Growing Up In A Nyonya Kitchen

3 tablespoons water Popiah Goreng Fried Popiah Given my mother’s tendency to always make more food than our guests could eat, we never failed to have extra filling the nextmakes 20 servings Use the same ingredients and cooking 12 cups method for popiah filling (page 146); day after aor the prepared leftover additional ingredients 3 tablespoons cornflour peanut oil * Chilli popiah party.cshauuckea By then, (page 160) Sweet however, flour sauce 1. Combine the cornflour and water to form a slurry 4Pe.a n Huteat a bDoirlua (ntAdcs)hian the freshor paste. iomvpeanrt sor popiah skin2. Wrap the popiah the same way you would for a fresh wa noicke and one, except make it smaller. Spread the slurry along the afladvdour. edges of the popiah skin and seal the edges securely. eItn aolsuogh oil hhtoaigs hf aill up from Joo Chiat3. Repeat to make several popiah. Arrange them on

Popiah Goreng Fried Popiah Given my mother’s tendency to always make more food than our guests could eat, we never failed to have extra filling the nexte the same ingredients and cooking 12 cups ver additional ingredients 3 tablespoons cornflour peanut day after a oil * Chilli popiah party.schauuckea By then, (page 160) Sweet however, flour sauce * the fresh 4Pe.a n Huteat a would fopr ao frepshiah skin Dboirlua (ntAdcs)hian iomvpeanrt sor wa noicke and e slurry along the faladvdour. from Joo ChiatIetn aolsuogh oil hhtoiags hf aill up

Paper-wrapped Fried Chicken My mother made this for every reunion dinner on the eve of Chinese New Year. They were also popular at the buffet parties. Individual chickenBecause deep-frying paper-wrapped chicken can get pretty stressful when I have a lot parts were sealed in aof other dishes to manage in my small kitchen, I have experimented with a different method parchmentwhich I first encountered in a dimsum restaurant in San Francisco’s Chinatown. I substitute the paper epnvaeplopeers wenithv aelulmoipnuem a tnin dfo ifl ranide dw raipn each chicken part on a square sheet, a big wok of hot oil. Whileedges folded tightly to seal in the juices. I place all the most recipes wouldpackets on a baking sheet and broil them for about half an hour. They taste just as good and recommendcome out less greasy. discarding the paper envelopes before serving, my mother left them intact. The family members would then play a guessing game of which

155 makes 12 servings 2 1 kg or 2¼ pounds chicken, cut into teaspoons pieces (alternatively, chicken wings or thighs) light soy 5 cm or 2 inches ginger knob, sauce skinned and julienned ff2tsodor4eeieylar setiaspnopm- g6oeo cnusps 6 sprigs spring onions, chopped into 3.75 cm or 1½ inch strips 2 t*e Paespaonounts 2 teaspoons salt ooyisl t(eorf an 2 teaspoons sugar sAasuicaen ½ teaspoon white pepper powder brand) 1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine imparts a nice 1. Season the chicken with all the ingredients above. flavour. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. aItlt aelrsnoate 2. About half an hour before frying or broiling, leave a1b—mahsr.m ae bho ts oiirPhlgkioonrhedieglhereat the chicken out of the refrigerator. opvoeinnt aonnd d2hlpeifseesoua.seiia egpri cgt secdWhahrcteeb ei (eral 2eaoepal0lstf-yp 0C 3. Wrap each piece of chicken in parchment paper ocfrhry i4cn0kg.0en envelope (seal by stapling or with a slurry or paste made du3.es ig nPrglea eacse from cornflour and some water). Fmetsp5cticcupsfWeptgtwc4mwatpoffabttrmi4taonsooooihhhhhraiqhohhdn.nlna)nnaiilin5.g d irau aeeeaii .lrimrcfeeeee uo riiitgktodd t ndadlh uey aacccacccYtmykPhhn 3ikaeiutoc lpdt utakkksee.ellpbl noa ol eri0rses lehlolgvsi.palttt sseeeryyarvugeoneedr lhfoeieh ceotnnngi.yocerfu.snecoee diekvtrnlmesdoee dan 4. Heat half a wok of oil.When oil is glistening, at about 180 to 220 degrees C or 355 to 425 degrees F, add a few envelopes, Fry for about 10 to 15 minutes until the chicken is fully cooked. Set aside and drain excess oil. Continue frying the remaining envelopes.

155 makes 12 servings 2 teaspoons 1 kg or 2¼ pounds chicken, cut into light soy pieces (alternatively, chicken sauce wings or thighs) 2tfdfsoor4eeieylar setiaspnoopm- gi6ole,o cnusps t2*e Paespppaeroneaoufnnetusrta boliyl 5 cm or 2 inches ginger knob, ooyisl t(*eorf an skinned and julienned sAasuicaen brand) 6 sprigs spring onions, chopped imparts a into 3.75 cm or 1½ inch strips nice flavour. 2 teaspoons salt aItlt aelrsnoate 2 teaspoons sugar ½ teaspoon white pepper powder bam1—ashr.m ae bho ts oiirPhlgkioonrhedieglhereat 1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine opvoeinnt aonnd dlh2peiesfesoua.sieia egpri cgt secdWhahrcteeb ei (eral 2eaoepal0lstf-yp 0C 1. Season the chicken with all the ingredients above. ocfrhry i4cn0kg.0en Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. du3.es ig nPrglea eacse pcfscpiocspum54efgemt4tfFwttaatattpwrWmtcobisnooohihrhhohaqiohhhnd.nnla)nnaiilin.5g d irau aeeeiai .lirmrcfeeeee uo riiitgktodd t ndadlh uey aacccacccYtmykPhnh 3ikaeiucot lpdt utakkkse.eellpbl noa ol eri0rses lehlolgvsi.palttt sseeeryyarvugeoneedr lhfoeieh ceotnnngi.yocerfu.snecoee diekvtrnlmesdoee dan 2. About half an hour before frying or broiling, leave the chicken out of the refrigerator. 3. Wrap each piece of chicken in parchment paper envelope (seal by stapling or with a slurry or paste made from cornflour and some water). 4. Heat half a wok of oil.When oil is glistening, at about 180 to 220 degrees C or 355 to 425 degrees F, add a few envelopes, Fry for about 10 to 15 minutes until the chicken is fully cooked. Set aside and drain excess oil. Continue frying the remaining envelopes.



157 Chicken Drumsticks These drumsticks are an all-time family favourite. Nowadays, I describe them as chicken lollipops. My mother took the time to fashion the chicken drumettes (the meaty first joint of the wing, also called wingsticks) into ‘meaty balls on bone sticks’, hence looking very much like drum mallets … or lollipops in the eyes of my daughter Lmi1z.a2zk ekiseg 1 .o2 rs e2r¾vin pgsounds chicken wings 2 (or drumettes only if you want tablespoons to fashion them) light soy 1 egg white, optional sauce 2 tablespoons cornflour 2 teaspoons sugar 2 teaspoons 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon white pepper powder sesame oil 2 tablespoons oyster sauce 2 teaspoons 1. Clean the chicken drumettes. Chinese 2. To fashion the drumettes into lollipops, use a paring r*i cPee awninuet knife and slice around the narrow tip of each drumette to Pfd4foibaomrl l ritaarnelao pivdi(nn cAoa6g derufis nctl)iroasug.unprs detach the skin from the bone. Scrape the skin and meat towards the broader tip of the drumette. Invert the skin 5oItf. ao liDsl,oredge and meat so that they go over the broad tip. tdppshhhremraieageusfonh eamkureta ebotliylt es ipno ifnlot ur. Wanhd eisn the oil sisfeshouspriit medacebimealeplle-yring, afrdydin ga. few 3. Season the chicken with the cornflour, sugar, salt, white drumettes. pepper, oyster sauce, light soy sauce, sesame oil, Chinese TDIPoS not rice wine and egg white. Leave aside for at least an hour. coovnveernciernocew, d orI fry the 4. When ready to fry, heat a wok or deep frying pan. Add sufficient oil to cover a layer of drumettes. drumettes otnhcee until tdhreyu tmurnettes ciwbcjcdtbgtnwunhhoherrohissunoouiiselttccitdwglee mlkkdtueasleene nsd fnn.set rt Iite sylsee.ta Tmu,rn rest on a

