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Everyday Stuffed pork cutlet with asparagus slaw SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS CHILLING, RESTING) 60 gm pitted green olives 1 Place olives, sage, currants, pine (4-6 minutes). Place cutlets on a baking 2 tbsp finely chopped sage leaves nuts, garlic and half the lemon oil in tray; bake until just cooked (16-18 minutes). 2 tsp each currants and pine nuts a small food processor and process Rest for 10 minutes before serving. 2 garlic cloves, sliced to a rough paste. Season to taste 4 Meanwhile, for asparagus slaw, and divide into four. Using a small place ingredients in a large bowl 125 ml (½ cup) lemon-infused olive oil paring knife, cut a pocket in the base with remaining lemon-infused olive oil, 4 pork cutlets (250gm each), French- of each cutlet, and using your fingers season to taste and toss to combine. trimmed push olive mixture inside pocket. Top with micro chives. Plain flour, for dusting 2 Season flour with salt and pepper, 5 Serve cutlets scattered with fried then spread onto a large plate. sage leaves and slaw on the side. ➤ 225 gm (3 cups) panko crumbs Place breadcrumbs in a large bowl. 2 eggs In a separate bowl, beat eggs with milk. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 51 Lightly coat cutlets in flour, then dip in 250 ml (1 cup) milk egg mixture and finally in breadcrumbs. Vegetable oil, for shallow-frying Place cutlets on a tray and chill for 15 Fried sage leaves and micro chives, minutes (this helps breadcrumbs stick). to serve 3 Preheat oven to 160°C. Half-fill a large deep frying pan with oil and heat to ASPARAGUS SLAW 160°C (a cube of bread will turn golden in 30 seconds). Fry cutlets, in batches, 1 bunch green asparagus, trimmed, turning occasionally, until lightly golden shaved lengthways on a mandolin 1 green apple, halved, core removed, shaved on a mandolin 1 cup shredded green cabbage 80 ml (⅓ cup) lemon juice

Everyday Steamed Murray cod with whipped lemon myrtle butter SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS RESTING) 250 gm unsalted butter, at room 1 Place a large wok or saucepan (large 4 Meanwhile, in a separate large temperature enough to fit a steamer) three-quarters saucepan of boiling salted water, add full with water over high heat. Bring to beans and edamame, and cook until 4 garlic cloves, crushed the boil then place steamer on top and beans tender but still with a crunch 1½ tbsp dried ground lemon myrtle leave to boil until ready to steam fish. (2 minutes). Drain and place in a large 2 For whipped lemon myrtle butter, bowl with 2 tbsp lemon myrtle butter and (see note) place butter in bowl of an electric mixer shallots; season and toss to combine. ¼ bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked, fitted with a whisk attachment and whisk 5 Place cabbage leaf on a large plate until light and fluffy. Reduce speed to with bean mixture and top with cod. finely chopped low, add garlic, lemon myrtle, parsley Spoon over a little flavoured butter Zest and juice of 1 lemon and lemon zest and juice. Season to and serve scattered with micro red 2 Murray cod pieces (220gm each), taste and stir well to combine. Place vein sorrel and extra butter on the side. skin on, pin-boned (see note) ¼ cup of butter in a small saucepan Note Dried ground lemon myrtle is 2 large cabbage leaves over medium heat, stirring until melted available from specialty food shops and 150 gm baby green beans, trimmed (1-2 minutes). Brush cod liberally with spice shops. If unavailable, substitute 75 gm frozen podded edamame, thawed melted butter and season to taste. lemon pepper or finely grated lemon 1 golden shallot, shaved on a mandolin 3 Place one cabbage leaf in base of zest. Roll any remaining lemon myrtle Micro red vein sorrel, to serve steamer and place cod on top. Top with butter into a log in baking paper. Enclose remaining cabbage leaf, to enclose cod. in foil or in an airtight container and Cover with steamer lid and steam until freeze and use as required. If Murray cooked (18-20 minutes); rest enclosed cod is unavailable, substitute another in steamer for 5 minutes before serving. firm white fish.

Seared tuna with baby spring greens SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS RESTING) 800 gm piece of tuna loin 1 Place a large frying pan over high ¼ cup (loosely packed) dill sprigs, heat. Drizzle tuna loin with extra oil finely chopped and season liberally. Sear in pan, 4 mixed baby heirloom radishes, turning frequently, until outside is trimmed, shaved on a mandolin golden and brown but rare in the 5 baby cucumbers, shaved lengthways, middle (3-5 minutes). Rest on an on a mandolin oven tray until cool enough to handle. 2 baby fennel, trimmed, shaved on Coat tuna with as much extra Dijon a mandolin, fronds reserved mustard as you like then scatter over 50 gm green leaves, such as broad bean dill ensuring entire surface of tuna is leaves or pea tendrils coated. Stand at room temperature Roasted sunflower seeds, to serve and slice when ready to serve. 2 For dressing, place ingredients DRESSING in a small bowl, season to taste and whisk to combine. 100 ml lemon juice 3 Place radish, cucumber, fennel, 1 tbsp Dijon mustard, plus extra for greens and half tuna in a large bowl. coating Drizzle with half of the dressing, season 2 tsp caster sugar to taste and toss to combine. Divide 1 tbsp finely chopped dill salad among plates and top with remaining sliced tuna, scatter with 125 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, sunflower seeds and fennel fronds. plus extra for drizzling Drizzle with a little dressing and serve remaining dressing on the side. ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 53

Everyday Tangelo syrup cakes SERVES 8 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 35 MINS (PLUS COOLING) 140 gm butter, softened 1 For tangelo and orange blossom (20-25 minutes). Cool for 10 minutes 160 gm caster sugar syrup, combine ingredients in a small in moulds, then turn onto a wire rack saucepan and place over high heat. placed over a tray. Finely grated rind from 1 tangelo Bring to the boil and cook until rind is 3 Using a skewer, pierce a few holes 3 eggs translucent (2-3 minutes); remove from in tops of cakes. Drizzle hot cakes with 300 gm self-raising flour, sifted heat and cool to room temperature. syrup while still warm then decorate with 200 ml milk 2 Preheat oven to 170°C. Beat butter, strips of rind and scatter with slivered sugar and rind in an electric mixer pistachios. Serve immediately with Slivered pistachios and clotted until pale and creamy. Add eggs one clotted cream. ● cream, to serve at a time, beating after each addition, then add flour and milk and beat until TANGELO AND ORANGE BLOSSOM SYRUP smooth. Divide among eight buttered and floured 1 cup-capacity metal dariole 200 gm caster sugar moulds. Bake until golden and centre 150 ml freshly squeezed tangelo juice, springs back when lightly pressed strained 1 tbsp orange blossom water 1 tangelo, rind peeled into strips (flesh reserved for another use) We use meat from Devitt Wholesale Meats and seafood from Notaras Fish Markets in the GT Test Kitchen and in all our photo shoots.



Congee This savoury rice porridge is comforting and restorative, and can be avoured with any toppings you like.

