Picturesque Places ❮❮ 49 8 Sirinat National Park BEST PHUKET VIEWPOINTS Located in northwest Phuket, Sirinat National Park (see pp22–3) View from Big Buddha protects some of Phuket’s last man 1 Karon Viewpoint groves, as well as pristine beaches This has breathtaking views of Kata including Mai Khao Beach, a nesting Noi, Kata, and Karon beaches, plus a sites for sea turtles. An elevated sheltered viewing pavilion (see p29). nature trail guides visitors through 2 Laem Singh Viewpoint the mangrove forests, with signs MAP G1 explaining the various species. Above the beach of the same name, there is a covered platform with seating. 9 Cheow Laan Lake 3 Windmill Viewpoint Surrounded by treecovered MAP H6 limestone cliffs, this stunning lake in A good alternative to the sometimes the heart of Khao Sok National Park crowded Phromthep Cape, this offers is scattered with floating bamboo excellent views to the south. raft houses. In the early morning, 4 Big Buddha Viewpoint the lake’s longtail boats and mist A religious site, this is home to a shrouded shores provide excellent massive white marble Buddha statue material for photographers. Monkeys, (see p82). wild boars, and gibbons populate the 5 Khao Khad Viewing Tower surrounding forest (see p32). MAP K4 This hilltop tower in Cape Panwa Floating homes on Cheow Laan Lake provdes picturesque views, including the Big Buddha statue. 0 Bang Pae Waterfall 6 Wat Ko Sirey At a height of 59 ft (18 m), this MAP L3 isn’t exactly a breathtaking plummet On an islet off Phuket’s east coast, this of water, but Bang Pae Waterfall temple offers great views over the sea. offers a picturesque backdrop for 7 Monkey Hill swimming. Located close to the Don’t get close to the naughty resident Gibbon Rehabilitation Project in the macaques on this hill (see p13). Khao Phra Thaeo Royal Forest and 8 Radar Hill Viewpoint Wildlife Reserve, it is best visited MAP H3 during the rainy season between At 1,735 ft (530 m) above sea level, this June and November (see p20). is the highest point on Phuket. 9 Phi Phi Viewpoint MAP M5 The route is steep but with good steps. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the top. 10 Helicopter Charters This is a breathtaking way to see Phuket from above. A ten-minute flight will cost around B5,000.
50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Beaches 3 Bang Tao Beach MAP B6 Home to international windsurfng competitions, Bang Tao is one of Phuket’s best places to catch a wave. The upscale Laguna Phuket Resort complex occupies the middle of the beach, while the northern end is undeveloped, offering a respite from the crowds. You can ride horses on the soft golden sand here for a magical experience. Palm-fringed Kata Beach 4 Surin Beach MAP A6 1 Kata Beach Populated by numerous highend The seashore here has two resorts, and with expensive private separate beaches, Kata Yai and Kata homes on the surrounding hillside, Noi, which are divided by a rocky cliff. Surin Beach is sometimes referred Kata Yai is the larger, and busier, of to as Millionaire’s Row. The beach the two. Once a haven for back is very popular with locals, who packers and hippies, Kata Beach appreciate the area’s excellent today caters to an increasingly seafood. The water is calm and upscale crowd, and is very popular clear from November to April, but for its stunning beauty (see pp28–9). be cautious about strong undertows during the low season. 2 Patong Beach Phuket’s premier nightlife 5 Long Beach center also offers a long, straight MAP M6 beach, ideal for swimming or jogging With some of the best beachaccess away the effects of the previous night’s snorkeling on the Ko Phi Phi islands revelry. The beach has something for and with breathtaking views of Ko Phi everyone: toward the south end, Phi Leh, Long Beach is both secluded parasailing rides and jet skis roar; and scenic. During the afternoon, it moving north, there are sunbeds caters almost exclusively to travelers and umbrellas for rent; while the here; nights are blissfully quiet. far north end of the beach is the most peaceful (see Long Beach, perfect for snorkeling pp18–19).
Beaches ❮❮ 51 Secluded Maya Bay 9 Loh Dalum Beach 6 Maya Bay Perhaps the world’s most MAP L6 famous beach after its role in the Leonardo DiCaprio blockbuster The This picture-postcard Beach, beautiful Maya Bay on Ko Phi beach, outlined by Phi Leh has almost single-handedly green hills and craggy inspired travelers worldwide to visit cliffs, is understandably southern Thailand. With its sparkling one of Ko Phi Phi’s most turquoise waters and exquisite white popular destinations. sand – not to mention the near total Swimmers can wade absence of development – perhaps out into its turquoise Maya Bay truly is paradise (see p100). waters, which, even at quite a distance from the shore, are only waist deep. In the distance, the colored cliffs of Nui Bay rise up against the backdrop of the sky. 0 Naiharn Beach A quiet beach on Phuket’s southwestern tip, Naiharn is framed by rolling green hills and emerald waters, and offers a perfect hide- away far from the crowds. The calm, warm water is ideal for swimming, and because there is just one resort property here – the Royal Phuket Yacht Club Hotel, with breathtaking views of the bay – travelers feel as if they’ve stumbled upon a well-kept secret (see pp26–7). 7 Karon Beach Tha Chat 0 km 5 5 MAP H4 Chai 0 miles This large beach offers plenty of Phuket 4233 Muang Chang space for sunbathers who want a Sakoo 402Mai Taeng little privacy. With more than 3 miles Thalang Bang Pae (5 km) of powdery white sand lapped Nai Thon 4021 40224031 gently by the turquoise waters of the 402 4027 Andaman Sea, Karon Beach is often Cherngtalay less crowded than its neighbors in Patong and Kata. The magnificent Tha Rua coral reef at its southern end is perfect for snorkeling. Kamala 8 Mai Khao Beach Patong Kathu Ratsada Part of Sirinat National Park, Chalong Phuket Town Mai Khao Beach is not the usual Phuket tourist beach. There are no Karon Ko Phi Phi private watercraft, and most of the Kata 25 miles (40 km) buildings are luxury resorts, none of which infringes on the area’s natural Rawai beauty. Due to the beach’s proximity to the airport, airplanes sometimes fly low overhead (see p23).
52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Scenic Walks Waterside walk from Naiharn Beach to Phromthep Cape 1 Naiharn Beach to walking the rough jungle trails here. Phromthep Cape Buddhist monks once kept forest Walk away from the beach, head retreats in the area; the ruins of clockwise around Naiharn Lake, and these shelters can still be seen. follow signs to Phromthep Cape. The 4 Khao Sok National Park hilly, stretching walk will take you Trek through ancient forest in past Yanui Beach. At the end of the Khao Sok (see pp32–5), encountering path are two awesome viewpoints – exotic birds, wildlife, and orchids. one facing Naiharn Beach (see Keen bird-watchers will be delighted pp26–7), and the other, westward over the to see several species of hornbill, Andaman Sea. while long-tail macaque 2 Similan monkeys and gibbons swing Islands through the trees above. Paddle Asia (see p33) Best known for its exciting offers a popular soft underwater sites, the Similan adventure tour for spot- Islands (see pp30–31) also ting wildlife, as well as offer a few hiking trails. On Ko tailored trips. Similan, the main island, a tree-lined 5 Surin Beach path winds up to a viewpoint with to Kamala breathtaking vistas. The best part, of course, is that you’ll see Hornbill From ritzy Surin Beach, hardly a soul on your way up. at Khao Sok home to top-end resort 3 Khao Lak properties, walk south MAP E2 along the sand until you reach a pathway crossing over to Laem A number of hiking trails can be Singh Beach. This stunningly pictur- found in and around Khao Lak, esque cape on the west coast is including a popular scenic forest tucked between Surin and Kamala. path starting near the base of Spend some time here before the 33-ft- (10-m-) tall Chong Fah continuing to Kamala, where there is Waterfall. Sturdy shoes help while a relaxed beach and fishing village.
Scenic Walks ❮❮ 53 6 Chinese Shrines 40 miles (60 km) in Phuket Town 75 miles (120 km) A popular way to enjoy the sights Suan Maphrao of Phuket Town is to focus on its wonderful markets and colorful 4233Phuket Muang Chinese shrines. Jui Tui and Put 4233SakooMai Jaw, two of Phuket’s most important Chinese shrines, are located near Nai Thon 4030 Ranong Road. This walking tour 402 is marked on the Phuket Town 4031 Bang Pae Historical Map, distributed free 4021 4022 at Phuket International Airport. 4027Thalang 7 Mangrove Forests Cherngtalay Tha Rua on Mai Khao Beach 4025 At the northern end of Mai Khao Beach (see p23) stands one of Kamala Phuket’s most pristine mangrove forests. An elevated walkway guides 402 visitors above these fascinating trees, which survive in saltwater. Patong Kathu Ratsada Signs describe the plant species Chalong Phuket Town here, which include black myrsina, red cycas, and mountain ebony. Karon 60 miles Kata (100 km) Rawai 0 km 5 0 miles 5 up the main beach road, you’ll pass by bustling open-air restaurants displaying the day’s catch on ice, and lively cocktail-sipping crowds. Turn right onto hedonistic Bangla Road and spend some time simply people-watching. Phuket Town’s historic achitecture 0 Khao Phra Thaeo Royal Forest and 8 Historical Architecture Wildlife Reserve in Phuket Town The most popular trek in this Take a walk back in time past the national park begins at the park classic homes and shops built during headquarters at Ton Sai Waterfall, Phuket’s tin boom in the late 19th navigates through 4 miles (6 km) of and early 20th centuries. Many were virgin forest, and ends at Bang Pae constructed in the Sino-Portuguese Waterfall. Besides abundant natural architectural style. The best routes to plant species, the park is also home take are down Phang Nga, Thalang, to monkeys, flying foxes, wild pigs, Dibuk, Krabi, and Yaowarat roads. and cobras (see pp20–21). Keep an eye out for the spectacular Soi Romanee, located off Thalang Lush forests of Khao Phra Thaeo Road (see pp14–15). 9 Patong Begin this stroll from the southern end of Patong Beach around dusk (see p18). As you walk
54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Outdoor Activities 1 Tai Chi and Qi Gong Horseback riding on the beach These ancient Chinese practices, although based on martial 4 Horseback Riding arts, are not violent, and more akin Phuket Riding Club: MAP C5; to yoga or meditation. Classes are 60/9 Thepkasattri Road, Thalang; 081 available, but once you’re more 787 2455; www.phuketridingclub.com skilled, you can join the morning Horseback rides on Phuket are a sessions in the Suan Luang Park great experience. Mornings and late in Phuket town (see p13). afternoon are the best time to saddle up, since midday can be very hot. 2 Motorbike Rides Cruise the hilly coastal roads of western Phuket, past scenic view- points and tropical foliage, on your bike. Motorbikes can be rented in tourist areas and roadside stands sell fuel in old whiskey bottles. Always wear a helmet. 5 ATV Touring 59/26 Moo 5, T. Srisuntorn A. Thalang; 089 874 0055; atvphuket.com All-terrain vehicles are an exciting way to see local villages, farms, and off-the-beaten-path sights. Phuket ATV Tour includes an option to go white-water rafting in Phang Nga, or to experience a ropes course. Wear sports clothes and closed-toe shoes. Rock climbing on Tonsai Tower 6 Trekking Thailand’s scenic jungle paths lead hikers past waterfalls and lush flora, full of wild orchids and ferns. The Khao Phra Thaeo Royal Forest and Wildlife Reserve (see pp20–21) has a scenic trail, and at Khao Sok National Park (see pp32–5), walkers can trek through luxuriant jungle and beautiful bamboo forests. 3 Rock Climbing Spidermonkey Climbing: MAP M5; Ko Phi Phi; 0756 1026; www.spidermonkeyphiphi.com With more than 30 climbing routes, two of which ascend to the 450-ft (137-m) summit, Tonsai Tower on Ko Phi Phi Don also has a number of easy routes which make it ideal for beginners. There are courses on how to belay, lead climb, and multipitch.
