Textile design Internship | Report NATURAL DYEING 2021
2021 Internship | Report Textile design
Textile design Internship | Report PROFESSIONAL PROJECT DOCUMENTATION Submitted in partial fulfillment of the academic requirement of Bachelor of Design ( Textile design semester VII ) National Institute of Fashion Technology CHENNAI Mohammed safwan B-des Textile design 2021
04 Textile design Internship | Report CCopyright ©2021 Student document publication meant for private circulation only All rights reserved Professional project - Bachelor of Design Textile Design, 2021 National Institute of Fashion Technology,Chennai No part of this document will be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means. Information by Mohammed safwan Semester VII Textile Design Guided by Dr.MK Gandhi Processed at, National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) Chennai,Tamilnadu 600 113 2021
Textile design Internship | Report AAcknowledgementThis journey would not have been possible without the following people whom I would like to thank and will always be grateful for -I would like to thank my faquilty mentor, Dr.MK Gandh who was a continuous source of guidance and support throughout the proj- ect. 2021
06 Textile design Internship | Report Ooverview 10th june - 9th august Time Period Mohammed safwan Student Name Natural dyeing Project Dr.MK Gandhi Faculty Mentor 2021
Textile design 2021 Internship | Report
2021 Internship | Report Textile design
CONTENTSTextile design 03 01 Dyes Internship | Report About Termeric 24 Onion 26 Introduction 10 Roots of natural dye 11 Manjistha 28 Nature of natural dye 12 Harda 30 Advantages of natural dye 13 Disadvantages of natural dye 16 Rathanjot 32 Red sandal 34 02 Banana 36 Process Red spinach 38 Process 20 Teak leaf 40 steps involved 22 Garden croton 42 Techniques 24 lemon leaf 44 Mango leaf 46 Almond leaf 48 2021 Conclusion 56
10 Textile design ANatural Hues and Wholeness Internship | Report Natural Hues and Wholeness of futurism and zen living, the The nature is at its play, with quest for transparency and the the ubiquitous green pigment mod need for authenticity and chlorophyll helping to capture new ways for subsistence. sun’s energy and convert it to The application of natural dyes chemical energy, to the beauti- is myriad, from textile, paints, ful vibrant colours of the flow- medicine, solar cells, to furni- ers and fruits to attract insects ture, cosmetics, food, paper or animals either for pollina- amongst many of its’ uses. The tion or for the purpose of seed rebirth of the natural dyes is dispersal. There is a broad inherent to conscious consum- spectrum of beautiful natural erism. The utilisation of natural colours ranging from yellow dye has moved from catering to black, exhibited by various not only niche- market but also organic and inorganic mole- the commercial mass market. cules and their mixture due The tag of natural dye product to the absorption of light. The adopted by companies has abundance of colour around generated for them income, us with which we co — exist gain of brand value and has and how naturally we are built also helped them to earn loyal to depend on it for sustenance, consumers. highlights its importance for in- A merger of the old with the corporating it with our lifestyle. new As, natural dyes compli- Natural dyeing as a trend, is ments well with the soaring borne through the zeitgeists technological advancement of our era which is moving and has become a channel to towards clear conscience. attend its viable capacity. It is The climate change and the an enterprise that preserves ensuing call for environmen- age old dyeing traditions and tal awareness, the constant which also weaves crude antiq- 2021 pursuit of wellness, the blend uity with fresh aesthetics.
