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JUNE /JULY WOMEN IN MUSIC CDOATJA REDEFINING THE UNEDITED ROCK MUSE UNPREDICTABLE UNSTOPPABLE EASY AND CHIC SUMMER STYLE











































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Trending 4 HOUSE PROUD Paddles will be flying throughout June as Christie’s oversees the sale of more than 1,100 lots of art and furniture from the collection of French couturier Hubert de Givenchy. An early supporter of Swiss sculptor Alberto Giacometti and an avid gardener (a passion he shared with longtime client and frequent collaborator Bunny Mellon), Givenchy honed his taste and design skills just as much at his residences as he did in his Paris atelier. Can’t make it to France? The auction house is offering online bidding from June 8 to 23. christies.com. 3 ICON GIVENCHY ROOM: FRANÇOIS HALARD/CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LIMITED; ABLOH (BEHIND STATUS MANNEQUIN): JUERGEN TELLER; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS. Few designers have been as prolific as the late Virgil Abloh. From IKEA rugs to Maybachs, no medium was too humble or too grand for the Off-White founder and Louis Vuitton creative director of menswear. Survey some of Abloh’s never-before-seen work and learn more about his remarkable success story as the Brooklyn Museum plays host to an expanded version of the exhibition Virgil Abloh: “Figures of Speech.” July 1, 2022–January 29, 2023, brooklynmuseum.org. 5 STEP GOING TO BY STEP THE DOGS Ease into the social season with They say you can’t teach an old one of the summer’s most dog new tricks, but Celine’s new unexpected collabs: cleanical pet line could give Fluffy a (clean + clinical) skin care brand lesson in fashion. The 24-piece Dr. Barbara Sturm and luxury collection includes subtle shoe company Aquazzura. Before accessories like a studded collar slipping into a pair of sorbet- and leash in tan calfskin, a colored leather shoes—stiletto waste-bag holder shaped like mule and slide designs with the brand’s logo, and the bold double-padded memory-foam transformation of the Voyage insoles—spritz on the Foot Spray, which uses witch hazel, hyaluronic acid, and plankton extract to soothe and revitalize tired legs and soles. Dr. Barbara Sturm Foot Spray, $75, drsturm.com. Aquazzura Sturm Mule in Cool Mint, $850, aquazzura.com.







NO.437 June/July Volume XXXVII Number 9 18 TRENDING JACKET, $1,590, SHIRT, $495, TIE, $195, SPORTMAX. 30 THE FEED CRYSTAL AND GOLD BRA, 32 EDITOR’S LETTER AREA. PLATFORMS, 35 NINA’S EDIT GIAMBATTISTA VALLI, $1,390. 38 NEW ARRIVALS ADRIENNE RAQUEL The latest accessories sport a fresh flash of green. Front Row 42 THE NEW AGE OF THE SOCIETY SWAN Designers are mirroring the midcentury fashion of the so-called swans, but with a decidedly 2022 spin. By Mark Peikert 44 WHO’S MUSING WHO? Randi Bergman asks: Has the music muse become the artist? Accessories 47 STAR QUALITY Chanel’s 1932 high jewelry collection evokes the past and the heavens above. 48 TAKE THE PLUNGE These goddess-worthy swim looks were inspired by a glamorous California pool. 50 HOT PINK Embrace the vibrant color and clean lines of one of Mexico’s most celebrated architects. 53 DECO DRAMA An iconic French spot inspires statement- making summer style. Shop 55 SWIM FAN Whether you favor chic shine, island vibes, or bold monochromatic color, we’ve got a suit for you. Beauty 61 THE WHITE STRIPES Suddenly, the most popular color in makeup is no color at all. By Margaux Anbouba 66 JUST ADD WATER Innovative face mists are a refreshing way to protect skin from pollution. By Genevieve Monsma 68 BANGS ARE BACK And they’ll be sticking around. Genevieve Monsma reports from the fringe. 70 MESSAGE IN A BOTTLE Margaux Anbouba talks to the visionaries who are changing how we think about gender and fragrance.