Masterclass F or many, congee is the ultimate comfort food and makes for a delicious breakfast on a chilly winter morning. The rice is cooked in such a way that results in a silky, smooth and luxurious texture. It’s also easy to make ahead and reheat before serving with a little extra stock or water. This version is made with chicken stock and flavoured with ginger, garlic, chilli, and shiitake mushrooms, but you can add any ingredients you have on hand. 1 23 RECIPE DOMINIC SMITH. PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN PAUL URIZAR. STYLING SOPHIA YOUNG. Step by step 4 sliced red shallots, and cook, stirring 6 To serve, divide congee among frequently, until garlic and ginger are serving bowls and top with 1 For stock, place 4 spring onions golden (3-4 minutes). shiitake mushrooms, shredded chicken, cut into 10cm lengths, 50gm sliced chilli oil, fried shallots, sliced spring ginger, 6 bruised garlic cloves, 100ml 3 Add 300gm long grain white rice onions and a poached egg. ● fish sauce, 2 tbsp light soy sauce and and stir to coat grains in oil. Begin a 1.5kg chicken (rinsed, patted dry) with to add stock, one ladle at a time, stirring TIPS approximately 3½ litres cold water in regularly until the rice absorbs stock. To make this a vegetarian congee, a large stock pot and bring to the boil. Repeat until rice is tender and all stock omit the chicken from the stock Reduce heat to medium-low and has been added (25-30 minutes); season and substitute 50gm whole dried simmer, partially covered, until rich to taste. Keep hot until ready to serve. shiitake mushrooms, then serve and flavoursome and the chicken is with extra sautéed seasonal very tender (2¾-3 hours). Strain through 4 Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in mushrooms or sliced tofu. If you a colander over a large bowl. Set a frying pan over high heat. Add prefer a thick congee, cook the chicken aside to cool, discard other 250gm small shiitake mushrooms and rice for longer, or for a thinner ingredients and reserve stock. When cook, tossing occasionally, until golden congee add extra stock until you cool enough to handle, shred chicken, (4-5 minutes); season to taste. reach your desired consistency. discarding skin and bones; keep shredded chicken warm. 5 Poach 2 eggs in a saucepan of simmering water over medium- 2 For congee, heat 2 tbsp vegetable high heat until cooked to your liking oil in a large saucepan over (2½-3 minutes for soft-poached). Remove medium heat. Add 40gm julienned with a slotted spoon and drain briefly on ginger, 3 thinly sliced garlic cloves and paper towels. Repeat with 2 more eggs. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 57

COFFEE’S NEXT WAVE Photography WILL HORNER In Australia, coffee isn’t simply a habit but a way of life. After decades of refining, innovating and pushing the craft into ever more esoteric territory, where does the next sensation lie? NADIA BAILEY gets the state of play. Styling LAUREN DE SOUSA 58 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Clockwise from H ere in Australia, we tend to think of right: Liberica ourselves as an egalitarian bunch, with little patience for wonks and wowsers. Green from Ona; El Except, perhaps, when it comes to Manzano Gesha coffee. When it comes to coffee, being a snob is a point of pride. and Killerbee from Single O. Opposite: In Melbourne, where one’s coffee order is held as sacred as one’s football team, show director Gesha and Lauren Winterbottom is preparing for the Bourbon from Ona. Melbourne International Coffee Expo; a place where both industry professionals and enthusiastic Mwanbongolo punters gather to buy beans, sample brews and Bourbon/Kent from discover the latest tech. Single O. This year, she says, automation is poised as the next big thing. As hospitality struggles with staff shortages, innovations such as milk texturisers and varietal and processes in a way that really amplifies fancy telemetry systems mean bad coffee might its characteristics.” become a thing of the past, even if it’s the barista’s first day behind the machine. But she’s quick to He sees the rise of a new generation of emphasise that innovations like automated milk producers in traditional coffee regions like texturisers aren’t intended to replace the skills of Colombia or Guatemala, as well as newer markets a highly trained professional, but rather make it like China, as transforming the industry from the easier for those who are new to the industry. ground up. “These young, millennial producers “These devices allow companies to get new staff know how to navigate the internet and the in and start making those quality coffees straight Western market of specialty coffee, which means away,” she says. they’re trying to produce coffee for that market. And they’re happy to throw tradition out the For Sam Keck, co-founder of Mornington window in an effort to pursue something specialty roaster Commonfolk, it’s less about interesting and pioneering.” gadgets and more about growers. “We’re going to see all of the great developments, but it’s not going This means embracing experimental processing to come from some new fancy piece of machinery, techniques like carbonic maceration and anaerobic or the latest hip café in Melbourne,” he says. fermentation, increased investment in technology, “It’s going to come from a coffee producer who and an awareness that being a small producer can uncovers a new way to grow a really exciting be a selling point in itself. From humble beginnings roasting coffee out of a suburban garage in Canberra, Ona Coffee’s Saša Šesti÷c has become one of the most influential minds in the industry. Lately, his attention has been on the untapped potential of coffee at a species level. “Most of us in specialty coffee drink arabica,” he says, explaining that the arabica species itself has hundreds of different varietals. But there are actually 128 different coffee species, most of which have never been extensively cultivated. One example is Coffea liberica, which grows primarily in Malaysia and Philippines, and has a reputation for producing an average-at-best cup ➤

– but through processing, fermenting, and roasting, Šesti÷c and Keck agree there are huge Šesti÷c has been able to produce something opportunities – and challenges – in producing delicious enough to pass his exacting standards. a home-grown brew. Aside from the obvious issues Coffea racemosa, grown in Mozambique, produces of altitude, the main stumbling block is production a tiny cherry with beans about the size of cost – due to Australia’s robust wages, buying peppercorns that’s naturally low in caffeine, while a 200 gram bag of Australian-grown beans could Coffea eugenioides, from Colombia, produces “the end up costing you up to five times more than sweetest coffee you can imagine”. a specialty roast from overseas. He plans to release a coffee tasting flight, “It gets to the problem of the coffee industry in comprising five coffee species packaged up with general, which is that green coffee is too cheap,” tasting notes, genetic information, and the history explains Keck. “Roasters, especially from a retail of these lesser known breeds. “It will help to make perspective, are putting a huge margin on coffee people more aware that there's these beautiful, and in many cases they need to because overheads different species that we all can discover.” here are high and wages are among the best in the world – which is a great thing about our beautiful Šesti÷c is particularly excited by what the coffee country, but it’s also an indication that we’re not industry can learn from other fields that have long investing enough in the raw material.” harnessed microbiomes – like wine, craft beer and cheese. Through a collaboration with Danish But this hasn’t deterred Šesti÷c . He’s working bioscience company Chr. Hansen, a world leader with a small farm in Cairns to grow liberica, as well in microbial and fermentation technology, he’s as a few other species. While it’s still in the R&D been able to push coffee processing in new stage, he’s hopeful about how Australian-grown directions. coffee will be received. He suggests thinking about Australian-grown coffee like Australian-grown wine “We’ve been using cultures to stabilise certain – something to be judged on its own merits rather things, whether it’s using different strains of yeast than in comparison to anything else. to help encourage particular microbes to grow or using different bacteria to allow a lactic taste to “If we can find our own identity – what dominate more in a cup,” he explains. Australian coffees are about, what their profiles are, what they taste like, what people can expect But with climate change putting pressure on – then we can find the market for it.” ● traditional growing regions, the industry has its eye on new horizons. Could we be drinking Australian- grown coffee in the future?

