Elle USA Vol. XXXVII №8 2022

New Arrivals LUDOVICO LAMBRI The SHOE Step into spring party season with Aquazzura’s Love Link sandal in turquoise grosgrain, trimmed with pavé rhinestone chains. Sandal, Aquazzura, $1,250, aquazzura.com. 40

JOEL VON ALLMEN The WATCH Just when you thought its Kelly timepiece couldn’t get more covetable, Hermès added 264 white diamonds and a gleaming steel band. Watch, Hermès, $5,975, hermes.com. 41

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Front Row Why Is EveryoneTwinning? FELICITY INGRAM/TRUNK ARCHIVE. Matching your friends used to be SCROLLING THROUGH the Instagram account @starter afauxpas. But in an increasingly packsofnyc feels like flipping through a pack of trading cards, ex- atomized world, it’s become a cept instead of stats, each archetype comes with outfits and drink bonding mechanism. orders. Resist all you want, but you’ll likely identify with one of the curated personalities on the feed. There I was in the binder, I realized: shearling-wearing, whole milk–drinking, Balthazar- dining, Lana Del Rey–listening, cozy-inclined woman. But it’s not shade. The account isn’t mocking the circles that it spoofs. The comments don’t suggest offense so much as delight- ed acknowledgment by fellow “teammates.” Why, in an era that places so much emphasis on unfettered self-expression, do we find such contrarian joy in looking like others? “People are hap- py to feel seen and be part of a cultural conversation, even if it’s not an entirely flattering one,” says the account’s founder, Sasha Mutchnik. “And we’ve been programmed to define ourselves by what we wear and buy…. So while it may seem counterintuitive, in our hyper-individualized world, to want to admit a collection

Front Row T W I N N I N G CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DRESS-ALIKE MOMENTS FROM PARIS AND NEW YORK of six to eight items is ‘literally me,’ it’s a way of saying you’re a FASHION WEEKS; PHOTOGRAPHER part of a group, and are, by extension, normal.” SHARIF HAMZA’S TAKE ON TWINNING; MATCHING AT MILAN FASHION WEEK. What starts as mere “twinning” expands into connection in a disconnected time. After a period of not being able to reach out IMAGE WITH BLUE AND YELLOW PANTS: IMAXTREE; IMAGE WITH PLAID OUTFITS: TYLER and touch each other, now we’re just a shared link away from em- JOE; MODELS WEARING BOWS: PHOTOGRAPHED BY SHARIF HAMZA/TRUNK ARCHIVE; bracing in matching clothes. We can lie on our separate beds, but TWINS WEARING FLORAL-PRINT JACKETS: CHRISTIAN VIERIG/GETTY IMAGES. stare into the same glowing light of our phones, learn the same skin care routines, order from the same vintage stores, watch the same shows—and then emerge into the real world and discuss those things with each other, while also looking like each other. The runways aren’t immune from this effect. Prada’s spring 2022 collection took place in both Milan and Shanghai—at the exact same time. Guests in both cities watched outfits come down the catwalk as their halfway-across-the-planet coun- terparts were projected onscreen. As co–creative director Raf Simons explained in the show’s press notes, “It’s about sharing— not just sharing imagery, not just sharing through technology, but sharing a physical event.” Meanwhile, “twinfluencers” Hope and Grace Fly and Reese and Molly Blutstein make showing up to Fashion Week in coordinating looks a virtue, not a gaffe. There is a sense that similar gates are being opened every- where, resulting in a mass decentralization of style. Mine is yours, yours is mine, and this whole planet is ours to match on. Influencers painstakingly credit their outfits so you too can “get “IT’S A WAY OF SAYING YOU’RE A PART OF A GROUP, AND ARE, BY EXTENSION, NORMAL.” —Sasha Mutchnik, @starterpacksofnyc the look” (and they can get the affiliate revenue). Newsletters like Jonah Weiner and Erin Wylie’s Blackbird Spyplane provide friendly sartorial suggestions for their thousands of readers. The common thread is generosity: indulging in the bounty of options, together. Sameness is no longer a taboo—it’s a form of bonding. My friend Krithika Varagur had a group text with fellow wearers of a specific snap cardigan. When she made friends with another aficionado of the Agnès B. style, “We immediately felt simpatico in some vague but visceral way that I think was related to our wardrobe choices.” (I thought about whether I’d be more inclined to trust someone with my secrets if I could trust their taste in knits.) “Bonding over having similar style is what brought me to a lot of my most beloved friends,” says Avina Patel from the Twitter account @warmtoned. “I feel relieved knowing someone else shares an indulgence I do.” In photos of Julia Fox’s February birthday party, no one in her identically-corseted, baby Birkin–toting group of girlfriends appears to believe matching is a fashion “don’t.” Kylie Jenner and her best friend Anastasia “Stassie” Karanikolaou have been twinning since they were kids. And for actual twins Simi and Haze Khadra, who share an Instagram account, their outfits match as much as their DNA. The thing about twins (noun) who also twin (verb) is that it creates a single, bolded personality— double the dose of mesh outfit and moody makeup. If last summer was symbolized by hedonism and sex, this one appears to be summoning something witchier, beckoning us to observe and mirror one another rather than thrusting us at each other. The game that is life can seem like an unusually competitive one. Something to consider while getting dressed for your next dinner party: Most teams who win games show up in the same uniform.—EMILY SUNDBERG



