Dressmaking : The Complete Step-by-Step Guide to Making your Own Clothes ( PDFDrive )

Pant pattern two 299 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 22 44 66 88 10 10 12JOIN TUCK 12 14 PANT FRONT 16 14 Cut 2 fabric 16 18 18 20 20 22 22 24JOIN LEFT HAND FRONT 24 CF 26 26 WAISTBAND CB 28 Cut 1 fabric 28 30 30 32 32 34 34 36 36 38 38 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60

300 Patterns 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 TOP PATTERN ONE 2 2 44 CB 66 88 10 10 12 TOP BACK Cut 2 fabric 12 14 14 16 16 18 18 20 20 22 22 24 24 26 26 28 28 30 TOP FRONT 32 30 Cut 1 on folded fabric 32 34 34 FOLD 36 36 38 38 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

Top pattern one 301 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 22 44 66 88 10 10 12 SLEEVE Cut 2 fabric 12 14 14 16 16 18 18 20 20 22 22 24 CB 24 26 BACK SIZES 26 FACING 28 FRONT size 6 30 FACING Cut 2 fabric size 8 32 Cut 2 interfacing size 10 28 size 12 size 14 FOLD size 16 size 18 30 size 20 size 22 Cut 1 on folded fabric Cut 1 on folded interfacing 32 34 NOTE: One square in the grid equals 2in at 34 full size. A seam allowance of 5⁄8in (1.5cm) is included in the pattern pieces. After you have cut out the pattern pieces in your size, you 36 may wish to add seam lines 5⁄8in (1.5cm) 36 inside the cutting lines (see p.278). 38 38 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60

302 Patterns 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 TOP PATTERN TWO 2 2 FOLD 44 66 8 8 10 TOP BACK 10 Cut 1 on folded fabric 12 12 14 14 16 16 18 18 20 20 22 22 FRONT 24 24 26 26 SLEEVE Cut 2 fabric 28 28 30 YOKE 30 32 32 COLLAR Cut 2 fabric 34 Cut 2 fabric FRONT Cut 2 interfacing 34 36 36 38 38 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

Top pattern two 303 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 2 NOTE: One square in SIZES 2 the grid equals 2in 4 4 at full size. A seam size 6 6 allowance of 5⁄8in size 8 8 6 (1.5cm) is included in size 10 the pattern pieces. size 12 8 SIDE FRONT After you have cut out size 14 the pattern pieces in size 16 Cut 2 fabric your size, you may size 18 wish to add seam size 20 10 lines 5⁄8in (1.5cm) size 22 inside the cutting lines (see p.278). 10 12 12 14 14 TOP FRONT Cut 2 fabric 16 16 18 18 CF 20 FOLD 20 Interface 22 22 24 24 26 26 28 FRONT INTERFACING 30 32 28 34 Cut 2 interfacing 30 32 CUFF Cut 2 fabric Cut 2 interfacing FOLD 34 36 36 38 38 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60

304 Patterns 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 JACKET PATTERN ONE 2 2 FOLD TUCK 44 66 BACK LINING 8 (Variation only) 8 Cut 1 on folded lining 10 10 12 12 14 14 16 16 18 18 20 20 22 22 24 24 26 26 28 FRONT LINING 30 32 (Variation only) 28 Cut 2 lining 30 TUCK 32 34 FRONT FACING 34 36 Cut 2 fabric 36 38 38 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

Jacket pattern one 305 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 Use size 6 notch for 2 sizes 8 and 10 2 44 JACKET BACK Cut 2 fabric 66 88 10 10 12 12 SIDE BACK Cut 2 fabric 14 14 SIZES 16 NOTE: One square in the grid equals size 6 16 2in at full size. A seam allowance of size 8 5⁄8in (1.5cm) is included in the pattern size 10 18 pieces. After you have cut out the size 12 18 pattern pieces in your size, you may size 14 wish to add seam lines 5⁄8in (1.5cm) size 16 inside the cutting lines (see p.278). size 18 20 size 20 20 size 22 22 22 24 24 26 SIDE FRONT Cut 2 fabric 26 28 28 30 30 32 32 34 34 36 JACKET FRONT Cut 2 fabric 36 38 38 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60

306 Patterns 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 22 44 66 88 10 10 COLLAR (Variation only) 12 Cut 2 fabric 12 Cut 2 interfacing 14 14 16 16 18 18 20 20 22 22 24 SLEEVE LINING (Variation only) 24 Cut 2 lining 26 26 28 28 30 30 32 32 34 34 36 36 38 38 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

Jacket pattern one 307 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 2 CB 2 FOLD 4 4 6 BACK 8 POCKET FACING 10 6 FLAP Cut 1 on folded fabric 8 Cut 4 fabric Cut 1 on folded interfacing Cut 2 interfacing 10 12 12 14 14 16 16 18 18 20 20 22 22 SLEEVE Cut 2 fabric 24 24 26 26 28 28 30 30 32 32 34 34 36 36 38 38 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60