157 Chicken Drumsticks These drumsticks are an all-time family favourite. Nowadays, I describe them as chicken lollipops. My mother took the time to fashion the chicken drumettes (the meaty first joint of the wing, also called wingsticks) into ‘meaty balls on bone sticks’, hence looking very much like drum mallets … or lollipops in the eyes of my daughter Lmi1z.a2zk ekiseg 1 .o2 rs e2r¾vin pgsounds chicken wings 2 (or drumettes only if you want tablespoons to fashion them) light soy 1 egg white, optional sauce 2 tablespoons cornflour 2 teaspoons sugar 2 teaspoons 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon white pepper powder sesame oil 2 tablespoons oyster sauce 2 teaspoons 1. Clean the chicken drumettes. Chinese 2. To fashion the drumettes into lollipops, use a paring r*i cPee awninuet knife and slice around the narrow tip of each drumette to 4Pfdobifaomrl l irtaarnelao pivdi(nn cAoa6g derufis nctl)iroasug.unprs detach the skin from the bone. Scrape the skin and meat towards the broader tip of the drumette. Invert the skin 5oItf. ao liDsl,oredge and meat so that they go over the broad tip. ptdphshhermraieageusfonh eamkureta ebotliylt *es ipno ifnlot ur. Wanhd eisn the oil siesfshouspriit medacebimealeplle-yring, afrdydin ga. few 3. Season the chicken with the cornflour, sugar, salt, white drumettes. pepper, oyster sauce, light soy sauce, sesame oil, Chinese DTIPoS :n Foort rice wine and egg white. Leave aside for at least an hour. ocovnveernciernocew, d orI fry the 4. When ready to fry, heat a wok or deep frying pan. Add sufficient oil to cover a layer of drumettes. drumettes tonhcee until dthreyu Ytmuorunettes cjccwibwngbtdtunhohherrohissnuoouiiselttccitdwlgee mlkkdtueasleenTe nsd fnnh.set rt eIite sylsee.ta Tmu,rn rest on a

1 red chilli, seeded and cut into shreds 1 tomato, cut into wedges Sweet and Sour Pork The sauce ingredients listed below bear testament to a colonial heritage. I believe this recipe was adapted by a Hainanese chef. These chefs— largely working behind the stoves of private colonial clubs, homes of British civil servants andY koiutc chaenn sa losfo asrumbsyt bitaurtrea cthkse— 300 g or 10½ ounces of poiornke weritehd tthhee saarmt oef a mmaorurynitn ogf B frisithish food products like HfilPle Sta ourc 6e0 w0i tgh o Cr h1i npeosuen idn g5r½ed oieunntcse. s of large prawns. In this instance, leave the sodium bicarbonate and water out of the marinade. makes 12 servings 1 300 g or 10½ ounces pork (shoulder) tablespoon ¼ teaspoon sodium bicarbonate 1 teaspoon salt A1 Steak ½ teaspoon sugar S½au tcaeb loerspoon 1 tablespoon water HP Scahuilclie 1 egg yolk 1½ tsoa u2ce, ½ tablespoon cornflour stalubrlpreyrsepfoeornasbly v1½ineLgianrgham’s 6 cups oil for frying, preferably tablespoon peanut oil* cornflour Cornflour for dredging g2arnish sauce t1a blalergspeoons 4 tablespoons sugar watoernion, 1½ teaspoons salt 10 tablespoons water 3 stsakliknsned 1 teaspoon sesame oil aspnrdi ncgut 4 tablespoons tomato ketchup ionntioons (wsecadlgleiosns), 1 tablespoon Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce discard 1 cuwchuimteber, 1. Cut the pork into 2.5 cm or 1 inch cubes and marinate in the sodium bicarbonate, salt, sugar, water and egg yolk. pskoirntnioend, acuntd into c2o.5r ecdm, or 1 * Peisanlniccuhetd oil (pfAiinseiecaleyns brand) imparts a nice flavour. 4It. also phoasr ka a

1 red chilli, seeded and cut into shreds 1 tomato, cut into wedges Sweet and Sour Pork The sauce ingredients listed below bear testament to a colonial heritage. I believe this recipe was adapted by a Hainanese chef. These chefs— largely working behind the stoves of private colonial clubs, homes of British civil servants andY koiutc chaenn sa losfo asrumbsyt bitaurtrea cthkse— 300 g or 10½ ounces of poiornke weritehd tthhee saarmt oef a mmaorurynitn ogf B frisithish food products like fHilPle Sta ourc 6e0 w0i tgh o Cr h1i npeosuen idn g5r½ed oieunntcse. s of large prawns. In this instance, leave the sodium bicarbonate and water out of the marinade. makes 12 servings 1 300 g or 10½ ounces pork (shoulder) tablespoon ¼ teaspoon sodium bicarbonate 1 teaspoon salt A1 Steak ½ teaspoon sugar S½au tcaeb loerspoon 1 tablespoon water HP Scahuilclie 1 egg yolk 1½ tsoa u2ce, ½ tablespoon cornflour stalubrlpreyrsepfoeornasbly v1½ineLgianrgham’s 6 cups oil for frying, preferably tablespoon peanut oil* cornflour Cornflour for dredging g2arnish sauce t1a blalergspeoons 4 tablespoons sugar watoernion, 1½ teaspoons salt 10 tablespoons water 3 stsakliknsned 1 teaspoon sesame oil aspnrdi ncgut 4 tablespoons tomato ketchup ionntioons w(secadlgleiosns), 1 tablespoon Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce discard 1 cuwchuimteber, 1. Cut the pork into 2.5 cm or 1 inch cubes and marinate in the sodium bicarbonate, salt, sugar, water and egg yolk. pskoirntnioend, acuntd into c2o.5r ecdm, or 1 * Pesianlniccuhetd oil (fpAiinseiecaleyns brand) imparts a nice flavour. 4It. a lFsory the phoasr ka a



Chilli Chuka Tangy Chilli- Vinegar Sauce In ourWhile shopping in a farmers’ market in Chiang Mai, I was taught how to gauge the household,dried chillies before buying. You could press your hand chilli chukadown on the batch of dried chillies and ‘feel’ the heat. Be careful about how much dried was morechilIlti eis ayolsuo aimddp oinrt. aSntat rtto w niothte a t lhitattl ethe smaller the chilli, tohf et hheo tptaesrt iet fwirisltl tbaesctaeu. Hsee nthce ,spiciness of the dried essential thandcheislelieeds tvhaeri ecsh iwllieths oera chu tb baatchk .on the quantity if you end up using small red chillies, particularly the fresh ones. ketchup (in makes about 3½ cups 15 g or ½ ounce to 30 g or 1 ounce our case,dried chillies, soaked in hot water 230 g or 8 ounces red chillies 90 g or 3 ounces garlic 300 ml or 1¼ cups rice vinegar Maggi 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup sugar tomato2 cups water 1. Separately, blend the dried chillies and fresh chillies into semi-fine pastes and set aside. sauce) or Lingham’s chilli sauce. It ranked2. Blend the garlic. Mix in half of the dried chilli paste and half of the fresh chilli paste. Add more if you wish to

Chilli Chuka Tangy Chilli- Vinegar Sauce In ourWhile shopping in a farmers’ market in Chiang Mai, I was taught how to gauge the household,dried chillies before buying. You could press your hand chilli chukadown on the batch of dried chillies and ‘feel’ the heat. Be careful about how much dried was morechilIlti eis ayolsuo aimddp oinrt. aSntat rtto w niothte a t lhitattl ethe smaller the chilli, tohf et hheo tptaesrt iet fwirisltl tbaesctaeu. Hsee nthce ,spiciness of the dried essential thandcheislelieeds tvhaeri ecsh iwllieths oera chu tb baatchk .on the quantity if you end up using small red chillies, particularly the fresh ones. ketchup (in makes about 3½ cups 15 g or ½ ounce to 30 g or 1 ounce our case,dried chillies, soaked in hot water 230 g or 8 ounces red chillies 90 g or 3 ounces garlic 300 ml or 1¼ cups rice vinegar Maggi 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup sugar tomato2 cups water 1. Separately, blend the dried chillies and fresh chillies into semi-fine pastes and set aside. sauce) or Lingham’s chilli sauce. It ranked2. Blend the garlic. Mix in half of the dried chilli paste and half of the fresh chilli paste. Add more if you wish to

