Sparta Guide

centre, a key religious “passage” and honoured Hyacinth at thefor the inhabitants of the entire beginning, and Apollo later, itancient Lacedaemon, while it held the entire first day of thewas referenced in Homer’s Iliad festival. The other two days, theand in the glorified worship of faithful, enjoying cease-fire andHyacinth initially and of Apollo, allowing even to the Helots tolater. God Apollo killed the participate, formed an enormousformer accidentally, who was parade, from Sparta up to thethe son of the mythological “kome” of Amykles, transportingAmyklas and connected, like the holy robe that the city’shis father, with vegetation and virgins had weaved. At the placefertility. During the “Hyacinthea”, where the village of Agia Kyriakia famous three-day festival stands today, in the end of theof Laconia that was organised 6th century B.C Bathykles builteither during the last days of the “Throne”, a magnificentMay or the first days of June, temple in the shape of the letter 101

The famous golden cups that were site, the renowned Mycenaeanfound under the floor of the vaulted vaulted tomb, the largest intomb. (National Archaeological Laconia, with a diameter ofMuseum of Athens)96\NDV 10.20 metres, a path of 30 metres and an opening just“Π”, which, roofless, enclosed under 3.5 metres. The tholosin its three sides the colossal of this courtly grave may havestatue of Apollo, with the tomb served as a structural elementof Hyacinth as its base. What an for Christian temples and otherunbelievable spectacle it might nearby buildings; however thehave been, a true sight for sore archaeological excavations shedeyes... light to the two marvellous golden “Vafeio Cups”, someTwo kilometres to the east, golden rings, silver fibulaeat Vafeio, lying inside a and many weapons. The two golden cups of the Mycenaean beautiful olive grove, there era, which are now kept at the is a significant National Archaeological Museum archaeological of Athens, undoubtedly prove the significance of the era during that time. They are dated back to the 2nd millennium BC and are considered one of the most significant archaeological discoveries in the entire Greek territory. They are identical in shape and have varied decorative102

Scene depicting the peaceful capture elements, as they both depictof a bull, in a landscape with olive the capture of bulls, but intrees96\NDV entirely different ways. The one represents a bull being chased and captured in a net made of rope, while in the other a female animal is used The Tomb of Vafeio/V. Sykas 103

The excavation site of Agios Vasileios in Xirokambi/Ministry of Cultureas bate to capture the bull. So the Laconian plain betweenwhen the male flirts carefree, Taygetus, Parnon and Eurotas...his foot is trapped in a loop. Following the historic andIf we take into account all the archaeological evidence, sincehistorical and archaeological the entire area is characterisedparameters, it is very likely that by a breathtaking Mycenaeanthese bulls were destined for the “air” of the past, one turns“taurokathapsia” (bull-leaping), right at the intersection leadingwhile the Mycenaean domed to Xirokambi, at the eleventhtomb of Vafeio has been the kilometre from the town ofobject of many archaeological Sparta, and proceeds left onstudies. In addition, thanks an accessible small dirt road.to the aforementioned items, The traveller, like a modernit is highly regarded by “Pausanias”, starts, at Agiosthe international scientific Vasilios, to read, in the quietnesscommunity. of a cool olive grove, about the rescue excavation of 2009However, another site, which is which brought to light extensiveapparently connected with this traces of Mycenaean structurestomb, and was famed among the and in total, since then andolder and newer residents of the until now, a large number ofarea, called vividly “Palaiopyrgi”, Linear B’ scripts, an entirely newis virtually unknown to the and unprecedented case fortravellers and a large part of Laconia. Nearly all plates makethe archaeological community. reference to and include a listIt is situated at a distance of of a number of textbooks, small500 metres approximately, daggers, woven fabrics and rawwalking south in an olive grove, materials for the production ofon the peak of a tall hill, and perfumes. In one of the mostreveals relics of Pelasgian walls important buildings which haveand an extraordinary view to been studied so far, 16 copper104

View of Xirokambi with Taygetus in the background/ Municipality of Spartadaggers, a part of a boar tusk 27/ 08 / 2013), and it was thehelmet, tips of arrows, a copper only one in Europe that receivedhelmet, charred barley seeds an honorary distinction.and findings of a worshiping-ritualistic nature, which among To the west, just 2.5 kilometresother things, manifest the away, with the aromas of orangecultural and commercial contact orchards and silver and greenwith the Pharaonic Egypt, colours of the olive groves,were discovered. Parts of wall Xirokambi appears and makespaintings depicting scenes with a stop in this first part of thewarriors and female figures tour imperative. This village, haswere also found, while the among other things, a charmingfair-sized bases of the pillars cobbled square which during thelead to the safe conclusion most part of the year is floodedthat here stood a glorious and by locals and visitors who relaximposing Mycenaean palace. under the thick shade of theThere is also the hypothesis that plane trees, enjoying a nicethis was the legendary palace coffee or delicious food in oneof the Homeric Lacedaemon of the nearby small taverns andof Menelaos and Helen, but it coffee shops.will definitely take many moreyears of hard work and studies, At a small distance, lies theto reach a conclusion. For now, alluring monastery of Panagiathis excavation site at Agios Zerbitsa on a forested slopeVasilios of Xirokambi, which for of Taygetus, as well as theobvious reasons is not open to impressive monastery ofthe public, was designated as “Katafygiotissa” standing on aone of the ten most important huge rock...sites worldwide, during theinternational archaeology forum A delightful travel experiencethat was held in Shanghai (22 – with a point of departure and 105

