ISSUE 26 – MAY 2022 indieCHAMPIONING DESIGNERS THE FIRST INDIE DIGITAL MAGAZINE FOR THE MODERN SEWER SEW THE AFRICAN LOOK FABRICS & HOW TO SEW Billowy blouses & WITH THEM summer dresses Design your own... HAND-DRAWN SQUARE REPEAT PATTERN 5btihrthday We’re celebrating FIVE years with giveaways from us to you! OXFORD BAG TROUSERS FROM THE GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE WW9aW34.7T04H5-E5PcfbA-4TfaT3E-9R14N4-P8aA7Gff2EedSa.dCd8OM Pattern Pages | 1 The
shop the latest pdf sewing patterns open for summer sewing SYCAMORE LANE DRESS FROM SEW TO GROW 2 | The Pattern Pageswww9a.t3h4e7p0a4tt5e-r5ncpfbag-4efsa.3c-o9m14/4th-8eap7aftft2eerdnabdodu8tique
Happy birthday to us! I always have to pinch myself around this time of year when we from the book. Designed by previous Sewing Bee contestant Juliet celebrate another year at The Pattern Pages. To help us celebrate, Uzor, this trouser pattern is perfect to make and wear now! we have put together some wonderful gifts to give away, just turn Have you ever fancied creating a pattern that could be transferred to page 59 to see how you can enter. on to fabric then here’s your chance. Coralie Grillet explains step- As we are a mother & daughter business, this issue we thought by-step how to create a hand-drawn square repeat pattern, I’m it would be fun to look at some of our favourite family-run sewing certainly going to give this a go! On the fashion front, we share businesses that we have met along the way! Meet seven of them patterns so you can make the latest voluminous blouses and the on page 65. prettiest summer dresses plus the coolest of fabrics for the summer! This issue is the biggest ever and jam-packed! If you live in the Adaku Parker from Dovetailed and Dolpao James from Urbanstax UK and sew, then you will be as excited as us to see The Great talk about African Fabrics and we put you in the mood with a new British Sewing Bee back on our screens! We have teamed up exhibition on African Fashion coming to the V&A London during with Quadrille Publishing who have just launched the book that the summer, which really shouldn’t be missed! Tommie Hernandez accompanies this new series - The Great British Sewing Bee – The discusses how Sirena Patterns has become more than just Modern Wardrobe. We bring you the Oxford Bags Trouser pattern swimsuit patterns, as she expands her empire. Happy sewing! Julie xJulie Bonnar | Editor | [email protected] KEEP IN THE LOOP Graphic Designer Pinterest: Facebook: Instagram: [email protected] @thepatternpages @thepatternpages @thepatternpagesmagazine For advertising opportunities: Please get in touch with [email protected] The Pattern Pages | 3 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
60 CONTENTS SPECIALS Out of Africa 46 Celebrate FIVE years with us! 59 Celebrate African Fashion with this new We have some wonderful gifts to give away! exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum REGULARS Hot fabrics 22 Hooked on books 44 Sew for summer with the latest Get your sewing mojo back with fun fabrics! a good book! On our radar 7 Pattern preview 27 We heart – Pastels 69 Things we thought you might like to Our favourite new sewing patterns Wear these pick and mix colours to know from the sewing community…. hot off the press! prep up your wardrobe 4 | The Pattern Pages 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
MEET & GREET Pattern printing 30 Meet the maker 18 troubleshooting! Tommie Hernandez from Sirena Patterns Eco sewing notions 21 Julie Bonnar shares her top tips for getting digital patterns printed out right! Be kind with sewing notions that Who’s who 40 have a conscious! Pattern Collaboration 38 We take a look at pattern designers Sew the look 33 Oxford Bags Trouser from The from Canada Great British Sewing Bee Free for thepatternpages.com subscribers Dresses that have summer all sewn up! Sew Your Style 2022 60 Meet the winners! The edit 62 African Fabrics 50 – Holiday essentials It’s a family affair 64 His and her essentials that will fit in one Embrace the big, bold and beautiful prints Some of our favourite family-run bag for getting away this summer! of Africa in your next sewing project pattern companies! 60 min make 53 LEARN TO SEW Protect your sunglasses with this cute STYLISH SEWING little zipped pouch! Developing your own 14 Sew with linen 56 surface patterns Sew the look 10 Billowy blouses that speak volumes! Coralie Grillet shares how to create a There’s nothing more sophisticated than a hand-drawn square pattern repeat garment made with love from linen, learn all about sewing with it here!! 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 5
easy to sew and easy to wear www.readytosew.f r 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 Get 15% off with code WELCOME
REGULARS ON OUR RADAR Our friends over at Sew Over It have just announced The Big Sew Off where they’ll be sewing for 24 hours non-stop Things we thought you might like to know…. this May to raise money for mental health charity MIND. The Big Sew Off takes place on Thursday 12th May 2022 during Mental Health Awareness Week. It will start at 10am on Thursday and end at 10am on Friday 13th May 2022. Founder Lisa Comfort and the team will be sewing for 24 hours from a sewing hub in London donated by Workspace. Other sewing businesses, personalities and sewing Instagrammers will be joining the sewathon in the capital or from their own hubs around the UK. “The last couple of years have been really tough on everyone’s mental health, and sewing has been a big help in getting through the pandemic. We’re excited to put our sewing skills to good use for a great cause and we hope you’ll join us in The Big Sew Off in May!” says Lisa Comfort, founder of Sew Over It They are also asking sewists to join in the fun by sewing from home on the day. You could get a group of friends together and create your own sewing hub! You don’t have to sew for the whole 24 hours, you could aim to make just one garment, sell what you make and send the proceeds in. And if you are up for the 24-hour challenge, ask friends and family to sponsor you. If you like to support by sponsoring Sew Over It to sew for 24 hours then you can donate by donating to The Big Sew Off JustGiving page. Sponsoring the team will help keep them going in the small hours of the night! ADD A LITTLcEross-stitch This kit is a collaboration between Sew House 7 and Junebug and Darlin. Use this kit and pattern to stitch onto to your latest make. The instructions walk you through how to stitch onto your garment after it’s already been sewn up, or enjoy some added stitching options on your next garment before completion. This counted cross-stitch pattern for front of garment as well as a bonus sleeve stitching detail and contains 14-count waste canvas, two needles (one for lightweight linens and one for medium weight cottons) and 3 skeins of DMC embroidery floss (Ecru, 783 gold, 844 grey) plus an in instruction booklet in PDF format featuring hand-drawn directions for every step. This is a beginner-friendly pattern can be purchased as a physical and digital product from www.sewhouse7.com 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 7
