bench seats are small and often partly broken. Life jackets may not be available. You’ll need to sleep at local guesthouses, which are very basic in Shwegu and Katha. Bring plenty of drinking water. You can buy food at the brief interme- diate halts. When to Go? Boats run all year between Mandalay and Bhamo. ¨¨Journeys are fastest in autumn when water levels are high. By February, sandbanks mean that the IWT ferry will have to moor overnight, adding up to a day to southbound journey times. ¨¨April is difficult due to Burmese New Year, with boats packed full of local travellers and ferries seriously overloaded. ¨¨In summer, rain and high winds can make the passage very uncomfortable.

293N o rth e rn M ya nm a r US ipgphetrsAy e ya r wa d y Where to Start & Finish? North of Mandalay there are currently only three realistic start/finish points for foreigners on the Ayeyarwady adventure: Bhamo No rail or road link to Mandalay or Myitkyina, so the only way in is by air. But ac- commodation is good and Bhamo to Katha is the most popular single section of river due to the (brief) drama of the second defile. Shwegu, in between Bhamo and Katha, is an offbeat highlight. Katha Popular for its George Orwell connections. Some people like to travel by boat be- tween Katha and Mandalay. Four daily trains also connect with Mandalay, albeit some at antisocial times and from the railhead of Naba about 16 miles away. River scenery south of Katha is initially lovely, but there’s no easy jump-off point till Kyaukmyaung. Kyaukmyaung Getting off at this interesting pottery town makes sense if you’re heading for Bagan, which you can reach across country via Shwebo, Monywa and Pakokku. Continu- ing by boat to Mandalay you’ll pass Mingun, but IWT ferries won’t stop there. How Long Will It Take? The minimum time from Bhamo to Mandalay by IWT ferry will be two to three days, as- suming the boats are running to schedule. You can save time by jumping ship at Katha and catching the express boat or train to Mandalay. Bear in mind that it takes two days longer to travel northbound, upriver, than it does going in the other direction. How Much Will It Cost? IWT ferries are far cheaper than the other options. A deck ticket from Bhamo to Mandalay is US$12 (about K17,000), whereas the express boat from Katha to Mandalay alone costs K25,000. What to See Travelling between Bhamo and Shwegu, the scenery reaches a modest climax in the short second defile where the Ayeyarwady passes through a wooded valley with a rocky cliff face at one point, often described misleadingly as a gorge. IWT ferries tend to travel the section south of Katha in the dark, but this stretch has some of the Ayeyarwady’s more appealing landscapes, with several pagoda-topped hills and thatched villages. The first stop is Ti-Kyaing (pronounced ‘t’chine’; Htigyaing) where on the riverfront a double row of thatched wooden stilt houses leads north from the jetty, a monastery hill rises directly above and a large Buddha reclines on the next hill northeast. If and when foreigners are again allowed to take the river route between Bhamo and Myitkyina, it is necessary to spend a night in the delightfully carless riverside village of Sinbo. Founded as a teak station for the Scottish firm Steel Brothers, Sinbo is a neat grid of unpaved streets, the mostly wood and part-timber houses set amid coconut and toddy palms. There are no must-see sights, but river views are mesmerising from the muddy lane that climbs between the trio of old stupas and the 1919 British Officers’ Bungalow at the south end of town. Buying Provisions Even if you don’t disembark along the way, you’ll have no problem meeting the people who live there. The IWT ferries and fast boats are the principal source of income for many people residing along the banks of the Ayeyarwady, and the moment they come into sight, villagers jump into their wooden longboats laden with everything from home-cooked cur- ries and grilled fish to beer and cigarettes to sell to the passengers. Others wade out to the ferries, their wares balanced precariously on their heads. These impromptu markets not only make great photo opportunities, but also are generally cheaper and tastier than the monotonous diet of noodles and oily curries sold aboard the IWT ferries. And you’ll soon get used to shopping on water.

