Australian Gourmet Traveller - July 2022

Spiced chicken Martabak with sweet onion sambal SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS COOLING) 1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for 1 Heat oil in a large wok or frying pan (2 minutes). Add sambal, stir to combine, shallow-frying over high heat. Add garlic and ginger and take off heat. and cook until fragrant (30 seconds). 4 Fill a wok a third full with vegetable oil 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Add chicken mince, spices and fried and place over medium-high heat until 1 tbsp finely grated ginger shallots; season to taste. Cook, breaking 180˚C. Carefully add curry leaves and 400 gm chicken thigh mince up meat with back of a wooden spoon. cook for 30 seconds, or until crisp; set 2 tsp ground coriander Add cabbage and cook until wilted aside. Working in batches cook Martabak 1 tsp cumin seeds (1 minute). Set aside to cool. until golden and crisp (1-2 minutes). Drain 10 gm (¼ cup) crisp fried shallots 2 Working with one pastry at a time. on paper towel and repeat. Serve with 100 gm shredded Chinese cabbage Spoon ⅓ cup filling on one half, leaving sambal, lime halves and curry leaves. 8 spring roll wrappers (20cm) a 1cm border. Brush edge with egg and Note Spring roll wrappers are available 1 egg, lightly beaten fold over, to seal. Repeat with remaining at select supermarkets and Asian 6 sprigs curry leaves pastry, filling and egg. grocers. ➤ 3 Meanwhile, for sweet shallot sambal, Lime halves, to serve heat oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add shallot and cook, SWEET SHALLOT SAMBAL stirring until starting to caramelise (6-8 minutes). Add kecap manis and tamarind 2 tbsp vegetable oil and cook until fragrant and caramelised 2 small banana shallots, thinly sliced 1 tbsp kecap manis 1 tbsp tamarind concentrate 50 gm (⅓ cup) sambal oelek

Chilli squid-ink spaghetti SWAP IT OUT SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 15 MINS Replace the squid-ink spaghetti with your favourite long pasta. 80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil 1 Heat half oil in a large heavy-based 2 garlic cloves, crushed frying pan over medium heat. Add garlic You can also swap squid for and sobrasada and cook, breaking up prawns if you prefer. 270 gm sobrasada (or soft, fresh chorizo any lumps with a fork until fragrant removed from casing; see note) (3 minutes). Add wine, stock, and bring 4 For crumb, add fennel seeds, to a simmer (6 minutes). Add tomatoes peppercorn and pine nuts to same 125 ml (½ cup) red wine and vino cotto, reduce heat to low and pan and cook, stirring occasionally 180 ml (¾ cup) fish stock cook until reduced and slightly until golden (1 minute). Take off heat, 400 gm can crushed tomatoes thickened (4 minutes). add chilli, oregano and parsley; season 2 Cook pasta in salted boiling water to taste and toss to combine. Divide 2 tbsp vino cotto until al dente (6-8 minutes). Drain, add pasta and serve scattered with crumbs 400 gm squid-ink spaghetti pasta to sauce, season to taste and and amaranth. 400 gm squid, cleaned and thinly sliced toss to combine. Note Sobrasada, a spreadable salami, 3 Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in is available at delicatessens. Squid-ink Baby amaranth leaves, to serve a large frying pan over high heat. Add spaghetti is available at select grocers. squid, season to taste and cook until just CRUMB golden (3-4 minutes). Remove with tongs and set aside; return pan to heat. 1 tsp each fennel seeds and mixed dried peppercorns, crushed 40 gm (1/4 cup) pine nuts, coarsely chopped ½ tsp dried chilli flakes ½ tsp each dried oregano and parsley 52 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Everyday Southern-style pork with warm chow chow SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS MARINATING, RESTING) 1 double pork cutlet (700gm), rind on, pan over high heat. Add pork, rind-side PREPARE AHEAD at room temperature (see note) down and cook until golden and starting to crisp (3 minutes). Turn and cook on Traditionally served as 60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil each side until golden (4 minutes). a pickle with meats, we 2 brown onions, thinly sliced Remove from pan and set aside. have kept this chow chow 2 dried chillies 2 Add remaining oil to pan and reduce as a warm salad. Prepare 1 tsp cumin seeds heat to medium, add onion, chilli, spices ahead; keep leftovers 2 tsp celery seeds and bay and cook until tender (4-5 ½ tsp ground turmeric minutes). Add vinegar, sugar and refrigerated for up to ¼ tsp each allspice and caraway seeds cabbage; season and toss to coat. three days. 1 cinnamon quill 3 Place pork on top of cabbage mixture, 2 bay leaves transfer to oven and cook until cabbage is just tender and pork is cooked through 125 ml (½ cup) apple cider vinegar (20-25 minutes). Set aside, loosely 55 gm (¼ cup firmly packed) brown covered to rest. 4 Mix butter with chilli, garlic powder sugar and thyme; season to taste. Spoon butter 500 gm green cabbage, cut into wedges over pork and serve. 60 gm unsalted butter, softened Note Double pork cutlets are a thicker cut with bone still attached; ask your ¼ tsp chilli powder, plus extra for butcher to prepare. If unavailable, sprinkling substitute two 350gm pork cutlets and reduce cooking time. ➤ ¼ tsp garlic powder 2 tbsp lemon thyme, chopped 1 Preheat oven to 180˚C. Score rind of pork and rub with half the oil. Heat a large heavy-based ovenproof frying

Everyday Warm eggplant zaalouk with spiced lamb skewers COOKING TIP SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 35 MINS (PLUS MARINATING) If using oven, preheat grill and set rack on 1 large eggplant (350gm) 1 Prick eggplant with a fork and cook second-highest rung. 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil over an open flame either on a rack on 4 garlic cloves, crushed a gas stove or on a barbecue, turning Halve eggplant 200 gm crushed tomatoes occasionally, until charred and soft lengthways, then place 1 tbsp tomato paste (20-25 minutes). Halve lengthways and ¼ tsp cayenne pepper scoop flesh into a colander, to drain. cut-side down on 1 tbsp caster sugar 2 Meanwhile, heat oil in a large frying a foil-lined baking tray. 1 tsp each ground cumin and coriander pan over medium heat. Add garlic, Grill until charred and 1 tbsp lemon juice tomatoes, tomato paste, cayenne, sugar, 800 gm lamb neck, cut into 2 cm pieces cumin and coriander and cook, stirring tender (20 minutes). for 20 minutes, or until reduced. Add GREEN HARISSA lemon juice and eggplant, and gently 4 Thread lamb onto six metal skewers; toss until just combined. Set aside and spoon over half harissa and marinade ½ cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley keep warm. until ready to cook. 1 clove garlic, chopped 3 For green harissa, combine 5 Heat a char-grill pan over high heat, ingredients in a blender and blend add lamb and cook, turning occasionally, Finely grated rind and juice of until smooth. until charred and cooked through 1 lemon (6-8 minutes). Spoon over remaining 2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted harissa and serve lamb with zaalouk. 1 long green chilli, chopped 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 54 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Jerk-rubbed FLAVOUR TIP barramundi with dirty rice This rub works well with any protein, especially SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS MARINATING, RESTING) chicken and pork. 60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp ground allspice 2 tsp Cajun spice blend 1 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp dried thyme Pinch of cayenne pepper 55 gm (¼ cup firmly packed) brown sugar 2 large barramundi (800gm each), scaled, cleaned and scored 2 sprigs bay leaves 1 lemon, sliced 300 gm okra, halved 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 white onion, finely chopped 320 gm (1½ cups) long grain white rice 1 red chilli, seeded and finely chopped 500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock 4 spring onions, thinly sliced Lemon wedges, to serve 1 Preheat oven to 240˚C. For jerk rub, combine half the oil, half allspice, half Cajun spice blend, coriander, thyme, cayenne pepper and sugar in a bowl and season. Stuff cavity of barramundi with lemon slices and one sprig bay and rub marinade over fish; set aside to marinate while you make rice. 2 Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Add okra and cook, tossing until just blistered (6 minutes); season to taste. Remove from pan, set aside and keep warm. Add celery and onion to pan, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened (4 minutes). Add rice, chilli, remaining allspice and Cajun spice blend, remaining bay and stir to coat. 3 Add stock and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until rice is tender (15 minutes). Add spring onions with okra, season to taste and stir to combine. 4 Meanwhile, roast barramundi, until blistered and flesh is just cooked through at the bone (15 minutes); rest for 5 minutes before serving. Serve with rice and lemon wedges. ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 55

