Dressmaking : The Complete Step-by-Step Guide to Making your Own Clothes ( PDFDrive )

Facings 99 Understitching 8 On the underarm 9 Press the stitched and shoulder seams, edge. On the right secure the facing to the side the armhole will have seam allowance with a neat finish. cross stitches. BIAS-BOUND NECK EDGE Binding is another way to finish a raw neck edge, especially on bulkier fabrics. In this method the bias strip is cut from the same fabric as the garment. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** 1Cut a bias strip 23⁄4in (7cm) wide 2 Pin to the neck edge. 3 Machine along the neck 4 Trim off half the 5 Clip the seam (see p.96). edge using a 5⁄8in (1.5cm) seam allowance allowance on seam allowance. on the garment side. the bias strip. 6 Fold the raw edge of the 7 Fold the bias strip again to 8 Stitch permanently in position bias strip to the wrong side, the same machine stitches using a flat fell stitch. to touch the line of machining. and pin.

100 General techniques A WAIST WITH A FACING Many waistlines on skirts and pants are finished with a facing, which will follow the contours of the waist but will have had the dart shaping removed to make the facing smooth. A faced LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** waistline always fits comfortably to the body. The facing is attached after all the main sections of the skirt or pants have been constructed. Wrong side 1Apply a fusible interfacing to the facing. Neaten the lower edge of the facing with bias binding. 2 Pin the interfaced facing to the waist edge, matching notches. Right side 3 Stitch the facing in place using a 5⁄8in (1.5cm) seam allowance. 4 Layer the seam allowance by trimming the facing down to half its width. 5 Clip the seam allowance using straight cuts at 90 degrees to the stitching line. 6 Press seam allowance toward the facing. 7 Understitch by machining the seam allowance to the facing about 1⁄8in (3mm) from the first stitching line. 8 Turn the facing to the inside of the garment and press the waist edge. 9 Clip to reduce the bulk at the top of the dart. 10 The right side of the waistline.

Collars 101 Collars All collars consist of a minimum of two pieces, the upper collar (which will be on the outside) and the under collar. Interfacing, which is required to give the collar shape and structure, is often applied to the upper collar to give a smoother appearance to the fabric. TWO-PIECE SHIRT COLLAR A traditional-style shirt has a collar that consists of two pieces: a collar and a stand, both of which require interfacing. The stand fits close around the neck and the collar is attached to LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY *** the stand. This type of collar is found on men’s and ladies’ shirts. On a man’s shirt, the stand accommodates the tie. 1Cut the upper 2 Machine the upper and under collar and under collar. together, right side to right side, stitching Apply interfacing to around the sides and the outside edge. Stitch the upper collar. a sharp point by pivoting at the corners. 3 Trim the seam allowance 4 Remove surplus 5 Press the seam open, pressing the 6 The fabric at the point from the under collar. fabric at the point. upper collar seam allowance on to should not be bulky. the collar. Clip as required. If it is, remove more. Collar fits between the tailor’s bastes 7 Turn the collar 8 Top-stitch the sides 9 Apply interfacing to 10 Place the non-interfaced side 11Machine the collar to the right side and outside edge one side of the stand. of the collar to the interfaced to the stand. and press. using the edge of the side of the stand. Match the notches, machine foot as a guide. then pin in place.

102 General techniques 13 Pin the non-interfaced side of the stand 14 Baste the collar stand to the shirt neck, so that there is a collar to the shirt neck. 12 Place the stand to the shirt neck, matching the notches. stand on the right and wrong side of the shirt. The seam allowance on the stand will extend at the center front. Pin and baste the stand to the shirt neck. 15 Reposition the stand so 16 Machine along the shirt that the front edges come neck and around the together right side to right side. center front curve to the collar. 19 Turn and 2 0 Bring the raw edge of 2 1Secure this press. the stand to the collar edge with and turn under. Pin in place. a flat fell stitch. 2 2 Top-stitch the stand, if required. The stand fits snugly under the collar at the center front. 17 Trim away the non-interfaced 18 Remove surplus fabric side of the stand. from the corner.

Waistbands 103 Waistbands A waistband is designed to fit snugly but not tightly to the waist. Whether it is shaped, straight, or slightly curved, it will be constructed and attached in a similar way. Every waistband will require a fusible interfacing to give it structure and support. FINISHING THE EDGE OF One long edge of the waistband will be stitched to the garment waist. The other THE WAISTBAND edge will need to be finished, to prevent fraying and reduce bulk inside. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY * OVERLOCK STITCHING BIAS BINDING TURNING UNDER This method is suitable for fine fabrics only. Turn This method is suitable for heavier fabrics, since it This method is ideal for fabrics that fray badly under 5⁄8in (1.5cm) along the edge of the waistband lies flat inside the garment after construction. and can add a feature inside the garment. It lies and press in place. After the waistband has been Neaten one long edge of the waistband with flat inside the garment after construction. Apply attached to the garment, hand stitch the pressed- a 3-thread overlock stitch. a 3⁄4in (2cm) bias binding to one long edge of under edge in place. the waistband. ATTACHING A STRAIGHT Special waistband interfacings are available, usually featuring slot lines that will guide you WAISTBAND where to fold the fabric. Make sure the slots on the outer edge correspond to a 5/8in (1.5cm) seam allowance. If a specialized waistband fusible interfacing is not available you can use any LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** medium-weight fusible interfacing. Wrong side of waistband Waistband extension to be finished Right side of fabric Neatened lower edge 1Cut the waistband and apply the interfacing. 2 Pin the waistband to the skirt waist 3 Stitch the waistband to the waist edge using 4 Press the waistband Neaten one long edge. edge, right side to right side. Match a 5/8in (1.5cm) seam allowance. The waistband away from the skirt. the notches. will extend beyond the zipper by 5/8in (1.5cm) on the left and by 2in (5cm) on the right.

104 General techniques 5 Fold the waistband along the crease in the 6 Pin and stitch the left- 7 On the right-hand back, as worn, extend the waist/skirt stitching interfacing, right side to right side. The neatened hand back of the line along the waistband and pivot to stitch across the end. edge of the waistband should extend 5/8in (1.5cm) waistband, as worn, in below the stitching line. line with the center back. 8 Turn the ends of the 9 10Add your To complete the waistband, stitch through 11The finished waistband to the right chosen fasteners. the band to the skirt seam. This is known as straight waistband. side. The extension on the waistband should be stitching in the ditch. on the right-hand back.