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NO.437 June/July Volume XXXVII Number 9 Living CARDIGAN, $1,595, BODYSUIT, $2,895, ST. JOHN. 74 RECLAIM YOUR ZEN Kelley Manley explores a boom C HRIS COL LS; FO R D ETA ILS, SEE SHO P PING GUIDE. in wellness tourism fueled by a pandemic-induced need for mental health getaways. Perspectives 78 THE WOMEN OF CRYPTO Jessica Klein speaks to women navigating the exciting—but still male-dominated—world of cryptocurrency. 82 TAKING A BEAT The music industry demands a constant stream of content. These young female artists are trying a slow-burn approach instead. By Marissa R. Moss Fashion 85 DOJA OVERLOAD Marjon Carlos enters the never- boring world of rap superstar Doja Cat. Photographed by Adrienne Raquel. Styled by Patti Wilson 100 QUEEN RINA Polymath musician Rina Sawayama takes a turn as a couture model. By Véronique Hyland. Photographed by Nathaniel Goldberg. Styled by Alex White 112 LESS IS MORE Eva Herzigová models easy, sexy summer essentials—and speaks to Adrienne Gaffney about her own return to simplicity. Photographed by Chris Colls. Styled by Alex White 122 SHOPPING GUIDE 124 HOROSCOPE THE COVER LOOK Doja Cat wears a dress and necklace from Dolce & Gabbana, gloves from Gasoline Glamour, tights from Falke, and platforms from Sophia Webster. Photographed by Adrienne Raquel (styled by Patti Wilson; hair by Nikki Nelms for Maui Moisture; makeup by Raisa Flowers at E.D.M.A; manicure by Chaun Legend at the Only Agency; set design by Daniel Horowitz at Jones Mgmt; produced by William B. Galusha). For Doja’s makeup look, try Skin Fetish: Divine Blush in Cherish and Skin Fetish: Highlighter + Balm Duo in Golden. Both, Pat McGrath Labs. SUBSCRIBER COVER LOOKS Doja wears a trench coat from Duran Lantink and a brooch from Tiffany & Co. For Doja’s makeup look, try MatteTrance Lipstick in Peep Show from Pat McGrath Labs. Doja wears a dress and tights from Valentino. For Doja’s makeup look, try Lip Pencil in Cork, Powder Kiss Lipstick in Mull It Over, and Clear Gloss. All, M.A.C Cosmetics.



The Feed BANA N A RE PUBLI C MOD ELS: P HOTOGRA PH ED BY MI CA IAH CA RTER ; MA NDAL A W ITH C ERAMI C DE ER A NT LE R (T RANS FOR M ATION ) ( 2 0 18 ) BY SU ZA NN E WRIG HT; K E HL ANI : B R IA ALYSS E; REACH I NG TO YO U ACROSS U NI VERSE S (2 02 1) BY DAY B RIÈR RE; LA CO CI NA DE MAM A ( 202 2 ) BY ODA LYS BURG OA; T HE W IZAR D ( AF TE R GAUG UI N) ( 20 20 ) BY YU KI KIH A RA , C OURTE SY OF M IL FORD GAL LERI ES, AOT EAROA N EW @BANANAREPUBLIC @SUZANNEWRIGHTSTUDIO @KEHLANI ZEALAND; LOUHI VASE: COURTESY OF ROSE GROWN; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE BRANDS. @ABOUTFACEBEAUTY @BIOMORPHIA @SISTERBATWING @HUEFRAGRANCE @YUKIKIHARA @ROSEGROWN PRIDE AND JOY We’re celebrating LGBTQ+ creatives making waves and brands giving back to the community. One of the most remarkable names to emerge from this year’s Venice Biennale is interdisciplinary artist Yuki Kihara. The first fa’afafine (the Samoan term for third gender), Pasifika, and Asian artist to represent New Zealand there, Kihara reframes history through a contemporary, queer, Indigenous lens (don’t miss her new book, Paradise Camp). Elsewhere in the art world, Rose Grown pottery in Atlanta is fashioning clay vessels representing trans bodies (the one shown benefits the Black Trans Advocacy Coalition), while painter and photographer Odalys Burgoa’s abstract florals (@sisterbatwing) are on display at the New York Botanical Garden. And artist Day Brièrre’s 2021 piece Reaching to You Across Universes (@biomorphia) illustrates the power of connection to heal grief. Halsey’s About-Face cosmetics line is donating 100 percent of the proceeds from sales of its new Pride bundle of Matte Fluid Eye Paint during June to The Trevor Project, and Hue, pop singer Hayley Kiyoko’s perfume, has been short-listed for a Fragrance Foundation Award. Also in recent drops: Kehlani’s latest album, Blue Water Road, and Banana Republic’s gender-inclusive BR Athletics capsule.—NAOMI ROUGEAU 30

