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Farther Afield ❮❮ 99 valleys, towering limestone cliffs, lakes, and jungle paths. Adventures into the park often include elephant treks, canoeing, and jeep safaris. Picturesque Cheow Laan Lake, framed by verdant cliffs, is home to floating bamboo-raft houses, and the area is a favorite with photographers and bird-watchers (see pp32–5). Similan Islands coral reef 3 Natai Beach MAP E2 1 Similan Islands One of the world’s premier On the mainland just north of Phuket scuba diving destinations, the Island, Natai is perfect for anyone Similan Islands (see pp30–31) offer seeking an easily accessible hide- underwater landscapes renowned away. A 20-minute drive from the for their staggering colors and airport (closer than some beach marine life. The most popular dive areas), it is totally devoid of jet-skis, sites include East of Eden, Richelieu speedboats, or beach-bed vendors. Rock, and Anita’s Reef, where exotic Accommodation is mainly upscale, seascapes abound. Located in the although there are also budget Andaman Sea, about 31 miles (50 options, too. This is Phuket as it km) from Khao Lak, the Similans are was in years long gone by. best visited as part of an overnight or multiday tour. Non-divers can 4 Phi Phi Viewpoint enjoy snorkeling, boat tours, and MAP M5 visits to uninhabited islands. Enjoy breathtaking views of the 2 Khao Sok National Park sunrise from Ko Phi Phi Don’s Home to exotic wildlife, such highest point (see p101), some 610 ft as the Malaysian tapir, wild boars, (186 m) above sea level. With first and pig-tailed macaque monkeys, light, the island’s dumbbell shape this national park is one of Thailand’s can be seen beyond the treetops, as most pristine virgin rain forests. The well as the dramatic rock formations majestic scenery features deep on the far side of the island. The trip to the summit doesn’t take much time or effort – it’s just 20 minutes or so from Loh Dalum Bay. Limestone pillars in Cheow Laan Lake, Khao Sok National Park

100 ❯❯ Phuket Area by Area Maya Bay’s hideaway location 7 Khao Lak MAP E2 5 Ko Phi Phi Leh MAP F3 Pristine jungles hug Framed on three sides by steep the coastline, while the limestone cliffs, and caressed by clear waters and white- calm crystal blue waters, the breath- sand beaches of Khao takingly picturesque Maya Bay (see Lak offer a natural p51) on Ko Phi Phi Leh is best known paradise for those for its appearance in the Hollywood seeking tranquillity. movie, The Beach. Day tours provide A number of fascinating lunch at Maya Bay; there are no hotels diving and snorkeling on the island, but tour companies offer sites, hidden beaches, sleepaboards just offshore. and upscale resorts populate Khao Lak. ECO CONTROVERSY The Khao Sok Lam Ru National Park While The Beach was being filmed on features beautiful sea cliffs, estuaries, Ko Phi Phi Leh in 1999, environmentalists and mangroves. Treks and long-tail claimed that filmmakers damaged boat trips can be arranged at the Maya Bay by clearing coconut trees park’s visitor center. The 2004 and grass, and altering sand dunes tsunami devastated Khao Lak, in order to make the beach appear but the area has made a strong more attractive. The tsunami in 2004, recovery, and today tourism is however, essentially washed away all flourishing again. signs of human tampering. 8 Ko Panyee 6 Phang Nga Bay MAP F2 Dramatic limestone cliffs jut up from this bay (see pp36–7), Most of this small island consists of providing extraordinary scenery for a massive limestone outcrop that boat cruises, kayak journeys, and rises vertically out of Phang Nga Bay. island tours. To experience the bay The main attraction here is the stilt fully, spend an entire day here, ven- village constructed in the shallow turing beyond the popular tourist waters along the island’s south side. sites such as Ko Phing Kan and Ko The island’s economy today relies Panyee. Kayak tours explore cave increasingly on day-trippers from tunnels that open into fantastic nearby Phuket. Fresh seafood hongs (lagoons). Traditional Chinese restaurants line the shore, and junk boats, long-tail boats, and a mosque towers over the village. speedboats can be hired along Visitors often visit Ko Panyee and Phuket’s east coast piers, as well Ko Phing Kan combined as part as from Chalong and Rawai Beach. of a packaged tour.

Farther Afield ❮❮ 101 9 Ko Phi Phi Don DAY TRIP TO KO PHI PHI MAP M5 Once populated by fishermen, and Monkey Beach Ko Phi Phi Don later home to vast coconut planta- Rassada Port Loh Dalum Beach tions, this beautiful island southeast (25 miles) 40 km Tonsai Beach of Phuket is now a thriving tourist destination. With colorful bays framed Viking Cave by cliffs and turquoise waters, Ko Phi Phi Don possesses physical beauty Ko Phi Phi Leh but also has a thriving nightlife and many convenience stores. Although Maya Bay the 2004 tsunami destroyed much of Ko Phi Phi Don, it has now been MORNING almost entirely rebuilt. Set your alarm clock for early in Ko Phi Phi Don’s main street the morning, and catch the boat that leaves Rassada Port on 0 King Cruiser Wreck Dive Phuket’s east coast at 8:30am. MAP F3 Choose a tour company that On May 4, 1997, a ferry on a trip from arranges pickups from your Phuket to Ko Phi Phi collided with a hotel. Onboard the passenger reef pinnacle and sank. The crew ferry to Ko Phi Phi, you can and passengers were all rescued. breakfast on coffee, sandwiches, Today the sunken cruiser remains a and fresh fruit on the open-air popular and relatively uncomplicated roof deck or in an air-conditioned dive site, reachable with standard cabin. After dropping off some scuba gear. The ship features large travelers at Ko Phi Phi Don, the openings that offer easy access to boat continues to the nearby Ko the boat’s interior (see p36). Phi Phi Leh and the world- famous Maya Bay. Renowned for Rugged Ko Panyee island its gorgeous beaches, emerald waters, and towering cliffs, the bay is very popular with visitors. You can go snorkeling here before visiting other beautiful bays. Visit Viking Cave (see p102), where swifts build “saliva nests,” used for making the delicacy known as bird’s nest soup. For lunch, the boat returns to Ko Phi Phi Don, where a Thai and international cuisine buffet awaits. AFTERNOON After lunch, relax on the famous twin bays of Tonsai and Loh Dalum. These beaches have sun beds with umbrellas, while the comfortably warm blue waters remain shallow even quite a long way from the shore. You can also visit Monkey Beach (see p102), home to many of these curious creatures. It also offers good snorkeling and opportunities to see colorful fish and coral. Dine at your hotel – to get back in time, take the ferry on its return to Phuket around 4:45pm. See map on p98

102 ❯❯ Phuket Area by Area The Best of the Rest 1 Ko Yao Noi 6 Camping on the MAP F3 Beach at Ko Similan Popular for its eco-friendly homestay programs, Ko Yao Noi remains an MAP D2 idyllic and rustic destination in Phang Nga Bay. Visitors appreciate its quiet The tent campgrounds on Ko Similan beaches, slow-paced lifestyle, pictur- allow visitors to spend a night on the esque hiking trails, and kayaking. beach, listening to the waves and watching the sky ablaze with stars. 2 Fire Shows, Ko Phi Phi MAP F3 7 Ko Jum and Ko Si Boya Flaming staffs and twirling fiery MAP F3 orbs create a tribal feel during the nightly fire shows on the beach on This adjacent pair of secluded islands, Ko Phi Phi Don. boasting great beaches, sea caves, and snorkeling, is reached from the Ko Phi Phi islands by speedboat in an hour. Once home only to sea gypsies, they have very little tourist infrastructure beyond guesthouses – and therein lies the attraction. 8 Loh Dalum Beach MAP M6 This splendid tropical beach on Ko Phi Phi Don features limestone cliffs encircling a white-sand beach. Fire show performer, Ko Phi Phi 9 Nightlife on Ko Phi Phi MAP F3 3 Ko Hae (Coral Island) Many people visit Ko Phi Phi for the MAP J6 natural beauty of the islands. Another Nicknamed for the impressive coral major draw is Ko Phi Phi Don’s reef surrounding the island, this day- legendary nightlife, which includes trip destination off Phuket’s east everything from cocktail buckets coast has two pristine beaches. and beach bars to fire dancing. 4 Surin Islands National 0 Monkey Beach Marine Park MAP L5 While some come to Ko Phi Phi MAP E2 Don to take photographs of Most easily accessed from Khao the pesky monkeys on the Lak, this chain of islands spans beach, others come nearly 58 sq miles (150 sq km) of for the snorkeling underwater area. Pristine under opportunities at water reefs make this a popular the fabulous reef destination for divers. located offshore. 5 Viking Cave Monkeys on MAP F4 the beach This cave, at Ko Phi Phi Leh, has ancient carvings resembling Viking- style vessels. These petroglyphs confirm the legends of Viking boats visiting the Andaman coast.

Farther Afield ❮❮ 103 Places to Eat on Ko Phi Phi PRICE CATEGORIES 6 Cosmic For a three-course meal for two with half MAP M6 • Tonsai • B a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes, and extra charges. Delicious pizzas from a wood­fired oven, homemade pastas, and Thai B under B500 BB B500–1,000 food attract hungry hordes to this BBB over B1,000 popular restaurant. 1 Pee Pee Bakery MAP L6 • Tonsai Village • Open 7am–5pm daily • B This popular breakfast spot serves fresh doughnuts, pastries, and coffee, as well as decent Thai and Western food. 2 Blue Lagune Characterful interior of Cosmic MAP M5 • Ao Nang • 098 345 4514 • Open 11am–10pm daily • B 7 Pum Restaurant and Cooking School Peaceful Ao Nang on the island’s east coast is home to this gem. MAP M6 • Tonsai • 081 521 8904 • Open It has an unassuming exterior, but 11am–9pm daily (classes from 1:30pm) inside you’ll find great Thai food, • www.pumthaifoodchain.com • B friendly service, and reasonably Not only can you eat delicious Thai priced seafood. food here, but you can also learn how to make it in the cookery school. 3 Unni’s Restaurant MAP M6 • Tonsai • 081 979 8 Papaya 2865 • Open 8am–midnight daily • B MAP M6 • Tonsai • 091 157 2007 • Open 11am–2pm daily • B An informal but comfortable place, Run by a former Muay Thai boxer, this Unni has Western specialties that popular place serves mouthwatering include great burgers, Mexican food curries, somtam (spicy papaya salad), and Greek salads. It’s a popular spot and pad thai (stir­fried rice noodles). for a hearty breakfast. 9 Song’s Pad Thai 4 Carpe Diem MAP M6 • Tonsai • 084 846 MAP M6 • Eastern Tonsai 3921• Open noon–11pm daily • B • Open 8–2am daily • BB Customers’ compliments are written on note pads and affixed to the walls Located at Phi Phi Village Resort, of this popular spot for pad thai. this beachside eatery serves Thai and Western favorites. At night, 0 Le Grand Bleu Carpe Diem goes into party mode MAP M6 • Tonsai • 081 979 with cocktail buckets and fire shows. 9739 • Open 6:30–11pm daily • BB Serving excellent French cuisine and 5 Jasmine Restaurant with a decent wine list, this upscale MAP L5 • Laem Tong Beach restaurant has an elegant ambience • 081 894 1246 • Open 10am–10pm that receives high praise. daily • B Visit the quiet northern tip of the island for the charmingly unpreten­ tious Jasmine. It’s not fancy cooking, but the Thai and Italian food served here is delicious. See map on p98

Streetsmart Beautifully restored Sino-Portuguese shop house in old Phuket Town

Getting To and 106 Around Phuket 108 112 Practical Information 118 Places to Stay 124 General Index 126 Acknowledgments 128 Phrase Book Selected Sight Index

