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Nov 2021 93 Because there’s never enough time for travelling. Big Thrills and Trails: Little India Always Buzzing, Always Chinatown GShlHainLamoesTsnTht’ehIttast 1

FOREWORD TJhoAOoufurAnseaynd BeginsMiles-Lao Tzu SinWgiStlheAtep

CONTENTS 14 22 Always Buzzing, 04 Always Chinatown 14 22 04 Big Thrills & Trails: Little India The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine

Always AlwBauyszCzihnign,atown 4

CHINATOWN The Historic District of Chinatown comprises four distinct sub-districts: Telok Ayer, Kreta Ayer, Bukit Pasoh and Tanjong Pagar. Together with the other precincts south of the Singapore River, they made up what was known colloquially as the Greater Town (or Da Po) of Singapore. Because of its architectural, historical and social importance, the area was given conservation status on 7 July 1989. Take a walk and learn why this area is cherished by so many Singaporeans! Source: URA Chinatown Trail Brochure 2017 Photos: Afiqah Bte Nazarudin 5

The origin of Chinatown is linked to Sir Stamford Raffles. In 1822, he formed a Town Planning Committee to plan Singapore Town according to ethnic groups. The area south of the Singapore River was allocated by sectors to Chinese and Indian immigrants of the same provincial origin and language groups. The Chinese immigrants came mostly from the south-eastern coastal provinces of China. Hokkiens formed the majority, followed by the Teochews, Cantonese, Hainanese, Hakkas and Foochows. The South Indians also found their niche in this area, though subsequently the centre of Indian commercial and cultural life moved to Serangoon Road. Each group has left its mark on street names and places of worship. “Hokkiens formed the majority, followed by the Teochews, Cantonese, Hainanese, Hakkas and Foochows. “ KRETA AYER The Malay name Kreta Ayer (or Niu Che Shui) comes from the ox-drawn water carts that used to deliver water to the area. In the 19th century, this predominantly Cantonese area was known for round-the-clock entertainment with a concentration of teahouses, opera theatres and brothels. Today it is best known for its Chinese New Year and Mid-Autumn celebrations, street market and bustling atmosphere. 1. Former Great Southern Hotel 70 Eu Tong Sen Street Close up of Sri Mariamma Temple This former hotel was designed by architectural firm Swan & Maclaren and was once regarded as the Raffles Hotel of Chinatown. Popular with high society including celebrities from Hong Kong and China, it was once the tallest building in the area and was the first Chinese hotel in Singapore to boast a lift service. 6

4. Jamae (Chulia) Mosque CHINATOWN 218 South Bridge Road 6. Former Coolie Quarters 37 Pagoda Street Former Great Southern Hotel One of the oldest mosques in Most coolies came from southern Singapore, Jamae Mosque was China in search of better job 2. Former Majestic Theater completed in 1835 by the Chulias prospects but upon arrival were 80 Eu Tong Sen Street who hailed from southern India’s sold off as indentured labourers. Coromandel Coast. It boasts an Those who were not immediately This was originally a Cantonese eclectic mix of Chinese, Anglo- auctioned off were kept in opera house built by philanthropist Indian and Malay architecture, cramped and sordid quarters. This Eu Tong Sen in 1927 for his of which the most significant shophouse is believed to be the wife after she was reportedly feature is its South Indian style former premises of Kwong Hup refused admittance to an opera front entrance comprising of Yuen, one of the most infamous performance elsewhere. A two minarets flanking a coolie firms. highlight of this Art Deco building miniature palace. is its decorated façade of hand- 7. Former Lai Chun Yuen painted tiles depicting opera 5. Sri Mariamman Temple 25 Trengganu Street characters and flying dragons. 242 South Bridge Road Built in 1887, this three-storey 3. Former S.I.T. Established in 1827, this is former theatre building with Government Quarters Singapore’s oldest Hindu unique cantilevering wooden 42 to 50 Mosque Street, 175 to temple. It was founded by balconies was the centre of 189 New Bridge Road and 38 to Narayana Pillay, the Tamil entertainment in Kreta Ayer until it 64 Upper Cross Street pioneer who accompanied was badly damaged during World Raffles to Singapore. The temple War II. Its popularity was such is dedicated to the goddess that surrounding streets were Mariamman and the original colloquially named after the statue of the deity installed by theatre itself; Smith Street was Pillay still stands in its principal Theater Street, Temple Street shrine. This temple gave name to was Theater Rear Street, and Temple Street and Pagoda Street, Trengganu Street was Theater and was gazetted as a National Side Street. Monument in 1973. “Today it is best known for its “ Chinese New Year and Mid-Autumn celebrations, street market and bustling atmosphere. The predecessor to the Housing and Development Board was the Singapore Improvement Trust (SIT), set up in 1927 by the colonial government to solve Singapore’s chronic housing problems. These four-storey reinforced concrete buildings were built in the 1930s to house Customs workers. Take a close look at the timber parapet behind each window; on each are two heart-shaped cut outs. Former Majestic Theater encolved with trees 7