Clockwise from right: Reservoir FIVE VARIETIES TO TRY NEW WAVE PROCESSES and El Manzano Gesha from TO KNOW Single O. Opposite: BOURBON One of the most Mwanbongolo Bourbon/Kent culturally and genetically ANAEROBIC FERMENTATION from Single O and Pacamara important arabica varieties, A process in which coffee is from Ona. distinguished by its fruity fermented in sealed, temperature- characteristics and bright controlled airtight containers, acidity similar to wine. from anywhere between three hours to 10 days, then dried. BOURBON POINTU Also known as This method results in coffee Laurina, a rare natural mutation of with a rich mouthfeel and unique the Bourbon variety characterised flavour profile, often with a by low caffeine content, delicate fruit-forward aspect. Can be used sweetness and aromas of clove, with whole cherry (natural) or aromatic wood, and honey. pulped beans (washed). GESHA Also known as Geisha, a CARBONIC MACERATION Whole rare varietal renowned for its high coffee cherries are fermented in cup quality and delicate vanilla, an airtight tank with a one-way jasmine, and peach-like aromas. valve to introduce controlled amounts of carbon dioxide. By MIBIRIZI A natural mutation of manipulating temperature and the Bourbon variety favoured duration to promote the growth of for its honeyed, herbal and certain yeasts and bacteria, this creamy butterscotch notes, process tends to result in bright and exceptional citrus acidity. and winey coffees with elevated notes of red fruits. PACAMARA Grown primarily in El Salvador, this variety is noted for LACTIC FERMENTATION A process its complex acidity and wine-like in which ripe cherries with the aromas of berries and citrus, highest possible sugar content are coupled with floral attributes. fermented in carefully monitored airtight containers to promote the development of lactobacillus cultures. This process tends to bring out sweet, fruity and creamy flavours in the cup. Can be used with whole cherry (natural) or pulped beans (washed). G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 61

A NEW It’s Saturday morning and stall holders across Olivia Gates describes the months following Photography MARKUS RAVI DAWNK Queensland are unloading the week’s haul Sammy’s death as crazy, a head-spinning period in an east-to-west ripple of farmers and for everyone – particularly her mother Astrid, artisans bumping in. Marquees are going up, who in the space of 20 minutes bravely relinquished coffee machines are turning on, boxes are being a banking and finance career of several decades, unloaded and early risers keen to fill baskets are leaving Sydney to hop on the next plane to sniffing the goods. Brisbane and help out. For anyone who has ever uttered the words “I really feel for Mum. She lost a sister and “paddock to plate” in earnest, shopping at a gained a business in a few minutes,” says Olivia. local farmers market is a way of life. And the first “She also had to take on care of grandma, to make flap of the butterfly wing belongs to Brisbane sure she was being looked after properly. There gourmand Jan Power. When Power began were just so many competing priorities. It was Brisbane’s first farmers markets more than 30 insane. Then, the pandemic hit.” years ago she also unleashed a torrent of replicas across the state, and the country for that matter. Sisters Olivia and Emily were both stuck in Melbourne during lockdown, leaving Astrid and her The first Jan Powers Farmers Markets husband Rick to organise and attend markets in (JPFM) held back in 1994 was a much different Brisbane and try to communicate with the family affair to the institution it has become today with via Zoom calls. Their other daughter India was in its three locations at Brisbane Powerhouse, Manly Sydney. Digging deep, they successfully pulled the and Mitchelton. business back from the brink of closure. Since then, there has been much hardship “It was tough but it was also great to have and grief for the Powers. In 2019, Jan’s daughter, a distraction during that time and to have former radio personality Sammy Power died something to focus and work on,” recalls Olivia, who now looks after community and suddenly at age 55. communications for JPFM. It wasn’t just the shock of “It was actually exciting to be organising and Sammy’s death that they had to understanding a business, which has been growing process and deal with. Since 2012 alongside you your whole life. Suddenly, we were Sammy had skippered JPFM and in the driver’s seat – and wondering where to acted as the elderly Jan’s full-time from here?” carer for This July, following a competitive tender process, years. Jan’s the family was granted rights to continue to hold granddaughter their market at New Farm’s Powerhouse for the next five years. It’s a move that provides certainty to market-goers and loyal stallholders, some of whom have been selling at the markets for decades. It’s also an endorsement of the family’s combined efforts to date. It’s the pioneering market that changed how Brisbane shops. When tragedy threatened the future of the iconic markets, the resilience of one family saved the day, writes FIONA DONNELLY.

Market manager Andrew Sugden has worked with JPFM From left: for many years. He’s delighted to see another generation Emily, India, go forward with the markets. “It says a lot about the family Astrid and and its values, their commitment to each other and to Olivia Gates. a business and to a city and its producers and farmers. I’ve loved being a part of it and feel now it will go from prospects and undaunted by the hurdles the family has strength to strength.” overcome so far. “There’s been challenge after challenge, and we’ve come out the other end feeling stronger,” she says. Astrid admits the gains haven’t been plain sailing. “The nicest thing is, we’ve come out feeling this is something Only two Powerhouse markets have ever been cancelled, we still want to do.” once during the 2011 floods and the other this year during the 2022 deluge, which also affected availability Olivia agrees. “Power women are just very good at being of produce going forward. hit by blockers, taking the burden on their broad shoulders and saying, what else have you got? It’s been so interesting As she says, there’s no handbook for how to be to see how we’ve all adapted and taken on a role that’s managing director of a farmers’ market. It’s been been needed in the business.” a question of learning as they go. At time, she says, it’s “like herding cats”. Working together has woven a close-knit family even tighter. “We’ve never really understood what each other Determined to maintain the business as a boutique does before,” says Astrid. “But now I have so much market and preserve Jan Power’s vision of the theatre admiration for the girls – they just do a fantastic job. If of food, they only accept 11 per cent of stallholder I’d had to handpick a bunch, it would have been this one.” applications. But they’ve had to be pragmatic, too. “To make it pay the rent we have to let in some resellers. And while their inital immersion into the market That’s the way it is nowadays.” business was brought about by tragedy, Astrid has zero regrets about following her heart. There’s quiet pride that However, you won’t find a resin cat paperweight, her family is now instrumental in an event providing an or recycled guttering for sale at any of their markets. important focal point for the community, supporting “We’re doing it for the love of it. It’s not a commercial small farmers and “people having a go”. enterprise. It’s sustainable but we also have big hopes of chasing up late payers, tightening things up and getting There’s also a deep sense of privilege that the family a few more stalls. We’d like to get to capacity in all the is looking after something her mother founded all those markets,” says Astrid. years ago. India’s business card describes her as “We all know we’re working for someone who did “thinker” at creative agency, something fabulous once and has left it to us to look Thinkerbell. She also looks after after. I’ve no wish at all to go back to banking, being strategy for JPFM. She’s excited booted and suited and on the bus again!” ● about the markets’ future PHOTOGRAPHY RICK GATES (FAMILY). G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 63

The bustling stalls at Jan Powers Farmers Markets. Opposite: local busker and market regular, Daniel.