Sleeves 105 Sleeves Sleeves come in all shapes and lengths and form an important part of the design of a garment. A set-in sleeve should always hang from the end of the wearer’s shoulder, without wrinkles. The lower end of the sleeve is normally finished by means of a cuff or a facing. INSERTING A SET-IN A set-in sleeve should feature a smooth sleeve head that fits on the end of your shoulder SLEEVE accurately. This is achieved by the use of ease stitches, which are long stitches used to tighten the fabric but not gather it. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY *** 1Machine the side seams and Single notch denotes Double notch 2 Machine the sleeve seam the shoulder seams on the front of the sleeve denotes back and press open. Turn the garment and press them open. of the sleeve sleeve to the right side. Armhole with 3 Around the sleeve head, notches machine two rows of long stitches between the notches— 4 Place the sleeve into the one row at 3⁄8in (1cm) from the armhole, right side to right edge and the second row side. Match the underarm seams at 1⁄2in (1.2cm). These are the and the notches. ease stitches. 5 Match the highest point of 8 Machine the sleeve the sleeve to the shoulder. in place, starting at the underarm seam and using a 5⁄8in (1.5cm) seam allowance. When you machine, have the sleeve on top and keep the machining straight over the shoulder. 6 Pull up the ease stitches 9 Overlap the machining at until the sleeve fits neatly the underarm to reinforce in the armhole. the stitching. 7 Pin from the sleeve side. 10 Stitch around the Smooth 12 Neaten the seam with sleeve again inside sleeve head a zigzag or serger stitch, the seam allowance. then turn the sleeve through the armhole. Do not press or you 11 Trim the raw edges will flatten the sleeve head. of the sleeve. Right side of the garment

106 General techniques A sleeve that has a gathered sleeve head is referred to as a puff sleeve or gathered sleeve. It is one of the easiest sleeves to insert because the gathers take up any spare fabric. INSERTING A PUFF SLEEVE LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** 1Machine the sleeve seam, 2 Machine two rows of gather 3 Place the sleeve 4 Match the 5 Pull up the 6 Pin from the right side to right side, using stitches between the sleeve into the armhole, underarm gather stitches sleeve side. a 5⁄8in (1.5cm) seam allowance. notches, one row at 3⁄8in (1cm) right side to right side. seams and to make the sleeve Press the seam open. from the raw edge and the the notches. head fit the armhole. second row at 1⁄2in (1.2cm). 7 Working with the sleeve on top, 8 Stitch around the 9 Trim away the 10 Neaten 11Turn right side out—all the gathers machine the sleeve to the armhole. sleeve seam again surplus fabric the seam will be at the top of the sleeve. Use a 5⁄8in (1.5cm) seam allowance. between the first row by 3⁄16in (5mm). with a zigzag or Overlap the machining at the underarm. of stitching and the serger stitch. raw edge.

SLEEVE HEMS Sleeves 107 LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** The simplest way to finish a sleeve is with a self hem. Here the edge of the sleeve is turned up onto itself. Alternative finishes include inserting elastic into a casing or attaching a cuff. SELF HEM Seam pressed open Hem allowance 1Mark the final length of the sleeve with 2 Remove the excess seam 3 Turn up the hem along the basted line. 4 Match the seams. Pin in place. a row of basting stitches. allowance in the hem area. 5 Turn under the top edge of the hem 6 Baste to secure. Finished hem allowance by 3⁄8in (1cm) and pin. 7 Hand stitch the sleeve hem in place using a slip stitch.

108 General techniques 3 Turn up 3⁄16in (5mm) at the raw ELASTICATED SLEEVE EDGE edge and press. 1Make up the 4 Turn again sleeve and press on to the the seam open. basting line. 2 Work a row of basting stitches on the foldline of the hem. 5 Machine to hold Gap to insert the elastic. 6 Machine the the turn-up in bottom of the place, 1⁄16in (2mm) sleeve 1⁄16in (2mm) from the folded from the edge, to edge. Leave a gap on give a neat finish. each side of the This will also help seam allowance prevent the elastic through which you from twisting. will insert the elastic. 7 Cut a piece of 9 Turn the sleeve elastic to fit the to the right arm or wrist and side and check that insert it into the the elasticated sleeve end between edge is even. the two rows of machining. 8 Secure the ends of the elastic together, stitching an X for strength.

OPENINGS Sleeves 109 LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** The following finishes can both be used to complete the opening that accompanies a cuff. Use the bound opening on fabrics that fray easily. BOUND OPENING 1Stay stitch the 3 Working on the Bias strip split in the sleeve. right side of the sleeve, pin the 2 Slash between the bias strip along stay stitching lines. the stay stitching lines. To stitch around the end of the split, open the split out into a straight line. 4 Wrap the bias 6 Allow the bias strip, edge strip to close. One turned under, to the side of the strip will fold wrong side and pin under and the other in place. will extend over it. 5 Hand stitch 7 Secure the top to secure. fold in the bias strip with a double stitch. 8 Tailor baste the 9 The finished cuff end of the bias-bound bias strip to aid the opening. placement of the cuff.

110 General techniques FACED OPENING 1Turn under the long edges and one 2 Place the right side 3 Stitch vertically up the center of the 4 5Slash between Snip with short edge on the facing by about of the facing to the facing. Take one stitch across the end the stitching lines. small scissors 1⁄8in (3mm). Machine stitch to secure. right side of the sleeve and then stitch down the other side with at the appropriate about 3⁄16in (5mm) between the stitching into the end. sleeve markings. lines at the raw edge of the sleeve. 6 Turn the facing 7 The finished opening to the wrong side on the right side. of the sleeve and press. ATTACHING A CUFF There are various types of cuff that can be attached to sleeve openings. The one-piece cuff and the one-piece lapped cuff are both—as their names suggest—cut from the fabric LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** in one piece. Both work well with either a bound or faced opening. ONE-PIECE CUFF 1Apply fusible 2 Turn under a seam 3 Fold the cuff along the center Sleeve allowance interfacing to the allowance on the line, right side to right side. free on interfaced half of the cuff that non-interfaced side side of cuff will be the upper cuff. and baste to secure. 4 Machine stitch down the two short ends. Seam allowance ready to stitch on 5 Layer the seam by trimming to sleeve one edge, and clip the corners. 6 Turn the cuff through to the right side and press.

