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Introduction to Innovative Textiles An emerging tide of ground-breaking innovations in biodegradable functional fabrics offers the fashion industry a chance to clean up its disastrous environmental record. New technologies are paving a way with efficient and sustainable production, providing us with good quality ecofriendly apparels that acknowledges fast fashion’s environmental impact. Introduction to ‘eco-fabrics’ can make a huge difference in lowering the environmental footprint of a garment. There is a growing demand for change, where the designers are on the lookout for sustainable, recyclable and biodegradable resources, while the eco-minded consumers are favouring the same. Mindful scientists and innovators have been looking for unusual alternatives for fabrics which tend to reduce negative ecological impact. These unconventional material’s potential is just beginning to be explored by the fashion industry. 3
CONTENTS FOOD-BASED FABRICS PLANT-BASED FABRICS PATHOGEN-BASED FABRICS 01. Apple leather /08 01. Bio iridescent sequin /38 01. Algae plastic /64 02. Fungal leather /70 02. Banana fibre /14 02. Cactus leather /44 03. Kelp leather /76 03. Milk protein fibres /20 03. Kapok trees /50 04. Orange silk /26 04. Milkweed fibres /56 05. Pineapple leather /30 4
VEGAN FABRICS 01. Ahimsa silk /84 02. Koba vegan fur /90 5
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Food based byproducts are something which is produced in a biological process in addition to the principle process creating an inevitable result of production processes. These biomaterials are further explored for tissue engineering applications due to their chemical and biological properties, the ability to retain water, controlled biodegradability and biocompatibility. This field of action is applied to the textile industry as an eco-friendly alternative to conventional chemicals that is appropriate for use in apparel. 7
8 Image source: Unsplash
APPLE LEATHER The story of Apple leather started in 2004. Alberto Volcan, an inventor from Italy, was looking for ways to use leftover apple waste from the fruit juice and compote industry in Northern Italy. 9
Manufacturing Process The fabric is created by first taking the recovered apple waste and reducing it to a powder. Once processed, it is sent to a factory located in Florence, where it is combined with polyurethane and coated onto a cotton and polyester canvas. Image source: Frumat Image source: Luxtralondon What makes it sustainable 100% cruelty-free and has minimal impact on the environment. This leather tanning uses far fewer toxic chemicals in its process than in methods used for conventional leather, resulting in less pollution overall. Company making this fibre Frumat Estimated Price Rs 1,500-5,000 per linear metre, depending on the finish 10
An alternate of Image source: Unsplash Leather 11
Traits: Image source: Unsplash // Breathable unlike rest of the vegan leathers //Smooth to the touch //Wide selection of rich colors and texture in color, in contrast with animal leather which uses dyes agents which leads to a leak of color richness over the time. Image source: Unsplash Image source: Unsplash Drawbacks: // Uses Polyurethane //Can look fake and synthetic Image source: Unsplash //Can smell of chemicals or plastic 12
Image source: Unsplash 13
14 Image source: Medium
BANANA FIBRE People have been making fibres out of banana stems since the early 13th century, in Japan. But in the recent years banana fibre has been put to use in manufacturing textile. Cultivated in the Philippines, the development of Bananatex is a collaboration of QWSTION, a Taiwanese yarn specialist and QWSTION’s weaving partner based in Taipei, Taiwan. 15
Manufacturing Process Fibres in banana peels and stems must be separated from the non-usable components through ‘retting’. Once the separated fibres are acquired, they are bunched together and dried. At this stage, the inner and outer fibres are usually kept together since it’s hard to separate them when wet. Dividing into groups once dry, the fibres are separated into groups based on quality. Spinning and weaving the separated fibres are then spun into yarn. The yarn is treated and dyed, and it is woven into garments. Image source: Sustainable Image source: Banatex Fashion Collective What makes it sustainable The chemical composition of banana fibre is cellulose, hemicelluloses, and lignin. Hence making it biodegradable. Its self-sufficiency has made it an important contributor to reforestation of areas once eroded by Palm plantations, whilst enhancing the prosperity of local farmers. Company making this fibre Banantex Estimated Price Rs 600 per metre, approx. depending on the thickness 16
An alternate of Image source: Tumblr Silk, Cotton, Linen & Hemp 17
