BBC Good Food UK 08.2022_downmagaz.net

weekend Tomato & nduja bruschetta, p102 AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 101

tip Broad bean pasta Tomato & nduja GROW YOUR OWN Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist AMY KINNEAR | Stylist JO HARRIS bruschetta Trofie are short Although peas would work well in Emma Crawforth twists of pasta this dish, broad beans are just as Use ripe tomatoes to make these is a qualified and make this sweet when peeled, and they’re sweet and spicy bread bites. Ideal horticulturist, dish feel more at their peak in summer months. for a garden party, when it doesn’t trained at the Royal special, but matter if you make a bit of a mess. Botanic Gardens, penne works SERVES 2 PREP 25 mins Kew, and is the just as well. COOK 22 mins EASY MAKES 16 PREP 15 mins gardening editor for COOK 10 mins EASY BBC Gardeners’ World. This month, tip 200g podded broad beans advice on growing broad beans. (about 600g unpodded), 1 large baguette, trimmed and If you have defrosted if frozen cut into 16 slices BROAD BEANS leftover pancetta and 200g trofie pasta (see tip, left) 300g ripe tomatoes, What to look for when broad pasta, make 75g pancetta roughly chopped beans are ready? our two-step 1 lemon, zested and halved Pick as soon as the individual beans carbonara. Find 5 mint sprigs, leaves picked 400g can cannellini beans, show in the pod, starting at the base the recipe at: drained and rinsed of the plant. Young ones are more bbcgoodfood. and finely chopped succulent. Take care if you’re pulling com/two-step- 125g ricotta small handful of parsley, chopped rather than cutting them, as it’s easy carbonara 15g parmesan, to serve (optional) 2 tsp red wine vinegar to tear the plant’s stem. You can 2 tsp extra virgin olive oil harvest whole pods, but this is 1 Bring a large pan of water to the 8-10 tsp nduja rarely worthwhile, as you’ll miss boil and cook the beans for 3 mins out on the formed beans. until just tender. Remove to a bowl 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ of ice-cold water using a slotted gas 6. Arrange the baguette slices What time of year are they grown? spoon to halt the cooking process. on a large baking tray and bake for In sheltered gardens, autumn 2 Set the pan back on the heat, tip 8-10 mins until crisp and lightly sowing will give you a crop from in the pasta and cook following pack golden. (You may need to do this May to fill the ‘hungry gap’ [when instructions. Meanwhile, pop the in two batches.) Remove from the there is little else to harvest]. beans out of their skins so you’re oven and leave to cool. Sow another crop under glass in left with the bright green beans, 2 Combine the tomatoes, beans, midwinter, and continue sowing and set aside. (This is optional, but parsley, vinegar and oil in a bowl, batches through April, directly in the colour, texture and flavour is season well and set aside. the ground when the temperature’s improved. Discard the skins.) 3 Spread about 1/2 tsp of nduja over above 5C. This will give you regular 3 Heat a small, dry frying pan over each baguette slice and arrange on harvests until the end of summer. a medium heat and fry the pancetta a serving platter. Spoon over the for 5-7 mins until crisp and golden. tomato and bean mixture over the Are there different varieties Drain the broad beans and add to baguette slices and serve. of broad beans? the pancetta along with the lemon At this time of year, Windsor are zest and mint. Squeeze over one of PER SERVING 107 kcals • fat 2g • saturates 1g • ready to pick, after being sown in the lemon halves and season well. carbs 17g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.3g spring. These are thought to have Cook for 1-2 mins to warm through, the best flavour. Longpods are then remove from the heat. tip hardier, so good for overwintering, 4 Drain the pasta, reserving a but you can grow dwarf varieties if mugful of the water, then return to If you have any leftover tomato and space is limited. For red seeds, try the pan along with the pancetta and bean mixture, it can be enjoyed as Red Epicure (spring sown); for white, broad bean mixture, the ricotta and a salad or on toast for a light lunch. Aquadulce Claudia (autumn sown); a few tablespoons of the reserved and for green, Imperial Green pasta cooking water. Mix together, Longpod (spring sown). adding more of the reserved water if needed to create a slightly glossy How easy is it to grow your own? sauce. Divide the pasta between Broad beans are a hardy crop, so bowls, squeeze over the remaining you rarely have to worry about cold lemon half and scatter with the weather. But, don’t grow them in parmesan, if you like. waterlogged soil. Plant in a sunny spot in fertile soil, stake tall varieties, GOOD TO KNOW calcium • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day and water when they’re in flower. PER SERVING 616 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 8g • Black bean aphid is an extremely carbs 76g • sugars 4g • fibre 14g • protein 32g common pest and can be controlled • salt 1.4g by pinching out the young shoots where the pest gathers. 102 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

weekend Gooseberry cheesecake 1 Tip the gooseberries, 2 tbsp of the zest in a bowl, and mix well to tip elderflower cordial and the orange combine. Sift in the icing sugar Sharp gooseberries go so well and mix everything together. Fold For a simple with the sweet cordial and creamy juice into a saucepan. Cook over a in three-quarters of the cooked and cost-efficient mascarpone in this cheesecake. gooseberries along with 1 tbsp of dessert, try our medium heat for 10 mins until the their cooking liquid, then pour this gooseberry fool SERVES 12 PREP 20 mins plus over the biscuit base. Chill for at at: bbcgoodfood. at least 4 hrs 30 mins chilling gooseberries have softened but not least 4 hrs or overnight. com/gooseberry- COOK 12 mins EASY V 4 Just before serving, remove the fool broken down completely. Set aside. cheesecake from the tin and put 750g gooseberries 2 Line the base of a deep 23cm on a cake plate or stand. Spoon the 4 tbsp elderflower cordial springform cake tin with baking remaining gooseberries over the 1 orange, zested and juiced middle of the cheesecake, along 125g ginger biscuits parchment. Blitz all the biscuits with a drizzle of the cooking liquid. 125g digestive biscuits 125g unsalted butter in a food processor to fine crumbs, GOOD TO KNOW vit c 500g soft cheese PER SERVING 447 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 20g • 250g mascarpone then tip into a bowl. Melt the butter carbs 33g • sugars 24g • fibre 3g • protein 5g • 125g icing sugar salt 0.8g over a low heat and stir into the biscuit crumbs to combine. Tip into the tin and press down into an even base. Chill for at least 30 mins or up to 1 hr. 3 Put the soft cheese, mascarpone, remaining cordial and the orange AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 103

Exclusive subscriber offer Durif SAVE 40% ON A SPECIALLY CURATED CASE – SEE PAGE 36 FOR MORE OFFERS Each month Henry Jeffreys showcases a different grape variety – this month, Durif. Plus, a great deal on a case of reds A grape variety you’ve probably never heard of, but likely Needtoknow Tastingnotes tasted, Durif from France is better known as Petite Sirah in California, where it crops up in all kinds of blends. For a Durif is a natural cross between Durif makes big, warm-hearted Wine case photograph DAVID COTSWORTH long time, it was thought to be Syrah. It’s a bold flavour- Syrah and Peloursin, an obscure wines, evoking rich fruit like packed bruiser, at home in hot climates like California or French variety. Despite its plums, blueberries and cherries, Australia, and now rarely seen in its native France. heritage, though, it’s now often with chunky tannins. It very rare at home in France. takes very well to oak ageing, Wine Club Star which softens its wild side and Durif was introduced to accentuates the spice. Black Duck Durif 2020 California in 1884 as Petite Sirah, where it became one of the It’s not often aged for very Made in New South Wales by winemaker backbones of the state’s wine long, but with its full body and Sam Trimboli, this was aged in American industry, though it was often tannin, better examples can age oak with just a little Petit Verdot for spice. confused with Syrah.With its for 10-20 years. If the grapes are It’s great for barbecues (think rump steak, deep colour, it’s often used to picked too late, it can be highly merguez sausages or spicy lamb). But, if darken blends in California. alcoholic and taste a bit like port. you’re swerving meat, it’s also great with rich veg stews like sweet potato tagine. In recent years, it has been Durif should be served at cool overshadowed by the likes of room temperature. With its big Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, but is again flavours and high alcohol, it’s the BBC Good Food team, selects all beginning to be appreciated as it usually best served with suitably of the wines on offer to BBC Good Food is so suited to the state’s climate. hearty food, especially involving readers. Henry writes about wine for As a late-ripening variety, it loves red meat. Durif loves spice, so The Guardian and The Spectator, and on heat, but is also widely planted in think slow-cooked Mexican his blog, worldofbooze.wordpress.com. Washington state and Mexico. shoulder of pork, black bean He’s also a judge in the Best Drinks Producer category stew or penne arrabiata. It can for the BBC Food and Farming Awards. His book, In Australia, especially Victoria, take a bit of sweetness, too, The Home Bar (£25, Jacqui Small), is out now. it’s bottled as a varietal and and goes well with ham baked blended with Shiraz (also known in molasses and spicy Chinese- as Syrah) and you can find it in style aubergine dishes. South Africa as well. A wine for every dish Ever wondered which white wine to match with roast chicken? Or curious as to the best reds for steak night? Get clued-up with Henry’s tasting notes and recipe pairings for a range of wines and impress your friends. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/wineclub. 104 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