PRESENTED BY OGX EMBRACE THE BETTER LOVE OGX has an extensive line of 30-plus high-performing, salon-quality formulas IS IN THE designed by real haircare experts for every hair type. HAIR OGX Argan Oil of Morocco, OGX Argan Oil of Morocco, For super-glam celebrity hairstylist Shampoo & Conditioner Extra Penetrating Oil Jesus Guerrero, hair is the best way to express who you are. “We have the power to style hair the way we want—without gender norms or bias.” Haircare brand OGX celebrates the LGBTQIA+ community and champions individuality & love through hair. Get inspired to show off your unique, amazing personality with your locks and give your hair some TLC from OGX. Why do you feel it’s so important to love your hair? JG: Hair is one of the first things people see and it represents you as a person. How you care about your hair showcases who you are, so love and appreciate it! What are the most important steps to healthy, gorgeous hair? JG: The mindset of love and being yourself are key, then using high- quality products that nourish hair. I love OGX products for my long, curly hair, but they’re incredible on every hair texture and type. What OGX products can help keep an amazing hairstyle all day? JG: If you have a curly hair, I would recommend OGX Locking + Coconut Curls Decadent Creamy Mousse. Squeeze it onto your hands, scrunch into the hair, and let it air-dry. You can use as much as you want, and it won’t leave hair crunchy or stiff. What are some tips to fall in love with your hair? JG: Experiment and see what your hair can do. Change your style, color, or cut as often as you want. Take risks. Hair grows back and is resilient, so find out how your locks suit you and your personality best. If you had to choose, what is your favorite go-to OGX product? JG: It’s hard to choose only one, but I love OGX Argan Oil of Morocco Extra Strength Multi-Benefit Hairspray. It’s lightweight but provides hold, so you can use it for a multitude of looks—and it smells amazing! FOR MORE INFORMATION ON OGX PRODUCTS VISIT OGXBEAUTY.COM

TRENCH COAT, NOW DURAN LANTINK, HEAR $4,400. BROOCH, THIS TIFFANY & CO. ith two children at home, it’s hard to escape on the heels of the ready-to-wear shows. I had a few moments to meet her, and we the songs of the summer (“Kiss Me More” were so excited to talk about her upcoming projects, including getting to work with W and “Best Friend” have both been on heavy Keanu Reeves on John Wick: Chapter 4, rotation in seasons past). My interest in Doja out next year. (Not only can she sing, she can act!) Meanwhile, in our Front Row sec- Cat, the womanbehind both those hitsand so tion, Randi Bergman explores the effect rock stars’ muses have had on fashion—and many more, has been brewing for quite some how, in a change from the past, these days those muses are actually getting recogni- time. I had the opportunity to meet her and was immediately tion. And Marissa R. Moss reports on how burned-out female artists are rejecting the impressed with her personality, not to mention how easy she music industry’s frenetic pace, taking time out between albums and exploring other is to talk to. What you see on TikTok is what you get—she’s so interests, from academia to cooking. real. She has been on my radar for an ELLE cover for a while This season’s best fashion moments were a blast from the past. As we look now, and I’m so excited to be doing this portfolio with her. The forward to the TV version of Laurence Leamer’s best-seller Capote’s Women (cur- chameleonic singer-rapper tells Marjon Carlos that her success rently being adapted for Season 2 of FX’s Feud), the society swans he wrote about re- all boils down to