308 Patterns 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 JACKET PATTERN TWO 2 2 44 66 88 10 10 12 12 14 14 16 16 18 JACKET BACK LINING BACK 18 (Variation only) FACING Cut 1 lining TUCK 20 20 CB Cut 2 fabric 22 Cut 2 22 interfacing 24 24 26 26 28 28 30 30 32 32 34 34 36 36 38 38 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

Jacket pattern two 309 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 22 44 66 JACKET BACK Cut 2 fabric 88 10 10 12 12 14 14 16 SIZES size 6 16 NOTE: One square in the grid size 8 equals 2in at full size. A seam size 10 18 allowance of 5⁄8in (1.5cm) is size 12 18 included in the pattern pieces. After size 14 you have cut out the pattern pieces size 16 in your size, you may wish to add size 18 20 20 seam lines 5⁄8in (1.5cm) inside the cutting lines (see p.278). size 20 size 22 22 22 24 24 26 26 28 28 JACKET FRONT Cut 2 fabric 30 30 32 32 34 34 36 36 38 38 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60

310 Patterns 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 22 44 66 88 10 10 FRONT LINING 12 (Variation Only) 12 Cut 2 lining TUCK 14 14 16 16BACK HEM FACING Use size 6 for sizes 8 and 10 18 18 POCKET 20 (Variation Only) 20 Cut 2 fabric Cut 2 lining 22 22 24 24 26 LOWER FRONT FACING 26 28 Cut 2 fabric Cut 2 interfacing 28 30 30 32 UPPER FRONT FACING 32 34 Cut 1 fabric Cut 2 fabric 36 Cut 1 interfacing Cut 2 interfacing 34 36 38 38 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

Jacket pattern two 311 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 22 44 66 8 8 10 SLEEVE Cut 2 fabric 10 12 12 14 14 16 16 18 18 20 20 22 22 24 24 26 SLEEVE LINING 28 26 (Variation Only) Cut 2 lining 28 30 30 32 32 34 34 36 36 38 38 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60

312 Glossary glossary Acetate Man-made fabric widely used for linings. Buttonhole Opening through which a button Cotton Soft, durable, and inexpensive fabric is inserted to form a fastening. Buttonholes are usually widely used in dressmaking. Made from the Acrylic Man-made fabric resembling wool. machine stitched but may also be worked by hand or fibrous hairs covering the seed pods of the piped for reinforcement or decorative effect. cotton plant. Armhole Opening in a garment for the sleeve and arm. Buttonhole chisel Very sharp, small chisel Crease Line formed in fabric by pressing a fold. that cuts cleanly through a machine-stitched Back stitch A strong hand stitch with a double buttonhole. Crepe Soft fabric made from twisted yarn. stitch on the wrong side, used for outlining and seaming. Buttonhole stitch Hand stitch that wraps over Cross stitch A temporary hand stitch used to the raw edges of buttonholes to neaten and hold pleats in place and to secure linings. It can Basting stitch A temporary running stitch strengthen them. Machine-stitched buttonholes also be used for decoration. used to hold pieces of fabric together or for are worked with a close zigzag stitch. transferring pattern markings to fabric. Cutting line Solid line on a pattern piece used Button shank Stem of a button that allows as a guide for cutting out fabric. Belt loop Loop made from a strip of fabric room for the buttonhole to fit under the button that is used to support a belt at the waist when joined. Darning Mending holes or worn areas in a knitted edge of a garment. garment by weaving threads in rows along the Cashmere The most luxurious of all wools. grain of the fabric. Bias 45-degree line on fabric that falls between the lengthwise and the crosswise grain. Fabric Casing Tunnel of fabric created by parallel rows Dart Tapered stitched fold of fabric used on a cut on the bias drapes well. See also Grain. of stitching through which elastic or a drawstring garment to give it shape so that it can fit around cord is threaded. Often used at a waist edge. the contours of the body. There are different Bias binding Narrow strips of fabric cut on Sometimes extra fabric is required to make a types of dart, but all are used mainly on women’s the bias. Used to give a neat finish to hems and casing; this can be applied to the inside or outside clothing. seam allowances. of the garment. Darted tuck A tuck that can be used to give Binding Method of finishing a raw edge by Catch stitch See Slip hem stitch. fullness of fabric at the bust or hip. See also Tuck. wrapping it in a strip of bias-cut fabric. Center back The vertical line of symmetry of a Denim Hard-wearing twill weave fabric with colored Blanket stitch Hand stitch worked along the garment back piece. Often marked as CB. warp and white weft. raw or finished edge of fabric to neaten it, and for decorative purposes. Center front The vertical line of symmetry of a Double-pointed dart See Contour dart garment front piece. Often marked as CF. Blind hem stitch Tiny hand stitch used to Drape The way a fabric falls into graceful folds; attach one piece of fabric to another, mainly Challis Fine woolen fabric with uneven surface drape varies with each fabric. to secure hems. Also a machine stitch consisting texture. of two or three straight stitches and one wide Dressmaker’s carbon paper Used together zigzag stitch. Chambray A light cotton with a colored warp with a tracing wheel to transfer pattern markings thread. to fabric. Available in a variety of colors. Bobbin Round holder beneath the needle plate of a sewing machine on which the thread Cheesecloth Fine, plain, open-weave cotton. Duchesse satin Heavy, expensive satin fabric. is wound. Chiffon Strong, fine, transparent silk. Dupioni Fabric with a distinctive weft yarn that is Bodice Upper body section of a garment. textured; made from 100 percent silk. Clapper Wooden aid that is used to pound Boning Narrow nylon, plastic, or metal strip, creases into heavy fabric after steaming. Ease Distributing fullness in fabric when joining available in various widths, that is used for two seams together of slightly different lengths, stiffening and shaping close-fitting garments, Contour dart Also known as double-pointed for example, a sleeve to an armhole. such as bodices. dart, this is used to give shape at the waist of a garment. It is like two darts joined together. See Ease stitch Long machine stitch, used to ease Box pleat Pleat formed on the wrong side also Dart. in fullness where the distance between notches of the fabric, and fuller than a knife pleat. is greater on one seam edge than on the other. See also Pleat. Corduroy A soft pile fabric with distinctive ribs.