ONE-PIECE LAPPED CUFF Sleeves 111 1Apply fusible interfacing Seam allowance to the upper half of the extends cuff. Pin the interfaced half of the cuff to the sleeve end, right side to right side. 2 Machine the cuff to the sleeve using a 5⁄8in (1.5cm) seam allowance. 3 Trim the sleeve side of the seam allowance to half its width. Press the seam toward the cuff. Underlap 9 Turn the cuff to the right side. Push 4 Fold the non-interfaced the corners out to points. edge of the cuff over to the wrong side by 5⁄8in (1.5cm). 10 On the inside, hand stitch the 5 Fold the cuff to itself, right folded edge with a flat side to right side, so the fell or blind hem stitch. folded edge of the cuff comes to the sleeve-to-cuff seam line. 11Make a buttonhole on the upper side 6 Stitch one short end in of the cuff. line with the opening. 12 Sew a button 7 Stitch the other short end on the underside along from the sleeve-to-cuff of the cuff. seam line and then down the cuff. 8 Trim away the corners. Press the seams open.

112 General techniques POCKETS Pockets come in lots of shapes and formats. Some, such as patch pockets, are external and can be decorative, while others, including front hip pockets, are more discreet and hidden from view. You can also have a pocket flap that is purely decorative. This can be made from the same fabric as the garment or from a contrasting fabric. Whether casual or tailored, all pockets are functional. POCKET FLAP This pocket flap is sewn where the pocket would be, but there is no opening beneath it. This is to reduce the bulk that would arise if there were a complete pocket. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** 1The flap consists of Smooth curve 3 Stitch the pieces two pieces—a piece together along of lining and a piece of three sides, using a 3⁄8in interfaced fabric. Place the (1cm) seam allowance. two pieces together, right Stitch through the tailor’s side to right side. bastes. Leave the upper edge open. 2 Match the tailor’s bastes, then pin to secure. 7 Turn the flap through to the right side. Push 4 Layer the seam out the point. allowance, trimming from the lining only. 8 Press the lining toward the back 5 Remove the fabric so that it does not show. from the point. Press a smooth curve. 6 Use pinking shears 9 Stitch across the to reduce the bulk upper open edge through the curve. Press. to hold together. 10 Place the flap to the 11Machine in 12 Reduce 13 Press the flap into place. Allow 14 Top-stitch across the upper garment, right side to place over the seam the fabric at the top of the flap edge to secure. right side. Match the edges the stitching line. allowance by to roll gently downward. of the flap to the tailor’s half. Press. bastes on the garment.

Pockets 113 LINED PATCH POCKET If a self-lined patch pocket is likely to be too bulky, then a lined pocket is the answer. It is advisable to interface the pocket fabric. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** 1Cut the pocket fabric and 2 Place the lining top edge to the 3 Press the 4 Bring the bottom 5 Pin through apply interfacing. Cut the pocket top edge and machine pocket-to-lining edges of pocket the corners and lining fabric. The lining should together. Leave a gap of about 11⁄4in seam open. and lining together. along the sides. be shorter than the pocket. (3cm) in the seam for turning through. 6 Stitch around 7 Trim away the 9 Turn the pocket 10 Hand stitch the 11The lined patch pocket is ready the three open corners. to the right side gap with a flat to be attached. sides of the pocket through the gap left fell or blind hem stitch. to attach the lining 8 Use pinking shears in the seam. Press. to the pocket fabric. to trim the curves.

114 General techniques In pants and skirts, the pocket is sometimes disguised in the seam line. In the method below, a separate pocket is attached to the seam, but the pocket shape could also be cut as part of the IN-SEAM POCKET main fabric. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** 4 Machine the 7 Place the back pocket in place section of the 1Neaten the using a 3⁄8in (1cm) garment to the front, seam allowance seam allowance. right side to right on the front of Only stitch between side. Match the the garment. the tailor’s bastes. seams above and below the pocket. 2 Neaten the 5 Repeat the straight edge process for 8 Stitch a 5⁄8in of the pocket. the back of (1.5cm) seam to the garment. join the front and 3 Place the back of the garment pocket to the 6 Open the together. Extend the garment right side pocket out seam stitching 5⁄8in to right side. Match and press the (1.5cm) beyond the the tailor’s bastes seam toward pocket stitching. and the neatened the pocket. edges. Pin in place. 9 Stitch around the pocket to join the two 10 Neaten the 11On the garment 12 Press the side 13 On the right side, the pocket pieces together, stopping the stitching raw edges back, clip the seam seam open. Press opening is discreet. at the pocket-to-garment stitching line. of the pocket. allowance to the pocket-to- the pocket toward the garment stitching line. front of the garment.

FRONT HIP POCKET Pockets 115 LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** On many pants and casual skirts, the pocket is placed on the hipline. It can be low on the hipline or cut quite high, as on jeans. The construction is the same for all types of hip pockets. When Wrong side of inserted at an angle, hip pockets can slim the figure. garment front 1Apply a piece of fusible tape on the 2 Place the pocket lining to the front 3 Machine the 4 Trim the lining 5 Open out the garment along the line of the pocket. of the garment, right side to right side. lining in place, side of the seam lining and Match any notches that are on the seam. taking a 5⁄8in (1.5cm) allowance down to press the seam 10 Machine the pocket and lining Pin in place. seam allowance. half its width. toward it. together using a 5⁄8in (1.5cm) seam allowance. Press. 6 Turn the Wrong side lining to of garment the inside. Press so that the lining is not visible on the outside. 7 Top-stitch 3⁄16in (5mm) from the edge. 8 On the right side of the garment, 9 On the wrong side, pin the side front to pin the front to the side front along the lining to create the pocket. the placement lines. 11Neaten the raw edges of the seam allowance around the pocket. 12 Neaten 13 The angled front hip pocket the side from the right side. seam allowance, stitching from the top down. Make sure that the fabric lies flat on the side seam.

