Tatler

["","","","","A FAMILY STORY Yasmin and Amber Le Bon wear ASHOKA","BIG BANG ONE CLICK 18K King Gold case set with diamonds. Self-winding movement. Interchangeable strap using patented One-Click system.","Contents Watches & Jewellery Editor SPOTLIGHT SCORCHING HAUTE Charlie Miller 27 All roads lead to Rome Dazzle in Valentino with Assistant Managing Editor Chloe Smith Gucci dedicates its latest Graff \u2019s Graffabulous Art Director gems to the Eternal City Goddess of the Sun necklace Maria Bancroft 29 News splash Senior Designer Chandler Tregaskes brings and earrings, page 66 Molly Saunders essential updates from the PHOTOGRAPH: DANIEL SACHON. MODEL WEARS DRESS, \u00a38,400, VALENTINO. GLOVES, POA, NO 21. Designer world of high jewellery 82 Glamour pending 107 Mineral engineering EARRINGS AND NECKLACE, POA, GRAFF. RING, POA, DAVID MORRIS Adele Chidwick Milena Lazazzera is mesmerised Lapis, jet, malachite, onyx\u00c9 Chief Copy Editor, TRENDS by the new bijou pendant watches Felix Bischof praises the versatile Supplements 32 Chains of command beauty of ornamental hardstones Sarah Edworthy 84 Around the world for 80 gems Copy Editors From Dior to Pomellato, Charlie Miller jets off to see high REGULARS Jasmine Parker there are no weak links here jewellery\u2019s most exquisite creations 22 Editor\u2019s Letter Tim Willis 34 Fringe benefits Managing Editor Add some shimmy to your 88 On the money Charlie Miller reflects on the Xavier Bastin style with these accessories Minting it: why ancient coin anniversaries and inspirations Creative Director 36 Austen-tatious jewellery is to be treasured behind this year\u2019s guide Sophie Pera Regency is all the rage, now 24 Contributors Digital Editor here are the jewels to match 98 Tiaras and tales The people behind the bylines Rebecca Cope 38 Give the green light The mysterious case of the Italian 111 Address Book Business Manager, It\u2019s the shade of the season crown jewels, by Milena Lazazzera The best in the business Travel & Lifestyle for luxury watches 112 Tatler Throwback Charlotte Taylor 40 Rise and shine 100 Return of the rivi\u00e8re Eliz Akdeniz on the late Queen\u2019s Commercial Director, The jewellery watch is the Felix Bischof on the revival of a dazzling Diamond Diadem Head of Jewellery epitome of glamour favourite royal necklace Ana-Karena Paula de Allen Account Director, FASHION 102 All that glitters Jewellery & Fashion 66 Cut it fine Sarah Royce-Greensill on jewels Emily Goodwin that set couture week abuzz Commercial Director, Watches Rubies, diamonds and emeralds: Vikki Theo precious stones for party season Account Manager, Watches 90 One in a million David Matkowski Captivate in couture creations Creative Design Director, CNX from the world\u2019s top jewellers Scott Moore Creative Art Editor, CNX FEATURES Rebecca Gordon-Watkins 42 Jewel in the crown Production Controller Sappho Barkla Mary Sanderson celebrates the Senior Production Coordinator influence of Queen Elizabeth II Leonie Kellman 44 Pearls of wisdom The world is your oyster with Editor-in-Chief this gem, says Vivienne Becker Richard Dennen 49 Grin and wear it Chief Business Officer, Sarah Royce-Greensill marks Travel and Lifestyle 50 years of the smiley-face icon Simon Leadsford 53 Prized possessions Managing Director, Europe Ming Liu hails the winners of Natalia Gamero del Castillo the 2022 Tatler Watch Awards Chief Business Officer, 62 Pyramid scheme Cond\u00e9 Nast Britain & Vogue Luxor to luxe jewellery: Egypt\u2019s European Business Advisor queens rule, says Melanie Grant Vanessa Kingori 77 Atelier secrets Deputy Managing Director, Creative directors show Felix Europe Bischof their drawing boards Albert Read ON THE COVER Photographed by LUC BRAQUET Styled by SOPHIE PERA Model wears gloves (part of a dress), \u00a3292, Room 24. Hat and veil, stylist\u2019s own. Chrysoprase, tsavorite garnet, green tourmaline, mandarin garnet, emerald, pink sapphire, purple sapphire, diamond, white gold, rose gold and titanium brooch; chrysoprase, tsavorite garnet, mandarin garnet, purple sapphire, emerald, diamond, white gold and titanium ring, both POA, CHAUMET. For stockists, see Address Book. Make-up: L\u00e9a Tom\u00e9. Nails: Marie Rosa. Photographer\u2019s assistant: Theo Guerlet. Styling assistant: Nicol\u00f2 Pablo Venerd\u00ec Bettiol. Model: Loane Normand at Elite. Production by Camilla Fitz-Patrick. All information believed to be correct at the time of publication TATLER 19","","N AT U R E\u2019S R A R E J E W E L S","Editor\u2019s letter MY DREAM JEWELS \u2018I HAVE TO BE SEEN TO BE BELIEVED,\u2019 THE LATE QUEEN A carat a day: once famously quipped. Her colourful ensembles certainly ensured that find exquisite, she stood out in the crowds, but they also provided the perfect backdrop one-of-a-kind PHOTOGRAPHS: CAMERA PRESS\/CECIL BEATON; FRAN\u00c7OIS GOIZ\u00c9\/CARTIER; LUC BRAQUET for her world-famous jewellery collection. And this year more than any other in her reign \u2013 when the Queen celebrated her historic and treasures in unprecedented 70 years on the throne \u2013 her royal jewels took centre-stage, \u2018Just brilliant\u2019, the treasured assets of monarchs for centuries serving as resplendent symbols of regal power and grandeur. page 90 The Platinum Jubilee is a bitter-sweet memory now, but the inspiring Her Majesty presence of Elizabeth II lives on in so many ways; not least in jewellery, Queen with designers creating precious pieces commemorating her reign, as Elizabeth II Mary Sanderson details in her aptly titled piece, \u2018Her Majesty The Muse\u2019. was the ultimate Meanwhile, Felix Bischof discovers the glittering revival of the rivi\u00e8re (river jewellery muse, of gems) necklace, a favourite with European royalty of old, who wore them her influence in multiples to emphasise their wealth and status (page 100); and Milena celebrated in Lazazzera talks to the descendants of the last King of Italy, as they battle to the various claim ownership of the jewels of the House of Savoy (page 98). collections that marked the Elsewhere, we welcome to our esteemed fold of writers the jewellery Platinum historian and author Vivienne Becker, who dives into the magnificent world Jubilee earlier of the pearl on page 44. Long beloved by first ladies, maharajahs and heir- this year, esses, this simple yet stately gemstone remained a hallmark of our own page 42 mourned Queen\u2019s style. An equally famed female ruler was Cleopatra, whose story \u2013 as a result of ancient writings and not-so-ancient Hollywood movies TATLER \u2013 has enthralled generations for more than two millennia. In the centenary year of the discovery of Tutankhamun\u2019s tomb, Melanie Grant honours this other legendary queen, the last scion of the Ptolemaic dynasty (page 62). Finally, on page 49, Sarah Royce-Greensill marks another anniversary with her rave review of jewellery incorporating the Smiley, the feel-good icon now celebrating its own half-century. Yes, in true Tatler style, we\u2019ll take ours with a smattering of diamonds, please\u2026 CHARLIE MILLER Watches & Jewellery Editor Rose gold necklace, \u00a322,150, POMELLATO. Yellow gold, diamond and enamel ring, \u00a32,860, CECE JEWELLERY. Tank Louis Cartier watch in yellow gold and leather, \u00a311,300, CARTIER. Vintage gold and diamond earrings, POA, BUCCELLATI. Carnelian, diamond and rose gold bangle, \u00a316,300, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS 22","","TATLER CONTRIBUTORS Felix Bischof Sarah Royce-Greensill Felix Bischof, editor of the fashion, jewellery and watches supplements at The \u201990s trend is most joyous news magazine The Week, made a jet-setting in fine-jewellery form, as The effort for this year\u2019s guide. Seeking their Telegraph\u2019s jewellery editor Sarah many inspirations, he chased