Glossary 313 Edge to edge A garment, such as a jacket, in Grosgrain Synthetic, ribbed fabric often used Layering Trimming one side of the seam allowance to which the edges meet at the center front without to make ribbons. half its width to reduce bulk at the seam. overlapping. Habutai Smooth, fine silk originally from Japan. Linen Natural fiber derived from the stem of the Enclosed edge Raw fabric edge that is concealed flax plant, linen is available in a variety of qualities and within a seam or binding. Hem The edge of a piece of fabric neatened and weights. stitched to prevent unraveling. There are several Eyelet A fine plain-weave cotton embroidered to methods of doing this, both by hand and by machine. Lining Underlying fabric layer used to give a make small decorative holes. neat finish to an item, as well as concealing the Hem allowance Amount of fabric allowed for stitching and seams of a garment. Facing Layer of fabric placed on the inside of a turning under to make the hem. garment and used to finish off raw edges of an Locking stitch A machine stitch where the upper armhole or neck of a garment. Usually a separate Hemline Crease or foldline along which a hem is and lower threads in the machine “lock” together piece of fabric, the facing can sometimes be an marked. at the start or end of a row of stitching. extension of the garment itself. Herringbone stitch Hand stitch used to secure Madras Brightly colored, unevenly checked Filament fibers Very fine synthetic thread, hems and interlinings. This stitch is worked from cotton fabric from India. manufactured using plant materials and minerals. left to right. Matka A silk suiting fabric with uneven yarn. Flannel Wool or cotton with a lightly brushed Herringbone weave A zigzag weave where surface. the weft yarn goes under and over warp yarns Miter The diagonal line made where two edges in a staggered pattern. of a piece of fabric meet at a corner, produced Flat fell seam See Run and fell seam. by folding. See also Mitered corner. Hong Kong finish A method of neatening raw Flat fell stitch A strong, secure stitch used to edges particularly on wool and linen. Bias-cut Mitered corner Diagonal seam formed when fabric hold two layers together permanently. Often strips are wrapped around the raw edge. is joined at a corner. Excess fabric is cut away before or used to secure linings and bias bindings. after stitching. Hook and eye fastening Two-part metal fastening French dart Curved dart used on the front of used to fasten overlapping edges of fabric where Mohair Fluffy wool yarn cloth used for sweaters, a garment. See also Dart. a neat join is required. Available in a wide variety jackets, and soft furnishings. of styles. French seam A seam traditionally used on sheer Multisize pattern Paper pattern printed with cutting and silk fabrics. It is stitched twice, first on the Interfacing A fabric placed between garment lines for a range of sizes on each pattern piece. right side of the work and then on the wrong and facing to give structure and support. Available side, enclosing the first seam. in different thicknesses, interfacing can be fusible Muslin A plain weave, usually unbleached fabric. (bonds to the fabric by applying heat) or nonfusible Fusible tape Straight grain tape used to stabilize (needs to be sewn to the fabric). Nap The raised pile on a fabric made during the edges and also replace stay stitching. The heat of weaving process, or a print pointing one way. the iron fuses it into position. Interlining Layer of fabric attached to the main When cutting out pattern pieces, ensure the nap fabric prior to construction, to cover the inside runs in the same direction. Gabardine Hard-wearing fabric with a distinctive of an entire garment to provide extra warmth or weave. bulk. The two layers are then treated as one. Often Needle threader Gadget that pulls thread through used in jackets and coats. the eye of a needle. Useful for needles with small eyes. Gathers Bunches of fabric created by sewing two parallel rows of loose stitching, then pulling the Jersey Cotton or wool yarn that has been knitted Notch V-shaped marking on a pattern piece threads up so that the fabric gathers and reduces to give stretch. used for aligning one piece with another. Also in size to fit the required space. V-shaped cut taken to reduce seam bulk. Keyhole buttonhole stitch A machine buttonhole Gingham Two-color, checked cotton fabric. stitch characterized by having one square end while Notion An item other than fabric needed to the other end is shaped like a loop to accommodate complete a project, such as a button, zipper, or Grain Lengthwise and crosswise direction of the button’s shank without distorting the fabric. elastic. Notions are normally listed on the threads in a fabric. Fabric grain affects how a Often used on jackets. pattern envelope. fabric hangs and drapes.

