Rmi And Whittaker Mountaineering Gear Guides Mount Mckinley Expedition

MOUNT MCKINLEY EXPEDITION

GEAR GUWIEDLCEOME TO THE TEAM Dear Climber, Welcome to Denali, The Great One! An expedition to Mount McKinley is truly an experience of a lifetime. At 20,320’, it is the highest peak in North America and one of the continental seven summits. This three week expedition has all the elements of a ful scale Himalayan trip and is an absolutely classic mountaineering adventure; we look forward to climbing with you! Climbers know that efficiency is key to enjoying adventures in the mountains. In addition to all of the training you are doing, part of the preparation for your climb is making sure that you have the proper gear. The right equipment choices provide an added degree of comfort and safety, allowing you to focus on the climb and enjoy the experience. Preparing for a McKinley expedition takes a lot of work. Training will require a lot of your time and pulling together all the right gear and clothing can be time consuming as well. There are a lot of options when it comes to outdoor products and navigating all the choices can be overwhelming. That is why we created this Gear Guide to help simplify the outfitting process. On the following pages we share our philosophy, tips and advice, and specific functions and features of each equipment item listed for the RMI Denali trip, We also identify the products that we believe are the “best in class” and ideal for climbing McKinley. Guiding climbers on Mt. Rainier since 1969 and Mount McKinley since 1975 has given us a pretty good idea about what works and what doesn’t up on the mountain. As your guides, we commit to helping you prepare before the trip just as much as we commit to professional –quality guiding once your climb begins. We are excited to have you join us! See you on the mountain soon! Peter Whittaker Co-Owner of RMI Expeditions and Whittaker Mountaineering

TABLE OFTable of Contents 2. Welcomeof 3. Table of Contents4. Pack & Bag: Backpacks5. Pack & Bag: Duffel Bags6. Pack & Bag: Sleeping Bags and Stuff Sacks7. Pack & Bag: Sleeping Pads8. Technical Gear: Ice Axes and Crampons9. Technical Gear: Harnesses and Snowshoes10. Technical Gear: Helmets and Mechanical Ascenders 11. Technical Gear: Carabiners and Cordingall 12. Technical Gear: Trekking Poles and Avalanche Transceivers13. Head: Glacier Glasses14. Head: Goggles and Hats These blue boxes15. Hands: Gloves contain helpful16. Feet: Mountaineering Boots information including17. Feet: Overboots and Booties images, tips, and18. Feet: Gaiters and Socks videos from our19. Upper Body: General Layering guides about the20. Upper Body: Baselayers McKinley - West Buttress Climb.21. Upper Body: Light and Medium Insulation22. Upper Body: Insulated and Hard Shell Jackets23. Upper Body: Parka24. Lower Body: General Layering, Underwear and Baselayers25. Lower Body: Climbing, Hard Shell and Insulated Pants26. Accessories27. Rentals and Meal Plans

PACK & BAGBackpack A 90+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb. Your pack mustbe large enough for all personal clothing and equipment, in addition to the group food andgroup gear.Pack Tips It is essential that FULLY LOADED FOR THEyour pack is large enough toaccommodate the personal gear, CARRY TOgroup food and equipment we bring toDenali. A party of 12 will bring 5 tents,a cook tent, six stoves, several gallonsof fuel, kitchen gear, and 22 days offood. Even with the use of sleds, it ispreferable to have a backpack that istoo large rather than too small. Weleave the sleds at 11,000 ft. From therewe will be carrying all our gear up tothe higher camps.Check out WhittakerMountaineering's Backpack Guide forthe specifics of finding the right pack.RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer'sPRaecakdinygtoTiSptsart Packing? Read RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer's Packing Tips on the RMIBlog.MOUNTAIN MEN'S WOMEN'SHARDWEAR GREGORY OSPREY B DENALI 100 XENA 85

