Growing Up In A Nyonya Kitchen

185 rice as you form an 1. Scan the rice and pick out broken grains and inverted small pebbles. You can do this days before at a more cone. leisurely pace. Place half a handful 2. The night before, rinse the glutinous rice three times of the until the water runs clear. Soak the rice in a pot with atictasLwolpckc6bftsetde5lfssLdtstKtlagdemtactsr4lgeTsapamsrwdtatlFptifctfyttlerb3trntatdtMrgmtpfwttFmidlfeiaeeeennnoooroihoohhhioihhhhhhiowohiiiiieahhhiehttotoounaxvno.ntnorner rllaoi.fruoruueyuoua.t.olgggeencgcpm hiaeaaaaa ruu l rrraooii tv rlrrmgwp oofoltceeeeeeeeeee ie moeac aa ocpuwtiplatcoddttibwldddpwntmmmmi ddee d hhhgi hiiimooyetffffssmmmlidnFttttFkenruTUuhceh uuuhhp hen rnnnvpkkkunmplem rcssortlrphi ..e .awafddde thitiittt,rattaeededbfnirroae oyeegotaotlrpppps ennn oeganneiiiige h tPggg l slllgenr i icartoioa dllltaootiorehn3s lcctaae.doorryyypa iks linlvehlseirllllheep.ehnd. ddddool1s stdkher,mtd ttdtiollapeee offiiiintf0endt, .ifwe resofonl.ge. 0i uehonnnn,ttuuebsi d foleoa.odn onparDtrtin roltt isgraggggenssohayefo wdtodgtagseo,,s.neeo, enough water to cover the rice. Leave overnight. 3. Next day, drain the rice grains. 4. Heat peanut oil in a wok and fry the minced garlic and shallots until light golden brown. Transfer to a plate lined with absorbent paper. In the same wok, add rice and season with the five-spice powder, salt, sugar and the dark and light soy sauces. Add in fried garlic and shallots. Transfer to a platter, spread and let this cool. filling and wrapping 1. Prepare a pot of boiling water. Dip the bamboo leaves in the water briefly, then wipe them clean and dry. 2. Take two leaves laid over each other, smooth side facing you. Use one leaf if it is a big one. Fold over each end to form a cone, using one end as the top layer overlapping the other end. Both ends should face in the same direction

185 rice as you form an 1. Scan the rice and pick out broken grains and inverted small pebbles. You can do this days before at a more cone. leisurely pace. Place half a handful 2. The night before, rinse the glutinous rice three times of the until the water runs clear. Soak the rice in a pot with sra4ltemTesdagpaaalmtswKdtttatsltFdipLifsstccffyltgt5erbet3rtdrtnetstatcttfablMr6gmtcsfkdwctFLppmiltdlofwteaeieeennnooiorooihhhoohihihhihoowihhhiiieahhohthttieoouxnnavo.rnoe trnnrllaiof.ruoruuyauuoe.t.oleegggngccpm aiheaaaaa ruu l rrraoiio tv rlrr mgpw foooltceeeeeeeeeee ie moea caa ocpuwtiplatcoddttwibldddwpntmmmmi ddee d hhhgi hiiimooyetfffssfmmmlindFttttFkenruTUucheh uuuhhp hen rnnnvpkkkunmplem rcssoltrhprki.. e . waafddde tithiittt,rattaeedefbdnirroae oyeegotaotlrpppps ennn ogaenneiiiig eh tPggg l slllgenr a i icartoioa dllltaootiorehn3sl cctaae.doorryyypa iks linlvehlseirllllheep.ehnd. ddddool1s stdkher,mtd ottdtiollapeee fofiiiintf0endt., ifwe resofoln.ge. 0i uehonnnn,ttuuebsi d foleloa.od nonparDtrtin rlotta isgraggggenssohayefo wdtodgtagseoks,.,neeo, enough water to cover the rice. Leave overnight. 3. Next day, drain the rice grains. 4. Heat peanut oil in a wok and fry the minced garlic and shallots until light golden brown. Transfer to a plate lined with absorbent paper. In the same wok, add rice and season with the five-spice powder, salt, sugar and the dark and light soy sauces. Add in fried garlic and shallots. Transfer to a platter, spread and let this cool. filling and wrapping 1. Prepare a pot of boiling water. Dip the bamboo leaves in the water briefly, then wipe them clean and dry. 2. Take two leaves laid over each other, smooth side facing you. Use one leaf if it is a big one. Fold over each end to form a cone, using one end as the top layer overlapping the other end. Both ends should face in the same direction

50 pieces dried bamboo leaves Kueh Chang Abu Glutinous Rice Dumplings served with Sweet Sauce After my mother had madeIn most recipes, you will not find the dark sweet all her Nonyasauce that complemented my mother’s kueh chang abu. She simply melted gula melaka into a syrup. kueh chang, she makes 6 to 10 servings 600 g or 1 pound 5 ounces glutinous rice also took the time to1 tablespoon alkaline water 1 tablespoon oil make two70 g or 2½ ounces cylinder of gula melaka wrapping materials 1 roll raffia other types of dumplings. This 4. the was considered the remaining ends of sweet one of the2. The night before, rinse the glutinous rice three times the leaves 5o.ver the until the water runs clear. Soak the rice in a pot with riacfefi. aFold sthtrei nlega tvoes three types ofenough water to cover the rice. Leave overnight. dt6io.ewn to wteivgreahrptyly 10 kueh3. Next day, drain the rice. Mix with the alkaline solution scka8daabwpcma7bftsetmoddatohwoihhton.trt ufueburuu.elhroi rgoeeaoaodelteunmmmid imteuceuhprnkuhnacs,ddhaegtlpppnai h cglg dlltoehsas.deerlllehdshe fiiiteef.nnn edrtrggghe t,seeo, and oil and set aside for 30 minutes. chang and actedfilling and wrapping 1. Prepare a pot of boiling water. Dip the bamboo leaves in the water briefly, then wipe them clean and dry. wlikhee rae adse stsheer tothers2. Take two leaves laid over each other, smooth side

50 pieces dried bamboo leaves Kueh Chang Abu Glutinous Rice Dumplings served with Sweet Sauce After my mother had madeIn most recipes, you will not find the dark sweet all her Nonyasauce that complemented my mother’s kueh chang abu. She simply melted gula melaka into a syrup. kueh chang, she makes 6 to 10 servings 600 g or 1 pound 5 ounces glutinous rice also took the time to1 tablespoon alkaline water 1 tablespoon oil make two70 g or 2½ ounces cylinder of gula melaka wrapping materials 1 roll raffia string, cut other types of into strips each about 40 dumplings. This 4. cFmo lodr 16 theinches long wswaese tc oonnsei doefr tehde the2. The night before, rinse the glutinous rice three times remriaceining tehnedp1r sli.i cec e okaS afcvonauendts the o5.v e bUrr sotkehe ean or until the water runs clear. Soak the rice in a pot with raicfeftri. aaFnospldarent tshtreig nlreagai ntvsoes three types ofenough water to cover the rice. Leave overnight. edtt6wiivo.egr e wah acsFrtpantnyoonldny r 1tdseo0mos. taYhlolisu kueh3. Next day, drain the rice. Mix with the alkaline solution ebma8ptafcttsdomsaakwbactd7dohwiohthon. rttufuebuuru.el h rio r goe eao aodelteunmmmi d imapdlTteuTceuhprnkuhenacs,ddthaaaeogtiolpppn ai h cglgycs adlltoehsas.deeuesrlllehd she mfiiit. eref.bnnn eedrtroelggghe yrftoes,eeor,e and oil and set aside for 30 minutes. chang and actedfilling and wrapping 1. Prepare a pot of boiling water. Dip the bamboo leaves in the water briefly, then wipe them clean and dry. lwikhee rae adse stsheer tothers2. Take two leaves laid over each other, smooth side



