Issue No3 Winter 2019 EnglishADVENTUREEDUCATION w w w.saasfeeguides.com N AT U R E
2 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019EDITORIAL Cover: Puzzle Media First powder day of the season. Saas-Fee, 2nd October 2018. Patrick Gasser Editor Saas-Fee Guides MagazineTRACES OF CHANGE made use of this new infrastructure over generations of freeriders. Jérémie2018 enters the Saas Valley history the last two summers. The value that this Heitz’ movie 'La Liste' made him one ofbooks as a year of extremes; the valley wooden structure has added to tourism the best-known freeriders in the world.experienced its snowiest winter in in the valley is enormous. However, The twenty-nine-year-old from theseventy years, followed by the driest, the in-kind contribution made by Saas- Lower Valais skied fifteen of the Alps’warmest summer since records began Fee Guides doesn't come easy; in the legendary northern walls, includingmore than 150 years ago. The region’s summer of 2018 alone, the mountain that of the Lenzspitze above Saas-many barbecue areas remained off- guides spent more than 250 working Fee. His arcing turns at more than 100limits all summer, as the drought hours on maintaining the ladder. kilometres per hour on slopes withresulted in a total fire-ban. Meanwhile, inclines of up to fifty-five-degrees, trulythe roar of glacial meltwater continued One of the architects and caretakers of changed what was considered possibleday and night for months on end. Across the ‘Mausetreppe’ is mountain-guide in modern skiing. Experienced guidesSwitzerland, glaciers lost two and a half Dominik Gnos. At sixty-eight-years- Aldo Lomatter and Beat Supersaxopercent of their total volume. That’s 1.4 old, when others might consider taking couldn’t believe what they were seeing.billion cubic metres of ice melted in just a step back, Gnos spent much of his Nevertheless, this pair of experienceda few weeks. summer repairing the ladder on the Saas-Fee Guides mountain guides also route to the Allalinhorn, with enviable skied the mighty northeast face of theIt's not just the figures that make it clear zeal. \"Work keeps you young... as long as Lenzspitze themselves more than fourtythat things are changing. Our guides you enjoy it,” explains the Uri-native. He years ago, on old-fashioned straightactually see the changes in their day- came to Saas-Fee in 1970 as a twenty- skis.to-day work. The glacial retreat on year-old seasonal worker, and ended upthe Allalinhorn and the Weissmies, for settling for good. He has helped shape The fact that guests and locals alikeexample, poses significant challenges Saas-Fee as a destination over the past have their hands on this third editionfor the Saas-Fee Guides. Since the five decades, experiencing changes in of the Saas-Fee Guides Magazinesummer of 2017, a twelve-metre high, tourism as well as in the climate. Reason is largely thanks to our advertisers.two-and-a-half-metre wide ladder has aplenty to dedicate a feature to this kind Without their financial support, thehad to be installed on the ‘normal route’ soul of Saas-Fee. In our profile on Gnos, production of this publication wouldn’tto the summit of the Allalinhorn. It’s we also learn how the Saas Valley’s be possible. And so, once again, a bigin place to ensure that the mountain glaciers were actually still growing in thank you to all who have supported theretains its reputation as an ‘easy four- the not-so-distant past. magazine and allowed us to share thethousander’. Thanks to the so-called many remarkable features of our unique‘Mausetreppe’, climbers can easily scale In this issue, you can also read about valley.the bergschrund, even in the middle of the disparate experiences of twosummer. Thousands of climbers have
3Photo: Puzzle Media CONTENTSLooking out over the sea of fog to the Bernese Alps –the view from Mittelallalin. Saas-Fee, October 2018. Escape The Ordinary 6 The King Of Routes 12 Saas-Fee's Gentle Guardian 16 IFMGA Accredited Mountain Guides: Recognised The World Over 22 Five Freeride Gems Not To Be Missed 26 The Next Generation 28 Gear Guide 32 The Science Of Snow 34 A Force Of Nature 40 The key to staying safe 44 Saas Valley mountain rescue station 46 The Evolution of Beasts 52 The Free-heel Revival 56 Pushing The Limits 62 Cold Smoke 66 About Us 71LAYOUT & GRAPHICS PHOTOS & PHOTO EDITING PRINT adam PUZZLE MEDIAahhowardgdGrafik www.ahgd.ch Design
Photo: Puzzle MediaAfter five dry months, snow finally settles on theStellihorn. October 2nd 2018.“The measure of success is happiness andpeace of mind.” Bobby Davro (1959), English actor and comedian
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6 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019 ESCAPE THE ORDINARY Leave the hectic pace of everyday life further behind with every step: a ski through the glacial world of the Saas Valley soothes the soul. The reward for successfully summiting the Fluchthorn? A descent of more than 2,000 metres through pristine terrain. Photos: Puzzle Media, Peter Novotny, Falk David, Patrick Gasser Text: Patrick Gasser Translation: Danielle Moore & Adam Spensley Only a few metres separate Robert, thirty-four, and Jennifer, thirty-two, from those tourists who visit Mittelallalin's revolving restaurant in their hundreds. And yet the pair are with mountain guide Peter Novotny, fifty-three, in another world entirely. The Metro Alpin railway takes visitors from Felskinn at 3,000 metres above sea level to Mittelallalin, the highest station in Saas-Fee. In the middle of the tunnel that it climbs, there is a hidden stop. Stollenloch, where workers deposited the material they excavated while constructing the tunnel in the 1980s, now serves as the starting point for a number of ski tours. But the train only stops on request for groups travelling with a mountain guide, and only when avalanche risk allows. Robert, Jennifer, and Peter reach the edge of the Hohlaub Glacier at the end of the narrow tunnel.
ESCAPE THE ORDINARY 7 Main: The descent from the Fluchthorn to Saas- Almagell is over 2,000 metres vertical.
8 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019SKITOUR ALLALIN PASS \"The stunningA popular alternative to the outlined descents onFluchthorn tour goes over the AllalinPass. Although it doesn't quite lead to a pristine slopes aresummit, the solid two-hour ascent does even more amazingoffer its own scenic descent of 2,000 when you’ve had tometres down to Täsch in the MatterValley. Of course, the main protagonist of work for them,\"the breathtaking Allalin Pass panorama,right at the foot of the Rimpfischhorn, Peter Novotny, mountain guideis the Matterhorn. This descent leadspast secluded mountain hunting lodgesadorned with gnarled wooden benches,perfect for leisurely lunch breaks. And,finally, it follows a forest road down toTäsch.WINTERY CONTRASTS But once you get involved and learnThe views afforded at Stollenloch are to take each moment as it comes, youstaggering, even for the experienced end up loving every second. Incrediblemountain guide. The blue sky contrasts descents on pristine powder fields arewith the snow-blanketed glacial even more amazing when you’ve hadlandscape and picturesque peaks like to work for them,\" says their mountainthe Stellihorn. As we move towards guide.it, today's destination emerges in thedistance: the Fluchthorn. Followinga short descent to Anfellplatz on theHohlaub glacier, the route continues onto the far end of the Hohlaub ridge, andonwards to one of the main descents.Due to its unique location, with cloudsaccumulating on surrounding peaks, thearea is guaranteed a constant supplyof fresh snow. As a rule, the glaciercrevasses have sufficiently stable snowbridges from mid-February. But ski toursto the Fluchthorn can be possible asearly as January when especially snowywinters produce the right conditions.Due to a steady, more gradual ascentthan most surrounding peaks, theFluchthorn is an ideal first summit forbeginners. Robert and Jennifer havefairly little ski touring experience; aftera few days freeriding and venturing outfor some shorter climbs with the Saas-Fee Guides, the couple from Newcastledecided to go for their first longer skitour. \"The fascination of ski touring isdifficult for outsiders to understand.
