Sparta Guide

end, enduring the exhaustive $UFKLQ0\VWUDV0XQLFLSDOLW\RI6SDUWDsiege. Among others, they alsolooted the bones of Neoplatonic famous foreign trading housesphilosopher Plethon Gemistus, and followed the pace of life anda famous forerunner of the growth of civilised Europe.European Enlightenment, and During the Greek revolution, thethey transferred them to their locals were among the first onescapital, Rimini, to be kept in the to devote their existence to thechurch of Tempio Malatestano. armed struggle, offering money, the necessary resources andUnder the rule of the Turks and even their lives for the liberationwhile the pasha of the Morea of the Peloponnese and the restkept Mystras as his seat, the of Greece.iron fist of governance and the The last and irreversiblemilitary supremacy mitigated any destruction of the castle-townpredatory raids and the town saw took place in 1825, when thesubstantial prosperity once more. Egyptian soldiers of IbrahimAccording to Turkish archive took the order to burn to thesources, in 1580 the population ground anything that stood inexceeded 15,000 people, while their way. After the liberation,the families were almost divided the few people that escaped thein half between Greek and Turks massacre founded the new town(one thousand in both cases) and of Mystras on the foot of thethe Jewish minority amounted historic hill. The end credits ofto more or less another two the legendary town were writtenhundred. Almost a century later, in 1834, when the last remainingthe known Venetian Morosini families moved a few kilometresconquered the Peloponnese and further, to the town of Sparta,Mystras was designated once which was also in the processmore as the seat of the Venetian of its new establishment...province of Mani, at least forthe next three decades, beforebecoming Turkish territory again.However, perhaps nothing canbe compared to the pillage, themassacre and the enslaving itsuffered as retaliation by theenraged Turks for the attitude ofthe locals and their engagementin the revolutionary attemptinstigated by the Russians,widely known as “Orloff Revolt”.Before that crucial moment whendecadence and abandonmentbegan, the town accommodated18,000 inhabitants, engaged insericulture and silk trade, hostedbranches and subsidiaries of 51

THE MONUMENTS OF MYSTRASAn entire world of archaeological,touristic and visual delight, stretchedon a green hill, at the “feet” of theeternal Mount Taygetus…Agios Dimitrios, the Metropolitan church of Mystras96\NDVThe Byzantine castle-town of Mystras has all the historical andarchitectural “prerequisites” that can make it an unforgettable touringexperience to the eyes of the new visitor and traveller. As one of thebest preserved medieval residential complexes of the country, with theexceptional organisation of a well-kept archaeological site, it has beenrighteously declared a “World Heritage Monument” by UNESCO and thusit welcomes numerous Greek and foreign visitors throughout the year.Even though countless books have been written about this almostlegendary and famous Byzantine site, a top-ranking place of glory,growth, administration, arts and letters, rivalled only by Constantinopleitself, there is absolutely nothing, nor any scientific book, that canreplace the presence of the visitor here, among the walls, the palaces,the churches, the monasteries and the fountains, under the coolness ofTaygetus and the aromas of oregano, thyme and wild mint. 52

Indeed, such is the number of monuments and sight-seeing “surprises”of Mystras, and so vivid and irreplaceable is the Byzantine “atmosphere”and the chill you feel, knowing that perhaps you are standing on theexact spot where Constantine Palaiologos took a rest, drank water orcooled down, right after he took an oath to protect Constantinople untilthe end…The rest, the miraculous other things that are experienced with all thesenses, are waiting eternally here for your steps to be added to the onesof the Despots and the emperors.CHURCHES - MONASTERIES It started as a three-aisled basilica, but in the 15th centuryMetropolis – Agios Dimitrios it was turned into a cross-Most likely, this was the first shaped five-domed church,church to be built here, a similar to the one of “Afentiko”few years after Mystras was and Pantanassa. Constructedhanded over to the Byzantines. according to the standards of 53

Metropolitan church of Agios Dimitrios. Liturgy officiated by His EminenceMetropolitan of Monemvasia and Sparta, Efstathios96\NDVthe Middle Byzantine Period, it The Church of Evangelistriafollows the pseudo-cloisonné This elegant building, verysystem, namely the combination close to the above-mentionedof stones surrounded by Metropolis, has simpletiles. The destruction of part proportions, a well-preservedof the exquisite murals may ceramic-plaster decoration andbe attributed to alterations, was built between the end ofadditions, new domes the 14th and the beginning ofand successive works over the 15th centuries. It was thethe centuries. However, the funerary church of Mystras andremaining impressive paintings it was surrounded by graveswere highlighted even more after and ossuaries. Today, althoughtheir maintenance and cleaning the largest part of its paintingin 1968. Only a more “humble” decoration has not survived, therelief tile on the floor outshines respective sculptures and thethe monumentality of the room, capitals of the church composethe lighting, the icons and the an ensemble of beautiful andshades with a beautiful two- devout pictures that “capture”headed eagle at the centre of the the eye of the traveller.church. Search for it with youreyes. Constantine Palaiologos The Monastery of Vrontochiwas standing at this exact Following the same route duringspot, RQWKHWKRI-DQXDU\, the visit, the famous Monasteryhumbleand determined, during of Vrontochi appears, imposinghis coronation as the last and massive, work of theemperor of the Byzantium, energetic superior Pachomios,being fully aware that the last who managed to collect verydays of his unforgettable rule large amounts of money fromhad began… the Despots of Mystras, after 54

The church of Agioi Theodoroi is one of the oldest of Mystras, its style is “cross-shaped octagonal” and bears an immense dom96\NDV.providing various political the one belonging to someservices, advices and more, and “Manuel Palaiologos”, probablyto build the richest monastery one of the emissaries who cameof the castle-town within only from Constantinople for thetwenty years. It incorporates two coronation of Constantine aswell-known churches: the church emperor.of Agioi Theodoroi and Panagia Almost twenty years later,Odigitria, more commonly known “Afentiko”, namely Panagiaas “Afentiko”… Odigitria, was majestically built, as Pachomios had a clear andThe church of Agioi Theodoroi, obvious intention to proceedconstructed within only five to the construction of anotheryears, from 1290 to 1295, and more impressive and elaboraterestored in 1932 by Anastasios building. “Afentiko” has, interOrlandos, famous architect, alia, annexed chapels in itsarchaeologist and great scholar four edges, in the form of smalland supporter of the Greek arts towers, while initially porticos,in general, has an impressive which are now destroyed,large dome and is the last decorated the north and the westfine example of this style, the sides of the church. The well-cruciform octagonal church with informed traveller will easily readdome, after the well-known and find during a tour in Mystras,church of Saint Lucas in Sterea that the erection of porticos wasHellas, the Monastery of Daphni a popular architectural activityand Agia Sophia in Monemvasia. in the monuments of the entireFrom the paintings, only a few hill. What will certainly be kept tosoldier saints have survived, mind, while entering the churchbut particularly interesting is and observing the paintings,one of the tombs in the church, is the unbelievable “wealth” of 55

