Finishing and Packing Study Book

Apparel Finishing and Packing TRAINEE STUDY BOOK Education> Employment> Earnings

TRAINEE MODULE 1QUALIFICATIONS OF A FUSING, FINISHING,IRONING, & PACKING TECHNICIAN INGARMENT INDUSTRY Learning Objectives In this module, you will learn the important elements of a quality garment. As a trainee who will operate fusing or trimming or ironing or packing, you must know the machines and equipment used in these operations. You must also learn what the quality of a garment will be when all these operations are performed. In this session you will learn: 1. Skills required for fusing and ironing equipment operators 2. Basic skills for a fabric and garment checkers and trimmers 3. Skills of a Packer Key Points 1. Skills to operate machines and equipment 2. Identification and recording fabric and stitch defects 3. Reading and writing skillsMain ContentThe total production of garments finally depends upon their quality. The appear-ance or look of the garment and its presentation in a beautiful packing dependson the fusing operator, checker, trimmer, ironer, and packer. If you have to workas any one of these, you must have an idea about garments and the machines andequipment used for these activities. You must also know how to read and write. As a fusing operator, you must know how to read and write because the fus-ing machine pressure, temperature, and time are written and marked. The fabricchecker must know the basic differences of different fabrics and what are the© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. 1

defects to check in them. Similarly, the garment checker and trimmer must knowdefects in a garment. The ironer must know how to use the industrial ironingmachine and the vacuum table, and a packer must know what a packing ratio isand how to pack different types of garments. The person who wishes to work must be literate and must be able to read andwrite. The person must be able to recognize colors. He or she must be able tocoordinate eyes and hands as basic skills. To test all these, you must appear forsome simple tests at the training center.1. Procedure to select trainees Fill out the application form with the candidate personal details: name, address, parents’ or husband’s name, proof of identity, and proof of age.2. Appear for some tests to learn if you are suitable to be a checker, trimmer, fusing machine operator, ironer, or packer. The tests conducted for selection are primarily to check the hand and eye coordination, understanding machines and equipment, recognizing defects and color blindness.Recognition of Alphabets and NumbersThis is a test to find your ability to read and write Procedure for the test A chart of English alphabets in capital letters is placedin front of you. You have to recognize each alphabet.The trainer will mark the number of correct alphabetsyou have recognized. You are then shown a chart ofEnglish alphabets in small letters. You must identifyeach of the alphabets and the trainer will mark thenumber of alphabets that you have recognized. Next,the trainer will give you a chart of numbers from 0 to5,000. You have to say each number and the trainer willmark the correct numbers you have recognized. The total of all the correct answers of alphabet andnumber recognition will be your final score.Writing TestIn this test, you are tested for your writing ability. Procedure for TestThe trainer will announce the alphabets at random and you have to write thealphabet on the test paper given to you. Thereafter, the trainer will say numbersand you have to write the number on the same paper.2 Qualifications of a Fusing, Finishing, Ironing, & Packing © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Technician in Garment Industry

The total number of correct answers you have written will be the score for thetest.Fabric RecognitionThis test is conducted to know your knowledge of fab-rics. This is useful to checkers and ironers, who mustknow the fabric for stain removal and ironing. Procedure for Test In this test, ten fabric swatchesare placed in front of you. You haveto recognize each fabric swatch ascotton, silk, polyester, linen, wool,etc. You will mark a tick against theswatch name in a chart given to you.Based on the number of swatchescorrectly identified, the candidate isscored.Garment RecognitionThis is a test for you to recognize thedifferent garments by name. In thegarment industry, different types ofgarments are made and each of themhas a name. Procedure for Test A set of garments is placed on atable. The candidate is asked to rec-ognize each garment and tick in the test card given. The garments will be: ladiesshirt, men’s shirt, pajama set, pants, leggings, jeans, boxer shorts, camisole,denim jacket and skirt. The number of correct answers is counted and it will bethe score.Color blindness testThe color blindness test is used to check color vision deficiencies. This test isconducted to check the colors that you can recognize as a checker and the shadevariations in a color. Shade of fabric is also important for an ironer. Procedure for Test You are shown 12 color dotted plates. Each plate has a number hidden in it.You have to recognize and say the number.© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Qualifications of a Fusing, Finishing, Ironing, & Packing 3 Technician in Garment Industry

You are given 5 seconds of time. At the end of the test, you will be assessed based on as many numbers as yourecognize.4 Qualifications of a Fusing, Finishing, Ironing, & Packing © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Technician in Garment Industry

TRAINEE MODULE 2 INTRODUCTION TO FUSING, FINISHING, IRONING, & PACKING IN GARMENT INDUSTRY Learning Objectives The garment has many sections or departments where garments are made from fabrics. To make the garment attractive, it must have a good collar and nice color, and be nicely pressed and packed with colorful tags. To make a proper garment, it must have a collar that has good shape. The garment must be made of fabric without any defects and its color must be attractive. The garment must be neatly ironed and packed. Different equipment and machines are used to get neatly packed garments. In this session you will learn: 1. Different processes used to make a garment appear neat and clean 2. The equipment used 3. The appearance of the garment Key Points 1. Fusing 2. Finishing 3. Packing Main Content The fabric is checked in the fabric store. There will be different types of defects in the fabric received from the suppliers. These fabrics are checked by trained checkers who identify a defect and mark it. Thereafter the fabrics are cut in the cutting section using industrial cutting machines. Some of the cut parts, like collar, cuff, and pocket, have shape. The shape of these parts has to remain intact even after many washes. So, a thin material is placed between the two layers of collar parts. This is called interlining and it is fixed to the collar fabric with the help of a machine called a fusing machine.5 © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

In the Sewing section, the parts are sewn and assembled into a garment. There-after, the sewn garments are sent to another section called Finishing. Here theloose ends and extra threads are trimmed using a device. Then any stains on thegarments are removed using stain removing chemicals. Any loose threads onthe garments are removed using a machine. The garments are then ironed andpressed using a steam iron and body presses. The completed garments are then folded using fold machines and supports.Tags are placed on the garments. They are then packed in poly bags of suitablesize and sealed. The packed garments are then placed in cartons and each cartonis sealed and marked. Each of these activities require trained persons. Thecommon requirement for all these operations is that theperson must have basic knowledge of fabrics, stitches,and seams. In addition, each operation is specializedand requires specific knowledge of the operation.Fabric CheckingThe fabric checker must know and identify the defectsin fabric such as in weaving and knitting. The personmust be able to recognize variations in color, shade,width.FusingThis operation requires the person to have knowledgeof an interlining and its importance in a garment. Theperson must know the different types of fusing materi-als and how to operate a fusing machine.TrimmingThe garments sewn have to be checked for any left-overthreads. The person who will trim the thread must haveknowledge of the stitch and seam so that the stich is notdamaged while trimming. Similarly, know how to trimwithout causing damage to the garment.Stain RemovingDifferent types of stains may be on the garments as theyare handled in the sewing section. The checker who workson the stains must have knowledge of these stains andthe cause. Many chemicals are used to remove ­different6 Introduction to Fusing, Finishing, Ironing, & Packing © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. in Garment Industry

stains and the person has to be trained to recognize thetype of stain, what caused it, and the chemical that canbe used to remove it.Ironing and PressingEvery garment is made with different fabric and shape.While ironing a garment, the person must know howto read the ironing symbols on the wash care label ofthe garment. The iron box must have the recommendedheat. Different garments need different equipment topress and iron. The person who is trained in operationsof this equipment to press and iron garments suitably iscalled an ironer.FoldingFinished garments are packed as instructed by the cus-tomer. These instructions have to read properly by the person and must useequipment for folding. Where there is no equipment, the person must be trainedto make templates for folding of required size.PackingPacking is a set of operations starting with placing a tag on the garment, usingthe prescribed packing material and carton. The person trained as a packer in alloperations of packing must be able to write on the carton the prescribed markingand make a packing list.© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Introduction to Fusing, Finishing, Ironing, & Packing 7 in Garment Industry