ESCAPE THE ORDINARY 9 PURE RELAXATION The British couple follows in step behind Peter, pushing their feet forward, the snow crunching under their skis. Snowflakes sparkle in the sun; \"this is pure relaxation,\" says Jennifer. Almost three and a half hours of climbing later, via Hohlaub and the Allalin Glaciers, the trio reaches the cross on the 3,790-metre-high summit of the Fluchthorn. The resulting 2,000-metre- descent to Saas-Almagell boasts wonderful panoramic views over the Saas mountains GOOD TO KNOW and the finest powder snow. Altogether, For beginners, a complete set of touring on the Fluchthorn is an undeniably equipment including skis, tour bindings, welcome escape from everyday life. and skins is available for rental in the Saas Valley. In addition, Saas-Fee Guides requires that all participants wear a climbing harness and carry an avalanche set consisting of a shovel and probe, and carry an avalanche transceiver on their person. Fluchthorn tour prices start at CHF 260.- per person. Allalin Pass ski tours are available from CHF 310.- per person. Further Information: www.saasfeeguides.com info@saasfeeguides.ch +41 27 957 44 64 Saas-Fee Guides AG Obere Dorfstrasse 53 3906 Saas-Fee SwitzerlandLEFT PAGETop: After a two-hour ascentcomes the reward. A descentwhich drops 2,000 metres to Täsch,Matter Valley. The Rimpfischhornis just one of many awe-inspiringfour-thousanders to stand amongthe mountain range.Middle: A tour to the 3,790-me-tre-high Fluchthorn makes theperfect first summit for beginnersBottom: Fantastic scenery on theway to the Fluchthorn.RIGHT PAGETop: Done! The Fluchthorn summitcoss.Bottom: Those who earn thedescent for themselves enjoy it allthe more
10 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019 Photo: Puzzle Media Victor de le Rue and Fredi Kalbermatten “All our dreams can come true, if we putting in the work whilst filming for have the courage to ‘Frozen Mind’ (Ivresse Films). Saas-Fee pursue them.” February 2018 Walter Elias Disney (1901 - 1966), American cartoonist and film producer
Rider: Aurélien Ducroz ESCAPE THE ORDINARY 11Photo: Eric GachetYOUR RENTAL EXPERT FOR MOUNTAIN SPORTS EQUIPMENT+41 27 957 14 40 │ zurbriggensport@bluewin.ch
12 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019THE KING OFROUTESFor many, the famous Haute Route between Saas-Fee and Chamonix is theultimate ski tour. And with Saas-Fee Guides, the adventure comes to life: joinus on a journey along the main Alpine ridge..Photos: Reinhard ZeiterText: Patrick GasserTranslation: Danielle Moore & Adam SpensleyI t was the British who, in the could share ideas. It was members of ANTICIPATION AND AWE nineteenth century, first took that Alpine Club who first established There are now several common variations up the pastime we now call the high-level route, the now legendary of the Haute Route to suit different goals:mountaineering. The fortunate few route between Chamonix and Saas-Fee. summiting the most peaks possible,born into the newfound wealth of the Today, that route still retains every bit of finding the best ski descents, or combiningIndustrial Revolution were looking its original fascination and is typically the two. The most popular starting pointfor new ways to spend their time and enjoyed as a springtime ski tour. In that is Argentière, a small village not far frommoney. The Alps drew them in, and soon respect, the French also did pioneering the French mountaineering Mecca ofenough there was a veritable contest to work here. In 1903, Michel Payot led Chamonix. During spring in Argentière,log the first ascents of its many peaks. the first ski group through the glaciated the tour-goers' anticipation is palpable.Local shepherds and farmers, like Saas- landscape of the Western Alps during Some seem so daunted by the hard weekFee's Alexander Burgener, became winter. Thus, the ‘High-Level Route,’ ahead that they struggle at first. But as theyrespected mountain guides and led almost 200 kilometres of trail set in the progress, and the mountains grow aroundthem through the mountains. In 1857, a midst of some of the highest mountains them, the worries melt away. And by thegroup of British mountaineers founded in the Alps, became known by its French time they reach the first descent, from thethe Alpine Club, generally considered name, the ‘Haute Route.’ Grands Montets on the Argentière Glacier,the world's first mountaineering club, the high spirits have always returned.as a place where like-minded people The majestic view of Mont Blanc and the
THE KING OF ROUTES 13 LEFT PAGE Main: The legendary Haute Route takes in some of the highest mountains in the Western Alps. Here, we see part of the day tour from the Vignettes Hut to Pigne d'Arolla. RIGHT PAGE Top: You can take on the Haute Route from Saas- Fee to Chamonix on touring skins, and witness the morning sun kiss the Strahlhorn as you complete the first leg over the Adlerpass to Zermatt. Middle: The first leg of the Haute Route leads guests through the village of Argentière towards the Trient Hut. Bottom: A highlight to remember: a deep powder descent from the Britannia Hut, above Saas-Fee, towards Lake Mattmark.Grandes Jorasses ahead is irresistible. practical clothes is plenty, and anything HAUTE ROUTE WITH SAAS-FEE GUIDES beyond the essentials, like elaborate Would you like to go on your very ownBACK TO BASICS camera equipment, quickly becomes a adventure? The Saas-Fee Guides offerTouring the Haute Route is an incredible burden. Haute Route tours customized to guests'experience. Provided you have good individual requirements. In order tostamina and physical fitness that is. The BRITANNIA HUT, THE HUB concentrate on individual needs, theseseven-day tour is divided into five to Guests sleep well when they arrive, tours do not cater for large groups –six-hour daily stages and each involves exhausted, at a wonderfully cozy mountain we permit a maximum of six peoplesignificant climbs. \"It’s important to focus hut such as the Dix Hut, the Vignettes Hut, per group. Our mountain guides are allon the absolute essentials,\" says Reinhard or Saas-Fee's Britannia Hut. The latter, built highly-trained and qualified.Zeiter. The forty-eight-year-old mountain in 1912 close to Felskinn gondola station,guide is a regular on the Haute Route and is like the gateway back to civilization Further Information:has the job of guiding Saas-Fee Guides’ after seven days ski touring on the king ofguests. When he meets his ski tourers, they all routes. \"If you want to experience the www.saasfeeguides.comtend to have already made their biggest true Haute Route, choose Saas-Fee asmistake back at home. Essentially, carrying your destination or starting point,\" says hut info@saasfeeguides.chtoo much in your backpack makes things manager Dario Andenmatten.more difficult in the long run. One set of +41 27 957 44 64 Saas-Fee Guides AG Obere Dorfstrasse 53 3906 Saas-Fee Switzerland
14 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019 “If you don’t do it this year, you will be one year older when you do.” Warren Miller (1924 - 2018), American ski and snowboard film director Photo: Puzzle Media Frederik Kalbermatten leaves his signature on Fiesch.