Traits Image source: StartupFashion //Strong moisture absorption quality //Strong yet lightweight with smaller elongation properties. //Alkali proof //Good receptivity for the dyes //Naturally water-resistant, fire- resistant, tear-resistant. Image source: aaimadewithlove Image source: Selvedge Drawbacks Image source: Mavolu // High level of stiffness compared to cotton, hemp and flax //The untreated bast fibre is quite rough and can only find limited application for textiles. 18
Image source: Reveultime Image source: Milo+Nicki 19
20 Image source: Unsplash
MILK PROTEIN FIBRE Milk Fiber was firstly introduced in 1930 in Italy & America to compete the wool. Making wool made from milk was an idea of the engineer Antonio Ferretti di Gavardo (BS), patented in 1935 under the name of Lanital. It is new generation of innovative Fiber & a kind of synthetic Fiber made of milk casein Fiber through bio-engineering method with biological health which has passed international ecological certification of oeko-tex standard 100. There are also some different brands for the same fiber manufactured from milk casein known as Aralac, Lanatil and Merinova. 21
Manufacturing Process Acid is mixed with milk to extract the casein. Water is then evaporated to form casein crystals. The casein is hydrated to a thick syrup and extruded through spinnerets. The resulting fibre is passed through a hardening bath. The continuous fibre is then cut to the desired length Image source: Ecoworldonline Image source: Ecoworldonline What makes it sustainable As it is having continues graft polymerization technique hence it is totally eco-friendly in nature. It has no formaldehyde is present in the product. Milk fibre is made from milk casein instead of fresh milk.. Milk fibre contains seventeen amino acids & natural anti-bacterial rate is above eighty percent. Hence milk fibre has sanitarian function. Company making this fibre Mi Terro Estimated Price Rs 750 per linear metre 22
An alternate of Image source: Unsplash Wool 23
Traits: Image source: Unsplash //Ph of milk fibre is 6.8 which are same as that of human skin. Hence the products made up from them are more compatible to human skin //These are more comfortable, excellent water transportation & air permeability //Milk fibre has the advantages natural fibre combined with synthetic fibre Image source: Pexels Image source: Unsplash Drawbacks: Image source: Unsplash //Wrinkles easily after washing //Not friendly for machine washing as it is not a very delicate fibre //Low durability. 24
Image source: Unsplash 25
26 Image source: Unsplash
ORANGE FIBRE Enrica Arena and Adriana Santanocito are the Founders of Orange Fiber, an Italian company that innovated this unique fibre in 2013, and now have patented and manufactures sustainable fabrics for the Fashion Industry from c itrus juice b y-product. 27
Manufacturing Process The fiber is made through a process ‘Orange fiber’ innovated, in collaboration with Politecnico di Milano University. In Sicily, the pastazzo (citrus juice by-product) is processed to extract the citrus cellulose, which is then sent to Spain to be spun into yarn. The yarn then returns to Italy, to their fabric producer in Como, where their exclusive fabrics are ready to be used by the fashion brands worldwide. Image source: Orange fiber Image source: Orange fiber What makes it sustainable A marked increase in food processing over the past 50 years has gradually generated an enormous amount of non-edible byproducts and the potential for the senseless discarding and waste of natural resources. This process has the potential to transform the 700,000 tonnes of pastazzo produced annually by the Italian citrus processing industry into high quality fabrics. Company making this fibre Orange Fiber Estimated Price Rs 780 per linear metre 28
An alternate of Image source: Orange fiber Silk 29
30 Image source: Pinatex
PINEAPPLE LEATHER Ananas Anam makes Piñatex®, the innovative textile made from Pineapple leaf fibre. Piñatex® was developed by Dr Carmen Hijosa in 2013 and first presented at the PhD graduate exhibition at the Royal College of Art, London. 31
Manufacturing Process The fibres are extracted from the leaves – 480 leaves per metre of material and the biomass that remains is composted. The waste provides energy to the cultivation of the pineapple leaves. After the collection, the leaves are then kept for decortication. Decorticating machine refines the leaves into the fibrous state for further refinement into the product. Image source: Ananas anam Image source: Ananas anam What makes it sustainable The 100% vegan and sustainable (as it is made from the leaf fibres, a by-product from the pineapple harvest in the Philippines. Extracted from the leaves during the process of decortication. Pineapple leather allows farmers to generate additional income, by sorting out and selling the long leaves which are suitable for the fibre production, instead of burning them or leaving them to rot. Company making this fibre Ananas Anam Estimated Price Rs 3,100-5,100 per linear metre 32