294 premium at this time. Observers get into the festival mood by drinking copious quantities MYIT-SON of rice beer. Held on and around 10 January, Kachin State Day. About 25 miles north of Myitkyina, Myit-Son (ျမစဆ္ )ုံ marks the point 4 Sleeping where the Mayhka and Malikha Rivers come together to form the Ayeyarwady. In Myitkyina, nowhere with ‘Guesthouse’ in It’s considered a local ‘beauty spot’, its name accepts foreigners, but the YMCA although it’s not the most picturesque doubles as the closest thing to a hostel. location on the Ayeyarwady. There are now several upmarket hotels in town. The confluence is distantly over- looked by a series of rough snack places Xing Xian Hotel HOTEL $ and teahouses, a big dumpling-shaped (%074-22281; [email protected]; golden pagoda and a traditional Kachin 127 Shan Su North; r US$16-33; a) Two giant longhouse rebuilt as a ‘cultural emblem’. vases welcome you into this quiet, friendly, long-standing and centrally located hotel. The road north of Myitkyina (bound Even the cheapest rooms are spacious and eventually for Putao) has been partlyN o rth e rn M ya nm a r UMF epyspitetikrvyaAi lnyseay&aErvweandtys well equipped, adding up to one of the better rebuilt, but the last 7 miles to Myit-Son budget deals in town. are horrendously bumpy. You’ll need a photocopy of your passport and visa to YMCA HOSTEL $ hand to a police checkpoint en route. (%074-23010; [email protected]; YMCASt; A motorbike/taxi from Myitkyina costs r US$10-28; naW) Budget prices and help- around K20,000/50,000 return (1½ ful English-speaking staff ensure that the 10 hours each way). rooms here book up fast. Conditions, how- ever, are pretty basic. The cheapest rooms, instruments, farming tools and ethnological without bathrooms or air-con, are especially artefacts. There are English captions. grungy, so it is worth investing US$15 and Aung Ze Yan Aung Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE up for a private bathroom. No breakfast, but (ေအာင္ေဇရနေ္ အာင္ဘုရား) F Just east of free tea and coffee. the airport, this pagoda is noteworthy for its arcing ranks of about 1000 little buddhas sit- Hotel United HOTEL $ (%074-22085; [email protected]; ting in the grounds. 38 Thit Sa St; s/d/tr US$30/35/45; aW) A re- z Festivals & Events liable old-timer, United has 36 well-kept rooms. Doubles and twins include a shower, Lisu New Year CULTURAL while family rooms have a bathtub. Friendly Started in 2011, this big three-day bash staff speak some English. unites Lisu folks from all across Kachin State and Xishuangbanna (China) in a very colourful, if comfortably slow-moving fair. oHotel Nan Thida HOTEL $$ (%074-22362; [email protected]; cnr The event is entirely untouristy, unless you Strand & Zaw Jun Rds; r incl breakfast US$40-60; count the many costumed Lisu villagers snapping photos of one another, as the var- naW) Recently taken over by the owners of the Putao Hotel, the rooms in the main ied regional Lisu costumes are markedly building are spectacularly spacious and different. Highlights include barefoot climb- ing of a knife tower and have-a-go stalls to come with impressive and colourful Kachin motifs all over the walls. A rain shower in test your prowess on a traditional crossbow. the slick bathrooms completes the picture. It Held before the February full moon. overlooks the Ayeyarwady River next to Hsu Taung Pye Zedidaw. Manao Festival CULTURAL Originally a way to propitiate the local nat, Hotel Madira HOTEL $$ this is now a nationally important gather- ing of the six Kachin tribes for feasting and (%074-21119; www.hotelmadira.com; 510 Pyay- htaungsu Rd; r US$42-74; naW) Kachin- costumed dances. It’s performed in Manao owned, this classy hotel offers quality rooms park (north of centre), where the large Na- tive American–style totem poles remain in and service at an affordable price. The rooms are big and bright, plus there’s even a place year-round. Accommodation is at a