Kueh Ku Glutinous Rice Flour Cakes filled with Mung Bean Paste These usually come in red to symboliseI still have my mother’s old wooden moulds. A good mould would have an inside pattern good luck.carved deep and clear so that the shape and intricate design would come out beautifully. In fact, theymakes 6 to 10 servings filling 1.2 kg or 2½ pounds mung beans, without skin 8 pandan leaves, tied into a knot 1.4 kg or 3 pounds sugar can be found1 cup water black essence 90 g or 3 ounces mugwort leaves (daun ramay) 1 cup water in five½ cup coconut milk 340 g or 12 ounces white sugar 110 g or 4 ounces gula melaka, scraped dough 280 g or 10 ounces sweet potato, colours—peeled and cubed 2¼ cups coconut milk 170 g or 6 ounces sugar red, black,¼ cup hot water 450 g or 1 pound glutinous rice flour 5 drops red food colouring or ½ teaspoon blue, greenred food colouring powder 1 teaspoon pandan essence moulding materials ½ cup coconut oil or vegetable oil. and white—8 to 10 but I have banana leaves, scalded and

Kueh Ku Glutinous Rice Flour Cakes filled with Mung Bean Paste These usually come in red to symboliseI still have my mother’s old wooden moulds. A good mould would have an inside pattern good luck.carved deep and clear so that the shape and intricate design would come out beautifully. In fact, theymakes 6 to 10 servings filling 1.2 kg or 2½ pounds mung beans, without skin 8 pandan leaves, tied into a knot 1.4 kg or 3 pounds sugar can be found1 cup water black essence 90 g or 3 ounces mugwort leaves (daun ramay) 1 cup water in five½ cup coconut milk 340 g or 12 ounces white sugar 110 g or 4 ounces gula melaka, scraped dough 280 g or 10 ounces sweet potato, colours—peeled and cubed 2¼ cups coconut milk 170 g or 6 ounces sugar red, black,¼ cup hot water 450 g or 1 pound glutinous rice flour 5 drops red food colouring or ½ teaspoon blue, greenred food colouring powder 1 teaspoon pandan essence moulding materials ½ cup coconut oil or vegetable oil. and white—8 to 10 but I have banana leaves, scalded and



black essence moulding 1. Boil the mugwort leaves in a cup of water until 1. Divide leaves are thick and soft and the liquid is concentrated to the 2 tablespoons’ worth. Strain the liquid and set aside. Then dough pound the leaves until very fine. i2n. to areoctbitwmw3odiubnnhhomab.rnaoosiootsu eeictlotue1ooniluhhhn½ud sg bdgla ,dtehodae di4olnlli.f socf 2. Combine the pounded leaves, concentrated liquid, ipnaclhmess. in coconut milk, sugar and gula melaka in a saucepan. Bring dPilaamcee ater. to boil over low heat until the mixture is thick and pasty. ball of dough 1. Boil sweet potatoes until tender. Mash while still hot. 2. Meanwhile, bring the coconut milk and sugar to a boil. 3. Combine 90 g or 3 ounces of glutinous rice flour and bean water to form a paste. paste in 4. Place the remaining glutinous rice flour in a bowl and the make a well in the centre. Add the paste of glutinous rice flour and water into the well, followed by a slow stream of 4m.iddle of coconut milk mixture. Knead to form a fine dough. Blend ath set edaismc,er. in the mashed sweet potatoes. Divide the dough into Sovteearmlap the two portions. kthuee hedges ganendt rlyoll obvaeckr lionwto 5. For the first portion, add the red food colouring and *ktbat5htDmfhpbmtcaNoouho. nueraeeobiaOr preuvaaasedan a nsnT 1etshnt oulrhlEe 0 horlittfat,.egihto entctdhoehhskgt.eely a teaspoon of pandan essence. This is for the red dough. 6. For the second portion, add the black essence prepared earlier. This is for the black dough.* 7. Place the dough in their individual bowls and cover m12wrotacr5asadpbsYbackTlbetcowucdwTisldtohtpwfdamwtmbPeoteeuke iohrhhnnnaolof hloox nuctiioaaaaoaoniladarasddailoioibaislleasgoi dduuuhpeeataovacokettrmnlnclmm euwd.s ddtaseektfofpd d lg mo chuphhxkitru1eerectotplWho raa.g hpned y yhpeieidethpnoeaglrhp ,i lrs rtorengretnnfhysry isdt lenode usoewrs aeosanhdht e w so ooaa ntattiepru,tnghwe egeifmhuo hnsi cslentntieesfredhhlhe.alef each bowl with a damp cloth. Red Eggs20 eggs 1 teaspoon salt 5 tablespoons red food colouring

black essence moulding 1. Boil the mugwort leaves in a cup of water until 1. Divide leaves are thick and soft and the liquid is concentrated to the 2 tablespoons’ worth. Strain the liquid and set aside. Then dough pound the leaves until very fine. i2n. t oBrush abeocrtitwmw3odiubnnhhomab.rnoaosio ost uee ictlotue1 oonilFuhhhn½ud sg bdglla ,dtehaodae dti4olnltli.f esoncf 2. Combine the pounded leaves, concentrated liquid, ipnaclhmess. in coconut milk, sugar and gula melaka in a saucepan. Bring dPilaamcee ater. to boil over low heat until the mixture is thick and pasty. ball of dough 1. Boil sweet potatoes until tender. Mash while still hot. 2. Meanwhile, bring the coconut milk and sugar to a boil. 3. Combine 90 g or 3 ounces of glutinous rice flour and bean water to form a paste. paste in 4. Place the remaining glutinous rice flour in a bowl and the make a well in the centre. Add the paste of glutinous rice flour and water into the well, followed by a slow stream of 4m. i d Pdrleep oafre coconut milk mixture. Knead to form a fine dough. Blend ath set edaismc,er. in the mashed sweet potatoes. Divide the dough into Sovteearmlap the two portions. kthuee hedges ganendt rlyoll obvaeckr lionwto 5. For the first portion, add the red food colouring and *ktbat5htDmfhpbmtcaNohouo. nueraeeob iaOr pre uvaaaseda n a TnsnT 1etshnt oulrhlEre 0 horlittfata:,.eighto entctndhoehhskgst.eeflyer a teaspoon of pandan essence. This is for the red dough. 6. For the second portion, add the black essence prepared earlier. This is for the black dough.* 7. Place the dough in their individual bowls and cover w1mrotacr5asadpbsYbackTlbetcowucdwTisldtohtpwfd2amwtmbPoeteeuke iohrhhnnnaol fohoolx nuctiioaaaaooaniladarasddailoioibaisllesagoid duuuhpaeetaovacokettrmnlnclmm euwd.s ddtaseektfofpd d lg mo chuphhxkitru1eerectotplWho raa. ghpned y yhpeieidethpnoeaglrhp ,i lrs rtoren gretnnfhysry isd tlenodem usoewrs aeosanhdht e wso ooaa ntattiepru,tnghwe egeifmhouo hnsi cslentntiieesfredhhlshe.altef, each bowl with a damp cloth. Red Eggs20 eggs 1 teaspoon salt 5 tablespoons red food colouring