REGULARS IN PRINT IN THE UK Ploen Patterns are now in print version and available from sewing retailers in the UK. This Finnish pattern company’s main theme is sustainability and their vision is to create fun patterns that we all need in our closets, so we don’t have to buy fast fashion! The patterns in print include the Vera Dress & Top, Idun Dress, Tyra Trousers and Eira Top. To find your nearest stockist of Ploen Patterns, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/ploen FOLLOW GBSB IS BACK! THE BEE WITH US! Sara Pascoe welcomed 12 of Britain’s most talented home sewers into the famous Great British Sewing Bee sewing room, which is held in a historic woollen mill on the outskirts of Leeds. Week One saw the judges Patrick Grant and Esme Young ask the contestants to create a capsule wardrobe consisting of three items — wool mini skirt, lockdown loungewear and a made-to-measure wrap dress. To follow all the drama and sewing, read our blog every Thursday afternoon on the previous nights show over at www.thepatternpages.com and click on the Sewing Bee menu. machineTHE NEXT BIG THING IN technology Janome America and Janome Australia have just launched the brand spanking new Janome Continental M17 sewing and embroidery combination machine with the largest embroidery hoop on the market and the first ever dual screen controls! It’s been nine years since the release of the Memory Craft 15000, and its successor is the Continental M17, a top-of-the-line combo machine offers the highest levels of functionality and quality while retaining all the traditional usability of Janome’s sewing machines as well as adding challenging new features. We eagerly await to see when it will be available from Janome in the UK… hopefully it won’t be too long so watch this space! To take a sneak peek at this amazing machine visit www7.janome.co.jp/global 8 | The Pattern Pages 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
THE CARPE DIEM DRESS & TUNIC Fit for Art’s newest core pattern the Carpe Diem Dress & Tunic features simple design lines, easy construction, and 3 views with multiple style options. Rely on Fit for Art’s free download Common Fitting Adjustments for the Carpe Diem and video tutorials to ensure a great fitting dress and tunic pattern! Look for inspiration in the Carpe Diem Photo Gallery and blog archive to sew yourself dresses and tunics for every occasion and season. Print and digital format in sizes XS-3XL www.fitforartpatterns.com9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 ThePatternPages | 9
STYLISH SEWING NOD TO Frida Blouse, Sew Over It THE ‘70S Sizes 6-30 (UK PDF), £13.00 www.sewoverit.com Inspired by the peasant style blouses and dresses worn by Frida Kahlo, it suits all shapes and ages. Make this blouse in a fun patterned fabric or use a plain one to highlight the pleat details and add a statement necklace for a smarter look. You can also have fun customising with embroidery, ribbon or piping around the yoke to make a peasant style blouse that’s truly unique! Wear it with sandals or pumps in the summer or with tights and boots in the autumn. BILLOWY BLOUSES THAT SPEAK VOLUMES Think peasant and poet’s styling, balloon and puff sleeves, frills and flounces and neckties for your next blouse pattern! 10 | The Pattern Pages 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
STYLISH SEWING CAUGHT ON CAMERA! This beautiful pull-on blouse with front tie and pleat detail picks up on the last couple of season’s trend for tie neck blouses, which has grown partly from the Zoom culture – where the top half of an outfit takes centre stage so needs to be more flamboyant! You will be reaching for this easy to wear pattern when you need something just a little bit special! Wear this pull- on blouse tucked in or left out loose with a stylish skirt or trousers for the office. It works well with a tailored jacket or coat too. The side seam on the dress is slightly tapered at the bottom to create a subtle cocoon shape, which will look amazing with heels or flat shoes. Tie Blouse, The Maker’s Atelier Sizes 4-22 (UK), £12.50 www.themakersatelier.com SUMMER STYLE! Oversized sleeves and generous gathers create this romantic blouse (and dress). The raglan sleeves, binding at the neckline, and narrow elastic at the end of the sleeves add to its summery vibes. Moira Blouse, Wardrobe By Me Size 0-24 (US) and 30-54 (EU), €20 www.wardrobebyme.com 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 11
STYLISH SEWING I’M ON THE Wilder Gown Blouse, Friday Pattern Co, Size XS-XL (32-60in chest), $14, EASY TO COVER www.fridaypatterncompany.com MAKE & WEAR The Wilder Gown pattern is known for its stunning dress but did you know that you can use the pattern to make a beautiful blouse too? This raglan sleeve top is pulled in and tied at the neckline. And can be made with short or long sleeves. When it’s hot, this blouse is as comfortable as it is cute. The modular design lends itself well to customising too. SPTHAHOGEEPPSMAWTETEOEBRNSNITE ADD THE WOW FACTOR This eye-catching woven wrap top has dramatic, ruffled sleeves, and a statement big bow which ties at the hip. The stunning sleeves have simple origami folds that give them their body, and elasticated sleeve-hems to make the sewing easy. While it looks very impressive, this sewing pattern is remarkably forgiving to sew. 12 | The Pattern Pages Screwdriver Top, Our Lady of Leisure, Sizes A-G, 6-16 (UK & AUS), 2-14 (US), £9.00 www.thepatternpages.com/thepatternboutique 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
STYLISH SEWING FABULOUS FRILLS This simple tunic top has bust darts for shaping, but remains a relaxed and comfortable fit for this time of the year. The set-in sleeves end in a soft, deep frill and echo a similar frill at the hem. Frills of course are optional depending on your mood. This wardrobe staple acts as a backdrop for you to show off some of your favourite accessories. Celia Top, Sew Me Something Sizes 8-22, £10 www.sewmesomething.co.uk ROMANTIC FEEL We still love a colder shoulder top, don’t you? This relaxed but chic blouse has lots of lovely options including this flowy top with bust dart for easy adjustment, button loop opening at the back and optional ruffles. Create the perfect summer top and look and feel fabulous wearing it. Vera Top, Ploen Patterns, Sizes 32-50 (EU), £17.50 To find the nearest UK stockist, www.hantexonline.co.uk/ploen HOW TO WEAR THIS BLOUSE STYLE: Keep the bottom half of your outfit minimal with a pair of high- Voluminous blouses have a romantic feel and look waisted trousers for smart occasions or a plain leggings or skirt wonderful in the pastel colours trending at the moment but if baby pink isn’t for you then for more for casual days. neutral colours that keep styling sophisticated! Light-weight fabrics will give you a floaty romantic feel for casual styling like rayon and viscose while a crisper fabrics like cotton and linen will be more elegant feel that’s great for the office! 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 13
LEARN TO SEW CORALIE GRILLET DEVELOPING YOUR OWN SURFACE PATTERN Coralie Grillet shares how to create a hand-drawn square repeat pattern Much to the delight of every creative, the fabric design scene has seen major changes in the last decade. With the rise of print-on-demand companies such as Spoonflower, Prinfab and Contrado, ordering a unique fabric printed with your own designs has never been so easy. In this article, you’ll learn how to easily create a hand-drawn square pattern repeat that can be used to print on just about anything. The square you’ll create will be the basis for your design – a motif that can be endlessly repeated to cover any surface with your creation. So why not make your next sewing project a 100% me-made original by designing and printing your very own fabric? Let get started! 14 | The Pattern Pages 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