Outdoor Activities ❮❮ 55 7 Cycling TOP 10 ACTIVITIES Amazing Bike Tours Thailand: FOR RAINY DAYS 087 263 2031; www.amazingbike toursthailand.asia Indulging in a Thai massage 1 Cooking Classes Cycling through Phuket’s countryside Learn to make delicious traditional is a great way to explore and to get Thai food at one of the island’s many some exercise while on holiday. local cooking schools. Half-day, full-day, and overnight 2 Thai Massage tours through breathtaking scenery This ultra-relaxing form of massage also allow cyclists to meet locals. involves stretching and deep, but not painful, pressure. 8 Bungee Jumping 3 Spa Treatment Jungle Bungy Jump: MAP J2; With its legendary hospitality, Thailand 61/3 Wichitsongkram; 07632 1351; has earned a reputation as one of www.phuketbungy.com Asia’s top spa destinations. 4 Museums Those seeking an adrenaline fix can Phuket’s rich tin-mining history can plunge down a beautiful lagoon in be seen through exhibits at a number Kathu’s bungee-jumping site. Jungle of local cultural museums. Bungy offers standard leaps, tandem 5 Temples dives, and touch-water dives. All Visit one of Phuket’s 40 Buddhist jumpers are awarded certificates temples to observe local monks of courage. performing traditional ceremonies. 6 Batik Painting Class 9 Ziplining Visit a batik gallery and create your Hanuman World: MAP J4; own version of the popular southeast 105 Moo 4 Chaofah Road, Wichit; Asian fabric art. 07639 0189; www.hanuman 7 Shopping worldphuket.com Rain or shine, the street markets are always open. Phuket has many indoor Safely strapped into a harness and shopping complexes too. attached to a cable, zipliners sail high 8 Phuket Shooting Range above ground propelled only by gravity. Indoor and outdoor shooting ranges Phuket has several zipline providers. offer target practice for all ages and abilities. 0 Golf 9 Cinema Phuket is one of Thailand’s SF Cinema City, located at Jungceylon top golfing destinations, thanks to in Patong, and the cinemas at Central its picturesque and challenging Festival near Phuket Town, all show courses. The rolling greens of the the latest releases. Blue Canyon Country Club’s (see p92) 10 Bowling two championship courses host a A modern bowling alley with 16 lanes number of professional golf tour is located at SF Cinema City. events that attract acclaimed golfers. Blue Canyon golf course
56 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Marine Activities Snorkeling in Phuket’s azure waters 3 Swimming A translucent turquoise, 1 Snorkeling delightfully warm, and fringed by soft Almost every beach here has sand, the Andaman Sea has made snorkeling opportunities, with boat Phuket one of the world’s favorite trips to the popular shallow-water destinations. Whether at bustling reefs surrounding Phuket. Masks, Patong or idyllic Yanui, Phuket’s fins, and snorkels are available at beaches offer great swimming. beachfront rental shops. 4 Deep-Sea Fishing 2 Kite Surfing Phuket Fishing Charters: Kite Boarding Asia: MAP B4; MAP J4; 48/12 Soi Sunrise, Chalong; 74/10 Nai Yang Beach (Dec–Mar: 08137 03181; www.phuketfishing MAP J4; Chalong Bay); 081 591 charters.com 4594; www.kiteboardingasia.com The Andaman Sea offers anglers a The northern beaches of Phuket chance to cast for big-game fish, get the best wind for this activity, in from prized marlins and sailfish to which a parachute-like kite pulls the hard-fighting tuna and giant trevally. rider on a small surfboard. Since a Most sportfishing off Phuket oper- level of skill is required, it can be ates on a catch-and-release policy. more rewarding than parasailing. 5 Scuba Diving The dive sites here are among the best in the world. With crystal- clear visibility, gorgeous coral reefs and rock formations, and abundant sea life, there are astonishing under- water opportunities for divers. 6 Kayaking Explore Phang Nga Bay’s extraordinary sea caves in a kayak or a canoe. Rock tunnels lead into lagoons surrounded by jungles with hornbills, kingfishers, and even monkeys. John Gray’s Sea Canoe (see p37) has been leading eco- friendly canoe trips since 1983. Kayakers at Phang Nga Bay
Marine Activities ❮❮ 57 7 Surfing TOP 10 BIG GAME FISH IN PHUKET Though not one of the world’s main surfing destinations, Phuket’s west coast nonetheless offers ample opportunities to catch a wave. Kata and Bangtao beaches host annual surfing and windsurfing competi tions. Other surf spots include Kalim, Naiharn, and Surin beaches. 8 Parasailing Grouper swimming amongst coral As the speedboat accelerates, your parachute pulls you up into the 1 Sailfish sky to enjoy staggering overhead The ocean’s fastest fish migrates views of emerald waters and green through waters near Phuket during hills. Once the excitement of takeoff the summer months. is over, you’ll soon feel relaxed whilst 2 Yellow Fin Tuna surveying the scene below. These beautiful, powerful fish have long been one of the favorite prey Sailing on a Chinese junk of big-game anglers. 3 Dogtooth Tuna 9 Sailing These massive fish dwell near elevated Phuket Sail Tours: MAP C5; tropical reef pinnacles in the deep 199/20 Moo 5, Srisoonthorn, Thalang; waters around Phuket. 087 897 0492; www.phuketsail 4 Dorado tours.com Sometimes called mahi-mahi, these Cruise to uninhabited islands with surface-dwelling, ray-finned fish are pearly sand beaches, palm trees, fantastically colorful. and blue waters. Chartered yacht, 5 Giant Trevally sailboat, and junk trips offer an Though not physically huge, the giant opportunity to explore unspoiled trevally puts up one of the toughest locations in the Andaman Sea. fights in the sea. 6 Wahoo 0 Phuket Wake Park The meat of the wahoo, a prized MAP J2 • Phuket Cable Ski, big-game fish, is considered a delicacy 86/3 Moo 6, Vichitsongkram Road, by many gourmet cooks. Kathu • 07620 2527 • Open 9:30am– 7 Spanish Mackerel sundown daily • www.phuketwake With its razor-sharp teeth, this fish park.com often cuts its way through trolling bait. Since 1997, Phuket’s only wake park 8 Barracuda has given wakeboarders and water This toothy, ray-finned fish eats almost skiers a setting to hone their skills, everything. It is well known for its with ramps, kickers, and slide rails. frightening appearance. 9 Black Marlin One of the most prized captures in the Asia Pacific, the black marlin makes for the perfect trophy. 10 Grouper The biggest grouper ever caught off Phuket, captured with shark bait, weighed nearly 198 lb (90 kg). Following pages Performance at the famous Simon Cabaret at Patong Beach, Phuket
60 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Children’s Attractions One of Phuket Fantasea’s lavish musical extravaganzas 1 Phuket Fantasea 4 Splash Jungle A magical, Disney-like affair, Waterpark the colorful Phuket Fantasea show thrills young audiences with its With twisting waterslides, a wave carnival games, souvenir shopping pool, and the 1,100-ft- (335-m-) long street, and exciting parades, pageants, lazy river, this water-theme park (see and street shows at the theme park. p94) is excellent. In the Boomerango The enormous Golden Kinnaree water slide you will plunge down, Buffet satisfies even the pickiest of through a tube, into the Super Bowl, eaters. The park has attracted some before hitting the splashdown pool. controversy due to its use of animals for performances (see p82). 5 Surf House Kata Beach: MAP H5, Southern 2 Phuket Trickeye Kata Beach, 08197 97737, Open Museum 10am–midnight daily; Patong Beach: MAP N2, 162/6-7 Taweewong Rd, MAP P5 • Cnr Montri and Phang Nga Open 9:30am–11pm daily • Adm • roads, Phuket Town • 07621 2806 • www.surfhousephuket.com Open 10am–7pm (last adm 6pm) • Adm A high-pressure wave-generating • www.phukettrickeyemuseum.com machine throws a shallow sheet of water up a sloping “pool.” Beginner Over 100 trompe l’oeil sculptures and 3D drawings put visitors in Catching a wave in the Surf House unlikely and hilarious environments, such as balancing on a rickety bridge over a raging river. It’s great for photo opportunities. 3 Phuket Aquarium MAP K5 • Sakdidet Road, Cape Panwa • 07639 1126 • Open 8:30am–4:30pm daily • Adm • www.phuketaquarium.org Set on a scenic bay, this aquarium houses over 150 fresh- and saltwater species, including electric eels, sharks, sea turtles, and stingrays. Displays cover Thailand’s rivers, lakes, coral reefs, and mangroves.