Notes8 Introduction to Fusing, Finishing, Ironing, & Packing © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. in Garment Industry

TRAINEE MODULE 3 GARMENT QUALITY & SPECIFICATIONS Learning Objectives The trainee will learn, in this session, the quality of the garments that he or she needs to finish and pack. While the trainee works in the finishing and packing section in a garment industry, the quality of the garment must be checked carefully before packing it. Therefore in this session you will learn: 1. Quality of garment as required by customer 2. Shape and measurements 3. Appearance of a garment Key Points 1. Quality of garment 2. Measurement and shape as per sample 3. Presentation of garment Main Content As a trainee, you must learn the quality of a garment. The final quality of a gar- ment depends on how it is finished and presented in packing. The fabric checkers, trimmers, ironers, and packers are all responsible for the quality of the g­arment. The quality of a garment depends on various factors. First, the garment qual- ity depends on the fabric being used. If the quality of fabric is not checked, the garment quality will not be acceptable. Many quality characteristics of fabric are checked, some by tests and some such as for shrinkage and by physical examina- tion, like defects in yarn.9 © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

To retain the shape of its parts, interlining is used thatis fused to the fabric parts, such as in a collar, cuff, andplacket. The quality of fusing gives the required shape tothe parts of the garment. The finishing section is where the garment is given itsfinal look. Its appearance depends on the way it is cleanedof loose threads and stains. The ironing of the garmentgives it a distinct luster or sheen and makes it look appeal-ing. The ironing must not crease the sides of the sleeves,or make a crease on the cuffs. The folded shirt must showits collar elegantly with its brand label. The folding without creases or wrinkles andpacking in a good quality poly bag with cardboard support adds to the garment presenta-tion. The polybag must be transparent andcolorless. The various labels placed on the garmentmust be correct. The size label must be attachedon the correct-size garment and it must be vis-ible when seen through the polybag. It must bebelow the brand or main label.Shirt QualityThe shirt must have both the collar points similar andequal. Because this is the most visible part, it is importantto pay attention to its shape. When the collar is folded inhalf, the shoulder of the shirt must be folded equally. Ifthe collar is not properly attached to the shoulder of theshirt, it cannot be worn. The length of the shirt sleevesmust not exceed the wrist of the hand. The pocket mustbe correctly placed on the front and in its center. If theoverheated iron box is used on the collar, it will leave ashine on it and turns the shirt into poor quality. Whenworn, the collar must be fitting and buttoned with ease. There must be no stainsor dust on the shirt. A good quality shirt will have no fabric and sewing defects.All buttons must be securely stitched, including the small ones on the sleeveplacket. The last buttonhole must be stitched horizontally. Extra buttons of bothsizes must be stitched on the inside end of the button placket.10 Garment Quality & Specifications © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

Jacket QualityA jacket is worn as part of a suit or as a blazer.It must have a good lining and the seams mustbe defect free. The lining must be attached tothe body appropriately so that it will not hang.Buttons of suitable color and correct size mustbe used. The buttonholes sewn are key-holeshaped. The shoulders must have appropriate size shoulder pads so that thesewn shoulders appear round. The fusing and chest pieces used must match theweight of the fabric and not be too heavy or light. Pockets on the jacket must beplaced at the correct place on either front. Labelling on the jacket must be correct.There must be no iron creases on the sleeves and sides of the jacket. Extra but-tons must be available in a small bag in one of the pockets.Trouser QualityThe trouser must be of correct measurementsand the waist circumference must be indicatedon the size label. The waist band must be wellmade with interlining, which will not allow thewaist to roll over or fold up. The pocket bagsmust be sewn closed. The zipper of the pantsmust be of good quality and the slider mustbe well secured. The seat of the pants mustnot have any creases. But, its legs must havecreases if it is a formal one. All buttons mustbe securely stitched and extra button must bestitches on the inside. In case of checks and stripes, the sleevesand body fabric design must be matching. Thechecks or stripes on both the fronts must bematching. Similarly, in case of plain fabrics, allparts of the garment must be of the same shade.The garment measurements and its seams must be as specified in the measure-ment chart provided.© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Garment Quality & Specifications 11

Notes12 Garment Quality & Specifications © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

TRAINEE MODULE 4 INTERLINING, FUSING MACHINE, AND FUSING QUALITY Learning Objectives In this session, the trainee will learn about interlining, process of fusing, fusing machine, and quality of fusing. Interlining is important in garments where you need to have a shape, like collars and cuffs of shirts. The waist band of a pant needs to maintain its shape and size; similarly with the pant pockets and coat collars. Without interlining, all these garments do not look attractive. So, in this session you will learn: 1. Interlining and their types 2. Fusing of interlining with fusing machine 3. Quality of fusing Key Points 1. Interlining 2. Fusing machines 3. Quality of fusing and bond strength Main Content Interlining is a layer of fabric placed between two pieces of a fabric to give the two layers a body. If it is placed between two pieces of a collar or cuff they ap- pear thicker and they maintain a shape. Depending on the application, interlin- ing materials can be woven, knitted, or non-woven. Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. Some interlinings are designed to fuse or get fixed to fabric. Some of them are sewn to one or both lay- ers of the fabric. Interlinings are used in a number of applications in garments.13 © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

Interlining makes the difference between a goodwinter coat and a great one. The interlining also gives drapes a better form andfuller body. In quilting, a layer of interlining canoffer an extra bit of fluffiness, along with warmthin the winter. With the use of interlining, garmentsacquire shape, style, and a luxurious look and feel,while preserving the durability of the garment andmaintaining its endurance.Use of interlining in garments1. Women and girls: blouses, dresses, skirts, jackets, blazers, coats - Non-woven, woven, and knit.2. Men and boys: pants, jackets, blazers - Woven, knits, wefts, haircloths3. Shirt interlinings - Collars, cuffs, button backs, plackets - woven, non-woven, knitted.Types of InterliningInterlinings as the name suggests, are elements usedin the construction of a garment to improve its ap-pearance, shape, durability and body. It is used inthose parts of the garments like collar, cuffs, pocketflap, front placket, jacket front, waistband of a pant.Interlinings are available in different colours tomatch the fabric to which they have to be fused. There are two types of interlinings – fusible andnon-fusible. Fusible interlinings are those that havea chemical or resin coating applied on one of thesurfaces with which the interlining is fused to thesurface fabric when heat is applied. These interlin-ings are used in shirts, pants, jackets, skirts, etc. Thisgives firmness to the fabric, and the parts wherefusible interlining is applied retain required shape.Non-fusible interlinings are commonly used forbody and strength as in the case of pant and jacketwaistband, and pocket openings. Interlinings aremade of either non-woven or woven fabrics.14 Interlining, Fusing Machine, and Fusing Quality © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