106 ❯❯ Streetsmart Getting To and Around Phuket Arriving by Air Arriving by Road The Airport Authority of Thailand (AOT) has a limo Phuket International The short Sarasin Bridge service, which operates Airport (HKT) receives links Phuket island with from the airport at a fixed daily direct flights from the mainland. There are rate. Grab Taxi has a Australia, North America, frequent buses to all major convenient app. A govern- Europe, and throughout towns in Thailand. Buses ment crackdown on Asia. International big- between Bangkok and illegal taxis has made the name and budget airlines Phuket take around 12 situation better, but it’s still as well as charter flights hours. Buses coming from important to avoid press- compete with the national the north circumvent ure from drivers – don’t carrier, Thai Airways, so Bangkok (the journey from be rushed into a cab, and there is quite a choice. An Chiang Mai takes 20 hours). make sure that the fare is even greater number of Reclining “VIP” seats on clearly understood. If you flights arrive at Phuket buses offer you the most meet a driver you like, get from destinations within comfortable ride. Minivans their cell phone number Thailand, including Surat also run between Phuket and call them when you Thani, Bangkok, Chiang and other cities in Thailand, need a lift. Mai, Ko Samui, Utapao but the bus is preferable (Pattaya), Udorn Thani, for safety and comfort. Getting Around by Songthaew and Hat Yai. Airlines Long distance buses include Air Asia, Nok Air, arrive at Phuket Bus and Bangkok Airways. Terminal 2, located 3 An inexpensive way of The flight from Bangkok miles (5 km) north of traveling between towns, town. From here there are the songthaew (literally to Phuket takes only about 90 minutes. connections by various “two rows”) has a row of Phuket International modes of transport to center-facing benches Airport is located in the every part of the island. running down each side northern part of the The closest train station of a pickup truck. Rides island, about 30 minutes’ to Phuket is in Hat Yai, start from about B20 per drive from Phuket Town, an 8-hour bus ride or a person for short distances. or an hour from the major 30-minute flight away Journeys from Phuket southern beaches. The from Phuket. Town to various beaches mainland beaches in When considering a bus cost about B50–100 per Phang Nga province north trip, compare prices with person. They can also of Phuket, such as Khao the budget airlines – be chartered to any Lak, are even closer. depending on the season, destination, and will wait the bus is not always the to take you back. Arriving by Sea best value, although it is Getting Around certainly more scenic. by Minivan Passenger ferries, water taxis, speedboats, and Getting Around These are similar to a private charters arrive by Taxi songthaew, but they are not at the Rassada Port from Ko Phi Phi, Krabi, Trang, Metered taxis are easy to open air, ply more fixed Ko Lanta, and Ko Lipe. find at the airport, but else- routes (such as the Phuket There is also an inter- where they are few and far Bus Terminal to all the national ferry to/from between, so it is essential beaches), don’t stop for Langkawi Island in to negotiate a fare in passengers to get off and Malaysia, with connec- advance. Near major taxi on as frequently as a tions to Penang. Cruise stations, signboards will songthaew, and cannot be liners also call in at display a list of the maxi- chartered. The routes and Phuket. Rassada Port is mum fares to a range of stops are not always clear, just a ten-minute taxi ride destinations, but still verify but your hotel staff can away from Phuket Town. the fare with the driver. advise you.

Getting To and Around Phuket ❮❮ 107 Getting Around airport, in Phuket Town, DIRECTORY by Tuk-Tuk and at the beaches. Avoid ARRIVING BY AIR streetside operations. Air Asia § 07632 8601 Unlike in Bangkok, where Valid comprehensive ∑ airasia.com the tuk-tuk is ubiquitous, insurance and seat belts Bangkok Airways 158/2–3 Yaowarat Road, these familiar three- are mandatory, and drink- Phuket Town § 07622 5033–5 wheeled vehicles are no driving laws are enforced. ∑ bangkokair.com longer used on Phuket. You can also hire a car Nok Air § 07635 1464 However, small red trucks with a driver. ∑ nokair.com with open sides, almost Phuket International like a miniature songthaew Boat Trips Airport § E07632 7230–7 are often referred to as ∑ phuketairportthai. com tuk-tuks. As they tend to Long-tail boats can be Thai Airways be not much cheaper chartered along the east 78 Ranong Road, Phuket Town § 07636 0400 than a taxi, and drivers coast to visit the islands ∑ thaiairways.com may take you to tourist in Phang Nga Bay, while ARRIVING BY SEA traps belonging to friends, speedboats depart from Rassada Port Moo 1, Tambon Rassada, it’s better to avoid them. Rassada Port. Speedboats Muang § 080 535 1113 and long-tails boats can ∑ phuketferry.com Getting Around by also be found on southern ARRIVING BY ROAD Motorbike Taxis and west-coast beaches. The long-tail boat drivers Phuket Bus Terminal 2 Thepkrasattri Road, A fast and easy way to usually post their rates on Ratsada, Muang § 07637 3193 cover short distances is signboards, but these are GETTING AROUND the motorbike taxi; these usually negotiable. The BY TAXI are easily distinguished cost to charter should be AOT ∑ airportthai.co.th by their drivers’ brightly roughly B500 per hour. Grab Taxi colored vests. The taxis ∑ grab.com/th congregate in the island’s Getting Around GETTING AROUND most densely populated by Motorbike BY CAR areas, such as Phuket and Bicycle Town and Patong. The Avis Phuket Airport cost per person starts at Motorbiking is a cost- § 089 969 8674 ∑ avis.com around B20, but negotiate effective way of seeing Budget a price beforehand. Wear Phuket and allows you to Phuket Airport § 07620 5396 the helmet that the driver travel as you please. ∑ budget.co.th is required by law to Rentals start at around Pure Car Rent Phuket Airport provide. Note that all B200 per day for an auto- § 07621 1002 ∑ purecarrent.com public transport between matic bike. Be cautious Phuket Town and the while riding a motorcycle beaches ends in the early here – always wear a evening, so unless you helmet and practice have your own wheels it’s defensive riding, since an expensive trip back. roads are often winding, traffic signage unreliable, Getting Around and local driving skills by Car atrocious. Give other vehicles a wide berth and If you plan to travel widely expect the unexpected. on Phuket, you might If you have never ridden want to consider renting a motorbike before, a car. Rates start around don’t start here. B1,500 per day in peak Phuket is mountainous, season, but are cheaper but some areas, such as in low season. Reputable the western beaches, are agencies, such as Avis, ideal for easy cycling. Budget, and Pure Car Bicycles can be rented for Rent, are located at the about B100 per day.

108 ❯❯ Streetsmart Practical Information Passports and Visas the US Department of crowded areas such as State, and the Australian street markets, and snatch All travelers to Thailand Department of Foreign thieves on motorcycles must possess a passport Affairs and Trade. will grab a shoulder bag valid for six months from or purse – a day pack the date of entry. Many Travel Insurance carried against your chest passport holders are is the most secure option. given tourist visa exemp­ Comprehensive travel Keep expensive smart­ tions for no cost, valid insurance is essential. phones safely out of sight. for 15 days, and most Medical care in Thailand Women should not walk Western visitors are given is generally inexpensive, alone at night or on a 30­day tourist visa if but insurance will cover isolated beaches, and arriving by air. For longer any unexpectedly large topless sunbathing is not visits, apply at the nearest claims. Keep receipts and advised. Jet­ski operators Thai embassy for a tourist documents to file with the are known to discover visa, which must be used insurer when you’re home. “damages” and insist that within three months of you pay, and the seedier issue. Non­immigrant Health sex bars are notorious for inflating checks. If you 90­day visas are available if there is a good reason Thailand has excellent, have a problem, call the for an extended stay. For affordable healthcare, and Tourist Police Hotline. a fee, 30­day visas can be is a popular medical tour­ extended by 10 days, and ism destination. Bangkok Currency 60­day visas by 30 days at Hospital Phuket and the and Banking the Phuket Immigration Phuket International Office. If you overstay your Hospital are the best for Thailand’s currency is the visa, there is a B500 fine serious issues. For minor baht (B), divided into 100 per day. These regulations problems, local clinics are satang. There are B1, B2, are subject to change, so also hygienic and reliable, B5, and B10 coins; notes check the Thai Ministry of and staff generally speak are available for B20 Foreign Affairs website. the required English. (green), B50 (blue), B100 Many countries, including Pharmacies are usually (red), B500 (purple), and Australia, the UK, and the well stocked, and pres­ B1,000 (brown). US have consular repre­ criptions are not needed Most banks are open sentation in the country. for antibiotics. Dental care 8:30am–3:30pm Monday– is also good and inexpen­ Friday, but branches in Customs and sive. No vaccinations are department stores or air­ Immigration required for entering the ports often stay open later country. While malaria is and on weekends. ATMs Travelers may bring in up not present in Phuket, are found outside bank to 200 cigarettes or 8 oz/ dengue fever is, so do use branches, department 250 g of tobacco and a mosquito repellent. STDs stores, and mini­marts liter of alcohol. Many are also a problem, and (although not on the goods purchased within protection is essential. smaller islands). ATMs Thailand qualify for a VAT offer an English­language refund. Look for shops Personal Security option and accept major with a “VAT Refund For credit and debit cards, but Tourists” sign. Crimes against visitors do a service charge will be take place in Phuket but applied. Cash withdrawal Travel Safety Advice you can reduce your risk. against credit cards can ATMs mean there’s no also be done in banks if Get up­to­date travel need to carry lots of cash, the ATM won’t accept your safety information from and you should keep your card. Western Union and the UK Foreign and cards in your hotel room Moneygram offer cash Commonwealth Office, safe. Pickpockets favor transfers from abroad,

Practical Information ❮❮ 109 but charge high fees. calls, but roaming charges TV, Radio, and Visa and MasterCard can be high. Alternatively, Newspapers credit and debit cards you can buy a local SIM are accepted by all major card in any store selling Most hotel room TVs offer banks, department stores cell phones. Mobile data CNN or the BBC. Thai TV (which can apply a hefty speeds are good, and stations broadcast local charge), travel agents, Wi­Fi is available in hotels and international news, hotels, and many restau­ and restaurants, although while many hotels provide rants. Diners Club and speeds may not be high. weather forecasts, news American Express are of upcoming events, and not widely accepted. Postal Services local features on their in­house programming. Telephone and Post office hours are Phuket FM Radio is the Internet normally 8:30am–4:30pm island’s English­language Monday–Friday and 9am– radio station, with local Thailand’s country code noon on Saturday. Letters news, popular music, and is 066. When calling from to or from Europe or the weather updates. It also abroad, omit the first 0 in US usually take a week or streams live online. the region code. Within longer to arrive. Post The English­language Thailand there is no need offices also offer packing newspaper, Phuket for the country code, but services. For important Gazette, has a good web­ you must dial the first 0 in documents, use the site with news and events. the region code before the Express Mail Service The weekly print version rest of the number. (EMS) or register the letter is easy to find, as is the If you own a GSM cell for an extra fee. Courier Bangkok Post. Foreign phone and international companies such as Fedex newspapers are available roaming is activated, it is and DHL are reliable, but in Phuket, but they are easy to make and receive also expensive. not always current. DIRECTORY TRAVEL SAFETY ADVICE CURRENCY AND Australian Department BANKING PASSPORTS of Foreign Affairs AND VISAS and Trade Moneygram ∑ dfat.gov.au ∑ moneygram.com Australian Consulate- ∑ smartraveller.gov.au General, Phuket UK Foreign and Western Union MAP K2 • 77/77 Commonwealth Office ∑ westernunion.com Chalermprakiat Rama 9 ∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice Road § 0763 17700 US Department of State POSTAL SERVICES ∑ phuket.consulate. ∑ travel.state.gov gov.au DHL HEALTH ∑ dhl.com Immigration Office Bangkok Hospital Phuket MAP Q6 • 482 Phuket MAP K2 • Soi Hongyok Utis, Express Mail Service Road, Phuket Town Phuket Town § 07625 4425 (EMS) ∑ phuketimmigration. ∑ phukethospital.com ∑ ems.post go.th Phuket International Hospital Fedex Thai Ministry of MAP K2 • 44 Chalermprakiat ∑ fedex.com Foreign Affairs Ror 9 Road § 07624 9400 ∑ mfa.go.th ∑ phuketinternational TV, RADIO, AND hospital.com NEWSPAPERS UK Embassy, Bangkok 14 Wireless Road PERSONAL SECURITY Bangkok Post § 07661 5862 (honorary Tourist Police Hotline ∑ bangkokpost.com consulate, Phuket) § 1155 ∑ ukinthailand.fco. Phuket FM Radio gov.uk 91.5–92.75FM ∑ phuketfmradio.com US Embassy, Bangkok 95 Wireless Road Phuket Gazette ∑ th.usembassy.gov ∑ phuketgazette.net