designers, Royce-Greensill discovers in this including Boucheron\u2019s Claire Choisne issue with her celebration of the and Caroline Scheufele of Chopard, to Smiley: a pop-culture symbol the Cannes Film Festival, Greek resorts of the acid house scene. From and beyond. Louis Vuitton\u2019s Francesca warehouse raves to Paris Haute Amfitheatrof even found WiFi on a Couture Week: she also reports sequestered island to discuss diamonds on this year\u2019s jubilant return to and emeralds, Felix says. IRL high-jewellery presentations. Milena Lazazzera PHOTOGRAPHS: CAROLE KITTNER; COURTESY OF THE NATURAL DIAMOND COUNCIL; COURTESY OF OMN\u0112QUE Milena Lazazzera is a freelance journalist contributing to The New York Times, the Financial Times and Vogue Business. She studied linguistics in Italy and Germany, and holds a master\u2019s degree in business from Grande \u00c9cole ESCP Business School in Paris. Milena is passionate about history and regularly posts stories about historically significant jewels on her Instagram account. Melanie Grant Vivienne Becker Melanie Grant has been a journalist for more than 20 years, having Vivienne Becker is a jewellery worked at The Times, The Independent, The Guardian, and now historian, journalist and author The Economist, where she is luxury editor of 1843 magazine. In of 28 books on the topic. She October 2020, she published her first book, Coveted: Art and is a contributing editor to the Innovation in High Jewellery. She has curated exhibitions with the Financial Times\u2019s HTSI magazine, Serpentine Galleries and for Sotheby\u2019s; and she won a Gem Award and her books include Art for Media Excellence from the Jewelers of America earlier this year. Nouveau Jewelry, The Impossible Collection of Jewelry: The 100 Most Important Jewels of the Twentieth Century and The Pearl Necklace. She lectures on the subject around the world. 24","HAPPY SPORT Handcrafted in Ethical Gold E-boutique : chopard.co.uk","A Racing Machine On The Wrist","By CHARLIE MILLER Clockwise from top, The MAN WITH Temple of Hercules Cori THE MIDAS TOUCH necklace in yellow beryl, peridot, spinel and diamond Like the ancient Phrygian king, everything Gucci\u2019s creative director with micro-mosaic; The Alessandro Michele touches turns to gold. The third chapter of Pantheon necklace in emerald and diamond with Michele\u2019s high jewellery imaginarium, Hortus Deliciarum (Latin for micro-mosaic; The Roman \u2018Garden of Delights\u2019), captures his wonder for the ancient Forum necklace in yellow gold, tanzanite and diamond splendour of Rome. The Grand Tour, a rite of passage for European with micro-mosaic; Piazza aristocrats and intellectuals in the 18th and 19th centuries, usually San Pietro necklace in began or ended in Rome, so Michele historicises this experience yellow sapphire, blue through unique micro-mosaic cameos, made between 1850 and sapphire, brown diamond and yellow diamond 1870, which depict the city\u2019s iconic monuments. These intricate with micro-mosaic. scenes take centre stage among an array of diamonds and All POA, GUCCI precious gemstones, infusing narrative into the jewels and creating unforgettable souvenirs from the Eternal City, which TATLER has fascinated and inspired travellers for centuries. 27","","NEW Swan Song GLAM ring, \u00a327,300, ANTICS STEPHEN Classic brands, new twists: stylish WEBSTER creations to add to your wish list 29 By CHANDLER TREGASKES G Collins & Sons Stephen Webster This historic hidden gem in Tunbridge Wells has proudly held Inspired by heroines throughout a Royal Warrant since 2005 \u2013 history, Stephen Webster Harry Collins himself was celebrates the lives of pioneering appointed crown jeweller in 2007 female figures around the globe in Yellow diamond and is also a member of the Royal his ReBelles collection. From pendant on snake Victorian Order \u2013 so customers are Cleopatra to transgender activist chain, POA, sure to get the royal treatment. Marsha P Johnson, Webster G COLLINS & SONS From the on-site workshop, honours these leaders in a director Josh Collins lends his kaleidoscope of whimsically skilled hand to a collection of chic jewels that only he could one-of-a-kind yellow diamond provide. Girl power has pieces \u2013 the ultimate regal regalia. just gone glam. Asprey Red agate and No one does floral blooms quite like Asprey, Annoushka yellow gold especially when it comes to the decadence of earrings, \u00a37,900, the daisy motif. During a move from Bond ANNOUSHKA Street, Asprey revisited the archives and found a stone that had been left in the 1980s \u2013 the Garnet Daisy Since launching in 2009, garnet. Now its blood-red hue adds an essence ring, \u00a35,250, Annoushka has cemented its of romance to the Daisy collection. ASPREY reputation as the eminent jeweller for flora and fauna motifs. Bountiful blooms, alluring insects and marvellous mammals have all Ruby, diamond and Mappin & Webb found their way onto its designs. white gold hoop For the latest line, however, it\u2019s earrings, \u00a36,000; With a history of Royal Warrants dating back to goodbye to garden whimsy and ruby, diamond and 1897, 75 years of making trophies for Royal hello to Art Deco. \u2018Flight\u2019 pays platinum ring, Ascot and 240 years of jewellery service, it\u2019s no homage to sleek and chic lines, \u00a34,000; ruby, surprise that Mappin & Webb is the current through a nostalgic lens of diamond and white gold necklace, custodian of the Crown Jewels. For 2022, the vintage glamour. Dazzling drop \u00a320,000, house introduces a one-of-a-kind collection, set earrings resplendent in gold, to be its most exclusive to date. These 180 pearls and onyx create the MAPPIN & WEBB creations are awash with gold, platinum, ultimate 1920s charm and take gemstones and diamonds. Why not start inspiration from impressive the Carolean age with some palace- architecture of the era, such as approved decadence? the Chrysler Building. ] TATLER","","Grape earrings, Swarovski \u00a31,125; grape ring, \u00a3995, both Swarovski is bringing it back to basics \u2013 that\u2019s delightfully GEORG dazzling basics. \u2018As fundamental JENSEN to the wardrobe as the white T\u2019, according to the house, the new Millenia collection adds a bright, Millenia bracelet, \u00a3380, bold and youthful appeal to SWAROVSKI classic crystal jewellery. Vivid hues emblazon bracelets, necklaces and earrings throughout the eye- catching line, providing an instant playful panache to any ensemble. Georg Jensen 886 by The Yellow gold Royal Mint hoops, The Danish jeweller\u2019s grape-shaped ornaments of \u00a32,825, 886 the 1920s return in all their BY THE fruitful glory. The Moonlight ROYAL Grapes collection is now MINT resplendent in 18-carat gold as well as silver \u2013 with diamonds Britain\u2019s oldest company and the for that extra sparkle. official maker of all the UK\u2019s coins is owned by His Majesty\u2019s Treasury and has David Morris been supplying the country since 886 AD. Now, under the creative direction of designer Dominic Jones, The Royal Sixty years after David Morris first erupted onto the jewellery Mint introduces fine jewellery. Created with sustainability scene, the brand releases six new marvels in honour of each in mind, the debut collection features accessories made in decade of the house. From capturing the spirit of the \u201960s the UK from gold recovered from electronic waste. with the swirling Ribbon necklace, to getting tied up in the Zouk rainbow \u201990s with the Purity choker, David Morris revisits the earrings, \u00a37,690, moments that made him a master. ROBINSON PELHAM Ribbon necklace, POA, DAVID MORRIS Nadine Ghosn Bon Bon Block Robinson Pelham ring, \u00a35,657, The building blocks of life have never been so chic. NADINE Celebrating a quarter of a century, Robinson Pop-culture jeweller extraordinaire, Nadine Ghosn has GHOSN Pelham launches a series of collections and turned her gem-encrusted hand to a familiar motif for limited editions for its 25th birthday. From her latest collection: the building block. Once stacked updated classics to complete new creations, the by curious children on the nursery-school floor, the much-loved house is marking the occasion in trusty brick is encased in sapphire, jade and 18-carat serious style. As worn by both the Princess of gold \u2013 poised to perfection for eccentric elegance. \u2018This Wales and her sister, Pippa Middleton, on collection reminds us that any of life\u2019s challenges can be their wedding days, Robinson Pelham overcome \u2013 step by step, block by block,\u2019 says Ghosn. certainly has the royal stamp of approval when it comes to event dressing, and these TATLER latest additions are sure to add a touch of regal glamour to any ensemble. Embrace the beauty of brilliant British design with its bright, bold and luxuriously refined pieces. ( 31","12 3 1 Toujours earrings, 5 \u00a36,000, JEMMA 4 WYNNE. 