Textile design RRoots of natural dye rin from the 4th century BC. In Internship | Report The art of dyeing is as old as 55 BC Romans found painted human civilisation. Earliest people “picti” in Gaul dyeing 2021 written record of the use of themselves with woad (same dyes is in China comes from chemical content of colour as year 2,600 BC. (Kramell, 2014) indigo). The Phoenician dye Even before people began to industry, begun in 15th century spin yarn and weave cloth, they BC, was renowned for its Tyrian applied colored earth, plant purple, or royal purple ob- saps and juices directly to their tained from a species of shell- skin: this was the first type of fish processed in the city of cosmetics. Women in Mediter- Tyre, which actually produced ranean region applied alkanet a range of colors from red to as rouge and lipstick and used blue, including violet. India, the chamomile and henna to dye country whose dyeing practic- their hair. Indians in South es have exercised the greatest America prepared a paste of influence on European dyers annato seeds for painting their from the 16th century, had dye bodies. The use of colorants industry extending to the peri- dates back thousands of years od of the Indus Valley civiliza- in all societies around the tion ca 2500 BC. Start of 16th globe. The use of cochineal century was the time when as a textile and paint dye in France, Holland and Germany Mexico and Peru dates back began the cultivation of dye almost 3,000 years. Alizarin, plants as an industry. Natural purprin and indigo were iden- dyes were used for colouring tified in the Late Bronze Age of textiles till the 19th century on textiles found in Chinese when synthetic dyes pushed Yanghai. Prehistoric discoveries them out. Dyeing with plants of textiles in Europe document enjoyed a rebirth of popularity the use of alizarin and purpu-
12 Textile design Internship | Report NNature of natural dye Benzoquinone dyes 4. Flavo- Dyes have complex chemi- noid dyes 5. Carotenoid dyes 6. cal structures, their chemical Tannin-based dyes. names are difficult to under- stand and remember and com- mon names are in the local languages and are area specif- ic, a colour index has been de- veloped for identifying the dyes published by the Society of Dy- ers and Colourists (SDC), Unit- ed Kingdom and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists (AATCC), Unit- ed States. In the colour index, dyes are classified according to major application classes. Within the application class, the dyes are arranged accord- ing to the hue. On the basis of major chemical constituents present, they are divided into: 1. Indigoid dyes 2. Anthraqui- none dyes 3. Naphthoquino ne, 2021
Textile design NATURAL 2021 Internship | Report
14 Textile design AAdvantages of natural dyes Advantages of Natural Dye 3. The natural dyes are usually Due to the growth of education renewable, being agro-renew- Internship | Report and awareness, responsible able/vegetable based and at customer is beginning to form: the same time biodegradable. costumers are interested in the impact of purchased product 4. Wasteland utilisation, as on the environment. The sourc- many plants thrive on waste- es of synthetic dyes are limit- lands. ed (oil, coal), the production 5. The waste produced be- of synthetic dyes pollutes the comes an ideal fertiliser for use water and the environment by in agricultural fields. toxic wastes. On the other 6. Natural dyes generate sus- hand, sources of natural dyes tainable employment and are continually renewed in income for the weaker section nature. of population in rural and 1. Natural dyes are mostly sub-urban areas both for dye- non-toxic, non-allergic. Some ing. of the natural colours have 7. Natural dyes has potential to added value for its medicinal earn carbon credit by effects on skin and are more reducing consumption of fossil than skin friendly. fuel based synthetic dyes. 2. Natural dye can produce a 8. The pastel shades produced wide range of colours, which by natural dyes are usually are not easily obtainable with soft, lustrous and soothing to synthetic dyes. the human eye. 2021
14Textile design 9. Many of the natural dyes tion of medicinal compounds Internship | Report absorb in the ultraviolet region through the skin. and therefore fabrics dyed with such dyes should offer good protection from ultraviolet light. Improvement in UV protection characteristics of natural cellu- losic fibers after treatment with natural dyes has been reported by various researchers. 10. The use of natural dyes also preserves the ancient and tra- ditional dyeing technology. It is also useful to understand the conservation and restoration of heritage of old textiles. 11. Textiles dyed with materials like myrobolon fruits, turmeric, manjishth root, Arjuna (Termi- nalia arjuna) bark, and safflow- er florets, among others which possess curative properties also possess healing properties by absorp- 2021