A natural stone “arch” is looming over the road inside the gorge/V. Sykasbase the village’s picturesque chronologies indicate to a widesquare. From that point, the time range for construction,effortless walk leads you somewhere between the lastthrough insuperable geomorphic decades of the 2nd centuryformations of the Miocene and the first decades of the 1stand the Pleistocene with century before Christ. At theunique natural cave paintings north side of the gorge thereand cavernous hollows, in is a carved pipe, with no solidcombination with unspoilt evidence dating it from thevegetation and the gorgeous Hellenistic years, which the localssmall gorge of “Anakolo”. There, being unable for centuries toat the narrowest point of the justify its existence, nicknamedgorge’s exit with a view to the “diavolavlako” (devil’s pipe).village opposite, lies a trulyremarkable “treasure”, not only In any case, this smallfor the wider area, but also architectural “jewel”, with afor Greece and all of Europe! length of four metres and stoneWith its feet soaked by the cool imposts meticulously processedwaters of the torrent of Rasina and perfectly connected with(ancient Erasina), the Bridge of one another, without the useXirokambi counts already more of plaster, makes it worththan two millennia of glorious visiting. The efforts, pride andlife, a fact that makes it the only commitment of some of thebridge in Europe that has been locals when, a few years back,used continuously and safely decided to open up again afor over 2,000 years. During the part of the “Royal Road”, theRoman times, the “Royal Road”that connected Sparta with its The Anakolo gorge consistsseaport, Kardamyli traversed this of imposing limestone rocksbridge. The slightly contradictory and extraordinary vegetation/V.Sykas106

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The Hellenistic bridge of Xirokambi, above the torrent of Rasina, stands sturdy andinvincible for many centuries/V. Sykasone connecting Xirokambi with allow it, one can broaden theirGoranoi, Gola and its famous acquaintance with the area andmonastery, must also be noted. the gorge of “Anakolo”, followingIt took three attempts in total the road from the centre of theof hard labour involving loping, village and arriving after aboutcutting, uprooting and adding 5 kilometres at Koumousta. Bysings, before they managed to general agreement, here, unfolds“revive” the ancient path the one of the most attractiveSpartans followed to get to parts of Taygetus, facing fromKardamyli… a distance the small church ofMoreover, if time and mood Panagitsa, adorned with murals108

dated from the 13th century, and distance from urban centresleading to a divine small square, and authorities gave birthsix fountains with cold water and to a phenomenal solidaritystone houses all around. This and camaraderie among itsmagnificent medieval settlement, inhabitants, which is describedfor which written testimonies eloquently in the monograph ofdate back to the 15th century, Th. Katsoulakos and P. Stoumboshad known its heyday during for Koumousta, who speak ofthe medieval, Venetian and a way of life that “covered allOttoman times, in spite of its basic needs, because they didhighly remote location. This not expect help from anywhere. 109

Koumousta, a picturesque village at an altitude of 700 metres/V. SykasThey lived essentially in absentia mill, continues to a derelictof state power. So the erection medieval tower and ends at thefor example, of a house for every upper village, offering a trulynewlywed couple, was considered spectacular view to the plain andan obligation of all inhabitants. the surrounding peaks of Parnon.In case, a homeowner was sick, Eight kilometres away fromthe entire village was on duty. Sparta, to the south of Amykles,They ploughed and harvestedhis crops. Willing to cover any Cobbled path in a ravineneed. And they called this type of of Taygetus/V. Sykasmutual assistance “paraspori”...”Arna, Goranoi and the otherpretty villages…Returning to Amykles, afterabout 2.5 kilometres, one arrivesat Kalyvia Sohas, a tasteful villagebuilt between the streams of“Ourdou” and “Retsa”, with areasof greenery as far as the eye cansee. From here, a few metreshigher, stands proudly EpanoSoha and the two villages areconnected both by an accessibledirt road and by one of the mostbeautiful cobbled roads of theeast side of Taygetus. This roadbegins from the sanctuary ofthe Elefsinian Artemis, passesthrough the ruins of the village’s110

Kalyvia Sohas is a sub-mountainous village built at an altitude of 270 metres andsituated at the east end of Taygetus/V. Sykasa series of scenic villages the boundaries and bordersstarts. Two of them are Anogeia of the map. The latter is also(featuring the impressive three- called “Taygetus gate”, becausestorey mansion of Xanthakos at from that point originates aits square) and Palaiopanagia, road leading to the Hellenicand are now virtually connected Mountaineering Club ofas their residences removed Sparta. From the same place,The Monastery of Koumbari is built on a hill of the eastern Taygetus, southof Palaiopanagia. It celebrates the day of the Zoodochos Pigi/V. Sykas 111

The plane tree of Arna, with a perimeter of 13,8 metres and a life of manycenturies/V. Sykascommences a short dirt road immigrated abroad, mainly toto the deserted monastery of the USA and Canada, withoutKoumbari, with the exquisite wall ever neglecting to donate somepaintings of 1602. of their money for infrastructure and enhancement works for theAfter Xirokambi, the street village, as the grandiosesigns inform about a significantnumber of lovely villages. The marble fountain opposite theKaminia, Palaiochori, Potamia, plane tree was built in 1922 withPolovitsa (with its stunning money sent by immigrants. Theview), Goranoi, Liantina and craftsman worked hard for two yearsVasiliki (encircled by chestnut in order to complete it../V. Sykas.and walnut trees). Arna, built at780 metres with a square gracedby an enormous plane treewhich has 14-metre perimeterand is probably about onethousand years old, hides in itssurroundings an inconceivablyrich fauna and endemic wildflowers. Golden eagles, Bonelli’seagles, common buzzards,tawny owls, common kestrelsand peregrines, are only a fewof the rare specimens of lifethe visitor finds not just herebut throughout the centralpart of Mt. Taygetus. In thepast, many of its residents112

