Lonely Planet Myanmar (Burma) (Country Travel Guide)

this, evergreen coniferous, subalpine snow forest and alpine scrub. Along 399E n vi ro n m e nt & Wi ld li fe Natio n al Parks the Rakhine and Tanintharyi coasts are tidal forests in river estuaries, la- Find out more goons, tidal creeks and low islands. Such woodlands are characterised by about Myanmar’s mangroves and other coastal trees that grow in mud and are resistant to rivers and the sea water. Beach and dune forests, which grow along these same coasts environmental above the high-tide line, consist of palms, hibiscus, casuarinas and other problems they tree varieties that can withstand high winds and occasional storm-sent face, including waves. dams, at Burma Rivers Network The country’s most famous flora includes an incredible array of fruit (www.burmariver trees, more than 25,000 flowering species, a variety of tropical hard- snetwork.org), an woods, and bamboo. Cane and rattan are also plentiful. umbrella group of organisations. Endangered Species The documentary Of some 8233 known breeding species (of which 7000 are plants) in My- Of Oozies and anmar, at least 103 of these (animals, birds and plants) are endangered, including the flying squirrel, tiger, Irrawaddy dolphin and three-striped Elephants and an box turtle. Both the one-horned (Javan) rhinoceros and the Asiatic two- episode of BBC’s horned (Sumatran) rhinoceros are believed to survive in very small num- bers near the Thai border in Kayin State. The rare red panda (or cat bear) Wild Burma: was last sighted in northern Myanmar in the early 1960s but is thought Nature’s Lost to still live in Kachin State forests above 6500ft. Kingdom feature the vet Khyne U Deforestation poses the greatest threat to Myanmar’s biodiversity, Mar, known as but even in areas where habitat loss isn’t a problem, hunting threatens ‘the elephant lady to wipe out the rarer animal species. Wildlife laws are seldom enforced of Burma’ for her and poaching remains a huge problem. In June 2016, WWF Myanmar studies of captive (http://www.wwf.org.mm/en) welcomed the National League for De- working ele- mocracy (NLD) government’s plan to close down Mong La’s notorious phants in Myan- wildlife market, a well-known hub for open buying and selling of en- mar. Her research dangered species. is supported by the Rufford National Parks Foundation (www. rufford.org). By an optimistic account, about 7% of Myanmar’s land area is covered by national parks and national forests, wildlife sanctuaries and parks, and other protected areas. Sadly, such protection on paper is rarely translated into reality due to lack of adequate funding and effective policing. According to a report in the August 2012 edition of Science Magazine, 14 of Myanmar’s 36 pro- tected areas lack staff altogether, while the rest have too few rangers for effective patrolling and management. TOP PARKS & RESERVES PARK SIZE FEATURES BEST TIME TO VISIT Hkakabo Razi National 1472 sq miles Oct-Apr Park highest mountain in Myanmar; forests; 299 sq miles rare species such as takin, musk and Jan-Apr Indawgyi Wetland Wild- 642 sq miles black barking deer, and blue sheep year-round life Sanctuary 40 sq miles Nov-Apr Inle Wetland Bird Sanc- 279 sq miles one of Southeast Asia’s largest lakes; Nov-Mar tuary 50 sq miles 120 species of birds Nov-Mar Moeyungyi Wetlands Mt Victoria (Nat Ma floating agriculture; birdlife, otters, Taung) National Park turtles Popa Mountain Park 125 species of birds second-highest mountain in Myanmar; rare birds and orchids extinct volcano; unique dry-zone eco- system; monkeys

400 KIM BRIERS / SHUTTERSTOCK © E n vi ro n m e nt & Wi ld li fe E n viro n me n tal I ss u es Rufous-necked hornbill found in Myanmar In January 2016 Environmental Issues Myanmar’s Ministry of Recycling and making use of every little thing is part of most people’s daily life in Myanmar, disposability being a luxury of the rich. This said, Environmental the country is facing many challenges with regard to treatment of its pre- Conservation cious environment. and Forestry announced new Essentially no environmental legislation was passed from the time requirements for of independence in 1948 until after 1988. Government dictums, such as environmental ‘green the dry zone’ and ‘protect wildlife’, were mostly words rather than impact assess- action. Slowly, things are changing. Previously off-limit topics related ments (EIAs), to Myanmar’s environment are now covered in the media, leading, oc- with fines of up casionally, to reviews of government policy. The decision to suspend to US$5000 construction of the Myitsone Dam in September 2011 is one example for companies of this. failing to provide the necessary The 2012 foreign investment law requires environmental impact information. statements for all major investment projects. Also during 2012, the En- vironmental Conservation Law was passed, and in 2014, Environmental Conservation Rules were issued. An Environmental Conservation De- partment has been established but, as with many areas of government in Myanmar, its officers need training and overall it lacks adequate funding and technical knowledge. Deforestation Myanmar supposedly contains more standing forest, with fewer in- habitants, than any other country in Indochina. That said, it’s also disappearing faster than almost anywhere else in Asia. Under mili- tary rule the forests were plundered. Illegal logging continues and is particularly difficult to combat in the areas where civil insurrections are ongoing. At a conference in Yangon in June 2016, U Nyi Nyi Kyaw,

director general of the Ministry of Natural Resources and Environ- 401E n vi ro n m e nt & Wi ld li fe E n viro n me n tal I ss u es mental Conservation, admitted that his department was powerless to Life in the Valley stop illegal logging. of Death (2008) by Dr Alan Rab- Exports of raw timber have been banned from Myanmar since 2014, and inowitz is about at the time of research the ministry was proposing a one-year moratori- um on timber extraction by logging operations run by the government’s his efforts to Myanma Timber Enterprise (MTE), which has a monopoly on the formal save Myanmar’s timber sector. rapidly dwindling tiger population According to a 2015 report by UK-based watchdog the Environmental by setting up the Investigation Agency (EIA), Myanmar lost a total of 1.7 million hectares Hukuang Valley of forest cover from 2001 to 2013. If nothing is done, the prediction is Tiger Reserve. that 30 million hectares could be lost by 2030. One of the most troubled Organised Chaos, areas is the so-called ‘dry zone’, made up of heavily populated Mandalay, lower Sagaing and Magwe divisions. Little of the original vegetation re- a report pub- mains in this pocket (which is about 10% of Myanmar’s land, but home lished in 2015 by to a quarter of the population), due to growth in the area’s population the London-based and deforestation. Environmental Deforestation is also blamed for exacerbating damage from Cyclone Investigation Komen, a natural disaster in 2015 that forced 384,900 families to relocate Agencey (EIA; and destroyed 972,000 acres of farmland. https://eia Air & Water Pollution -international. org), documents Uncontrolled gold and other mining means that the release of pollut- surging illegal ants into rivers and the sea is steadily increasing. The most noticeable timber trade be- aspect of pollution to travellers will be the piles of non-biodegradable tween Myanmar’s waste, such as plastic bags, dumped at the edge of towns and villages Kachin State and and seen fluttering across the fields. Bans on the production and sale of China’s Yunnan polythene bags and cord exist in both Yangon and Mandalay but they Province, worth are not strictly enforced. almost half a billion dollars. Environmental experts are also concerned about the excessive use of chemical fertilisers and pesticides in agriculture and the run-off of these pollutants into the water supply. This has become an acute problem over recent years at Inle Lake, where there’s been exponential growth in the number of commercial floating farms producing vege- tables. Combined with pollution from chemical dyes used in textile processing and garbage related to increased tourism, the effect has been to turn placid Inle into a toxic pool in which fish die or struggle to survive. On top of this, the expansion of rice cultivation near the lake and the building of more hotels is draining its water supply, causing it to shrink. In November 2012 a report entitled Inlay Lake Conservation Project: SAVING THE BIG CATS In 2003, when the National Tiger Action Plan for Myanmar was published, it was reck- oned there were as few as 150 of the big cats living in the country. The vast majority of them were concentrated in the Hukaung Valley Wildlife Sanctuary, the Htamanthi Wildlife Sanctuary and the Tenasserim Range in Southern Myanmar. By 2010 this number was believed to have dropped to 85; more recent survey data is unavailable and the situation is believed to very grim. There are a few flicker of hopes, however. A 2013 expedition to Myanmar sponsored by the Smithsonian Institute and filmed by the BBC in its Wild Burma program found evidence of tigers in two separate parts of the country. The Tiger Corridor, a joint initiative between Panthera (www.panthera.org) and the Wildlife Conservation Soci- ety (www.wcs.org), also aims to create a 4660-mile-long ‘genetic corridor’ for tigers stretching from Bhutan to Malaysia, with a large part of the corridor passing through Myanmar.

402 E n vi ro n m e nt & Wi ld li fe E n viro n me n tal I ss u es A Plan for the Future was released by the Institute for International For in-depth Development-Myanmar (www.iid.org/myanmar.html). It outlines pro- posals to rehabilitate the lake by 2025, but also notes that an unchecked coverage of the rise in tourism in the area is likely to put further strain on Inle’s fragile major environ- environment. mental issues facing Myanmar, Dams & Pipelines download the report published In the last decade the authorities have embarked on a series of hy- by the Burma droelectric dam projects along the country’s major rivers, creating a Environment crescendo of economic, social and environmental problems. In a nod Working Group to public opinion in September 2011, a halt was called on the contro- (www.bewg.org), versial Myitsone Dam on the headwaters of the Ayeyarwady River in a coalition of Kachin State, a project that was being developed in conjunction with environmental China. organisations and activists working Pressure is now on the NLD government to restart construction of in the country. the 6000-megawatt-generating dam. If the project is cancelled, Myan- mar is liable to pay US$800 million to China in compensation. If work Earthrights Inter- is resumed and the dam is completed, Myanmar is looking at earning national’s Burma either the much-needed annual revenue of US$500 million from China for the power generated, or having access to that power for the country’s Project (www. electrification. earthrights.org) collects informa- In September 2013, the Indian government also cancelled its deal with tion about the Myanmar over the building of the Thamanthi Dam on the Chindwin Riv- human rights and er; if it had gone ahead, the construction of this dam would have flooded environmental parts of Tamanthi Wildlife Sanctuary and Hukaung Tiger Reserve, the situation in the habitats of several endangered species, including tigers, elephants and country, focusing the very rare Burmese roofed turtle. on large-scale dams, oil and gas Mining, Oil & Gas development, and In November 2012, locals protesting about the environmental and mining. social impact of the Letpadaung copper mine in Sagaing Region, a joint venture between a Chinese company and a Myanmar military enterprise, were subjected to a brutal police crackdown. The mine’s construction was subsequently suspended pending the investigation and conclusion of a parliamentary commission, chaired by Aung San Suu Kyi. The commission’s recommendation was that the mining com- pany resume opera­ tions, but only if certain conditions were met, such as better transparency and an environmental impact plan. In 2014 Suu Kyi accused Thein Sein’s government of ignoring the commission’s recommendations. That same year clashes between po- lice and farmers at the site left one farmer dead and dozens injured. Protestors were out in force again in May 2016, as the mining compa- ny reattempted to restart production at the site. The NLD’s position is that operations can resume once the recommendations of the inquiry commission are met, but many locals want nothing less than the mine’s cancellation. Such democratic levels of transparency are something new for My- anmar’s extractive industries. Also facing criticism for its adverse envi- ronmental impact is the Shwe Gas Project, a joint venture between the government’s Myanmar Oil and Gas Enterprise (MOGE) and Indian and South Korean companies for the underwater extraction of natural gas and oil from the Bay of Bengal and its piping across Myanmar to China. The natural gas pipeline became operational in 2013, the oil pipeline in 2014.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Survival Guide RESPONSIBLE Travel with Children. . . . . . 415 TRAVEL . . . . . . . . . . . 404 Travellers with Disabilities . . . . . . . . . 416 DIRECTORY A–Z. . . . 407 Visas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416 Volunteering. . . . . . . . . . . . 416 Accommodation. . . . . . . . . 407 Women Travellers. . . . . . . . 417 Customs Work. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 Regulations. . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 Electricity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 TRANSPORT. . . . . . . 418 Embassies & Consulates. . . . . . . . . . . . 408 GETTING THERE Etiquette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 & AWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 GLBTI Travellers. . . . . . . . . 409 Entering the Country. . . . . 418 Insurance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 Internet Access. . . . . . . . . . 409 Land. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 Legal Matters . . . . . . . . . . . 410 Sea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 Maps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 GETTING AROUND . . . . . . 418 Meditation Courses. . . . . . 410 Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 Money. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 Bicycle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419 Opening Hours. . . . . . . . . . 411 Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421 Photography. . . . . . . . . . . . 411 Bus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423 Post. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 Car & Motorcycle. . . . . . . . 424 Public Holidays. . . . . . . . . . 412 Hitching Safe Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 & Ride-Sharing. . . . . . . . . . 424 Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 413 Local Transport. . . . . . . . . . 425 Time. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414 Train. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425 Toilets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414 Tourist HEALTH. . . . . . . . . . . 427 Information. . . . . . . . . . . . . 414 Travel Agencies. . . . . . . . . . 414 LANGUAGE . . . . . . . . 431

404 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Responsible Travel In the past few years, visitors goes. If you pay for tours with principles, you could ask the have been flocking to Myan- overseas agents before arriv- following questions: mar in the millions. This has ing in Myanmar, it’s possible ¨¨Has your company vetted put a strain on the country’s that less of your money finds the work policies and already poorly functioning its way into the pockets of practices of the tourism infrastructure as well as its local citizens. business providers used on fragile environment. Read on the tour (ie level of wages to discover how best to travel However, for travel to paid, whether resources are responsibly, engage respect- certain areas of Myanmar used responsibly)? fully with locals and make a (ie those where you require ¨¨Does your company have positive impact. a travel permit and/or would any charitable programs be advised to have a guide in place to assist local Package Tours for trekking) travel agents communities and/or are a convenient way to go individuals? Travelling independently and joining a tour might be ¨¨How much interaction rather than on a package the most economical route. might I have with locals on tour will give you more con- To get an idea of how closely the tour? trol over where your money such a tour might adhere ¨¨Can I hire different guides to responsible tourism at each destination rather than travel with one guide for TOP TIPS the whole trip? Be wary of tours that treat mi- ¨¨Travel independently or in small groups rather than in nority groups as ‘attractions’. a big tour group. Goods & Services ¨¨Support small independent businesses and those that have charitable and sustainable tourism programs For all its recent positive in place. changes, Myanmar continues to be plagued by human ¨¨Spread your money around: buy souvenirs across the rights abuses, distressing lev- country and hire different guides at each destination. els of poverty, and corruption. ¨¨Contribute to local charitable causes. Critics of independent travel argue that travellers’ ¨¨Refuse to pay bribes. spending usually bottlenecks at select places. The more ¨¨Be environmentally conscious in your travel choices: places at which you spend opt for buses, trains and river cruises over flights; avoid money, the greater the num- using air-conditioning. ber of locals likely to benefit. ¨¨Be sensitive to, and respectful of, local customs and A few things to consider: behaviour: dress and act appropriately when visiting ¨¨Don’t buy all of your needs religious sites and rural villages. (bed, taxi, guide, meals) from one source. ¨¨Read up about Myanmar’s history, culture and current ¨¨Be conscious that behind- situation. the-scenes commissions are ¨¨Check out Dos & Don’ts For Tourists (www. dosanddontsfortourists.com).

405 THE PERILS OF MASS TOURISM Responsible Travel Social Interactions Myanmar’s National League for Democracy (NLD)-led government supports community-­ based tourism and welcomes visitors who are sensitive to the welfare of the people and environmental conservation, and who are keen to acquire an insight into cultural, political and social topics. In March 2016 the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism predicted six million inbound tourists for 2016, up 25% on the 4.68 million arrivals of 2015 and over seven times the 2010 total of 800,000. However, as tourism to Myanmar has exploded, the most established destinations – Bagan (Pagan), Inle and Kyaiktiyo – have struggled to cope. The situation has prompted much discussion within Myanmar about the dangers as well as the benefits of mass tourism, and how lessons can be learnt from the experience of nearby countries. A Tourism Master Plan was set out by the former government in 2013 that includes developing an ecotourism management strategy; this is supported by the current government. The management of protected areas will be strengthened, bio- diversity conserved and community-based income generation encouraged. However, as the Myanmar Centre for Responsible Business noted in a report on the issue in 2015, a lack of capacity and resources means that implementation of such poli- cies remains doubtful in the short run. The report also found that local communities are still not sufficiently engaged in decisions on tourism development. The role of NGOs such as Tourism Transpency (www.tourismtransparency.org) is key. being paid on most things Social ¨¨Think carefully before you pay for when in the Interactions accusing anyone of cheating company of a driver or guide. you or of theft. Innocent ¨¨Plan en-route stops, or Myanmar people are ex- people can suffer greatly by take in at least one off-the- tremely friendly and happy to implication. For example, a beaten-track destination, chat. Many locals, particular- bus driver can end up in very where locals are less used to ly in the more off-the-beaten hot water if you report your seeing foreigners. path parts of Myanmar, cher- camera stolen during a bus ¨¨Mix up the locations from ish outside contact because ride. where you catch taxis and they have so little. trishaws – and try to take Charity & trips with drivers who aren’t Some things to keep in Donations lingering outside tourist areas. mind: ¨¨Try to eat at different ¨¨Be respectful of local Tourism isn’t going to fix all family restaurants, and if etiquette (p409) and culture. of Myanmar’s problems, of you’re staying at a hotel, ¨¨It’s fine to raise political course, but there are some eat out often. In Ngapali questions and issues but small things you can do to Beach, for example, local be sensitive in doing so; help during your visit. restaurants are just across allow the local to direct the ¨¨Ask guesthouse owners, the road from the beach and conversation. agents, teachers and monks hotels. ¨¨Be very careful around about where you can best ¨¨Buy handicrafts directly religious topics, ie showing donate money for local from the artisans as you disrespect – however projects. travel around the country, unintentional – towards ¨¨Patronise socially or if you’re spending most Buddha could land you in responsible businesses that of your time in the same trouble. support charitable causes. location, don’t get all your ¨¨Always ask before Travellers handing out sweets, souvenirs from one shop. photographing someone – pens or money to kids on ¨¨Refuse to pay bribes. most people will happily hiking trails or outside at- ¨¨Check informed oblige but don’t assume that tractions have had a negative sources such as Tourism they will. Show them the impact (as you’ll certainly Transparency (www. image you’ve created and if see when begging kids follow tourismtransparency.org) and possible, have a print made you around a pagoda). It’s not EcoBurma (www.ecoburma. that you can give to them. the best way to contribute com) about the situation in If they have a smartphone to those in need, and many Myanmar so you can make (increasingly they will), locals will advise you not to informed choices when you might share the image give to children anyway. If you buying goods and services. digitally. want to hand out useful items, keep the following in mind:

Responsible Travel Volunteerism406 commitment – having strangers drop in and out of DOS & DON’TS their lives on short visits can be detrimental to a child’s Do emotional well-being and ¨¨Remove shoes on entering a Buddhist site or home. development. Note that some ¨¨Dress respectfully: no shorts, short skirts or exposed organisations, for example, shoulders. Friends International and ¨¨Ask before you photograph anyone. Unicef, recommend that travellers never volunteer in Don’t an orphanage. ¨¨Touch anybody on the head (including a child). ¨¨If you do volunteer, think ¨¨Pose with or sit on Buddha images. hard about what skills you ¨¨Point your feet at anyone or anything – apologise if have that will make a real you accidentally brush someone with your foot. difference to the children – working with the local staff, ¨¨Buy locally. This puts International and Unicef have for example, to teach them money into the local joined forces to educate the English is likely to have a economy, and locals are public about in their ‘Think more sustainable impact. more likely to use the gift! Before Visiting’ (www.think ¨¨Don’t volunteer at ¨¨Give only to those with childsafe.org/thinkbefore any orphanage without whom you’ve made some visiting) campaign. thoroughly researching it. Is sort of personal bond, not it regulated? Does it require to random supplicants. According to Unicef, 73% background checks on Otherwise you’ll encourage a of children in Myanmar’s volunteers? culture of begging. orphanages are not orphans. ¨¨If you want to help a begging They will have one, if not Environmental family, ask what they need. both, parents alive and they Concerns Often you can accompany will be in institutions for a them to the market and pick variety of reasons, including Ecotourism is being trum- up food (a bag of rice, some poverty and domestic vio- peted as a way forward for vegetables, some fish). lence. Many children are in Myanmar’s tourism indus- ¨¨Some items from outside danger of abuse and neglect try, but it’s an area that is the country, such as books from carers, as well as ex- plagued with problems. One and magazines, are greatly ploitation and international of the most difficult issues appreciated, though. trafficking, with those aged is how best to balance the under three most at risk. demands for economic and Volunteerism commercial development in Things to keep in mind: some of Myanmar’s poorest Life for many people in My- ¨¨Myanmar’s best areas, with environmental anmar can be quite desper- orphanages receive funding protection. Travellers can ate and its natural to feel the and support from wealthy assist in the following ways: urge to help out in some way. benefactors, and don’t need ¨¨Tread lightly and buy There are opportunities to visitors. locally. usefully volunteer (p416) and ¨¨Other respectable, but less ¨¨Avoid (and report) provide charity, but there are well endowed, orphanages instances where you difficult issues to negotiate do not ask for foreign see products or parts around this, too. volunteers, but for people of products made from to contribute much-needed endangered species. Whether it’s working with items including vitamins, ¨¨Support ecotourism children in orphanages, help- pencils and pens, and toys. ventures and hire local ing to build houses, or teach- ¨¨If a place is promoting guides when you go trekking. ing English, so-called vol- orphan tourism, then ¨¨Visit the country’s national untourism is a fast-­growing proceed with caution, as parks and protected areas. sector of the travel industry the adults may not always ¨¨Avoid adding to Myanmar’s that you’ll encounter in My- have the best interests of the growing problem of what to anmar. However, orphanage children at heart. do with litter by minimising tourism, in particular, is a ¨¨Child-welfare experts its creation, ie refrain from highly controversial develop- also recommend that any the use of plastic bags and ment and one that Friends volunteering concerning disposable plastic water children should involve a bottles. minimum three-month