1 teaspoon oil Yew Peng Mixed Savoury Glutinous Rice Yew peng was given out to friends and relatives when we had a new baby in the family. My mother’s was so delicious because she added a lot of toppings to the base of glutinous rice and garnished it with lots of coriander leaves (cilantro). makes 6 to 10 servings 40 g or 1½ ounces 450 g or 1 pound glutinous rice dried 1½ teaspoons light soy sauce shrimps, 1½ teaspoons dark soy sauce Salt to taste 30 gso oark 1ed ionu nhcoet 200 g or 7 ounces streaky pork (samchan bak) 30 gsw oharatlelorts, ssC1 la1hoi ucibunesunf(pllfcmsaadeeecoinloncegnsiaaiirerccedleenesv aihela,aulteendyt nstd3tedr0soe)r, 20 g or ¾ ounce Chinese mushrooms, soaked in hot water for at least chopped 30 minutes 1. Scan the rice and pick out broken grains and 5. Lay out small pebbles. You can do this days before at a more a round leisurely pace. metal tray, about 30 2. The night before, rinse the glutinous rice three times cm or 12 until the water runs clear. Soak the rice in a pot with inches in enough water to cover the rice. Leave overnight. diameter. 6B.r u Csoho tkhe 3. On the next day, drain the rice grains and put them ttrhaey t wraiyth in a steamer. When the rice is cooked, transfer it to a large oo7.fi l r. T iLcoiene the tray, toss and spread out the cooked rice to cool. fbsoearrs v4ee 5o, f the tpmrlainycuet aes 2. Combine light and dark soy sauce and salt in a bowl. lwianir taghe the sCsteheriavnmienseger. 3. Slice the streaky pork finely into thin strips. Strain the psalautstaegre, Chinese mushrooms, remove the stems and slice finely. othve rp tohrek, Strain the dried shrimps. Add pork, mushrooms and dried tCrhaiynese shrimps to the soy sauce mixture. manuds thurronoms

Yew Peng Mixed Savoury Glutinous Rice t to friends and relatives when we icious because she added a lot of th lots of coriander leaves Chinese mushrooms, 40 g or 1½ t water for at least ounces dried s rice three times shrimps, ns and put them 30 gso oark 1ed transfer it to a large oinu nhcoet nd salt in a bowl. 30 gsw oharatlelorts, in strips. Strain the s1Cs al1hoi ucibunesun(lsfamfclpadeecionloncegnsiaaiirerccedleenevs aihela,aulteendyt nstd3tedr0soe)r, s and slice finely. ushrooms and dried chopped 5. Lay out a round metal tray, about 30 cm or 12 inches in diameter. 6B.r u Csoho tkhe tthraey t wraiyth oo7.fi l r. T iLcoiene the fbsoearrs v4ee 5o, f the tpmrlainycuet aes lwianir taghe the Cssteheriavnmienseger. spalautstaegre, tohve rp tohrek, tCrhaiynese amnuds thurronoms

Mooncakes My mother lovedMy mother learnt to make mooncakes from the Chinese dimsum chef who worked in mooncakes.the Stadium restaurant that my father managed in the 1970s. She acquired a repertoire of I do too.dimsum skills. I recall that Ah Yew often came to our I stillYarrow Gardens house in the evenings to dAesm wointhst ara fteew t oo tmhye rm doimthseurm h orwec itpoe ms, aykoeu m woilol nceaekdes. prefer theOalvkearl itniem seo, lmutyi omno atnhde rw mhadt ew seu tcehrm agso oHdo nmgo Koonncagk felos uthr.a Tth ais fulsouuarl ,t yhpeer fisr iesnsdesn ptiearlslyuaded traditionalhPsureeprpA etarosm r wmeidilatl ehlkod ekt auunse dhse hkseeudln,l ptcthaehes,e t mswee ooi tsroo ead vtreheanfeil immanbe.oldeu.,l dessp tehcaita lhlya vaer oaund lengyongdtheee pMeor oanncda skhea Frpesetri vcaalr vseinagso wno. uld produce a more brilliant pattern on the mooncake. makes 12 to 18 servings 18 salted eggs (lotus seed) paste with325 g or 11½ ounces Hong Kong flour 325 g or 11½ ounces plain flour the450 g or 1 pound golden syrup ¾ tablespoon corn oil 1 tablespoon alkaline water 1.35 kg or 3 pounds lotus seed paste preserved1 egg, beaten (for egg wash) 1. Steam the eggs for 5 minutes over low heat. Peel the egg yolks,salted eggs and remove the egg white portion. 7. mooncake the more2. Sift the Hong Kong and plain flour into a large bowl. mould Make a well in the middle. Pour in the golden syrup, corn oil with some oil. Place a yolks theand alkaline solution. Knead gently into a dough. Set aside ball for half an hour. of dough merrier. containing 3. Meanwhile, pinch the lotus seed paste into balls, lotus paste into the each weighing about 70 g or 2½ ounces. Wrap a ball of mould 8ca. vity. Use lotus paste around each egg yolk. Arrange the balls on a cookie sheet.

Mooncakes My mother lovedMy mother learnt to make mooncakes from the Chinese dimsum chef who worked in mooncakes.the Stadium restaurant that my father managed in the 1970s. She acquired a repertoire of I do too.dimsum skills. I recall that Ah Yew often came to our I stillYarrow Gardens house in the evenings to dAesm wointhst ara fteew t oo tmhye rm doimthseurm h orwec itpoe ms, aykoeu m woilol nceaekdes. prefer theaOlvkearl itniem seo, lmutyi omno atnhde rw mhadt ew seu tcehrm agso oHdo nmgo Koonncagk felos uthr.a Tth ais fulsouuarl ,t yhpeer fisr iesnsdesn ptiearlslyuaded traditionalshPureeprpA etarosm r wmeidilatl ehlkod ekt auunse dhse hkseeudln,l ptcthaehes,e t mswee ooi tsroo ead vtreheanfeil immanbe.oldeu.,l dessp tehcaita lhlya vaer oaund dtheee pMeor oanncda skhea Frpesetri vcaalr vseinagso wno. uld lengyongproduce a more brilliant pattern on the mooncake. makes 12 to 18 servings 18 salted eggs (lotus seed) paste with325 g or 11½ ounces Hong Kong flour 325 g or 11½ ounces plain flour the450 g or 1 pound golden syrup ¾ tablespoon corn oil 1 tablespoon alkaline water 1.35 kg or 3 pounds lotus seed paste preserved1 egg, beaten (for egg wash) 1. Steam the eggs for 5 minutes over low heat. Peel the egg yolks,salted eggs and remove the egg white portion. 7. Dab the mooncake the more2. Sift the Hong Kong and plain flour into a large bowl. mould Make a well in the middle. Pour in the golden syrup, corn oil with some oil. Place a yolks theand alkaline solution. Knead gently into a dough. Set aside ball for half an hour. of dough merrier. containing 3. Meanwhile, pinch the lotus seed paste into balls, lotus paste into the each weighing about 70 g or 2½ ounces. Wrap a ball of mould 8ca. v Bitayk. eUse lotus paste around each egg yolk. Arrange the balls on a cookie sheet.