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TREASURES AFTERNOON TEA FAVOURITES Put the kettle on and lay on a spread of bite-size quiches, blueberry scones and a crowd-pleasing teacake with raspberry frosting Mini quiches side. Re-roll any offcuts and make more until you’ve used up all the MAKES 18-20 PREP 30 mins plus pastry. Chill for 30 mins (if baking 30 mins chilling COOK 50 mins in batches, chill the offcuts, too). EASY ❄ 2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Line each pastry case with 300g shortcrust pastry a piece of foil and fill with baking plain flour, for dusting beans. Bake for 10 mins, then lift 4 rashers back bacon, out the foil and beans and bake for another 5 mins. Meanwhile, fry fat trimmed, chopped the bacon in a little oil until crisp. vegetable oil, for frying 3 Divide the bacon and half the 100g gruyère, grated cheese between the cases. Beat the 2 medium eggs eggs and cream together, then pour 125ml double cream over the bacon and cheese until the You’ll also need cases are almost full. Scatter over 18-20 mini tartlet tins the remaining cheese. Bake for 20-25 mins until golden and puffed 1 Roll the pastry out on a lightly up. Leave to cool, then chill before floured surface until very thin. serving. Can be made a day ahead. Cut out circles that are 1cm larger than the holes of a tartlet tin. Line PER SERVING (20) 138 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 5g • the holes with the pastry (bake in carbs 6g • sugars 0.2g • fibre 0.5g • protein 4g • batches if you don’t have two tins), salt 0.3g pressing into the base and up the 106 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

weekend Raspberry & pistachio teacakes SERVES 20 PREP 20 mins plus 15 mins cooling and setting COOK 55 mins EASY V 150g shelled pistachios 275g golden caster sugar 250g butter, softened 3 eggs 275g self-raising flour 75g Greek yogurt a little milk (optional) sugar flowers, pearl sugar or sprinkles, to decorate (optional) For the raspberry icing 150g raspberries 300g icing sugar 1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4 and line a 15 x 25cm cake tin with baking parchment. Put the pistachios in a food processor with half the sugar and blitz until the nuts are finely chopped. Tip into a bowl, add the remaining sugar and the butter and beat with an electric whisk until creamy. Add the eggs one at a time, then beat in the flour and yogurt until smooth, adding a little milk if it’s too thick. 2 Spoon the batter into the tin, smooth the surface with a spatula and bake for 50-55 mins, or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean, with no wet crumbs clinging to it. Leave to cool in the tin for 15 mins, then turn the cake out onto a board. Remove and discard the baking parchment, then leave to cool completely. Cut into neat squares. 2 To make the icing, put the raspberries in a pan with 2 tbsp water and cook briefly until soft and juicy. Push the mix through a sieve and discard any pips. Whisk in the sugar until you have a smooth pink icing. Pour this over the cooled cake, then decorate with sugar flowers, pearl sugar or sprinkles, if you like. Leave to set before serving. PER SERVING 319 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 7g • carbs 41g • sugars 30g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.4g AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 107

weekend Blueberry scones MAKES 8 PREP 15 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V 370g self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp baking powder 40g golden caster sugar 1 large lemon, zested 80g cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes 300g blueberries 100ml single cream 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 eggs, plus 1 beaten egg for glazing 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6 and line a baking tray with baking parchment. Put the flour, baking powder, sugar and lemon zest in a large bowl, and stir to combine. Rub the butter in using your fingers until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs (don’t rub too thoroughly – some larger lumps are preferable). Add the blueberries and toss to combine. 2 In a small jug, mix together the cream, vanilla and eggs, then pour the wet ingredients into the dry. Use a cutlery knife to stir everything together until the mixture starts to form a dough. Tip onto the work surface and gently knead until the dough just comes together. Lightly flour the work surface and flatten the dough into a disc, about 2.5cm thick. Use a sharp knife to cut the disc into eight triangles. 3 Transfer the scones to the prepared baking tray, then lightly brush the tops with the beaten egg. Bake for 20-25 mins, or until deep golden brown. Once cool, will keep in an airtight container for three days. PER SERVING 329 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 7g • carbs 44g • sugars 9g • fibre 2g • protein 8g • salt 0.6g For more afternoon tea recipes, visit bbcgoodfood.com/ afternoon-tea-recipes 108 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

How to start a food business We meet the entrepreneurs who overcame challenging conditions to make their visions a success Also in the opinion section Sri Lankan Keeping The latest at home it local cookbooks A recipe from Cynthia Why our columnist is only Find out which new Shanmugalingam, p116 shopping for UK produce, p115 releases we love, p117 AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 109

Start a food business We turned adversity into opportunity Be inspired by entrepreneurs who overcame personal and financial struggles to change their lives, plus get expert advice on doing the same words PUNTEHA VAN TERHEYDEN LEARNING Joe Minoli with his TO COOK OUT wife and four of IN NATURE their five kids Josef Minoli, 38, Flamin’ Joe’s BBQ, Caerphilly After lockdowns all but shut Joe cooks with The Campfire Society CIC is Ourtalks down their real estate legal local ingredients a calm space in nature for andhands- and enforcement business, families who need respite from oncooking Joe and his solicitor wife Lauren were little opportunities for the difficulties of their lives. They wereabalm went back to nature. autistic people to learn vital skills get to stay on a farm retreat, talk formany in an environment that suited around the fire, learn to cook and During the first lockdown, Joe them, so, alongside our restaurant enjoy amazing barbecue food. took the couple’s five children and barbecue school, we set up (Tyler, 15; Lucio, seven; Elena, five; a social enterprise to provide “We’re buying seven acres of Giovanna, three; Floria, one) for outdoor cookery classes to the land in west Wales, so those daily walks in the woods near most vulnerable.” moments of community, their home. “I began barbecuing connection and support will outdoors with them, and Lucio, become a permanent fixture.” who is autistic, was particularly flaminjoesbbq.co.uk soothed being in nature.” @flaminjoesbbq Joe’s daily barbecues progressed to cooking extra for friends and JOE’S ADVICE “Keep your overheads low until family. And, after posting pictures you have a customer base. If you can, source of his recipes online, he began good-quality catering equipment second-hand getting paid orders.  – don’t buy it new. Take advice on the best kit and take your time buying it.” “I hired space on a farm, sourced high-quality ingredients from small businesses within the community, and used a pre-order model. I was sold out that first weekend and have been ever since. It was transformative. “There was a chap who’d lost his son, families with autistic children struggling with lockdown and more. Our talks and hands-on cooking were a balm for many, including Lucio and his sister Giovanna, who is also autistic,” Joe explains. “I realised there 110 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

opinion Iwanted tonurture thatlove fornature inthenext generation PLANET-FRIENDLY BAKES AND TREATS Diane Amey, 43, The Wild the next generation. It’s why Tea Bar, Hampshire we hand out free nature Diane gave up teaching to launch her mobile food activities for children. business. “My tea bar started in a tepee in our parish “Everything we use is village park, where I sold my bakes, teas, coffees and hot chocolates, planet-friendly, including our and provided activities for families to help them get to grips with boxes and sleeves. Even our nature. I wanted to be able to cater for and include customers who parchment and stickers break were non-verbal communicators, as my son Finley, 13, has Apert down naturally within a few syndrome, a complex medical condition. As a family, we know weeks. When our brownie the importance of inclusion. boxes took off online during Diane sells bakes out of “My passion for ecology and preserving the planet for the the pandemic, we pledged to a converted horse box future shaped so much of what I did. Older generations planted plant a tree with every order. their own vegetables, shopped locally, cooked seasonal food, had “In a year, we’ve planted 840 The business their own allotments and a much trees, donated hundreds to local began in a tent better grasp of food cycles and the charities and upcycled an old horse delicate balance between nature and commercial farming. I wanted box to serve our local bakes. We to nurture that love for nature in use local suppliers to keep our carbon footprint low and community support high.” wildteabar.com @thewildteabar DIANE’S ADVICE “Be adaptable and move in the direction your customers take you. The pandemic taught us how vital it is to be willing to pivot to keep your business going.” AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 111