Everyday Honey cheesecake with caramelised ginger pears SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 40 MINS (PLUS COOLING) 500 gm firm ricotta, drained 1 Preheat oven to 180˚C. Grease and Set aside at room temperature and 200 gm soft goat’s cheese line a 7cm deep, 10cm x 20cm loaf tin refrigerate until cold. 125 ml (½ cup) pouring cream with baking paper. Combine ricotta, 3 For caramelised ginger pears, goat’s cheese, half the cream and place honey, ginger wine and ginger 1 tsp vanilla extract vanilla in the bowl of an electric in a non-stick frying pan over medium 2 eggs, at room temperature mixer and beat on high until smooth heat and bring to a simmer. Add pepper 95 gm (¼ cup) honey (2 minutes). Add eggs one at a time, and pears cut-side down and cook, until 2 tbsp self-raising flour, sifted beating well after each addition. Add caramelised and tender (4 minutes). honey and mix to combine. Mix flour Carefully turn and cook until tender CARAMELISED GINGER PEARS and remaining cream together and fold (2 minutes). to combine. 4 Slice cheesecake into bars and 190 gm (½ cup) honey 2 Pour into prepared tin and smooth top with pears and honey syrup. 80 ml (⅓ cup) ginger wine top; bake until golden with a gentle ½ tsp coarsely cracked black pepper wobble on surface (35-40 minutes). 4 small firm corella pears, peeled and halved 1 tsp grated ginger We use meat from Devitt Wholesale Meats in the GT Test Kitchen and in all our photo shoots.



Harissa This African chilli paste is a sure-fire hit as a marinade for lamb, a spicy rub for barbecued fish or to pep up stews or soups. 58 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Masterclass H arissa is a traditional staple of North African cuisine, Green harissa, made from green chillies and and like many other cultures, recipes and ingredients coriander, is ideal for barbecued meats, vary between regions and households. This harissa especially chicken. Rose harissa, made from is hot, but not as fiery as many because we use long tomatoes, red chillies and smoked paprika, as red chillies; to decrease the heat even more, seed some or all of well as dried rose petals and rosewater, works the chillies as this is where most of the heat is found. We have well with seafood. The fragrant rose balances marinated a lamb leg and roasted it in this recipe but it goes the heat of the chillies. equally well with chicken, seafood and vegetables. 2 PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING OLIVIA BLACKMORE. KIP & CO CUTLERY. ALL OTHER PROPS STYLIST’S OWN. 13 Step by step 2 Cover with plastic wrap or baking 3 Place capsicums and chillies in paper; stand for 10 minutes. Peel a large deep mortar and pestle with 1 Preheat a lightly greased char-grill away skin and set aside. Meanwhile, spices, 10 finely chopped garlic cloves, pan or barbecue to high. Take 2 red place 2 tbsp cumin seeds and 1 tbsp 6 fresh coriander roots, and 1 tsp sea salt capsicums and quarter; discard seeds coriander seeds in a small frying pan flakes and pound to a paste. Gradually and membranes. Take 15 large, long over medium heat, cook, stirring add 2 tbsp olive oil until combined; red chillies (about 300gm), and halve continuously, until fragrant (1-2 minutes). season to taste. Makes 1½-2 cups. ● lengthways, discarding stalks. Cook Transfer to a small mortar and pestle capsicums and chillies, skin-side down, and finely grind. until skin blisters and blackens (10 minutes for chillies and 20 minutes for capsicums). HARISSA ROAST LAMB Preheat oven to 180°C. Place a 2kg bone-in, Frenched lamb leg in a large bowl and coat with half of the harissa. Drizzle with olive oil and season to taste. Place lamb on a greased wire rack in a roasting pan, and roast, until browned and cooked to medium-rare (1¾-2 hours). Set aside to rest for 15 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter and scatter with coriander leaves. Serve with roasted mixed baby heirloom carrots, herbed couscous and remaining harissa and charred lemon halves on the side. If you have time, marinate the lamb overnight for a deeper flavour, otherwise a couple of hours will do the trick. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 59

SPICE These iconic spice blends span history, geography and a world of flavours, writes LARISSA DUBECKI. of life Photography ALANA LANDSBERRY Styling HOLLY DORAN T hey’ve caused wars, forged global trading Time-honoured and deeply loved, they can be routes and established empires. Spices an assertion of national pride (witness Jamaica’s and their aromatic alchemy derived from vocal disdain over Jamie Oliver’s “punchy jerk dried seeds, bark and other plant parts rice”) and a delicious vehicle for cultural have changed the world while banishing the bland. understanding (some say one-quarter of the world’s population eat harissa on a daily basis). No self-respecting home cook is without their own collection of essential spices, but to truly spice Even essential spice blends vary between up your life it’s worth getting to know the world’s countries and regions. One region’s caraway most iconic blends. seed is another’s aniseed, and remember: most are easily customisable, so don’t be afraid to These essential spice mixes from around tweak any spice recipe to your own preferences. the globe transcend the sum of their parts.

ZA’ATAR RAS EL HANOUT A herby spice mix (or a spicy herb mix), this Levantine Earthy and intoxicating, the North African spice staple has a history dating back to biblical times. Often blend translates loosely as “top shelf.” Essential sprinkled on top of flatbreads, its pungent mix of dried to Moroccan dishes – including the delicately thyme and oregano with the crucial ingredient of sumac flavoured pigeon or chicken pie b’stilla – it (a tangy roasted berry), salt and toasted sesame seeds is usually consists of more than a dozen spices also said to be chock-full of healthy antioxidants. Add it to including cardamom, cumin, clove, cinnamon, everything from scrambled eggs to meatballs. nutmeg, mace, allspice, chilli, coriander seed, peppercorn, paprika, fenugreek, and turmeric. VADOUVAN FIVE SPICE A product of colonisation, this curry blend is Embodying the philosophy of yin and testament to the French occupation of the yang, the best-known Chinese spice south-east Indian region of Pondicherry (now mix balances the warm notes of Puducherry) in the late 1700s. Milder than a cinnamon, star anise and fennel with native Indian curry blend, it adds aromatics the cooling properties of cloves and such as shallots and garlic to cumin, cardamom, Sichuan peppercorns. Warm and mustard seeds, turmeric, cloves and nutmeg. slightly sweet, it’s essential to Peking Its sweeter and milder flavour is increasingly duck and is great as a dry rub to give popular in leading European restaurant tables. a tangy-sweet flavour to high-fat proteins such as pork belly. ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 61

BAHARAT BERBERE Also known as seven spice, the Expand your spice horizons with this quintessential Arabic spice blend is sweet, citrusy and chilli-hot blend hailing a culinary workhorse, with its beguiling from Ethiopia. Adding the lesser-known blend of sweet and smoky flavours used Indigenous spices korarima, ajwain and in everything from soup to grilled meats. long pepper to a mix of red chilli, Believed to have originated in Syria and fenugreek, ginger, coriander, cardamom, a fixture on ancient trading roots (the allspice, cumin, peppercorns, cloves and name is Arabic for “spice”), its core cinnamon, it’s a versatile ingredient in ingredients are black pepper, coriander, stews, braises and meat rubs. paprika, cardamom, nutmeg, cumin, cloves and cinnamon. MADRAS CURRY MASALA Fruity, earthy and spicy-hot, this southern Indian curry blend hailing from the city of Madras (now Chennai) sees often enthusiastic levels of chilli in a mix with coriander, turmeric, cumin, garlic, ginger, pepper, cinnamon and fenugreek. Embraced by the English in the mid-1800s as the “typical” Indian curry blend, its heat is frequently countered by the cooling effects of yoghurt-based raita. HARISSA A chilli-hot spice paste native to Tunisia that spread around the world with the Spanish conquistadors, the pungent mix of hot peppers, garlic, salt – perhaps with coriander and caraway seeds and cumin – is sprinkled into stews and soups as a flavour base. It also becomes a condiment when mixed with water and olive oil. 62 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