View from Goranoi/Municipality of Spartafountain with the capitals and the Alternatively, if they choose topediments, constructed in 1922 continue straight, after Polovitsa,by great craftsmen of Tinos, on the regional road to Arna,testifies. Arna is renowned, after just two kilometres, theysince ten years ago, for its will see Goranoi looming from an“Chestnut Festival” which takes altitude of 660 metres on a hill ofplace annually, during the last Mt. Taygetus. The large village,weekend of October. It is in fact with the stone-made squarea four-day autumn festival that and the mansions, is framedcombines artistic happenings, by many charming fountainswith a plentiful and tasteful open and has been the capital of themarket, where seasonal produce former Municipality of Fellia andis being sold. The locals, in the seat of the administrativeorder to greet the visitors, offer division of Bardounia thatchestnuts cooked in the biggest extended from Potamia up tofrying pan of the country, but Kastania and the monastery ofalso boiled in the old cauldron. Yiatrissa. Halfway through theAlways accompanied by warm five kilometres remaining fortsipouro. Gola, turning left after havingMoreover, in the context of passed a modern quarry withthe great number of available an incredible view to the siteactivities and depending on the of the mythological Arkina, thetime of the year, the traveller road going downhill for a whilemay also follow one of the two and turning into a five-minutehiking paths of the European walk path, leads to the site of anroute Ε4, that pass through ancient quarry. Strabo mentionshere... characteristically that the area’s “Krokeatis Lithos” (the well- known serpentine porphyry) 113

Goranoi are built amphitheatrically at an altitude of 660 metresand offer limitless view to the surrounding area/V. Sykaswas coveted and adorned many the narthex of the monastery’sluxurious Roman villas, at least Catholicon is undoubtedlyuntil the great earthquake of the depictions of ancient375. philosophers and poets like Solon, Thucydides, Plutarch,Return to the main road to Sibyl, Aristotle, Plato, Chilon thefind the Monastery of Gola, Lacedaemonian and Homer, anerected on the south side of art that only in this case (and atMytikas, back in 1632, that Agios Dimitrios of Chryssafa)contains masterpieces created was practised so south in theby the skilful hand of Dimitrios Greek land... From this point, anKakkavas. A unique trait of the extremely appealing path starts,murals on the south wall of which passing from the stream114

of Larnakia and under the shade escapade begins from the centreof an ancient forest of chestnut of the village, ascends throughtrees, terminates at Koumousta. Spartia, the known remoteUnder the peak of Ai Lia (Prophet mountain settlement above ArnaElias), at a remote site, lies the and continues west, towards thecave of Giatrakos, Mani’s famous main part of the mountain. Aftermilitary commander. Exactly the asphalt and the accessibleone thousand metres above the dirt road, the path starts aftermonastery, stands the small the small church of Prophitischurch of Ai Lia... Elias, at an altitude of 950 metres. Ten minutes later andArna – Vasiliki Forest Path after a smooth upward slope,This unrivalled mountaineering a dense fir forest interrupts 115

The ancient quarry, by the stones of which many Roman villas were constructed/V. Sykassporadically the “aerial photos” of walking and as the gradientone can shoot, of the peaks of gradually turns steeper, anMt. Parnon and the Laconian ideal point to make a stop isgulf. “Kommenos Vrachos” the “Agiannakis” location at an(Broken Rock) which is next altitude of 1,350 metres, whichin line, is a passage through a lies exactly at the borders ofvertical slope of the rock that the prefectures of Laconia andcreates inconceivable panoramic Messenia and has a lovely smallscenery to all directions. The clearing and a stone-made hut.highest peak of Taygetus, From here, the route changesrises now proudly to the north. entirely in terms of shape andHeading west after another hour direction, descending to a small116

The wild bees chose, many decades ago, an impressive spot with stalactiticdecoration to make their nest/V. Sykasstream for about ten minutes 1,550 metres. From the forest ofand merging finally with a forest “Vasiliki” and the correspondingroad with a north to south crossroad, one may choose toorientation. Following the south descend towards the Monasteryroute, the visitor aims, among of Gola, or ascend to the top,other things, to admire the through Pentavloi or Mousgia,beginning of the gorge of Viros, Agios Georgios and the saddlewhich terminates at Kardamyli. of “Spanakaki” to the west.The road after an open turn The variety of all these hikingmoves north, while delicious routes can essentially compete,and aromatic wild strawberries in terms of beauty and range,flank towards Agios Dimitrios the expansive natural mountainand for at least two kilometres. setting...Mountain cultivations, old hutsand age-long walnut trees, Yerakaris Gorgebear witness that somewhere This route is not difficult inaround here is the heart of the general and has very good“Vasiliki” forest and the end of signposting, but it requires extrathis route, lasting three hours attention at the points where theand fifteen minutes. The same side rocks make the path narrow.downhill path next meets the The hiker starts, spellbound byabove-mentioned gorge and the natural surroundings andthen traverses the road to smelling the exquisite aromas ofascend towards the highest mint, oregano and sage, from thesettlement of the Peloponnese, bridge of the gorge, just belowAgios Dimitrios, at an altitude of Goranoi, and arrives after a walk of one hour approximately,Spartia is a mountainous village built following an opposite course ofat an altitude of 851 metres/V. Sykas the stream’s flow, at Kefalovryso in Arkina at the point where 117

One of the narrowest areas of the gorge/V. Sykasthey meet the forest road. The course the natural explanationreturn is virtually a descent on for this phenomenon may bethe same path. Apart from the very simple, but it remains thewild vegetation surrounding strangest thing in the entirespectacularly the entire route, route. Right above Kefalovryso,there are many other points the stream gets steeper and,of interest for the hiker. The based on a logical association,most important of these is the the locals nicknamed it “Chaos”.“Alogopati” location, just above In the vicinity, one can find thethe gorge, with the allegedly “Loubes”, the cavities that cutvisible tracks of horseshoes on the rocks for the collection ofthe rock stamped forever as the water, but their creation date islegend goes, by the horse of unknown.the nymph Taygete, as she was In the near future, a large partjumping, making unbelievable of Yerakaris will be signposted,strides to escape from Zeus. The at the place where the sublimeChristian tradition “borrowed” serene waters powered thethis charming legend and mills of Papavaggelis, Kordatos,“transformed” it again to horse Kanellos and Achilles, beforefootprints, but in this case the flowing in the valley of Eurotas…rider is the Virgin Mary whopursued the Turks, heading The “Alogopati” locationfrom Gola to the monastery of at the Yerakaris gorge.Yiatrissa...A bit before the end, where the The alleged traces of the horse’sgorge turns into a stream, there steps are printed on the hardis a curious “double tree”, with rock/V. Sykasits lower half being a plane treeand its upper part a fig tree. Of118