161 Satay Skewers of Grilled SpicyWhen many of us think of satay, we recall the days of Satay Club by the Esplanade. Marinated Our family sometimes met up at the Satay Club for a satay treat and I remember then, Meat, with the hawker charged us according to the number of dirty Peanutsticks left ommnuakt tetoshn 4 oetro ct8ha iscebkrevlnien bg.rse 4a5st0 ½g otar b1l epsopuonodn fsialllett of beef, Gravy½ teaspoon sodium bicarbonate 1 tablespoon ground coriander (ketumbar) 1 teaspoon cumin (jintan puteh) ½ teaspoon fennel (jintan manis) 1 inch galangal (lengkuas), skinned This recipeand julienned finely ½ inch turmeric (kunyit), skinned and julienned finely 1 stalk lemon grass (seray), use bottom third, chopped finely (reserve the applies to top parts of stalks) 2½ candlenuts (buah keras), chopped coarsely 11 shallots, peeled and cubed beef, mutton 5 cloves garlic, peeled 60 g or 2 ounces gula melaka or chicken.1½ tablespoons sugar 60 satay sticks peanut gravy 300 g or 10½ ounces peanuts, roasted and ground Pinch of salt It came 2 cups water 2 tomatoes, quartered 2 slices galangal (lengkuas), from myskinned and julienned finely 1 stalk lemon grass (seray), use bottom third, chopped finely 5 shallots, peeled and quartered 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 10 dried red chillies, soaked in mother’shot water for 20 minutes 15 g or ½ ounce belachan ½ cup peanut oil Salt to taste Indonesian Sugar to taste friend and differs from the Nonya

161 Satay Skewers of Grilled SpicyWhen many of us think of satay, we recall the days of Satay Club by the Esplanade. Marinated Our family sometimes met up at the Satay Club for a satay treat and I remember then, Meat, with the hawker charged us according to the number of dirty Peanutsticks left ommnuakt tetoshn 4 oetro ct8ha iscebkrevlnien bg.rse 4a5st0 ½g otar b1l epsopuonodn fsialllett of beef, Gravy½ teaspoon sodium bicarbonate 1 tablespoon ground coriander (ketumbar) 1 teaspoon cumin (jintan puteh) ½ teaspoon fennel (jintan manis) 1 inch galangal (lengkuas), skinned This recipeand julienned finely ½ inch turmeric (kunyit), skinned and julienned finely 1 stalk lemon grass (seray), use bottom third, chopped finely (reserve the applies to top parts of stalks) 2½ candlenuts (buah keras), chopped coarsely 11 shallots, peeled and cubed beef, mutton 5 cloves garlic, peeled 60 g or 2 ounces gula melaka or chicken.1½ tablespoons sugar 60 satay sticks peanut gravy 300 g or 10½ ounces peanuts, roasted and ground Pinch of salt It came 2 cups water 2 tomatoes, quartered 2 slices galangal (lengkuas), from myskinned and julienned finely 1 stalk lemon grass (seray), use bottom third, chopped finely 5 shallots, peeled and quartered 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 10 dried red chillies, soaked in mother’shot water for 20 minutes 15 g or ½ ounce belachan ½ cup peanut oil Salt to taste Indonesian Sugar to taste friend and differs from the Nonya

1. Slice the fillet of meat into 1 cm or ½ inch pieces. 7. Season with salt and sodium bicarbonate. ready, grill the 2. Prepare paste to marinate meat. Blend or pound the satay remaining ingredients (except for gula melaka and sugar) in the order stated. over red h8.ot 3. Marinate the meat with the blended paste, along with cbheastr csoearvl,ed the gula melaka and sugar. Leave aside overnight or at twuirtnhi rnigce least 2 hours in a refrigerator. Meanwhile, prepare the koevteurpat peanut gravy. oqaatcf1tcpsaBiccrsgBb2(fttsatswstltmntpT5htts3foutottatpgmlbtgstgbSesgotdaDcawsastb4ilgogieenncrorhhhoihoohohhhhuhhhi.aetpataophrauohhv.nnnlnnnrirararrvni..fretuueorearent.eorrm ichoeammaoovlaiei rpm maaairtdteeeeeeeeeeeautuuipkmnaeoliiaclriuefaaatas itdddddd rcariwgtxevrlesCgoaamnnaell nialmnaloohlsvs mnt hulennttasiccre elorynnrstnelkt roogsggo. rpthitdsaarnllnind ewafuycot iggsseugiinr y hueeercesi, sttmuinalop nhouuarrrse nnikprannasttaohs, endyaed.mg sehsll),ippsssoiantta rytisoonoenttsnra.trdggti,fela.i nrbdacd,ooeahseaa tvsnutletdde fee dcbte e oaen.lo,heel ts,,annynns.ssaa,eu tid.ofrarri.ns..cdtceeykd. boil and 4. Remove the marinated meat from the refrigerator then and begin to skewer the meat on the satay sticks. to a simmer. Season with 5. According to the original recipe, the amount of beef should produce 50 sticks, the mutton about 50 sticks and the chicken, 30 sticks. 6. Each stick should have about 5 cm or 2 inches of meat, grouped tightly together starting at the top end of the stick. Make sure that each small piece of meat is poked twice through the stick so that it does not fall off during grilling.

1. Slice the fillet of meat into 1 cm or ½ inch pieces. 7. When Season with salt and sodium bicarbonate. ready, grill the 2. Prepare paste to marinate meat. Blend or pound the satay remaining ingredients (except for gula melaka and sugar) in the order stated. over red h8.o t Satay is 3. Marinate the meat with the blended paste, along with cbheastr csoearvl,ed the gula melaka and sugar. Leave aside overnight or at twuirtnhi rnigce least 2 hours in a refrigerator. Meanwhile, prepare the okevteurpat peanut gravy. btBcgsfsbttlmp5sfuapttSotasa4gogibacdgtsgllton3shTttt(tstwsartcmt2bgBsciaespft1cDataowqtogieenncrrohhohhhhohhhuhhiohoi.toaetphaaprhahouv.nnnlnnnairrrarrv.rifn.etuuoerraeent.eorrm ic oheamm aoov liaie rmpm iaaartdteeaeeeeeeeee uutuipk mnoeal iaiclruiefaataas itdddddd rcariwgt xev r lesCgoaamnnaell nialmSnalPAoHolshvs m nt hulennttsaccire elroynnrstnelk troosoggg. rpthitdsaarnllnind eafwucyot iggtssuegiinro y hueeedrcesi, sttmuinalop nhoeuuarrres nnikprannasittaohs, endyaed.mg sehsll),uippsssrdioantta rytaisoonoenttsnar.trdggti,fela.i nrbdacd ,ooeahsenaa tvsnutletttdde fee dcbte e oaen.lo,heel ts,,hannydnns.ssaa,eu tid.ofrarri.nes..cdtceeykd. boil and 4. Remove the marinated meat from the refrigerator then and begin to skewer the meat on the satay sticks. to a simmer. Season with 5. According to the original recipe, the amount of beef should produce 50 sticks, the mutton about 50 sticks and the chicken, 30 sticks. 6. Each stick should have about 5 cm or 2 inches of meat, grouped tightly together starting at the top end of the stick. Make sure that each small piece of meat is poked twice through the stick so that it does not fall off during grilling.