295 gym if you want a workout. It’s on the road Italian N’Dream CAFE $ into town from the airport. (%094-2105 2226; 17 Myo Thit St; cakes K500- 2000; h7am-9pm; aW) This cosy little Hotel Myitkyina HOTEL $$ corner cafe serves cheap and cheerful home- (%074-21306; www.hotelmyitkyinakachin.com; 111 Si Pin Tar Yar St; r US$45-80; naW) One of the made cakes and locally produced ice cream, which isn’t world-beating but is good value newer hotels in town, this smart business at K1000 for two scoops. Coffees and teas are block offers clean, crisp rooms with flat- screen TV, minibar and hot-water showers. also available, all in an air-con environment. It’s about 500m north of the railway station. Night Market STREET FOOD $ (Aung San Rd & Wai Maw St; dishes K500-2000; Palm Spring Resort RESORT $$$ h4.30-9.30pm) This is a lively place to come (%074-22938; www.palmspringresort.com.mm; 7/8 Sitarpu Quarter; r/bungalow US$120/150; and street surf after about 4pm when the stalls set up, complete with Shan hotpots, naiWsc) An infinity pool overlooking steaming noodles, smoking barbecues and the Ayeyarwady River was not something we expected in provincial Myitkyina. Rooms bubbling curries. Locals come here to dine on the way home or pick up takeaway. at Palm Spring are superbly finished in teak and some include a hot tub, but it is worth N o rth e rn M ya nm a r EMUapytpiietnkrgyAi ny eaya r wa d y Mya Ayer CHINESE $$ (71 Shan Su North; mains K3000-12,000; h9am- shelling out a little extra for the bungalows 10pm; E) This is the most authentic Chinese in the lush garden. Facilities include a river- view restaurant and a small gym. option in a town with a sizeable Chinese population. The big menu includes some 5 Eating spicy hot and sour dishes from Szechuan, making it a great place to dine in communal Traditionally, Kachin food uses less oil than Chinese style. Burmese cuisine. Classic dishes include chekachin (steamed chicken pasted with Kiss Me BURMESE $$ spices and wrapped in a banana leaf), sipa (Zaw John Rd; dishes K2000-10,000; h6am-9pm; (freshly steamed vegetables sprinkled with WE) A hotspot for Myitkyina’s youngsters, sesame powder) and nakoo-che (hot-sour this riverside pavilion turns out some fine fish with bamboo shoots). Wash it down food. Try the gyin tok (a crunchy ginger with kaung-ye, a cloudy semi-sweet pink- salad) or the zesty curries. There are fresh brown beer made from sticky rice. shakes and juices too, but no alcohol is served if you are planning a sundowner, as A wide range of standard, accessible eat- it is curiously located in the grounds of Hsu eries are along Zaw Gyi St, west of the rail Taung Pye Zedidaw. tracks. oJing Hpaw Thu BURMESE $ Bamboo Field Restaurant ASIAN $$ (dishes K2000-5000; h9am-10pm) Be sure to head out to this attractive riverside restau- (313 Pyi Htaung Su Rd; mains K3000-10,000; h9am-10pm; WE) On the main airport rant, considered the top spot for real Kachin road, this barn-like place has a rotating crew food. The specialities here are superb, tangy dried beef with a spicy dipping sauce, as well as the fish dishes and chicken or pork served in a banana leaf. No English is spoken, so MYITKYINA TRAVEL just point at the dishes that take your fancy. RESTRICTIONS A three-wheeler will charge about K5000 return from the centre of town. Or try the At the time of writing, travel to and rather bland city-centre sibling located on from Myitkyina was severely restricted Tha Khin Net Phay Rd. due to ongoing fighting between the Kachin Independence Army and the Orient Restaurant KACHIN, JAPANESE $ Myanmar military. Foreigners are barred (YMCA St; mains K2000-5000; h7am-9pm, closed from taking either buses or boats to Sun morning; E) A meeting place for Myitkyi- or from Myitkyina, meaning the only na’s tiny foreign community, the menu here way in or out of the town is by train or is an intriguing blend of local dishes, inter- plane (unless you are prepared to hire national comfort food and some unexpected an expensive private car and guide, and Japanese classics like sushi and ramen, as even then you can only travel south to the Kachin owner previously lived in Japan. Indawgyi Lake and Katha).