GARAM MASALA Toasty, fragrant and endlessly comforting, this blend owes its origins to the bitter winters of Northern India (if you need more of a hint, its name translates as “warm spice”). A staple in curries and British Indian cooking, its core ingredients include black and white pepper, cloves, cinnamon, mace, cardamom, bay leaves and the all-important cumin. HARISSA, GARAM MASALA & MADRAS CURRY POWDER SUPPLIED BY THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT. DUKKAH GUNPOWDER BLEND Hailing from ancient Egypt, Breakfast in southern India is almost this mix of herbs, nuts and unthinkable without milagai podi. Spicy spices derives its name from and powerful, the mix also known as the Arabic “to crush”. Typically gunpowder blend is commonly used to pounded in a mortar and season dosa or idli, the steamed lentil and pestle, the coarse texture of rice cake. A roasted mixture of dhal, the mix of toasted sesame asafoetida, salt and dried chilli, it’s often and coriander seeds and nuts sprinkled on cooked dishes, or mixed with (almonds, macadamia or oil or ghee into a vibrant condiment. hazelnuts) along with cumin seeds, salt and black pepper JERK SEASONING is a great companion to oil-dipped bread. The lively spice mix behind the iconic Jamaican dish of jerk chicken was devised by escaped slaves in the 1700s, who used spices growing in the wild to tenderise tough cuts of meat. These days, the punchy mix of Scotch bonnet chillies, allspice and thyme along with other ingredients including cinnamon, onion powder and nutmeg is used as a dry rub or wet marinade. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 63

BALANC ING A Umami’s spicy sidekick, yakumi might not be on the tips ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES & ADOBE STOCK. of our tongues yet but it plays a significant role in the Japanese kitchen, writes ANNE HASEGAWA. 64 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

It may be one of the most overused adjectives in food writing and conversation today: umami. Fun to say and delicious to savour. But its lesser known cousin yakumi has yet to enter the Australian lexicon, despite playing an equally important role in Japanese cuisine. If umami is the Top Gun of Japan’s national kitchen, yakumi is its Goose. Granted, Japan might not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of spice. Unlike its neighbouring countries across the East, who lead with fiery hits of chilli and piquant flavour bombs that burst in your mouth, Japanese food is famed for its subtlety and restraint. But behind those complex, delicate flavours, you will find “While umami is the yakumi bringing balance and playing yin to umami’s yang. “The main purpose of yakumi is to add extra depth of flavour in Hitoshi Miyazawa, head flavour or adjust overpowered ones. While umami is the depth of flavour in each ingredient and each ingredient and chef at Melbourne’s shapes the main taste of the dish, yakumi supports it,” explains Miyazawa. shapes the main taste acclaimed 16-seat kaiseki of the dish, yakumi restaurant, Ishizuka, says that And while you may not know the word, you supports it.” yakumi is one of the most have almost certainly sampled all kinds of yakumi important ingredients in when eating your favourite Japanese dishes. Wasabi, yuzu, ginger, shiso, grated daikon, and Japanese cuisine. umeboshi, are all yakumi. That colourful seven- spice mix you sprinkle on top of your noodles? You “It is not a superstar ingredient, but it elevates guessed it – shichimi togarashi is also yakumi. dishes. Yakumi is shown through vegetables and In kanji, the word yakumi translates directly to “medicine” (yaku) and “flavour” (mi). Some say that spices that are fragrant and have spicy tastes.” yakumi may have been used for hygiene and sanitation purposes due to its antiseptic properties. But just what exactly is yakumi? For example, ginger removes the smell of fish and meat; shiso prevents food poisoning from sashimi; Put simply, yakumi refers to any kind of natural and daikon has antibacterial properties when grated. condiment – be it a spice, herb, vegetable or “The reason why we use wasabi for raw food is because it has the influence to remove the fishy seasoning – that adds depth of flavour to enhance flavour,” explains Miyazawa. and balance a dish. kumi elevates and ties a dish “But more importantly, it allows you to enjoy the spicy aroma of wasabi and the delicious flavour together, bringing a complexity that sparks our of fish together. Ultimately, yakumi is there to support the main flavour of the dish through its tastebuds’ curiosity and leaves us wanting more. aromatic properties.” Although the use of spices to preserve, sterilise and deodorise food has been common practice globally for centuries, the evolution from past to present day use of yakumi suggests this was never really the focal point for these ingredients. ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 65

but yakumi is something we can easily build into our kitchen repertoire. Miyazawa’s top recommendation for home cooks is yuzu kosho, a yuzu citrus peel paste mixed with green or red chilli – a condiment that has been quietly making its way onto Australia’s culinary scene. “I’ve seen a lot of Australians eating dishes with this spice. Of course, we like it too! And it’s very simple to use. Just put a small amount of yuzu kosho on sushi (especially white fish), grilled fish or chicken. It will [instantly] elevate the flavour. “At Ishizuka, we’re using sansho pepper for charcoal-grilled fish on our While its etymology suggests otherwise, it appears current menu. Sansho “Yakumi has a breadth that first and foremost, they were used with aroma, is also a nice yakumi as of ingredients... flavour and balance in mind, to enhance the a hidden flavour,” he adds. Anything used to sensory experience and harmonise the dish. But at home, it’s the “Yakumi has a wide breadth of ingredients. It doesn’t have a defined set of rules of what you can iconic seven-spice, support the dish to and can’t use. Anything used to support the main shichimi, that remains his elevate its experience dish to elevate its experience can be called yakumi.” favourite. “I use [it] a lot can be called yakumi.” in my home. It’s a classic If you’ve ever had the privilege of eating kaiseki – a multi-course dinner that celebrates seasonal spice for udon noodles.” ingredients by balancing taste, texture, aesthetic and colours – you will have noticed the way different While kaiseki remains an art form that’s best spices and herbs complement each dish. So much so, the dish simply wouldn’t be the same without it. left for experts like Miyazawa, incorporating yakumi That’s because yakumi is more than a garnish into your everyday cooking is easily achieved and or conduit for flavour. It is the producer in the background, helping everything come together. will amplify your dishes, spark sensory joy, and The one that keeps the main ingredient in check so it can shine through and make the most of maybe even teach you a thing or two about balance what it has to offer. Yakumi is the supporting ingredient that unites each dish to make and restraint in the kitchen. After all, you can something great, spectacular. always add more, but you can’t take it away. ● This philosophy is what makes Japan’s relationship with spice such an anomaly when compared to the rest of the world. “It’s hard to combine Japanese dishes with spices like coriander, cumin and star anise. These spices have a distinct flavour and can take over the main dish. In Japanese cuisine, we want the spice to be a quiet supporter of dishes.” The art of cooking Japanese food may feel intimidating even for the most confident of cooks, 66 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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Photography CHRIS COURT OYSTERS SUPPLIED BY NOTARAS FISH MARKETS. Styling VIVIEN WALSH

A touch of MAGIC Because spice begets spiciness, ANNA MCCOOE looks at the traditional aphrodisiacs, which are still seducing diners today. C leopatra bathed in saffron-infused Like us, Tibballs isn’t here to dish out milk to send her lovers mad with medical advice or push a wellness agenda, she desire and Casanova downed 50 just really loves chocolate in all its sensual oysters for breakfast each day for glory. Her favourite dessert for sparking sexual prowess. Kirsten Tibballs – possibly the romance is a decadent chocolate lava cake – most seductive of the lot – prefers the loin- “a warm, baked chocolate pudding with stirring qualities of chocolate. The pastry chef a gooey chocolate centre that slowly flows out and chocolatier from the Savour Chocolate & once you break into the dessert.” Technically, Patisserie School is one of many Australian it is more saucy than spicy but it’s still utterly chefs dabbling in alleged aphrodisiacs. irresistible. “Even something as simple as melted chocolate drizzled over ice-cream, You don’t have to go the full 9 ½ Weeks to enjoyed while cuddling on the couch, can set know food and sex go together like Kim a romantic mood.” Basinger and a 1986 Mickey Rourke (don’t let us keep you from your erotic foodie fantasies). Through history, there have been Take, for example, chocolate, which Tibballs aphrodisiacs, which are mostly symbolic like believes to have undeniable chemistry. figs, asparagus, and cucumber and those that “From a technical point, endorphins, spark lust because they are rare and precious, dopamine, serotonin, and oxytocin are four such as truffle and saffron. Seafood earned its neurotransmitters that, when released from the seductive reputation early thanks to the Greek brain, are responsible for our happiness. They goddess of love, Aphrodite (or Venus in the are also released when we eat chocolate, which Roman world), who emerged from the sea on can replicate the feeling of being in love,” she a scallop shell. According to aphrodisiac foods says. “The melt-in-your-mouth texture followed authority Amy Reiley, who has her Master’s by that pop of flavour also contribute.” degree in Gastronomy from Le Cordon Bleu ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 69