Non-wovenNon-woven interlinings are made of polyester, cot-ton, and viscose. Some of these interlinings are fusibleand non-fusible. Non-wovens interlinings are used ingarments. Depending on the weight, interlining canbe used from stitched chest piece cover (heavy inter-linings) to small parts such as pocket flap.WovensWoven interlinings are made of cotton, viscose, mix-tures, and nylon. Fusible and non-fusible interliningsused for front parts and small parts and seams forblazers, jackets, etc. Woven bi-elastic Interlining is available in polyes-ter and Viscose with natural, but controlled stretchin both directions. These are used in women’s andmen’s garments like outerwear and offer volume,soft handle, crease-recovery, and high elasticity.KnitsThey are available in polyester and nylon. They are often used for dresses, coats,and blouses. They give crosswise stretch and lengthwise stability. Tricots (jerseys) & Warp knitted Interlining –They are used in women’s and men’s garments.e.g., blazers, coats, etc. These are available inpolyester and nylon. The properties of knittedinterlining in general are adaptability and flex-ibility, ensuring maintenance of the elasticity ofthe outer fabric, a flexible/soft handle, volume,firmness, and a perfect fit form.Selecting interliningDepending on which part of the garment, suit-able interlining must be selected. The base fabricof the interlining defines many of its properties,for example the stretch in knitted material. Thefinishing and coating of the interlining adds orremoves properties, for example color, handle ofthe interlining, and the fusing temperature need-ed. For a very soft hand feel, silicon polyamide© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Interlining, Fusing Machine, and Fusing Quality 15

interlinings are used; and for stability in length,a stitched non-woven is used. Webs with coatingand paper back are used for seam tapes.Fusing with a Fusing machineFusible interlinings are to be selected with care.All fusible interlinings need to be fused to the fabric at a given temperature andpressure for a required time. A fusible interlining has small dots on one surface.These are resin dots. When heated the resin melts and stick to the fabric. De-pending on the usage the number of resin dots differs per square millimeter ofinterlining. Manufacturers conduct tests for every interlining and recommend itssuitability to the type of fabric. In the picture to the right, you see a continuousfusing machine for fusing parts of a collar, cuff, placket, pocket, waistband andother parts of garments. The three important factors to be considered inthe selection of the interlining are pressure, heat,and time. Each quality of interlining requires dif-ferent time, temperature, and pressure based onthe fabric on which it has to be fused. The inter-lining manufacturer suggests these for every typeof interlining. The parts move from one end of themachine, as they travel on the conveyor theyget heated to a set temperature and pressed ata set pressure. On the machine control panel,you can regulate the speed using a speed regu-lator. Similarly temperature can be set as perthe manufacturer guidelines. Pressure can alsobe adjusted as required. The quality of fusing depends on the inter-lining quality. The operator must set the tem-perature, pressure, and time depending on theTypes of fusible interlining Temperature Pressure TimeThermal bondedChemical bonded 120 to 150°C 3 Kg 10 to 12 secondsCircular knit rangeTwill range 140 to 150°C 3 Kg 10 to 12 secondsTricot 120 to 150°C 2.5 to 3 Kg 10 to 15 seconds 120 to 150°C 3 Kg 10 to 12 seconds 120 to 150°C 3 Kg 10 to 12 seconds16 Interlining, Fusing Machine, and Fusing Quality © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

fabric and type of interlining. Some of the common quality tests that must beconducted before using an interlining are: Bond strength - or the sturdiness of the seal between the fusible interlining andthe fabric – is tested after fusing, and after washing or dry cleaning, dependingon the recommended care of the garment. A bond strength test involves: Take 2” x 8” strip of fabric and interlining. At one end of the strip, place apaper in between the fabric and interlining so that it does not fuse. Now fusethe interlining to fabric by passing through the fusing machine. Set the fusingmachine temperature, pressure, and time for the interlining, as recommended. Allow the fused strips to cool; and, using a tensile strength testing machine,place the un-fused ends of the fabric and interlining in the machine’s grips andpull apart. The machine will measure the amount of weight needed to separatethe two fabrics. The weight required to separate varies according to the type ofinterlining and fabric. Most fabrics mustwithstand weight of 1 ½ pounds. Heavierfabrics withstand more weight. Light-weight fabrics withstand less weight. When there is no testing machine, youcan also test the fusing quality. Simplytry to pull the fabric and interlining. Ifthey can be pulled apart easily, the bondstrength is poor. Both by machine and without machine,if the bond strength is good, you will noticethat the resin dots are visible on the fab-ric when it is peeled from the interlining.Otherwise, the surface of the interliningremains uneven to the touch, indicatingthat the resin dots are not transferred. Ifthe resin dots are hard to touch it indi-cates that the temperature, pressure, orboth are not sufficient. This tells that theresin is not transferred to the fabric.© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Interlining, Fusing Machine, and Fusing Quality 17

Shrinkage and StretchDuring the process of fusing or in laundering or dry cleaning thereafter, bothfabric and interlining shrink or stretch, leading to dimensional change in thegarment. If both the materials shrink differently, there will be bubbles on thefabric surface. Shrinkage may not be evident if the fabric surface is unchanged,but the fused parts may not fit together, leading to problems in production. Thismay be more so if the fabric is heavy. However, during wash later on, there willbe a shrinkage leading to discomfort and fit problems. To avoid these problemsmeasure fabric shrinkage alone and shrinkage of the fused part. If the shrinkageis unacceptable, re-fuse with different temperature and pressure settings until itis eliminated or within acceptable limits. Repeat bond strength check once again.Steaming and Strike-back EvaluationOne may also face a problem during steam ironing. While sewing the variousparts of a garment, the fused are subjected to steam ironing at different stages.Each time the steam iron is pressed, a blast of steam hits the fused part and theheat of the iron box may separate the fused interlining from fabric, called de-lamination. It is also possible that the resin dots may be seen on the fused fab-ric surface, called strike-back, causing the fused fabrics to stick to each other. Toavoid these problems in garment production, steam iron the fused parts to checkthe quality of fusing.Multiple InterliningsIn garments like jackets or blazers, different interlinings are used. Each of themhas to be tested separately and collectively for compatibility, bond strength,shrinkage, steaming, and strike back. As all these interlinings are used in thesame garment, but at different places, a completed garment must be tested for allthese features before deciding on the type of interlinings required. Therefore, great care must be taken in evaluating and finalizing interlining. Noother trim affects the garment as much as the interlining. Once fused and sewn,if the interlining is not compatible or is defective, the entire garment is rejected.Nothing can be done about it.18 Interlining, Fusing Machine, and Fusing Quality © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

TRAINEE MODULE 5 FABRICS, CHECKING FABRICS, & THEIR DEFECTS Learning Objectives In this session, the trainee will learn about fabrics, types of defects in a fabric, and how to check them. At the end of the session you will be able to: 1. Identify different types of fabrics 2. Know defects in fabrics 3. Check for defects Key Points 1. Types of fabrics used in garments 2. Common fabric defects 3. Identify and check defects Main Content Our garments are made of different types of fabrics. They are made of cotton fabrics. Woolen fabrics are used to make skirts, coats, and pants. Silk fabrics are used to make shirts, dresses, and sarees. Linen fabric is used to make shirts, pants, and suits. There are many other fabrics made of polyester, nylon, ramie, jute, etc. Fabric Content All fabrics are made of yarns or threads. These threads or yarns are formed by fibers. Some of these fibers are natural and some are made from other materials, like polyester, nylon, etc. Natural fibers are cotton, silk, wool, bamboo, banana, jute, linen, etc. Those fibers made from other materials are polyester, nylon, acrylic, etc.19 © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