The Monastery of Pantanassa is located at the eastern side of the hill, on a dominantposition, and can be seen from everywhere, just like the castle on the top96\NDVthe paintings. The plasticity of Palaiologos is buried here, themovements in the representation first Despot of Morea in 1384,of the saints and other figures, originating from this particularthe elegance of the postures, the dynasty, who was later initiateduse of colours on their clothing in the monastic scheme…and their surroundings, werethe reasons why this particular Monastery of Agia Sophiaimpressive style was given the Zoodotouname “Palaiologan Renaissance”. It is the first church theAdditionally, Theodoros I visitor sees upon entering 56

the archaeological site from dome and it used to have twothe upper gate (see relative porticos in the past, but theyparagraph) and it dates back to have not survived. However,the middle of the 14th century, its beautiful three-storey bellbuilt by Manuel Kantakouzenos, tower and its five sepulchralthe first Despot of Morea and chapels have stood over time.Mystras. It is also a two-pillared Unfortunately, only a small partcross-shaped church, like of the monastery’s paintings isthe one in Evangelistria and saved. It belongs to the samePerivleptos, it has a very large phase of Palaiologan Painting 57

Agia Sofia, WKHHQWKURQHGChristLQVLGH mentioned church of AgiosWKHDUFK96\NDV Nikolaos. It manages to combine harmoniously two differentand is characterised by a rather architectural elements, twoconservative and idealistic style rather distinct types of churchesof compositions. encountered in Mystras. On one hand, it is a basilica on theAgios Nikolaos ground floor, whereas the upperA post-Byzantine church of structure belongs to the stylethe 17th century, built during of five-domed cross-shapedthe same period as numerous church. Not only that. In manychurches and monasteries of the parts, mostly on the exterior, anwider area (monastery of Gola, unconventional and harmoniousof Zerbitsa, of Agios Dimitrios in coexistence and composition ofChryssafa and many more). The Byzantine and Gothic elementssurviving murals date back to is accomplished, with pointedthe 17th and the 18th centuries, arches in the windows of thewhile the church, compared to floors, triple series of ceramicthe other Byzantine creations dentils and limestone wreaths.in Mystras, is not of particular Its four-storey bell tower is alsoarchitectural interest. remarkable, while almost all the murals are preserved in aMonastery of Pantanassa rather good condition (prophets,The impressive church of hierarchs, Our Lady of the Sign,the monastery’s Catholicon Ascension, the Life of Jesusowes its existence to Ioannis Christ and others), with theFragopoulos and, as it was dome being the only exception.established in 1428, it is the last The cool fountain at thechurch that was inaugurated in courtyard of the monastery isMystras and the Despotate of an ideal spot for rest, absoluteMorea, apart from the above- The interior of the Pantanassa church 58 96\NDV

Perivleptos, an order of French nuns,listens respectfully to the tour guidewhile carefully observing the church’swall paintings96\NDV 59

tranquillity and meditation. Perivleptos0XQLFLSDOLW\RI6SDUWD.Of course, it is worth notingthat it is operating even today,thanks to the existence of asmall number of nuns, the onlypermanent humanPerivleptosAt the boundaries of the externalwall, to the southeast, standsthe church that is distinguishedin the entire region of Mystrasfor its rich and best-preserveddecoration. Above the entrance,two lions in heraldic positionawait and welcome thevisitor, built-in on a relief tiletogether with the monogramof the monastery. The westerninfluences in the paintings of thechurch are evidently associatedwith Manuel Kantakouzenos,the first Despot of this area, andhis wife, Isabella de Lusignan.The “Angelic Liturgy”, one ofthe most important muralsof the entire archaeologicalsite, Our Lady of the Sign, thescenes from the Twelve Feasts(Pentecost, the Incredulity ofSaint Thomas, the Last Supperand others) and many otherpainting representations, aretruly “pleasing to the eye” of thevisitor, regardless of religiouspreferences and convictions.Moreover, a small single-room church has survived,as well as the dinning room,actually a modest tower with afew embrasures and obviousFrankish architectural anddefensive elements.The Chapels of Agios Georgiosand Agios ChristophorosAt a small distance from themain gate of Mystras, thesetwo chapels have been restoredwith care and respect to theirprevious form and decoration 60

The full August moon appears through the strong walls of the castle, and, risinghigh, it lights up the night. An image of nocturnal splendour...96\NDVand, as is the case with the other on the other, and the soft, gentlechapels of the archaeological whispering of the wind, embracesite, they used to be private the visitors all at once and takefamily and burial churches of the them back to the period whenmost prominent families of the the Francs wisely chose to buildtown. here their 170-metre long, impregnable fort. The Venetians,OTHER MONUMENTS the Byzantines and the Turks continued and proceeded withThe Castle of Mystras works and multiple architecturalOne of the best moments while phases, following the stepstouring this castle-town, is the of the original predecessors,ascent and the view from the building and maintaining towerssmall castle, on the highest point in the two courtyards, enhancingof the hill, 240 metres above the the walls further down, the onesmain gate. The panoramic view that protected the “Upper Town”of the wild landscape of Taygetus (“Ano Chora”), the palaces andon one hand, the Laconian valley the mansions, strengthening 61