116 General techniques Hemlines The lower edge of a garment is normally finished with a hem. Sometimes the style of the garment dictates the type of hem used, and sometimes the fabric. MARKING A HEMLINE On a garment such as a skirt or a dress it is important that the hemline is level all around. Even if the fabric has been cut straight, some styles of skirt—such as A-line or circular— will “drop,” which means that the hem edge is longer in some places. This is because the fabric can stretch where it is not on the straight of the grain. Hang the garment for 24 hours in a warm room before hemming so you do not end up with an uneven hem. USING A RULER USING A DRESSMAKER’S DUMMY 1Put on the skirt or dress but no 1Adjust the dummy to your height and shoes. With the end of the ruler measurements. Place the skirt or dress on the floor, have a helper measure on the dummy. and mark. 2 The hem marker on its stand will hold the 2 Use pins to mark the crease line fabric. Use the marker to mark the crease of the proposed hem. Make sure the line of the proposed hem. measurement from floor to pin line is the same all the way around. 3 Slide a pin through the slot in the marker, then gently release the marker. HAND-STITCHED HEMS One of the most popular ways to secure a hem edge is by hand. Hand stitching is discreet and, if a fine hand-sewing needle is used, the stitching should not show LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY * on the right side of the work. Always finish the raw edge before stitching the hem. TIPS FOR SEWING HEMS BY HAND 3 Start and finish the hand stitching with a double stitch, not a knot, because knots will catch and pull the hem down. 1 Always use a single thread in the needle—a polyester all-purpose 4 It is a good idea to take a small back stitch every 4in (10cm) or so to make thread is ideal for hemming. sure that if the hem does come loose in one place it will not all unravel. 2 Once the raw edge of the hem allowance has been neatened by one of the methods below, secure it using a slip hem stitch. Take half of the stitch into the neatened edge and the other half into the wrong side of the garment fabric. SERGED FINISH 1Using a 3-thread serger stitch, stitch along 2 Gently press the hem up 3 Roll back the sergered edge. 4 Press carefully to prevent the raw edge of the hem allowance. into position and baste Using a slip hem stitch, stitch the the serging from being close to the crease. hem in place. imprinted on the right side.

Hemlines 117 BIAS-BOUND FINISH 1This is a good finish for fabrics that fray or that are bulky. Turn up the hem on to the wrong side of the garment and baste close to the crease line. 2 Pin the bias binding to the raw edge of the hem allowance. 3 Open out the crease in the bias and stitch along 4 Turn down the 5 Using a slip hem stitch, join the edge of the crease line, keeping the raw edges level. bias over the raw the bias to the wrong side of the fabric. edge and press. Remove the basting and press lightly. ZIGZAG FINISH 1Use this to neaten the edge of the hem on 2 Turn up the hem on to 3 Fold back the zigzag-stitched 4 Roll the edge back into fabrics that do not fray too badly. Set the the wrong side of the edge. Using a slip hem stitch, position. Remove the sewing machine to a zigzag stitch, width 4.0 garment and baste in place stitch the hem into place. basting and press lightly. and length 3.0. Machine along the raw edge. close to the crease line. Trim the fabric edge back to the zigzag stitch. PINKED FINISH 1Pinking shears can give an excellent 2 Turn up the hem on to the 3 Fold back the edge along the machine 4 Roll the hem edge back into hem finish on difficult fabrics. Machine wrong side of the garment stitching line. Using a slip hem stitch, position. Remove the a row of straight stitching along the raw and baste in place close to the stitch the hem in place. basting and press lightly. edge, 3⁄8in (1cm) from the edge. Pink crease line. the raw edge.

118 General techniques CURVED HEM FINISH 1Fold up the hemline and pin, 2Baste the hem into position placing the pins vertically to close to the crease line. Wrong side keep from squashing the fullness Remove the pins. out of the raw upper edge. 3 Make a row of long 4 Pull on one of the threads of machine stitches, length the long stitches to tighten the 5.0, close to the raw upper fabric and ease out the fullness. edge of the turned-up hem. 5 Use the steam iron to shrink out the remainder of the fullness. The hem is now ready to be stitched in place by hand or machine. MACHINED HEMS On many occasions , the hem or edge of a garment or other item is turned up and secured using the sewing machine. It can be stitched with a straight stitch, a zigzag stitch, or a blind LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY * hem stitch. Hems can also be made on the serger. DOUBLE-TURN HEM 1This hem will add weight at the edge. Fold up the raw 2 Pin in place, 3 Machine using a straight stitch, edge of the fabric once and then fold again. then press. close to the upper fold. HEMS ON DIFFICULT FABRICS 1Turn up the hem with a single turn. 2 Baste to secure. 3 Set the machine to a zigzag stitch, width 3.5 4 Trim away surplus and length 2.0, and zigzag close to the fold. hem allowance. Press.

Zips 119 Zippers The zipper is probably the most used of all fastenings. There are a great many types available, in a variety of lengths, colors, and materials, but they all fall into one of five categories: skirt or pant zippers, metal or jeans zippers, invisible zippers, open-ended zippers, and decorative zippers. LAPPED ZIPPER A skirt zipper in a skirt or a dress is usually put in by means of a lapped technique or a centered zipper technique (see p.120). For both of these techniques you will require the zipper foot on LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** the sewing machine. A lapped zipper features one side of the seam—the left-hand side— lapping over the teeth of the zipper to conceal them. 1Stitch the seam, 3 Insert the right-hand leaving enough of it side of the zipper open to accommodate first. Fold back the the zipper. right-hand seam allowance by 1⁄2in (1.2cm). 2 Secure the end This folded edge will not of the stitching. be in line with the seam. 4 Place the folded edge against the zipper teeth. Baste. 5 Using the zipper foot, stitch along the baste 6 Fold back the left-hand seam allowance by 7 Starting at the bottom of the zipper, stitch across line to secure the zipper tape to the fabric. 5⁄8in (1.5cm). Place the folded edge over the from the center seam line and then up the left Stitch from the bottom of the zipper to the top. machine line of the other side. Pin and then baste. side of the zipper. The finished zipper should have its teeth covered by the fabric.