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Clockwise from above: crowds gather for a day at the markets; organic olive and rosemary sourdough and spelt sourdough loaves from Terry Wilson’s Leavain Bakery; fresh pastries at The Little French Bakery; enoki, oyster and king oyster mushrooms at Mushyking stall. Opposite: Bec Thomas with tulips at Farmgate Flowers Direct. 66 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R



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AUSTRALIA’S BEST FARMERS’ MARKETS Clockwise from above: local entertainment; freshly smoked salmon from Matt Innes’ BAROSSA FARMERS MARKET, SA This South Australian The Wood Smoke Bloke; honey products from institution brings 40 plus local producers together on Best Aussie Bees. Opposite: Beech Mountain Saturday mornings in the atmospheric surrounds of the Distillery’s Zakk Grewal, Jules Hoyle and Yalumba Vintners Shed. barossafarmersmarket.com Clyde Watts with their gin selection. CARRIAGEWORKS FARMERS MARKET, NSW A Saturday morning ritual for savvy Sydney residents. Held in a former rail workshop, stalls sell everything from condiments and biodynamic fruit and veg to handmade chocolate and sourdough breads. carriageworks.com.au MULLUM FARMERS MARKET, NSW Get a start on the weekend at this Friday morning gathering illuminating the best of Northern Rivers. You’ll likely spot big name chefs doing the same thing. mullumfarmersmarket.org.au NOOSA FARMERS MARKET, QLD It’s worth taking time out from the beach to grab a basket and head to this vibrant market. Pitched alongside the AFL oval every Sunday morning, you’ll find the pick of the region. noosafarmersmarket.com.au RUSTY’S MARKET, QLD This must-visit market is in the Cairn’s CBD. It is a mixed market, but the cornucopia of tropical produce on offer from stalls manned by local farmers is extraordinary. rustysmarkets.com.au MARGARET RIVER FARMERS’ MARKET, WA Stallholders must be hands-on producers at MRFM, so you can chat to the person who grew your veggies and they’ll likely be locals, too. Every Saturday morning. margaretriverfarmersmarket.com.au FARM GATE MARKET, TAS This Sunday affair has a civilised kick-off of 8.30am – handy if you’ve been sipping Tassie pinot the night before. Farmers come from around the Apple Isle to sell here. farmgatemarket.com.au HARVEST LAUNCESTON COMMUNITY FARMERS’ MARKET, TAS Much like its home state, Lonnie’s Harvest has blossomed unbelievably over the past decade. Saturday stallholders include the likes of Bruny Island Oysters, with dairy goodness from Elgaar Farm. harvestmarket.org.au ABBOTSFORD FARMERS MARKET, VIC Your $2 entry fee goes to the upkeep of beautiful Abbotsford Convent and this Saturday get-together is worth the investment. It’s inner-city meets the country. abbotsfordconvent.com.au ●

Experience ne dining this Father’s Day with a Gourmet Traveller Gift Card Buy online at gourmettravellergiftcard.com.au and at leading retailers

Words FIONA DONNELLY, MICH AEL HARDEN, JOANNA HUNKIN, TRISTAN LUTZE, KAT SPAIN & MAX VEENHUYZEN. IE Star players PHOTOGRAPHY DUY DASH FOR SOUTH AUSTRALIA TOURISM. Presenting the finalists in the Gourmet Traveller 2023 Restaurant Awards. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 71

BEST NEW RESTAURANT Clockwise from left: the dining PHOTOGRAPHY) STEVEN WOODBURN (LANA).room at Lana; Arkhé chef Jake Kellie; a selection of snacks at Arkhé. SA VIC NSW ARKHÉ, ADELAIDE DI STASIO CARLTON, MELBOURNE LANA, SYDNEY Chef Jake Kellie is fuelled by fire and Rinaldo Di Stasio and Mallory Wall’s It’s been the year of the dining precinct since his new baby Arkhé opened in Carlton outpost is a masterclass in but none does quite it as well as Circular November, he’s worked open flame how to do a restaurant right. A series Quay’s multi-level Hinchcliff House, magic in the Adelaide suburb of of rooms exuberantly dominated where fine-diner Lana sits as the Norwood. A stellar team keeps the cogs with large-scale Reko Rennie art, sparkling pink diamond in the historic turning (and devoted lunch and dinner a gravelled garden with an imported wool store’s crown. She may not have regulars returning). From front of house vintage Roman fountain, big-flavoured received the same fanfare as other new to sommeliers and the bustling kitchen – Italian food that runs the gamut from openings but has proven a dark horse, the camaraderie is palpable. This deliacte anchovies to fior di latte thanks to her glamorous dining room, restaurant exudes energy; best observed soft-serve, fried tripe to lobster pizza. playful (yet whip-smart) service and from a perch overlooking the kitchen. It is Razor-sharp attention to detail, be it a snack-heavy menu full of bold, slick, beautifully designed, and edgy but service or the correct temperature of unexpected flavours. Bonus points the welcome is always as warm as the the Martini, make every meal here for offering one of the best value wood-burning oven and elevation grills. feel like a party. fine-dining menus in Sydney. In short: So hot right now. In short: Guaranteed good times. In short: Flirty and fabulous. 72 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY ADRIAN LANDER (GRILL AMERICANO) & ALANA LANDSBERRY (MARGARET). WA TAS Clockwise from above: the tonal FRUI MOMENTO, MARGARET RIVER PEPPINA, HOBART dining room at Shell House; marinated When word got out that gun Margaret In a town known better for small, octopus at Peppina; River chef Seth James had left Wills idiosyncratic diners, Peppina, the Margaret; Onzieme. Domain to link up with winemaking signature restaurant at Hobart’s swanky phenom Larry Cherubino, expectations new hotel The Tasman, is an anomaly. were high. In Frui Momento, the duo A large beautiful space making the most has delivered on this not-inconsiderable of its historic sandstone bones, Peppina promise with James’s detailed, confident channels a big city hotel restaurant, but food finding a foil in Cherubino’s with chef Massimo Mele at the helm, the expressive wines as well as a cellar menu keeps the focus on Tasmania’s studded with international benchmarks. small and artisan producers, skilfully A new breed of cellar door restaurant. interpreting them in meticulously cooked Italian-leaning dishes. In short: Enjoy the moment. In short: Big is beautiful. NSW NSW MARGARET, SYDNEY SHELL HOUSE DINING ROOM Neil Perry’s decades of supporting and & TERRACE, SYDNEY encouraging artisan producers have come home to roost at Margaret. Superb It may be shallow to judge a venue by produce – particularly astonishingly good its appearance but you’ll be forgiven for seafood – combines with the skill and wanting to wallow in the beauty of the respect it deserves on a menu that Dining Room at Shell House, which easily encapsulates Perry’s cooking lodestars, joins the ranks of the country’s best be that a Thai-style crab salad, simply dressed restaurants. A kitchen driven by grilled King George whiting or a perfectly gun-duo Joel Bickford and Aaron Ward dressed salad. The room, filled by day (who left Aria and Sixpenny respectively with light dappled through leaves, is to take on the decadent diner) brings casually, expensively elegant, the perfect substance to the stylish equation, along backdrop for one of Australia’s living with an all-star line up of floor staff, treasures at the peak of his powers. including top sommelier Alex Kirkwood. In short: Just go. In short: A thing of beauty. ACT ONZIEME, CANBERRA Onzieme is less a wine bar with food than a food bar with an exceptional wine offering. Chef-owner Louis Couttoupes’s snacky, shareable menu built around local goodies draws inspiration far more broadly than the venue’s Parisian name might suggest, his tenure at Bar Rochford honing his ability to design the kind of food that’s best served with a good drop. And while the wine list helpfully separates “fun” whites and reds from the “classic” drops, everything else about Onzieme is pure fun. In short: Paris meets Canberra. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 73

BEST NEW RESTAURANT VIC GRILL AMERICANO, MELBOURNE The latest restaurant in Chris Lucas’s ever-increasing stable is an absolute cracker. Taking its cues from big (New York) city Italian grills, Grill Americano is big and brash in all the right ways – from precision-tooled cocktails and expensive, branded steaks to embroidered napkins and the lush comfort of royal blue bar stools at the white marble bar. It’s an exciting room to dine in and one where you’ll likely give the credit card a nudge on aged Barolo or aged Reggiano and feel right doing it. In short: Beautifully retooled ’80s glam.