THE KING OF ROUTES 15
16 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019SAAS-FEE'SGENTLEGUARDIAN As a child, he dreamed of being a train driver. But aged twenty, Dominik Gnos came to Saas-Fee, leaving behind his native canton of Uri. As both the head of piste and rescue services, and as a mountain guide, he has played a role in shaping the destination for almost fifty years. Even so, he is far from retiring: \"Work keeps you young,\" says the sixty-eight-year-old. Photos: Puzzle Media, Archive Dominik Gnos, Peter Novotny Text: Patrick Gasser Translation: Danielle Moore & Adam Spensley
SAAS-FEE'S GENTLE GUARDIAN 17Bottom: In 1972, at just I t’s a peaceful September morning, of seven siblings, he initially did antwenty-two years old, Dominik Gnos, sixty-eight, trudges apprenticeship as a metal locksmithGnos became the head along on crampons at a leisurely at the Swiss Federal Railways (SBB).of piste and rescue pace, setting off from the Metro Alpin top He later completed military serviceservices, a post he held station and heading in the direction of and eventually made the ratheruntil 1994. Allalinhorn. The sound of his footsteps is spontaneous decision go and work in especially conspicuous against the calm. a ski resort for a winter season. He puts one foot in front of the other, moving like clockwork at a pace which FIVE DECADES IN SAAS-FEE might seem a bit comfortable at first, but Though he started out as a seasonal turns out to be truly impressive some worker, over a period of nearly fifty hours later. Even more so when he stops years, Gnos has come to have a huge to gesture around at the surrounding influence on the village of Saas-Fee, peaks, a smile firmly planted on his face, despite generally remaining behind and not a single sign of breathlessness. the scenes. It was partly thanks to More than a few of the guests Gnos Marie-Rose that he didn’t return home leads through the Saas mountains are as originally planned in the spring of forty years his junior. And even they are 1971. Gnos met his wife-to-be just a grateful when he stops halfway through month after his arrival. \"We first met at the ascent to tell an anecdote or two. a curling tournament. We got talking and got to know each other over the HE DREAMED OF DRIVING TRAINS winter,\" recalls Gnos. Since she didn't Gnos arrived in Saas-Fee back in want to leave Saas-Fee, Gnos took 1970, aged twenty, looking to explore the decision to stay. The two married new horizons. By that point, people in 1974 and later became parents to from his village, Silenen, in the canton two sons. In the meantime, Gnos had of Uri, had already made a name for successfully completed his mountain themselves in the Saas Valley as guide training. \"I was incredibly proud piste patrollers. Ten years prior, upon of my achievement,\" suddenly, his completion of the Lake Göscheneralp dream job of being a train driver had dam in 1960, a number of local given way to a new desire. And he still construction workers had moved relishes his role as a mountain guide to the Saas Valley to work on the today; despite reaching retirement age Mattmark dam. When its construction in 2015, he still guides guests around was temporarily suspended due to the Allalinhorn and the Alphubel. Two harsh winter conditions, many of the years ago, he and his team dug out the Uri-natives started to work on the Alphubel summit cross from under four cable car systems instead. metres of snow, and rebuilt it. \"It was my way of saying thanks for how lucky So Gnos was following a well-trodden I've been,\" said Gnos. path to Saas-Fee, but his story is unique: \"I had always wanted to be a train driver\" says Gnos. The eldest
18 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019THE EVER-CHANGING GLACIERBack when he was just twenty-two, in 1972, Gnos became thehead of piste and rescue services, a post he held until 1994.In that time, a lot changed in Saas-Fee: \"In the beginning,we only had three snowcats and many of the lifts we havenow didn't even exist yet,\" he says. His biggest professionalachievement in his term in office was opening the Metro Alpin;since Christmas 1984, the highest underground train in theworld has been used to transport guests to the Mittelallalinstation at 3,500 metres above sea level. Eventually, the FeeGlacier lifts were built. Throughout the years, Gnos has beenwell placed to notice the effects of climate change.Glacial retreat \"I’m privileged to be inhasn’t always such good shape still atbeen the major my age. So I just want toproblem for theresort’s managers make the most of it.\"that it is today. Dominik Gnos, mountain guideOne challengecurrently being faced is the constant steepening of thePanoramahang, the vital piste which connects the Mittelallalinski area to Morenia at the core of the ski resort, caused bythe retreating glacier. Yet, between 1975 and 1985, the glacierwas actually advancing thanks to a run of cold, snowy winters.\"We had a lot of problems with ice falls and lift towers beingdisplaced by the advancing ice,\" recalls Gnos. In the summerof 1980, the Fee Glacier advanced as much as 1.5 centimetres glaciers began to retreat, and in recent times, that process has accelerated enormously,\" Dominik explains. Duringa day on the Eggingerjoch side. The glacier put so much the heatwave that was summer 2017, the centuries-old ice sheet on the Glacier Trail, which navigates the Hohlaub andpressure on the foundations of the lift towers that many Allalin glaciers, lost up to a metre of thickness (see Saas-Fee Guides Magazine Issue #2). It's a trend which has continuedultimately had to be relocated. even after the snowy winter of 2017/2018; according to the Swiss Academy of Sciences, 1.4 billion cubic metres of iceHowever, the Walliser Bote newspaper correctly predicted atthe time that \"a new ice age is not to be expected\". Indeed,the very opposite came to pass. “From the mid-1980s, the
SAAS-FEE'S GENTLE GUARDIAN 19melted from Swiss glaciers last summer. completely unnavigable throughout large the ‘Mausetreppe’ up to its destination atThat amounts to 2.5 percent of its total parts of the season due to the increasing 3,800 metres above sea level. Since then,volume. size of the bergschrund, the fissure caused thousands of mountaineers have used the when a glacier meets a steep slope. In ladder to bridge the otherwise impassableCREATORS OF THE ‘MAUSETREPPE’ order for the Allalinhorn to remain one of fissure. After the snowy winter of 2017/2018,The fact that climate change is reshaping the most accessible four-thousand-metre- however, the ladder had been completelythe face of our glaciers at an ever- high peaks, a solution had to be found, buried by snow. And since, Gnos andincreasing rate certainly presents major and fast. In the space of just four days, his team have invested 250 hours intochallenges for the Saas Valley’s mountain mountain guides Dominik Gnos and Michi restoring the ladder, ready for a secondguides. On the Allalinhorn, for example, Schwarzl, fifty, along with sixty-eight-year- season.\"when spring came, after the relatively old Walter Hess, a longtime visitor andsnowless winter of 2016/2017, we realized eventual local of Saas-Fee, constructed athat particular routes - ones which had twelve-metre-high, two-and-a-half-metre-always been regularly used - had become wide wooden ladder. A helicopter carried LEFT PAGE Top: The Saas Valley mountain guides erected the so-called ‘Mausetreppe’ in June 2017. Since then,thousands of mountaineers have used the ladder to bridge the bergschrund, an otherwise impassable fissure. In 2018, Gnos and his team have invested 250 hours of labour to restore and maintain the ladder. Bottom: In a 1977 rescue exercise, Dominik Gnos hangs from Air Zermatt’slegendary ‘Lama’ helicopter. RIGHT PAGE Top: Avalanche blasting work to secure the slopesabove Felskinn station, 1981. Bottom : Man and his machine: in June 2018, Dominik Gnos clears snow from the route to the Allalinhorn in preparation for maintenance work on the ladder. NO REST AFTER RETIREMENT While many of Gnos' age might restrict themselves to gardening or the occasional round of golf, the Uri-native is still going strong. Why? \"For one thing, because working keeps you young... as long as you enjoy it. And I do,\" he smiles. \"I’m privileged to be in such good shape still at my age. So I just want to make the most of it. In my view, a mountain guide can’t just retire. The profession has too much going for it.\" And so, Saas-Fee's gentle guardian will continue to look after its mountains for years to come.
