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The breakfast issue Food 88 GOLDEN HOUR From pancakes to crumpets, kick-start your day with these golden morning favourites. Ricotta, pea and parmesan 108 RAINBOW WARRIOR crespelle.................................91 Celebrate vegetables with Pepperberry crumpets with these plant-forward recipes whipped balsamic butter ...91 from Alice Hart’s new cookbook The Magnificent Crisp potato waffles with sauce Book of Vegetables. gribiche.................................. 92 Okonomiyaki hotcakes with school prawns .....................95 Soufflé pancakes with genmaicha sugar................95 Syrian filled pancakes with pistachio cream...................96 Croque-madame crêpes........96 98 BREAK THE FAST, Beetroot risotto with crisp sage SPREAD THE LOVE and crème fraîche .............111 Shake up your breakfast Roast cauliflower with crisp routine with vibrant Middle breadcrumbs ......................112 Eastern flavours. Smashed new potato salad Spiced eggplant and chickpea with blue cheese and PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY. STYLING DAVID MORGAN. fatteh ..................................... 101 endive ..................................113 Rose and Cardamom Tea Purple sprouting broccoli Punch .................................... 101 paccheri...............................114 Turkish eggs with samoon......102 Roast rainbow carrots with Labne with nigella, anise and olives, spelt and tarragon .....................114 pomegranate.........................103 Falafel with cauliflower hummus and burnt paprika butter......................................105 Baked sardines with zhoug ................................... 105 Za’atar manouche with haloumi................................ 106 Citrus Spritz ............................106

PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. SEPTEMBER 2022 Features 58 COFFEE’S NEXT WAVE ON THE COVER Follow Nadia Bailey’s foray into Australia’s ever- Soufflé pancakes with growing coffee industry. genmaicha sugar (p95) 62 A NEW DAWN Recipe Jessica Brook From tragedy comes a new hope for Brisbane’s beloved Photography Ben Dearnley Jan Powers Farmers Markets, writes Fiona Donnelly. 71 STAR PLAYERS Styling David Morgan Presenting the finalists in the Gourmet Traveller 2023 Restaurant Awards. SUBSCRIBE Travel magshop.com.au/GMT 120 GOOD MORNING AMERICA Details p84 Travel across four states with Alexandra Carlton as she Regulars uncovers the best of America’s breakfasts. 9 UPFRONT Editor’s letter, contributors and news. 128 TURKISH DELIGHT 27 FIVE OF A KIND Bacon. Dilvin Yasa discovers why kahvaltı is Turkey’s most 28 A QUICK WORD Deborah Sams. important meal of the day and where best to enjoy it. 30 THE KITCHEN GARDENER Artichokes. 32 COMMUNITY X KYLIE Sally Scales. 136 MORNING GLORY 34 WINE COUNTRY Margaret River. From starched white tablecloths to little pats of butter, 36 COCKTAIL HOUR Michelada. Lee Tulloch reminisces about hotel breakfasts. 39 REVIEW Dining out. 47 EVERYDAY Simple, fast everyday meals. 138 AUSTRALIA’S BEST HOTEL BREAKFASTS 56 MASTERCLASS Congee. GT unveils the five-star breakfasts worth rolling 118 THE ART OF TRAVEL Breakfasting boldly. out of bed for. 126 A CHEF’S GUIDE Perth. GOURMET TRAVELLER 5 134 CHECKING IN QT, Newcastle. 146 STYLE Home, fashion and beauty. 154 OBJECTS OF DESIRE Toasters. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY Gourmet Traveller acknowledges the Gadigal people of the Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present. This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Are Media Pty Ltd (Are Media). Are Media may use and disclose your information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including to provide you with your requested products or services and to keep you informed of other Are publications, products, services and events. Our Privacy Policy is located at aremedia.com.au/privacy/. It also sets out how you can access or correct your personal information and lodge a complaint. Are Media may disclose your personal information offshore to its owners, joint venture partners, service providers and agents located throughout the world, including in New Zealand, USA, the Philippines and the European Union. In addition, this issue may contain Reader Offers, being offers, competitions or surveys. Reader Offers may require you to provide personal information to enter or to take part. Personal information collected for Reader Offers may be disclosed by us to service providers assisting Are Media in the conduct of the Reader Offer and to other organisations providing special prizes or offers that are part of the Reader Offer. An opt-out choice is provided with a Reader Offer. Unless you exercise that opt-out choice, personal information collected for Reader Offers may also be disclosed by us to other organisations for use by them to inform you about other products, services or events or to give to other organisations that may use this information for this purpose. If you require further information, please contact Are’s Privacy Officer either by email at [email protected] or mail to Privacy Officer, Are Media Pty Ltd, 54 Park St, Sydney, NSW 2000.

FIND EDI HARD TO T Gifts for dad Joanna Hunkin 1 Trilogia Circulo rug in Emerald, $1250, Art Hide. Editor 2 Grey nylon backpack, $379, Adolfo Dominguez. Deputy Editor Karlie Verkerk 3 Invigorating shampoo, $45, Hunter Lab. Acting Deputy Editor Anna McCooe 4 Bowie The Poet sunglasses, $169, Tribu Eyewear. Art hardtofind.com.au Art Director Lauren de Sousa Designer Holly Doran Words Acting Digital Editor Callum McDermott Senior Sub-editor Suzanna Chriss Writer Jordan Kretchmer Editorial Coordinator Charlotte Wishart Food Group Food Director Sophia Young Senior Food Editor Dominic Smith Style Creative Consultant Hannah Blackmore Contributors Nadia Bailey, Alexandra Carlton, Fiona Donnelly, Michael Harden, Anna Hart, Matty Hirsch, Kylie Kwong, Tristan Lutze, Samantha Payne, Simon Rickard, Jessica Rigg, Katie Spain, Lee Tulloch, Max Veenhuyzen, Dilvin Yasa, Hannah-Rose Yee Advertising Group Commercial Brand Manager Rhyl Heavener Advertising Production Manager Kate Orsborn Brand executive Julia Maher Director of Sales (NSW, Vic, WA and SA) Karen Holmes Head of Direct Sales (Vic, SA, WA) Will Jamison Queensland Head of Sales Judy Taylor Senior Events Manager Cate Gazal Advertising enquiries [email protected] Marketing, Research & Circulation Marketing Director Louise Cankett Circulation Manager Nicole Pearson Senior Research Analyst Ania Falenciak Senior Manager Subscriptions Ellie Xuereb Junior Manager Subscriptions Anjali Israni Are Media Chief Executive Officer Jane Huxley Group Publisher Nicole Byers Director of Sales Andrew Cook Head of Commercial Content and Creative Simon Smith Business Manager Georgina Bromfield Editorial office GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001, Australia phone +61 2 9282 8758 Subscriptions Gourmet Traveller, Reply Paid 5252, Sydney, NSW 2001, Australia, phone 136 116, email [email protected] @gourmettraveller [email protected] GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU Published by Are Media Pty Limited. ABN 18 053 273 546. 54-58 Park St, Sydney, NSW, 2000, (02) 9282 8000. The trade mark Gourmet Traveller is the property of Are Media Pty Limited and is used under licence. ©2020 All rights reserved. Printed by IVE, Unit 1/83 Derby St, Silverwater, NSW, 2128. National distribution by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd. 1300 650 666. Gourmet Traveller cannot accept unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. If such materials are sent to the magazine, they will not be returned. Price in Australia, $9.99; in New Zealand, NZ$10.99; digital edition, $3.99. Subscription rates: 1 year (12 issues) $74.99 via automatic renewal; 1 year (12 issues) $79.99 via credit card or cheque; NZ (airspeed) 1 year, $120; overseas (airspeed) 1 year, $180; digital edition monthly, $2.99; 6 months, $9.99; 1 year, $19.99. Vol 20 No 5 ISSN 1034-9006 6 GOURMET TRAVELLER



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SUBSCRIBE NOW Editor’s letter Editor’s letter magshop.com.au/gmt What a difference a year makes. This time last year, Details p84 we were in the middle of a seemingly endless lockdown, frantically debating whether to go ahead with our annual Restaurant Awards as the industry remained shuttered. This year, as we announce our 2023 finalists, the industry is buzzing. Tourists are back, dining rooms are full, and new openings continue to raise the bar and prove that the Australian dining is some of the most dynamic and creative in the world. That’s not to downplay the ongoing struggles plaguing the industry – from chronic staff shortages to brutal price hikes – but compared to the state of the industry last year, things are much brighter. And so, it is our great pleasure to celebrate the industry this month and single out those that are flying high and bringing joy to diners across Australia. Next month, we will reveal our winners and the full guide to Australia’s best restaurants at a glamorous gala evening at Shell House in Sydney. Until then, congratulations to all our finalists! GOURME EDPP R O V T WHAT GT LOVES THIS MONTH A PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY (PORTRAIT). Apulian Skies Sodastream Art We may still be welcoming spring Add a little spritz to your day with OME INSP but Alex and Trahanas have us this new retro-chic model from ready to fire up the grill and Sodastream. Featuring a special carbonation lever for extra pizazz, prepare an alfresco feast with their this groovy number is a welcome newest collection, inspired by the addition to any kitchen bench. ancient olive groves and sparkling sodastream.com.au seas of Puglia. Bellissimo. alexandtrahanas.com Loco Love Lover’s Box Every bite is a delight in IRATION Never Never x Maybe Sammy this beautifully presented gift box It’s no secret the team at Maybe of artisanal chocolates from H Sammy makes some of the best Loco Love. Plant-based and cocktails in Australia. So it’s little gluten-free, flavours include salted caramel with mesquite, wild rose surprise its new collaboration with Never Never Distilling – with goji, and more. a beeswax and olive gin – locolove.com is equally award-worthy. neverneverdistilling.com.au EMAIL [email protected] // FOLLOW @GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINE GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU GOURMET TRAVELLER 9