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 407 Directory A–Z Accommodation BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE At the budget end of the For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet scale are hostels and family-­ run guesthouses. In more authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/myanmar­- rural destinations these burma/hotels. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as might amount to very little: recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, a spartan room with just you can book online. a mosquito net, a fan that turns off at midnight (when the generator does) and a erate homestays. Officially dollars or kyat; you can usu- cold-water shower down sanctioned B&Bs are in their ally pay in either currency. the hall. infancy (some exist in Kayin State) but more are likely to Prices quoted at budget In the midrange are pri- open up once new tourism and midrange hotels include vately run hotels and guest- laws are in place. all taxes; top-end hotel prices houses licensed to accept often don’t include up to foreigners. To gain a hotel Nearly all accommodation 20% in taxes and service licence they supposedly choices include a simple charges. Only a few hotels must keep eight rooms and breakfast in their rates. Staff currently accept credit cards. reach a certain standard. at most can also change However, the vast majority money, arrange laundry ser- There are lower rates or of places, while modern, vice (starting at K1000 per it’s possible to bargain a little follow a standard, uncreative load at budget guesthouses), at most hotels during the low template: tiled rooms with rent bikes, arrange taxis, sell season (May to October). air-con, a refrigerator and a transport tickets and find private hot-water bathroom. you local English-speaking Customs guides. Regulations In key destinations (eg Yangon, Bagan, Inle Lake, All accommodation op- For the vast majority of vis- Mandalay, Ngapali Beach) tions are required to fill in itors, clearing customs is a you’ll find high-end hotels forms that include a guest’s breeze, but it’s important to and resorts. passport and visa details. be aware of the restrictions; for further details see www. Airbnb has listings across Prices myanmarcustoms.gov.mm. Myanmar (with most in Yangon), but technically it Most hotels and guesthouses Any foreign currency in is illegal for people to op- quote prices in either US excess of US$2000 is sup- posed to be declared upon entry. Besides personal effects, visitors are permitted SLEEPING PRICE RANGES to bring duty-free: The following price ranges refer to a double room or ¨¨400 cigarettes dorm bed. ¨¨50 cigars ¨¨250g of tobacco $ less than US$50 $$ US$50–150; in Yangon US$50–200 ¨¨2L of alcoholic liquor $$$ more than US$150; in Yangon more than US$200 ¨¨150ml of perfume.

408 Directory A–Z Electricity Type G Cambodian Embassy (Map p52; It’s not a problem to bring %01-549 609; 34 Kaba Aye a camera, video camera, 230V/50Hz Pagoda Rd, Bahan) laptop or mobile phone. You Canadian Embassy (Map p42; cannot bring in antiques, Connect (when it’s working) %01-384 805; www.canadaint- pornographic materials or to the electricity supply ernational.gc.ca; 9th fl, Centre- narcotic drugs. (230V, 50Hz AC). Power point Towers, 65 Sule Paya Rd, outages occur everywhere, Kyauktada) Export Restrictions Yangon and Mandalay in- Chinese Embassy (Map p48; cluded. Many smaller towns %01-221 281; http://mm.china- A wide variety of antiques have short scheduled peri- embassy.org/eng; 1 Pyidaungsu cannot legally be taken out ods for electricity, usually a Yeiktha Rd, Dagon) of the country, including the few hours in the afternoon French Embassy (Map p42; following: and evening (power always %01-212 520; www.amba ¨¨prehistoric implements seems to be available if My- france-mm.org; 102 Pyidaungsu and artefacts anmar TV is airing a premier- Yeiktha Rd, Dagon) ¨¨fossils ship soccer game!). Many German Embassy (Map p48; ¨¨old coins hotels and shops run gener- %01-548 952; www.rangun. ¨¨bronze or brass weights ators 24 hours, others keep diplo.de; 9 Bogyoke Aung San (including opium weights) them on only a few hours (eg Museum Rd, Bahan) ¨¨bronze or clay pipes 6pm to midnight, and a few Indian Embassy (Map p38; ¨¨inscribed stones hours in the morning). %01-391 219; www.india ¨¨inscribed gold or silver embassyyangon.net; 545-547 ¨¨historical documents Embassies & Merchant St, Kyauktada) ¨¨religious images Consulates Indonesian Embassy (Map ¨¨sculptures or carvings p42;%01-254 465; http://kbri- in bronze, stone, stucco or Most foreign embassies and yangon.org; 100 Pyidaungsu wood consulates are based in Yan- Yeiktha Rd, Dagon) ¨¨frescoes (even fragments) gon. Check the government’s Israeli Embassy (Map p52; ¨¨pottery Ministry of Foreign Affairs %01-515 155; http://embassies. ¨¨national regalia and (www.mofa.gov.mm) for gov.il/yangon; 15 Kabaung Rd, paraphernalia. more information. Hlaing) Australian Embassy (Map p38; Italian Embassy (Map p48; Electricity %01-251 810; www.burma. %01-527 100; www.ambyangon embassy.gov.au; 88 Strand Rd, .esteri.it/ambasciata_yangon; 3 Type C Kyauktada) Inya Myaing Rd, Bahan) Bangladeshi Embassy (Map Japanese Embassy (Map 230V/50Hz p48;%01-515 275; www.bdem p48;%01-549 644; www. bassyyangon.org; 11B Than Lwin mm.emb-japan.go.jp; 100 Nat Rd, Kamayut) Mauk Rd, Bahan) Korean Embassy (Map p52; %01-527 142; http://mmr.mofa. go.kr/english/as/mmr/main/ index.jsp; 97 University Ave Rd, Bahan) Lao Embassy (Map p42;%01- 222 482; A1 Diplomatic Quar- ters, Taw Win St, Dagon) Malaysian Embassy (Map p42; %01-220 249; www.kln.gov. my/web/mmr_yangon; 82 Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Rd, Dagon) Netherlands Embassy (Map p48;%01-230 6046; http:// myanmar.nlembassy.org; 43C Inya Myaing Rd, Bahan) New Zealand Embassy (Map p48;%01-230 5805; yangon

409 [email protected]; 43 Inya PRACTICALITIES D i rec to ry A–Z E t i que t t e Myiang Rd, Bahan) Philippine Embassy (Map p38; Newspapers & Magazines Read the English-language %01-558 149; 7 Gandamar St, newspaper Myanmar Times (www.mmtimes.com) pub- Yankin) lished Monday to Friday, and the weekly current affairs Singapore Embassy (Map p48; magazines Frontier Myanmar (http://frontiermyanmar. %01-559 001; www.mfa.gov.sg/ net) and Mizzima Weekly (http://mizzima.com). content/mfa/overseas mission/yangon.html; 238 Radio Bring a short-wave radio and listen to BBC and Dhama Zedi Rd, Bahan) VOA broadcasts. Sri Lankan Embassy (Map p42; %01-222 812; www.slembyan- TV Watch satellite TV – you’ll often find CNN, BBC gon.org; 34 Taw Win St, Dagon) World, Al Jazeera, and other news and entertainment Thai Embassy (Map p48;%01- channels at hotels. 226 721; www.thai embassy.org/yangon/en; 94 Weights & Measures Petrol is sold by the gallon; dis- Pyay Rd, Dagon) tances are in miles, not kilometres; 1 Burmese viss or UK Embassy (Map p38;%01- 100 tical = 3.5lb; 1 gaig = 36in. 370 867, 01-370 865; www.gov. uk/government/world/burma; Smoking Banned in most indoor public places, indoor 80 Strand Rd, Kyauktada) workplaces and on public transport. It is allowed in ho- US Embassy (Map p52;%01- tels, restaurants, cafes and bars. However, some hotels 536 509; http://burma.usem- and guesthouses are totally nonsmoking, others have bassy.gov; 110 University Ave, designated smoking floors. Kamayut) Vietnamese Embassy (Map GLBTI Travellers see Colours Rainbow (www. p48;%01-511 305; www.viet- colorsrainbow.com). Also namembassy-myanmar.org/vi; ¨¨Homosexuality is seen as a check Utopia-Asia (www. 70-72 Than Lwin Rd, Bahan) bit of a cultural taboo, though utopia-asia.com), which most locals are known to be publishes a gay guide to Etiquette tolerant of it, both for men Southeast Asia, including and women. Myanmar. Myanmar etiquette is based ¨¨‘Carnal intercourse against ¨¨Agencies offering gay- on respect for others. nature’ is legally punishable friendly trips to Myanmar Greetings Both hands may with imprisonment of up to include Purple Dragon (%in be used to shake hands, and 10 years. The law is rarely Thailand +66-2-236 1776; www. Myanmar women may prefer to enforced, but it renders gays purpledrag.com) and Gay simply smile and make a slight and lesbians vulnerable to Tours Myanmar (%in India nod. Don’t kiss in public. police harassment. +91-11-4100 3982; http://www. Eating The right hand is used ¨¨Gay and transgendered gaytourmyanmar.com). for eating, the left for personal people in Myanmar are rarely hygiene. ‘out’, except for ‘third sex’ Insurance Temples, shrines & mosques spirit mediums who channel Dress conservatively at all the energies of nat spirits. A travel-insurance policy is religious sites, ie no revealing ¨¨Some Buddhists believe a very wise idea. There is a clothes, and legs and shoulders that those who committed wide variety of policies and covered. Shoes and shocks sexual misconduct (such as your travel agent will have should be removed before adultery) in a previous life recommendations. entering the religious site. Also become gay or lesbian in refrain from taking photos of this one. Worldwide travel insur- Buddha statues. ¨¨Public displays of affection, ance is available at www. Heads and feet Don’t touch whether heterosexual or lonelyplanet.com/travel-in- people on the head and avoid homosexual, are frowned surance. You can buy, extend pointing your feet at people or upon; a local woman walking and claim online anytime – religious objects when sitting. with a foreign man will raise even if you’re already on the Bargaining Gentle hagglling more eyebrows than two road. in markets and taxis is OK, but same-sex travellers sharing generally not in shops. a room. Internet Access ¨¨For more information on GLBTI issues in Myanmar Wi-fi is the norm in big cities; most hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and cafes will

410 D i rec to ry A–Z Lega l M at t e r s Books (www.itmb.com) and most of the 10 days, save for have this and it’s usually East View Map Link (www. interviews with meditation free. There are also plenty of maplink.com). teachers. internet cafes (usually used ¨¨Daily practice begins at for online gaming). We’ve Myanmar-based Design 3am; breakfast is at 5.30am even found internet access in Printing Services (www. and lunch at 10am. relatively remote locations, dpsmap.com) prints useful Myanmar’s most famous such as Mrauk U. tourist maps of Myanmar, monastery for meditation However, with low band- Yangon, Mandalay and courses is Mahasi Medita- width and power outages it Bagan; sometimes these tion Centre (Map p48; %01- can often be a frustrating maps are sold locally for 541 971; www.mahasi.org.mm; exercise to send and receive about K1000 or given away 16 Thathana Yeiktha Rd, Bahan) large files over the internet, by tour agencies, at hotels in Yangon. There is also particularly in rural areas. and international gateway Dhamma Mandala (%09 airports. For more detailed 204 4348, 02-39694; www. Legal Matters country-wide maps, contact mandala.dhamma.org; Yaytagon Myanmar Information Man- Hill) near Mandalay. You have absolutely no legal agement Unit (MIMU; www. recourse in case of arrest or themimu.info). Money detainment by the authori- ties, regardless of the charge. Meditation ATMs If you are arrested, you would Courses most likely be permitted to There are now hundreds of contact your consular agent Several monasteries around ATMs across the country, in Myanmar for possible the country (in particular with most clustered in tour- assistance. in Yangon and Mandalay) ist centres, such as Yangon, run courses on satipat- Bagan, Mandalay and Inle If you purchase gems or thana vipassana (insight-­ Lake. There is a withdrawal jewellery from persons or awareness meditation), fee of K5000 and a with- shops that are not licensed where foreigners are wel- drawal limit of K300,000 per by the government, you run come. Beginners are typically transaction. the risk of having them con- expected to sign up for a fiscated if customs officials 10-day residential course Don’t rely on ATMs, find them in your baggage to learn the basics. Longer though. The machines don’t when you’re exiting the stays (and special visas cov- always work. Also make sure country. ering them) are also availa- you keep records of ATMs ble. Expect the following: transactions in case of any Drug trafficking crimes are ¨¨The courses are open to all problems. punishable by death. and free; voluntary donations according to your means Banks Maps are accepted at the end of retreats. The most useful of the local The best available is the ¨¨Meditators must follow banks (open 9am to 5pm 1:2,000,000 Periplus Edi- eight precepts, including Monday to Friday) are CB tions Myanmar Travel Map, abstaining from food after and KBZ, both of which now a folded map with plans for noon and leading an austere issue and accept Master- Mandalay, Yangon and the lifestyle (no smoking or Card and Visa cards and Bagan area, or the ITMB drinking; sleeping on have ATMs in which you can 1:1,350,000 Myanmar basic beds often in shared use overseas-issued cards (Burma). Another choice accommodation). for a K5000 charge per is the 1:1,500,000 Nelles ¨¨You will be expected to transaction. Myanmar, a folded map on keep a ‘noble silence’ for coated stock. Good places Black Market to buy maps online include International Travel Maps and Do not change money with people on the street. EATING PRICE RANGES Credit Cards & Travellers Cheques The following prices ranges refer to a two-course meal with a soft drink. Travellers cheques are use- $ less than K5500; in Yangon K10,000 less. However, in Yangon and $$ K5500–16,500; in Yangon K10,000–25,000 other major tourist spots $$$ more than K16,500; in Yangon K25,000 you’ll increasingly find credit cards accepted by top-end hotels, restaurants and some shops.

411 Currency Yangon and Mandalay air- Temples A small donation is D i rec to ry A–Z O pen i ng H ou r s ports, Bogyoke Aung San appreciated if a caretaker is Myanmar remains a pre- Market and Shwedagon Paya required to unlock a temple. dominantly cash economy. in Yangon. The national currency, the Taxes & Refunds kyat (pronounced ‘chat’), Never hand over your is divided into the following money until you’ve received At many shops, hotels, banknotes: K50, K100, K200, the kyat and counted them. restaurants, cafes and bars K500, K1000, K5000 and Honest money changers will you will pay 5% government K10,000; you’ll rarely come expect you to do this. Con- commercial tax (the local across the smaller denomi- sidering that K10,000 is the equivalent of VAT). At some nations and if you do they’re highest denomination, you’ll places you will also pay a often in tatters. get a lot of notes. Money 10% private service tax. changers give ready-made, The US dollar acts as an rubber-banded stacks of a There are no refunds to alternative currency with hundred K1000 bills. It’s a travellers on the commercial most guesthouses and good idea to check each note tax paid on goods exported hotels quoting prices and individually. Often you’ll find from Myanmar. accepting payment in the one or two (or more) with a greenback. Prices in our cut corner or taped tears, Opening Hours reviews alternate between neither of which anyone will kyat (K) and US dollars ($), accept. Banks 9am to 5pm Monday to depending on the currency Friday in which prices are quoted at Many travellers do the Cafes and teashops 6am to the place itself. bulk of their exchanging in 6pm Yangon, then carry the stacks Government offices and post Items such as meals, bus of kyat around the country. offices 9.30am to 4.30pm tickets, trishaw or taxi rides, Considering the relative safe- Monday to Friday bottles of water or beer, and ty from theft, it’s not a bad Restaurants 11am to 9pm market items are usually idea, but you can exchange Shops 9am to 6pm quoted in kyat. money elsewhere and the spreading of ATMs is making Photography These days most places such a strategy increasingly will accept either currency. unnecessary. Photo-processing shops When paying in US dollars, and internet cafes can burn check the exchange rate Tipping digital photos onto a CD, but being used and your change you should have your own carefully. Locals tend to Tipping is not customary in adapter. Colour film – Fuji unload slightly torn bills that Myanmar, though little extra and Kodak – is available in work fine in New York, but ‘presents’ are sometimes Yangon and Mandalay. are likely to be worthless expected (even if they’re not for the rest of your trip in asked for) in exchange for a Avoid taking photographs Myanmar. service. of military facilities, uni- Airport If someone helps you formed individuals, road Donations & Bribes with your bags, a small tip is blocks and strategic loca- welcomed. tions, such as bridges. Have some small notes (K50, Restaurants As wages are low, K100, K200) ready when it’s a good idea to leave change Most locals are very happy visiting a religious temple for waiters in restaurants. to be photographed, but or monastery, as donations may be requested and you BRING NEW BILLS may wish to leave one even if it’s not. In July 2016 the Central Bank of Myanmar urged banks and moneylenders to accept crumpled and old US dollar The government has bills. That said, we would still recommend bringing pris- vowed to fight corruption, tine ‘new’ bills to Myanmar – that means 2006 or later but it’s a fact that bribes re- bills that have colour and are in perfect condition: no main an ingrained feature of folds, stamps, stains, writing marks or tears. large sections of Myanmar’s economy. You may find that a Bills damaged in any way will attract lower rates of small amount of ‘tea money’ exchange or may still be rejected. You will get the best is need to expedite certain exchange rates from US$100 bills, but it’s also a good services – use sense and idea to bring some small dollar bills – ones, fives and discretion if you find yourself 10s – and use them to pay for items directly. in such a situation. Money Changers You’ll find official bank and private licensed exchange booths at places such as

D i rec to ry A–Z P os t412 destination hotel by bus – Bring repellent from home, always ask first. If you have a the extra fee is often minimal. as the good stuff (other than digital camera with a display mosquito coils) is hard to screen, some locals (kids, Public Holidays come by. Some guesthouses monks, anyone) will be over- and hotels don’t provide joyed to see their image. It’s Major fixed public holidays: mosquito nets. also very easy and cheap to Independence Day 4 January get digital photos turned into Union Day 12 February Myanmar has a high prints that can then be given Peasants’ Day 2 March incidence of deaths from to people as presents. Armed Forces Day 27 March snakebite. Watch your step in Some sights, including Workers’ Day 1 May brush, forest and grasses. some paya and other reli- Martyrs’ Day 19 July gious sites, charge a camera Christmas 25 December Family-run guesthouses, fee of K100 or so. Usually a The following public holiday particularly in rural areas, video camera fee is a little dates vary according to the might have a rodent or two. more. lunar calendar: Wash your hands before For tips on how to shoot Thingyan three days in April sleeping and try to keep food photos, pick up Lonely Plan- National Day mid-November to out of your room. et’s Travel Photography. late December In a few sites, such as Post Safe Travel Hpo Win Daung Caves, near Monywa, or Mt Popa Most mail out of Myan- For the vast majority of near Bagan (Pagan), you’ll mar gets to its desti- visitors, travel in Myanmar have monkeys begging for nation quite efficiently. is safe and should pose no snacks. Take care as bites International-­postage rates serious problems. are possible. are a bargain: a postcard ¨¨Some areas of the country is K500, a 1kg package remain off-limits due to Crime to Australia/UK/USA ongoing civil war and/or K16,200/18,900/20,700. landmines. While not unheard of, crimes ¨¨In off-the-beaten-track such as mugging are rare in Post offices are supposed places, where authorities Myanmar. Locals know that to be open from 9.30am to are less used to seeing the penalties for stealing, 4.30pm Monday to Friday foreigners, the chances are particularly from foreigners, but you may find some keep high that you’ll be kept an can be severe. Most trav- shorter hours. eye on. ellers’ memories of locals ¨¨If you have any tattoos of grabbing their money are DHL (Map p42;%01-215 buddha on your body, keep of someone chasing them 516; www.dhl.com; 58 Wadan them covered up. down to return a K500 note St, Lanmadaw; h8am-6pm they dropped. If someone Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) is a more Bugs, Snakes, grabs your bag at a bus reliable but expensive way of Rats & Monkeys station, it’s almost certainly sending out bigger packages. just a trishaw driver hoping Mosquitoes, if allowed, can for a fare. Local Delivery have a field day with you. Insurgents & Bombs If you don’t want to be over- burdened with your souvenir Ceasefire agreements be- purchases as you travel tween the government and around Myanmar, enquire many insurgent groups are whether the shop can pack- making it easier to travel to age your gifts and arrange to previously off-limits parts have them delivered to a final of the country. However, the situation can and does GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE change rapidly, so check current travel advisories. The following government websites offer travel adviso- Landmines on the Myanmar ries and information on current hotspots: side of the Thai border are Australia (http://smartraveller.gov.au) another threat. Canada (https://travel.gc.ca/travelling) New Zealand (www.safetravel.govt.nz) The presence of Shan UK (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice) and Wa armies along the USA (http://travel.state.gov) Thailand–Myanmar border in northern Mae Hong Son makes this area dangerous. The Wa have reportedly sworn off drug production, but there’s still plenty of amphetamines and opium crossing some border areas.