HOW TO START YOUR OWN FOOD-RELATED BUSINESS Polly Robinson, food and drinks start-up expert and business coach with the Government’s Help To Grow programme, shares her tips to get your idea going 1 Work out your 6 When marketing, think INDIAN AFTERNOON TEAS ‘value proposition’ about the benefits, What do you offer customers, not the features Anupreet Attridge, 42, The what problem does it solve or gap Instead of stating your opening Indian Team Rooms, Bristol does it fill? What are yours and hours, tell your customers what your product’s strengths?  you offer. For example, ‘delicious When mum-of-three Isawan food and drinks, all day long’. Anupreet found herself advertfor 2 Identify your zoning out of a work foodpop- target audience 7 Identify where you’ll sell meeting, she realised it was time upsand Be specific, because if you’re your products or services to follow her heart. “I had no tookthe trying to reach everyone, you will On your own website, hospitality experience, but had plunge reach no one. Create a dream independent retailers, local grown up cooking Indian food customer, then figure out where markets, food festivals? It’s with my grandmother and wanted they are and how to reach them. difficult to get your product on to start a food business. I saw an a supermarket shelf. Start off advert for food pop-ups and took 3 Have a simple testing the market, proving your the plunge.” business plan concept works and get your Think about the time and branding sorted before pitching. Anupreet delivered a three- resources you need to build course meal of contemporary your business: a website, any 8 Share your story Indian food, which sold out, and equipment, a venue and who Tell people what drove went on to deliver more pop-up your competitors are. you to start your business. Be meals and supper clubs. real and authentic. 4 Formulate a budget “The thing I most wanted was How much will it cost to 9 Tell the world an Indian afternoon tea. I loved set up your business, make your Social media is an the culture of it, with the beautiful product and break even? How amazing free resource to grow crockery and traditions. I plucked much can you charge (check the a community. Focus on the up the courage to host an Indian competition) and how will you platform your target audience afternoon tea and tickets sold fund it – savings, loans from use, rather than spreading out in a week. family and friends, or grants? yourself thin. “Customers asked me to deliver Photographs MALGORZATA SZYDLIK/STEVEN HUGHES/MIREYA GONZALEZ/SUPERFINKY PENGUIN/ 5 Good branding is essential 10 Build a team afternoon tea boxes, and with my ADELE WILLIAMS/RICHARD T HARRIS/ANUPREET ATTRIDGE/JOE MINOLI It helps customers You’ll likely do everything remember your product, and yourself at first, but if you want they may then recommend it to your business to grow, pay others a friend. It’s worth having good to do the bits you’re not good at. photography or learning how Tap into your network who can to do it yourself. help, share expertise or introduce you to people who can. Useful resources Local Enterprise Partnerships Food business registration There are 38 across England. with your local authority Anupreet and her Find yours at lepnetwork.net gov.uk/food-business-registration husband prepare boxes together Hospitality community support Help To Grow The Government and advice countertalk.co.uk heavily subsidises business coaching and training at Guidance and best practice for helptogrow.campaign.gov.uk food businesses from the Food Standards Agency food.gov.uk Expert help and advice for entrepreneurs Helping small businesses enterprisenation.com succeed startupdonut.co.uk 112 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

opinion husband Edward on furlough, we Nikki teaches in gave it a go together. We cooked schools and traditional Indian snacks with nurseries contemporary flavours, like butternut squash and sweetcorn Ilovedhow samosas, paneer and spinach thechildren onion bhajis.” learned withouteven As Anupreet and Edward took realising orders and made deliveries, they heard stories of hardship. “I asked LOW-COST COOKING CLASSES customers to nominate people for a treat. With each batch of Nikki Talbot, 45, Pudding confidence, as well as Nikki began learning afternoon teas, we delivered free and Pie, Sutton Coldfield science and maths. about nutrition for her surprise boxes to people who family’s well-being needed a boost.” Nikki’s twin sons “I have helped Staffordshire Charlie and Tom arrived City Council to reduce obesity Anupreet had been through prematurely at 25 weeks, and increase nutritional hard times herself after the loss of and sadly, two months later, awareness, and I help identify their stillborn daughter, Emma. Tom passed away. “The loss the barriers people on low pushed everything into sharp incomes feel they have in “People’s kindness during our perspective. Charlie came eating healthy food. I’ve bereavement helped immensely, home, but remained very small. created a host of simple and there were a lot of people in I began learning about nutrition value-for-money recipes as our Bristol community who to nurture him – and later, well as batch-cooking tips needed the same, including a lady our younger son Louie – with being rolled out on an app. going through breast cancer, an good food. I also run video lessons for elderly couple coming to terms carers and teachers to help with a dementia diagnosis, and “When the boys were four and them with better nutrition a mother with a young girl who’d six, I took voluntary redundancy because this is where lost her dad. They were very and used the money to set up education is so needed moved to receive our boxes. We Pudding and Pie, teaching and effective. also regularly packaged mini children how to cook nutritious boxes of snacks and scones to food in schools and nurseries. “I love seeing the distribute to homeless people.” confidence grow in the anupreetattridge.com “I loved how the children children and adults who learned without even realising, attend my cooking classes.” @theindiantearooms picking up soft skills, like puddingandpie.org.uk socialising and boosting their ANUPREET’S ADVICE @puddingandpielimited “If you have an opportunity, always say yes, even if you have no idea how to pull it off. Figure out the ‘how’ later.” Anupreet’s Indian snacks NIKKI’S ADVICE “Know your ‘why’. Why are you doing this? Do something you love, and it’ll never feel like work again.” AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 113

holidays Scandinavia Culinary Stars cruise On this seven-night gourmet-themed Princess cruise, you’ll be joined by some of Britain’s best-loved chefs: John Torode, Matt Tebbutt and Rachel Allen Seven-night cruise from £599pp* departing 26 August 2022 P art of the joy of travelling is his calling in the world of food, and WHAT’S INCLUDED discovering fantastic new entertaining everyone with tales ● Round-trip travel from Southampton, cuisines, but just imagine from his time spent in Wales at his if you didn’t have to wait to reach award-winning restaurant, The departing 26 August 2022 your destination before all the Foxhunter. And, Rachel Allen – TV ● Seven days’ accommodation in a contemporary foodie fun began. Well, this chef, best-selling cookery writer Culinary Stars cruise promises and celebrated teacher at the stateroom aboard the Enchanted Princess to make that dream a reality. world-famous Ballymaloe Cookery ● A star-studded line-up – John Torode, Matt Tebbutt School in County Cork – will inspire Princess always strives to deliver you with her love of great food. and Rachel Allen – performing two cooking demos each exceptional dining experiences, but ● A wide range of inclusive dining options throughout this Culinary Stars cruise goes to LIFE ON BOARD the next level and offers something The treats don’t stop there. the ship, and also speciality dining available at an to tickle everyone’s taste buds. From the moment you step You’ll sail from Southampton to aboard Enchanted Princess, you’ll additional cost beautiful Scandinavia on the feel welcomed and completely ● Onboard activities and entertainment, from stargazing luxurious Enchanted Princess, with at home. Enjoy spectacular an exciting, star-studded culinary sweeping views from one of more on the top deck and Movies Under the Stars, to original line-up whipping up magic live in than 1,400 balconies on the ship, the kitchen for you along the way. and discover diversions for every musical productions and a state-of-the-art casino mood while on board. From the ● A variety of exciting shore excursions available The cruise will stop at foodie tranquil Sanctuary – a retreat hotspots such as Oslo, Copenhagen reserved especially for adults at an additional cost and Skagen, and en route you can – to a variety of innovative look forward to John Torode – best new dining options, there’s ITINERARY Exclusive offer for known as the straight-talking co-host something for everyone. BBC Good Food readers and judge of BBC One’s MasterChef Day 1 Sail from – sharing his passion for British Plus, at each destination, Southampton Each booking will recieve a produce and offering a fascinating a host of thrilling excursions Day 2 At sea free copy of Rachel Allen’s insight into his illustrious career. are ready and waiting, should Day 3 Norway cookbook Soup Broth Bread+ the mood take you.** Days 4-5 Copenhagen, Saturday Kitchen’s Matt Tebbutt Denmark (overnight will also be chatting about finding onboard) Day 6 Skagen, Denmark Day 7 At sea Day 8 Return to Southampton Call 0344 338 8671 or vTiOsitBOpOriKncess.com/themedcruises Terms & conditions: *Fares shown are subject to availability based on two adults sharing the lowest available grade within the stateroom type specified and include taxes, fees and port expenses. Prices and availability are correct at time of publishing and may go up or down. **Excursions carry an additional cost. +To apply for your free book, please send proof of holiday booking to [email protected]. Your booking is with Princess Cruises, ABTA V8764 ATOL 6294. 114 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

opinion Joanna Blythman My UK-only food shopping challenge I’ve spent the last year trying to eat food that hasn’t come from overseas. You might be surprised at what I discovered For the last year, I have been Relying conducting an experiment more on to see what foods we eat in food from our household could be bought the UK from UK producers. gives me a greater Nagging food shortage anxiety sense of reminded me that many of the control ingredients we take for granted come via a long, multi-link supply Ok, tuna was off the menu. No prepared to go with the flow of chain, which makes their supply great loss, because so often its long the UK seasons. Many vegetables vulnerable to disruption. The idea supply chain means that it’s vapid we assumed were imported of relying more on food from the and extremely expensive by the (peppers, aubergines, fennel) UK gives me a greater sense of time we eat it. Dairy was a dawdle. can now be UK-grown. security and personal control. With the exception of mascarpone and ricotta (that’s a business I realised that in our household, Even early on in my experiment, opportunity for British companies we were eating little imported I saw how easy it was to make right there), there was no issue fruit. Autumnal Turkish 95 per cent of what we consume finding an array of products. pomegranates or Indian mangoes UK-sourced, with just a couple are imported high points, but of caveats. First, it was clear that I have been buying organic otherwise, the backbone of our my British-first buying policy flour from UK grains for years, fruit year is UK-grown apples, only worked when shopping for so no adjustment in buying habits pears, berries and rhubarb, ingredients, not ultra-processed was needed there, but initially I backed up with imported citrus. foods with multiple composite thought most of the dried legumes ingredients and additives. I use would be imported. Yet, UK Honestly, this last year has Ingredient labelling on the enterprises are even chipping shown me how well we eat when latter doesn’t routinely disclose away at that category. Hodmedod’s our purchases are UK-produced. country of origin. in Suffolk, for instance, grows We won’t be looking back. fava beans. Its portfolio includes Second, I allowed myself a quinoa, pasta made from UK- Our contributing editor Joanna is an derogation for ingredients that are grown grains, lentils, chia seeds, award-winning journalist who has impossible to source from the UK spelt and rye flour. written about food for 25 years. She at any time of year. Life without is also a regular contributor to BBC rice, chocolate, nuts, dried fruits Vegetables were surprisingly Radio 4. @joannablythman or lemons? Unthinkable. So, my unproblematic, as long as we were allowance of imported items included extra virgin olive oil, coconut and toasted sesame oil, soy sauce, pomegranate molasses and vanilla, along with spices, brown sugars, maple syrup and grains like freekeh. Shopping for eggs and fresh meat was a breeze, and even in the cured meat department, lots of smaller British producers have created top-drawer equivalents to prosciutto and nduja. AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 115