Contributors A new dawn p62 DILVIN YASA MARKUS RAVIK JESSICA BROOK PHOTOGRAPHY MARKUS RAVIK (MARKETS) & BEN DEARNLEY (BROOK). writer photographer chef Turkish Delight, p128 A new dawn, p62 Golden hour, p88 Visiting her ancestral homeland Variety is the spice of life for Jessica Brook is a professional of Istanbul to eat a months’ worth photographer Markus Ravik, who chef, food editor and stylist – of breakfast in the space of five relishes the challenge of shooting and, most importantly, a regular days is not an unusual undertaking something different every day. contributor to Gourmet Traveller. for journalist, author and TV So he was the perfect person to For this issue, Brook developed presenter DIlvin Yasa. “I’ve never capture Brisbane’s bustling Jan a collection of recipes ideal for understood why you’d want to start Powers Farmers Market, which a slow Sunday morning at home. the day with cereal when you can features in this issue. While there, “Pancakes, waffles and crumpets delight in a conga-line of joyful Ravik was drawn to the friendly were a go-to Sunday ritual growing dishes, all so rich and varied in stallholders, market-goers and up, and I love these breakfast flavour,” she explains. Dilvin visits overall sense of community, as batters.” says Brook. “They don’t Istanbul at least once a year, in well as a regular busker named all have to rely on syrups to make the hope she can eventually Daniel. “He is such a character them shine and are perfect either convince her English husband and is always welcomed at the savoury or sweet, for breakfast to stop putting milk in his tea. markets,” says Ravik. or even dinner.” 10 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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Dishes and destinations The Gourmet Traveller team share where they’ve been and what they’re eating. The Arctic Circle A crisper glass of Champagne, you will never find. This moment marked our arrival at the 81st parallel north – around 900kms from the North Pole – aboard Le Commandant Charcot. Unforgettable. Joanna Hunkin, editor Kaua`i, Hawi`i Heifer Station vineyard, Orange The dramatic Kalalau Valley is one of the Exploring the Orange wine region by bike was a great way to visit the many deepest and most recognisable on the wineries and cellar doors dotted along Nā Pali coastline. The craggy ridges draw picturesque country roads. Not to be in moisture making for an ever-changing missed is the historic town of Millthrope. Grab a coffee and step back in time, climate, meaning you could see clouds, wandering the heritage-listed village. blue skies and rainbows all within an hour. Holly Doran, graphic designer Jordan Kretchmer, writer Lyon, France Sushi Oe, Cammeray Our journey to Provence was punctuated Chef Toshhiko Oe lets nothing go to with a sojourn at the freshly transformed waste as he serves up 27 courses of InterContinental Hotel Dieu in Lyon, meticulously sourced and sliced sashimi, where 18th-century design, luxurious perfectly cooked rice, and balanced broths. details and panoramic views of the There’s a reason this omakase is one of Rhône made for a memorable stay. most sought-after bookings in town. Karlie Verkerk, deputy editor 476 Miller Street, Cammeray, NSW Charlotte Wishart, editorial coordinator 12 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Walking together, working together. Although from very different backgrounds, porkstar.com.au these industry luminaries share many wonderful traits: talent, passion, respect and a great love for that no-waste, forever-giving, magical beast known as - The Pig. Masters of their crafts, they know full well, the endless delicious possibilities it provides. They are PorkStars. Pictured (L-R): Adrian Richardson - Chef, Judy Croagh - Farmer, Ross Magnaye - Chef, Mick Nunn - Charcutier, Annie Smithers - Chef.

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SEPTEMBER NEWS Edited by JORDAN KRETCHMER Spicers Tower Lodge, Hunter SPRING IN YOUR STEP Valley A preview of the Mornington Peninsula’s new p22 spa and dining destination, new restaurants to try, cool condiments and fruity facts. PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 15

THE LATEST FROM CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS AROUND THE WORLD RESTAURANT NEWS VICTORIA QUEENSLAND PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN (LOTI). St Kilda has welcomed Loti, bringing In Port Douglas, the team behind Oaks Mediterranean vibes to the seaside Kitchen & Garden has opened Jungle suburb. Located within the new Saint Fowl, serving Thai dishes with produce Moritz precinct, Loti’s head chef Elijah plucked from the Oaks garden. The Holland will showcase the skills he banquet menu features ma hor honed while working across Lume, (caramelised pork with prawn served Noma Australia, Aria and Quay, with on pineapple), Penang curry with beef a focus on fermentation, cooking over cheeks and coral trout with nahm jim. fire and coastal ingredients. Think butter-poached lobster pasta, where the In Noosa, Jason Jones (ex-Mamasita whole lobster has been wrapped and Super Loco Group) and his partner in kelp and barbecued with lemon Amy Watts (ex-Super Loco Group and scented tea tree; or turbot ribs with Wine Therapy) have opened Bandita. sea parsley, grilled lettuce and capers. Overlooking the Noosa River, the wood-fired Mexican cantina is dishing up smoke-kissed dishes, such as slow-cooked lamb shoulder, Mooloolaba king prawns, pork hock and hanger steak – all perfect atop a taco. Finally, Coast Beach Bar & Kitchen has opened on Surfers Paradise Esplanade. Chef Rhett Willis has created a menu centred around a Josper oven, and the 110-seat restaurant and 160-seat bar share a 2000-bottle cellar. Clockwise from left: a spread at Loti; oysters with coconut vinegar and condiments at Loti. 16 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

News NEW SOUTH WALES Nearby in Barangaroo, Turkish chef Clockwise from top left: Tombik’s Somer Sivrioğlu has opened Tombik, dining room; Jerusalem artichokes Daniel Johnston (ex-Alberto’s Lounge) inspired by the traditional doner kebab with lardo and caviar at MoVida; has teamed up with Harry Levy (Porcine) stalls of Istanbul. Hoping to redirect the house-cured Mooloolaba albacore and Ivey Wawn (ex-Cafe Paci) to open associations of kebabs from late-night tuna with charred orange at MoVida; Fontana. Moving into Redfern’s former feed to a more sophisticated supper, fried chicken with teriyaki glaze and Ron’s Upstairs digs and reprising the it will serve puffy tombik (flatbread) pickled daikon at Edition Izakaya. vibrant, casual Italo fare that put Don with beef rump and lamb belly doner, Peppino’s on Sydney’s dining hit list accompanied by house-made sauces, back in 2019. On the menu you’ll find pickles and falafel. regional dishes – be it crisp and tender artichokes alla giudia (a Roman-Jewish The Mary’s group has ventured to style); or baccalà alla Vicentina (Vicenza- Moore Park’s Entertainment Quarter style white fish) – alongside some more to open music venue Liberty Hall, inventive dishes, such as a ’roo ragù, which will be joined by a wine and or sardine meatballs. burger bar, slinging Mary’s burgers, fried chook and vegan fried cauliflower. The Bistro Rex team has opened Enoteca Ponti, a new wine bar and INTERNATIONAL restaurant at the former Monopole site in Potts Point. Expect a blend of authentic Sydney chef Tetsuya Wakuda is set and modern Italian food and wine, plus to hit the strip, opening Wakuda at eye-catching interiors inspired by prolific The Venetian Resort Las Vegas. After Italian architect Gio Ponti. successfully exporting his restaurant concept to Singapore, Wakuda will In the CBD, two new Japanese debut a sushi-focused version of his offshoots have opened from the teams eponymous Japanese fine-dining behind Edition Coffee Roasters and Kuro. concept, which will include an eight- Edition Izakaya brings casual Japanese seat omakase, alongside a wider snacks and sake to Darling Square. menu of tempura, sushi and nigiri. While Kahii Kissaten Bistro is Kuro Bar & Dining’s Japanese-style café by day Frank Camorra of Melbourne’s and French-inspired wine bar by night. MoVida will take his winning tapas concept across the Tasman to open in Auckland’s Britomart precinct. The menu will feature signature dishes, such as white anchovy gildas and Pedro Ximénez-braised beef cheek, as well as new dishes that will highlight local produce. The restaurant will also have its very own wood-fired grill unique to its Auckland location, which will be used to cook paella. PHOTOGRAPHY STEVEN WOODBURN (TOMBIK).