PACK[&PBAAGCK & BAG]Duffel Bag A 100+ liter bag made of tough material with rugged zippers. This duffelwill be used on the mountain to transport gear. Carrying Your Gear The duffel bag will ride on a sled behind you as you climb the lower portions of the mountain and then be used to store gear in caches or camps along the way. When choosing a duffel, look for one with a single large compartment and go for more volume - it’s easier to pack bulky items like food bags with more space and you can always compress the bag if there is extra room. Lashing extra items to the outside of the bag is not ideal when traveling on a glacier in case there is a crevasse fall. Also, remember to take into account the weight of the bag. Fully rubberized duffels are a nice way to help keep things dry but add several pounds to the weight of the bag itself. Many climbers choose to go with a simple heavy duty nylon bag and line the duffel with a garbage bag when packing - you get the same waterproofing without the added weight. If the bag gets wet it’s easy to shake out the moisture once it freezes overnight.MOVING TO CAMP 1 GREGORY THE NORTH FACE MOUNTAIN OUTDOORSTASH DUFFEL BASE CAMP 155L HARDWEAR PRODUCTS LIGHTWEIGHT

PACK & BAGSleeping Bag & Stuff Sack A bag rated between -30° and -20° F. Eithergoose down or synthetic, with ample room for movement. Most guides prefer down,because it is lightweight and compactable. A waterproof bag is preferred, but not mandatoryThe temperature rating system for sleeping bags is arbitrary and is not a guarantee ofwarmth. Base your selection on how well you do in the cold. If you tend to sleep on the coldside, choose a bag rated on the lower end of the temperature range. Using two sleeping bagtogether is not recommended.The Right Sleeping Bag Since precipitation on Denali is typically snow rather than rain, most guides prefer down sleeping bags because they compact more easily than synthetic, leaving a little more room when packing your pack. Remember that it gets cold in Alaska, especially in the early parts of the climbing season, and at high camp, so bring a warm bag. You can always vent a little bit if you’re too warm! You can also add a little extra warmth by wearing additional layers while inside your sleeping bag - those extra layers trap more of your body’s heat.MEN'S WOMEN'S FEATHERED MARMOT FEATHERED FRIENDS SEA TO SUMMIT FRIENDS COL MEMBRAIN PLOVER EX -25 EVENT COMPRESSIONPEREGRINE EX -25 -20 STUFF SACKSaving Space Space in your pack is key on a long expedition like Denali. See if youcan use extra space in your compression stuff sack to your advantage. Is there enough roomfor your extra long underwear layers? Puffy pants? A few pair of socks? Compressing themalong with your sleeping bag in your compression stuff sack will open up a little more room inyour pack!

PACK & BAG Sleeping Pad Inflatable Sleeping Pad Inflatably. Combination a key role in e pads tend to be more comfortable, but they can be punctured. A full length pad insulates you Your sleeping pads play from the ground far better than a 3/4 length. keeping you warm in camp. They insulate you from the ice and snow below andgs keep you from losing body heat directly into the ground. Using both a closed cell THERM-A-REST T N foam pad and inflatable pad offers a good combination of insulation and comfort: the closed cell foam pad underneath insulates from the snow and the inflatable pad on tops lifts you off of the potentially colder foam pad beneath. Remember that the thicker the pad, the further you are off of the snow so you’ll sleep warmer! One of your pads must be full length. THERM-A-REST P Closed Foam Sleeping Pad A second full-length or 3/4 length closed cell foam pad is required. This pad is used in combination with the first sleeping pad. T THERM-A-REST R CATCHING A FEW Z'S ON A CLOSED FOAM PAD

TECHNICALIce Axes on McKinley Unlike Ice Axes The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the followingmany mountains of smaller scale, we will climb with general mountaineering formula: up toan ice axe leash on Denali. We want to avoid losing 5'8\", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8\" to 6'2\", use aour axes midway through an expedition in the eventof a slip or fall. The leash won't actually go to your 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. Ifwrist but instead to your harness, making it far you hold the axe so that it hangseasier to swap hands with the axe. Some climbers comfortably at your side, the spike of thechoose to take a little scrap of old foam pad and axe should still be a few inches above theplace it around the head of the axe, leaving the pick ground.and adze exposed, and then wrapping it with ducttape to secure it. This provides a little bit of PETZL BLACK DIAMONDinsulation from the cold conductive metal on GLACIER RAVEN PROsummit day and keeps your hands warm. Makesure you are conservative with the size of the foamand only cut what you need - you don't want tocompromise the function of the axe by minimizingthe pick of the adze or making it difficult to gripsecurely. Product VideoFitting Crampons We find that a Crampons 12 point adjustable12-point rather than a 10-point crampon is crampons designed for generalbeneficial should icy conditions be encountered. mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frameAvoid aluminum crampons as they are easily crampons designed for technical icedamaged on rock. Your crampons should be climbing are not recommended.adjusted so that the sole of the boot sits snugly onthe crampon frame, and the toe and heel bailssnug securely around the boot, minimizing anymovement. Crampons are right and left foot BLACK DIAMOND GRIVELspecific, with the buckles designed to sit to the SERAC G12outside of the ankle, and the adjustment bar bentto mirror the shape of the foot. Typically, straps runfrom the ankle, through the toe bail, and to thebuckles on the outside of the ankle. Excess straplength can be trimmed or tucked inside the velcroon the front of the gaiters. To learn more, check outthe Whittaker Mountaineering Guide to Ice Axesand Crampons.