2 Discoveries in MISSING the Darkness earrings, LINKS \u00a352,200, POMELLATO. Forget less is more \u2013 stock up 3 Earrings, \u00a327, 530, and stack up this season CICADA. 4 M Code bracelet, \u00a31,700, By CHANDLER TREGASKES MIKIMOTO at David M It\u2019s a chain reaction. The enduring elegance Robinson. 5 Ada Bracelet, of the delightfully refined chain necklace has \u00a38,750, MELISSA KAYE. spread to every extremity of the body. Wrapped 6 Colour Dior transformable around wrists, flourishing on fingers or ending up on ears, this trusty link is a one-stop shop for necklace bracelet, POA, unbridled style. For the new season, Tiffany & Co. DIOR JOAILLERIE. goes for gold with the graceful wrap bracelet, Dior reaches for rainbows in its Colour Dior 7 City Hardware bracelet, collection, and Pomellato adds black and white \u00a39,025, TIFFANY & CO. diamonds to its Discoveries in the Darkness 8 Chain link ring, \u00a32,505, earrings. Worn on their own for discerningly delicate appeal, or stacked to high heaven ANITA KO. 9 Riverlink \u00e0 la vintage Chanel \u2013 and props to anyone bracelet, \u00a311,700; who goes full Linda Evangelista '92 \u2013 the chain truly provides the missing link . interchangeable link with sapphires, \u00a33,990, 8 ROBINSON PELHAM. 10 Enamel and gold bracelet, \u00a33,285, LAUREN RUBINSKI at matchesfashion.com. 11 Love token chain necklace, \u00a318,590, FOUNDRAE. 12 Knot collar, \u00a350,900, BOODLES. 13 Linkage necklace, POA, TASAKI ATELIER. 14 Bubble ring, POA, FOPE. 15 Sync ring, \u00a34,830, FERNANDO JORGE 6 7 Linda Evangelista Philosophy walks for Chanel, 1992 di Lorenzo Serafini 11 AW22 12 9 Jodie Turner-Smith 13 10 is on trend at the 14 Venice Film Festival 15 TATLER 32","","1 Fringe earrings, \u00a310,200, 2 EMILY P WHEELER. 2 Earrings, POA, Julianne Moore, DINAKAMAL. Tatler 2019 3 Diaphane earrings, POA BOGHOSSIAN. 4 Released Sun bracelet, POA, MESSIKA BY KATE MOSS. 5 Fringe bracelet, POA, SOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE. 6 Sunlight pendant, \u00a322,800, PIAGET. 7 The Nile fringe earrings, \u00a314,400, VANLELES. 8 Necklace, \u00a32,600, KIAIA LONDON. 9 Earrings, \u00a36,800, SOPHIE KEEGAN. 10 Together collar necklace, \u00a399,785, NIKOS KOULIS 1 ON THE 3 FRINGE Schiaparelli Haute Couture AW22 How better to bring fun and flair to a fashion ensemble? By CHANDLER TREGASKES Are you entitled to some fringe benefits? If Olivia Wilde arrives the new season\u2019s jewellery is anything to go at the 79th Venice by, the answer is: yes, indeed you are. While Film Festival fringe fashion is reserved mainly for the discotheque, the elegant movement of 5 tasselled jewels is an exemplary way to add a touch of glitz and glamour. Boghossian and 4 6 Emily P Wheeler are dangling opals, sapphires and emeralds from the ears; Nikos Koulis and TATLER Kiaia are dripping diamonds from the neck; and Messika and Solange have your wrists covered \u2013 in beguiling gems, of course. So shake it, darling! This trend is both fabulous and fun. And shimmying has never been so chic. 10 7 9 8 Gucci AW22 34","","12 1 Earrings, \u00a3230,810, 3 CICADA. 2 & 3 Hortus Deliciarum earrings and bracelet, GOLDEN both POA, GUCCI HIGH RULES JEWELLERY. 4 Ring, 4 \u00a3105,000, BUCCELLATI. 5 Kiki Classics ring, \u00a31,900, Channel your inner-debutante KIKI MCDONOUGH. this season with outr\u00e9 elegance 6 Siracusa 2022 earrings, POA, DOLCE & GABBANA By CHANDLER TREGASKES ALTA GIOIELLERIA. 7 1932 transformable brooch, POA, Ever since the beautiful behemoth of Bridgerton, Regencycore has been rampant. CHANEL HIGH The ostentation of the 19th century \u2013 the era JEWELLERY. 8 Torsade de du jour \u2013 has infiltrated the nation, and lavish spectacle has become the new black. If you Chaumet tiara, POA, want to go Georgian this season, look to Gucci, CHAUMET. 9 Olivia Button who has added an incomparable eccentricity to rivi\u00e8re, \u00a34,875, LARKSPUR & its Hortus Deliciarum collection; or to Dolce & Gabbana, whose Alta Gioielleria is HAWK. 10 Triple Deco as majestic as the Scaligero Castle; or to necklace, POA, THELMA Garrard, the only place to go for a dazzling tiara (we know you want to). WEST. 11 Rose Garden necklace, POA, GARRARD. 12 Alexandra necklace, \u00a373,000, MARLO LAZ 6 5 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture, 1989 11 9 7 PHOTOGRAPHS: JACK WATERLOT; ANDREAS RENTZ, DARREN GERRISH, GAMMA-RAPHO, GC IMAGES, MENTERNATIONAL\/GETTY IMAGES; FILIPPO FIOR, ALESSANDRO VIERO\/GORUNWAY.COM 36 10 Dua Lipa wears Vivienne 12 8 Westwood at the 2021 BRIT Awards Priyanka Chopra Jonas outside the Ritz Paris TATLER","","Diana, Princess of Wales, 1 1 Lady K Jade, \u00a35,595, at the Commonwealth 2 BREMONT. 2 RM 67-02 Van War Cemetery, 1991 Niekerk Automatic Extra Flat, 10 TIME TO POA, RICHARD MILLE. GO GREEN Alexander 3 Aquaracer Professional 300, McQueen With a watch in this hue, you\u2019ll \u00a32,700, TAG HEUER. AW22 make others green with envy 4 Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K, By CHANDLER TREGASKES \u00a313,340, TUDOR. 5 Happy Uncut emeralds from Zambia, the grass courts Diamonds watch, \u00a37,740, of Wimbledon in July, the leafy parks of Paris in CHOPARD. 6 La Grande spring \u2013 the world is full of opulent green hues. It\u2019s no surprise then, that this year\u2019s biggest Classique de Longines, watch trend comes directly from nature. Green \u00a32,850, LONGINES. 7 Royal was all the rage at Geneva\u2019s Watches and Wonders trade show in April, and the Oak Selfwinding Flying tastemakers of timepieces were quick to Tourbillon, POA, AUDEMARS adopt the palette. Bremont and Chopard used diamonds to accent their sage and pine leather PIGUET. 8 De Ville Tr\u00e9sor straps; TAG Heuer and Richard Mille opted for 36MM Moonshine, \u00a315,700, a sporty edge with adventurous panache; and Audemars Piguet bedecked the face of the OMEGA. 9 Day-Date 40 Royal Oak with its evolutive tapisserie pattern. Yellow Gold, \u00a331,450, This season, it is easy being green. ROLEX. 10 World Time, \u00a346,670, PATEK PHILIPPE at David M Robinson 3 4 5 6 Marc Jacobs PHOTOGRAPHS: IK ALDAMA\/INDIGITAL.TV; JAYNE FINCHER\/PRINCESS DIANA ARCHIVE\/GETTY IMAGES 7 AW22 8 9 TATLER 38","","1 1 Lady Arpels Heures Florales 3 Cerisier, POA, VAN CLEEF & 2 ARPELS. 2 Reine de Naples 8939, \u00a3341,100, BREGUET. 3 Winston Candy High Jewellery Watch, POA, HARRY WINSTON. 4 Divas\u2019 Dream, POA, BULGARI. 5 Fine Jewellery Rainbow watch, POA, DOLCE & GABBANA. 6 La Panth\u00e8re de Cartier, POA, CARTIER. 7 Ondes et Merveilles de Chaumet Sous le Soleil Swiss, POA, CHAUMET. 8 Dior Print watch, POA, DIOR JOAILLERIE. 9 \u00c9g\u00e9rie Moon Phase, \u00a368,230, VACHERON CONSTANTIN. 