314 Glossary Organza Thin, sheer fabric made from silk or Pressing cloth Muslin or organza cloth placed Seamline Line on paper pattern designated for polyester. over fabric to prevent marking or scorching when stitching a seam; usually this is 5⁄8in (1.5cm) from pressing. the seam edge. Overedge stitch Machine stitch worked over the edge of a seam allowance and used for Prick stitch Small spaced hand stitch with large Seam ripper A small, hooked tool used for undoing neatening the edges of fabric. spaces between each stitch. Often used to highlight seams and unpicking stitches. the edge of a completed garment. Pattern markings Symbols printed on a paper Seam roll Tubular pressing aid for pressing seams pattern to indicate the fabric grain, foldline, and Raw edge Cut edge of fabric that requires finishing, open on fabrics that mark. construction details, such as darts, notches, and for example, using zigzag stitch, to prevent fraying. tucks. These should be transferred to the fabric Selvage Finished edge on a woven fabric. using tailor’s chalk or tailor’s bastes. Rayon Also known as viscose, rayon is often This runs parallel to the warp (lengthwise) blended with other fibers. threads. Pile Raised loops on the surface of a fabric, for example, velvet. Reverse stitch Machine stitch that simply stitches Set-in sleeve A sleeve that fits into a garment back over a row of stitches to secure the threads. smoothly at the shoulder seam. Pinking A method of neatening raw edges of fray-resistant fabric using pinking shears. This will Right side The outer side of a fabric, or the visible Serger Machine used for quick stitching, leave a zigzag edge. part of a garment. trimming, and edging of fabric in a single action; it gives a professional finish to a garment. There Pinking shears Cutting tool with serrated blades, Rouleau loop Button loop made from a strip are a variety of accessories that can be attached used to trim raw edges of fray-resistant fabrics to of bias binding. It is used with a round ball-type to an serger that enable it to perform a neaten seam edges. button. greater range of functions. Pivoting Technique used to machine stitch a Round-end buttonhole stitch Machine stitch Serger stitch A machine stitch that neatens edges corner. The machine is stopped at the corner characterized by one end of the buttonhole being and prevents fraying. It can be used on all types of with the needle in the fabric, then the foot is square and the other being round, to allow for fabric. raised, the fabric turned following the direction the button shank. of the corner, and the foot lowered for stitching Sewing gauge Measuring tool with adjustable to continue. Run and fell seam Also known as a flat fell slider for checking small measurements, such as seam, this seam is made on the right side of a hem depths and seam allowances. Placket An opening in a garment that provides garment and is very strong. It uses two lines support for fasteners, such as buttons, snaps, of stitching and conceals all the raw edges, Sharps All-purpose needle used for hand sewing. or zippers. reducing fraying. Shirting Closely woven, fine cotton with colored Plain weave The simplest of all the weaves; the Running stitch A simple, evenly spaced straight warp and weft yarns. weft yarn passes under one warp yarn, then over stitch separated by equal-sized spaces, used for another one. seaming and gathering. Silk Threads spun by the silkworm and used to create cool, luxurious fabrics. Pleat An even fold or series of folds in fabric, often Satin A fabric with a satin weave. partially stitched down. Commonly found in skirts Slip hem stitch Similar to herringbone stitch but to shape the waistline, but also in soft furnishings Satin weave A weave with a sheen, where the is worked from right to left. It is used mainly for for decoration. weft goes under four warp yarns, then over one. securing hems. Pocket flap A piece of fabric that folds down to Seam Stitched line where two edges of fabric Snaps Also known as press studs, these fasteners cover the opening of a pocket. are joined together. are used as a lightweight hidden fastener. Polyester Man-made fiber that does not crease. Seam allowance The amount of fabric allowed Snips Spring-loaded cutting tool used for cutting for on a pattern where sections are to be joined off thread ends. Presser foot The part of a sewing machine that together by a seam; usually this is 5⁄8in (1.5cm). is lowered on to the fabric to hold it in place over Staple fibers These include both natural and the needle plate while stitching. There are different Seam edge The cut edge of a seam allowance. manufactured fibers such as cotton, wool, flax, feet available. and polyester. They are short in length, and relatively narrow in thickness.