that authenticity. “There’s no formula to win, turned to the fashion fold in the collections of designers like Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, and Christopher John Rogers—but with a modern twist, as writer Mark Peikert finds. And we took a more recent rewind to the supermodel era for our shoot with Eva Herzigová. The 49-year-old legend, who has graced ELLE covers both in the U.S. and abroad, talks about how fashion (and body standards) have changed, and how her battle with long COVID has taught her the importance of slow- ing down. These days, she’s embracing aging, she tells Associate Editor Adrienne Gaffney: “Hey, this body has pulled me through for 30, whatever, years...That’s amazing.” Speaking of self-care, Kelley Manley chronicles the rise of the “mental health vacation” as a response to pandemic stress. And on page 78, Jessica Klein embeds with women in the Wild West world of crypto to find out how they’re carving out space for themselves and navigating a bro-heavy culture rife with microaggressions and intimidation—not to mention trying to make room for more women to follow in their footsteps. “I feel like I’ve infiltrated. I’m one of the boys now,” one interviewee tells her. “But it shouldn’t be like that.” but I think there’s a formula to lose,” she says. “If you don’t be- lieve in what you’re doing, people aren’t stupid—they’re going to pick up on that real quick.” Our annual music issue is one of our favorites to produce ADRIENNE RAQUEL because music keeps evolving, and it has become more and more female-centric. There are so many women artists owning the charts, including two who made it to our pages this month. We shot a couture portfolio with Rina Sawayama in Paris, @NINAGARCIA NINAGARCIA @NINAGARCIAOFFICIAL 32

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Nina’s Edit GARCIA TAKES IN AN EXHIBIT AT 30 AVENUE MONTAIGNE. From Paris WITH LOVE THE PACE OF PARIS FASHION WEEK seldom leaves and thank goodness he did. Built in 1865 by Count Alexandre time for exploring all that the City of Light has to offer. This Walewski, the stunning hôtel particulier has been expanded season, however, ELLE editor-in-chief Nina Garcia managed to nearly 108,000 square feet after a two-year renovation by to find a wealth of inspiration off the runway—and no, it wasn’t starchitect Peter Marino. Among the highlights: three gardens at the Louvre, but at Dior’s revamped flagship boutique on (a nod to one of the couturier’s favorite pastimes); a restaurant the Avenue Montaigne. and café overseen by chef Jean Imbert; a private suite to rival those of Europe’s best hotels; and an exhibition space that lifts “It had to be 30 Avenue Montaigne. I was going to settle the lid on the inner workings of the famed fashion house. here and nowhere else!” said Christian Dior of the address, FACADE: ADRIEN DIRAND; GARCIA: COURTESY OF THE SUBJECT; MISS DIOR ROOM AND WINTER GARDEN: ROMAIN FRENCH TWIST Add a touch of Parisian chic to your home and wardrobe. RICARD; PASTRY BAR AND GARDEN OVERVIEW: KRISTEN PELOU; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF DIOR. 1. 30 Montaigne Dior Mizza flats, 4 Dior. 2. 30 Montaigne medallion necklaces, Dior Fine Jewelry. 3. 30 Montaigne decorative plate by Pietro Ruffo, Dior Maison. 4. Large Dior Book Tote bag with 30 Montaigne Gate embroidery, Dior. All, Dior 30 Montaigne boutique. 2 3 1