120 General techniques With a centered zipper, the two folded edges of the seam allowances meet over the center of the teeth to conceal the zipper completely. CENTERED ZIPPER LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** 1Stitch the seam, 2 Baste the rest 3 Press the seam 4 Center the zipper behind the basted leaving a gap of the seam. open lightly. part of the seam. Pin and then baste for the zipper. in place along both sides. 5 Machine the zipper tape to the 6 Working from 7 Remove the 8 The finished zipper from seam allowance. Make sure both the right side, bastes. the right side. sides of the tape are secured to the stitch down one side seam allowances. Stitch right to the of the dip, across the end of the zipper tape. bottom, and up the other side through all the layers.

Zippers 121 FACED FLY-FRONT ZIPPER Whether it be for a classic pair of pants or a pair of jeans, a fly front is the most common technique for inserting a pant zipper. The zipper usually has a facing behind it to prevent the LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY *** zipper teeth from catching. 1Stitch the seam, 4 Trim the 6 Fold the leaving a gap for left-hand front left-hand front the zipper. of the opening along the foldline. straight, to measure 2 Using tailor’s 5⁄8in (1.5cm) from 7 Place the fold bastes, mark the the center line. adjacent to the center front lines. zipper teeth and pin 5 Neaten the in place. The zipper 3 Trace baste edges on may be too long; if so, the foldlines. both sides. it will extend beyond the top of the fabric. 8 Machine 9 Fold the 10On the along the right-hand inside, pin foldline using the front along the the zipper tape to zipper foot. Extend foldline. Place the fabric extension. the machining the foldline past the seam over the zipper and 11Machine the stitching line. pin to the machine zipper tape to stitching on the the fabric along the left-hand side. center of the tape. 12On the 13 Neaten all 14On the right side, the edges of wrong side, top-stitch around the fly-front facing, pin the facing to the the zipper. Start leaving the top left-hand side seam stitching at the edge raw. allowance. Ensure center front. Stitch that the facing fully a smooth curve. covers the zipper. 16 Attach the 15 Machine to waistband the seam over the zipper and allowance on the the facings. Trim left-hand side. facing and zipper. 18 The 17 Secure waistband the lower goes over the zipper edge of the facing and acts as the on the right-hand zipper stop. Attach side to the right-hand a pant hook seam allowance. and eye.

122 General techniques This type of zipper looks different from other zippers because the teeth are on the reverse and nothing except the pull is seen on the front. The zipper is inserted before the seam is stitched. INVISIBLE ZIPPER A special invisible zipper foot is required for stitching this zipper in position. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** 1Mark the 2 Center the zipper 3 Undo the zipper. Using the 4 Pull the zipper up. Place the other 5 Open the zipper again. Using seam over the baste invisible zipper foot, stitch under side of the fabric to the zipper. the invisible zipper foot, stitch allowance line, right side of the teeth from the top of the zipper. Match along the upper edge. Pin the down the other side of the zipper to with basting zipper to right side of Stop when the foot hits the zipper pull other side of the zipper tape in place. attach to the other side of the fabric. stitches. fabric. Pin in place and do two reverse stitches. Remove any basting stitches. down one side. Free end of zipper 6 Close the zipper. On the wrong side 7 Stitch the seam below the zipper 8 Stitch the last 11⁄4in (3cm) of 9 On the right side, the zipper is at the bottom of the zipper the two using the normal machine foot. the zipper tape just to the seam completely invisible, with rows of stitching that hold in the zipper There will be a small gap of about 1⁄8in allowances. This will keep the zipper only the pull visible at the top. should finish at the same place. (3mm) between the stitching line for from pulling loose. Apply waistband or facing. the zipper and that for the seam.

Buttons 123 Buttons Buttons are one of the oldest forms of fastenings. They come in many shapes and sizes and can be made from a variety of materials including shell, bone, plastic, nylon, and metal. Buttons are sewn to the fabric either through holes on their face, or through a hole in a stalk called a shank, which is on the back. Buttons are normally sewn on by hand, although a two-hole button can be sewn on by machine. SEWING ON A This is the most popular type of button and requires a thread shank to be made when sewing TWO-HOLE BUTTON in place. A toothpick on top of the button will help you to make the shank. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** 1Position the button 2 Place a toothpick on 3 Remove the 4 Wrap the thread around 5 Take the thread 6 Buttonhole stitch on the fabric. Start top of the button. toothpick. the thread loops under through to the over the loop of with a double stitch Stitch up and down the button to make a shank. back of the fabric. threads on the back and double thread through the holes, going of the work. in the needle. over the toothpick. SEWING ON A This is stitched in the same way as a two-hole button except that the threads make an X over FOUR-HOLE BUTTON the top of the button. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** 1Position the button 2 Using double thread, 3 Remove the 4 Wrap the thread around 5 On the reverse of the fabric, buttonhole stitch on the fabric. Place stitch diagonally toothpick. the thread loops under over the X-shaped thread loops. a toothpick on the between the holes of the the button to make the shank. button. button to make an X on top of the toothpick.

124 General techniques When sewing this type of button in place, use a toothpick under the button to enable you to make a thread shank on the underside of the fabric. SEWING ON A SHANKED BUTTON LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** 1Position the button on 2 Using double 3 Be sure each stitch goes around the toothpick 4 Remove the toothpick. Work buttonhole the fabric. Hold a thread, stitch the beneath the fabric. stitching over the looped thread shank beneath toothpick beneath the button to the fabric, the fabric. fabric, behind the button. through the shank. OVERSIZED AND 1First position the oversized LAYERED BUTTONS button on the fabric. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** 2 Top with a smaller button and stitch the two together to the fabric. There are some huge buttons available, many of which are really more decorative 3 Place a small one-hole button on than functional. By layering buttons of the layered buttons and attach to varying sizes together, you can make an the thread using a buttonhole stitch. unusual feature on a garment. POSITIONING Whether the buttonholes are to be stitched by machine or another type of buttonhole is to be BUTTONHOLES made, the size of the button will need to be established in order to determine the position of the buttonhole on the fabric. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY * 2 Work a row of basting stitches along the center front line of the right-hand side of the garment, as worn. 3 Work a second row of basting the diameter of the button away. 1Place the button on a sewing gauge and use the slider 4 Lay the buttons between the baste to measure the button’s diameter. lines. Stitch lines of basting at right angles to the first two basted rows, to mark the buttonhole positions.