Children’s Attractions ❮❮ 61 surfers hold onto a guiding safety soccer pitch, and much more for rope. If they should happen to “wipe children of all ages. On duty, there out,” the strong water flow ensures are seven full-time nannies, who that, instead of sliding back down, assure the play stays fun and safe. they shoot safely upwards. It’s great fun for kids over 10. 9 Ghostinium Phuket MAP J3 • 2nd floor, Central 6 Go Karting Festival Phuket East, Phuket Town MAP H2 • Patong Go-Kart • 095 491 9800 • Open noon–8pm Speedway, 118/5 Vichitsongkram Tue–Sun • Adm Road, Kathu • 07632 1949 • Open 10am–7pm daily • Adm • www. An indoor attraction that is good for gokartthailand.com rainy days, Ghostinium is an anima- tronics museum, bringing a weird With kids’ karts reaching speeds up blend of science-fiction future and to 25 mph (40 kmph), and specially prehistoric past to life. Consisting of designed karts driven by an adult five main rooms featuring about 16 with a child’s passenger seat, the large, fully animated exhibits, it Patong Go-Kart Speedway often provides fun and education for kids hosts Mini Grand Prix races, and adults alike, as well as a few including competitions for kids. surprises and even frights. Visitors under five might find it a bit too scary. 0 Aqua Zone Marine Park MAP N2 • Patong Beach • Open Dec–Apr: 9:30am–6pm daily • Adm Located near Soi Bangla, these 13 inflated floating play stations are housed in a roped-off section of sea protected from motorized marine traffic. The park offers a climbing mountain, trampoline, waterslide, and seesaw. Golfing with dinosaurs at Dino Park Suan Maphrao 0 km 5 0 miles 7 Mini-Golf at Dino Park 5 MAP H4 • Marina Phuket Resort, Karon Beach • 07633 0625 Phuket 4026 402Muang Mai • Open 10am–midnight daily • Adm Sakoo 4022 • www.dinopark.com Nai Thon 4031 4027 This 18-hole miniature golf course 402 navigates around a swamp, lava Thalang Bang Pae cave, waterfall, erupting volcano, and a roaring Tyrannosaurus Rex. A fun Cherngtalay environment for a competitive round of putting, it also has a theme bar 4025 Tha Rua and restaurant. Kamala 8 The Kids Club MAP N2 • 2nd floor, Patong Kathu Ratsada Promenade, 70 Bangla Road, Patong Patong Phuket Town • 081 085 0008 • Open 10am–9pm daily • Adm Chalong Panwa Buri 4233 The Kids Club offers slides, crawl tubes, swings, a trampoline, a ball Karon 4024 room, a flying fox ride, an indoor Kata Rawai
62 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Entertainment Venues 1 Hard Rock Café Bangla Road’s nightlife scene MAP P1 • Rat Uthit Road, Patong • 07634 0210 • Open 8:30pm– 4 Bangla Road 1:30am for live music• Adm MAP N2 For peoplewatching, you won’t find This internationally known a setting more outrageous than the establishment is decorated with night scene on the infamous Bangla memorabilia from famous rock Road. At once seedy and harmless, legends, and has an excellent line up this central vein of Patong is filled of performers. The restaurant has with beer bars, club promoters, and the capacity to seat 300 people at pleasureseeking travelers from once, and along with the bar, is every corner of the globe. The streets spread over two floors. coming off Bangla Road are home to even more entertainment venues. 2 Bangla Boxing Stadium The upper deck seats at 5 Phuket Fantasea Bangla Boxing Stadium look straight A spectacular stage show down at the action, and are close stars trapeze artists and traditional enough that an uppercut glancing off dancers.There’s also a theme park a boxer’s jaw might make you leap filled with games and shops, all out of your seat. These are the best with an elephant theme (see p82). seats in the house. Fight promoters cruise through the streets of Patong 6 Snake Shows in pickup trucks during the after MAP J4 • Phuket Shooting noon, promoting the fights of the day Range, 82/2 Patak Road • 07638 1667 with loud Muay Thai music (see p18). • www.phuket-shooting.com Watch a deadly cobra have venom 3 Simon Cabaret extracted from its razorsharp fangs MAP N3 • Sirirat Road, or a handler kiss one between its Patong Beach • 07634 2011 • eyes. At a Phuket snake show, you Open 7:30–9:30pm daily • Adm can even also have your photograph • www.phuket-simoncabaret.com taken with a massive boa constrictor. Phuket’s most popular cabaret features outrageous costumes and sets, along with a flamboyant cast of transvestite performers. Since 1991, Simon Cabaret has promised male guests they will arrive relaxed but leave confused, because the perfor mers are “more of a man than you’ll ever be, and more of a woman too!” Flamboyant Simon Cabaret
Entertainment Venues ❮❮ 63 7 Phuket Siam Niramit TOP 10 FILMS SHOT ON PHUKET MAP K2 • Chalermprakiet Road, Ratsada, north of Phuket Town Scene from Tomorrow Never Dies • 07633 5000 • Open 5:30–10:30pm 1 The Man with the Golden Gun Wed–Mon • www.siamniramit.com (1974) This 007 movie featured Ko Khao A tasteful but lively cultural show Phing Kan (see p36), now popularly case of the best of Thai classical known as James Bond Island. dance, music, and martial arts, with 2 The Killing Fields (1984) toplevel performers and special Based on Cambodia’s Khmer Rouge effects. The show itself runs from 8:30–10pm, but it’s best to arrive regime, this movie shows Phuket’s early to enjoy the Thai village, and French and US embassies. floating market on the grounds. 3 Good Morning, Vietnam Good for the whole family. (1987) Starring Robin Williams and 8 Patong Boxing Stadium Chintara Sukapatana, this film’s Phuket’s top venue to watch jungle scenes were shot on Phuket. 4 Casualties of War (1989) Muay Thai presents real fights every Brian De Palma’s Vietnam War film features very realistic jungle scenes Monday and Thursday night. filmed on Phuket. 5 Cutthroat Island (1995) Foreigners who train at the local Starring Geena Davis, this pirate film was shot in secluded Maya Bay on gyms frequently get onto the cards Ko Phi Phi Leh (see p100). 6 Tomorrow Never Dies (1997) against each other, or local Thai Phang Nga Bay (see p36–7) was portrayed as Vietnam’s Halong Bay boxers, and these in this 007 film. 7 The Beach (2000) fights are often Ko Phi Phi Leh’s Maya Bay stole the show in this movie by Danny Boyle. among the most 8 Star Wars: Episode III – Revenge of the Sith (2005) exciting. Early Backdrops from Krabi province were featured in this movie. evening fights pit 9 The Impossible (2012) Shot and set in Khao Lak, this is based younger, light on the true story of a Spanish family caught up in the 2004 tsunami. weight boxers 10 Patong Girl (2014) This follows a German family’s visit to against one Phuket, where the teenage son falls in love with a transgender Thai woman. another; the bouts gradually build up toward the main event Muay Thai, (see p18). Patong Stadium 9 Fire Dancing Popular on Ko Phi Phi Don’s beaches, and in some of Patong’s beachfront hotels, this rare perform ance art features flaming staffs and poi spinning in the darkness to pulsating music. To watch these glowing rays of light is mesmerizing, and in photographs the fire dancers often appear to be playing with halos. 0 Go-Go Bars Patong, in particular Bangla Road, is well known for its many adult venues. Club promoters stroll the street with programs describing what will be on stage that night. Always use your best judgment when entering any bar, and make sure you ask for prices before ordering.
64 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Bars and Nightclubs Musicians playing a gig at the Timber Hut 1 Timber Hut 3 Rockin’ Angels Phuket Town’s top live music Blues Café venue features an excellent in-house band. Busy during the week, and MAP P4 • 55 Yaowarat Road, sometimes downright wild on week- Old Phuket Town • 89654 9654 ends, this is a great place to dance • Closed Monday and party. A favorite with local Thais, the bar also attracts its fair share of This lively blues venue is run by a foreign visitors (see p85). Singaporean guitarist. The café and bar may be small, but it is a great 2 After Beach Bar place to hang out if you become tired Near Karon Viewpoint, on the of the blaring dance music heard winding mountain road between Kata elsewhere in the town. There are live and Rawai, this relaxing bar over- blues and classic rock performances looking the sea plays a constant from the band six nights a week. stream of reggae and acoustic tunes. It’s popular for post-beach cocktails 4 Aussie Bar while watching the sunset (see p85). Located right in the middle of Bangla Road, Patong’s best-known family-friendly sports bar screens all the big football, cricket, and rugby matches on more than 30 TVs. The bar promotes upcoming games on its website (see p85). 5 Banana Disco A long-term crowd pleaser, Banana Disco comes to life around midnight, when crowds flock onto the dance floor for the pounding house music. A great place to dance and drink, the disco remains one of Patong’s most popular late-night venues. The B200 cover charge gets you one drink (see p85). Selection of drinks, After Beach Bar
Bars and Nightclubs ❮❮ 65 6 Z1implex Mixology TOP 10 FAVORITE LOCAL DRINKS Laboratory Singha and Chang beers MAP Q5 • Phang Nga Road • 084 003 6664 • Open 9pm–1am 1 Singha Beer Unique, friendly, trendy – this Phuket Most foreigners pronounce the name venue is comfortable and cozy, with a of this lager as “Singh-ha,” although DJ that keeps the volume at the right the proper pronunciation is “Singh.“ level for conversation. 2 Chang Beer This potent lager is one of the 7 Yoonique Stone country’s top-selling beers. Equally Music Café popular on tourist T-shirts is the Chang elephant logo. A local favorite, this funky little dive 3 Leo Beer behind Naiharn Lake hosts regular A flavorful lager, Leo Beer is produced jam sessions and live bands in a by Boon Rawd Breweries. unique and artistically decorated 4 Tiger Beer environment (see p85). Singapore’s first locally brewed beer is popular throughout Thailand. 8 Sunflower Bar 5 Red Bull Cocktails MAP M6 • Tonsai, Ko Phi Phi The energy drink’s formula was • Open 11–2am invented by a Thai businessman, who Sunflower is more relaxed than most still owns 49 per cent of the company. Tonsai nightlife. The “buckets” (Thai 6 “Buckets” whiskey, Red Bull, cola and ice, in a Be wary of this potent Thai specialty, plastic bucket) are infamous, but they a mix of alcohol, cola, and Red Bull do nice coconut-based cocktails, too. in a bucket, meant to serve a group. 7 Sangsom Crowds outside Kangaroo Bar Despite its reputation as a Thai whiskey, the liquor is in fact a rum. 9 Kangaroo Bar 8 Phuket Beer Centrally located on Bangla The bottle’s logo features a brightly Road, Kangaroo Bar draws lively colored hornbill, perched near Phuket’s crowds. This popular venue has an Phromthep Cape. in-house DJ, and is also famed as a 9 100 Pipers prime vantage point for scoping out This popular western-style whiskey is Patong’s colorful passersby (see p85). imported from (although not bottled in) Scotland. 0 Molly Malone’s 10 San Miguel Light The island’s most popular This brew from the Philippines can Irish pub has been going strong be found widely throughout Thailand, since it first opened in 1999. On the including Phuket. main beach road, Molly Malone’s offers live pub-rock every night, and flatscreen TVs broadcast live sports. It serves traditional pub fare, as well as brews such as Guinness, Kilkenny, and Magners Cider on tap (see p85).
66 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Restaurants 1 Silk Stylish White Box Restaurant A stylish Thai restaurant with contemporary interiors, Silk reservation well in advance. The serves some of the best Thai cuisine setting is reflected in On the Rock’s in Phuket. The snapper in ginger, seafood menu (see p87). celery and pickled plums is a must- try as is the signature dish, the Goon 4 White Box Restaurant Sarong, with prawns wrapped in With a rooftop lounge with Phuket noodles (see p87). stunning views of Patong Bay, this Mediterranean- and Thai-inspired 2 Boathouse eatery is popular for cocktails and Wine and Grill tapas. In-house jazz musicians, as well as global DJs, entertain diners This stylish seaside restaurant from 10pm (see p87). features a huge wine cellar with more than 800 labels. The excellent 5 Thong Dee Brasserie French and Thai fusion cuisine A top-quality and well-priced competes with classic wine and grill restaurant serving international and favorites, such as prime meat and chops (see p87). Thai cuisine. The Khi Mao spaghetti is a 3 On the Rock creative fusion of Thai Diners could not be closer and Italian, whilst the to the sea at this highly acclaimed Australian tenderloin restaurant, which is part of the is a real treat (see p87). Marina Phuket Resort. Much of the attraction is the ambience created 6 La Trattoria by the views offered thanks to the This excellent, eatery’s position on Karon Beach. award-winning Italian Getting a beachfront table, partic- restaurant at Dusit Thani ularly for sunset, often requires a Laguna Phuket, a luxury hotel (see p112), serves authentic homemade pastas and other classics from this culinary country. The eatery is set in a stylish area in lush tropical gardens, with fine, Italianate interiors (see p97). Entrance to La Trattoria
Restaurants ❮❮ 67 7 Kra Jok See TOP 10 THAI DISHES Tucked into an 18th-century Sino-Portuguese shop house in Phuket Town, this charming restau- rant, with exposed wooden beams and candlelit tables, serves delicious traditional Thai cuisine. However, the night really begins after dessert, when the music is cranked up for one of Kra Jok See’s legendary dance parties. Reservations are recommended (see p86). 8 Baan Rim Pa Khao niaw mamuang dessert Perched on a cliff above Kalim and Patong bays, Baan Rim Pa serves 1 Tom Yum Gung royal Thai cuisine, once found only in Simmered in a clear broth, this hot and the kingdom’s palaces. The emphasis sour prawn soup introduces a world of in this cooking is on precise presen- exhilarating new flavors. tation and color, so it requires special 2 Phat Thai training for chefs (see p87). An iconic Thai street food, this features stir-fried rice noodles, eggs, fish sauce, Baan Rim Pa’s dramatic setting tamarind juice, and more. 3 Phat Kraprao 9 Sala Bua This spicy, flavorful stir-fry is made Located at Impiana Cabana with chili and basil leaves, and is often Resort (see p113), this beachfront served with rice and a fried egg. restaurant features Thai and Pacific- 4 Gaeng Kiaw Wan Rim fusion cuisine. The Australian A Thai green curry, this is usually fire-roasted Chateaubriand is cooked with chicken or beef, and recommended (see p87). can be spicy and a little sweet. 5 Gai Phat Met Mamuang 0 Kopitiam by Wilai Chicken stir-fried with cashew nuts Serving hokkien mee (Hokkien is a popular Thai dish, especially in fried noodles), a Phuket specialty, tourist areas. this colorful eatery is the younger 6 Somtam sibling of the perinnially popular A spicy salad made from shredded Wilai restaurant. The space has been unripened papaya, somtam is often designed like a Chinese shop house. eaten with sticky rice. Other specialties include phat thai 7 Tom Kha Gai and southern Thai curries (see p86). Made with coconut milk, galangal, lemongrass, and chicken, this is a delicious hot soup. 8 Khao Phat A simple dish made of Thai fried rice, khao phat is often served with cucumber and sweet chili sauce. 9 Por Pia These Thai spring rolls, usually fried, are often stuffed with vegetables, noodles, and pork or shrimp. 10 Khao Niaw Mamuang Made with succulent fresh mango and sticky rice, this dish is drizzled with a sweet coconut cream sauce. For a key to restaurant price ranges see p87
68 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Markets and Shopping Areas 1 Jungceylon 5 Naka Weekend Market MAP P2 • Open May–Oct: This large, openair bazaar 11am–10pm daily; Nov–Apr: 11am– (see p12) sells soaps, candles, 11pm daily • www.jungceylon.com sculpture, beachwear, flipflops, used shoes, and almost anything Anchored by a department store and else you can imagine. It also has a French supermarket, Jungceylon – dozens of stands selling Thai food. a massive international mall in Patong – has over 300 shops selling 6 Turtle Village everything from sports clothes to Shopping Centre perfumes and luxury cosmetics. MAP B2 • Open 9am–10pm daily This upscale shopping center in Mai Khao gives northern Phuket shop pers a trendy place to buy unique Thai souvenirs. Turtle Village offers luxurious Jim Thompson silk, art work, jewelry, pearls, and more. Exterior space at Jungceylon 7 Kata Plaza MAP H4 2 Central Festival Phuket MAP J3 • Open 10:30am– Head here for watches, sunglasses, 10pm daily and beachwear, as well as row after Central, Thailand’s top retailer, runs row of quality Tshirts. Bargaining is the biggest and best mall on the always possible, and sometimes even island. As well as the department expected. It’s best visited at night; store, there are over 120 outlets, daytime here can be insufferably hot. good restaurants and cinemas, and Ghostinium (see p61) for the kids. 8 Phuket Town Night Market 3 Thalong and Dibuk Roads MAP P5 MAP P5 These streets in old Phuket Town offer many wonderful shops tucked With lower prices than in Patong, inside historical buildings selling Kata, and Karon, the night market Chinese embroidery, antiques, wooden on Thalang Road, in Phuket Town, figurines, and products from Laos, offers a similar selection of Tshirts, Cambodia, and Myanmar. fishermen’s pants, and wood carvings, as well as secondhand clothes and Thai music albums. 4 Phromthep Cape Market The best souvenirs from this popular viewpoint might be your own photos, but you’ll also find a wide range of handicrafts and original art work in the cape’s outdoor markets. Arrive in the late afternoon, before the crowds start pouring in (see p27).