110 ❯❯ Streetsmart Opening Hours from June to October website with useful temperatures are milder. information on planning Stores generally open at Even in September and trips, including reserving 10am and close at 9pm or October, when rainfall is park accommodations. 10pm. Government offices at its heaviest, Phuket still Several commercial are open 8:30am–4:30pm, gets plenty of sunshine, websites provide up-to- but many close for lunch. but this is considered low date reviews of attractions Tourist attractions tend to season so hotel rates fall. in Phuket. One of the best open 9am–5pm, unless Loose, breathable of these, Phuket.com, is a an evening program is on clothing is best, and mine of information about offer. Banks usually work layering a long-sleeve top the island’s beaches, res- 8:30am–3:30pm, but over a T-shirt is ideal, taurants, and nightlife. For mini-branches offering since it also offers good more candid and personal money exchange are open sun protection. views, Jamie’s Phuket later. Post offices work Blog and Phuket 101 are 8:30am–4:30pm Monday– Travelers with both written by long-term Friday and 9am–noon on Disabilities resident expats. Saturday. On public holi- days government offices, Thailand is improving Trips and Tours banks, and post offices wheelchair accessibility, are closed, but most with many hotels and Both scuba diving and stores remain open. department stores provid- snorkeling are popular on ing ramps and elevators. Phuket. Scuba Cat Diving Time Difference Phuket’s sidewalks, how- offers day excursions and ever, are not wheelchair- live-aboard boats visiting Thailand is three hours friendly. What the island popular dive sites, such behind Australian Eastern lacks in infrastructure for as the Similan Islands. Standard Time, seven the disabled is made up Cycling trips tour some hours ahead of GMT, by the helpful nature of of Phuket’s loveliest back and 11 hours ahead of US the people. Specialized roads, and are a great Eastern Standard Time. tour agencies cater to way to experience local Daylight saving time is those with specific needs. life. Amazing Bike Tours not followed here. Accessible Thailand can Thailand (see p55) offer provide more information. trips to Khao Lak and Electrical Appliances Khao Sok National Park. Sources of Sailing enthusiasts Electricity in Thailand is Information come here for the annual Bay Regatta and King’s 220 volts 50 Hz AC. Wall sockets are of the two-pin The Tourism Authority Cup Regatta, but Phuket variety, and many are of Thailand has a good is a year-round magnet designed for US-style flat office in Phuket Town, for visitors who want to prongs as well as Asian- with maps, brochures, explore this lovely region style round prongs. Irish, and staff who can answer from the water. Charter Australasian, and British specific queries. Their companies and yacht devices will need a plug website offers detailed clubs such as Phuket Sail adaptor; North American information on destina- Tours offer visitors day devices will need both an tions and events through- trips and overnight tours. adaptor and a converter. out Thailand. You could also explore the Both can be readily pur- Visitor centers at Khao lagoons of Phang Nga chased on Phuket. Phra Thaeo Royal Forest Bay by kayak. John Gray’s and Wildlife Reserve (see Sea Canoe (see p37) runs Weather pp20–21), Sirinat National trips to aquatic grottoes, Park (see pp22–3), and and their overnight trips Winter temperatures Khao Sok National Park include camping out on peak at 86° F (30° C), (see pp32–5) offer maps, an uninhabited island. rising as high as 98° F guides, and other useful Other tours explore the (37° C) in April and May. services. The Department mangrove forests along During the rainy season of National Parks has a Phuket’s coasts.

Practical Information ❮❮ 111 Learning to cook Thai made with fish sauce. intended travel dates. food is a great skill to take However, vegetarian Airbnb is also very useful, home after your holiday, food is usually available especially if you prefer and cooking schools on request. self­catering. It offers abound on the island. The More expensive places everything from villas to Blue Elephant Cooking add a service charge of 10 rooms in homes. Note School begins with a visit per cent, while some add that some of the listings to the market, followed by 7 per cent for VAT as well. are in fact public hotels. If preparing, cooking, and If no charges are added, this is the case, check for eating your creations. 10 per cent is plenty. the best price offered on Thais love children, so other booking websites. Where to Eat don’t be surprised if the DIRECTORY waitress wants to feed There’s a wide choice of your toddler. Kid’s seats TRAVELERS WITH food on offer in Phuket, are available in most DISABILITIES both in terms of price and restaurants, and some type. You can enjoy every­ have children’s menus. Accessible Thailand thing from authentic Thai ∑ accessiblethailand.com and fusion food to classic Where to Stay SOURCES OF INFORMATION French, Italian, and Department of National Parks Indian. Thai street food In Phuket, the variety of ∑ park.dnp.go.th Jamie’s Phuket Blog enjoys a reputation as one accommodations range ∑ jamiesphuket.com Phuket 101 of the most delicious in from privately­rented ∑ phuket101.net the world. It’s spicy, sour, villas of incredible luxury tangy, and sweet, and to dorm rooms. Patong’s often prepared in just a simple hostels suit its few minutes. To top it all, nightlife­lovers, while the it is incredibly cheap and Cherngtalay area is for very hygienic. Eat where 5­star resorts. Kata offers Phuket.com ∑ phuket.com you see locals eating. the mid­priced beach Another option to dine option; the far north is for Tourism Authority in is the food courts in nature­seekers. It’s even of Thailand shopping malls. Individual possible to stay in a tent MAP P5 • 191 Thalang vendors (who often have on Mai Khao beach in the Road, Phuket Town their own restaurants Sirinat National Park. § 07621 1036 elsewhere) offer their Staying inland is cheaper ∑ tourismthailand.org specialties, and you can and quieter, but you need TRIPS AND TOURS choose selections from your own transportation Blue Elephant different stalls. Payment to reach the beach. Cooking School is usually by coupon, § 07635 4355 bought at a central kiosk. Although Phuket can be ∑ blueelephant visited year­round, prices cookingschool.com Thai food is best shared rise during Christmas and Phuket Sail Tours by two or more people, New Year. The high tourist § 087 897 0492 with each person getting season, when prices are ∑ phuketsailtours.com his or her own plate of higher and rooms should Scuba Cat Diving rice. This allows diners be reserved in advance, § 07629 3120 to sample many different is between November ∑ scubacat.com flavors and textures. Thai and May. During the low salads and soups are season between June and WHERE TO STAY usually eaten along with October you should ask main dishes, a bite of one, about reduced tariffs at Agoda then a bite of the other. hotels. Many post their ∑ agoda.com Many Thai restaurants rates on their websites. Airbnb in the West tend to high­ Accommodation booking ∑ airbnb.com light vegetarian options, websites such as Agoda Booking.com but dishes in Thailand and Booking.com are the ∑ booking.com generally include some best way to survey what’s sort of meat and are available during your

112 ❯❯ Streetsmart Places to Stay PRICE CATEGORIES the year round. For the For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if ultimate in romance, book included), taxes, and extra charges. a private dinner for two by a candlelit waterfall. B under B3,000 BB B3,000–6,000 BBB over B6,000 Six Senses Yao Noi Luxury Hotels Amanpuri MAP F3 • 56 Moo 5, Ko Dusit Thani MAP A6 • Pansea Beach Yao Noi • 07641 8500 Laguna Phuket • 07632 4333 • www. • www.sixsenses.com amanresorts.com • BBB • BBB MAP B6 • 390/1 Moo 1, Graceful, traditional Thai Located on a picturesque Srisoonthorn Road, architecture harmonizes island in Phang Nga Bay, Cherngtalay • 07636 with the magnificent this luxury hideaway 2999 • www.dusit.com tropical surroundings features lush tropical • BB at this luxurious resort. gardens. Each of the Located in the Laguna Villas come in Thai-style resorts’s 54 sumptuous Phuket Resort complex, pavilions, pool pavilions, villas has its own pool. this hotel is set in tropical and villa homes. Located The resort also offers gardens fronting onto the on the exclusive Pansea a range of excursions lovely Bang Tao Beach. Beach, Amanpuri has five and activities. It offers its guests access top-rated restaurants, to numerous Laguna including the French- Sri Panwa facilities, including an Japanese Naoki, which is 18-hole golf course. open November to April. MAP K5 • 31/17 Moo 8, Sakdidej Road • 07637 JW Marriott Phuket Anantara Mai Khao 1000–3 • www.sripanwa. Resort & Spa Phuket Villas com • BBB With breathtaking views MAP B2 • 231 Moo 3, MAP B2 • 888 Moo 3, Mai from atop Panwa Cape, Mai Khao Beach • 07633 Khao Beach • 07633 6100 on the southeast coast of 8000 • www.marriott. • www.phuket.anantara. Phuket, Sri Panwa’s villas com • BB com • BBB are set amid lush tropical Rated as one of Asia’s top High levels of privacy surroundings. They are luxury resorts, the Phuket and comfort await at designed in a contem- Marriott was among the these private villas. porary tropical style and first high-end properties Rooms feature sliding many of the rooms feature to be developed along the glass doors that open 360-degree views. island’s northwest coast. directly onto your own The guest rooms feature private swimming pool, The Surin Phuket wooden floors, silks, and while tall fences and plush bedding. greenery guarantee MAP A6 • 118 Moo 3, maximum seclusion. Pansea Beach • 07662 Sala Phuket Resort 1580 • www.thesurin & Spa The Sarojin phuket.com • BBB This luxury resort boasts MAP B2 • M333 Moo 3, MAP F2 • 60 Moo 2 108 well-designed suites Mai Khao Beach • 07633 Kukkak, Takuapa, Phang and cottages scattered 8888 • www.salaresorts. Nga • 076 4279 004 around the beach, pool, com • BB • www.sarojin.com • BBB and coconut groves. The This ultrastylish boutique Developed in an Asian cottages have handcrafted resort on Mai Khao Beach design style, this luxury teakwood floors, private is set in gorgeous natural resort boasts 56 guest verandas, and secluded surroundings with five- residences. Sheltered by sun decks. Located on star facilities. The design Pakarang Cape, a coral Pansea Bay, in the marries a classic Phuket headland, the resort’s upscale Cherngtalay area, architectural style with all lovely beach offers calm the Surin Phuket enjoys modern conveniences. swimming conditions all spectacular views.

