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Contents 08 18 Always Buzzing, Always Big Trails And Thrills: Chinatown Little India! 02 The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine 1

Kampong Glam GlaThme HTahast n’t LSohstinItse Source: NHB Kampong Glam Trail 3 Brochure Photos: Lynelle De Jesus Street lights of Arab Street 2

Kampong Glam The story of Kampong Glam began in 1819 when Sir Stamford Raffles (1781–1826) established a treaty between the British East India Company, Temenggong Abdul Rahman (d. 1825) and Sultan Hussein (1776–1835) to set up a trading post in Singapore. Did you know that the stretch of Bussorah Street near Masjid Sultan was once known as Kampong Kaji (Pilgrim Village) and the stretch nearer Beach Road was Kampong Tembaga (Copper Village)? Or that Arab Street was called Jawa Koi (Java Street) by the Chinese and Pookadai sadakku (flower street) by the Tamils? Sultan Gate was lined with blacksmiths and Baghdad Street with diamond craftsmen and traders. Where a car park now stands along Kandahar Street, there was the Pondok Java which housed Javanese migrants and was famed for the Javanese theatre and arts performances it used to host. These are just some of the stories behind Kampong Glam’s streets and lanes. Steeped in history, culture and memories, Kampong Glam is one of Singapore’s most colourful districts. It was where the Malay royalty once resided, and where one of the most significant and important mosques in the country, Masjid Sultan, is located. It was where many diverse communities, such as the Javanese, Sumatrans, Baweanese, Banjarese, Arabs, Chinese and Indians once called home. Though Kampong Glam is no longer a residential area today, these communities have left their mark in different ways, from the buildings in the area and long-time businesses to vernacular place names. 3

Kampong Glam MALAY HERITAGE CENTRE 85 Sultan The building housing the centre was once the residence of Malay royalty in Singapore and also referred to as “Istana Kampong Gelam” (Kampong Gelam Palace). It was preceded by at least two istana buildings which were part of a larger walled compound that has been referred to as the kota raja (royal citadel). buildings which were part of a larger walled compound that has been referred to as the kota raja (royal citadel). The first istana in the compound, a large timber palace with attap roofs, was completed in 1819. Sultan Hussein stayed there for some years before moving to Melaka, where he passed away in 1835. His son, Tunku Ali (1825–1877) returned to Singapore in 1840 and commissioned the current building, which combines traditional Malay motifs with the Palladian style – a style derived from the architecture of Italian architect Andrea Palladio (1508-1580) which was popular in England in the 18th and 19th centuries. Exhibition artworks outside the museum 4

Kampong Glam For years, the British refused to acknowledge Tunku Ali as sultan. In 1855, the Governor of the Straits Settlements William Butterworth (1801– 1856) negotiated a treaty between Tunku Ali and Ibrahim (d. 1865), son of the late Temenggong. Ali acquired the title of Sultan and received a fixed allowance from the government, while acknowledging Ibrahim as the ruler of Johor with the exception of Muar. Vinyl collection in the museum “FOR YEARS, THE BRITISH REFUSED TO ACKNOWLEDGE TUNKU ALI AS SULTAN.” When Sultan Ali passed away in 1877, his eldest son, Tungku Alam (d. 1891), was not recognised by the British as Sultan. However, the Malay community organised a ceremony in 1879 proclaiming him as “Sultan Ala’u’din Alam Shah al Mulak (Ruler of) Johore and Muar”. In 1897, the court decided in a dispute between members of the royal family that the Kampong Glam property belonged to the Crown. 5

Kampong Glam An ordinance was then enacted In 1999, the government Shop at Arab Street by the British government in announced plans to develop a Outside the mosque 1904 to provide an incomefor Malay Heritage Centre, which Outside a shophouse Sultan Hussein’s descendants. would involve conserving and The building continued to serve redeveloping Istana Kampong as a residence for the family. Glam and the adjacent Gedung For a period of time during the Kuning. This required the 20th century, it even housed a residents to relocate and a new club, Kota Raja Club, which scheme of payment to the regularly organised leisure beneficiaries was introduced. activities for the community in Restoration works were Kampong Glam. undertaken and the Malay Heritage Centre opened in “THE BUILDING June 2005. Further renovations CONTINUED were carried out between 2011 TO SERVE AS A and 2012 and the redeveloped RESIDENCE FOR centre was launched in THE FAMILY.” September 2012 by the Prime Minister of Singapore, Mr Lee Arts at Bugis Street Hsien Loong. 6