Cookbook challenge Rambutan: Recipes from Sri Lanka by Cynthia Shanmugalingam Longing to visit Sri Lanka, editor Keith Kendrick finds Rambutan’s recipes a comfort Ihave always wanted to visit troubles. We’re desperate to visit, Sinhalese and indigenous cooking, Sri Lanka. Friends have raved using ingredients native to the about the friendliness of and that longing intensified after island (like cinnamon, curry its people, the beauty of the leaves and cassava). It’s the fresh, reading Cynthia Shanmugalingam’s beautiful book, Rambutan. Born in countryside, the majesty of its Coventry, Cynthia is the youngest fragrant curry leaves especially ancient monuments and, most of child of Sri Lankan immigrant that make Sri Lankan dishes so all, its cuisine – fiery curries heady parents who fled the 1980s civil distinctive. Buy them at specialist with the perfume of curry leaves. war before moving back to their shops or online, strip the leaves I was so enamoured I took a cookery homeland. And, it was during her from the branches and freeze course to learn how to make Sri visits to the country that Cynthia them. They last for ages and can Lankan food and in 2019, booked a created her own food experiences be added straight to the pan. Recipe adapted holiday of a lifetime there with my and developed the recipes handed I’ve made several dishes from from Rambutan wife and three teenagers. Then, Rambutan, including burnt hispi by Cynthia the terrorist atrocities happened down by her grandmother, which cabbage (below), hoppers, sambols Shanmugalingam and we didn’t go. We booked again now grace Rambutan (named after (£26, to go this year – the country was the hairy fruit). Sri Lankan cuisine and curries – everything from Bloomsbury), crying out for tourists following Photographs © the pandemic – but, again, had to combines the Javanese, Malay, roast aubergine to succulent pork. Alex Lau, 2022. pull out because of the recent Indian, Arab, Portuguese, African, I hope that I can one day take my Dutch and British influences that family to enjoy Sri Lankan cuisine came into the island with Tamil, in its natural setting. Burnt turmeric hispi 1 Drain and dry the lentils with a tea cabbage varai towel or kitchen paper. Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a frying pan over a medium Cabbage develops a nutty flavour heat. When the oil is shimmering, add and makes a pretty, delicate dish if the dried lentils, mustard seeds, cumin you slice it into wedges and blacken seeds, green chilli and curry leaves. it in a hot pan. You can then cover Fry for 4-5 mins until the lentils are the lot with a traditional fragrant, golden. Spoon the mixture into crunchy mix of fried lentils, a small bowl and set aside for later. coconut, curry leaves, chilli flakes 2 Tip the onion into the pan with and some tempered whole spices. 1 tbsp oil. Fry for 4-5 mins until soft and translucent. Add the turmeric and SERVES 2-3 PREP 15 mins grated coconut, cook for 30 seconds COOK 15 mins EASY V or so, stirring occasionally, then add to the bowl with lentils and spices. 2 tbsp urad dal, rinsed and 3 Heat 1 tsp oil in a frying pan soaked for 10 mins over a high heat and, when the oil is shimmering, add the cabbage wedges, 2 tbsp coconut or vegetable oil, cut-side down. Do not move them for plus 1 tsp 2 mins – keep cooking until blackened. Turn over and repeat, ensuring the 2 tsp black mustard seeds stalk is cooked through. 1 tsp cumin seeds 4 Spoon over the spiced onion and 1 green chilli, sliced lentil mix. Sprinkle with chilli flakes. 10 fresh curry leaves 1/2 onion, sliced GOOD TO KNOW vegan • folate • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • 1 tsp ground turmeric gluten free 50g freshly grated coconut PER SERVING (3) 206 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 13g • 1 small (250g) hispi or pointed spring carbs 9g • sugars 2g • fibre 4g • protein 5g • salt 0.1g cabbage, cut into wedges 1/2 tsp chilli flakes 116 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

Books for cooks opinion What Fiona Forman is cooking this month Meliz’s Kitchen MUST-TRY by Meliz Berg (£25, Ebury Press) RECIPE Turkish-Cypriot food is perfect for summer; think meze in the garden and barbecue kebabs Duck pancakes served with grain salads. Food writer Meliz shares the recipes she learned from her mum, including her childhood favourite, chicken & chickpea rice, as well as the quick dishes she makes for her own children. Must-try recipe Potato, spinach & cheese filo pie Recipe image ©LIZZIE MAYSON Simply My First Meals Chinese by Suzie Lee by Grace Mortimer (£20, HQ) (£20, Hardie Grant) This book is a saviour for busy parents. It’s Suzie Lee won BBC’s Best full of five-ingredient meals that even the Home Cook in 2020, and in her first cookbook, she shares easy, fun recipes from her heritage. fussiest kids will enjoy, and there are so many I always make the same stir-fry noodles and fried rice, so I can’t wait to get stuck in and expand my repertoire – first on my list clever ways with hidden veg and baked beans. are her veggie Singapore noodles, crispy pork belly, dumplings, Hong Kong-style chicken wings and Suzie’s version of my I tested the baked bean bobble patties on my favourite duck pancakes. There’s a takeaways chapter where you can recreate your usual Friday night order for a lot less money, veg-avoiding toddler, and he ate six! including beef & black bean sauce and king prawn sesame toast. Must-try recipe Carrot & cashew pesto pasta Suzie proves Chinese cookery doesn’t have to be complicated – stock up your storecupboard with her list of staples, and you can create a huge range of flavoursome dishes. MORE FROM BBC GOOD FOOD Ultimate On your tablet Podcast Tune in for Cakes Download our lively chats Improve your interactive app at with the baking skills the Apple App Store. Good Food with 148 pages team, Tom of recipes, Good Food Kerridge decorating how-to videos and Britain’s tips and other Sharpen your cookery best and clever ideas for skills with our videos. brightest showstopping Find over 200 at in food. cakes, £6.99. bbcgoodfood.com/videos. AVAILABLE AT bbcgoodfood.com/podcast AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 117

Best buys 3 4 Junior food & reviews writer Maga 7 Flores-Trevino rounds up the best new products to have in the kitchen Kitchen picks 12 6 5 8 1 Urban Bar Savoy shaker 4 LEKUE star ice cube tray Try using it to prepare the corn for Melissa £12.95, masterofmalt.com £5.99, robertdyas.co.uk Thompson’s recipes on page 47. Crafted from Japanese stainless steel, this Add some fun to your drinks with a handful of three-piece shaker has an internal strainer for star-shaped ice cubes. The tray has a lid, too, 7 Sho 530ml food flask perfectly swirled cocktails. On the side, there so there are no spills. Try filling with squash £13.50, shoreusable.com is a knurled band to help with grip, too. and drop the cubes into your jug of water. As well as keeping food hot for a guaranteed 10 hours and cold for 20, this flask comes with 2 Yamazaki Tower fruit basket 5 Vango Cuisine foldable camping kettle a stainless steel spork hidden away in the lid, £33, Amara 1.5L £24, John Lewis & Partners plus an extra compartment for condiments. In sleek black, this steel basket will keep your This collapsible kettle is a camping essential for Store ice cream on a hot day with sprinkles fruit fresh with plenty of space for aeration. morning brews and afternoon cups of tea with kept separately, or a salad and dressing. It’s a great centrepiece for a table and, when no fuss. It’s safe for use on a gas cooker and the sun hits it, it creates a striking shadow. also induction and electric hobs, which is very 8 SUNNYLiFE pool-side tumblers handy in case of emergencies at home. £24 (set of four), Anthropologie 3 Thermic glass jug From a design collective based in sunny £17.65, mbswholesale.co.uk 6 Chef’n corn cob stripper Sydney, Australia come these tinted tumblers This double-walled glass jug keeps drinks cool £6.99, souschef.co.uk that will add a stylish note to any picnic or day for longer as it has more insulation. Whether This cheerful gadget offers an easy way to add out on the beach. They’re sold in a set of four, you fill it with lemonade, sangria or even just fresh corn to your summer dishes – just insert each tumbler with its own 70s hue, so you’ll water, it will impress guests at the garden table. the fresh cob and twist to strip the kernels. have no trouble picking out your drink. 118 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