Clockwise from left: a pool at Alba Thermal Springs and Spa; Karen Martini’s white chocolate brownie with pineapple and coconut caramel at Thyme; the dining room at Thyme. RIGHT ON THYME The relaxed 120-seat dining space is the perfect spot to PHOTOGRAPHY MARK CHEW. perch after treatments, while the all-day menu sees Martini The Mornington Peninsula has long been a dining destination depart from her typical European-leaning fare to deliver a for Melburnians, and now it adds another star to its roster, with lighter, brighter offering imbued with Japanese ingredients. the arrival of a new menu by Karen Martini at Thyme – the “Obviously, I cook and write recipes and eat a lot like this at restaurant at the luxurious new spa complex, Alba Thermal home, but I haven’t had the chance to put this into a commercial Springs and Spa. The world-class offering sprawls 15 hectares, space yet, so this is really quite thrilling,” says Martini. where one can replenish and recalibrate with immersive dips in geothermal pools, cold plunge pools and herbal-infused Thyme will serve guests from day to night, with a breakfast botanical pools before (or after) enjoying a nourishing spread offering that might include house-cured ocean trout gravlax made from locally grown produce. “I jumped at the opportunity,” and soft egg bagel; or a savoury Danish with Comté cream, says Martini. “I just thought how lovely it would be to be able maple bacon and thyme. “We’re also making a mighty yoghurt to have the ultimate luxurious spa experience, and then be panna cotta with buckwheat granola and blueberries with some able to dine on something quite delicious.” Peninsula honeycomb,” says Martini, who has long-standing relationships with Peninsula producers (her parents live there), which she will continue to grow. Moving to the main menu, you’ll find dishes that are worthy of a long lunch. “I’m most excited about Skull Island prawn toast, to play on your old-school Chinese restaurant prawn toast, but the prawns are definitely the hero with a shiso salad, pickled cucumber, wasabi mayo and yuzu dressing, plus I’m frying the heads to crown the toast,” says Martini. There’s also a schnitzel, crumbed with seeds in place of breadcrumbs, and a Japanese-inspired fish sandwich, with iceberg, shiso, pickled ginger and nori tartare. “I’m doing my interpretation of a Japanese rice bowl, with beautiful seasoned tuna and cucumber kimchi,” adds Martini. Plus, two Japanese-style curries, which will come served with house-made whole-wheat udon noodles. “They’re gorgeously springy and chewy, but with a little sourness.” As for the rest of the Alba experience, you can choose between dry saunas, steam rooms, Vichy showers, massages or one of 40 different spa treatment options. “The moment you walk in, it’s pretty jaw-droppingly amazing,” says Martini. “But also, there’s a sense of calm and it’s quite a beautiful thing.” albathermalsprings.com.au, 282 Browns Rd, Fingal, Vic. 18 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

News CK OF T HE CROP PHOTOGRAPHY ©WILLOW CREATIVE (SAN ELK) & FRANK YANG (FRUIT GUY). FRUITFUL EXCHANGE PI Did you know that broccoli tastes sweeter in winter after a crop’s first frost? This is just one of the curious facts Thanh Truong is sharing as the Fruit Nerd, with a growing audience of more than 20,000 followers on Instagram. Raised by a keen fruiterer father, Truong is using his family’s passion to connect communities through knowledge. His goal is to teach every Australian how to choose the best fresh produce. Truong’s advice? Use all of your senses, not just touch and smell. Ask yourself: What should it smell like? What should it sound like? Does the shiniest watermelon sound hollow? Perhaps it’s not as good as it looks. For more fruitful tips, follow @fruitnerd on Instagram. T H R E E O F A K I N D MOKA POTS STOCK MARKET 1 Alessi 1 This coffee brewer has While the best stock will always be a carefully designed internal 2 homemade, sometimes there’s no time shape (and aesthetic exterior), which automatically stops 3 for roasting bones or room in the filtering the coffee when it’s fridge for litres of broth. In this case ready, preventing any burnt ready-made stocks are the way to go, and bitter aftertaste. and San Elk’s range of new powdered $195, alessiaustralia.com.au organic stocks bolster flavour sans preservatives, filler or gluten. Packed 2 Pezzetti Italexpress Coffee Maker in eco cardboard packaging, the This Italian-made stovetop full-flavoured small-batch stocks are coffee maker is classic in its made from dehydrated organic meats design, and brews espresso in and vegetables, ideal for seasoning minutes. $99.95, kakkadu.com.au savoury dishes. $11.95, sanelk.com.au 3 Bialetti Mini Express 2 Cup A riff on the most used stovetop espresso maker in the world, this Bialetti percolator has a dual spout and cup platform and serves two espresso at a time. $79.95, alternativebrewing.com.au G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 19

SEASON’S GREETINGS Chef Tony Schifilliti started growing koji (cooked rice, grains or beans that have been inoculated with a fermentation culture) to create miso, soy sauce and garum from home back in 2020. “At first it was just for fun, and to further my knowledge as a chef, but after a few months of doing so I became obsessed,” says Schifilliti. Now Cura Seasonings is the result of these trials, a range of peppy, koji-based condiments. There’s a malty, savoury black garlic paste, which bolsters a roast chook when rubbed under the skin with butter, and an umami salt that will give oomph to anything from avocado on toast to hot chips. The seasonings are also making an appearance on menus; be it Porcine’s raw tuna with liquid mushroom shio koji; or right across Schhifilliti’s own menu at Stanmore fine-diner Sixpenny. curaseasonings.com.au QUICK FIX With lockdowns in the rearview mirror, many pandemic food trends have fizzled out – or have at least gone from a rolling boil to gentle simmer. But chef-made, finish-at-home meals are proving their staying power, with one of the country’s leading restaurant groups entering the game. Fix is a joint venture between Fink Group – whose restaurants include Quay, Bennelong, Firedoor and Otto – and Stix, a sustainability-focused caterer for businesses including Qantas (it makes the airline’s first-class meals), which also has a café in Marrickville and one to come in Hunters Hill. Fix will feature menus developed by some of Australia’s most feted chefs, including Paul Carmichael, Analiese Gregory, Peter Gilmore (pictured) and Lennox Hastie. Each has designed a range of ready-made meals, in a variety of multi-course and banquet formats. Additionally, there’ll be an offering of frozen meals, the Freezer Stash, including Analiese Gregory’s mapo tofu and Peter Gilmore’s crispy duck red curry. Then there’s the Fix store, which will sell an exclusive range of fridge and pantry products, such as Lennox Hastie’s smoked butter. fixdining.com.au BAKER’S DELIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO (FINK). Le Creuset’s latest addition to its cast iron family is a new bread baking oven. The domed lid ensures even heat circulation and distributes steam for a well risen loaf every time, while the bottom of the bread oven embosses each loaf. $540, lecreuset.com.au 20 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

News SMART TAKEAWAY Journey Beyond has launched its new Southern Wines and Wildlife rail holiday, On a mission to minimise waste, set to travel from Brisbane to Adelaide this Replated is a collection of reusable summer. Winding down the coast, the trip takeaway containers designed and takes in coastal towns, east coast cities, made in Australia from old soft drink and stunning wine regions, with stops in bottles. The recyclable containers are accepted at more than 300 food Coffs Harbour, the Hunter Valley and outlets and are dishwasher and Kangaroo Island. From $6280, microwave safe. $20, replated.co journeybeyondrail.com.au O N T H E PA S S with ROB LECHOWICZ, BLACKWOOD BONDI One chef you trained under was Tony Bilson. How would you describe your cooking style now? I would definitely describe my style as eclectic, stemming from a strong foundation of classic French technique but also influenced heavily by Mediterranean flavours. Australian breakfast culture is renowned around the world – what makes it so well loved? Aussie breakfast menus are vast, colourful and abundant, not to mention delicious. Our breakfasts become the hero meal of the day, and with such great local produce and ingredients at our disposal in Australia it gives chefs an amazing platform to create menus. On top of this I think we Aussies know how to make breakfast fun. For breakfast, do you opt for sweet or savoury? That’s a tough one, why not both? In many ways my approach has always been to provide a menu that bridges the gap between café and restaurant. Just as you would start with a savoury dish in a restaurant and finish on dessert, you can brunch on a savoury item, and finish off by sharing our blueberry and ricotta hotcakes. Finally eggs – poached, scrambled or fried? I’m going to go with scrambled. There is an art to good scrambled eggs and maybe that’s why they are my go-to. I’ve spent a lot of time perfecting the recipe for our scrambled eggs to get them just right, also making sure the staff know how to prepare and cook them correctly on the day. 3/87-89 Glenayr Ave, Bondi Beach, NSW, blackwoodhospitality.com.au G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 21

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A Gourmet Traveller promotion Grilled Akoya with a bush tomato XO sauce JEWELS OF THE SEA Chef-owner, Tristan Rosier and head chef, Three Sydney restaurants lead the way in Will Lawson, Arthur celebrating Western Australia’s ocean treasure, “It’s really exciting to be working with something unique the Leeuwin Coast Akoya, for its versatility – the Akoya allows us to be creative and inventive. and unique umami flavour. Diners are intrigued by it and receptive to trying it.” ARTHUR Since it opened in Surry Hills in 2018, Arthur has showcased the best Australian produce at its degustation-only restaurant. Chef-owner Tristan Rosier’s creative direction is as clear as his focus on seasonal produce. The Leeuwin Coast Akoya perfectly fits his Australian-focused vision. Grown sustainably in Western Australia’s pristine waters of Albany, the Akoya is grown solely for culinary purposes. With its unique flavour, the umami taste of the Akoya has Rosier and diners intrigued. “It’s similar to an oyster, but the texture is quite creamy with a firmness, thanks to the adductor muscle,” says Rosier. In keeping with its all-Australian theme, Rosier has created a grilled Akoya with a bush tomato XO sauce. “The dish speaks to the sustainability of the Akoya – repurposing the cuts from our seafood to create the sauce creates a nice dish narrative.”