Buttons 125 VERTICAL OR Generally, buttonholes are only placed vertically on a garment with a placket or strip to contain HORIZONTAL? the buttonhole. All other buttonholes should be horizontal. Any strain on the buttonhole will be taken by the end stop and keep the button from coming loose. HORIZONTAL BUTTONHOLES VERTICAL BUTTONHOLES These are These are positioned with positioned the end stop with the on the basted buttonhole center line. centered on the basted center line. STAGES OF A A sewing machine stitches a buttonhole in three stages. The stitch can be varied slightly in BUTTONHOLE width and length to suit the fabric, but the stitches need to be tight and close together. 1Machine the first side 2 Stitch a bar baste 3 Machine the second side and of the buttonhole. at one end. bar baste at the other end. MACHINE-MADE Modern sewing machines can stitch various types of buttonhole, suitable for all kinds of BUTTONHOLES garment. On many machines the button fits into a special foot, and a sensor on the machine determines the correct size of buttonhole. The width and length of the stitch can be altered to LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY * suit the fabric. Once the buttonhole has been stitched, always use a buttonhole chisel to slash through, to ensure that the cut is clean. BASIC BUTTONHOLE ROUND-END BUTTONHOLE KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE The most popular shape for a buttonhole A buttonhole featuring one rounded end and one This is also called a tailor’s buttonhole. It has is square on both ends. square end is used on lightweight jackets. a square end and a keyhole end and is used on jackets and coats.

126 General techniques Hooks and Eyes and Snaps There are many alternative ways to fasten a garment. The different hooks and eyes shown below are normally used to finish the top end of a zipper to help prevent it from pulling open, but a row of hooks and eyes can also be used on its own as a decorative way of closing and opening a garment. Snap fasteners are good for children’s clothing and uniforms, since they are easy to use. They also feature commonly on lightweight jackets, cardigans, and fleece jackets. HOOKS AND EYES There are a multitude of different types of hook and eye fasteners. Purchased hooks and eyes are made from metal and are normally silver or black in color. Different-shaped hooks LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** and eyes are used on different garments—large, broad hooks and eyes can be decorative and stitched to show on the outside, while tiny fasteners are meant to be discreet. A hook ATTACHING HOOKS AND EYES with a hand-worked eye produces a neat, close fastening. 1Secure the hook and eye in place with a basting 2 Stitch around each circular end 3 Place a few overstitches under stitch. Make sure they are in line with each other. with a buttonhole stitch. the hook to stop it from moving. HAND-WORKED EYE 1Using a double thread, work several small loops 2 Buttonhole stitch over these loops. 3 The completed loop will have a neat row into the edge of the fabric. of tight buttonhole stitches.

Hooks and eyes and snaps 127 PANT HOOK AND EYE 1A hook and eye fastener for pant and skirt waistbands is large 2 Buttonhole stitch through all the securing holes and flat. Baste both the hook and eye in position. Do not baste through on both hook and eye. their securing holes. SNAPS A snap is a ball and socket fastener that is used to hold two overlapping edges closed. The ball side goes on top and the socket side underneath. Snaps can be round or square LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY ** and can be made from metal or plastic. 1Baste the ball and socket halves of the snap in place. 2 Secure permanently using a buttonhole stitch through each hole in the outer edges of the snap halves. PLASTIC SNAPS 3 Remove the bastes. A plastic snap may be white or clear plastic and is usually square in shape. Stitch in place as for a metal snap.



the garments The twelve basic patterns in this section can be used to make thirty-one different garments. Details are given for making up the basic patterns, followed by the adaptations that are required to produce the variations.

the skirts This section is the perfect place for a beginner to start. It gives instructions for making three fabulous skirts and one simple variation of each. These stylish garments are straightforward and use a minimum of pattern pieces.

the skirts... ... and their variations Skirt pattern one Skirt pattern one variation Classic A-line skirt Button front A-line skirt >> p.132 >> p.136 Skirt pattern two Skirt pattern two Classic variation tailored skirt Tailored >> p.138 evening skirt Skirt pattern >> p.143 three Classic Skirt pattern three pleated skirt variation >> p.146 Topstitched pleated skirt >> p.152

132 Garments A simple A-line skirt with a narrow waistband will flatter all figure types and all ages >> p.136 >> p.134 SKIRT PATTERN the A-line skirts

Skirts 133 Skirt Pattern One CLASSIC A-LINE SKIRT This A-line skirt will never go out of style and can be worn at all times of the year and on all occasions. It is also one of the easiest garments for a beginner to make. It has only three pattern pieces—a front, a back, and a waistband. The skirt needs to fit comfortably around the waist and across the tummy, so check your measurements carefully against the pattern. Corduroy BEFORE YOU START GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Linen YOU WILL NEED This A-line skirt is shaped by the two darts in the front and back. There is a zipper in the left-hand side. The narrow This skirt is made in a cotton print, • 51in (1.3m) x 59in (150cm) fabric waistband is fastened with a button and buttonhole fastening. but works well in a wide range of • 1 spool matching all-purpose The finished skirt should sit just above the knee. fabrics. For winter you could choose a cozy corduroy. For summer, sewing thread Dart Narrow linen will keep you cool and fresh. waistband • 1 spool contrasting all-purpose Button sewing thread for pattern Side zipper marking • 39in (1m) waistband interfacing • 39in (18cm) skirt zipper • 1 button PREPARING THE PATTERN • This skirt is made using Skirt Pattern One (see pp. 280–281) • Follow the instructions (see pp.278–279) to copy or download the pattern in your size FRONT BACK

134 Garments HOW TO MAKE THE CLASSIC A-LINE SKIRT 1Cut out the fabric and mark the start of the 2 Make the darts (see p.91) and press toward the 3 Neaten the side seams on the back and the darts with tailor’s bastes (see p.91). Clip the end center of the garment. front using a 3-thread serger stitch or a small of the darts on the raw edge (see p.76). zigzag stitch (see pp.84–85). 5 Stitch the RH (right hand) side seam and press the seam open (see p.84). 4 Stitch the LH (left hand) side seam, leaving a gap for the zipper. 6 Attach the waistband interfacing to the waistband (see p.94). Press the seam open, then insert a zipper (see p.119).

