Harper's Bazaar USA - April 2022

Senior Vice President/Group Publishing Director CAROL A. SMITH Senior Vice President/Publishing Director Vice President/General Manager Vice President, Marketing JACK ESSIG ANNE WELCH BRENT WILLIAMS ALLEN Executive Director, Advertising Business Operations Group Executive Marketing Director & Sales Strategy Vice President, Sales JEANINE TRIOLO LISA PIANA CHRIS PEEL Chief Brand Officer, Hearst Luxury Collection E-Commerce Group Finance Manager Executive Assistant/Business Associate KEN DOWNING RON SABATINI DANA WENTZEL INTEGRATED ADVERTISING SALES BRANCH OFFICES Group Executive Director, Beauty & Lifestyle JOANNA NOWACK MELISSAKIS Executive Sales Director, West Coast MARJAN DIPIAZZA Group Executive Director, Fashion & Luxury AARON KRANSDORF TELEPHONE: (310) 664-2973 Senior Executive Sales Director, Luxury KATE SLAVIN Executive Sales Director, Midwest AUTUMN JENKS Executive Sales Directors, Fashion PAULA FORTGANG, JOHN WATTIKER Executive Sales Director, Southwest LUCINDA WEIKEL ([email protected]) Executive Sales Director, Luxury CARYN KESLER Sales Director, West Coast JASON YASMENT Executive Sales Directors, Beauty ANGELA PARAUDA, JILL SCHLANGER-SLIVKA Sales Director, Southeast RITA WALKER ([email protected]) Executive Sales Director, Travel RW HORTON ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Executive Sales Director, Lifestyle TAMMY COHEN Senior Sales Director, Lifestyle JOHN CIPOLLA Advertising Services Director MICHAEL NIES Senior Advertising Services Manager MICHELLE LUIS Senior Sales Director, Beauty LAUREN DEL VALLE Senior Sales Director, Fashion MICHAEL RIGGIO Senior Billing Coordinator JONELLE DUNCAN Senior Sales Manager, Direct Media ANGELA HRONOPOULOS Sales Assistants OLIVIA BENSON, AALIA MEHRA, AMANDA SHEERIN PRODUCTION & ADMINISTRATION INTEGRATED MARKETING Operations Account Manager PATRICIA NOLAN Executive Marketing Directors SARAH CLAUSEN, ALEXANDRA KEKALOS, President & Chief Executive Officer DANA MENDELOWITZ, LINDSAY SABLE STEVEN R. SWARTZ Executive Director, Special Projects AMANDA GILLENTINE Chairman WILLIAM R. HEARST III Senior Marketing Director AIMEE COUTURE Marketing Director SARA OLDMIXON Executive Vice Chairman FRANK A. BENNACK, JR. Associate Marketing Director DEAN FRYN Senior Marketing Manager BRIANA ROTELLO Chief Operating Officer MARK E. ALDAM Marketing Managers GINNY DURKIN, EMILY LYNCH Secretary CATHERINE A. BOSTRON Marketing Coordinators ISABELLE ADLER, KENDRA WILLIAMS HEARST MAGAZINE MEDIA, INC. Marketing Assistant MCKENZIE SUTHERLAND President & Treasurer DEBI CHIRICHELLA BRAND DEVELOPMENT Chief Content Officer KATE LEWIS Executive Marketing Director, Research & Brand Development NICOLE SPICEHANDLER Senior Marketing Director, Research & Brand Development ALEXANDRA STETZER Chief Business Officer KRISTEN M. O’HARA Associate Marketing Director, Research & Brand Development MELANIE SINGER Publishing Consultants GILBERT C. MAURER, MARK F. MILLER CREATIVE SERVICES INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS Executive Creative Director THEA KARAS Senior Art Director JESSICA TSOUPLAKIS Arabia, Australia, Brazil, China, Czech Republic, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Kazakhstan, Korea, Malaysia, Mexico, Netherlands, Romania, Russia, Saudi, Serbia, Creative Director FRAUKE EBINGER Art Director ALICE STEVENS Singapore, Spain, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, Ukraine, United Kingdom, Vietnam EVENTS & PROMOTIONS President, Hearst Magazines International JONATHAN WRIGHT Executive Marketing Director, Events & Promotions KAREN MENDOLIA Associate Marketing Director, Events & Promotions JESSICA HEINMILLER SVP/Global Editorial & Brand Director KIM ST. CLAIR BODDEN SHOPBAZAAR.COM Global Editorial & Brand Director ELÉONORE MARCHAND Executive Director, E-Commerce CATHAY ZHAO Editorial Director JADE FRAMPTON CUSTOMER SERVICE Senior Director, E-Commerce Sales & Marketing NOËLLE TOTA Call: 800-888-3045 E-mail: [email protected] Visit: harpersbazaar.com/service Senior Content & Social Media Manager MINNA SHIM Write: Customer Service Department, Harper’s Bazaar, P.O. Box 6000, Harlan, IA 51593 Senior Fashion Editor & Brand Manager JESSICA RAWLS E-Commerce Director MIR MARTZ Assistant Managing Editor LYNDSEY NOEL Assistant Merchandising Editor REMY SCHIFFMAN Manager, Brand Partnerships KATHLEEN O’KEEFE Digital Designer SARAH OLIVIERI Digital Marketing Analyst JOSHUA RIITANO E-Commerce Coordinator REBECCA THERLONGE Editorial Coordinator, Brand Partnerships CAROLINE LASSMAN Assistant, Brand Partnerships CARLY SEMACK 42 B A Z A A R





THE BAZAAR WHAT TO BUY AND HOW TO WEAR IT EDITED BY JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN THE GOOD BUY: Pleats Please Issey Miyake Madame-T stole CHOW: TIERNEY GEARON Pleats Please Issey Miyake Madame-T stole, $425; 212-226-0100. Film and art producer CHINA CHOW on her CONVERTIBLE STOLE My day-to-day wardrobe is mostly Issey Miyake, from the brand’s much I love the style. It’s literally a piece of cloth with a slit in it that Pleats Please line. I love how utilitarian it is. You can throw anything you pull over your head and wrap around your body. It takes the from it in a suitcase and it won’t get wrinkled. Plus, the pieces are wearer to activate it and becomes this soft, sculptural armor. I now super lightweight and so comfortable. When I’m shopping, I ask own the piece in multiple colors; it’s easy to dress up or down. myself, “How wearable is this? How much space does it occupy? Is Once, I wore my turquoise one to a dinner I was hosting for a friend, there a better version of it out there?” Because if there is, I will wait the footwear designer Nicholas Kirkwood. By the end of the night, for it. The first time I tried on Issey’s Madame-T stole was about 15 I had taken my shoes off, and he drew Sharpie shoes directly on years ago at the Pleats Please store in SoHo, New York. I played my feet so I could move and be free. You can’t get the magic of with it a little bit and thought, “Oh, this doesn’t work on me.” Then I Issey’s designs without them being on a moving body; that’s when ended up ordering one at home, and that’s when I discovered how the poetry comes to life. AS TOLD TO ARIANA MARSH 04/22 PHOTOGRAPH BY RICHARD MAJCHRZAK 45

THE BAZAAR MARKET MEMO: Trench Coats Rain or SHINE ERDEM MODEL: ENIOLA ABIORO; RUNWAY: COURTESY THE DESIGNERS; DAILY PAPER JACKET: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM WHY DON’T YOU...? BURBERRY Double down on BELTS and BUCKLES with STRAPPY BOOTS. From top: Daily Paper From left: Isabel Marant boot, $1,175; shopBAZAAR.com. THE ROW jacket, $330; dailypaper The Row boot, $2,100; shopBAZAAR.com. clothing.com. Herno trench BAZAAR coat with foulard, $1,130; Vivienne Westwood boot, $835; 917-893-3556. herno.com. Loro Piana coat, $4,400; us.loropiana.com. PHOTOGRAPH BY SHARIF HAMZA 1 Moncler JW Anderson trench coat, $2,690; shopBAZAAR.com. 46

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMIE CHUNG. STYLING BY JJ CHAN. THE HERO A MUST-HAVE item from the EDITORS of HARPER’S BAZAAR AMI bag, $1,190. NOW MORE THAN EVER, WE WANT EFFORTLESS SOPHISTICATION, and designer Alexandre Mattiussi delivers with his buzzy brand, AMI. Our Hero is a newly launched style that puts thoughtful design first. Inspired by Paris, this sleek architectural tote is simple yet full of character. The accordion sides allow for maximum functionality and the refined color, versatile wear. →SHOPPING AT SHOPBAZAAR.COM IS EASIER THAN EVER. SCAN THE CODE WITH YOUR SMARTPHONE TO SHOP THE AMI HERO AND SEE HOW OUR EDITORS STYLED IT. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM

THE THE STATEMENT ACCESSORIES Pierre Hardy Alpha mini handbag, $775, and sandal, $795; pierrehardy.com. FASHION EDITOR: AMANDA ALAGEM. PRODUCTION: JULIA JONES AT MINI TITLE; SET DESIGN: NOEMI BONAZZI Chasing RAINBOWS Make your spring wardrobe POP with a CHROMATIC sandal or mini CROSSBODY from Pierre Hardy’s ALPHA range 48 PHOTOGRAPH BY BOBBY DOHERTY BAZAAR