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NORTH OF SPARTAThe green slopes of north Taygetus/Municipality of SpartaThe villages to the north of combined with the unspoiledSparta are equally beautiful as all natural environment, guaranteeother areas of the Municipality an ideally pleasant stay.and the entire Peloponnese. Strolling in the forest, paying aExquisite nature, deep green visit in the villages’ coffee shopsforests and snow-cold rivers, and small taverns, the generalgorges, mountain peaks and “atmosphere” of the tour is suchhiking paths “coexist” with that the stress or memory of thetraces from the prehistoric noisy big-city life is forgottenand Mycenaean civilizations, from the very first moment oneartefacts and buildings from arrives here. Another beautifulthe Classical antiquity, the and unique tour begins, focusingRoman and Byzantine periods, on the most important villages inhistorical monasteries, fortresses terms of historical, architecturaland castles. The kindness and touristic interest.and hospitality of the locals,120

From Vordonia to Kastori In “Soulina”, the 19th century,Driving on the left bank of the three-storey mansion of Stefanosriver, after Karavas and right Linardakis stands out, a truebefore the Eurotas Bridge, at architectural landmark for thethe junction heading northwest, region, while here one canthe road enters Vordonia, the also find “Fragiko Kamaraki”, acentre of a complex of small charming and elaborate drinkingdispersed settlements. “Orahos” fountain. After Vordonia, inis the birth-place and home of Kastri village, stands the Kastrifolk painter Panayiotis Zografos monastery, built in the 17thwho was best-known for his century, as well as the “Metochi”unique illustration of the battles church, burnt by Mohamed II thebetween the Greeks and the Conqueror, after he had besiegedTurks, a work commissioned by and defeated Prinokokkas andthe army general Makriyiannis his 400 soldiers in the nearbyto complement his Memoirs. castle. Demetrius and Thomas, 121

The village of Kastri/I. Glekas (LEFOS)the brothers of Constantine name possibly derives from thePalaiologos, who had been legendary Castor, brother offighting against one another, Polydeuces (Pollux), although inexchanged vows of friendship some 19th century texts it is alsoand cooperation inside this referred to as “Kastania”, whichchurch. means “chestnut tree”, a name that is absolutely justified asRight after Kastri, comes the surrounding area is literallyKastori, once famous as the filled by these huge and lovelyregional commercial centre. Its trees. As early as 1700, theStone-built mansion at Vordonia/V. Sykas122

Seasonal waterfall beforethe Kardari spring/V. Sykas 123

The village of Kastori, perched on the foot of north Taygetus.../I. Glekas (LEFOS)first settlers tried to take full watershed. As the visitor entersadvantage of this ideal location, the village, his ear immediatelysituated at an altitude of 500 catches the loud and pleasantmeters, overseeing the Eurotas gurgle of the water runningvalley. They constructed the first under the gutters of the mainhouses in complete harmony street, creating a first sense ofwith the natural course of the peace and serenity. At Kastori,water that flows into the valley the village of water springs,from Mount Taygetus, and from there is an old watermill built inthe collecting basins to the 1827 and a large basin used by124

the community to wash carpets. facilities of the area to theIn the past, there also used to be ground, did not manage to holdan innovative water-powered oil back its way to development.press. Always near the area’s field ofGoing back to the history of action and developments, thethis great village, it is worth locals participated in politicalnoting that even the invasion groups and armed struggles, byof the Egyptian army, led by contributing resources, weaponsIbrahim Pasha, who burned and warriors, and by being activemost of the houses and other in big or small rebellions. 125

$QROG water mill at Kastori, built in 1825/Municipality of SpartaAll these were achieved, without Mary, built in a cave, at theever neglecting the architectural, entrance of the Kastania stream.commercial and industrial It is believed to have beenactivities of the village. This is the hermitage of the village’swhy travellers, while strolling the patron, Theoklitus, Archbishopvillage’s streets and picturesque of Lacedaemon. From the Agiosalleys, very often encounter well- Mamas springs, an accessiblekept neoclassical houses and dirt road that becomes a path,stunning stone-made mansions, leads with little effort to thedating from the 19th and 20th cavernous church of Agioscenturies, with marble corners Mamas located on one sideand arched entrances whose of the wild gorge, overseeingdetailed ornaments have been Kastori and the entire greencurved by hand and have been valley. Right there, next to thepreserved until now with great drinking fountain constructedcare. Such a neoclassical house in 1780, there is an aquaculturehosts the very active cultural farm for trout, salmons and thecentre, while across the street very rare – in Greece – sturgeons.stands the impressive church of Locals and visitors agree thatthe Dormition of the Theotokos a tour in Kastori cannot bewith its rare – for the orthodox considered successful unlesstradition – western-style painting one tastes these amazingdecorations made in 1943. The fish delicacies in one of thefans of religious tourism will numerous good taverns of thediscover more churches in the region. But the hardworkingvillage’s surrounding area with locals do not limit themselvesthe closest one being – right in just these activities. Theyafter the first houses – the produce extra virgin olive oil,church of “Mesosporitissa” Virgin honey, and various kinds of126