Cotton fabrics are soft and easily washable. But take more time to dry. Some ofthem, when dried in the sun, fade in color and some become dull when washed.Cotton fabrics also shrink and become shorter and narrow when they are washed. They absorb sweat easily and are widely used in summer. Cotton fabrics canbe very fine and light in weight or very heavy and thick. They can be coated withmany other materials to make them rain proof and water proof. Cotton fabricsare starched to give them shape and size. There will be many defects in thesefabrics and they have to be carefully checked before cutting the fabrics. Silk fabrics are shiny and soft. They are very fine and delicate. These cannot bewashed, and if they get wet their shine and luster are lost. They lose color andshrink also when washed. Defects in these fabrics have to be checked. These fab-rics are used in dresses and sarees. They are widely used in winter season. Polyester, nylon and acrylic fabrics are manmade fabrics and as such havefew defects. These fabrics can be washed and dried in sun. They do not shrinkand lose color. Most of these fabrics do not absorb sweat and are uncomfortableto wear in summer. Acrylic fabrics are used as a substitute for woolen fabricsbecause they are cheaper. Polyester and nylon fabrics are coated with variousmaterials to make them rain and water proof. Some of these fabrics are speciallytreated to allow perspiration. Such fabrics are used in sportswear. Polyester is20 Fabrics, Checking Fabrics, & their Defects © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

yarns are used in combination with cotton and these are called blends. As blends,they are widely used in uniforms, sportswear, etc. Woolen fabrics are made from the wool takenfrom sheep. These fabrics are dyed and used tomake fabrics for suits, pants, jackets, dresses,and blankets. These fabrics cannot be washed.They lose their shape and become limp whenwashed. Woolen yarns blended with silk,polyester, or nylon is widely used in garmentmaking. Linen is another fabric made of natural plantfiber. It is a light fabric and used to make shirts,suits, and other garments. These fabrics are used generally in summer clothing. These different fabrics are used for sportswear, formal wear, school uniforms,and party wear, and for many other uses. Those used for sportswear are dif-ferent from what you wear to school or office. They are knitted fabrics. For theschool uniforms and jeans, woven fabrics are used.Types of fabricsFor different types of garments, different fabrics are used. Fabrics are of threetypes: Woven, knitted, and non-woven. Woven fabrics are most commonly used to make different garments. Pants,suits, jackets, shirts, dresses, skirts, frocks, sarees, salwar kameez, and manyother garments are made with woven fabrics. Length and width-wise yarns arewoven to form fabric. Hence, they are named woven fabrics. The yarns can be ofall cotton or silk or polyester. Or the length-wise yarns (warp yarns) can be cot-ton and the width-wise yarns (weft yarns) can be polyester or silk or jute. Theseyarns can be interchanged also. Woven fabrics are made in looms that are handoperated or electric motor operated, hence they are called handloom and powerloom. Woven fabrics are flat.© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Fabrics, Checking Fabrics, & their Defects 21

Knitted fabrics are made of a single yarn, unlike wovenfabrics. The yarn is knitted by a knitting machine. Theknitted fabric is a tubular or circular form. For makinggarments, tubes of the required width are knitted or thetube is cut open and sewn on the sides. Non-woven fabrics are made of cotton or polyester orother material fibers that are pressed together with glue orresin so that they remain as a fabric. These fabrics are usedin interlining, or as wadding, or in furniture etc.Fabric InspectionThe fabric that is tested and accepted is received by the gar-ment manufacturer. The fabric checker has to inspect forphysical standards that include width, shade, and defects.The checker will follow standard procedure to inspect andreport the defects. Fabric defects can be in width, weav-ing, yarns, color, and other defects.WidthFabric is received in rolls or bales and is checked 100% forwidth and tabulated. Actual roll or bale width is verifiedwith the packing list. If any variation in width is found,rolls are sorted by width and stacked. Stacking is done bygrouping rolls, with width variations of about + / - 5% to-gether and rolls with variation between 5% - 10% together.Similarly, rolls with no variations together are stacked asa group. Grouping is required to lay rolls of same widthsor with marginal variations together in order to minimizefabric wastage in cutting. Patterns are prepared accordingto the width and any significant variations will result in22 Fabrics, Checking Fabrics, & their Defects © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

lower yield per meter of fabric. That means the fabric consumptions will increaseand there will be shortage to complete the production.ShrinkageFor shade and shrinkage, analysts cut a standard60 centimeters in full width from each roll. Halfwidths of the cuttings are marked and sent forshrinkage test. The shrunk fabrics are received,ironed, and measured for shrinkage. A shrinkagereport is prepared. Rolls that are already sortedby width are now sorted by variable shrinkage.Those rolls which have shrinkage of between 2%-5% are grouped together be-cause the dimensional stability of the finished garments made from these rollsdoes not vary significantly. Group the rolls that have shrinkage between 5% -10% together. Shrinkage groups are made so that fabric rolls with close shrinkag-es are laid together for cutting with a common or single pattern. If the shrinkagevariation is high among the rolls, patterns have to be revised for each shrinkagegroup. Grouping by shrinkage ensures that the finished garments will be consis-tent in their dimensional stability.ShadeThe second halves of the cuttings are usedto prepare shade bands if the garment has nowash. However, if there is garment wash, usethe cuttings that were earlier washed and usedfor shrinkage sorting. The purpose of this sort-ing is to group the cuttings and hence the rollsby shade variation, if any. Based on number ofshades that are likely, the swatches are arrangedin order of their degree of variance. The shadesare then sorted as families – lighter shades with variance of 1-3 degrees, mediumshades of 4-6 degrees and darker shades of 6-8. The families of shades will be cuttogether for production and washed. As the degree of variance is within reason-able acceptability, finished garments can be packed together with the approvalof the customer. This process of sorting by shades is called shade banding andthis will help the customer to place the garments of a family of shades togetherfor display in the store.DefectsThe fabric is then inspected for any weaving or knitting defects. This part of theinspection improves the cutting productivity because the defects are marked.© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Fabrics, Checking Fabrics, & their Defects 23

It also helps in identifying any major defects inthe fabric so that such rolls can be separated.Such rolls must be replaced by the supplier. Incase of a high defect percentage, the customercan be alerted because it may result in shortagein garment order quantity. Such an inspectionsystem also improves the quality standards ofthe manufacture. The procedure followed is de-scribed below.• Select the number of rolls to be inspected. This is based on the total fabric received for garment production of the style. A sample is drawn following a statistical sample selection plan by the quality manager. The sample lists the minimum quantity of fabric for each slot that is sorted, based on width variation, shrinkage, and shade variation in dye or print. The rolls are selected at random. These rolls are then inspected by the fabric checker. In case the number of defects is found to be high, the quantity to be inspected will increase. Fabric inspection of the quantity of fabric is estimated as above. The next stepis to proceed with identifying the fabric rolls to be inspected, which will coverthe total number of required meters or yards. The identified rolls are inspectedper different inspection systems by the fabric checker. There are two systems ofinspection that are commonly used, known as 4-Point and 10-Point, which arebased on the number of points assigned to the size and significance of defect.Among the two, 4-point system is more commonly practiced. The points 1, 2, 3,and 4 are assigned per the size and significance of the defect.How to assign defect PointsUnder this system of inspection, a maximum of 4 penalty points can be assignedto any single defect. Penalty points are assigned to Major defects only. Minordefects are not assigned penalty points. A major defect is defined as any defect24 Fabrics, Checking Fabrics, & their Defects © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