Front Row FROM LEFT: SPRING 2022 LOOKS FROM MARINE SERRE, LOEWE, AND OTTOLINGER. BELOW: LORI PETTY IN TANK GIRL, ONE OF THE BLUEPRINTS FOR TODAY’S AVANT- APOCALYPSE LOOK. APOCALYPSE NOW This season, designers answered the question, What happens when maximalism meets Mad Max? SCHIAPARELLI’S GILDED “opera gloves.” Loewe’s armor- and kidswear fashion buying at Mytheresa. “Women are shop- P E T T Y: RGR COL LECT ION/A L A MY; R EMA INING IMAGE S: COURT ESY O F T HE D ESIGN ERS. like body sculpting. Marine Serre’s head-to-toe catsuits. The ping for items that celebrate their bodies.” Linda Fargo, fashion new mode of dressing takes inspiration from bracing for the director of Bergdorf Goodman, concurs: “As we rather literally apocalypse, but with a stronger, sexier MO than your typical emerge from the confines of the pandemic and shed our layers, BladeRunnerfare.It’s glamorous,dripping ingoldandrife with so too the body wants to be revealed and released,” she says. baroque patterns. Perhaps the rise of this aesthetic stems from our obsession with dystopian series like Station Eleven. Or may- The Berlin label Ottolinger incorporated sculptural wire that be it’s the idea that we’re literally shielding ourselves in a new swept off necklines and torsos into twisted, shredded dresses, way, after years of collective suffering caused by the pandemic evoking glamorous dystopian cocooning, while Elena Velez, who and the climate crisis. counts Solange, Grimes, and Charli XCX as fans, showed neutral silhouettes with metal elements inspired by “what I like to call The concept also owes a debt to TikTok, where the #avant- ‘aftermath industries,’ where people have had to create during apocalypse tag has over 500K views. Participants are decon- some sort of societal collapse, real or hypothetical.” structing, cutting, repurposing, and upcycling pieces they al- ready have in their wardrobes, putting an emphasis on the body Schiaparelli creative director Daniel Roseberry credited the with skin-revealing cutouts and curve-hugging fabrics. sci-fi classic Dune as one of the inspirations for his spring 2022 couture show. Models were shrouded in bejeweled arm cover- When apocalyptic-leaning styles originally hit it big in the ings that were equal parts robotic and protective; their shoul- ’70s and ’80s, “people were responding to economic instability ders were wrapped in gold orbital pieces (the designer refers to and wanting to rebel against the conventional values of older them as “rings of Saturn”) that would make anyone keep their generations,” explains fashion historian Caroline Elenowitz- social distance; and metallic strips engulfed one elegant black Hess. The 2022 incarnation is about being covered up, but dress from collarbone to hem. “I think embracing the body is revealing yourself in a powerful way at the same time. It’s a a subconscious form of liberation,” says Roseberry when asked new form of protection that takes its cues from “dopamine about his aerodynamic shapes and armor-like bodices. Despite dressing,” body-conscious silhouettes, and maximalism, all the literal heaviness of the pieces, “there’s a lightness to the of which are on the rise. way you wear your identity. When I’m in a place of suffering or being upset, it’s because I’m taking myself too seriously.” “As we have been sheltered for so long, it’s about the feeling —KRISTEN BATEMAN of freedom,” says Tiffany Hsu, vice president of womenswear 46