TECHNICAL Harnesses We recommend an alpine climbing harness. Alpine Harness vs. Rock Harness We suggest an alpine climbing harness vs. a rock climbing harness. You spend a lot of time walking in the harness and notf hanging in it. Alpine harnesses are generally simple designs with less padding on the hip and waist belts. They are lighter and allow a greater range of motion; making them easier to wear with a pack when climbing for long periods. Removable, drop seat or adjustable leg loops are more convenient for managing clothing layers over the course of the day and facilitate going to the bathroom. MAMMUT MEN'S BLACK DIAMOND WOMEN'SZEPHIR ALTITUDE COULOIR PETZL PETZL ADJAMA LUNAClimbing in Snowshoes Snowshoes Snowshoes Select a short totake a bit of getting used to if you've never climbed with medium length model of snowshoe.them before, especially when carrying a pack, tied in on The 22\" model and the optional heela climbing rope, and hauling a sled. It's definitely worth lift work well for most climbers.your time to take them out a few times before you head Team members are more ofteninto the mountains. When practicing, make sure you are 'drafting' as opposed to actuallycomfortable getting them on and off your climbing boots breaking trail, so it is not necessarywhile wearing gloves. This will save you some headache to have a longer pair. The 'shoes- and cold fingers - once you get to the mountain. should have an attached claw or crampon for better purchase. MSR R HIKE TO CAMP 2 9,500'

TECHNICALHelmet A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (EuropeanCommittee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet. Bicycle or ski helmets aredesigned for a different type of impact and will not substitute as a climbing helmet. Helmet Fit Your helmet should fit comfortably with and without a hat. It should be tight enough that it won't slide around when you move your head, but not so tight that it creates uncomfortable pressure. The helmet should sit much like a regular hat: directly on top of your head with the front just above your brow. A good fit will not allow the helmet to slide back on your head and leave your forehead exposed.BLACK DIAMOND MEN'S BLACK DIAMOND WOMEN'S HALF DOME VAPOR PETZL PETZL ELIOS ELIAProduct Video Product VideoMechanical Ascender For traveling on fixed ropes. Most people prefer anascender designed for their weak hand, leaving their strong hand free to hold their ice axe. FFinding the Right Ascender There are several brands and PETZL ASCENSIONmodels of mechanical ascenders on the market, and most function essentiallythe same. Thus, ergonomics and ease of opening and closing the rope cam arethe most important factors when choosing an ascender. When climbing, youwill be operating the ascender with gloves on, so it isn't a bad idea to put on apair of gloves and try operating them to get an idea of which is easiest.Ascenders come in either right or left hand configurations, but either can beused with either hand, thus which you choose is not of great importance.

TECHNICALLocking Carabiner You will need one triple action locking carabiner used forclipping into the climbing rope.Triple Action Carabiner A triple action carabiner is a lockingcarabiner that requires three steps to open: 1) lifting the lock, 2) twisting the PETZLlock, and 3) pushing the gate open. It then \"auto-locks\" when the gate is WILLIAM TRIACTreleased. The three-step to open and auto-locking to close actions make themsafer than standard screwgate locking carabiners as they are unlikely toinadvertently move to the open position during the climb. For this reason, werequire that all climbers use a triple action locking carabiner to tie into the ropeon our climbs.Screwgate Carabiner You will Non-locking Carabiners Youneed two screw gate carabiner, used for will need six non-locking carabiners. Theseclipping into anchors during crevasse rescue,carabiners have a multitude of uses. They arecreating a sled haul system, etc. used for creating anchor systems, crevasse self rescue, a pack ditch loop, etc.BLACK DIAMOND BLACK DIAMOND BLACK DIAMOND PETZL HOTWIRE ANGE LROCKLOCK SCREWGATE MINI PEARABINER Perlon Cord You will need 24' of 6 mm and 15' of 7 mm cord for sled tether, sled prussik and pack ditch loop.For Slings You will need two 60 cm slings and two 120 cm slings. These will be used to rig your ascender, as an ice axe leash and for other miscellaneous applications. Get pre- sewn slings like the Black Diamond Dynex Runners. Nylon Cord You will need 20' of accessory cord for miscellaneous lashing. Bungee Cord You will three cords, approximately 12\"-18\" each.