BAY NINE OMAKASE Bay Nine Omakase is the crowning glory of the newly refurbished Campbell’s Stores dining precinct in The Rocks on Sydney harbour. Helmed by chefs Maria Sheslow and Yul Kim, Bay Nine’s omakase-style dining is the perfect platform to explore new and unique Maria Sheslow, flavour profiles like the Leeuwin Coast Akoya. Bay Nine Traditional omakase utilises the freshest Omakase produce sourced daily and prepared to an “I think it’s wonderful exacting standard. At Bay Nine, Sheslow leads to have something the hot kitchen while Kim runs the cold so different and kitchen and together they produce omakase versatile. You can dishes accompanied by a sake pairing to make do so much with it, the experience a memorable culinary journey. it’s a great alternative to an oyster and is The Akoya’s versatility and delicate flavour wonderful to work work so well for Bay Nine that the chefs have with. The Akoya created three dishes that hero this unique is punchy with ingredient. Guests can choose a poached a flavour profile that Akoya with ponzu, fresh yuzu zest, sea grapes really reflects its and salmon roe or a slow-cooked short rib provenance” with teriyaki sauce, smoked Akoya emulsion, fresh truffle, renkon crisp and rocket or tempura Akoya with pepperberry, wasabi yoghurt, yukari lemon wedge and seablite. “The flavours are bold and robust and the more you cook it the more delicate it gets,” says Sheslow. Poached Akoya with ponzu, fresh yuzu BORONIA KITCHEN zest, sea grapes and salmon roe Chef Simon Sandall knows how important it is to keep things fresh and creative in the kitchen especially when it comes to using new Smoked Akoya, pomelo ingredients like the Leeuwin Coast Akoya. The Ex-Aria Head Chef and ponzu is excited to introduce the Akoya to the menu at his beloved Hunters Hill eatery, Boronia Kitchen, and welcomes the prospect of working with such a versatile ingredient. “It’s very rare that something like this comes to the market and should be embraced – it’s a fantastic product that’s so versatile,” says Sandall. at his Hunters Hill eatery, Boronia Kitchen, and welcomes the prospect of working with such a versatile ingredient. “It’s very rare that something like this comes to the market and should be embraced – it’s a fantastic product that’s so versatile,” says Sandall. The Akoya, Chef Simon Australia’s first certified carbon-neutral aquaculture product, Sandall, can be served in a number of ways whether raw, cured, Boronia Kitchen poached, steamed, grilled or deep-fried. Its versatility is a “It is unique – the best drawcard for both chefs and diners. “It can be used with way to describe the delicate flavours but will also stand up to bold flavours, Akoya is an oyster, while still holding its integrity,” says Sandall. mussel and a scallop He offers two dishes that highlight both the Akoya’s versatility and married in one single unique flavour profile and also complement the neighbourhood mouthful.” eatery’s seasonal menu. Guests can dine on Akoya, apple and Kampot pepper with garden herbs or smoked Akoya, pomelo and ponzu.

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Five of a kind Bacon Take your breakfast to sizzling new heights with a rasher or three of these cured delights. 4 2 5 3 WORDS JORDAN KRETCHMER. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING EMMALY STEWART. 1 GT TEAM FA VOURITE 1. GOODWOOD QUALITY 2. KUROBUTA PORK 3. SAUCISSONS 4. BOKS BACON DRY 5. UNCLE’S MEATS DRY BOX BACON X LP’S QUALITY AUSTRALIA FREE CURED COLD SMOKED SMALLGOODS A smoky, pumpkin-sweet MEATS DRY CURED RANGE SHORT LOIN STREAKY BACON TRADITIONAL flavour cuts through this wonderful piece of cured AND SMOKED SMOKED BACON This beautifully marbled WOODSMOKED BACON meat, the result of being rasher renders down STREAKY BACON If you’re after a versatile nicely to a crisp wafer Celery, rosemary, honey smoked with both short-cut bacon, this and Australian hardwood beechwood and redgum. The glorious fat ratio on iteration offers a nice all the while maintaining smoke are used to cure this finely sliced and subtly render, a good texture a bold smoky-salty flavour, this bacon, resulting in an The thicker rind-on cut and an even cook. which is achieved during intensely flavoured rasher. makes it ideal for smoked bacon makes it Cured in-house by an ideal candidate for French smallgoods the dry-curing process. This streaky cut gets oven-cooking rather than carbonara. There’s also makers Saucissons The taste and texture extra points for maintaining pan-frying and would a sweetness to it, which Australia, this bacon is of this bacon makes it be the hero in a BLT or would work nicely with a reliable and tasty ideal for crumbling over its shape on cooking, waffles and maple syrup breakfast banger. a chicken Caesar salad and possesses classic bacon and egg roll. or other adventurous $10 for 250gm, or bowl of pumpkin soup. $34.99 for 1kg, salty-sweet combinations. saucissons.com.au a balanced sweet-and- $9.99 for 180gm, salty flavour profile. goodwoodqualitymeats. $27.50 for 500gm, harrisfarm.com.au $8.95 for 150gm, com.au vicsmeat.com.au unclessmallgoods.com G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 27

QUICK W ORD WITH DEBORAHA SAMS The co-founder of iconic fashion brand Bassike on packing tips, morning chai and Friday night dinners. Interview HANNAH ROSE YEE I grew up at Whale Beach. In my 20s and 30s I lived in the east [of Sydney] and in my early 30s I moved back to Avalon and have lived there ever since with my husband and my son. It’s so beautiful, you have nature at your doorstep. We’re beach people and we have water all around us. There’s some great little holes in the wall on the northern beaches. There’s a place called Queen Ester Falafel, which opened recently. It’s a really small menu of Israeli street food and it’s just amazing. 28 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Memories INTERVIEW HANNAH-ROSE YEE. PHOTOGRAPHY PRUE RUSCOE. I think Sydney has one of the best restaurant scenes I like honest, simple food, in the world. I like honest, simple food, I don’t like I don’t like Michelin-starred Michelin-starred dining – that’s not my thing. Apollo dining – that’s not my thing. would be my number one, and Fred’s and Beppi’s. Apollo would be my number one, and Fred’s and Beppi’s. We are a breakfast family. In winter, the sun comes into the house and we sit and have breakfast. Then Rome is one of my favourite cities… It’s like an it’s soccer and lunch. In the afternoon, we light a fire outdoor museum. We usually just walk around, you and chill. In summer, we get to the beach early and get all the layers of the history and the stories behind then hang out in the house. the different archaeological sites. I’m often travelling with my family, so I think for kids to be able to be I’m lucky because my husband does most of the outside, walking and really understanding the history cooking, and he’s a really good cook, simple food of humanity and where it all came from, is important. with good ingredients. He does a really great Bistecca Fiorentina with rocket and parmesan salad Before the pandemic, I travelled to Japan two or and roast potatoes. We eat Moroccan-style tagines, three times a year. We have a denim factory in the lots of barbecues and fish. We like to shop local and south and I get so much inspiration from Japan. I did support the local butcher, the local fruit and veg shop, Japanese at school and university and it feels like it’s the local organic bakery. I’m really conscious of part of me. The whole experience of that country, supporting local businesses because Bassike is also and their connection to design, I really love. a local brand, and it’s good to keep the money and support in the community. My packing tip would be don’t overpack – but I’m an overpacker. I always take an extra duffel, there’s Every year I go to Italy. We produce most of our a great store in Tokyo called Tokyu Hands and they fabrics out of Tuscany, so I spend most of my time in have a luggage section with these totes that fold Florence and then at the end I usually tack on a week up into the size of an envelope. Always a great tip to have a little holiday… My favourite hotel in the world if you’re going to shop – or you can put your dirty is Hotel Santa Caterina on the Amalfi Coast. It’s run clothes in it. by a fourth generation family. It has an amazing pool deck that is right on the sea, and an incredible lift I’m definitely an overpacker. I can’t stand being that takes you down. It’s super special and we’re underprepared and working in fashion I love a good kind of like family there. outfit. Our brand is designed for travel: great jersey pieces, light cotton shirting, a few pairs of pants. Some of the best memories I have are of walking I always take a nice trench for the plane, because around Amalfi, eating gelato, with my husband and I think it can cover up any sins. You can put your son and friends, having casual dinners on the water. beautiful crepe trench on as you get off the plane That’s the best night for me. There’s a beautiful and you always look semi-okay. That’s my best tip! ● seafood restaurant called Lido Azzurro down on the water. The owner’s name is Antonio and his wife is G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 29 Simona and they’re wonderfully welcoming and the food is amazing.