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22 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019 \"IFMGA ACCREDITED MOUNTAIN GUIDES: RECOGNISED THE WORLD OVER\" The Saas-Fee Guides exclusively employ mountain guides who are certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA). Pierre Mathey, managing director of the Swiss Mountain Guides explains just how important their high-level training is, and what it means for new mountain guide recruits. Photos: Puzzle Media, Swiss Mountain Guides Association Interview: Patrick Gasser Translation: Danielle Moore & Adam SpensleyPATRICK GASSER: Who can call themselves an IFMGA professional training also requires individuals to possess at leastMountain Guide? three years' mountain guiding experience, as well as extensivePIERRE MATHEY: The IFMGA badge is akin to a seal technical skills and non-technical 'soft' skills.of approval for mountain guides around the world. To beconsidered an IFMGA approved mountain guide you must Did the Swiss Mountain Guide Association help dictatehave successfully completed a training course certified by the the high level of training demanded by the IFMGA?IFMGA, and be licensed by an officially recognized national Yes, certainly. It's down to all four Alpine nations who first foundedassociation. In addition to any initial training, IFMGA mountain the federation. Switzerland has over 150 years of mountain guidingguides must commit to attending further professional tradition, a tradition built on mutual solidarity between mountaindevelopment courses every two years. guides and their guests. These fundamental values consistently guarantee a level of expertise that meets modern professionalThe IFMGA was founded in Zermatt in 1965, by guides standards.from Switzerland, Austria, France, and Italy. Howmany countries have joined the Federation sincethen?Today, the Federation consists of twenty-three member states and7,500 active mountain guides, residing across all five continents.IFMGA mountain guides are the only mountain professionals to berecognized all around the world. What's more, they are the onlyprofessionally certified guides accredited to lead, instruct, advise,and coach members of the public all year-round, across all alpinemountaineering disciplines, and in almost any mountain situation.What criteria does a national association need to meet \"For most snowsportsin order to apply for membership? instructors, taking guests on tours and ski runs inThere is a very strict procedure in place for national associations such glaciated terrain isapplying to join the International Federation of Mountain GuidesAssociations. The training programmes provided by the candidate off-limits.\"associations must comply fully with the objectives and minimumstandards of training set out by the IFMGA. All in all, the application Pierre Mathey, managing director of the Swissprocess takes between three and five years to complete. IFMGA Mountain Guides Association
Main: The Saas-Fee Guides exclusively SAAS-FEE'S GENTLE GUARDIAN 23employs IFMGA certified mountain guides. ABOUT PIERRE Fifty-year-old Pierre Mathey, from Martigny, has been a mountain guide for twenty-six years. He is the managing director of the Swiss Mountain Guides Association. SWISS MOUNTAIN GUIDES ASSOCIATION (SBV) The Swiss Mountain Guides Association (SBV) is a country-wide organization for mountain guides offering a range of up- to-date courses through its professional training programme. The association places a strong emphasis on the human, technical and professional standards required by modern-day mountain guides. UIAGM/IVBV The Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes (UIAGM) was founded in 1965 in Zermatt as the German Internationale Vereinigung der Bergführerverbände (IVBV; now also known as the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations, or IFMGA). The main aim of the association is to regulate and ensure the quality of the mountain guiding profession and international training standards. Member associations from twenty-three different countries are currently affiliated with the IFMGA.In what ways do mountain guides and highly trained mountain guides, be it in Switzerland or in Europe, respectively.snowsports instructors differ when it comes to their However, such membership is a recognized mark of quality bothcompetencies off-piste? at home and abroad. It also comes with the added benefit ofIFMGA mountain guides are authorised to lead ski tours and rapid assistance for guides and their guests in case of accidentsfreeride runs off-piste. The high-quality services they are – without the bureaucracy. Finally, membership also gives youable to provide in the high-alpine, often glaciated terrain of access to professional insurance offerings and guaranteedSwitzerland's 2,000-metre-high mountains is invaluable. But legal support services.while mountain guides are professionally trained to manageand reduce residual risks in these areas, for most snowsports The Swiss Mountain Guides Association has beeninstructors, taking guests on tours and ski runs in such glaciated having some difficulties with recruitment. Whatterrain is off-limits. needs to be done to encourage more young people to go into mountain guiding?What are the repurcussions if a snowsports Recruiting young talent is a big priority for the Swissinstructor does take guests beyond the boundaries Mountain Guides Association. Training as a mountain guideof the area they are legally authorised to instruct in? is a challenging pursuit which demands a great deal fromTo ensure the quality and safety of commercial activities in the prospective professionals. What's more, there is a general trendmountains, they are subject to strict national laws and permits, to move away from nature and mountain life, and far fewerboth in Alpine countries and in other IFMGA member countries. people are as close to nature as they tended to be in the past.Anyone found to be in breach of any applicable legislation or Even so, the IFMGA gladly recruits around 120 new guides perregulations faces heavy fines and potential loss of license. This year, twenty-five of which are Swiss. To really motivate youngapplies to all mountain guides, snowsports instructors, and any people to get into mountain guiding, it is vital to introduce themagencies offering such tours. to the mountains and get them on skis from an early age.Are all commercial mountain and snowsports tourproviders in Switzerland required to be officialaffiliates of the Swiss Mountain Guides Association?It is not compulsory to be a member of a national association of
24 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019 “Some people feel the rain. Others just get wet.” Bob Marley (1945 - 1981), Jamaican musician Photo: Puzzle Media Alessandro Boyens getting a facefull of early December pow, Saas-Fee.
SAAS-FEE'S GENTLE GUARDIAN 25 TA X I ZURBRIGGEN Train station and airport transfers. » Geneva » Zürich » Milan Prices can be found on our website.Holiday region Saastal+41 (0) 79 693 00 00www.taxizurbriggen.chinfo@taxizurbriggen.ch
26 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019VISPERTERMINEN FIVE FREERIDEVisperterminen's ski area is less thanan hour away from Saas-Fee. And GEMS NOT TOwhen snow conditions are goodand plentiful, you can take to touring BE MISSEDskis and skin through beautiful larchforests all through early winter. Should we or shouldn't we? After lengthy debate, we decided inHeidadorf-Visperterminen is best favour of revealing our five favourite lesser-known ski resorts. Notknown as the home of Europe's only will they never disappoint on a powder day, but they are allhighest vineyard, but it also has a lot less than two hours away from Saas-Fee.to offer in winter. The varied, forestedterrain and meadows make for Photos: Local tourist boards, Mario Zeitercaptivating winter runs. Two drag lifts Text: Patrick Gasserand a chairlift let you explore more Translation: Danielle Moore & Adam Spensleythan 2,000 vertical metres of terrain.When snow conditions are good,a descent to the deserted Nanzenvalley is especially worthwhile. EISCHOLL Like many other small ski areas, Eischoll has struggled to survive in recent years. After thirty-five years in operation, the resort's chairlift had to be replaced, and the 3.8-million- Swiss-franc project was only made possible by funding from locals, guests, homeowners, and friends of the ski resort. Overcrowding is still unheard of in the tiny resort in the Augstbord region, even with its new transport system. Another ski lift takes you up to Erez at 2,200 metres, opening up further opportunities for freeriders and ski tourers. The varied terrain offers fantastic forest runs on snowy days throughout December and January, with the added bonus of the chairlift and dedicated parts of the slopes opening late for night skiing on Fridays and Saturdays. Eischoll is less than an hour away from Saas-Fee by car.