10 Rendez- Vous Dazzling Moon, \u00a374,000, JAEGER-LECOULTRE ARM 45 CANDY Miu Miu AW22 Tatler girls know that a jewellery PatBO AW22 watch is the epitome of glamour Cher models By CHANDLER TREGASKES a Bob Mackie creation, 1978 While some people wear their heart on their sleeve, we\u2019d rather sport our finest rocks. When it comes to watches, diamonds aren\u2019t the only artillery. While iced-out wrists are a safe standby 9 for scintillating on the scene, consider bedecking your timepiece with a more colourful array of gems to make a real statement. Harry Winston\u2019s Winston Candy High Jewellery collection features sapphires, diamonds, tsavorites et al; Bulgari\u2019s Divas\u2019 Dream is an enviable display of tourmaline and malachite; and Dior\u2019s Dior Print watch provides a masterclass in sizzling sapphires. Still, if you insist on that classic PHOTOGRAPHS: DPA PICTURE ALLIANCE, SIPA US\/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; HARRY LANGDON\/GETTY IMAGES appeal, head to Cartier or Breguet for the most dazzling diamonds, stones that are truly timeless. 8 6 9 10 7 40 TATLER","","2 5 1 4 3 HER MONARCH OF MAJESTY THE GEMS THE MUSE Two years into her 70-year reign, the Queen was Long live her influence: photographed by Cecil Queen Elizabeth II wore Beaton wearing the sash of her cache of treasures the Order of the Garter with inimitable dignity and a diamond and pearl diadem made for George IV at Buckingham Palace 12 13 14 By MARY SANDERSON 15 IF YOU WERE TO DELVE INTO ANY jewellery-box you liked, whose would it be? Elizabeth Taylor\u2019s on-off romance with Richard Burton led her to acquire some extraordinary pieces. The Duchess of Windsor\u2019s 16 lavish lifestyle ensured an array that fetched a inspired by sketches from the archives of Philip Antrobus (the jeweller that famously designed the whopping \u00a330 million when it was sold at Sotheby\u2019s 17 Queen\u2019s engagement ring in 1947). Pragnell dis- 11 covered them when it bought Antrobus in 1991 in 1987. But then there is the astonishing collection amassed by \u2013 then kept them firmly under wraps for more TATLER than 30 years. Elizabeth II in her 70-plus-year reign, jewels which included Charlie Pragnell recalls: \u2018When I became crowns passed down from king to queen; famous managing director of our family company, in 2010, my father passed me a shoebox; and necklaces and tiaras pulled from the vault for star-studded events; on opening it, I found it to be full of beautifully sketched and hand- and a trademark brooch, pinned to her lapel, without which painted, original jewellery designs dating from between 1920 and 1950, Her Majesty was rarely seen. In 2022, her platinum jubilee year, some of the most esteemed jewellery houses in Britain (and elsewhere) looked to the Queen for inspiration, and designed one-off collections that paid hom- age. Take Pragnell, which produced seven unique pieces, each nodding to a successive decade of the monarch\u2019s rule \u2013 and all 42","source of the largest rough diamond ever discovered, in 1905. (It was later cut into the Great and Second Stars of 8 7 Africa, to adorn the Crown Jewels.) 6 Boodles\u2019 creative director, Rebecca GOLDEN YEARS Hawkins, took her inspiration from these In the 50th anniversary year of her accession, the historic stones and re-imagined them, creat- Queen drew upon her remarkable collection for ing a modern collection with transformable a diplomatic reception in the Crimson Drawing pieces that will keep their wearer dazzling in 9 Room at Windsor Castle diamonds from day to night. \u2018Formal jewels the period leading directly up to Queen Elizabeth\u2019s coronation.\u2019 The seven patriotic pieces were ingeniously crafted with materials have given way to a desire for casual and versatile associated with anniversaries. An enormous 2.99-carat Burmese sapphire ring, masterfully set in Cornish tin, marked the Queen\u2019s pieces, as people have tended to dress up less 10th year on the throne; while a diamond knuckleduster, hosting a piece of Royal Worcester china as its centrepiece, commemorated often,\u2019 says Hawkins \u2013 and her multi-functional, her 20th year. And to top it off, each jewel was engraved with the Goldsmiths\u2019 Platinum Jubilee hallmark, specially created in pear-cut diamond necklace really proves her point. honour of the Queen. Next to Hirsh, for a peek at its Jubilee Rose brooch: From Pragnell\u2019s Mount Street emporium, walk five minutes to Bond Street and you\u2019ll find more royal references at Boodles. Its a piece so perfect that it looks like it has been freshly \u2018Peace of Mined\u2019 collection concentrates on the provenance of rocks that can be traced back to the prestigious Cullinan mine, picked from the late Queen\u2019s garden \u2013 except that this rose is sprinkled with pink sapphires, 18-carat gold thorns and green tsavorite garnet leaves. Try it on and it trembles, the effect of an ancient setting technique known as \u2018en tremblant\u2019, whereby a tiny spring mechanism is attached to the gem. Magic. As is Bulgari\u2019s latest high jewellery collection. The Italian brand\u2019s goldsmiths have spent gazillions of hours \u2013 1,500 to be precise \u2013 expertly setting emeralds and diamonds into a Jubilee Emerald Garden Tiara, which also doubles as a necklace. Its main attraction is a vast 63.44-carat Zambian emer- ald, intricately carved with a lotus flower to symbolise a bouquet fitting for the monarch. But note how her anniversary was also subtly remembered in the plati- num setting; and how Queen Victoria\u2019s Fife Tiara has influenced the diadem\u2019s regal bearing. On to Garrard, where its royal connections are celebrated with a striking Platinum Jubilee pin holding a twinkling topaz inside its distinctive, heart-shaped \u2018Sovereign\u2019 motif. The majestic emblem mirrors Garrard\u2019s design for the Sovereign\u2019s Sceptre, when it incorporated the Great 10 Star of Africa in 1910. Finally, head to Annoushka and she\u2019ll cover your fingers in the colours of the Union flag, courtesy of her Jubilee Crown ring, bedecked with diamonds, rubies and iridescent sapphires. There\u2019s a Spinning Orb pearl charm, too, or a pair of crowns to grace your lobes. But whatever takes your fancy, there are a myriad ways to pay PHOTOGRAPHS: CECIL BEATON, JOHN SWANNELL\/CAMERA PRESS tribute to Queen Elizabeth II. And even if you can\u2019t match her collection, you can at least establish your own connection. ( 1 Emerald, diamond, onyx and platinum transformable tiara, POA, BULGARI. 2 Ruby, sapphire, emerald, diamond and platinum ring, \u00a33,900, ANNOUSHKA. 3 & 8 Peace of Mined diamond and platinum necklace and earrings, both POA, BOODLES. 4 Masterpiece Jubilee Collection sapphire and diamond necklace, POA, PRAGNELL. 5 & 9 Peace of Mined diamond, enamel and platinum ring and pendant, both POA, BOODLES. 6 & 7 Spinning Orb pearl and diamond charm, \u00a32,900; Crown diamond bangle, \u00a316,900, both ANNOUSHKA. 10 Jubilee Rose brooch in pink diamond, pink sapphire, tsavorite garnet, rose gold, yellow gold and platinum, POA, HIRSH. 11 Peace of Mined pink and white diamond detachable brooch, POA, BOODLES. 12 Platinum Jubilee pin in diamond, amethyst, blue topaz, tsavorite, platinum and white gold, POA, GARRARD. 