TELOK AYER 8. Eu Yan Sang 9. Clan and Trade Associations 267 to 271 South Ann Siang Road and Club Street Telok Ayer, Malay for Water Bridge Road Bay, is the oldest sub-district. Clan and trade associations It started to develop in the 1820s Built in 1910, this is the first Eu were important institutions for mutual assistance in 19th and and remained as the key Chinese Yan Sang outlet in Singapore early 20th century Singapore as they helped new immigrants commercial district until the late set up by Eu Tong Sen. Besides from China settle down and looked after their welfare. 19th century. The population in this dealing in the retail of traditional Along Ann Siang Road and Club Street are numerous clan area was predominantly Hokkien. Chinese medicine, it used to and trade associations where stepping into one, time seems The area is often associated offer money remittance services to stand still. Some still retain their meeting halls filled with with the laid-back atmosphere of to China. The building was portraits of members from the past and centuryold furniture. Ann Siang Hill, and the religious designed by Alfred Bidwell from Some of these associations can be found at 17 (Ching Yoon buildings along Telok Ayer Street. the firm Swan & Maclaren. He Wooi Kwoon) and 25 Ann Siang Road (Kwong Wai Siew was also responsible for the Li Si She Shut), and 84 Club design of the Raffles Hotel and Street (Nam Sun Wui Kun). Victoria Memorial Hall. “It started to develop in the 1820s and“ remained as the key Chinese commercial district until the late 19th century. Close up of Eu Yan Sang 8

CHINATOWN 13. Al-Abrar Mosque 192 Telok Ayer Street Also known as Kuchu Palli, Tamil for Mosque Hut, it was originally a thatched hut believed to have been erected not long after 1827. The present building was built between 1850 and 1855 and declared a National Monument in 1974. Unlike the Jamae Mosque along South Bridge Road, this mosque is able to conform to the street grid while facing Mecca. 14. Telok Ayer Chinese Methodist Church 235 Telok Ayer Street Shop at Telok Ayer Model posing at Telok Ayer road Designed by Swan & Maclaren and built by a French firm, Bross 10. Siang Cho Keong & Mogin in 1924, this was the 66 Amoy Street first Chinese Methodist Church in Singapore. It features upturned This temple was completed in roof eaves; a reference to 1869 and built in the Hokkien traditional Chinese architecture style, where the ends of the curved and the community that it serves. roof ridge sweeps outwards like In 1989, the church was gazetted swallow tails and the clay roof as a National Monument. tiles are not glazed. Its foundation plaque records that it was located 12. Thian Hock Keng on this site because of its good 158 Telok Ayer Street feng shui (geomancy) properties as it used to front the sea and This is one of Singapore’s oldest behind it stands Ann Siang Hill. and most important temple for immigrants from southern China’s 11. Nagore Dargah Indian Fujian province. Completed in Muslim Heritage Centre 1842 and standing on what used 140 Telok Ayer Street to be the shoreline, it is dedicated to the worship of Ma Zu Po, Originally known as Shahul the Goddess of the Sea. While Hamid Durgha and dedicated to most of the building materials the memory of a holy man, Shahul came from China, the temple Hamid of Nagore, the former incorporates cast-iron railings shrine was built by Chulias from from Scotland and tiles from southern India between 1828 England and Holland. In 1973, and 1830. On the upper part it was gazetted as a National of the façade are niches, where Monument. Its restoration in 2001 oil lamps can be placed within gained an honorable mention them to illuminate the building on from UNESCO. festive days. It was gazetted as a National Monument in 1974. 9 .