Nonya Pork Satay I suppose this is a classic example of the Babas adopting a dish and infusingWe sometimes had this with our buffet spread. We also included it in our many their ownbarbecue gatherings, along with the otak otak, prawns and chicken wings, as well as marinated thin slices ofp streaekf.erence. They liked the concept of satay but wanted to use pork. Also, instead of serving fresh onions and cucumbers to go with the satay and gravy, the Nonyas liked to accompany it with pineapple. In my opinion, the

165 2 slices makes 6 to 10 servings 2 stalks 600 g or 1¼ pounds pork fillet 60 g or 2 ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ inch piece of turmeric 3 red chillies, 1 stalk lemon grass (seray), upper sliced stalks and outer layers removed, fi5n edlryied sliced thinly 300 cghillies, s15h agl lsooorta s½k, ed ½ teaspoon white pepper powder poueenlceiend hot 1 teaspoon sugar abneldawchaatner ½ teaspoon salt q½u caurftpoerr e2d0 60 satay sticks peanmuitnutes tStSoaa½iualsslg tttfa eerpesatrekynoi snteidhnoesnapedple, gravy gravryemoved, 2 cups peanut oil 300 g or 10½ ounces peanuts 1. Hgreataetd a wok and 115 g or 4 ounces tamarind (assam), add soaked in 2 cups hot water peanut oil. When the Pinch of salt 2o.i l iSstrain gthliestening, 1. Slice the pork into 1 cm or ½ inch pieces. tfraym tahreind pj3u.e i ac Cneo uamtnsbd. ine 2. Blend or pound the cinnamon, turmeric, lemon grass Rtdhiesemc gaorvodeund and white pepper into a fine paste. pwtheietah ns euaetds,s saolnomdttee dsalt 3. Marinate the pork with the paste. Season with sugar sa4fipn.b o dr Poeon. und and salt. Leave aside overnight or at least 2 hours atoanrm dgrairnidnd in a refrigerator. Meanwhile, prepare the gravy. twthraetnesrf einr tao agsa buloacwnegplaln, . 4. Remove the marinated pork from the refrigerator and l5lBie.nr m ie nHodgen w atotit oahil begin to skewer the meat on the satay sticks. Each stick should have about 5 cm or 2 inches of meat, grouped tightly together starting at the top end of the stick. Make sure that each small piece of meat is poked twice through the stick so that it does not fall off during grilling. 5. When ready, grill the satay over red hot charcoal, turning over often so that the meat grills evenly.

165 2 slices makes 6 to 10 servings galangal 600 g or 1¼ pounds pork fillet 2 stsl(aelkelmiknnsognnkeudas) ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon garnads ssliced ½ inch piece of turmeric 60 gus(ofsi toupnearnperl 2kacelyersys), 1 stalk lemon grass (seray), upper 3 redacannddlenuts stalks and outer layers removed, 3fcsilh50ni ic0edlel lrcsclrko(igdyabeielhohueeiysumarioctd,elaaereplorisrsdhpesve)es,ely,dd, sliced thinly s15h agl ltsoohortia sn½k,leyd opueenlceiend hot ½ teaspoon white pepper powder baneldawchaatner 1 teaspoon sugar ½qu caurftpoerr e2d0 ½ teaspoon salt peanmuitnutes 60 satay sticks SoSttaa½iaulsslg tttfa eerpeastrekynoi snteidhnoesnapedple, gravy gravryemoved, 2 cups peanut oil 300 g or 10½ ounces peanuts 1. Hgreataetd a 115 g or 4 ounces tamarind (assam), wok and soaked in 2 cups hot water add Pinch of salt peanut oil. 1. Slice the pork into 1 cm or ½ inch pieces. When the 2. Blend or pound the cinnamon, turmeric, lemon grass and white pepper into a fine paste. 2o.i l iSstrain tghliestening, 3. Marinate the pork with the paste. Season with sugar tfraym tahreind and salt. Leave aside overnight or at least 2 hours 3jpu.e i ac Cneo uamtnsbd. ine in a refrigerator. Meanwhile, prepare the gravy. dRthiesemc gaorvodeund tpwheietah ns euaetds,s 4. Remove the marinated pork from the refrigerator and salonomdttee dsalt begin to skewer the meat on the satay sticks. Each stick saf4ipn.b o dr Poeon. und should have about 5 cm or 2 inches of meat, grouped tightly atoanrm dgrairnidnd together starting at the top end of the stick. Make sure that twthraetnesrf einr tao each small piece of meat is poked twice through the stick sgaa buloacwnegplaln, . so that it does not fall off during grilling. l5lBie.nr m ie nHodgen w atotit oahil 5. When ready, grill the satay over red hot charcoal, turning over often so that the meat grills evenly.

Curry Pastry Puffs wPithu Dffisced Chicken Curry, Potatoes and LMipyt mono’tsh teera .s eI rcvaeEnd gf tegheisls t ahse a w taeram-ttihm fer otrmeat, with hot the frying just writing about this. She was very quick with her hands when crimping the edges along the half-moon puffs. Nowadays, you can buy a plastic mould to do the trick. You may use the same recipe for chicken curry to make the filling or recycle leftovers. If so, remove the eggs and potatoes and dice them finely, individually. Debone the chicken meat and dice finmealyke st 2o0o se.r vTinhges n recombine in sufficient leftover grafvilyli ntgo make a moist filling. For the fastest w23a0y g toor 8d oeulniceios umsin pceud fbfese,f uors epo frkrozen puff pastry and leftover2 ctahbilceskpeonon cs ucurrrryy pfoilwlidnerg (.page 44) 2 tablespoons lard or cooking oil 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 2 shallots, peeled and pounded 1 big onion, peeled and finely diced ½ tablespoon ground chilli 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon white pepper powder 1 teaspoon sugar (optional) filling for at least 1. Marinate the minced meat with the curry powder and half an set aside for at least half an hour. h3.our bdeofoorr kenob 2. Heat oil in a saucepan. When oil is glistening, fry the T4wisftadsbnlhionhao.aziteflkuditeoltstig e oneahnnfg .it garlic and shallots until fragrant, not burnt. Add the diced onion, followed by the marinated minced meat. 3. Add the ground chilli, salt and white pepper, adjust according to taste. Sprinkle some sugar if desired.

Curry Pastry Puffs wPithu Dffisced Chicken Curry, Potatoes and LMipyt mono’tsh teera .s eI rcvaeEnd gf tegheisls t ahse a w taeram-ttihm fer otrmeat, with hot the frying just writing about this. She was very quick with her hands when crimping the edges along the half-moon puffs. Nowadays, you can buy a plastic mould to do the trick. You may use the same recipe for chicken curry to make the filling or recycle leftovers. If so, remove the eggs and potatoes and dice them finely, individually. Debone the chicken meat and dice finmealyke st 2o0o se.r vTinhges n recombine in sufficient leftover grafvilyli ntgo make a moist filling. For pastry the fastest w23a0y g toor 8d oeulniceios umsin pceud fbfese,f uors epo frkrozen puff pastry 280 g or and leftover2 ctahbilceskpeonon cs ucurrrryy pfoilwlidnerg (.page 44) 10 ounces plain flour 2 tablespoons lard or cooking oil 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 151 8g0 o gr 1or 6½ 2 shallots, peeled and pounded tableosupnocoens 1 big onion, peeled and finely diced b1 uetgtgem,rargarine ½ tablespoon ground chilli beatoern 1 teaspoon salt ½ shortening* ½ teaspoon white pepper powder teaspoon 1 teaspoon sugar (optional) salt 9* 0T hmel or 3o rfilguiindal oreucnicpees wsuagtegrested suet which filling can be forh aartd to 1. Marinate the minced meat with the curry powder and leafsintd and set aside for at least half an hour. haltfo oa nrich in h3.o cu Phroullels aterol. 2. Heat oil in a saucepan. When oil is glistening, fry the bdeofoorr kenob garlic and shallots until fragrant, not burnt. Add the diced 4fdwsbitsTanlhionhao.azi tef lkudite oltsAtig e onealhntnfge .irtnatively, onion, followed by the marinated minced meat. 3. Add the ground chilli, salt and white pepper, adjust according to taste. Sprinkle some sugar if desired.