The renovated palace is erected on a site that supervises the entire hill96\NDV.the western side with a series of the north wing ZKLFKEHORQJtowers and generally protecting WRGLIIHUHQWEXLOGLQJSKDVHV,the civilians from the constantly were joined in scales and areready bastions of this beautiful characterised by an obviouscastle with a view that leaves the fortress-like form. Here, thevisitor speechless… visitor can admire the building with the gothicPalacesThe recently renovated palaces of Part of a wall of the Palace with pointedthe two families of the Despots windows96\NDV.of Mystras, Kantakouzenosand Palaiologos, are located atthe large square of the “UpperTown” (“Ano Chora”) and areamong the main attractions forthe visitor who, after observingthe architectural and structuralstyle, may be able to make adistinction between theVXFFHVVLYH construction periods.Thus, it consists of two largewings that were joined together,forming a corner to thenorth-eastern side, closing thesquare at that spot, and createdat the time the ideal place forformal public gatherings, while,during the Turkish rule, this flatarea had been “degraded” to amarket.The imposing buildings of 62

arches on the windows, as well ORZHUSDUWRQWKHside wasas the subsequent building that completed one hundred yearswas used as the residence of later. It was a three-storeyeach Despot and by members building, with a large numberof the Kantakouzenos family, of apartments, basements andconstructed just after 1350. Next arches.to it, there is a large kitchen and “Fragopoulos Mansion”, next toa series of cisterns. the monastery of Pantanassa, which was founded by theThe well-known impressive, owner of the mansion, has aunified, two-storey building, a similar layout and orientationcomplete, independent imperial to the “Laskaris Residence”residence, and typical example (or “Mansion”) (that will beof the secular architecture of presented below) and it certainlythe time cover the northwest dates back to the beginningside of the square. The of the 15th century. The stonebasement was full of arches, successive arches on the cornicewhile the first floor hosted of the balcony show that theeight separate apartments. owners had good taste andBut what truly lets the visitor’s they enhanced the attractiveimagination “go wild” is the appearance of their residence,description and visualisation without taking into account theof the second floor, the single extra cost.luxurious hall measuring 10 x36 metres. The “Throne Room” As for the “Laskaris Mansion”or “Chrysotriklinon” (golden that belonged to the famouschamber), with the numerous Byzantine family, it is locatedarched windows, the eight very close to the main gatefireplaces and the glamorous of Mystras and it is a largedecoration, a mixture of parallelogram imposing buildinginfluences from Constantinople with its façade on its narrowand the West, surely highlighted, side, looking to the north. It is anin all its majesty, the financial, elegant, two-storey building withmilitary and spiritual power of a large balcony, a substantialthe town of Mystras… number of decorative elements and an arched sheltered groundLuxurious Residences floor that was probably used asThree are the main old private a stable.buildings in Mystras, thesurviving parts of which witness The Gates of Mystrasthe wealth, the tastefulness The external courtyard of theand the financial prosperity of wall had a total of three gates,the equivalent families in the each of them with its own uniquecastle-town. The “Palataki” beauty. Today, two of them,(Small Palace) or “Archontiko” one in the “Upper” (“Ano”) and(Mansion) above the church of one in the “Lower Town” (“KatoAgios Nikolaos used to be one of Chora”) facilitate on a dailythe most luxurious in town. Its basis the magical passage of theupper section with the tower was modern visitor to the turbulentinitially build in PLGWK world of the Byzantium. TheFHQWXU\, whereas the additional Main Gate is located just a few 63

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meters away from the ample car present the latest findings ofpark and the Upper Gate just the archaeological and historicalbefore the monastery of Agia research. The exhibited itemsSophia Zoodotou. The “Gate describe in detail everyday lifeof Monemvasia” or “Iron Gate” in the Byzantine times, tradewas the only entrance and link and the flourish of the arts inbetween the “Upper” (“Ano”) Mystras. The luxurious jewellery,and the “Lower Town” (“Kato the official costumes and the hairChora”). It was an arched iron of a noble woman that has beenportcullis and was protected by preserved intact, the handmadea strong four-sided tower with gospels with the calligraphicembrasures, able to provide verses and the reproduction of adefence in case of an attack by dress of the time, along with thea large number of heavily armed matching shoes, are some of thesoldiers. The “Gate of Nafplio” exhibits that stand out. Visitingor “Pyli t’Anapliou” was also very this extremely interesting sitestrong, with its iron-moving is a must, as it is an educativedoor that was strongly fortified experience and it perfectly andwith a complex of square and realistically completes the uniquecircular towers and, as its name walk at the hill of Mystras…suggests, it was mainly usedby the travellers whose final i Opening hours of thedestination was Nafplio... archaeological site and the museumThe Museum of MystrasIt started operating officially in Winter opening hours1952 and it is now housed in a From the 1st oftwo-storey building at the north November to the 31st ofcourtyard of the Metropolis. March: 08: - 15:00In 2001, the permanentexhibitionwas reorganised,with Summer opening hoursa new thematic, museological 2SHQLQJKRXUVFDQEHand museographical approach, H[WHQGHGGHSHQGLQJRQalso dictated by the need to DYDLODELOLW\RIVWXIIThe museum of Mystras/ MOS. &ORVHGRQ VWRI-DQXDU\The gate of Monemvasia is the WKRI0DUFKonly entrance to the second wall (DVWHU6XQGD\of Mystras, which led from the VWRI0D\Lower Town to the aristocratic WKDQGWKRIneighbourhood and the palaces 'HFHPEHU96\NDV. General admission: Ε Reduced admissionΕ Tel. 27310  65

HOLY MONASTERIES OF THE MUNICIPALITY OF SPARTA Devoutness, unaffected by time…Holy Monastery of Agioi AnargyrL96\NDV. 66

The observant visitor of the the previously mentioned areas,area, as well as the novice dared to grow into sturdy andscholar of the wider history of fortified building complexes,the Municipality of Sparta, may sometimes providing safety tosee and reach the conclusion the monks, and other timesthat the area’s monasteries are arousing envy to the infuriatedbuilt, in their majority, on a attackers. The cave-like oldrelatively higher altitude and in monastery of Agioi Tessarakontainaccessible and impenetrable near Chryssafa, the Panagiaplaces. The reason is very clear Lagkadiotissa at Parori, theand obvious. Following the mass renowned Katafygiotissa andrelocation of lowland village Agios Ioannis Prodromos atresidents to higher regions, Tzitzina and a multitude ofplateaus and inaccessible religious centres and pilgrimageravines, in order to reconstruct sites of the Municipality oftheir settlements and manage to Sparta, are typical examples ofsurvive away from the merciless what was stated earlier. Many ofraids of Turkish, Albanian, these are dated at the beginningFrankish and other military and the middle of the 13thtroops and bandits, the newly century, testifying the formerbuilt monastery communities heyday of asceticism, a practicecould not be situated very far that owes a lot to St. Nikonaway from their modest, local, “Metanoeite” (the Repenter) whohuman cells. The two, protected came to the area and is todayand helped each other out the patron saint of Sparta. Induring the hardships of the wars, addition, many churches wereand this link was strengthened constructed right after theeven further by the territorial conquest of Constantinople, andand morphological choices to bear names of its very famousinaugurate monasteries in caves, churches...steep slopes, gorges and ravinesof the beautiful tributaries of Holy Monastery of GolaEurotas. A large number of This monastery is in fact thesmall monasteries, located in holy monastery of ZoodochosThe depictions of ancient Philosophers on theZHVW wall of the narthex are a rareelement for a Christian Orthodox monaster\96\NDV. 67