that causes the finished garment to be considered as a second. Major woven fab-ric defects are slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn variation, end out, soiled yarns, andwrong yarn. But, this is not a comprehensive list. Similarly, major dye or printingdefects are: out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear, orshading. If there is a continuous running defect exceeding 9 inches, it must be assigneda penalty point of 4. If there is an additional defect within the same linear yardor meter, consider it as a separate defect and assign it defect points dependingon its severity Any continuous defect such as roll-to-roll shade variation, narrowor irregular width within the roll, creasing, uneven finish, barre’, or skew mustbe assigned 4 points for every yard or meter within a shipment. Each full-widthdefect must be assigned 4 points. Obvious and noticeable defects are assigned 4points in each yard or meter they are noticed, irrespective of their size.Fabric is inspected as given below:1. All major defects and all seams must be flagged2. Minimum length of a roll must not be less than 40 yards3. Any defect that repeats continuously for 3 yards is a running defect and the roll must be rejected, regardless of the final point count.4. Two part pieces must not exceed 10% of the rolls shipped. Minimum length of either part cannot be less than 25 yards.5. All seams must be counted as 4 points per seam. Seams and full width defects are considered as major defects.6. Any piece with more than 6 major defects per 100 yards, including seams or 3 major defects in 50 yards, will be considered as second quality7. The full width cutting from the beginning of the roll must be used to check the shade variation from side to side and end to end.8. Width variation must be checked at the middle and end of the rolls. After the fabric is inspected, the checker must fill the fabric inspection reportwith details of the defects.© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Fabrics, Checking Fabrics, & their Defects 25

Format of the 4 – Point System Inspection Report: The inspection report prepared is circulated to the merchandiser concerned,fabric sourcing department, and production department. Based on the numberof points and acceptability, the fabric is issued for production.Fabric Storage and IssueThe inspected and accepted fabric is stored in the warehouse or stores on a last-come first-serve basis. The rolls are stacked in bins marked by style number andplanned cut date (PCD). Fabric is issued as per the fabric request form receivedfrom the cutting section. The issues are per the stacking by width, color shade, shrinkage, and accep-tance of defects. These must not be mixed up because the patterns are madeaccording to the fabric inspection and shrinkage report.26 Fabrics, Checking Fabrics, & their Defects © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

TRAINEE MODULE 6 SEAMS, STITCHES, & STITCH DEFECTS Learning Objectives In this session, you will learn about seams and stitches. This will help you to trim threads and extra threads of stitches. Some of the stitches are such that if the thread is trimmed, the entire stitch will unravel. So, before you trim, you must know and recognize the most common stitches used in garments. You must also learn the quality of stitches. You will learn: 1. What is a stitch and types of stitches 2. Seams and common seams used in garments 3. Quality of seams Key Points 1. Stitch & seam 2. Types of seams 3. Seam quality Main Content Sewing in the garment industry is to sew parts or components of a garment and join them to make a complete garment. Before the sewing operation is started, the seams, stitches, sewing machine, needles, and the threads will have to be selected, based on the fabric and the type of garment to be made. The quality of the garment depends on their selection. As a finishing checker, you must know what is a stitch, its quality, and on which seam it is used. When you receive garments from the sewing section in finishing, you will be the first person to check the garments. It is only after you checked the garments that they are taken to ironing, folding, and packing.27 © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

SeamsA seam is a joint where two or more components of a garment are united together withthe help of stitches. Good appearance of the seam means neat and smooth jointswithout uneven and missed stitches and damage to the fabric. The appearance ofa seam also depends on the final look required in the garment, like, for example,gathers, puckered look, etc. The performance of the seam is measured based onthe strength, elasticity, comfort, security, and durability.Types of seams:Super imposed seamThis is the most common seam used.When two pieces of fabric are placedone on top of the other and the edge isstitched it is called super imposed seam. There can be many ways to stitch theseseams. They can be stitched with singleneedle lockstitch machine or overlockmachine or chain stitch machine. Morethan two fabrics can be stitched together.After stitching with a lockstitch machine,the edges can be pressed open and theraw edges can be stitched with an over-lock machine. Sometimes the two edgesare covered with a fabric and stitched, asin the case of high-value garments.French SeamsThis seam is formed when the fabricedges are first folded and stitched. Be-cause the raw edge of fabric is folded in-side, this seam appears neat. For good quality seams, a folding device is used. French seams can be stitchedwith single and double needle. This seam is also used for piping.28 Seams, Stitches, & Stitch Defects © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

Piped SeamsThis is a variation of the French seam, where an additional component in theform of a piping is inserted. The piping can be in the same color as the fabric orin a contrasting color.Lapped SeamsA lapped seam is formed by lapping the edges of two pieces of fabric whichare placed one besides the other. The simplest form of this seam cannot be usedpractically because they leave the raw edges open. To overcome this problem,the lap-felled or the welted seams are used.Lapped seam – the top lap needs to be neatened in a decorative manner, other-wise it is not practical to use this seam.Lap felled seam – This is commonly used for the long seams in jeans and shirts.It requires a twin-needle machine and a folding device.Welted seam – In this, the top layer is folded. This involves two steps: first, asuperimposed seam is constructed and then the top layer is folded and stitched.Piped Seams SIMPLE LAP SEAM Lap felled seamLAPPED SEAM Welted seam© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Seams, Stitches, & Stitch Defects 29

Bound Seams: the seams in this class consist of anedge of material that is bound by another, with thepossibility of other components inserted into thebinding. This is the simplest version of bound seams, butuncommon because it leaves raw edges. In this, the raw edges of the binding fabric arefolded. This seam is used to sew the raw edges, suchas the in-seam of trousers, tee-shirts, jackets, etc.Binding seams found on the waistband of skirts withan interlining fused to it.Flat seams: In these seams, the fabric edges do notoverlap. The fabric pieces are placed one besides theother without a gap or with a very slight gap, andjoined across by a stitch that has two needles sew-ing into each fabric and covering threads passing back and forth between theseneedles on both sides of the fabric. Various zigzag stitches can be sewn back andforth between the fabrics, which give a decorative gap between them.Decorative stitch: This class of seams is mostly used for decorative purpose,where one or more rows of stitches are sewn on one or more layers of fabrics. The figure 1 shows a twin-needle stitching with a ribbon lay under the stitches. The figure 2 shows multiple rows of pin tucks stitched; this requires foldingdevice. There are other seams, such as for edge neatening such as the hemmed edge ofa shirt, or on buttonhole placket, trouser or skirt hem, etc.Figure 1 Figure 230 Seams, Stitches, & Stitch Defects © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

Types of StitchesA stitch is the result of one or more strands or loops of threadintra-looping, inter-looping, inter-lacing, or passing in to orthrough the material. Intra-looping is the passing of a loop of thread throughanother loop formed by the same thread. Inter-looping is the passing of a loop of thread throughanother loop formed by a different thread. Inter-lacing is the passing of a thread over or aroundanother thread or loop of another thread. There are over seventy types of stitches listed, of whichabout twenty are used regularly. The selection of stitchesdepends on the performance of the seams, cost, speed, andmachinery available. The various stitches are classified in to6 categories: Of all the stitch types, lockstitch is strong and lasts longer.Chain stitch is not as strong and can easily unravel. Whiletrimming a chain stitch, one has to be careful, otherwise theentire stitch will come off.Class 100 – Chain stitchesThe stitch type in this class is formed from one or more nee-dle threads and are identified by intra-looping. One or moreloops of thread are passed through the fabric and secured byintra-looping, with the succeeding loop or loops after theyare passed through the material. Because each loop is depen-dent on the succeeding loop, the stitches in this class are in-secure and unravel easily. Chain stitch is used on the waistband, side seams, or a shirt inseam of pant.Use these stitches:• Used for temporary stitch until the permanent stitching is done and later removed.• As a decorative stitch• To attach elastic• To attach buttons and cover button holes© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Seams, Stitches, & Stitch Defects 31