Kampong Glam Outside the building To locals, this road was more commonly referred to as Kampong Java by the Malays or Jawa koi (Java Street) by the Chinese. For a long time, Arab Street was largely populated by the Javanese. They were ARAB STREET engaged in various occupations such as running eating houses Arab Street is one of the few Indonesia, India, China and and food stalls, and selling streets in Kampong Glam that the Middle East since its early goods such as fruit and Javanese has retained its original name days. They started businesses leaf cigarettes. Javanese from the early 1800s. It was ranging from eating houses, women also set up stalls to probably named as such as the rattan shops and goldsmiths to sell flowers along the five foot area was designated for the textile shops, money changers, way, giving rise to the Tamil Arab community in the 1822 bookshops and printing presses. nickname, pookadei sadakku town plan of Singapore. Today, a number of shops on (flower street). Over time, The community here, however, this street, such as H. Hashim however, the Javanese presence has always been diverse. A busy bin H. Abdullah, a bookstore gradually diminished in this commercial area, Arab Street opened in the early 1900s, are area due to factors such as the has been attracting traders and still run by the descendants redevelopment of Kampong entrepreneurs from places such of pioneers who came here Glam, leading to resettlement as present-day decades ago. of the original residents. 7

Chinatown BuAlwzazysing, ChiAnlwaays town Source: URA Chinatown Trail Brochure 2017 Photos: Lynelle De Jesus The Historic District of Chinatown comprises four distinct sub-districts: Telok Ayer, Kreta Ayer, Bukit Pasoh and Tanjong Pagar. Together with the other precincts south of the Singapore River, they made up what was known colloquially as the Greater Town (or Da Po) of Singapore. Because of its architectural, historical and social importance, the area was given conservation status on 7 July 1989. Take a walk and learn why this area is cherished by so many Singaporeans! Lanterns at Chinatown 8

Chinatown The origin of Chinatown is linked to Sir Stamford Raffles. In 1822, he formed a Town Planning Committee to plan Singapore Town according to ethnic groups. The area south of the Singapore River was allocated by sectors to Chinese and Indian immigrants of the same provincial origin and language groups. The Chinese immigrants came mostly from the south-eastern coastal provinces of China. Hokkiens formed the majority, followed by the Teochews, Cantonese, Hainanese, Hakkas and Foochows. The South Indians also found their niche in this area, though subsequently the centre of Indian commercial and cultural life moved to Serangoon Road. Each group has left its mark on street names and places of worship. 9

Chinatown KRETA AYER 1. Former Great 2. Former Majestic Theater Southern Hotel 80 Eu Tong Sen Street The Malay name Kreta Ayer 70 Eu Tong Sen Street This was originally a (or Niu Che Shui) comes This former hotel was designed Cantonese opera house built by from the ox-drawn water by architectural firm Swan philanthropist Eu Tong Sen in carts that used to deliver & Maclaren and was once 1927 for his wife after she was water to the area. In the 19th regarded as the Raffles Hotel of reportedly refused admittance century, this predominantly Chinatown. Popular with high to an opera performance Cantonese area was society including celebrities elsewhere. A highlight of known for round-the-clock from Hong Kong and China, this Art Deco building is its entertainment with a it was once the tallest building decorated façade of concentration of teahouses, in the area and was the first hand-painted tiles depicting opera theatres and brothels. Chinese hotel in Singapore to opera characters and Today it is best boast a lift service. flying dragons. known for its Chinese New Year and Mid-Autumn celebrations, street market and bustling atmosphere. A street sign Bottom View of the building 10