296 Boats leave from the Talawgyi Pier, a K5000 of singers belting out Burmese pop songs ride from town in a three-wheeler. on weekends. The menu mixes Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese with Western clas- 88 Getting Around sics. Check out the ambitious cocktail list, or sample the draught beer on tap. It shows Motorised three-wheelers (called thoun bein) English Premier League games. carrying up to four people charge K3000 to/from the airport, or K5000 to the boat jetty for Sinbo. River View Restaurant CHINESE $$ (%074-28152; mains K2000-10,000, dim sum Bicycles (K2000 per day) and motorbikes K500-1500; h6am-10pm; E) Get your morn- (K10,000 per day) can be rented at the Orient ing nourishment from this riverside terrace Restaurant next to the YMCA. joint with the tastiest dim sum in town, mak- ing it a popular breakfast stop. By night it re- invents itself as a beer garden and is a great Indawgyi Lake place to watch sunset over the Ayeyarwady အင္းေတာ္ၾကီး while nursing an ice-cold Myanmar Beer. About 110 miles southwest of Myitkyina, N o rth e rn M ya nm a r IUnpdfpoaerwrmgAayytieiLyoaankrewa d y 88 Information placid Indawgyi is the largest natural lake in Myanmar and one of the most special, serene Free maps are available at the YMCA (p294) and places in the entire country. The lakeshore Xing Xian Hotel (p294), although they are light is ringed by rarely visited Shan villages, and on any useful detail. There are now several major the surrounding Indawgyi Wetland Wildlife banks in Myitkyina with ATMs. Sanctuary provides a habitat for around 200 Aya Bank (64 Bogyoke Aung San Rd; h 9am- species of birds, including shelducks, pin- 3pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) ATM that accepts tails, kingfishers, herons, egrets, Myanmar international debit and credit cards. peacocks and the rare sarus crane, the world’s KBZ Bank (Munkhrain Rd; h9am-3pm Mon- tallest flighted bird. Very remote and tranquil, Fri) Main branch of KBZ with a Visa/Master- it’s a great place to kick back for a few days. card-friendly ATM. Snowland Tours (% 074-23499; www.snowl- 1 Sights & Activities andmyanmar.com; Wai Maw St) Two blocks east of the station, this helpful agency with Eng- Shwe Myitsu Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE lish-speaking staff can book flights and arrange customised tours. (ေရမႊ ဥဴၨ ဘရု ား; h6am-6pm) The mystical Shwe Myitsu Paya, on an island off Nam Tay vil- lage, seems to float on the surface of the lake. The central, gilded stupa was constructed in 88 Getting There & Away 1869 to enshrine Buddha relics transported here from Yangon. It costs K1000 for a boat At the time of writing, foreigners were only to the island from the nearby pier. Women allowed to arrive and leave Myitkyina by plane or are not allowed to enter the temple itself. train, or by private car with a guide, and only to Pilgrims visit in droves for the Shwe My- the south (Indawgyi Lake and Katha). itsu Pwe, held during the week before the full moon of Tabaung (March), at which Myitkyina’s airport is a couple of miles from time the lake waters are low enough for a the town centre. A three-wheeler costs K3000. walk along a seasonal causeway to the pago- Air-conditioned taxis are available for K5000 per da. The temple is about 7 miles from Lonton. person. On arrival at the airport, you will need to Head 5 miles north and then turn off east present your passport to the immigration police. The train station is close to the clock tower in the centre of town. MYITKYINA TRANSPORT CONNECTIONS DESTINATION AIR TRAIN N/A Bhamo US$75; 1hr ordinary/upper class K900/1750; 5hr; 4 daily depending on class K4150-11,350; 24hr; 4 daily Hopin (for Indawgyi Lake) N/A K1600-4900; 12hr; 4 daily N/A Mandalay US$85; 70min; daily N/A Naba (for Katha) N/A Putao US$100; 1hr; daily Yangon US$160; 2hr 40min; daily