Food 1 opinion 2 picks 4 3 5 1 Stein’s at Home luxury Words MAGA FLORES-TREVINO barbecue box 6 £165, shop.rickstein.com Feeding six to eight, this meal AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 119 box from Rick Stein comes with everything prepared. Start with fresh sea bass ceviche paired with pomegranate, shallot, tomato and chilli, followed by a spatchcock chicken with tarragon butter, and six individual ribeye steaks with Rick’s own pepper mix. There’s a cherry tomato and thyme salad, potato salad and Tarquin’s Cornish gin for a refreshing G&T, plus strawberry cheesecakes to finish. 2 Tongue In Peat peat-smoked tomato juice £14.39 (three 500ml bottles), tongueinpeat.com If you like a bloody mary with a hefty kick, try this salty, smoky mix made by cold-infusing fresh tomatoes over Scottish peat. 3 Merchant Gourmet Fiery Jamaican-style grains & pulses £2 (250g), Morrisons Merchant Gourmet’s hearty mix of rice, pearl barley, bulgur wheat, quinoa and mixed beans is spiced with a Scotch bonnet paste and cooled down with coconut cream and lime. Blitz in the microwave, then pair with barbecued chicken or some charred veg. 4 Oppo Brothers 12 salted caramel ice cream balls £4 (186ml), Tesco An ideal afternoon pick-me-up for a hot summer’s day, these salted caramel ice cream balls have a thin chocolate layer with a satisfying snap, giving way to smooth caramel flavour with notes of coffee in the centre. 5 Babylonstoren Mourvèdre Rosé 2022 £18.99, shop.thenewtinsomerset.com South Africa’s Babylonstoren is the sister estate to Somerset’s The Newt, much loved by gardeners and food lovers. The 2022 rosé is made in classic Provence style, with a taste reminiscent of berries, watermelon and pomegranate. 6Wel Well & Truly Crunchies in sea salt & cider vinegar £2 (100g), Ocado Twists of corn in a classic British seasoning deliver crunch and tang to rival traditional potato crisps.

Better baking Impress family and friends with tried and tested recipes for every occasion Kids’ party cakes Family favourite bakes OUT IN SELECTED STORES NOW. Can’t get Celebratory showstoppers to the shops? Order yours at magsdirect.co.uk Collect our other great titles Visit the Apple app store to download digital issues in the Home Cooking Series, including Good Food’s Healthy, Vegan and Vegetarian Summer. HOME Thoroughly tested recipes COOKING SERIES from BBC Good Food

opinion Marverine Cole Summer beers for celebrations Our family will be celebrating together this August, and remembering my dear brother with some brews he’d have loved August is a celebratory like Studio Lager from Signature Amarillo – all dancing around in Lakes Brew Co month for me – four family Brew (see my top picks, below, there, it’s divine. Plus, Lakes Brew NE Session IPA birthdays, including mine! right). This award-winning indie Co are a brand-new brewery made – but as we get together for those brewery is more than used to up of brewers who joined together £3.75 per momentous occasions, there’ll be making collaboration beers with last autumn after being made 440ml can, one person missing for the first bands like The Darkness, Hot redundant from another brewery. lakesbrewco.com time ever: my older brother, who Chip and Big Joanie. Sam and the So, for anyone who’s not yet braved we lost suddenly earlier this year. team at the Walthamstow brewery this beer style, this may well be Brixton Fitz loved playing cricket and produced this Czech pilsner the one that turns your head. Brewery rugby in the summer sun, so as an homage to people in the People Pale whenever I feel the sun on my independent music scene that I’m not one for limited editions, £1.80 per face now, I remember him fought to survive throughout but my final suggestion is one: 330ml can, even more keenly. the pandemic. And, get this: it Brixton Brewery has brewed its brixtonbrewery. donated £250,000 worth of beer first-ever alcohol-free beer, People When I was about seven years to struggling venues last year. Pale, in celebration of a new book com old, he initiated me into the joys That’s as impressive as this Studio by Candice Carty-Williams (you of punk music, leaving me with Lager tastes: straightforward, might have read her cracking Signature Brew an indelible love for The Clash, clean, refreshing, and with just debut, Queenie). This beer (see studio lager The Sex Pistols, Buzzcocks, enough strength (4% ABV) to right), which Candice worked £13.49 (for six Siouxsie and the Banshees and help get your dancing feet moving with the brewery to develop, 330ml cans), other classic bands. Wild, when at any gig or festival you find it marks the release of her second signaturebrew. I think back to those times, but at this summer. novel, People Person. It’s a co.uk he was always something of an refreshing pale ale, pouring understated rebel. He also loved Speaking of award-winners, slightly cloudy, but with a hint of going to loud, thrashy punk gigs, there’s a more-than-spectacular tropical flavour that will help an nodding away and tapping his feet, New England Session IPA by indulgent afternoon of reading never too animated. So, I think Lakes Brew Co (above, right), tick along. And, let’s not forget he’d secretly approve of a beer located in the heart of Kendal the groovy can art that has no in the Lake District. It won best less than five different designs Fitz was always bottled or canned beer at the – grab a few while you can. an understated recent Society of Independent rebel – he loved Brewers (SIBA) Independent Beer Here’s wishing you a summer of going to loud, Awards. The judges described it abundance, that you can celebrate thrashy punk as being ‘hazy, hoppy and tropical’, with everyone dear to you, while gigs, nodding and I agree with the first two. It cherishing the gift of life. away and pours a cloudy yellow and has tapping his feet a moderate bitterness when it To read more from Marverine, hits your tongue. The additional go to bbcgoodfood.com/author/ delight for me is on the nose: marverinecole gooseberries jump out for me, but everyone’s nose is unique. Marverine is an accredited beer Nevertheless, this NE Session sommelier, broadcaster, journalist IPA is a slightly stronger ‘session’ and a member of the British Guild beer than ones you might be used of Beer Writers. She’s conducted to, at 4.7% ABV (see middle, right). tastings on ITV’s This Morning, and With a delightful chorus-line appeared on various BBC shows. combination of hops – Ekuanot, Listen to her podcast, Beer Beauty, Mosaic Cryo, Citra, Eldorado and wherever you get your podcasts. marverinecole.co.uk @TVMarv AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 121

Book early-bird tickets 24-27 November 2022 NEC Birmingham Entertainment | Tasting | Shopping | Inspiration Days out donít get any tastier Discover a delicious food-filled everything Good Food, taste our artisan producers, and day out with your friends and and buy new products and enjoy a special day out full family this autumn, as the ingredients, get inspiration of shopping, eating, and live and advice from world-class entertainment. BBC Good Food Show Winter chefs, take part in tasting Enjoy our 25%* early-bird returns this November and sessions, taste, try and buy the saving on tickets and a free promises not to disappoint. finest crafted produce from Big Kitchen seat. Book today! Join us in celebration of A star-studded theatre line-up Enjoy the buzz of live entertainment in the Big Kitchen, as one of the highlights of your day out. Enjoy seeing your favourite chefs cooking live onstage including James Martin, Nadiya Hussain and Michel Roux. Back this year we have Ainsley Harriot bringing plenty of fun and laughter to the stage, and new to the Big Kitchen, TV’s favourite couple John Torode and Lisa Faulkner. For a limited time only grab your free seat in the Big Kitchen, visit the website for more information. Enjoy our 25% early-bird saving on tickets and a free Big Kitchen seat | quote code GF25 Book your tickets today and save XX%*– quote GFRX | bbcgoodfoodshow.com With thanks to our Subscribers save 20%** using your unique 10-digit number when booking sponsors and Show Big Kitchen Get Baking! Stage Festive Kitchen Product supplier and VIP sponsor VIP sponsor supporters: sponsor sponsor sponsor sponsor session sponsor

Add sparkle to your day Be one of our VIPs for the day for an extra-special day out. Not only will you be treated like royalty, but you can also enjoy some VIP treatment during your visit. Our popular VIP ticket includes the best seats in the Big Kitchen, your very own lounge so you can enjoy a glass of fizz between all the shopping and entertainment. But that’s not all, enjoy lots of additional benefits including a VIP cloakroom, breakfast pastries, shopping bag and cookbook. Test your tastebuds Calling all bakers! Meet some of our producers and Back due to popular demand, our taste a range of their products in Get Baking! stage will provide all our Fabulous Food Finds Tasting the inspiration you never knew you Theatre. Start your day with a guided needed for the festive season, from coffee tasting with Adams & Russell sweet treats to savoury showstoppers. Coffee Roasters, take a tour of the And our stage sponsors MasterClass world of spices and seasoning with will be on hand to make sure you BoTree Farm or try some incredible have all the right baking products cheese with Heritage Cheese. and equipment to achieve the perfect Feeling a bit more adventurous? bake! Keep an eye out as the full line- Why not join one of our mystery up of bakers will be announced soon! tasting sessions, where you will discover a selection of unique and delicious products! Spaces are limited, so snap up your spot, before they sell out! Subscribers save 30%** using your unique 10-digit number when booking | bbcgoodfoodshow.com *25% discount is valid on standard general admission tickets. Excludes VIP. **Subscribers save 30% on standard general admission tickets when using their unique subscriber number. Early Bird admission tickets include a seat in the Big Kitchen subject to availability and for a limited time only. Offer ends 7 August 2022. £3.95 transaction fee per e-ticket order. Not all celebrities appear on all days. Details correct at time of print. The BBC logo is a trademark of the BBC. © BBC. The Good Food trademark is used under licence from Immediate Media Company London Limited. Organised and presented by Immediate Live. Immediate Live is the trading name of Upper Street Events Ltd and River Street Events Ltd. These businesses are owned by Immediate Media Company Limited.