FIVE FREERIDE GEMS NOT TO BE MISSED 27 MITTE LINKE SEITE Links: Im einwöchigen Kurs lernen dieSAN DOMENICO SKI MOUNTAIN Hauptbild: Das Nachwuchsförderprojekt der Jugendlichen Verantwortung zu übernehmen. Schweizer Skischule Saas-Fee hilft ehemaligen Dazu gehört etwa die Organisation der Aufwärmspiele vor dem Unterricht.Even Italian resorts can be reached quickly froSmkireSnanafash-Freeren;biet itmakEeinssjtuiesgt in die Karriere alsunder two hours to get to San Domenico ski reMSscoihtrtntee:ferIonspmTohrttehleoehrirSeebar.laösckVenalwleeyr,den die RECHTE SEITE Oben:via the Simplon Pass. Many people have nevJeurgehnedalircdheonfmiti,t adnemd Athuafbt'sau desprecisely why even easily accessible slopes cavUnenrttrerearmruictahgitnesmyusantcethrmat.sckvoendSdwaiysssSnowsportsafter the last snowfall. The slopes could also be empty, however, thanksto the tempting distraction that is the area's outstanding Italian cuisine.Of course, our guides are in search of the best snow conditions, notthe best lunch. And the snow is what makes this ski resort such a localgem: due to its location just south of the Simplon Pass, its winters seeremarkable amounts of snowfall. When everything comes together, it haseverything a freerider's heart desires: spacious forests, open slopes, andmeadows reaching a lofty 2,550 metres. For those who want to make it amulti-day powder ski safari, the Rothwald ski area can be visited en-routeto San Domenico. As ever when it comes to ski touring and freeriding,San Domenico does have some restricted wildlife conservation areasto avoid. And be warned, the regional Carabinieri do carry out frequentchecks. JEIZINEN Anyone who has ever been to the legendary Open Air Gampel music festival will know of the Üflänge chairlift up to Jeizinen. It transports you from the bustling festival down in the Rhone Valley all the way up to 1,500 metres above sea level, in just a few minutes. From there, a large ski lift leads to the upper Feselalpe. The ski resort’s south-facing slopes are located at an altitude of 1,700 to 2,200 metres. When snow falls in the months of December and January, the small but beautiful ski area above Jeizinen becomes a real powder paradise. That it’s home to ‘Jeizi Powderstash,’ one of those rare locally-organized freeride events that retain a friendly atmosphere, attests to just that. This year it will take place on 3rd March. Jeizinen can be reached in around an hour and a half from Saas-Fee, by car and then cable car.ROTHWALD POWDER TOUR WITH SAAS-FEE GUIDESWhen a ski resort earns the nickname The Saas Valley is guaranteed snow.‘Little Canada,’ you know it must be good.Just like the legendary destinations in But until the snow cover on the glaciersBritish Columbia it evokes, Rothwald offersmagnificent tree-skiing and great snow. POWgeDtEsRd-eTeOpUaRnMd IsTtaSbAleASen-FoEuEghG,UitIDcaEnS beSpacious larch forests will make your Das wSoaratshtatlakisitngäuassleoroskt sbcehynoenedsicthheer. vBailsledyi’espowder dreams come true, especially on Schnheoersiczhoicnhst. EasupfecdieanllyGdleutrsicnhgertnhegfeirnsütgheanldfdays when the snowfall shows no sign dick oisft,wloinhtnetr ews hseicnh naebearrbüybesrkdi ernesToerltlesrrcaanndof letting up. The Rothwald/Wasenalp ski zunlounahdhnbeesmtlgrtiknoaceaipkielkneesregenisace.d.uhindsGeOegfemeaüurSblrarokiddludiPgeafneuueyttllbeiavlntyineiernirtpdheqBeus.uerngrfaUgguoelrnfiirirüfdsgishpeeeeterrodseenwrTaadzWkkgneeenierdnrnots-itnfthweirehzruipinhiengsärtghtldhfertliieyyenenarea, to the north of the Simplon region, bestebnesStpostpso. MtsittdoemvisLiatn, darnodvetrhDeeifreLndaenrdhraobveenris one of the snowiest in the Alps. The die GDueidfeens deeinr mbeaskteensstgheeepigenrefteecst Faallh-rwzeeuagthfeürresort's two ski lifts make almost 2,300 alle vWehetitcelrebetodirnegaucnhgetnheubmesmt ictoinhdreitnionGsä.stenmetres of skiable vertical accessible, and die Destinationen mit den besten Bedingungena variety of additional lines are but a shortclimb away. Again, Rothwald is less than an aufzuDsauychterinp.s to ski resorts outside the Saashour away from Saas-Fee. Pstraerits(Veeenaxlfcblüeleruyi dCTiasHngtgFaer1sst4ak0uia.sp-tflpaüCrsgosHe)P.Feinrs1o4ann0d(.e-exrpkele. SSrkkipigpeearbssiseo).tne WeitFeurertIhnefor rInmfaotrimonaetino:n: wwww.swkiwsc.shaualesf-esaeagsu-ifdeees.c.chom info@insfkoi@scshaualesf-esaeagsu-ifdeees.c.chh +41 2+7491 5277 293574844 64 SchwSeaiazes-rFSekeisGchuuidlees AG DorfOplbaetzre1 Dorfstrasse 53 390639S0a6asS-Faeaes-Fee SchwSewizitzerland
28 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019THE NEXTGENERATIONAlmost everyone growing up in the Saas Valley finds themselves on skis froma young age. The region provides the perfect foundation for its residents tosomeday pursue the dream job that is being a snowsports instructor. With itsyouth development program, the Swiss Ski School Saas-Fee aims to make iteasier for the next generation to get into the profession.Photos: Schweizer Skischule Saas-FeeText: Patrick GasserTranslation: Danielle Moore & Adam Spensley world. Most distance overcome inhibitions and promote themselves somewhat, dialogue, which is one of the most generally sometime important steps on the way to becoming between the ages of a snowsports instructor. \"In terms of ski technique, everyone is already at a very fourteen and seventeen. \"It good level,\" he explains. \"My job over the course of the intensive week is to share is a shame to see so many methodology and teaching methods which will help aspiring ski instructors to of them almost completely work more effectively with guests.\" stop skiing. Because they JOEL HAS BIG PLANS One such prospective ski instructor is are all such good, talented Joel Arnold. The sixteen-year-old from Saas-Fee spent the winter of 2017/2018 skiers,\" says Anthamatten. under the expert wing of Supersaxo. After a week's training course, he completed a That’s why, two years ago, work placement, shadowing experienced ski instructors for a further seven days, and the ski school manager actively taking a part in the teaching. \"It was a totally new experience for me,\" saysBack problems derailed Gabriel teamed up with Ingemar Joel. \"Our race coaches used to advise us Anthamatten's plans, cutting on how to improve, but during training, I short his career as a ski racer. Supersaxo to create a just did everything without even thinkingToday, the twenty-seven-year-old heads about it. This was the first time I’d been inup the ski school and is responsible for programme designed for adolescents. a position to help someone else take theiralmost a hundred ski and snowboard skiing to the next level.\" The week made ainstructors in Saas-Fee. He has made \"We have to catch kids right at the end lasting impression on Joel who still has aa successful transition from ski racer to keen interest in becoming a ski instructor.snowsports instructor. of their racing career and show themFROM RACER TO SNOWSPORTS that there is another reason to continueINSTRUCTORThanks to various youth clubs, the Saas skiing,\" says Anthamatten. “Otherwise, itValley's children are generally able toski from a very early age. Yet the older is usually too late.”they get, the more difficult it becomes.Only a few make the leap to national Over the past two seasons, around tenperformance centres, and only select teenagers have spent a week eachindividuals make it into the professional training on the slopes of Saas-Fee with experienced ski instructor and Swiss Snowsports training examiner Supersaxo. During this time, participants are given the responsibility of teaching a class of their own for the first time. \"Even if it's just your own friends, this first time is really important,\" says Supersaxo. One of the key objectives of the week is to
MIDDLE THE NEXT GENERATION 29 Main: The young talent development programme run by the Swiss Ski School Saas- LEFT PAGE Fee helps former youth racers move into careers Left: In the week-long course, aspiring ski as snowsports instructors. instructors learn how to take charge of a class, Middle: Young students use theory books to by leading pre-lesson warm-ups, for example. familiarize themselves with the basic principles of Swiss Snowsports teaching methods. RIGHT PAGE Right: The week-long training course is followed by a one-week practical placement where each student accompanies a trained snowsports instructor and assists in teaching lessons.This article was written in collaboration withthe Swiss Ski School Saas-Fee. But he also wants Saas Valley. That's why, for TRAINEE SNOWSPORTS INSTRUCTOR to focus on the many, it is so important to have COURSES WITH SWISS SKI SCHOOL electrician training a second source of income SAAS-FEE he began in for the summer months. This course is aimed at young people between summer 2018. \"It Anthamatten and his family fourteen and seventeen-years-old. It welcomes gives me a great run the Almageller Hut, while technically advanced skiers from the Saassense of perspective. I can work with Supersaxo is a forestry worker Valley and the rest of Valais, as well youngski school guests throughout the winter who spends his summers holidaymakers. The course led by Supersaxo ismonths, and as an electrician in the looking after the valley's forests; Joel not intended as a classroom style lesson, but as asummer.\" is well on his way to making it work by shared experience with all course participants, as becoming an electrician. The Swiss Ski well as the coach, contributing to the lesson. TheSHAPING PERSPECTIVES School Saas-Fee project has already next free course will take place in the ChristmasSupersaxo and Anthamatten share the seen its first successful protegees. A week, from 24th to 28th December. The week-same enthusiasm for instructing. \"We number of past participants have already long course is followed by a one-week practicalwant to show just how attractive a career started Swiss Snowsports instructor placement where each student accompaniesas a snowsports instructor can be,\" says training courses. \"In our view, each and a trained ski instructor and assists in teachingAnthamatten. For the most part, it's a every young person who begins training lessons.desire for a steady year-round income as a snowsports instructor is a success,\" Further Information:which drives young people away from says Supersaxo.the highly seasonal tourist trade of the www.skischule-saas-fee.ch \"My job over the course info@skischule-saas-fee.ch of the intensive week is to +41 27 957 23 48 share methodology and teaching methods which Schweizer Skischule Dorfplatz 1 will help aspiring ski 3906 Saas-Fee instructors to work more Switzerland effectively with guests.\" Ingemar Supersaxo, President of Swiss Ski School Saas-Fee
30 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019 “Skiing is the best way in the world to waste time.” Glen Plake (1964), American freestyle and freeride skier Photo: Ski instructor Richi Bumann with his class in Saas- Fee in the early 1960s.