TECHNICALTrekking Poles Lightweight and collapsible poles are recommended. Larger basketwork well with deep snow. Ski poles will also work. Trekking Poles on McKinley Trekking poles help balance and stabilize a heavy pack during the approach. They also help take some stress off of the knees during the descent. TREKKING POLES STABILIZING THE LOAD BLACK DIAMOND BLACK DIAMOND BLACK DIAMONDEXPEDITION SKI POLES ALPINE CARBON CORK TRAIL BACK Product VideoAvalanche Transceiver A digital transceiver is preferred; analog will work aswell. If you rent a transceiver, one set of new batteries will be provided. BACKCOUNTRY ACCESS TRACKER D.T.S. WEARING A TRANSCEIVER

HEAts Glacier Glasses You will need two pairs of dark-lensed sunglasses, either with side shields or full wrap around frames. Almost all sunglasses block UV-A, UV-B and infrared rays adequately. Pay attention to the visible light transmission. The darkest lenses (glacier glasses) only allow approx. 6% visible light to get through, while lighter lenses (driving glasses) let in as much as 20+%. A good rule of thumb is that if you can see the wearer’s pupils through the lenses, they are too light for sun protection at altitude.Glacier glasses block 100% of UV VIDEO: Why Glacier Glasses?light, and the lenses let a small with Melissa Arnotfraction of visible light through so thatthe wearer does not have to squint onbright days. They have side shields orlarge, wrap-around frames forincreased coverage, and a closer fitso that reflected light does not leak infrom the sides of the frame. MEN'S WOMEN'S JULBO JULBO JULBO JULBO JULBOBIVOUAK EXPLORER TENSING MONTEROSA WHOOPS Product Video

HEA MEN'SGoggles Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. SMITH KNOWLEDGE OTGWhy areGoggles SMITHImportant? G I/OS oggles (typical ski WOMEN'S goggles) are worn in bad weather and high SMITH winds. They don't TRANSIT need to be dark as they are often worn in low or diffuse light conditions.Warm Hat A warm winter Warm Hat Wool or synthetic. It should providehat of fleece or wool can be worn warmth but also be thin enough to fit underneath aunderneath the climbing helmetto stay warm. Make sure your climbing helmet.hat doesn't have a pompom orextra material at the top so that it MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR SMARTWOOLfits comfortably underneath the AIRSHIELD MICRO DOME NTS MID 250 BEANIEhelmet.Buff or Neck Gaiter Buff/Neck Gaiter One item for face protection is required. Our primary recommendation is the Buff. A neckA Buff or light neck gaiter is used gaiter or balaclava is also acceptable.to protect the face from wind and BUFF SMARTWOOL SMARTWOOLcold on the upper mountain. ORIGINAL UV BUFF BALACLAVA NTS MID 250 GAITERThey are also useful for sunprotection throughout the climb.Most guides end up wearing

HANDThe 3-part Glove System Each glove layer is worn separately as conditionschange during the climb.Light Weight Gloves Light Weight GlovesA light pair of gloves are worn for muchof the climb. They can be fleece, soft- MARMOT BLACK DIAMOND OUTDOOR RESEARCHshell, or a wind block/wind-stopper type WINDSTOPPER ARC VERTmaterial. Most of these will have aleather or synthetic palm for bettergripping. Light gloves provide a bit ofinsulation and protection when holdingthe ice axe.Medium Weight Gloves Medium Weight Gloves Your medium weight glove is a typical MEN'S WOMEN'Sski glove, insulated but with dexterity.They are worn for most of the FIRST ASCENT MARMOT OUTDOOR RESEARCHexpedition. Guides generally prefer GUIDE GLOVE RANDONNEE LUMINARYgloves with leather palms as they aremore durable, wind proof, and providea better grip.Heavy Weight Gloves orMitts The heavy weight glove or Product Videomitt is worn high on the mountain in Heavy Weight Gloves or Mittscold or stormy conditions. These alsoact as insurance if you lose a glove.Some guides bring both heavy weightgloves and mitts. MEN'S WOMEN'S BLACK DIAMOND BLACK DIAMOND BLACK DIAMOND GUIDE GLOVE MERCURY MITT MERCURY MITT