LockstitchesIn this type of stitching, two or more loops of threadsinterlace with each other. One set of loops is passedthrough the material and these are secured by anotherset of loops. The first group is called the needle threads andthe second group is the bobbin threads. The interlacing ofthreads in these stitches makes them very secure and difficultto unravel. The bobbin can hold a limited quantity of thread;hence, it calls for frequent replenishment of thread. Lockstitch looks similar atthe top and bottom of fabric. Lockstitch type 301- this is a straightlockstitch with a single needle thread and asingle bobbin thread. This is the most com-mon stitch used in all garments because itis the most durable stitch. Lockstitch type 304- this is a single-throw zigzagstitch and is commonly used for attaching elasticsand laces Lockstitch type 321- this is the three-step zigzagstitch and is used to give a secured but stretchy stitch for theedges of innerwear. This stitch is not suitable for highly stretch-able materials.Multi-thread chain stitches:These stitches are also known as double-locked stitches. In thistype of stitche, two or more groups of threads are required.Loops of one group, called the needle threads, are passedthrough the fabric and are secured by interlacing and inter-loping with loops of another group, called the looper threads.The flatlock machines are used to produce this stitch. Stitch type 401- this is the most simplestitch in this class, it looks like a lock-stitch on the top and has a double chainstitch effect on the reverse side, which isformed by the looper threads. It is usedin knitwear.32 Seams, Stitches, & Stitch Defects © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

Stitch type 406 – this stitch looks like a double needle lock stitch on the top andcovering the fabric between the two rows on the reverse side as shown in thefigure. Here two needle threads and one looper thread is used. Stitch type 407 – this is similar to 406, except that three needle threads are usedhere. Stitch type 411– this is known as the three-step zigzag stitch and looks like adecorative stitch. This is often used to attach elastics. 406 407 411Class 500 – Over edge chain stitchThese stitches are also formed with one or more groups of threads and at leastone group of threads pass around the edge of the fabric. There can be one or twoneedle threads and one or two looper threads, which form a narrow band ofstitching along the edge of the fabric, with threads intersecting at the edge andpreventing the fabric from fraying. Overlock machines produce this stitch. Among the many quality-based parameters of stitches that are important areloose and raveling stitches. These are indications of poor quality sewing. Stitch-ing should be clean and neat and except for when it’s deliberately meant to be incontrast, should sink almost invisibly into the fabric. Usually the thread shouldbe the same shade, or one shade darker, than the cloth, as recommended by thecustomer. As a finishing checker, check for the seams to see if they are on a garment,lay absolutely flat, without puckering and rucking where the fabric pieces jointogether. Watch out for bias-cut garments. Certain seams are more complicatedto sew and therefore only appear on quality garments. One of them is the French seam, where the seam is sewn inside out, then out-side in, enclosing all raw edges. It’s usually seen on women’s dresses and skirts. Another complex seam is the flat fell seam, which is used on jeans. From theoutside, it looks like a double row of stitching, and the raw edges are contained© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Seams, Stitches, & Stitch Defects 33

inside it. On a good shirt, the majority of the seams on the garment are flat-felled,including the armhole, side body, and under sleeve. On cheaper shirts, the seamsare usually just simple seams with serging on the inside. The larger the seam allowance, the better is its durability. Check the seamallowance on the garment, if it is maintained uniformly throughout the garmentor not. Quality customers demand that the seam allowance be bound with a biasbinding or satin tape to prevent fraying. Transparent elastic or stay tap is used inknitwear to reinforce seams and control stretch where a garment stretches, suchas at shoulders and armholes. Hems on quality garments are deeper, and they may be bound with bias bind-ing or another finish in order to keep their shape. They must be finished invis-ibly, with no stitch visible on the outside. The thread used for hemming on theblind stitch machine is usually of fine monofilament yarn. Next is the quality of constructing the facing. A facing is a piece of fabric usedto finish the raw edges of a garment at open areas, such as the neckline, armhole,and front and back plackets or opening. They are must be sufficiently deep toprovide support to the part and provide clean finish. Improper Stitch Balance - 301 Lockstitch Improper Stitch Balance - 401 ChainstitchOpen Seam - Seam Failure - Fabric Puckered Seams - Knits & Stretch wovensExcessive Seam Puckering - Wovens Ragged/Inconsistent Edge – Over edge or Safety stitchRe-stitched Seams/Broken stitches34 Seams, Stitches, & Stitch Defects © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

Some common guidelines to check quality of seams and top stitch:• Check if lockstitch is used on stretch fabrics. It must not be used.• Check whether back rise seams are reinforced with double needle lockstitch or topstitched with edge stitch or double needle• Check whether blind hem felling is secured with no run back of the thread end.• All raw edges must be turned or overlock neatened. Visible raw edges are a defect.• French seams must be securely constructed. The 1st seam sewn does not pull apart with wash and wear.• Thread tension and stitch density must be correct to prevent seam grinning.• Construction seams must be of lockstitch and overlock neaten or mock safety stitch or 4-thread 2 needle overlock or 5-thread safety stitchBartacking is required in the following operations: • on all top corners of patch pockets and at each end of inset pockets • at each end of welt pocket – bartack to the depth of the welt • all belt loops attached to the waist band • at the edge of the fly base, at the base of fly curve to secure fly facing to the garment • at the top of splits• Check if stitches at seam end must be secured by another seam or securely back stitched• Where folded edges are joined, as in sleeve cuffs or neckbands, there must be a row of tack stitching to reinforce.• Overlocking threads must be turned under the seam and secured© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Seams, Stitches, & Stitch Defects 35

Notes36 Seams, Stitches, & Stitch Defects © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

TRAINEE MODULE 7 STAINS & STAIN REMOVAL, THREAD SUCKING MACHINE, & NEEDLE DETECTOR Learning Objectives In this session, you will learn about the various operations in the finishing section, starting with checking for sewing defects and ending with checking for broken needle parts. Your responsibilities as a finishing checker are: 1. Checking for sewing defects 2. Trimming and stain removing 3. Removing loose threads and checking for broken needles Key Points 1. Sewing defects 2. Stain removing operation 3. Thread sucking and metal detection Main Content In the garment industry, the finishing section plays a very important role in maintaining the appear- ance and presentation of a garment. Its quality depends on various factors such as cleanliness; wrinkle free, without any loose threads and with no long threads hanging from the seams. Safety of the customer who wears the garment is also impor- tant.37 © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