LEARN TO SEW 1. START TO DRAW YOUR MOTIF 2. CUTTING THE SQUARE Once your square is ready, start by drawing your motif in This next step will probably be the most stressful of the the centre. For this technique to work, you need to leave whole process: cutting your big square into four equal all the edges free of any design so concentrate on only parts. But don’t worry, it might look intimidating but it’s drawing in the centre for now. very easy to do. Start by lightly labelling the four quarters so that you don’t mix them up once they are cut. The square at the top left corner is #1, the top right one is #2, the bottom left is 3 and the bottom right is #4. After taking a deep breath, cut down the halfway marks horizontally and vertically to divide your big square into four smaller ones. 3. RE-ARRANGING THE PIECES 4. COMPLETING THE PATTERN Next comes the magic part! Shuffle the pieces to create a Fill the blank space in the middle created in the previous new big square. Before cutting your four-quarter squares step with your motif to complete the square. were in this order 1-2-3-4. Rearrange them now in this order: 4-3-2-1. Then carefully tape the squares together on the back. Once it’s done, you’ll have created a new big square with your previously drawn motifs around the edges and a new blank space in the center for you to fill. 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 15
LEARN TO SEW DIGITALIZE YOUR CREATION Your square repeat is now done and all you need to do is digitalize it! Scan in high quality (at least 300dpi.). Then using your preferred image editing software (for this example Photoshop is used), adjust the contrast and make the necessary colour corrections. Next, using the clone stamp tool, neaten the edges so you don’t see the cutting line in the center anymore. Use an offset filter (Filter—>Other—>Offset) and type in half of your canvas’ size. This recreates the very first square you’ve started with and allows you to finish correcting the edges using the clone stamp tool. Once you’re happy with the result, save the square repeat in the highest quality possible. PRINT YOUR FABRIC Congratulations! Now that your square repeat is done, you can upload it onto any on-demand printing fabric website and order yourself some fabulous, unique fabric for your next project. 16 | The Pattern Pages MEET THE DESIGNER Coralie Grillet is a Swiss designer, stylist and illustrator behind the indie pattern label Wearologie. Recently, she’s been focusing more on illustrating and has been having great fun creating surface pattern designs for fabrics to use for her latest sewing projects. You can follow her creative adventures on www.coraliegrillet.com and find out more about her sewing patterns on www.wearologie.com 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
c I�NA BY TOMMIE HERNANDEZ New extended siaes! get 20% off with discount code TPP2022 fill r HIJXS-XXL www.si renapatterns.corn 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
MEET & GREET meet the maker with TOMMIE HERNANDEZ We catch up with the fabulous Tommie Hernandez from Sirena Patterns Sirena Patterns | www.sirenapatterns.com | sirenapattterns MEET TOMMIE & HER STORY I was born and raised on a very small but bachelor’s in architecture but knew that this dresses, but times had changed. Since my beautiful island in the Caribbean. Puerto wasn’t my passion. I then moved to New home town is located right next to the Rico is a commonwealth of the United York City and studied fashion design at the most beautiful beaches, the college girls States, and our main language is Spanish. Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.) and just wanted swimwear and casual wear I started sewing when I was eight years interned with Irish fashion designer Daryl K. so my business specialised in swimwear old and enjoyed making outfits for and my When I returned to Puerto Rico in 1999, and sold them to boutiques and surf friends and I during the summers. After I established a boutique atelier with the shops throughout the Island for more graduating from high school, I studied a dream of making custom formal and bridal than 17 years. 18 | The Pattern Pages 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
MEET & GREET SIRENA PATTERNS WAS BORN have children’s patterns available too! best way to unwind. Cooking for them is A few years ago, I decided to move to San THE PATTERN PROCESS something I really enjoy, and having walks Juan, Puerto Rico’s Capital. I closed my in Old San Juan is a great way to spend the shop on the west coast and started looking We try to create patterns by collection weekend with them. for a different way to help not just people based on our customer’s requests. But it’s from my island, but people from all over not easy. In order to achieve a good fit in CUSTOMERS COME FIRST the world. all sizes, we need to make multiple samples, We have customers from more than 50 I already had the know-how to design make the appropriate changes and repeat countries! Most of them are women (98%) clothing and swimwear and lots of people the process until the pattern works great in that are looking for a creative outlet or want kept asking me to teach them how to all the sizes included. to start a fashion business. The main ages make their own swimwear. That’s how The written instructions also take time range from 25-55 years old, and I love to Sirena Patterns started! The patterns work to write as we want them to be clear but see them reach their goals. as a shortcut for people that want to make without over explaining. The instructions We have success stories of students that their own garments but they can skip the are in both English and Spanish. two years ago knew nothing about sewing, patternmaking and go straight to sewing. started taking our online courses and now ADDING LINGERIE TO THE BRAND have a profitable fashion business selling EXPANDING THE SIRENA EMPIRE For me, making basic lingerie is much easier their makes. Others have told us they were In the beginning, all patterns were swimwear than making swimwear! I like the fact that suffering from depression and have found in patterns. I decided to start in that niche you can make a simple pattern like our sewing, a reason to wake up every morning since there were less swimwear patterns Daisy Panty in less than an hour. I enjoy the and feel motivated and feel useful! available and it was my expertise. I then large amount of options in lingerie – you had requests from students on my online can combine cotton knit, mesh, lace, etc. TOMMIES GO-TO SEWING ADVICE fashion academy for other types of patterns. and turn a basic pattern into a unique piece. The more you make mistakes, the more Now, we have active-wear, accessories SO...HOW DOES A DESIGNER you learn! If you are too afraid to sew more like bags, lunch bags, stuffed animals and SWITCH OFF FROM SEWING... complicated garments, you’ll never improve menswear and by the end of this year, we’ll your sewing skills. Accept the challenge, For me, spending time with my family is the what’s the worst that can happen? 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 19