and the University of Adelaide, the Peruvian food an aphrodisiac bomb.” topic of what makes an aphrodisiac is Also, on the menu at Pastuso is a complex one. “I like to recommend foods that have both a folkloric history maca root, which is whipped into an and some sort of scientific evidence to emulsion and paired with an alpaca support their use as an aphrodisiac,” tartare. The Incas used it to increase says the Fork me, Spoon Me author. their sexual appetite and fertility and, today there is science-backed evidence Oysters fit into the symbolic to show they were onto something. category, but they are also scientifically sexy thanks to the high quantities of Warming spices such as ginger, zinc, which improves testosterone levels. cinnamon, pepper and cardamom Caviar is another extravagance, which come into play too. Just ask O Tama pairs fertility imagery with a big zinc Carey of Lankan Filling Station, who hit. And we all know nothing sets the does a Sri Lankan love cake packed mood quite like a mobile caviar service, with cardamom, cinnamon, white delivering bumps directly to the snuff pepper, salt and urban mythology. of hands. Add a little eye contact into “The cake was influenced by the the mix and there’s a reason the Portuguese when they came and then it Russians used caviar as a weapon of was Sri Lankanified,” she says. The “sexpionage” in the Cold War. delectable dessert either got its name for being the cake a young woman Then there are aphrodisiacs that baked to win the love of a suitor or stimulate, which is where things get as a hand-mixed labour of love. “It’s truly spicy. Peruvian chef Samuel Rivas a very physical cake to make,” Carey from Pastuso in Melbourne is a master explains. Either way, the story has of the invigorating cuisine. “Peruvian a happy ending; fluffy egg whites over food is super aphrodisiac,” he says. At a golden outer crust and a dense, gooey the root of this claim is the Peruvian aji middle. Plus, a pretty smell of rose, amarillo chilli, a bright and fruity chilli which Carey says is “very aphrodisiac”. with high levels of circulation-boosting With such an effect, Carey is lucky the capsaicin, reputed to heat things up. love cake is the last course not the first. The yellow chilli’s powers are most She laughs, “This is true. We need potent when added to citrus, fish offcuts, scallops, and other Peruvian chillies to create a marinade for ceviche called aji amarillo leche de tigre (Tiger’s Milk), a legendary aphrodisiac (and hangover cure). As Rivas says, “This type of chilli combined with other ingredients, like seafood, makes the 70 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

them to stay to the end.” Rare and expensive, the aphrodisiac qualities of saffron are legendary. The ancient Greeks brewed it in love potions while, in quantity, it is thought to be a mind-altering hallucinogen, hence Cleopatra and her sexy saffron baths. As British ayurvedic chef Anjum Anand tells it, newly married couples from wealthy families in old India were given a glass of saffron milk every night for the first week of their marriage. But is it simply the desire for luxury that needs quenching or is it more carnal? Anand can’t confirm or deny an aphrodisiac effect but says saffron offers numerous qualities that contribute to a libido boost. “Saffron is harmonising and, in the right quantities, good for our general immunity. It is good for the digestive system and for circulation as well,” she says. “It has also been considered good for one’s mood and has even been clinically proven to reduce depression. It is also said to improve PMT and menstrual issues for women and improve men’s fertility and, shall we say, vigour.” Separately, she believes a few strands of saffron in her morning tea will aid in a youthful glow, though she also loves it in a kulfi or biryani. “If you can feel well physically and mentally, be in a good mood and glow, you are going to feel good about yourself and then you are at your most attractive.” But what to wash it all down with? Isn’t a moderate amount of alcohol the most evocative aphrodisiac of all? Champagne is a reliable libido-enhancing libation, going to the head and then the hip-adjacent region with its inhibition-loosening effervescence. At Loulou Bistro in Sydney, chef Billy Hannigan loves Champagne with oysters, strawberries, and John Dory farçi, an elegant dish of poached Dory and scallop, dressed in a rich velouté of caviar and Champagne. Hannigan also calls it “the flirtiest dish on the menu at Loulou.” By power of science or just suggestion, Champagne, chocolate, oysters, caviar and all their spicy contemporaries certainly put romance on the table. Even if they don’t make your dinner date any more attractive, one way or another, you will be seduced. ● G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 71



HOT HISTORY Across continents and cuisines, there are few places untouched by chilli’s lovely heat. NADIA BAILEY delves into its origins. Photography ALANA LANDSBERRY Styling HOLLY DORAN G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 73

S errano. Guajillo. Manzano. For every from there, they passed to other Mesoamerican palate, a chilli: from the mild crunch of and Native American cultures, then to those in the a banana pepper to the peppery kick of Caribbean. Of about 25 species of the genus the cayenne, from the sweetness of Capsicum that existed, five became domesticated friggitelli to the prickling heat of the birdseye. across different areas: annuum in Mexico, Across almost every country and culture, chilli chinense in Amazonia, frutescens in southern proliferates – by some estimates, there are more Central America, baccatum in Bolivia, Ecuador, than 50,000 Capsicum cultivars grown worldwide. Peru and Chile, and pubescens in the Andes. In It inspires devotion, obsession and for some, gardens, on trade routes, in ritual practices and a never-ending quest for an ever-hotter fix. But folklore, the chilli flourished. where did it all begin? The cultivation of chilli in the rest of the world In what’s now known as Bolivia and Mexico, has, by comparison, a fairly short history – barely the Indigenous people first foraged chillies where more than 500 years. The plant was unknown they grew in the wild. As early as 4000 BC, they outside of the Americas until Christopher were cultivated for culinary use. Aztec plant Columbus brought them to Iberia in the early growers developed dozens of annuum species; 1500s – when chillies (along with tomatoes,

potatoes, cocoa and more) first reached foreign palates. Following Columbus, Portuguese traders carried chillies to settlements and colonies in West Africa, in India and across East Asia. At the same time, the Spanish forged a path in the opposite direction, spreading the seeds through southern China and Manila by way of the Pacific. Once established there, local trade routes took chilli to Indonesia, Tibet and Bhutan, where it was adopted as a vegetable rather than a seasoning and used liberally in every meal (ema datshi, a stew Aleppo pepper brought a new depth of warmth made from chilli pods and soft yak cheese, is and spice; and in the Maghreb, the baklouti was considered Bhutan’s national dish). pulverised into a paste to make harissa, forever The Turks acquired chillies via conquests of changing the region’s cuisine. Portuguese trade posts, and spread them to the Chilli probably made its way to Australia with Ottoman Empire, then Few other foods the British, who had warmed up to the Moravia and Hungary. There, spice during the Empire’s colonial rule the locals bred them to reduce have been taken up of India; or perhaps it came with their pungency – dried and by so many people in Chinese migrants in the early 1800s. powdered, the mild so many places with The 1864 publication The English and Hungarian wax peppers Australian Cookery Book – considered became paprika. In Thailand, such enthusiasm. the first attempt to codify a specific tiny, bullet-shaped birdseye Australian cuisine – calls for both chillies set fire to local palates; cayenne and birdseye chillies in its in Syria and Turkey, the recipes, while an earlier colonial cookbook, The Housewife’s Guide (1843), suggests cayenne to spice up such delicacies as beef à la mode, harrico of mutton and fricassée of rabbit. Few other foods have been taken up by so many people in so many places with such enthusiasm – which is particularly extraordinary ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 75

given the chilli’s unique ability to cause bodily “Eating chilli is something pain. The heat in chillies comes from their that becomes part of capsaicinoids, a series of related compounds concentrated in its internal ribs and seeds. These your DNA. For me, my life capsaicinoids turn on the pain receptors in the will be rather boring if mouth and tongue, delivering a burning sensation I don’t have it.” that ranges from pleasantly warming to an unholy assault. A particularly hot variety can induce This amorous tendency accounts for the streaming eyes, heart palpitations, hot flushes, creation of ever-hotter pods, which has seen furious sweats. One researcher, trying to pinpoint growers ratchet up the Scoville Heat Units (SHU) exactly why people actively seek out something that – the scale that measures a chilli’s bite – to causes such suffering, coined the term “benign increasingly alarming levels. No sooner than the masochism”. bhut jolokia (the first chilli to register at more than a million SHU) was crowned the winner, the This theory rings true to chef Tony Tan, whose Infinity (1.1 million SHU) came along, followed by childhood in Malaysia meant early exposure to the the Naga Viper (1.3 million SHU), Trinidad experience. He recalls an early encounter with a Scorpion Butch T (1.4 million SHU), and the chilli-stuffed rice ball: “It was so hot – like, the pain Carolina Reaper, which currently dominates the and the ecstasy, you know? You become a bit field at an apocalyptic 1.6 million SHU and is addicted to it because it releases endorphins.” probably available in your local supermarket. Tan has some authority to speak on the subject. And if you’ve bitten off more than you can Such is his affinity with the plant that his handle? “The best antidote to kill that hotness is nickname as a child was “Little Chilli” and he was to take a lump of sugar and put it in your mouth,” once painted for the Archibald Prize holding a pod says Tan. “It immediately tones the heat down.” aloft. These days, at his home and cooking school For those not yet at the Reaper stage of the chilli in Trentham, Victoria, he grows at least four journey, he suggests starting small. “If you are varieties in his greenhouse: Scotch bonnets, nervous about eating fresh chillies, then look at cayenne, Hungarian blacks and Thai birdseye buying pickled chillies, sweet chilli sauce or chillies. He’s watching them closely to see if they’ll chilli oil. After that, you can become a bit cross-pollinate and produce new strains. “Chilli more experimental.” plants can be a little bit amorous,” he explains. Like many who have fallen for its unique charms, Tan considers the plant to be something of an obsession. “Eating chilli is something that becomes part of your DNA,” he muses. “For me, my life will be rather boring if I don't have it.” ●