BUKIT PASOH Bukit Pasoh was developed at the turn of the 20th century as an extension of the already densely populated Telok Ayer and Kreta Ayer areas. Its name means Pot Hill in Malay, referring to its origins as a place where earthen pots were made. Its charm lies in its gently sloping and curving streets fronted by shophouses that house a mixture of institutional and commercial activities. 15. Poon Yue Association 281 New Bridge Road The association was founded in 1879 at Upper Cross Street with Carpark on top of People’s Park Centre financial assistance from Hoo Ah Kay, a well known community leader from Whampoa district in Guangdong province. The association “ relocated to New Bridge Road in 1917. The building is a hybrid of Neo-Classical and Art Deco styles which were popular with Chinese Bukit Pasoh was developers in the past who wanted to project a modern image. To the developed at the Chinese, New Bridge Road was colloquially referred to as Da Po Er Ma turn of the 20th Lu, Mandarin for Greater Town’s Second Road. The first road referred to in this instance was South Bridge Road. century as an extension of the 16. Sri Layan Sithi Vinayagar Temple already densely 73 Keong Saik Road populated Telok Ayer and Kreta This Hindu temple was built in 1925 by Nattukkottai Chettiars, a noted money lending community from Tamil Nadu and dedicated to Ganesha, Ayer areas. the elephantheaded god. It is an important stop for the annual Silver Chariot Procession where the deity Murugan is taken on a procession from the Sri Thendayuthapani Temple in Tank Road. The temple was given the name Layan Sithi as it was originally located at the old Sepoy Lines where Indian soldiers, known as Sepoys, used to be housed. “ Residents on top of People’s Park Centre 10

CHINATOWN Lucky Chinatown encolved by trees Busy road in Chinatown 19. Ee Hoe Hean Club 43 Bukit Pasoh Road 17. Kong Chow Wui Koon The club was founded in 1895 Bee Cheng Hiang building 321 New Bridge Road by a group of Hokkien community leaders for the wealthy Chinese This Cantonese clan association elite. More than a social and was established in 1839 at Upper business club, its members were Chin Chew Street and moved actively involved in the political in 1924 to the present building, development of China in the early designed by Westerhout & Oman. 20th century. It supported the During the Japanese Occupation, 1911 Xinhai Revolution which the custodians volunteered the overthrew the Qing Dynasty, building as a clinic and hence its leading to the establishment of the antique interiors remained intact. Republic of China. During World The association is well known War II, it was the headquarters of for its lion dance troupe and the anti-Japanese China Salvation martial arts. This is one of Movement in Southeast Asia. The Chinatown’s first community ground floor Pioneers’ Gallery is museums and entry is free. open for visit and entry is free. 18. Cundhi Gong 20. Chin Kang Huay Kuan 13 Keong Saik Road 29 Bukit Pasoh Road This association was estab This was founded in 1928 lished in 1918 by immigrants for the worship of the 18-arm from Jinjiang County in southern Cundhi Bodhisattva. It is a Fujian, China. The current purpose-built temple built in the building contrasts with its ornately Nanyang style which is a hybrid decorated neighbours. The use between Chinese and shophouse of straight lines, concrete ledges architecture. On the roof ridge, cut and mild steel framed windows porcelain pieces are used to form is typical of the Modern style that dragons, phoenixes, birds and was popular from the 1950s to flowers. The timber trusses over the early 1970s. During World the five-foot way feature traditional War II, the building was used by paintings and its exterior walls are the Overseas Chinese General adorned with hand-painted tiles. Mobilisation Council which helped the British in supplying labourers and volunteers for the defence of Singapore. 11

“The building was built in 1903 TANJONG PAGAR by the Municipal Council as the 21. Jinrikisha Station administration centre for rickshows, a 1 Neil Road form of transportation imported from The building was built in 1903 Japan via Shanghai in by the Municipal Council as the 1880s. the administration centre for rickshaws, a form of transportation imported from Japan via Shanghai in the 1880s. It is of the Edwardian style, where the exposed brickwork is contrasted with white plaster mouldings. Look out for the crest of the Municipal Council at the front of the building, featuring a lion standing on an island with a palm tree. “ “ 22. Former Jing Hwa Cinema 1 Tanjong Pagar Road Together with the Majestic and the Oriental, Jing Hwa Cinema, built in 1958, was one of Chinatown’s three famous cinemas. It was designed by local architect Wong Foo Nam in the Modern style and was the first to have a basement carpark and extensive floor-to-ceiling windows. It is remembered fondly by many as the venue of romantic first dates and holiday treats. “ It is remembered fondly by many as the venue of romantic first dates and holiday treats. Former Jing Hwa Cinema 12