NINA GARCIA Editor-in-Chief STEPHEN GAN Creative Director MARTIN HOOPS SARA AUSTIN ERIN HOBDAY ALEX WHITE Executive Design Director Executive Editor Executive Managing Editor Fashion Director ALIX CAMPBELL KAYLA WEBLEY ADLER JENNIFER WEISEL ALEXIS WOLFE KATHLEEN HOU Chief Visual Content Director, Deputy Editor Entertainment Director Fashion Market and Beauty Director Accessories Director Hearst Magazines MELISSA GIANNINI VÉRONIQUE HYLAND CARY GEORGES JEFFREY INGLEDUE Features Director Fashion Features Director Visual Director Deputy Managing Editor FASHION Senior Market Editor SARAH ZENDEJAS Credits Editor CAITLIN MULLEN Market Editor JADE VALLARIO Fashion Associate KEVIN LEBLANC Assistant Fashion Editor ROSIE JARMAN Fashion and Accessories Assistant MADISON REXROAT FEATURES Senior Fashion Features Editor NAOMI ROUGEAU Associate Editor ADRIENNE GAFFNEY Assistant Editor JULIANA UKIOMOGBE BEAUTY Beauty Editor MARGAUX ANBOUBA Assistant Beauty Editor EMILY BURNS ART AND DESIGN Art Director KATELYN BAKER Senior Digital Designer LEAH ROMERO Designer HANNA DAY-TENEROWICZ Assistant to the Editor-in-Chief SAMUEL MAUDE HEARST VISUAL GROUP Deputy Visual Director FIONA LENNON Senior Visual Researcher MEGAN A. VICTORIA Associate Producer SAMEET SHARMA COPY AND RESEARCH Copy Chief TERRI SCHLENGER Research Chief BRENDÁN CUMMINGS Research Editor LAURA ASMUNDSSON PRODUCTION Operations Account Manager MARIA FERNANDEZ Premedia Account Manager JEAN-NATE FONTE Digital Imaging Specialist REBECCA IOVAN International Coordinator MONIQUE BONIOL Editorial Business Director CAROL LUZ Editorial Business Manager KATE REMULLA ELLE.COM Digital Director JESSICA ROY Deputy Editor CLAIRE STERN Beauty Director CHLOE HALL Features Editor KATHERINE KRUEGER Senior Culture Editor ERICA GONZALES Senior News and Strategy Editor ALYSSA BAILEY Senior Writer MADISON FELLER Senior Market and E-Commerce Editor JUSTINE CARREON Staff Writer ROSE MINUTAGLIO Beauty E-Commerce Editor NERISHA PENROSE Beauty E-Commerce Writer TATJANA FREUND Associate Editor LAUREN PUCKETT-POPE Associate Fashion Commerce Editor MEG DONOHUE Photo Editor YOUSRA ATTIA Video Producer LAURA HACKER Senior Video Editor KAMERON KEY After Effects Artist ALINA PETRICHYN DP/Editor TOM JEZIK WORLD’S LEADING FASHION MAGAZINE • 45 INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS Argentina • Australia • België • Belgium • Bulgaria • Canada • China • Croatia • Czech Republic • Denmark • Finland • France • Germany • Greece • Holland • Hong Kong • Hungary • India • Indonesia • Italy • Japan • Kazakhstan • Korea • Malaysia • Mexico • Norway • Oriental • Poland • Portugal • Quebec • Romania • Serbia • Singapore • Slovenia • South Africa • Spain • Sweden • Taiwan • Thailand • Turkey • Ukraine • United Kingdom • USA • Vietnam PUBLISHED BY HEARST President and Chief Executive Officer STEVEN R. SWARTZ Chairman WILLIAM R. HEARST III Executive Vice Chairman FRANK A. BENNACK, JR. Chief Operating Officer MARK E. ALDAM Secretary CATHERINE A. BOSTRON HEARST MAGAZINE MEDIA, INC. President and Treasurer, Hearst Magazines Group DEBI CHIRICHELLA Chief Content Officer KATE LEWIS Chief Business Officer KRISTEN M. O’HARA President, Hearst Magazines International JONATHAN WRIGHT Publishing Consultants GILBERT C. MAURER, MARK F. MILLER Founding Editor RÉGIS PAGNIEZ For information on reprints and e-prints, please contact Brian Kolb at Wright’s Reprints, 877-652-5295 or [email protected]. ELLE is published by Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. All correspondence should be addressed to: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019. The ELLE trademark and logo are owned by Hachette Filipacchi Presse (France), a Lagardère Active Group company. ELLE® is used under license from the trademark owner, Hachette Filipacchi Presse. Copyright © 2022. Printed in the United States of America. ELLEAROUNDTHEWORLD.COM