Places to Stay ❮❮ 113 Zeavola life venues, fine eateries, 38 villas has a different and attractions. But when character, from tree MAP L4 • Moo 8 Laem you want to retire some­ houses to safari tents to Tong, Ko Phi Phi • 07562 where peaceful, the gates thatched­roof pavilions, 7000 • www.zeavola. to this resort transport all done with imagination com • BBB you into a true oasis. and sophistication. The This luxury resort is ethos is wellness, with situated on Ko Phi Phi The Nai Harn healthy food, a superb Don’s northern tip. The spa and yoga classes. resort’s 53 guest bunga­ MAP H5 • 23/3 Vises lows are fashioned out of Road, Naiharn Beach Malisa Villa Suites rich Thai teakwood, and • 07638 0200 • www. the beds feature cool thenaiharn.com • BB MAP H5 • 40/36 Kata linens. The resort offers The views of Naiharn Bay Road, Kata Beach • 07628 a speedboat transfer from this beachfront 4760-4 • www.malisa service from Phuket. property are breathtaking, villas.com • BBB and it is also the only The resort’s name derives Boutique Hotels hotel with direct access from the Thai word for to the beach. The rooftop jasmine. The rooms, Baan Yin Dee pool bar, Reflections, designed to evoke the offers 360­degree views. comforts of home with MAP N2 • 7/5 Muean modern kitchens and Ngen Road, Patong The Old Phuket comfortable living spaces, Beach • 07629 4103–6 open onto private pools. • www.baanyindee.com MAP H4 • 192/36 Karon • BB Road, Karon • 07639 Paresa Resort This resort has Thai­style 6353-6 • www.theold architecture and decora­ phuket.com • BB MAP G1 • 49 Moo 6, Layi- tive finishes. On a hill Designed in the classic Nakalay Road, Kamala above Patong, the rooftop Phuket architectural style • 07630 2000 • www. terrace has great views that was popular on the paresaresorts.com • BBB and benefits from a island in the 19th century, Paresa is perched atop breeze, while the pools this charming hotel still a cliff overlooking the are perfect for a cool dip. retains the glory of the Andaman Sea, between Rooms feature wooden island’s tin­mining days. Patong and Kamala floors and gentle lighting. The rooms are modern, bays and surrounded by with clean lines; some trees and flowers. This Chanalai Flora have private Jacuzzis. secluded boutique resort Resort features spacious villas, Aleenta Resort & Spa many with private pools. MAP H5 • 175 Koktanode Road, Kata Beach • 07633 MAP E2 • 33 Moo 5, Kok Phi Phi Island Village 0148 • www.chanalai. Klooy, Takuatung, Phang Beach Resort com • BB Nga • 07658 0333 A modern­style resort • www.aleenta.com/ MAP F3 • 97/197–9 hotel located just five phuket • BBB Moo 4, Virat Hongyok minutes from the beach. Located 20 minutes north Road, Ko Phi Phi • 07562 The rooms are spacious, of Phuket airport, Aleenta 8900 • www.phiphiisland and most have balconies. offers bright and airy village.com • BBB The resort has two rooms. For the ultimate in The villas and thatched swimming pools and also exclusivity, book a beach­ roof bungalows of this provides free Wi­Fi. front villa, which comes resort blend well with Ko with a personal butler. Phi Phi Don’s tropical Impiana Resort terrain. Interiors boast Phuket Keemala rich teakwood and com­ fortable luxury furnishings. MAP N2 • 41 Thaweewong MAP G1 • Nakasud Road, The resort also has its Road, Patong Beach • Kamala • 07635 8777 own private beach, as 07634 0138 • www. www.keemala.com • BBB well as a pool overlooking impiana.com • BB Nestled in an old­growth Lo Ba Goa Bay and the This seaside resort enjoys forest hillside, set above Andaman Sea. access to the area’s night­ Kamala Bay, each of the

114 ❯❯ Streetsmart Twinpalms Phuket Thai-inspired retreat pools is carved into the boasts spacious and seashore rocks and filled MAP A6 • 106/46 Moo 3, luxurious villas and with seawater. The Surin Beach Road suites, with sea views property’s private cruiser, • 07631 6500 • www. and private infinity pools. Yacht Royale, provides twinpalms-phuket.com Andara Resort’s restau- exclusive day trips to • BBB rant, Silk (see p66), serves Phang Nga Bay. The sleek, minimalist the finest Thai cuisine in rooms at Twinpalms are stylish surroundings. The Pavilions Phuket personalized with local decorative touches and Banyan Tree MAP B6 • 31/1 Moo 6, bespoke furniture. The Cherngtalay • 07631 grounds feature tranquil MAP B6 • 33/27 Moo 4, 7600 • www.thepavilions and imaginative tropical Srisoonthorn Road, resorts.com • BBB water gardens. Cherngtalay • 07632 The romantic villas at this 4374 • www.banyantree. resort offer either ocean Romantic Hotels com • BBB or hillside views, with Located in the upscale unequaled privacy. Rooms Cape Panwa Hotel Laguna resorts complex, all have modern Asian this marvelous resort interiors with European MAP K5 • 27 Moo 8, exudes romance and touches. It also has Sakdidej Road, Cape charm. Guests of the facilities for weddings. Panwa • 07637 2400 hotel can opt to take a • www.capepanwa.com dinner cruise on Sanya The Slate Phuket • BB Rak (“promise of love”), A charming property on an aptly named vessel for MAP B4 • Nai Yang Beach Phuket’s southeastern experiencing Phuket’s • 07632 7006 • www.the coast, this hotel has legendary sunset. slatephuket.com • BBB hosted many Hollywood This bold property uses film stars, while the JW Marriott Khao raw timber and modern classic Panwa House, Lak Resort & Spa chic to stunning effect. now a restaurant, is Suites feature subtle regularly featured in MAP E1 • 41/12 Moo 3, touches of individual movies. The hotel also Khuk Khak, Takua Pa, artistry and have gentle has a spa, as well as Phang Nga • 07658 4888 lighting. The villas with access to a private beach. • www.marriott.com private pools offer the • BBB ultimate in romantic Sawasdee Village A popular destination seclusion, and the spa Resort and Spa for honeymooners, this has treatments-for-two beachfront resort north rooms. The hotel has MAP H5 • 38 Katekwan of Phuket island features received numerous Road, Kata Beach • 07633 Southeast Asia’s longest awards for its trend- 0979 • www.phuket swimming pool. Nearby setting design. sawasdee.com • BB attractions include parks, Designed to resemble a waterfalls, and scuba Trisara Phuket traditional Thai village, diving sites. Resort using teakwood and Thai art and artifacts, this has Mom Tri’s Villa MAP B6 • 60/1 Moo 6, been named one of the Royale Phuket Srisoonthorn Road, most beautiful resorts Cherngtalay • 07631 in the country. MAP H5 • 12 Kata Noi 3022 • www.trisara.com Road, Kata Noi Beach • BBB Andara Resort • 07633 3568 • www. Located on a private bay and Villas villaroyalephuket.com and set amongst lush • BBB tropical foliage, Trisara MAP G1 • 15 Moo 6, This boutique hotel, a offers 39 private pool Kamala • 07633 8777 former royal summer villas and suites with an •www.andaraphuket. house, features luxurious emphasis on privacy. com • BBB suites decorated with Dedicated cooks and Set on a gently sloping traditional Thai artistic service staff cater to hillside overlooking the touches. One of its three your every need. Andaman Sea, this luxury

Places to Stay ❮❮ 115 Mid-Range Hotels with floor­to­ceiling Manathai blends windows overlooking contemporary archi­ Baan Krating a pretty garden. tectural design with classic Asian styles, MAP H6 • 11/3 Moo 1, Baan Laimai textures, and fabrics. Wiset Road, Rawai, Ao Beach Resort The spa offers a range of Sane Beach • 07651 0927 therapeutic massages, • www.baankrating.com MAP N1 • 66 scrubs, and wraps. •B Thaweewong Road, Patong With a lush jungle setting, • 07634 2620 • www. Millennium Resort Baan Krating is a haven of baanlaimai.com • BB seclusion and peace. The This resort offers privacy MAP N2 • 199 Rat Uthit villas are well appointed, in the heart of Patong. 200 Pee Road, Patong clean, and comfortable. Some rooms feature • 07660 1999 • www. The beach bar overlooks hardwood floors and millenniumhotels.com Naiharn Bay. Asian­inspired design. • BB The swimming pool Located off the beach in Metropole Phuket encircles an island with Patong, this resort gets palm trees, accessed via high marks from visitors MAP P5 • 1 Soi Surin, a charming bridge. for its location. It is Montri Road, Phuket next to the upscale Town • 07621 4020 Kamala Beach Jungceylon shopping • www.metropolephuket. Resort mall, and also com • B surrounded by popular The Metropole Phuket MAP G1 • 96/42–3, Moo restaurants and vibrant offers 248 rooms and 3, Kamala Beach, Kathu, nightlife. Rooms range suites in Phuket Town. Phuket • 07634 2620 from simple chic studios Guests can enjoy tradi­ • www.kamalabeach.com to expansive suites. tional Thai­style spa • BB massages, or dine at the Located close to the Burasari Patong two restaurants or in the beach, the weekend Boutique Hotel executive cocktail lounge. market, and good restaurants, the Kamala MAP N2 • 18/110 The Royal Palm Beach Resort has four Ruamjai Road, Patong Beach Front pools, a massage parlour, • 07629 2929 • www. and a gym. Guests must burasari.com • BBB MAP N1 • 66/2 be over 16 years of age. Named after the rare Thaweewong Road, Patong flower that blooms on • 07634 2424 • www. Kata Palm the property, this hotel theroyalpalm.com • B Resort and Spa offers tranquility and Smart interiors define rooms decorated in an the 67 rooms at the Royal MAP H5 • 60 Kata Road, elegant classic northern Palm, located in the heart Kata • 07628 4334 Thai Lanna (traditional of Patong. With a range • www.katapalmresort. style) fashion. of facilities, including an com • BB outdoor pool and Jacuzzi, The comfortable rooms Mangosteen a steam room, and a spa, are furnished in Thai Resort & Spa the hotel offers travelers wood and fabrics, with many comforts. hand­carved teak decora­ MAP J5 • 99/4 Moo 7, tions. With Karon and Soi Mangosteen, Rawai Sino House Kata nearby, guests are • 07628 9399 • www. close to great shopping, mangosteen-phuket.com MAP P5 • 1 Montri Rd., dining, and nightlife. • BBB Phuket Town • 076 232 A peaceful hilltop resort, 494 • www.sinohouse Manathai Surin the Mangosteen enjoys phuket.com • B lovely views of the hills, Sino House is a modern MAP A6 • 121 beaches, and bays of three story building, near Srisoonthorn Road, Surin Phuket. At night there’s the Old Town area, nicely • 07627 0900–5 • www. a free shuttle service to decorated and furnished manathai.com • BB the nearby Rawai and in Sino­Portuguese style. A stylish boutique Naiharn beaches. Rooms are large and airy, hotel on Surin Beach, For a key to hotel price categories see p112

116 ❯❯ Streetsmart Budget Hotels destinations populated Patong Pearl by larger-than-life literary Resortel Andatel Hotel characters. The rooms Patong Phuket boast rich wood paneling MAP N1 • 3 Sawadirak and furniture, lush silk Road, Patong • 07634 MAP N2 • 41/9 Rat Uthit throws and pillows, and 0121 • B 200 Pee Road, Patong tranquil Buddha images. With its central location in • 07629 0480 • www. The hotel is good value Patong, this modern and andatelhotel.com • B for money in Patong. well-maintained hotel is A short distance from a comfortable place at the beach, this hotel has Kata Beach Studio which to unwind in the classic Thai-style villas middle of the busy city. and a charming pool that MAP H4 • 90/5 A swimming pool and receives sunlight through Khoktanod Road, Kata sun deck lift the Patong the day. Rooms are • 07633 3323 • www. Pearl a cut above other simple but well kept. katabeachstudio.com • B budget properties. Guests can really make Deevana Patong themselves at home in Rattana Beach Hotel Resort & Spa these modern studios, which boast kitchens and MAP H4 • 72/2–5 Patak MAP N2 • 43/2 Rat Uthit, balconies. The rooftop Road, Karon • 07639 200 Pee Road, Patong pool and Jacuzzi benefit 6415–7 • B • 07634 1414–5 • www. from impressive views. The Rattana offers guests deevanapatong.com • B There is also a swanky well-priced accommo- This secluded 4-star poolside bar that is open dations close to Karon resort, surrounded by daily until 10pm. Beach. Superior rooms tropical gardens, sprawls have balconies overlooking across 12 acres (5 ha) of The Memory the pool. Enjoy a cocktail land in Patong. On your at On On Hotel at the poolside bar, or a doorstep, however, are short stroll to the beach. the island’s best nightlife, MAP K3 • 19 Phang Nga fine dining, and entertain- Road, Phuket Town White Sand Resortel ment venues. Simple, • 07621 1154 • B clean guest rooms are Phuket Town’s oldest MAP N1 • 3–7 Sawadirak tastefully decorated and hotel, although recently Road, Patong • 07629 quite comfortable. and tastefully renovated, 6013–8 • www.whitesand still retains a special patong.com • B Good 9 @ Home character and charm. Quiet rooms and very Budget-price dorm spacious suites all come MAP H6 • Soi Wassana, rooms have curtains with a private balcony and Viset Road, Rawai • 081 for privacy. If it looks sea or garden views. The 834 3898 • www.face familiar, a scene from hotel restaurant is well book.com/good9athome the movie The Beach known for its fresh •B was filmed here. seafood, and there’s A simple, seven-room a rooftop pool. guesthouse, this gets Nai Yang Beach great reviews for clean- Resort Family Hotels liness and friendly staff. The location is very quiet, MAP B3 • 65/23–4 Nai Hilton Phuket yet just a few minutes’ Yang Beach Road • 07632 Arcadia Resort & Spa walk from Rawai Beach. 8300 • B Do book in advance. Located in the heart of MAP H4 • 333 Patak Sirinat National Park, the Road, Karon • 07639 Hemingway’s Hotel resort promises a relax- 6433 • www.hilton.com ing stay at prices that • BB MAP N3 • 188/17–20 are tough to beat. The This is a vast, tropical Phangmuang, Patong scenery is memorable – garden complex on Karon • 07654 0895 • www. you drive past a rubber beach, with multiple pools hemingwayshotel.com plantation on the way, and and tennis and squash •B the resort is set right on courts, as well as a choice The name of this hotel Nai Yang Beach. of ten restaurants. There evokes images of exotic is also a Kidz Paradise