Chinatown 3. Former S.I.T. 4. Jamae (Chulia) Mosque 6. Former Coolie Quarters Government Quarters 218 South Bridge Road 37 Pagoda Street One of the oldest mosques Most coolies came from 42 to 50 Mosque Street, 175 to in Singapore, Jamae Mosque southern China in search 189 New Bridge Road and 38 was completed in 1835 by of better job prospects but to 64 Upper Cross Street the Chulias who hailed from upon arrival were sold off as The predecessor to the Housing southern India’s Coromandel indentured labourers. Those and Development Board was Coast. It boasts an eclectic mix who were not immediately the Singapore Improvement of Chinese, Anglo-Indian and auctioned off were kept in Trust (SIT), set up in 1927 Malay architecture, of which cramped and sordid quarters. by the colonial government the most significant feature This shophouse is believed to solve Singapore’s chronic is its South Indian style front to be the former premises of housing problems. These entrance comprising of two Kwong Hup Yuen, one of the four-storey reinforced concrete minarets flanking most infamous coolie firms. buildings were built in the a miniature palace façade. 1930s to house Customs It was gazetted in 1974 as a workers. Take a close look at National Monument. the timber parapet behind each window; on each are two heart-shaped cut outs. 5. Sri Mariamman Temple 7. Former Lai Chun Yuen 242 South Bridge Road 25 Trengganu Street Established in 1827, this is Built in 1887, this three- Singapore’s oldest Hindu storey former theatre building temple. It was founded by with unique cantilevering Narayana Pillay, the Tamil wooden balconies was the pioneer who accompanied centre of entertainment in Raffles to Singapore. The Kreta Ayer until it was badly temple is dedicated to the damaged during World War goddess Mariamman and the II. Its popularity was such original statue of the deity that surrounding streets were installed by Pillay still stands colloquially named after the in its principal shrine. This theatre itself; Smith Street was temple gave name to Temple Theater Street, Temple Street Street and Pagoda Street, and was Theater Rear Street, and was gazetted as a National Trengganu Street was Theater Monument in 1973. Side Street. “TODAY IT IS BEST KNOWN FOR ITS CHINESE NEW YEAR AND MID-AUTUMN CELEBRATIONS, STREET MARKET AND BUSTLING ATMOSPHERE. ” 11

Chinatown TELOK AYER Telok Ayer, Malay for 9. Clan and 11. Nagore Dargah Indian Water Bay, is the oldest Trade Associations Muslim Heritage Centre sub-district. It started to Ann Siang Road and 140 Telok Ayer Street develop in the 1820s and Club Street Originally known as Shahul remained as the key Chinese Clan and trade associations Hamid Durgha and dedicated commercial district until were important institutions for to the memory of a holy man, the late 19th century. The mutual assistance in 19th and Shahul Hamid of Nagore, population in this area was early 20th century Singapore the former shrine was built by predominantly Hokkien. as they helped new immigrants Chulias from southern India The area is often associated from China settle down and between 1828 and 1830. On with the laid-back looked after their welfare. the upper part of the façade atmosphere of Ann Siang Along Ann Siang Road and are niches, where oil lamps Hill, and the religious Club Street are numerous clan can be placed within them buildings along Telok and trade associations where to illuminate the building on Ayer Street. stepping into one, time seems festive days. It was gazetted as a to stand still. Some still retain National Monument in 1974. 8. Eu Yan Sang their meeting halls filled with portraits of members from the 12. Thian Hock Keng 267 to 271 South Bridge Road past and centuryold furniture. 158 Telok Ayer Street Built in 1910, this is the first Eu Some of these associations can This is one of Singapore’s Yan Sang outlet in Singapore be found at 17 (Ching Yoon oldest and most important set up by Eu Tong Sen. Wooi Kwoon) and 25 Ann temple for immigrants from Besides dealing in the retail of Siang Road (Kwong Wai Siew southern China’s Fujian traditional Chinese medicine, Li Si She Shut), and 84 Club province. Completed in 1842 it used to offer money Street (Nam Sun Wui Kun). and standing on what used to remittance services to China. be the shoreline, it is dedicated The building was designed by 10. Siang Cho Keong to the worship of Ma Zu Po, Alfred Bidwell from the firm 66 Amoy Street the Goddess of the Sea. While Swan & Maclaren. He was also This temple was completed in most of the building materials responsible for the design of the 1869 and built in the Hokkien came from China, the temple Raffles Hotel and style, where the ends of the incorporates cast-iron railings Victoria Memorial Hall. curved roof ridge sweeps from Scotland and tiles from outwards like swallow tails England and Holland. In 1973, and the clay roof tiles are not it was gazetted as a National glazed. Its foundation plaque Monument. Its restoration records that it was located on in 2001 gained an honorable this site because of its good mention from UNESCO. feng shui (geomancy) properties as it used to front the sea and behind it stands Ann Siang Hill. “THE POPULATION IN THIS AREA WAS PREDOMINANTLY HOKKIEN.” 12