Glossary 315 Stay stitch Straight machine stitch worked Toile A test or dry run of a paper pattern using Weft knit Made in the same way as hand knitting, just inside a seam allowance to strengthen it muslin. The toile helps you analyze the fit of the this uses one yarn that runs horizontally. and prevent it from stretching or breaking. garment. Welt Strip of fabric used to make the edges of Stitch in the ditch A line of straight stitches Topstitch Machine straight stitching worked a pocket. sewn on the right side of the work, in the ditch on the right side of an item, close to the finished created by a seam. Used to secure waistbands edge, for decorative effect. Sometimes stitched Wool A natural animal fiber, available in a range and facings. in a contrasting color. of weights, weaves, and textures. It is comfortable to wear, crease-resistant, and ideal for tailoring. Stitch ripper See Seam ripper. Topstitched seam A seam finished with a row of topstitching for decorative effect. This seam Wool worsted A light, strong cloth made from Straight stitch Plain machine stitch, used for is often used on crafts and soft furnishings as good quality fibers. most applications. The length of the stitch can well as garments. be altered to suit the fabric. Wrong side Reverse side of a fabric; the inside Trace basting A method of marking fold and of a garment or other item. Stretch stitch Machine stitch used for stretch placement lines on fabric. Loose stitches are sewn knits and to help control difficult fabrics. It is along the lines on the pattern to the fabric beneath, Yoke The top section of a dress or skirt from which worked with two stitches forward and one then the thread loops are cut and the pattern the rest of the garment hangs. backward so that each stitch is worked three removed. times. Zigzag stitch Machine stitch used to neaten and Tracing wheel Tool used together with dressmaker’s secure seam edges and for decorative purposes. Taffeta Smooth plain-weave fabric with a crisp carbon paper to transfer pattern markings on to The width and length of the zigzag can be altered. appearance. fabric. Zipper Fastening widely used on garments Tailor’s buttonhole A buttonhole with one Tuck Fold or pleat in fabric that is sewn in place, consisting of two strips of fabric tape, carrying square end and one keyhole-shaped end, used normally on the straight grain of the fabric. specially shaped metal or plastic teeth that lock on jackets and coats. Often used to provide a decorative addition to together by means of a pull or slider. Zippers are a garment. available in different colors and weights. Tailor’s chalk Square- or triangular-shaped piece of chalk used to mark fabric. Available in a variety Tweed Traditional tweed is a rough fabric with Zipper foot Narrow machine foot with a single toe of colors, tailor’s chalk can be removed easily a distinctive warp and weft. Modern tweed is a that can be positioned on either side of the needle. by brushing. mix of chunky and bobbled wool yarns, often in bright colors. Tailor’s ham A ham-shaped pressing cushion that is used to press shaped areas of garments. Twill weave Diagonal patterned weave. Tailor’s bastes Loose thread markings used to Understitch Machine straight stitching through transfer symbols from a pattern to fabric. facing and seam allowances that is invisible from the right side; this helps the facing to lie flat. Tape maker Tool for evenly folding the edges of a fabric strip, which can then be pressed to Velvet Luxurious pile-weave fabric. make binding. Waistband Band of fabric attached to the waist Tape measure Flexible form of ruler made from edge of a garment to provide a neat finish. plastic or fabric. Warp Lengthwise threads or yarns of a woven Tartan Fabric made using a twill weave from fabric. worsted yarns. Traditionally used for kilts. Warp knit Made on a knitting machine, this knit Thimble Metal or plastic cap that fits over the is formed in a vertical and diagonal direction. top of a finger to protect it when hand sewing. Weft Threads or yarns that cross the warp of a woven fabric.