Sewing defectsThe sewing section forwards or sends garmentsafter sewing to the finishing section. Here thegarments are received by finishing checkers.One of the important tasks of the checkers is tocheck each garment. Every garment is checkedby you for any defects in sewing: Loose stiches,broken stiches, skip stiches or missing stitches.When you find such garments with any sew-ing defects, you will mark them with a red ar-row sticker and keep them aside. You will sendthese garments to the sewing section and handthem over to the supervisor to get them re-paired and returned.TrimmingEach defect-free garment is then checked forloose threads or protruding threads fromseams. These threads are trimmed close to theseam or fabric. While trimming threads, holdthe garment in hand, hold the seam where the thread hasto be trimmed, and place the trimmer on the thread to betrimmed and cut it gently.Stain RemovingOnce trimmed, check the garments forstains. During the production process, dueto handling, stains may appear on the gar-ment. Some of the common stains foundon post-production garments that have nowash are oil, blood, sweat, pencil and pen,etc. All such stains are removed using vari-ous stain removing agents. Usually mineral oil of turpentine (MOT) or white pet-rol is used to clean stains on garments. An electrical highpressure gun or a stain removing machine is used todirect the liquid MOT at the spot where the stain appears.MOT acts as a solvent and a stain-removing chemicalneeds to be added to it. Acetone added to MOT acts as astain remover for oil marks, pencil, and pen marks Blood38 Stains & Stain Removal, Thread Sucking Machine, & © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Needle Detector

stains due to insects sitting on the garment are removed withchemicals that dissolve proteins. The garment stain removing machine or spotting machineor spotting gun used in the industry is similar to an iron table. But, it has high-pressure spray guns fitted with stain-removing chemicals filled. You have toplace the stained garment on the table, direct the spot gun on the stain, andpress. The chemical is sprayed onto the stain at high pressure. It dissolves thestain. The garments are left to dry.Thread suckingLoose threads and dust and other materials on the gar-ments are removed before they are pressed and ironed. Toremove these you will operate a thread-sucking machine.The garment is pushed inside the cabinet on top of the ma-chine as shown in the picture. There is a vacuum pumpbelow that sucks all the loose threads and dust and collectsthem in a bag below. Each garment has to be placed in thesucking cabinet and removed. The bag is emptied at regu-lar intervals. Once the loose threads are removed from allgarments, they are passed on for ironing.Needle detectionBroken needles sometimes get stuck in the garment whilesewing. These garments may get packed by mistake ifnot checked properly. When the customer wears suchgarments, they may cause injury and the customer willreturn such a garment. Therefore, after the folded gar-ments are packed in the polybag, they are passed througha needle-detection machine. When a garment is placedon the conveyor belt of the machine, it moves through achamber that detects any metal parts, like a needle, andgives an alarm sound and stops. If the garment has anysuch metal pieces, such garments are removed and keptaside. They are then checked thoroughly and if any needle part is there, it is re-moved. The garment is then pressed and packed once again.© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Stains & Stain Removal, Thread Sucking Machine, & 39 Needle Detector

Notes40 Stains & Stain Removal, Thread Sucking Machine, & © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Needle Detector

TRAINEE MODULE 18 IRONING & PRESSING EQUIPMENT & THEIR OPERATION Learning Objectives In this module, you will learn about ironing and industrial ironing equipment. The industrial ironing equipment is different from the domestic iron boxes. Their operations are complex and an ironer has to learn the operations and be trained on them. You will learn: 1. What is ironing 2. The ironing table and presses in the industry 3. The body forms Key Points 1. Ironing 2. Pressing 3. Form finishing Main Content A well-ironed and creased garment attracts your eyes. Pressing or “Ironing” is defined as the method of improving the appearance of fabric surface by remov- ing unwanted wrinkles and giving desired crease lines. What goes into pressing are: a. Heat: Heat makes the fibers of the fabric malleable and most fibers, like cotton, are said to have a “thermal memory,” wherein they retain a shape given to them under a certain heat level and can be changed only when heated again to that temperature.41 © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

b. Water: In the form of liquid water, or as steam, lubricates the fibers and allows them to move against one other.c. Pressure: This allows the fibers to be aligned in a desired direction, When a cloth is “ironed,” the fibers near the surface flatten and wrinkles are straightened.d. Time: Depending on the amount of heat, water, and pressure applied; the composition of the fibers of the fabric; and the thickness of the cloth, the process of ironing requires a certain amount of time to take effect. Increasing any one component can be balanced by a reduction of any of the other three to get the same results.e. Cooling: As the fabric cools, the pressing effect on the fibers is given some permanency. In fact, to get good stand-up finishing to collars, a collar pressing machine has two heads – a hot one at about 1,250ºC and is immediately by putting the collar on a cold head at about minus 100ºC.Ironing equipment can be classed into two categories:a. Hand pressesb. Pressing machines Industrial ironing and pressing is highly specialized. The equipment usedfor ironing is expensive and requires training of the ironers and operators. Theironed and pressed garments are checked and approved before they are packedfor dispatch to customers. Hence, the ironers and pressmen who work in the fin-ishing section are trained in the operation of this equip-ment as well as in ironing. In this session, you will learnabout how to use equipment and on which garmentswhich type of machines can be used. Garments, after checking, trimming, washing, andembroidery, finally land in the ironing section, where theyare pressed and ironed as per the customer’s instructions. In the garment industry, a steam Iron is used andthe ironing time is less than a minute. Different fabricsrequire different heat, pressure, water (steam), cooling,and time settings and this has to be noted. All readymadegarments usually carry a “care label” with instructionsfor ironing and pressing. Garments are pressed and ironed per the requirement,on ironing tables, with steam irons. As an ironer, youmust check the garment for the fabric and trims that may42 Ironing & Pressing Equipment & their Operation © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

be affected by heat, such as prints, sequins, rhinestones, etc. Usually, ironingstarts with the collar, sleeves, back, and the front.Ironing TablesThe ironing tables come in different sizes and shapes.Large and heavy presses are used for men’s suits andjackets. Many of them have forms to suit the shape ofthe various parts, especially fronts and shoulders that arereinforced with thick chest pieces and shoulder pads. Forall other types of garments, vacuum tables with iron box-es are used that work on steam. The table sizes vary from130 x 80 cm to as small as 60 x 40 cm that are suitable fordifferent sizes and shapes of garments. The table is cov-ered with a porous Teflon sheet that permits vacuum tosuck out moisture while giving a semi-hard surface justsufficient for ironing. The vacuum suction of the ironingtable sucks away the moisture in the garment as it is laidout on the table. Vacuum also functions to hold the gar-ment in place while ironing. To operate the vacuum, thereis a small metal strip or pedal extending at the foot of thetable. The ironer will press the pedal against the table andthe vacuum will start functioning. While most of the body parts ironed are by placingthem flat on the table, sleeves and armholes are givenparticular attention in shirts and jackets. Usually dressshirt sleeves should not be pressed flat and crease markshould not appear. For this purpose, ironing tables arefixed with removable bucks. In the case of dress pants for formal wear, the seat ofthe pant must not be creased. It must be ironed flat bothon the front and back. The legs of the pant must be ironedon a special trouser pressing machines.© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Ironing & Pressing Equipment & their Operation 43