Chinatown Residents at the temple Bottom View of the building 13. Al-Abrar Mosque 192 Telok Ayer Street Also known as Kuchu Palli, Tamil for Mosque Hut, it was originally a thatched hut believed to have been erected not long after 1827. The present building was built between 1850 and 1855 and declared a National Monument in 1974. Unlike the Jamae Mosque along South Bridge Road, this mosque is able to conform to the street grid while facing Mecca. 14. Telok Ayer Chinese Methodist Church 235 Telok Ayer Street Designed by Swan & Maclaren and built by a French firm, Bross & Mogin in 1924, this was the first Chinese Methodist Church in Singapore. It features upturned roof eaves; a reference to traditional Chinese architecture and the community that it serves. In 1989, the church was gazetted as a National Monument. 13

Chinatown BUKIT PASOH Bukit Pasoh was developed 16. Sri Layan Sithi 17. Kong Chow Wui Koon at the turn of the 20th Vinayagar Temple 321 New Bridge Road century as an extension 73 Keong Saik Road This Cantonese clan association of the already densely This Hindu temple was built in was established in 1839 at populated Telok Ayer and 1925 by Nattukkottai Chettiars, Upper Chin Chew Street Kreta Ayer areas. Its name a noted money lending and moved in 1924 to the means Pot Hill in Malay, community from Tamil Nadu present building, designed by referring to its origins as a and dedicated to Ganesha, the Westerhout & Oman. During place where earthen pots elephantheaded god. It is an the Japanese Occupation, the were made. Its charm lies important stop for the annual custodians volunteered the in its gently sloping and Silver Chariot Procession where building as a clinic and hence curving streets fronted by the deity Murugan is taken its antique interiors remained shophouses that house a on a procession from the Sri intact. The association is well mixture of institutional and Thendayuthapani Temple in known for its lion dance troupe commercial activities. Tank Road. The temple was and martial arts. This is one of given the name Layan Sithi as Chinatown’s first community 15. Poon Yue Association it was originally located at the museums and entry is free. old Sepoy Lines where Indian 281 New Bridge Road soldiers, known as Sepoys, used The association was founded to be housed. in 1879 at Upper Cross Street with financial assistance “ITS NAME MEANS POT HILL from Hoo Ah Kay, a well IN MALAY, REFERRING TO ITS known community leader ORIGINS AS A PLACE WHERE from Whampoa district in EARTHEN POTS ARE MADE.” Guangdong province. The association relocated to New Bridge Road in 1917. The building is a hybrid of Neo-Classical and Art Deco styles which were popular with Chinese developers in the past who wanted to project a modern image. To the Chinese, New Bridge Road was colloquially referred to as Da Po Er Ma Lu, Mandarin for Greater Town’s Second Road. The first road referred to in this instance was South Bridge Road. 14

Chinatown Outside the temple 18. Cundhi Gong During World War II, it was 13 Keong Saik Road the headquarters of the anti- This was founded in 1928 for Japanese China Salvation the worship of the 18-arm Movement in Southeast Asia. Cundhi Bodhisattva. It is a The ground floor Pioneers’ purpose-built temple built in Gallery is open for visit and the Nanyang style which is a entry is free. hybrid between Chinese and shophouse architecture. On the 20. Chin Kang Huay Kuan roof ridge, cut porcelain pieces 29 Bukit Pasoh Road are used to form dragons, This association was established phoenixes, birds and flowers. in 1918 by immigrants from The timber trusses over the Jinjiang County in southern five-foot way feature traditional Fujian, China. The current paintings and its exterior building contrasts with its walls are adorned with ornately decorated neighbours. hand-painted tiles. The use of straight lines, concrete ledges and mild steel 19. Ee Hoe Hean Club framed windows is typical of 43 Bukit Pasoh Road the Modern style that was The club was founded in popular from the 1950s to the 1895 by a group of Hokkien early 1970s. During World War community leaders for the II, the building was used by wealthy Chinese elite. More the Overseas Chinese General than a social and business Mobilisation Council which club, its members were actively helped the British in supplying involved in the political labourers and volunteers for the development of China in defence of Singapore. the early 20th century. It supported the 1911 Xinhai Revolution which overthrew the Qing Dynasty, leading to the establishment of the Republic of China. Satues 15