advertisement feature sAurswpreieset cVaieratnmaeml pesoer-kstyle As delicious in savoury dishes as they are in desserts, SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins why not sweeten up your next dinnertime with a little COOK 45 mins EASY help from Werther’s Original? 1 tsp vegetable oil, plus a little extra (optional) W hether you choose to enjoy yours classic Butter Candy, there truly is a Werther’s in front of the TV, as a treat when Original for everyone and every occasion. But 800g pork belly, sliced and cut you’re cooking dinner, or even as tucking into these delicious candies straight into bite-sized chunks a pick-me-up when you’re out running errands, from the packet is just the start – they’re pretty one thing’s for sure: Werther’s Original’s long amazing when used in your cooking, too. 1 star anise last-lasting caramels can offer you a piece of 2 lemongrass stalks warmth whenever you need it. Of course, eating is believing. So, why not 3 long shallots, chopped give this aromatic pork dish a go? Sticky, sweet 4 garlic cloves, crushed Between the irresistibly oozy Creamy Filling, and seriously warming, it’s sure to bring some 1 red chilli, finely sliced the wonderfully chewy Creamy Toffee and the extra joy to your day. 250ml coconut water 2 tbsp fish sauce 75g Werther’s Original Butter Candies, finely ground in a high- powered food processor steamed rice, to serve handful of herbs, to serve 1 Heat 1 tsp vegetable oil in a large pan over a medium-high heat. Season the pork belly with salt, then fry in batches, making sure not to overcrowd the pan. Once the pork is browned on all sides, remove from the heat and place on a plate. Set aside. 2 Add the star anise and lemongrass stalks to the same pan, and fry until they release their aromas. If the pan is looking a little dry, drizzle in a little more oil. Add the chopped shallots and fry until translucent, then add the garlic and chilli. Stir fry for 1 min, then pour in the coconut water. Add the cooked pork, fish sauce and ground Werther’s Originals. Turn the heat down to medium and cook, covered, for 20 mins. 3 Remove the lid and simmer for another 10 mins until the pork is sticky. Take off the heat and leave to cool for 2 mins. Serve with steamed rice and top with your choice of herbs. For more warmth inspiration, or to find delicious Werther’s recipes, visit bit.ly/ werthers-unwind or scan the QR code

BOOST YOUR cooking skills Get confident in the kitchen with tips and advice from the Good Food team Watch our skills videos THIS at bbcgoodfood.com/videos MONTH We love to see what you’re making, too: share your recipes on our BBC Good Food Together Facebook page and on Instagram #wearebbcgoodfood Rustle up some mini victoria sponges, p126 Pour the perfect pitcher, p132 Find out about mangoes, p134 NB LEAXCT KLBEEVRERL Y P I ELpaesatrrnyheonwrictohemdawkeitahcsloafstscichedeesses,epr1t2u8sing Learn about pasta filata cheese, p131 & Five of the best gas barbecues, p130 AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 125

WEEKEND PROJECT Teatime treat Make these bite-sized victoria sponges for a birthday celebration or special afternoon tea. Choose your favourite jam for the filling, then add sweetened whipped cream Mini victoria sponges and caster sugar together using the equator using a small Recipe photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART serrated knife. Set aside. Food stylist AMY KINNEAR | Stylist LAUREN MILLER | Other photographs MAKES 12 PREP 20 mins plus an electric whisk until pale and 4 Whip the cream and icing sugar ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS cooling COOK 20 mins EASY together to soft peaks using an V ❄ sponges only fluffy, then whisk in the eggs, one electric whisk. Spread a little jam over the sponge bases, then spoon or 150g unsalted butter, softened at a time, scraping down the sides pipe over a dollop of whipped cream 150g golden caster sugar and sandwich with the sponge tops. 2 eggs of the bowl after each addition. Dust with extra icing sugar before 1 tbsp milk 2 Add the milk, vanilla, flour and serving. Best eaten on the same day. ½ tsp vanilla extract a pinch of salt, then beat again until 150g self-raising flour PER SERVING 380 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 15g • 250ml double cream smooth. Divide the batter evenly carbs 36g • sugars 27g • fibre 1g • protein 3g • 2 tbsp icing sugar, plus extra salt 0.2g between the paper cases – this can for dusting TWIST IT! 185g jam of your choice (strawberry be easily done using an ice cream Citrus Swap out the jam for lemon or orange curd or raspberry works well) scoop. Bake for 17-20 mins, or until and add 1 tsp citrus zest to the sponge batter 1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ the sponges are golden, risen and Chocolate Replace 2 tbsp of the flour with 2 tbsp gas 4 and line a 12-hole muffin tin cocoa powder and fill with chocolate buttercream with paper cases. Beat the butter a skewer inserted into the middles Double-berry Add a layer of sliced strawberries comes out clean. Leave to cool in on top of the jam to bump up the fruity flavours the tin for 10 mins, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Once completely cool, the sponges can be frozen for up to three months. 3 When the sponges are completely cool, remove the paper cases, then split each one in half through 126 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

BEETROOT + CHOCOLATE Adding vegetables to cakes skills isn’t a new thing – the classic YES, IT WORKS! carrot cake, for example. Some Discover more vegetables in particular help burger recipes and tips deepen flavour in sweet treats at bbcgoodfood.com/ and provide moisture as well as nutrition. Try grating a cooked burger-recipes (not pickled!) beetroot into your chocolate cakes or brownies. Visit bbcgoodfood.com for our beetroot and chocolate recipes. + BEETROOT CHOCOLATE STEPS TO SUCCESS KITCHEN HACK HOMEMADE BURGERS Make your pizza The meat  burger; the warmer the mince, cutter work harder Shop-bought mince is the easiest the more the fat will turn to mush. choice, but you have no control over Keeping it cold keeps the burger The sharpness and what cuts are in it. If you do opt for succulent, so shape it and leave it.  mobility of a pizza shop-bought, buy mince that’s cutter makes it 12-15% fat for succulence. Chopping The perfect fit useful for lots of your own beef from chuck steak is Your burger should be a third wider other kitchen a revelation – your burgers will be than the bun. It will shrink as it cooks jobs. Try using it juicier than anything you can buy. and then it will fit the bun perfectly.  to cut soft herbs, Alternatively, ask your butcher to such as parsley, mince chuck steak while you wait, Get cooking  coriander or then cook it as soon as you can.  Put a large, heavy frying pan over dill, by quickly a medium heat. Sear the burgers, moving it back and Simple seasoning  pressing down with a spatula as forth until they’re You’ll find lots of seasoning they cook, for 4-5 mins on each roughly chopped. ideas on bbcgoodfood.com, but side for medium rare, or 6-7 mins a good basic burger is all about for medium. On a barbecue, sear A pizza cutter also works the flavour of the meat – simply the burgers over ashen coals or on a well for trimming pastry, or season it with salt and pepper.   high gas setting for the same times.  use it to cut quesadillas into little triangles. Keep it tender  The build  Don’t overwork the meat, and keep Start with the bottom bun, then the it as cold as possible. The more you burger and build up from there. That scrunch the meat, the tougher the way, the juices will soak into the bun.  AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 127

NEXT LEVEL DOUBLE CRUST We’ve encased the pie fully Blackberry pie in pastry, top and bottom. Because of the type of pastry recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph WILL HEAP we’ve used, it holds together SERVES 8 PREP 50 mins plus at least 1 hr chilling and won’t get a soggy bottom. COOK 40 mins MORE EFFORT V BETTER WITH BUTTER WHY Buttering the dish not only stops the pastry from sticking, but helps it become more crisp and golden. We’ve also dotted the blackberries with butter to enrich their juices during baking. A well-made ‘proper’ pie (that’s FLOUR POWER pastry on the top and bottom, We opted for self-raising or ‘double crust’ as it’s known in flour over plain to give the America) is as much a feat in pastry a bit of puffy texture, construction as it is in flavour. like a shortcake or sweet A pie that falls apart with an scone, which both work undercooked bottom might still taste good, but what you’re well with jammy fruit. really after is pastry that’s Shoot director EMMA WINCHESTER | Food stylist AMY KINNEAR | Stylist SARAH BIRKS robust enough to be moulded into an impressive topping, and cuts into a perfectly clean slice while still being buttery – our shortcake pie pastry has it all. Blackberries aren’t the easiest fruit to bake with either, as the juice they exude can make the pastry soggy, but we’ve got a few tricks up our sleeve to right those wrongs, too. WHAT TO BUY 600g blackberries TOP MARKS 100-125g granulated sugar The lattice topping is 25g butter, plus extra for the tin optional – you’ll still have 2 tbsp cornflour a delicious pie without 1 egg, beaten the extra effort, but there 1 tbsp milk is something iconic vanilla ice cream, to about a lattice top serve (optional) on a fruit pie. For the pastry 300g self-raising flour, plus DOUBLE GLAZING We’ve glazed the top twice to extra for dusting give it a deep, golden sheen 1 tbsp cornflour and more of a sugary crunch. 2 tbsp granulated sugar, plus extra for the topping 150g cold butter, cut into small pieces 150g soft cheese 128 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