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Organic Threadbe kindLEARNTOSEW Recycled Buttons 5 sewing notions that Eco Packaging have a conscious! Recycled Scissors Recycled Thread Organic Thread - Scanfil, Hantex Online www.hantexonline.co.uk/scanfi | Recycled Thread - Sew-all Thread rPET - Good Fabric, www.goodfabric.co.uk | Recycled Scissors - Fiskars, www.fiskars.com/en-gb | Recycled Coffee Grounds Buttons - Textile Garden, www.textilegarden.com | Eco-packaging - Hemline Gold, www.needlecraftstore.co.uk 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 21
REGULARS HOTfabrics Sew for summer with the coolest of fabrics! GORGEOUS GAUZE Double Gauze is such a popular choice of fabric for summer garments. This 100% cotton double gauze will add texture with its subtle Dobby pattern. There is a wide range of colours from neutrals (white, black, grey) to pastels (soft green and dusky pink) and bright and warm (orange, mustard and wine). This fabric is ideal for tops, shirts and dresses. To find your nearest UK stockist, and view more of the current collections from Modelo, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/modelo FRENCH TERRY 22 | The Pattern Pages This amazing quality French terry will take centre stage with its stunning floral poppy design that’s perfect for all ages. These beautiful fabrics are Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified and an absolute must-have for every spring/summer wardrobe! There are three colours to choose from including mustard, blue and grey. Inspired by Graziela’s Flower-Designs from the 70s. The combination of pattern and colour, modern and retro definitely makes this sweatshirt fabric stand out! This fabric is also easy to sew with and super comfortable to wear. To view this range, visit www.bygraziela-fabrics.co.uk 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
REGULARS CHALLIS LAWN Challis is a favourite fabric for summer as it has a smooth hand that’s cool to the touch, and is very drapey for floaty dresses. We love these beautiful viscose challis lawn tropical digital prints on offer from Lady McElroy. They certainly pack a punch when it comes to colour! To find more of these wonderful digital prints, visit www.ladymcelroy.co.uk Marcia Spencer - @keechiibstyle SEERSUCKER This seersucker fabric has a traditional check design. It’s made up of viscose and polyester with a little elastane to give it a little stretch and comes in six colourways tan, pink, yellow, black, grey and navy. This fabric would be ideal for a gorgeous summer dress or top! To view the Tabor collection and more from Modelo Fabrics, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/modelo DREAMY COLOURS The Pattern Pages | 23 Fall into a dreamlike state with the new Periwinkle collection for AGF Studio. Light and airy with every brushstroke, the colour palette features soft pinks, blues, and lavenders that will make you look back on happy memories. Make your favourite pattern in this fabric and get ready for lazy days in the sun! To find this new collection and others from Art Gallery Fabrics, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/agf-fabrics 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
Details modelo fabrics Summer Rayon Soft, drapable and available in a variety of fashionable designs and colour-ways visit www.modelofabrics.co.uk/rayon 24 | The Pattern Pages Find the right fabric for your next project … 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
REGULARS RAYON Modelo Fabrics has an ethos of sustainability and their fabrics will stand the test of time, looking better for longer and rewarding your sewing time with a great finished garment. Its rayon fabrics are soft and light making them perfect for lighter weight garments. Jersey knits There’s nothing quite like a wonderful print on a lightweight fabric for warmer weather. We love the new Santa Anna Rayon Jersey from Modelo; it has some beautiful summery prints. This fabric has all the benefits of jersey but also the soft, light properties of rayon, which make it a comfortable fabric to wear. This high quality jersey knit is ideal for summer tops and dresses. RAYON VISCOSE The Mistral collection of rayon from Modelo is made from 100% viscose and has new summery designs that combine an eclectic mix of seashore, speckles, shards and fun animal prints. To see more from the Santa Anna Rayon Jersey and Mistral Viscose rayon collections from Modelo, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/modelo 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 25
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Whitcomb Top, Sew Love Patterns R E G U L A R SSizes A-H, £10 www.sewlovepatterns.com This beginner-friendly make that can be sewn in either woven or knit fabric! Sew as a T-shirt, sweatshirt or blouse and dress up or down, that’s what makes this pattern so versatile! Or why not make the woven/knit combo using woven fabrics for the bodice, sleeve and neck facing, and knit fabrics for the cuffs and waistband. WEAR INDOORS AND OUT! KEEP IT BUTTONED!Véronik Robe, Closet Core Patterns Sizes 0-20 and 14-32 (PDF), £13.25 MAKE IN WOVEN OR KNITwww.closetcorepatterns.com Find a UK stockist at This boob-friendly www.hantexonline.co.uk/cashmerette Vernon Shirt, Cashmerette take on the essential Sizes 0-16 and 12-32, £20 button-up shirt This pattern comes in two lengths and a choice between a traditional collar band can be sewn with and notched collar for architectural interest. Sew with an elbow length with a traditional collar, a facing or wrist length with folded hem and of course, roomy slanted pockets. collar stand and full This versatile robe can be worn as a dressing gown or lightweight jacket sleeves with narrow depending on what fabric you choose! cuffs or a fashion- forward version with a dramatic collar, covered button placket, and lantern sleeves with wide cuffs. From flannel work shirts to posh statement tops, this shirt pattern can do it all! PApTreTviEewRN Our favourite new patterns hot off the press! 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 27
REGULARS SPTHAHOGEEPPSMAWTETEOEBRNSNITE Loving this dress – it’s one of the latest pattern from the Balance collection from Named. It has two lovely options – an elastic waist dress and a crop top. The pattern has a unique layered, interlaced wrap bodice with ties. Both options are sleeveless and have a scoop neck, keyhole detail and are also maternity and breastfeeding friendly. Betty Wrap Dress and Top, Sinclair Patterns Sizes 0-30 (XXS-$XL), $9.99 (AUD) www.sinclairpatterns.com FEMININE FAUX WRAP ALL-SEASON JACKET MATERNITY-FRIENDLY Sisko Dress & Top, Named We love this simple, Sizes 4-28 (UK), 0-24 (US) unlined jacket with and 32-56 (EU), £14 grown-on sleeves www.thepatternpages.com/thepatternboutique from Sew Different’s Riva Jacket, Sew Different new Layer Up Sizes 8-26, £18.50 (printed) collection. It has a www.sewdifferent.co.uk wide cut-off neck trim that has a This beautiful knit dress is fitted in all the Japanese look, and right places and the bodice can be sewn large patch pockets. with pleated layers for fuller busts. This Make in a heavy classic and feminine faux wrap dress fabric like cotton, has three quarters, elbow, short sleeves linen, raw silk, or sleeveless for all seasons. Make knee velvet, denim, satin length dress or as a hip length blouse, as a winter warmer, there’s lots of options to choose from! or in a sumptuous satin as loungewear. It’s great to throw on over the top for that extra layer of warmth. 28 | The Pattern Pages 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