Markets and Shopping Areas ❮❮ 69 Patong night market’s food stalls TOP 10 EXOTIC FRUITS IN PHUKET 1 Mangosteen 9 Patong Night Market The thick, red skin of this fruit (mang At sundown, vendors through khut) encloses sweet, slightly tart, and out Phuket set up makeshift tables creamy white segments inside. and tents to peddle everything from 2 Mango handicrafts to DVDs. Patong’s night No Thai holiday is complete without market in particular turns the entire trying sweet mango (ma muang) town into one big, sprawling night with sticky rice. bazaar (see pp18–19). 3 Lychee A major Thai export, the lychee (lin jee) 0 Plaza Surin has a thin, hard skin that encloses a MAP A6 • Open 9am–8pm thick layer of sweet flesh surrounding daily a small seed. For highend boutiques, visit Plaza 4 Longan Surin’s 12 stores, which sell unique Covered with a crisp skin, this fruit items, such as Thai furnishings, (lam yai) has sweet flesh that original artwork, natural spa resembles that of a lychee. products, and cuttingedge audio 5 Dragon Fruit visual goods. The upscale Silk (see This wonderful pink fruit (geow p66), is a restaurant and bar mangon) is shaped like a flower and serving delicious Thai cuisine. has light, sweet, and crunchy flesh. 6 Durian Phuket Town’s lively night market The world’s smelliest fruit, durian is not permitted inside some hotels. The creamy yellow flesh inside the spiky shell is considered an acquired taste. 7 Papaya This is a staple fruit in the Thai diet. Try the spicy green papaya salad (som tam) for a fiery experience. 8 Pomelo Somewhat like an Asian grapefruit, this citrus fruit (som oh) features in the excellent Thai salad yam som oh. 9 Rambutan A very interesting-looking fruit, the rambutan (ngo) features a hairy red exterior covering soft, sweet, oval-shaped flesh. 10 Rose Apple This decorative bell-shaped fruit (chompoo) has glossy pink skin, with crisp, juicy, and acidic flesh inside. Fragrant, sweet dragon fruit
70 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Souvenirs Interior of Chan’s Antique House 4 Local Crafts OTOP Shopping 1 Antiques Paradise: MAP N2; Rat U Thit Chan’s Antique House: MAP 200 Pee Road, Kathu, Phuket J2; 99/42, Moo 5, Chalermprakiat, Revenues from sales are Ratchakan Thi 9 Road; www.chans- passed directly to the crafts antique.com people, so the market pro The best places for genuine antiques vides local and rural artisans are Soul of Asia (see p95), an art with a better income. gallery housed in two old Chinese shops, and upscale Chan’s Antique 5 Religious Amulets House, which offers Phuket’s largest MAP P5 collection of art and antiques. The best selection of religious items is found in 2 Seashells the Amulet Market in the The best place to find rare center of old Phuket Town. seashell specimens, or handicrafts While mainly Buddhist, made of seashells, is the Phuket Taoist and animist pieces Seashell Museum (see p42). The are also on offer, and are Phromthep Cape market (see p68) taken seriously by aficio also offers a great selection. nados; rare and, supposedly, powerful pieces can fetch 3 Bespoke Clothing prices upwards of B100,000. Phuket’s bespoke tailors are commonly found in Patong, Kata, 6 Original Artwork and Karon beaches. Don’t wait until Artists sell original paintings the end of your trip; several fittings and reproductions at streetside are needed. They can also copy any galleries throughout Phuket. The garment you bring to the shop. Pay quality varies, and the costs are attention to the fabric quality used. always negotiable. Vibrant Thai silk cushions 7 Thai Silk Jim Thompson: www.jim thompson.com Thai silk is not as fine as the Chinese variety, but it is lustrous and hangs well in clothing. The best source is Jim Thompson, named for the American tycoon who revived, and later epitomized, the Thai silk industry. There are six branches on Phuket, including one at the airport.
Souvenirs ❮❮ 71 8 Traditional Thai TOP 10 BARGAINING TIPS Furniture Market traders, Phuket MAP J3 • Island Furniture: 90/4 Moo 1 Have fun 2, Chao Fah West Road • 07626 3707 Approach your shopping experience • www.islandfurniture-phuket.com lightheartedly – you’ll enjoy yourself Furniture made of crushed bamboo, all the more. recovered teak wood, rattan, water 2 Smile hyacinth, and more can be found in A smile goes a long way with many shops. Island Furniture can local salespeople. recreate pieces from sketches or 3 Don’t Lose Your Head from photographs. Don’t let your negotiations get too serious, and never raise your voice – 9 Batik Cloth it’s taboo in Thailand. Although an Indonesian craft, 4 Be Patient Phuket artisans are now using this Don’t buy something from the first wax-resist dyeing technique and stall you visit. In Phuket, you’ll almost incorporating Thai artistic motifs. always see it again. Cloth and items made from it are 5 Compare Prices easy to find in boutiques and night Get price quotes from different markets. Look for the government- vendors selling the same goods; sponsored OTOP brand pieces. occasionally one vendor’s prices are much lower than the others. Colorful Thai Batik cloth for sale 6 Buy In Bulk Sellers often reduce their prices 0 Pearls substantially if you buy more than MAP K1 • Phuket Pearl Factory: one item. 58/2 Moo 1, Tambon Kohkaew • 7 Politely Ask For Discounts 07623 8002 • www.phuketpearl.com The initial asking price is often about White, black, or cream pearls, twice as high as the seller’s final produced on local pearl farms, can settling price. be found in Phuket’s markets. You 8 Walk Away can see how pearls are cultured and The classic strategy is to politely say extracted at Naka Noi island, off the “No, thank you,” and walk away. The northeastern coast. vendor will often stop you and accept the price you offered. Farmed pearls being selected 9 Use Your Head Avoid too-good-to-be-true prices, especially for expensive items such as gemstones or antiques. 10 Currency Exchange Memorize your exchange rate so you can quickly calculate the cost in your home currency.
72 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Phuket for Free those with their own transport can seek more isolated spots above Yanui Beach, a short distance north of the cape (see p48). 4 Wat Chalong Phuket’s largest and most popular temple, located in the island’s southeast, attracts both visitors and the Buddhist devout. Celebrating the Vegetarian Festival Located in the base of the Grand 1 Festivals and Pagoda, the murals depicting events Sporting Events in the life of the Buddha are a highlight (see pp16–17). It seems there’s always some sort 5 Monkey Hill of festival or sporting event taking Just to the east of place on the island (see pp74–5), and most of them are free, Phuket town, Monkey Hill, whether it’s to watch and join also known as Khao To Sae, in the goings on, or to cheer offers excellent viewpoints, on the participants, such as a Taoist shrine, and a at the Vegetarian Festival. population of macaques 2 Bangla Road who are quite used to being at Night offered food. They are great fun to watch, but afford them The main drag of Patong the respect you would any Beach comes alive in a wild animal. The hill is blaze of neon and raucous also popular with fitness music after dark. Since many Macaque, enthusiasts – the road is of the bars are open-air, it’s Monkey Hill closed to vehicular traffic easy to soak up the buzz and after 5pm, making it ideal people-watch in comfort (see p62). for a sunset run. There’s a small fitness park as well (see p13). 3 Phromthep Cape Sunset At the southernmost tip of the 6 Karon Viewpoint island, narrow Phromthep Cape juts Located up in the hills south into the sea, and provides a spec- of Kata Beach, Karon Viewpoint tacular view at sunset. There’s a has superb views over both Kata lighthouse on the cape with a small beaches and Karon. Several shaded museum (free admission). The cape pavilions provide great spots for a picnic (see p29). is popular with group tours, and Sunset vistas from Karon Viewpoint
Phuket for Free ❮❮ 73 7 Buddhist Meditation TOP 10 BUDGET TIPS Classes Shoes on sale in a street market MAP J4 • 69/509 Soi Chaofah 5, 1 Buy a local SIM card for your phone Chalong • 08727 97655 • Classes: or tablet. These are available from 11am Tue, 7pm Thu • www.phuket- shops selling phones as well as most meditation.com convenience stores. Data speeds are A free introductory lecture and class quite good. in the practice of Buddhist meditation 2 Charming as they look, avoid using is offered by the Phuket Meditation tuk-tuks, which tend to take you to Center. Longer courses and retreats stores run by the driver’s friends or are also available. family. Use metered taxis, or rent a car or motor scooter. 8 Big Buddha 3 The cheapest beach resort Clad in gleaming white marble, accommodation on the island is to this 148-ft- (45-m-) tall statue rests be found in the Kata Beach hostels. atop a hill near Wat Chalong and 4 Eat in shopping-mall food courts. commands panoramic views of the These are just above street stall price, island. It cost over 100 million Baht but offer air-conditioned comfort. to construct, financed by donations 5 Use budget airlines (Air Asia, Thai from the faithful (see p82). Smile) when flying in from Bangkok or elsewhere in the region. Opulent interior of a Chinese shrine 6 Try Airbnb rentals for upscale accommodations at a much cheaper 9 Phuket Town rate than the resorts. Chinese Shrines 7 Bargaining is appropriate for any non-food item in a street market. The faiths of Taoism, Mahayana Start with half the vendor’s stated Buddhism, and Confucianism have price and keep smiling. a vast pantheon of deities and spirits, 8 Imported alcoholic drinks are taxed to which these shrines pay homage. up to 300 per cent here, but the local Visitors are welcome, but should beers (Singha, Leo, Chang) are good, remove shoes before entering and as is the rum – try SangSom with observe the decorum that these soda and a squeeze of lime. sacred places deserve (see pp46–7). 9 Traditional massage parlors don’t offer the luxury found in upmarket 0 Khao Rang Fitness Park spas, but these ubiquitous shops Located just north of Phuket provide a good body or foot massage Town, and famous for its viewpoints at a reasonable price. and good restaurants, Rang Hill 10 Look for shops displaying a “VAT (see p13) also offers a free outdoor refund for tourists” sign, and claim fitness park with a variety of exercise the 7 per cent tax back on your devices such as inclined planes for purchases when you leave Thailand. sit-ups. The walk up to the park is a good warm-up.