413 Scams & Hassle SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR HIKING D i rec to ry A–Z Te l ephone Myanmar touts are pretty We’ve heard about some travellers finding new paths minor league in comparison and staying in the hills for a week or more. Most, how­ with others in the region. ever, stick with day trips. Here are a few points to consid- Most hassle is due to com- er before lacing up the boots: missions. These small ¨¨Hike with at least one companion; in most cases it’s behind-t­ he-scenes payments best to hire a guide. are made, like it or not, for a taxi, trishaw driver or guide ¨¨Do not venture by foot into areas restricted to who takes you to a hotel, to foreigners; ask around before taking off. buy a puppet or even to eat some rice. ¨¨Camping in the hills is not technically legal, as foreigners must be registered nightly with local When arriving at a bus authorities by owners of ‘licensed accommodation’. station, you’re likely to be quickly surrounded by touts, ¨¨Trail conditions can get slippery and dangerous, some of whom will try to especially in the rainy season. steer you to a particular hotel that offers them a commis- ¨¨Walk only in regions within your capabilities – you’re sion. Be wary of claims that not going to find a trishaw out there to bring you back. your chosen place is ‘no good’, though in some cases Proceed with caution when and the private operators we found that trishaw drivers crossing any road, particu- Telenor Myanmar (www. who had warned us that larly in cities where drivers telenor.com.mm) and Oore- ‘foreigners can’t stay there’ are unlikely to stop if they are doo (www.ooredoo.com. ended up being correct. If involved in an accident with mm). All offer pay-as-you go you know where you want a pedestrian. Traffic drives SIM cards (around K12,000), to go, persist and they’ll on the right in Myanmar, which can be used with un- take you. but the majority of cars are locked smartphones. right-hand-drive imports, This said, a few travel-­ which add to the chance of For call and text fees related businesses and touts accidents occurring. and internet plans, top-up do go to creative lengths or cards of between K1000 and use hard-sell techniques to Tattoos & K10,000 are widely available. rustle up customers, so try to Buddha Images keep your wits about you. Local Calls Depictions of images of Bud- Be wary of fanciful offers dha deemed inappropriate or Most business cards in of jade or other gems as offensive by Buddhists have Myanmar list a couple of some are filled with worth- caused serious problems for phone numbers, as landlines less rock or concrete mix- visitors to Myanmar recently. frequently go dead and calls ture. And never buy gems on In 2015 a New Zealand bar just don’t go through. the street. manager in Yangon (Ran- goon) spent 10 months in Local call stands – as part Many people may ap- jail for posting an image of of a shop, or sometimes just proach to say ‘Hello’ on Buddha wearing headphones a table with a phone or two the street. In some cases, on Facebook to promote a on a sidewalk – are fast dis- they’re just curious or want cheap drinks night. In 2016 a appearing following the intro- to practise some English. In Spanish tourist was deported duction of affordable mobile other cases the conversation when monks in Bagan saw he phone services. If you do find switches from ‘What country had a tattoo of Buddha on his one, a local call should be you from?’ to ‘Where you leg. Pay heed to such local K100 per minute. need to go?’ It’s all pretty religious sensitivities and harmless. moderate your behaviour To dial long distance with- accordingly. in Myanmar, dial the area Do not change money on code (including the ‘0’) and the street. Telephone the number. Transport & Mobile Phones A useful resource is the Road Hazards Myanmar Yellow Pages (www. There are three mobile net- myanmaryellowpages.biz). The poor state of road and works: government-owned rail infrastructure plus lax MPT (www.mpt.com.mm) International Calls safety standards and proce- dures for flights and boats Internet cafes using Skype means that travelling can and other VOI protocols, sometimes be dangerous. official telephone (call) cen- tres and top-end hotels are Safety often seems to among the ways to call be the last consideration of both drivers and pedestrians.

D i rec to ry A–Z T i me414 LIVING ON MYANMAR TIME Chances are that your bus or train will roll in late, but much of Myanmar actually does work on a different time system. Burmese Buddhists use an eight-day week in which Thursday to Tuesday conform to the Western calendar but Wednesday is divided into two 12-hour days. Midnight to noon is ‘Bohdahu’ (the day Buddha was born), while noon to midnight is ‘Yahu’ (Rahu, a Hindu god/planet). However, it’s rare that the week’s unique structure causes any communication problems. The traditional Myanmar calendar features 12 28-day lunar months that run out of sync with the months of the solar Gregorian calendar. To stay in sync with the solar year, Myanmar inserts a second Waso lunar month every few years – somewhat like the leap-year day added to the Gregorian February. The lunar months of Myanmar are Tagu, March/April; Kason, April/May; Nayon, May/June; Waso, June/July; Wagaung, July/ August; Tawthalin, August/September; Thadingyut, September/October; Tazaungmon, October/November; Nadaw, November/December; Pyatho, December/January; Tabod- we, January/February; and Tabaung, February/March. Traditionally, Burmese kings subscribed to various year counts. The main one in current use, the thekkayit, begins in April and is 638 years behind the Christian year count. Therefore, the Christian year of 2017 is equivalent to the thekkayit of 1379. If an ancient temple you see sounds way too old, it may be because locals are using the thekkayit. Another calendar in use follows the Buddhist era (BE), as used in Thailand, which counts from 543 BC, the date that Buddha achieved nibbana. Hence AD 2017 is 2560 BE. overseas, though sometimes toilets are the norm. Most of Map p38;%01-252 859; www. this can be done on the street these are located down a dirt myanmartourism.org; 118 through vendors offering use path behind a house. Mahabandoola Garden St, of their mobile phones. ¨¨Usually next to the toilet Kyauktada; h9am-4.30pm) is a cement reservoir filled Located in Yangon. This office is Via a landline, it costs with water, and a plastic bowl quiet, and often the staff have about US$5 per minute to lying nearby. This has two sketchy knowledge on restricted call Australia or Europe and functions: as a flush and for areas of the country. US$6 per minute to phone people to clean their nether Myanmar Travels & Tours North America. regions while still squatting (MTT; Map p169;%061-65040; over the toilet. h8.30am-4.30pm) Located in To call Myanmar from ¨¨Toilet paper is available at New Bagan. abroad, dial your country’s shops all over the country, MTT (Myanmar Travel & Tours; international access code, but not often at toilets. Some Map p238;%02-60356; 68th then %95 (Myanmar’s coun- places charge a nominal fee St, 26/27; h9.30am-6pm) try code), the area code (mi- to use the toilet. Located in Mandalay. Efficient nus the ‘0’), and the five- or ¨¨Sit-down toilets are not and generally helpful staff. six-digit number. equipped to flush paper. Travellers who want to ar- Usually there’s a small waste range a driver, or have hotel Time basket nearby to deposit reservations awaiting them, used toilet paper. would do well to arrange a The local Myanmar Standard ¨¨It’s acceptable for men trip with the help of private Time (MST) is 6½ hours (less so for women) to go travel agents in Yangon and ahead of Greenwich Mean behind a tree or bush (or at other major cities. Many My- Time (GMT/UTC). When the roadside) when nature anmar ‘travel agents’ outside coming in from Thailand, calls. Yangon only sell air tickets. turn your watch back half an ¨¨Buses and smaller boats hour; coming from India, put usually don’t have toilets. Travel Agencies your watch forward an hour. The 24-hour clock is often Tourist For anything other than used for train times. Information straightforward visits, you might want to call on the Toilets Ministry of Hotels & Tourism services of one of the follow- Tourist Information (MTT; ing recommended domestic ¨¨Apart from most travel agencies. guesthouses, hotels and upmarket restaurants, squat

415 Asian Trails (Map p42;%01- sailing holidays in the Myeik fact in a country with high 211 212; www.asiantrails. Archipelago. poverty levels. travel; 73 Pyay Rd, Dagon) Khiri Travel (Map p38;%01-375 This experienced outfit can 577; http://khiri.com; 1st fl, 5/9 Practicalities D i rec to ry A–Z T r av e l w i t h Ch i l d r en arrange specific-interest tours of Bo Galay Zay St, Botataung) Myanmar, including cycling and The friendly, professional team ¨¨Myanmar has a low level of mountaineering, as well as visits offers biking and kayak trips in public sanitation, so parents to remote areas. Shan and Kayin states, walking would be wise to lay down tours of markets and meetings a few ground rules with Ayarwaddy Legend Travels & with fortune-tellers, as well as regard to maintaining their Tours (Map p38;%01-252 007; many other options. children’s good health, such www.ayarwaddylegend.com; Myanmar Trekking (Map p52; as regular hand washing. 104 37th St, Kyauttada) Can %01-667 948; www.myanmar ¨¨Children should especially provide advice on visiting off- trekking.com; Rm 7, 4A Parami be warned not to play with the-beaten-track areas, such as Rd, Mayangone) Worth consult- animals they encounter, as a mountain climbing in Chin State. ing if you’re interested in off-the- precaution against rabies. beaten-track trekking adventures ¨¨Nappies (diapers) are hard Columbus Travels & Tours across Myanmar. to come by outside the major (Map p42;%01-229 245; Oway (Map p48;%09 45045 cities; come prepared if your www.travelmyanmar.com; 0601; www.oway.com.mm; 9th travels will take you off the 586 Strand Rd, Lanmawdaw) fl, Grand Myay Nu Tower, 6/38 beaten track. Established in 1993, Columbus Myay Nu St, Sanchaung) Online ¨¨Most high-end hotels also has branches in Mandalay, booking agency for a wide range and restaurants will have Bagan and Inle. of hotels, domestic flights, ex- highchairs available. Diethelm Travel (Map p38; press buses, car hire and tours. ¨¨When travelling with %01-203 751; www.diethelmt SST Tours (Map p38;%01-255 children, it may be more ravel.com/myanmar; 412 Mer- 536; www.sstmyanmar.com; Rm comfortable getting about by chant St, Botataung) Among 5-6, 2nd fl, Aung San Stadium, private car. other things, this five-decades- Mingalar Taung Nyunt) This old Swiss-owned operation can ecotours specialist has excel- Sights & Activities arrange walking tours of Yangon, lent contacts in the country’s visits to an elephant camp near national parks and reserves, and ¨¨Rides on trishaws and in Kalaw or a beach safari from can arrange trips that will delight horse carts. Ngapali. nature lovers. ¨¨Boat trips on Inle Lake in Discovery DMC (Map p42;%01- dugout canoes. 388 330; http://discovery Travel ¨¨Big Buddhist sights and dmc.com; 42B Pantra Rd, with Children ancient ruins can make for Dagon) This experienced good learning experiences, European-owned agency is well Travelling with children in My- including Yangon’s versed in arranging trips to areas anmar can be very rewarding Shwedagon Paya, the that are off the beaten track and as long as you come well pre- reclining Buddhas in Bago, need permits. pared with the right attitude, or the 10-storey Buddha Flymya (Map p42;%09 79797 the physical requirements and in Pyay. You can climb into 8881; https://flymya.com; the usual parental patience. the back of the lacquered Lanmadaw Plaza, Latha) Online ¨¨Lonely Planet’s Travel with Buddha image at Nan Paya booking agency for hotels, Children contains useful in Salay. domestic flights, express buses, advice on travelling with kids ¨¨Some kids might dig car hire, tours and events. on the road. ruins of old palace walls and Good News Travels (Map p52; ¨¨People in Myanmar moats, which you can see %09 863 5066, 09 511 6256; love children and in many at places like Bagan and www.myanmargoodnewstravel. instances will shower Mrauk U. com; Rm 18, 204 Yanshin Rd, attention on your offspring, ¨¨Indulge in some East Yankin) The owner, William who will find ready face painting by trying Myatwunna, is extremely per- playmates among their local on thanakha (yellow sonable and knowledgeable, and counterparts. sandalwood-like paste), can help arrange visits across ¨¨It may be confusing which is sold and applied the country. for some children (and from sidewalk stands around Journeys Myanmar (%01-664 distressing to adults) the country. 275; www.journeysmyanmar. seeing children working at ¨¨There’s excellent com; 53 Nagayone Pagoda Rd, restaurants and teahouses. birdwatching at the off Pyay Rd, Mayangone) Can Sadly, this is an unavoidable Moeyungyi Wetlands near arrange river trips on a wide Bago. range of luxury craft and other options. Also biking tours and

416 D i rec to ry A–Z T r av e l l e r s w i t h D i sab i l i t i es Immigration and Population day processing (application ¨¨Traditional puppet shows website: http://evisa.moip. 9am to noon, collection are performed in Yangon, gov.mm. 3.30pm to 4.30pm), 1035B Bagan and Mandalay, as well for the next day. as other places. The cost is US$50. After ¨¨Beaches at Ngapali, your application is pro- Visa Extensions & Chaung Tha and Ngwe cessed, you’ll be emailed an Overstaying Saung and Southern approval letter. Print it out Myanmar. and give it to the passport of- Some travellers extend their ¨¨Myanmar’s festivals, such ficial on arrival at the airport trips by overstaying their as Thingyan in mid-April or designated land borders visa. This is not normally with its throwing of water, with Thailand and you’ll be a problem, as long as you and Taunggyi’s fire-balloon stamped into the country. don’t overstay for more than festival in October or 14 days. You will be charged November, can be a lot of fun. E-visas can be used at US$3 a day, plus a US$3 Yangon, Mandalay and registration fee, at the airport Travellers with Nay Pyi Taw international or land border as you exit Disabilities airports; and at three Thai- the country. The fine can be land–Myanmar land border paid in kyat as well but it’s With its lack of paved roads crossings, Tachileik, Myawadi important to have the correct or footpaths (even when (Myawaddy) and Kawthoung amount as receiving change present, the latter are often (Kawthaung). You can exit is unlikely. uneven), Myanmar presents the country at any overland many physical obstacles for border crossing (although However, some hotels the mobility-impaired. Rarely you will need a permit and won’t take guests who have do public buildings (or trans- permission to exit to China overstayed their visas and port) feature ramps or other and India). domestic airlines may be un- access points for wheel- willing to let you on planes. If chairs, and hotels make in- Citizens of 50 countries you are overstaying, it’s wise consistent efforts to provide can also apply online for to stick with land routes and access for the disabled. business visas (US$70, valid places within easy access 70 days), but you’ll need a of Yangon. There have been For wheelchair travellers, letter of invitation from a cases in the past of tourists any trip to Myanmar will sponsoring company and being instructed to leave the require a good deal of plan- proof of your company’s country immediately if their ning. Before setting off, get registration or business. visa has expired. in touch with your national support organisation (pref- Applications Volunteering erably with the travel officer, if there is one) and download Tourist visas (28 days) are Volunteering opportunities Lonely Planet’s free Accessi- valid for up to three months in Myanmar include teach- ble Travel guide from http:// from the date of issue. Start- ing, medicine, and assisting lptravel.to/AccessibleTravel. ing the process a month in entrepreneurs and fledgling advance is the safe bet; these social businesses with skills Also try the following: days the processing can take and administration. There Accessible Journeys (www. anything between a day and are plenty of NGOs but disabilitytravel.com) a week. they usually employ skilled Mobility International USA personnel and require a long- (www.miusa.org) Advises disa- There are slight differenc- term commitment. bled travellers on mobility issues es between the application and runs educational interna- procedures at Myanmar Organisations in Myanmar tional exchange programs. embassies in different that often look for volunteers Nican (www.nican.com.au) In countries. Some require two include the following: Australia. passport photos, others only KT Care Foundation Myanmar Tourism for All (www.tourism one. Postal applications are (www.ktcare.org) forall.org.uk) In the UK. usually OK, but it’s best to Myanmore (www.myanmore. check first with your nearest com) Publishes the free Know Visas embassy about its specific It Myanmore guide twice yearly, application rules. which has further details about E-Visas volunteering opportunities; a If you’re already travelling, PDF is available online. Citizens of 100 countries can it’s possible to get a tourist UN Volunteers (http://unv.org/ apply online for tourist visas visa at short notice from the how-to-volunteer) via Myanmar’s Ministry of Myanmar Embassy (%02 VIA (Volunteers in Asia; http:// 233 7250; www.myanmar viaprograms.org) embassybkk.com; 132 Th Sathon Neua/North, Bangkok; h9am-noon & 1-3pm Mon-Fri; bSurasak exit 3) in Bangkok; the cost is 1260B for same-

417 Be very wary about visiting to keep them company on Multiple-entry business D i rec to ry A–Z W omen T r av e l l e r s or volunteering to teach at the trip. visas, valid for up to a year, orphanages – see www.think are not available online and childsafe.org/think If you didn’t bring tam- require a foreigner to have beforevisiting for more pons, one good place to find visited Myanmar on three details. them is Yangon’s City Mart prior occasions. Whatever Supermarket. visa you have, it’s important Women Travellers to make sure you don’t over- ‘Ladies’ (per the posted stay its validity – multiple-­ As in most Buddhist coun- signs in certain areas) cannot entry business visas require tries, foreign women travel- go up to some altars or onto the holder to leave and return ling in Myanmar are rarely decks around stupas, includ- to Myanmar every 70 days. hassled on the road as they ing the one affording a close- might be in India, Malaysia up look at the famous Golden Note, although some or Indonesia. However, we Rock at Kyaiktiyo, or apply expats do use such visas have heard a few reports of gold leaf on the Buddha im- to work full- or part-time in sexual harassment. Dress- age at Mandalay’s Mahamuni Myanmar, strictly a business ing modestly should help Paya. Also, women should visa is meant for conducting reduce this risk: wear a local never touch a monk; if you’re meetings and business, longyi (sarong-style lower handing something to a not for seeking and gaining garment) instead of a skirt monk, place the object within employment – for that you above the knee, and a T-shirt reach of him, not directly into will need a Long Stay Permit instead of a spaghetti-strap his hands. and Foreign Registration singlet. Certificate (FRC). To obtain Most locals tend to visit such documents it is best Few Myanmar women teahouses, restaurants or to engage the services of a would consider travelling shops with members of the local visa and immigration without at least one female same sex. Asian women, specialist. companion, so women trav- even from other countries, elling alone are regarded travelling with a Western Among the work possibili- as slightly peculiar by the man may encounter rude ties in Myanmar are teaching, locals. Lone women being comments. journalism, medicine and a seen off on boats and trains whole raft of NGOs. Online by local friends may find the Work sources for jobs include latter trying to find a suitably www.work.com.mm and responsible older woman Citizens of 50 countries can www.jobnet.com.mm. apply for a single-entry busi- ness visa online.