PHOTOGRAPHY GRACE DOONER (BLUME) & NIKKI TO (BEACH). BEACH, BYRON BAY From its sun-kissed position atop the dunes framing Clarkes Beach, this bright, breezy bungalow elevates the classic “seafood by the beach” experience while avoiding the too-often-haughty trappings of seaside dining. Chef Alanna Sapwell builds Beach’s casual but serious menu around superlative local produce, be it a selection of oysters bathing in mandarin juice, or a coil of pappardelle caught in a wave of buttery crab and bottarga. With a zippy list of cocktails and wines and an uninterrupted coastal view, Beach is transportingly true to its name. In short: Refined dining soundtracked by waves. BEST DESTINATION DINING Clockwise from above: snacks and drinks at Beach; a terrace with a view at Beach; Brahman’s hump, pink oyster mushroom with aged tamari, chicken fat and rice vinegar emulsion at Blume; and its dining room. BLUME, BOONAH The Scenic Rim is one of Queensland’s most beautiful food bowls. Its rich soils nurture everything from heirloom tomatoes and finger limes to Jurassic quail. Jack Stuart (ex-head chef Gauge, Brisbane) gambled everything to open Blume and give lucky diners a taste of this abundance, and at his thoughtful 20-seater you can savour it all. The pride of place is evident in everything from his chewy sourdough slathered with butter made from rich Tommerup’s Dairy cream, to slices of juicy house chorizo and way beyond. It’s country hospitality, delivered with a polished urban edge. In short: Putting the “ooh ahh” into Boonah. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 75

Clockwise from bottom left: refined dining at Arimia; and the restaurant’s surrounding vineyard; avocado mousse with olive crumb at Mt Lofty Ranges Vineyard; Chauncy’s elegant exterior. Opposite: the dining room at Van Bone. WA SA PHOTOGRAPHY JESS CLARK & RYAN CANTWELL (MT LOFTY). ARIMIA ESTATE, WILYABRUP MT LOFTY RANGES VINEYARD, ADELAIDE HILLS This off-grid, organically certified property in the Margaret River scrub has long been Sharon Pearson and Garry Sweeney’s a touchstone for farm-to-plate eating. Thanks business motto is “transform or die” and to some sharp HR work and menu fine-tuning, it has served them well since moving Arimia feels like an outfit in career-best form. from Sydney to establish their Mt Lofty At the very least it certainly tastes that way: Ranges Vineyard wine brand. What chef Evan Hayter’s knack for showcasing started as a tin shed is now a beautifully pristine southwest ingredients in thrilling designed cellar door and restaurant with ways feels more assured than ever and one of the best views in the state (the reinforces Arimia’s status as must-do dining. split-level patio is particularly stunning when the weather is warm). Head chef In short: Farmhouse dining, reimagined. Jesse White sources ingredients locally (some from the property itself) and restaurant manager Chloe Rickaby and the small but carefully curated team serve lunch and the occasional Friday night dinner service with regional warmth and gusto. In short: Adelaide Hills-meets-Tuscany. VIC CHAUNCY, HEATHCOTE The current Australian passion for traditional French dining gets one of its best expressions at Chauncy where sommelier Tess Murray and chef Louis Naepels channel the spirit of French provincial cooking in a heritage-listed sandstone building on Heathcote’s main street. Utilising small, local producers – cheesemakers, dairy producers, pig farmers, vegetable growers – in service of a set- course menu that might include gougère, classic pork terrine and crème brûlée, Chauncy beautifully evokes a sense of place, both here and there. In short: Heathcote en Provence. 76 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

TAS VAN BONE, MARION BAY There’s no “just driving past and saw your light on” with Van Bone. This is true destination dining where the restaurant is the sole reason for the hour’s drive from Hobart. Laura Stucken and Tim Hardy handle the pressure of great expectations impeccably at their small jewel of a restaurant with its remarkable east coast views and similarly impressive multi-course menu entirely influenced by the produce in their own gardens and from the small producers who live nearby. In short: Worth the trip. PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON (VAN BONE). BEST DESTINATION DINING

Clockwise from BEST NEW TALENT left: Muni chefs Chia Wu (left) QLD and Mug Chen; Alberto’s Lounge ETHAN FERRIS, RESTAURANT LABART chef Elizabeth Mitchell; Celebrated Gold Coaster Labart hadn’t long Restaurant Labart opened when recently qualified chef Ethan Ferris chef Ethan Ferris. joined in 2018. But the recruit’s potential was swiftly recognised. Three years on, when owners Alex Munoz Labart and wife Karla began developing fresh projects, Ferris was handpicked to step up and head Labart’s kitchen. Now while Munoz Labart oversees Paloma, Labart’s funky drinks-focused sibling (see Best Wine Bar finalists), Ferris upholds the highest of standards at understated Labart. A steep curve for a quiet achiever who’s just 26. In short: The future looks bright. NSW ELIZABETH MITCHELL, ALBERTO’S LOUNGE It’s been a big two years for Elizabeth Mitchell. In the wake of 2020’s lockdown restrictions, she launched a series of pop-up dinner parties, Ten Hats, alongside three friends. The sellout events quickly became some of Sydney’s hottest tickets, serving fun updates on old classics in unexpected locations. But it was her step up to head chef at Alberto’s Lounge earlier this year that has turned heads. Humble yet refined, Mitchell’s cooking has reinvigorated the inner-city trattoria while remaining true to the venue’s original spirit. In short: Connecting past and present. SA MUG CHEN & CHIA WU, MUNI When Taiwanese chefs Mug Chen and Chia Wu opened their natural wine bar and restaurant in Willunga in late 2021, it shook things up in the quaint town. Previously, Chen trained in Paris and later honed her skills at Melbourne’s Vue de Monde and McLaren Vale’s The Salopian Inn. Meanwhile, Wu hit the tools at d’Arenberg Cube Restaurant, Fino Vino and The Little Rickshaw. Starting Muni was a bold move. Their beautifully executed Taiwanese-inspired snacks, 11-course set dining menu, and challenging drinks menu is an exciting addition to the wine region. In short: Inspired risk takers. 78 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Clockwise from left: Parcs’s Dennis Yong; Old Young’s Rohan Park; Lana’s Alex Wong; Helly Raichura of Enter Via Laundry. PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN (YONG & RAICHURA), VIC VIC HELLY RAICHURA, DENNIS YONG, PARCS ENTER VIA LAUNDRY When Dennis Yong was contemplating Helly Raichura’s hospitality voyage is a career change while working at Sunda, hardly typical. Her passion for cooking, restaurateur Adi Halim (owner of Sunda, fostered at home in India, was turbo- Aru and The Windsor) offered him his charged after moving to Australia and own restaurant where he could focus encountering the limited scope of Indian on his dual passions: sustainable dining food. She opened Enter via Laundry in and fermentation. It was inspired casting her house with a waitlist in the thousands, with Yong having the talent and and did things her way, bringing fine imagination to turn a worthy cause dining and Australian native ingredients to into an outstandingly delicious one. traditional Indian dishes. No longer in her Repurposing ingredients that would house, EVL still has an atypical entrance otherwise be headed for the bin, Yong and Raichura continues to make it unique. creates unique flavours and a highly In short: Go your own way. original dining experience. NSW In short: Tasty waste. ALEX WONG, LANA WA The original pitch pegged Lana as ROHAN PARK, a seafood-focused Italian fine-diner. But OLD YOUNG’S KITCHEN given the freedom to explore, head chef Alex Wong turned Lana’s menu into a far During high school, Rohan Park spent more intriguing proposition, peppering a year boarding in the Swan Valley. Italian staples with a diverse range After cooking his way through the state, of flavours. Take for instance, his siu he’s back and stationed at Old Young’s mai-inspired cappelletti, filled with pork Kitchen, an easy-going distillery restaurant and prawn and served in an umami- making Indigenous flavours accessible to packed dashi. Wong’s snack game is all. From cured kingfish sharpened with so strong, it’s spawned its own menu, finger lime and pepperberry to kangaroo Lana’s Play List. And like all the best hits, tartare with youlk and a crocodile garum, you’ll want to keep these on repeat. Park’s cooking prioritises deliciousness In short: Hit maker. and supporting First Nations growers and communities. In short: Connecting past and present. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 79