74 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Fairs and Festivals 1 Chinese New Year 4 Phuket Food and Late Jan/early Feb Music Festival Celebrated with firecrackers, Feb/Mar • MAP B5 • www. crashing cymbals, and lagunaphuket.com colorful costumes, the This popular festival is held at Chinese New Year marks the Laguna complex of hotels the beginning of a new lunar and villas. Attracting a huge year, and is an auspicious audience, it has a varied day for the Chinese. The line up of musicians, with holiday is especially performances ranging important in Phuket Town, from jazz to country where people dress in music. Apart from the bright red costumes, and music, there are different numerous parades Bang Neo Shrine at food stalls and treats. and feasts are held. Chinese New Year 5Old Phuket Festival Songkran 2 Late Jan/early Feb Apr 13–15 The traditional Thai New Year Chinese opera, rickshaw rides, and a celebration turns the entire country Phuket Baba Light Show are a few of into one big water fight. Getting the highlights of this festival, which sprayed with water is considered coincides with the Chinese New Year. good luck, and many Thais visit The festival is held in Phuket Town temples to pay respect to Buddha on Thalang, Krabi, and Phuket roads. by sprinkling water on his statue. 3 Phuket Gay 6 Visakha Puja Pride Festival May Feb Thailand’s Buddhist temples overflow with merit-makers on this holy day Established in 1999, this festival marking the birth, enlightenment, includes four nights of wild parties and death of the Buddha – three and parades in Patong. With cabaret events that occurred on the same shows, fashion shows, and more, day in different years. At night, this annual event seeks to create a believers walk around the temples stronger gay, lesbian, bisexual, and in a candlelit procession. transgender community on Phuket. Dazzling street parade marking the Phuket Gay Pride Festival
Fairs and Festivals ❮❮ 75 7 Por Tor Festival TOP 10 SPORTING EVENTS Aug 1 Muay Thai During the annual “Hungry Ghosts” No visit here is complete without festival, offerings of special cakes, witnessing this martial art form. candles, and flowers are made to 2 The Bay Regatta deceased ancestors, who are Feb believed to revisit their earthly More relaxed than the King’s Cup, homes on this day. Chinese shrines these races are popular with visitors. serve as the center of the festival. 3 Phuket Bike Week Apr Lion dancer at the Por Tor Festival This festival involves music, parties, and awesome motorbikes. 8 Phuket Vegetarian 4 Phuket International Festival Cricket Sixes Tournament Apr Late Sept/early Oct • www.phuket This brings international cricketers vegetarian.com into competition in Karon. This nine-day festival serves to 5 Phuket International “purify” participants and bring them Rugby Tournament good health, but has nothing to do May with food. At Chinese shrines in The three-day tournament draws Phuket Town, fire walking, and teams from Australia and Asia. extreme acts of body piercing 6 Laguna Phuket and self-mortification take place. International Marathon Jun 9 Loy Krathong The marathon starts at Bang Tao Beach. Late Oct/early Nov 7 Cape Panwa Hotel Phuket Sins of the previous year float away, Race Week as Thais pay homage to the guardian Jul spirit of water. Small banana-leaf A week of parties and yacht races, this vessels are decorated with flowers festival attracts many participants. and candles. If a person’s boat floats, 8 Phuket Surfing Contest they will enjoy good luck for the year. Sept At Kata Beach, this contest lets surfers 0 Chao Ley Boat vie for more than B100,000 in prizes. Floating Festival 9 Laguna Phuket Triathalon Nov Nov A 1-mile (2-km) swim, 34-mile (55-km) At this festival, participants float cycle race, and 8-mile (13-km) run. ceremonial vessels hoping to receive 10 King’s Cup Regatta happiness and prosperity, and ward Dec off bad luck. Held in Chao Ley (sea The regatta began in 1987, to mark gypsy) villages, the festival also pays HM King Bhumibol’s 60th birthday. tribute to the Chao Ley’s ancestors. Surfer, Phuket Surfing Contest
76 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Day Trips Thai Muang Phang Nga 3 Ko Khai Nok Ao Luk MAP F3 Another great snorkeling destination, 4 4 this island has coral reefs hugging its coastline – the prime underwater Phang Nga 4 attraction. Brilliantly colored parrot Bay fish can often be spotted. The small swimming cove features white sand Kok Loi flanked by rocky headlands. Vendors sell fresh coconut water from huts. 402 4 Ko Yao Yai and Ko Yao Noi Suan Ko Yao Noi MAP F3 Maphrao These picturesque islands in Phang Nga Bay feature charming thatched Thalang Khlong Bon roof homes and rubber plantations, Ko Yao Yai interspersed with vast tracts of lush Phuket foliage. Most of the accommodations Patong Ao Bole are on Ko Yao Noi, the smaller of the two islands. You can hire a kayak from Phuket Andaman your hotel to explore the beautiful Town Sea Ko Phi Phi rock formations facing the island. Alcohol is generally not sold here, Rawai except within hotel premises. 0 km 20 Beachfront at Ko Yao Yai Island Ko Racha 0 miles 20 1 Ko Kaew MAP H6 A Buddha statue greets visitors to this small island, which is visible from Phromthep Cape. A replica footprint of the Buddha makes this a holy pilgrimage site for some monks. On the island’s far coast is another Buddhist shrine and chedi (stupa). 2 Ko Racha MAP E4 Made up of two islands, Ko Racha is a renowned diving and snorkeling site. Ko Racha Yai has a few bunga lows and restaurants, and a pretty beach. It’s a great place for star gazing. Smaller Ko Racha Noi is less developed, with rockier shorelines. Ko Racha Yai beach
Day Trips ❮❮ 77 along the west coast. The beach has a quaint restaurant that serves seafood, Thai, and Western dishes. The island’s east coast is owned by Evason Resorts and is for the exclusive use of their guests. Breathtaking Ko Phi Phi 8 Ko Maphrao MAP L2 5 Ko Phi Phi MAP L4–M6 Boasting magnificent deserted A speedboat from Rassada Port can beaches and coves, Ko Maphrao (its whisk you to these islands in an hour, name means Coconut Island) is just after which you can visit Maya Bay on five minutes by boat from Phuket’s Koh Phi Phi Leh, Monkey Beach, and east coast. Popular activities here some of the smaller islets nearby. include swimming, snorkeling, and The trip includes a stop for lunch exploring the coastline’s mangrove on Ko Phi Phi Don. You’ll catch an forests by boat. There’s only one astonishing sunset from the stern on hotel, but the island also offers your way back to Phuket for dinner. homestays with local families. 6 Ko Rang Yai Ko Tapu limestone pillar MAP L1 9 Ko Khao Phing Kan Home to the Phuket Pearl Farm, this Ever since The Man with the private island cultivates three types Golden Gun was filmed here, few of pearls for export. Ko Rang Yai also people have referred to this island offers outdoor activities, including as Ko Phing Kan (see p36). Now camping, mini-golf, and an air-gun widely known as James Bond Island, shooting range. Visitors can watch it is one of Phuket’s most popular demonstrations on how pearls are day trips. The famous limestone cultured, harvested, and turned into rock called Ko Tapu, or Nail Island, jewelry. The guides also explain how juts out of the sea nearby. to tell the difference between real and fake pearls. 0 Ko Hae MAP J6 7 Ko Bon Just 2 miles (3 km) off Phuket’s MAP J6 southeastern shore, Ko Hae, or Coral Island, is a pretty island surrounded A 15-minute boat ride from Rawai by colorful coral reefs. The island Beach, this small rocky island has two long sandy beaches – Long features a crescent-shaped beach Beach and Banana Beach. The most popular activity here is exploring the vast Staghorn coral reefs, located around 328 ft (100 m) offshore.
Phuket Area by Area White-sand beach on Koh Miang in the Similan Islands National Park
The South 80 The North 90 Farther Afield 98
80 ❯❯ Phuket Area by Area The South Of the five million tourists who visit Phuket annually, the majority flock to Patong, Karon, and Kata on the island’s southwest coast. Here, they find an array of world-class restaurants, activities, and hotels, all set amid the tropical backdrop of rolling green hills and crystal-blue waters. But most of southern Phuket, with its busy beaches, seaside restaurants, open-air bazaars, and throbbing nightclubs, doesn’t aim to be an escape. Phuket Town, with its historical architecture, Chinese heritage, Statue at a Chinese and southern Thai cuisine, is almost wholly shrine, Phuket Town distinct from Phuket’s bustling tourist areas. AREA MAP OF THE SOUTH Kamala Phuket Top 10 Sights The Best of the Rest Fantasea see pp81–3 see p84 Kok Yang Places to Eat in Bars in South Phuket Phuket Town see p86 see p85 4233 4233Na Kha Le Places to Eat in South Phuket see p87 Cape Yom Ding Khok Makham Thalat Yai Rasada Tung Toong Patong Beach Bang Wad See Phuket Town Dam map, below Radar Hill 1,735ft Cape 4233 Laem Laem Mai Ngang Chalong Chan Tukkae Tin Khao Bo Raea Phuket Ao Ron Nui 4021 Bay Khao Krabok 1,467ft 4023 Andaman S e a Karon Wat Chalong Suan Cape Nam Bo Beach Karon Khok Sai Big Buddha Ao Makham Ko Taphao Chalong Yai Bay Kata Beach Panwa Buri Kata Noi Bay Khao Bang Khothi Cape Cape Panwa Phlu Ruan Khok San Khao Khat 1,043ft Cape Mum Nai Sai 4024 Y A OWARAT PHUKET Phuket Town Yuan SA TUN Cape Mum Nok Naiharn DIBUK WLAUTANCHGAPLHOONG PHANG NGA Naiharn Beach Lake Rawai KRABI THALANG RANONG PHANG NGA Phromthep Cape Ko Bon RASADA OK PHUKET TAKUA PA MONTRI 0 km 2 Ko Kaew BANGK 0 miles Yai 0 meters 400 TACLHINAGN CCHHAARNOAE- N 2 0 yards 400
The South ❮❮ 81 1 Phuket Vegetarian Festival Dating back to the 1820s, the Phuket Vegetarian Festival originated in Kathu after members of a Chinese opera contracted a fatal disease and sought ways to purify themselves and please the gods. For most visitors, the high- light of this entertaining nine-day event are the bizarre acts of piercing and self-mortification practiced by participants, who plunge spears through their cheeks, walk across burning-hot coals, and perform other gruesome displays of self- sacrifice (see p13). 2 Phuket Town Tranquil Patong Beach The capital of Phuket province, Phuket Town offers everything from from pulsating dance clubs to world-class beaches and scenery to cabaret shows and open-air bars, 100-year-old Straits Settlements along with the adult venues ablaze mansions and shop houses, tradi- in neon lights (see pp18–19). tional open-air markets and shops, as well as the vividly hued Chinese 4 Naiharn Beach shrines built during the tin boom of A picturesque bay on Phuket’s the late 19th and early 20th cen- far southwestern coast, Naiharn (see turies. Walking tours are the best pp26–7) remains one of the island’s way to explore (see pp12–15). better-kept secrets. With just one beachfront resort, the landscape doesn’t feel at all encroached upon. Tall screw pines populate the area behind the beach, providing a buffer between the nearby Buddhist mon- astery and Naiharn Lake. Charming Naiharn Town is a short motorbike or car ride from the beach, but is well worth a visit for its coffee shops and art studios. Historic street in Phuket Town 5 Muay Thai Two venues in Patong host 3 Patong Beach regular bouts in which south Thai This area is more relaxed these fighters pummel one another with days, following the government clean- elbows, shins, knees, and fists. up campaign (see p83). There are Patong Boxing Stadium and Bangla fewer hawkers, and motorized water- Boxing Stadium (see p18) witness craft are only allowed in some areas, plenty of vicious knockouts. The but there is a scarcity of sunbeds. The music accompanying the fights island’s best dining can be found along sounds like something composed in the waterfront, with top restaurants a madhouse – a haunting windpipe, commanding impressive views. The tribal drums, and tiny finger cymbals. legendary nightlife in Patong needs Foreign fighters come to train at the little introduction. It runs the gamut Muay Thai gyms here, and they often test their mettle in the rings.