GLOSSARY Aleppo A warm, smoky chilli pepper with a mild heat Jalapeño A long, tapering thick-fleshed green chilli that builds slowly on the palate, commonly used with a pronounced flavour and middling heat. across the Mediterranean and the Middle East. Kashmiri A bright red, mild chilli commonly found in Ancho Dried, ripe poblano peppers. Generally low in Indian and Sri Lankan cuisine. Generally used dried heat, with a distinctive sweet, fruity flavour. and powdered. Árbol A long, curved chilli with a bright, fiery heat and Paprika A vibrant red chilli powder made from dried slightly grassy flavour. red pods, ranging in flavour from mild to hot to Baklouti A large, pungent chilli with a mellow tinge of smoked. Popular in Spanish and Hungarian cuisine. heat, found in Northwest Africa. Used as the primary Poblano A small green chilli that ranges in heat from ingredient in harissa. mild to kicking, commonly used in Spanish cuisine. Bhut jolokia Popular in India, this chilli is notorious for Scotch bonnet Similar in heat to the habanero, but its intense flavour and blistering heat. Also known as with a somewhat sweeter and smokier flavour. the ghost pepper. Scoville scale A system of measuring the pungency Birdseye Tiny, fiery chillies commonly used in Thai of chillies based on the concentration of capsaicinoids, cuisine. Sometimes called bird peppers or chilli padi. typically with capsaicin content as the primary Capsaicinoids A series of related compounds measure. Recorded in Scoville Heat Units (SHU). concentrated in the internal ribs and seeds of a chilli Serrano A small, hot variety popular throughout that registers in our mouths as both heat and pain. Mexico and Southeast Asia. Sharp, crisp and with Cayenne Most commonly used in its dried, powdered considerable bite. form, cayenne has a hot, aromatic, peppery flavour. Shishito A mild chilli commonly used in Japan, with Chipotle Dried, smoked, ripe jalapeño peppers with a fresh, peppery flavour. Generally used when a moderately spicy, smoky and complex flavour. still green. Gochugaru Dried, smoky-sweet chilli powder used Tabasco A small pungent chilli, with a fiery, smoky in Korean cuisine. taste, most famous for its use in Tabasco sauce. Habanero One of the more commonly available Urfa biber A dark red-purple chilli from Turkey, with varieties, with a fruity taste and lingering, white-hot burn. a smoky, fruity, slightly sour flavour and modest heat. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 77

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PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN. STYLING LEE BLAYLOCK. J U LY FOOD Turn up the heat Chefs Helly Raichura and Paul Farag share their spice secrets, follow the Nutmeg Trail, and journey out of Africa. Enter Via Laundry p92 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 81

Scents of PLACE Chef PAUL FARAG takes us on an exciting culinary journey to the Middle East with some of his favourite dishes from Aalia. Words JORDAN KRETCHMER

Grilled prawns, corn, saffron pine nut milk p87 Photography BEN DEARNLEY Styling STEVE PEARCE Food preparation TAMIKA O’NEILL G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 83

Paul Farag It’s been two years since Paul Farag and his team first discovered the Aalia site, located below Harry Seidler’s MLC Centre, now refreshed as 25 Martin Place. Incorporating the skills learnt at Monopole and Fish Butchery, Farag has set out to rethink the idea of Middle Eastern cuisine. “I wanted to create a venue that championed and pioneered a respect for a culture and cuisine that’s been around for such a long time,” says Farag. It was his head chef posting at Surry Hills’ Nour that was a springboard for Farag to explore his Egyptian roots, before delving deeper at Aalia. The menu is made up of elegant dishes with a sharp focus on seafood. “When people think of the Middle East, they think of dry, desert land. Not many think of the water,” says Farag. Rather than hero one location, Farag’s cooking traverses the sprawling region. “Dishes from the East – Persian, Iraqi or Saudi – are heavily spiced. But towards the Mediterranean like Tunisia, there’s more seafood.” Heady spices are a common thread of the menu. “Something I’ve started teaching my kitchen is that spices aren’t always the same. You could get three batches of Aleppo pepper and they will be different,” he says. It’s here all the senses – like spices – can transform a meal. “When you’re cooking with spices, that is where your senses come in; smelling, tasting,” he says. “Cooking is a feeling – it’s not robotic.” 25 Martin Place, Sydney, NSW, aaliarestaurant.com 84 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Chermoula lamb ribs fatteh SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 3 HRS 20 MINS “This is one of my favourite cuts of lamb – delicious and full of flavour,” says chef Paul Farag. “The idea behind this meal is to create your own way, having every element separate. It becomes an interactive-style meal with family or friends.” 2 lamb spare rib racks (800gm each), 1 For chermoula, place ingredients cap on in a bowl, season to taste and stir well to combine. ½ cup each (loosely packed) mint, 2 Preheat oven to 140˚C. Place lamb ribs flat-leaf parsley and coriander leaves in a large roasting pan and season to Char-grilled flatbread, to serve taste. Spoon over half chermoula and rub all over lamb; roast until ribs are very CHERMOULA tender (3 hours). 3 Meanwhile, for tahini sauce, whisk 150 ml extra-virgin olive oil ingredients together in a bowl, then 2 garlic cloves, finely grated season to taste. Place over a double boiler before serving until 2½ tbsp lemon juice tahini sauce has warmed through 1 small red onion, finely chopped (3 minutes). Do not allow mixture to 1 cup each (firmly packed) flat-leaf get too hot or it will split. parsley and coriander leaves, 4 For burnt nut butter, heat a saucepan finely chopped over high heat. Add butter and swirl in 1 tsp each cumin and coriander pan until it begins to foam (5 minutes). seeds, toasted Remove from heat, add nuts, and stir to 1 tsp ras el hanout (see recipe p87) combine. Season to taste and keep 1⁄4 tsp each ground turmeric, paprika warm until ready to serve. and chili powder TAHINI SAUCE 5 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue or char-grill pan to high. When lamb is 280 gm plain yoghurt ready, barbecue lamb, turning 40 gm toum (see recipe p88) gently until browned all over (5 40 gm hulled tahini minutes). Cut ribs in pairs, transfer to a platter and drizzle 2 garlic cloves, finely grated with remaining chermoula and 3 tsp lemon juice burnt nut butter. Serve with herb salad, tahini sauce and BURNT NUT BUTTER charred flatbread on the side. ➤ 100 gm slightly salted butter 50 gm pine nuts 50 gm slivered almonds