ctmhrtpeoAaSoaansirAstteeswtaYrlrpayeli-cllCbluiliahgausHbnsihtnletEetbeg,sEruafsslnpt,aSotbdkaefEyustre,ttcfrawiahyns.eleiisesI’eotvhrseh,mteoetm,oalplaoaakdstid.ntdeigcinoeigtur skills CHILL OUT HOW TO MAKE IT The pastry is easy to work with when it’s cold, but it 1 First, make the pastry. Tip both flours and the can get a bit sticky when sugar into a bowl with a large pinch of salt. Use it’s at room temperature, so your fingers to rub the butter into the flour chill it well and don’t be mixture until it resembles crumble topping, afraid to dust it with flour as then rub in the soft cheese until the pastry comes together. (If it’s still crumbly, add 1 tbsp heavily as you need to iced water and it should come together.) Tip when assembling. onto a surface and knead for 30 seconds, then cut off about a third of the pastry. Mould both aasnWsCudigetHl’aetvaOrnektdIheosCrspoatlEuoelgindOtthgflFeooeurrcStgtroUutrhandGincsisuAhrsle.aRoctlevipede, pieces into flat rounds. Wrap and chill for at least 1 hr. Will keep chilled for up to two days. BERRY SYRUP 2 Wash and drain the blackberries, being careful Tossing the berries in not to break them up, then tip into a bowl with sugar extracts their the sugar. (If they are wild blackberries, they will need slightly more sugar.) Toss together and set juices and creates aside while you roll out the pastry. a natural syrup. 3 Butter a 23cm pie dish and, on a lightly floured surface, roll the larger piece of pastry out into a round that fits the base of the dish with some overhanging. Push the pastry down in and around the dish to line it. Sprinkle the cornflour over the blackberries and gently mix together. Tip the blackberries and all their sugary juices into the pastry case and dot with the butter. Beat together the egg and milk to make a glaze, then brush the edge of the pie with some of it. 4 For an easy pie, simply roll out the rest of the pastry, drape it over the top, then trim and fork or crimp the edges together. For a lattice finish, roll the remaining pastry into a square, roughly 30 x 30cm. Cut out 10 strips of roughly the same width. Lay five of the strips vertically over the pie, then weave with the remaining five horizontally, to create an even lattice over the fruit. Or, if you prefer, you can cut each strip into three thinner strips to weave a more delicate lattice. Pinch the edges, then trim the excess and crimp. Can be assembled and chilled four hours before baking, or baked straightaway. 5 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 with a baking tray inside. Brush the top of the pie with more egg glaze and bake for 20 mins, then brush with the glaze again, scatter generously with extra sugar and bake for another 20-25 mins until the pastry is a deep golden colour and the juices are bubbling. Leave the pie to cool for at least 30 mins, then serve as is, or with ice cream. PER SERVING 484 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 15g • carbs 58g • sugars 25g • fibre 5g • protein 6g • salt 0.1g GO WILD next month This pie is great for using up foraged berries, Tomato soup but bear in mind that wild blackberries aren’t as sweet or juicy as farmed, so you might need to Master this versatile classic up the sugar a little. Wild blackberries will also for an easy lunch. Our need a good wash to flush out any insects. September issue is on sale 25 August. AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 129

5 OF THE BEST Best budget gas gas barbecues barbecue Whether you’re cooking for a crowd George Foreman GFSBBQ1 or just for two, we’ve listed five of With its excellent, even heat coverage, this model our favourite gas barbecues reaches temperature quickly. However, what you see is what you get – there are no extra functions or hidden storage. That said, this delivers, and it’s all you need for a few burgers on a sunny afternoon. Available from Amazon (£124.99), Currys (£129) Best gas Best Boss Grill Deluxe Portable barbecue for basic gas Rather than packing in lots barbecue of high-tech features, the Boss couples or Grill is geared towards getting small families the basics of barbecuing right. All of our test dishes Char-Broil Grill2Go were cooked as we were This is a simple, single-burner gas model that reaches expecting, and showed temperature quickly and has a handy thermometer in well-defined grill lines from the lid. Though it has a relatively large cooking area, it’s top to bottom. This is also a easy to move around the garden and would be a great generously sized barbecue, companion while camping, too. Burgers come off this ideal for a family of four barbecue looking picture-perfect, with well-defined or a small gathering. Available from Appliances grill lines. Just the thing for everyday grilling. Direct (£199.97), Available from Appliances Direct (£143), Amazon (£241.97) BBQ World (£143.99) Napoleon Weber Best Freestyle 365 Genesis Series blow-out gas Easy to ignite and quick EPX-335 to heat, this is a top-line The Weber Genesis is barbecue barbecue. The grilling area a professional-grade is a good size, offering lots Best gas gas barbecue for home of cooking space without barbecue use. It’s our top pick for taking up your entire for serious anyone wanting to create garden. A warming rack big barbecue flavours is suspended above the cooks easily, year-round, from grill to keep food at the a relatively seamless right temperature. The outdoor cooking side burner was the experience. It’s a beast biggest hit, grilling a that’s large enough to cook fabulous steak, and the bottle for up to 10 at a time. For the opener makes this model price, we expected exceptional a social spot on the patio. quality, and we weren’t disappointed.  Available from BBQ World Available from Hayes Garden World (£560.49), Napoleon (£589.99) (£1,799.10), John Lewis & Partners (£1,999), Weber (£2,099) For the full list of expert reviews, go to bbcgoodfood.com/review or scan the QR code 130 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

skills Pasta filata cheese Experts from the Academy of Cheese introduce unctuous artisan cheeses you can try at home Pasta filata cheeses, meaning (e.g. mozzarella and stracciatella) THREE TO TRY ‘stretched paste’, are the fruit of to hard and semi-hard, which go skill, patience and artisanship. through a relatively long ageing 1 PROVOLONE While the name ‘provolone’ Traditional recipes have been process (e.g. caciocavallo and is not protected, there are two protected passed down through the provolone). Regardless of the varieties: Provolone del Monaco PDO, which generations and combine for variety, all pasta filata cheeses must be made with raw cow’s milk in the Naples a group of cheeses that can be share the same unique stretching region, and Provolone Valpadana PDO, which used in stringy, baked recipes, or treatment of the curd. must be made with cow’s milk in the Po Valley. enjoyed cold on a cheeseboard. A great melting cheese, use this in toasties Once the curds are set, they are and pasta dishes, or simply enjoy cold. They represent a group of dipped into near-boiling water, cheeses typically made from which melts them into a solid mass. 2 SCAMORZA Italian for ‘strangled’ or cow’s or water buffalo’s milk, Then, they’re either manually or ‘beheaded’, scamorza is made in a similar originating in the northern mechanically massaged, stretched, way to provolone. It’s tied with string and hung Mediterranean areas of Italy, spun and finally moulded into a to age (hence its name), creating its bulb-like Turkey, and countries of the ball, knot or roll. It’s this energetic shape. It has delicately sweet, milky flavours, Balkan peninsula and Eastern kneading that gives the cheeses and is a great substitute for mozzarella due Europe, although new varieties their finished stretchy consistency. to its melting qualities. Smoked varieties are are emerging in Central and available, which are traditionally smoked Southern America. 1 over beechwood or maple. Photo WILL HEAP | Shoot director EMMA WINCHESTER | Food stylist ROSIE REYNOLDS Although ‘pasta filata’ is an  3 BOCCONCINI Italian for ‘small mouthful’, Stylist LAUREN MILLER. With thanks to heritagecheese.co.uk for supplying the cheeses. Italian phrase, it’s used globally bocconcini are small mozzarella balls, to denote this group of cheeses, usually made from water buffalo’s milk. Creamy which includes fresh and matured and springy in texture, these fresh, unaged types. They may differ in terms cheeses are sweet and milky, and great at of texture, from soft and semi-soft absorbing flavours. Try serving them in a salad varieties, which are eaten fresh made with tomatoes and dressed in olive oil. 2 3 Welcome to our new & Learn more about cheese at academyofcheese.org We’ve teamed up with fellow enthusiasts, cheesegeek, to bring you some of the finest cheeses from the UK and Europe. For more information, and to order yourself a box of specially curated cheese, go to bbcgoodfoodcheeseclub.com AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 131