CAROL A. SMITH Senior Vice President, Group Publishing Director Senior Vice President, Publishing Director JACK ESSIG Vice President, General Manager ANNE WELCH Vice President, Marketing BRENT WILLIAMS ALLEN Executive Director, Advertising Business Operations JEANINE TRIOLO Group Executive Marketing Director & Sales Strategy LISA PIANA Vice President, Sales CHRIS PEEL Chief Brand Officer, Hearst Luxury Collection E-Commerce KEN DOWNING Group Finance Manager RON SABATINI Executive Assistant/Business Associate DANA WENTZEL INTEGRATED ADVERTISING SALES Group Executive Director, Beauty & Lifestyle JOANNA NOWACK MELISSAKIS Group Executive Director, Fashion & Luxury AARON S. KRANSDORF Senior Executive Sales Director, Luxury KATE SLAVIN Executive Sales Directors, Fashion PAULA FORTGANG, JOHN WATTIKER Executive Sales Director, Luxury CARYN KESLER Executive Sales Directors, Beauty ANGELA PARAUDA, JILL SCHLANGER-SLIVKA Executive Sales Director, Travel RW HORTON Executive Sales Director, Lifestyle TAMMY COHEN Senior Sales Director, Beauty LAUREN DEL VALLE Senior Sales Director, Fashion MICHAEL RIGGIO Senior Sales Manager, Direct Media ANGELA HRONOPOULOS Sales Assistants OLIVIA BENSON, HALLEY DEONARINE, AALIA MEHRA, AMANDA SHEERIN INTEGRATED MARKETING Executive Marketing Directors SARAH CLAUSEN, ALEXANDRA KEKALOS, DANA MENDELOWITZ, LINDSAY SABLE Senior Marketing Director AIMEE COUTURE Marketing Director SARA OLDMIXON Associate Marketing Director DEAN FRYN Senior Marketing Manager BRIANA ROTELLO Marketing Managers GINNY DURKIN, EMILY LYNCH Associate Marketing Manager HANNAH BUTLER Marketing Coordinators ISABELLE ADLER, KENDRA WILLIAMS Marketing Assistant MCKENZIE SUTHERLAND BRAND DEVELOPMENT CREATIVE SERVICES EVENTS & PROMOTIONS Executive Marketing Director, Research & Brand Executive Creative Director THEA KARAS Executive Marketing Director, Events & Promotions Senior Art Director JESSICA TSOUPLAKIS Development NICOLE SPICEHANDLER KAREN MENDOLIA Senior Marketing Director, Research & Brand Creative Director FRAUKE EBINGER Associate Marketing Director, Events & Promotions Art Director ALICE STEVENS Development ALEXANDRA STETZER JESSICA HEINMILLER Associate Marketing Director, Research & Brand CIRCULATION Vice President, Retail Sales JIM MILLER PRODUCTION & ADMINISTRATION Development MELANIE SINGER Senior Billing Coordinator Vice President, Group Consumer JONELLE DUNCAN ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Marketing Director RICK DAY Advertising Services Director MICHAEL NIES Senior Advertising Services Manager MICHELLE LUIS BRANCH OFFICES Executive Sales Director, West Coast MARJAN DIPIAZZA Executive Sales Director, Midwest AUTUMN JENKS Executive Sales Director, Southwest LUCINDA WEIKEL [email protected] Sales Director, West Coast JASON YASMENT Sales Director, Southeast RITA WALKER [email protected] ELLE INTERNATIONAL, A DIVISION OF LAGARDÈRE NEWS CEO CONSTANCE BENQUÉ CEO ELLE International Licenses FRANÇOIS CORUZZI SVP/International Director of ELLE VALÉRIA BESSOLO LLOPIZ Fashion Editor CHARLOTTE DEFFE Beauty & Celebrity Editor VIRGINIE DOLATA Syndication Director SÉVERINE LAPORTE Syndication Coordinator MONIQUE BONIOL Copyrights Manager KENZA ALLAL Database Manager PASCAL IACONO Digital & Graphic Design Director MARINE LE BRIS Marketing Director MORGAN ROHÉE INTERNATIONAL AD SALES HOUSE LAGARDÈRE GLOBAL ADVERTISING SVP/International Advertising JULIAN DANIEL [email protected] Call: 800-876-8775 E LLE I N T E R N AT I O N A L .CO M ELLE® is used under license from the Email: elmcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com trademark owner, Hachette Filipacchi Presse, ELLE CUSTOMER SERVICE Visit: service.elle.com Write: Customer Service Department a subsidiary of Lagardère SCA. ELLE P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037 For information on reprints and e-prints, please contact Brian Kolb at Wright’s Reprints, 877-652-5295 or [email protected]. ELLE is published by Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. All correspondence should be addressed to: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019. The ELLE trademark and logo are owned by Hachette Filipacchi Presse (France), a Lagardère Active Group company. Copyright © 2022. Printed in the United States of America.