For dress suits, the presses used are differentand more specialized. They are heavy body formswhich work with air-pressure or pneumatic andsteam. Garments are placed on the body formand when the machine is operated, steam ironplates that are controlled pneumatically press thesuit or shirt on either side. The body form thenrotates to enable steam pressing on the remain-ing sides. For the collar and cuff, special presses are available thatensure the shape and contours are retained. These presses aredesigned to suit a variety of collar and cuff shapes and, dueto their programmable temperature control features, differentfabrics can be used. The ironing equipment includes body presses manufac-tured specially for use in pressing specific products, such asfor trouser, jeans, and tops. This equipment, also called formfinishers, are versatile and can handle a variety of garments.The hem of the garment is clamped by a clamping device, whichensures flow of air and steam at different volumes and pressures,according to the garment, without stretching the waist band.These advanced form finishers handle sensitive fabrics withoutdeforming the waistband. A tunnel finisher is a machine to remove wrinkles from gar-ments. As all garments are shipped by sea freight from the coun-try of production to the customer overseas, there is every causefor them to get wrinkled due to carton box pack-ing. On receiving, the customer has to unpack,re-iron, and place the garments on a clotheshanger. With the cost of re-ironing and present-ing the garments in the store being enormous,many customers prefer store-ready shipments. Inside the tunnel, the machine processes eachgarment through several stages. First the garment passesthrough a steam chamber to make the fabric moldable.Then wrinkles are removed by a strong hot air flowalongside the garments. Finally, the garment is dried bycooler air before it leaves the tunnel finisher. Tunnel finishers can be grouped into two different clas-sifications, “wide body” or “narrow body.” “Wide body”44 Ironing & Pressing Equipment & their Operation © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

machines are designed for high-production finishing of blended garments, wet-to-dry, damp-to-dry and or dry-to-dry. “Narrow body” machines are designedfor shoulder-to-shoulder processing and are best suited for the dry-to-dry finish-ing of garments. However; they are capable of damp-to-dry finishing at slowerproduction speeds.Industrial Iron BoxesIn the industrial iron box, a tube is connected from a steamgenerator or boiler to the iron box. The steam heats up theiron box. And, using a switch, it can be directed towarda spot on the garment when a wrinkle is seen. The size ofthe base plate varies from a narrow 190 x 60 mm to a verybroad 283 x 170 mm. The weight of the box varies from 1kg to 2.5 kgs. For narrow garments with sharp features,the light-weight narrow iron box is used; while for heavycotton trousers, a heavy iron box with wide base is used. A valve connects the boiler to the iron box, draws outcondensate steam, and ensures only dry steam passesthrough. Wet condensate, if it drops on the garment, formswater marks that cannot be removed and thus make thegarment defective. Fabrics made of microfiber, silk, and pima cotton are verysensitive to heat. To avoid direct contact with the heated iron box base, a Teflonsole plate is used to cover the base. This reduces the heat and thus the garment© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Ironing & Pressing Equipment & their Operation 45

is prevented from getting an iron shoe mark. Such iron marks are ironing defectsand such a garment will be rejected. Most of the iron boxes work on steam alone, while a few work on both elec-tricity and steam. Most of the boilers that are used are wood fired or coal fired,which are more economical to use. To keep the iron boxes and the boiler free of scaling, usually a softener plant isinstalled at the water source from where water is pumped into the boiler. Scal-ing is a major enemy of an iron box, making it useless in a short period of time,forcing frequent de-scaling. The process of ironing needs expertise and understanding of the garment andfabric. While garments must be ironed to remove the wrinkles formed, they arealso pressed to form permanent creases where required, such as in pants andshorts. Shirts are normally ironed without creases.46 Ironing & Pressing Equipment & their Operation © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

TRAINEE MODULE 9 IRONING SHIRT, TROUSERS, JEANS, AND JACKETS Learning Objectives In this session, you will learn about ironing and pressing various garments and the methods to be followed. You will learn: 1. Ironing a shirt 2. Ironing and pressing trousers and jeans 3. Ironing jackets and other garments Key Points 1. Ironing shirts and other garments 2. Techniques of ironing 3. Care to be taken in ironing Main Content There are different types of garments that you need to iron and press. They have different shapes. They are made of many types of fabrics. Each garment also has many other items attached to it, like buttons, zippers, stones, embroidery, print, sequins, or patchwork, etc. Some of these garments are washed so they may become wrinkled. Others, like denim jeans, are washed and are made of heavy fabrics. Some garments, like dresses, are made of delicate fabrics. The common garments that are made in the garment industry are shirts, trou- sers, jackets, tee-shirts, etc. Each of these needs to be ironed and pressed carefully. Pressing and Ironing a Shirt For any garment to be pressed and ironed, first study the garment parts and the customer instructions. The parts of a shirt are two fronts, two sleeves, collar, cuffs, and a back. Ironing the shirt starts with collar.47 © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

CollarAlways start by ironing the shirt collar.  This is the mostvisible part of a shirt because it frames the face, especiallywhen worn with a suit or sport jacket.  To iron the shirtcollar, place with wrong side on top, start ironing from oneend to the other. Release steam before starting, and if anywrinkles appear, press them to the bottom, where they’llbe less visible. Next, flip the shirt over and repeat this pro-cess on the topside of the collar. If the collar has a collarbone, insert in hem after ironing.CuffsTo iron a shirt cuff, first unbutton it (including thesleeve placket button) and lay it out flat.  First ironthe inside of the cuff, and next the outside, mov-ing all wrinkles from uneven fabric to the edges. Carefully iron around the buttons, and even on the backside. Never iron overbuttons because they can leave a mark.  For French cuffs, open them fully andiron as above, but they must not be pressed hard. SleevesUse the sleeve buck on the ironing table. Wear it over thebuck so that the broad shoulder joint is at the broad sideof the buck and the narrow cuff at the tip of the buck. Atthe head of the table is a switch to activate. The vacuumoperates and the sleeve is held in position. Now, turnon the iron box and gently move over the sleeve. Noticethat the round buck allows you to move the iron boxall around the sleeve without lifting and turning it. No crease is formed on thesleeve. Formal shirt sleeves do not have creases.Shirt FrontOnce both sleeves are ironed, lay the front buttonholeplacket on the table. Make sure it lays smooth withoutany waviness. Press the vacuum at the foot of the tableto hold the garment. Press and pass the iron on the placket. Whileyou press the switch on the handle and move the iron box, steamis released from the bottom or front or edges of the iron box. Aftermoving the iron box from the top-to-down of the placket, lift theshirt.48 Ironing Shirt, Trousers, Jeans, and Jackets © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.

Button the shirt front. Lay it on the table neat andclean with no wrinkles. Make sure that there are nowrinkles on the back of the shirt because you willnot iron the back side. In case of back pleat, adjustit halfway because the remaining half is tucked intothe pants. Press the vacuum foot and press and ironon one side of the front from shoulder to the hem inone long move. Start ironing from the head of theshoulder with the broadside of the iron box a halfinch below the shoulder edge. Never iron the shoul-der edge because it will form an ugly crease whenthe shirt is worn by the customer. Do not take theiron from the hem to the top because this will endup in gathering at the shoulder and result in wrin-kles. Repeat the same process of ironing on the otherhalf of the front. Do not let the iron go up to the sideseams of the shirt. No crease must be formed at the sides. When a shirt is worn,it must appear round to complete the curve of the body. Remove the shirt and place it on a hanger. It is now ready for folding andpacking.Pressing and Ironing a PantThe front and back of pants are called the frontrise and back rise and must not have a crease.Therefore pants are ironed with the back riseflat on the table. Spread and place the waist of the pant on theironing table. See that the pockets lay flat with-out any wrinkles. Zip the front fly. Do not button thewelt pockets. Close the waist band either with buttonor hook that is provided. Now press the vacuum foot and press and iron, mov-ing from the waist band to the area below the pocket.First press the iron on one side of the waist and ironand then repeat on the other side of the waist to com-plete the ironing. The iron must move over the pleats and press them downneat and flat. Notice that the there are no iron marks on the pants, particularlynear the edge where the pocket bag ends. The unevenness causes the iron markbecause more pressure is applied there. Lift the pants and place the backside on© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Ironing Shirt, Trousers, Jeans, and Jackets 49