THE BAZAAR 4 OF A KIND: COLORFUL TAILORING BRIGHT Idea Play up the CONTRAST in VIBRANT SUITING with a shirt in a FASHION EDITOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO. MANICURE: MARTHA FEKETE FOR CHANEL LE VERNIS. SEE THE DIRECTORY FOR SHOPPING DETAILS. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM COMPLEMENTARY HUE and pair of OPTIC WHITE SHOES Top left: Brunello Cucinelli blazer, $4,495, and pants, $1,995; Bottom right: Christopher John Rogers suit jacket, $1,695, shopBAZAAR.com. Closed blouse, $230; closed.com. Vacheron and trousers, $1,145; shopBAZAAR.com. Matteau shirt, $300; Constantin watch (worn throughout); 212-317-8964. Nouvel Heritage ring, int.matteau-store.com. Jil Sander sandals, $770; nordstrom.com. $4,400; nouvelheritage.com. Loro Piana sneakers, $1,150; us.loropiana Bottom left: Miu Miu blazer, $2,750, and pants, $1,520; bergdorfgoodman .com. Top right: Prabal Gurung blazer and trousers; prabalguring.com. .com. Puppets and Puppets shirt, $360; puppetsandpuppets.com. Vince shirt, $295; similar styles at vince.com. Charvet shoes; charvet.com. Celine by Hedi Slimane loafers, $920; celine.com. 50 PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLIE HOLLOWAY BAZAAR



THE BAZAAR IN THE FASHION CLOSET: Ballet Flats Center STAGE CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE BALLET FLATS, MAISON MARGIELA TABI BALLERINAS, $650; SIMONE ROCHA BALLET FLATS; 646-810-4785. FASHION EDITOR: JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN. SEE THE DIRECTORY FOR SHOPPING DETAILS. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM $590; CELINE.COM. MAISONMARGIELA.COM. The DANCE-INSPIRED SLIP-ON gets an en pointe remix with SCULPTURAL shapes and DECORATIVE ankle straps THE ROW BALLET FLATS, $790; SHOPBAZAAR.COM. TORY BURCH FLATS, $298; TORYBURCH.COM. POLO RALPH LAUREN BALLET FLATS, $328; RALPHLAUREN.COM. JIMMY CHOO FLATS, $525; JIMMYCHOO.COM. ANTHROPOLOGIE BALLET FLATS, $120; CHANEL FLATS, $1,725; 800-550-0005. ANTHROPOLOGIE.COM. 52 BAZAAR PHOTOGRAPHS BY IGNACIO MURILLO



THE BAZAAR PRO SHOP: Water Bottles ROCK On CamelBak Podium RABOUTOU: MAJA HITIJ/GETTY IMAGES; WATER BOTTLES (EXCLUDING YETI): RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D; YETI: COURTESY THE BRAND 24 oz. bike bottle, $11; camelbak.com. Prada water bottle, $85; prada.com. Soma 17 oz. glass sport bottle, $35; drinksoma.com. Above: Givenchy 4G flask with strap, $390; givenchy.com. Yeti Rambler 26 oz. bottle, $40; yeti.com. How OLYMPIC ROCK CLIMBER BROOKE RABOUTOU stays hydrated In 2019, then-18-year-old Brooke Raboutou made history when came with being an Olympian encouraged her to focus more on she qualified for the Tokyo Olympics as part of the inaugural U.S. her mental health. “There aren’t many resources for it within the sport climbing team. The games, which were pushed to 2021 due climbing community since we’re a younger sport,” says Raboutou, to Covid, marked the first time the event entered competition. “It who is currently majoring in marketing with a psychology minor took me so long to even realize what it meant,” says Raboutou, at the University of San Diego. “I would like to change that and who ultimately earned fifth place for her combined score in boul- help start the conversation.” Whether she’s climbing in a gym or, dering, lead climbing, and speed climbing. “It was big for our more preferably, out in nature, Raboutou is never without her Yeti sport, and I’m really proud to have been able to stand for my Rambler water bottle. “It’s big, and staying hydrated is definitely country.” While she has been competing since she was seven— important,” she says. “Plus, it’s sleek and sturdy. I don’t have to her parents are both world-class climbers—the pressures that worry about it breaking.” ARIANA MARSH 54 B A Z A A R



THE THE NECKLACE WILD FASHION EDITOR: AMANDA ALAGEM. PRODUCTION: JULIA JONES AT MINI TITLE; SET DESIGN: NOEMI BONAZZI. SEE THE DIRECTORY FOR SHOPPING DETAILS. Flower With a baguette- diamond CHOKER and oversize PENDANT, Tiffany & Co.’s new DANDELION NECKLACE is the definition of earthly ELEGANCE Tiffany & Co. necklace from the PHOTOGRAPH BY BOBBY DOHERTY BAZAAR 2022 Tiffany Blue Book Collection; tiffany.com. 56



LIFT TO EXPERIENCE Her HER EAU DE TOILETTE Collection LIFT TO EXPERIENCE FREE-SPIRITED FRAGRANCES FOR MODERN WOMEN HER EAU DE PARFUM AVAILABLE IN MACY’S, SEPHORA & ULTA

THE BAZ A A R JEWELRY NEWS TAG HEUER AQUARACER X NAOMI OSAKA LIMITED EDITION Brand ambassador Naomi Osaka designed this watch in her favorite color, selecting a dark-green rubber strap and a seafoam wave-pattern face with five-minute markers in the distinctive shade of tennis balls. TAG Heuer Aquaracer x Naomi Osaka Limited Edition watch, $3,950; tagheuer.com. COURTESY THE BRANDS. SEE THE DIRECTORY FOR SHOPPING DETAILS. EVA FEHREN REFLEXION H.O.W.L. HANDLE ONLY WITH To mark its 10th anniversary, New York LOVE BRAND RELAUNCH jeweler Eva Fehren launched a new high- jewelry collection made up of 14 one-of-a-kind Founded in 2010, L.A.-based jeweler H.O.W.L. Handle Only With pieces including rings, earrings, and necklaces. Designed to showcase unusual Love makes ornate gold-and- stone cuts, the range is rendered entirely gemstone pieces inspired by the natural world. To celebrate a new in white diamonds set in platinum. chapter, the brand is debuting full Eva Fehren necklace; evafehren.com. collections of rings, earrings, necklaces, and more while continuing to craft unique styles from upcycled family heirlooms. H.O.W.L. Handle Only With Love rings; handleonlywithlove.com. LAGOS SMART CAVIAR OMEGA X CLEARSPACE PARTNERSHIP Omega’s Speedmaster Known for its signature line of style went to the moon on the wrist of Neil Armstrong, and it’s jewelry featuring circular beading, been NASA’s official timepiece since 1965, worn by astronauts Philadelphia-based jeweler Lagos’s for more than 50 years. In keeping with this stellar legacy, the latest Caviar style is a sleek, Swiss watchmaker has joined forces with Swiss tech start-up sporty Apple Watch bracelet ClearSpace, whose mission is to remove dangerous space featuring stainless-steel hardware debris from Earth’s orbit. Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 and vivid ultramarine ceramic chronograph; omegawatches.com. links. Lagos Smart Caviar watch bracelet, $1,095; lagos.com. 04/22 59

THE THE DESIGNER DEBUT FASHION EDITOR: AMANDA ALAGEM. PRODUCTION: JULIA JONES AT MINI TITLE; SET DESIGN: NOEMI BONAZZI Kick START PIETER MULIER’s first collection for ALAÏA referenced Azzedine Alaïa’s signature motifs in a range of ornate LEATHER ACCESSORIES with STUDDED DETAILS Alaïa clogs, $1,170, and bucket bag, BAZAAR $2,220; maison-alaia.com. 60 PHOTOGRAPH BY BOBBY DOHERTY

THE BAZAAR SHOPPING LIST: Springtime Brights The Ribbed-Knit Maxi Dress The Snap Clips The Candy-Colored Sunglasses The Open-Toe Boot The Multistone Ring The Jeweled Collar The Cylinder Bag DRESS, SUNGLASSES COMPOSITION, NECKLACE, AND BOOT: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS; STYLING: JILL TELESNICKI, ANITA SALERNO, AND JESSIE LIEBMAN Clockwise from center: Christopher John Rogers dress, $1,325; net-a-porter.com. Balenciaga hair clips, $295 for two; 212-328-1671. Coach sunglasses, $266 each; coach.com. Louis Vuitton boot, $1,720; 866-VUITTON. Pomellato ring, $5,500; 800-254-6020. Swarovski necklace, $700; swarovski.com. Hermès handbag, $6,950; hermes.com. 04/22 61