195 Mee Sua Fine Rice Noodles in Soup with Meatballs My mother observed our birthdays on both the Chinese and Western calenders. Our Chinese lunar birth dates and animal zodiac signs were recorded on square white pieces of cloth, inked in Chinese characters. My mother had the habit of slotting her jewellery, cash and suchEa fcahm yielya dr,o scoummeetnimtse b celohsine dt oh eoru cr uWpebsotaerdns b ainrtdh udanyd,e wr e twhoeu plda pwear kseli pusp l itnoi nfign dh ehre drrawers. Sphreep raarrienlgy btoirothk dthayo sme ecelo stuhas . o“uItt’ sa ynodu wr Ce hhianvees en beviretrh fdoauyn sdo ythoeum m. ust eat this for long life,” was her command. I gather that she must have referred to these white cloths to recall our lunar birth dates. The birthday breakfast consisted of rice vermicelli served in a sweet syrup with one hard-boiled or half-boiled egg. I never knew howT hteo rreecaicpte b beeclaouws eis t nhoe tn tohoed slweseet version. It is the uwseurael vmereye sswueae tth iantd weeed a bteu tm I owreas always terribly flattered tchoamt mmoyn mlyo ftohre br rweaokuflads gt oo ra w lohnegn we did not feel too well. Mwayy c thoil ednresnu rleo vI eh aitd a an dlo intg t a(hkeesnce the noodles) and sweet (vreerpyr leistetlnet teidm bey t oth me asykreu. p) life. makes 4 servings 2 cups Chinese chick (e.g. Swanson bra 230 g or 8 ounces minced pork with 1 cube chick 1 teaspoon light soy sauce (e.g. Knorr brand Dash of white pepper powder 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 bundles 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced fine rice vermicelli 1. Combine the minced pork, light soy sauce and (mee sua white pepper. Fashion lightly into meatballs 1 egg, optional S3a. l t Dtorop tmaseteatballs into the

Mee Sua Fine Rice Noodles in Soup with Meatballs My mother observed our birthdays on both the Chinese and Western calenders. Our Chinese lunar birth dates and animal zodiac signs were recorded on square white pieces of cloth, inked in Chinese characters. My mother had the habit of slotting her jewellery, cash and suchEa fcahm yielya dr,o scoummeetnimtse b celohsine dt oh eoru cr uWpebsotaerdns b ainrtdh udanyd,e wr e twhoeu plda pwear kseli pusp l itnoi nfign dh ehre drrawers. Sphreep raarrienlgy btoirothk dthayo sme ecelo stuhas . o“uItt’ sa ynodu wr Ce hhianvees en beviretrh fdoauyn sdo tyhoeum m. ust eat this for long life,” was her command. I gather that she must have referred to these white cloths to recall our lunar birth dates. The birthday breakfast consisted of rice vermicelli served in a sweet syrup with one hard-boiled or half-boiled egg. I never knew howT hteo rreecaicpte b beeclaouws eis t nhoe tn tohoed slweseet version. It is the were vmereye sswueae tth iantd weeed a bteu tm I owreas always terribly flattered cthoamt mmoyn mlyo ftohre br rweaokuflads gt oo ra w lohnegn we did not feel too well. Mwayy c thoil ednresnu rleo vI eh aitd a an dlo intg t a(hkeesnce the noodles) and sweet (vreerpyr leistetlnet teidm bey t oth me asykreu. p) life. makes 4 servings 2 cups Chinese chicken broth (e.g. Swanson brand) or 2 cups water 230 g or 8 ounces minced pork with 1 cube chicken flavouring 1 teaspoon light soy sauce (e.g. Knorr brand) Dash of white pepper powder 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 bundles 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced fine rice vermicelli he minced pork, light soy sauce and (mee sua) Fashion lightly into meatballs 1 egg, optional 3Sa. l t Dtorop mtaseteatballs into the

Kueh Ee Red and White Glutinous Rice Balls in Syrup My mother used to celebrate Tang Chek, amakes 4 servings 230 g or 8 ounces glutinous rice flour 1 cup water ½ teaspoon red food colouring 230 g or 8 ounces sugar Chinese 4 cups water 3 pandan leaves, tied into a knot 1. Place the glutinous rice flour in a festivalbowl and make a well in the centre. Add the 1 cup of water, a little at a time, in during thethe middle. Use your hands or a metal spoon to mix the flour and water together to form a dough. Stop adding the water as soon as you obtain a nice consistency, to avoid making the dough too sticky. Winter 3. bring the Solstice sugar, 4 cups of water and in 4pa. ndan taon oa tbhoeirl in a December.2. Divide the dough into two portions .Add the red food plaortg. eS ptiort until tohf ew sautgearr colouring to one and knead well. Shape the dough to dtois as obloviel s. 5a.nd drop The dayform little round balls of equal size, each about the size the of a marble, 1.5 cm or ¾ inch in diameter.

Kueh Ee Red and White Glutinous Rice Balls in Syrup My mother used to celebrate Tang Chek, amakes 4 servings 230 g or 8 ounces glutinous rice flour 1 cup water ½ teaspoon red food colouring 230 g or 8 ounces sugar Chinese 4 cups water 3 pandan leaves, tied into a knot 1. Place the glutinous rice flour in a festivalbowl and make a well in the centre. Add the 1 cup of water, a little at a time, in during thethe middle. Use your hands or a metal spoon to mix the flour and water together to form a dough. Stop adding the water as soon as you obtain a nice consistency, to avoid making the dough too sticky. Winter 3. Meanwhile, bring the Solstice sugar, 4 cups of water and in p4a. n Bdraing leaves taon oa tbhoeirl in a December.2. Divide the dough into two portions .Add the red food plaortg. eS ptiort until tohf ew sautgearr colouring to one and knead well. Shape the dough to dtois as obloviel s. 5a.n d D disrcoaprd The dayform little round balls of equal size, each about the size the of a marble, 1.5 cm or ¾ inch in diameter.