A stylish shirt is a staple for your summer wardrobe Meet The Sille Shirt Front buttons, gathers at neckline, dropped shoulders, dolman sleeve, curved hem 9a3w47w04w5.-w5cafbr-d4frao3b-9e1b44y-m8a7ef.fc2eodmadd8 The Pattern Pages | 29
LEARN TO SEW PATTERN PRINTING TROUBLESHOOTING Over the last few years, PDF sewing patterns have become a great alternative for sewers but have you ever had difficulty printing it out? Our Editor shares her top tips for getting it right! PAT T E R N S I Z E S When you purchase a digital pattern, you will be sent a folder that includes the instructions, an A4 and most of the time an A0 pattern (check the individual pattern companies) A4 and US letter are the most common formats. US letter is used in the USA and A4 is used everywhere else. US letter pages are slight wider and measure 21.59cm x 27.94cm (8½in x 11in) while A4 pages are 21cm x 29.7cm (8.3in x 11.7in). These two formats, you can print at home and assemble the sheets together to form the pattern. Another format you’ll see universally is the A0 format. It’s the biggest printing format available and needs a professional printer or online copy shop. This option is great for those who don’t like sticking their patterns together! NEW to the sewing pattern scene is projector file patterns, but this is a topic we will leave for another issue! Stay tuned. 30 | The Pattern Pages 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
LEARN TO SEW PDF PATTERN TROUBLE-SHOOTING MADE EASY! How do I print out one pattern size The pattern isn’t printing out the from a layered pattern? proper size? More and more patternmakers are Check that you’re opening and now offering this timesaving option. printing the file with Adobe Reader? When a pattern is layered, each size is Some alternative PDF readers don’t separate and has its own layer that can handle printing to scale that well. be printed out individually. This feature tends to only work with Adobe Reader To overcome this problem - in the on a laptop or desktop computer. The print settings box, make sure that layers function doesn’t work on phone, the file is set to print at ‘actual size’ iPad and tablet versions of Adobe. or the ‘scale is 100%’ and NOT ‘scale to fit’! Choose the auto portrait/ TIP: Window users may find that some landscape rather than the portrait printers also have trouble printing one. You’d think that this wouldn’t ‘non-standard fonts from Adobe. This make much of a difference but it can cause pages to partially print out cuts off the left and upper margins! or have jagged lines. If this happens to Make sure you have printed the you – try printing as an image under correct format; if you select A0 it the advanced setting with print setting will print out very small! set to colour (not grayscale). TIP: Always print the ‘TEST’ square How do I print larger format page first to make sure it’s the sewing patterns? correct size. This is usually on the This has become much easier to first page. This is really important to do and you can now do this online do as the wrong scale can mean without leaving the house! All you your garment won’t fit you like it need to do is upload the A0 pattern was designed to do! to the print website. An advantage is that the pattern is printed on superior Hopefully, these tips and tricks help paper. Printer charges vary depending you to master printing out your pdf on paper stock, whether it’s printed in colour and how pages you need to patterns with ease! print the pattern. Prices start as little as £1.25 per sheet. 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 31
Pattern Finder www.hantex.co.uk/patternfinder Details Find the perfect pattern for your next project … search by brand, garment type, fabric type, skill level or even season Pat3t2er|nThFeiPnatdterenrPages Use9tahe3fi4n7d0a4s5to-c5kcisftbfa-4cifliaty3t-o9s1up4p4o-r8t iand7effp2eenddeandt rde8tailers and designers
Marcel Dress and Tank, Chalk and Notch Patterns, Sizes 0-30 with two bust cup options, £20 (printed) To find a UK stockist near to you, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk/chalk-and-notch TOP TIERS The Marcel is a woven dress that is fitted through the high bust and loose through the bust, waist and hips. Make the dress as a midi or mini length or a tank top that ends at the high hip. Not sure on tiered dresses then this one could be for you as the tiers are limited to side panels. SUMMER DRESSING Dresses that have summer all sewn up! 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 33
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IN THE SWING OF IT! This pattern was designed in collaboration with Cindy from @ledressingdecindy. We love this loose-fitting dress but you can wear it with a belt for a more feminine silhouette. There are four different sleeve finishes to choose from sleeveless, with and without ruffle and a short sleeve with double gather bands. The dress has a V-neckline and in-seam pockets to finish! I AM Cinderella, I AM Patterns, Sizes 34-52, €8.25 www.iampatterns.fr/en COMFORT ZONE! SPTHAHOGEEPPSMAWTETEOEBRNSNITE This knit dress is so easy to sew! Teamed up with a pair of sandals, it’s ideal for the office or paired with sneakers is perfect for the weekend! It has a relaxed fit, folded sleeve hem, boat- neck neckline and two sleeve length options. You’ll want to make this comfortable and stylish pattern in every colour! Lemon Drop Dress, Our Lady of Leisure The Pattern Pages | 35 Sizes A-G, 6-16 (UK & AUS), 2-14 (US), £9 www.thepatternpages.com/thepatternboutique 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
STYLISH SEWING PATSGHHEEOSPPWAMTETEBESORITNNE COOL IN A HALTER A halter-neck sundress is a must and this one has the narrowest of straps, built-in bra, and pockets – what else do you need for the hotter days! The shelf bra includes cup sizes to give you a great fit. This style can be cut on grain or on bias for more drape to the fabric. Enmore Halter Dress + To, Liesl + Co, Sizes 0-202, £15.50 www.thepatternpages.com/thepatternboutique TRÉS CHIC Ooh la la! This 1950s inspired dress features a gathered bust, elastic on- or off-the-shoulder neckline, nipped-in raised waist and flattering full skirt, as well as summery tie-strap option. Wear for a country walk in cottons and prints, or dress up for the Prom in satin – this dress will handle any occasion with savoir-faire. The clever pleated bust both enhances smaller busts and flatters larger ones, with the ruched shoulder detail providing a pleasing balance. French Gypsy Dress, Sew La Di Da Vintage, Sizes 0-18, £11 www.sewladidavintage.com 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd836 | The Pattern Pages
WHERE A PASSION FOR VINTAGE FASHION, SEWING AND CREATING COMBINE Stevie French Gypsy Dress Margo Playsuit The Muse Sewing patterns designed and printed in the UK, fabric shop, haberdashery and sewing school based in Lyme Regis, Dorset 9aw34w7w04.5s-e5cwfbl-a4dfai3d-9a1v4i4n-8taa7gffe2.ecdoadmd8