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34 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019THE SCIENCE OFSNOW The WSL Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research SLF is one of the world's most prestigious addresses of its kind. To carry out their work, the institute's 140 staff rely on data from monitoring stations throughout Switzerland. One of those stations is in Saas-Fee and is monitored by Reto Sporrer, who also runs Saas-Fee Guides. Photos: Steffi Bumann, Puzzle Media, Dominic Zurbriggen, Patrick Gasser Text: Patrick Gasser Translation: Danielle Moore & Adam Spensley
THE SCIENCE OF SNOW 35 Main: Gregor Zurbriggen, member of the local mountain rescue service (front), and Reto Sporrer, Managing Director of Saas-Fee Guides AG, collect data on snow conditions in Hohsaas, the area above Saas-Grund.
36 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019\" It's almost meditative,\" says fifty-eight-year-old Sporrer. SNOW: A COMPLEX MATTER The managing director of Saas-Fee Guides AG Snow is exceptionally complex; conditions vary according to trudges through the fresh ankle-deep snow outside temperature, solar radiation, and wind. Ultimately, this makes his apartment. He’s heading in the direction of the village's predicting the risk of avalanches extremely complicated. At minigolf course, to an unspoiled snowfield. In the middle least twice a month, to get an idea of the condition and type of the fenced-off area is a measuring stick indicating a of snowpack, Sporrer and members of the local mountain snow depth of 1.4 metres. It's mid-March, and Saas-Fee is rescue service take several snow profile readings, digging experiencing an extraordinary winter. Older villagers into the flat measuring field as well as directly into the might call it 'normal', but nobody under thirty north-facing slopes. That is where the snowpack is at its can remember having seen this much snow before. Over the last few weeks, a strong weakest, due to a lack of sunlight in the winter months. low-pressure system has been scooping up Their findings will serve not just the mountain guides as a warm air over the Gulf of Genoa and driving basis for planning their tours. In addition, road inspectors, it towards the Alps. When systems like this and those who manage the mountain railways and ski hit the towering mountainsides of the resorts all use SLF data to help decide whether additional Saas Valley, a generous serving of fresh snow is guaranteed. measures need to be taken to ensure the safety of ski slopes or infrastructure.Between the 6th and 10th of January2018 alone, more than two metresfell in the Saas Valley. Such largequantities of fresh snowfall in sucha short period are an unusualoccurrence. On this occasion, itmeant that the avalanche risk wastemporarily raised to the highestpossible level (see \"Avalanchewarning levels at a glance\").The last time thathappened was ten years ago. The Davos-based Institute FOOTPRINTSfor Snow and Avalanche Research (SLF) uses the data OF CLIMATEfrom these monitoring stations to estimate risk levels in the CHANGEvarious regions of Switzerland. Sporrer looks after one such More than 140 people arestation, as did his mother, Bertha, who collected the data involved in the research done bydaily throughout the winter for over thirty years, transmitting the SLF. The insights they gain, viathe information to SLF over the telephone. Nowadays, the experiments in both the laboratory andprocess involves just a few touches of a smartphone. in the natural world, are incorporated into plans to prevent future disasters. Managing avalancheMEASURING DATA FOR RISK ASSESSMENT threats includes making recommendations to improveFirst thing in the morning, equipped with a metre-rule, defence structures for roads and buildings. But the seriesSporrer measures the previous night's snowfall against a of measurements collected over decades also serve assmooth white plastic board: twelve centimetres of incredibly the basis for scientific studies and prove valuable when itfine powder snow, and a reading of -11.7 degrees Celsius comes to observing climate change. According to the SLF,indicates the snow temperature. Sporrer sends this snow andweather data straight to the SLF from the oldest monitoringstation in the Saas Valley. Along with results taken from thevalley's other stations, the specialists in Davos are able topaint a picture of the current situation. In turn, this allowsthem to assess the avalanche risk status and create anavalanche bulletin for each region (see \"avalanche bulletin\"box).