297 towards the lake at the village of Nam Tay, forgettable overnight in Hopin. It costs K1300 where you see a large sign in Burmese script. for an upper-class seat south to Naba (for Ka- tha), K1750 for an upper-class seat to Myitkyina, Inn Chit Thu Tourism Centre KAYAKING or K9000 for a sleeper to Mandalay. (h7am-6pm) Just north of the Indaw Ma- har Guesthouse, the Inn Chit Thu Tourism Group is a locally run organisation that puts Bhamo (Banmaw) ဗန္းေမာ္ its profits into community projects. It rents out kayaks (K15,000 per day), which are a POP C 58,696 / % 074 great way to explore the lake. You can also rent bicycles here (K7000 per day) to explore For many travellers, Bhamo (‘ba-more’) used the pretty villages around the lake, including to be a staging post on the river journey to the picturesque village of Lwemun. Myitkyina or Mandalay. However, with riv- er travel north to Myitkyina not currently 4 Sleeping & Eating permitted, it’s rather fallen off the map in recent years. If you do make it here, you’ll There’s not a whole lot of choice when it discover one of Myanmar’s more relaxed N o rth e rn M ya nm a r BUS lhpepaeemproi nA(ygBea&ynaEmraawtiwan)dgy comes to accommodation around Indawgyi and attractive towns. The central riverfront Lake, as only one guesthouse in Lonton is is especially lively on Friday, when villag- approved to host foreigners. ers flood in for the market. It’s lined with several old stained-teak houses and is over- There is a handful of simple local res- hung with magnificent mature ‘rain trees’, taurants located opposite the Inn Chit Thu so named because their lovely pink flowers Tourism Centre where you can get basic bloom in the monsoon season. meals cooked on a wood stove, including fish curry. Mercifully cold Myanmar Beer is 1 Sights also available. The stall opposite Indaw Ma- har Guesthouse offers ‘Genius Coffee’ in a It is more about the languid riverside atmos- French press and homemade American-style phere than the sights in Bhamo, but there pancakes for breakfast. are a couple of attractive temples. Indaw Mahar Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ At the southern end of the riverfront (%097-325 9692; r K10,000) The only licensed are dealerships selling great stacks of clay- guesthouse in the Indawgyi Lake area is in pots including simple water carriers from the village of Lonton on the lake’s south- Shwegu and giant glazed amphorae from western shore. Indaw Mahar is near the end Kyaukmyaung. Two short blocks east then of the village close to the army checkpoint one north on Lammataw Rd brings you and has eight very simple rooms in a stilt to the main market (Thiri Yadana), from building right at the water’s edge. which Sinbyushin St leading west becomes the main road to Myitkyina and China. It 88 Getting There & Away quickly passes Post Office St (for Grand Ho- tel, turn right after one block), the pre-dawn TAXI & PICK-UP TRUCK vegetable market and Letwet Thondaya Rd From Hopin, there is a good new road to Lonton (for the Friendship Hotel, turn left after the (one hour) and Indawgyi Lake. A taxi will cost second block). Around 500m further is the about K25,000 one way. Motorbike taxis are large, photogenic complex of Theindawgyi available for K10,000 to K15,000, depending on Paya. your negotiating skills, although some Indawgyi Lake residents may take you for as little as K6000 Shwe Kyina Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE if they are heading home. Overloaded pick-ups leave a few times a day (K4000, two hours or (ေရၾႊ ကးီ နားမဟာေစတီေတာ)္ About 3 miles more), but are slow as they stop to drop off goods. north of town, beyond the military enclave, the historic Shwe Kyina Pagoda has two A very rough road continues all the way to gold-topped stupas and marks the site of the Khamti via the casino-filled jade-mining boom 5th-century Shan city of Sampanago (Bha- town of Hpakant (Pakkant), but foreigners can’t mo Myo Haung, Old Bhamo). Almost noth- go anywhere beyond Nyaungbin without hard- ing remains of the old city, though locals to-score permits. remember numerous remnant bricks and posts remaining into the 1950s. TRAIN Theindawgyi Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE Four daily Myitkyina–Mandalay trains stop in Hopin, which is roughly halfway between My- (သမိ ္ေတာ္ၾကီးဘရု ား; Sinbyushin St) F itkyina and Katha. Time your arrival to avoid a Around 4 miles from town is the large,