Pang Susi Meat Buns Little meat buns; these were always present at our birthday parties and children loved them. Variations of them exist in the bread-and- bun stores throughout

1 tablespoon minced garlic 680 g or makes 20 servings 1½ yeast mix 280opm uogi unnonccreed 1sds0 45 g or 1½ ounces dry yeast powder ppw2 oehtpweiptadcodb(mipenespureeoiprectobretoeoarafe dtko)tsfonineses, 1 teaspoon sugar 1½ and 1 tablespoon flour teasppoaorbnosiled ¾ cup warm water salt dough 110 g or 4 ounces butter 3 5 egg yolks 110 g or 4 ounces sugar tablespoons ½ teaspoon salt ¼s2sluu gtreararyspoon 1¼ cup warm milk gtarboluensdpoons 680 g or 1½ pounds plain flour 23cneogurgtnmfleogur w2ttaa aebbsgllheegsspp, oooonnss 2 small sweet potatoes, boiled wbdeaaartktee rsnoy and mashed sauce filling 1 cup oil 4 3 tablespoons finely sliced shallots 8 shallots, sliced finely tablespoons pastry water 1. Combine the dry yeast powder, sugar and flour in a for 5 bowl. Add warm water and stir. Allow to stand for 10 minutes until the volume increases. minutes. 2. Beat butter, egg yolks, sugar and salt together in a Then add mixing bowl with an electric beater. Add milk, a little at a time. Stir in a cup of flour until it is fully absorbed into the the dough mixture. Add activated yeast solution and mashed potato followed by the rest of the flour, a little at potatoes a time. Continue to beat until the dough leaves the sides of the mixing bowl. Cover the bowl with a moist cloth and 2an. d M frayk feor leave the dough to rise until it has doubled in size. tahneo tshluerrry a5 nmdi nstuitre isn., aM beiatn awt ahile, tciommeb, itnoe t3ahn. i d cR ksetetinur .rthne Yrtoeom tuh ameinaiyng idandogjuurgeshdt .itehnets aPinmu alol au nbtit of soelfu ptrharreyate

dry yeast powder 680 g or r r 1½ ar and flour in a 280omp uogi unnonccreed 1sds0 lt together in a 2pwp oehtpweiptadp(bodicmenespureeioprectobretoeoarafe dtko)tsfonineses, dd milk, a little at 1½ and ully absorbed into teasppoaorbnosiled the flour, a little at h leaves the sides salt h a moist cloth and 3 tablespoons ss¼2ulu gtreararyspoon gtarboluensdpoons cen23ogurgtnmfleogur w2ttaa aebbsgllheegsspp, oooonnss bwdeaaartktee rsnoy sauce 4 tablespoons water for 5 minutes. Then add the potatoes a2n. d M frayk feor tahneo tshluerrry a5 nmdi nstuitre isn., aM beiatn awt ahile, ctiommeb, itnoe ta3hn. i d cR ksetetinur .rthne Ytroeom tuh ameinaiyng adindogjuurgeshdt .itehnets iaPnmu alol au nbtit of solefu ptrharreyate

5 tablespoons lard or oil 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce Kueh Deep-fried SwKeet lPeodteakto Balls stuffed with Kueh Chang My mother, for a brief period, sold these to a shop in Orchard Roafdi.l Tlhinerge was even a family tale that a very prominent Baba politician used to send his chauffeur over to buy them occasionally. Our family chomped them and sometimes complained about how jeluak (surfeited) we were, by the sight of sweet preserved melon being chopped into small cubes and the oil and pungency of the deep frying. My mother then rarely made them. After her passing, wmea ykees a25r nduemdpl infgosr kueh kledek, especially since these werep ahsatrryd to find. This is one 3 tablespoons 900 g or 2 pounds sweet potato garlic, 10 shpaeleloletds ,and of the mos1t t ambliessspeoodn i stuegmars. It also took a while for me to peelepdo uanndded find the re1c4i0p ge o ar m5 oiudnscte sh gelurt itnroouvs eri.ce flour pounfidneedly 105 g or 3¾ ounces rice flour finely ½ to 1 cup water, enough to form ½ to 1 a firm dough pptwts11o5csofoea0auu14 iuoehtlar0blgp0 pwnottisl0asp tca epdtcsptsg8er eebsoieiog oeolesorplaelr rouevo roisdfnnsae rtios3pnndden,½odeedso deanrnsd filling 450 g or 1 pound lean pork 60 g or 2 ounces pork fat 8 dried mushrooms (soaked in hot water until soft) pastry 3de. ep ifnry ian gwok. 1. Skin sweet potatoes and dice them. Steam till soft. Add sugar to the sweet potatoes and mash until smooth. Fry garlic a4n. d shallots 2. Sieve the two types of flour and add to the mashed stialll tf,ragrant, sweet potato. Add water, a little at a time until you have snuogt abru, rnt. a firm dough. Set aside. wAdhdit deiced ppoeprkp earn,d cm5o. urisahnrdoeorms.

5 tablespoons lard or oil 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce Kueh Deep-fried SwKeet lPeodteakto Balls stuffed with Kueh Chang My mother, for a brief period, sold these to a shop in Orchard Roafdi.l Tlhinerge was even a family tale that a very prominent Baba politician used to send his chauffeur over to buy them occasionally. Our family chomped them and sometimes complained about how jeluak (surfeited) we were, by the sight of sweet preserved melon being chopped into small cubes and the oil and pungency of the deep frying. My mother then rarely made them. After her passing, wmea ykees a25r nduemdpl infgosr kueh kledek, especially since these werep ahsatrryd to find. This is one 3 tablespoons 900 g or 2 pounds sweet potato garlic, 10 shpaeleloletds ,and of the mos1t t ambliessspeoodn i stuegmars. It also took a while for me to peelepdo uanndded find the re1c4i0p ge o ar m5 oiudnscte sh gelurt itnroouvs eri.ce flour pounfidneedly 105 g or 3¾ ounces rice flour finely ½ to 1 cup water, enough to form ½ to 1 a firm dough s1ppsftt1wo5cooae0auu14 uioehtlarb0lgp0 pwnottisl0asp tc aepd(tcspts3ocmg8er eetbsoieioagu½ oeolaesorpelaenlr rounevon rloisdfdnoncsae rgtios3ipennnddeen,½sodeeddso deanrnsd filling 450 g or 1 pound lean pork 3idfnre.y e ia pnHkd gwuieceeoahdkt), .oil 60 g or 2 ounces pork fat 8 dried mushrooms (soaked in hot water until soft) pastry 1. Skin sweet potatoes and dice them. Steam till soft. Add sugar to the sweet potatoes and mash until smooth. Fry garlic a4n. d A sdhdallots 2. Sieve the two types of flour and add to the mashed tsialll tf,ragrant, sweet potato. Add water, a little at a time until you have nsuogt abru, rnt. a firm dough. Set aside. wAdhdit deiced ppoeprkp earn,d c5mo. u r Wisahnhrdeoneorms.



Cream Puffs My mother always made cream puffs for my birthday parties. My mother’s cream puffs were dainty and the custard was creamy. Yet, today, I still appreciate the somewhat inferior, localised version of large, flat and almost soggy cream puffs with hardened yellow custSainrdc,e a Slminogsatp oofr ea djeidll on ocot nussies tferneschy .m Thilek bceresat mof htehaevseily icno uthlde boeld f oduaynsd, eastp tehcei alallnyd sminacrek Rite wdo Huoldu sgee Bt astkaelrey v aelroyn qgu Eiackstly C iona tsht eR toraodp iacnadl hneoawt, amt y nmeoatrhbeyr ’Csh fiinlli Mnge ew Cash idne rCiovendfectionery. from evaporated milk. My mother’s recipe also called for bakAinlsgo p, olitwtldee dr iwd hthiceh c ihni lmdroesnt know that the custard ftrilalidnigti oanlsaol hcahdo ubxr apnadsytr!y Y ruemci pyeusm, i!s not required. makes 20 servings custard f¾il lcinupg choux pastry evaporated ½ cup water milk 30 g or 1 ounce butter, cut into ¾ cup water small cubes 30 g or 1 90 g or 3 ounces plain flour ounce ¼ teaspoon baking powder (optional) butter 1 teaspoon vanilla essence 60 g or 2 3 small eggs ounces flour choux pastry 45 g or 1½ ounces 1. Preheat oven to 200 to 230 degrees C or 400 to csuusgtaarrd 450 degrees F. f1½i.l l i nCgombine 2. Add water to a saucepan and bring to a boil. Drop in the ttehaes pmooinlk cubes of butter and stir until the butter melts. Add the flour aevsansndeinl lwcaeater and baking powder, a little at a time, and stir gently until i1n e gag, the paste leaves the sides of the saucepan. Leave to cool sliaghutclyepan abenadte bnring t½o tablespoon