FEETMountaineering Boots An expedition-style double boot, with high altitudeexpedition-style inner boot is mandatory. Price is the best indicator. Though expensive, thefunction of footwear is of crucial importance. Select a brand's \"top of the line\" model and itshould be sufficient for Denali. The boot needs to be roomy enough to allow for goodcirculation. Anticipate a sock combination when sizing them (single sock, liner and sock, ortwo heavy socks on each foot). The idea is to adequately fill the volume of the boot, and toinsulate. Wear the boots as often as possible before the climb, to determine proper fit,comfort and performance. Intuition liners may be considered if you're looking to upgradeplastic boots for additional warmth, comfort and performance.The two most important factors when purhcasing a boot are 1) it's intended use (where will you be climbing) and 2) ensuring a proper fit.VIDEO: Choosing the Right Boot VIDEO: Mountaineering Boot Fitwith Peter Whittaker and Melissa with Peter Whittaker andArnot Melissa ArnotLA SPORTIVA LA SPORTIVA KOFLACH LA SPORTIVA SPANTIK BARUNTSE ARCTIS EXPE OLYMPUS MONS EVO Product Video Product Video

FEET Overboots Expedition overboots add significant warmth, especially at high altitude. All-e in-one mountaineering boots do not need the added insulation of overboots. FORTY BELOW FORTY BELOW Pr Product VideoOVERBOOTS WITH CRAMPONSBooties Goose down or synthetic fill. Booties can be worn FORTY BELOW Cinside of the overboots while walking around camp, whichallows an opportunity to dry out inner boots.

FEETGaiters We recommend a knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over yourmountaineering boots. This will guard against snow getting into your boots and catching yourcrampon spikes on loose clothing . OUTDOOR RESEARCH E Product Video OUTDOOR RESEARCH VGAITERS INACTIONSocks Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearinduring your training or previous adventures (whether single medium-weight socks, a mediumweight with a liner sock, two medium-weight socks together, etc) should work just fine for thisclimb. Advice on Socks A good strategy for socks is to change pairs as soon as you are done climbing for the day, letting the pair your wore all day air dry. Continue this rotation for each day you are on the mountain and you will always have a pair of dry, warm socks to change into. Guide tip: stick your damp socks in your sleeping bag and let your body heat dry them out overnight. Caution: don't do this with soaking wet socks.SMARTWOOL SMARTWOOL SMARTWOOLPHD OUTDOOR HIKING LINER CREW PHD OUTDOOR LIGHT CREW HEAVY CREW

UPPER BODY Upper Body Layering We recommend 6 upper body layers, all of which can be r used in conjunction with each other. Three of these should be insulating layers, one light, on medium and one heavy, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering system to choose from, including fleece, soft-shell, down and synthetic options. The following pages discuss each layer in more detail. The Logic behind Upper Body Layering The image below demonstrates the upper body layering system - how each piece works together as part of a larger system.ngm- s

UPPER BODYBaselayer (Layer 1) Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top. Quarter zip styles will allow forbetter temperature regulation. We recommend light colors, which best reflect the intense sunon hot days.What Works This is the first layer of your system. Long sleeves are mandatory toprotect your skin against abrasions should you slip or need to self arrest. This should be aquick drying, fast wicking, non-cotton, and comfortable top.VIDEO: Baselayers explained with VIDEO: Baselayers as outerwearMelissa Arnot and Peter WhittakerMEN'S WOMEN'S PATAGONIA SMARTWOOL PATAGONIATROPIC COMFORT NTS LIGHT 195 ZIP CAPILENE® 3 MIDWEIGHT SMARTWOOL ZIP NECK NTS LIGHT 195 ZIP PATAGONIA PATAGONIACAPILENE® 3 MIDWEIGHT SUNSHADE HOODY ZIP NECK