Places to Stay ❮❮ 117 club, with a team of Angsana Laguna a unique setting – professionals to keep the Phuket they are in a garden children happy while surrounded by a large parents are enjoying the MAP B6 • Srisoonthorn pool. As a result, nearly spa, gym, or beach. Road, Cherngtalay every room enjoys direct • 07635 8500 • www. access to the water. Holiday Inn angsana.com • BBB There is also a special Resort Phuket Aside from the expansive children’s pool and a grounds (perfect for fitness center. MAP N2 • 52 cycling) and the ocean- Thaweewong Road, and lagoon-based water Mövenpick Resort Patong • 07637 0200 sports (sailing and paddle & Spa • phuket.holidayinn boarding), the Angsana’s resorts.com • BB Tree House Kids Club MAP H4 • 509 Patak With specially designed gets top reviews. Even Road, Karon • 07639 family and kids’ suites, the spa has a specially 6139 • www.moeven this resort also has an tailored children’s menu. pick-hotels.com • BBB extensive Kids Club for The resort’s Play Zone children under 12. Club Katathani Phuket is one of the largest on 12, a parent-free zone Beach Resort Phuket. Here, children with Internet, games, can participate in a variety movies, and karaoke, is MAP H4 • 14 Kata Noi of supervised activities. perfect for teenagers. Road, Karon Beach • 07633 0009 • www. Outrigger Laguna Laguna Holiday katathani.com • BBB Phuket Beach Resort Club Resort Situated on the secluded Kata Noi Bay, this stylish, MAP B6 • 323 Moo 2, MAP B6 • 61 Moo 4, self-contained luxury Srisoonthorn, Bang Tao Srisoonthorn Road, beach resort features six • 07636 0600 • www. Cherngtalay • 07627 outdoor swimming pools, outriggerthailand.com 1888 • www.laguna including four specially • BBB holidayclubresort.com for kids, sports and crafts Offering a park with • BB classes, a Kids Club, and pools, a waterslide, An all-suite resort, this six restaurants. and a range of other is the most kid-friendly activities from kayaking option in the sedate Le Meridien Phuket to water basketball, this Laguna area. The Kids Beach Resort resort is perfect for Club organizes painting families. The Kids Club and mask-making events, MAP H4 • 29 Soi Karon also puts on a roster of treasure hunts, bowling, Nui, Karon • 07637 0100 daily events to suit their and an introduction to • www.starwoodhotels. younger guests. Thai games and crafts. com • BBB Kids over eight can take This resort’s Penguin Renaissance Phuket scuba lessons; babysitting Club for kids aged 3–12 Resort & Spa facilities are available. years offers a range of activities. The resort MAP B2 • 555 Moo 3, Mai Phuket Graceland features a mini-golf Khao Beach • 07636 3999 Resort & Spa course, rock-climbing • www.marriott.com wall, and multiple pools. • BBB MAP N1 • 190 Children can also learn Surrounded by greenery Thaweewong Road, Thai dancing, cartoon and featuring a water- Patong • 07637 0500 drawing, and how to slide, the kids’ pool at • www.phuketgraceland. make ice cream. this resort is a favorite. com • BB Away from the water, the The Graceland Resort’s Metadee Resort Kids Club entertains Kids Club gives children youngsters with movies, a supervised place in MAP H4 • 66 Kata Road, puzzles, books, and video which to play and watch Kata • 07633 7888 games, all supervised by movies. There is also a • www.metadee phuket. childcare professionals. bowling alley, swimming com • BBB The lovely grounds are set pool, and a Jacuzzi. Near Kata Yai Beach, this within a national park. chic resort has rooms in For a key to hotel price categories see p112

118 ❯❯ General Index General Index Page numbers in bold Beaches (cont.) Bua Phut 33 Buddha refer to main entries Kata Yai 29, 50 Big Buddha (Nakkerd Khao Lak 100 Hill) 42–3, 49, 72, 82, 88–9 A Ko Hae (Coral Island) 77, festivals 74 Accommodation 111, 102 footprints 76 Ko Kaew 76 112–17 Ko Similan 102 relics 10, 17, 44, 83 reclining Buddha (Ko budget tips 73 Koh Miang 78–9 Sirey) 12 Air travel 106, 107 Laem Singh Beach 92 Wat Chalong 10, 16–17, budget tips 73 Loh Dalum Beach 51, 38–9, 44, 72, 83 Wat Kathu 33 Alcohol 65, 73 101, 102 Wat Phranang Sang 45 Wat Prathong 44, 91, 93 Amulets Long Beach 50 Wat Srisoonthorn 45 Wat Suwan Khiri Khet 44 shopping 70 Mai Khao Beach 7, 51, Wat Suwan Kuha 44 Buddhism Anita’s Reef 30 53, 93 meditation classes 73 Naiharn Buddhist Antiques Maya Bay 7, 51, 100, 101 Monastery 26 shopping 70 Monkey Beach 101, 102 see also Temples Budget travel 72–3 Ao Sane Beach 27, 84 Nai Thon Beach 23, 94 hotels 116–17 Bungee jumping 55 Aqua Zone Marine Park 61 Nai Yang Beach 22, 94 Burmese invasion 40 Buses 106, 107 Aquarium, Phuket 60, 84 Naiharn Beach 11, 26–7, C Architecture 51, 52, 81, 83 Cabaret Phuket Town 12, 15, 53, Natai Beach 99 Patong 19 104–5 Paradise Beach 84 Cable Jungle Adventure Phuket 94 Wat Chalong 16 Patong Beach 10, 18, 50, Cafés see Restaurants Artwork 53, 81 Camping shopping 70 Rawai Beach 84 Ko Similan 102 Nai Yang Beach 22 ATV touring 54 Surin Beach 50, 52, 94 North Phuket 96 Canoeing Tonsai 101 Khao Sok National Park B Yanui Beach 26, 83, 84 32 North Phuket 96 Bamboo rafting Beacon Reef 31 Cape Panwa Hotel Phuket Race Week 75 Khao Sok National Park Beer 65, 73 Cars 107 Caves 33 Bhumibol, King 75 Khao Khian 36 Khao Sok National Park Bang Niew Shrine (Phuket Bicycles 55, 107 33 Town) 47 North Phuket 96 Ko Phanak 36 Viking Cave 101, 102 Bang Pae 93 trips and tours 110 Wat Suwan Kuha 44 Central Festival Phuket 68 Bang Pae Waterfall 20, 49, Big Buddha (Nakkerd Hill) Chalong Bay Rum Distillery 84 93, 94 42–3, 49, 72, 82, 88–9 Bang Tao Beach 50 Birds horseback rides 92 Khao Phra Thaeo Royal windsurfing 94 Forest and Wildlife Bangla Road (Patong) 19, 72 Reserve 21 see also Wildlife Banks 108–9 opening hours 110 Blue Canyon Country Club Bargaining 71, 73 92 Bars 64–5 Blue Elephant Restaurant Patong 19 (Phuket Town) 14 South Phuket 85 Boats Batik Chinese junk boat painting classes 55 cruises 37 shopping 71 live-aboard boats 30 Bay Regatta 75 long-tail boat trips 107 Beaches 50–51 Phuket Boat Lagoon 91 Ao Sane Beach 27, 84 sailing 57 Bang Tao Beach 50, 92 sporting events 75 Emerald Beach 84 trips and tours 110 Karon Beach 51, 83 Boon Kaw Kong Shrine 46 Kata Beach 6, 11, 28–9, Boutique hotels 113–14 82–3 Bowling 55 Kata Noi 29, 50 Boyle, Danny 63

General Index ❮❮ 119 Chao Ley Boat Floating D Festivals 72, 74–5 Phuket Vegetarian Festival 75 Day trips 76–7, 110–11 Festival 13, 75, 81 Wat Chalong Fair 17 Charbonneau, René De Palma, Brian 63 Films 55 41 Debit cards 109 The Beach 63, 100 Chinpracha House Chaumont, Alexandre, Deep-sea fishing 56, 57 (Phuket Town) 14 films shot on Phuket 63 Chevalier de 41 Dentists 108 Fire shows Cheow Laan Lake 24–5, 32, Desfarges, General Ko Phi Phi 102 49, 99 Marshal 40 Firecrackers Wat Chalong 16 Cherngtalay Shrine 47 Dibuk Grill and Bar Fishing, deep-sea 56, 57 Children’s attractions (Phuket Town) 14 Fitness Park, Khao Rang 73 Flowers 60–61 Dibuk Road (Phuket Town) Bua Phut 33 China Inn Café (Phuket 68 Khao Sok National Park Town) 15 DiCaprio, Leonardo 51 35 Phuket Orchid Farm 84 Chinese immigration 40 Dino Park Mini-Golf (Kata Food and drink 67 Chalong Bay Rum Chinese junk boat cruises Beach) 29, 61 Distillery 84 Phang Nga Bay 37 Disabled travelers cookery classes 28 exotic fruits 69 Chinese New Year 74 110, 111 festivals 74 local drinks 65 Chinese shrines 46–7, 84 Discos see also Restaurants Fortune telling Bang Niew Shrine Patong 19 Wat Chalong 16 Free events 72–3 (Phuket Town) 47 Diving 56 French expulsion (1688) 40 Fruit 69 Boon Kaw Kong Shrine King Cruiser Wreck Dive Furniture shopping 71 46 101 G Cherngtalay Shrine 47 North Phuket 96 Galleries see Museums Jui Tui Chinese Temple Phang Nga Bay 36 and galleries (Phuket Town) 47 safety 31 Game fish 57 Gardens see Parks and Kathu Shrine 46 Similan Islands National gardens Kuan Te Kun Shrine 47 Park 30–31, 99 Ghostinium Phuket 61 Gibbons Phuket Town 6, 13, 53, 73 Sirinat National Park Gibbon Rehabilitation Put Jaw Chinese Temple 23 Project 6, 93 (Phuket Town) 46 Surin Islands National Khao Phra Thaeo Royal Forest and Wildlife Sam San Shrine (Phuket Marine Park 102 Reserve 20, 21 Town) 47 trips and tours 110 Go karting 61 Golf 55 Shrine of the Serene Doctors 108 Blue Canyon Country Light 47 Donald Duck Bay 30 Club 92 Tha Rua Chinese Shrine Drinks 65 Dino Park Mini-Golf (Kata Beach) 29, 61 46 budget tips 73 Laguna Phuket Golf Club Chinpracha House (Phuket Driving in Phuket 107 94 Town) 14 E North Phuket 96 Christmas Point 30 Grand Pagoda, Wat Cinema see Films East of Eden 31 Chalong 17 Climbing 54 Electrical appliances Clothing 110 shopping 70 Elephant Head Rock 31 what to take 110 Embassies 109 Cookery classes 55, 111 Emerald Beach 84 Kata Beach 28 Entertainment 62–3 Coral Island (Ko Hae) 77, 102 F Corruption 83 Fabrics Crafts batik 55, 71 shopping 70 shopping 70, 71 Credit cards 108–9 Fairs 74–5 Cricket 75 Farther afield 98–103 Crime 108 The best of the rest 102 Currency 108–9 day trip to Ko Phi Phi Customs and immigration 101 108 map 98 Cycling 55, 107 places to eat on Ko Phi North Phuket 96 Phi 103 trips and tours 110 Ferries 106, 107