The Secrets of Arab Street My father was a sales manager for Fraser and Neave (F&N), then bottlers of Coca-Cola and producers of the local Tiger beer. He was offered the desirable job at a young age because of his soccer skills. My father was recruited to play for the Playing company team against the for the various trading houses established by the Fraser British. At F&N, as it was usually called, he handled several and wcIanoci mectxohpcu ahmnnayatn spng aeayr fn tooidrfe smhf otiyosr fc graaeetthdseetr cra’lsuo trsiapens f otr nice ulnipedcnosthmsi,ipnsg Nfeoaovteball including a famous Indian- team as a Centre Right. My father is in the front row, seco from righ

The Secrets of Arab Street My father was a sales manager for Fraser and Neave (F&N), then bottlers of Coca-Cola and producers of the local Tiger beer. He was offered the desirable job at a young age because of his soccer skills. My father was recruited to play for the Playing company team against the for the various trading houses established by the Fraser British. At F&N, as it was and usually called, he handled several cawInoci mectxohpcu ahmnnayatn spng aeayr fn tooidrfe smhf otiyosr fc graaeetthdseetr cra’lsuo trsiapens f otr nice ulnipedcnosthmsi,ipnsg Nfeoaovteball including a famous Indian- team as a Centre Right. My father is in the front row, second from right.

creations. There, up the flight of creaky wooden stairs to often a an air-conditioned room, the shop assistant served her particularly F&N Orange Crush in its glass bottle with a green straw. delicious Later, she would shop for a few yards of fabric for dresses and she wanted to make for herself, haggling with the Indian- fragrant Muslim salesman before he would snip the textile from a orange ream and fold the piece of cloth several times into a floppy cake. It is square. Those were her activities during her Arab Street amazing excursion, often with me in tow. Thhowe wchoimldhenofoodlk My mother also befriended a network of Arab and tmoeomk doariyess Indonesian ladies who were renowned for their cakes and ctoa np rsetpayare Malay dishes such as soto ayam (page 212) and lontong wthiethse you (page 208). She sought to be mentored by them. The ffeoaresvtse.r A. nd Indonesian ladies were experts at the lapis spekkoek Twoh tilheis day, (page 114) and my mother was always open to learning It haem always new tips on how to improve her baking skills. Cik Wan, tferysitnivgi toiuest Khatijah and Rabeah were the ones we recall the most, as carTwctoiponaeoanufhleadk ckmd terocieisesapenerpieeydeagld se,nae st rpgoeceeanesnte. s their names are scribbled at the top right hand corner of my mother’s recipes. Their baking classes took place in their kitchens on many lazy schoolday afternoons, an intimate homely affair in a tree-lined residential street with children playing outside on their bicycles or picking pebbles. We attended the lavish wedding banquets thrown by a few of these Arab and Indonesian families. Many of them were actually related by marriage, back when these prominent Arab families were residing in Indonesia. The patriarch of one such family lived in Telok Kurau, not too far from where my parents and grandparents had once lived. These elaborate wedding affairs demonstrated the ladies’ talent and dedication because the meals, pastries, costumes and crafts were all home-made. I recall as a child, attending these wedding celebrations in their extensive garden compound. The lawn would be filled with dining tables and an endless supply of food would be brought out on

creations. There, up the flight of creaky wooden stairs to often a an air-conditioned room, the shop assistant served her particularly F&N Orange Crush in its glass bottle with a green straw. delicious Later, she would shop for a few yards of fabric for dresses and she wanted to make for herself, haggling with the Indian- fragrant Muslim salesman before he would snip the textile from a orange ream and fold the piece of cloth several times into a floppy cake. It is square. Those were her activities during her Arab Street amazing excursion, often with me in tow. Thhowe wchoimldhenofoodlk My mother also befriended a network of Arab and tmoeomk doariyess Indonesian ladies who were renowned for their cakes and ctoa np rsetpayare Malay dishes such as soto ayam (page 212) and lontong wthiethse you (page 208). She sought to be mentored by them. The ffeoaresvtse.r A. nd Indonesian ladies were experts at the lapis spekkoek Twoh tilheis day, (page 114) and my mother was always open to learning It haem always new tips on how to improve her baking skills. Cik Wan, tferysitnivgi toiuest Khatijah and Rabeah were the ones we recall the most, as carTwctoiponaeoanufhleadk ckmd terocieisesapenerpieeydeagld se,nae st rpgoeceeanesnte. s their names are scribbled at the top right hand corner of my mother’s recipes. Their baking classes took place in their kitchens on many lazy schoolday afternoons, an intimate homely affair in a tree-lined residential street with children playing outside on their bicycles or picking pebbles. We attended the lavish wedding banquets thrown by a few of these Arab and Indonesian families. Many of them were actually related by marriage, back when these prominent Arab families were residing in Indonesia. The patriarch of one such family lived in Telok Kurau, not too far from where my parents and grandparents had once lived. These elaborate wedding affairs demonstrated the ladies’ talent and dedication because the meals, pastries, costumes and crafts were all home-made. I recall as a child, attending these wedding celebrations in their extensive garden compound. The lawn would be filled with dining tables and an endless supply of food would be brought out on

2 teaspoons salt Nasi Biryani Rice Cooked in Ghee, served with Chicken in Spicy Gravy My friend Anita whoIt is often thought that the South East Asian version uses coconut milk, curry leaves hails fromand green chillies. The recipe below actually uses Kerala makesevaporated milk and a meat curry powder which my mother sourced from the wet market. I never biryani usingrecalled her adding her own home- made curry powder which was a Nonya version. Using a only herready-made powder differed from the recipes of my Indian friends who may have ground mother’s recipe.their own fresh spice paste at the same time as they prepared this dish. I am very particular Anabout the brand of ghee I use. makes 6 to 10 servings 600 g or 1 pound 5 ounces basmati rice Water to I find gheep tarobo bil eric eone of the richest and most flavourful acquaintanceingredients, so it is important to who is descendeduse a brand that imparts a palatable taste. 1 whole chicken, each cut into 8 to 10 pieces 1 cardamom pod (buah pelaga) 1 small piece cassia from abark (kayu manis) 3 cloves (bunga chingkay) ½ teaspoon cumin (jintan puteh) ½ teaspoon chilli powder 30 g or 1 Rajasthaniounce ginger, skinned and julienned 45 g or 1½ ounces garlic, peeled 250 g or 9 ounces ghee (preferably maharajahQBB brand) 150 g or 5 ounces shallots, peeled and sliced finely 1 teaspoon biryani chicken spice boasted that hispowder (suggest Shan brand), mixed with 1 tablespoon water into a slurry 2 tomatoes, quartered 2 tablespoons tomato purée 1 bunch mint leaves, stemmed and plucked ½ cup evaporated milk,