CHINATOWN Jinrikisha Station 13

BAingdTThrrailillss: Little India 14

LITTLE INDIA The distinctive Little India precinct melds the old with the new, hosting trades from the past beside modern businesses, old conserved shophouses next to high rise buildings. In this precinct, you can find flower garland vendors next to restaurants serving both traditional and fusion meals, small traditional businesses alongside multi- storey departmentalstores. And these are just some ways in which the precinct retains aspects of its history within today’s modern context. Source: NHB Little India Trail Booklet 2018 Photos: Afiqah Bte Nazarudin 15

It is interesting to note that Little India was never designated “ “This self-guided trail by Sir Stamford Raffles as an area for the Indian community. This is unlike Chinatown or Kampong Gelam, consists of a Trail Booklet, which were designated for the Chinese and the Malays a Trail Map and onsite respectively in the Raffles Town Plan of 1823. Before Little Trail Markers. India got its current name in the 1970s-80s, it was just known as Serangoon, after one of the earliest roads in Singapore and indicated as the “road leading across the island” on an 1828 map. Buffalo road duing Deepavali Through the Little India Heritage Trail, discover how this once swampy, rural area transformed itself into the colourful and culturally diverse precinct of today. This self-guided trail consists of a Trail Booklet, a Trail Map and onsite Trail Markers. The Trail Booklet provides a history of the area, as well as information about the places of heritage, social and cultural interest. The accompanying Trail Map offers three thematic sub-trails with translations in Mandarin, Malay and Tamil while the Trail Markers showcase old photographs of the site along with further infor- mation. We hope you enjoy your journey! TRAIL 1: SERANGOON IN THE 1900s 40 Minutes The early 20th century was a defining period that shaped today’s Little India as migrants from India, China and Britain settled in the area and established a diversity of trades and institutions. Follow this trail and explore the rich history of the Little India precinct. Begin your journey at the Indian Heritage Centre and obtain an overview of the history of the Indian community in Singapore. Then walk down Serangoon Road and cross over to Kerbau Road, whose name refers to the buffaloes that were kept here in the 1900s. Mural traditional Trades of Little India by Psyfool 16

Turn around and walk towards Former house of Tan Teng Niah LITTLE INDIA Belilios Lane where you will spot the large mural Traditional Continuing along Race Course Along Hampshire Road beside Trades of Little India by Psyfool. Road, keep a lookout on the left the field, you will see the Former Continue towards Belilios for a small unnamed street where Kandang Kerbau Hospital (now Road and turn right to the Sri you will encounter the origins of the Land Transport Authority Veeramakaliamman Temple this road name in the form of a building) which served as general which was built as a shrine by mural entitled A Ride Through hospital in the 1900s. In the Tamil workers from the lime pits Race Course Road by Jaxton Su. background, you can also in this area. From here, turn left The Former Racecourse was at spot the distinctive shape of the onto Serangoon Road and left the location of the current Farrer new KK Women’s and Children’s again onto Race Course Lane. Park Field just opposite. Hospital building. If you are hungry or wish to rest At Race Course Lane, you will your feet, walk straight down to encounter a number of Chinese Tekka Centre, which is the new Clan Associations which were incarnation of the Tekka Market established to provide social and that was once located across the economic support for Chinese road and considered the “people’s immigrants from the same clans. market”. Here you can enjoy local Turn left onto Race Course Road hawker fare, or purchase fresh and you will come across the meat to cook at home. Then it’s Foochow Methodist Church a short walk to Little India MRT at the corner of Rotan Lane. station for a ride home. The church was established in 1897 as a Christian mission for working class immigrants from Foochow, China, such as rickshaw pullers and coolies. “Follow this trail and explore the rich history of the Little India precinct. “ Festival of Lights during Deepavali Tekka Centre in the day 17

Close up of Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple Sculpture from Indian Heritage Centre Start off at the beautiful Abdul Walk up Veerasamy Road and Gafoor Mosque at Dunlop Street across Serangoon Road to the TRAIL 2: WALK OF FAITHS which is one of Singapore’s Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 1 Hour oldest mosques and a National which was originally built Monument. You may wish to enter as a shrine by Tamil workers The Little India precinct the mosque for a visit and if so, do from the lime pits in this area. contains a great number remember to dress respectfully and Another Hindu temple and and diversity of religious take off your shoes. the only North Indian temple spaces. These institutions span in Singapore, the Shree across all the major ethnic and From here, head down Perak Lakshminarayan Temple is religious groups in Singapore. Road to the Anglican Church located down the next street at This trail provides insights of the True Light which catered into different religious spaces, mainly to Chinese trishaw riders Chander Road. architecture and practices found during its beginnings. At the end in Singapore.(Note: Most of of Perak Road, turn left onto Upper Then venture up Rotan Lane to these institutions are open to Weld Road and then right to view the Foochow Methodist the public but be sure to follow Kampong Kapor Road. Here you Church which developed from any instructions on appropriate will see the architecturally different a mission started in 1897 for behaviour and clothing.) Kampong Kapor Methodist Church working class immigrants from which started around the Foochow, China. After this, sametime but catered to the Straits walk back down to Serangoon Chinese or Peranakans. Road and head towards the Angullia Mosque to take a look at its conserved 19th century entrance gatehouse. “The Little India precinct contains a great number and diversity of religious spaces. “ Siddh Peeth Shree Lakshminarayan Temple 18