16 Textile design DDisantages of natural dyes Disadvantages of Natural Dye 2. Tedious Application Process. Countries such as Mexico, Industrial use of dyes from Internship | Report India, China or Peru are the plants for dyeing of fibres is largest exporters of natural considerably limited by their dyes. Business with natural high costs. 3. Fastness Proper- dyes is still growing, but only ties. Natural dyes have a sig- its small part is applied to nificantly lower affinity to fibres, textile dyeing. Greater part which causes the lower dye-ex- consists of dyes for food co- haustion from bath on fibres. louring, because the pressure on healthier foods is growing, 4. When dyeing a textile, we and there is thus a need to need one kilogram of dye plant replace synthetic colourings for one kilogram of fibres. by healthier natural products. This creates a need to handle Natural dyes are considered to a large amount of biomass be an eco-friendly alternative for obtaining them, thereby for dyeing of textile materials, producing large quantities of especially natural fiber textiles. waste. However, there are many lim- 5. At the same time cost for itations in the usage of natural transporting large volumes of dyes some of which are listed plant material from the place below. 1.Resistance to agents of harvest to the place of pro- that cause fading of textiles cessing is rising. (washing, light, perspiration, 6. Indiscriminate harvesting etc.). Textiles must offer a great and tree cutting only for dyeing range of colours and must be purposes is sure to damage cost effective. The high number trees and lead to deforestation. of synthetic dyes is justified due 7. The need to use mordants is to the demands of industry another serious problem in the and consumers . dyeing with natural dyes. 2021
Textile design BBrief ( flowers and leaves ... ), Explor- Internship | Report To explore and experiment ing embroidery stitches that using Natural dyeing and can add value when combined printing techniques on a vari- with the natural dyed fabric. ety of fabrics in combination By analysing the explorations with embroidery to developing design and develop a men’s an apparel design collection. wearable shirt that is sustain- Understanding the potential of able and aesthetic. eco-friendly methods in design Understand the various merits, development. Also to identify demerits and possibilities of the challenges associated with natural dyeing and sustainable it. To learn about the impor- fashion. To develop the skillset tance of sustainable textile for and idea to effectively utilise a better future. natural sources to develop an aesthetic and functional de- Process signer garment. Starting with initial explora- tions that is to experiment fabric dyeing using natural dyes obtained from a variety of sources such as plants, fruits and vegetables. Also to try out different print designs and layouts using nat- ural sources credits : textiletoday.com.bd 2021
18 Textile design Internship | ReportPProcess Steps involved 1.Grinding the spices, cutting leaves into small pieces. 2.Boiling and preparing dyes for around half an hour. Let it boil for more time period if more pigmented dye is need- ed. 3.Add some table salt and 1/2 cup vinegar in Fresh water and dip your Fabric into it.. The vin- egar and salt work together to naturally lock the color into the fabric. Let the fabric soak in the water for 14 hours. Then dip it fresh water and let dry. 4.After the fabrics were com- pletely prepared I tried tie and dye, scrunching and folding methods to give it different patterns and left some fabrics sock plainly. 2021
Textile design Internship | Report PProduction process Fabric is washed Fabric is mordanted using alum Fabric is washed and dried Cut into swatches Raw materials is boiled and dye is prepaired Immersing the fabric in dye for a specific time Drying the fabric 2021
20 Textile design Internship | Report MMordanting dyeing process the dye reacts with the mor- Mordanting is the most important process dant, forming a chemical bond and attach- of preparing fibers to accept color. Using a ing it firmly to the fabric. mordant helps to ensure the most durable The choice of mordant depends upon the and long-lasting colors. fabric. An alkali mordant, such as soda ash, Mordant is added to the dye source to works well with cotton, and acid mordant influence it, it does not serve as a color such as vinegar works well with wool. source on its own. The fabric is impreg- nated with the mordant, then during the 2021
Textile MORDANTdesign 2021 Internship | Report
22 Textile design Internship | ReportFFeel of fabric As the ink is permeated into the fabric there is no additional layer formed. Thus retaining the feel of the fabric. And there are no cracks formed on the print. Colour fastness Fabric printed through subli- mation printing can withstand upto 100 washes or even last as the actual fabric itslef. Variety Sublimation print has less va- riety of substrate as it can only adhere to poleyster coated materials. A minimum of 60% polyester 40% cotton composition is nec- essary for sublimation print- ing. A 100% polyster fabric will have more vibrance than a 60% polyster 40% cotton blend. Only white or light coloured fabric can be printed using sublimation printing. 2021