298 past the southern end of the riverfront in a photogenic complex of Theindawgyi Paya, strip of lively restaurants. which features a gilded stupa with an elon- gated bell-shape. It’s best admired from the Grand Hotel HOTEL $ southeast across a pond lined with concrete (%074-50317, in China 0086-692 688 1816; Post monk statues. Office Rd; r US$20-35; a) Grand, indeed, is its Bamboo Bridge BRIDGE modern lobby and blue-glass facade, but the (return toll with bicycle K500) It is worth check- rooms are altogether more down-to-earth ing out this rickety but spectacular bamboo and rather austere. Keen staff and some bridge that allows you to cross the wide Tap- English spoken. in River. 5 Eating 2 Activities Sut Ngai BURMESE $ For a nice bicycle ride continue west over (Sinbyushin St; mains K1500-4000; h9am-9pm) the bamboo bridge for 30 minutes through Popular with the locals, there’s fine bar- timeless Sinkin village and on to a brick- becue, as well as Kachin specialities like works. From here a 10-minute stairway lime-flavoured pork served in a banana leaf climb takes you up Theinpa Hill past a med- and draught Myanmar Beer. No English spo- N o rth e rn M ya nm a r BUAchptpaiemvroitA(iyBeesaynamrawwa)d y itation hall to a stupa with very attractive ken; point at what others are eating. panoramas. Shamie Restaurant BURMESE $ Rent bicycles from Breeze Coffee & (Mingone Junction; curries K2000; h7am-10pm) Cold (Letwet Thondaya Rd; per day K2000; Excellent spot for proper curry spreads, with h8.30am-7pm), a small shop almost opposite eight different types available (including Friendship Hotel. beef, a rarity in Buddhist Myanmar). They 4 Sleeping come with rice and veggies and fantastic homemade tamarind chutney. oFriendship Hotel HOTEL $ (%074-50095,in China 0086-692 687 6670; Letwet Sein Sein CHINESE $ (Kannar Rd; mains K2000-5000; h9am-9pm; E) Thondaya Rd; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$25/30/40, The rough round tables and beer-poster decor without bathroom US$10/20/30; aW) This ho- tel is large, comfortable and excellent value promise little. But the reliable Chinese food for money. Even the shared bathrooms are is considered the best in town, and there’s well maintained, while the better rooms draught Dagon beer. It’s near the IWT office. have decent mattresses, and all qualify you for one of the best buffet breakfasts in My- 88 Information anmar. Helpful manager Moe Naing speaks fluent English and offers a useful free map. Free town maps are available for guests at the Friendship Hotel. They are extremely useful, if Hotel Paradise HOTEL $ misleadingly out of scale towards the edges. (%074-50136; [email protected]; Shwe Kyaung Kone St; s/d/tr US$15/30/35; ai) The prefix % 0086-692 denotes ‘China num- All the rooms here are a decent deal: reason- bers’, which should be dialled from another ably sized and clean with OK bathrooms. It’s China-line phone (% 0086-692 numbers) to avoid paying international call rates. BHAMO TRANSPORT CONNECTIONS DESTINATION AIR IWT FERRY FAST BOAT Katha N/A deck/cabin US$5/30; 12hr; K12,000; 6hr; 1 daily Mon, Wed & Fri Kyaukmyaung N/A N/A Mandalay US$100; 50min US$12; 24hr; Mon, Wed & Fri N/A Myitkyina US$75; 1hr deck/cabin US$12/60; 40-48hr; N/A Shwegu N/A Mon, Wed & Fri K6000; 3hr; 1 daily Yangon US$155 (via Mandalay); 2½hr N/A N/A US$5; 6hr; Mon, Wed & Fri N/A