86 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Grilled prawns, corn, Aalia’s sinuous saffron pine nut milk curves evoke the design of the SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 25 MINS MLC Centre (PLUS STANDING, COOLING) Dandelion cacik and ras el hanout crudités “This dish is a great solo dish or can be adjusted using smaller prawns and SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS DRAINING, COOLING) multiplying the recipe to accommodate a large group for meze or a shared dish,” “This is a great accompaniment to any spread,” says Farag. “It’s a Turkish version of says Farag. Pictured p83 tzatziki where we incorporate bitter greens, which work well with the sweetness of the lemon and yoghurt. If dandelion or bitter greens aren’t your thing, you can happily 3 corn cobs, husks and silks removed substitute Swiss chard or English spinach.” 1 cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley 500 gm plain yoghurt 3 Meanwhile, for cacik, bring a large leaves, coarsely chopped 2 bunches dandelion greens or chicory, saucepan three-quarters full with water Juice of 1 lemon stems discarded, leaves torn into to the boil. Blanch dandelion greens 1 red onion, finely chopped large pieces three times, for 30 seconds each time, 12 extra-large king prawns (about 1 Lebanese cucumber, coarsely grated then refresh in iced water. Drain and 700gm), peeled, deveined, heads 1 garlic clove, finely grated squeeze out as much water as possible; and tails intact Juice of 1 lemon finely chop leaves. Transfer to a bowl 1 finger lime, pearls removed 1 small taro (370gm; see note), peeled, with labne, cucumber, garlic and lemon shaved 2mm thick on a mandolin juice; season to taste and stir to SAFFRON PINE NUT MILK Vegetable oil, for deep-frying combine. 4 each mixed baby heirloom radishes, 4 For taro chips, preheat vegetable oil in 1 tsp (loosely packed) saffron turnips and carrots, trimmed, a large deep saucepan or deep-fryer to 280 gm pine nuts halved lengthways 190˚C. Deep-fry taro in batches, turning 2 tbsp coarsely chopped oregano, plus occasionally, until golden and crisp (2-3 1 tsp sea salt flakes extra leaves to serve minutes; be careful, hot oil will spit). Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling Drain on paper towel and season 1 For saffron pine nut milk, stir 350ml with salt and a little ras el hanout. water and saffron together in a bowl; RAS EL HANOUT 5 For crudités, place vegetables in stand for 30 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl, drizzle generously with a high-speed blender with pine nuts and 1 tbsp each cumin seeds and sweet olive oil, season with salt and scatter salt; blend until pine nut milk gets hot (10 paprika with a little ras el hanout and oregano. minutes). The idea is to blend the mixture Transfer to a serving bowl and serve with until it gets hot, and the natural oils are 3 tsp coriander seeds cacik, taro chips and scattered with extra released and emulsify. 2½ tsp black peppercorns ras el hanout. 2 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue or Note Ras el hanout, a fragrant Moroccan char-grill pan to high. Char-grill corn, 2 tsp fennel seeds spice blend, will keep in a jar for up to turning frequently, until blackened and 1 tsp ground nutmeg 3 months. Taro, a mild, starchy root cooked (10-15 minutes). Cool slightly, ½ tsp each cayenne pepper, ground vegetable, is available from Middle then cut kernels off cob and place in Eastern and Asian grocers. If a large bowl with parsley, lemon juice cardamom and ground cinnamon unavailable, substitute parsnip. ➤ and onion; season to taste and toss to combine. 1 For ras el hanout, place ingredients in 3 Thread prawns onto metal skewers a frying pan and heat, stirring frequently, through the centre lengthways, and until fragrant and toasted (1-2 minutes); char-grill, turning occasionally, until cool. Transfer to a mortar and pestle and charred and cooked (4 minutes); coarsely grind. season to taste. 2 For labne, place yoghurt into a sieve 4 Spoon half saffron and pine nut milk lined with muslin over a bowl, cover onto a large platter and top with prawn and refrigerate until slightly thickened skewers. Scatter with corn mixture, finger (1 hour). Discard whey and lime pearls and drizzle with extra-virgin refrigerate labne until required. olive oil. Serve with remaining saffron and pine nut milk on the side. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 87

Fried cauliflower Shawarma-spiced chicken with toum in baharat and tahini sauce SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 55 MINS (PLUS BRINING, RESTING) SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // “Shawarma spice is used on grilled meats throughout the Middle East,” explains COOK 1 HR 15 MINS (PLUS COOLING) Farag. “It’s something we make our own blend of. Here, we’ve shared a version of ours that uses cardamom and turmeric.” Begin this recipe a day ahead. “Fried cauliflower is a huge deal in the Middle East and is eaten almost 1.5 kg chicken, butterflied 3 Remove chicken from brine and year-round,” says Farag. “This version is 3 tsp citric acid pat dry. Place chicken, skin-side up in super simple and reminds me of my Extra-virgin olive oil, to serve a roasting pan fitted with a wire rack; childhood – eating it cold or piping hot.” drizzle with oil and scatter with 1 tbsp SHAWARMA SPICE shawarma spice (or as desired) and 1 bulb garlic season to taste. Stand until chicken 1 cauliflower (about 900gm), leaves 1 tbsp cumin seeds comes to room temperature 2 tsp each ground turmeric, coriander (30 minutes). intact, quartered 4 Preheat oven to 220˚C fan-forced. Vegetable oil, for deep-frying seeds and black peppercorns Roast chicken for 20 minutes then 225 gm hulled tahini 1½ tsp each cardamom seeds and reduce to 180˚C and roast until golden 80 ml (1/3 cup) lemon juice and just cooked (30 minutes); rest for Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling ground nutmeg 15 minutes before serving. 1 tsp each smoked paprika, garlic 5 For toum, place egg whites in BAHARAT a blender and blend on high until powder, ground cinnamon and white and frothy (8 minutes). Add 2 tbsp each sumac and coriander seeds onion powder lemon juice, garlic and 10gm sea 1½ tbsp cumin seeds and ground salt flakes, and blend for a further TOUM 2 minutes. Gradually add oil until cinnamon thick and emulsified (3 minutes); 1 tbsp each black peppercorns and 2 egg whites season to taste and transfer to 60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice a serving bowl. sweet paprika 12 garlic cloves (about 50gm), peeled 6 Place chicken on a large 3 tsp ground allspice 500 ml vegetable oil platter, scatter with extra 2 tsp ground nutmeg shawarma spice and drizzle 2½ tsp cardamom seeds 1 Place 2 litres water, 50gm fine salt and with olive oil. Serve with toum 2 tsp whole cloves citric acid In a large non-reactive on the side. ➤ container with a lid, and whisk until 1 For baharat, place ingredients in combined. Add chicken and submerge. a frying pan and heat, stirring frequently, If there is not enough liquid to cover the until fragrant and toasted (1-2 minutes); chicken, add a little more water. Cover cool completely. Transfer to a mortar and with lid and brine in the fridge overnight. pestle and finely grind. 2 Meanwhile, for shawarma spice, place 2 Preheat oven to 220˚C. Wrap garlic in ingredients in a frying pan and heat, foil and roast on bottom shelf of oven stirring frequently, until fragrant and until garlic is very soft (50 minutes). toasted (1-2 minutes); cool. Transfer to At the same time, place cauliflower on a mortar and pestle and finely grind. a large oven tray lined with baking paper; roast for 15 minutes. When garlic is ready, remove from oven and unwrap. Squeeze garlic from skin into a blender. 3 Meanwhile, for tahini sauce, add tahini, lemon juice, 150ml water, 2 tsp sea salt flakes to the blender and blend until smooth and a thick saucy consistency; season to taste. 4 Preheat vegetable oil in a large, deep saucepan or deep-fryer to 180˚C. Deep-fry cauliflower in batches, turning occasionally, until golden (2-3 minutes; be careful, hot oil will spit). Drain on paper towel and season with salt and scatter with a little baharat. 5 Spoon tahini sauce onto a large platter and top with cauliflower. Scatter with baharat and drizzle with olive oil. Note Baharat is a warm spice blend that varies by region and even household. Keep in a jar for up to 3 months. 88 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 89