120 ❯❯ General Index H Khao Khian 36 Language, phrase book Khao Lak 7, 52, 100 126–7 Health care 108, 109 Khao Phra Thaeo Royal Helicopter charters 49 Light, Captain Francis 40, Heroines’ Monument 43, Forest and Wildlife 41 Reserve 6, 10, 20–21, 53, 94 91, 93 Live-aboard boats 30 Hiking see Walks Khao Rang Fitness Park 73 Loh Dalum Beach 51, 101, History 40–41 Khao Sok National Park 7, 11, 24–5, 32–5, 48, 99 102 Khao Sok National Park history 35 Long Beach 50 35 scenic walks 52 Loy Krathong 75 wildlife 34–5 Luang Pho Chaem 16, 41 Wat Chalong 16 Khaw Sim Bee 41 Luang Poh Bai 45 Horseback riding 54 The Kids Club 61 Luxury hotels 112–13 King Cruiser Wreck Dive Bang Tao Beach 92 101 M North Phuket 96 King’s Cup Regatta 75 Hospitals 108, 109 Kite surfing 56 Mai Khao Beach 7, 51, 93 Hostels 73 North Phuket 96 mangroves 53 Hot springs Ko Bon 31, 77 Romanee 33 Ko Hae (Coral Island) 77, Mangroves 48 Hotels 111, 112–17 102 Mai Khao Beach 53 House of the Beautiful Ko Jum 102 Phang Nga Bay 37 Images (Phuket Town) 14 Ko Kaew 76 Sirinat National Park 23, Ko Khai Nok 76 91 I Ko Maphrao 77 Ko Miang 31 Maps Indian Ocean tsunami Ko Panyee 36, 100 beaches 51 (2004) 41, 100, 101 Ko Phanak 36 Buddhist temples 45 Ko Phi Phi 77, 101 children’s attractions 61 Insurance 108 day trip to Ko Phi Phi 101 Chinese shrines 47 Internet 109 fire shows 102 A day in Northern Phuket nightlife 102 93 J restaurants 103 day trips 76–7 Ko Phi Phi Don 7, 101 day trip to Ko Phi Phi 101 James Bond Island 8–9, Ko Phi Phi Leh 7, 48, 101 exploring Phuket 6–7 36, 48, 63, 77 Ko Phing Kan 77 Farther afield 98 Ko Racha 76 museums and Jet-skis 108 Ko Rang Yai 77 monuments 43 Jewellery Ko Si Boya 102 North Phuket 90 Ko Similan 30 Phang Nga Bay 37 pearls 71 camping 102 Phuket highlights 10–11 Jui Tui Chinese Temple Ko Sirey (Phuket Town) 12 Phuket Town 12, 80 Ko Tapu 8–9, 77 scenic walks 53 (Phuket Town) 47 Ko Yao Noi 37, 76, 102 Similan Islands National Jungceylon (Patong) 68 Ko Yao Yai 76 Park 31 Jungle trekking see Koh Miang 78–9 Sirinat National Park 22 Kuan Te Kun Shrine 47 South Phuket 80 Trekking southwest coast 83 Junk boat cruises L Marathon 75 Phang Nga Bay 37 Laem Singh Beach 92 Marine activities 56–7 Laem Singh Viewpoint Markets 68–9 K 49 Naka Weekend Market Kamala 52 Laguna Phuket Golf Club (Phuket Town) 12, Karon Beach 51, 83 68 Karon Viewpoint 29, 49, 72, 94 Laguna Phuket Patong Night Market 19, 83, 84 69 Kata Beach 6, 11, 28–9, International Marathon 75 Phromthep Cape Market 82–3 Laguna Phuket Triathlon 68 Kata Noi 29, 50, 83 75 Kata Plaza 68 Phuket Town Night Kata Temple 29 Market 68 Kata Yai 29, 50 Kathu Mining Museum 42 Sunday Walking Street Kathu Shrine 46 Market (Phuket Town) Kayaking 56 12 Khao Sok National Park Martial arts 54, 75 32 Phang Nga Bay 36 Khao Khad Viewing Tower 49

General Index ❮❮ 121 Massages 55 Museums and galleries Outdoor activities 54–5 budget tips 73 (cont.) North Phuket 96 Kata Beach 28 Thalang National Patong Beach 18 Museum 42, 92 P Thavorn Hotel Lobby Maya Bay 7, 51, 100, 101 Museum (Phuket Pagodas Meditation classes 73 Town) 43 Wat Chalong 17 Merit-making 74 Music festivals 74 Paradise Beach 84 Wat Chalong 16 Parasailing 57 Miles, Edward 42 N Parks and gardens Military coup (2014) 41, 83 Minivans 106 Nai Thon Beach 23, 94 Rang Hill (Phuket Town) Mobile phones 109 Nai Yang Beach 22, 94 13, 48 Mom Luang Tridosyuth Naiharn Beach 11, 26–7, Suan Luang Park Devakul (Mom Tri) 41 51, 52, 81, 83 (Phuket Town) 13 Monasteries Naiharn Buddhist Passports 108, 109 Naiharn Buddhist Monastery 26 Patong 6, 10, 18–19, 83 Monastery 26 Naiharn Lake 27 Patong Beach Money 108–9 Naka Weekend Market bargaining tips 71 50, 53, 81 budget tips 73 (Phuket Town) 12, 68 Patong Night Market Monkeys Nakkerd Hill 42–3 Monkey Beach 101, Narai, King 40 19, 69 Natai Beach 99 Pearls 102 National Marine parks Monkey Hill 13, 49, 72 shopping 71 Wat Suwan Kuha 44 Surin Islands 102 Personal security Monuments National parks Buddha (Nakkerd Hill) 108, 109 Khao Phra Thaeo Royal Phang Nga Bay 6, 8–9, 11, 42–3 Forest and Wildlife Heroines’ Monument 43, Reserve 6, 10, 20–21, 36–7, 48, 100 53, 91, 93 Pharmacies 108 94 Phi Phi Viewpoint 7, 49 Saphan Hin Mining Khao Sok 7, 11, 24–5, 32–5, 48, 52, 99 sunrise 99 Monument 42 Philatelic Museum (Phuket Motorbikes 54, 107 Phang Nga Bay 36–7 Similan Islands 7, 11, Town) 15, 43 exploring Phuket’s Phones 73 southwest coast 83 30–31, 48, 52, 99 Phrase book 126–7 Sirinat 6, 10, 22–3, 49, 91 Phromthep Cape 6, 27, 48, motorbike taxis 107 New Year 74 Phuket Bike Week 75 Newspapers 109 52, 72, 82 Muay Thai 75, 81 Night markets Phromthep Cape Market Naiharn Beach 27 Patong Night Market 19, Patong 18 68 Museums and galleries 69 Phuket Aquarium 60, 84 42–3, 55 Phuket Town Night Phuket Bike Week 75 Chinpracha House Phuket Boat Lagoon 91 Market 68 Phuket Cultural Centre (Phuket Town) 14 Night safaris Ghostinium Phuket 61 (Phuket Town) 13, 43 Kathu Mining Museum Khao Sok National Park Phuket Fantasea 60, 62, 82 33 Phuket Food and Music 42 Phuket Cultural Centre Nightlife 64–5 Festival 74 Kata Beach 28 Phuket Gay Pride Festival (Phuket Town) 13, 43 Ko Phi Phi 102 Phuket Philatelic 74 North Phuket 90–97 Phuket International Museum (Phuket The best of the rest 94 Town) 15, 43 A day in Northern Phuket Cricket Sixes Phuket Seashell 93 Tournament 75 Museum 42 map 90 Phuket International Rugby Phuket Thai Hua outdoor activities 96 Tournament 75 Museum 42 restaurants 97 Phuket Orchid Farm 84 Phuket Trickeye Museum shopping 94 Phuket Philatelic Museum 60 (Phuket Town) 15, 43 Thai Hua Museum O Phuket Provincial Hall (Phuket Town) 14 (Phuket Town) 15 Old Phuket Festival 74 Phuket Seashell Museum Opening hours 110 42 Phuket Surfing Contest 75

122 ❯❯ General Index Phuket Thai Hua Museum Richelieu Rock 31 South Phuket 80–87 42 Road travel 106, 107 bars 85 Rock climbing 54 The best of the rest 84 Phuket Town 6, 10, 12–15, Romanee Hot Spring 33 exploring Phuket’s 81 Romantic hotels 114 southwest coast 83 architecture 15, 104–5 Rugby 75 map 80 Chinese shrines 6, 53, 73 Rum restaurants 86–7 historical architecture 53 map 80 Chalong Bay Rum Souvenirs 70–71 restaurants 86 Distillery 84 Spa treatments 55 Phuket Town Night Market S Kata Beach 28 68 Patong Beach 18 Safety 108, 109 Special needs travelers Phuket Trickeye Museum scuba diving 31 110, 111 60 Splash Jungle Waterpark Sailing 57 60, 94 Phuket Vegetarian Festival Sam San Shrine (Phuket Sports 54–5, 72, 75 13, 75, 81 Kata Beach 29 Town) 47 North Phuket 96 Phuket Wake Park 57 Saphan Hin Mining Patong 19 Picturesque places Standard Chartered Bank Monument 42 (Phuket Town) 14 48–9 Sarasin, Pote 41 Stone, Oliver 14 Plaza Surin 69 Scenic walks 52–3 Suan Luang Park (Phuket Police 108 Scuba diving see Diving Town) 13 Por Tor Festival 75 Sea turtles 92 Sukapat, Jintara 63 Postal services 109 Sunday Walking Street Sirinat National Park 23, Market (Phuket Town) 12 opening hours 110 91 Sunrise Ptolemy 40 Seashells Phi Phi Viewpoint 99 Put Jaw Chinese Temple Phuket Seashell Sunset Phromthep Cape 6, 72, (Phuket Town) 46 Museum 42 82 shopping 70 Surf House 60–61 Q Sexual behaviour Surfing 57, 75 Patong 19 Naiharn Beach 26 Qi gong 54 Shinawatra, Yingluck 41 Surin Beach 50, 52, 94 Shooting ranges 55 Surin Islands National R Shopping 55, 68–9 Marine Park 102 bargaining 71, 73 Swimming 56 Radar Hill Viewpoint 49 Kata Beach 28 North Phuket 96 Radio 109 North Phuket 94 Raft houses opening hours 110 T souvenirs 70–71 Cheow Laan Lake 32 Shrine of the Serene Light Tai chi 54 Rafting 47 Taxes Shrines see Chinese Khao Sok National Park shrines on alcohol 73 33 Siamese revolution (1688) refunds 73 Rain forests 21 40 Taxis 106, 107 Rainy day activities 55 Silk motorbike taxis 107 Rama II, King 16 shopping 70 Telephones 109 Rama V, King 41, 91 Similan Islands National Television 109 Rang Hill (Phuket Town) Park 7, 11, 30–31, 48, Temples 44–5, 55 13, 48 99 Kata Temple 29 Rassada Port 101 scenic walks 52 Ko Sirey (Phuket Town) Ratchaprapha Dam Sino-Portuguese 32, 35 architecture 15, 104–5 12 Rawai Beach 84 Sirinat National Park 6, 10, Visakha Puja 74 Reefs 22–3, 49, 91 Wat Chalong 6, 10, Anita’s Reef 30 Snorkeling 56 Beacon Reef 31 North Phuket 96 16–17, 38–9, 40, 44, Religious amulets Sirinat National Park 72, 83 shopping 70 Wat Kajonrangsan 45 Restaurants 66–7, 111 23 Wat Kathu 44 budget tips 73 Songkran 74 Ko Phi Phi 103 Songthaew 106 North Phuket 97 Phuket Town 86 South Phuket 87 see also Food and drink