VOICES FASHION EDITOR: MIGUEL ENAMORADO. HAIR AND MAKEUP (BATISTE): JENNA ROBINSON AND JESSE LINDHOLM; HAIR AND MAKEUP (GRAF MACK): KIYONORI SUDO FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE AND LINDA GRADIN FOR M.A.C. THE PEOPLE AND IDEAS SHAPING THE CULTURE Musician and composer JON BATISTE and Juilliard dance director ALICIA GRAF MACK on reinventing SPACES and INSTITUTIONS in the ARTS O  ver the past decade, Jon Batiste, the virtuoso musician, Batiste and Graf Mack first met in 2017, when they both composer, and Juilliard graduate who since 2015 has served performed at the Kennedy Center Honors to celebrate the ground- as bandleader on The Late Show With Stephen Colbert, has breaking actor, dancer, and choreographer Carmen de Lavallade. marched to the beat of his own improvisational drummer. Born In mid-February, they reconnected at Juilliard to talk about into a legendary New Orleans musical family, Batiste grew up reimagining the way we think about performing-arts education steeped in jazz, blues, gospel, and R&B, but his tastes run wide. and why creativity and reinvention go hand in hand. His most recent album, 2021’s We Are, explores a range of influences and genres while also tapping into the tenor and tension of a ALICIA GRAF MACK: I came up dancing at home, making up moves, historical moment when culture and identity, race and reckoning, and pulling curtains around myself to make costumes. I think that’s and the personal and political have all become inextricably bound. how every child starts a journey in the arts. I wanted to be a ballerina In the late spring and early summer of 2020, as the Covid-19 so badly, but there were not many ballerinas of color at the time— pandemic entered its first peak and calls for social justice grew and definitely not many ballerinas over five foot six. So it’s been louder, he began performing songs from We Are, as well as hymnals a journey to find my way in the dance world. Luckily, I was hired and protest anthems, by himself at a series of street-side concerts by Arthur Mitchell, who was the first Black principal at New York in Brooklyn. The 35-year-old Batiste is nominated for 11 Grammy City Ballet and created Dance Theatre of Harlem. When I joined awards this month, including eight for We Are and three more for that company, it was the first time I’d ever stepped in a room with his Oscar-winning score for the Disney-Pixar animated film Soul. all people of color. We toured the world, sharing that love for ballet, On May 7, Batiste is also scheduled to perform at Carnegie Hall but also the mission to show the world how beautiful Black people to debut American Symphony, a tribute to Duke Ellington, James are. Then I danced for Alvin Ailey, which had a similar mission. Reese Europe, Mahalia Jackson, Nina Simone, and other Black So I feel like I’ve been blessed to be in positions where you’re musical giants who have graced the venue’s stage. representing something larger than yourself. JON BATISTE: Well, it’s really special to represent something bigger In 2018, Alicia Graf Mack joined the Juilliard School as director than yourself. There’s an essence to the music that I strive to make of the conservatory’s dance department, the first woman of color that’s about ancestry, about lineage and identity. My mother was to lead the division. During her tenure, the school has done away the reason I went to Juilliard. I was into so many things when I was with gendered ballet classes and expanded the canon of music younger: gymnastics, tennis, chess, computer coding, painting. But taught in its history and theory courses to include more works by she’s the one who gave me the pamphlet for Juilliard and said, “You composers of color. It’s all part of what Graf Mack says is an effort have a gift for music. Let’s take this further.” And then my dad was to create an environment of belonging at Juilliard so people from my first musical mentor. So from those two and then the lineage any background can bring themselves fully into the space. The of my father and the Batiste family in New Orleans and all of the feeling of otherness is one that Graf Mack, 43, knows well; as a five- elders in that community, like Alvin Batiste, Ellis Marsalis Jr., Roger foot-ten ballerina, she didn’t look like the other dancers she grew Dickerson…there were so many Black people I was exposed to who up training with as a teenager in suburban Maryland. Graf Mack were not like what you would ever see on television or represented would go on to perform with both Arthur Mitchell’s Dance Theatre in the media as what a Black person can be. I graduated high school of Harlem and the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater, earning a year early and did my undergraduate and master’s degrees at degrees in history from Columbia University and nonprofit manage- Juilliard. My first few years were difficult because the perception ➤ ment from Washington University in St. Louis along the way. 62 PHOTOGRAPHS BY XAVIER SCOTT MARSHALL BAZAAR

“I think a lot of what we do as MUSICIANS, as ARTISTS, as CREATIVE FORCES, is drive at the TRUTH.” JON BATISTE Above: Brunello Cucinelli suit, $5,695, and tie, $245; 212-334-1010. Winnie shirt, $395; ssense.com. Top right: Ami shirt, $395, and trousers, $640; amiparis.com. Paul Stuart suspenders, $89; 212-682-0320. Victor Glemaud dress, $565; glemaud.com. Alighieri earrings, $295; alighieri .com. Bottom right: Alberta Ferretti top, $1,615, and shorts, $530; neimanmarcus.com. Agmes earrings, $630; agmesnyc.com. Chanel belt, $1,125; 800-550-0005. Following page: Selina King bangle, $310; selinaking.com. 04/22

VOICES IN CONVERSATION of what a person like me represents in the institution of the arts “pointe” class or “allegro,” which is big jumps and turns, because wasn’t so fully embraced or defined, even though there’s a lineage that’s what you’re doing. So many dancers have so many skills to of genius that’s unsung. We have to define ourselves as artists and explore but aren’t allowed because of the way that we have tradi- as people all the time, but then you have this added layer of insti- tionally taught ballet. We’re looking at that idea very closely—and tutional and societal perception that’s against you. As a kid in that not just in the training but in the work that we present. I want to environment, away from my family and everything I grew up around, make sure that choreographers of color, who have been so important there was an adjustment I had to make that I think made me who to the fabric of dance in this country and around the world, that I am. It was such an important thing to come up against. their voices are not left out and that we’re looking at music history AGM: We talk about equity, diversity, and inclusion. But we some- not just from a Western perspective. times don’t talk enough about belonging—especially for artists JB: The truth is that humanity is a broad spectrum. I think a lot who are trying to be their most authentic selves. Institutions of what we do as musicians, as artists, as creative forces, is drive often want to audition students and think of themselves almost at the truth. Today, that kind of work is sometimes perceived as like a company. progressive. It’s perceived as activism or as being a provocateur JB: It’s so interesting because that “company” mindset is really or coloring outside of the lines. But, really, the lines don’t exist. the antithesis of art, which is a superpower that’s most potent It’s just truth. That’s all that I’m trying to get at and what I think when individuals are most like themselves and empowered in has led me to exploring all these different spaces. their being. AGM: You’re constantly reinventing. AGM: Back when I was training, I was told, “You are an instrument JB: We’re constructing who we are every day: the way you pick up for a choreographer. You’re not supposed to speak. You don’t a fork; the speech patterns you grow up hearing and the way they question the person at the front of the room. You just do. And if change or stay the same or blend with the new things you’re hearing; you’re in pain or if your feet are bleeding, then you keep going. the clothes you choose to wear. Your view of the world and what That’s your job.” Thankfully, we don’t think that way anymore. that means to you as you experience losses and gains, as you have The work is so much more collaborative now. We’re training all these different ways of life that you can’t at all control happening dancers to be artistic generators, to think entrepreneurially and to you and for you and with you and against you. Reinvention is have skills outside of making poses for people. We’re doing that keeping pace with all that, with an eye toward perfection. because when you’re asked to learn that way, you have to bring AGM: A lot of times in dance, people notice the poses or big ideas yourself into the space. or big moves, but the most brilliant dancers understand transition. JB: Being able to give people what they want but 1,000 percent It’s not always about the place that you land—it’s how you transition on your own terms is the sweet spot. from one place to another. AGM: Dance, for me, is not about steps or positions or making JB: It’s like that with music too. That transition is everything, because pretty poses. It’s about being able to move into a space and shift when you’re in a space of improvisation, there’s no wrong way to the atmosphere. It’s really about the transference of energy from be. But it’s how you connect that moment to the next one that one person to another. I love to think of dance as a technology, constructs the story you’re telling over the course of the night. HB almost like scales and chords—building blocks that you can use to create other things. The history of classical ballet is fraught with discrimination, racism, and institutionalized challenges. But I want people to be able to step into their training and not feel that they have to fit into a certain box. We have so many students here who are gender nonbinary or fluid and dancers who don’t always identify with the look of their bodies. Well, dance is so much about the look, and the way classical ballet has been taught has always been gendered: Women dance en pointe, they dance in tutus and men do not, and then you had what was called “men’s class” for the men. But I want to teach dance as a technology, so if dancers want to take pointe, however they identify—if they want to learn to strengthen their feet and dance on their toes—then they can. Our ballet students are now required to take either “DANCE, for me, IS NOT about steps or positions or making PRETTY POSES. It’s about being able to MOVE into a SPACE and SHIFT the ATMOSPHERE.” ALICIA GRAF MACK 64 B A Z A A R

RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D. STYLIST: ANITA SALERNO. BUY NOW on NOW THAT YOU HAVE OUR APRIL ISSUE, GET READY TO SHOP IT. Look for the icon next to an item in HARPER’S BAZAAR: It means the item is available to buy on ShopBAZAAR.com—the online store brought to you by our editors. We’ve partnered with the best specialty boutiques, most coveted designers, and prestige beauty brands to present the must-have fashion and beauty edit of the season, in a shopping destination that’s open around the clock and around the world. →SHOPPING AT SHOPBAZAAR.COM IS EASIER THAN EVER. SCAN THE CODE WITH YOUR SMARTPHONE TO DISCOVER OUR EDITORS’ PICKS FROM THE BUZZIEST BRANDS. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM

VOICES ESSAY The BURDEN of Bearing WITNESS As a teenager in MISSISSIPPI, KIESE LAYMON watched FOOTAGE of POLICE beating RODNEY KING. On the 30TH ANNIVERSARY of the L.A. REBELLION, he tries to UNDERSTAND what he SAW. 66 ARTWORK BY GLENN LIGON BAZAAR

GLENN LIGON, RED HANDS #2, 1996, SILKSCREEN ON CANVAS, 52 3/4 IN x 60 3/4 IN (134 x 154.3 CM); PHOTO BY FARZAD OWRANG; © GLENN LIGON; I  n March 1991, I wrote about watching 17 police officers paid about what my mother said when I walked into the house that COURTESY THE ARTIST, HAUSER & WIRTH, NEW YORK, REGEN PROJECTS, LOS ANGELES, THOMAS DANE GALLERY, LONDON, AND CHANTAL CROUSEL, PARIS to protect and serve watch four other officers paid to protect night. I wrote about what my mother did to my body when I walked and serve almost kill a man named Rodney King. I watched into the house that night. I wrote about feeling like I deserved the video at a friend’s house in a Jackson, Mississippi, neighbor- to be beaten for decisions I’d been making in Jackson, decisions hood called Presidential Hills. There were four of us, all Black that could have easily led to 17 officers watching four officers boys, standing in front of what was then the biggest television I’d almost beat me to death. ever seen in my life. That night, I didn’t craft an essay or even a paragraph. On the back of a trigonometry test I’d failed, I wrote, For over 30 years, I’ve written about, written through, the “They all just watched.” experience of watching 17 police officers paid to protect and serve watch four police officers paid to protect and serve beat a chained I was 16 years old. Black human being damn near to death. I did not describe the particularities of the officers who watched. I did not describe the blows to King’s forehead, ribs, They all just watched. legs, neck, eyes, and arms. I did not describe the cars that slowed down to watch before continuing down the road. I did not describe AS WE NEAR THE 30TH ANNIVERSARY of the Los Angeles how I felt. I could not describe the way Rodney King ran. rebellion, I find myself, for the first time in 30 years, afraid to They all just watched. All four of us had seen folks beaten up, shot, stabbed, and write or teach what I know. I no longer show the video of those stomped out at concerts. But in every one of those scenes, those seeings, someone somewhere always came to the person’s defense. 17 officers watching those four officers almost kill Rodney King By 16, we knew we had to make ourselves meek, small, subservient, docile, and grateful to survive encounters with the police, white in my classrooms. I seldom even describe the scene or the seeing. mobs, white teachers if we wanted to make it home to Mama, Grandmama, and them. I let my students know that it is more than okay to not watch We knew, just 150 miles from where we watched those 17 police watch Rodney King run, Emmett Till was murdered for things that will make them sad. being Emmett Till. Ninety miles from where we watched those 17 police officers watch one of their own almost kill, Fannie Lou I do not let them know that in my lifetime, there was not a Hamer was beaten damn near to death in a Winona jail for being Fannie Lou Hamer. We knew that 21 years earlier, five miles from more “triggering” or “traumatic” space than the American class- where we watched those 17 officers watch Rodney King beg for his life, police shot up a dorm at Jackson State University, where my room precisely because my teachers refused to thoroughly engage parents went to school, killing two students and injuring 12 others. They all just watched. with the violence that shaped how we talked, where we sat, if The next day, at Saint Joseph Catholic School, we had mass. The school was slightly majority Black, and very few of the Black we listened. I do not do this work anymore because of what I’ve students I loved were actually Catholic. When the father said, “We offer each other a sign of peace,” I made sure to dap up every Black seen and what I know about myself, not because our students student in mass, crossing aisles to find those who were not close enough to dap. That was our sign of peace. White students, some supposedly lack the resilience or because they are more in tune of whom were my friends, did not get a sign of peace from me that day, and I was sent to the principal’s office for this transgression. with their mental-health needs than we were. I don’t remember what happened in that principal’s office. I know I was not asked to describe how I felt about watching police almost I believe, more than ever, we need to really sit in and reckon beat a man to death to the principal, nor a school counselor, nor any teacher at that school. and remember what it meant to watch 17 police officers watch They all just watched. In April 1992, just hours after those four police officers were four police officers almost kill an unarmed Black human being on found not guilty of what those 17 other officers all saw them do, I wrote about watching Reginald Denny, a truck driver in Los video. We need to really sit in the scenes, the seeings, and consider Angeles, get pulled from his truck and beaten by a number of men who were not paid to protect or serve. I wondered about how we made it over—if we made it over—because of those seeings. the men who intervened and possibly saved Denny’s life that day. All I wrote was, “I am glad they did not all watch.” But I am afraid to teach like this anymore. In 2017, as a 42-year-old Black man, for a book called Heavy, I wrote about what else happened the day we watched those 17 As much as I want to claim this shift in pedagogy is about officers watch those four officers almost kill Rodney King. I wrote my students and their protection, it’s really partially because I am an old cowardly man who’d rather watch my students use clever phraseology to disengage than soulful communication to fully engage with what a lifetime of scenes and seeings of Black death have done to the insides of our bodies, our body politic, and our classrooms. Though I am afraid of showing scenes and seeings of Black death to my students, they are not afraid of talking to me, with vigor, about the traumas and catastrophes of their lives. And I appreciate that. But that appreciation does not make me less cowardly. For the first time in my teaching career, my students could be my children. They are watching and becoming in a world where white power is daintily called “white privilege,” where engineered racial humiliation at work or school is called a “microaggression.” We have made a nation for them filled with Americans left and right of center who have butchered the so-called Awakenings our parents’ parents fought, organized, and died for, making “woke,” the literal act of being awakened/no longer asleep, into a pejorative. Our watching made this nation. And now we want to protect our children from what our watching made, without taking respon- sibility for the making. That is what old cowards do. But there is something else. (Continued on page 142) 04/22 67

VOICES AS TOLD TO LIFE’S Work Better Things creator and star PAMELA ADLON on how the show gave her an OPPORTUNITY to REINVENT some things about the way HOLLYWOOD operates—both on screen and off B efore creating my series, Better Things, in 2016, I was always as a person in the world. I have always tried to make sure that the CATHERINE SERVEL/TRUNK ARCHIVE only ever just an actor. Now I write, direct, and star in my stories are universal. Everybody’s got something that they can own show, which is both a relief and an enormous amount relate to in the show. of pressure. If there’s anything anyone can learn from my story, it’s don’t do just one thing; don’t put all your eggs into one basket. I was the first one in my friend group to have kids, and That’s what I would tell the 20-year-old me: “Don’t wait for the I was kind of on my own. I didn’t have a North Star figurehead as phone to ring for acting jobs. Go live your fucking life right now. a mother. My mother is different. She’s from England and grew Do other things.” up during the war and was not forthcoming with information. I would go to these Mommy & Me classes, and I would feel bad WITH BETTER THINGS, I want to set a new example of how that I couldn’t fit in. But that was just me—in school, in work, in people should be treated on sets. I remember one big network life. So I was able to gather all of those raw feelings and put them show that I was a guest star on, there was just this enormous into the stories in the show, into these characters. waste of money and time. It was my first instance of ever hearing the term “Fraterday,” which is when you arrive on set on Friday When we first started filming Better Things, it was a huge afternoon and shoot all the way through until Saturday morning. change for me because people had to listen to me on set. Then I’d I reported to work at 3 p.m. on a Friday, and I was wrapped at come home to my three kids, who didn’t give two shits about what 4 a.m. Saturday. I remember this feeling of cold water going I said. That dichotomy is hilarious in and of itself. Even in the through my body and thinking, “Don’t these people have chil- pilot episode, Sam is living her life and punching a time card, dren or lives? Because I do. I don’t want work to be like this.” and when she gets home she’s pulling the trash cans in. She’s As long as there’s a patriarchy, that type of behavior will always cleaning the house. That was me. I was doing all this dirty shit continue to exist. on Californication. I was doing voices for Disney’s Tinker Bell movies. And then I was doing all my other animation work, like One thing that really resonated with me was when an actor voice work on King of the Hill, and I would come home and all would direct an episode of a show or a movie I was doing. It of a sudden I’m everybody: I’m the housekeeper, I’m the cook, was a singular experience. I felt really taken care of. I felt excited I’m the mom, the cops—all of it. So when I’m on set, it feels really about the process, and I wasn’t intimidated. Most directors can good to be in control. be extremely intimidating in an aggressive way. I KNEW THAT SEASON FIVE OF BETTER THINGS was going At one point in my career, I was filming Californication while to be the last, so I had to make it count. A big theme in the show I was doing an arc on Boston Legal. On Boston Legal, they would is the connection people have to their history. Ephemera is a big shoot two episodes at the same time. I couldn’t even wrap my theme, and people are ephemera. It’s a little bit existential, but brain around that! And they always had three hot pots going for it’s not obnoxious. Our minds were cracked open because of the the crew. I was always taking notes, because I was like, “One day, pandemic, and so I started asking myself, “How do I tell this story? I’m going to have a show, and I’m going to feed the shit out of Do we have everybody dealing with Covid?” my crew.” Finally, we decided not to directly address Covid but to talk Those things seem very fundamental, but for me it’s always about the emotions that came with it. During the pandemic, every- been about collaboration and feeling happy on a set. Better Things body started feeling, like, “I miss my family, and I want to go back has been incredible because I’ve been able to promote staff and to basics.” These feelings are the result of having lived through people are able to think bigger for themselves. the world shutting down and wanting so desperately for us all to take a cue and adapt and change and be better. All of those things When I originally pitched Better Things, I told the network, really fortified and enriched the stories this season. I reject the FX, that I wanted to elevate the mundane. It really was about me idea that this was not an important reset for humanity. HB trying to make sense of my life as a single mom and my experiences 68 B A Z A A R

If there’s anything ANYONE can LEARN from my STORY, it’s DON’T do just ONE THING; DON’T put all your EGGS into ONE BASKET.