Cream Puffs My mother always made cream puffs for my birthday parties. My mother’s cream puffs were dainty and the custard was creamy. Yet, today, I still appreciate the somewhat inferior, localised version of large, flat and almost soggy cream puffs with hardened yellow custSainrdc,e a Slminogsatp oofr ea djeidll on ocot nussies tferneschy .m Thilek bceresat mof htehaevseily icno uthlde boeld f oduaynsd, eastp tehcei alallnyd sminacrek Rite wdo Huoldu sgee Bt astkaelrey v aelroyn qgu Eiackstly C iona tsht eR toraodp iacnadl hneoawt, amt y nmeoatrhbeyr ’Csh fiinlli Mnge ew Cash idne rCiovendfectionery. from evaporated milk. My mother’s recipe also called for bakAinlsgo p, olitwtldee dr iwd hthiceh c ihni lmdroesnt know that the custard ftrilalidnigti oanlsaol hcahdo ubxr apnadsytr!y Y ruemci pyeusm, i!s not required. makes 20 servings custard f¾il lcinupg choux pastry evaporated ½ cup water milk 30 g or 1 ounce butter, cut into ¾ cup water small cubes 30 g or 1 90 g or 3 ounces plain flour ounce ¼ teaspoon baking powder (optional) butter 1 teaspoon vanilla essence 60 g or 2 3 small eggs ounces flour choux pastry 45 g or 1½ ounces 1. Preheat oven to 200 to 230 degrees C or 400 to csuusgtaarrd 450 degrees F. f1½i.l l i nCgombine 2. Add water to a saucepan and bring to a boil. Drop in the ttehaes pmooinlk cubes of butter and stir until the butter melts. Add the flour aevsansndeinl lwcaeater and baking powder, a little at a time, and stir gently until i1n e gag, the paste leaves the sides of the saucepan. Leave to cool sliaghutclyepan abenadte bnring t½o tablespoon

10 cups water Almond Jelly with Lychees in Syrup I am old-fashioned and still prefer to use the raffia-like agar strips. Also, make sure to get a good quality almond extract. Try it first, otherwise your jelly may end up tasting very chemical. makes 12 servings 1½ cups 30 g or 1 ounce agar strips, cut evaporated into 2.5 cm or 1 inch pieces * milk 12 cans 1½ teaspoons gelatine powder, tablelyscphoeoens dissolved in 1 cup water almo(nyodu may e*x Ctraasnuc bt estitute 600 g or 1 pound 5 ounces sugar subswtituh tferduit 1. Soak the agar strips in a bowl of water for 5 minutes. withc oacktail if 2. Fill a large pot with 10 cups water and bring to a boil. simiylaoru 3. Drain the agar strips using a strainer and add to the 6aa.mg a oPpruroneufte ror )fthe boiling water. Stir occasionally to dissolve the strips. jpeolwlyd mer ixture 4. Add the gelatine powder solution and sugar. Continue to stir to dissolve any remaining lumps. into two 5. When the jelly begins to thicken, turn off the heat. large bowls. Pour the mixture through a strainer, to obtain a more concentrated and clear jelly. Press down on the strainer Cool for to extract as much flavour and gelatine as possible. Allow to cool. Then add the evaporated milk and almond extract a7.b o Wuth heanlf an and stir well. rheoaudry a to room tsemrvpee, rature. Tsphoeonn chill them ianlm aond rjeelflryi ginetroator sfomr a4l lheorurs dore sosveerrtnight buonwtil sthe jelly asentds .t Cophill ethaec h2 cans of blyocwhel es or wfriutiht acocktail afesw well. lychees.

lly with Lychees in still prefer to use the raffia-like ond extract. Try it first, otherwise ter for 5 minutes. 1½ cups nd bring to a boil. evaporated er and add to the milk olve the strips. 12 cans tablelyscphoeoens nd sugar. Continue almo(nyodu may e*x Ctraasnuc bt estitute rn off the heat. subswtituh tferduit o obtain a more wn on the strainer withc oacktail if e as possible. Allow and almond extract simiylaoru 6aa.mg a oPpruroneufte ror )fthe jpeolwlyd mer ixture into two large bowls. Cool for 7a.b o Wuth heanlf an hreoaudry a to room tsemrvpee, rature. Tsphoeonn chill them ainlm aond jreelflryi ginetroator sfomr a4l lheorurs odre sosveerrtnight buonwtil sthe jelly asentds .t Cophill tehaec h2 cans of lbyocwhel es or fwriutiht acocktail faesw well. lychees.

Bijik Selaseh Ice- Cold Rose Syrup with Jelly Basil Seeds Our neighbour Aunty makes 8 servings 2 tablespoons dry basil seeds Paddy( bijik selaseh) 1 cup rose syrup (try to use TG Kiat or F&N brands) 6 to 8 cups drinking water alwaysor soda water 1. Place the dry basil seeds in a bowl and soak in water for 15 minutes. 2. welcomed us ohftsotae3rheuadf.fuoa fercdts msfdhhk a6pre sgcoyeloa.nsss, with this 4so. aked refreshing drink when bdirjinkk in the srelfarisgeehr.ator we visited Abelsfo raed ydo 6u tsearvspe.oons her. It of rose syrup and simply takes fill the rest of the glass minutes to with cold water. You make. Bijik may add more rose syrup

Bijik Selaseh Ice- Cold Rose Syrup with Jelly Basil Seeds Our neighbour Aunty makes 8 servings 2 tablespoons dry basil seeds Paddy( bijik selaseh) 1 cup rose syrup (try to use TG Kiat or F&N brands) 6 to 8 cups drinking water alwaysor soda water 1. Place the dry basil seeds in a bowl and soak in water for 15 minutes. 2. Skim welcomed us ohfottaes3rehuad.ffuo af e rcdts mFsfdhhk a6pore sgcoyreloa.nsss, with this 4so. a Ckhedill the refreshing drink when dbirjinkk in the rselfarisgeehr.ator we visited bAelsfo raed ydo 6u stearvspe.oons her. It of rose syrup and simply takes fill the rest of the glass minutes to with cold water. You make. Bijik may add more rose syrup





A Very Festive Family The Baba families celebrated the same festivals as the Chinese. There was the Dragon Boat Festival in the spring (typically in May). While these Chinese rice dumplings were wrapped in dry lotus leaves, filled with meat and had a salty tinge to it, the Nonyas created their own version. Theirs were wrapped in a large variant of pandan leaves instead to impart a fragrant flavour, ctshuMhaoesylremil mnef padegomo k totruhohfkeeu eth rsfh tlicNooelhloo ciarnknaniy clogg aerb (w dd auweusanr maossgsp pfsa prdlwo iotnymseegeele sdfdat,r nteiieonngn t e bdhfdlselou atwernaded mrit, iaaodnneadl