Chinatown TANGJONG PAGAR 21. Jinrikisha Station 1 Neil Road The building was built in 1903 by the Municipal Council as the administration centre for rickshaws, a form of transportation imported from Japan via Shanghai in the 1880s. It is of the Edwardian style, where the exposed brickwork is contrasted with white plaster mouldings. Look out for the crest of the Municipal Council at the front of the building, featuring a lion standing on an island with a palm tree. 22. Former Jing Hwa Cinema 1 Tanjong Pagar Road Together with the Majestic and the Oriental, Jing Hwa Cinema, built in 1958, was one of Chinatown’s three famous cinemas. It was designed by local architect Wong Foo Nam in the Modern style and was the first to have a basement carpark and extensive floor-to-ceiling windows. It is remembered fondly by many as the venue of romantic first dates and holiday treats. 16

Chinatown “IT IS REMEMBERED FONDLY BY MANY AS THE VENUE OF ROMANTIC FIRST DATES AND HOLIDAY TREATS.” Products at Chinatown 17

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Little India Big Trails AndThrills : Little India! The distinctive Little India precinct melds the old with the new, hosting trades from the past beside modern businesses, old conserved shophouses next to high rise buildings. In this precinct, you can find flower garland vendors next to restaurants serving both traditional and fusion meals, small traditional businesses alongside multi-storey departmental stores. And these are just some ways in which the precinct retains aspects of its history within today’s modern context. It is interesting to note that Little India was never designated by Sir Stamford Raffles as an area for the Indian community. This is unlike Chinatown or Kampong Gelam, which were designated for the Chinese and the Malays respectively in the Raf- fles Town Plan of 1823. Before Little India got its current name in the 1970s-80s, it was just known as Serangoon, after one of the earliest roads in Singapore and indicated as the “road leading across the island” on an 1828 map. Through the Little India Heritage Trail, discover how this once swampy, rural area transformed itself into the colourful and culturally diverse precinct of today. This self-guided trail consists of a Trail Booklet, a Trail Map and onsite Trail Markers. The Trail Booklet provides a history of the area, as well as information about the places of heritage, social and cultural interest. The accompanying Trail Map offers three thematic sub-trails with translations in Mandarin, Malay and Tamil while the Trail Markers showcase old photographs of the site along with further information. We hope you enjoy your journey! 19

Little India TRAIL 1: SERANGOON IN THE 1900s 40 Minutes The early 20th century was a Begin your journey at the Walking along this road, you defining period that shaped Indian Heritage Centre will come across the colourful today’s Little India as migrants and obtain an overview of Former House of Tan Teng from India, China and the history of the Indian Niah. The only remaining Britain settled in the area and community in Singapore. Chinese villa in Little India, established a diversity of trades Then walk down Serangoon this is a legacy of the time and institutions. Follow this trail Road and cross over to Kerbau when small Chinese cottage and explore the rich history of Road, whose name refers to the industries thrived alongside the the Little India precinct. buffaloes that were kept here in Indian-dominated cattle trade the 1900s. in this area. Turn around and walk towards Belilios Lane where you will spot the large mural Traditional Trades of Little India by Psyfool. Continue towards Belilios Road and turn right to the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple which was built as a shrine by Tamil workers from the lime pits in this area. From here, turn left onto Serangoon Road and left again onto Race Course Lane. 20

At Race Course Lane, you Along Hampshire Road Little India will encounter a number of beside the field, you will see Chinese Clan Associations the Former Kandang Kerbau 21 which were established to Hospital (now the Land provide social and economic Transport Authority building) support for Chinese immigrants which served as general from the same clans. Turn hospital in the 1900s. In the left onto Race Course Road background, you can also spot and you will come across the the distinctive shape of the new Foochow Methodist Church at KK Women’s and Children’s the corner of Rotan Lane. The Hospital building. church was If you are hungry or wish to established in 1897 as a rest your feet, walk straight Christian mission for working down to Tekka Centre, which class immigrants from Foochow, is the new incarnation of China, such as rickshaw pullers the Tekka Market that was and coolies. once located across the road Continuing along Race Course and considered the “people’s Road, keep a lookout on the market”. Here you can enjoy left for a small unnamed street local hawker fare, or purchase where you will encounter the fresh meat to cook at home. origins of this road name in Then it’s a short walk to Little the form of a mural entitled A India MRT station for a Ride Through Race Course ride home. Road by Jaxton Su. The Former Racecourse was at the location of the current Farrer Park Field just opposite. “FOLLOW THIS TRAIL AND EXPLORE THE RICH HISTORY OF THE LITTLE INDIA PRECINT”