13, 14, 15, 16 & 17 Jubilee Cut Diamond Masterpiece ring, POA; Cushion-cut ruby Masterpiece Cross Over ring, \u00a385,000; Masterpiece sapphire ring, \u00a348,000; Masterpiece Royal Blue China and diamond ring, \u00a314,500; Masterpiece Jubilee Collection Welsh gold and emerald bomb\u00e9 ring, \u00a326,500; all PRAGNELL TATLER 43","Pearls pinicttuhree 1 Long treasured as symbols of Coco Chanel, the first status for royalty and leading designer to overturn ladies, pearls are enjoying a striking renaissance. Vivienne conventions by wearing Becker reveals a new modernity pearls with casual aplomb LONG BEFORE THE DIAMOND DAZZLED, THE PEARL the 16th century in the waters around Panama and sent to King \u2013 pure and lustrous \u2013 was considered the most prized and precious Philip II of Spain. The pearl earned its name, meaning \u2018The material in the world. Very likely the earliest of gem materials \u2013 Wanderer\u2019, as it passed through the hands of European royalty and and probably discovered during the search for food \u2013 this mysteri- British nobility, before being bought at auction by Richard Burton ous marvel of the natural world, with its pristine, pr\u00eat-a-porter as a gift of love for Elizabeth Taylor. perfection and moonlit sheen, must have seemed as if sent by a divine power. Later, in ancient Greece, pearls were sacred to the During the Renaissance, superb specimens brought back from goddess Aphrodite and were said to be solidified drops of sea- the New World found their way into the royal treasuries of Europe water, shaken from her hair as she emerged from the brine; and in by fair means or foul \u2013 pirates! \u2013 and became an absolute the first century AD, the Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder \u2013 who obsession. For Catherine de\u2019 Medici and Elizabeth I, the great ranked pearls as \u2018the first amongst precious things\u2019 \u2013 repeated an female power-brokers of the age, the magnificent pearls depicted Indian myth that they were the \u2018dews of the heavens\u2019, transformed in their portraits proclaimed the might and majesty of their as they fell into open oysters that had risen to the surface of the sea. realms, their courtly splendour and divine-given authority. Actually, in person, Elizabeth I wasn\u2019t above adding the occasional Their rarity, origins and otherworldly beauty meant that pearls Venetian-glass faux specimen to her array; and if Queen Elizabeth II remained symbols of power, wealth and status through the millen- wore her pearls \u2013 the real thing \u2013 with more restraint, she had just nia: the prerogative of kings, queens, emperors and empresses. as much panache. Their understated, unshowy yet regal glamour They were beloved of sultans and socialites \u2013 Barbara Hutton\u2019s was always perfectly pitched. fabulous single strand of natural pearls supposedly belonged to Marie-Antoinette \u2013 and lusted after by maharajahs and movie But classic strands have been the jewellery of choice for first ladies stars, including such Hollywood royalty as Marilyn Monroe, Grace of all sorts: from Mary Todd Lincoln, who wore a suite of Tiffany Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor. The latter owned seed pearls, to Jackie Kennedy Onassis; from Est\u00e9e Lauder and one of the world\u2019s most famous and storied examples: La Peregrina, Helena Rubinstein to Babe Paley (the mid-century US style leader) the large and lustrous drop-shaped pearl that had been found in and of course Gabrielle \u2018Coco\u2019 Chanel. Growing up in an orphan- age, Chanel had seen from afar grand ladies flaunting row upon 44 TATLER","2 3 4 5 1 Pearl and diamond necklace, 6 POA, MOUSSAIEFF. 2 South The late Queen Princess Grace of Monaco Sea golden pearl, turquoise and Elizabeth II wears a wears the Van Cleef & yellow diamond necklace, regal double strand \u00a367,795, ASSAEL. 3 Pearl, to the wedding of Arpels pearl choker given mother-of-pearl and diamond her sister Princess to her as a wedding necklace, POA, BOUCHERON. Margaret in 1960 4 & 5 Cultured pearl, diamond present by Prince Rainier and opal bracelet; cultured pearl Elizabeth I in the and diamond necklace, both POA, Armada portrait CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY. attributed to George 6 Tahiti pearl, grey sapphire, blue spinel, grey spinel and diamond Gower, c1588 necklace, POA, POMELLATO. 7 Akoya pearl, spinel, alexandrite, The Maharani of ruby, onyx and diamond brooch, Baroda arranges POA, MIKIMOTO the Maharaja\u2019s pearl strands for row of impossibly valuable pearls, the emblems of a society from 7 his 39th birthday which she was excluded. Later, she was to parody their precious- festivities, 1948 ness, and dismantle their value, status and snob-appeal with the faux-pearls that she made the height of fashion, worn casually \u2013 even to the beach \u2013 and always without arrogance. In Chanel\u2019s childhood, during the Belle \u00c9poque, pearls reached astounding heights of value and desirability. Their price quoted daily in the newspapers, strands of fine pearls were a passport into society, as essential as a fine house and carriage. In 1917, Cartier acquired its magnificent Fifth Avenue townhouse in exchange for a two-strand necklace, plus $100. However, that all changed dra- matically in the 1920s, after Kokichi Mikimoto succeeded in the commercially viable cultivation of perfectly spherical pearls. A new market was born, yet in its connotations of conformity and con- servatism \u2013 the Sloaney debutante, granny\u2019s heirlooms, First Lady respectability \u2013 it still retained the old values. So these, of course, invited feisty rebellion and subversion. They were an irresistible challenge to break taboos, overturn conventions and rock the jewellery establishment. Never more so than today, when rule books are being torn up in what is surely the most dramatic pearl revolution to date. Contemporary designers see the pearl from a new aesthetic and cultural viewpoint, changing the narrative, stripping away out- dated associations, playing with its graphic simplicity to find entirely new creative expressions. There are reinvented classics at Chanel and Mikimoto, punk at Tasaki and Renaissance richness at Gucci, while teens on TikTok are turning to Coastal Granny Chic (of which pearls, along with linen trousers and cashmere cardigans, are a vital ingredient). Perhaps most notable of all, though, is the return of men-in-pearls: Harry Styles channelling Sir Francis Drake at the 2019 Met Gala, with his single pearl-drop earring. ] TATLER 45","[This year, even Mikimoto, staunchly traditionalist, launched 1 Passionoir, a capsule collection of South Sea black pearls, aimed at the gender-neutral market; exploring the duality of light 2 Barbara Hutton, and shade, countering the innocence of the pearl with something the Woolworth of the night. heiress, plays the Tasaki\u2019s Danger collection signals its own radical shake-up, giving the polite Akoya pearl a punk attitude: spiked in gold, with balalaika in a hint of tribal ornament when set in creole earrings. Meanwhile, the Tasaki Atelier Radiant Sky collection draws inspiration from Tangier, 1970 the changing colours and moods of the sea, the true pearl\u2019s natural habitat, as reflected in the ever-changing azure. Creative director First Lady Jackie Prabal Gurung sees the sky as \u2018the biggest art gallery\u2019, injecting Kennedy at the high jewellery with his hallmark energy: moving between organic Parthenon, and graphic, juggling colour and texture, and contrasting translu- Athens, 1961 cency and opacity (as in the Radiant necklace and earrings, which mingle turquoise, aquamarine, Paraiba tourmaline and blue zircon 3 PHOTOGRAPHS: BORIS LIPNITZKI\/ROGER-VIOLLET; CECIL BEATON, YOUSUF KARSH\/CAMERA PRESS; to enhance the tone of rare, blue-tinged pearls). In Waterfall, tor- GETTY IMAGES; HENRI CARTIER-BRESSON \u00a9 FONDATION HENRI CARTIER-BRESSON\/MAGNUM PHOTOS; rents of pearls cascade from the earrings and necklace, all the more shading from white into Tahitian grey, clasped with an elongated HORST P. HORST; PIERLUIGI PRATURLON\/SHUTTERSTOCK sensual for their movement. And Ore, erupting in a volcanic explo- open link paved in shadowy spinels and sapphires. Other stand- sion of colour, showcases Gurung\u2019s \u2018choreography\u2019 of shapes, his outs include the third act of Gucci\u2019s Hortus Deliciarum collection favoured combination being spherical pearls with rectangular and by creative director Alessandro Michele, which charts an imagi- square gemstones. \u2018I want to bring the pearl into the modern nary Grand Tour through time and place, and features one series world,\u2019 he says, \u2018to challenge norms and make people see it in new, dedicated to the pearl, exploring its myths, femininity and mysteri- unexpected ways.