4 1 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Transport GETTING can also fly directly into change at some point in the THERE & AWAY Mandalay International future. Also check the situa­ Airport (MDL; %02-27048, tion at your journey-planning Flights, tours and rail tickets 02-27027) from China, Hong stage as border crossings do can be booked online at lonely Kong, India, Singapore and close from time to time. planet.com/bookings. Thailand, and Nay Pyi Taw International Airport (NYT; Sea Entering %09 79900 0196) from China the Country and Thailand. There are no international ferries or cruises to mainland If you have your visa ready Airlines offer discounted Myanmar by sea. Visitors to and a valid passport with at tickets online depending on the Myeik Archipelago often least six months of validity how far in advance you book. get to the islands from Thai­ from the time of entry in Good deals are often avail­ land on live-aboard diving hand, you should have no able from Bangkok, Kuala tours. trouble entering Myanmar Lumpur and Singapore on either by air or land. budget airlines such as Air­ GETTING Asia and Silk Air. AROUND There is no requirement for you to show an onward In Myanmar you can buy Air ticket out of the country in international tickets from order to enter Myanmar. travel agents or online. Airlines in Myanmar Air Land Myanmar’s domestic air service features a handful Airports & Airlines Arriving and departing by of overworked planes that land from China, India and have busy days, sometimes Most international flights Thailand is possible, although landing at an airport, leaving arrive at Yangon Interna- for China and India crossings the engine on, unloading and tional Airport (%01-533 you will need a permit. 031; Mingalardon; W). You Crossings from Bangla­ desh and Laos are currently not available but this could CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with con­ tributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

419 BORDER CROSSINGS Transport Bicycle There are currently entry and exit points from Myanmar’s land borders at the six points detailed here. No bus or train service connects Myanmar with another country, nor can you travel by car or motorcycle across the border – you must walk across. E-visas (p416) are currently only available at the following Myanmar–T­ hailand borders: Tachileik, Myawaddy and Kawthaung. For other crossings have your visa ready in your passport before you get to the border. ¨¨Mae Sai in northern Thailand to/from Tachileik in Shan State (p232) ¨¨Mae Sot in Thailand to/from Myawaddy in Kayin State (p126) ¨¨Ranong in Thailand to/from Kawthoung at far southern end of Tanintharyi Region (p139) ¨¨Phu Nam Ron in Thailand to/from Htee Khee in Tanintharyi Region (p129) ¨¨Ruili in Yunnan Province, China, to/from Mu-se in Shan State (p289) ¨¨Moreh in India’s Manipur state to/from Tamu in Sagaing Region loading, and taking off in 20 Airport Codes such as Yangon, Mandalay, minutes! This doesn’t yield a Nyaung U and Heho, during spot-free safety record. Many posted flight schedules the high season – but it’s es­ around the country only sential to always double-check Between the main desti­ use domestic airport codes, departure times at least 24 nations of Yangon (Rangoon), shown in the following table. hours before departure and Mandalay, Heho (for Inle again on the day itself. To Lake), Nyaung U (for Bagan) AIRPORT CODE smaller destinations, flights and Thandwe (for Ngapali Bhamo BMO can be cancelled and reappear Beach), you’ll find daily con­ Dawei TVY depending on demand. nections. In many other plac­ Heho (Inle HEH es, there are spotless, largely Lake) Tickets unused airports serving, well, Homalin HOX no flights other than visiting Kalaymyo KMV ¨¨Online booking and dignitaries on occasion. Kawthoung KAW e-ticketing is available with all Kengtung KET domestic airlines. Following is the contact Lashio LSH ¨¨One-way fares are half a information for airline offices Mandalay MDL return fare, and can be bought in Yangon. These airlines all Mawlamyine MNU between six months and a day serve the same major desti­ Myeik MGZ in advance. It’s sometimes nations (ie from Yangon to/ Myitkyina MYT difficult to buy a ticket that from Nay Pyi Daw, Mandalay, Nay Pyi Taw NPT departs from a town other Bagan, Inle, Sittwe). Myan­ Nyaung U NYU than the one you are in. mar National Airlines serves (Bagan) ¨¨There is no domestic the most extensive range of Pathein BSX departure tax. destinations. Putao PBU Air Bagan (%01-504 888; www. Sittwe AKY Bicycle airbagan.com) Tachileik THL Air KBZ (%01-372 977; www. Thandwe SNW Outside the major cities, airkbz.com) (Ngapali bicycles are a popular means Air Mandalay (%01-525 488; Beach) RGN for locals to get around and www.airmandalay.com) Yangon can easily be hired around Asian Wings (%01-516 654; the country by visitors. www.asianwingsairways.com) Schedules Around Town Golden Myanmar Airlines Schedules are most reliable (%09 97799 3000; www. between main destinations, At popular tourist spots in gmairlines.com) Mandalay, Bagan and Inle Lake you’ll see ‘bike rental’ Mann Yadanarpon Airlines signs; rates start at K2000 (%01-656 969; www.airmyp.com) per day; top-end hotels and occasionally more far-flung Myanmar National Airlines places charge up to K4000. (%01-378 603; www.flymna.com) Most guesthouses in such Yangon Airways (%01-383 100; places keep a few bikes on www.yangonair.com)

420 0 200 km 0 120 miles Major Transport Routes Pangsaw Putao CHINA Pass (TIBET) BHUTAN Transport INDIA Myitkyina BANGLA- Bhamo CHINA DESH Katha Ruili AyeRiyvaerrwady Mu-se Kalaymyo Homalin KyaukN-anhsan Lashio CRhiinvderwiMn onySwhawebo myaung Mingun Hsipaw Kyaukme Sagaing Pyin Oo Lwin Mandalay Pakokku Myingyan Mt VictoriaNyBaaugnagnU MMPaotTgphwaaMeKziealiNakwHtAileaYhoPYPShiITnwKdTaeaauAnkynkyWaguaguynKigyaingTtaocnhgileMik ae Mrauk U Kyaukpadaung LAOS Sittwe Minbu Sai AyeRyiavrewrady Pyinmana Chiang Rai Taunggok Pyay Taungoo Bay of Thandwe Shwedaung Bengal Ngapali Beach Bago Kyaiktiyo Chaung Tha Thaton Hpa-an Myawaddy Ngwe Saung Yangon Mae Sot Pathein Twante Mawlamyine ANDAMAN Mouths of the Kyaikkami Thanbyuzayat THAILAND SEA Ayeyarwady Ye Gulf of Mottama Dawei Phu Nam Ron Htee Khee This map outlines major land and water routes Myeik Gulf you can use in Myanmar. Some require a Ranong of government permit. Thailand Border Crossing Cities With Air Links (Some Require Permit) Towns With No Air Links Rail Route Boat Route Yangon–Mandalay Hwy Government Permission Routes Kawthoung

421 hand; if not, staff can track quality motorcycle helmets operation, offering five different Tr a nsp o rt B oat one down. Note the condition here; many are disturbingly itineraries, including an oppor- of the bike before hiring; adorned with swastikas – a tunity to cycle from Bangkok check the brakes and pedals fad, not a political alliance. to Yangon over 14 days (from in particular. Many rental bikes Bring reflective clothing and US$3595 per person). Another have baskets or bells, but plenty of insurance. Don’t tour follows part of the old don’t expect a crash helmet! ride at night. Burma Road from Pyin Oo Lwin to Mandalay. Sturdier Indian, Chinese Travellers on a bike may or Thai imports are available end up needing to sleep in Think Asia Travel & Tours (from K100,000) if you’d towns few travellers make (%01-230 1293; www.think rather buy one. Some tours it to, and a lack of licensed asia-tours.com; 3rd fl, 14 Mar provide bikes, so you may accommodation may be an Ga Rd, Ahlone) Yangon-based be able to rent better quality issue. Technically, you will agency offering bike tours at Inle ones from agents (eg EXO need permission from local Lake, Kalaw and Mandalay. Travel in New Bagan). immigration to stay at such Unchartered Horizons (Map places. Be patient. Most p38;%09 97117 6085; www. Apart from in Yangon and cyclists get permission from uncharted-horizons-myanmar. Mandalay, vehicular traffic is local authorities to stay one com; 109 49th St, Botataung; quite light. night, but the paperwork half-/full-day tour from (coming with some frowns) K42,000/65,000) As well Long Distance may take an hour or so to as its great half- and full-day arrange. cycling tours around Yangon, this A few visitors bring their own Yangon-based company runs touring bikes into Myanmar. It’s possible to store your adventurous biking and trekking There shouldn’t be any bicycle in the undercarriage tours in Chin, Rakhine and Shan problem with customs as storage on buses, though you states. long as you make the proper may have to pay a little extra. declarations upon entering On smaller buses it’s possi­ Boat the country. ble you’ll be asked to buy a ‘seat’ for your bike. A great variety of boats – Gradients are moderate in from creaky old government-­ most parts of Myanmar that Some bike tours connect run ferries to luxurious are open to tourism. Frontier the dots of Myanmar’s great­ private cruise ships – ply regions, on the other hand, est hits – going, for example, Myanmar’s waterways. tend to be mountainous, up the Pyay highway to Ba­ particularly Shan, Kayin, gan then Mandalay, and back In addition to the rivers, Kayah and Chin states. You’ll to Yangon via Meiktila and it’s possible to travel along find plenty of opportunity Taungoo. It’s rougher going, the Bay of Bengal between everywhere for dirt-road but nicer riding, to reach Sittwe and Taunggok (north and off-road pedalling. A some mountainous areas, of Ngapali Beach). sturdy mountain bike would like Inle Lake. make a good alternative to a Cargo Ships touring rig, especially in the Some recommended tour north, where main roads can companies: Myanma Five Star Line (Map resemble secondary roads p38;%09 5129 5279; www.fasa. elsewhere. Bike World Explores Myanmar org.sg; 132-136 Thein Byu Rd, (Map p52;%01-527 636; www. Botataung), the government-­ Some of the key routes cyclingmyanmar.com; 10F owned ocean transport enter- around Myanmar: Khapaung Rd, Hlaing; bike prise, is only cargo now, but you ¨¨Thazi to Inle Lake via Kalaw rental & guide from K15,000) can try to see about jumping on ¨¨Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo) to Yangon-based company that also a boat to Thandwe, Taunggok or Lashio via Hsipaw sells and rents bikes and can Sittwe, or south to Dawei, Myeik ¨¨Mandalay to Bagan via offer touring advice. It has sev- or Kawthoung, at some point in Myingyan eral itineraries from three days the future. ¨¨Mandalay to either of biking around Yangon (from Monywa, Pyin Oo Lwin, US$450 minimum two people) Ferries & Private Sagaing, Inwa (Ava) or to longer adventures heading out Boats Amarapura of Bagan into Chin State. November to February is the EXO Travel (Map p48; %in Inland Water Transport (IWT; best time to cycle in terms of Yangon 01-860 4933; www. www.iwt.gov.mm) boats tend to the weather. exotravel.com; 147 Shwegone- be rather rundown and ram- dine Rd, Bahan) Runs high-end shackle, but provide remarkable There are basic bicycle cycle tours covering Mandalay to glimpses into local river life. shops in most towns, but Bagan, the Shan Hills and sights Many of the passengers on the they usually have only locally in Mon State. long-distance ferries are traders or Chinese-made parts to Spice Roads (%in Thailand equip single-speed bikes. +66-2-381 7490; www. You can also buy lower spiceroads.com) Bangkok-based

422 Tr a nsp o rt B oat SURVIVING LONG-DISTANCE BUS TRIPS Heed the following points and your long-distance bus trip will, possibly, be a bit more comfortable: ¨¨Bring snacks and drinks by all means but don’t worry too much about this. A bottle of water is often handed out on better-quality buses. There are usually no bathrooms on the bus, but frequent toilet-and-refreshment stops (when everyone must get off the bus to prevent anything being stolen) punctuate journeys. ¨¨Often the TV blares for much of the trip – usually sticking with Myanmar-made concerts or movies detailing things such as, oh, protagonists dying bloody deaths in car crashes, but the occasional Raiders of the Lost Ark slips in. ¨¨Take a jacket or blanket (preferably both) as temperatures can drop substantially at night; air-con can also make it chilly. And consider earplugs and an eye mask as well if you plan to grab a little shut-eye between toilet stops. ¨¨Myanmar superstition says that when you’re on a journey you shouldn’t ask anyone ‘How much longer?’, or ‘Brother, when will we arrive?’, as this is only tempting fate. ¨¨Try not to become alarmed when you see how some local passengers hold their breath whenever a bus approaches a particularly dodgy-looking bridge. who make stops along the way to Amara Cruise (www.amara Paukan Cruises (www.ayra pick up or deliver goods. group.net) Owned by a German vatacruises.com) Beautifully Along the heavily travelled and his Myanmar wife, this restored river steamers are 262-mile-long Yangon–Pyay– company runs cruises between used for this company’s trips, Mandalay route, there are 28 Mandalay and Bagan (four days, which range from one night ferry landings, where mer­ three nights single/double between Mandalay and Bagan chants can ply their trade. from €2045/2614). There’s (single/twin from US$380/870) IWT offices are usually near also the option of a six-night to 10-day itineraries including the jetty. They can offer infor­ Mandalay–Bhamo cruise. Its two sights along the Chindwin River mation, schedules and fare medium-sized teak boats each (single/twin US$4175/9600). details, and usually tickets. have seven comfy cabins and are Road to Mandalay (www. IWT offices, officially, accept traditionally styled but recently belmond.com/road-to-man US dollars only. built. dalay-myanmar) These luxury Avalon Waterways (%in USA cruises are run by the operators Some short trips are +1-877-797-8791; www.avalon of the Orient Express and range handled with small covered waterways.com) You’ll spend between two and 12 nights on wooden ferries that fit about 10 nights sailing between Bagan two boats. The Road to Man- 25 people. Often there are and Bhamo aboard the 18–state dalay, a 43-berth liner that is smaller, private boats you room Avalon Myanmar, built in huge by Ayeyarwady standards, can negotiate to use with the 2015. The basic itinerary (from includes an on-board swimming driver. We include private US$4349 per person) starts pool and wellness centre. In high boat services whenever and finishes in Yangon – note season it does mostly Bagan– possible. However, because airfares for getting to and from Mandalay, but there are occa- of their size it’s not always the cruise portion of the trip sional trips to Bhamo, too. The as safe riding with private are extra. newer, four-deck Orcaella has 25 boats compared with bigger Pandaw Cruises (www.pandaw. cabins and also has a small top- government ferries. com) Offers various high-end deck pool, a fitness and wellness cruises aboard a replica of the centre, and boutique. Three- Luxury Boats teak-and-brass IFC fleet, such as day/two-night cruises start at a 10-night trip between Yangon US$660 per person. Several luxury boats travel and Mandalay (single/double Sanctuary Ananda (www. the upper and lower reaches from US$2859/5718) and a sanctuaryretreats.com) of the Ayeyarwady (Irrawad­ 20-day itinerary that charts the Launched in 2014, this sleek dy) River as well as the Chindwin and upper reaches of Myanmar-built craft offers 20 Chindwin River. Rates usually the Ayeyarwady River (single/ suites spread over three decks. include all meals and excur­ double US$7055/14,110). New There’s a small plunge pool on sions from the boats. The since 2016 is its cruise from the top deck and a spa/gym starting point for most trips Ranong in southern Myanmar via inside. Itineraries range from the is either Bagan or Mandalay, the Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago three-day Bagan–Mandalay route but occasionally itineraries to Yangon. (from UK£714 per person) to the originate in Yangon.

423 11 nights sailing between Manda- Seat Classes & conditioning, make shorter-­ Tr a nsp o rt B us lay and Yangon or Mandalay and Conditions haul trips, such as direct Bhamo (both from UK£2989 per links from Yangon to Pyay or person). Many long-haul trips allow Taungoo to Yangon. The Strand Cruise (%in the greatest comfort, with Thailand +66-9-4979 1324; new(ish) air-conditioned Local 32-seat minibuses www.thestrandcruise.com) express buses – some of bounce along the highways Named after its sister property which are quite nice. For too. These tend to use the in Yangon, this new luxury boat several long-distance routes, aisles, if not for people, has 27 en-suite cabins with many services leave between for bags of rice, veggies or floor-to-ceiling windows and tiny 4pm and 10pm or later, and (worst) dried fish. Some­ balconies for full river views. arrive at the final destination times the floor in front of you There’s a small pool surrounded in the wee hours (often 5am is filled too, so you’ll find your by sun loungers and compli- or 6am). There are a couple knees to your chin for some mentary spa treatments during of reasons for this: local bouncy hours. Getting up to the three- or four-night cruises people can’t afford to waste stretch your legs while mov­ between Mandalay and Bagan a working day on a bus so ing just isn’t an option. (Try (or vice versa). prefer to travel overnight; to sit in the front couple of Viking River Cruises (www. and the buses don’t overheat rows, which sometimes have vikingrivercruises.co.uk) This as much by avoiding the fewer bags stored, and better British operator runs the Viking punishing midday sun. visibility.) Mandalay, refurbished in 2013, on its two-week Myanmar If you want extra air-con Travelling times for all Explorer itinerary originating in comfort but don’t want to forms of public road trans­ Bangkok, with flights to Yangon go the whole way on one of port are very elastic and and then onto Inle Lake and these routes, you usually buses of all types do break Mandalay where you board the have to pay the full fare (eg down sometimes. Older bus­ boat for a trip downriver as going from Mandalay to es often stop to hose down a far as Sale. Rates start around Taungoo you pay the full fare hot engine. Some roads – UK£5569 per person. to Yangon) and will have to one-lane, mangled deals deal with the middle-of-the- (read: very rough) – don’t Bus night arrival time. Similarly, help matters, and tyre punc­ by paying the full fare for tures occur too. Almost always faster and the route, you can jump on cheaper than trains, Myan­ a bus at a stop along the Costs mar buses range from luxury way; for example, catch the air-conditioned express bus­ Mandalay–Y­ angon bus at Bus fares are in kyat. In some es, less luxurious but nice Meiktila. Staff at your guest­ locations, foreigners may pay buses (without air-con), local house or hotel should be able more than locals. buses to mini 32-seaters. to help with this. Reservations Similar-sized but older buses, with no air-­ From November to February it’s wise to prebook buses a couple of days in advance for BUS ROUTES FARE (K) DURATION (HR) 11,000 10 ROUTE 8000-11,000 6 Bagan–Taunggyi 5000 8 Mandalay–Bagan 10,000-13,000 7-8 Mandalay–Hsipaw 14,000 12 Mandalay–Taunggyi 14,200-15,500 9-10 Pyay–Bagan 4000 2 Yangon–Bagan 8000-10,000 6-7 Yangon–Bago 8000 5 Yangon–Chaung Tha Beach 11,000 9-10 Yangon–Kyaiktiyo 5500 6 Yangon–Mandalay 15,000 11-12 Yangon–Pyay 15,000 14 Yangon–Taunggyi (for Inle Lake) Yangon–Thandwe (for Ngapali)

424 in Yangon, Mandalay and Ba­ ROAD DISTANCES (miles) gan – as well as guesthouses and hotels elsewhere – can Tr a nsp o rt Car & M otor c y c l e Mawlamyine 185 175 arrange cars and drivers. Nay Pyi Taw 265 335 They can also be booked Nyaungshwe 420 430 200 online economically at Oway Mandalay 420 500 185 175 (Map p48; %09 45045 0601; Myitkyina 795 900 515 465 350 www.oway.com.mm; 9th fl, Sittwe 430 590 620 610 605 915 Grand Myay Nu Tower, 6/38 Ngapali Beach 200 380 460 465 450 760 205 Myay Nu St, Sanchaung) and Hpa-an 155 70 310 480 470 785 565 355 Flymya (Map p42; %09 79797 Pyay 170 355 365 350 335 655 255 120 330 8881; https://flymya.com; Pathein 140 315 390 565 615 925 380 165 295 280 Lanmadaw Plaza, Latha). Nyaung U 390 505 195 175 170 495 485 330 470 215 490 Taunggyi 415 485 200 15 175 495 605 450 445 340 545 Petrol & Tolls Yangon Petrol costs K650 per litre. Mawlamyine In rural parts of the country Nay Pyi Taw you’ll find roadside stalls Nyaungshwe selling bottles of petrol. Mandalay Myitkyina Another cost to consider Sittwe when travelling by car is the Ngapali Beach customary K100 to K200 Hpa-an ‘toll’ collected upon entering Pyay many towns and villages Pathein throughout Myanmar. Many Nyaung U drivers are adept at handing these to the toll collectors Approximate distances only while barely slowing down. key routes, such as Bagan– larly in popular destinations, The toll for private cars Inle Lake. Seat reservations such as Bagan, Mandalay using the expressway from are made for all buses – you and Inle Lake. Yangon to Mandalay is should be able to check the K5000, while to Nay Pyi Taw seating plan with the reserva­ When trying to find a car it’s K2500. tion agent. with driver, consider there are three unofficial types of Motorcycle Car & Motorcycle cars: & Mopeds Tourist cars These are reason- Hiring a car and driver for ably new, air-conditioned cars It’s occasionally possible to part or all of a trip is a good run by a company that provides rent a motorbike or moped, way to go, though not cheap. back-up or repairs in the event though few locals advertise To drive yourself, permission they break down. These are the this – and the authorities must be arranged via the most comfortable – and that air- frown on it since they don’t government-run MTT and con is handy when it’s dusty and want to deal with the com­ Road Transport Adminis­ hot out – but the most expensive plications of visitors involved tration Department (RTAD; option, running to about US$150 in accidents. In Mandalay www.myanmarrtad.com). to US$200 a day, depending and Myitkyina, for example, on the length of the trip. This it’s K10,000 per day to rent Driving conditions can price includes petrol for up to 12 a motorbike. Unlike cyclists, be poor but are often better hours’ driving per day and all of you’re required to wear a than on many roads in Viet­ the driver’s expenses. helmet in most towns. nam, Cambodia and Laos – Taxis A midrange option; these and outside the major cities, days there are plenty of taxis Note that motorbikes and traffic is comparatively light with working air-con on Yangon’s mopeds are banned in most compared to Thai or Viet­ roads and hiring one costs about of Yangon (they are common namese roads. Of the 15,000 K5000 per hour. in the far north of the city miles of roads in Myanmar, Private cars These vary in con- near the airport and across about half are paved; the dition (eg there might be no air- the river in Dalah). remainder are graded gravel, con) and price dramatically, and unimproved dirt or simple there’s less chance that you’ll Hitching & vehicle tracks. have any sort of replacement if Ride-Sharing the engine goes out mid-journey. Hiring a Car & Driver Rates for these cost from US$60 Hitching is never entirely safe or US$80 per day. in any country in the world, The best place to arrange a There are no car-rental agen­ and we don’t recommend driver, perhaps for a full trip, cies per se; Europcar Myan- it. Travellers who decide to is in Yangon, but it’s possi­ mar (www.europcar-myan hitch should understand ble to track down a ‘taxi’ or mar.com) is a new set-up ‘private car’ from most travel but currently rents cars with agencies and guesthouses drivers. Most travel agencies around the country, particu­