PitcherDRINKS CABINEpT erfect Whiskey & ginger pitcher Serve sharing jugs for al fresco gatherings SERVES 6 PREP 5 mins EASY V with these recipes from Vuyelo Ndlovu, plus stock up on this summer’s best spirits, 3 limes, cut into wedges chosen by our drinks expert Georgina Kiely ice 200ml bourbon 90ml elderflower liqueur ginger ale, for topping up crystallised ginger and mint sprigs, to garnish 1 Muddle the lime wedges in a large pitcher using a long- handled spoon or muddler. 2 Tip some ice, the bourbon and elderflower liqueur into the pitcher and top up with ginger ale. Stir well. Thread a few pieces of crystallised ginger onto a cocktail stick and use this to garnish the drink, along with a few sprigs of mint. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 170 kcals • fat 0.1g • saturates none • carbs 12g • sugars 10g • fibre 1g • protein 0.2g • salt none Photograph ALEX LUCK | Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN | Food stylist KATY GREENWOOD | Stylist LUIS PERAL Vodka cucumber ice 3 Top up the pitcher with soda tips lemonade 300ml vodka water and stir well again, then soda water, for topping up drop in a few lemon slices Roll the lemons Making your own lemonade lifts just before serving. on your work the flavour of this cocktail, but you 1 Mix the sugar with 180ml hot surface before can use shop-bought to make the water in a heatproof bowl until the GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free juicing to soften recipe even quicker and easier. sugar has dissolved. Leave to cool PER SERVING 243 kcals • fat 0.4g • saturates none • the flesh and completely. Stir in the lemon juice. carbs 30g • sugars 30g • fibre 0.5g • protein 1g • make them SERVES 6 PREP 12 mins EASY V 2 Tip the cucumbers into a blender salt 0.03g easier to juice. with a splash of water and blitz until Strain the 170g golden granulated sugar liquified. Tip some ice, the vodka, cucumber juice 6 large unwaxed lemons, juiced, the lemonade from step 1 and the through a fine puréed cucumbers (see tip, right) mesh sieve if plus extra lemon slices to serve into a large pitcher and stir well. you prefer a 2 organic medium cucumbers, smoother drink. chopped into cubes 132 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2022

Watermelon & non-alcoholic sparkling wine, skills lychee pitcher for topping up Raise a glass For designated drivers, using 1 Blitz the prepared watermelon non-alcoholic wine keeps this in a blender until smooth. Seasonal spirits to sip mocktail feeling grown-up. 2 Tip some ice, the lime juice, lime in the evening sunshine slices, lychee syrup and puréed SERVES 6 PREP 7 mins EASY V watermelon into a large pitcher, and GIN stir well. Top up with non-alcoholic KYRO PINK GIN 1kg watermelon (prepared weight), sparkling wine and stir. Infused with the fresh cut into cubes flavours of foraged GOOD TO KNOW gluten free lingonberries, strawberries ice PER SERVING 126 kcals • fat 0.5g • and rhubarb, this delicate 90ml fresh lime juice, plus lime saturates 0.2g • carbs 29g • sugars 29g drink isn’t sickly sweet. It has • fibre 0.2g • protein 1g • salt 0.03g light red fruit flavours, a full, slices to serve creamy mouthfeel and 120ml lychee syrup elements of spice. £24.75 (50cl), houseofmalt.co.uk Floral gin pitcher 1 Tip some ice into a large pitcher and stir in the gin, VODKA SERVES 6 PREP 8 mins EASY V elderflower liqueur, rose syrup WRY VODKA and grapefruit juice. Filtered the traditional ice 2 Top up with tonic water and way through locally made 300ml dry gin stir. Garnish with grapefruit slices charcoal, this English grain 120ml elderflower liqueur and a rosemary sprig. vodka is smooth enough to 90ml rose syrup sip, but the peppery notes 150ml freshly squeezed red GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free mean it works wonderfully in PER SERVING 269 kcals • fat none • saturates none • cocktails, too. £22 (70cl), grapefruit juice, plus grapefruit carbs 23g • sugars 21g • fibre none • protein 0.1g • silentpooldistillers.com  slices to serve salt 0.1g tonic water, for topping up WHISKY rosemary sprig, to garnish COACHBUILT A well-balanced spirit that blends drams from the five whisky regions of Scotland. Hints of tropical fruits on the nose, followed by cinnamon, subtle sweetness and a long, dry finish. £40.75 (70cl), thewhiskyexchange.com NON-ALCOHOLIC LONDON ESSENCE CO PINK GRAPEFRUIT SODA Strong citrus flavour is balanced with herbal notes. Serve over ice with a lime wedge, or mix with vodka. £22 (24 x 200ml), londonessenceco.com LOW-ALCOHOL SPIRIT EL DECEM APERITIF Bitter with a touch of sweetness, this low-alcohol drink is flavoured with strawberry, grape, fennel and rhubarb. Serve in a refreshing spritz. £30, decemdrinks.com AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 133

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skills new series Test kitchen secrets Pastry know-how Our new columnist, baking Our cookery assistant Helena expert Benjamina Ebuehi, Busiakiewicz shares what she’s answers your questions learned about mangoes Q SHOULD I MAKE is incorporated: instead of folding WHICH MANGO SHOULD I BE LOOKING FOR? MY OWN PUFF in a single block of butter, lots of The most well-known types are alphonso, kesar and PASTRY?  chunks are coated in flour, with Pakistani honey. Each is distinct in flavour; the alphonso fewer turns. This makes the whole has more tropical notes and kesar, an intense sweetness. Homemade puff pastry is delicious process much quicker, but you still Honey mangoes taste, as you’d imagine, like honey! and incredibly satisfying to make. get lots of flaky layers. I often use Seeing all the flaky, buttery layers this method when making things HOW CAN I TELL WHEN THEY’RE RIPE? develop is rewarding, but it does like sausage rolls and turnovers.   Scent is the main indicator. A ripe mango smells sweet, take time and effort. Realistically, and it’s apparent without getting close. The flesh should it’s not something you need to There will, however, always be a yield slightly when touched and slight wrinkling of the skin make from scratch all the time.  place for shop-bought puff pastry. near the stem is often an indicator of ripeness, too. It’s incredibly convenient and the However, the more you practice, best-tasting ones are those that IF A MANGO IS A BIT OVERRIPE OR the easier it becomes. Soon, all are labelled ‘all butter’. These are UNDERRIPE, WHAT SHOULD I DO WITH IT? the rolling, folding and turning perfect for speedy weeknight Mango lassi is one of the most delicious things you can becomes second nature and you’ll dinners or quick desserts when make with less-than-perfect mangoes. Blitz the flesh of be rewarded with a far superior you just haven’t got the time.   two mangoes with 250ml natural yogurt and a pinch flavour to shop-bought versions. each of cardamom and salt. Serve over ice. I tend to make two batches and & freeze one. Just defrost in the I CRAVE MANGO ALL YEAR ROUND – fridge overnight before using.  Benjamina is a London-based baker, WHAT’S THE NEXT BEST THING? food stylist and recipe writer. Her book, Canned alphonso and kesar mango pulp is sold in many Rough puff pastry is a great A Good Day to Bake (£22, Quadrille), major supermarkets. It’s not quite the same, but should middle ground, and the version is out now. carrotandcrumb.com satisfy a craving, and is a good base for mango soufflés. that I make most often. The main difference between this and full @bakedbybenji puff pastry is the way the butter Photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, ISTETIANA/MOMENT/GETTY, LOUISE HAGGER WE ARE Each month, we introduce you to the experts who create content for your favourite food brand TIFFANY CHANG Born in Taipei, Tiffany moved to the US as a child, then to London in 2006. She started a Taiwanese bento box business and supper club in 2015 and is now a contributor to BBC Good Food. She also competed on Channel 4’s Crazy Delicious in 2020. She recently created a series of Good Food video tutorials, including how to make tomato salsa and a summery potato salad. All of the videos are available to watch on our social channels. AUGUST 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 135

easy Try a subscription to Get 5 issues for only £5 £1 Try a subscription to BBC Good Food’s PER sister magazine, O, for just £5*. ISSUE Every issue is packed with stunning, thoroughly tested recipes, plus restaurant recommendations and expert tips to help you level up your cooking skills. Enjoy these great subscriber benefits •Save money on the usual •shop price The convenience of free •delivery direct to your door Delivered in plastic-free, •recyclable paper packaging Unlock access to O’s top 20 summer entertaining recipes digital supplement 3 easy ways to subscribe Scan the QR code to subscribe straightaway Order online at buysubscriptions.com/OLGF822 Call us on 03330 162 127** and quote OLGF822 *This offer is open for UK delivery addresses via direct debit only and is subject to availability. You will pay £5 for your first five issues, then £22.50 every six issues thereafter – still saving 32% on the usual shop price. You will be notified of any future price changes before they take effect. We reserve the right to reject or cancel subscriptions at any point if the customer has previously cancelled their subscription during the trial period for that magazine or any other magazine in the Immediate Media portfolio. This offer ends on 25 August 2022. Standard UK subscription price £71.50; Europe and Republic of Ireland €106; USA and Canada US$168.87; Australia and New Zealand A$171; rest of the world US$143. Usual UK cover price is £5.50. **Calls from landlines will cost up to 9p per minute. Call charges from mobile phones will cost between 3p and 55p per minute but are included in free-call packages. For overseas subscriptions, please call +44 (0)1604 973 735. Please visit buysubscriptions.com/contact for customer service opening hours.