Pigi, built in a great spot above evidence, the Monastery of Golathe Goranoi village, at the feet was built, it managed to playof southern Taygetus. Here, an important role, both for theat an altitude of 840 metres continuous spiritual uplifting ofapproximately, the Slavic the striving enslaved Greeks andnickname “Gola” which stands as a significant economic factorfor “bare place, inadequate for for the local people.cultivation”, prevailed upon the The recent restoration andofficial name of the monastery, renovation of the monastery’sin such a degree that the building, reveal its strongcharacteristic phrase of the locals defensive and fort-like“even Gola produced wheat” character, which however wassuggesting something practically not enough to intercept theimpossible, is still in use until warlike Bardouniotes Albaniansnowadays. who destroyed it, pillaged itThe monastery site, filled with and stole all its possessions,firs, black pines and chestnut while the monks fled to alltrees, has always posed a directions, in order to returnchallenge to the monks who after the liberation, determinedstrived, insistently and in vain, to repair it and cultivate againto cultivate the barren grounds its barren grounds. In 1922,of the wider area. Nevertheless, it has been annexed to theeven as early as the 15th Zerbitsa monastery and seencentury, when, based on written its property been sold off, butThe monastery is built on the north side of a buttress overlooking Taygetus,while to the west there is a dense fir forest96\NDV68

The Catholicon of the Monastery is filled with wall paintings of Dimitrios Kakkavas96\NDVtoday after the start of its new western wall of the temple’s“life” cycle, sometime around narthex to identify, surprised,1963, it is highly active again the depictions of Homer, Solon,and invites the visitors to admire Thucydides, Plutarch, Aristotle,both the remaining, exquisite Plato, Sibyl and the even moremurals of Dimitrios Kakkavas, rare portrayal of Chilon theand to visually examine the Lacedaemonian who, for the 69

The Catholicon of the Monastery of Kastri, filled with wall paintings96\NDVfirst time, was painted here Monastery of Gola, is anin Gola. This is also the most extraordinary choice for thesoutherly depiction of historic traveller and has many morefigures in a Christian temple beautiful stories and traditions toin the country and a very rare tell to the tireless visitor…example of its kind, since St.Dimitrios at Chryssafa is the only )RURSHQLQJKRXUVFRQWDFWWKHother church in the Peloponnese +RO\0HWURSROLVRI0RQHPYDVLDbearing wall paintings of just DQG6SDUWDDWfour ancient Greek philosophers.Their coexistence with Christian Holy Monastery of KastriOrthodox saints, in the excellent Located in a relativelyexample of the monastery of advantageous site, very close toGola, can be interpreted in one the entrance of the Kastri villageof the two possible ways. Either and halfway into a cave on athe local residents, enslaved rocky bulge of a green valley,Greeks, carried by a strong the monastery of the Dormitionfeeling to save and conserve of Theotokos, as it is “officially”the ancient Greek memory, called, unfolds a glorious multi-took such very rare initiatives, centennial Christian Orthodoxor the enlightened religious tradition. The first evidencepainter, managed to find of the inauguration of a smallequally supportive aficionados beautiful church, preserved untilof the Greek antiquity withinthe Christian community, andtogether decided to pay tributeto the ancient philosophers.Whatever the reason, the70

7he monasteryRI.DVWUL0XQLFLSDOLW\RI6SDUWDnow, a bit lower than the existing other things, the Catholiconmonastery, is dated at the of the temple was painted bymiddle of the 9th century, but the renowned religious painterthis cannot be verified. However, Dimitrios Kakkavas, who, duringit is certain that the monastery the same period, was workingwas ruined in June 1460, by the with the same ardour at thetroops of the famous Mohamed Monastery of Gola, at AgioiII the Conqueror, after a strong Anargyroi of Mt. Parnon andresistance by the, unknown at Profitis Ilias in the village ofby many, military commander Georgitsi.Prinokokkas, the man who In 1715, the year when thealthough stood witness of the retreat of Venetians wasdecline of Mystras and the followed by a new wave ofeasy surrender of Morea to the Ottoman Turks, the MonasteryOttoman Turks, organised here of Kastri, entered a new phase ofa military operation hoping for prolific and creative renovationthe best. Having already seen and restructuring, as a newmany of his comrades-in-arms Catholicon was built and wasdie from hunger and deprivation, merged with the quarters ofhe was captured and flayed alive, the south wing. Furthermore,while the attackers impaled three at its historic glebe, thehundred locals in total… reconciliation of Dimitrios and Thomas Palaiologos, brothersThose old dark times were of Constantine Palaiologos,followed, at the dawn of the 17th took place with the exchange ofcentury (1600 to 1615), by a vows for the termination of thesubstantial and large restoration senseless internal strife.of the monastery when, among During the revolution, with the 71