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Front Row HEAVILY EMBELLISHED LOOKS FROM SIMONE ROCHA’S SPRING 2022 COLLECTION. After a decade in business, FAMILY motherhoodledSimone Rocha to one of her most PORTRAIT personalcollectionsyet. t’s almost like a play,” Simone Rocha says It was 2011, and the “tough girl” ruled fashion. It Bags prac- JACOB LILLIS of putting together a fashion collection. tically came standard-issue with studs, and sludge-eyelinered models were the street-style flavor du jour. Rocha’s first solo “I “There’s a beginning, middle, and end. show at London Fashion Week struck me, then a baby ELLE A narrative.” Rocha has had narratives on writer, as a breath of rose petal–scented fresh air. Some of her her mind lately—beginnings and middles, models wore textured white meringue-like confections that though certainly not ends. She’s looking back appeared to float down the runway. Being a girlie girl was then on slightly over 10 years of shows, an eternity for an inde- the antithesis of cool, but Rocha didn’t care. Femininity, she says pendent fashion brand. Sitting in the lobby of a celebrity- in her sound bath–soft Irish lilt, “has a kind of undercurrent to frequented downtown New York hotel, she nurses a cup of it, this idea of strength beneath, and I’ve always been intrigued tea, unmistakable in ruffled, voluminous all-black and chunky by the combination of both.” When she showed Perspex-heeled jewelry, and remembers the beginning. 48