425 that they are taking a small from the bus station to a cen­ make rounds through the but potentially serious tral hotel – often a distance central streets to snare more risk. People who do choose of 1.25 miles or more – is passengers. to hitch will be safer if they between K1000 and K1500. travel in pairs and let some­ Short rides around the city Train Tr a nsp o rt L o c al T ransport one know where they are centre can be arranged for planning to go. between K500 and K1000. A train ride on Myanmar’s You may need to bargain narrow-gauge tracks is like One extra reason to avoid a bit. going by horse, with the hitching in Myanmar is that mostly antique carriages local drivers may not know Pick-up Trucks rocking back and forth and which areas are off-limits to bouncing everyone lucky foreigners and may unwit­ Japanese-made pick-up enough to have a seat on tingly transport them into trucks feature three rows of the hard chairs – sleep is such areas. In such cases bench seats in the covered practically impossible. Com­ the driver will probably be back. Most pick-ups connect pared to bus trips on the punished. short-distance destinations, same routes, taking the train making many stops along means extra travel time, on Local Transport the way to pick up people top of which likely delays (of or cargo. They are often several hours, if you’re un­ Larger towns in Myanmar packed (yet somehow never lucky) have to be factored in. offer a variety of city buses ‘full’ according to the driver). (ka), bicycle rickshaws Pick-ups trace some useful However, train travel is or trishaws (saiq-ka, for or necessary routes, such as cheap now that foreigners sidecar), horse carts (my- from Mandalay to Amarapu­ pay the same as locals. int hlei), ox carts, vintage ra, from Myingyan to Meik­ Routes sometimes get to taxis (taxi), more modern tila, from Bagan to Mt Popa, areas not reached by road little three-wheelers some­ and up to the Golden Rock at and the services provide a what akin to Thai tuk-tuks Kyaiktiyo. Unlike buses, they chance to interact with lo­ (thoun bein, meaning ‘three go regularly during the day. cals. ‘It’s not as bad as some wheels’), tiny four-wheeled people say, not as good as ‘blue taxi’ Mazdas (lei bein, Fares are not necessarily you hope’, one wise local told meaning ‘four wheels’) and cheaper than those charged us. The good news is that, in modern Japanese pick-up for local bus trips of the coming years, it will improve trucks (lain ka, meaning same length, and prices as the network receives ‘line car’). often go up more after dark. much-needed upgrades. You can, however, pay 25% to Small towns rely heavily 50% extra for a seat up the The Network on horse carts and trishaws front. It’s often worth the ex­ as the main mode of local tra expense, if you don’t want First introduced by the Brit­ transport. However, in big to do scrunch duty. Some­ ish in 1877 with the opening cities (Yangon, Mandalay, times you may share your of the 163-mile line between Pathein, Mawlamyine and spot with a monk riding for Yangon and Pyay, Myanmar’s Taunggyi) public buses take free; usually you get exactly rail network now has over regular routes along the what you pay for (‘the whole 3357 miles of 3.3ft-gauge main avenues for a fixed front’), unlike in some other track and 858 train stations. per-person rate, usually K50 parts of Southeast Asia. to K100. Extensions to the network, Pick-ups often start from adding another 2264 miles Standard rates for taxis, the bus station (in some of track, are slowly under trishaws and horse carts towns they linger under a big construction from Sittwe are sometimes ‘boosted’ for banyan tree in the centre) in the west to Myeik in the foreigners. Generally a ride and then, unlike many buses, south. Japanese investment and train know-how is also ROAD RULES: TO THE RIGHT! helping to upgrade the main Yangon–Mandalay line and All Myanmar traffic goes on the right-hand side of the Yangon’s Circle Line. road. This wasn’t always so. In an effort to distance itself from the British colonial period, the military government The 386-mile trip from instigated an overnight switch from the left to the right Yangon to Mandalay, via in 1970. Many cars either date from before 1970, or Bago, Nay Pyi Taw and Thazi, are low-cost Japanese models, so steering wheels are is the most popular train ride perilously found on the right-hand side – this becomes visitors take. Since 2016, particularly dicey when a driver blindly zooms to the left train 5/6, which leaves both to pass a car! Yangon and Mandalay at 3pm, uses new diesel electric locomotives and carriages bought from China. The

Tr a nsp o rt T ra i n426 Classes & Facilities there are also sinks to wash train’s air-cushion suspen­ hands and brush teeth. At­ sion system provides for a Express trains offer two tendants sometimes hire out smoother (but not faster) classes of passage – upper bamboo mats to spread on ride. There is no sleeper class and ordinary class; the floor in aisles or under carriage on this service; if long-distance trains may seats if you can’t sleep up­ you wish to book a sleeper also offer sleepers. The main right. It can get cold at night, for this route, those are only difference between ordinary so bring a jacket and/or a available on train 3/4, which and upper class is that the blanket. departs both cities at 5pm. seats recline and can be Other routes worth reserved in the latter, while The express trains are far considering: ordinary class features hard superior to the general run ¨¨Bagan to Yangon via upright seats that can’t be of Myanmar trains. Other Taungoo and Kyaukpadaung reserved. Some trains also trains are late, almost by rule. ¨¨Mandalay (or Pyin Oo Lwin) offer another class of service It’s not unheard of for the to Lashio (or Hsipaw), which called 1st class, which is a Mandalay–Myitkyina route, takes in hilly terrain missed step down from upper in scheduled to take around 24 by road (Paul Theroux comfort. hours, to end up taking 40 managed to do this back hours. Even on the Yangon– when foreigners weren’t There are two types of Mandalay route delays are supposed to, as described in sleeper carriage: common, particularly in the his book The Great Railway ¨¨standard sleeper – rainy season when the tracks Bazaar) four-berth and two-berth are prone to flooding. ¨¨Yangon to Mawlamyine via compartments with Bago, Kyaiktiyo and Mottawa doors onto a corridor and Reservations ¨¨Pyinmana to connections to the rest of Kyaukpadaung (31 miles the train Tickets can be bought di­ south of Bagan) ¨¨special sleeper – a rectly at the train stations. ¨¨Thazi to Shwenyaung (7 separate full-width Smaller stations sometimes miles north of Inle Lake) compartment with four require some perseverance ¨¨Yangon to Pyay. berths, a toilet and entrance to get a ticket, as agents An express line connects door, but no access through aren’t used to foreigners Bagan (Nyaung U) with Man­ the train. If you’d prefer to climbing on. dalay, from where there are move around the train and three other branch lines: one meet fellow passengers, A day or two’s notice running slightly northwest an upper-class seat will be is usually enough to book across the Ava Bridge and up better. a seat, but if you desire a to Ye-U; one directly north to In both types of sleeper car­ coveted sleeper, you’ll need Myitkyina in Kachin State; riage, linens and blankets are at least a couple of days’ and one northeast through provided. There’s a ceiling notice – longer during the Pyin Oo Lwin to Lashio in the fan and the windows open for high season (November to northern part of Shan State. ventilation. March). If you hold a seat on a Note, trains are classified train pulling a sleeper car, you by a number and the suffix Long-distance trains have can try to upgrade to a berth ‘Up’ for northbound trains dining cars accessible to after you board by paying the or ‘Down’ for southbound passengers in 1st, upper and additional fare directly to the trains. Train numbers are not sleeper class. The food isn’t conductor. always used when purchas­ bad – fried rice and noodles. ing tickets. Attendants can also take If you’re having trouble For more information on your order and bring food to buying a ticket or making all routes and services, a your seat or pass it through yourself understood at a good online source is www. the window. train station, try seeking out seat61.com. the stationmaster (yonepain Trains stop fairly often, in Burmese) – the person too, with vendors on plat­ at the station who is most forms offering all sorts of likely to speak English and snacks. Bathrooms are basic; most inclined to help you get a seat.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 427 Health The following advice is a gen- as is a combined vaccination describing your medical eral guide only and does not with hepatitis A. conditions and medications, replace the advice of a doctor including their generic trained in travel medicine. Measles, mumps and rubella names. (MMR) Two doses of MMR are ¨¨If you have a heart Before You Go required unless you have had condition, bring a copy of the diseases. Many young adults your ECG taken just prior to Insurance require a booster. travelling. Polio There have been no reported ¨¨Bring a double supply of Make sure your travel in- cases of polio in Myanmar in re- any regular medication in surance or separate private cent years. Adults require only one case of loss or theft. health insurance covers all booster for lifetime protection. ¨¨Take out travel insurance. possible health eventualities Typhoid Recommended unless in Myanmar – the country’s your trip is less than a week Websites health system is far from and only to developed cities. ideal and although Yangon has The vaccine offers about 70% Lonely Planet’s Healthy international-standard hospi- protection, lasts for two to three Travel – Asia & India tals for major incidents, an air years and comes as a single is packed with useful evacuation to neighbouring shot. Tablets are also available information. Other rec- countries may be required. but the injection is usually ommended references recommended as it has fewer include Travellers’ Health Recommended side effects. by Dr Richard Dawood and Vaccinations Varicella (chickenpox) If you Travelling Well by Dr Debo- haven’t had chickenpox, discuss rah Mills. Online resources: Proof of yellow-fever vacci- this vaccination with your doctor. nation will be required if you Centres for Disease Control have visited a country in the Medical Checklist and Prevention (CDC; www. yellow-fever zone (ie Africa cdc.gov) or South America) within ¨¨Pack medications in their MD Travel Health (www.mdtrav- the six days prior to entering original, clearly labelled elhealth.com) Myanmar. Otherwise, the containers. World Health Organization ¨¨Carry a signed and dated World Health Organization (WHO) recommends the letter from your physician (www.who.int/ith/) following vaccinations for travellers to Myanmar: HEALTH ADVISORIES Adult diphtheria and tetanus Single booster recommended if Consult your government’s website on health and travel none in the previous 10 years. before departure: Hepatitis A Provides almost Australia (http://smartraveller.gov.au) 100% protection for up to a Canada (www.phac-aspc.gc.ca) year. A booster after 12 months New Zealand (www.safetravel.govt.nz) provides at least another 20 UK (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice) years’ protection. USA (wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel) Hepatitis B Now considered routine for most travellers. Given as three shots over six months. A rapid schedule is also available,

H e a lth I n M yanmar428 and has similar symptoms to Traveller’s Diarrhoea hepatitis A, but is far less com- In Myanmar mon. It is a severe problem in By far the most common pregnant women and can result problem affecting travellers Availability & in the death of both mother is usually caused by a bac- Cost of Health Care and baby. There is currently no teria. Treatment consists vaccine, and prevention is by fol- of staying well hydrated; Outside of Yangon, Myanmar lowing safe eating and drinking use a solution such as Gas- medical care is generally guidelines. trolyte. Antibiotics such as dismal, and local hospitals HIV Unprotected sex is the main Norfloxacin, Ciprofloxacin should be used only out of method of transmission. or Azithromycin will kill the desperation. Contact your Influenza Can be very severe in bacteria quickly. embassy for advice, as staff people over the age of 65 or in will usually direct you to the those with underlying medical Loperamide is just a ‘stop- best options. conditions, such as heart disease per’, but it can be helpful in or diabetes; vaccination is rec- certain situations, such as if Be aware that getting ommended for these individuals. you have to go on a long bus Western-style health care There is no specific treatment, ride. Seek medical attention may not come cheap. An just rest and paracetamol. quickly if you do not respond initial consultation with an in- Malaria While not noted in to an appropriate antibiotic. ternational doctor in Yangon Yangon or Mandalay, malaria Amoebic dysentery is very rare will cost at least US$50. (which can be fatal if untreated) in travellers; one sign is if you is very much present throughout have blood in your diarrhoea. If you think you may have the rest of rural Myanmar in Treatment involves two drugs: a serious disease, especially altitudes below 1000m. Before Tinidazole or Metronidazole to kill malaria, do not waste time – you travel, seek medical advice the parasite in your gut, and then travel to the nearest quality on the right medication and a second drug to kill the cysts. facility to receive attention. dosage for you; note that some Giardiasis is relatively common. It is always better to be as- areas of the country have Symptoms include nausea, sessed by a doctor than to strains of the disease resistant bloating, excess gas, fatigue rely on self-treatment. to Mefloquine-based drugs. and intermittent diarrhoea. The Wherever you are, wear long treatment of choice is Tinidazole, Buying medication over pants and sleeves and spray with Metronidazole being a the counter is not recom- insect repellent to prevent bites. second option. mended in Myanmar, as Also sleep in air-conditioned or fake medications and poorly screened rooms with mosquito Environmental stored or out-of-date drugs nets over beds. Hazards are common. Rabies A potential risk, and in- variably fatal if untreated, rabies AIR POLLUTION Infectious Diseases is spread by the bite or lick of an Air pollution, particularly infected animal (most commonly vehicle pollution, is an The following are the most a dog or monkey). Pretravel increasing problem, particu- common infectious diseases vaccination means the postbite larly in Yangon. If you have for travellers: treatment is greatly simplified. severe respiratory problems, Dengue fever Increasingly prob- If an animal bites you, gently speak with your doctor be- lematic throughout Myanmar. wash the wound with soap and fore travelling to any heavily The mosquito that carries den- water, and apply iodine-based polluted urban centres. This gue bites day and night, so use antiseptic. If you are not prevac- pollution also causes minor insect avoidance measures at cinated, you will need to receive respiratory problems, such all times. Symptoms can include rabies immunoglobulin as soon as sinusitis, dry throat and high fever, severe headache, as possible. irritated eyes. If troubled by body ache, a rash and diarrhoea. Typhoid This serious bacterial the pollution, leave the city There is no specific treatment, infection is spread via food and for a few days and get some just rest and paracetamol – do water. Symptoms include high fresh air. not take aspirin as it increases and slowly progressive fever, the likelihood of haemorrhaging. headache, a dry cough and stom- DIVING Hepatitis A This food- and ach pain. Vaccination, recom- Divers and surfers should water-borne virus infects the mended for all travellers spending seek specialised advice liver, causing jaundice (yellow more than a week in Myanmar before they travel to ensure skin and eyes), nausea and leth- and other parts of Southeast Asia, their medical kit contains argy. All travellers to Myanmar is not 100% effective so you must treatment for coral cuts and should be vaccinated against it. still be careful with what you eat tropical ear infections, as well Hepatitis B The only sexually and drink. as the standard problems. transmitted infection (STI) that Divers should ensure their can be prevented by vaccination, travel insurance covers them hepatitis B is spread by body for decompression illness. fluids, including sexual contact. Hepatitis E Transmitted through contaminated food and water

429 Have a dive medical exami- TAP WATER H e a lth I n M yanmar nation before you leave your home country – there are ¨¨Never drink tap water. certain medical conditions ¨¨Check bottled water seals are intact at purchase. that are incompatible with ¨¨Avoid ice. diving, and economic consid- ¨¨Avoid fresh juices – they may have been watered erations may override health down. considerations for some dive operators in Myanmar. ¨¨Boiling water is the most efficient method of purifying. ¨¨Iodine, the best chemical purifier, should not be used FOOD by pregnant women or those who suffer with thyroid Rather than being overly con- problems. cerned at street stalls, where food is freshly cooked to ¨¨Ensure your water filter has a chemical barrier, such as order, note that eating in res- iodine, and a pore size of less than four microns. taurants is the biggest risk factor for contracting travel- heat, removing their clothes, and an antilice shampoo, such as ler’s diarrhoea. Avoid shell- applying cool wet cloths or ice to Permethrin. fish, and food that has been their body, especially to the groin Ticks Contracted after walking sitting around in buffets. Peel and armpits. in rural areas. If you are bitten all fruit, cook vegetables and Prickly heat – an itchy rash and experience symptoms such soak salads in iodine water of tiny lumps – is caused by as a rash at the site of the bite for at least 20 minutes. Eat in sweat being trapped under the or elsewhere, fever, or muscle busy restaurants with a high skin. Treat by moving out of the aches, see a doctor. Doxycycline turnover of customers. heat and into an air-conditioned prevents tick-borne diseases. area for a few hours and by HEAT having cool showers. Creams and SKIN PROBLEMS Many parts of Myanmar are ointments clog the skin so they Fungal rashes are common hot and humid throughout should be avoided. in humid climates; there are the year. It can take up to two two that affect travellers. The weeks to adapt to the hot INSECT BITES & STINGS first occurs in moist areas climate. Swelling of the feet Bedbugs Don’t carry disease but that receive less air, such as and ankles is common, as are their bites are very itchy. They live the groin, the armpits and muscle cramps caused by in the cracks of furniture and walls between the toes. It starts excessive sweating. Prevent and then migrate to the bed at as a red patch that slowly these by avoiding dehydra- night to feed on you. You can treat spreads and is usually itchy. tion and excessive activity in the itch with an antihistamine. Treatment involves keeping the heat. Bees or wasps If allergic to the skin dry, avoiding chaf- their stings, carry an injection of ing and using an antifungal Dehydration is the main adrenaline (eg an EpiPen®) for cream, such as Clotrimazole contributor to heat exhaus- emergency treatment. or Lamisil. Tinea versicolor is tion. Symptoms include Jellyfish In Myanmar waters, also common – this fungus feeling weak; headache; most are not dangerous. If stung, causes small, light-coloured irritability; nausea or vom- pour vinegar onto the affected patches, most commonly iting; sweaty skin; a fast, area to neutralise the poison. on the back, chest and weak pulse; and a normal Take painkillers and seek medical shoulders. Consult a doctor. or slightly elevated body advice if your condition worsens. temperature. Treat by getting Leeches Found in humid rain- Cuts and scratches easily out of the heat, applying cool forest areas. Don’t transmit any become infected in humid wet cloths to the skin, lying disease but their bites can be climates. Take meticulous flat with legs raised and rehy- itchy for weeks afterwards and care of any cuts and scratch- drating with water containing can easily become infected. es to prevent complications, a quarter of a teaspoon of Apply an iodine-based antiseptic such as abscesses. Imme- salt per litre. to any leech bite to help prevent diately wash all wounds in Heatstroke is a serious medical infection. clean water and apply anti- emergency. Symptoms come Lice Most commonly inhabit septic. If you develop signs on suddenly and include weak- your head and pubic area. of infection (increasing pain ness, nausea, a hot dry body Transmission is via close contact and redness), see a doctor. with a body temperature of with an infected person. Treat Divers and surfers should be over 41°C, dizziness, confusion, with numerous applications of particularly careful with coral loss of coordination, fits and cuts as they easily become eventual collapse and loss of infected. consciousness. Seek medical help and commence cooling by getting the person out of the