The small church of Panagia Mesosporitissa is situated in the cavity of a large rockand celebrates on the 21st of November, in the middle of the sowing season,to which it owes its name/V. Sykascheese, chestnuts and on top chapel of Agios Loukas, also builtof that, with a view to providing in the cavity of a rock, with somehigh quality touristic services, of its rock-paintings still visiblethey have some of the best today in average condition. Thetraditional guesthouses in the extremely privileged locationMunicipality. of the village at the foot of theFor those who wish to add mountain makes it an idealsomething extra to the Kastori place for soft skill outdoor andtour, an ideal proposal is to mountainous activities, as wellexplore the “Pisayiannis” gorge as organized excursions to thewith its wild nature and the surrounding mountaintops...The lovely village of Alevrou/V. Sykas 127

Georgitsi is rightfully called “Taygetus’ balcony”/V. SykasThe wide gravel road just outside an uphill trail that can easily beKastori, leading to Kalamata, is distinguished. A little bit further,the starting point for a unique Ai-Yannis and Vordoniatiko arehiking route. Through forests of revealed. The signs then becomechestnut, cherry and fir trees, the sparse but still suffice to leadwide openings offer a dramatic the way. Going towards theview to the mountains of Parnon. southeast, the first stop of theAfter driving for almost ten hike is in the beautiful plateaukilometres, turn left to Dirrema with the chapel of the Ai-Yannis– Malakasa and park the car at Nisteftis, at the exit of the cedarthe “Stavrouli” shrine. This is forest. In less than one hour thethe starting point of the hiking, path ends on the peak providingaccompanied by the smell of a stunning panoramic view...thyme and oregano, following After Kastori, the first village on128

the way up heading northwest is developed Kastori, but almostAlevrou, founded around 1465. twice as high, is the equallyUntil recently it was famous for picturesque Georgitsi, theits entire generations of music so-called “Taygetus’ balcony”players, virtuosi in traditional , with the breathtaking view. Itinstruments. Clarinet, lute, is located in a green east sideviolin, mandolin and flute were of the mountain with chestnutonly some of the instruments and plane trees growing at itsthe locals were famous for feet, while fir and pine forestsmastering, like the once famous grow higher than the village.“Kekos” with his clarinet… Its position, altitude and architecture may remind a typicalFrom Georgitsi to Logkaniko traditional mountain village,Only 6,5 km away from the but its fame and production- 129

The Archaeological Society recently renovated the old church of Profitis Elias/V. Sykasrelated value derives from its back in the 16th century. Astop quality olive oil. Its 300 locals also keep the “glorious”inhabitants provide the market tradition of making “tsipouro”,with more than 1,000,000 litres they organize, for many yearsper year. The village’s olive now, the famous “Tsipourogroves are located at the foot of Festival”, every last weekendthe mountain, close to the fertile of October, offering plenty ofvalley of Eurotas and everything this sweet spirit to enjoy inindicates that this village was “Karvounorema” under century-indeed one of the biggest and old plane trees.wealthiest villages in Laconia, Other important sights of theThe F-104 airplane at Georgitsi in village, amongst others, arehonour of the fallen army pilots/MOS Agios Athanasios, at the central square of the village, with the130 enormous plane tree and the F-104 airplane offered by the Hellenic Airforce in honour of the fallen army pilots. The Ypapanti church with its characteristic bell tower, stands in the small charming square of “Pano Geitonia” and at the opposite side, the traditional three- storey “Petrakis” mansion is considered to be one of the finest buildings of the The Byzantine church of Agios Dimitrios is built on a green land above Georgitsi and offers view to the entire plain/V. Sykas

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The church of Agios Nikolaos with its cross-shaped roof, at the cemeteryof Agoriani, built at the end of the 13th century/V. Sykassettlement. On “Kastraki” hill, In any case, you must not omiton the upper part of the village, visiting the successive flour millsthere is the byzantine temple where water flowing out of theof Agios Dimitrios with many first mill turned the wheel ofbeautiful icons from the 17th the next, and so on. They cancentury, while the chapel of be found in “Pournarorema”Profitis Elias may be particularly and in “Mega Rema”, twointeresting for some. Built in locations that demonstrate in1619, it features human-sized the most graphic way the naturaldepictions of the Archangels in green magnificence of thisits interior painted by the well- lovely village, the picturesqueknown family of the religious Georgitsi...painter D. Kakkavas, which hascreated many post-Byzantine Three kilometres away ismasterpieces in the territory of Agoriani, another village of thethe Municipality of Sparta. “Pano Riza” of Taygetus. It has been built amphitheatricallyIf you ask the locals, they will at an average altitude of 750surely show you the way and meters. It used to include atake you to the village’s stone- byzantine fortress, no longerbuilt primary school, dated from visible, while its cross-shapedthe late 19th century with its church dedicated to Agioscharacteristic “L” shape and two Nicolaos (end of 13th century)forecourts. It was renovated in with its marvellous and well-1924 by the generous donations preserved wall paintings, standsand expenses of “The American out as the main monument ofAssociation of Georgitsians”... the region. The Temple of theAnother sight worth seeing is the Koimisi (Dormition of the Virginruined house of the great painter Mary) is also a great exampleand sculptor Petros Roumpos, of the unrivalled craft of thewho was born here in 1873. stone artisans of Lagkadia.132

Logkanikos stands on the green slopes of north Taygetus. Its name is believed tooriginate from the medieval word “Logkos” (dense shrub forest), an image that westill see today/V. SykasMaking a small detour to the Mycenaean period and reachesnortheast, after three kilometres its peak during the Palaiologeanthrough the dense vegetation, Period (1296-1460). The wealthythe nice little village of Agios “Velminatida Chora”, as ancientKonstantinos appears, which Greek writers called it, stilltogether with the Founteika keeps its many hidden secrets,settlement counts a total of 150 but recent archaeologicalinhabitants involved in farming excavations, conducted duringand livestock breeding… the construction of the new Lefktra-Sparta highway,Logkanikos, the village with the have revealed two excellentenviable, rich and long history, Roman baths dated from theis only 4,5 kilometres away, 3rd century, which have beenfollowing a good asphalt road moved for protection and will befrom Agoriani. A nice path starts exhibited, after the appropriatefrom the village’s entrance and study, in the highway rest area atleads shortly to the ruins of the Pellana junction...“Kotitsa”, a destroyed byzantinesettlement. It is first referred to The contemporary location ofin Ottoman archives of 1463 and the village matches the locationhas been razed to the ground of the Byzantine settlement ofby the Turks immediately after Logkanikos; its first appearancethe failed Orloff rebellion. in any written text goes backBuilt amphitheatrically on four to 1450, included in a Venetianslopes of Taygetus, across the list of all the Peloponnesianold national road connecting castles. It is estimated thatSparta and Megalopolis and at it has been built at the endan altitude of 750 meters, the of the 13th century and wasgreen village of Logkanikos has situated between the castlean unprecedented historical on the top of the hill and thecontinuity that begins in the monastery of Agios Georgios to 133