General Index ❮❮ 123 Temples (cont.) Trekking (cont.) Wat Mai Khao 94 Wat Ko Sirey 49 Khao Sok National Park Wat Phranang Sang 45 Wat Kosit Wihan 45 33 Wat Prathong 44, 91, 93 Wat Mai Khao 94 North Phuket 96 Wat Putta Mongkol 45 Wat Phranang Sang 45 Wat Srisoonthorn 45 Wat Prathong 44, 91, 93 Triathlon, Laguna Phuket Wat Suwan Khiri Khet 44 Wat Putta Mongkol 45 75 Wat Suwan Kuha 44 Wat Srisoonthorn 45 Water skiing 57 Wat Suwan Khiri Khet 44 Trickeye Museum 60 Water sports Wat Suwan Kuha 44 Trips and tours 110–11 see also Chinese shrines Tsunami (2004) 41, 100, Kata Beach 29 Patong 19 Textiles 101 Waterfalls batik 55, 71 Tuk-tuks 73, 107 Bang Pae 20, 49, 93, shopping 70, 71 Turtle Village Shopping 94 Tha Rua Chinese Shrine Centre 68 Khao Sok National Park 46 Turtles 92 32 THAI Airways Office Sirinat National Park 23, Ton Sai 6, 20, 93, 94 (Phuket Town) 15 91 Waterparks Splash Jungle Waterpark Thai Hua Museum (Phuket V 60, 94 Town) 14 Wax figures Vaccinations 108 Wat Chalong 17 Thalang National Museum VAT refunds 73 Weather 110 42, 92 Vegetarian Festival 13, 75, Wildlife Gibbon Rehabilitation Thalong Road (Phuket 81 Town) 68 Viewpoints Project 6, 93 gibbons 20, 21 Thao Srisoonthorn 40, 41, Big Buddha (Nakkerd Khao Phra Thaeo Royal 45 Hill) 49, 72, 82, 88–9 Forest and Wildlife Thao Thep Kasattri Karon Viewpoint 29, 49, Reserve 6, 10, 20–21, 40, 41 72, 83, 84 53, 91, 93 Khao Sok National Park Thavorn Hotel Lobby Khao Khad Viewing 33, 34–5, 99 Museum (Phuket Town) Tower 49 sea turtles 23, 92 43 Wildlife Conservation Laem Singh Viewpoint 49 Development and Theft 108 Monkey Hill 49, 72 Extension Centre (Khao Theme parks Phi Phi Viewpoint 7, 49, Phra Thaeo) 20 Williams, Robin 63 Phuket Fantasea 60, 62, 99 Windmill Viewpoint 82 Phuket 49 (Naiharn Beach) 27, 49 Splash Jungle Waterpark Radar Hill Viewpoint 49 Windsurfing Rang Hill 13, 48 Bang Tao 94 60, 94 Wat Ko Sirey 49 Women travellers 108 Time zone 110 Windmill Viewpoint Tin 40 Y (Naiharn Beach) 27, 49 Kathu Mining Museum 42 Viking Cave 101, 102 Yachts see Boats Saphan Hin Mining Virgin rain forest 21 Yanui Beach 26, 83, 84 Visakha Puja 74 Monument 42 Visas 108, 109 Z Ton Sai Waterfall 6, 20, 93, Visitor information 110, 111 Ziplines 55 94 W Cable Jungle Adventure Tonsai 101 Phuket 94 Tourist information 110, Wakeboarding 57 Khao Phra Thaeo Royal Walks Forest 21 111 North Phuket 96 Travel 106–7 scenic walks 52–3 see also Trekking budget tips 73 Wat Chalong 6, 10, 16–17, Travel insurance 108 38–9, 40, 44, 72, 83 Travel safety advice 108, Wat Kajonrangsan 45 Wat Kathu 44 109 Wat Ko Sirey 49 Trekking 54 Wat Kosit Wihan 45 Khao Phra Thaeo Royal Forest and Wildlife Reserve 21

124 ❯❯ Acknowledgments Acknowledgments Author 11cb; Chris Fredriksson 82b; Robert Fried 71cl; Kevin Hellon 3tr, 15cra, 92-3, 104-5; A frequent traveler to Phuket and southern Friedrich von Hörsten 30br; imageBROKER / Thailand, William Bredesen has been the Stella 23tl, 27tl; International Photobank 74tc; assistant editor of Bangkok Post The Magazine Kees Metselaar 91t; Jason Knott 12cl, since 2009. He has previously worked on a 53cl, 68cla; LOOK Die Bildagentur der contemporary Thai history book, Chronicle Fotografen GmbH / Thomas Stankiewicz of Thailand: Headline News Since 1946, and 19bl; Craig Lovell 52c; Benny Marty 4t; he holds a Master’s degree in Southeast MediaWorldImages 4clb; MO:SES 4crb; Asian Studies from Chulalongkorn University National Geographic Creative 94tr; Ernita in Bangkok. Nenggala 54clb; Panther Media GmbH / perszing1982 2tl, 8-9; parasola.net 48-9, 98tl; Additional Contributor Peter Holmshaw Publishing Director Georgina Dee Dmitry Rukhlenko - Travel Photos 7br; M. Sobreira 2tr, 38-9, 53br; Samuel Spicer 32clb; Publisher Vivien Antwi travelstock44.de / Juergen Held 48cla; Peter Design Director Phil Ormerod Treanor 19crb; Peter Vallance 22cl; Steve Vidler 54-5; Matthew Wakem 55tr; Jan Editorial Sophie Adam, Ankita Awasthi Wlodarczyk 44-5; Andrew Woodley 63c; Tröger, Michelle Crane, Rebecca Flynn, Zoonar GmbH / Sergey Pristyazhnyuk Rachel Fox, Akshay Rana, Sally Schafer, (Serg Zastavkin) 26crb. Sands Publishing Solutions Banyan Tree Gallery Phuket: 95cr. Cover Design Richard Czapnik Black Ginger: 97cr. Design Tessa Bindloss, Bharti Karakoti, Vinita Venugopal Bridgeman Images: History / Rainer Krack 40t. Picture Research Susie Peachey, Ellen Root, Lucy Sienkowska Dreamstime.com: Dimitris Apostolou 28-9; Stuart Atkinson 42bc; Babycoconut 14bl; Commissioned Photography Brent Madison Ihar Balaikin 82tl; Banky405 11tr; Sergey Cartography Subhashree Bharti, Suresh Belov 35b; Pipop Boosarakumwadi 6cla; Mr. Kumar, Stuart James, Casper Morris Phonlawat Chaicheevinlikit 60br; Pakphipat Base mapping supplied by Huber Charoenrach 10cr; Doraclub 23br; Jakob Kartographie Fischer 76crb; Fabio Formaggio 65tr; Geargodz 96t; Sean Harms 16-7; Jaroon DTP Jason Little Ittiwannapong 73cl; Attila Jandi 35cra; Jedynakanna 102br; Kajornyot 34cr; Sombat Production Jude Crozier Factchecker Neil Ray Khamin 12-3, 42t; Khellon 11br, 12br, 14t; Proofreader Clare Peel Kogolffoto 88-9; Patryk Kosmider 33tl; Indexer Hilary Bird Torsten Kuenzlen 92clb; Ratchanikon Kulaptip 52t; Manit Larpluechai 33crb; Adam Laws 11ca; Chee-onn Leong 10br; Lestor Picture Credits 49cl; Jedsada Luadthainarong 13cr; Thanawut Makawan 18-9; Maria Malkina The publisher would like to thank the 26cla; Aliaksandr Mazurkevich 17br; Sophie following for their kind permission to Mcaulay 70crb; Mosaymay 10cla; Mullrich reproduce their photographs: 10clb; Apidech Ninkhlai 4cla; Nokhook Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; 75cla; Kampee Patisena 37clb; Pavantt 26-7; l-left; r-right; t-top Alexey Pavlov 46t; Wiroj Phongthadaporn 123RF.com: Sergey Belov 76-7; Nilanjan 30-1; Pakpoom Phummee 10cra, 15bl; Bhattacharya 77cr; John Hu 74b; milxela 69tl; Ppy2010ha 67tr; Viacheslav Ryukhko 23clb; Patryk Kośmider 100-1; Chirasak Smolny1 75b; Lee Snider 18clb, 19tl, 47cr; Tolertmongkol 20clb. Tayawee Supan 44tl, 68-9; Suriya007 34bl; Suttipong Sutiratanachai 99b; Tagstiles 50b; Alamy Stock Photo: age fotostock / Gonzalo Thawats 21bl; Artit Thongchuea 32br; Tuayai Azumendi 65cl; allOver images 1; Mary 17tl; Nuttawut Uttamaharad 27cr; Andrews 84b; Arco Images / Kiedrowski; R. Valentyn75 69b; Yongkiet 3tl, 36br, 78-9; 71tr; Arco Images GmbH / K. Kreder 4cl, 57cl; Zastavkin 29br. David Austin 28br; Sergey Belov 4b; Chronicle 41tr; Sorin Colac 36-7; Danita Delimont / Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket: Ton Santipong Stuart Westmorland 11cr; Gary Dublanko 66bl. 36cl; Eagle Visions Photography / Craig Lovell FLPA: OceanPhoto 31clb.

Acknowledgments ❮❮ 125 Getty Images: Pete Atkinson 77tl; Paula Printed and bound in China Bronstein 41clb; Adisorn Fineday Chutikunakorn 72b; Ashit Desai 72tl; Reinhard First American edition, 2012 Dirscherl 56tl; Michael Freeman 71bl; Gallo Published in the United States by Images / Danita Delimont 31br; John Harper DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, 50tl; Martin Harvey 34tl; Kaveh Kazemi 46bl; Lonely Planet 21tl, 61cl; Lonely Planet Images New York, New York 10014 / Paul Kennedy 29tl, / Wibowo Rusli 17cr; LOOK-foto / Ingolf Pompe 58-9; 67cl; Moment Copyright 2012, 2017 © Dorling / Luciana Calvin 101cla, / Sirachai Kindersley Limited Arunrugstichai 30cl, / Vincent Jary 102cl; Moviepix / Keith Hamshere 63tr; Norbert A Penguin Random House Company Probst 83cl; Sebun Photo / Youjiro Oda 81tr; Iryna Shpulak 91br; simonlong 62tr; Sirachai 17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Arunrugstichai 99tl; Ullstein Bild / Raimund Franken 56b, 73tr, 80cla; Ullstein Bild / Reprinted with revisions 2014, 2017 Reinhard Dirscherl 4cra; 57tr; Stuart Westmorland 54tr. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or The Gibbon Rehabilitation Project: 93bl. introduced into a retrieval system, or iStockphoto.com: 4FR 24-5; lkunl 32-3. transmitted in any form, or by any means Paresa Resorts: 87clb. (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without the prior Phuket FantaSea: 60t. written permission of Rex Shutterstock: Paul Brown 100tl. the copyright owner. Robert Harding Picture Library: Ingolf A catalog record for this book is available Pompe 62b; Luca Tettoni 81clb. from the Library of Congress. SuperStock: Hemis.fr / Julien Garcia 51tl; ISSN 1479-344X imageBROKER / Josef Beck 94b. ISBN 978 1 4654 6128 5 White Box Restaurant: Stefano Beber 66tr. Cover Front and spine: Alamy Stock Photo: Jan Wlodarczyk Back: Dreamstime.com: Edigos Pull Out Map Cover Alamy Stock Photo: Jan Wlodarczyk All other images © Dorling Kindersley SPECIAL EDITIONS OF For further information see: www.dkimages. DK TRAVEL GUIDES com DK Travel Guides can be purchased As a guide to abbreviations in visitor information in bulk quantities at discounted prices blocks: Adm = admission charge; DA = disabled for use in promotions or as premiums. access; D = dinner; L = lunch. We are also able to offer special editions and personalized jackets, corporate imprints, and excerpts from all of our books, tailored specifically to meet your own needs. To find out more, please contact: in the US [email protected] in the UK [email protected] in Canada [email protected] in Australia penguincorporatesales@ penguinrandomhouse.com.au