PLEATED FRONT Oxford bags MEET THIS WIDE- LEGGED PAIR OF TROUSERS FROM THE BOOK THAT ACCOMPANIES THE NEW SERIES OF THE GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE! FREE A wide-legged pair of trousers is such an easy garment to wear and we’re for annual magazine so excited to share author Juliet subscribers of Uzor’s version that she designed thepatternpages.com for The Modern Wardrobe from The Great British Sewing Bee. Oxford bags were a loose-fitting baggy form of trousers favoured by the undergraduates of Oxford University in England from the mid-1920s to around the 1950s and are having a little bit of a resurgence. Juliet has added volume and wearing ease to this pair so they allow freedom of movement, as they’re sewn only across the top to hold them in place. 38 | The Pattern Pages 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
WHAT FABRICS SHOULD I CHOOSE? This pattern is ideal for 150 cm (60 in) wide lightweight-weight fabrics like cotton sateen, linen and cotton blends, viscose twill, rayon, Lawn Batiste or lightweight garbadine. WHO CAN SEW IT? This designed for intermediate sewers. With this pattern, learn how to create knife pleats at the waist to provide a sculpted, tailored look over the tummy with a fly zip and volume over the hips. The sewing pattern comes in sizes 8-22 (UK). Get your copy SPECIAL TECHNIQUE: FLY ZIP 1 A fly zip is similar in construction to a lapped zip – it just has an additional shield stitched on the inside. In women’s trousers, the fly thepatternpages.com fastens right over left, and in men’s trousers it’s left over right. annual magazine subscribers The key components of a fly zip are: Fly facing Subscribers can find their The facing covers the zip from view. In some patterns it’s cut as a separate free copy of the Oxford Bags piece, as in used in this pattern but in others, the facing is an extension of the Trousers within the exclusive centre front and is simply folded back. ‘Subscribers Area’ section. Fly guard Download by 1st July 2022 This double layer of fabric sits between you and the zip and is sewn into the www.thepatternpages.com/ left-hand side of the fly, extending underneath the opening. It stops the zip teeth from catching on your skin when you pull the zip up and down. subscribers-only/ TOP TIP: A bar tack is simply a series of zigzag stitches placed very close 2 together. Set a standard zigzag stitch 2-3mm wide and stitch a short row 1–2 cm long. Backstitch once or twice over the entire row to secure. Unpin the fly guard so that it sits over the zip. Pin the fly guard in position where it wants to sit. From the trouser front – bar tack at the very bottom of the topstitched line, and also at the start of the curve. These stitches will go through all layers – trousers, zip, facing and fly guard. Subscribe FROM THE GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE - THE MODERN To take out a new subscription and get this pattern with Issue 26. WARDROBE Read more about this wonderful book Visit www.thepatternpages.com/ on page 44. We’d like to thank Quadrille shop-subscribe and subscribe for for allowing us to feature this pattern and if you’d like to get hold of a copy of the £26.50 for a whole year. book, it’s available for UK readers can purchase from www.amazon.co.uk 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 39
A-Z who’s who in canada We look at sewing pattern designers from Canada APOSTROPHE APPLE TREE PATTERNS PATTERNS www.apostrophepatterns.com www.appletreesewing.com Jill Bond is a pattern designer based in Toronto whose Eastlyn Appleton is a pattern drafter and sewist, who designs background in mechanical engineering has helped her expand children’s patterns and shares sewing tutorials and pattern her patterns to fit every shape and size. drafting tips. CLOSET CORE DG PATTERNS PATTERNS www.closetcorepatterns.com www.dgpatterns.com Proudly based in Montreal in Quebec, Heather Lou started Daniela Paz Gutierrez-Diaz started her sewing blog, On the this pattern brand in 2013 to focus on providing sewists with Cutting Floor which became a full-time business creating three patterns for women and resources they can trust. Patterns are meticulously drafted in sizes 0-32, rigorously tested, and most to four digital patterns for women every month. importantly, fun and intuitive to use! ELEGANCE & EMERALD ERIN ELEPHANTS www.eleganceandelephants.com www.emeralderin.com Heidi Kettner sews and designs children’s clothing and hopes to Erin Meiklejohn runs a one-stop place for all things bra and inspire others to enjoy the passion she has for the handmade. swimwear sewing from Trenton in Ontario. She design patterns, sell all the supplies and share lots of fun sewing! 40 | The Pattern Pages 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
EMMALINE BAGS York Pinafore from Helen’s Closet www.emmalinebags.com Janelle MacKay is a bag pattern designer, author, and bag making instructor located in Spruce Grove, Alberta, and ships around the world! ENSEMBLE PATTERNS www.ensemblepatterns.com The patterns come with illustrated step by step instructions, perfect for a beginner. The patterns are designed for advanced beginner level and a really quick sew with patterns for women to create a cohesive look. FRESH PRESS PATTERNS www.freshpresspatterns.com Joanna Carpenter trained in fashion design, pattern development and industrial sewing and tailoring techniques. This pattern label is all about wardrobe building. With every season, she builds on the previous pieces to grow your wardrobe with easy industry sewing techniques. GOOBER PEA DESIGNS www.gooberpeadesigns.com Adrienne Currie runs this children’s pdf sewing pattern company after struggling to find patterns for her children. HEIDI & FINN www.heidiandfinn.etsy.com Modern, current and fun pdf sewing patterns for toys and children. HELEN’S CLOSET www.helensclosetpatterns.com Helen Wilkinson is the founder of this pattern brand and lives in Courtenay, BC. She has a passion about creating thoughtful, well-designed and timeless sewing patterns. IN-HOUSE PATTERNS www.inhousepatterns.com This pattern label is run by Alexandra Morgan who wanted to help the home sewer about pattern making and fitting for more mature figures. Sorting through the fitting challenges led to the launch In-House Patterns Studio and online courses that teach experienced sewers how to make and adjust patterns to fit them. 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 41
Claudia Bikinis from Jalie PatternsJALIE PATTERNS 42 | The Pattern Pages www.jalie.com Based in Quebec, Jalie has more than 200 designs with the largest size range per pattern in the industry! Jeanne and Émilie together bring sewers practical patterns for the whole family. Everything is done in-house, from pattern design and prototyping to photo shoots and packaging! MUNA & BROAD www.munaandbroad.com Leila Kelleher (is an Aussie living in Canada) and she teamed up with Jess in 2019 to create this one-of-a-kind pattern label to make modern, beginner friendly sewing patterns for plus-size sewists. OHHH LULU www.ohhhlululingerie.com Sarah Norwood is the owner and designer behind this lingerie and sewing pattern company. Her patterns are best suited for intermediate level seamstresses who are familiar with applying elastic, working with knits and bias cut fabrics. PETITE PLUS PATTERNS www.petitepluspatterns.com Petite women have made do for so long with tugging, gaping, baggy, out of proportion clothes. This pattern label is designed by Kathleen Chetham especially for the smaller-framed, full- figured woman with narrower shoulders, a full cup bust, rounded tummy, and delicious full curves. The patterns are timeless basics with clean lines that you can dress up or down with fabric and accessories! PIN UP GIRLS PATTERNS www.braandcorsetsupplies.com Pin-Up Girls collection is a special series of patterns, carefully designed and widely tested by expert Beverly V. Johnson – the Fairy Bra Mother! POLLYWOGGLES www.pollywoggles.ca Heidi Elizabeth creates patterns with full step-by-step instructions showing you how to create the designs from fabric to finish. SEWAHOLIC PATTERNS www.sewaholic.net Tasia St. Germaine is based in Vancouver and publishes classic sewing patterns, focusing on women with a small waist-to-hip ratio – or ‘pear’ shapes design for women with a large waist- to-hip ratio, and focus on making classic, feminine, practical clothing designs. 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