82 ❯❯ Phuket Area by Area with all eyes trained on the horizon. However, there is no such spectacle – the crowds are simply here to witness the end of the day, and nature’s show is indeed a spectacular one (see p27). Fireworks at Phuket Fantasea 8 Big Buddha MAP H4 • Open 6 Phuket Fantasea 8am–7:30pm daily MAP G1 • 99 M3 Kamala Beach Kathu • 07638 5000 • Open 5:30pm– This dramatic religious 11:30pm Fri–Wed • Adm • www. monument perched on top of phuket-fantasea.com Nakkerd Hill has become one of Phuket’s iconic landmarks and This lively theme park is enough like attracts hundreds of visitors each Disneyland for kids to love it, and day. The 148-ft- (45-m-) tall, cross- enough like Las Vegas for parents legged white marble Buddha makes to enjoy it too. It is packed with fun an awesome sight when viewed from activities, entertainment, and even sea level, and offers even greater shopping. The spectacular Fantasy appeal from the hilltop, from where of a Kingdom is the longest-running visitors can enjoy sweeping views live show in Asia. Before this dazzling and pleasant breezes. There’s also show, you can enjoy one of Asia’s the chance to enjoy a sunset dinner largest buffet dinners in the 4,000- at Nakkerd Sea View Restaurant. seat dining facility at the Golden Kinnaree restaurant. 9 Kata Beach Increasingly upscale, Kata 7 Phromthep Cape draws positive reviews for the way On clear nights, a west-facing in which it harmonizes its tropical hilltop on Phuket’s southern tip beauty with ever-growing crowds feels like a large public gathering in and infrastructure. Indeed, the beach anticipation of what could be a space here offers many of the same joys shuttle launch or a fireworks show, as Patong, such as parasailing and jet-skiing, yet it retains a decidedly more relaxed feel. At night, Kata has enough restaurants and nightlife to Phromthrep Cape’s magnificent view
The South ❮❮ 83 THE GREAT PHUKET CLEAN-UP EXPLORING PHUKET’S Phuket A crackdown on corruption was one of SOUTHWEST COAST Town the reasons the Thai military gave for seizing power in May 2014. Their first Patong major target was the island of Phuket. Illegal beachfront buildings were bull- 4233 dozed, taxi licenses enforced, jet-ski rentals curtailed, and the clutter of Karon Beach beach furniture removed. The reaction from visitors has been very favorable. Kata Beach 4233 Karon Viewpoint feel like it’s got a pulse, but it isn’t Naiharn Lake overbearing. With a wide selection of Naiharn Beach Phromthep Cape shopping, both on the beach and off, Yanui Beach it’s easy to see why Kata’s popularity endures (see pp28–9). MORNING Shrine in Wat Chalong After hiring a car, start your journey in Patong (see p81), 0 Wat Chalong the tourist center of the island. The island’s most famous Follow the road signs for Highway Buddhist temple is located about 4233 towards Karon, Kata, and 4 miles (6 km) south of Phuket Town. Phromthep Cape. This coastal Wat Chalong features a number of road takes you to the island’s brilliantly colored buildings, including southern tip. Make your first stop a glittering pagoda that was added at Karon Beach, one of Phuket’s to the complex in 2002. The temple largest tourist beaches. Buy a has long been important as, during coconut from a beach vendor an uprising of migrant tin workers in and enjoy the fresh, sweet water 1876, the local Siamese fled here for inside. Continuing south on the protection, where two monks offered road, you will pass the shop-lined them shelter and helped resolve the streets of Kata. Stop if something dispute peacefully. Today, many Thais catches your eye. After Kata Noi, visit the statues of Luang Pho Chaem the road starts to ascend a steep and Luang Pho Chuang in the hill that winds its way up to the temple’s sermon hall to seek famous Karon Viewpoint, from their blessings (see pp16–17). where you can enjoy breathtaking views and take fabulous photo- graphs, so bring your camera. Continue to Naiharn, where a delicious seaside lunch awaits you under the shade of umbrellas and casuarina trees behind Naiharn Beach (see p81). AFTERNOON After a relaxed lunch, follow the road signs to Phromthep Cape. You’ll drive around Naiharn Lake, and then up and down a hilly, tree- lined road. At the bottom of the hill is Yanui Beach, a charming place to swim, snorkel, and relax under the trees. The road then continues to Phromthep Cape, with its magnificent views over the Andaman Sea. Just be sure to reverse course and reach Patong before it gets too dark. The journey takes about 45 minutes, and you don’t want to be on these roads at night. See map on p80
84 ❯❯ Phuket Area by Area The Best of the Rest 1 Phuket Orchid Farm 6 Ao Sane Beach MAP J4 • 67/1 Soi Suksan 1, This rugged, secluded little Viset Road, Chalong • 07628 0226 beach, not far from Naiharn, offers • Open 9am–5:30pm daily • www.phuketorchids.com great opportunities for snor keling and has a peaceful This heavenly nursery and vibe (see p27). greenhouse displays over 7 Paradise 1,500 types of orchid. Beach 2 Karon MAP G3 • Adm Viewpoint Not far from the often With breathtaking views crowded Patong Beach, of the island, this this delightful little stretch viewpoint is usually emanates tranquility with populated with vendors its soft sand and palm selling drinks, snacks, or Phuket trees; there is a coral photo opportunities with Orchid Farm reef not far off shore. exotic birds (see p29). 8 Yanui Beach 3 Chalong Bay This lovely cove (see p26) – an Rum Distillery ideal setting for kayaking, snorkeling, MAP J4 • Soi Palai, Chaofah Road, or reading a book under the shade of Chalong • 093 575 1119 • Open 10am– palm trees – is located just past the 8:30pm Mon–Sat (tours: 2–6pm, hourly) windmill visible from Naiharn Beach. The handcrafted white rum made 9 Emerald Beach here is distilled from sugar cane MAP G3 juice rather than molasses. The price of a tour includes a mojito. Thanks to its exposed location, this 4 Phuket Aquarium 1,640ft (500m) long beach, called Part of the Phuket Marine Hat Tri Tra in Thai and tucked away south of Patong, offers a quiet place Biological Center, this aquarium to hide out and work on your tan. introduces visitors to an enchanting 0 Rawai Beach underwater world with stingrays, MAP H6 sharks, and sea turtles (see p60). 5 Chinese Shrines A nonswimming beach, Rawai is The colorful shrines scattered known for its seafood restaurants along the beach. Speedboats and throughout the island play an longtail boats can be chartered at important role during the Phuket Rawai to visit some of the smaller Vegetarian Festival (see pp46–7). islands nearby. Long-tail boats at Rawai Beach
The South ❮❮ 85 Bars in South Phuket 1 Kangaroo Bar 7 Rock City MAP N2 • Bangla Road, Patong MAP N2 • 169 Rat-U-Thit 200 • Open early afternoon–2am daily Pee Rd • Open 8pm–2am daily This vibrant venue on Bangla Road A lively venue, Rock City hosts top plays thumping rock music, and has local and international bands playing a free barbeque about once a week. classic rock, heavy metal, grunge, and more. There is no cover charge 2 Molly Malone’s if you arrive before 11pm. MAP N2 • 94/1 Thaweewong Road, Patong • 07629 2771 • Open 8 Timber Hut 9am–2am daily MAP P5 • Yaowarat Road, Phuket Town • 07621 1839 • Open This spirited Irish pub features live 9:30pm–2am daily music every night. The house band here is considered 3 Roots Rock Reggae Bar one of the best on Phuket. There is MAP P3 • Nanai Road, a dance floor and seating upstairs. Patong • 087 271 4656 • Open 1pm–2am daily With regular barbeque and live music parties, this funky little reggae bar in Patong also features a small shop selling handmade jewelry, leather bags and belts, and more. 4 Artspace Café Caribbean stylings at After Beach Bar and Music Bar 9 After Beach Bar MAP H5 • 7 Ket Kwan Road, Kata MAP H5 • Highway 4233 • 081 • 090 156 0677• Open 11–1am daily 894 3750 • Open 9am–11pm daily A wooden structure with a laidback, This bar has a cool bohemian vibe, Caribbean vibe, After Beach Bar is with lots of plants and sculpture. located near Karon Viewpoint and It’s a friendly place with a loyal specializes in cocktails, seafood, following of visitors and locals. and spectacular sunset views. There’s great food and live music every night. 5 Yoonique Stone Music Café MAP H6 • 14/61–62 Sai Yuan Road, Rawai Beach • Open 6pm–2am daily An eclectic spot, this café features live music and regular theme nights. Jam sessions on Tuesdays and live bands on Fridays regularly draw large, enthusiastic crowds. 6 Aussie Bar 0 Banana Disco MAP N2 • Bangla Road, Patong MAP N2 • Beach Road, Patong • Open 9:30am–2am daily • 07634 0301 • Open 9pm–4am daily If you want to catch a live sports This is one of Phuket’s oldest discos. game, the Aussie Bar, which broad The highenergy house music played casts sporting events from all over into the early hours here draws the globe, is your best bet. hordes of latenight revelers. See map on p80
86 ❯❯ Phuket Area by Area Places to Eat in Phuket Town 1 Dibuk Grill and Bar 5 Laemthong Seafood BB MAP Q6 • Chana Charoen Serving authentic Thai and French Road • 07622 4349 • Open 11am– cuisine, and offering a full selection 10pm daily • B of fine wines, this elegant restaurant The oldest Chinese eatery on Phuket (see p14) is set inside a traditional is popular for its seafood and Chinese Straits Settlement house. cuisine, including oyster omelets, and Peking chicken. China Inn Café and Restaurant 6 Kra Jok See 2 China Inn Café MAP P5 • 26 Takua Pa Road, and Restaurant near Rasada Circle • 07621 7903 • Open 6pm–midnight Tue–Sun • B BB Served in a charming old shop The magnificent exterior of this shop house, the fixed-price dinner is house (see p15) gives way to a leafy followed by dancing and a cabaret courtyard, where diners can enjoy show. It’s a full-evening experience remarkable Thai and Western for which reservations are required. cuisine, and delightful Thai desserts. 7 Wilai Restaurant 3 Thungkha Kafae MAP P5 • Thalang Road MAP N4 • Top of Rang Hill • 07622 2875 • Open 7am–2pm • 07621 1500 • Open 11am–10pm daily • B daily • B A selection of pre-cooked curries Atop Rang Hill, this outdoor café and stir-fries is served at this enjoys lovely views and a reputation popular spot. Penang Moo (coconut for the best iced coffee on Phuket. milk curry with pork) is highly rated. 4 Kopitiam by Wilai 8 Ran Jee Nguat MAP P5 • 18 Thalang Road, MAP P5 • Corner of Yaowarat Phuket Town • 083 606 9776 • Open and Dibuk roads • Open 10am–8pm 11am–10pm daily • B daily • B With an old-fashioned feel and This Chinese-run restaurant serves photographs of Phuket in bygone one of the island’s best-loved local eras, Kopitiam is owned by the same specialties – kanom chine naam ya family that runs Wilai next door. phuket (Chinese noodles in a puréed fish and curry sauce). 9 Roti Chao Fa MAP N5 • Chao Fa Road • Open 6am–noon daily • B Delicious curries served with flat bread and exotic teas make this a popular choice for breakfast. 0 Anna’s Café MAP P5 • Rasada Road • 07621 0535 • Open 6pm–midnight Mon–Sat • BB This restaurant serves upscale Thai food family-style. The massaman (beef curry) and gaeng som (sour curry) are two favorite dishes here.