Skirts 135 matched notches 7 Attach the waistband to the skirt, matching 8 Layer the seam allowance by trimming the 9 Fold the waistband RS (right side) to RS. Pin, the notches (see p.103). waistband side of the seam to half its width then stitch the ends of the waistband. (see p.89). Press toward the waistband. 10 Clip the ends of the waistband to reduce bulk. 11Turn the waistband to the RS, pushing the clipped ends out. Fold under the raw edge, then pin and hand stitch in place. overlap underlap 12 Neaten the hem edge by serging (see p.116). Turn up a 11⁄2in (4cm) 13 Make a buttonhole on the overlap of the waistband (see p.125). hem and hand stitch in place. Sew a button on the underlap (see pp.123–124).

136 Garments Skirt Pattern One Variation BUTTON FRONT A-LINE SKIRT This variation of the A-line skirt is a little more complicated and is the perfect next step for a novice sewer. To make it, you will shorten the basic pattern and extend the center front to create the pleat. The buttons on the pleat are purely decorative. This skirt would make a great winter or fall wardrobe staple. Denim Cotton twill This skirt is made in corduroy, but denim or cotton twill also work well. BEFORE YOU START GARMENT CONSTRUCTION >> p.137 YOU WILL NEED This variation of the Classic A-line skirt is shorter. It has >> p.132 a zipper in the left-hand side and features a stitched pleat • 48in (1.2m) x 59in (150cm) fabric to which buttons have been sewn for decoration. SKIRT PATTERN • 1 spool matching all-purpose Dart Waistband sewing thread Zipper • 1 spool contrasting all-purpose the A-line skirts sewing thread for pattern FRONT BACK marking Center front pleat Shorter • 39 in (1m) waistband interfacing with buttons hem • 7in (18cm) skirt zipper • 7 buttons PREPARING THE PATTERN • This skirt is made using Skirt Pattern One (see pp.280–281) • Follow the instructions (see pp.278–279) to copy or download the pattern in your size

Skirts 137 HOW TO MAKE THE BUTTON FRONT A-LINE SKIRT new center front (CF) trace new fold line bastes old center front (CF) tailor’s baste new hemline new cutting line old hemline 1To shorten the hem, copy the front and back 2 For the front pleat, mark a fold line 11⁄4in (3cm) 3 Cut out the fabric. On the skirt front, mark pattern pieces. Mark the hemline. Mark the to the left of the CF (center front). Mark the new the fold line and the CF with trace bastes new hemline 4in (10cm) above the old hemline. CF 11⁄4in (3cm) to the left of the new fold line. (see p.76). Mark a point on the fold line, 6in Draw a new cutting line 11⁄2in (4cm) below the (15cm) from the hem edge, with a tailor’s baste. new hemline. fold line 4 Matching the fold line markings, pin down the fold line WS (wrong 5 Open the front of the skirt. pleat side) to WS to the tailor’s baste. Stitch along the pinned line. To form the pleat, press the CF line onto the stitched line. 6 Complete the rest of the skirt as for the Classic A-line Skirt steps 1–11. 7 Neaten the hem edge by overlocking 8 Stitch the remainder of the pleat in place, 9 Sew buttons (see p.123) along the CF. (see p.116). Turn up a 11⁄2in (4cm) hem stitching through the hem. Press. and hand stitch in place.

138 Garments A must-have skirt for everyone’s wardrobe, this classic straight skirt with a back vent will never go out of fashion >> p.143 >> p.140 SKIRT PATTERN the tailored skirts

Skirts 139 Skirt Pattern Two CLASSIC TAILORED SKIRT A straight skirt is a staple garment in every woman’s wardrobe. It could be the bottom half of a suit, made in a party fabric for a night out, or just be a simple, hardworking everyday skirt. The vent in the center back hemline ensures that you won’t have trouble walking, whatever the occasion. The skirt should be close- fitting, so choose the pattern size by your hip measurement. BEFORE YOU START GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Wool worsted YOU WILL NEED This close-fitting skirt narrows slightly toward the hem and has a center back vent. One dart in the front and two in the back Matka silk • 39in (1m) x 59in (150cm) shape the skirt to the waist and there is a zipper in the center back. This skirt is made in lightweight The waistline is finished with a facing. tweed, but this style would look fabric great in many fabrics. Choose from Dart Center suitings, cottons, or silks. • 1 spool matching all-purpose back zipper sewing thread Vent • 1 spool contrasting all- FRONT BACK purpose sewing thread for pattern marking • 20in (50cm) lightweight fusible interfacing • 7in (18cm) skirt zipper PREPARING THE PATTERN • This skirt is made using Skirt Pattern Two (see pp. 282–283) • Follow the instructions (see pp.278–279) to copy or download the pattern in your size

140 Garments HOW TO MAKE THE CLASSIC TAILORED SKIRT raw edge 1Cut out the fabric and mark 2 Make the darts (see p.91) and 3 Neaten the side and CB (center back) seams using a 3-thread the darts using tailor’s bastes press toward the center of the serger stitch or a small zigzag stitch (see pp.84–85). (see p.91). Clip the end of the darts garment. on the raw edge (see p.76). 5 Stitch the remainder of the CB seam, stopping at the dot marking the top of the vent. Press the seam open. 4 Insert a concealed zipper at the CB (see p.122). 6 Join the front to the back at the side seams and press the seams open.

Skirts 141 front facing 7 Attach a lightweight fusible interfacing to the waist back facings facing pieces (see p.94). 8 Join the front and back facings and press the seams open. Neaten the lower edge of the facing using a 3-thread serger stitch or a small zigzag stitch. layered seam allowance clipped seam allowance 9 Place the facing to the skirt at the waist edge RS (right side) to RS, matching 10 Layer the seam allowance by trimming the facing side of the seam to the side seams and matching at the top of the zipper. Pin and machine. half its width. Clip the seam allowance to reduce bulk (see p.89). facing 11Press the seam toward the facing and understitch (see p.90). 12 Turn the facing to the inside then, at the CB, fold the edge of the facing in to meet the zipper tape. Pin and hand stitch in place.