NEWS EDITED BY ALISON S. COHN OFF the GRID TEXT BY CHANTAL FERNANDEZ / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREA SPOTORNO

How the UNDER-THE-RADAR Parisian label CRISTASEYA, a favorite of SOFIA COPPOLA and RASHIDA JONES, is REDEFINING what it means to SUCCEED IN FASHION FOR A CERTAIN TYPE OF WOMAN with rarefied taste, Rue made in collaboration with artisans from Greece and Italy. Ambroise Thomas is not just a quiet Parisian dead-end street. But Cristaseya stands apart for more than its rich Italian Up on the first floor of number 7, unmarked from the outside, devotees of crisp cotton-poplin shirts and crewneck cashmere fabrics and comfortable Japanese-influenced silhouettes. In an sweaters find a cozy mecca. Decorated with abstract ceramics and era dominated by global luxury brands and designer upstarts pared-down wooden furnishings, the atelier of the decade-old desperate to scale, Cristaseya’s restraint and rejection of trends label Cristaseya feels more like an apartment than a store or studio. and traditional retail models are almost revolutionary. This is not the type of brand to splurge on a celebrity ad campaign or be “You’re never rushed, because it’s not a shop [where] someone stocked in department stores. If you haven’t heard of Cristaseya is selling you something,” says Sarah de Mavaleix, a stylist and before, it’s partially by design. cofounder of The Skirt Chronicles, a Parisian style magazine. “You can just come and have tea and touch the most amazing knitwear.” The brand evokes a feeling of intimacy, owing in large part to the tight-knit family behind it. Founder Cristina Casini and her New York designer and retailer Maryam Nassirzadeh likens husband, photographer Andrea Spotorno, lead it together, and the the atelier to the kind of home that might be featured in the famed editions are inspired by their Italian culture and their travels. The magazine The World of Interiors, with collections of the label’s label produces much of its knitwear at Casini’s mother’s factory, ceramic collaborations lining the bench underneath tall front Maglierie Cristina, in the Italian province of Reggio Emilia, and windows, propping doors open, or dotting straw accent carpets. its fabrics are often custom. Longtime collection director and “It just really embodies the world [of the brand],” she says. designer Wonji Hong frequently models in the edition images, all shot by Spotorno. The small team creates its pieces not for a Since 2013, Cristaseya has been quietly and carefully turning fantasy of a customer but for themselves. out roomy wardrobe staples like languid suits and sharp trench coats. Its pieces arrive not in the form of seasonal collections but As such, the label has cultivated a loyal following, and thanks in twice-yearly “editions.” The label offers more than ready-to- to its genderless shapes, the collection is for not just women ➤ wear too, including jewelry, sculptures, and home goods, often From Edition #18, Spring 2022

NEWS CRISTASEYA but anyone with the confidence to wear oversize layers and the curiosity to seek out something made with an almost obsessive consideration. It makes sense, then, that Cristaseya’s fans are the type of creative people—leading stylists, artists, directors, and designers—who are powerful arbiters of taste in a predigital sense. You won’t see Cristaseya tagged frequently on Instagram, but if you’re paying attention you’ll spot its pieces in the racks of guiding boutiques or hear it mentioned by a particularly sophisticated friend. That’s how filmmaker Sofia Coppola first learned about Cristaseya a few years ago. She was on a shoot with makeup artist Lucia Pica, who was wearing one of its sweaters, and was intrigued. “It’s so rare, nowadays, that there are brands that you can’t get everywhere,” says Coppola, who spent the pandemic lockdown in Cristaseya’s lightweight striped cotton pajama sets. As a lifelong uniform dresser who favors men’s shirts, crewneck sweaters, and slacks, Coppola was immediately drawn to Cristaseya’s separates, and she says the line’s elegant loungewear is particularly suited to pandemic living or vacations. After initially buying the label online, Coppola finally visited the atelier in person during a trip to Paris last year. “The cut just feels relaxed and nice,” she says. “I love the matching sets because they feel like pajamas, but you can actually wear them out and look put together.” One of Coppola’s friends, actor and director Rashida Jones, says the label became “a complete and utter fixation during lockdown.” Her favorite pieces from the brand also include the pajama sets, plus dresses made in the same breezy cotton fabric, as well as the thick denim jeans and wool sweaters. “It’s casual in a Parisian way, which is very different than an L.A. way—and that is always what I’m aspiring to,” says Jones, describing the difference as an assured confidence. “In L.A., there’s a lot of wardrobe performance. And Cristaseya doesn’t have that.” Cristaseya has remained under the radar, kind of like one of those hidden-gem restaurants that you don’t want to tell anyone about for fear that it gets too popular and the magic disappears. That’s how Casini likes it. The former stylist, who moved to Paris from Milan in 2005, is press shy and disinterested in the conventions of the fashion system. “The aim has never been and will never be to make more and more money,” she says. Instead, it’s “to get to a safe financial point where we can all have a nice life and continue working with passion, traveling, going to the restaurants that we like, and having fun—me and all my team.” What that means is that Cristaseya has remained small and rare. While the label is no longer quite the “little secret” it was when de Mavaleix first discovered it, “it has that image still for me,” she says. The ethos remains. Casini started Cristaseya a decade ago with a partner, Keiko Seya, who has since left the business. They were both stylists without any design experience, but they were bored by the never-ending stream of new trends accelerated by social media and fast fashion. They decided to create a label together that had Spreads from Cristaseya’s retrospective book. From top: Edition #10, Spring 2018 (left), and Edition #15, Fall 2020 (right); a commitment to quality materials and shapes that could last in Edition #13, Fall 2019 (left), and Edition #8, Spring 2017 (right); Edition #10, Spring 2018 (left), and Edition #14, Spring 2020 (right). your closet for years. (Continued on page 143) 72 B A Z A A R



NEWS FASHION AND CULTURE UPCYCLED materials are at the center of a TRIO SECOND of new EARTH MONTH Life DESIGNER DROPS THE REALREAL RECOLLECTION 03 SHIRT AND POLO RALPH LAUREN JACKET: RICHARD MAJCHRZAK/STUDIO D; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS; BOOKS: COURTESY THE PUBLISHERS The resale platform’s latest upcycled collec- tion features damaged, torn, or stained luxury pieces that have been entirely reimagined by in-house designer (and alum of the Row) Anna Sophia Hövener. Pants are transformed into tops, and men’s suits are tailored into cropped sets, keeping clothing that might ordinarily end up in a landfill in circulation. MAISON MARGIELA RUBBER 5AC Maison Margiela creative director John Galliano is taking the brand’s commitment to using ecofriendly materials one step further, refabricating his signature Maison Margiela 5AC bag in biodegradable rubber. The top-handle style is available in primary shades of Delft blue, yellow, and red, with a recycled cotton lining in a cheerful windowpane print. CHLOÉ X OCEAN SOLE The models in Chloé’s Spring 2022 show can say they’ve literally walked a mile in someone else’s shoes, thanks to environmentally conscious creative director Gabriela Hearst’s collaboration with the Kenyan enterprise Ocean Sole, which aims to reclaim and reuse plastic waste. Her colorful Lou platforms are molded from melted-down flip-flops scavenged from beaches and waterways. Above, clockwise from top left: The RealReal ReCollection 03 shirt, $210; therealreal.com. Maison Margiela 5AC bag, $1,740; 212-989-7612. Chloé x Ocean Sole flip-flop, $595; chloe.com. Opposite page: Polo Ralph Lauren Exclusively for Morehouse and Spelman Colleges varsity jacket, $598; ralphlauren.com. AFRICA: THE FASHION LEE ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, PAOLA PIVI, EDITED BY CONTINENT, EDITED BY CLARISSA JUSTINE LUDWIG BY EMMANUELLE M. ESGUERRA AND Curator and writer Ludwig COURRÈGES MICHAELA HANSEN explores the colorful world Paris-based fashion journal- The exhibition catalog for “Lee of Italian multimedia artist ist Courrèges, who was born Alexander McQueen: Mind, Paola Pivi. Best known for and raised in West Africa, Mythos, Muse,” opening April her Instagrammable instal- travels from Fashion Week 24 at the Los Angeles County lations of life-size, brightly in Lagos to music festivals Museum of Art, pairs 70 of hued, feathered polar bears, in Nairobi and the streets of the late British designer’s Pivi incorporates sculpture, Johannesburg to meet the designers, photogra- looks with textiles, decorative arts, paintings, video, photography, and performance into her phers, stylists, artists, and other creatives, like sculptures, prints, and photographs from LACMA’s practice. April is a big month for Pivi: She has a Thebe Magugu, Stephen Tayo, Abrima Erwiah, permanent collection. The result is a portrait of solo show opening at the Andy Warhol Museum and Laetitia Ky, who are shaping a new visual his diverse range of influences, including 17th- in Pittsburgh on April 22 and will unveil a 16-foot- language that combines a rich cultural heritage century Dutch paintings, Goya prints, and Andreas tall replica of the Statue of Liberty with an emoji with a contemporary global outlook. (Flammarion) Gursky photos. (Delmonico Books/LACMA) face at New York’s High Line. (Phaidon) 74 B A Z A A R





CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT, JAMEL SHABAZZ, WHEN TWO WORLDS MEET, FORT GREENE, BROOKLYN, 2010: COURTESY THE ARTIST; RALPH LEMON, UNTITLED, 2021, OIL AND POLO RALPH ACRYLIC ON PAPER, 26 × 40 IN (66.1 × 101.6 CM): IMAGE COURTESY THE ARTIST; WOODY DE OTHELLO, STUDY FOR THE WILL TO MAKE THINGS HAPPEN, 2021: IMAGE COURTESY LAUREN X MOREHOUSE THE ARTIST, JESSICA SILVERMAN, SAN FRANCISCO, AND KARMA, NEW YORK; KANDIS WILLIAMS, SKETCHES FOR INSTALLATION OF DEATH OF A, 2021: COURTESY THE ARTIST & SPELMAN Featuring baseball jackets, varsity knits, and tailored blazers, Ralph Lauren’s first official college apparel drop marries his love for collegiate style with the rich histories and sartorial tradi- tions of two great American HBCUs. “JAMEL SHABAZZ: EYES ON THE STREET” “WHITNEY BIENNIAL 2022: QUIET AS IT’S KEPT” Celebrating the 40-year career of one of New York’s most The latest edition of the long-running biennial survey at New York’s influential street-style photographers, this retrospective at the Bronx Museum of the Arts opens April 6 as part of the cultural Whitney Museum of American Art, exploring cultural and institution’s 50th-anniversary celebration. It showcases Brooklyn- social issues animating contemporary art in the U.S., takes its title born Shabazz’s vibrant and candid portraits, which chronicle from a phrase invoked by novelist Toni Morrison, jazz drummer life in the five boroughs over a span of decades. Max Roach, and artist David Hammons. The exhibition, opening April 6, serves as a rumination on the harmful effects of secrecy and silence. Co-organized by David Breslin and Adrienne Edwards, the show spotlights 63 artists and collectives across a range of disciplines and media, including Ralph Lemon, Woody De Othello, and Kandis Williams, as it looks at the impact of the ongoing global pandemic, racial and economic inequity, and polarizing politics. THE GO-BETWEEN, THE CANDY HOUSE, TIME IS A MOTHER, BY OSMAN YOUSEFZADA BY JENNIFER EGAN BY OCEAN VUONG Set in the 1980s and ’90s, this A meditation on connection In this follow-up to On Earth coming-of-age story from and privacy in the age of We’re Briefly Gorgeous, his British designer and artist social media, this new novel acclaimed debut novel, Vuong Yousefzada examines the dual- from Pulitzer Prize winner returns with a collection of ities of his childhood as a son Egan centers on tech titan Bix poetry that delves into the of Afghan-Pakistani immigrants Bouton, who invents a platform process of healing in the wake living in Birmingham, England. that allows people to download of his mother’s death. As he Recounting the tribulations of their personal memories and explores his feelings of enduring racism, the strict gender roles within his conser- then upload them onto the cloud in exchange love and immense loss, the desire to grieve in vative Pashtun patriarchal community, and the for access to those of other users. Alternating the present, and the necessity to move forward clashing ideologies of his cultural heritage and between narratives of the technology’s supporters toward a brighter future, Vuong also touches Western school teachings, the author stitches and detractors, the book delves into the dangerous on the racial and sexual prejudices he has together a heart-wrenching portrait of what it’s possibilities of our innovative yet image-obsessed experienced as a queer Vietnamese immigrant. like to live in the seams. (Canongate Books) culture. (Scribner) (Penguin Press) HB 04/22 BY ALISON S. COHN AND ARIANA MARSH

NEWS FROM LEFT: ASSAF PINCHUK PHOTOGRAPHY/COURTESY SIX SENSES; FREDRIKA STJARNE FOR SHOU SUGI BAN HOUSE; COURTESY MIRAVAL BERKSHIRES THE EYE HAS TO TRAVEL WELLNESS Rebooted In the BEFORE TIMES, a trip to a SPA or RETREAT might have seemed INDULGENT or WOO-WOO. These days, it feels like a MIND-CLEARING NECESSITY. SLEEP: Six Senses Ibiza BREATHE: Miraval Berkshires A fter two years of isolation and the you at a cellular level.” The Sacred Sound attendant anxiety, many of us need Journey there weaves together vibrational a head-to-toe realignment. “There frequencies from tuning forks, gongs, was so much disconnection during the and Himalayan and crystal singing bowls last two years that there is now a mental- (instruments with resonance your body can health epidemic,” says Anna Bjurstam, feel) for a grounding experience. Guests who heads up the wellness program at Six SOUND: Shou Sugi Ban tilt their heads back in a pool a few inches Senses Hotels Resorts Spas. Luckily, spas House, Water Mill, New York under water so their ears are covered and and retreats are branching out far beyond listen to sounds like musical chants and massages to focus on new treatments to destress and restore. dolphins whistling as part of the Float Your Troubles Away SLEEP My story was similar to many in this pandemic era: treatment at the Six Senses property in Portugal’s Douro Valley. sleep deprivation, sluggishness from hunching over my laptop, BREATHE Breathwork, used in yoga to release stress, has and dry, dull skin. At the Well at Mayflower Inn & Spa in Litchfield been around for thousands of years, and recently it’s become a County, Connecticut, a health coach suggested the Full-Body popular offering at wellness retreats. Mark Gerow, a trauma- Reboot (dry brushing, a clay body wrap, a lymphatic massage), informed spiritual coach, has created a series of breathwork followed by light energy work—specifically, craniosacral therapy. classes at Miraval Berkshires in Lenox, Massachusetts, for guests As my therapist gently touched different points on my body, “looking for deeper healing.” His Syncing Breath and Sound: A my right leg started to jolt involuntarily, and there was tingling Neurodynamic Breathwork Journey starts with dynamic breathing warmth in my feet. I soon fell into a light nap, my first in years. cycles. In tandem, participants listen to a selection of music as At Six Senses Ibiza, better sleep begins with a journal; each Gerow leads them through a guided meditation. “As people start guest is given one to write down any worries before bed. “The focusing on their breath, they can slow down their body and number-one obstacle for good sleep is stress,” says Bjurstam. open up the unconscious,” he says. At Sensei Lanai, a partnership “If you write it down, maybe you’re able to let it go.” The resort between Sensei, the wellness company founded by Oracle is known to drill down on the topic with multiday retreats, like cofounder Larry Ellison and physician David Agus, and Four the five-day Solving the Mystery of Your Sleep with L.A.-based Seasons, practitioners use data to optimize guests’ health outcomes. clinical psychologist Michael Breus. In their Mindset 1:1 with Biomarkers private sessions, a biofeed- SOUND Jodie Webber, the creative director and head of back device is used to measure a guest’s heart-rate variability healing arts at Shou Sugi Ban House, a Japanese-inspired wellness throughout to show how emotions influence things like heart sanctuary in Water Mill, Long Island, says, “Sound can get to rhythm and the nervous system. HB 78 TEXT BY MAURA EGAN BAZAAR

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BEAUTY THE ART AND SCIENCE OF LOOKING AND FEELING YOUR BEST SCENTS of PLACE We’re all spending more time AT HOME. Find the right scent and ENHANCE the ENERGY of YOUR SPACE. 04/22 PHOTOGRAPH BY HORACIO SALINAS / TEXT BY JESSICA MATLIN 81

BE A U T Y DESK DUTY Give your workspace a little atmosphere with a Byredo Cotton Poplin Scented Fan ($150). Available in three scents (try the leathery Bibliothèque option), this dramatic piece comes with a wooden holder for display. JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D OBJET D’ART Part decor, part very A FINE MIST Editions de Parfums fancy French air freshener, the Un Air Frédéric Malle Perfume Gun in de Diptyque diffuser ($350) works Jurassic Flower ($195) brings the with Diptyque’s cartridges, which are scent of lush French florals into available in the brand’s most popular your home. Juicy citrus, blooming scents. Go for Baies or 34 Boulevard magnolia trees, and just a hint Saint Germain ($50 each). of lavender fill the air. MAGIC IN THE AIR The ScentFluence HOT ROCKS Place these Bastide Ambre d’Or Sleek Diffuser ($75) pairs with the brand’s Potpourri Crystals ($80) in your prettiest little dish. They look gorgeous and give off a sweet library of oils ($18 each). (We love Child’s but fresh scent that feels right for any room. Pose and Fireside, the scent of New York’s Baccarat Hotel.) Available in six colors. Caroline Fabrigas was in a bind. Her company, Scent and all of its 1 Hotel candles. “At home, fragrance is a way for Marketing Inc, creates custom fragrances for luxury us to create moments,” says Fabrigas. “It creates sensory cues retailers and resorts around the globe (its most famous throughout the day.” commission is the 1 Hotel in Miami’s warm, woodsy blend), but in March 2020, nearly all of her clients pressed pause on their proj- Last year, sales of home scents grew by more than 20 percent, ects. Fabrigas found herself stuck in her hometown of Scarsdale, according to market-research company the NPD Group. The New York, surrounded by hundreds of gallons of high-quality obsession isn’t waning, says Justin Welch, creative marketing direc- oils with nowhere to go. The entrepreneur quickly set up a little tor for the fragrance company Firmenich. “Fragrance is no longer pop-up called ScentFluence Aroma Design Studio, where she a noun, it’s an action,” he says. When Welch evaluates a blend, sold the surplus oils, candles, and diffusers. Within two months he doesn’t just ask himself, “Is this pretty?” He also asks, “What of opening, the shop sold out of top scents, like Spiritual Woods will this do for my mood?” Every scent here was chosen because it has the ability to shift your energy, elevate your space, or both. 82 B A Z A A R