H e a lth I n M yanmar430 list of quality medical facilities Traditional Medicine SNAKES available at your destination Myanmar is home to many and ensure that you contin- Throughout Myanmar tra- species of both poisonous ue your standard antenatal ditional medical systems and harmless snakes. As- care at these facilities. Avoid are widely practised. Folk sume all snakes are poison- rural travel in areas with poor remedies should be avoided, ous and never try to catch transport and medical facil- as they often involve rather one. Always wear boots and ities. Most of all, ensure that dubious procedures with long pants if walking in an your travel insurance covers potential complications. area that may have snakes. all pregnancy-related possi- In comparison, traditional First aid in the event of a bilities, including premature healing systems such as snakebite involves pressure labour. Chinese medicine are well immobilisation with an elastic respected, and aspects of bandage firmly wrapped Malaria is a high-risk them are being increasingly around the affected limb, disease in pregnancy. WHO used by Western medical starting at the bite site and recommends that pregnant practitioners. working up towards the chest. women do not travel to areas The bandage should not be with Chloroquine-resistant All traditional Asian med- so tight that the circulation is malaria. None of the more ical systems identify a vital cut off, and the fingers or toes effective antimalarial drugs life force, and see blockage should be kept free so the are completely safe in or imbalance as causing circulation can be checked. pregnancy. disease. Techniques such as Immobilise the limb with a herbal medicines, massage splint and carry the victim Traveller’s diarrhoea can and acupuncture are used to medical attention. Do not quickly lead to dehydration to bring this vital force back use tourniquets or try to suck and result in inadequate into balance or to maintain the venom out. Antivenom is blood flow to the placenta. balance. These therapies available for most species. Many of the drugs used to are best used for treating treat various diarrhoea bugs chronic fatigue, arthritis, Women’s Health are not recommended in irritable bowel syndrome, pregnancy. Azithromycin is skin conditions and other Pregnant women should considered safe. chronic ailments. Don’t use receive specialised advice be- traditional medicines to treat fore travelling. The ideal time Birth-control options may serious acute infections, to travel is between 16 and 28 be limited, so bring adequate such as malaria. weeks, when the risk of supplies of your own form of pregnancy-related problems contraception. Heat, humidity Be aware that ‘natural’ is at its lowest and pregnant and antibiotics can all con- doesn’t always mean ‘safe’, women generally feel their tribute to thrush. Treatment and there can be drug in- best. During the first trimester is with antifungal creams and teractions between herbal there is a risk of miscarriage pessaries such as Clotrima- medicines and Western and in the third trimester zole. A practical alternative is medicines. If you are using complications – such as a single tablet of Fluconazole both systems, ensure that premature labour and high (Diflucan). Urinary tract in- you inform both practi- blood pressure – are possi- fections can be precipitated tioners what the other has ble. It’s wise to travel with a by dehydration or long bus prescribed. companion. Always carry a journeys without toilet stops; bring suitable antibiotics.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 431 Language Burmese is part of the Tibeto-Burman sound: hl (as in ‘life’), hm (as in ‘me’), hn (as in language family. As the national language of ‘not’), hng ( as in ‘sing’), hny (as in ‘canyon’). Myanmar (Burma), it has more than 40 mil- Note also that the apostrophe (’) represents lion speakers, of whom more than 30 million the sound heard between ‘uh-oh’, th is pro- use it as their first language. The variety of nounced as in ‘thin’ and ţh as in ‘their’. Burmese of Mandalay and Yangon, spoken throughout the central area of Myanmar, is There are three distinct tones in Burmese considered the standard language. Many (the raising and lowering of pitch on certain other languages are spoken in Myanmar, but syllables). They are indicated in our pronun- with Burmese you’ll be understood in the ciation guides by the accent mark above the whole country. vowel: high creaky tone, as in ‘heart’ (á), plain high tone, as in ‘car’ (à), and the low tone (a – There are two varieties of Burmese – one no accent). Note also that ai is pronounced as used in writing and formal situations, the oth- in ‘aisle’, aw as in ‘law’, and au as in ‘brown’. er in speaking and informal context. The main differences are in vocabulary, especially the BASICS most common words (eg ‘this’ is di in spoken Burmese, but i in the written language). The Burmese equivalents of the personal pro- phrases in this chapter are in the informal nouns ‘I’ and ‘you’ have masculine and spoken variety, which is appropriate for all feminine forms, depending on the gender situations you’re likely to encounter. Note of the person indicated by the pronoun. that many Burmese nouns are borrowed These forms are marked as ‘m/f’ in phrases from English, though the meaning and sound throughout this chapter. Depending on the may be somewhat different. pronoun (ie ‘I’ or ‘you’), these abbreviations refer to the speaker or the person addressed. In Burmese, there’s a difference between aspirated consonants (pronounced with a Hello. မဂၤလာပါ။ ming·guh·la·ba puff of air after the sound) and unaspirated ones – you’ll get the idea if you hold your Goodbye. သြားမယေ္ နာ္။ thwà·me·naw hand in front of your mouth to feel your breath, and say ‘pit’ (where the ‘p’ is aspirat- Yes. ဟုတ္ကဲ။့ hoh’·gé ed) and ‘spit’ (where it’s unaspirated). These aspirated consonants in our pronunciation No. ဟင္အ့ ငး္ ။ híng·ìn guides are said with a puff of air after the sàw·rì·naw sound: ch (as in ‘church’), k (as in ‘kite’), ş (as Excuse me. ေဆာရီးေနာ္။ sàw·rì·naw in ‘sick’), t (as in ‘talk’); the following ones are pronounced with a puff of air before the Sorry. ေဆာရးီ ေနာ။္ duh·şay’·lau’ WANT MORE? Please. တဆတိ ္ေလာက။္ jày·zù ding·ba·de For in-depth language information and Thank you. ေက်းဇးူ yá·ba·de handy phrases, check out Lonely Plan- et’s Burmese Phrasebook. You’ll find it at တငပ္ ါတယ္။ nay·gàung·là shop.lonelyplanet.com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks You’re welcome. ရပါတယ္။ gàung·ba·de at the Apple App Store. king·myà/ How are you? ေနေကာင္းလား။ shing·yàw (m/f) Fine. And you? ေကာငး္ ပါတယ္။ ခငဗ္ ်ား/ရငွ ္ေရာ။

432 What’s your name? It’s … နာမည္ ဘယလ္ ို nang·me be·loh behind … ေခၚသလဲ။ kaw·ţhuh·lè far away - - - အေနာကမ္ ာွ ။ … uh·nau’·hma in front of … uh·yàng wày·de L a n g uag e A C C O M M O D AT I O N My name is … juh·náw/juh·má left အရမ္းေဝးတယ္။ … sháy·hma က်ေနာ့/္ က်မ nang·me·gá … ba (m/f) near … - - - ေရွ႕မွာ။ be·be’·hma next to … ဘယ္ဘကမ္ ွာ။ … nà·hma နာမညက္ - - - ပါ။ right - - - နားမွာ။ … bày·hma straight - - - ေဘးမွာ။ nya·be’·hma Do you speak English? ahead ညာဘက္မွာ။ sháy·dé·dé·hma အဂၤလိပလ္ ို ìng·guh·lay’·loh ေရ႕ွ တည့္တည္မ့ ွာ။ ေျပာတတသ္ လား။ byàw·da’·thuh·là I don’t understand. နားမလည္ဘးူ ။ nà·muh·le·bòo ACCOMMODATION EATING & DRINKING Where’s a …? - - - ဘယမ္ ာွ လဲ။ … be·hma·lè Can you - - - တစခ္ ု … duh·kú bungalow ဘန္ဂလ ုိ buhng·guh·loh recommend အႀကံေပးႏွငိ မ္ လား။ uh·jang·bày· guesthouse တညး္ ခခို န္း dè·koh·gàn a …? naing·muh·là hotel ဟုိတယ ္ hoh·te bar အရကဆ္ ငို ္ uh·ye’·şaing Do you have - - - ရွသိ လား။ … shí·ţhuh·là a … room? cafe ေကာဖ္ ီဆုငိ ္ gaw·pi·şaing single တစ္ေယာကခ္ နး္ duh·yau’·kàng double ႏစွ ေ္ ယာက္ခနး္ hnuh·yau’·kàng restaurant စားေသာက္ဆိုင ္ sà·thau’·şaing twin ခတု ငႏ္ စွ လ္ ံုး guh·ding· ပါတအဲ့ ခနး္ hnuh·lòhng· I’d like a/the - - - လခုိ ်င္ပါတယ။္ … loh·jing·ba·de ba·dé·uh·kàng …, please. How much is it per night/person? table for (၄)ေယာကစ္ ာ (lày)·yau’·sa (four) စားပြ ဲ zuh·bwè nonsmoking ေဆးလိပ ္ şày·lay’ section မေသာက္ရတဲေ့ နရာ muh·thau’·yá· dé·nay·ya တစ္ည/တစေ္ ယာက ္ duh·nyá/duh·yau’ I’d like (the) - - - ေပးပါ။ … bày·ba ဘယေ္ လက္လဲ၊ be·lau’·lè …, please. bill ေဘာက္ခ်ာ bau’·cha Is there a campsite nearby? menu မီးႏူး mì·nù ဒနီ ားမာွ di·nà·hma that dish အဲဒီဟင္းခြက ္ è·di hìng·gwe’ စခနး္ ခ်စရာေနရာ suh·kàng·chá·zuh·ya·nay·ya wine list ဝငုိ စ္ ာရငး္ waing·suh·yìng ရိသွ လား။ shí·ţhuh·là DIRECTIONS Could you - - - မပါဘဲ … muh·ba·bè bying·bày· Where is …? … be·hma·lè prepare a meal ျပင္ေပးႏုငိ ္မလား။ naing·muh·là - - - ဘယ္မွာလဲ။ without …? What’s the address? lay’·sa·gá ba·lè butter ေထာပတ ္ tàw·ba’ လပိ ္စာက ဘာလဲ။ eggs ၾကက္ဥ je’·ú Could you please write it down? -ေရးမတွ ထ္ ားပါ။ yày·hmuh’·tà ba fish sauce ငျံ ပာရည ္ ngang·bya·yay Can you show me (on the map)? meat အသား uh·thà (ေျမပုံေပၚမာွ ) (myay·bohng·baw·hma) meat stock အသားျပဳတရ္ ည ္ uh·thà· ၫနႊ ္ျပေပးပါ။ hnyoong·byá·bày·ba byoh’·yay Turn … - - - ေကြ႕ပါ။ … gwáy·ba Do you have vegetarian food? သက္သတ္လြတ္ စားစရာ the’·tha’·lu’ sà·zuh·ya at the corner လမး္ ေထာင့္မာွ làng·dáung·hma ရသွ ိ လား။ shí·ţhuh·là at the traffic မီးပြဳငိ ္မ့ ာွ mì·pwáing·hma What would you recommend? lights ဘာအၾကေံ ပးမလဲ။ ba uh·jang·pày·muh·lè

433 What’s the local speciality? SIGNS di·myóh·gá suh·be·she ဒၿီ မဳိ ႕ကစပယရ္ ယွ ္ uh·sà·uh·sa·gá ba·lè အဝင ္ အစားအစာက ဘာလဲ။ အထြက ္ ဖြင ့္ Entrance Cheers! chì·yà ပိတ္ထားသည ္ Exit ခီ်းယား။ အခန္းအားရသွ ိ ည ္ Open အခန္းအားမရပိွ ါ Closed Key Words စုံစမ္းရန ္ Vacancies Language EMERGENCIES ရဲစခန္း No Vacancies breakfast မနက္စာ muh·ne’·sa တားျမစန္ ယ္ေျမ Information lunch ေနလ႔ ညစ္ ာ náy·le·za အမိ သ္ ာ Police Station က်ား Prohibited dinner ညစာ nyá·za မ Toilets snack Men အဆာေျပ uh·şa·byay ပ ူ Women စားစရာ sà·zuh·ya Hot ေအး Cold fruit အသးီ အႏ ွ ံ uh·thì·uh·hnang meat အသား uh·thà vegetable ဟငး္ သးီ ဟင္းရြက ္ hìng·ţhì·hìng·ywe’ bottle တစပ္ လု ငး္ duh·buh·lìng milk ႏု႔ ိ nóh bowl chopsticks ပန္းကနလ္ ံုး buh·gang·lòhng mineral water ေရသန႔္ဗူး yay·ţháng·bòo cup fork တူ doo orange juice လိမ္ေမာ္ရည ္ layng·maw·yay glass knife ခြက ္ kwe’ soft drink ေဖ်ာရ္ ည ္ pyaw·yay napkin plate ခက္ရငး္ kuh·yìng sugarcane juice ၾကံရည ္ jang·yay spoon teaspoon ဖန္ခြက ္ pang·gwe’ EMERGENCIES ဓား dà လကသ္ တု ပ္ ုဝါ le’·thoh’·buh·wa Help! ကယ္ပါ။ ge·ba Go away! thwà ပန္းကန ္ buh·gang သြား။ ဇြန္း zòong Call … - - - ေခၚေပးပါ။ … kaw·bày·ba လကဖ္ ကရ္ ညဇ္ ြန္း luh·pe’·yay·zòong a doctor ဆရာဝန ္ şuh·ya·wung Drinks the police ရဲ yèh (cup of) ေကာ္ဖ ီ gaw·pi I’m lost. làng·byau’·nay·de coffee … (၁)ခြက္ - - - (duh·)kwe’ … လမး္ ေပ်ာက္ေနတယ္။ (cup of) လကဖ္ က္ရည ္ luh·pe’·yay Where are the toilets? ayng·ţha be·hma·lè tea … (၁)ခြက္ - - - (duh·)kwe’ … အမိ သ္ ာ ဘယ္မာွ လဲ။ with milk ႏု႔နိ ႔ ဲ nóh·né I’m sick. nay·muh·gàung·bòo ေနမေကာင္းဘးူ ။ without သၾကား ţhuh·jà sugar မပါဘဲ muh·ba·bè It hurts here. ဒမီ ွာနာတယ္။ di·hma na·de wine ဝိုင ္ waing I’m allergic to (antibiotics). (အင္တဘီ ားေရာတစ္) (ing·di·bà·yàw·di’) red အန ီ uh·ni နဲ႔မတဲဘ့ းူ ။ né muh·dé·bòo white အျဖဴ uh·pyu ဘီယာ bi·ya SHOPPING & SERVICES thau’·yay beer yay·nwày Where can I buy (a padlock)? drinking water ေသာကေ္ ရ (ေဘာခ့ ေလာက္) ဘယ္မွာ (tháw·guh·lau’) be·hma hot water ေရေႏြး ဝယလ္ ို႔ရမလဲ။ we·lóh·yá·muh·lè

434 NUMBERS TIME & DATES Language TIME & DATES 1 တစ ္ di’ What time is it? uh·gòo be·uh·chayng·lè 2 ႏစွ ္ hni’ အခု ဘယ္အခ်နိ လ္ ဲ။ (hnuh·na·yi) shí·bi 3 သးုံ thòhng It’s (two) o’clock. (duh·na·yi) gwè 4 ေလး lày ႏစွ န္ ာရ(ီ ရၿွ ပိ ီ) 5 ငါး ngà Half past (one). 6 ေျခာက ္ chau’ (တစန္ ာရ)ီ ခြ။ ဲ 7 ခုနစ ္ 8 ရွစ ္ kung·ni’ morning မနက္ - - - နာရ ီ muh·ne’ … na·yi 9 ကိုး shi’ afternoon 10 တစ္ဆယ္ gòh evening ေနလ႔ ည္ - - - နာရ ီ náy·le … na·yi 20 duh·şe yesterday 30 ႏစွ ဆ္ ယ ္ hnuh·şe tomorrow ညေန - - - နာရ ီ nyá·nay …na·yi 40 thòhng·ze 50 သးံု ဆယ ္ lày·ze မေနက႔ muh·náy·gá 60 ngà·ze 70 ေလးဆယ ္ chau’·şe မနက္ဖန ္ muh·ne’·puhng 80 kung·nuh·şe 90 ငါးဆယ ္ shi’·şe Monday တနလၤာေန ႔ duh·nìng·la·náy 100 gòh·ze ing·ga·náy 1000 ေျခာက္ဆယ ္ duh·ya Tuesday အဂၤါေန ႔ boh’·duh·hòo·náy ခနု စဆ္ ယ ္ duh·towng jà·thuh·buh· Wednesday ဗဒၶဟူးေန ႔ dày·náy ရစွ ္ဆယ္ thau’·ja·náy Thursday ၾကာသပေတးေန ႔ suh·nay·náy ကးုိ ဆယ္ duh·nìng·guh· nway·náy တစ္ရာ Friday ေသာၾကာေန ႔ တစေ္ ထာင ္ Saturday စေနေန ႔ Sunday တနဂၤေႏြေန ႔ Can I look at it? jí·lóh yá·muh·là January ဇနန္ ဝါရီလ zuhn·nuh·wa·yi·lá ၾကည္လ့ ႔ိရု မလား။ February ေဖေဖာ္ဝါရီလ pay·paw·wa·yi·lá March မတ္လ ma’·lá Do you have any other? duh·chà shí·ţhày·là April ဧၿပီလ ay·byi·lá တျခားရိေွ သးလား။ May ေမလ may·lá June ဂြၽနလ္ joong·lá How much is it? da be·lau’·lè July ဂ်ဴလုငိ ္လ joo·laing·lá ဒါဘယ္ေလာက္လဲ။ August ၾသဂတု ္လ àw·goh’·lá September စက္တင္ဘာလ se’·ding·ba·lá Can you write down the price? October ေအာက္တိုဘာလ ow’·toh·ba·lá ေစ်းေရးေပးပါ။ zày yày·bày·ba November ႏုဝိ င္ဘာလ noh·wing·ba·lá December ဒီဇငဘ္ ာလ di·zing·ba·lá That’s too expensive. ေစ်းႀကးီ လြနး္ တယ္။ zày·jì·lùng·de What’s your lowest price? အနညး္ ဆးုံ ေစ်းက uh·nè·zòhng·zày·gá ဘယ္ေလာကလ္ ဲ။ be·lau’·lè There’s a mistake in the bill. TRANSPORT ဒီေျပစာမွာ အမာွ း di·byay·za·hma uh·hmà ပါေနတယ။္ ba·nay·de Public Transport Where’s a …? - - - ဘယမ္ ွာလဲ။ … be·hma·lè Is this the ဒါ (ေမာ္လၿမဳငိ ္) da (maw·luh· … to သြားတဲ ့ myaing) thwà·dé bank ဘဏတ္ ကို ္ bang·dai’ (Moulmein)? - - - လား။ … là internet အငတ္ ာနက ္ ing·ta·ne’ boat သေဘၤာ thìng·bàw cafe ကေဖး gá·pày bus ဘတစ္ ကား ba’·suh·gà market ေစ်း zày plane ေလယာဥ ္ lay·ying post office စာတကုိ ္ sa·dai’ train ရထား yuh·tà tourist office တးို ရစ္ရးံု dòh·yi’·yòhng

435 At what time’s - - - ဘတ္စကား … ba’·suh·gà the … bus? ဘယ္အခ်နိ ္ be·uh·chayng SIGHTSEEING ထြက္မလဲ။ twe’·muh·lè monument အထိမး္ အမွတ္ uh·tàyng·uh·hma’ first ပထမ buh·tuh·má ေက်ာက္တငုိ ္ jau’·taing last ေနာကဆ္ ံးု nau’·şòhng museum ျပတိကု ္ pyá·dai’ next ေနာက ္ nau’ old city ၿမိဳ႕ေဟာင္း myóh·hàung Language TRANSPORT One … ticket (ေတာငႀ္ ကးီ ) (daung·jì) palace နနး္ ေတာ ္ nàng·daw to (Taunggyi), - - - လကမ္ ွတ ္ … le’·hma’ ruins အပ်က္အစီး uh·pye’·uh·sì please. တစေ္ စာင ္ duh·zaung statues ရုပထ္ ု yoh’·tú ေပးပါ။ bày·ba temple ေစတ ီ zay·di one-way အသြား uh·thwà return အသြား uh·thwà Please take me to (this address). အျပန ္ uh·byang (ဒလီ ိပစ္ ာ)က ို (di·lay’·sa)·goh ပ႔ုေိ ပးပါ။ bóh·bày·ba At what time does it leave? Please stop here. di·hma ya’ ba ဘယအ္ ခ်နိ ္ ထြက္သလဲ။ be·uh·chayng twe’·thuh·lè ဒီမာွ ရပပ္ ါ။ How long does the trip take? ဒီခရီးက ဘယေ္ လာက ္ di·kuh·yì·gá be·lau’ ၾကာမလဲ။ ja·muh·lè Driving & Cycling Does it stop at (Bago)? (ပဲခးူ )မွာ ရပ္သလား။ (buh·gòh)·hma ya’·thuh·là I’d like to - - - ငာွ းခ်ငပ္ ါတယ။္ … hngà·jing· ba·de hire a … What’s the next station? ေနာက္ဘတူ ာက nau’·boo·da·gá bicycle စက္ဘီး se’·bàyng ဘာဘတူ ာလဲ။ ba·boo·da·lè car ကား gà Please tell me when we get to (Myitkyina). motorbike ေမာ္ေတာ္ဆငုိ ္ကယ ္ maw·taw· şaing·ge (ျမစ္ႀကးီ နား) ေရာက္ရင ္ (myi’·jì·nà) yau’·ying ေျပာပါ။ byàw·ba Is this the road to (Moulmein)? ဒီ - - - di … ဒါ (ေမာလ္ ၿမဳငိ )္ da (maw·luh·myaing) Is this … အားသလား။ à·ţhuh·là သြားတဲ့လမ္းလား။ thwà·dé·làng·là available? motorcycle- အငွား uh·hngà I need a mechanic. ေမာေ္ တာဆ္ ိုငက္ ယ္ maw·daw· မကငၠ ္းနစ္လုိခ်ငပ္ ါတယ။္ muh·gìng·ni’ loh·jing·ba·de taxi şaing·ke I’ve run out of petrol. rickshaw ဆကို က္ ား şai’·kà ဓါတ္ဆကီ ုန္သြားၿပ။ီ da’·şi gohng·thwà·bi taxi တကစၠ ီ de’·guh·si I have a flat tyre. bàyng·pau’·nay·de ဘီးေပါကေ္ နတယ္။