126 ❯❯ Phrase Book Phrase Book Please can you...? chôo-ay kòrp-kOOn Thank you mâi ao kòrp-kOOn Thai is a tonal language and regarded by most No, thank you kŏr-tôht (krúp/kâ) sa-wùt dee linguists as head of a distinct language group, (krúp/kâ) lah gòrn ná though it incorporates many Sanskrit words from Excuse me/sorry kOOn sa-bai dee ancient India, and some modern English ones, too. Hello reu (krúp/kâ)? sa-bai dee There are five tones: mid, high, low, rising, and (krúp/kâ) ...bpai yung-ngai? falling. The particular tone, or pitch, at which each Goodbye kOOn pôot pah-săh ung-grìt syllable is pronounced determines its meaning. For Useful Phrases bpen mái? instance “mâi”(falling tone) means “not,”but “măi” pôot pah-săh tai mâi bpen (rising tone) is “silk.”See the Guidelines for How are you? tăir-o née mee toh-ra-sùp yòo Pronunciation, below, for a phonetic transliteration têe-năi? of the Thai script for English speakers, including Very well, thank you rórn yen or năo guidance for tones in the form of accents. dee mâi dee How do I get to...? bpèrt bpìt Guidelines for Pronunciation Do you speak sái kwăh When reading the phonetics, pronounce syllables English? glâi hôrng náhm as if they form English words. For instance: nêe rah-kah a = as in“ago” ay = as in“day” I can’t speak Thai. tâo-rài? mee...mái? e = as in“hen” er = as in“enter” rub but cray-dit/ chék dern i = as in“thin” ew = as in“few” Where is the nearest tang mái? bpèrt/bpìt gèe o = as in“on” oh = as in“go” public telephone? mohng? sóng khŏng nee u = as in“gun” oo = as in“boot” bpai dtàhng bpra-tâyt ah = as in“rather” OO = as in“book” Useful Words dâi mái? ai = as in“Thai” oy = as in“toy” lót rah-kah nòy dâi mái? air = as in“pair” g = as in“give” hot ...bàht dâi mái? ...bàht gôr ao = as in“Mao Zedong” ng = as in“sing” cold láir-o-gun pâh-măi tai good ráhn kăi yah dta-làht These sounds have no close equivalents in English: bad sÓOp-bpêr- mah-gêt eu can be likened to a sound of disgust open mee hôrng - the sound could be written as“errgh” closed wâhng mái? hôrng air bp a single sound between a“b”and a“p’ left (pŏm/dee-chún) ja púk yòo dt a single sound between a“d”and a“t” right keun nèung/ săhm keun near Note that when“p,”“t,”and“k”occur at the end of toilet Thai words, the sound is “swallowed.”Also note that Shopping many Thais use an “I”instead of an “r”sound. The Five Tones How much Accents indicate the tone of each syllable. does this cost? no mark The mid tone is voiced at the speaker’s Do you have? normal, even pitch. Do you take credit á é í ó ú The high tone is pitched slightly cards/traveler’s higher than the mid tone. checks? à è ì ò ù The low tone is pitched slightly lower What time do you than the mid tone. open/close? ă ĕ ĭ ŏ ŭ The rising tone sounds like a Can you ship questioning pitch, starting low this overseas? and rising. â ê î ô û The falling tone sounds similar to a syllable word for emphasis. Could you lower the price a bit? In an Emergency How about...baht? I’ll settle for...baht. Help! chôo-ay dôo-ay! Fire! fai mâi! Thai silk Where is the tăir-o-née mee pharmacy nearest hospital? rohng pa-yah- market bahn yòo têe-năi? supermarket Call an rêe-uk rót pa-yah- ambulance! bahn hâi nòy! Staying in a Hotel Call a doctor! rêe-uk mŏr hâi nòy! Call the police! rêe-uk dtum Do you have a ròo-ut hâi nòy! vacant room? Communication Essentials air-conditioned room I’d like a room Yes châi or krúp/kâ for one night/ No mâi châi or mâi three nights. krúp/mâi kâ

Phrase Book ❮❮ 127 What is the charge kâh hôrng wun la gah-fair coffee per night? crab May I see the room tâo-rái? bpoo crispy noodles first please? dry noodles Will you spray kŏr doo hôrng mèe gròrp duck some mosquito durian repellent, please? gòrn dâi mái? gŏo-ay dtĕe-o hâirng egg double/twin room fish single room chôo-ay chèet yah bpèt ginger bill iced water key gun yOOng hâi tÓO-ree-un mushroom shower noodle soup swimming pool nòy dâi mâi? kài papaya pineapple Sightseeing hôrng kôo bplah pork rice tourist office hôrng dèe-o kĭng rice noodles shrimp tourist police bin núm kăirng bplào soy sauce tea beach gOOn-jair hèt vegetables island (ko) water museum fùk boo-a gŏo-ay dtĕe-o-náhm national park róâ-sèukmâisa-bai sá wâi náhm ma-la-gor dtoo-a-rórn temple (wat) bpen kâi Thai boxing sùp-bpa-rót rôhk hèut Thai massage rôhk bao wăhn trekking néu-a-mŏo tórng sĕe-a wee-un hŏo-a Transportation sŭm-núk ngahn kâo bpòo-ut tórng air-sa-bprin or How long does it gahn tôrng têe-o gŏo-ay dtĕe-o yah-gâir kâi take to get to...? mŏr dtum-ròo-ut gÔOng tun-dta-pâirt What station is this? or mŏr fun tôrng tée-o ah-hăhn wâhng rohngpa-yah-bahn ticket yah air-conditioned bus háht or chai-háht núm chah bai sùng yah (pŏm/dee-chún) airport gòr pùk páir... tour bus train pí-pít-ta-pun náhm sŏon bus station nèung ÒO-ta yahn Health sŏrng moped háirng châht săhm taxi sèe wút I do not feel well hâh Eating Out hòk moo-ay tai I have a fever jèt A table for two bpàirt please. nôo-ut gâo May I see the sìp menu? gahn dern asthma nèung róy Do you have...? tahng táo nèung pan Is it spicy? diabetes nèung chôo-a May I have a glass mohng of water, please. diarrhea krêung chôo-a mohng Waiter/waitress! dizzy wun ah-tít The check, please. wun jun chái way-lah stomach ache wun ung-kahn Menu Decoder wun pÓOt nahn tâo-rài aspirin wun pa-réu-hùt néu-a woo-a bpai tĕung wun sÒOk bee-a wun săo yâhng têe...? doctor gài prík têe nêe sa-tăhn- dentist nee a-rai? dtŏo-a hospital rót bprùp medicine ah-gàht prescription sa-năhm bin I’m allergic to... rót too-a rót fai Numbers sa-tăhn-nee rót may 0 rót mor-dter-sai 1 táirk-sêe 2 3 4 kŏr dtó sŭm-rŭp 5 sŏrng kon 6 kŏr doo may-noo 7 nòy? 8 mee...mái? 9 pèt mái? 10 kŏr núm kăirng 100 bplào gâir-o 1000 nèung one hour kOOn (krúp/kâ) kŏr bin nòy half an hour (krúp/kâ) Sunday Monday beef Tuesday beer Wednesday char-grilled Thursday chicken Friday chili Saturday

128 ❯❯ Selected Sight Index Selected Sight Index Ao Chalong J4 Ko Panyee F2 Phuket Town K3 Ao Makham K4 Ko Phanak F2 Phuket Town Night Market J3 Ao Sane Beach H5 Ko Phi Phi Don L6 Phuket Trickeye Museum P5 Ao Tu Khun C2 Ko Phi Phi Leh F4 Plaza Surin G1 Ao Yabu L1 Ko Racha E4 Put Jaw Temple N6 Ban Ko L5 Ko Rang Yai L1 Rassada Port L3 Ban Yit B2 Ko Sirey L3 Ratsada K2 Banana Disco N2 Ko Sirey Temple L3 Rawai H6 Bang Cho H1 Ko Yao Noi F3 Rawai Beach H6 Bang Khanun C4 Ko Yao Yai F3 Rawai Supa Muay Thai H5 Bang Khothi J5 Kuan Te Kun Shrine K1 Rock City P2 Bang Khu K1 Kutu K2 Roots Rock Reggae Bar P3 Bang Niew Shrine Q6 Laem Chan K3 Sai Yuan H5 Bang Pae Waterfall D5 Laem Nga L2 Sakoo B4 Bang Rong E4 Laem Trang M6 Sam San Shrine N5 Bang Tao Beach B6 Laem Tukkae L3 Sapam K1 Bangla Boxing Stadium P2 Laguna Phuket Golf Club H1 Saphan Hin Mining Big Buddha H4 Li Phuan C6 Monument K3 Blue Canyon Country Club C3 Liphon Hua Han J1 Shrine of the Serene Light P5 Bo Raea K3 Loh Dalum Beach L6 Siam Niramit K2 Bo Sai B3 Long Beach M6 Similan Islands D2 Cable Jungle Adventure Luang Pho Wat Chalong Q5 Simon Cabaret N3 Phuket C5 Ma Nik J1 Sinbi Muay Thai H5 Canal Village H1 Mai Khao B3 Sirinat National Park B3 Cape Panwa K5 Mai Khao Beach B3 Splash Jungle Waterpark B3 Central Festival Phuket J3 Mission Hills Golf Course D4 Standard Chartered Bank P5 Chalong Bay Rum Distillery J4 Molly Malone’s N2 Suan J4 Cherngtalay H1 Monkey Beach L5 Suan Maphrao B2 Cherngtalay Shrine H1 Monkey Hill K2 Surf House Kata H5 Chi Lao K2 Muang Mai C4 Surf House Patong N2 Chinpracha House N5 Nai Thon A4 Takua Pa E1 Dino Park Mini-Golf H4 Nai Thon Beach A4 Talat Kathu J2 Emerald Beach G3 Nai Yang B4 Tha Chat Chai B1 Ghostinium Phuket J3 Nai Yang Beach B4 Tha Maphrao C3 Gibbon Rehabilitation Naiharn Beach H6 Tha Rua J1 Project D5 Naiharn Buddhist Monastery H5 Tha Rua Chinese Shrine J1 Hard Rock Café N2 Naiharn Lake H5 Thai Hua Museum P5 Heroines’ Monument J1 Naka Market J3 Thalang C5 House of Beautiful Images P5 Natai Beach E2 Thalang National Museum J1 Hua Khuan H1 Pa Khlok D5 Thalat Nua J3 Jui Tui Temple N5 Panwa Buri K4 Thalat Yai J2 Jungceylon P2 Paradise Beach G3 Thap Lamu E2 Kamala G1 Patong H3 Thavorn Hotel Lobby Kamala Beach G1 Patong Beach N1 Museum P5 Kangaroo Bar N2 Patong Boxing Stadium P1 Tho Sung J2 Karon H4 Patong Go-Kart Speedway H2 Tin Khao J3 Karon Beach H4 Phak Chit D6 Ton Sai Waterfall D5 Karon Viewpoint H5 Phang Nga F2 Tonsai L6 Kata H4 Phang Nga Bay F3 Tonsai Beach L6 Kata Noi Beach H5 Phi Phi Viewpoint M5 Tung Toong J2 Kata Yai Beach H5 Phlu Yai K2 Turtle Village Shopping Kathu J2 Phromthep Cape H6 Centre B2 Kathu Mining Museum J2 Phuket E3 Wat Boon Kaw Kong Shrine H2 Khao Khad Viewing Tower K4 Phuket Aquarium K5 Wat Chalong J4 Khao Lak E2 Phuket Boat Lagoon K1 Wat Kajonrangsan N5 Khao Phra Thaeo Royal Forest Phuket Bus Terminal 1 Q5 Wat Kathu J2 and Wildlife Reserve D5 Phuket Bus Terminal 2 K2 Wat Kosit Wihan K2 Khao Sok National Park F1 Phuket Cultural Centre K2 Wat Mai Khao B3 Khok Makham H2 Phuket Fantasea G1 Wat Phranang Sang C5 Khok Sai J4 Phuket Laguna Riding Club H1 Wat Prathong C5 Khok San J5 Phuket Orchid Farm J4 Wat Putta Mongkol P5 Khok Tanot H1 Phuket Pearl Factory L1 Wat Srisoonthorn C6 Ko Bon J6 Phuket Philatelic Museum P5 Wat Suwan Khiri Khet H4 Ko Hae J6 Phuket Provincial Hall K3 Wichit Songkhram N5 Ko Kaeo K1 Phuket Seashell Museum H5 Windmill Viewpoint H6 Ko Maphrao L1 Phuket Shooting Range J4 Yanui Beach H6


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