CANDLES HAVE BECOME AN OBSESSION, says Linda G. Levy, EXPENSIVE TASTE Since 2014, president of the Fragrance Foundation. While the medium is hardly Maison Francis Kurkdjian Paris new, it’s evolved way beyond being a stuffy status hostess gift. Picking up on trends that are happening in the worlds of food, Baccarat Rouge 540 Eau de perfume, hospitality, celebrity, and even TikTok, the best candles Parfum has been shorthand don’t just give good scent, they give us something to chat about—a for extravagance, but this year sense of fun and novelty. “At dinner, I choose a candle and my TikTok—and a mention on Gossip husband, Steve, chooses the wine,” says Levy, who is obsessed Girl—is giving the fragrance with founder-led companies like Boy Smells and Harlem Candle a second life. Reinvented as a Co., which have not only unexpected scent combinations but also candle ($110), the sweet, woodsy a story behind them. blend is worth the splurge. CENTER: FERNANDO GOMEZ/TRUNK ARCHIVE; STILL LIFE: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D. = BUY ON SHOPBAZAAR.COM GARDEN VARIETIES Another big trend in home fragrance? Vegetal scents. Malin + Goetz helped create this category with its Tomato Candle ($58), and few have improved on it. MAJOR FLAVOR Right now, it’s all about a daring palette, says Welch. P.F. Candle Co.’s Black Fig ($20) combines evergreen and fig. It’s delicious. CHILL ZONE “Cold spices give a sense of energy and bring you back to a state of consciousness,” says Welch. Boy Smells Hinoki Fantôme ($32; shopBAZAAR .com ) is cool and earthy. SPA BREAK Nest Fragrances founder Laura Slatkin was inspired by the scent of the spa at the Beverly Hills Hotel when dreaming up this Wild Mint & Eucalyptus candle ($74). NIGHT ON THE TOWN The Harlem Candle Co.’s Speakeasy ($98) is an invitation to take a trip back in time. Chocolate, incense, and tobacco notes evoke the sort of energy that jumps off the candleholder’s 1930s illustration, “A Night-Club Map of Harlem” by E. Simms Campbell. COASTAL WALK With swamp rose, mallow, STAR SCENT Courteney Cox is bypassing the moss, and creeping bent grass, D.S. & Durga celebrity beauty line and diving into home care with Salt Marsh Rose ($65) recalls a long, lazy Homecourt, which includes scented countertop walk on Cape Cod on a warm July day. mists, hand wash, and candles. Each comes in four fragrances: Cipres Mint, Steeped Rose, Neroli SACRED RITUAL Costa Brazil Vela Candle ($165) Leaf, and Cece, Cox’s signature scent, a blend of is infused with breu resin from Brazil. Brand cardamom, cinnamon, and leather ($50 each). HB founder (and former Calvin Klein designer) Francisco Costa chose this signature ingredient 83 not just because it has a beautiful, singular scent but also for its mood-enhancing powers.

BEAUTY FRESH START Get Your BEST SMILE FROM TINY TWEAKS to A COMPLETE MAKEOVER, DENTISTS weigh in on WHAT REALLY WORKS (RE)MASTER THE BASICS “The biggest mistake people make when YULIA GORBACHENKO/ART PARTNER LICENSING it comes to their teeth? Not flossing,” says cosmetic dentist Marc Lowenberg of New York’s Lowenberg, Lituchy & Kantor. “There isn’t one miracle product that would replace this step.” Flossing removes buildup, harmful bacteria, and plaque that can cause bad breath, and it helps prevent gingivitis, the breakdown of tooth enamel, and, in extreme cases, bone loss around the teeth. Also, pay attention to subconscious behaviors like nighttime grinding, which can lead to tooth fractures or aggravate TMJ (which causes pain in the bone, muscles, and connective tissues around the jaw). If that’s an issue, Cordoves recommends investing in a night guard that’s been molded by a dentist, ensuring a perfect fit. BRIGHTEN UP For a whiter smile, Lowenberg loves the Zoom! Power Whitening treatment, an in-office service that uses high- intensity LED and hydrogen peroxide to remove stains. To prevent sensitivity, brush with Sensodyne for at least a week before and after the procedure. Still, keep expectations in check: Everyone has a natural limit to how bright their teeth can get. Before investing in a pro treatment, try Crest 3DWhitestrips Professional Effects ($44.99). Used for 30 minutes a day over the course of 20 days, these strips impart a mild but prolonged dose of hydrogen peroxide to gradually lift stains. A gentler option: vVardis Aletsch whitening serum ($149), which uses natural mineral crystals to brighten without hydrogen peroxide. W hen Michael Gulizio and Steven Cordoves, cofounders GET IN LINE For years, the gold standard for getting a straighter of the New York dental practice Core Smiles, reopened smile—without traditional braces—has been Invisalign. The clear after lockdown, they had their work cut out for them. aligner trays that slowly shift teeth require dedication, since users Patients came in with problems ranging from gingivitis (a mild wear them for around 20 hours a day for six to 18 months. While form of gum disease), which can be a result of missed cleanings, cheaper direct-to-consumer options are popping up, be sure to to complaints of teeth grinding, a result of pandemic-related work with a dentist if going this route. “The most important part stress. Of course, some people just wanted to feel better of any type of aligner treatment is making sure the patient has about their smiles. “Now that we’re always staring at ourselves good periodontal health, and these products often don’t take on-screen, we’re more aware of our appearance, including our that into consideration,” says Gulizio. teeth,” says Cordoves. Between 2020 and 2021, there was a 21 percent increase in mentions of dental-care products on GLEAM ON A dramatic way to alter the look of your teeth is porce- Twitter. (“Mask breath” is a concern, per market-research firm lain veneers, thin layers of a ceramic that are adhesively bonded to NetBase Quid.) If improving your smile is on your list, read on the front of them. A full set can be completed in as little as two visits. for changes you can make—big or small. Gaps and differently shaped teeth make for signature smiles, but for those who want an adjustment, veneers can address misalign- ment and discoloration and completely change the shape of teeth. While veneers once had a reputation for looking like Chiclets, the most realistic versions now are handmade out of feldspathic porcelain. “Feldspathic veneers are far more translucent than pressed ceramic veneers and reflect the light,” says Lowenberg. HB 84 BY JAMIE WILSON BAZAAR



BEAUTY ON TREND Straight FLUSH Nothing brings a COMPLEXION THE FASHION EDITOR: ANATOLLI SMITH. MODEL: AZU NWOGU; HAIR: SHIN ARIMA FOR ORIBE; MAKEUP: MARCELO GUTIERREZ FOR NARS; STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS to LIFE faster than BLUSH. BRUSHES THE BLUSHES Gutierrez used Nars Blush in Here’s how to get this season’s Apply using one Desire ($30, above). Other cool pinks: Rare Beauty STATEMENT CHEEKS. with a fluffy head, Soft Pinch Liquid Blush in Happy ($20), Rituel de Fille BLUSH JUST MAY BE THE MOST UNDERRATED COSMETIC. “It instantly gives like the Hermès Inner Glow Crème Pigment in Rapture ($29), Fenty you a radiant, youthful glow,” says makeup artist Marcelo Gutierrez, who created Blush Brush ($100). Beauty Cheeks Out Freestyle Cream Blush in Crush on the look here. “To make it feel fresh, experiment with placement.” Try putting blush For a seamless look, on the high points of your cheekbones, where you’d typically put highlighter, he buff the edges with Cupid ($22), and Maybelline New York Cheek Heat says. It has a lifting effect. Too dramatic? Simply swirl it onto the apples of your Sheer Gel-Cream Blush in Pink Scorch ($7.99). cheeks, but give it a runway update by adding just a bit more color than usual. a slim, pointed As long as eyes and lips are subtle, rosy cheeks look super chic. HB applicator such as Proenza Schouler dress; similar styles at 212-420-7300. the Surratt Beauty Artistique Highlight Brush ($130). 86 TEXT BY KATIE INTNER / PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVEY ADÉSIDA BAZAAR

LOVE IS IN THE HAIR For those who know their beauty lies in their KP LYLUJLZ6.?PZ`V\\Y[Y\\Z[LKWHY[ULYMVY LUKSLZZOHPYJHYLWVZZPIPSP[PLZ DISCOVER OUR 30+ STANDOUT FORMULAS VN_ILH\\[`JVT