Halawet el jibn and candied pine nuts SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS CHILLING, COOLING) “This is a popular dessert in the Levant using semolina – the Middle East loves wheat,” says Farag. “You can substitute very fine white polenta for semolina. This dish is best eaten the day of making, and with anything else you want such as dried fruit and nuts.” 320 fine white semolina 1 For halawet el jibn, place semolina glucose. Heat over high heat until 300 gm caster sugar and sugar in a large saucepan and temperature reaches 121˚C on a digital 560 gm finely grated akawi cheese whisk in 700ml cold water. Place thermometer. Using a large, long- over medium heat and cook, stirring handled metal spoon, stir in bicarbonate or mozzarella (see note) continuously, until heated through and of soda and a pinch of salt until 2 tbsp orange blossom water smooth (10 minutes). Stir in cheese until combined. Pour mixture over prepared 400 gm crème fraîche combined (5 minutes); remove from tray and spread evenly. Stand on a wire heat and stir in orange blossom. rack until cooled; coarsely crush when CANDIED PINE NUTS 2 Spread mixture into a 17.5cm x 27cm ready to serve. greased rectangular slice pan and 4 Remove halawet el jibn from fridge 200 gm caster sugar smooth top; refrigerate until cool and set and scatter with candied pine nuts. 100 gm pine nuts (45 minutes). Spoon over crème fraîche Serve immediately. 60 gm liquid glucose and return to fridge until ready to serve. Note Akawi is a soft unripened Middle 3 For candied pine nuts, grease and line Eastern brine cheese with a smooth 10 gm bicarbonate of soda a large oven tray with baking paper. texture and mild, salty flavour. It is Place 50ml water in a deep-sided available from select Middle Eastern saucepan with sugar, pine nuts and grocers. Rinse and drain before using. 90 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Coconut basbousa and fenugreek custard SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS INFUSING, RESTING) “Traditionally, basbousa is a very dry semolina cake that’s drenched in sugar syrup like baklava,” says Farag. “My version is like a soft pudding, there are no eggs in the base so you can have a soft centre and not worry about it setting.” 550 gm fine white semolina 300 ml sugar syrup (see note) 165 gm ghee, melted 150 gm desiccated coconut 160 ml (⅔ cup) milk 100 gm plain yoghurt 60 ml (¼ cup) coconut cream FENUGREEK CUSTARD 500 ml (2 cups) milk 1 tsp fenugreek seeds, toasted 110 gm caster sugar 60 gm custard powder 2 eggs 1 Heat milk in a saucepan over medium heat until steam appears. Stir in fenugreek, then remove from heat and infuse for 2 hours. 2 For basbousa, place semolina in the bowl of a stand mixer. On low-medium speed, beat in 220ml sugar syrup, ghee, coconut, milk, yoghurt and coconut cream until combined and smooth (2 minutes); transfer to a large bowl and set aside. 3 For fenugreek custard, clean electric mixer bowl, add sugar, custard powder and eggs, and using a paddle attachment, beat on high speed until thick and pale (5 minutes). Meanwhile, strain milk and return to pan; bring to the boil over high heat. Reduce speed to low and gradually add hot milk until combined. Place in a large heatproof bowl; cook over a double boiler over medium heat until custard coats the back of a wooden spoon thickly (4-5 minutes). The custard powder prevents custard from splitting and stabilises it during baking. 4 Preheat oven to 220˚C fan-forced. Divide basbousa among six 300ml ovenproof dishes and spread evenly over base then smooth top. Divide custard among dishes and smooth top. Place dishes on two large oven trays and bake until golden and blistered (15 minutes). Drizzle with remaining sugar syrup while pudding is hot; rest before serving. Note For sugar syrup, combine an equal quantity of sugar and water in a saucepan and boil to dissolve; cool completely. ●

PA S S AG E Words MICHAEL HARDEN Warrigal green shak bhaja p98 Pine mushroom malaikari p100 92 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

TO INDIA The spices of Bengali cuisine come to the table in a menu from Enter Via Laundry’s HELLY RAICHURA. Photography PARKER BLAIN Styling LEE BLAYLOCK Kosha mangsho p97 Sheemaur dhonay saag p98

For someone who champions tradition in Indian cooking, Helly Raichura POSTO BORA takes an approach that’s far from traditional. A self- and family-trained cook who was born and raised in Ahmedabad in India’s west, Raichura came to Wattleseed and Melbourne in 2007 to study human resources but, via an ongoing and poppy seed fritter ever-increasing love for cooking, ended up hosting one of the hottest food tickets in town in her own home. Enter Via Laundry, so-named because guests (10 per night) MAKES 10 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 10 MINS literally entered her home through the laundry, served multiple, intricately plated (PLUS REFRIGERATING, COOLING) versions of the Indian food Raichura loved but couldn’t find in Melbourne. “Posto is the Indian name for poppy Fast-forward a couple of years, past the waiting list that grew to the thousands seeds,” explains Helly Raichura. “I love and a series of pop-ups after using her home as a restaurant lost its charm, and the mix of wattleseeds and poppy seeds Enter Via Laundry now has a permanent home in North Carlton. It’s retained because they are equally delicious.\" the name despite the lack of laundry and the approach has changed a little too. Instead of plating and serving multiple dishes fine-dining style, Raichura is more 80 gm white poppy seeds (see note) closely emulating the way the food would be served “back home”. 10 gm finely ground wattleseeds, plus Raichura also has a mission to emphasise how different Indian cuisine can be extra for scattering from region to region. This winter in her restaurant, she’s focusing on Bengali 1 spring onion, finely chopped food and the recipes she has created for this issue are all from that region and that 1 long green chilli, finely chopped menu. Some of them have been simplified slightly “to make them achievable” but 30 gm moist coconut flakes (such as others are exactly as you would eat them in the restaurant or Bengal. McKenzies) “Bengali food is mustard-heavy and combines vegetable dishes with seafood ½ tsp caster sugar and meat, usually goat or lamb,” she says. “The cooking reflects the native food of 1 tbsp mustard oil, plus extra, for the landscape so there is hardly any onions or garlic or tomatoes. But – good for winter which is why I chose this region – there are lots of potatoes.” shallow-frying Julienned green chilli, sweet and “Spices change in intensity depending on where you get them so you need sour Indian pickles and steamed rice, to develop dasir,” says Raichura, “a word that means understanding the to serve characteristics of spice; which ones are unforgiving, like turmeric, and which ones are less forceful, like cinnamon. Once you learn these you can play 1 Heat a frying pan over medium heat. around – you may not even need a recipe!” Add poppy seeds and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly toasted (1 minute). Nicholson St, Carlton North, Vic, entervialaundry.com.au Remove from heat and cool completely. Transfer to a spice grinder or small high-speed blender and finely grind. 2 Transfer poppy seeds to a large bowl with wattleseeds, spring onion, chilli, coconut, sugar, mustard oil and 60ml water; season to taste and, using your hands, work mixture until moisture is absorbed and forms a soft dough that can hold its shape. Add a little extra water if the dough is too dry. Divide dough into 10 portions (1 packed tbsp each) and form into 5cm discs. Place on a tray lined with baking paper and refrigerate for 30 minutes to firm up. 3 Heat 2mm mustard oil in a large non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat. Add discs, cook (1-2 minutes) on each side or until golden and cooked through. 4 Transfer to a serving bowl, scatter with extra wattleseeds and chilli and serve with pickles, rice and mains. Note White poppy seeds (posto), a mild, nutty version of blue or black poppy seeds, are available from Indian grocers and herbies.com.au. If unavailable, substitute blue or black poppy seeds. 94 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Beetroot Hindi SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 50 MINS (PLUS COOLING) This is from the indisputable king of Bengali cookbooks: The Calcutta Cookbook by Minakshie Das Gupta, Bunny Gupta and Jaya Chaliha. “It’s a dish designed to prepare your stomach for the spicy foods to come,” explains Raichura. 8 baby beetroots, trimmed sliced chilli. Cook, stirring continuously, 2½ tbsp mustard oil until lightly toasted (30 seconds – 1 minute); stand until ready to serve. ¼ tsp each whole fenugreek, aniseed 3 Place yoghurt, asafoetida, remaining and carom seeds (see note) chilli, ground coriander and lime juice in a bowl; season to taste and stir ½ tsp ground turmeric to combine. 1 tsp red chilli powder 4 To serve, spoon yoghurt over 1 long green chilli, thinly sliced base of serving bowl and top 200 gm natural yoghurt with roasted beetroots. Drizzle with infused oil and scatter Pinch of crushed asafoetida, soaked with coriander leaves. in 1 tsp water (see note) Note Asafoetida, carom 1 tbsp ground coriander seeds (ajwain) and 1 tbsp lime juice fenugreek are used in Coriander leaves, to serve Indian cuisine to aid digestion. In its raw form 1 Preheat oven to 180˚C. Place beetroot asafoetida is unpleasant in a roasting pan and cover with foil. tasting, however when Roast for 45-50 minutes or until beetroot cooked, it imparts a deep is cooked but still with a crunch. Set savoury taste. All these aside until cool enough to handle; peel spices are available from skin and discard. spice shops, Indian grocers 2 Meanwhile, heat mustard oil in a small and herbies.com.au. ➤ saucepan over medium heat. Add fenugreek, aniseed, and carom seeds with turmeric, chilli powder and half