RESTAURANT PERSONALITY OF THE YEAR SA QLD PHOTOGRAPHY BEN MACMAHON (CLAPPIS) & PAUL HARRIS (GLOFTIS). ANDY CLAPPIS, SIMON GLOFTIS OUR PLACE AT WILLUNGA HILL After steering the launch of four Smiles don’t get wider, nor greetings standout Brisbane venues in four more genuine than those delivered by years (Hellenika, SK Steak & Oyster, Andy Clappis when visitors arrive at his Sunshine and Sushi Room), you’d hilltop McLaren Vale restaurant. Demand expect restaurateur Simon Gloftis for his hearty Sunday Italian lunches (and might be far too busy back of house his charisma) is fierce. Andy’s 89-year- to continue to make floor appearances. old father Enzo Clappis is always nearby. Not a chance. Starting in hospitality as Hospitality legend Enzo and his late wife a teenager with a market corn-on-the- Sonia arrived in Australia in 1951 after cob stall, Gloftis has spent time enough fleeing Europe as post-war refugees. – washing dishes, topping pizze, They went on to pave the way in Italian running coffee bars and more – to dining in South Australia. When he’s not know true hands-on commitment by helping in the kitchen, Enzo proudly owners is key to creating the elusive watches his son work the crowd. His alchemy that keeps diners returning. whole roast pig and coveted cannoli are served with a side of drama. In short: Committed to excellence. Above: Andy Clappis. In short: From Italy, with love. Top right: Simon Gloftis. 80 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

VIC TAS SHANNON MARTINEZ LAURA STUCKEN, VAN BONE Author of three mega-selling cookbooks Given Laura Stucken’s ease and charm (with a fourth on the way), owner and on the floor of Van Bone, the isolated chef of Australia’s most famous vegan east coast Tasmanian restaurant she food joints, Smith + Daughters and co-owns and manages, you’d presume Smith + Deli, executive chef at Ovolo a hospitality background. But you’d only South Yarra’s Lona Misa restaurant and be partly right – Stucken is an interior a regular feature of TV cooking shows, designer who has worked on numerous magazines and festivals, Shannon hospitality venues (including the Martinez is great talent with a superb renowned Pumphouse Point). Now sense of humour and style. But perhaps she’s designed a restaurant of her own her greatest achievement is making and the warmth and elegance of the plant-based eating fun, irreverent and timber-forward design is the perfect delicious, helping shift the narrative backdrop for the relaxed style she from fad to fabulous. brings to serving Van-Bone’s multi- course menu. In short: Plant-based revolutionary. In short: Well-designed service. PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON (STRUCKEN) & KRISTOFFER PAULSEN (MARTINEZ). WA Clockwise from left: Lulu ELISE JACOBSEN, LULU LA DELIZIA La Delizia’s Elise Jacobsen; Bucatini. Gramigna. Corzetti: Lulu’s Shannon pastas are everywhere on Instagram. But Martinez; Van what those little squares can’t capture Bone’s Laura is the buzz and superior hospitality of Stucken. this mighty neighbourhood eatery: take a bow Elise Jacobsen, Lulu’s smiley G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 81 restaurant manager and service talisman. From the moment you arrive, Jacobsen and her tight-knit crew work non-stop to make guests feel welcome, the floor team’s infectious charm and warm patter as much a draw as the food and drink. In short: Leading by example.

WINE BAR OF THE YEAR Clockwise from left: Bar Rochford’s cosy PHOTOGRAPHY ASHLEY ST GEORGE/PEW PEW STUDIO (ROCHFORD) & NIKKI TO (PASKI).dining room; and Bay of Colombo cocktail; aperitivo hour at Paski. ACT NSW BAR ROCHFORD, CANBERRA PASKI VINERIA POPOLARE, SYDNEY One of the engineers of Canberra’s It was meant to be a bottle shop – but current dining boom, Bar Rochford when Italian wine importers Giorgio de remains as excitingly, joyously relevant Maria and Mattia Dicati signed the lease as it has been since its 2015 opening. on their Oxford Street premises, the pair Whether it’s for world-class cocktail and quickly realised they needed to think a plate of lobster vol-au-vents, a glass bigger and make the most of the prime of something white, pink, orange or red two-storey establishment. Enter fellow with a skewer of smoked beef tongue, Italian and former 10 William St chef or a multi-course Mediterranean-tinged Enrico Tomelleri as the trio set about dining experience with an affordable launching one of the country’s most bottle of something biodynamic, vibrant wining and dining destinations. ascending the slim staircase to this With downstairs reserved for walk-ins joyous, warm space is even more and those looking to take home a bottle transportive today than it was seven of something juicy, Paski is made for years ago. casual catch-ups and impromptu snack attacks. In short: Still got it In short: Buono bottle-o. 82 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

VIC Clockwise from left: Paloma’s interiors; BAR MERENDA, DAYLESFORD and its Coconut Old Fashioned; the bar At Bar Merenda the person next to at Good Gilbert. you might have made the wine you’re drinking, though they themselves may be QLD drinking something stonkingly good from Europe. With its casual, home-made feel PALOMA, BURLEIGH HEADS and the extensive knowledge (and cellar) of owners Andy Ainsworth and Clare The fun literally spills onto the pavement at Burleigh Head’s O’Flynn, Merenda is just the kind of wine groovy Paloma. Chic, with clean-lined retro-Mediterranean bar that a town in one of Australia’s interiors, this wine bar is the handiwork of the owners of most interesting and forward-thinking nearby Labart and it rocks. Expect a Euro-centric wine list wine-growing regions should have. Add studded with stacks of natural and small-batch goodness, some simple but excellent wine bar food matched with smart plates ranging from a hunger-busting and you may find a quick drink turning steak frites with peppercorn sauce, to boquerones on toast, into a long evening. and shisito peppers with salmorejo. Add in friendly, slick service and sharp cocktails, and Paloma gets a big tick from us. In short: Right place, right time. In short: Rewriting Gold Coast stereotypes. PHOTOGRAPHY KENNY SMITH (PALOMA). SA GOOD GILBERT, GOODWOOD As friendly neighbourhood bars go, Good Gilbert is the epitome of community spirit. Co-owners Wilson and Isabelle Shawyer did the bar’s creative fit-out and art-packed interior themselves. The couple is dedicated to sharing great wine at an accessible price; from great entry-level chardonnay to Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Nuits St Georges Blanc and everything in between. The wine list changes weekly and head chef Savannah Sexton’s menu is a drawcard of its own. Even pooches are welcome (there’s a wall of polaroids devoted to them). In short: All heart and soul. WA CASA, MOUNT HAWTHORN This mid-century fantasy of stone and wood wouldn’t look out of place in Milan or Rome, but rare is the enoteca that stores all its (lo-fi, organically farmed) wine in seven different temperature-specific fridges. The kitchen’s repertoire of Mexican-y, Japanese-y small plates would likely confuse Italians, ditto the Aussie twang of cheery staff that run the show. But for Perth drinkers seeking both style and substance, Casa feels like home. In short: Mi casa, su casa. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 83