New Arrivals DON PENNY/STUDIO D The BAG Embracing peak logomania, Gucci teams up with Adidas on a tote that has appeal far beyond the gym. Tote, Adidas x Gucci, $8,500, gucci.com. 38

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COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER. The SHOE Louis Vuitton’s athletic-inspired kitten heel is the perfect fusion of sporty and sophisticated. Slingback, Louis Vuitton, $1,130, louisvuitton.com. 41

Front Row A LOOK FROM CAROLINA HERRERA PREFALL 2022. The New Age ofthe Society Swan How a ’50s archetype found her way back into the limelight. THEY WERE WALKING, breathing Slim Aarons photos these stylish women—whom Truman Capote dubbed his come to life—literally. The photographer who defined mid- “swans”—have largely faded from view. century style by taking photos of “attractive people doing attractive things in attractive places” frequently captured But this season, they took wing again. Look no further than them at home and at play, and often both. Some 60 years lat- the 2022 prefall shows at New York Fashion Week, where the er, much like “walkers” and long lunches at La Côte Basque, swans’ silhouettes found their way into collections as varied as Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Khaite, and Christopher

CAROLINA HERRERA MODEL: PHOTOGRAPHED BY CAMILA FALQUEZ; CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS John Rogers—complete with some thoroughly modern up- example of this revised archetype. No longer are swans au- MODEL: PHOTOGRAPHED BY CÉSAR BUITRAGO; REMAINING IMAGE: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER. dates. At Oscar, perfectly cut tweed suits came with statement tomatically assumed to be uniformly white, wealthy women; buttons and bare midriffs. Carolina Herrera’s models stood on nor do we think of those who want to emulate them as such. pedestals, but their swanlike ensembles included down-to- earth touches like cutouts; Rogers updated classic silhouettes Today’s designers recognize the power of individuality itali- with bold stripes and one-of-a-kind hats. These are clothes for cized, no matter the wearer’s age or background. “It’s possible to a woman who prizes individuality, maybe even eccentricity, in tap into an essence of elegance and glamour that isn’t just owned a sea of algorithm-driven sameness. by one decade,” says Wes Gordon, creative director of Carolina Herrera. “And I think now is really a moment where we’re seeing “The swans didn’t just have money and style, but an ex- that be embraced. Women across all geographies and ages are traordinary presentation that Truman Capote considered an wanting fabulous, glamorous, heart-skip-a-beat moments from art form,” says Laurence Leamer, author of last year’s group fashion.” And we’re definitely ready to revive what Gordon calls biography Capote’s Women, now being adapted for the next “the exuberance” of the way the swans lived. Many of the prefall season of FX’s Feud. “In the postwar world, they legitimized collections felt like a color-saturated call to arms for a more ex- elegant dress as a worthy concern, and that stays with us pansive life after a period of circumscribed living. today.” Figures like Babe Paley, C. Z. Guest, Slim Keith, and Gloria Guinness combined money with idiosyncratic taste in “For over a decade now, we have seen the mass casual- a way that resonates in our new normal of Zoom calls and ath- ization of fashion, so it makes sense that in this moment, we leisure. With their families and fortunes, they ruled New York are craving an alternative—especially as we emerge from the society in its great last gasp during the ’50s and ’60s—defin- pandemic,” Aiken says. Now designers are homing in on what ing the lady who lunches, as well as the lady who is tastefully she describes as the swans’ “effortlessly polished style and photographed in her Billy Baldwin–designed living room, sophistication.” In an age of influencers, followers, and very effortlessly setting trends. little mystery, the swans possess a real appeal. “We saw only what they wanted us to see,” Aiken says. The concept remains, though in a drastically altered form. “A modern swan is not some- We’re all ready for a reason to embrace individuality, and one who is only influential to emulate fictional model Mag within their social circle, but Wildwood in Capote’s classic someone who uses their reach Breakfast at Tiffany’s (whose in- to change the world around delible creation Holly Golightly them,” says Lisa Aiken, fash- more than slightly resembled ion and lifestyle director of some of his swans). Mag’s beau- Neiman Marcus. “Someone like ty, he wrote, came about as the Aurora James comes to mind.” result of “exaggerating defects: James, the founder of fashion she’d made them ornamental label Brother Vellies and the by admitting them boldly.” Like nonprofit The Fifteen Percent Mag, like the swans, we could Pledge, which promotes Black- all use a push to live life—and owned brands, is a perfect dress for it—with an exclama- tion point.—MARK PEIKERT FROM LEFT: PREFALL 2022 LOOKS FROM CAROLINA HERRERA, CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS, AND OSCAR DE LA RENTA.