LITTLE INDIA Along the same road, you will encounter yet another National Monument, the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple, with its intricately carved gopuram (entrance tower) depicting a story from Hindu mythology. Further down the road is the Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman Temple with its stepped vimana (pyramid-shape tower over the main shrine) adorned with Hindu deities. Next head up Beatty Road on to Race Course Road to view two Buddhist temples built in a completely different style. The Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple, popularly known as the “Temple of a Thousand Lights”, houses a monumental 15-metre tall Buddha statue while the Leong San See Temple, meaning “Dragon Mountain Temple”, is dedicated to Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. “This trail provides insights into different religious spaces, architecture and practices found in Singapore. “ Close up of Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 19

TRAIL 3: SHOP TILL Indian Food YOU DROP! 30 Minutes (not inclusive of “Little India is home to may traditional shopping time) businesses that offer experiences that Little India is home to many cannot be found anywhere traditional businesses that offer else in Singapore. experiences that cannot be found “ elsewhere in Singapore. This trail offers a chance to try authentic Indian food, purchase traditional clothing and hunt for bargains at various shops in this area. Start along Campbell Lane and experience the kaleidoscope of sights, sounds and smells along this street. You can visit the Little India Arcade and enjoy some Indian sweets or have a henna design drawn on your hands. Or you can head to the Jothi Store & Flower Shop where locals shop for everyday Indian goods ranging from incense sticks to copper utensils. One street down at Dunlop Street is Haniffa Textiles which is famous for its saris and Indian clothing, and further down Serangoon Road is where you will find Komala Vilas, an Indian vegetarian fast-food restaurant established in 1947. Try their refreshing lassi or have a meal here if you’re hungry! 20 Little India Arcarde on a sunny day

After your break, walk down the five-foot way (or covered pedestrian LITTLE INDIA walkway) along Serangoon Road and enjoy a variety of traditional and modern shops selling everything from clothes to knick-knacks. Feel free to stop and pick up a bargain or just window-shop along this stretch. Ahead you will see the expansive Mustafa Centre, Singapore’s first 24-hour department store which offers everything from diamonds, watches, electronics, clothing, confectionery and fresh foods. Shop to your heart’s content here, and when you start to feel tired, head across the road to Ananda Bhavan, Singapore’s oldest Indian vegetarian restaurant, for a snack or meal. “This trail offers a chance to try“ authentic Indian food, purchase traditional clothing and hunt for bargains at varioud shops in this area. Jothi’s Store and Flower Shop Beautiful jewellery in the shops Decorations found in Jothi’s Store and Flower Shop 21

The ThGaLtolHasatmsInts’t Shine 22

ARAB STREET The story of Kampong Glam began in 1819 when Sir Stamford Raffles (1781–1826) established a treaty between the British East India Company, Temenggong Abdul Rahman (d. 1825) and Sultan Hussein (1776–1835) to set up a trading post in Singapore. Source: NHB Kampong Glam Trail 3 Brochure Photos: Afiqah Bte Nazarudin 23

Did you know that the stretch of Bussorah Street near Masjid Sultan “Sultan Gate was once known as Kampong Kaji (Pilgrim Village) and the stretch nearer Beach Road was Kampong Tembaga (Copper Village)? Or was lined with that Arab Street was called Jawa Koi (Java Street) by the Chinese and blacksmiths and Pookadai sadakku (flower street) by the Tamils? Sultan Gate was lined Baghdad Street with with blacksmiths and Baghdad Street with diamond craftsmen and diamond craftsmen traders. Where a car park now stands along Kandahar Street, there was the Pondok Java which housed Javanese migrants and was famed and traders. for the Javanese theatre and arts performances it used to host. “ These are just some of the stories behind Kampong Glam’s streets and lanes. Steeped in history, culture and memories, Kampong Glam is one of Singapore’s most colourful districts. It was where the Malay royalty once resided, and where one of the most significant and important mosques in the country, Masjid Sultan, is located. It was where many diverse communities, such as the Javanese, Sumatrans, Baweanese, Banjarese, Arabs, Chinese and Indians once called home. Though Kampong Glam is no longer a residential area today, these communities have left their mark in different ways, from the buildings in the area and long-time businesses to vernacular place names. Street leading to Sultan Mosque 24