316 Index darts 59 reinforced corners 88 measuring 54 stitching 87–8 index pattern alterations 59–60 cotton and linen mix fabrics 46 seams 60 cotton fabrics 39–42 3-step zigzag stitch 82 toile alterations 69 cotton thread 16 3-thread serger stitch 85 buttonhole chisels 12, 21 crepe 36 4-thread serger stitch 85 buttonhole foot 29 crewel needles 14 14-in-1 measure 24 buttonhole stitches 83 crotch depth basic buttonhole stitch 83 measuring 55 A keyhole buttonhole stitch 83 pattern alterations 66, 67 round-end buttonhole stitch 83 cuffs 110–11 acetate 48 buttonholes one-piece cuff 110 acryclic 48 damaged buttonholes, repairing 257 one-piece lapped cuff 111 alpaca 36 horizontal buttonholes 125 curved hems 118 altering patterns 56–67 machine-made 125 curved seams angora 36 positioning 124 bust seams 60 armhole facings 98–9 vertical buttonholes 125 inner curves 88, 89 arms, measuring 55 buttons 22, 123–4 outer curves 88, 90 artficial silk see rayon four-hole button, sewing on 123 pattern alterations 60 oversized and layered buttons 124 reducing seam bulk 89–90 B repairing fabric under 257 cutting out 70–7 shanked button, sewing on 124 fabric preparation 70, 71 back two-hole button, sewing on 123 how to cut 76 back waist, measuring 55 pattern layout 72–5 toile alterations 68 C pattern marking 76–7 cutting shears 12, 20 back stitch 80 camel hair 36 cutting tools 13, 20–1 basting stitches carbon paper 19, 77 cardigan, adding a ribbon trim to 274–5 D basic bastes 81 cashmere 36 long and short bastes 81 centered zippers 120 darner’s needles 14 tailor’s bastes 76, 77 chalk darning holes 256 beading needles 14 darts 91–2 beeswax 24 mechanical pencils 19 bent-handled shears 21 pencils 19 bust darts 59, 91 betweens 14 tailor’s chalk 19 contour or double-pointed darts 92 bias binding chambray 40 pattern alterations 58–9 cutting strips 96 check fabrics, matching 74–5 plain darts 91 hems 117 cheesecloth 42 pressing 92 neck edges 99 chenille needles 14 shaping darts to fit 91 seams 86 chiffon 43 waistline darts 91, 92 waistband edges 103 clappers 32 denim 40 blind hem foot 29 collar point turners 24 dots, marking 76, 77 blind hem stitch 81, 83 collars 101 double-pointed darts 92 blouses see tops adding a collar to a dress 268–9 double-turn hems 118 bobbins two-piece shirt collar 101–2 drafting rulers 19 metal 28 contour darts 92 dress-weight linen 46 plastic 28 corduroy 40, 71 dresses 154–201 bodices corners adding a collar and pockets 268–9 attaching skirts to 93 heavy fabric 87 classic empire waist dress 190–4, 291–3 boning 23 inner corners 88 classic shift dress 156–60, 286–7 pattern alterations 56 bodkins 14 body, measuring 54–5 boning 23 box pleats 146–53 bust

classic waisted dress 174–8, 288–90 fly-front zippers 121 317 long empire waist dress 198–201 interfacings 95 pattern alterations 57, 61, 62, 63 neatening 96–7 hems 116–18 sequin and bead embellishment 270–1 neck 95, 97–8, 99 bias-bound hems 117 short sleeveless shift dress 170–3 sleeve openings 110 curved hems 118 short-sleeved shift dress 161–3 waistlines 100 difficult fabrics 118 short-sleeved waisted dress 179–80 double-turn hems 118 sleeveless empire waist dress 195–7 fancy weave linen 47 hand-stitched hems 116–18 sleeveless shift dress 167–9 fasteners 22 machine-stitched hems 118 sleeveless waisted dress 181–4 marking a hemline 116 square-neck shift dress 164–6 buttons and buttonholes 22, 123–5 serged finish 116 waisted cocktail dress 185–9 hooks and eyes 22, 126–7 pattern alterations 58 dressmaker’s dummy 25, 116 snaps 22, 127 pinked finish 117 dressmaker’s pins 15 Velcro™ 22 sleeves 107 duchesse satin 43 zippers 13, 119–22 zigzag finish 117 dupioni 44 flannel 37 see also edges flaps, pocket 112 E flat fell stitch 81 herringbone stitch 81 flexible rulers 18 hip pockets 115 edges flowerhead pins 15 hips facings 96–7 fly-front zippers 121 seams 84–6, 90 French seams 85 measuring 54–5 sleeves 107–8 fringes 23 pattern alterations 56, 62–3, 67 waistbands 103 fur fabrics, synthetic 49 toile alterations 68, 69 see also hems fusible interfacings 94, 95 Hong Kong finish 86 fusible patches 258–60 hooks and eyes 22 elastic 23 attaching 126–7 repairing/replacing 261 G hand-worked eyes 126 horizontal buttonholes 125 elastic thread 16 gabardine 37 household pins 15 embroidery foot 28 garments 128–251 embroidery scissors 13, 20 I embroidery thread 17 customizing 262–75 emergency sewing kit 24 dresses 154–201 inside leg, measuring 55 extra-fine pins 15 jackets 236–53 interfacings 94, 95 extra-long tapes 18 pants 202–17 eyelet 39 skirts 130–53 applying to facings 95 eyes tops 218–35 fusible 94, 95 gathered sleeves 106 nonfusible 94 hand-worked 126 gathers 93 invisible zipper foot 29 hooks and eyes 22, 126–7 gingham 41 invisible zippers 122 glass-headed pins 15 ironing boards 32–3 F grain, fabric 70 irons 33 fabrics 34–49 H J cotton 39–42 cutting out 70–7 habutai 44 jackets 236–53 grain 70 hand stitches 80–1 boxy jacket with collar 242–5 linen 46–7 classic boxy jacket 238–41, 304–7 nap 70, 71, 73 back stitch 80 classic shawl collar jacket 246–50, 308–11 preparation 70, 71 hem stitches 81 lined shawl collar jacket 251–3 silk 43–5 straight edge 71 basting stitches 81 jeans: turning jeans into a skirt 266–7 synthetic fabrics 48–9 locking stitch 80 jersey 41 wool 36–8 prick stitch 81 running stitch 81 K facings 95–100 height, measuring 54 armholes 98–9 hem stitches 81 keyhole buttonhole stitch 83, 125 bias binding 96 blind hem stitch 81 knitted fabrics 48, 49 construction 95 flat fell stitch 81 cuffs 110–11 herringbone stitch 81 L slip hem stitch 81 lapped cuffs 111 lapped zippers 119 layering a seam 89