Front Row FROM LEFT: KATE MOSS AND PETE DOHERTY; RIHANNA AND A$AP ROCKY; MEGAN FOX AND MACHINE GUN KELLY. WHO’S MUSING WHO? AS THE GREATmodernphilos- A new era of musical Doherty. Her style during this opher Julia Fox once said, “You’re muses, from Megan Fox time—miniskirts, low-slung belts, either born a muse or you’re not.” leather—has been trending again By her own meme-ified sugges- thanks to #rockstargirlfriend, a tion, the actress has been a source to Kourtney Kardashian, TikTok hashtag with over 3 mil- of inspiration to many. Most nota- invites the question. lion views that is populated with bly, Uncut Gems codirector Josh images of Moss and Alexa Chung. Safdie and her former paramour Today’s rock star girlfriend Kanye West. Say what you will aesthetic is best embodied by about the veracity of Fox’s claim, but her allusion to this myth- Kourtney Kardashian and Megan Fox, both of whom under- ical role was a callback to one of history’s oldest tropes. In an- went a shift in personal style inspired by the pop-punk look of cient Greece, Muses were goddesses and sources of inspiration their respective partners Travis Barker and Machine Gun Kelly. for the arts and sciences. In more recent eras, this embodiment And while Kardashian and Fox seem more than willing to play of the divine feminine came down to earth—and started dat- their parts, that the tagline should refer to established women ing an artist or a musician. Think of Picasso’s lover and subject like them as mere arm candy underscores the power imbalance Dora Maar; Kiki de Montparnasse, who appeared nearly nude withinthemusician-muserelationship.“Thereseemstobesome in some of Man Ray’s surrealist photos; or the fictional Penny inherent patriarchy in the word muse—this idea that the wom- MOSS AND DOHERTY: MARK MILAN/FILMMAGIC; RIHANNA AND A$AP ROCKY: R AYMO ND HA LL/ GC I MAGES; FOX AN D KEL LY: JE RRI T T CL ARK /G ET T Y IMAGES. Lane in Almost Famous. an has to be made in the man’s image,” says Emily Kirkpatrick, In this conception, the muse “is this source of aesthetic cre- a freelance writer covering fashion and celebrity. These days, ation,butshe’snotactuallyacreatorherself,”saysLauraMcLaws though,it’shardertobackwomenintothemusecorner.“Today, Helms,afashionandculturehistorian.Thatassumptionhasob- peoplehavetheirownplatforms.There’smorestructureforthe scured her crucial role in rock’s visual mythmaking. The Penny musetohavetheirownvoiceandcreatetheirownidentity,”says Lane character was the embodiment of rock star muses of the Briana Andalore, one half of Julia Fox’s styling team, alongside 1960sand’70s,likeAnitaPallenberg,aGerman-Italianmodel,ac- PeriRosenzweig.“EspeciallyforJulia.She’salwayshadherown tress,andartist–turned–museoftheRollingStones.AnotableIt voice and done her own thing, and she’s going to continue to do GirlwhodatedbothBrianJonesandKeithRichards,Pallenberg so.”Thetraditionalconceptofinspirerandinspireedoesn’tapply, was key to developing the band’s era-defining aesthetic. “She inherview.“Idon’tknowifthatdynamiceverfitintothispartic- totally changed the way they dressed, one member at a time,” ular scenario.... We were all inspiring the situation.” McLaws Helms says. She introduced them to floppy hats, slinky A symbiotic exchange—of style, of cred—might be a better layers, and fur-trimmed coats—and also taught Richards how metaphor for what goes on between musician and muse. Fox to scowl as he performed wearing her boho tunics, scarves, and offered West many things, including an entrée to New York’s bangles. “If you think about what we think of Keith [Richards], downtown scene. Nowadays, we’re seeing fashion inspiration that person is because of Anita,” she says. being more evenly distributed within celebrity relationships. Skip a generation, and Pallenberg’s clear successor was Look no further than Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, whose shared Kate Moss, already a legend when she shape-shifted into a rock fashionlanguageseemsmutuallybeneficial.Together,theycon- ’n’ roll party girl on the arm of the Libertines front man Pete tinue to inspire us all.—RANDI BERGMAN 44