The South ❮❮ 87 Places to Eat in South Phuket 1 White Box Restaurant PRICE CATEGORIES MAP H2 • 247/5 Prabaramee For a three-course meal for two with half Road, Kalim Beach • 07634 6271 a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), • BBB taxes, and extra charges. The restaurant features both Thai B under B500 BB B500–1,000 and international dishes with a BBB over B1,000 setting adjacent to the Andaman Sea. 2 Thong Dee Brasserie 6 Sala Bua MAP J2 • Soi Bangthong MAP N1 • 41 Thaweewongse 110/25, Kathu • 07631 9323 • Open Road, 83150 Patong • 07634 0138 4–10pm Tue–Sun • BB • Open 6am–midnight daily • BBB A reasonably priced restaurant Imaginative East-West fusion dishes, offering Thai and international with a focus on seafood, served up cuisine. The Thai delicacies are from at a spacious and breezy beachfront different regions of the country. Do location (see p67). try the kaeng pod (spicy red curry). 7 Boathouse 3 Diavolo Restaurant Wine and Grill MAP G1 • Paresa Resort, 49 Moo 6, Layi-Nakalay Road, Kamala MAP H5 • 182, Koktanode Road, Beach • 07630 2000 • Open 8am– Kata Beach • 07633 0015 • Open 11pm daily • BBB 6:30am–11pm daily • BBB Generous à la carte breakfasts and Known for its spectacular wine list, Italian delicacies for lunch and this beachfront restaurant serves dinner are served here. French and Thai dégustation menus. 8 On the Rock MAP H4 • 47 Karon Road, Marina Phuket, Karon Beach • 07633 0625 • Open noon–10pm daily • BBB This beachside restaurant, specializing in Thai and international seafood, is open for lunch, as well as dinner. The interior of Diavolo Restaurant 9 La Gritta MAP N1 • Amari Coral 4 Baan Rim Pa Beach Resort, Patong Beach MAP H2 • 223 Prabaramee • 07634 0106 • Open 11am– Road, Kalim Beach • 07634 0879 midnight daily • BB • Open 1–11pm daily • BBB This restaurant is famed for its Royal In a quiet bayside setting, this Italian Thai Cuisine and views of Kalim Bay. restaurant specializes in gourmet pizzas and handmade pastas. 5 Kan Eang MAP J4 • 9/3 Chofa Road, 0 Silk Chalong Bay • 07638 1323 • Open MAP G1 • Andara Resort & for lunch & dinner daily • BB Villas, Kamala Beach • 07633 8777 On Phuket’s eastern coast, Kan Eang • Open 7am–10pm daily • BBB serves classic Chinese-Thai seafood. This restaurant is part of the Andara Resort, offering international cuisine coupled with a stunning view of the sea from Kamala Beach. See map on p80
90 ❯❯ Phuket Area by Area The North Virgin rain forest, mangroves, wildlife sanctuaries, and unspoiled golden-sand beaches where giant leatherback turtles return each year to lay their eggs – northern Phuket abounds in opportunities to connect with the area’s magnificent natural surroundings. Jungle trekking trails, a half-buried golden Buddha statue, and picturesque swimming coves comprise natural and historic wonders, while theme parks, golf courses, and tree-top canopies also attract many visitors. The beaches north of Kamala offer more privacy, tranquility, and access to nature for those who seek a little more space – and Wat Prathong less bustle – during their holiday on Phuket. AREA MAP OF THE NORTH Tha Chat Chai Tha Taling Top 10 Sights Mai Khao Beach Chan see pp91–3 3016 Dan Yit To Nong Places to Eat 402 see p97 Laem Bay Places to Shop Phrao Ba Kan see p95 Suan The Best of the Rest Maphrao see p94 Ao Tu Khun Khao Ban Bang Duk Outdoor Activities 875ft see p96 Andaman Mai Khao Mak Prok Laem Sea Khat 4031 Laem Sai Phuket Blue Canyon Ban Chathu Sirinat National Park Country Club Cape 4026 Muang Mai Ban Phara Ban Paw Sai Khru Bang Khanun 4027 Ao Kung Sakoo Nai Thon Khao Phra Thaeo Ko Khao Sai Khru Royal Forest and Raet 1,100ft Wildlife Reserve Gibbon Rehabilitation Project 4018 4031 402 4027 Na Sok Wat Prathong Bang Pae Nok Le 4030 Thalang Pa Khlok Ko Tha Li Phuan Phak Chit Bang Rong Bang Tao Bay Bay 402 Liphon Hua Han Ao Yabu Cherngtalay Cape 4025 Thalang National Cape Yamu Son Museum Bang Tao Ma Nik Tha Rua Laem Singh Surin Plaza Phuket Boat 0 km 2 Beach Lagoon 0 miles 2 Previous pages The iconic Big Buddha statue atop Nakkerd Hill
The North ❮❮ 91 Rows of glamorous yachts moored at the Phuket Boat Lagoon 1 Phuket Boat Lagoon lovely waterfalls, and a gibbon MAP K1 • 22/1 Moo 2 rehabilitation facility. Declared a Thepkasattri Road • 07623 9055 wildlife sanctuary in 1969, Khao Phra • www.phuketboatlagoon.com Thaeo contains an especially rare palm species, found only here and Luxury yachts from around the world called the whitebacked palm, which are moored in the lagoon and up was only identified in 1929. Animals scale marina here. Opened in 1994, include barking deer, gibbons, and the Phuket Boat Lagoon features flying foxes, as well as snakes and more than 150 units with restau wild pigs (see pp20–21). rants, retail outlets, and sport complexes. The Boat Lagoon Resort 4 Sirinat National Park has 300 guest rooms, exceptional The pristine shoreline along restaurants, tennis courts, swim Phuket’s northwestern coast is ming pools, and a Thai spa. protected by Thailand’s national park service. Every winter, massive sea 2 Wat Prathong turtles lay their eggs in the sand MAP C5 • Highway 402 here, while virgin mangrove forests • Open 8am–5:30pm daily can be found at the northern end of the park. A 2,625ft (800m) long The halfburied golden Buddha wooden walkway has been built over image here draws worshippers the mangroves and is a popular and curious tourists alike. Built scenic walk. The Sirinat National in the 1750s, Wat Prathong has Park protects the pristine Mai Khao, received many highprofile visitors, Nai Yang, and Nai Thon beaches, including King Rama V in 1909. The which are a world apart from the statue was most likely half buried raucous party beaches (see pp22–3). as a result of flooding. The reclining gilded Buddha is another popular attraction. The colorful temple complex also features a museum that houses assorted historical items, such as tinmining tools and Javanese daggers, among others. 3 Khao Phra Thaeo Coastline of the Sirinat National Park Royal Forest and Wildlife Reserve Home to numerous protected animal species, as well as rare and exotic plant life, this virgin rain forest has a number of jungle trekking trails, two
92 ❯❯ Phuket Area by Area 5 Laem Singh Beach Palm-fringed Bang Tao Beach MAP G1 7 Horseback Rides This beautiful, hidden beach, on Bang Tao Beach populated by lush palm trees and giant rocks, feels like a secret cove. MAP B6 • Open 9am– 5:30pm daily However, despite being hidden away • Adm from the road, and the fairly steep path required to reach it, Laem Singh Visitors can ride horses from the beach remains a popular destination Phuket Laguna Riding Club on the throughout the year and becomes beautiful golden sands of Phuket’s especially busy during high season. second-longest beach. The expe- The rocky areas in the water provide rience provides marvelous photo excellent snorkeling opportunities, opportunities, as well as being while the rustic wooden beach adventurous, as the horses walk, restaurants offer tree-shaded spots trot, or canter through the calm in which to enjoy fresh seafood. waters and past stunning scenery. Everyone is catered for – from 6 Thalang National regular riders to novices, who are Museum well looked after by experienced guides – and all equipment is provided. MAP D6 • Thalang • 07631 1025 • Open 8:30am–4pm daily • Adm • www.nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th In 1785, two Siamese women helped defend Phuket against an attack by Burmese soldiers (see pp40–41). For their bravery, they were honored with this museum, and the Heroines’ Monument (see p43). A large 9th- century statue of Vishnu, the Hindu god, stands in the museum’s main hallway, while other displays feature the island’s tin-mining history, its sea gypsy communities, and more. SEA TURTLES 8 Blue Canyon During the November to February Country Club breeding season, giant sea turtles, including the magnificent leatherback, MAP C3 • 165, Moo 1 Thepkasattri return to the northwestern beaches Road, Thalang • 07632 8088 • www. of Phuket – to the same place they bluecanyonclub.com were born – to lay their eggs. Mai Khao and Nai Yang beaches provide perfect Golf aficionados rave about Blue nesting sites where sea turtles can lay Canyon’s rolling fairways, towering their eggs and bury them in the sand trees, and exceptionally well-kept for protection until they hatch. greens. The two picturesque championship courses here, the Canyon and the Lakes, are premier golfing destinations. The Canyon Course has hosted the Johnnie Walker Classic three times, playing host to a number of acclaimed golfers. The 17th hole on the Canyon Course is considered one of the 500 best in the world, according to Golf Magazine. Non-golfers will enjoy the club’s spa and fine dining facilities.