KOSHA MANGSHO Mughlai lamb curry SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 1 HR 45 MINS (PLUS MARINATING) “This is a very Mughlai recipe, a cuisine that was introduced to the region after the Mongol invasions in the 1300s, so there is more meat and onions involved,” says Raichura. “It’s basically caramelised onions and meat.” Begin this recipe a day ahead. 1.25 kg boneless lamb shoulder, cut into remaining ground spices and cook until 3cm pieces spices are fragrant, and onion is lightly caramelised (1-2 minutes). 2 tbsp mustard oil 3 Add marinated lamb to saucepan and 8 cloves cook stirring until lightly browned and 6 green cardamom pods coated in onion mixture (6-8 minutes). 4 bay leaves Stir in yoghurt with 1 litre water and bring 1 cinnamon quill to a simmer 2 large brown onions (about 500gm), (3-4 minutes). Reduce heat to very low, cover partially with a lid and cook, thinly sliced stirring frequently, until lamb starts to 3 tsp finely grated ginger tenderise (1 hour). Remove lid and cook, 2 garlic cloves, finely grated stirring frequently, until lamb is very 1 tsp each ground coriander, ground tender, dark brown and sauce has thickened (35-45 minutes); season to cumin and ground turmeric taste. If sauce starts to dry out add extra 2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder water, a little at a time. 200 gm plain Greek-style yoghurt 4 Meanwhile, for luchi, in a large bowl, mix flour, spinach, oil, 100ml water and a Sliced green chilli and steamed rice, pinch of fine cooking salt by hand until to serve combined. If dough is too dry, add a little extra water 1 tbsp at a time; knead until MARINADE dough is firm and smooth (5-8 minutes). Rest dough for 15 minutes. Roll dough 100 gm Greek-style yoghurt into 25gm balls and place on a lined 2 small brown onions, coarsely oven trays; loosely cover with plastic chopped wrap and stand for a further 15 minutes. 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 5 Half fill a large saucepan with extra oil 1 tsp ground turmeric and heat over high heat to 180˚C. Roll 2 tsp shahi garam masala (see note) each ball of dough to 8cm discs on a work surface. Deep-dry luchi, in LUCHI batches, turning halfway, until puffed and golden (40 seconds - 1 minute each 250 gm plain flour, sifted side). Drain on paper towel. 2 tbsp finely chopped spinach 6 To serve, transfer kosha mangsho to a serving bowl and top with green chilli 1¼ tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra, for with luchi and rice on the side. deep-frying Note Shahi garam masala, a spice blend unique to Indian cuisine and culture, is 1 For marinade, place ingredients in available from Indian grocers and a blender and blend to a smooth paste. herbies.com.au. ➤ Transfer to a non-reactive container with a lid, add lamb and toss to coat well. Cover with lid and marinate in fridge overnight. 2 For kosha mangsho sauce, heat mustard oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat until just starting to smoke. Add whole spices and stir until lightly toasted (30 seconds - 1 minute). Add onions, ginger and garlic, and cook, stirring frequently, until onions start to caramelise (5-6 minutes). Scatter over G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 97

SHEEMAUR DHONAY SAAG SHAK BHAJA Green beans and coriander stir-fry Stir-fried warrigal greens and vegetables SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 10 MINS SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 25 MINS “Traditionally, this dish is often made with broad beans,” says Raichura, “but you can use any kind of bean you like – even snow peas work here. The most important thing is they “Jute leaves would traditionally be used have a bit of crunch.” here but they’re almost impossible to get in Australia and importing them 200 gm picked coriander sprigs 1 Place coriander, ginger and chilli with would be against the local nature of 1 tbsp finely grated ginger 2 tbsp mustard oil and 60ml cold water Bengali cuisine,” says Raichura. “I love 1 long green chilli, thinly sliced in a blender and blend to a paste. the texture of warrigal greens but you Set aside. can use spinach here too.” 80 ml (⅓ cup) mustard oil 2 Heat a large frying pan with remaining ½ tsp nigella seeds mustard oil over medium-high heat. 300 gm Desiree potatoes, peeled, cut into 3 tsp caster sugar Add nigella seeds and cook, stirring, rough 1cm pieces 400 gm green beans, trimmed, cut into until lightly toasted (30 seconds). Stir in paste and sugar and cook, stirring 300 gm Kent pumpkin, peeled, seeds 2.5cm lengths continuously, until fragrant and lightly removed, cut into rough 2cm pieces Edible flowers, to serve toasted (1-2 minutes). 3 Add beans and cook until beans are 1 tsp finely grated ginger just cooked and still with a crunch 1 long green chilli, seeds removed, (3-5 minutes); season to taste, transfer to a serving plate and scatter with edible finely chopped flowers. ½ tsp ground turmeric 2½ tbsp mustard oil ½ tsp nigella seeds 2 red dried chillies ½ tsp caster sugar 300 gm picked warrigal greens or baby spinach, stalks removed 1 Place potato and pumpkin in a saucepan and fill three-quarters full with water. Place over high heat and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook until vegetables are three- quarters cooked (15-18 minutes). Drain and stand until ready to use. 2 Meanwhile, combine ginger, chilli and turmeric in a small bowl with ½ tbsp water. 3 Heat a large frying pan with mustard oil over medium-high heat. Add nigella seeds and cook for 30 seconds, then add ginger mixture, and cook until fragrant (1 minute). Add sugar and cook until starting to caramelise (30 seconds). Add potatoes and pumpkin, and cook, stirring until just cooked (4-6 minutes). Add warrigal greens and cook until wilted (1-2 minutes). Season to taste, transfer to a serving bowl and serve with mains. Note Warrigal greens are easy to grow at home, or can be foraged from coastal areas, where permitted. Warrigal greens are available from farmers’ markets, select greengrocers or online. ➤ 98 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

“Spices change in intensity depending on where you get them so you need to develop dasir... understanding the characteristics of spice.”

Pine mushroom malaikari SHORSHE CHINGRI SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 25 MINS Bengali prawns and seablite “This dish references the strong trading relationship between India and Malaysia,” explains Raichura, “hence the addition of onion and ginger. It’s often served with crab SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 6 MINS in India but any nutty-flavoured mushrooms work really well.” (PLUS MARINATING) 80 ml (⅓ cup) mustard oil 1 tbsp ground cardamom “Shorshe is a typical marinade for the 3 cloves 1 For garam masala, place spices in region using a lot of mustard,” says 2 cardamom pods a small frying pan over medium heat and Raichura. “I put a bit of sugar in any dish 1 each cinnamon quill and bay leaf toast, swirling in pan, stirring frequently, that uses mustard as it helps to balance until toasted and fragrant (1-2 minutes); the acidity.” Begin recipe a day ahead. 120 gm red onion, finely chopped in set aside until required. blender 2 Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a large 2 tbsp yellow mustard seeds frying pan over medium-high heat. 60 gm natural yoghurt 1 tbsp caster sugar Add cloves, cardamom, cinnamon and 80 gm (⅓ cup) melted ghee bay, cook, stirring frequently, until 1 tbsp caster sugar fragrant and lightly toasted ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 tbsp finely grated ginger (10-20 seconds). Add onion and sugar 1 long green chilli, finely chopped ½ tsp ground turmeric and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly 30 gm grated fresh coconut 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder (see browned (6-8 minutes). Stir in 2 tbsp 100 ml mustard oil ghee and ginger and cook, stirring 12 large green king prawns, peeled, note) continuously, until oil separates from 60 gm natural yoghurt mixture (4-5 minutes). deveined, heads and tails intact 100 ml coconut milk 3 Reduce heat to medium and add Seablite and steamed rice, to serve 250 ml coconut cream turmeric, chilli powder, 2 tbsp garam 400 gm pine mushrooms, trimmed masala and yoghurt; cook, stirring 1 Place mustard seeds in a small bowl continuously, until combined (5 minutes). and cover with 160ml cold water; leave Baby coriander leaves, to serve Stir in coconut milk and cream; season to to stand at room temperature overnight. taste. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to 2 Meanwhile, place yoghurt in a fine GARAM MASALA medium and simmer, stirring frequently, sieve lined with muslin over a bowl and until slightly thickened (8-12 minutes). refrigerate for 2 hours to drain. 1 tbsp ground cinnamon 4 Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 tbsp 3 Place mustard seeds and soaking 1 tbsp ground cloves ghee in a frying pan over high heat. water in a blender with sugar, turmeric, Add mushrooms and cook, stirring chilli, coconut and 60ml mustard oil, and occasionally, until lightly golden blend until combined. Transfer to (4-5 minutes). a large bowl, stir in yoghurt, add prawns, 5 Spoon malaikari sauce into a serving season to taste and toss to combine; bowl and top with mushrooms. Scatter marinate for 1 hour before cooking. with baby coriander leaves and serve. 4 Preheat a large frying pan with Note Store extra garam masala in an remaining 2 tbsp mustard oil over airtight container for up to 3 months. medium-high heat. Add prawns and Kashmiri red chilli powder is available spoon in marinade. Cover with a lid from Indian grocers and herbies.com.au. and cook, turning occasionally, until If pine mushrooms are not available, lightly golden and cooked through substitute mixed seasonal mushrooms. (5-6 minutes). Season to taste, transfer to a platter, spoon over pan juices, scatter with seablite and serve with steamed rice. Note Seablite, a coastal plant available in Australia, grows in salty mudflats and saline estuaries. It can be eaten raw, steamed, stir-fried or blanched and is a great complement to seafood dishes. ● 100 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R