3 cups water 1. Rinse the rice until the water runs clear, about three tomatoes times. Soak the rice for 30 minutes in cold water after are rinsing, ensuring that the water level is well over 10 cm or softened. 4 inches above the level of the rice. Add 1 teaspoon salt and Pour in parboil the rice until it is three-quarters cooked. Strain the h5.a l Pf olafc tehe parboiled rice in a colander and set aside. ehvaalfp oofr tahted mpairlkb.oiled 2. Meanwhile, rinse the chicken and pat dry. Leave aside rAidced itnh ea or refrigerate. lcahrigcek epnot and sccoookp 3. Grind the cardamom, cassia, cloves, cumin, chilli tohne a cllu srirdyes powder, ginger and garlic into a fine paste. gtor asveya lover tjuhiec erisc,e. 4. Heat a pan and add the ghee. Fry the sliced shallots Aabrroaunt g5e tm6h. ie n Guatrensi.sh till light golden brown and set aside on a plate lined with cSwheiiatchsk otenhne absorbent paper. To the same pan, add the ground paste owfrviietehrd the and the biryani chicken spice slurry, followed by the rsiehcmael.al oTinthsien,ng tomatoes, tomato purée and mint leaves. Fry until the cscaoolrvtie.arn tdheer clehaivckese nand wgriethen the ochthilelire hs.alf pStoirrt iino nth oef Nasi Minyakroipctei.onal Climome bjuinicee. Rice Cooked in Ghee, to the accompany gravy disheserevmapaoinraintegd Nasi minyak provides a tasteful pairing for the gravy ofmilk, a kormaks teaspoon and rendangs. When serving nasi minyak, my mother of salt, yellow would throw food in her achar pickles as a side dish. colouring makes 6 to 10 servings and rose mt1wDaibraniltcezeeszpdrlo.eon 900 g or 2 pounds basmati rice ¾gsion clguueprtion e½evvaepnorlayted 110 g or 4 ounces ghee (preferably QBB brand) 70 g or 2½ ounces shallots,

lear, about three tomatoes old water after are s well over 10 cm or softened. d 1 teaspoon salt and Pour in s cooked. Strain the h5.a l Pf olafc tehe ehvaalfp oofr tahted mpairlkb.oiled at dry. Leave aside Aridced itnh ea clahrigcek epnot and sccoookp othne a cllu srirdyes tgor asveya lover jtuhiec erisc,e. e sliced shallots aAbrroaunt g5e m6th. ie n Guatrensi.sh a plate lined with Swcheiiatchsk otenhne the ground paste wforviietehrd the es. Fry until the rseihcmael.al oTinthsien,ng sccaoolvrtie.arn tdheer lcehaivckese nand gwriethen the cohthilelire hs.alf Sptoirrt iino nth oef Nasi Minyakoripctei.onal lCimome bjuinicee. ice Cooked in Ghee, to the ccompany gravy disheserevmapaoinraintegd tasteful pairing for the gravy ofmilk, a teaspoon nasi minyak, my mother of salt, yellow food colouring and rose 1tmDwaibraniltcezeeszpdrlo.eon g¾sion clguueprtion ee½vvaepnorlayted

2 tablespoons coriander powder 2 teaspoons black pepper cloves Ikan Masak 3 tablespoons oil Ceylon Fish Cooked Ceylon Style My mother often asked me tomakes 4 to 6 servings 3 to 4 steaks of mackerel (ikan tenggiri), read this particulareach 5 cm or 2 inch thick recipe to her, given 120 g or 4 1 teaspoon cumin (jintan puteh) 1 teaspoon fennel (jintan manis) by one of her Malay30 dried chillies, deseeded 6 cloves garlic, peeled 20 shallots, peeled and quartered friends. The fish tasted good and that 4. the is why I always2. Grind the coriander, cumin, fennel, black pepper and assam dried chilli, garlic, ginger and shallots. and add 3. Heat a saucepan and add oil. When the oil is glistening, 5th. e juice to ath seerving had it in mind togently fry the spice paste. Add the fish steaks. spalautcteepr.an. include it. BGrairnngi stho a wboitilh, then cloowriearn tdoe ar lseimavmeser u(cniltailn tthreo) fainsdh sisliced chooilklieds. through, and the gravy thickens.

2 tablespoons coriander powder 2 teaspoons black pepper cloves Ikan Masak 3 tablespoons oil Ceylon Fish Cooked Ceylon Style My mother often asked me tomakes 4 to 6 servings 3 to 4 steaks of mackerel (ikan tenggiri), read this particulareach 5 cm or 2 inch thick recipe to her, given 120 g or 4 1 teaspoon cumin (jintan puteh) 1 teaspoon fennel (jintan ounces manis) tamarind (assam) by one of her paste, Malay30 dried chillies, deseeded 6 cloves garlic, peeled 20 shallots, soaked in peeled and quartered 1½ cup hot water friends. The fish Salt to taste 1 tasted good and that2. Grind the coriander, cumin, fennel, black pepper and 4. bSutnrcahin is why I alwaysdried chilli, garlic, ginger and shallots. thecleoarviaensder ass(acimlantro), andst aemdmd ed 3. Heat a saucepan and add oil. When the oil is glistening, 5th. e GT jrrueaeicnne safnedr pstoala uatrcsthcelh tsideiceeleplrirde.avsn,in. g had it in mind togently fry the spice paste. Add the fish steaks. BGrairlnenngig stthhow aise include it. bwoiti1lh., t Rhiensne cloowrtiheaern ftdioseh ar sul(ecinmailtspvaitmaelnet ats etdkhrrrseoy a.)nd afinsdh sisliced cohoilklieds. through, and the gravy thickens.

8 to 10 red chillies Ayam Panggang Spicy Grilled Chicken When I tire of the usual roast chicken seasoned makes 4 to 6 servings 1 whole chicken, cut into 20 shallots, with rosemary,8 to 10 pieces 2.5 cm or 1 inch galangal (lengkuas), skinned and julienned 2.5 cm or 1 inch turmeric (kunyit), thyme, garlic andskinned and julienned 2 stalks lemon grass (seray), upperpeeled and quartered stalks and outer layers removed, 2 heads sliced thinly lemon juice, garlic, peeled ½ I resort to a spicyccuupps oil 1¾ coconut grilled version thamretislekr,ve gives me more zestccroecaomnu 1t tablespoon than the common2. Grind the galangal, turmeric, lemon grass, red chillies, tamarind (assam), roast chickenshallots and garlic into a fine spice paste. soaked in ½ cup hot 3. Heat a Dutch oven and add the oil. When the oil is water Salt Sugar usually does. It isglistening, gently fry the spice paste over low heat until 1. Rinse fragrant, being careful not to burn the spice paste. Add the the chicken good enough to eatchicken pieces. Pour in the coconut milk, reserving the top pieces and layer of coconut cream for use later. Turn up the heat and pat dry. with plain whitebring to a boil. Strain the tamarind liquid and pour into the pot. Lower heat to a simmer. Season with salt and sugar. rice, some 4. When the chicken is tender, transfer the pieces to a cucumber andbaking tray (if broiling) or to a heated grill. Reserve the gravy. Grill until the pieces are golden brown. Transfer