ARAB STREET MALAY HERITAGE CENTRE . 85 Sultan Gate In 1897, the court decided in a Vintage plates with traditional design The building housing the centre dispute between members of the was once the residence of royal family that the Kampong Malay royalty in Singapore Glam property belonged to the and also referred to as “Istana Crown. An ordinance was then Kampong Gelam” (Kampong enacted by the British government Gelam Palace). It was preceded in 1904 to provide an incomefor by at least two istana buildings Sultan Hussein’s descendants. which were part of a larger The building continued to serve walled compound that has been as a residence for the family. For referred to as the kota raja a period of time during the 20th (royal citadel). century, it even housed a club, Kota Raja Club, which regularly The first istana in the compound, organised leisure activities for the a large timber palace with community in Kampong Glam. attap roofs, was completed in 1819. Sultan Hussein stayed In 1999, the government “ there for some years before announced plans to develop a moving to Melaka, where he Malay Heritage Centre, which Steeped in passed away in 1835. His would involve conserving and history, culture son, Tunku Ali (1825–1877) redeveloping Istana Kampong and memories, returned to Singapore in 1840 Glam and the adjacent Gedung Kampong Glam and commissioned the current Kuning. This required the building, which combines residents to relocate and a is one of traditional Malay new scheme of payment to the Singapore’s most motifs with the Palladian style beneficiaries was introduced. colourful districts. – a style derived from the Restoration works were “ architecture of Italian architect undertaken and the Malay Andrea Palladio (1508-1580) Heritage Centre opened in June which was popular in England 2005. Further renovations were in the 18th and 19th centuries. carried out between 2011 and 2012 and the redeveloped centre For years, the British refused was launched in September to acknowledge Tunku Ali as 2012 by the Prime Minister of sultan. In 1855, the Governor of the Straits Settlements Singapore, Mr Lee Hsien Loong. William Butterworth (1801– 1856) negotiated a treaty between Tunku Ali and Ibrahim (d. 1865), son of the late Temenggong. Ali acquired the title of Sultan and received a fixed allowance from the government, while acknowledging Ibrahim as the ruler of Johor with the exception of Muar. When Sultan Ali passed away in 1877, his eldest son, Tungku Alam (d. 1891), was not recognised by the British as Sultan. However, the Malay community organised a ceremony in 1879 proclaiming him as “Sultan Ala’u’din Alam Shah al Mulak (Ruler of) Johore and Muar”. 25

ARAB STREET “A busy commercial area, Arab Street has“ Arab Street is one of the few been attracting traders and entrepreneurs streets in Kampong Glam that has retained its original name from places such as present-day from the early 1800s. It was probably named as such as the Indonesia, India, China and the Middle area was designated for the Arab community in the 1822 town plan East since its early days. of Singapore. Shops selling incense Shops selling Batik Colourful sculptures found at the Kampong Glam 26

ARAB STREET Wall art in the alleyways of Arab Street Shop houses in Kampong Glam The community here, however, has always been diverse. A busy commercial area, Arab Street has been attracting traders and entrepre- neurs from places such as present-day Indonesia, India, China and the Middle East since its early days. They started businesses ranging from eating houses, rattan shops and goldsmiths to textile shops, money changers, bookshops and printing presses. Today, a number of shops on this street, such as H. Hashim bin H. Abdullah, a bookstore opened in the early 1900s, are still run by the descendants of pioneers who came here decades ago. To locals, this road was more commonly referred to as Kampong Java by the Malays or Jawa koi (Java Street) by the Chinese. For a long time, Arab Street was largely populated by the Javanese. They were engaged in various occupations such as running eating houses and food stalls, and selling goods such as fruit and Javanese leaf cigarettes. Javanese women also set up stalls to sell flowers along the five foot way, giving rise to the Tamil nickname, pookadei sadakku (flower street). Over time, however, the Javanese presence gradually diminished in this area due to factors such as the redevelopment of Kampong Glam, leading to resettlement of the original residents. Shops selling colourful coasters Cat resting on the streets of Kampong Glam 27

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