B E AUT Y NEWS CENTER: LIUBOV POGORELA/THE LICENSING PROJECT; PRESSED PIGMENT: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D; ALL OTHER STILL LIFE: COURTESY THE BRANDS RINSE AND REPEAT Two fresh picks for the season: Caswell- Massey Beatrix Rose Bath Soap ($11) softens as it cleanses with a rich plant-based formula. Also, the vintagey shape looks sweet next to the tub. For a liquid option, try leVerden Bamboo Forest Body Wash ($50), which imparts a soft patchouli scent that lingers in a good way. SPRING AHEAD The perfect way to mark winter’s end is Jo Malone London Sea Daffodil Cologne ($150). This creamy scent blend is laced with ylang ylang, sandalwood, and vanilla. GLOSS OVER IT The next best BY KATIE INTNER LIGHTEN UP Rose Inc thing to an in-salon glossing Hydration Replenish treatment is Pantene Pro-V Microencapsulated Moisturizer Color Enhance Boosters ($68) has microspheres ($3.47 each). With vitamin E, that burst upon application to deliver weightless hydration. these single-use tubes make a weeks-old dye job look fresh. BAZAAR Another option: Curlsmith Shine Oil ($29.99), which adds a high-shine, frizz-free finish. KEEP IT FRESH Want three ways to update your makeup? One: Add luminosity. (Try Gisou Honey Infused Lip Oil, $32, or Jones Road Shimmer Face Oil, $34.) Two: Throw on spring’s chicest red (Fenty Beauty Icon Semi-Matte Refillable Lipstick in the MVP, $20). Three: Sign up for Neen (weareneen.com), created by Stila founder Jeanine Lobell, which allows you to test product on a card (like this purple Pretty Shady Pressed Pigment in BRB, $25, for lips and cheeks). 88

COLLECT Them ALL The BEAUTY INDUSTRY enters the WILD WORLD of NFTs. But WHY? SARA SHAKEEL FOR NARS COSMETICS W hen Clinique Almost Lipstick in Black Honey exploded artists, including a music producer and a fashion designer, to on TikTok last fall, the sheer berry shade—which hadn’t each create an NFT (one is seen here) inspired by its best-selling seen that kind of popularity since the ’90s—was suddenly Orgasm blush. The brand made one NFT free, alongside $50 and out of stock everywhere. So Clinique created a limited-edition $500 versions. (The latter two came with limited-edition product.) digital version for its most forward-thinking fans. “If you couldn’t get “There was a tremendous amount of social conversation, not it in a store, you could own the NFT and get in on the experience,” only across the beauty space but in crypto communities,” says says Roxanne Barretto Iyer, Clinique’s vice president of global Fierro. More than 2,000 Orgasm NFTs were collected, and the consumer engagement. For a certain subset of beauty consumers, $500 one sold out in 10 minutes. a Black Honey NFT may not be wearable, but it has major value. Beauty launches are getting the NFT treatment too. Valdé Non-fungible tokens (NFTs), which are unique digital certif- Beauty recently released 34 crystal Armors (physical refill- icates that verify ownership of a specific digital asset, able lipstick vessels) that started out in the gaming are being sold exclusively and art worlds. While some in the metaverse, an online dismiss NFTs as a get-rich- world in which people can quick scheme, the beauty create avatars that can buy space isn’t too concerned and sell physical merchan- about the money right now. d i s e a n d N F Ts , a t t e n d “The use cases for NFTs virtual events, and more. are limitless,” says Dina These Armors come in three Fierro, vice president of styles (from white quartz global digital strategy and to amethyst, ranging from social engagement at Nars $1,200 to $2,500). Once Cosmetics. “Tokens allow bought in the metaverse, beauty brands to create, the physical Armors are nurture, and activate a sent to buyers. Each community and can serve as comes with NFT artwork, a loyalty mechanism, inviting 11 refillable lipsticks, and access through real-world or exclusive access to the virtual experiences, exclu- brand’s makeup artists via sive merchandise drops, and a chat room. While NFTs product co-creation.” are a foreign language to some, for beauty obses- In July of 2021, Nars sives it may be one worth commissioned three female learning. KATIE INTNER The No-Knife FACE-LIFT “Bridge” treatments are big news in beauty. “They are what we consider for The process takes 30 to 45 minutes, during which up to 8 percent of patients who need more than what the traditional noninvasive can offer but the skin in the treatment area (typically the mid to lower face) is removed who aren’t yet ready for invasive procedures like surgery or want to avoid at one time without leaving so much as a scar. Downtime is about three to them altogether,” says Paul Jarrod Frank, a cosmetic dermatologist in New four days, and as the skin heals from these injuries, it naturally contracts, York. Among the buzziest is Micro-Coring, a solution for those who seek tightens, and triggers collagen production. Patients will begin to notice firmer, firmer, tighter skin but no longer get results from treatments like microneedling, plumper skin and a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles after one session. fillers, and laser therapy. (Frank is one of the first U.S. providers to use Ellacor, the proprietary Micro-Coring device cleared by the FDA in 2021.) The recommended course of treatment is two or three procedures, each administered a month apart. The full benefits are visible two to How it works: Under the careful hand of a derm, registered nurse, physi- three months after the last visit. Frank believes the best results will be cian’s assistant, or nurse practitioner, the Ellacor device’s hollow needles on “presurgical patients”—those between 40 and 60 years old. While the create “micro-cores” (think tiny punch biopsies) less than a half millimeter in results are impressive, “it will never compare to a face-lift,” he says. “Nothing diameter, removing excess skin. (Local anesthesia is injected beforehand.) ever will.” JAMIE WILSON 04/22 89

ASTROLOGY ~ 3 ARIES SAGITTARIUS MARCH 21–APRIL 20 NOVEMBER 23–DECEMBER 21 Fresh beginnings will usher It won’t sit well with you in excitement but also when someone suggests that a creative idea will fail, a bit of anxiety, especially but don’t dwell on it. The at the start and finish of the project was inviting but not foolproof, and new sources month. Trust your skills of inspiration are nearby. to take you to places you LUCKY DAY: THE 16TH. barely recognize. Hearing both sides of a complex LUCKY DAY: THE 10TH. Opportunities arise, and you situation brings solutions. make the most of them. $ 6 ISTOCKPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES TAURUS CAPRICORN APRIL 21–MAY 21 DECEMBER 22–JANUARY 20 Group get-togethers will be Investing in your home or debated, and you’ll have the well-being of family will be rewarding, but what about strong views on the details. your needs? While you often While others may be willing sacrifice your own interests, to take chances on a shaky it’s vital that you strike a situation, call a halt on it balance, even if it isn’t easy. until safeguards are in place. LUCKY DAY: THE 2ND. LUCKY DAY: THE 20TH. By keeping plans simple, You start living life to the fullest rather than just surviving. you triumph. * ^ 1 7 GEMINI LEO LIBRA AQUARIUS MAY 22–JUNE 21 JULY 24–AUGUST 23 SEPTEMBER 24–OCTOBER 23 JANUARY 21–FEBRUARY 19 Ambition will steer you It may take weeks for poten- Domestic issues will be After all the effort you put toward something you know tial plans to get the green hampered by unwelcome into a challenging situation, light, and even then people interference. Don’t put up a you expected recognition, little about. Trust your fight. A diplomatic approach but the beneficiaries don’t instincts warning you to will want to discuss finances tread carefully; tell authority and other crucial factors. will earn support from seem to realize they’re figures you won’t sign on the those who will be happy to in your debt. Temper your dotted line until all relevant Make sure the heavy lifting frustration and subtly point information is revealed. and responsibility don’t fall help once you can take to you as they have before. back control of the situation. out your contributions. LUCKY DAY: THE 15TH. Tricky things simmer down, LUCKY DAY: THE 5TH. LUCKY DAY: THE 28TH. LUCKY DAY: THE 18TH. Perseverance in personal Discarding what is of no use Suddenly, a new direction and you perk up. matters proves invaluable. and purpose in life appear. or value pays off. ! ) | 9 CANCER VIRGO SCORPIO PISCES JUNE 22–JULY 23 AUGUST 24–SEPTEMBER 23 OCTOBER 24–NOVEMBER 22 FEBRUARY 20–MARCH 20 Intense pressure may have Be careful when sharing With business matters While fans support your marred a working relation- news. You sometimes offer demanding attention, you’ll latest extravagant idea, you’ll ship with a certain person in information before it’s been want help. It’s fine to delegate wonder if you should scale the past. When it’s suggested verified, causing problems, tasks, but be aware that some you join forces again, move people are tiring of doing it back. When a trusted and this time money, your work for you and would individual urges you to look forward—as long as the property, or somebody’s at things through a different finer points are disclosed. reputation may be involved. be justified in refusing. lens, you’ll find your answer. LUCKY DAY: THE 24TH. LUCKY DAY: THE 11TH. LUCKY DAY: THE 8TH. LUCKY DAY: THE 27TH. Admirers urge you to expand Changing circumstances permit You’re ready to accept a new An olive branch is offered, cycle that’s about to commence. your scope, to your benefit. you to make moves. to everybody’s delight. 90 APRIL PREDICTIONS BY PETER WATSON BAZAAR