THE KITCHEN GARDENER ILLUSTRATION ADOBE STOCK IMAGES. Artichokes In early spring, when the kitchen garden is bare, the globe artichoke rises to the moment to fill the hungry gap, writes SIMON RICKARD. L ast spring, I wrote about the phenomenon gardeners call the “hungry gap”; that time in spring when the birds are singing, the sun is shining, but the vegetable garden is bare. Winter veggies have all finished, but summer crops have not yet come on. We are compensated for this hiccup in the harvest schedule by the brief appearance of a few special treats. One is the globe artichoke. Not to be confused with its distant cousin the Jerusalem artichoke, which is a root vegetable, the globe artichoke resembles a small, fleshy cabbage. It is a member of the daisy family, related to lettuce, radicchio, and the Australian native yam daisy, which has been a staple of southern Australian Indigenous diets since time immemorial. Artichokes grow wild on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. Their buds are brutally thorny, and relatively small. The fat, unarmed artichokes we know today were probably developed in North Africa and Muslim Spain during medieval times. The artichoke is a kind of giant thistle. Its metre-long leaves are metallic silver. They are beautifully ragged, almost fern-like in

Grow your own Artichoke buds contain a chemical called cynarine, which gives an odd saccharin flavour to food and wine consumed with it. Simon is a appearance. They form a mounding rosette purple buds, and “Green Globe”, a French variety professional issuing from a short woody trunk, as thick as with very large, round central buds suitable for your arm. These impressive silver mounds look stuffing. Artichokes are typically propagated by gardener, very striking in the ornamental garden. seed. A proportion of seedlings in each batch will author and revert to the thorny wild type. Throw those ones In spring, each plant sends up a thick stem out, and keep only the best thornless seedlings. baroque rising to two metres in height, topped with flower These can be divided from their second year to bassoonist. heads. These flower heads are typical of thistles. maintain a good thornless population. Most @simon_rickard There are no colourful “petals”, just a cluster artichoke varieties take two years to produce their of green bracts, filled with a shock of glowing, first crop from seed. However, the new variety ultraviolet blue “filaments”. Each filament is “Imperial Star” crops in its first year, so it can be attached to a tiny, individual flower at its base, grown as an annual. clustered together to form dense flower heads. The open heads can be the size of a pudding Artichokes require a lot of room in the garden basin. Bees love them. Each head can – each plant requires a good square metre to itself. accommodate several bees at once, frenziedly Don’t grow them alongside more delicate crops; collecting the copious pollen. they will get swamped. Artichokes are best grown with other perennial vegetable crops, such as We rarely get to enjoy the spectacular blue asparagus and rhubarb. They only produce for flowers, however, because we harvest them a few weeks per year, but their appearance during before they open, as tight green buds. Each bud the hungry gap makes them very welcome. ● is composed of leathery, inedible outer leaves, enclosing tender, edible inner leaves, surrounding the “heart”, which is the succulent “pincushion” upon which the needle-like blue flowers would later appear. The central bud on each flower stem is the biggest. These big buds can be served whole, as an entrée. Each plant only produces one such bud. Surrounding it are many smaller, secondary and tertiary buds, which are used for preserving. Artichoke buds contain a chemical called cynarine, which gives an odd saccharin flavour to food and wine consumed with it. The plant’s sap is extremely bitter, lending the Italian aperitif Cynar its kick. There are different strains of artichoke, such as “Violetta di Chioggia”, an Italian variety with long, G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 31

Artist and activist Sally Scales with her son Walter and niece Ameeka. S A L LY SCALES Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we meet activist and artist, Sally Scales. I feel extremely I t’s morning on Kaurna land (Adelaide) and Sally Scales is privileged to have dialling in with a wake-up call for us all. “We can do more. connected with artist We can have deeper conversations; lean in harder.” Scales is and activist Sally an artist and an activist, a proud Pitjantjatjara woman from Scales (APY), a dear Pipalyatjara in South Australia’s remote Anangu Pitjantjatjara friend and young Yankunytjatjara (APY) Lands and a mother to six-year-old Walter, mentor, who smiles who mills around as she speaks.“I can’t believe we still have youth directly from her heart. Sally radiates detention centres. I can’t believe we are still in that space. It’s not just deep, ancient wisdom and respect, the Uluru Statement. It is but it isn’t. We must start asking what we through her art practice and the way stand for as a nation.” she communicates and educates on the nation building project, Uluru Eloquent and assured, Scales plays the part of the morning ray Statement From The Heart. that reveals the darkness we’ve attuned to. And through her role on the Uluru Statement from the Heart leadership team and previous post 32 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R as chairperson of the APY Executive Board Council she shines her light on the need for a more inclusive Australia, stirring us from sleep.

Our conversation takes place the day the Prime Minister announced the first steps towards the referendum to acknowlege First Nations people in Australia’s Constitution. This comes after Anthony Albanese promised to realise the Uluru Statement in full during his election night victory speech. Scales says, “We are at a tipping point in our country. But this is not a new ask. First Nations people have been asking to have a say in their At 31, Scales has already spent 15 years working communities for a long time.” with the APY Art Centre Collective, playing a part To recap, the Uluru Statement has three main in the opening of three commercial galleries and sequences: Voice, Treaty, Truth. It starts with the helping its artists rise to international recognition. call for a constitution-sanctioned voice to She has seen, first-hand, the power of art as a force parliament, which would give Indigenous people for change. “We’re supporting artists from remote a seat at the table. “Treaty” sets a framework in communities to have meaningful lives; making sure place for reconciliation negotiations and “Truth” young people are supported; and Elders are asks for an honest retelling of supported.” Indigenous art Australian history or “the “A vote [on the Indigenous has come a long way since good, the bad, and the ugly”, voice to parliament] is Scale’s Elders were repeatedly as Scales says. “It’s how these our chance to leave told, “no” and “you can’t” by lines were made.” naysayers and non-believers. The statement is not an us Australia a better place These days, the conversation against them situation but for our children. We’ve has shifted to admiration and rather an invitation to walk done the work. Now we esteem. “Aboriginal ambition together, as Scales says. “This was a weird construct for is a chance for all Australians need the support.” some people, but my Elders to use their collective voices. went for it. They didn’t I think that’s what we’ve forgotten; it’s a civic allow the status quo to box them in,” she says. And responsibility.” Thanks to recent campaigning, the now, Scales is part of referendum on the Uluru Statement is likely to be a generation that is embraced by the art world. held in early 2023, which hands over the power, “The fact I can exhibit my own show in a gallery and the thrill of making history, to the people. “A started by my Elders is just amazing,” she says. vote is our chance to leave Australia a better place “I really am a product of my Elders.” for our children,” she says. “We’ve done the work. Scales only started producing her own art in Now we need the support.” late 2020 when the Covid shutdown gave her the WORDS ANNA MCCOOE (MAIN) & KYLIE KWONG (INTRO). Scales is the child of a non-Indigenous father time to paint. “I say I did a 15-year internship,” she PHOTOGRAPHY MEG HANSEN (SCALES) & MARK POKORNY (KWONG). and an Aboriginal mother. She grew up in remote quips. But the newcomer has already taken out the Australia but was educated in Alice Springs and People’s Choice Award at the 2021 Telstra Adelaide. Living in both worlds, she was instilled National Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Art with the responsibility to use her language abilities Awards, and the 2022 Roberts Family Prize. She is to bridge the communication divide. But it was also the subject of Tsering Hannaford’s Archibald through art that she stepped into her power. Prize finalist painting, where she is captured in “When I was 15, I’d go into the Art Centres in the a paint-spattered Uluru Statement From The Heart school holidays and see all my nanas and aunties. T-shirt, with Walter’s hand reaching up to her. And that’s when I started using my language to Walter hears his name as his cue to join the call. make sure their needs were being heard.” And she And its with a few of his six-year-old antics that we never stopped. move towards Scale’s hope for his future. “I want a more inclusive world; a world that embraces all cultures, ideas, and conversations. We can get where we need to go if we continue to educate each other.” And that’s an awakening we can all rise to. ● G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 33