\u2019 ous ethereality. A classical necklace evoking Renaissance splendour is composed of white and golden pearls interspersed with dia- Mikimoto too has taken a walk on the wild side, with the Wild monds, from which hangs a drop-shaped Imperial topaz pendant. and Wonderful high-jewellery collection of naturalistic, figurative And Boucheron\u2019s thrillingly innovative Ailleurs collection cele- fantasies, capturing the drama of wild animals across five of the brates the raw beauty of nature and its curiosities: for its Oursin seven continents. Bejewelled penguins slide on freshwater pearl ice pendant, a sea urchin was scanned from nature, recreated in silver floes, pandas play with sunlit pearl snowballs, a crab-eater seal and smothered in pearls. frolics in pearl-foamed waves, and a flamingo sleeps, on one leg, its body a rare conch pearl. While the exuberance of the creatures \u2013 For all the innovation, though, pearls remain a perennial and alive with coloured gems \u2013 counters the stillness and serenity of emotive aspect of Chanel\u2019s high jewellery, evoking Mademoiselle\u2019s the pearls, the collection is also about living in harmony with the style, story and obsession. In the new high-jewellery collection, natural world; like the Mikimoto cultured pearl itself. 1932 \u2013 which reimagines her original, cosmic-themed diamond ensemble \u2013 the house references its abiding fascination with the Colour is another striking element of the pearl revolution. Under moon, edging the shooting-star trail of diamonds around its Lune the inspired creative direction of its senior vice-president Peggy Eternelle collar with white pearls, while a single specimen counters Grosz, the renowned US-based pearl specialist Assael has teamed a flashing black opal on each of its two Com\u00e8te Opale open- large and lustrous South Sea and Tahitian examples harmoniously fronted rings. And pearls are a natural fit for Chaumet\u2019s divinely and innovatively with coloured gems. \u2018Staying clean,\u2019 she says, is elegant Ondes et Merveilles collection, inspired by the moods and the key to the look: \u2018Rings composed of two strong elements, a pearl and a gemstone; the possibilities are infinite.\u2019 She plays with nuances of colour (a blue-ish Tahitian pearl with a vivid aquama- rine) and with striking juxtapositions, as in the golden pearl and turquoise Sand and Sea ring. Assael\u2019s bestselling Bubbles collection \u2013 designed by artist-goldsmith Sean Gilson \u2013 assembles pearls into graphic, cloud-like clusters, using a secret, invisible technique. Grosz praises the individuality of the Keshi pearl \u2013 a natural by-product of the cultivation process \u2013 which is made of pure nacre and thus exceptionally lustrous. She adds that smaller Tahitian pearls, in captivating bruised shades, are also enjoying a fashion moment; and that the traditional strand has been revital- ised as an ingredient of the stacked \u2018neck-mass\u2019. Whatever species you prefer, the pearl is generating a buzz right now, as confirmed by its conspicuous appearance in the season\u2019s high-jewellery offerings. In the latest La Gioia collection, Pomellato gives the pearl sautoir a contemporary makeover, capturing the fading light of day-into-night in a long strand of South Sea pearls, 46 TATLER","4 7 5 6 Marie-Antoinette, Elizabeth Taylor wears messages of the ocean. Cosmic theatricality also informs its Queen of France, La Peregrina necklace Com\u00e8te des Mers suite, in which natural pearls in rare colours in a 1783 portrait in Anne of a Thousand stream from a shooting star skimming the ocean, their shades Days, 1969 echoed in gemstones of meltingly tender hues. by Elisabeth Vigee Le Brun 1 Pearl and shell necklace, Then there is the new appreciation of natural pearls, which are POA, BOGHOSSIAN. formed randomly in oysters, not farmed. This has been a growing Style leader 2 Conch pearl and white phenomenon over the last decade or two. But apart, perhaps, Babe Paley, diamond earrings, POA, DAVID from the incredibly rare conch pearl \u2013 pale-peach-coloured and Vogue 1946 MORRIS. 3 Fine pearl and porcelain-like \u2013 most that are used now are antique. Largely Padparadscha sapphire ring, thanks to pollution, barely any natural examples can be found. POA, CHAUMET. 4 Earrings, Boghossian has been at the forefront of this revival, paying hom- \u00a34,375, SOPHIE BILLE age to its Armenian ancestors, nomadic traders of gems and pearls BRAHE. 5 Akoya pearl ring, along the Silk Road. So in one of its dramatic necklace and earring \u00a32,440, TASAKI. 6 South Sea suites, white natural pearls are clasped in shapely motifs com- pearl earrings, \u00a38,600, SEAN posed of iridescent nautilus shell, accented in diamonds; and from GILSON FOR ASSAEL. the necklace hangs a single, superb, baroque natural pearl. 7 & 9 Freshwater pearl bracelet, Meanwhile, over at Moussaieff, whose precursors also dealt and \u00a31,580; peacock pearl earrings, specialised in natural pearls, multiple strands of these ravishing \u00a31,830, both MELANIE rarities, alternating with diamonds, drape a necklace clasped on GEORGACOPOULOS. one side by a huge baroque pearl. And at David Morris, where 8 Akoya pearl, South Sea pearl, Jeremy Morris passionately scours the globe for conch pearls \u2013 the diamond, turquoise, aquamarine, creative director\u2019s special subject \u2013 his contemporary rendition of blue zircon and Paraiba a classic earring embellishes natural drop-shaped pearls with pink tourmaline necklace, POA, diamonds and briolette white diamonds. TASAKI ATELIER At the other end of the spectrum altogether, adventurous, indi- 9 8 vidual designer-jewellers are injecting pearls with a youthful, TATLER fashion-focused zest. Ever since graduating from London\u2019s Royal College of Art, Danish designer Sophie Bille Brahe has been challenging the status quo, reinterpreting the classic single strand through the asymmetry of large and small specimens, or transforming a stud into an ear cuff. Now, her Magical Thinking collection has brought her signature modern minimalism to the pearl\u2019s historic courtly splendour: her Scandi-sensibility reins in opulence, transforming 18th-century chandelier earrings into the Grand Ch\u00e2teau de Perles or the Jardin de Perle, while her Peggy necklace elongates into a one-metre long sautoir. And disruption has always been at the core of Melanie Georgacopoulos\u2019s work (she also designs for Tasaki). She slices pearls in half, cages them in gold and envelops them in dizzying spirals of diamonds. In her Hexad collection, she clusters them into geometric shapes. With her background in sculpture, she\u2019s changing perceptions of mother-of-pearl, too, constructing irides- cent cubes, set off by a single pearl. And like her, all these houses and artists are fuelling today\u2019s pearl revolution, fusing tradition and modernity \u2013 and renewing the oldest, most prized and fabled of gem materials for the 21st century. ( 47","","SMILES ALL ROUND The acid house logo brings a whole new meaning to high jewellery BY SARAH ROYCE-GREENSILL A TOOL FOR RAISING Grin and tonic is Smiley Baby Mythology morale; shorthand for New-Age on the menu for necklace, Smiley Face hippie ideals and