contribution and the tireless Theotokos crafted by Kakkavasefforts of the eminent prior and a rare depiction of St. NikonPagkratios Oikonomou, the Metanoeite (the Repenter), offerimposing building complex was unique, touching moments andcomplemented by workshops, experiences...mills, oil presses and a textilewatermill that together with Open daily, from 09:00 to 13:00the large lands of olive groves, and from 16:00 until sunset.vineyards and all types of For information call: 27310 –gardens, increased rapidly 57238its income, part of which wasredistributed for the immediate Holy Monastery ofneeds of the armed combat for Katafygiotissathe liberation of Morea from A small drive away from thethe Turks. Similarly, during the centre of the Anogeia village infirst years after the destruction the plains, and two kilometresof Asia Minor, the monastery after the characteristicdistributed generously its assets intersection leading to theto a significant number of monastery, only the religiousPontiac Greek immigrants who tourism enthusiasts, meaningsettled in the wider area. those who are moved by the feeling and the calmness that aFor the contemporary Christian wondrous pilgrimage in naturevisitor, apart from the green can offer, gaze in awe thisscenery and the fort-like man-made structure, partlyarchitecture, the miraculous simple and out of stone andpicture of Virgin Mary holding partly carefully maintainedbaby Jesus, the Dormition of the and whitewashed, suspended imposingly from the cavityThe humble entrance of the of a very steep rock. To bemonastery of Kastri.96\NDV more precise, it is located ten kilometres away from Sparta and 72 three kilometres in total from Anogeia, while the visitor can also look for the path covering the distance from the village to the monastery, which is approximately a half an hour walk. Dedicated to Panagia Zoodochos Pigi (Life-giving Spring), the small monastery was named Katafygiotissa probably because it served as a shelter for the fighters and refugees of the early and pre-revolution The Monastery of Katafygiotissa is standing on an imposing sit LQWKHFDYLW\RIDVWHHSURFN96\NDV

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0RQDVWHU\RI.DWDI\JLRWLVVD7KH icon of Virgin Mary96\NDV.times mainly, but also during the temple of Christianity but of ahard years of the struggle that wildly beautiful impenetrablefollowed. Carved in the rock at castle, soaked in the blood andthe north side of the “Kakaris” sweat of the attackers and thestream, a branch of Eurotas, defenders…you realise in awe that this firstimage of the monastery does not The exact date of itsremind you at all of a religious inauguration is unknown, however based on well foundedA stalactitic decoration in the form of studies, its Catholicon wasa cross, found in a cave under the definitely constructed beforemonastery96\NDV the end of the 19th century, 74 since the inner portal dates from 1872 and the renovations sign, materialised by donations of the residents of Anogeia, belongs to 1870. The local and “simplistic” tradition often speaks of the existence of an “ancient” monastery at the same site. Having the steep mountain slope soaring at its back, the double gates of the rather modest building initially lead to an open courtyard with terraces, a small garden and a tank for collecting rainwater, forming an ideal place

for resting and taking a breath was built on the ruins of a SUHof fresh air. Then the complex H[LVWLQJtemple, which inrises to the second tier, where turn was constructedthe quarters and the Catholicon on the foundations of an ancientdominate, and the enchanted Greek building from the 3rdvisitor passes through a roofed century before Christ. Thiscorridor with embrasures in beautiful monastery flourishedits entire length. A stop to the and thrived, has hosted hordescavernous single-room temple of of pilgrims and helped an evenZoodochos Pigi, where the rock larger number of people, aroundof the cave plays naturally the the middle of the 17th centuryrole of the church’s dome and and afterwards. It stoicallythe light invades through the sustained the looting raids offew, modest windows, rewards Albanian bandits after the failedthe passer-by with its exquisite revolution attempt of the Orloffbeauty and solemn ambience. family, it patiently enduredGoing back out into the light, to and also supported the Greekadmire the view to the ridge of revolution of 1821, until it wasTaygetus, Toriza and Dipota to burned by the troops of Ibrahimthe west, as well as the Laconian in 1826. Today, designated sincefields to the east, one stands 1962 as a historic protectedand continues to live this truly monument, and although duringreligious experience, one of its long and turbulent historymany that the Municipality of it was a monastery for maleSparta also has to offer in this monks only, it is run by a womandomain… and houses sixteen more nuns, preserving important elementsIt is open to the public on the of the grandeur and the pious15th of each month, in the atmosphere that its many visitorsafternoon, celebrating the always experienced…evening mass.For visiting on another day, caOOWKe Holy Metropolis ofMonemvasia and Sparta at thisnumber: 27310 – 26850Holy Monastery of Panagia Detail from a church of the MonasteryZerbitsis of Zerbitsa96\NDV“Erected from the depths of theground (1639)… covered with 75frescoes, embellished, in the yearof our Lord 1669, in August1…”Reads the sign welcomingthe visitor to the monastery,adorning the temple’s lintel that

Based on findings, the Catholicon of the Monastery of Panagia Zerbitsa seemsto have been built on the site of a previous Byzantine monument96\NDVAt a distance of about twenty slope of Mt. Taygetus, filled withkilometres away from the walnuts, oaks and kermes oaks.charming Sparta, and exactly The carefully selected location,three kilometres after the both in terms of the expansiveintersection of Dafni, on the natural splendour of the arearoad connecting Xirokampi and and with regard to the defensiveArna, the relaxing drive ends qualities of the area, justify theat an altitude of 700 metres impression of a fortified castleapproximately, in a green sub- that immediately springs upmountainous expanse on a in the minds of newcomers.76

The tall stone wall, seeming so The relief Byzantine two-headed eagle,unwelcoming to the tiny human made of marble, dominates the middlefigures facing it, hides within of the monastery’s floor96\NDVan exactly opposite impressionfrom the one assumed at first 77glance. The cobbled passagewaybehind the heavy gate, leadsto a charming patio, filled withflowers and crowned by thewarm and hospitable welcome

in 0DUDWKRQLVLQRZ*\WKLRQ. At a later period, it also owned the glebe of *ROD, .RXPEDULDQG .DVWULwhich were developed into independent monasteries and followed their own religious existence, without diminishing the exquisite beauty and pious ambience that the travellers may experience until today, when they arrive at the gate of the holy monastery of Panagia Zerbitsis…The bell tower and entrance of the Monastery telephone number:Monastery of Zerbitsa96\NDV 27310 – 35091 Visiting hours: 8:00 – 12:00,of the nuns who are always 16:00 – 20:00willing to help the traveller,always calm and gracious, with Holy Monastery ofa delicious treat in their hand Agioi Anargyroi (Holyand the bonhomie of people Unmercenaries)who have renounced the worldly The characterization of thislife for a higher purpose. There, monastery as one of the mostunder the cool shade of a large important monasteries of theand imposing age-long plane Orthodox Christianity in thetree, occupying the biggest wider area of Mt. Parnon is fullypart of the patio, one can justified. It is also among thelearn about the first probable oldest monasteries of Laconiaowner of the monastery. The and not only, since although itstradition speaks about the official inauguration is lost in thenoble ruler Zerbos who, coming depths of time, there are clearfrom Constantinople, decided testimonies and evidence thatto inaugurate the monastery it already existed in the middlebearing his name, after a three- of the 9th century. At exactlyday search, at the spot where ten kilometres away from thehe finally found the icon of the beautiful Tzitzina and after fourTheomitor (Mother of God). 7KH kilometres on an easy and well-PRQDVWHU\RI2XU/DG\ kept dirt road, the visitor, who0DYURPROLWLVVDLQ probably stopped first to admire&RQVWDQWLQRSOHLVUHIHUUHGDVD the sub-mountainous sceneryJOHEHRI=HUELWVDDVZHOODVWKH of Parnon’s lush vegetation,PRQDVWHU\RI6W*HRUJH faces now the impressive fort- like architecture, with the tall, 78 seemingly impenetrable walls, which form an imposing and massive quadrilateral…