THE SCIENCE OF SNOW 37LEFT PAGEWinter 2017/2018 wasextremely snowy in theSaas Valley.MIDDLEEach winter, everymorning, data istransmitted from themonitoring station inSaas-Fee to the Institutefor Snow and AvalancheResearch (SLF). Thereadings inform theregional avalanchebulletin.RIGHT PAGEIn January 2018, overtwo metres of fresh snowfell in just four days. Thesnowfall as seen fromFurggstalden, aboveSaas-Almagell.the data clearly shows that our winters are becoming increasingly AVALANCHE WARNING LEVELS AT Asnow deprived. However, up to now, this has only been true forlocations less than 1,300 metres above sea level. So far, according to GLANCEan SLF study, for areas above 2,000 metres, there is no clear trendyet in winter snow levels between December and February. Due to its 5 Numerous large to extremelyelevation, with slopes situated up to 3,600 metres above sea level, large spontaneousthe Saas Valley can still be guaranteed snow. However, another trend avalanches can be expected.noted by SLF researchers analysing growing amounts of data presents Threat to housing anda major challenge for winter sports tourism in the Alps: the first snow is infrastructure.arriving later and melting away ever earlier come spring. 4 Spontaneous and often very large avalanches likely. Extremely dangerous for most snowsports activities.AVALANCHE BULLETIN avalanche bulletin can be found online at 3 Ruptures in the snowpackIn its avalanche bulletin, the SLF provides www.slf.ch or on the free of charge SLF and 'whoomph' soundsinformation about the current avalanche \"White Risk\" app. On the app, you will find common. Marginal conditionssituation. The report compiled from the a number of useful tips to help minimise for backcountry access –data of various measuring stations is potential avalanche dangers in open experience in risk assessmentakin to a bible for those who plan to terrain as much as possible. essential.venture off-piste. The avalanche bulletinsare designed to give readers informed Further Information: 2 Warning signs can occur inwarnings. Published twice daily throughout isolated cases. Avalancheswinter, the bulletin provides, most www.slf.ch can be triggered on veryimportantly, avalanche danger forecasts steep slopes.for the Swiss Alps, Liechtenstein and, contact@slf.chwhen there is sufficient snow cover, the 1 Avalanches rarely triggered,Jura mountains as well. In winter, it offers +41 91 417 01 11 usually only on extremelya zoomable hazard map, with descriptions steep slopes. Be alert to theof the relevant hazards and an informative WSL- SLF danger of falling.section titled \"Snow and weather\". The Flüelastrasse 11 7260 Davos Dorf Switzerland
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40 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019 Main: On 16th December 1981, the ‘Fall-Lawine’ avalanche completely destroyed a family home. RIGHT PAGE Top: Rescue workers scoured the wreckage of the destroyed house in search of the buried person. It is close to a miracle that they were able to rescue her unharmed. Upper Middle: The village’s lift masts snapped like matchsticks under the force of the snow. Lower Middle: Even the Spielboden lift station was damaged by the avalanche. Many offices were filled to the ceiling with snow. Bottom: Today, a commemorative plaque on a broken larch tree commemorates the avalanche of 1981. A FORCE OF NATURE The sound of tumbling snow, ringing out like rolling thunder is part and parcel of winter life in the Saas Valley. But the extent of the devastation left behind by the avalanche of 1981 was previously unimaginable, even to the villagers of Saas-Fee. The incident left masses of snow towering up to seven metres high; but, miraculously, nobody came to any serious harm. Photos: Private archive Reto Sporrer, Patrick Gasser Text: Patrick Gasser Translation: Danielle Moore & Adam Spensley
A FORCE OF NATURE 41 he winter of 1981-1982 completely destroyed by should go down in the snow. At the time of the avalanche, the two childrenT the history books as a were up in the attic, and they were quickly freed from the relatively poor one for snow wreckage by the emergency cover in the Saas Valley. Mid- services. The grandmother, December saw very little on the other hand, was snow. But the wind, ever the trapped in the basement as master avalanche-maker, did the walls collapsed around an expert job nonetheless. her, hemming her into her The roar of snow crashing bed. Her cries for help went down may be frightening for unheard for some time, but people from the lowlands, eventually, her luck changed. but the inhabitants of the The team of rescue workers Saas Valley are used to it. had to use heavy machinery Ice masses and avalanches to shift a seven-metre high regularly fall down into the body of avalanche snow, valley from the Mischabel and their snow groomer group's mighty four- rumbled for hours until one thousanders. This was as of its tracks broke and the true back in the winter of defect forced them to take a 1981 as it is today. But at break. It was at that moment, five o'clock in the morning when all fell silent, that the on the 16th December trapped grandmother's weak 1981, everything suddenly changed. cries could suddenly beLIFT MASTS SNAPPED heard. Eventually, aroundLIKE MATCHSTICKS seven hours later, they wereToday, all that remains as a able to rescue the elderlyreminder of the incident are woman from the snow. She,wooden plaques, erected too, survived the episodeon broken larch trees a unscathed.few metres in front of theSpielboden-Plattjen lift station. THE AFTERMATHThose aside, there are no Cleanup efforts took somelonger any visible signs of time, largely because thethe enormously destructive snow had spread so far. It hadpower of the events of that even made its way into theday in 1981. In the early hours offices housed in the Plattjen/of the morning, the great ‘Fall- Spielboden lift station, onLawine’ as the avalanche the far side of the river. Thecame to be known, tore following summer, traces ofthrough everything that stood the December avalanchein its path from its origin at four were still present. In fact, whenthousand metres above sea the snow in the meadows oflevel down to the village, more Stafelwald finally melted, itthan 2000 metres below. emerged that the avalancheThe extent of the damage had brought more than snowonly became apparent in the with it: the cascades hadlight of day: the lift masts in dragged hundreds of cubicthe village lay on the ground, metres of rubble and debrissnapped like matchsticks. On down from the Mischabelthe Sportplatz, the avalanche chain and into the valley. Thatsnow stood three metres high, spring, the landowners spentand the avalanche had thrown weeks on end picking uptwo forty-kilogram ice hockey the debris it had left behind.goals 250 metres up into the Even so, the first crocuses toforest beyond. spring up amongst the rubble provided a reminder thatCRIES FOR HELP even the harshest of wintersANSWERED eventually come to an end.The Kalbermatten familyhome was one of the worsthit; the building, situatednext to Hotel Waldesruh, was
42 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019 “The will is not free - it is a phenomenon bound by cause and effect - but there is something behind the will which is free.” Swami Vivekananda (1863 - 1902), Indian Hindu monk and savant Photo: The huge “Fall” avalanche deliberately triggered by avalanche control on the Mischabel range in January 2018.
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THE KEY TOSTAYING SAFE Staying safe from avalanches is not just a matter of chance. With the right knowledge, winter sports enthusiasts can minimize the risks of venturing off-piste. In Saas-Fee, experts from the International Snow Training Academy (ISTA) pass on their knowledge. Photos: Puzzle Media, ISTA Text: Patrick Gasser Translation: Danielle Moore & Adam SpensleyI n the last few years, winter sports equipment has undergone significant changes. The modern preference for wider skis - which float better in the deeper snowfound off-piste - means that powder skiing has become fareasier for the less experienced. At the same time, avalanchetransceivers have become easier to operate, and avalanchebackpacks have become commonplace, making venturingout of bounds feel easier and safer to the uninitiated. In anemergency, avalanche backpacks release an air cushionwhich propels you upwards, helping you remain on thesnow’s surface and preventing you from being buried undermetres of the white stuff. Neither development, however,is any guarantee of safety. The best way to be safe whileexploring the mountains in winter is to possess adequateand relevant experience. This is where International SnowTraining Academy (ISTA) courses come into their own.ADVANTAGE SCHEMES AND CERTIFICATESThis international programme for disseminating vitalavalanche knowledge is aimed at winter sports enthusiastswho explore the backcountry. More than forty highly trainedmountain guides from nine different countries across a
THE KEY TO STAYING SAFE 45 total of three continents came together to develop the training courses. The courses take a tiered approach to instruction, tailoring it to individual abilities; meanwhile, classes are supported by teaching aids in the form of illustrated books, all of which are available in German, English, French and Italian. ISTA values its role in building an international community which fosters an active exchange of knowledge. On completion of the courses, participants receive a certificate giving them access to an attractive advantage scheme which entitles members to special offers on travel, sports equipment, and other tourist services.Main: An ISTA student SAAS-FEE GUIDES IS A PROUD MEMBER OF ISTA GOOD TO KNOWtakes a snow profile out Saas-Fee Guides is proud to offer these essential courses,in the field. which are run in collaboration with Swiss Ski School Saas- ISTA courses with trained Saas-Fee Guides Fee. Up-to-date information can be found on the Guides’ AG mountain guides are available from CHFLEFT PAGE website. No prior expertise or specialist knowledge 320.- per person.Bottom: The very best is required to partake in an ISTA-certified ‘Discovery' Further Information:equipment is only beginners course. Primarily intended to give young peopleuseful if you know how the opportunity to learn how to venture off-piste safely, www.saasfeeguides.comto use it. This is where the courses cover a range of content including how toISTA courses come into correctly handle and operate specialist kit. After all, even info@saasfeeguides.chtheir own. the most modern avalanche transceiver is only useful in an emergency if the user is well-practised and proficient. Most +41 27 957 44 64RIGHT PAGE importantly, the courses are designed to teach participantsTop: ISTA's teaching how to recognize potential risks and read snow conditions Saas-Fee Guides AGaids are in standardised appropriately. Obere Dorfstrasse 53languages and 3906 Saas-Feedesigned to be Switzerlanduniversally understood.Bottom: ISTA courses ISTA - International Snow Training Academytake place in the greatoutdoors. The Saas- www.ista-education.comFee Guides mountainguides also delight in a /ISTAeducationdownhill run.