the rave scene; the smile high club, \u00a32,500, NOA the bedrock of emoji-era commu- Tatler, July 2022 at harrods.com necklace, nication: an incredible amount of \u00a34,650, significance is contained within didn\u2019t bargain for was the smiley Smiley Face ANNOUSHKA two dots and a curved line. becoming the unofficial logo of pendant, \u00a37,500, the UK acid house scene. Its rebel- Have a Nice Day But the simple smiley has a lious streak came courtesy of DJ JESSICA necklace, \u00a3795, complex past. In 1963, the Danny Rampling, who in 1987 MCCORMACK ROXANNE FIRST graphic designer Harvey Ross Ball used it to promote his new was paid $45 to come up with a London club night Shoom. The Single earring, \u00a3415, E\u00c9RA 49 spirit-lifting drawing to appear on carefree, upbeat vibes were at net-a-porter.com posters and buttons for employees meant to mirror high times at of the State Mutual Life Assurance Amnesia in Ibiza, and the smi- Company, who had experienced ley\u2019s wide grin and wider eyes a series of difficult mergers. He quickly gained a fanbase among a didn\u2019t register it as a trademark; happily hedonistic crowd. and in the 1970s, brothers Bernard and Murray Spain co- In 2007, Anna Faris starred as opted the yellow face for the marijuana cupcake-eating merchandise in their Hallmark protagonist of the film Smiley card shops in Philadelphia, Face (tag line: \u2018High, how adding the slogan \u2018Have a Happy are you?\u2019). And now, half Day\u2019 for a dose of optimism a century after Loufrani during the Vietnam War. registered the design, the smiley is experiencing a Across the Atlantic, in 1972 renaissance as a symbol ] the French journalist Franklin Loufrani trademarked a similar symbol, which was used to high- light good news in the newspaper France-Soir. His Smiley Company licensed the face for use on pretty much every product you can imag- ine \u2013 but one thing the company TATLER","[ of positivity for the #good- 2B Happy bracelet, Happy Face Eternity Smiley necklace, \u00a3270, vibesonly emoji generation. \u00a333,180, necklace, \u00a317,689, STONE AND STRAND LORRAINE SYDNEY EVAN at net-a-porter.com To mark the 50th anniversary SCHWARTZ at of the pop culture logo, the net-a-porter.com Lucky Move XXL COLOUR Smiley Company \u2013 now run by necklace, POA, YOUR Franklin\u2019s son, Nicolas Loufrani Smile earrings, MESSIKA WORLD -\u2013 enlisted more than 50 brands \u00a31,800, to create limited-edition designs TIFFANY & CO. \u2018I\u2019m all about the good vibes, and Neon jewellery to brighten featuring its beaming yellow face. this symbol has become a corner- up your life So Parisian jewellery house memento mori, a reminder to stone of my brand. I look at it and Messika gave the smiley a high- live each day to the fullest.\u2019 feel happy.\u2019 Her smiley is called Neon Pink glam makeover in the Lucky Meanwhile, the latest additions to \u2018Have a Nice Day\u2019 and appears Loveheart ring, Move XXL pendant, where the Annoushka\u2019s Mythology charm in gold, diamond and rainbow \u00a3295, HOTLIPS eyes and grin are cut out amid collection include a smiling face in sapphire on necklaces, signet rings BY SOLANGE hundreds of pav\u00e9-set yellow yellow sapphire and black dia- and huggie hoops. Her bestseller? diamonds, their vivid hue mim- mond with briolette diamond eyes. The diamond-pav\u00e9 necklace\u2026 Fruit Hoops icking that of Loufrani\u2019s original. Because \u2018who wouldn\u2019t love a smi- ring, \u00a34,096, Endlessly versatile, the smiley ley face peppered in diamonds\u2019? ( BOOCHIER \u2018I have always felt attached to also features on Stone and the smiley; it\u2019s such a strong pop Strand\u2019s dainty necklaces, as well Dolce & Double Vine ring, culture symbol that conveys as on whopping great 1970s-style Gabbana \u00a3630, BEA many values,\u2019 says Val\u00e9rie pendants such as Lauren AW21 BONGIASCA at Messika. \u2018A smile is universal and Rubinski\u2019s solid-gold medallion. It net-a-porter.com unifying. It can be charming, can be worn as a single 18-carat Dolce & disarming, laughing, complicit or gold stud (by E\u00e9ra), or strung on a Gabbana Bold ring, \u00a3520, synonymous with hope. It is an necklace of baroque pearls (by AW21 JUPITER at expression of our innate desire Alison Lou). It can be as matchesfashion. to connect with one another: flamboyant as Sydney com smile at life and it will smile Evan\u2019s rivi\u00e8re necklace, Riley ring, back.\u2019 Alongside the oversized comprising 37 dia- \u00a36,410, medallion is a smaller diamond- mond-dusted happy MELISSA encrusted smiley pendant and a faces, or as pared-back KAYE at leather bracelet printed with the as Tiffany & Co.\u2019s sub- net-a-porter.com icon. Talk about democratic tle, smiling T earrings. appeal: there are few motifs that For the nostalgic house- Spread Your work as well on a pair of plastic head with bags of Light ring, pool slides as on a 7.90-carat cash, there\u2019s Lorraine \u00a32,915, diamond necklace. Schwartz\u2019s 2B Happy NEVERNOT bracelet, featuring almost Messika isn\u2019t the only one three carats of diamonds; Neon rings, to have found inspiration in the and for those of more \u00a3985, FRY humble smiley. Rosa de la Cruz\u2019s modest means, there\u2019s Seb POWERS at diamond-pav\u00e9 Smile ring remains Brown\u2019s nine-carat gold signet matchesfashion. emblematic of the 12-year-old ring, with hand-etched eyes and a com brand\u2019s contemporary-art-inspired, childlike grin. Speaking of which, minimalistic aesthetic. \u2018The Smile Noa makes one for kids; the Alliance Torsade ring has universal appeal, across brand\u2019s 18-carat gold Smiley Baby Email ring, ages and genders,\u2019 she says. necklace is the christening gift of \u00a31,474, choice for those who\u2019ve swapped YVONNE L\u00c9ON \u2018It represents a raving boots for knitted booties. Smile ring, Smile ring, \u00a33,195, Superlou \u2018From a very young age \u00a37,365, E\u00c9RA at PHOTOGRAPHS: LUC BRAQUET; MONICA FEUDI ROSA DE LA CRUZ at Diamond we understand what the smiley net-a-porter.com Happy ring, symbolises. It\u2019s globally recog- matchesfashion.com \u00a33,892, TATLER ALISON LOU nised and understood in every language,\u2019 says Roxanne First, who used the face in the branding of her eponymous jewellery line. 50","","SPARKLING, NOT STIRRED HANDMADE IN LONDON SINCE 1980 46 Conduit Street, Mayfair. +44 (0)20 7499 6814 hirshlondon.com","Saluting time-honoured craftsmanship and flourishes of colour, irresistible sparkle and sportiness, Ming Liu dials in with her pick of this year\u2019s fabulous timepieces 2 M\u00e9tiers d\u2019Art 1 5 3 WINNER watches, such as the cloisonn\u00e9 4 1. Vacheron Constantin Tribute enamelwork and handworked TATLER to Great Civilisations guilloch\u00e9 that bring mesmerising To mark a unique cultural texture and emotion to this partnership, Vacheron Constantin one-off, verdant beauty. and the Louvre launched a set of Gold, diamond and leather, POA exceptionally handcrafted watches, created with time-honoured crafts. 