Ayam Panggang Spicy Grilled Chicken When I tire of the usual roast chicken seasoned s 1 whole chicken, cut into 20 shallots, with r(leongksueasm), ary, d 2.5 cm or 1 inch turmeric (kunyit), thyme, garlic andd 2 stalks lemon grass (seray), upperpeeled and quartered lemon juice, 2 heads garlic, peeled ½ I resort to a spicyccuupp soil 1¾ coconut grilled version thamretislekr,ve gives me more zestccroecaomnu 1t tablespoon than the commonn grass, red chillies, tamarind (assam), roast chicken soaked in ½ cup hot water Salt usually does. It isver low heat until Sugar 1. Rinse spice paste. Add the the chicken good enough to eatk, reserving the top pieces and urn up the heat and pat dry. with plain whiteuid and pour into the ith salt and sugar. rice, some r the pieces to a cucumber andgrill. Reserve the brown. Transfer



2 tablespoons oil Ayam RCenhidcakenng in Spicy Coconut Gravy My mother learnt to make this from the old Jubilee restaurant. It was one of the dishes taught to her at the back of their Arab Street restaurant back in the 1960s. Over the years, she adjusted the ingredient amounts to suit her own palate and to make up for the evolutionary change in the flavours of these 150 g or 5 ingredientsm.1a2k etso 4 1 t5o p6i esecrevsin cghs icken, preferably ounces thighs or drumsticks 1 cusphallots, 1 teaspoon fennel (jintan manis) cpoeceolendut 1 teaspoon cumin (jintan puteh) 1½ tablespoons chilli powder 2tqSoaumlatramcrsfattieloennoiisrccdleeeeokeslrdnd,y,vuet ½ teaspoon ground turmeric powder 1 bunccreham 70 g or 2½ ounces ginger, mle1ai nbvteucsno,rcihander stemlseaves skinned and julienned 15 g or ½ ounce garlic, peeled trhemeo (svcpieldaicnetro), pastrseetem.mosved 1. Rinse chicken pieces and pat dry. Add the chicken 2. Grind the fennel, cumin, chilli powder, ground turmeric powder, ginger and garlic. 3. Heat a Dutch oven and add oil. Fry the sliced shallots pieces. until light golden brown. Add the ground ingredients and P4.o u Trr iannsfer fry over low heat until fragrant, being careful not to burn tho ea serving cdoischo nanutd mgairlkn,ish rweistehr tvhineg mthien top laanyder of corcioannudter lceraevaems. for use later. Turn up the heat

Ayam RCenhidcakenng in Spicy Coconut Gravy ake this from the old Jubilee f the dishes ck of their Arab Street restaurant the ingredient amounts to suit her e up for e in the flavours of these hicken, preferably 150 g or 5 msticks ounces nd turmeric powder 1 cusphallots, cpoeceolendut er, ground turmeric he sliced shallots qS2toaumlatraafsrmcttieloennoiisrccdleeeeokeslrdnd,y,vuet nd ingredients and 1 bunccreham careful not to burn mle1ai nbvteucsno,rcihander stemlseaves trhemeo (svcpieldaicnetro), pastsreetem.mosved Add the chicken pieces. 4P.o u Trr iannsfer toh ea serving dcoischo nanutd gmairlkn,ish wreistehr tvhineg tmhien top alanyder of corcioannudter cleraevaems. for use later. Turn up the heat

2 tablespoons oil Lontong 4 cups water Rice Cubes with Assorted VegetablesFrom my interpretation, lontong actually refers to a in Spicymeal in which the staple is the compressed rice, also called lontong. The major sidekick Coconutis sayur lodeh which is made up of vegetables simmered in a spicy coconut gravy. A Gravygenerous topping of serunding made of grated coconut thickens the gravy. That said, lontong, As abeing a dishma okefs 8v teo g10e stearvbingles ssa,y uisr l otdyehp 3i ctaabllelsypoons coriander (ketumbar) 5 child, Iserved withcm o opr 2o irn caheys agamlan g(apl a(legngek u2as1),5), beef rendang (page 216) and beskringneedd ainld (jupliaengneed 22.15 c1m) .or 1 inch turmeric (kunyit), skinned and finely sliced 60 g or 2 ounces dried shrimps, rinsed used to tagand pat dry, then ground 15 shallots, peeled and quartered 10 dried chillies, soaked in hot water along withfor at least 20 minutes 30 g or 1 ounce belachan my mother on Hari Raya day and have1 cup coconut milk, reserve coconut cream at least * The 200 g or 7 ounces long beans, trimmed compressed threeand cut into 4 cm or 1½ inch lengths 200 g or 7 ounces rice cake jicama (bangkuang), can be lontongpeeled and julienned, then blanched 200 g or 7 ounces prepared cabbage, cut into by cooking 2.5 cm or 1 inch squares 300 g or 11 ounces prawns the rice in a rice cooker. (shrimps),

2 tablespoons oil Lontong 4 cups water Rice Cubes with Assorted VegetablesFrom my interpretation, lontong actually refers to a in Spicymeal in which the staple is the compressed rice, also called lontong. The major sidekick Coconutis sayur lodeh which is made up of vegetables simmered in a spicy coconut gravy. A Gravygenerous topping of serunding made of grated coconut thickens the gravy. That said, lontong, As abeing a dishma okefs 8v teo g10e stearvbingles ssa,y uisr l otdyehp 3i ctaabllelsypoons coriander (ketumbar) 5 child, Iserved withcm o opr 2o irn caheys agamlan g(apl a(legngek u2as1),5), beef rendang (page 216) and beskringneedd ainld (jupliaengneed 22.15 c1m) .or 1 inch turmeric (kunyit), skinned and finely sliced 60 g or 2 ounces dried shrimps, rinsed used to tagand pat dry, then ground 15 shallots, peeled and quartered 10 dried chillies, soaked in hot water along withfor at least 20 minutes 30 g or 1 ounce belachan my mother on Hari Raya day and have1 cup coconut milk, reserve coconut cream at least * The 200 g or 7 ounces long beans, trimmed compressed threeand cut into 4 cm or 1½ inch lengths 200 g or 7 ounces rice cake jicama (bangkuang), can be lontongpeeled and julienned, then blanched 200 g or 7 ounces prepared cabbage, cut into by cooking 2.5 cm or 1 inch squares 300 g or 11 ounces prawns the rice in a rice cooker. (shrimps),



1 teaspoon salt 2 cups corn oil Bergedil Fried Potato Croquettes These fried potatomakes 8 servings 330 g or 1½ pounds russet potatoes 300 g or 11 ounces ground beef 2 stalks spring onions (scallions), use green part only, sliced very finely 2 tablespoons coriander leaves (cilantro), patties arestemmed, chopped finely 2 teaspoons finely sliced shallots, fried ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg (buah pala) 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper truly 2 eggs, delicious separate yolks from with1. Place potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with the w4.h i tBe eat sufficient cold water. Bring to a boil. When the potatoes wcew5aaaog.sdn ho irgdd dkiHnt et s eaeohe.snaietltd. a lontongcan be pierced through easily with a paring knife, drain the water and let the potatoes cool. Peel and mash (pagethe potatoes. 208) and2. Combine the mashed potatoes, ground beef, spring When the onions, coriander leaves, fried shallots, nutmeg, black 6oi. l iRsemove gealicshte pnainttgy, sotopepper and salt. Add one egg yolk first. Mix well. If the dcaipre efauclhly ayammixture is still dry, add the second egg yolk. wbeirtghe adil splaottttye dinto 3. Form the mixture into patties using about 2 tablespoons mixture per patty. (page sthpeo oengg awnhdit tersansfer 212). taon da platter lsilnideed iwntitoh Sometimes,tahbes owrobke ntot fprayp uenr.til my motherlTihgheste bgoerldgendil breoswt sne.r Dveod