318 Index laying out a pattern 72–5 needle threaders 13, 14 neatening facings 97 lengthening and shortening patterns 56–9 automatic 14, 26 neatening seams 84 linen fabrics 46–7 wire 14 pins 13, 15 linings plain seams 84 needles 12, 14 pockets 112–15 jacket 251–3 machine needles 28 adding pockets to a dress 268–9 patch pocket 113 serger needles 30 flaps 112 liquid sealant 24 threading 80 front hip pocket 115 locking stitch 80, 82 in-seam pocket 114 long and short bastes 81 nonfusible interfacings 94 lined patch pocket 113 loop turners 25 notches, marking 76 polyester all-purpose thread 16 notching 89 polyester fabrics 49 M notions 13, 22–3 pressing aids 13, 32–3 pressing cloths 32 machine needles 28 see also boning; buttons; elastic; snaps; pressing darts 92 machine stitches 82–3 trimmings pressing mats 33 pressing mittens 33 3-step zigzag stitch 82 O prick stitch 81 blind hem stitch 83 printed linens 47 buttonhole stitches 83 one-way fabric designs 70, 71, 73 puff sleeves 106 decorative stitches 83 organza 32, 45 locking stitch 82 outside leg, measuring 55 Q overedge stitch 83 overedge foot 28 reverse stitch 82 overedge stitch 83 quilting needles 14 securing the thread 82 serger 30–1 straight stitch 82 R stretch stitch 83 needles 30 zigzag stitch 82 serger foot 30 rayon 49 machine-made buttonholes 125 reading patterns 52–3 machine-stitched hems 118 threading 24 reinforced corners 88 madras 41 serger stitches 30 retractable tapes 18 marking aids 13, 19, 77 serger thread 17 reverse stitch 82 matka 44 ribbon trim 23, 274–5 measurements, body 54–5 P measuring tools 13, 18, 24 fraying, preventing 24 mending and repairs 254–61 pants 202–17 threading 25 milliner’s needles 14 classic palazzo pants 210–15, 296–9 rickrack trim 23 mohair 36, 37 classic tailored pants 204–7, 294–5 round-end buttonhole stitch 83, 125 muslin 39, 42 hooks and eyes 127 run and fell seams 85 toiles 68–9 pattern alterations 57, 66–7 running stitch 81 tapered capri pants 208–9 N wide-leg shorts 216–17 S see also waistlines nap 70, 71, 73 safety pins 12, 15 neatening facings 96–7 paper scissors 21 satin 45 patch pockets 113 scissors and shears bias binding 96 pattern envelopes 52 serged edges 97 pattern paper 25 bent-handled shears 21 pinked edges 97 patterns 50–77, 276–311 cutting shears 12, 20 zigzagged edges 97 embroidery scissors 13, 20 neatening seams 84–5, 86 altering 56–67 paper scissors 21 3-thread serger stitch 85 layout 72–5 pinking shears 21 4-thread serger stitch 85 multisize patterns 53, 56 snips 20 Hong Kong finish 86 pinning the pattern to the fabric 72 trimming scissors 20 pinked edges 84 reading 52–3 seam rippers 13, 21, 256 zigzagged edges 84 single-size patterns 53 seam rolls 32 neck sizes and measurements 54–5 seams bias-bound edges 99 symbols 53, 72, 76 bust seams 60 facings 95, 97–8, 99 toiles 68–9 corners 87–8 measuring 55 see also cutting out curves 60, 88, 89–90 pearl-headed pins 15 pin cushions 12, 15 pinking shears 21 hem finishes 117