This kueh chang, so synonymous with the Peranakans, She set traces its history to ancient China during the time of up a the Warring States. Qu Yuan, an honest and beloved charcoal government official in the Kingdom of Chu, was wrongfully stove to accused of corruption by backstabbing peers. Humiliated, boil her he took his own life and drowned himself in the river. The kTuheehre was local villagers went out in boats to search for him, beating cahlsaon ag; drums and gongs during the search. They also threw rice tpheecyuliar dumplings into the river to distract the fish so that they hCuhningese would not eat his body; hence, the tradition of the Dragon ifnestival Boat festival and eating rice dumplings during this time. gthroatu ptosok pofla 1c0e My mother’s rice was steamed to make it stickier and fforor ma daay in easier to shape into pyramids. The pork was also pre-boiled Dbaemcebmoober. to make it firmer to dice. Each dumpling was wrapped Ipto wlea,s with the special pandan leaf—mainly available in May— cidaellnetdic al tied tightly with raffia string. They each looked like a fat TttMWNcCbutfawtbpbsawByFmSw(ChnaslrNbwifbdeldtutrsoanWaoohhoohieypteegpnseaoaoaiiirrpsahohiceeeeeaunirrsyetmrrd leweaem lyeeegsbbplivndttscoceeidwwettoi alyhtnsa lgh nt,dthhcdcsnaumkoeiikhhaed gh ib t .tdtb ai.nee tdmai b oileielol nmdytvrdhhYi d lTdarhycfiosinossCotcdereosmyesf saya-eeaelrtohea feyledwtteewihisre nrheltiietraynnyhhee.)csn. eoetad,diesr.s geeaeatlk d.Ir yhirdtten soprano spilling out of her seams. Her dumplings also cost hmts1pdtoh9aeaoepev1nyta op, gf wniuietrtdars yts twh aiantthd twice as much and good reason why. My mother’s ratio of meat to the blue and white sticky rice was twice as much as others. She spent a week making these, but spent at least an extra week preparing. Ah Seng the grocer would haul in a literal forest of broad pandan leaves, several times thicker, sturdier and taller than the leaves used for kueh. They rested in the red plastic buckets in the outdoor kitchen. My mother would cut and blister her fingers as she used a paring knife to scrape down the thorns on the underside vein of each leaf.

This kueh chang, so synonymous with the Peranakans, She set traces its history to ancient China during the time of up a the Warring States. Qu Yuan, an honest and beloved charcoal government official in the Kingdom of Chu, was wrongfully stove to accused of corruption by backstabbing peers. Humiliated, boil her he took his own life and drowned himself in the river. The Tkuheehre was local villagers went out in boats to search for him, beating achlsaon ag; drums and gongs during the search. They also threw rice ptheecyuliar dumplings into the river to distract the fish so that they Chuhningese would not eat his body; hence, the tradition of the Dragon ifnestival Boat festival and eating rice dumplings during this time. tghroatu ptosok pofla 1c0e My mother’s rice was steamed to make it stickier and fforor ma daay in easier to shape into pyramids. The pork was also pre-boiled Dbaemcebmoober. to make it firmer to dice. Each dumpling was wrapped Ipto wlea,s with the special pandan leaf—mainly available in May— cidaellnetdic Taalng tied tightly with raffia string. They each looked like a fat dsrrebfCiw(bNSlFsaalnhywdmpBwtswtftbubuaCNbMctWttToanWoahhoohoeiypteegpnseaoiiaaoirrspahohiceeaeeeunirrsyetmrrd l eweeam lyeeegsbbplvindttscoceeidwwettoi alyhtnsa lgh nt,dhthcdcsnaumkoeiikhhaed gh ib t .tdtb ai.nee tdmaib oileielol nmdytrvdhhYi d lTdarhycfiosinossCotcdereosmyesf saya-eeaelrtohea feyledwttewiehisre nrheltiietraynnyhhee.)csn. eoetad,diesr.s geeaeatlk d.Ir yhirdtten soprano spilling out of her seams. Her dumplings also cost tsptmhd1oh9aeaoepev1nyta) op, gf w,niui e wt(rtdarps ayts tawhs agianetthd twice as much and good reason why. My mother’s ratio of meat to the blue and white sticky rice was twice as much as others. She spent a week making these, but spent at least an extra week preparing. Ah Seng the grocer would haul in a literal forest of broad pandan leaves, several times thicker, sturdier and taller than the leaves used for kueh. They rested in the red plastic buckets in the outdoor kitchen. My mother would cut and blister her fingers as she used a paring knife to scrape down the thorns on the underside vein of each leaf.

179 Nonya Kueh Chang Glutinous Rice and Pork Dumplings wrapped in Pandan Leaf Around May of each year, my mother took orders for her famous kueh chang. They were known for being twiceBe assured that this is a scene of a mini factory where my mother would almost single- the size of the averagehandedly churn out a thousand of these dumplings to sell to friends who persuaded her kueh chang soldto make them. The recipe that follows is on a smaller scale. elsewhere. Anmakes 6 to 10 servings filling 20 g or ½ ounce Chinese mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes 230 g or 8 ounces candied melon (tang kueh) 600 g or 1 pound 5 ounces lean pork 70 g or 2½ ounces streaky indeliblepork (samchan bak) 70 g or 2½ ounces pork skin image of my mother(boil with pork stock until tender) ½ cup pork stock 20 g or ½ ounce garlic, peeled 70 g or 2½ ounces shallots or small red onions, peeled 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce would be of herLard for frying (or substitute with oil) 1 teaspoon salt standing forever beside115 g or 4 ounces sugar ½ tablespoon white pepper 15g or ½ ounce ground coriander (ketumbar), toasted until fragrant rice 1 kg or 2 pounds 3 ounces glutinous the dining table as sherice 5 to 6 drops of blue food colouring or ½cup dried clitoria (bunga telang) soaked in ½ cup water ¾ cup water ¼ tablespoon ground white pepper

filling (can be made a day ahead) rice 1. Remove the Chinese mushrooms from the water and 1. Scan the squeeze dry. Discard the hard stems. Slice the mushrooms into fine cubes, about sides of 0.5cm or ¼ inch. rice and 2. Similarly, slice the candied melon into cubes of the pick out same size. broken or 3. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Turn heat down t2r.ansparent to medium. Cook lean pork and streaky pork in the boiling ngrigahints water for about 30 to 40 minutes until tender. Boil the pork banefdo srme,all skin in pork stock until tender. Drain the meats individually rpienbsbel tehse. and set aside to cool. Chop each of these into small fine rYiocue tcharne deo cubes, sides of about 0.5 cm or ¼ inch. thimise dsays 3bu.enftoilr teh aet a 4. Pound the garlic and cut the shallots into thin slices. dmwaaoytr,ee drrain tlrehuiens usrirceely 5. Heat a wok and add some oil. Fry the garlic till light pgclraeacaienr..s from brown and remove from pan, then fry the sliced onions bSeoptha rpaottes. until light brown. Pa rtehpiradr eo fa ltahreg reice 6. Mix together the pork cubes and candied melon with satneda msoeark the dark soy sauce. ipto itn with a 4atr .paoyt a obfout 3 7. Heat one tablespoon of lard, fry the mushrooms for wccmoamt oebrrine salt 3 to 5 minutes and add pork mixture. Cook for 5 minutes. raphreSwwmtwchrotactrSbwwarwdmutr1aSte(qp5awr¾fgtbihhhhhhiiiiiei oonn.nnndnrvpopluuoeseoilcccccc aiahaaau iaomnlaeeeeee vleectpadaootodddrruam xeeeeee ttrttoiRketthi ce ueirtkpuulretcrteeee . wrtminahnhuspwiaiw ee hept rhartiup fod nshrrrrfeggtuitstcr nr k le iaomod l.. .tbhne ttrit oreahhhtidte)iseionttrloydhohhgernr h nloeiakiietoe wheet sofutn rtnidh eeeigaomgoe- seieivleogilcnlsdfptefeh. Add salt, sugar, white pepper, ground coriander, fried garlic and shallots. Add pork stock and cook over moderate heat for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool in basin. Drain off excess oil.