436 GLOSSARY Language GLOSSARY See p384 for some useful in – lake; eg Inle means little like Japan and China, and also words and phrases dealing lake enjoyed popularity for a time in with food and dining. IWT – Inland Water Transport ancient Southeast Asian coun- tries; also called the Northern Bamar – Burman ethnic group Jataka – stories of the Buddha’s School of Buddhism betel – the nut of the areca past lives; a common theme for MTT – Myanmar Travels & Tours palm, which is chewed as a mild temple paintings and reliefs mudra – hand position; used to intoxicant throughout Asia describe the various hand po- Bodhi tree – the sacred banyan ka – city bus sitions used by buddha images, tree under which the Buddha kalaga – embroidered tapestries eg abhaya mudra (the gesture of gained enlightenment; also ‘bo kamma – Pali word for the law fearlessness) tree’ of cause and effect; called karma myint hlei – horse cart in Sanskrit myit – river chaung – (gyaung) stream or kammahtan – meditation; a myo – town; hence Maymyo canal; often only seasonal kammahtan kyaung is a medita- (after Colonel May), Allanmyo chinlon – extremely popular tion monastery (Major Allan) or even Bernard- Myanmar sport in which a circle kammawa – lacquered myo of up to six players attempts to scriptures myothit – ‘new town’, usually a keep a rattan ball in the air with kan – (gan) beach; can also planned new suburb built since any part of the body except the mean a tank or reservoir the 1960s arms and hands karaweik – a mythical bird with chinthe – half-lion, half-dragon a beautiful song; also the royal naga – multiheaded dragon-­ guardian deity barge on Inle Lake; karavika serpent from mythology, often in Pali seen sheltering or protecting deva – Pali-Sanskrit word for KNLA – Karen National Libera- the Buddha; also the name of a celestial beings tion Army collection of tribes in northwest dhamma – Pali word for the kutho – merit, what you acquire Myanmar Buddhist teachings; called through doing good; from the nat – spirit being with the dharma in Sanskrit Pali kusala power to either protect or harm kyaik – Mon word for paya humans furlong – obsolete British unit of kyauk – rock nat-gadaw – spirit medium distance still used in Myanmar; kyaung – (gyaung) Myanmar (literally ‘spirit bride’); embraces one-eighth of a mile Buddhist monastery; pro- a wide variety of nat nounced ‘chown’ nat pwe – dance performance gaung baung – formal, turban- kyi – (gyi) big; eg Taunggyi designed to entice a nat to like hat for men; made of silk means big mountain possess a nat-gadaw over a wicker framework kyun – (gyun) island NDF – National Democratic gu – cave temple Force lain ka – ‘line car’ or pick-up ngwe – silver haw – Shan word for ‘palace’, a truck nibbana – nirvana or enlighten- reference to the large mansions lei bein – ‘four wheels’ or blue ment, the cessation of suffering, used by the hereditary Shan taxi the end of rebirth; the ultimate sao pha Lokanat – Avalokitesvara, a goal of Buddhist practice hintha – mythical, swanlike bird; Mahayana Bodhisattva (bud- NLD – National League for hamsa in Pali-Sanskrit dha-to-be) and guardian spirit of Democracy hneh – a wind instrument like the world an oboe; part of the Myanmar longyi – the Myanmar unisex pagoda – generic English term orchestra sarong-style lower garment; for zedi or stupa as well as hpongyi – Buddhist monk sensible wear in a tropical temple; see also paya hpongyi-kyaung – monastery; climate; unlike men in most pahto – Burmese word for see also kyaung other Southeast Asian countries, temple, shrine or other religious hsaing – traditional musical few Myanmar men have taken to structure with a hollow interior ensemble Western trousers Pali – language in which original hsaing waing – circle of drums Buddhist texts were recorded; used in a Myanmar orchestra MA – Myanma Airways the ‘Latin’ of Theravada hti – umbrella-like decorated Mahayana – literally ‘Great Vehi- Buddhism pinnacle of a stupa cle’; the school of Buddhism that parabaik – folding Buddhist thrived in north Asian countries palm-leaf manuscripts

437 paya – a generic Burmese term Slorc – State Law & Order (discourses of the Buddha) Language GLOSSARY meaning holy one; applied to Restoration Council and Abhidhamma (Buddhist buddha figures, zedi and other SPDC – State Peace & Develop- philosophy) religious monuments ment Council pwe – generic Burmese word stupa – see zedi USDP – Union Solidarity & for festival, feast, celebration or Development Party ceremony; also refers to public Tatmadaw – Myanmar’s armed UWSA – United Wa State Army performances of song and dance forces in Myanmar, often all-night (and taung – (daung) mountain, eg vihara – Pali-Sanskrit word for all-day) affairs Taunggyi means ‘big mountain’; sanctuary or chapel for buddha pyatthat – wooden, multiroofed it can also mean a half-yard images pavilion, usually turretlike on (measurement) viss – Myanmar unit of weight, palace walls, as at Mandalay taw – (daw) a common suffix, equal to 3.5lb Palace meaning sacred, holy or royal; it can also mean forest or wa – mouth or river or lake; Sanskrit – ancient Indian plantation Inwa means ‘mouth of the lake’ language and source of many tazaung – shrine building, words in the Burmese vocabu- usually found around zedi ye – water, liquid lary, particularly those having thanakha – yellow sandal- yoma – mountain range to do with religion, art and wood-like paste, worn by many ywa – village; a common suffix government Myanmar women on their faces in place names such as Monywa sao pha – ‘sky lord’, the he- as a combination of skin condi- reditary chieftains of the Shan tioner, sunblock and make-up zat pwe – Classical dance- people thein – ordination hall; called drama based on Jataka stories sawbwa – Burmese corruption sima in Pali zawgyi – an alchemist who has of the Shan word sao pha Theravada – literally ‘Word successfully achieved immor- saya – a teacher or shaman of the Elders’; the school of tality through the ingestion of sayadaw – ‘master teacher’, Buddhism that has thrived in special compounds made from usually the chief abbot of a Sri Lanka and Southeast Asian base metals Buddhist monastery countries such as Myanmar and zayat – an open-sided shelter or shinpyu – ceremonies con- Thailand; also called Southern resthouse associated with a zedi ducted when young boys from Buddhism and Hinayana zedi – stupa, a traditional seven to 20 years old enter a Thirty, the – the ‘30 comrades’ Buddhist religious monument monastery for a short period of Bogyoke Aung San who joined consisting of a solid hemispheri- of time, required of every young the Japanese during WWII and cal or gently tapering cylindrical Buddhist male; girls have their eventually led Burma (Myanmar) cone and topped with a variety ears pierced in a similar to independence of metal and jewel finials; zedi ceremony thoun bein – motorised three- are often said to contain Buddha shwe – golden wheeled passenger vehicles relics sikhara – Indian-style, corn- Tripitaka – the ‘three baskets’; zei – (zay or zè) market cob-like temple finial, found on the classic Buddhist scriptures zeigyo – central market many temples in the Bagan area consisting of the Vinaya (mo- sima – see thein nastic discipline), the Sutta

4 38 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Tamara Decaluwe, Terence Boley, Thomas Van Loock, Tim Elliott, Ylwa Alwarsdotter Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help- WRITER THANKS ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Simon Richmond Alex Wharton, Amy Nguyen, Andrew Selth, Many thanks to my fellow authors and the fol- Angela Tucker, Anita Kuiper, Annabel Dunn, An- lowing people in Yangon: William Myatwunna, nette Lüthi, Anthony Lee, Bernard Keller, Carina Thant Myint-U, Edwin Briels, Jessica Mudditt, Hall, Christina Pefani, Christoph Knop, Chris- Jaiden Coonan, Tim Aye-Hardy, Ben White, toph Mayer, Claudia van Harten, Claudio Strep- Myo Aung, Marcus Allender, Jochen Meissner, parava, Dalibor Mahel, Damian Gruber, David Khin Maung Htwe, Vicky Bowman, Don Wright, Jacob, Don Stringman, Elisabeth Schwab, James Hayton, Jeremiah Whyte and Jon Elisabetta Bernardini, Erik Dreyer, Florian Keesecker. Boos, Gabriella Wortmann, Garth Riddell, Gerd Eichele, Gill Reeves, Gillian Kennedy, Gregory David Eimer Kipling, Guillaume Murris, Hans-Martin Stech, Helle MØller Jensen, Ida Degani, Ilona van der Special thanks to Jochen Meissner for his in- lee, Izzie Robinson, Jan den Boer, Jeff Randall, valuable Chin State insights, John in Tiddim for Jim Loughran, Joanna Benefield, Johannes his local guidance and Marcus Allender. Thanks Gregoritsch, John Schilling, Joost Sneller, Julia also to Laura Crawford at Lonely Planet for Oppel, Justin Straub, Kathrin Zormeier, Kees her support. As ever, thanks to everyone who Mol, Ken Riekie, Luaay Elamir, Madeline Oliver, passed on tips along the way, whether know- Manuela Wehrle, Maria Aviles, Marjolaine & ingly or unwittingly. Hanael Sfez, Martijn den Boer, Maurice Michon, Mauro Mori, Melissa Goldstein, Merja Akerlind, Adam Karlin Michael Darley, Michal Rudziecki, Mollot Brice, Nigel Holmes, Noah Impekoven, Oddgeir Havn, Cè-zù ba: first and foremost, my family: Po Pamela Walker, Peter Novak, Philip Green, Chan, Tin Tin, Po Zaw and of course, my pwa Rebecca Rosz, Ruth Banks, Sebastian Lübbert, nghe and beloved great aunt, the strongest Silke Wimme, Simon Spillmann, Simona Demel, woman I know: Tin Tin Thein. Thanks as well to Simone Schneider, Sjoerd Gilin, Stefan Arestis, mom and dad for always making Myanmar a central part of my life, to Laura for bringing me

439 on board, to co-authors for all their help, and insight into this great country. I’d also like to BEHIND THE SCENES to Rachel and Sanda for the love that keeps thank Win Tun and his family, Dr Chan Aye, me going. This book is for Gizmo. Naw May Say, San Moe Zar, Mya Mya, Cho Oo, Armelle, Naing Naing, Maythinzar Soe, Nick Ray Simone Herault, Rosta, Tina Rehm, Edwin Briels and fellow authors Nick Ray, Simon A big thanks to the people of Myanmar, Richmond, David Eimer and Adam Karlin. whose warmth and humour, stoicism and Biggest thanks to Cassandra and our daugh- spirit make it a happy yet humbling place to ters, Magdalena and Genevieve, for their be. Thanks to fellow travellers and residents, enduring support. friends and contacts in Myanmar who have helped shaped my knowledge and expe- ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS rience in this country. Biggest thanks are reserved for my wife, Kulikar, and children, Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Julian and Belle, as without their support and Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- encouragement the occasional adventure in ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate unexplored corners of the region would not Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System be possible. Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Local fisher in Inle Lake, Regis St Louis Marco Bottigelli/AWL© Illustration p46–47 by Michael Weldon I’m deeply grateful to many in Myanmar – drivers, guides, innkeepers, students and countless others – who provided tips and THIS BOOK and Simon Richmond. This Bannister, Pete Cruttenden, guidebook was produced by Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, This 13th edition of Lonely the following: Rosie Nicholson, Kristin Odijk, Planet’s Myanmar (Burma) Destination Editor Laura Simon Williamson guidebook was researched and Crawford Cartographer Mick Garrett written by Simon Richmond, Product Editor Grace Dobell Cover Researcher Naomi David Eimer, Adam Karlin, Nick Senior Cartographers Alison Parker Ray and Regis St Louis. The Lyall, Diana Von Holdt Thanks to Ryan Evans, Kirsten previous two editions were Book Designer Jessica Rose Rawlings, Kathryn Rowan, Moe written by Austin Bush, David Assisting Editors Imogen Pwint Phyu, Lyahna Spencer, Eimer, Mark Elliott, Nick Ray Amanda Williamson

4 40 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A ATMs 410 Bilu Kyun (Ogre Island) 117 Pakhangyi 175 Aung Mingalar Island 99 Bird Island 102 Sasanayaunggyi Kyaung A Myint 179 Aung San, Bogyoke Black Rock 135 accommodation 25-6, 407, Bo Cho Kyun (Eyles Island) 174 (General) 342-4 Shwe Baw Kyune 299 see also individual Aung San Suu Kyi 346-51, 135 Shwe In Bin Kyaung 241 locations Bo Wei Kyun (Stewart Shwe Kyaung 150 language 432 366-71 Shwenandaw Kyaung 237 activities 17, 19-20, 29, see Ava 263-6, 265 Island) 137 Sitagu Buddhist Academy also cycling, golf, hiking Ayeyarwady River 291-304 boat travel 421-3 ballooning 156-7, 245 Aykab 314-18, 316 268 boxing 58 Ayeyarwady River 292-3 Snake Monastery 92 cooking courses 88, 157 B Yangon 56, 58 Thingaza Kyaung 244 diving 137 boat trips 27-8 Buddhist sites kayaking 297 Bagan 10, 156-71, 180-95, Peshawar Relics 239 meditation courses 59, 181, 184, 10, 61 Bagan 156, 165, 27 Pitaka Taik 187 246, 410 highlights 181 Inle Lake 207, 209 Buddhist temples snorkelling 99-100, 102 history 181-3 Mandalay 245 Abeyadana Pahto 192-3 swimming 56, 58, 245 information 157 Myeik 133 An Daw Paya 299 whitewater rafting 305 itineraries 188 Myeik Archipelago 137-8 Ananda Ok Kyaung 189 yoga 58 Myinkaba 167 books 29, 322, 336, 394-5 Ananda Pahto 187-9 air travel 418-19 New Bagan 167-71, 169 border crossings 418, 419 Anandar Paya 139 Akauk Taung 151 Nyaung U 158-64, 159 Mae Sai (Thailand) 230 Anauk (West) Petleik alcohol 382 Old Bagan 164-7, 166 Mae Sot (Thailand) 126 Amarapura 261-3, 262 orientation 157 Phu Nam Ron (Thailand) Paya 193 amusement parks temples 180-95, 181, Andaw Paya Kyet Minn Nyi Naung 184-5, 10, 61 129 Amusement Park 144 travel to/from 157 Ranong (Thailand) 139 (Mrauk U) 320 Natural World Amusement travel within 157-8 Ruili (China) 289 Andaw Paya (Thandwe) Park 51 boxing 58 Ananda Pahto Festival 19 Bago 88-94, 90-1 bridges 312 animals 397-8 ballooning Ava Bridge 268 Ashe (East) Petleik crocodiles 55 Bamboo Bridge 298 elephants 219, 397 Bagan 156-7 Paya 193 tigers 401 Mandalay 245 Gokteik Viaduct 280, 18 Atumashi Kyaungdawgyi antiques 256 Bamar people 352-3 U-Bein Bridge 261-2 archaeological zones banks 410 Buddhism 359-62 244 Mrauk U 318-25 Banmaw 297-9 Buddhist monasteries Aung Chan Tha Zedi 218 Tharabar Gate 187 Baronga Island 318 Bagaya Kyaung 263-4 Aung Htu Kan Tha Paya architecture 65, 388-9 beaches Ko Yin Lay 119-20 area codes 15 Chaung Tha Beach 99-102 Kya Kha Wain Kyaung 91 280 art galleries, see museums Kan Thar Ya Beach 313-14 Kyauk Kalap 124-5 Bawgyo Paya 283-4 & galleries Maungmagan 127 Kyo Aung Sanda 263 Bodhi Tataung 179 arts 389-95 Nabule 127 Ma Soe Yein Nu Kyaung Botataung Paya 36-7 Ngapali Beach 309-13, Bu Paya Zedi 133 Map Pages 000 244 Buledi 189 Photo Pages 000 310 Maha Aungmye Bonzan Bupaya 187 Ngwe Saung Beach 102-4 Central Pagoda 284 Setse Beach 118 264 Chaukhtatgyi Paya 51 Teyzit 127 Maha Ganayon Kyaung Daw Gyan 264 Bhamo (Banmaw) 297-9 Dhammayangyi Pahto 190 bicycle travel, see cycling 263 Dhammayazika Paya 194 Mimalaung Kyaung 185 Dukkanthein Paya 320 Myaing Gyi 280 Eight-Faces Paya 193 Pa-Auk-Taw-Ya Eindawya Paya 240 Monastery 116

441 Gawdawpalin Pahto Mahamyatmuni Paya Shittaung Paya 319-20 That Luang Mong La 228 I N D E X B -  C 183, 185 (Hsipaw) 284 Shwe Daza Paya 302-3 Thatbyinnyu Pahto 186 Shwe Inn Thein Paya 206 Thein Taung Paya 217-18 Gubyaukgyi 191-2 Mahamyatmuni Paya Shwe-kyet-kya 268 Theindawgyi Paya (Bago) Gubyauknge 189 (Lashio) 288 Shwe Kyina Paya 297 Haridaung Paya 323 Shwe Muay Wan Paya 297-8 Hintha Gon Paya 90 Mahazedi Paya 91 Theindawgyi Paya Hsin Khaung Taung Mann Paya 174 126 Manuha Paya 192 Shwe Myauk Taung 264 (Myeik) 131 Kyaung 215 Meilamu Paya 55 Shwe Myitsu Paya 296 Thetkyamuni 195 Hsinbyume Paya 270 Mingalazedi Paya 191 Shwe Phone Pye Paya Tilawkaguru 267-8 Hsu Taung Pye Zedidaw Mingun Paya 269 Twenty-Eight Paya 97 Mya Tha Lun Paya 155 211 U Khanti Paya 112 291 Myasigon Paya 144 Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung U Zina Paya 111-12 Htilaingshin Paya 265 Myikyaungon Paya 126 Uppatasanti Paya 147 Htilominlo Pahto 189 Myo Le Dhamma Yon 211 197, 2 Wat In 225 Htuparyon Paya 268 Nagayon 193 Shwedagon Paya 8-9, Wat Jong Kham 225 Kaba Aye Paya 55 Nan Paya 192 Wat Yang Kon 226 Kan Tu Kyaung 215 Nandamannya Pahto 195 45-50, 8-9 Werawsana Jade Pagoda Kaunghmudaw Paya 268 Nandaw Paya 312 Shwegugale Paya 91 Kondawgyi Pahto 195 Nga Hpe Kyaung Shwegugyi 186 262-3 Shwekyimyint Paya 240 Wetkyi-In-Gubyaukgyi Kothaung Paya 322, 12 (Jumping Cat Shwemawdaw Paya Kuthodaw Paya 240 Monastery) 206 189 Kyaik Pun Paya 90-1 Ngahtatgyi Paya 51 (Bago) 89 Kyaik-Khauk Paya 87 Nget Pyaw Taw Pagoda Shwemawdaw Paya Win Sein Taw Ya 116, 11 Kyaikmaraw Paya 118-19 215 Yadana Man Aung Paya Kyaikthanlan Paya Nogatataphu Paya 264 (Ye) 120 Nwa-la-bo Pagoda 116 Shwemokhtaw Paya 94-5 197, 201 111, 28 Nyaung Ohak 206 Shwemyetman Paya 154 Yan Aung Nan Aung Hsu Kyaiktiyo Galay Zedi 108 Omwara Paya 174 Shwesandaw Paya Kyanzittha Umin 195 Pada Myar Zeidy 290 Taung Pye Paya 197 Kyat Kan Kyaung 195 Pahtodawgyi 263 (Bagan) 190 Yanpaymanpay Paya 332 Kyauk Daw Kyi 56 Pahtothamya 185 Shwesandaw Paya Yat Taw Mu 225 Kyauk Gu Ohnmin 195 Paya Thonzu 174 Yat Taw Mu Pagoda 211 Kyauk-si-yo Zedi 108 Payagyi (Budalin) 179 (Pyay) 151-2 Yele Paya 87-8 Kyauktalon Taung 116 Payagyi (Dawei) 128-9 Shwesandaw Paya Youqson Kyaung 174 Kyauktawgyi Paya Payathonzu 194 budget 15 Peisi Daung Paya 322 (Taungoo) 143-4 Burma 25 (Amarapura) 262 Pharaouk Paya 322 Shwesandaw Paya Burmese Empire 338-40 Kyauktawgyi Paya Phaung Daw Oo Paya bus travel 422, 423-4 207 (Twante) 88 business hours 411 (Mandalay) 239 Phaung Daw U Paya 289 Shwesandaw Paya Laungbanpyauk Paya Pinya Stupa Ruins 241-2 C Popa Taung Kalat Temple (Ye) 120 320 172 Shwetaung Paya 323 car travel 424 Lawkananda Paya 193 Pyathada Paya 191 Shwethalyaung Buddha language 435 Laymyetnha Paya 322 Ratana San Rwe Paya Leikyunyinaung Paya 97 & Ratana Hman Kin 89-90 cathedrals, see churches & Leimyethna Pahto 194 Paya 322 Shwethalyaung Daw cathedrals Lokananda Paya 315 Ratanabon Paya 320 Maha Aung Mye Bon Ratanamanaung 322 Mu & Shinmokhti caves Sakyamanaung Paya 322 Paya 129 Hpo Win Daung Thar Pagoda 276 Sandamuni Paya 264 Shweyinhmyaw Paya 121 Complex 178 Maha Bodayaong 288 Sandaw Paya 312 Shwezedi Kyaung 314-15 Kaw Ka Thawng Cave Maha Kalyani Sima 91-2 Sanminedidisiv Paya Shwezigon Paya (Bagan) 125 Maha Myaing Pagoda 327-8 195 Kawgun Cave 125 Seindon Mibaya Kyaung Shwezigon Paya (Inwa) Kha-Yon Caves 119 108 112 264 Mahapasana 55 Maha Wizaya Zedi 53 Setkyathiha Paya 240 Sittana Paya 193 Myin Ma Hti Cave 218 Mahabodhi Mingala Settayaw Paya 97 Snake Pagoda 270 Peik Chin Myaung 281 Shin Pin Nan Kain 268 Somingyi Kyaung 193 Saddan Cave 124 Zedi 97 Shinpinsarkyo Paya 174 Soon U Pon Nya Shin Shark Cave 135 Mahabodhi Paya 187 Paya 266-7 Shwe Ba Taung 178 Mahabodhi Shwegu 320 Sulamani Pahto 190-1 Shwe Oo Min Natural Mahamuni (Bahaman) Sulamuni Paya 211 Cave Pagoda 215 Sule Paya 37-8 U Min Thonze Caves 268 Paya 111, 5 Tagaung Mingala Zeditaw Western Rocky 137 Mahamuni Paya 96 Yathaypyan Cave 125 Tayok Pye Paya 194 (Mandalay) 241 Thabeik Hmauk 191 Mahamuni Paya (Mrauk Thambula Pahto 194 Thanboddhay Paya 178-9 U) 325-6 Tharkong Pagoda 207