The Byzantine castle above Logkanikos, erected at the end of the 13th century, on anarrow inaccessible hill at an altitude of 995m. offers an unhindered view/V. Sykasits south. It held a strategically offered direct visual contact withimportant position, both by those of Chelmos and Pellana.being an important bastion of For these and many otherMystras towards the southern reasons, during the period of theand western Arcadia, and by Greek revolution, the insightful,being located on the “Mystriotiki pure and competent warriorStrata” (the Mystras Road) Nikitas Stamatelopoulos, knownthat was connected to the as “Nikitaras o Tourkofagos”“Vassiliki Odos” (Royal Road) (Nikitas the Great, the Turk-during the Palaiologean Period. eater), with the assistance ofFurthermore, its small castle Georgios Giatrakos, created134

here an important Greek military of honey, chestnuts, nuts,camp that operated in a wide almonds and oregano. There isgeographic radius. also a long list of churches and monasteries all worth visitingToday the village counts 600 and mentioned briefly below.permanent residents occupied The church of Agios Georgios,mainly with agriculture and constructed in 1375, was thelivestock farming. The extra temple of a monastery andvirgin olive oil of the region bears murals of unprecedentedis complemented every year beauty. Unfortunately it needsby the important production immediate restoration, as it has 135

The church of Agios Georgios is located to the northeast of Logkanikos, at thesite where the cemetery of the village lies today. It is a single-room barrel-vaultedchurch featuring a shrine with a semicircular arch, erected in May 1374/V. Sykasbeen struck twice from fire in the right at the junction after thenear past, in 1930 and in 1955. village of Perivolia. There areThere are also the late-Byzantine two versions about the origintemples of Agioi Apostoloi of its name. According to the(1380), Koimisi (the Dormition of first one, the name “Pellana” orthe Virgin) (early 15th century), “Pelani” derives from the wordAgios Demetrius (15th century), “Pella”, which means, “stone” oras well as the very interesting “rocky hill”. “Aspri Vrysi” (theByzantine “tower-house” of White Fountain) indeed flowsAnalipsi, dated from the 14th from the base of a rocky hill. Butcentury. Look also for the according to the second version,Kyparissi settlement, belonging Pellana took its name after ato the Logkanikos Community, girl, Pellania, who, as traditionAgios Ioannis and “Otto’s Water has it, on her way to fetchFountain”. Two kilometres water, slipped, fell in the waterfurther on, one can visit the and drowned. The same storyhistoric monastery of Ampelaki mentions that her veil was laterwith the marvellous churches on found in the Laggia spring (todaythe slope of a green gorge and called Zoros).the miraculous icon of the VirginMary “Makellaritissa”. At a short The archaeological findingsdistance, the “Eurotas Springs” and the monuments brought toreveal dreamy water scenery that light by the various excavationsis the ideal conclusion to this conducted at different times,tour of rare beauty... provide irrefutable evidence of the brilliant history of thePellana, an archaeological village. Ancient Pellana was“treasure” waiting to be located to the northeast ofdiscovered... the contemporary village andPellana is built on the northern occupied the area betweenside of the Taygetus, about 7 the spring of “Aspri Vrysi”,kilometres from Kastori, turning extending up to Paliokastro136

The churches of Agios Dimitrios and Dormition of Theotokos at Logkanikos, abovethe newer church/V. Sykasand Pelekiti hills, where Mycenaean Period, in 1500fragments of coloured vessels BC. With a ten-metre heighthave been found. For many and diameter, it is the secondreaders, another undisputed largest tomb after the one ofproof of the aforementioned Agamemnon in Mycenae. Basedlocation of the ancient village is on the offerings found insidePausanias’ reference during his the tomb (strips of goldenvisit in the region. sheets, golden plates, jewellery, talismans, alabaster objects,At the archaeological site, in palatial-style amphorae, potterya vast space of 6,000 square that covers the entire Mycenaeanmeters approximately, there Period, from the 16th up to theis an important Mycenaean early 12th century BC), it is safecemetery with five majestic royal to conclude that it used to bevaulted tombs, the largest of a small part of an importantthem dating back to the Early Mycenaean administrative 137

The modern Pellana is built on a hill/V. Sykascentre. The tombs and the the path network that covers thisprehistoric remains in the Pellana part of the ancient mountain.Acropolis have been discovered They also organize variousby Dr. Th. Spyropoulos in the events of mountaineering,period between 1980 and environmental and cultural1995. The Ancient Monuments’ nature.Reconstruction Division of For an unforgettablethe Ministry of Culture has “exploration”, we suggest theconducted a study in order to “Faraggi ton Mylon” (Gorge ofsupport and shelter the largest the Mills), which starts a bittholos tomb, but this work has further down from the village ofnot been materialized yet. The green gorge of Myloi/V. SykasMany findings suggest thepresence of a Proto-Hellenicsettlement (3200-2600 BC),but also of Hellenistic, Romanand Byzantine ones includingan acropolis, as well as tracesof fortification walls dated to allthese periods. The interestingobjects found during thisparticular large-scale excavationare exhibited in a dedicated hallin the Archaeological Museum ofSparta...Hiking in North TaygetusThe “Lousina Association of theFriends of Taygetus”, basedin Kastori, is a group of activepeople who take great care inorganizing the signposting of138