The North ❮❮ 93 A DAY IN NORTHERN PHUKET 4027 402 Khao Phra Thaeo Royal Forest and Wildlife Reserve Gibbon Rehabilitation Project Bang Pae Waterfall 402 4027 Bang Wat Ton Sai Pae Prathong Waterfall MORNING 9 Mai Khao Beach Hire a private car for this itinerary Part of Sirinat National Park, if you don’t have a rented one, this 6-mile- (10-km-) long beach (see since the journey covers quite a p23) has undulating golden sand bit of ground. Also carry sturdy lined by palm trees and pines. shoes, swimwear, and a towel. Development in the area has been Start the day auspiciously by limited, resulting in resorts that truly making merit at Wat Prathong respect the surroundings. The sea (see p91), where local Buddhists can be rough in summer, but the revere the half-buried golden beach makes for an excellent scenic Buddha image. The temple is trek, and walkers often find them- located quite far inland, so it selves alone with the birds. isn’t as crowded as Wat Chalong. Continue eastward to the nearby 0 Gibbon Rehabilitation Khao Phra Thaeo Royal Forest Project and Wildlife Reserve (see p91), one of the last remaining habitats Established in 1992, this center for exotic animals on Phuket. seeks to rehabilitate captive white- Here, park your car near Bang handed gibbons and reintroduce Pae Waterfall (see p94) and eat at them into their natural habitat, while one of the restaurants near the striving to end their illegal use as car park. Better still, buy a take- tourist attractions and pets. You can away meal and enjoy a picnic in pay a small donation to adopt a the shade near the waterfall. gibbon that has been mistreated in captivity (see pp20–21). AFTERNOON Gibbons at the Rehabilitation Project A short walk from the Bang Pae Waterfall stands the small Gibbon Rehabilitation Project, where gibbons who have been ill-treated in captivity are gently reintro- duced into a wild habitat. After watching these fascinating creatures from the viewing platform, you can adopt a baby gibbon for a small amount of money and ensure that the animal continues to receive vital care. If you’re feeling energetic, hike the 5-mile- (8-km-) long jungle path to Ton Sai Waterfall. When it’s time for a bite to eat, visit the floating restaurant located in the coastal mangrove swamps, which are also a protected area. Return to your hotel by the early evening. See map on p90
94 ❯❯ Phuket Area by Area The Best of the Rest 1 Nai Thon Beach MAP A4 A sleepy little hideaway, this beach is usually free of large tourist crowds. The reefs are popular with divers. 2 Laguna Phuket Golf Club Water gushing at Bang Pae waterfall MAP B6 • 34 Moo 4, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay • 07632 4350 • www.lagunaphuket golf.com Voted one of the best resorts in Asia, this golf club features scenic lagoons and immaculate greens. 3 Cable Jungle 7 Bang Pae and Adventure Phuket Ton Sai Waterfalls MAP C5 • 232/17 Bansuaneramit, The two waterfalls in Khao Phra Moo 8, Srisoonthorn Road • 081977 Thaeo Royal Forest and Wildlife 4904 • Open 9am–6pm daily Reserve, linked by a hiking trail, are • www.cablejunglephuket.com picturesque destinations surrounded by beautiful jungle scenery (see p20). With 15 stations and a 3,937-ft- (1,200-m-) long zipline run, this is 8 Surin Beach a great treetop canopy adventure. MAP A6 4 Wat Mai Khao This beach houses some of Phuket’s MAP B3 top-end resorts such as The Chedi. The area’s wealth is reflected in the A serene and unadorned temple in a neighboring homes and restaurants. quiet forested area near Mai Khao village, Wat Mai Khao also has a bird 9 Splash Jungle sanctuary within its compound. Waterpark 5 Heroines’ Monument MAP B3 • 65 Moo 4, Mai Khao Soi 4, MAP C6 • Thepkasattri Road Mai Khao Beach • 07637 2111 • Open 10am–6pm daily • www.splashjungle Located at the Tha Rua roundabout, waterpark.com this monument is a tribute to the sisters who helped defend Phuket With thrilling rides, this theme park from invaders in the 18th century. is an ideal place to splash around. 6 Windsurfing in Bang Tao 0 Nai Yang Beach MAP B6 MAP B4 Bang Tao enjoys the reputation of A popular picnic destination for being one of Phuket’s best places locals, this tree-lined beach has to windsurf. Boards and sails can be restaurants that serve a selection rented from local resorts and shops. of delicious seafood. Sailing boats on Bang Tao beach
The North ❮❮ 95 Places to Shop 1 Fine 9 Design 7 Banyan Tree Gallery MAP A6 • Surin Plaza, 5/50 MAP B6 • Laguna Phuket Moo 3, Cherngtalay • 07624 1141 Resort, Bang Tao • 07636 2300 • www.banyantreegallery.com Enormous shells, vases, ceramic bowls, Thai-style teak wood rattan Showcasing indigenous handicrafts furniture, and original artwork are (home furnishings, apparel, candles, available at this upscale home jewelry) by artisans from around the products store at Plaza Surin. world, this gallery seeks to conserve traditional crafts and skills. 2 Jim Thompson MAP B6 • Canal Village, Laguna Phuket Resort, Bang Tao • 07630 4536 • www.barufashion.com The famed silk retail shop has a well- stocked outlet in this smart shopping center. Apart from silk, leather goods and ceramics can also be found here. 3 Red Coral MAP B2 • Turtle Village, Mai Khao Beach • 07631 4811 This boutique sells necklaces, photo frames, postcards, beach sandals, bags, and more. The unique seashell and pearl products make great gifts and souvenirs. 4 Lemongrass House Handicrafts at Banyan Tree Gallery MAP B5 • 10/2 M.1, T. Cherngtalay, A.Thalang • 07632 8 Soul of Asia 5501 • www.lemongrasshouse MAP B6 • 5/50 Moo 3, thailand.com Cherngtalay • 07627 1629 • www.soulofasia.com With some 90 aromas to choose Serious collectors of art will be from, the spa products sold here are delighted by this massive collection. among the best in Asia. Customers can even blend their own products. 9 Canal Village MAP B6 • Laguna Phuket 5 Lola Resort, Bang Tao • www.laguna MAP A6 • Surin Plaza, 5/50 phuket.com/canalvillage Moo 3, Cherngtalay • 07627 1141 An outdoor mall of 40 shops, offering clothing, jewelry, sports A sophisticated boutique, Lola offers equipment, and local products, high-end designer jewelry and chic plus restaurants and cafés. accessories, such as scarves, beaded bags, shoes, and clothing. 0 The Palace of Art MAP A6 • 103/3 Moo 4, 6 Heritage Collection Banbangjoe • 07627 3533 MAP B6 • 106/19–20 Bang Tao This showroom displays some of Beach Road, Cherngtalay • 07632 5818 the best examples of genuine Thai, Myanmar, and Cambodian fine art. Antique wood and bronze Buddha images from southeast Asia along with Chinese sculptures, imperial clothing, and furniture are part of the Heritage Collection. See map on p90
96 ❯❯ Phuket Area by Area Outdoor Activities Snorkelers enjoying Phuket’s crystal-clear waters 1 Snorkeling 6 Horseback Riding There are many opportunities The Phuket Laguna Riding to see beautiful underwater coral Club and Phuket Riding Club offer formations and colorful schools of horseback rides along the seashore fish in and around Phuket. In winter, at Bang Tao Beach (see p92). the clear waters off Surin, Nai Yang, and Nai Thon make for great dives. 7 Ziplining Soar through the jungle canopy 2 Canoeing safely harnessed and clipped to a Go canoeing in the incredible cable that runs from one station to mangrove forests and sea caves the next. It’s an adrenaline rush, but along Phuket’s northeastern and take the time to focus on the beauty northwestern coasts. of the surroundings as well (see p21). 3 Golfing 8 Cycling MAP B6 A bicycle tour is a great way to Some of Phuket’s best golf courses experience northern Phuket’s back can be found in the north. Mission roads and trails. Popular trips involve Hills, Blue Canyon, and Laguna cruising through stunning scenery Phuket offer picturesque, challenging, past villages and plantations in the and well-maintained courses. island’s northeast. Cycling trips can last either half a day, a full day, or 4 Trekking overnight (see p55). Northern Phuket’s most scenic trek covers 4 miles (6 km) of jungle 9 Camping trails in the Khao Phra Thaeo Royal MAP B3 Forest and Wildlife Reserve. Guides Visitors can pitch a tent on parts of can be hired at the visitor center Nai Yang and Mai Khao beaches in near Bang Pae Waterfall (see p94). the Sirinat National Park. The park’s visitor center, at the southern end of 5 Kite Surfing Mai Khao, rents out camping gear. With good year-round winds, Phuket’s west coast is ideal for kite- 0 Swimming surfing enthusiasts. Nai Yang Beach, Excellent swimming beaches which is free of speedboats and jet- stretch from Kamala to Mai Khao, skis, has a popular kite school that on Phuket’s northwestern coast. offers classes for beginners. From Be cautious during the rainy season, December to March, the school is however, as undertows and currents based at Chalong Bay (see p56). can be strong. Look out for red flags.
The North ❮❮ 97 Places to Eat 1 Sala Phuket PRICE CATEGORIES MAP B2 • 333 Moo 3, Mai Khao For a three-course meal for two with half Beach • 07633 8888 • BBB a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes, and extra charges. This resort’s beachfront restaurant offers fresh seafood, traditional Thai B under B500 BB B500–1,000 delicacies, and international fare. BBB over B1,000 2 Siam Supper Club 7 Kin Dee Restaurant MAP B5 • Tinlay Place, MAP B2 • 71/6 Moo 5, Mai Laguna Phuket, Cherngtalay • Khao Beach • 082 814 8482 • BB 07627 0936 • BB Try the crabmeat stir fried with curry powder at this seafood restaurant. This has the feel of a gentlemen’s club. The Thai and European foods 8 Black Ginger are often innovative, and always excel MAP B6 • Slate Resort Nai Yang lent. The bar is an expat hangout. Beach • 07632 7006 • BBB Situated in a Thai style pavilion on a 3 Jakajan Seafood lake within the upscale Slate Resort, Restaurant this place has a lovely ambience and serves superb Thai cuisine. MAP B2 • Soi 5 Mae Khao 6 • 81891 3731• B Fresh seafood is served up in a casual, Thaistyle environment at Jakajan. 4 Tatonka 360° Restaurant at twilight Restaurant 9 360° Restaurant MAP B6 • 382/19 Moo 1, 34 MAP B6 • The Pavilions Phuket, Lagoon Road Cherngtalay 31/1 Moo 6, Cherngtalay • 07631 • 07632 4349 • BB 7600 • BBB On a hilltop at The Pavilions Phuket, Influenced by Mediterranean, this romantic eatery is known for its Asian, and Latino cuisines, tuna tartar, smoked pork back ribs, the fusion fare receives high and dark chocolate fondue. praise. Try the sashimi spring rolls and Peking duck pizza. 5 La Trattoria MAP B6 • Dusit Thani Laguna • 390 Moo1, Srisoontorn Road, Cherngtalay • 07636 2999 • BBB Located in an elegant resort, this retaurant specializes in Italian cuisine, and has good options for vegetarians. The locally caught sea bass and tiger prawns are particularly good. 6 Toto Italian Restaurant 0 Cucina MAP B6 • Near Laguna Phuket MAP B2 • JW Marriott, 231 Resort entrance • 07627 1430 • BB Moo 3, Mai Khao Beach • 07633 8000 • BBB Traditional Italian dishes, including a wide range of homemade pastas, An awardwinning Italian restaurant fresh seafood, meats, and good at Mai Khao Beach, this trattoria woodfired pizzas, make this serves authentic rustic cuisine restaurant a popular choice. in an unbeatable ambience. See map on p90
98 ❯❯ Phuket Area by Area Farther Afield Try to imagine the perfect tropical landscape, and you will probably conjure up almost exactly the scenery that surrounds Phuket – unspoiled white-sand beaches, enchanting underwater worlds, ancient rain forests, and dramatic limestone cliffs. There are also hundreds of exotic birds, rare plants and flowers, native animals, colorful coral reefs, and awe-inspiring vistas. Easily accessible from Phuket as day trips, southern Thailand’s natural wonders draw millions Junk in Phang Nga Bay of visitors each year, but at their farthest reaches – when trekking on jungle trails, immersed in the azure sea, kayaking in cave grottoes, or boating through sparsely populated bays – you’ll often find yourself alone. AREA MAP OF FARTHER AFIELD 60 miles (100 km) Takua Pa Khao Sok Top 10 Sights National Park see pp99–101 401 Places to Eat on Ko Phi Phi Thung Biri see p103 4 Sok 44 The Best of the Rest Similan Islands Hat Bang see p102 45 miles (72 km) 415Sak Khao Lak Kapong Bang Hoi Thap Lamu Ban Thung Thap Put Tonsai Village 0 meters 200 Maphrao Ao Luk Tonsai 0 yards 200 Village Phang Nga Thai Muang Ko Panyee Natai Beach Kok Loi Khlong Hin Andaman Phang Nga Sea Bay Phuket Ko Yao Noi 4Krabi 4 Thalang Khlong Krabi Nuea Khlong Phuket Bon Ban Ao Ko Yao Khlong Yai Nang Thom Patong Phuket Town Ko Sriboya Laem Kruat 402 King Cruiser Wreck Dive Rawai See Tonsai Village map, Ko Jum Ko Ko Hae above Ko Phi Phi Don Klang 0 km 20 0 miles 20 Ko Phi Phi Leh Lanta Noi
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