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PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY. STYLING DAVID MORGAN. SEPTEMBER Sunny side up Golden sweet and savoury delights, a flavour-packed Middle Eastern brunch, and colourful recipes that hero vegetables. Croque-madame crêpes p96 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 87

GOLDEN Photography BEN DEARNLEY Styling DAVID MORGAN Japanese soufflé Food preparation ISMAT AWAN pancakes with From uffy pancakes to cheesy crêpes, kick-start genmaicha sugar your day with these avourful brekkie recipes. p95 Recipes JESSICA BROOK

Croque-madame crêpes p96 HOUR G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 89

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Ricotta, pea and Pepperberry crumpets with parmesan crespelle whipped balsamic butter SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 30 MINS SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS RESTING) (PLUS RESTING) 300 ml milk 2 For balsamic butter, place butter in 7 gm (1 sachet) dried yeast a bowl of an electric mixer fitted with 125 gm plain flour, sifted a paddle attachment and beat butter 250 ml (1 cup) milk 200 gm plain flour, sifted until pale (8 minutes). Add remaining 40 gm melted butter, plus extra for 2 tsp caster sugar ingredients and beat until well combined ¾ tsp bicarbonate of soda (2 minutes). brushing 2 tsp finely crushed pepperberries Cover and refrigerate until required. 2 eggs, lightly beaten ½ tsp vegetable oil, for frying 3 Heat a heavy-based frying pan over 150 gm baby frozen peas, thawed, Honey, to serve medium-high heat, grease with butter and place 3 greased 10cm metal crumpet chopped BALSAMIC BUTTER rings in pan to heat. Fold pepperberries 450 gm fresh ricotta, drained through batter, then fill each ring with 80ml 50 gm finely grated parmesan, plus 150 gm unsalted butter, softened (1⁄3 cup) batter and cook until holes appear, 1½ tbsp balsamic vinegar and top has set (10 minutes). Using tongs extra to serve 40 gm (¼ cup) icing sugar mixture carefully remove rings and turn crumpets. 1 tsp finely grated lemon zest Cook until just golden (1 minute). Regrease 1 egg, extra 2 tsp vanilla bean paste rings and repeat with remaining batter. ¼ cup (loosely packed) each flat-leaf 4 Serve crumpets toasted, topped with 1 Mix milk and yeast together in a jug balsamic butter and drizzled with honey. parsley and tarragon, finely chopped or bowl and set aside until surface is Note Crumpets will keep refrigerated for Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling foamy (5 minutes). Combine flour, sugar, a few days. ➤ 500 gm cherry truss tomatoes bicarbonate of soda and ½ tsp fine Sliced prosciutto, to serve cooking salt in a large bowl. Gradually whisk in yeast mixture until smooth. 1 For crespelle, place flour in a bowl. Cover and set aside in a warm place In a separate bowl, whisk together milk, until surface is foamy (1 hour). melted butter, eggs and a pinch of salt. Gradually add milk mixture to flour, whisking until smooth; cover and refrigerate (1 hour). 2 Place peas in a bowl with ricotta, parmesan, lemon rind, egg and herbs. Season to taste and mix to combine. 3 Preheat oven to 220˚C. Heat a 21cm crêpe pan over medium-high heat, brush with extra melted butter then pour in 80ml (1⁄3 cup) crespelle batter, swirling to spread thinly over base. Cook until golden on base and dry on surface (1-2 minutes); turn and cook on the other side (30 seconds). Transfer to a tray lined with baking paper, wipe out pan with paper towel and repeat with remaining batter, stacking crespelle as you go. 4 Place crespelle on a work surface, divide ricotta mixture between each, leaving a 1cm border. Fold into quarters. Place in a single layer on a lightly greased oven tray lined with baking paper, drizzle with oil and bake on the top shelf until bubbling (10-12 minutes). 5 Meanwhile, place cherry tomatoes on a separate oven tray and roast until blistered (15 minutes). 6 Divide crespelle among plates, scatter with extra parmesan and serve with cherry tomatoes and prosciutto.

Crisp potato waffles with sauce gribiche SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 30 MINS 225 gm (1½ cups) plain flour 35 gm (¼ cup) cornflour 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 375 ml (1½ cups) buttermilk 60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil 2 eggs, separated 1 sebago potato (200gm), peeled, coarsely grated 40 gm finely grated pecorino pepato (see note) Rocket leaves, to serve SAUCE GRIBICHE 6 cornichons, finely chopped 1 tbsp baby capers, rinsed 1 tsp Dijon mustard 60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley and chives 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled, chopped 1 For sauce gribiche, combine cornichons, capers, mustard, olive oil, vinegar and herbs in a bowl and whisk to combine. Add eggs, season to taste and mix to combine; set aside. 2 Sift flours, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda into a large bowl and mix to combine. Add buttermilk, oil and egg yolks; season and whisk until smooth. Squeeze any moisture from grated potato then add to the batter along with cheese; fold to combine. 3 Whisk egg whites and a pinch of salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk until stiff peaks form. Add egg white to flour mixture and gently fold to combine. 4 Heat a waffle iron to medium heat and lightly brush with oil. Pour about ¼ cup batter into each section of the iron (depending on its size) and cook waffles until golden brown (4-5 minutes). Repeat with remaining batter. 5 Serve waffles with sauce gribiche, rocket and cracked black pepper. Note Pecorino pepato, a sheep’s milk cheese flavoured with whole black peppercorns, is available from cheese shops and select supermarkets. ➤