filling (can be made a day ahead) rice 1. Remove the Chinese mushrooms from the water and 1. Scan the squeeze dry. Discard the hard stems. Slice the mushrooms into fine cubes, about sides of 0.5cm or ¼ inch. rice and 2. Similarly, slice the candied melon into cubes of the pick out same size. broken or 3. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Turn heat down t2r. a nTshpearent to medium. Cook lean pork and streaky pork in the boiling ngrigahints water for about 30 to 40 minutes until tender. Boil the pork banefdo srme,all skin in pork stock until tender. Drain the meats individually rpienbsbel tehse. and set aside to cool. Chop each of these into small fine rYiocue tcharne deo cubes, sides of about 0.5 cm or ¼ inch. tihmise dsays u3b.en ft Toilhr teeh anete axt 4. Pound the garlic and cut the shallots into thin slices. wmdaaoytr,ee drrain lrtehuiens usrirceely 5. Heat a wok and add some oil. Fry the garlic till light pcglraeacaienr..s from brown and remove from pan, then fry the sliced onions Sbeoptha rpaottes. until light brown. aP rtehpiradr eo fa tlahreg reice 6. Mix together the pork cubes and candied melon with satneda msoeark the dark soy sauce. pito itn with a 4tar .pa oyMt a eobafonuwt h3ile, 7. Heat one tablespoon of lard, fry the mushrooms for ccwomamt oebrrine salt 3 to 5 minutes and add pork mixture. Cook for 5 minutes. mwtrSwrwdmurt5w¾tpathhoatqfgra(eS1rcweparrSwwbtacbihhhhhhiiiiiie oonn.nnnndrvpopuleouseoilcccccc haaiaaau aiomnlaeeeeee vleectpadaootdddorruam xeeeeee tttrtoiRketthi ce uiertkpuulretrcteeee . wrtminahnhuwspwaii ee hept rhartiup fod nshrrrrfeggtuitstcr nr k le iaomod l.. .tbhne ttrit oreahhhtidte)iseionttrloydhohhgernr h nloeiakiietoe wheet sofutn rtnidh eeeigaomgoe- seieivleogilcnlsdfptefeh. Add salt, sugar, white pepper, ground coriander, fried garlic and shallots. Add pork stock and cook over moderate heat for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool in basin. Drain off excess oil.



filling and wrapping 3. 1. Trim both ends of each leaf to neaten the edges. If using both bamboo leaves, prepare a pot of boiling water. Dip the leaves in the water briefly, then wipe them clean and dry. remaining 2. Take two leaves laid over each other, smooth side ends of facing you. Use one leaf if it is a big one. Fold over each end to form a cone, using the broader end as the top layer the leaf overlapping the smaller end. Both ends should face in the same direction as you form an inverted cone. Place half a towards handful of plain glutinous rice into the cupped leaf, along with a large pinch of blue rice. Press down to pack tightly, y4o. u and forming a little depression in the middle. Fill the hollow with froalfdfi oaver the meat filling—be generous—and top with more glutinous tshtrei nrigc eto to rice. Make sure to pack the rice and filling tightly. Do not fill ftoier mtig ahntly right to the top, leave some allowance. ianrvoeurntded 5tph.yeamid. emFvoielddrd ytl he1e 0of dleeauacmfh dpoliwngns, 6ttdoiu.e wm thrpaelp ifnrge,e akegnrouoidenuhsgn ocdhf athneg, asthtrdroediun 1ngds at dttleoauabgmselettpshlpienorgo t,no woftowfhr simicacelh ta. to a slbKahunrongoudetllde .be pmtiogothu otllfdye tdo baseto citluhinriseg wpthoaeitnetr i.nto Sad upbmymrpaelmirngigde. tsLheeaa vpbeeu.ndle oTsofrimme off destxurcmienpsgslings ilfenreaef., at bleoaislitn 3g0 wcmater and boro i1l2 for 2½ hinocuhress. Hang tlohnegm. up to drip dry. The dumplings are often

filling and wrapping 3. Fold 1. Trim both ends of each leaf to neaten the edges. If using both bamboo leaves, prepare a pot of boiling water. Dip the leaves in the water briefly, then wipe them clean and dry. remaining 2. Take two leaves laid over each other, smooth side ends of facing you. Use one leaf if it is a big one. Fold over each end to form a cone, using the broader end as the top layer the leaf overlapping the smaller end. Both ends should face in the same direction as you form an inverted cone. Place half a towards handful of plain glutinous rice into the cupped leaf, along with a large pinch of blue rice. Press down to pack tightly, y4o. u U asned a forming a little depression in the middle. Fill the hollow with froalfdfi oaver the meat filling—be generous—and top with more glutinous tshtrei nrigc eto to rice. Make sure to pack the rice and filling tightly. Do not fill tfoier mtig ahntly right to the top, leave some allowance. ainrvoeurntded 5tph.y e a Fmorid. emFvoielddrd ytl he1e 0of edleauacmfh dpoliwngns, tdt6iou.e wm tThropae lbp ifnorgiel,e ageknrouoidenuhsgn ocdhf athneg, asthtrdroediun 1ngds at dltteoauabgmselettpshlpienorgo t,no wtofowfhr simicacelh ta. to a lsKbahunrongoudetllde .be ptmiogothu otllfdye tdo bsaeto citluhinriseg twphoaeitnetr i.nto dSa upbmymrpaelmirngigde. Ltsheeaa vpbeeu.ndle soTofrimme off sedtxurcmienpsgslings filenreaef., at lbeoaislitn 3g0 cwmater and obro i1l2 for 2½ ihnocuhress. Hang ltohnegm. up to drip dry. The dumplings are often

50 pieces dried bamboo leaves Kaolak Chang Savoury Glutinous Rice Dumplings with Chestnuts and bTheicsa ius sme yo ff aitvso bPulruoitere rk. iTchee a Nndo nswyae ektu eyhet chang is special savoury taste, but my mother’s kaolak chang felt substantial with its filling of chestnuts, pork, dried shrimps and Chinese mushrooms. The variance in texture also tmitakiells a6 ttoe 1s0 t sherevin tgas stebuds. filling rice 70 g or 2½ ounces Chinese 600 g or 1 mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes pound 5 600 g or 1 pound 5 ounces pork ½ cuopunces leg fillet op3iel0an ggorui lucoutnertc i1neous 70 g or 2½ ounces dried shrimps, 40 gga orrli c1½, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes poueenlceeds 45 g or 1½ ounces garlic, peeled and 1fi vteea-asmpsshneppiaedniocllcoleeoendtds, pounded powdanerd ½ tesalsicpeodon 150 g or 5 ounces shallots or small salt finely red onions peeled and sliced finely 1 teaspoon 1 tablespoon salt 3 tablespoons sugar sugar 1 teaspoon five-spice powder 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce w4 rapping tmaabtleesripaolsons 230 g or 8 ounces chestnuts (kaolak), dark soy shelled and chopped roughly sa1 urcoell 1 raffia filling (can be made a day ahead) tablesstprionogn, lightc usoty 1. Drain the Chinese mushrooms and squeeze dry. Discard the hard stems. Slice the mushrooms thinly, about 0.5 cm 4sa.u c Hienteoat or ¼ inch in width. oil isontfr aips wokab. out 2. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Turn heat down 5F.r y I4n0 tchme to medium. Cook the pork in the boiling water for 30 to sgaamrolirec 1w6 ok, 40 minutes until tender. Drain and cool the pork. Chop tbmfrirlyulo lilstwonihhgncnehrghoetsoms the pork into cubes of about sides 1 cm or ½ inch. faonrd 3 to 5 rmeimnuotvees

Kaolak Chang ry Glutinous Rice ings with Chestnuts and kueh chang is special and sweet yet kaolak chang felt ng of chestnuts, pork, se mushrooms. The variance in nces Chinese rice s, soaked in hot water utes 600 g or 1 nces dried shrimps, pound 5 hot water for 30 minutes nces garlic, peeled and ½ cuopunces ces shallots or small op3iel0an gogrui lucoutnertc i1neous peeled and sliced finely 40 gga orrli c1½, (kaolak), poueenlceeds squeeze dry. Discard 1fi vteea-smpasshneppiaedniocllcoleeoendtds, hinly, about 0.5 cm powdanerd ½ tesalsicpeodon Turn heat down salt finely g water for 30 to l the pork. Chop 1 teaspoon sugar 4wrapping tmaabtleesripaolsons dark soy sa1 urcoell 1 raffia tablesstprionogn, lightc usoty 4sa.u c Hienteoat oil iosntfr aips wokab. out 5F.r y I4n0 tchme gsaamrolirec 1w6 ok, tbfmrirlyulo lilstwonihhgncnehrghoetsoms afonrd 3 to 5 mreimnuotvees