I N D E X C - I442 customs regulations 407-8 Rohingya 357 H cycling 419-21 Shan 357-8 cell phones 14, 413 Wa 358 Hakha 333-4 cemeteries Bhamo 298 etiquette 29, 382, 409 hamsa 89 language 435 events, see festivals & handicrafts 256 British War Cemetery Mandalay 247 events Hanlin 302 290 Ngapali Beach 310 e-visas 16 Hantharwady Village 264 Yangon 58 exchange rates 15 health 427-30 Lin Zin Kone Cemetery Eyles Island 135 263 D insurance 427 F traditional medicine 430 Rangoon War dance 392 vaccination 427 Cemetery 55 dangers, see safety Falam 332-3 hepatitis 428 Daung Kyun ferries 421-2 High Rock 136 Taukkyan War Cemetery festivals & events 19-20 hiking 55-6 (Dome Island) 135 Hsipaw 285 Dawei 127-31, 128 Bagan 194 Inle Lake 209, 217 central Myanmar 31, death railway 117, 118 nat pwe 363 Kalaw 217, 218-19, 221 141-79, 142 dengue fever 428 Thingyan (Water Festival) Kayin State 124 accommodation 141 diarrhoea 428 Kyaukme 281 climate 141 disabilities, travellers 19, 129, 362 Mindat 328 food 141 films 62, 336, 395 Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden highlights 142 with 416 food 17, 379-87 diving Rock) 107-8 Chauk Maung Na Ma 100 cooking courses Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Chaung Tha Beach 99-102 Myeik Archipelago 137 88, 157 children, travel with 67, Dome Island 135 Taung) 326-7 Dor Sor Bee 232 etiquette 382 Ngapali Beach 310 415-16 drinks 17, 381-4, 433 glossary 384-7 Nyaungshwe 201 Chin people 353 driving, see car travel language 432-3 Pindaya 215-16 Chin State 326-34 noodles 380 Putao 304-5 Chin villages 327, 24 E safety 329 Hindu temples chinlone 391 street food 70, 251 Nathlaung Kyaung 185-6 Christianity 365 eastern Myanmar 31, teahouses 76, 383, 384 Sri Ganesh Temple 240-1 churches & cathedrals 196-233, 198-9 vegetarians & vegans Sri Kali 44 accommodation 196 Sri Varada Raja Perumal Armenian Apostolic climate 196 384 Church of St John the food 196 fortresses Temple 44 Baptist 45 highlights 198-9 history 338-51 Moat & Fortress Walls Falam Baptist Church economy 373-5 239 2015 election 351 332 Eisan 232 colonial Burma 340-3 electricity 408 Sinkyone Fortress 264 post-1990 Myanmar First Baptist Church 112 elephants 397 Holy Trinity Cathedral 43 embassies 408-9 G 346-51 St George Anglican emergencies post-colonial Burma gardens, see parks & Church 211 language 433 gardens 343-6 St Joseph’s Cathedral telephone numbers 15 pre-colonial Burma endangered species 399 Gaungse Kyun (Shampoo 211 environment 396-402 Island) 112 338-40 St Mary’s Cathedral 43 environmental hazards hitching 424-5 St Peter’s Cathedral 96 428-30 gay travellers 409 HIV 428 cinema 62, 336, 395 environmental issues 400-2 gems 290, 376 Ho Lang 226 climate 14, 19-20, see ethnic groups 18, 352-8 geography 396 holidays 412 also individual regions Bamar 352-3 GLBT travellers 409 horse-drawn carriages 277 constitution 349, 373 Chin 353 golf hotels 26 consulates 408-9 Intha 353-4 cooking courses Kachin 354 Lashio 288 Hpa-an 121-4, 122 Bagan 157 Kayah 354 Mandalay 245 Hsipaw 12, 282-7, 284, 12 Thanlyin 88 Kayan 354-5 Nyaung U 160 Htay Ko 232 courses Kayin (Karen) 355 Putao 304 Htonbo 151 cooking 88, 157 Moken 355-6 Pyin Oo Lwin 276 human rights 375-7 meditation 59, 246, 410 Mon 356 Yangon 56-7 crafts 390-1 Naga 356 government 372-8 I credit cards 410 Rakhine 356-7 Great Swinton Island 136 crocodiles 55 guesthouses 25 immigration 418 cruising, see boat trips guides 28 In Phaw Khone 207 culture 336-7 Gwa 314 Indawgyi Lake 296-7 currency 14 Gyeik Taw 309 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

Independence Day 19 Inle Lake 206-11 Central Market 443I N D E X I -  M influenza 428 Inya Lake 55 (Kyaingtong) 225 Inle Lake 9, 206-11, 208, 9 Kandawgyi Mt Hpan Pu 124 Inle Lake region 197-223 Cinema Hall Market 289 Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) insurance 409, 427 (Mawlamyine) 116-17 Coconut & Banana internet access 409-10 Kandawgyi Lake 107-9, 60 internet resources 15 Wholesale Market 54 Mt Popa 172-3 Intha people 353-4 (Taungoo) 144 five-day market 203 Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung) Inthein 206 Kandawgyi Lake Flower Market 240 Inwa (Ava) 263-6, 265 Gold Market 120 326-7 Irrawaddy dolphins 301 (Yangon) 51-2 Hsipaw 284-5 Mt Ya-The 108 Irrawaddy River, see Lake Meiktila 150 Jade Market 240 Mt Zwegabin 125 Nyaung Toung 225 Kalaw 218 museums & galleries 80 Ayeyarwady River Rih Lake 331 Mingala Market 201 Islam 365 Lamaing 218 Myitkyina 291 Archaeological Museum itineraries 21-2, 21-2 Lampi Kyun (Sullivan’s Paik Swae 289 (Bagan) 164 Island) 135 Putao 304 K landscapes 17-18 Pyay 152 Archaeological Museum language 14, 431-7 Sake Nyein Zei 133 (Inwa) 264 Kachin people 354 Lashio 288-9 San Pya Fish Market 54 Kadan Island 132 legal measures 410 Si Pin Tharyar Zei 129 Bagaya Kyaung 262 Kakku 213 legends 108, 241 Sittwe 314, 315 Bogyoke Aung San Kalaw 13, 217-22, 218, 13 lesbian travellers 409 Theingyi Zei 54 Kalaymyo (Kalay) 329-30 LGBT travellers 409 Ye 120 Museum 53 Kan Thar Ya Beach 313-14 literature 29, 394-5 martial arts 391 Buddha Museum 268 Kanmaw Kyun (Kisseraing massages Cultural Museum 201 Loikaw 229-33, 231 Nyaungshwe 201 Death Railway Museum Island) 135 Lontha 309 Yangon 58 Karen people 355 Lovers’ Island 102 mausoleums 45, 54 117 Katha 300-1 Lwemun 297 Mawdin Point 99 Drug Elimination Kawthoung 138-40 Mawlamyine 11, 109-15, Kayah people 354 M 110, 113, 11 Museum 53-4 Kayah State 229-33 Maymyo 273-80, 274 Kachin State Cultural kayaking Macleod Island 137 measures 409 magazines 409 meditation courses 410 Museum 291, 294 Indawgyi Lake 297 Magwe 155-8 Mandalay 246 Maka Kuthala Kayan people 354-5 Maing Thauk 207 Yangon 59 Kayin (Karen) people 355 malaria 428 Mergui Archipelago see Kyaungdawgyi 315 Kayin State 121-6 Myeik Archipelago Mon Cultural Museum 111 Keinari Keinara 232 Mandalay 32, 234-60, 235, Meiktila 149-51 Museum in Commemo- Kennedy Peak 330 238, 242-3, 247 Meinmahla Kyun Wildlife keyholders 191 accommodation 234, Sanctuary 95 ration of Opium-Free Khaung Daing 210 246-50 Mindat 327-9 in Special Region 4 Kho Yinn Khwa Kyun activities 245 228 climate 234 Mingun 269-70, 269 National Landmarks (Macleod Island) 137 courses 246 mobile phones 14, 413 Garden 275 kingdoms 339 drinking & nightlife 253-4 Moeyungyi Wetlands 92 National Museum (Nay kings 340 entertainment 254-6 Mogok 289-91 Pyi Taw) 147 Kisseraing Island 135 festivals & events 246 Moken people 355-6 National Museum Kyaikkami 117-18 food 234, 250-3 Mon people 356 (Yangon) 39 Kyaing Ywar 119 highlights 235 Mon State 107-21 Pakhangyi Archaeologi- Kyaingtong 223, 224 history 236 money 14, 29, 410-11 cal Museum 175 Kyaukme 281-2 information 256-7 Mong La 227-8 Palace Museum 323 Kyaukmyaung 301-2 orientation 237 Mong Puen 228 Rakhine State Cultural Kyaukse 260 shopping 256 Museum 315 Kyauktan 87-8 sights 236-45 Monywa 176-8, 177 Sanda Muhni Phara Gri Kyun Philar (Great Swinton tours 246 mosques Kyaung Taik 323 travel to/from 257-9 Shan State Cultural Island) 136 travel within 259-60 Jama Mosque 315 Museum & Library 212 Surti Sunni Jamah Sri Ksetra Museum 154 L Mandalay Hill 236 Summit Art 52 maps 410 Mosque 45 Thanakha Gallery 158 Lahu Shi 226 marionettes 392 motorcycle travel 246, 424 music 392-4 lakes markets 17 Moustache Brothers 255 Myauk Taw Win Kyun (North Twin Island) 136 Indawgyi Lake 296-7 Bogyoke Aung San Mrauk U 12, 318-25, 321, 12 Myawaddy 126 Market 54, 2 Myeik 131-5, 132 Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago 11, 135-8, 11 Myin Dike 218 Myin Ka 218 Myinkaba 167 Myitkyina 291-6 Myit-Son 294

I N D E X N - T444 Paleik 270 Rangkhu 232 souvenirs 191, 61 palm sugar 173 religion 337, 359-65 spas N Pan Mraung 327 responsible travel 404-6 Pane Ne Pin 218 restricted areas 25 Nay Pyi Taw 147 Naga people 356 parasols 98 revolutionary Monks 343 Yangon 58 Nam Yi 228 parks & gardens sport 391 Nampan 207 Rih Lake 13, 331, 13 Stewart Island 137 nat 172, 362-4 Cape Bayint Naung 139 Rihkhawdar 331-2 Sri Ksetra 154-5 Nat Mataung 326-7 Floating Gardens 207 Rocky 1 135 street food 70, 251 nat pwe 363 Mahabandoola Rohingya people 357 Sullivan’s Island 135 National League for ruins superstitions 364-5 Garden 40 swimming Democracy (NLD) National Kandawgyi Chinthe Ruins 270 Mandalay 245 346-7, 350-1, 372 Hanlin 302 Yangon 56, 58 national parks 399, see Gardens 275 Pakhanngeh Kyaung 175 synagogues also parks & gardens National Landmark Yedanasimi Paya 264 Musmeah Yeshua Nationwide Ceasefire Agreement (NCA) 351 Gardens 146-7 S Synagogue 40 Nay Pyi Taw 146-9, 148 National Races Village 55 New Bagan (Bagan People’s Park 51 safety 412-13 T Myothit) 167-72, 193, Water Fountain Garden environmental hazards 169 428-30 Ta Moke Shwe Gu Gyi 261 newspapers 409 147 Tachileik 229 Nga Ka Pwe Taung 155 passports 418 Saffron Revolution 348 Tai Arkong 207 Ngapali Beach 309-13, 310 Pataing Hnyin 232 Tan Kyi Paya 187 Ngwe Saung Beach 100, Pataw Padet Kyun 132 Sagaing 11, 266-9, 10 Tanintharyi Region 127-40 102-4 sailing 58, see also boat Taoist temples North Twin Island 136 Pathein 94-9, 96 northern Myanmar 32, Patingone 218 travel Kheng Hock Keong 43 271-306, 272 paya pwe 20 Salay 173-5 Tar Yaw 218 accommodation 271 permits 23, 25 Samkar 207 tattooed faces 327 climate 271 Phaya Taung 207 sculpture 389-90 Taungbyone Nat Pwe 20 food 271 photography 411-12 Shampoo Island 112 Taunggok 313 highlights 272 Pin Tau 226 Shan people 357-8 Taunggyi 211-15 numerology 364-5 Pindaya 215-17 shopping 17, see also Taungoo (Toungoo) 143-6 Nyaung U 158-64, 195, 159 planning 23-9 Taung Taw Win Kyun Nyaung Wee Kyun 136 markets, individual Nyaungshwe 197-206, Ayeyarwady River 292-3 locations (South Twin Island) 136 200-1 budgeting 14-15 language 433-4 Tawtamagyi 232 calendar of events 19-20 Tazaungdaing 20 O internet resources 15 Shwebo 302-4, 303 teahouses 76, 383, 384 Shwedaung 154 telephone services 15, Ogre Island 117 itineraries 21-2, 21-2 Shwegu 299-300 Old Bagan 164-7, 183-7, 166 Myanmar basics 14-15 Siang Sawn 330 413-14 opening hours 411 Myanmar’s regions Sittwe (Aykab) 314-18, temples 17, 60-1, see also P 30-2 Buddhist temples, repeat visitors 16 316 Hindu temples and packing list 23 responsible travel smoking 409 Taoist temples Pah Pae 232 snorkelling painting 389-90 404-6 Thahtay Kyun 137 Pakokku 175-6 travel seasons 14, 19-20 Chaung Tha Beach Than Daung Gyi 145 palaces plants 398-9 99-100 thanakha 158, 303 politics 336-7, 372-3 Thanbyuzayat 117 Bagan Golden Palace population 337, 374 Ngwe Saung Beach 102 Thandwe 312 164-5 postal services 412 social enterprise Thanlyin 87-8 private guides 28 That Jom Loi 226 Kanbawzathadi public holidays 412 restaurants & cafes 73 Thaung Thut 207 Palace 92 Putao 304-6 South Twin Island 136 Thayekhittaya (Sri Ksetra) southeastern Myanmar 31, Mandalay Palace 237-9 Pyay 151-4, 152 154-5 Shan Palace 283 Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymo) 105-40, 106 Thazi 223 Shwebon Yadana 302 accommodation 105 Thingyan (Water Festival) 273-80, 274 climate 105 Map Pages 000 food 105 19, 362 Photo Pages 000 R highlights 106 theatre 392 southwestern Myanmar 30, Tiddim 330-1 rabies 428 86-104, 87 tigers 401 radio 409 accommodation 86 rafting 305 climate 86 Tilawkaguru 267-8 10 Rakhine people 356-7 food 86 Rakhine State 309-26 highlights 87

445 time 14, 414 vegetarians & vegans 384 food 307 climate 34 I N D E X T -  Z language 434 visas 14, 16, 23, 416 highlights 308 courses 59 volunteering 416-17 Wethali 325 drinking & nightlife 75-8 tipping 411 whitewater rafting entertainment 78 toilets 414 W Putao 305 festivals & events 59-62 Toungoo 143-6 wildlife 396-402 food 34, 68-75 tourist information 414 Wa people 358 crocodiles 55 highlights 35 tours 28 Wabo 318 elephants 397 history 36 traditional medicine 430 walking, see hiking plants 398-9 information 82-3 train travel 425-6 walking tours tigers 401 itineraries 37 transport 26-8, 418-26, wildlife reserves orientation 36 Mawlamyine 113, 113 Green Hill Valley 219 shopping 78-85 420 Yangon 56-7, 58, 56-7 wineries sights 36-56 language 434-5 Wan Loi 226 Myanmar Vineyard 211-12 tours 58 travel agencies 414-15 Wan Nyek 226 Red Mountain Estate travel to/from 83-4 travel restrictions 23, 25, Wan Saen 226 travel within 85 225, 228, 273, 295 Wan Sai 226 201, 24 travel to/from Myanmar 418 waterfalls women in Myanmar 358-9 walks 56-7, 58, 56-7 travel within Myanmar Anisakan Falls 281 women travellers 417 Yangon–Bagan Highway 418-26, 420 King Chaung Waterfall women’s health 430 trekking, see hiking work 417 151-6 TV 409 290 workshops 285 Yangon Circle Line 59 Twante 88 Mo-Baw Waterfall 108 Yangon–Mandalay Hwy typhoid 428 Pwe Kauk Falls 280 gold 240 Wat Nong Luang 228 silk 263 143-51 U Water Festival (Thingyan) silverware 268 Yankin Hill 242-4 19, 362 stone carvers 245 Ye 119-21 Union Solidarity & weather 14, 19-20, see also yoga 58 Development Party individual regions Y Ywama 206 (USDP) 372-3 weights 409 Ywathit 218 western Myanmar 32, Yangon 30, 34-85, 35, V 307-34, 308 38-9, 42-3, 48-9, 52 Z accommodation 307 accommodation 34, 62-8 vacations 412 climate 307 Zarganar 394 vaccinations 427

446 NOTES

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 447 Map Legend Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Walking Tour Shinto Beach Walking Tour detour Sikh Gate Path/Walking Trail Taoist Hut/Shelter Winery/Vineyard Lighthouse Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Lookout Other Sight Mountain/Volcano International Oasis State/Province Activities, Park Disputed Courses & Tours Pass Regional/Suburb Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (National) Skiing Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Snorkelling City/Large Town Intermittent River Surfing Town/Village Canal Swimming/Pool Walking Transport Water Windsurfing Other Activity Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Border crossing Sleeping Bus Reef Cable car/Funicular Sleeping Cycling Areas Camping Ferry Metro/MRT/MTR station Airport/Runway Eating Monorail Parking Beach/Desert Eating Petrol station Skytrain/Subway station Cemetery (Christian) Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Train station/Railway Cemetery (Other) Drinking & Nightlife Tram Cafe Underground station Glacier Other Transport Entertainment Mudflat Note: Not all symbols displayed above Entertainment appear on the maps in this book Park/Forest Shopping Sight (Building) Shopping Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

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