Textile design AApparatus Sublimation Paper Internship | Report Sublimation inks Sublimation Inks are in es- If you use normal photo copy sence a formulation of special paper too much of the ink coloured dyes suspended in would absorb into the paper liquids that can be passed itself and not enough would be through a digital ink jet printer. ‘Sublimated’ into the material. Sublimation paper has a coat- During the heat press stage ing on the surface which effec- the pores of these polymers tively means the ink sits on the open to allow sublimation ink paper without ever thoroughly (now in a gaseous state) to en- drying. ter. As the temperature drops the pores close leaving the now solid ink image as part of the polymer. What Materials Cannot Be Sublimation Printed? As Sublimation is always per- formed on a polyester, polymer or polymer coated item, mate- rials such 100% cotton are not suitable as the natural fibres have no pores to open to ac- cept the image. Cotton can be sublimated but the image will fade with a few washes. 2021
Internship | Report24 Textile design TTermeric chiffon PROCESS linen Put some Alum in the pot and add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Now, take the dye pot and put turmeric and 2-3 cups of water in the pot, also submerge the fabrics. And put it on the heat source. Hold the water on the steam- ing temerature for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes remove the fabric from the dye pot and then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of turmeric, and has become beautiful yellow. 2021
Textile design silk Internship | Report cotton cotton 2021
Internship | Report26 Textile design OOnion chiffon PROCESS linen Put some Alum in the first pot and 2021 add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to 1hour. Similarly put some Vinegar in the second pot and add water in it and and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Put Onion skins in the dye pot with 3-4 cups of water. Hold the water on the steaming temerature for 15-20 minutes. Now, take Stainless Steel dye pots and transfer the water of Onion Skins equally and put it on the heat source, simultanously add the Alum fabric in the first pot and Vinegar fabric in second pot. Hold the water on the steaming temerature not on boiling tem- perature for 1 hour. Then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of Onion skins, Olive in color. The Alum fabric has come out little darker than the Vinegar fabric.
Textile design silk Internship | Report cotton cotton 2021
Internship | Report28 Textile design MManjistha chiffon PROCESS linen Put some Alum in the first pot and add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to 1hour. Similarly put some Vinegar in the second pot and add water in it and and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Put manjistha in the dye pot with 3-4 cups of water. Hold the water on the steaming temerature for 15-20 minutes. Now, take Stainless Steel dye pots and transfer the water of Onion Skins equally and put it on the heat source, simultanously add the Alum fabric in the first pot and Vinegar fabric in second pot. Hold the water on the steaming temerature not on boiling tem- perature for 1 hour. Then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of manjistha, and has become redish orange. 2021
Textile design silk Internship | Report cotton cotton 2021
Internship | Report30 Textile design HHarda chiffon PROCESS linen Put some Alum in the pot and add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Now, take the dye pot and put harda and 2-3 cups of water in the pot, also submerge the fabrics. And put it on the heat source. Hold the water on the steaming temerature for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes remove the fabric from the dye pot and then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of harda, and has become beautiful olive green. 2021
Textile design silk Internship | Report cotton cotton 2021
Internship | Report32 Textile design RRathanjot chiffon PROCESS linen Put some Alum in the pot and add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Now, take the dye pot and put rathanjot and 2-3 cups of water in the pot, also submerge the fabrics. And put it on the heat source. Hold the water on the steaming temerature for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes remove the fabric from the dye pot and then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of turmeric, and has become beauti- ful light purple. 2021
Textile design silk Internship | Report cotton cotton 2021