Margaret River, Western Australia The south-west coast leads the way in defying inclement weather conditions with its sustainable biodynamic winemaking, writes SAMANTHA PAYNE. Samantha is T here is no denying destructive weather from a long line of climate advocates. “It’s come a sommelier, patterns across the country have affected from an ancestral energy, which cares about the writer and wine farming. Winemakers are not immune to land. A lineage who fought for human rights and the impacts of climate change and have the environment,” says Cullen.“We grew up fighting consultant. adopted methods to combat this, from changing bauxite mining on the cape in Margaret River. My @sl_payne which grapes are planted where, to planting more parents fought to save Lake Pedder in Tasmania.” resilient varieties and adopting agricultural practices to withstand the rougher seasons. She describes how this history is woven through Cullen’s biodynamic agricultural practices. “Mum A benchmark example of a region adopting found Hungarian shipmast locust trees and planted sustainable viticultural practices is the Margaret them as possible replacements for chopping down River, 270 kilometres south of Perth and home jarrah trees for vineyard posts,” she says. “[We have] to some iconic biodynamic and organic wineries. endless examples of living for and with the environment and connecting to country as the Heralded as the “high priestess of biodynamics” Wadandi say. It was inevitable that this started in Australia, Vanya Cullen of Cullen Wines comes 34 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

ARET RIVER Wine country Cape TE OF MARGARET Naturaliste MARG 2021 Voyager Estate Chenin Blanc, $22 Blind Corner RIVERWith heritage vines from the original 1978 plantings A TASOrganic Wineryon the Voyager Estate property, this chenin blanc is easily the most refined version the certified organic Cullen Wines winery has ever produced. The wine is vibrant and PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING HOLLY DORAN. Burnside Organic Farm textural with hints of apricot and elderflower – a perfect accompaniment to sea bass on coals. Margaret River Town Dormilona voyagerestate.com.au Voyager Estate 2021 Blind Corner Chardonnay Aligoté, $50 Certified organic and biodynamic chardonnay is and continues with minimal chemical inputs. We are organic, slowly being grafted into the French variety aligoté biodynamic and carbon positive. We concentrate on emissions (or “poor man’s Burgundy”) to create a medium- reduction and offset emissions through carbon sequestration.” bodied, citrus-driven style of white wine. The Josephine Perry from Dormilona is Margaret River born aligoté brings bright and lively notes to the and bred. “It was almost like I had a homing beacon that chardonnay’s more rounded stone-fruit qualities. I had to come back here,” says Perry. And because of this love of home, Perry sees how the land here suits these practices blindcorner.com.au compared to other regions. 2021 Dormilona Cabernet Sauvignon, $50 “The vineyards handle the climate changes better because From a completely dry-grown organic block of fruit of these sustainable organic practices. It works better in in Yallingup comes an elegant example of Margaret Margaret River because of the maritime climate. The vineyards that sit higher with a northern aspect combined with these River cabernet. Expressing a purity of fruit sustainable practices are the ones that flourish through the alongside cabernet’s traditional grippy tannins, tougher seasons.” you’ll want another glass to wash down Perry’s winery was certified organic in 2017. “Sustainability a char-grilled tomahawk steak. and organics have always been of interest – everyone’s eating dormilona.com.au and drinking better and being more conscious,” she says. 2021 Cullen Wines Mangan East Block But it’s not just family-owned and -operated or small-scale Malbec Petit Verdot, $55 wineries adopting organic or biodynamic viticultural techniques. Voyager Estate, which processes 500 tonnes of This blend is comprised of 59 per cent malbec fruit a season (or 30,000 cases of wine) from its 335-hectare and 41 per cent petit verdot from the certified estate, will emerge from organic conversion into certification biodynamic and carbon-neutral Mangan vineyard. in 2023, with most blocks from the original 1978 vines already True to the Cullen ethos, the malbec was harvested converted to organic practices. Glen Ryan, vineyard manager on a fruit day and the petit verdot on a full moon for Voyager, explains that it was a positive shift starting in flower day to enhance the energy of the wine. 2017 to convert to organic farming practices. “It’s a company choice, you either do it or not but you need to believe in it,” cullenwines.com.au he says. And it’s starting to reap rewards. Voyager’s wettest November was 2020. Thanks to the organic preparations and 2018 Burnside Organic Farm conversions, the vineyard was in fantastic shape coming into Reserve Zinfandel, $65 the 2021 vintage. Only in outstanding years does the McCall family Cullen and Perry agree that the wines benefit from these produce a “reserve” version of its much-loved practices. “The wines are complex with a pure line of taste to the land. No additions except sulphur dioxide and some zinfandel from its organic vineyards and 2018 was bentonite; all adding texture and interest to the wine.” ● one such year. Wild mulberry and fruits of the Margaret River wine region sits on the traditional land forest meet with darker, earthier spices to create of the Wadandi (Saltwater People), one of 14 Noongar a heady, medium-bodied plush red wine. people who are the traditional custodians of south-west burnsideorganicfarm.com.au Western Australia. The Noongar refer to their land as Noongar boodja and the Wadandi have a connection G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 35 with the river and seas, expressed in songs and stories.

Cocktail hour MICHELADA La Cabaña’s Michelada W hen it comes to chasing the To make sangrita, combine 90ml freshly squeezed orange hair of the dog, some people juice, 60ml freshly squeezed lime juice and 30ml tomato swear by bubbles – a Spritz, juice. Rim a chilled highball with lime juice and chilli salt, Champagne or an ice-cold such as Tajín Clásico. Add 70ml sangrita to the glass and beer. Then there are others who believe the fill with ice. Top up with the beer of your choice and stir cure lies in something more substantial, like lightly to combine. Garnish with a fresh lime wedge. Add an Espresso Martini or the almighty Bloody a few dashes of hot sauce, such as Tapatío or Cholula, Mary. Those limbering up for a long brunch, according to your desired spice level, and salt to taste. in search of a way to bring together some of columns A and B, might want to consider the Michelada. The drink hails from Mexico, where it’s known as a “cerveza preparada” – less a specific beverage than an entire category, comprising beer (usually an everyday lager) mixed with fresh citrus, salt and other ingredients. What designates a Michelada is the use of hot sauce. Purists might stick to just a few ingredients, while others often employ the likes of tomato or Clamato juice, as well as Worcestershire sauce or Maggi Seasoning to ratchet up the intensity. Louise Maccallum, bar manager at buzzy taqueria La Cabaña in South Fremantle, Western Australia, meets somewhere in the middle by adding sangrita, the spicy juice often served as a sidecar with shots of tequila. “Fresh ingredients make all the difference,” she says, “and the combination of orange and lime juice really adds to the flavour punch.” For weekly cocktail inspiration, follow us on Instagram @gourmettraveller 3ERS TO TRYTHREE BE PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING EMMALY STEWART.TecatePacifico ClaraModelo Especial If there’s one crisp, Brewed in the port city The light hoppiness clean and sessionable of Mazatlán, Pacifico and malty character big-name cerveza more captures the sunny of this popular pilsner geared to Micheladas flavours of Mexico’s easily stand up to the than all the rest, it has west coast in all their richness and depth to be Tecate. citrusy, grassy glory. of tomato. $49.99 for 24 x 355ml $79.99 for 24 x 355ml $65 for 24 x 355ml hairydog.com.au shortysliquor.com.au danmurphys.com.au 36 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

A Gourmet Traveller Partner Event Sergio Perera, El Bulli, and Nobuyuki Ura, Ora, Sydney TICKETS ON SALE NOW Matt Stone, Will Cowper, Scott Lord, Ciao Otto Brisbane New Quarter MEET THE EVENTS ARTISTS SYDNEY: Enjoy an intimate curated dining series set inspired by art as INSPIRED BY AVANT GARDE Winning Appliances showcases their Culinary Arts Series, with notable chefs creating multi-sensory masterpieces on the plate TUESDAY 2 AUGUST CHEFS: SERGIO PERERA (EL BULLI) For artistic inspiration and an intimate epicurean experience, take a seat at the AND NOBUYUKI URA (ORA, SYDNEY) table for The Culinary Arts Series. Over five consecutive weeks notable chefs from around the country will create their own unique perspective on edible art. CANBERRA: The gourmet menus feature complementary beverage stories created by a master INSPIRED BY CUBISM sommelier from fine wine connoisseurs Langton’s. The culinary masterpieces will TUESDAY 9 AUGUST be served in the heart of Winning Appliance showrooms, dishing up plenty of CHEF: SERGIO PERERA inspiration for living well from the centre and soul of the home. It’s fine fare meets fine art meets fine wine – and you’ll have fine company to enjoy it with, (EL BULLI) too, sharing the experience with select Gourmet Traveller representatives. BRISBANE: Each week features food that reflects the culture of an art movement and the INSPIRED BY ART DECO chef's own ethos. Enjoy an avant-garde interpretation of Japanese/Spanish fusion WEDNESDAY 17 AUGUST with Sergio Perera of El Bulli and Nobuyuki Ura of Ora. Explore cubism with Sergio Perera, and art deco with Will Cowper of Otto Brisbane. Matt Stone, CHEF: WILL COWPER Australia’s leading sustainable chef, reflects bauhaus styling in his clean menu, while (OTTO, BRISBANE) expressionism comes to life in New Quarter chef Scott Lord’s Melburnian cuisine. PERTH: TICKETS AND EVENT DETAILS INSPIRED BY BAUHAUS WEDNESDAY 24 AUGUST TO BOOK: To book your seat at the table for this exclusive and intimate artistic dining experience, scan the QR code. CHEF: MATT STONE PRICE: $220 per person, featuring a curated three-course menu (CIAO, MATE!) with paired wines and champagne, and inspiration aplenty. MELBOURNE: INSPIRED BY EXPRESSIONISM THURSDAY 1 SEPTEMBER CHEF: SCOTT LORD (NEW QUARTER) BROUGHT TO YOU BY:



Odd Culture p44 PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO. Dining out This month, we explore exciting Filipino dishes at Melbourne’s Serai and Matt Stone’s Bangalow trattoria fare. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 39

Clockwise from left: wood-fired chicken, banana ketchup glaze and achara; Ube Wan Kenobi cocktail; chef Ross Magnaye. E NEWCOMTH K UICK LOO QER Melbourne, 7 Racing Club La, Vic PHOTOGRAPHY JANA LANGHORST. Melbourne, Vic seraikitchen.com.au SERAI OPENING HOURS Ross Magnaye’s modern Filipino restaurant is a bold Lunch and dinner Tue-Sat newcomer to Melbourne, writes MICHAEL HARDEN. CHEF Ross Magnaye Filipino food is finally achieving Magnaye previously brought some traction in Melbourne some Pinoy to Melbourne at Rice PRICE GUIDE $$$ and, if places like Serai are Paper Scissors, but what he’s doing at a shape of things to come, it can’t Serai is next level and more focused: BOOKINGS happen fast enough. Perhaps it’s the big flavours, bold combinations, Recommended. multiple influences that delayed its clever updates on traditional dishes, local arrival. The Philippines’ distinct a sense of wit, style and good VERDICT Melbourne- and varied Indigenous cuisine has old-fashioned rock ’n’ roll swagger. Filipino food gets been joined over the centuries with modern. flavours from Spain and Portugal, Can we make some noise for Japan, China, the United States and the McScallop? A cult-in-the-making, pineapple, a curry sauce flavoured Malaysia and, to that broad palette, single-bite burger, the pandesal bun with burnt coconut and topped with is added a food culture unafraid to stuffed with a fried Abrolhos scallop, a salty tapioca “caviar”. mix and match. ribbons of pickled papaya and crab-fat sauce. Or how about And while we’re talking pineapple, It might be a little hard to define calamari, quickly slapped on the pay special attention to the fruit on from a non-Filipino perspective but grill before being tossed in a mix of Serai’s menu. Magnaye knows how to that palette and that fearlessness in longanissa (a trad Filipino sausage) get the balance right whether you’re the hands of an ingenious chef like and ’nduja, the whole dish alive with talking a spice-rubbed pork belly Ross Magnaye in a stripped back flavours of shrimp paste and chilli, served with a gloriously sweet, salty, laneway dining room in Melbourne’s lemongrass and paprika. Or Magnaye’s smoky pineapple palapa or the “Pinoy CBD, has given us a modern Filipino take on selat lumpia, the traditional Colada”, a Splice-like combination of restaurant that counts as one of this Filipino spring roll, reinterpreted here pineapple and coconut ice-cream, year’s genuinely exciting openings. as a little tart filled with smoked served on a stick. All of this happens in a repurposed ice-cream shop down a lane, stripped back to its concrete essentials then kitted out with an open kitchen (complete with wood grill) and a bar where fabulous theme-appropriate cocktails (try the Pakwan Two Three, a savoury beauty with sesame oil washed tequila and mezcal at its foundation) rub shoulders with an ever-changing list of easily quaffable, minimal intervention wine. The volume’s turned up but not to invasive levels, more good time party vibe than permanent ear damage. If Filipino food was ever ready for its Melbourne close-up, Serai has made that time now. More please. ● 40 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Review Clockwise: UICK LOO the wine bar; Otherness 38 Murray St, Angaston, SA Bagatelle Rosé; otherness.com.au roasted baby beetroot with OPENING HOURS walnut aillade Dinner Thur-Sat; and orange. Lunch Thur-Mon THE Q K ION CHEF Sam Smith DESTINAT PRICE GUIDE $$ BOOKINGS Recommended. Angaston, VERDICT SA Wine royalty and community collide. OTHERNESS and San Francisco’s Tartine Bakery A new Barossa wine bar serves elegant dishes that and MH Bread and Butter. Wedges of country loaf with The Dairyman Barossa perfectly pair with its own wine and other top South butter are testament to her training. Music plays an important role here, Australian drops, writes KATIE SPAIN. too. Dickson is an orchestra musician and takes the playlist seriously. Salumi from Parma Handcrafted Cured Meat When hospitality veteran They are available here, alongside arrives to a backdrop of Fred Astaire’s Grant Dickson decided a carefully curated list that spans the “Puttin’ on the Ritz”, Olasagasti anchovies with salted kohlrabi and to open his own bar and globe. Choose from approximately lemon thyme are accompanied by cellar door in the quaint Barossa town 20 by the glass and bottles aplenty – the sound of Édith Piaf’s “Non, Je ne of Angaston, a restaurant was never all of which are available for dine-in or Regrette Rien”, and “Cheek to Cheek” part of the plan. Of that, Dickson was takeaway (at $15 off the list price if you by Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong adamant. After years in the industry want to grab and run). It’s extraordinary heightens the comfort factor delivered (he ran acclaimed Barossa restaurant value and testament to Dickson’s by smoked Coorong mullet fillets atop FermentAsian where he curated the devotion to the local community. celeriac and caraway seeds. award-winning wine list) he wanted to Australian wines receive healthy Menu items change regularly and take the formality out of food and offer representation, as does Europe. After the clientele reflects what’s on the a menu that was elegant, fresh, simple, all, this is a wine region and wine plate; usually because they grew it. and easy for bar staff to serve. industry folk like to drink far and wide. Grilled artichokes atop ajo blanco were When Barossa-based Sam Smith During the day, natural light floods sourced from a farm in Angle Vale (ex-Fino Seppeltsfield) heard Dickson’s the space. Bench seating offers a view (where artichokes are planted between PHOTOGRAPHY SAM SMITH. plan, it resonated. Smith needed over the main street, while the dining almond trees), Hutton Vale Farm lamb a change, and here we are today. area is dotted with tables and a chorus is from down the road, and Angaston’s Dickson is a knowledgeable sort. of conversation. Gully Gardens dried fruit feature He recently launched premium micro The large kitchen space is shared throughout. Service happens across wine brand Otherness Wines and with inhouse baker Sarah Voigt a marble benchtop and as planned, makes the range in collab with some (Breaking Bread) who honed her skills affable front-of-house staff help out. of South Australia’s top winemakers. at New York’s Blue Hill At Stone Barns, A well-tuned orchestra indeed. ● G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 41

Linographs by Allie Webb line the walls. Clockwise from right: prawn, ’nduja and gremolata pizza; chef Matt Stone. Opposite: the dining room at Ciao, Mate! UICK LOO T K QH 33 Byron St, Bangalow, NSW PHOTOGRAPHY JESS KEARNEY (STONE) & ELISE HASSEY.ciaomate.com.au CHEF Matt Stone with verdant pistachio OPENING HOURS pesto and pizza-crust crumb, Dinner Wed-Mon; octopus and locally made ’nduja sofrito, or whatever Lunch Sat-Sun else seasonality, local producers and whim PRICE GUIDE $$ BOOKINGS Recommended. HE REFRES VERDICT Bending might inspire. Italian traditions for Old-school Italian and Bangalow, NSW a good time. new-school Australian wines rule the succinct wine list, CIAO, MATE! lubricating a communal spirit that can lead to valuable intel: like a neighbouring table suggesting I order a serve of the boozy tiramisù Matt Stone puts his signature on old-school Italian at at the beginning of the meal lest this Bangalow trattoria, writes TRISTAN LUTZE. the kitchen run out before I get the chance to score my own. Buzzing from the amaro and (pre-ordered) tiramisù closer, and stepping back into the balmy, Stepping into the tight, booth- salami and mozzarella meet quiet Hinterlands night, it’s easy lined Ciao Mate dining room habanero-infused honey, and chunks to see why Stone was drawn to the is like wandering into the kind of potato and translucent slivers relaxed joyfulness of Byron and its of candle-lit Roman eatery you might of guanciale sit on a slick of hinterland. It’s a place that marries jostle with locals for a table in; macadamia cream, all heaped on perfectly with those tenets of checkerboard tiles, Italian tomato a 36-hour fermented dough base convivial Italian hospitality. A place tins stacked on benches, linographs and charred in the wood-burning where you can say “ciao mate”. ● of epicurean bacchanals by Sydney oven to blistering effect. artist Allie Webb lining the walls. Head chef Matt Stone might be The journey starts, under a poster boy for the zero-waste advisement from my enthusiastic and movement, but here his fermenting brushed-up waiter, with a cocktail and curing wizardry is more subdued from the list of classics and a few than previous postings, the menu snacks; warm focaccia sopping up instead serving as an Italianised oozy Byron Bay stracciatella topped showcase of his new Northern Rivers with turmeric zucchini pickles and home. It’s an ode exemplified in the a sprinkling of pine nuts, or a pair daily pasta line-up; conchiglie, creste of Ortiz anchovies, one pickled, the di gallo and other obscure shapes other salt-cured. Then it’s onto the shuttled in from Woodland Valley pizza, where familiar toppings like Farm 30 minutes away and tossed 42 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Review