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: A LOOK FROM THE DESIGNER’S SOLO DEBUT COLLECTION; SPRING 2022 INCLUDED PIECES LIKE NURSING BRAS; A CLOSE-UP FROM THE WREN’S DAY–INSPIRED SPRING 2020 SHOW. always loved exploring the light and dark together.” And then there’s the intensely intimate quality that makes her work almost more like autofiction than a play. For Rocha, the personal is, if not political, then at least sartorial. Smuggling elements of her own experi- ence into a collection, she says, “makes it more than just clothes off the rack.” The daughter of a Chinese fashion designer father and an Irish mother who managed his business, Rocha has put both sides of her heritage into her work, showing collections inspired by the Chinese tradition of Ancestors’ Day (the Qing Ming Festival) and by traditional Irish techniques like Carrickmacross lace and Aran knits. “I always found that connection between history and family and how it’s translated into garments really interesting,” she says. Her excursions often lead her deeper into her home country’s lore. “I will go down FOR ROCHA, THE a wormhole and find a fable about PERSONAL IS, Ireland that’s really interesting the more I look into it,” she says. “It could be from the turn of the century, but IF NOT POLITICAL, you feel it’s very relevant today.” She’s THEN AT LEAST drawn from the natural landscape of Ireland as well, evoking the sea with SARTORIAL. wet-look Lurex yarn and turning the straw traditionally worn on Wren’s Day festivities into hay macramé em- bellishments. And she often looks to the trappings of Catholic ritual, from christenings to weddings to funerals. “I do think it comes from growing up in Ireland and the weightiness of things like wakes,” she says. (After we finish our conversation, she urges me to check out part of an installation in her SoHo store around the corner: an archway with Perspex panels that resemble stained glass. Two Rocha employees who share the designer’s ethereal warmth guide me under its rosy arches, and I feel at that moment like I’m in fashion church.) Of late, since Rocha has two young daughters, her narrative has expanded to include moth- erhood. Her spring 2022 collec- tion evoked swaddling clothes and nursing bras, shining a light on gar- ments that usually belong to the shoes the previous year as part of the Fashion East group show, closed world of the maternity ward, not the runway. She for example, they were masculine brogues. She wanted to con- had an impulse toward “the exploration of these things that trast the shoes’ heaviness with “something light and sensitive are not really discussed,” deciding to give them a catwalk- andalmostfragile,”shesays.“Anditjustsohappenedthatatthat worthyglamour.Caseinpoint:aheavilyembellishedmaternity time, it wasn’t the zeitgeist. So it felt very alien.” Designers were bra. That collection, which marked her first in-person show in inthralltothenewcrazeofdigitalprints,butshewasaDIYgirl. a year, “felt almost like a baptism for myself.” “What I’ve always done has been very hand-focused from the Her children’s birth really has brought a rebirth of sorts for beginning,” she notes, whether that’s embroidery or crochet or Rocha. Having daughters, she says, “made me want to be very hand-painting on garments. strong for them and really [show] them what you can do. I’m Rocha has evolved a visual signature that relies on a few veryproudofmywork,andit’smademetakeitmuchmoreseri- key elements: not only femininity and handcrafting, but also ously.Butatthesametime,becauseoneofmygirlsissixandshe a palette that feels all her own. She’s always been attracted to hasthisamazinginnocence,thenaïvetéofthathasalsoinspired the drama of red, she says. “It symbolizes love, but also blood me. So it’s a mix of the severity and then the naïveté, and I’ve and pain. I love mixing it with other colors to see how that can found that really inspiring as well.” Innocence and experience, create a new tension and friction.” Her reds stand out against severityandsoftness:Itmightjustbetheultimatemetaphorfor a background of mostly black and white, chosen because “I’ve Rocha’s life’s work.—VÉRONIQUE HYLAND 49

Front Row CATSUIT NATION All-in-onesforalldominated the runways this season. Here’s how the silhouette claweditswaytothetop. LEFT: LIZZO IN A RICHARD QUINN DESIGN. RIGHT: DUA LIPA WEARS BALENCIAGA ON HER FUTURE NOSTALGIA TOUR. iana Rigg, as Emma Peel, wore one. So did reimagining; Collina Strada’s floral crunchy-girl option, acces- LIZZO: BONNIE NICHOALDS; LIPA: JASON KOERNER/GETTY IMAGES. Britney Spears and nearly every Catwoman sorized with a fruit-shaped bag. De Sole cites designers like LaQuan Smith and Mugler’s Casey Cadwallader, who have D from Julie Newmar to Zoë Kravitz. By turns made sexed-up takes on the catsuit a signature. fetishistic and innocent, futuristic and throw- back-worthy, the modern-day catsuit came London designer David Koma tells me his personal fasci- into being when designer John Sutcliffe intro- nation with the silhouette stems from his love of sports—he’s duced the style for bikers in the ’50s. It went from fun, liberatory a huge tennis fan, and his spring collection, shown at the Zaha garment to slick Barbarella accoutrement fast, and its contra- Hadid–designed London Aquatics Centre, was inspired by syn- dictions have been fascinating fashion ever since. chronized swimming. He chalks up the catsuit’s current reign to This season has brought us a full-on catsuit resurgence, both our love affair with all things athleisure. “It’s a multifunctional, on the runway and in celebrity wardrobes. It feels like the perfect beautiful piece of clothing that could be taken from high-per- marriage of the body-conscious fashion that has ruled recent formance sport, to daywear, to partywear, to a proper red-carpet years and the more covered-up, unfussy options we reached for moment.” Take the custom Flo-Jo–inspired catsuit that Koma in lockdown. “Designers have fully embraced this new wave of created for Serena Williams to wear to the premiere of King sexy dressing, through everything from cutout dresses to flashing Richard. A riff on a sinuous single-leg look from Koma’s spring midriffs and crop tops,” notes Libby Page, senior market editor collection, it was the ultimate tribute from a tennis aficionado to at Net-a-Porter. “And the catsuit is no exception.” one of the sport’s greats, who’s often favored catsuits on-court. Rickie De Sole, the women’s designer fashion and editorial (In what he calls a “twinning moment,” Koma also designed a director at Nordstrom, attributes the garment’s popularity to matching look for Williams’s daughter, Olympia.) “its ability to provide an effortless yet bold way to dress up for a night out.” Hailey Bieber wore a slinky crushed-velvet Saint For spring, De Sole is excited about the wealth of options Laurent version on her birthday. Anya Taylor-Joy and Lizzo from Burberry, Dundas, and Saint Laurent, where cutout-heavy have both sported floral Richard Quinn styles. And of course, versions of the style dominated. Page calls the catsuit “the per- musicians love the way all-in-ones lend themselves to onstage fect building block” and notes that Net-a-Porter will be carrying calisthenics while still delivering arena-engulfing sex appeal: seven styles from Saint Laurent and three from Pieter Mulier’s Just ask Dua Lipa, Doja Cat, and Normani. debut collection for Alaïa. And Koma’s still riding high on a look Versatility is also part of the allure. On the runway, cat- from spring 2020 that keeps garnering newfound attention: a suits came in all flavors: Marine Serre’s dystopian-chic style, sequined zebra edition. “Actually, today,” he confides, “I had complete with a face covering; Gucci’s logo-heavy chartreuse another request for that from a super-big celebrity.” Consider it coming soon to a pap photo near you.—VÉRONIQUE HYLAND 50