Internship | Report34 Textile design RRed sandal chiffon PROCESS linen Put some Alum in the pot and add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Now, take the dye pot and put red sandal and 2-3 cups of water in the pot, also submerge the fabrics. And put it on the heat source. Hold the water on the steaming temerature for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes remove the fabric from the dye pot and then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of turmeric, and has become beauti- ful blood red. 2021
Textile design silk Internship | Report cotton cotton 2021
Internship | Report36 Textile design BBanana peel chiffon PROCESS linen Put some Alum in the pot and add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Now, take the dye pot and put ba- nana peel and 2-3 cups of water in the pot, also submerge the fabrics. And put it on the heat source. Hold the water on the steaming temerature for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes remove the fabric from the dye pot and then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of turmeric, and has become ash black . 2021
Textile design silk Internship | Report cotton cotton 2021
Internship | Report38 Textile design RRed spinach chiffon PROCESS linen Put some Alum in the pot and add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Now, take the dye pot and put red spinach and 2-3 cups of water in the pot, also submerge the fabrics. And put it on the heat source. Hold the water on the steaming temerature for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes remove the fabric from the dye pot and then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of turmeric, and has become redish grey. 2021
Textile design silk Internship | Report cotton tye dye 2021
Internship | Report40 Textile design TTeak leaf chiffon PROCESS linen Put some Alum in the pot and add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Now, take the dye pot and put teak leaf and 2-3 cups of water in the pot, also submerge the fabrics. And put it on the heat source. Hold the water on the steaming temerature for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes remove the fabric from the dye pot and then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of turmeric, and has become brown- ish red. 2021
Textile design silk Internship | Report cotton cotton 2021
Internship | Report42 Textile design GGarden croton Silk PROCESS Put some Alum in the pot and add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Now, take the dye pot and put cro- ton leaf and 2-3 cups of water in the pot, also submerge the fabrics. And put it on the heat source. Hold the water on the steaming temerature for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes remove the fabric from the dye pot and then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of turmeric, and has become beauti- ful ochre brown. 2021
Textile design Internship | Report Linen cotton 2021
Internship | Report44 Textile design LLemon leaf chiffon PROCESS linen Put some Alum in the pot and add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Now, take the dye pot and put lemon leaf and 2-3 cups of water in the pot, also submerge the fab- rics. And put it on the heat source. Hold the water on the steaming temerature for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes remove the fabric from the dye pot and then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of turmeric, and has become beauti- ful greenish yellow. 2021
Textile design silk Internship | Report cotton cotton 2021
Internship | Report46 Textile design MMango leaf chiffon PROCESS linen Put some Alum in the pot and add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Now, take the dye pot and put mango leaf and 2-3 cups of water in the pot, also submerge the fab- rics. And put it on the heat source. Hold the water on the steaming temerature for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes remove the fabric from the dye pot and then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of turmeric, and has become beauti- ful green. 2021
Textile design silk Internship | Report cotton cotton 2021
Internship | Report48 Textile design AAlmond leaf chiffon PROCESS linen Put some Alum in the pot and add some water in it, and soak the cotton fabric piece in it for around 45minutes to lhour, and then dry the fabrics. Now, take the dye pot and put almond leaf and 2-3 cups of water in the pot, also submerge the fab- rics. And put it on the heat source. Hold the water on the steaming temerature for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes remove the fabric from the dye pot and then flat dry the fabric without washing. And do not iron. RESULT: After drying we will see that the fabric has absorbed the color of turmeric, and has become light orange. 2021
Textile design silk Internship | Report cotton cotton 2021
2021 Internship | Report Textile design
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