The Catholicon of the Monastery of Agioi Anargyroi96\NDVThe built-in embrasures, significant destructions tookwith their small openings for place around 1611, as Sarantosblunderbusses among other Kargakos testifies verbally andthings, the thickness of the walls in writing, when the Catholiconconstructed later as well as the was razed to the ground andexistence of ruins of the base of reconstructed, in the form ofa defensive tower, prove that this a single-room, cross shaped,gorgeous Christian structure saw un-pillared, three-niche templewars, hardships, destructions with a dome. Earlier of course,and sieges. One of these the first solid proof of the AgioiThe Monastery of Agioi Anargyroi is located on a plateau of Parnon96\NDV 79

Dimitrios Kakkavas is responsible for the execution of the wall paintings adorningthe church of Agioi Anargyroi96\NDVAnargyroi monastery’s existence completed the marvellous wallis traced in a royal decree paintings of the church, leavingof the emperor Andronikos behind a masterpiece, filledPalaiologos dated in 1293, when with a wide variety of depictedthe monastery was included in themes. In 1685, Morosinithe count of the Monemvasia and the Turks destroyed themetropolis’s grounds. monastery which was activeAbout that time in 1621, the again shortly after, accordingfamous religious painter of to the date mentioned on thethe area, Dimitrios Kakkavas, temple’s templon (screen), in80

1711. However, two centuries which was painted in 1949later, in 1943, it was once more by Fotis Kontoglou, as well ason the brink of destruction, for the extensive maintenancewhen German soldiers burned works realised with funds of theits archives and looted almost “Stavros Niarchos” foundation.its entire heritage. Today, after Apart from these, thea new period of bloom, the monastery’s energetic superior,monastery of Agioi Anargyroi archimandrite PRUI\ULos, togethercan boast, among other things, with an ambitious group offor the chapel of Agioi Apostoloi monks, participate in charities 81

both in Greece and in distressed massive natural rock as a roof.Third World countries... A few exquisite murals painted by Konstantinos Manassis,Telephone number: one of the most prominent27310 – 73225 Lacedaemonian religious paintersVisiting hours: Daily, of the time, are still saved.07:00 – 12:00 and 16:00 – 18:30 This unique emotive space, the “Paliomonastiro” (old monastery)Holy Monastery of Agioi bears on one hand the writtenTessarakonta Megalomartyres testimony of an ascetic called(Forty Great Martyrs) Sofronios who speaks of theWhen the traveller exits from year 1305 and AndronikosSparta, heading towards Tripoli Palaiologos, but on the otherand immediately after the hand hints about a much earlierEurotas bridge, continuing right construction date.and a few metres later, turning Whatever the case may be,left, the sign on the left side the new monastery situatedof the road indicates that the higher, on the spot where theimposing monastery is just one glebe of the former one was,kilometre away. Thus, twenty finally replaced it fully in termskilometres away from the town’s of significance, wealth andcentre, stands this historic participation to the struggles ofmonastery offering an impressive the enslaved nation.view and occupying an evenmore impressive position, on The list of destructions, herethe stream of “Sofronis”. Very too, is unfortunately very longclose to this area, and probably and follows the same course asin 1305, the first monastery was many others. In 1770 it sufferedinaugurated with a cavernous an extensive fire caused by thetemple that largely had the troops of Albanian guerrillas,The old Monastery or “Palaiomonastiro” by the stream of Sofronis96\NDV82

Sculpture of two angels on the Beautiful Gate96\NDVafter the failed revolution of the and tour. It is a rare and highlyOrloff family and in 1826, the attractive sample of post-Egyptians under the commands byzantine architecture, a basilicaof Ibrahim, ignited once more with a cross-shaped style, anthe flame of destruction. Then, octagonal dome and a temple ofa large part of the monastery’s 150 square metres inauguratedCatholicon murals, masterpieces in 1620.of the Moschos brothers fromNafplio, were burned. Today, this The German troops, in 1943Catholicon is probably the most when many other monasteriesimportant part of the visitor’s of the area were also destructed,acquaintance with the monastery burned all the quarters of theThe Catholicon, Athonian style, and the chapel of Zoodochos Pigi96\NDV 83

The Catholicon of Agioi Tessarakonta Martyres96\NDVmonks and destroyed the east the monastery were transferredentrance of the complex, and as to the Metropolis of Sparta anda result the first years after its were spared.reconstruction and until now, The last renovation took placethe guests enter from the west recently with the contributionentrance. Fortunately, just a few and funds of the European Union,days before the invasion of the while a very active community ofNazis, the valuable Codes of sixteen monks cares for keeping 84

alive the link between modern Telephone number:visitors and the distant Christian 27310 – 26780and historic past of the area. The Visiting hours: Daily,significant monastery of Agioi 06:00 – 14:00 and 16:00 – 19:00Tessarakonta Megalomartyres,celebrates in full majesty on the9th of March... 85

WEST OF SPARTA And the first “exploration” begins…Concert of the State Orchestra of Athens at the Sainopouleio Amphitheatre96\NDVSparta’s proximity to natural monuments of inconceivable beauty, toarchaeological sites which are famous and glorified all over the world, towell-kept parks and well-designed small and large museums, as well asto numerous paths, shows that the historical capital of the Municipalitywith the same name with the Prefecture of Laconia, offers countlesstouring opportunities at a stone’s throw. The visitor who wishes to crossgorges, enter small chapels hanging on steep cliffs, follow the steps ofByzantine emperors, indulge in unique culinary delights, and exploreshady forests and frozen rivers, will cherish this truly unique place withall his senses... 86