SOFIONA DESIGNS Sofia Dress & Top from Victory Patterns www.sofionadesigns.ca Sherri and Trish create pdf patterns for women and girls and specialising in clean finishes and professional results for your handmade garments. SOCIALITE PATTERNS www.socialitepatterns.com Chelsea Bootsman is a pattern drafter who makes sewing patterns for women in sizes XXS-7XL. Sew with the patterns exactly as they are or modify them and of course, mix and match to your hearts content, because they say you are the designer and they only provide you with the template to your creativity! Printable and Projector files are available. STRAIGHT STITCH DESIGNS www.straightstitchdesigns.com Kimberly Payne is the owner, designer, teacher and all-round one woman show at Straight Stitch Designs. STUDIO CALICOT www.studiocalicot.com Studio Calicot is a small company based in Montreal creating tutorials and sewing patterns to help you achieve that unique, contemporary and practical wardrobe. Whether you are looking for a basic that goes with everything or a statement piece to elevate an outfit, you will find them among our selection which is constantly growing. In short, its patterns are a blank canvas waiting for your signature! THREAD THEORY DESIGNS www.threadtheory.ca Thread Theory Designs is an online sewing pattern shop based on Vancouver Island, B.C owned by Meagan and Matt Meredith. This pattern company creates workwear and menswear that strives to create classic designs with a modern fit. VICTORY PATTERNS The Pattern Pages | 43 www.victorypatterns.com Run by the lovely designer Kristiann Boos who creates modern sewing patterns for women who love to sew. Learn to craft a beautiful, one-of-a kind wardrobe that combines vintage vibes with modern and minimal elements to create unique, thoughtful, and refined pieces that will elevate your style. 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
REGULARS Get your sewing mojo back on books with a good book! GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE: THE MODERN WARDROBE By Juliet Uzor The popular BBC One series The Great British Sewing Bee has returned for an eighth series and once again bring the joy of sewing into our living rooms! This book accompanies this new series, and covers everything you need to build garments that are easy to make, wear and combine, and includes many of the star garments from the show. WE THINK Juliet Uzor has a lovely way of explaining in layman’s terms on how to adjust patterns. This book is well laid out so you can dip in and out while sewing. WHERE TO BUY Published by Quadrille, this book is priced at £22.14 and available for UK readers from www.amazon.co.uk SEW VERY EASY PATTERNLESS SEWING By Laura Cole Sew-celebrity and the YouTube star behind ‘Sew Very Easy’ videos, Laura Coia returns with 23 projects, now available as printed, step- by-step instructions for the first time. Easy to find icons help identify each of the projects to sew with pre-cuts, fabric scraps, reclaimed fabrics, and more. Stitch up 23 useful projects like beautiful bags, accessories, and home décor with no pattern pieces. WE THINK This is a wonderful book if you love making accessories and are looking for ideas to use up smaller pieces of fabric to make beautiful bags, accessories, and home décor! WHERE TO BUY Published by CT Publishing and priced at £10.99 and available for UK readers from www.amazon.co.uk 44 | The Pattern Pages 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
REGULARS ULTIMATE ILLUSTRATED YOU WILL BE ABLE TO SEW LONDON COUTURE AND THE GUIDE TO SEWING CLOTHES YOUR OWN CLOTHES BY MAKING OF A THE END OF THIS BOOK By Joi Mahon FASHION CENTRE Joi Mahon is the founder of Dress By Juliet Uzor Forms Design Studio, owner of The There’s never been a better time to learn By Michelle Jones Sewing Factory Design Studio, but you to sew your own clothes if you want to In the 1930s and 1940s, English fashion may also know her as she is a McCall avoid fast fashion and create sustainable houses, spurred by economic and Licensed Pattern Designer, Craftsy pieces. Take time for yourself to learn a wartime crises, put London on the map as instructor, and creator of Designer new skill, and enjoy creating your own a major fashion city. In this book, Michelle Joi’s Perfect Pattern and Fit Club on tailored wardrobe with this beautiful examines the creation of a London-based Facebook. This comprehensive manual book by your side. Get started with the couture industry during these years, and really does cover everything you need core skills like how to take accurate explores how designer collaboration and to know about sewing clothes! With measurements, use a sewing machine, the construction of specific networks expert instruction on sewing, tailoring, and how to follow a pattern. Once and narratives supported and shaped the making alterations, finishing and you’ve aced these essentials, move on English fashion economy. Haute couture – detailing, as well as essential techniques to 15 stylish and straightforward projects the practice of creative made-to-measure and processes, this book includes basic (all patterns provided in the book). Some womenswear – was widely regarded sloper patterns so you can tailor your of the projects teach you how to up- as inherently French. She shows how pieces for every body type. There are cycle vintage and thrifted clothes to groups of designers banded together in a also details on finishing your garments create gorgeous, one-of-a-kind items. collective effort to shift power within the and instructions on detailing to make As the projects get more complex, international fashion system and focuses you’ll practise and perfect the skills on collaborative activity that supported one-of-a-kind clothes. this form of elite, craft-based fashion you’ve learned! production – from the pre-war efforts of WE THINK the Fashion Group of Great Britain to the WE THINK wartime establishment of the Incorporated This book is jam-packed with information that will help sewers This book will help you build your Society of London Fashion Designers. progress their sewing skills and beyond! sewing skills and like it says by the end of the book, you’ll be able to tackle any WE THINK new sewing project with ease! This is a wonderful account of how London’s couture industry helped define the city’s importance to fashion. If you love sewing vintage, this is a great read! WHERE TO BUY WHERE TO BUY WHERE TO BUY Published by Landauer, this spiral- Published by Ilex Press, an imprint of Published by MIT Press, this hardback bound book is priced at £29.81 and Octopus Publishing Ltd and priced at book is priced at £22.88 and available £19.99 and available for UK readers available for UK readers from for UK readers from www.amazon.co.uk from www.amazon.co.uk www.amazon.co.uk 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 45