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Okonomiyaki hotcakes with school prawns SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 30 MINS 300 gm (2 cups) plain flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp caster sugar 1½ tbsp baking powder 1 tbsp dashi powder 1 tsp ground white pepper 500 ml (2 cups) skim milk 1 tbsp sesame oil 60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil, plus extra for shallow-frying 300 gm green school prawns 150 gm (¼ small) Savoy cabbage, trimmed, finely shredded Furikake, Kewpie mayonnaise, Bull-Dog sauce and bonito flakes, to serve (see note) 1 Place flour, sugar, powders and pepper Japanese soufflé pancakes with genmaicha sugar in a large bowl, and whisk to combine. Place milk and sesame oil in a jug, and SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 20 MINS whisk to combine. Gradually add milk mixture to the flour and whisk until just 4 eggs, separated, at room temperature egg whites and continue to whisk combined (small lumps are fine). 80 ml (⅓ cup) soy milk until stiff peaks form (1-2 minutes). 2 Preheat oven to 100˚C. Heat two 15cm 4 Add one-third of egg white mixture heavy-based skillets over medium-high 1 tsp vanilla extract to egg yolk mixture and gently fold heat. Add 2 tsp oil to each pan and swirl 1 tsp finely grated lime rind to combine. Repeat twice until egg to coat base. Pour 160ml (2⁄3 cup) batter 100 gm (⅔ cup) self-raising flour, sifted whites are incorporated. into each skillet. Cover with a lid (or foil), ½ tsp baking powder, sifted 5 Grease four 10cm baking rings and reduce heat to low and cook until golden ¼ tsp cream of tartar line sides with baking paper. Brush and crisp on the base and the top is dry 55 gm (¼ cup) caster sugar a large non-stick frying pan with oil (4-5 minutes). Remove lid, carefully turn and place over medium-low heat; add pancake with a spatula and cook until Vegetable oil, for brushing prepared rings to pan. Spoon mixture golden and set (4-5 minutes). Maple syrup, softened salted butter, into rings and smooth top with a metal 3 Remove hotcakes from pans, place sliced blood oranges, to serve spoon. Cover pan with lid and cook until on a lined tray and keep warm in oven. pancakes are light golden on base and Repeat with remaining oil and batter. GENMAICHA SUGAR sides begin to set (5-6 minutes). Remove 4 Meanwhile, for school prawns, fill lid and use tongs to carefully remove a large saucepan half full with oil. Place 1½ tbsp genmaicha (see note) rings; gently turn pancakes using over medium heat until it reaches 180˚C. 40 gm (¼ cup) pure icing sugar, sifted a spatula. Replace lid and cook until Dust prawns in flour then shallow fry, just set and golden (3-5 minutes). in two batches, until golden and crisp 1 For genmaicha sugar, place tea in Transfer to a tray and keep warm. (3-4 minutes). Drain on paper towel and a spice grinder or mortar and pestle and Repeat with remaining batter. Makes 8. sprinkle with furikake. Repeat with grind until fine. Transfer to a bowl, add 6 Serve pancakes immediately topped remaining prawns. icing sugar and mix to combine; set aside. with butter, maple syrup and sliced blood 5 To serve, portion hotcakes as desired 2 Place egg yolks, milk, vanilla and lime oranges, dusted with genmaicha sugar. and divide among plates, drizzle with rind in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Note Genmaicha, a Japanese brown Kewpie and bulldog sauce. Top with Add flour and baking powder and stir rice tea made with loose leaf green tea cabbage, prawns and serve scattered until smooth and combined. leaves and roasted popped brown rice, with bonito flakes and furikake. 3 Whisk egg whites in the bowl of an is available from Japanese grocers. ➤ Note Furikake, bonito flakes, Kewpie electric mixer fitted with a whisk mayonnaise and bulldog sauce are attachment on high until frothy (30 available from Japanese grocers. seconds). Combine cream of tartar and sugar in a small bowl. With motor running, gradually add sugar mixture to G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 95

Syrian filled pancakes with pistachio cream SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS STANDING, RESTING) 150 gm (1 cup) plain flour, sifted 1 Combine flour, semolina, sugar, baking 4 Heat a large non-stick frying pan over 85 gm (½ cup) fine semolina powder, yeast and milk in a blender and medium heat. Lightly brush pan with oil. blend until smooth. Set aside to rest for Cook 2 tbsp batter until bubbles appear 2 tbsp caster sugar 30 minutes. Add a pinch of salt and blend on surface and pancake is dry to touch 1 tsp baking powder again until combined; rest (10 minutes). (2 minutes, do not flip). Place base-side 7 gm (1 sachet) dried yeast 2 Meanwhile, for pistachio cream, place down on an oven tray lined with baking 500 ml (2 cups) lukewarm milk pistachios, milk, orange zest and vanilla paper and repeat with remaining batter. in a small saucepan over medium heat. Makes 18. Vegetable oil, for brushing Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to 5 To assemble, spoon 1 tbsp pistachio Finely crushed freeze-dried low and cook until pistachios are soft cream into centre of each pancake. raspberries and rose petals (see note), (10 minutes); set aside to cool completely. Fold and pinch edges to seal. Repeat to serve Once cool, transfer to a clean blender with remaining filling. with ricotta, and blend until smooth; 6 Place pancakes on a large platter and PISTACHIO CREAM refrigerate until ready to use. spoon over syrup; set aside to soak for 3 Meanwhile, for orange syrup, 5 minutes. Serve scattered with chopped 75 gm (⅓ cup) slivered pistachios, combine sugar and 250ml water in pistachios, crushed freeze-dried plus extra chopped to serve a small saucepan over medium-high raspberries and rose petals. heat. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat Note Pancakes will keep refrigerated 180 ml (¾ cup) milk to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, in syrup for up to 3 days. Freeze-dried 2 tsp finely grated orange zest until sugar dissolves (1-2 minutes). raspberries and rose petals are available 1 tsp vanilla bean paste Remove from heat, add orange juice from specialty food stores. and orange blossom water. Set aside. 240 gm (1 cup) fresh ricotta, drained ORANGE SYRUP 330 gm (1½ cups) caster sugar 2 tbsp orange juice 1 tbsp orange blossom water Croque-madame crêpes SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS RESTING, COOLING) 40 gm unsalted butter, plus extra melted 1 Heat butter in a small saucepan over a quarter of the parmesan and cook for brushing high heat and cook until foaming and nut until just starting to melt (1 minute). Pour brown (1-2 minutes). Remove from heat; in 80ml crêpe batter, swirling to spread 1 egg, lightly beaten set aside to cool slightly. evenly and thinly over base. Cook until 250 ml (1 cup) milk 2 Place butter, egg and milk in a blender golden on base and dry on the surface and blend until just combined. Add ½ tsp (1-2 minutes); transfer to a tray lined with 75 gm buckwheat flour salt, flours and nutmeg, and blend until baking paper. Wipe pan with paper towel 2 tbsp plain flour smooth; refrigerate for 20 minutes. and repeat with remaining parmesan 3 Meanwhile, for bechamel, melt butter and batter, stacking crêpes as you go. Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg in a small saucepan over medium-high 5 Preheat oven to 200˚C. Line a second 40 gm finely grated parmesan heat, stir in flour and cook until a sandy large oven tray with baking paper. Place 300 gm shaved smoked leg ham texture (1-2 minutes); gradually whisk in crêpes on prepared trays and spread milk. Add mustard and season to taste. with béchamel (leaving a 2cm border). Fried eggs, charred asparagus and Whisk continuously until mixture thickens Top with ham, fold edges of crêpe over baby pea shoots, to serve (4-5 minutes). Remove from heat, stir in to enclose filling, then sprinkle with half of the cheese, cover directly with remaining Gruyère. Bake until cheese is BECHAMEL a cartouche and set aside. lightly golden (8-10 minutes). Serve 4 Heat a 21cm non-stick crêpe pan over topped with fried eggs, charred 50 gm butter, chopped medium-high heat and brush lightly with asparagus and baby pea shoots. ● 35 gm (¼ cup) plain flour extra melted butter. Sprinkle pan with 350 ml warm milk 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 100 gm finely grated Gruyère 96 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R



Recipes TAMIKA O’NEILL the f Food preparation KATHY KNUDSEN ast, ak Bre Labne with Chickpea and nigella, anise and broad bean falafel pomegranate p106 p103 Photography ALICIA TAYLOR Styling OLIVIA BLACKMORE

spr Falafel Futagami brass spoonlove and Ihada Kobo coaster from The DEA Store. Stoneware plates by Rob Fuller Ceramics on Etsy. All other props stylist’s own. Cauli ower hummus, burnt paprika butter p106 ead the Do breakfast a little differently this weekend and create a avour-packed Middle Eastern feast to share. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 99

Fatteh Asili soapstone dish from Gingerfinch. Powder Blue Ella Zellige Look Tiles from Tile and Bath Co. All other props stylist’s own.