The starting point for a nearby The 110 acre green grove96\NDVtour is the green village ofMagoula. The Liberal Schoolof Philosophy “Plethon” islocated here. The unforgettableacademician IoannisTheodorakopoulos establishedit and, even nowadays, it offerscourses of philosophy wheredistinguished scientists addressinteresting subjects. In otherwords, it has remained exactly 87

the same... The old mansion that Continuing northwest we meet thehouses the school, providing small village of Agia Irene formerly“shelter” to the true expression named Varsova from the slavicof Philosophy, Culture and wordNature, has a teaching class \"varcus\" meaning threshing floor.with a capacity of one hundred Inpeople, ideal for lectures, the center of the village is thecourses and events, supported churchby new technologies. The storey of St. Irene, built in the 18thof the building is dominated by century, with characteristic architectureTheodorakopoulos, right next to (cross-domed) and significant frescoes.(the former “hall”), which along The village is located on the bankswith the library and his personal of Knakion river, in a beautifularchive, create the appropriate scenery, where we find the arched“scenery” for study, consultations stone built bridge of Ai Sostis (lateand “round table” discussions… 18th-19th century) next to theIn the same area, homonymous church .The beautifulMagoula scenery is completed with old olivethe “Sainopouleio” Amphitheatre presses and watermills which oncespreads over a green grove constituted the base of theof 11 hectares, a proof of economic development of thehow much the locals value region.the environment. It features a Another historic monument locatedwell-equipped playground and north of the village is the Soupos'a water mill in a picturesque Tower with the characteristicravine. Here, at the location late-gothic arch, which is datedof the high quality “Cultural back to the late Byzantine period.Summer Festival”, there is also The route to Agia Irene is ideal forthe unique “Alley of the Poets” trekking and cycling.which leads to the amphitheatreand is decorated with busts of Thegreat Greek poets. AncientSpartan poets Alkmanas andTyrtaeus coexist with the famousNikiforos Vrettakos and YiannisRitsos, both of Laconian origin,along with Seferis, Palamasand Dionysios Solomos. With acapacity of almost 2,000 seatsand Taygetus and Mystras asa natural background, thisbeautiful amphitheatre is aunique cultural choice foreveryone…88

The legendary Kaiadas.../V. Sykas The bridge of Ai Sostis 96\NDV %DFNWR0DJRXODRQWKHURDGWR .DODPDWD, one can meet Trypi, adorned by stone-built houses, “washed” by gurgling streams and sheltered by century- old plane trees. The visitors, enjoy the crystal clear water of the springs of Karvasaras and Vasiloneri and admire the Byzantine churches of Agioi Theodoroi, Dormition of Theotokos and the derelict monastery of Ioannis Prodromos, in a green landscape, full of plane trees. The recently restored small churches of “Agiannakis” and Agia Triada are of great interest too. The village is also accessible from the west, through Mystras while, very near, there are several caves, with the most famous being the one of St. Nikon Metanoeite and the cave-porthole of Kaiadas... 89

According to the scarce available threw the dead body of theirhistorical references, Kaiadas is King Pausanias to Kaiadas, afterdefined as the place where the he was sentenced to death forSpartans would throw dangerous high treason.criminals and prisoners of war. The entrance of the cave hasHowever, some also identify it been banked up and today itswith “Apothetes”, where it is diameter is only half a metre. Itsbelieved that disabled or sickly explored section covers a lengthinfants were thrown, so as to of fifty metres and inclinationensure the eugenics of the ranges from 35 to 50 degrees. ItSpartan race. Strabo calls it “the was known since long ago thatword among the Lacedaemonians numerous bones were hidden infor their prison, which is a sort of it, as it was discovered duringa cavern”. Pausanias, describing the first systematic research thatthe escape of Aristomenes, a took place in 1983...hero of the second Messenianwar who was thrown there (along On the outskirts of Trypi, thewith another fifty Messenian bridge that connects its sidesprisoners of war), refers to a and offers to the visitor a trulysteep and deep gorge, similar wild landscape, with hugeto “Varathron” of the Athenians, vertical slopes and large greenthe opening of which was big hills, delineates the imposingenough only for a fox to pass ravine of Lagkada. There, rightthrough. According to tradition, at the 15th kilometre of thethe above-mentioned prisoner national road connecting Spartaof war managed to hold on the and Kalamata, and after havingwings of an eagle, during his crossed a beautiful artificial archfall, and then on the tail of a fox, on a cliff, which was constructedwhich led him to the much- when the road was opened,desired exit. The Spartans also stands its top-climbing field. TheThe cU\VWDOZDWHrVRIWKHVSULQJVLQ7U\SL0XQLFLSDOLW\RI6SDUWD.90

&OLPELQJILHOGRI/DJNDGD0XQLFLSDOLW\ and, at the exact same distanceRI6SDUWD further down starts “Splithari”, the newer and very importantamazing landscape with the 91 field of Lagkada, with anotherroutes of all levels of difficulty 21 routes. Taking into accountis what makes Lagkada one of that all the above spread outthe 5 best climbing fields in the at an altitude of 800 metres,country. Constant maintenance it is obvious that climbing iswork is taking place, both from considered to be difficult if notthe HMC of Sparta and from impossible during the winter,individual climbers, whereas while the period between thethere is also a shelter and a beginning of April and thetoilet. middle of November is the idealParking is allowed as suggested and safest solution. Moreover,by the relative signs. Right each field has a differentacross, starts a path and after orientation, which makeswalking for just three minutes, climbing particularly enjoyableit ends to the first two fields, during the summer months...“Aloni” and “Petsanes”, which The HMC of Sparta has caredfeature a total of 55 routes. On for the wooden constructionthe road, 150 metres further of a small, but rather practicaldown by car, starts the smaller shelter, known as “the littleone, “Stani”, with 4 routes and, house of Lagkada”, which wasafter a 50-metre dirt road from maintained in the summer ofthis spot, the charming ravine 2012 by loyal friends of thebed appears, with the car park. park. It can accommodate 7After only a two-minute walk or 8 people and it does notto the left, the path crosses have electricity, water or beds.“Tourlitsa”, with 11 routes, However, all the fields have ample space for tents, they are well secured, the routes have permanent relays and, apart from two, all the rest are single rope. Coming back from Lagkada, through a bypass that starts from Trypi and leads back to Sparta, the traveller can visit the renowned Mystras and the neighbouring villages. Pikoulianika, a settlement filled with vegetation, with lovely stone houses, is the ideal location to make a stop and take a rest. There are wonderful taverns, coffee shops and well-kept guesthouses in the settlement, offering a breathtaking view over the plains of Laconia and 91