Kastori, on the way to Demiria, quite steep. Trunks configuredand ends near Georgitsi, with an into steps facilitate the ascent.east to west orientation. At the The highest point of this ascentbeginning of the hike, the first leads to a descent through athing that catches one’s attention wooden staircase, while cautionis “Marmarogefyro” (the Marble must be exercised during theBridge) at an altitude of 400 next difficult stage, which is themeters. It is a nice old stone- crossing of a narrow and steepbuilt bridge with two arches, very part on the right side of anclose to the village. It has a small abrupt mountainside.water fountain made of stoneand a very informative wooden After passing two rockysign depicting all the paths of hills through the improvisedthe area. As soon as the hikers staircases made of brunches, oneenter the gorge, they will be meets the narrowest point of theimpressed by the enormous and gorge where the “vanished” waterupright plane trees with their ivy is heard and seen again. Thecovered trunks and the beneficial impressive millstones belongingshade of the forest making to the old stone-built mill, nowthe walk easier during the hot covered with vegetation, cansummer months. be traced here, where the plane trees surround a multitude ofA few minutes later, one sees beech, wild cherry and fir trees,a concrete abandoned building although the most observingwhich is a small hydro-electrical visitors will focus their attentionfactory that used to provide on the few and rare lilies (Liliumpower to the village. After a Chalcedonicum) and the largethirty-minute hike, one can make yellow foxglove (Digitalisa stop at the “Kastoras” bridge Grandiflora).where well-kept recreation areais found, which can also be easily A few minutes later, a well-keptaccessed from the village... forest road appears that starts from Georgitsi, passes throughApart from the tall plane trees, Mesorachi and ends at Agiosthis path runs on both sides of Nicolaos following the southerna stream with dense vegetation side of Malevos peak. Threethat includes willows, ferns, and a half hours of hiking havewild roses, wild peers and many passed by now, with anotherother plants and trees that grow thirty minutes left until thein shallow water, all of them arrival at Georgitsi at an altitudecreating a dreamy ambiance of 930 metres. The unsurpassedthat brings fairy tales and natural beauty along the entiregenuine folk beliefs in mind. route makes it one of the mostFurther down, as the water recommended hiking paths inflows underground and the the Municipality of Sparta.path becomes cobbled for somemetres, the visitors arrive at twosmall pretty waterfalls. They cansafely bypass them from theirleft (southern) side; the paththen goes uphill and becomes 139

EAST OF SPARTAAt the crossroads of history,nature and tradition...Stone-made houses at Voutianoi, next to the renovated square/V. SykasBuilt between the mountain’s dense forests, carrying a long history andheritage, with settlements bearing ancient names still alive and their nobleresidents participating in every revolution of this country, the villagesof Mt. Parnon promise that even a brief visit will offer great memories,valuable and original, that the travellers will cherish long after they returnfrom this special journey...The first part of the tour… Ten kilometres after Sparta, theThe route starts from the villages journey begins from Voutianoi.of the former Municipality Apart from the church of Agioiof Oinountas, following the Taxiarches (Archangels Michaelroad artery linking Sparta and Gabriel), which dominatesand Tripoli, and after Kladas, the entire village, the restoredwithout turning left (on the new main square of the village,road bypassing Voutianoi) but with the age-long plane tree,preferably continuing straight. is also gorgeous. It is famous140

for the festival organised at the church of Agios Ioannis (St. Johnsmall church of Ai Giorgis (St. the Theologian), inauguratedGeorge), which is situated on at the end of 1885. Apart fromthe hill bearing the same name, this holy temple located at thenortheast of the settlement, and village square with the age-offers a magnificent view. On the long plane tree (since 1879),day that the Saint is celebrated, the visitor finds other fine smallthere are horse races, an old churches, St. Nektarios at thecustom of the locals, where the village’s entrance, St. Nicolas, inonly award is a handkerchief. byzantine style, St. Andreas andThe first written testimonies St. Paraskevi.about the races are traced backat 1900, while the small church Returning to the road connectingof St. George was built in 1698. Sparta and Tripoli, a few kilometres after Voutianoi andContinuing east and not far from turning left, there is SellasiaVoutianoi, there is Theologos (14.5 kilometres away from thewhich owes its name to the municipality’s capital), known 141

The small church of Ai Yiorgis, is situated 3,5 km. northeast of Voutianoi/V. Sykasmainly for its “Olive and Oil Sellasia owes its name to theFestival” organised here the for ancient settlement with thepast few years at the beginning same name, which was situatedof August, with a lot of success. on the hill of Palaiogoula. AtThe olive oil production is also the nearby valley, where thethe main occupation both of its Oinountas river runs through,residents and of the residents the notorious battle between theof the neighbouring villages. Spartans of Kleomenis and theEverything that is produced here, Macedonians of Antigonus Dosondue to the special composition took place in 222 B.C while onof the ground and the ideal the neighbouring hill of Agiosclimate of the area, is without Konstantinos there are traces ofany doubt of premium quality. a fort of the Hellenistic period.The large plane tree at the square of Theologos/V. Sykas142

The picturesque Sellasia/V. SykasJust outside Sellasia, at the small on the 25th kilometre of thesettlement of Koniditsa, there is national road connectingthe byzantine church of Profitis Sparta and Tripoli and afterElias, dated from the first half covering a distance of 8of the 11th century, as well as a additional kilometres. Bysmall folkloric museum, which general consensus, this placeconstitute the main reasons to is characterised by a gloriousstop for a visit... ancient Greek tradition and history, while even Pausanias inFrom Karyes to Vresthena… his book “Laconia” writes “το γαρThe traveller may arrive at χωρίον Αρτέμιδος και νυμφώνKaryes (also called Arachova) by εστίν αι Καρύαι, και άγαλμαturning left at the intersection έστηκεν Αρτέμιδος εν υπαίθρωThe Byzantine temple of Profitis Elias at Koniditsa/V. Sykas 143