An alternate of Image source: Unsplash Leather 33
Traits: Image source: Pinatex //They are strong //Breathable //Very soft and flexible //Easily printed on //Durable //A non-woven textile made to feel and look like leather Image source: Ananas anam Image source: Luxtralondon Drawbacks: Image source: Ananas anam //The material is not 100% sustainable ethical but a lot more ethical and environmental friendly than the conventional leather. //The pineapple industry generates over 76 million ton of waste. 34
Image source: Ananas anam Image source: Ananas anam Image source: Unsplash 35
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Natural byproducts are made from materials derived from plants, they are usually considered environmentally friendly as natural plant cultivation consumes less energy. The main component of plant fibres is cellulose. These biomaterials take months or years to get the process right which provides us quality, richness later on as the plant itself has many healing properties which are transpired through the fibres by giving you longer shelf life. 37
38 Image source: Dezeen
BIO IRIDESCENT SEQUINS In collaboration with RISE (research institute of Sweden), Designer Elissa Brunato has created the Bio Iridescent Sequin, a shimmering bead made from natural cellulose that is more sustainable than regular plastic sequins. 39
Manufacturing Process A shimmering bead made from natural cellulose that is more sustainable than regular plastic sequins. Instead of using petroleum- based plastic, Brunato has developed a way of making glittering disc- shaped beads from bioplastic based on cellulose extracted from trees. These shimmering sequins are made from 100% plant-based cellulose. Cellulose particularly because it is a fast-renewing resource. there’s no point repeating history and using a metal or a mineral, as these making the object heavy and are precious resources that are not as fast renewing. By rethinking the production process by forming them in moulds to eliminate waste. Making just the sequins and no material off-cuts. the material is structured in a way that the light refracts and we see this iridescent shimmer. Image source: Dezeen Image source: Dezeen What makes it sustainable These are free from harmful chemicals and pollutants as the materials remain vibrant in colour, lightweight and as strong as plastic. It is compostable and non-toxic. Avoiding any additional dying, coating or use of harmful chemicals and rare pigments Company making this fibre RISE(research institute of Sweden) 40
An alternate of Image source: Dezeen Plastic Sequins 41
Traits: Image source: Dezeen Image source: Dezeen //Tangible and wholly sustainable, calling it the “opalescent sequins” //Pointing towards a new future of occasion wear, giving a unique way to develop with science and tech which has potential to reimagine party dresses. //World’s abundant polymer Image source: Dezeen Drawbacks: //Very limited Image source: Dezeen aesthetic possibilities 42
Image source: Dezeen Image source: Unsplash 43
44 Image source: Greenqueen
CACTUS LEATHER Adrián López Velarde and Marte Cázarez debuted their innovative brand Desserto, created by their company Adriano Di Marti, at the International Leather Fair Lineapelle 2019 in Milan. Desserto is the first cactus-based leather on the market, and the material has the potential to make the vegan leather industry much more sustainable. n 45
Manufacturing Process The idea of using such raw material was conceived because this plant does not need any water to grow, mature leaves or new leaves are cut from originally grown from prickly pear cactus plants which are cleaned, mashed and then left out in the sun to dry for three days. Image source: Greenmatters Image source: Greenmatters What makes it sustainable As we know, cacti can survive and flourish in desert conditions, so need of for irrigation system which significantly reduces its use of natural resources. Desserto is made without toxic chemicals PVC or phthalates. Desserto transfers knowledge and technology which gives this plant a higher economic value and higher returns for the farmers. It also prevents deforestation. Company making this fibre Adriano Di Marti, Desserto Estimated Price Rs 1,845 + Shipping 46
An alternate of Image source: Desserto Leather 47
Traits: Image source: Desserto //This leather is the new favorite for luxury at Lineapelle Milan because of its flexibility, softness, touch and colour //A leather that doesn’t prick the planet //Luxurious to touch Image source: Desserto Image source: Desserto Drawbacks: Image source: Desserto //Quality can make vegan leather less durable. //Partially biodegradable 48
Image source: eluxemagazine Image source: eluxemagazine 49
50 Image source: Unsplash
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