Bergedil Fried Potato Croquettes These fried g or 1½ pounds russet potatoes 300 g or 11 ounces potatospring onions (scallions), use d very finely 2 tablespoons coriander leaves (cilantro), patties arenely 2 teaspoons finely sliced shallots, fried ½ teaspoon 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper truly 2 eggs, delicious separate yolks from with the w4.h i tBe eat hen the potatoes wacaa5weog.nsd ho irgdd dkiHnt et s eaeohe.snaietltd. a l(opnatgoe ngring knife, drain 208) andund beef, spring When the , nutmeg, black o6i. l iRsemove gealicshte pnainttgy, soto Mix well. If the dcaipre efauclhly ayam bweirtghe adil pslaottttye dinto (page tshpeo oengg awnhdit tersansfer 212). aton da platter slilnideed iwntitoh Sometimes,tahbes owrobke ntot fprayp uenr.til my motherTlihgheste bgoerldgendil are breoswt sne.r Dveod





1 teaspoon white pepper Opor Ayam Chicken in Mild Coconut Sauce There are two methods of cooking this dish. My mother’s original recipe called for the coconut cream to be heated before adding the spice paste. This is often how Thai curries are prepared. Another method is to fry the spice paste over low heat, and then add the thin coconut milk, followed by the coconut cream at the end, so that the cream does not curdle. Here I provmidakees b4 otot 6h s emrvinegtshods so you can try the different styles for yo1u wrchsuoetl eluf cp.h iinctkoe n8, taob 1o0u tp 1ie.4c eksg or 3 pounds, 8 shallots, peeled 3 tablespoons ground coriander 1 (quartered (ketumbar) p4cgl¼aeore vlclieeiMsopfucfildre, npieu cacetsenohlidyurno ntdigf 1, qtStoo8aum lactruauouMMttpisseoleeiisr nntte(ehhisggdf,oodd 2) ¼ tablespoon turmeric (kunyit) powder taste2co) conut 2 candlenuts (buah keras) 2.5 cm or 1 inch galangal (lengkuas), skinned and julienned 1 stalk lemon grass (seray), upper stalks 2 tamblielks,poons and outer layers removed, grersaetervde sliced thinly 5ch girlleccdcieeroornseycc,aoo-fmnnruuiettd, sliceodr toasted Method 1 Mlenetghthodwise 1. Rinse chicken pieces and pat dry. 21. Rinse 2. Grind the white pepper, ground coriander, ground tpgcp2dahhnr.rie eoey ipd ccG u.pw kepnresehaidrnnti,tde turmeric, candlenuts, galangal, lemon grass, shallots and garlic into a fine spice paste. Marinate the chicken with the spice paste and set aside for at least an hour. c3o. r Hiaenadte ar, 3. Heat a Dutch oven and add the coconut cream. Warm Dgruotucnhd oven up the coconut cream until a greasy film appears. Add the atunrdm aedrdic, marinated chicken. Then pour in the coconut milk and cthaen doliel.n Furtys, bring to a boil. Add the tomatoes. Lower to a simmer until tghaela snligcaeld, the sauce thickens. Season with salt according to taste. Stir slehmalolonts

Opor Ayam Chicken in Mild Coconut Sauce of cooking this dish. My mother’s r the ated before adding the spice Thai curries method is to fry the spice paste add the thin by the coconut cream at the end, not curdle. thods so you can try the different about 1.4 kg or 3 pounds, 8 shallots, to 10 pieces peeled powder 1 (quartered (lengkuas), cgp4l¼aeore vlclieeMoipfsucfildre,n pieu cacetsenohlidyurno ntdigf 1, qttSoo8aum lactruaMouMuttpisseoeleiisr nntte(ehhisggdf,oodd 2) taste2co) conut upper stalks 2 tamblielks,poons grersaetervde c5h girllecccdieeroornseycc,aoo-fmnnruuiettd, sliceodr toasted lMenetghthodwise 21. Rinse iander, ground 2tapgdpchhnr.rei eoey ipd ccG u.pw kepnresehaidrnnti,tde grass, shallots and the chicken with the 3co. r Hiaenadte ar, nut cream. Warm gDruotucnhd oven m appears. Add the taunrdm aedrdic, oconut milk and cthaen doliel.n Furtys, r to a simmer until tghaela snligcaeld, cording to taste. Stir slehmalolonts

10 dried chillies, soaked in hot water Beef Rendang Beef Cubes Simmered in Spicy Coconutmakes 4 to 6 servings 680 g or 1½ pounds beef fillet, cut into 2.5 cm or 1 inch cubes 2.5 cm or 1 inch galangal (lengkuas), Gravy Theskinned and julienned 2.5cm or 1 inch ginger, skinned and julienned 2 stalks lemon grass (seray), upper stalks and outer layers removed, secret to asliced thinly 10 shallots, peeled 4 cloves garlic, peeled desirable beef rendang is to ensure that the beef is30 g or 1 ounce belachan Vegetable oil for frying 1 cup coconut milk, reserve simmeredcoconut cream 1 tablespoon tamarind (assam) pulp, soaked in ½ cup hot water 2 kaffir lime leaves (daun limau purut) 6 salam leaves (daun salam), omit slowly until2. Grind the galangal, ginifg neort ,a lveamilaoblne Sgarlat stos ,t asshtea Slluogtasr, to taste 1 cup grated garlic, dried chillies and bceolcaoncuhta, dnr yi-nfrtioed a fine spice paste. or toasted 1. Rinse beef cubes and pat dry. it is tender and3. Heat a large saucepan and add the oil. Fry the spice paste over low heat until fragrant, being careful not to the gravy isburn the spice paste. Add the beef cubes and make sure to sear all sides. Pour in the coconut milk, reserving the top thick. I havelayer of coconut cream for use later. Strain the tamarind juice into the saucepan. Add the kaffir lime leaves and incorporatedsalam leaves. Turn up the heat and bring to a boil. Lower heat, cover and simmer for an hour. Then uncover and turn the Frenchup to medium heat to thicken the gravy. When the gravy thickens and the beef is tender, at least after another hour,





Our Daily Fare We did not always eat elaborate meals. While my mother cooked all these special occasion meals, threw parties and made cookies and kueh chang to sell, she left the daily meals in the care of the maid. Ah Seng the delivery grocer came daily and recommended his fresh picks from the market. Without fail each morning, my mother would sigh “Ini hari masak apa?” (“What should I cook today?”), somewhat at a loss about how best to feed her brood with a variety of dishes. SYheet ,c sohuled n bee vaedrv etnrutulryo vues.e Wrehde nfa Kre onftuf cfkroy m a