out of AFRICA Designed by Kofi Ansah, Ensembles for the wedding of Ashley Shaw-Scott Adjaye and David Adjaye, Ghana, 2014. Photographed in London in 2014 by Robert Fairer 46 | The Pattern Pages 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
SPECIALS Celebrate African Fashion with this new exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum From global fashion weeks to celebrity wearers and the role generation of ground-breaking designers, collectives, stylists and of social media, the Africa Fashion exhibition will celebrate fashion photographers working in Africa today and how the digital and champion the diversity and ingenuity of this continent’s world has accelerated this. fashion scene. On display will be garments, textiles, personal testimonies, photographs, sketches, film, visual arts and Many of the garments on show hail from the archives of iconic catwalk footage that span the mid-20th century to contemporary African designers like Shade Thomas-Fahm, Chris Seydou, Kofi creatives to explore the lively global impact of a fashion scene as Ansah and Alphadi. Alongside these are personal insights from dynamic and varied as this continent itself. influential contemporary African fashion designers, including Imane Ayissi, IAMISIGO, Moshions, Thebe Magugu and Sindiso Across contemporary couture, ready-to-wear, made-to-order Khumalo, as well as highlights from fashion trends of the day, and adornment, the exhibition will show a close-up of the new which are on display for the first time. Models holding hands, Lagos, Nigeria, 2019 by Stephen Tayo. Courtesy Lagos Fashion Week I feel like there are so many facets of what we've been through as a continent, that people don't actually understand. Now, more than ever, African designers are taking charge of their own narrative and telling people authentic stories, not the imagined utopias, says Thebe Magugu, Womenswear Designer 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8 The Pattern Pages | 47
SPECIALS Shade Thomas Fahm in the late 1960s at Simpson Street factory, LagosThe exhibition will be divided into sections: African Cultural Renaissance - Beginning 48 | The Pattern Pages with the African independence/liberation years that sparked a radical political and social reordering across the continent – this section covers fashion, music, the visual arts, protest posters, publications and records, and objects that embody this era of radical change. Politics and Poetics of Cloth - This section considers the importance of cloth in many African countries, and how the making and wearing of these indigenous cloths in the moment of independence became a strategic political act. Wax prints, commemorative cloth, àdìre, kente and bògòlanfini are displayed alongside examples of a rich textile history that includes thousands of techniques from Africa. On display is the commemorative cloth made in the early 1990s following the release of Nelson Mandela, featuring a portrait of the soon-to-be first Black President of South Africa and the words “A better life for all – working together for jobs, peace and freedom”. Vanguard - The first generation of African designers to gain attention throughout the continent and globally can be seen in this section. The rise and impact, creative process and inspirations of Shade Thomas-Fahm, Chris Seydou, Kofi Ansah, Alphadi, Naïma Bennis, and their peers are traced, and brought to life by real stories from those who loved and wore their distinctive designs. Capturing Change - This focuses on the portrait photography of the mid-late 20th century, capturing the mood of nations on the brink of self- rule. The euphoria of decolonisation coincides with the democratisation of photography, which was made possible through cheaper film and lighter weight cameras. Pictures document the modernity, cosmopolitanism and fashion consciousness of individuals, while portraits taken in studios and domestic spaces became affirmations of self-representation – visibly taking pride in being Black and African. The stylish colour portraits of James Barnor sit alongside domestic photography of 10 families gleaned from the V&A’s public call-out in January 2021. Minimalism - The new generation of ground breaking designers, stylists and fashion photographers working in Africa today are celebrated on the mezzanine level of this exhibition including Rwandan fashion house Moshions, known for re-imagining traditional Rwandan forms and cultural motifs into contemporary pieces. Paying tribute to the ceremonial attire worn historically by Rwandan royalty, the menswear look on show references the traditional Umwitero – a sash draped over the shoulder – as well as featuring beadwork and embroidery that takes inspiration from Imigongo aesthetics. 9a347045-5cfDbesig-n4by Cfharis S3eyd-o9u ©1Nab4il Z4orko-t8a7ff2edadd8
‘Chasing Evil’ collection, IAMISIGO, Kenya, Autumn/Winter 2020 Courtesy IAMISIGO. Photo: Maganga Mwagogo SPECIALS Mixology - This section features garments from IAMISIGO’s spring/summer 2019 collection, Gods of the Wilderness, which references ancient West African masquerade costumes. Designer Bubu Ogisi was inspired by traditional West African abstract performance art, and the unique visual identity and traditions of adornment that have been created by different individual cultural groups. Artisanal - This will showcase a blue and white ensemble of DAKALA CLOTH by NKWO, who work with small-scale artisan makers across the African continent that specialise in hand dyeing, weaving, beading and embroidery. NKWO explores ways of using waste materials in her designs while still preserving traditional textile craft skills. DAKALA CLOTH, made from waste fabric is stripped and then sewn back together, using a technique that gives the appearance of traditional woven cloth. Afrotopia - Afrotopia is a look from Thebe Magugu’s Alchemy collection, created in collaboration with Noentla Khumalo – a stylist and traditional healer – and entres on African spirituality and the relationship we have with our ancestors. Alchemy DAKALA CLOTH ensemble, ‘Who Knew’ collection, Abuja, Nigeria, Spring/Summer 2019. Image courtesy Nkwo Onwuka © Kola Oshalusi collection, Thebe Magugu, Johannesburg, South Africa, Autumn/ Winter 2021. Photography: Tatenda Chidora, Styling + Set: Chloe Andrea Welgemoed - Model: Sio Opening 2nd July 2022 The Pattern Pages | 49 To find out more and purchase tickets, visit www.va9ma.a3c4.u7k0/e4x5h-i5bictifobn-s4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
african FABRIC Embrace the big, bold and beautiful prints of Africa in your next sewing project Over the last few years, in both fashion and sewing, we The authentic African fabrics draw their inspiration from are welcoming the use of African fabrics. If you love this continent’s rich heritage and there are many distinctive print and colour – then these 100% cotton fabrics are styles, techniques, dyeing methods, and decorative and as beautiful as they are versatile to make dresses, tops, functional purposes. These fabrics also hold cultural jackets and skirts. significance too. 50 | The Pattern Pages 9a347045-5cfb-4fa3-9144-8a7ff2edadd8
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