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COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER. Shop PATTERN PLAY Maximalism ruled this season, complete with head-turning prints of all kinds. We’ve rounded up four motifs guaranteed to deliver serious, wardrobe-enlivening impact. SAINT LAURENT

Shop RICHARD 2 QUINN 2 1 1 3 4 5 1. Dress, Magda Butrym, $1,290, magdabutrym.com. 2. Earrings, Tiffany & Co., $850, tiffany.com. 3. Rouge Allure L’Extrait in Rouge Puissant, Chanel, $55, chanel.com. 4. Handbag, Roger Vivier, rogervivier.com. 5. Pump, Neous, $675, neous.co.uk. 1 3 RICHARD QUINN MODEL: PHOTOGRAPHED BY KATE GREEN/ BFC/GET T Y IMAGES; MAGDA BUTRYM DR ESS, VA LENTINO GAR AVANI 3 HA ND BAG, KHA ITE BRA LE T T E, LISA FO L AW IYO SKIRT, A ND PHI LO SOP HY D I LOR ENZO SER A FI NI D RESS: COU RT ESY OF MODA 2 O PE RA ND I; L A PIMA SUNGL AS SE S: COURTESY OF MATCHESFASHI ON.COM; PROEN ZA SCHOU LER MO DEL : P HOTOGR AP HED BY 4 JONAS GUSTAVSSON; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS; FOR DETAILS, SEE SHOPPING GUIDE. 4 5 1. Jeans, SLVRLAKE, $299, 1. Earring, Panconesi, $287, Bergdorf Goodman, NYC. marcopanconesi.com. 2. Trench 6 2. Sunglasses, Lapima, $493, coat, Act N°1, $1,350, actn1 lapima.com. 3. Shirt, Zimmermann, .com. 3. Dress, H&M, $50, $650, zimmermann.com. 4. Bucket hm.com. 4. Handbag, Valentino bag, Simone Rocha, $850, Simone Garavani, $3,200, Valentino Rocha, NYC. 5. Ring, Pasquale Bruni, boutiques nationwide. 5. $1,550, pasqualebruni.com. Platform, Versace, $1,425, 6. Sneaker, Polo Ralph Lauren, $98, versace.com. ralphlauren.com.

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