UPPER BODY Light Insulation (Layer 2) Light weight with or without hood. Lightweight enough ton work out in and with just enough material to combat the cold. What is Light Insulation? This layer adds a bit of warmth to your system, while maintaining breathability during heavy exertion. MEN'S WOMEN'SMOUNTAIN HARDWEAR PATAGONIA PATAGONIA FIRST ASCENT M R1 HOODY R1 HOODY HANGFIRE® PROMedium Insulation (Layer 3) Preferably with a bit of wind and water resistance.Can be worn over the lightweight layer. What is Medium Insulation? This heavier insulating layer adds increased warmth, and a bit of wind or weather protection. There are many suitable materials and styles including soft shell jackets, fleeces, and down or synthetic sweaters. MEN'S WOMEN'SARC'TERYX MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR ARC'TERYX MOUNTAIN HARDWEARGAMMA LT HOODY S GAMMA LT HOODY S

UPPER BODYHeavy Insulation (Layer 4) A hooded down or synthetic jacket.Go-To Layer This layering piece becomes the go-to for most guides on Denali. It spans the gap between a typical insulating layer and a down parka. As a result, they are worn more often than not around camp and climbing on cold mornings before the sun hits. Additionally, it is a great supplemental insulation piece to wear in combination with your other layers. MEN'S WOMEN'SARC'TERYX FIRST ASCENT ARC'TERYX FIRST ASCENTATOM LT HOODY DOWNLIGHT® JACKET ATOM LT HOODY DOWNLIGHT® JACKETHard Shell (Layer 5) A jacket made of rain-proof material with an attached hood. Werecommend a non-insulated jacket for this layer.What to Look for in a VIDEO: The logic behind Hard Shells with Peter Whittaker and Melissa ArnotHard Shell The hard shelljacket should be made of a waterproof, nylon material (such as Gore-Tex®). A thinner and lighter weightjacket is ample, and ideal for theclimb. It should have an attachedhood for protection from theelements. MEN'S WOMEN'SPATAGONIA ARC'TERYX ARC'TERYX PATAGONIA LEASHLESSLEASHLESS ALPHA SL ALPHA SL JACKET

UPPER BODYParka (Layer 6) This expedition-style heavy parka should extend below the waist andmust have an insulated hood. We recommend down rather than synthetic fill as down weighsless. The parka does not have to be waterproof, though that is a nice feature.Why a Parka? Look for the thickest down parka you can find and make sure that you can wear it over most of your other layers. You'll end up wearing your parka in camp and at meals when the temperatures drop. Getting it big allows you to move around comfortably. PARKAS AT BREAK ON SUMMIT DAY MEN'S WOMEN'SMOUNTAIN HARDWEARFEATHERED FRIENDS PATAGONIA FITZ ROYNILAS ICEFALL

LOWER BODYLower Body Layering We recommend a system of 4 layers, all of which can beused in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into onegarment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of alayering system.Temperatures on Denali It can be boiling hot in the tent during afternoons lower on the mountain and bone-chilling on summit day. As a result, you want your lower layers to be versatile. In general, shoot for mid-weight long underwear, climbing pants, and insulated pants. A thick pair of climbing pants can make things uncomfortable on hot days hiking between camps. And of course, make sure that you can move comfortably while wearing all of the layers together.Underwear (Layer 1) One to three pairs of non-cotton briefs or boxers. Women shouldhave at least one non-cotton sports bra.MEN'S WOMEN'SPATAGONIA PATAGONIA SMARTWOOL PATAGONIA SMARTWOOL PHD SEAMLESSLIGHTWEIGHT MERINO BOXER BRIEFS PHD SEAMLESS ACTIVE MESH BRA STRAPPY BRABOXER BRIEFS BOY SHORTSBaselayer (Layer 2) A light to medium weight pair of baselayer bottoms provides addedinsulation when worn with climbing pants. It is difficult to remove baselayer bottoms mid-climb, so err on the lighter side if you can't decide between two pairs. MEN'S WOMEN'SPATAGONIA SMARTWOOL PATAGONIA SMARTWOOLCAPILENE® 3 MIDWEIGHT NTS LIGHT 195 CAPILENE® 3 MIDWEIGHT NTS LIGHT 195