καρυάτιδος…” meaning that route and many mountain bikethe village of Artemis and the routes covering a total distancenymphs were in Karyae and that of 50 kilometres. Anotherthere was a statue of Artemis important first of the village isin the countryside of Caryatid, the fact that here, in 2012, wassupporting the myth according held the Pan-Hellenic mountainto which the superb Phidias biking championship, while inwas inspired for the Caryatides 2013, the 1st Semi-Marathonadorning Erechtheion, by the of Mt. Parnon, “The Karyatia”,beautiful young virgins of the also took place, making Karyes aarea, who danced in honour of significant and developing centrethe deity Artemis. It is also said of soft skill outdoor activities.that this sanctum stood at the The picturesque square withspot where the courtyard of the the age-long plane tree, theDormition of the Theotokos lies high quality accommodationtoday. Another wonderful myth choices and the delicious localis the one about the “Plane trees dishes served at traditionalof Menelaos”, which speaks of taverns, just complement thethe three huge plane trees of the image of a village which givesvillage that the locals believed priority to the tourists whothey were planted by the hands respect the surrounding naturalof the king of Sparta, who passed environment...with his army on his way toAvlida. Karyes are until nowadays From here, following a southernthe ideal base for activities and course and continuing for 7small trips to Mt. Parnon. In kilometres at an altitude ofthis beautiful plateau, which is 1,050 metres approximately, thefilled by kermes oaks, chestnut charming Varvitsa or Barbitsaand walnut trees, passes the E4 is found, one of the oldest andThe century-old “Plane trees of Menelaus”/V. Sykas144

At the highest point of the village,dominates a replica of the Cary-atides of Erechtheion, the beautifulwillowy daughters of the ancientKaryes/V. Sykas 145

Relaxing times at the square of Karyes/A. Bougadis (LEFOS)most historic villages of Mt.Parnon, as it was establishedat the beginning of 1600 andwas the birth place of thelegendary captain ZachariasBarbitsiotis, a protagonist of thegreat revolution of 1821 whotook part in the movement ofLambros Katsonis and organisedthe liberation of OdysseasAndroutsos. There are manyinteresting churches in the area,such as Agios Dimitrios, AgiosVasilios, Dormition of Theotokos,Profitis Elias, Zoodochos Pigi(Monastery of Theotokos) andmany others which are worthvisiting.The village, with its hillside Marble statue of the renowned militaryposition, a view to a great part commander Barbitsiotis at the village’sof the horizon and fascinating square/V. Sykassunsets, provides opportunities146

The simple wood-carvedtemplon of the old church ofAgios Dimitrios, filled with wallpaintings. At the oppositeside, lies the temple that wasbuilt later and is a true work ofmarble craftmanship/V. Sykas 147

The stone-made clock in Vamvakou/Municipality of SpartaGeneral view of Vamvakou, with the dominating triune central church/V. Sykas148

for resting, relaxing, and cooling elaborate doorknobs, elegantoff with the accompanying sound lintels and large, carved coigns.of gurgling waters and under the At second look, this placeshade of large century old plane bears strongly the “stamp” oftrees. the Stavros Niarchos family who originate from here. TheRight after Varvitsa, Vamvakou is “Stavros Niarchos” foundation isthe epitome of architectural and responsible for the preservation,natural environment character maintenance and display of manyof the settlements located on buildings of the settlement,this side of Mt. Parnon. To the as well as the procurementsouthwest of the highest peak, and donation of funds forcalled “Megali Tourla” and at constructions and infrastructuresan altitude of 950 metres, the in squares and roads.village is filled with chestnuttrees, walnut trees, plane trees Near the settlement rise the hillsand firs. Walking on its roads “Pyrgaki” and “Kastro”, the namesand alleys, you discover, admire of which suggest the existenceand photograph mansion of a fort in the past, while theyhouses, beautiful heavy doors, also hosted the settlements 149

The square of Vamvakou, with the busts of the benefactors Spyros and StavrosNiarchos/V. Sykas“Niochori” and “Palaiochora”. close the old monastery of AgiaOne of the most remarkable sites Kyriaki. Two kilometres awayof the village is the “Hellenic from the village, the road turnsSchool” which was established right on a small bridge abovein 1813 and was the only place a stream. Following the coursewhere the locals could get an of the stream, on a modesteducation, by personalities such forest road, and after turningas Klemes Adamantidis, a monk right at the intersection, theand teacher in Bucharest, who route leads after a total of twokept it open with donations kilometres from the main road,during the hard years of the to a striking and wild landscapedawn of the 19th century. with firs, black pines and planeThe triune central church of tress. Turning your gaze at theVamvakou is dedicated to St. big rock of the gorge, you faceCharalambos, St. Kyriaki and with awe the architecture ofthe Dormition of Theotokos this old monastery for which weand in the summer of 2013, have unfortunately very littlethe centennial anniversary of information. The multi-storeyits inauguration as well as the stone tower to the left, thebi-centennial anniversary of the quarters (one of which is built“Hellenic School’s establishment on a virtually vertical rock) andwere celebrated in all majesty. the church of the monastery to the right, compose a very uniqueHere, a well signposted path landscape, that only its interiorsstarts, which, through the shelter with the wall paintings, and theof the Sparta Mountaineering caves filled with stalactites andClub, at “Arnomousga”, and stalagmites, can rival in visualafter four hours, ends on thehighest peak of Mt. Parnon. The old Monastery of Agia KyriakiHowever, a visit to Vamvakou is built in a wild gorge withmay be considered “hurried” a spectacular reliefor “incomplete” if the travellerdoes not allow time to see up- and dense vegetation/V.Sykas150