319 French seams 85 set-in sleeves 105 tie-neck top 224–5 in-seam pockets 114 slip hem stitch 81 trace bastes 76 layering 89 snaps 22, 127 tracing paper 19, 77 neatening 84–6, 90 snips 20 tracing wheels 19, 77 pattern alterations 60 stitches trimming scissors 20 plain seams 84 trimmings 23 reducing seam bulk 89–90 hand stitches 80–1 run and fell seams 85 machine stitches 82–3 fraying, preventing 24 sheer fabrics 86 securing threads 80, 82 tweed 38 split seams, repairing 258 serger stitches 30 tweezers 24 securing threads 80, 82 unpicking 256 self-threading needles 14 straight stitch 82 U selvage 70, 71 straw needles 14 sequins and beads 270–1 stretch stitch 83 ultra-glide foot 29 sewing gauges 12, 18 striped fabrics 70, 71 understitching seams 90 sewing kit matching 74, 75 unpicking stitches 256 basic kit 12–13 suiting linen 47 emergency kit 24 synthetic fabrics 48–9 V sewing machines 26–7 accessories 28–9 T Velcro™ 22 sharps 14 velour 71 sheer fabrics, seams in 86 T-shirt: flower embellishment 272–3 velvet 42, 71 shirt collar 101–2 taffeta 45 vertical buttonholes 125 shirting 42 tailor’s chalk 19 viscose see rayon shoulders tailor’s ham 33 matching stripes or checks 74 tailor’s bastes 76, 77 W measuring 55 tape makers 25 pattern alterations 64 tape measures 12, 18 waist, measuring 54 toile alterations 68, 69 tapestry needles 14 waistlines shrinkage 70 tartan 38 silk 43–5 tears, mending 258–60 darts 91, 92 silk thread 16 thimbles 13, 25 edges, finishing 103 skirts 130–53 threads 13, 16–17 facings 100 attaching to bodices 93 gathers 93 button-front A-line skirt 136–7 securing (hand stitches) 80 pattern alterations 60–2, 66 classic A-line skirt 132–5, 280–1 securing (machine stitches) 82 straight waistband, attaching 103–4 classic pleated skirt 146–51, 284–5 tangles, preventing 24 toile alterations 68 classic tailored skirt 138–42, 282–3 threading the needle 80 walking foot 29 lengthening a skirt with a contrast band toiles 68–9 warp yarns 70 tools and materials 10–33 water/air-soluble pens 19 264–5 basic sewing kit 12–13 weft yarns 70 matching stripes or checks 74 cutting tools 13, 20–1 wool fabrics 36–8 pattern alterations 57, 60–1, 62–3 marking aids 13, 19 wool worsted 38 tailored evening skirt 143–5 measuring tools 13, 18, 24 topstitched pleated skirt 152–3 needles and pins 12, 13, 14–15 Z turning jeans into a skirt 266–7 notions 13, 22–3 see also waistlines serger 30–1 zigzag stitch 82 sleeves 105–11 pressing aids 13, 32–3 hem finishes 117 bound openings 109 sewing machines and accessories 26–9 neatening facings 97 cuffs 110–11 threads 13, 16–17 neatening seams 84 elasticated sleeve edge 108 useful extras 13, 24–5 faced openings 110 tops 218–35 zipper foot 29 fitted sleeves 65 classic princess-line blouse 228–32, 302–3 zippers 13, 119–22 hems 107 classic shell top 220–3, 300–1 pattern alterations 56, 65 long-sleeved tunic 226–7 broken zipper, repairing 261 puff sleeves 106 short-sleeved blouse 233–5 centered zippers 120 topstitching 90 invisible zippers 122 topstitching thread 17 fly-front zippers 121 lapped zippers 119

320 Acknowledgments about the author Alison Smith trained as an Art and Fashion Textile Teacher before becoming Head of Textiles at one of the largest schools in Birmingham, England. Alison left mainstream teaching to have a family, but missed teaching so much that she soon established the Alison Victoria School of Sewing. The school is now the largest of its kind in the UK, with students attending from all over Europe and beyond. Alison specializes not only in teaching dressmaking but also tailoring and corsetry. In addition to her own school, Alison lectures at various sewing shows across the UK. Alison has brought her passion for sewing to TV, on series such as From Ladette to Lady. Alison lives in Leicestershire with her husband Nigel and has two adult children. Acknowledgments AUTHOR’S ACKNOWLEDGMENTS DK ACKNOWLEDGMENTS No book could ever be written without a little help. I would like to thank DK would like to thank all the people who helped in the creation of this the following people for their help in making all the garments: Jackie book: Alison Shackleton for art direction, and Paula Keogh for skills as Boddy, Averil Wing, Jenny Holdam, Christine Scott, Angela Paine, and sewing technician on the first photo shoot; Jane Ewart for art direction Joan Culver. My darling husband, Nigel, and our children, Kathryn and on the second photo shoot, Ruth Jenkinson and her assistant Carly for Oliver, for all their support and endless cups of tea! Thanks must also go photography, and Rebecca Fallowfield for production assistance. We are to the companies that have continued to support me: Janome UK, Coats immensely grateful to our models Kate and Charlotte. A big thank you Crafts, Fruedenberg-nw, Fabulous Fabric, Simplicity patterns, and MIG. goes out to Bob at MIG for demystifying the art of pattern creation. Thank you to my editors Laura Palosuo—and Hilary Mandleberg, who I Finally, we would like to thank Claire Cross for editorial assistance, think I have inspired to take up sewing again! Angela Baynham for proofreading the book, and Marie Lorimer for creating the index.