46 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019 Main: A complex recovery effort to lift a skier from a crevasse. Venturing out onto the glacier without the required knowledge can end badly. “TOO MANY SNOWSPORTS ENTHUSIASTS UNDERESTIMATE THE RISKS OF THE GLACIER\" The glacial world of the Saas Valley attracts thousands of mountaineers each year. But there are more than a few potential pitfalls. Rolf Trachsel, head of Saas Valley mountain rescue, says that too many people underestimate the risks of venturing away from the controlled slopes on the glacier. The danger comes in the form of deep crevasses which are often impossible to detect. Photos: Provided by Saas Valley Mountain Rescue Text/Interview: Patrick Gasser Translation: Danielle Moore & Adam Spensley
“TOOMANYSNOWSPORTSENTHUSAI STSUNDERESTMI ATETHERSI KSOFTHEGLACEI R 47 W ith their trademark four- thousanders and glistening blue glacier ice, the Swiss Alps are hugely popular. The region also boasts lift systems which can quickly transport guests to the high alpine terrain with ease. This is especially true in the Saas Valley: during the winter, it takes just thirty minutes to get from Saas-Fee to the glacier ski slopesat the foot of the Allalin, more than 3,500 metres above sea level. But as soon as you leavethe safely maintained slopes you find yourself in the danger zone. While in most ski resorts in the Alps the risks are largely contained to avalanches and areas which pose a danger of falling, the glaciated terrain of the Saas Valley presents an added hazard. Each winter, crevasses up to sixty metres deep, and barely visible to the untrained eye, ensnare unsuspecting snowsports enthusiasts. \"Many guests are unaware that they are actually on the glacier,\" says Trachsel. That’s why he argues that doing a better job of raising awareness is so important.
48 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019 \"Investing money in training courses to keep you safe is far more important than buying the latest camera to capture the action.” Rolf Trachsel, mountain guidePATRICK GASSER: From mountain emergency situations, paper?guide to rescue specialist: what so I already had some relevant experience. It’s not that bad. Butmade you choose the path you Then Bertha Sporer, the mountain rescue yes, of course, being headdid? manager at the time, asked me if I would of mountain rescue comes with a like to train as a rescue specialist. I went on lot of paperwork. And I always have toROLF TRACHSEL: One naturally to complete all the required modules in the be on call. For me, the biggest challengefollowed the other. As a mountain guide, space of three years. at the beginning was coordinating variousyou’re expected to provide assistance in operations, from the ambulance service Do you still do any guiding? and Air Zermatt, to the fire department, and Definitely, in the summer I work as a full- mountain railways. Then, of course, every time mountain guide. It's still my main job, service and every deployment involves although in 2012 I also took over the post insurance settlements and statistics. as head of Saas Valley mountain rescue. What kind of changes have you And for that, you’ve had to swap noticed on the mountain? Are your carabiners for a pen and people more careless than they used to be? It's hard to say. There are certainly more people in the mountains than there were before. And in principle, that is a welcome trend as more and more stressed city dwellers come searching for peace and ABOUT ROLF Rolf Trachsel, fifty-two, has been visiting Saas-Fee to take guests on ski tours in the mountains since 1984. The Bernese highlander from Saanen, near Gstaad, completed his mountain guide training in 1994. He shares his appreciation of our glacier village with Judith, his wife, and fifteen-year-old son Fernando. Since 2003, Trachsel has also been a mountain rescue specialist and at the beginning of the summer of 2012, he took over as head of the Saas Valley mountain rescue station.
“TOOMANYSNOWSPORTSENTHUSAI STSUNDERESTMI ATETHERSI KSOFTHEGLACEI R 49Main: The Saas Valley quickly media doesmountain rescue station enough before mean that aworks closely with Air they reach the edge of a constant flood of off-pisteZermatt. chasm. Ultimately, we come out to snowsports imagery reaches a far largerLeft: Mountain guide Rolf rescue those in need. People who venture number of people than before. TheseTrachsel has been head of onto the glacier alone are much more action shots show professionals ridingSaas Valley mountain rescue difficult to find since there is no one else perfect-looking runs on untouched slopes.operations since 2012. there to show rescuers where to look. But clips on social media rarely show theRight: Rescue specialists meticulous planning which goes into thoseand Air Zermatt rescue a How has the behaviour of runs to keep risks to a minimum.ski tourer who has had a snowsports enthusiasts changedmishap. Coordinating the in recent years? You’re also a fan of skiing powder.various operations is a major I have noticed a kind of carelessness that What should we be wary of?challenge. wasn't so apparent a few years ago. To The most important rule is never to go off a certain extent, the same also applies alone. If you're not familiar with the area, quiet in to summer mountain sports. Nowadays, you should either stay on marked slopes or skiers and snowboarders go anywhere and ski with a local mountain guide. Of course, the mountains. everywhere they can find fresh snow. In you should always ensure you have the doing so, they take more risks, often failing requires kit too, including an avalancheIn addition, the to stop and consider the dangers that exist transceiver - powered on and placed under on the glacier when you go beyond the your first layer of clothing -, a shovel, probe,WinterCARD has marked pistes. and harness, as well as a first aid kit. And just as importantly, make sure that you alsoattracted considerably more Where does the sense carelessness know how to use the equipment. Investing come from? money in training courses to keep you safeguests to the Saas Valley. We all love powder days. Yet, in the age is far more important than buying the latest of Facebook and Instagram, many people camera to capture the action.So, do more guests mean more no longer seem to recognize the amountaccidents? of careful preparation and experience it As head of Saas Valley mountain actually takes to safely explore and enjoy rescue, what are you wishing forThat's what we are monitoring. In winter, glaciated areas. this winter?depending on the snow conditions, we A snowy winter would mean fewer crevasseare mainly concerned with crevasses. Is social media to blame? incidents, but I would also like to make sureWhen there's less snow, there tend to be I wouldn't say that, because in reality there we get better at raising awareness of thesignificantly more accidents on the glacier are a number of factors involved – for dangers that come with glacier skiing.than when there is a lot of snow. In the example, the introduction of wider skis,relatively snow-free winter of 2016/2017, which in recent years have allowed evenfor instance, we conducted around half novice riders to ski powder. But sociala dozen crevasse rescues, and for oneindividual, unfortunately, help came toolate. Due to greater snowfall in the winterof 2017/2018, the risk was lower, resultingin just a single call out to rescue someonefrom a crevasse.Have you noticed any kind ofpattern in terms of crevasse fallsover the winter?The series of events that results in skiersand snowboarders falling into crevasses isusually pretty predictable: they venture offthe marked pistes and go riding in high-riskareas. All of a sudden a snow bridge givesway or they are simply unable to brakeSAAS VALLEY MOUNTAIN RESCUESTATIONThe team based at the Saas Valleymountain rescue station includesfour fully-trained mountain rescuespecialists, volunteer members ofthe rescue team, Swiss Alpine Club(SAC) members, and trained mountainguides. They benefit from the supportof three avalanche dogs and a trainedcrevasse search dog. They also workclosely with the region's various cablecar companies, as well as the police, AirZermatt, ambulance services and thevalley's fire brigade departments.
50 SAAS-FEE GUIDES . WINTER 2019 “People don't notice whether it's winter or summer when they're happy.” Anton Chekhov (1860 - 1904), Russian author Photo: Puzzle Media The last few metres of the climb. Saas-Fee, October 2018.
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