Little India TRAIL 2: WALK OF FAITHS Walk up Veerasamy Road and Then venture up Rotan Lane across Serangoon Road to the to view the Foochow Methodist 1 Hour Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple Church which developed from The Little India precinct which was originally built as a mission started in 1897 for contains a great number and a shrine by Tamil workers working class immigrants from diversity of religious spaces. from the lime pits in this Foochow, China. After this, These institutions span across area. Another Hindu temple walk back down to Serangoon all the major ethnic and and the only North Indian Road and head towards the religious groups in Singapore. temple in Singapore, the Shree Angullia Mosque to take a look This trail provides insights Lakshminarayan Temple is at its conserved 19th century into different religious spaces, located down the next street at entrance gatehouse. architecture and practices Chander Road. found in Singapore. (Note: Most of these institutions are open to the public but be sure to follow any instructions on appropriate behaviour and clothing.) Start off at the beautiful Abdul Gafoor Mosque at Dunlop Street which is one of Singapore’s oldest mosques and a National Monument. You may wish to enter the mosque for a visit and if so, do remember to dress respectfully and take off your shoes. From here, head down Perak Road to the Anglican Church of the True Light which catered mainly to Chinese trishaw riders during its beginnings. At the end of Perak Road, turn left onto Upper Weld Road and then right to Kampong Kapor Road. Here you will see the architecturally different Kampong Kapor Methodist Church which started around the same time but catered to the Straits Chinese or Peranakans. 22

Little India Along the same road, you will (pyramid-shape tower over Buddha statue while the Leong encounter yet another National the main shrine) adorned with San See Temple, meaning Monument, the Sri Srinivasa Hindu deities. “Dragon Mountain Temple”, Perumal Temple, with its Next head up Beatty Road on is dedicated to Guan Yin, the intricately carved gopuram to Race Course Road to view Goddess of Mercy. (entrance tower) depicting a two Buddhist temples built in story from Hindu mythology. a completely different style. Further down the road is the The Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman Temple, popularly known as Temple with its stepped vimana the “Temple of a Thousand (pyramid-shape tower over Lights”, houses a monumental the main shrine) adorned with 15-metre tall Hindu deities. 23

Little India TRAIL 2: WALK OF FAITHS 1 Hour Little India is home to many After your break, walk down traditional businesses that offer the five-foot way (or covered experiences that cannot be pedestrian walkway) along found elsewhere in Singapore. Serangoon Road and enjoy This trail offers a chance to try a variety of traditional authentic Indian food, purchase and modern shops selling traditional clothing and hunt everything from clothes to for bargains at various shops in knick-knacks. Feel free to stop this area. and pick up a bargain or just Start along Campbell Lane and window-shop along this stretch. experience the kaleidoscope of Ahead you will see the sights, sounds and smells along expansive Mustafa Centre, this street. You can visit the Singapore’s first 24-hour Little India Arcade and enjoy department store which offers some Indian sweets or have a everything from diamonds, henna design drawn on your watches, electronics, clothing, hands. Or you can head to confectionery and fresh foods. the Jothi Store & Flower Shop Shop to your heart’s content where locals shop for everyday here, and when you start to feel Indian goods ranging from tired, head across the road to incense sticks to copper utensils. Ananda Bhavan, Singapore’s One street down at Dunlop oldest Indian vegetarian Street is Haniffa Textiles which restaurant, for a snack or meal. is famous for its saris and Indian clothing, and further down Serangoon Road is where you will find Komala Vilas, an Indian vegetarian fast-food restaurant established in 1947. Try their refreshing lassi or have a meal here if you’re hungry! 23

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Lynelle De Jesus P2008394 DC02