LOWER BODYClimbing Pants (Layer 3) Soft-shell climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility.You can wear them in combination with the base layer on colder days or alone on warmerdays.Why Soft Shell Pants? The soft shell material breathes well and allows the sweat and heat generated during the climb to dissipate, while still offering some resistance to light wind and precipitation. These climbing pants are our main workhorse layer, often worn alone on the approach and with a baselayer on the upper mountain for added warmth. Depending on the model, soft shells come in varying thicknesses. If you are climbing when temperatures are generally higher, or you tend to run warm, aim for a lighter weight version. If you are climbing in the early season or find yourself always being the person wearing an extra layer, bring a pair made from a thicker material. MEN'S WOMEN'S PATAGONIA ARC'TERYX FIRST ASCENT PATAGONIADUAL POINT ALPINE GAMMA AR MOUNTAIN GUIDE LITE DUAL POINT ALPINE Product VideoInsulated Pants These pants are Hard Shell Pants (Layer 4) Aprimarily worn around camp in the evenings or waterproof pant with 3/4 side zippersearly in the morning when the temperatures are (sometimes called 7/8 or full side zips) arefrigid. They are pulled off when you start required for facilitating quick clothingclimbing. It’s not uncommon for climbers to adjustments over boots and crampons.wear these insulated pants along with their MEN'S WOMEN'Sother layers on summit day. A thinner insulating ARC'TERYX FIRST ASCENT pant does the trick when used in combination ALPHA SL RAINIER STORM SHELLd with your other layers.MEN'S WOMEN'SMOUNTAIN HARDWEAR FIRST ASCENT C IGNITER PANTS FIRST ASCENT ARC'TERYX RAINIER STORM ALPHA SL

ACCESSORIESMiscellaneous Items - Lip Balm - SPF 15 or higher. Alba un-Petroleum - Sunscreen - We recommend small tubes of SPF 15 or higher, which can be carried in poc for easy access and to prevent freezing. Doc Martin's Sunscreen - Chemical Hand Warmers - Garbage Bags - 5-6 used for lining your backpack or sleeping bag stuff sack - Ear Plugs - Nice to have in order to block out some of the noise. - Alkaline Batteries - For your avalanche transceiver - Camera - Should be small enough to fit in a chest pocketUtensils - Bowl - Either the GSI Infinity Bowl or the Sea to Summit X Bowl - Insulated Mug - Either the GSI Fairshare Mug or the Whittaker Mountaineering 12 oz. mug - Spoon of Spork - Two of either the MSR Folding Spork or the Light My Fire Spork - Pocket Knife - Petzl Spatha KnifeWater Bottle We recommend 2-3 Wide Mouth Nalgene Bottles. Hydration Tips Plan on bringing hard sided large mouth water bottles on the climb. These are much easier to fill, less likely to leak, don't freeze as easily when used with insulators, and can be thawed more easily. Hydration systems won't hold up for the extended expedition and will undoubtedly freeze.Insulated Water Bottle Covers These help prevent freezing. They shouldcompletely cover the bottle. Outdoor Research Water Bottle ParkaToilet Articles Personal Medications- Toothbrush and toothpaste - Antibiotics: Broad spectrum antibiotics- Baby Wipes - travel pack size of Wet Ones for Traveler's Diarrhea- Hand Sanitizer - Purell Hand Sanitzer - Tylenol #3- Toilet Paper - 2 rolls of Peregrine Outfitters - Acetazolamide: For altitude sicknessPersonal Toilet Tissue - Dexamethazone: For HACE- Pee Bottle - 1 to 1.5 quart size.Personal First Aid Kit Optional Items - Band-aids - Neoprene Face Mask - Seirus Original - Asprin, Ibuprofen, Tylenol MaskTM - Blister treatment - Antacids - Sleeping Mask - Imodium (anti-diarrhea) - Reading Material/Journal - Pepto Bismol (stomach relief) - MP3 Player - Small roll of adhesive tape - Thermos - 1/2 liter capacity - Mosquito repellent - For Talkeetna

RENTALS AND MEAL Rentals Our rental fleet philosophy the world's best gear, and so should you. We carry th largest rental fleet of mountaineering gear in the country and we maintain it to the highestckestsandards. If our guides don't use it, we don't carry it. McKinley - West Buttress Rentals. Meals Nutrition is a huge part of a successful adventure. On the expedition you will need lunch snacks for 22 days. Lunch items should weigh about 20 lbs. Breakfasts and dinners are provided by RMI while on the mountain. We hope this gear guide has been helpful in your preparations. See you on the Mountain!

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