142 Garments 13 At the vent, snip through the seam allowance on the LH (left hand) 14 Machine the extension in place. side and press the seam extension to the RH (right hand) side. 15 From the RS, the top of the vent can be seen 16 Neaten the hem edge (see pp.116–117). On each side of the vent, as a line of stitching. remove the surplus fabric in the hem allowance. 17 Miter the hem at the bottom of the vent. Pin. 18 Turn up the remainder of the hem, pin and hand stitch in place.

Skirts 143 Skirt Pattern Two Variation TAILORED EVENING SKIRT For this version of the skirt you will add a lining for a more luxurious finish. You will also shorten the skirt, which means you no longer need a center back vent to make walking easier. This skirt has been made in silk for an evening out, but would also work well in a heavier fabric worn with thick tights. Tweed Wool suiting This skirt is made in silk dupioni. Other silks, such as silk brocade, tweeds or suitings could also be used. BEFORE YOU START GARMENT CONSTRUCTION >> p.144 YOU WILL NEED This lined variation of the Classic Tailored Skirt is shorter >> p.138 without a back vent. There is a zipper in the center back. The • 36in (90cm) x 59in (150cm) fabric waistline is finished with a facing. The lining is cut from the SKIRT PATTERN • 36in (90cm) x 59in (150cm) same pattern pieces as the skirt. lining fabric Center back Darts zipper closure • 1 spool matching all-purpose the tailored skirts sewing thread FRONT Shorter BACK • 1 spool contrasting all-purpose hem sewing thread for pattern marking • 20in (50cm) lightweight fusible interfacing • 7in (18cm) skirt zipper PREPARING THE PATTERN • This skirt is made using Skirt Pattern Two (see pp. 282–283) • Follow the instructions (see pp.278–279) to copy or download the pattern in your size

144 Garments HOW TO MAKE THE TAILORED EVENING SKIRT old center back seam line new hemline new center new cutting line back seam line old hemline new hemline new cutting line old hemline 1To shorten the front of the skirt, copy the skirt front pattern piece. Mark the 2 To shorten the back of the skirt, copy the skirt back pattern piece. Shorten hemline. Mark the new hemline 31⁄4in (8cm) above the old hemline. Draw the skirt as for step 1. To remove the vent, extend the CB (center back) seam a new cutting line 11⁄2in (4cm) below the new hemline. line to the hemline. 3 Cut out the 4 Make the skirt 5 For the lining: make 6 Stitch the CB (center back) seam in the lining between the fabric and lining in the silk fabric as the darts and neaten marked dots, leaving the seam above open for the zipper. Press open. using the new for the Classic Tailored the side and CB seams as pattern pieces. Skirt steps 1–6. for the skirt.

Skirts 145 7 Join the side seams in the lining 8 Pin and baste the lining to the skirt at the 9 Attach the facing to the skirt and lining and press open. waist edge WS (wrong side) to WS, matching as for the Classic Tailored Skirt steps 7–11. the darts and seams. zipper tape 10 Neaten the hem edge on the skirt (see pp.116–117). Turn up the hem and hand stitch in place. 11Trim the lining level to the finished hem of the skirt and machine 12 At the CB, fold the edge of the lining in to meet the zipper tape. a 3⁄4in (2cm) double-turn hem (see p.118). Pin and hand stitch in place.

146 Garments A pleated skirt is always stylish. Try this box-pleated hip- skimming version with a plain sweater >> p.152 >> p.148 SKIRT PATTERN the pleated skirts

Skirts 147 Skirt Pattern Three CLASSIC PLEATED SKIRT In this skirt you’ll be introduced to making box pleats and adding a yoke. You should work carefully and accurately, since you’ll have to transfer all the marks for the folds from the pattern to your fabric. The flattering yoke over the tummy prevents bulk. Choose your size by your hip measurement to make sure the pleats hang straight and be sure you know the width of your belt before you construct the belt loops. Once you’ve finished, you’ll have a timeless pleated skirt to add to your wardrobe. Suiting BEFORE YOU START GARMENT CONSTRUCTION linen YOU WILL NEED This classic pleated unlined skirt has three box pleats at the Tartan back and front. The skirt has a self-lined yoke that sits just • 59in (1.5m) x 59in (150cm) fabric below the natural waistline, with two belt loops at the front For a winter or fall skirt, choose a fabric • 1 spool matching all-purpose and back. There is a zipper on the left-hand side. that presses well but isn’t too heavy. Here, a wool with a twill weave has been used, polyester sewing thread Yoke Belt loop but you could try a lightweight suiting, tweed, or tartan. For summer, • 2 spools contrasting all-purpose Zipper a crisp linen print is a good option. sewing thread in two different colors for pattern marking • 7in (18cm) skirt zipper • 20in (50cm) medium- weight interfacing PREPARING THE PATTERN • This skirt is made using Skirt Pattern Three (see pp. 284–285) • Follow the instructions (see pp.278–279) to copy or download the pattern in your size FRONT BACK Box pleat

148 Garments HOW TO MAKE THE CLASSIC PLEATED SKIRT trace basting 1Cut out the fabric and mark the fold lines and 2 Remove the pattern carefully so as not to 3 Fold the fabric RS (right side) to RS and match crease lines with trace basting (see p.76), each pull the trace basting out. basting of the same color to each other. Pin type of line in a different colored thread. Cut through along each line of basting. There will be two lines of the loops in the trace basting. pins. Baste through the pins, then remove the pins. 4 From the RS, the basted pleat can be seen 5 On the WS (wrong side), machine along this baste line to the dot marking on the pattern. with its trace basting. basting stitches 6 Press gently on the WS to make the pleat. 7 On the RS (right side), baste around the waist to hold the pleats in place. Repeat for each pleat. For sharp pleats, press more heavily, placing a pressing cloth over the fabric.