The New Mystras is built on the foot of the medieval castle-town96\NDVMystras. From here, taking the the already amazed visitordownhill road and passing by reaches the centre of thethe upper and main gate of the village, where the best-knowncastle-town, the first houses of meeting point is defined by theNeos Mystras begin to appear. statue-symbol of ConstantineResidents who lived in the Palaiologos. At a small distance,higher walled hill initially built in the centre, stands a true assetthe village in 1825. Under the for the wider area, the recentlysound of the gurgling stream of established “Camera Museum of“Nerokarya” or “Vasilopotamos”, Takis Aivalis”, with an excellent92

collection of six hundred working of which is still evident. Theold cameras. It used to be the most characteristic exampleslargest private collection of this of this architectural style arekind worldwide, and thus it had the mansions of Sarsentis anddeservedly gained a place in the Manousakis, dating back to thebook of Guinness Records. beginning and the middle ofMystras features a large number the 19th century respectively.of well-kept stone-built two- Similarly, of the same chronologystorey and three-storey houses, and rare beauty is the imposingthe fortress-like structure “Π-shaped” stone school 93

The Camera Museum of Takis Aivalis96\NDVbuilding complex, while the well- streams and age-long planemaintained churches of the area, trees, offer culinary experiencessuch as Agios Georgios, Agios created with the purest productsSpyridon, Agioi Theodoroi, Agios of the Laconian earth, for everyIoannis (in Vouvaloi) and Agia demanding Greek and foreignVarvara, with their impressive connoisseur. For those whochurch towers and the beautiful have more stamina and aremurals, are an ideal addition in the mood for a tour, fromto the tour, before or after the Parori starts a wonderful path,unforgettable ascent on the hill which offers a unique viewof Mystras. over the gorge of Paroritis,Thus, driving through the leads to the cavernous chapelenchanting twisting road upto the small mountainous The statue of . Palaiologos at thesettlement of Taygete, on the village of New Mystras96\NDVeastern side of the mountain,in this famous part of theMunicipality of Sparta, isconsidered a welcomedadditional touring proposal. Justover a kilometre away from theentrance of Mystras, the formervillage of “Mparsinikos”, whichhas been inhabited at least since1700 and is now composed ofmany well-restored mansions,was actually the “mainland” ofthe castle-town at the time…On the road leading back totown, Parori and Agios Ioannisare perhaps the best optionsfor an ideal acquaintance withthe local cuisine. Taverns andrestaurants next to crystal-clear 94

The church of Agios Ioannis at Vouvaloi with the nearby fountain and its built-in Roman VDUFRSKDJXV9 6\NDV 95

The springs of “Keramos” on the central square of Parori96\NDVPanagia Lagkadiotissa is erected of Panagia Lagkadiotissa andon the left vertical slope of ends at Metamorfosi Sotirosan imposing ravine96\NDV (Transfiguration of the Saviour). Passing through Agios Ioannis, 96 the visitor will come across Anavryti, perched on the hills of Taygetus at an altitude of 850 metres, looking as if it stands on the back of a flat peak formed by two gorges. For a long time, it used to be the most important industrial centre of the area, while the inhabitants engaged mainly in tanning, waxes making, rope making, shoe making and livestock farming. Today, the Agios Nikolaos of Anavryti was built in 1625 and boasts an exquisite wood-carved templon96\NDV

97

Partial view of Anavryti, with the twin church tower of Agios Nikolaos standing out96\NDV 98

Anavryti has some very well preserved two-storey houses96\NDVvillage brings no reminiscence at +30 27310-81866 and +30of the vibrant trade centre of 27310-28166. Regardless ofthe past, but it is considered to the perspective one views thebe an elegant destination for village, the twin church towerstranquillity and relaxation. (the first one dated to 1700 andMany of the main paths of the second one to 1903) of AgiosTaygetus start from the village Nikolaos that was constructed inor cross the village, such as the 1625 with a wonderful templonwell-known European E4 route. (screen), predominate the sceneAt the entrance of Anavryti, majestically. Additionally, thethe old stone school which was visitor can admire numerousconstructed in 1900 and was churches, inside and outsidea bequest of Andreas Syngros, the village, which were builtmay have fallen to silence, as during the Byzantine andthe pupils’ voices are not heard post-Byzantine periods. Agiosany more, but it currently hosts Nikolaos, Agioi Theodoroi,the “Botanical and Geological monastery of Zoodochos PigiMuseum of Taygetus”, where (at the location of “Zagouna”),samples of rocks of the Monastery of Faneromeni (2kmwider area are exhibited and out of the village), Monasteryinformation on the various flora of Agios Dimitrios (which hasspecies is provided. Entrance also operated as a centre foris free, upon arrangement with ecclesiastical studies), Panagiathe Municipality of Sparta, of Karavas, the chapel of Agia Paraskevi and many others, asPanagia “Zagouna” stands in the cave long as one has zest for hikingof a vertical rock and the shrine through the lush vegetation,of its Catholicon is filled with well- paths and streams…maintained muralV96\NDV 99

SOUTH OF SPARTAAn exceptional touring experience...The excavationsat Amyklaion/Ministry of CultureThe villages of the former Municipality of Faris, with its former seatat Xirokambi, dispersed in the vast fertile land between Eurotas andTaygetus, are the epitome of the ideal “marriage” of History, folklore,living primeval tradition and natural beauty. Moreover, one can easily seethat the looked-after guest houses, the taverns and the shops sellinglocal products, guarantee, throughout the year, a pleasant, relaxing andtasty accommodation. Thus, this unforgettable journey begins with thebest travel omens…Departing from Amykles and kilometres away from Sparta, onarriving at Xirokambi… the road to Gytheio, this village,Few areas in the entire region on its fertile grounds, filled withencompass such a majestic orchards and olive groves, hashistorical background and hosted human souls since atglorious past like Amykles least four thousand years ago.(ancient name Amyclae). Just five It was a significant Mycenaean100