Review TH UICK LOO Q K 266 King St, ER Newtown, NSW oddculture.group/venue/ odd-culture-newtown/ OPENING HOURS Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily CHEFS James MacDonald and Jesse Warkentin. E NEWCOM PRICE GUIDE $$ Clockwise from left: Odd Culture; steak Newtown, BOOKINGS Walk-ins and eggs with tomato NSW for breakfast and lunch; salad and fermented recommended for dinner. red pepper butter. VERDICT Hangover cure-strength breakfasts in a pub-style setting. believes to be the greatest bacon ODD CULTURE sarnie on earth – one he tried at the legendary St. John in London. The Forget smashed avos or açai bowls; the breakfast at Odd Culture version takes a U-turn this day-and-night bar and restaurant packs a tough out of the UK to Japan, with a thick slick of tonkatsu sauce instead of punch, writes ALEXANDRA CARLTON. the classic English brown. Drinks-wise, there are all the usual teas and coffees – the latter supplied by local roasters Mecca – but you won’t find anyone whizzing up healthful green juices or smoothies behind the bar. Here, they serve Morning set-up at this their morning meal with a bit of their juice with a kick. On my last two-storey, bar-like dining lumberjack ruggedness in the colder visit – a weekday – I threw propriety spot inside what was once climes. One choice is a huge plate of to the wind and ordered a Bloody Newtown’s beloved Happy Chef steak and eggs in a bombastic puddle Mary made with lacto-fermented tomatoes to go with my steak and Chinese restaurant, is easily mistaken of curried chickpeas. There’s also eggs. It all felt a bit caveman, but for a pub getting ready for lunch. a stack of buttermilk pancakes given what a welcome change from With its windowfront seating facing an unexpected kink with a shot of Sydney’s unending obsession with Newtown’s busy King Street, high-top miso in its caramel butter sauce – Instagrammable breakfasts covered tables and shelves of wine and spirits, tasty, though it takes real commitment in edible flowers or pomegranate seeds. “In the Middle Ages people this ain’t no pretty and dainty Bondi to finish something this rich first thing Beach café. What it is, is a multi- in the day. If you really feel like getting drank quarts of mead and hacked purpose restaurant/bar hybrid that’s your heart started, a blood pancake into last night’s lamb leg before they serving up food and drinks every day with a fried egg and chilli maple sauce started the day, so what of it!” I thought from 7am until late, so the energy should defibrillate things nicely. defiantly as I chugged back my vodka PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO. feels more boozy than breakfasty. Even Sydney’s favourite breakfast and tasty lumps of steak. The menu has muscle to it as well, staple (well, second favourite, next Sometimes, especially when partly to suit the moody atmospherics to the ubiquitous smashed avo), the you’re still bleary-eyed before your and partly because of head chef bacon and egg roll gets a tough-guy first coffee, you just want a no- Jesse Warkentin’s (ex-Continental makeover. Here, the bacon butty nonsense breakfast that’s not better Deli) Canadian heritage; they like takes inspiration from what Warkentin looking than you are. ● 44 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R



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SEPTEMBER EVERYDAY From weeknight suppers to simple entertaining, these everyday recipes keep things fresh, fast and simple. VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Photography JAMES MOFFATT Styling LUCY BUSUTTIL Food preparation DOMINIC SMITH G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 47

Everyday Blistered tomato, potato and truffle salami breakfast bread SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS STANDING, PROVING) 7 gm sachet dried yeast 2 tsp caster sugar 330 ml warm milk of choice 400 gm ‘00’ flour, plus extra for dusting 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 2 chat potatoes, very thinly sliced 24 thin slices truffle salami (see note) 500 gm cherry truss tomatoes 2 tbsp thyme leaves, plus extra leaves to serve 1 Place yeast, sugar and milk in a jug and stir to combine. Stand in a warm place until foamy (15 minutes). 2 Meanwhile, place flour and 1 tsp fine salt in a bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook and mix on low speed to combine. Gradually add in milk mixture followed by olive oil until combined. The dough will be a bit sticky. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and, using floured hands, shape into a ball, then place in a lightly greased bowl. Cover and leave in a warm place for 1 hour or until doubled in size. 3 Preheat oven to 220°C (fan-forced). Grease base and sides of a 3cm-deep, 23cm x 32cm rectangular baking tin. Press dough into base of tin; stand in warm place until slightly puffed (30 minutes). Arrange sliced potatoes and salami, some slightly overlapping, on top of the dough followed by tomatoes, then drizzle with oil and scatter with thyme; season to taste. 4 Bake until crust is golden and tomatoes have blistered (18-20 minutes). Scatter over extra thyme and serve. Note Truffle salami is available from select supermarkets and delicatessens. If unavailable, substitute regular salami. SERVING SUGGESTION For a light lunch, serve this bread as part of an antipasti platter alongside cheese and dips. 48 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Sicilian artichoke, SWAP IT OUT broad bean and pecorino salad If fresh artichokes are unavailable or you SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 25 MINS would like to reduce the cooking time, 6 small globe artichokes 1 lemon, halved substitute marinated 400 gm dried busiate (see note) artichoke hearts. 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 80 gm unsalted butter 2 golden shallots, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 20 gm salted capers, rinsed 200 gm podded broad beans (about 380gm unpodded) 1 tbsp lemon juice, plus 1 tsp finely grated rind 80 gm (1 cup) finely grated pecorino, plus extra, to serve ¼ cup (loosely packed) oregano leaves, plus extra to serve Crème fraîche and julienned preserved lemon, to serve 1 Trim artichoke stems and peel away tough outer leaves until you reach the pale inner hearts, and rub with lemon to prevent discolouration. Halve hearts, remove hairy choke with a teaspoon, then rub cut sides with lemon. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, add artichoke and boil for 3 minutes to par-cook. Remove with a slotted spoon, leaving water in pan on heat, and halve or quarter artichokes depending on size. 2 Add busiate to artichoke water and cook until al dente (8-10 minutes). Drain well, reserving 250ml pasta water. 3 Meanwhile, heat olive oil and butter in a deep frying pan over medium-high heat, add shallots and garlic and cook until just softened (4 minutes). Add artichokes to pan along with capers, broad beans, lemon juice and rind, and reserved pasta water, and stir until artichokes are tender (5-7 minutes). Add pasta, pecorino and oregano, and toss to combine (1-2 minutes). Season to taste and serve topped with crème fraîche, pecorino and scattered with oregano and preserved lemon. Note Busiate is a type of long macaroni available from select supermarkets and specialty food shops. If unavailable, substitute casarecce. ➤

Chicken, prawn and chilli pot stickers MAKES 24 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 15 MINS PREPARE AHEAD 200 gm minced chicken 1 For filling, place chicken, prawn 6 large cooked king prawns, cleaned, meat, ginger, garlic, shallots, chilli jam, If you’re entertaining finely chopped oyster sauce, herbs and egg in a bowl; a crowd, prepare the pot 3 tsp finely grated ginger season to taste and mix to combine. stickers ahead and store, 2 garlic cloves, finely grated Roll into 24 even oval-sized balls. covered with a damp clean 2 red shallots, finely chopped 2 Place gow gee wrappers on a clean tea towel in the refrigerator, work surface and brush edges with and cook when required. 1½ tbsp Thai chilli jam water. Place one ball in the centre 2 tsp oyster sauce of each wrapper. Fold edges of the 3 tsp each finely chopped coriander wrappers over and press together and Vietnamese mint to seal, then pleat as desired. 1 egg, lightly beaten 3 Heat oil in a large non-stick frying pan with a lid over medium-high heat. Add 24 gow gee wrappers (see note) dumplings, followed by 250ml water. 60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil Cover with lid and cook for 5-7 minutes. Remove lid and cook until water has 1 long green chilli, thinly sliced, plus evaporated, and dumplings are cooked extra chopped, to serve and golden underneath (4-6 minutes). Micro coriander, kimchi and dumpling 4 Divide pot stickers between plates sauce (see note), to serve and scatter with sliced green chilli and micro coriander. Serve with kimchi, finely chopped green chilli and dumpling sauce on the side. Note Gow gee wrappers, kimchi and dumpling sauce are available from select supermarkets and Asian grocers.