4. Arceau Herm\u00e8s Story Think champlev\u00e9 enamel frieze and Conceived by the English illustrator stone marquetry. The pieces depict John Burton, the whimsical some of the greatest works from creatures that populate one of the ancient civilisations; the hard house\u2019s silk scarves informed this part is picking a favourite. watch, which features a miniature Gold, enamel and leather, POA painted dial portraying a princess on a horse. It just goes to show 2. Ulysse Nardin Classico Tiger that watchmaking doesn\u2019t always You can always expect the have to be so serious. unexpected from Ulysse Nardin. Gold, diamond, mother-of-pearl Created to mark the Chinese Year and leather, POA of the Tiger, this watch is limited to 88 pieces, and has a dial which is 5. Bovet Amadeo Amadeo brought to life with champlev\u00e9 Skeleton Tourbillon and paillonn\u00e9 enamelling \u2013 the This one-off piece showcases why latter notably giving extra depth m\u00e9tiers d\u2019art need to be cherished and emotion to the stars and moon. and preserved: a single master- Gold and leather, \u00a336,900 engraver crafted both the case and movement, taking 120 and 100 3. Patek Philippe Tropical hours respectively. Accounting for Forest Rare Handcrafts another 40 hours: hand-painting Patek Philippe\u2019s annual \u2013 and the Madonna dial on the reverse \u2013 ultra-coveted \u2013 Rare Handcrafts on mother-of-pearl, no less. collection is an ode to the Mother-of-pearl, gold and exceptional, painstaking artistic leather, POA crafts that go into decorating 53","It\u2019s complicated 2 WINNER to sporadically appear throughout 3 1. Patek Philippe Ref the day, dashing across the dial. 7121\/200G Gold, diamond, aventurine and 1 One of the most elegant leather, POA 5 moonphase watches around, this 33mm blue-dialled beauty 4. Van Cleef & Arpels Lady 4 features Patek Philippe\u2019s smallest Arpels Ballerine Enchant\u00e9e complicated movement and a Enchantment reigns supreme at double row bezel of132 diamonds. Van Cleef & Arpels. This treasure White gold, diamond and leather, features a retrograde time-on- \u00a332,790 demand mechanism that transforms the ballerina into a butterfly. 2. Louis Vuitton Escale Diamond, leather, enamel and gold, Spin Time Rainbow \u00a3120,000 The fashion house\u2019s signature complication gets the rainbow 5. Breguet Classique treatment, its 12 rotating cubes Calendar 7337 showing 24 numerals and hand- A time-honoured masterclass painted flags. A technicolour treat. in merging a fabled past with Steel and leather, POA modernity, Breguet\u2019s new, beautiful dial is topped with such decorative 3. Jaeger-LeCoultre details as Clous de Paris guilloch\u00e9 Rendez-Vous Dazzling Star and a barleycorn motif dial. Make a wish: this mechanism Gold and leather, \u00a339,300 displays a shooting star that seems 3 Blue in the face 2 WINNER 4 1. Rolex Oyster Perpetual saltwater-proof. Pick the Day-Date 40 matching strap to be true blue. 5 Blue is the new colour on the Steel, \u00a33,800 1 horizon, and here it meets the most desirable watch brand on the planet. 4. Omega x Swatch 1 The result is this piece in Rolex\u2019s Bioceramic MoonSwatch exclusive 950 platinum alloy, with Mission to Uranus an ice-blue dial, completed by By far the most hyped watch of the signature fluted bezel. 2022 \u2013 who can forget the footage Platinum, \u00a350,850 of stampedes outside Swatch stores around the globe? \u2013 the 2. Grand Seiko The \u2018Kishun\u2019 MoonSwatch was set to be Spring \u2018Flow of Seasons\u2019 an icon from the beginning. The You can always count on Japanese new range features \u2013 if not a watchmakers to infuse their designs Swatch for everyone on Earth with a quiet spirituality. This subtly- \u2013 at least a colourway for every grained dial evokes the change of planet, with the Uranus blue seasons from spring to summer, being especially dreamy. inspired by watchmakers\u2019 views Bioceramic and fabric, \u00a3207 from the windows of the Grand Seiko design studio. 5. Hublot Big Bang Integrated Steel and leather, \u00a34,150 Sky Blue Ceramic With its matte blue dial matching the 3. Breitling Superocean sky-blue case, bezel and bracelet Automatic 36 \u2013 all in hardwearing, robust ceramic, What happens when you add to boot \u2013 this eye-catching skeleton performance, sport and a dash of piece uses colour-saturation to zing to the new colour trend? take the trend to the max. A retro-style diver watch that, in Ceramic, \u00a319,900 addition to being water-resistant to 300m, is also shock-, sand- and 54 TATLER","","3 Strapping style 2 4 WINNER 4. Premi\u00e8re Wanted de Chanel 1 1. Dior Print In summer, Chanel launched a The 2022 Dior Print high-jewellery capsule collection of watches aptly Birthday collection was an ode to fabric entitled Wanted \u2013 and boy, are we honours prints, and this secret watch was coveting them all. This one isn\u2019t for especially winning: a graphic wallflowers, with its logo-mania- WINNER pattern of blue and pink sapphires, meets-charm-style bracelet, 1. Tudor Ranger amethysts and diamonds perfectly complete with edgy leather. The British North Greenland echoes the same striking striped Steel, leather and lacquer, \u00a35,100 Expedition of 1952 not only put motif on the strap. scientists and sailors through their Diamond, sapphire, amethyst, 5. Omega De Ville Mini Tr\u00e9sor paces, but also the 26 Oyster gold and lacquer, POA Omega\u2019s new Mini Tr\u00e9sor collection Prince watches that they were given has all the best strap trends down to test, as Tudor\u2019s first automatic 2. Piaget Solstice Extravagant to a tee, including a gorgeous and waterproof models. Seventy Touch Watch toile de Jouy pattern \u2013 available in years on, the new Ranger collection How to make your high-jewellery blue, red or black \u2013 a \u2018double tour\u2019 celebrates that same robust, watch really wow? How about wrap-around strap and an adventure-led, tooling watch spirit. rows of marquise-cut sapphires, ultra-feminine 26mm size. Steel and fabric, \u00a32,170 emeralds and diamonds, Additional models come in complemented on the strap by hammered yellow gold, for a 2. Oris H\u00f6lstein Edition 2022 matching feathers \u2013 from four funky, retro, disco vibe. The independent Swiss different types of birds, mind you \u2013 Steel and fabric, \u00a33,770 watchmaker celebrated its 118th which detach into earrings? birthday by revisiting its Full Steel Gold, sapphire, emerald, diamond, 2 Worldtimer, launched in 1998 and black opal and feathers, POA powered by a pioneering movement that Oris had debuted the previous 3. Swatch The Frame, year. The revival is as stylish and By Frida Kahlo cool as the original model, with Swatch began its long-standing eye-catching red plus and minus partnership with the Centre symbols, and a vintage-chic Pompidou back in 1985, and this 36.5mm case diameter. year found inspiration in such Steel, \u00a33,250 modern-art titans as Kahlo. Plastic and silicone, \u00a383 3. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 5 1 3 A true anniversary watch, the 222 5 4 was created in 1977 to mark as complete with the unmistakable many years since the maison\u2019s yellow gold, funky-fluted bezel and founding and revived this year for one-piece construction case that the piece\u2019s 45th birthday \u2013 make collectors swoon. Gold, \u00a353,500 4. Nomos Tetra Neomatik The new Tetra Neomatik may single-handedly see German watchmaking get the attention it deserves. This square-shaped watch comes in four colours, each produced in a series of 175 pieces, to mark Nomos\u2019s 175th birthday. Steel and leather, \u00a33,060 5. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding x Carolina Bucci Celebrating its 50th birthday this year, this all-black limited edition of the Royal Oak, designed by Carolina Bucci, has an iridescent rainbow dial which reveals a spectrum of hues with a flick of the wrist. Ceramic, \u00a345,700 56 TATLER","Responsibly sourced Zambian emeralds and Mozambican rubies. gemfields.com","5 2 3 4 4 1 2 3 1 Game of tones Shape shifters WINNER 1. Bulgari Giardino WINNER Now, the new Artline \u2013 with an Dell\u2019Eden Tourbillon 5 1. Chanel Mademoiselle ultra-stylish gadroon finish on the For this absolute showstopper, Priv\u00e9 Cage bezel and bracelet \u2013 will entice a we\u2019ll let the numbers do the talking: 4. Tiffany & Co. As if a bejewelled birdcage whole new legion of fans. No 4,400 hours of labour, 6,500 Dandelion Watch necklace were not indulgent wonder it\u2019s limited to 250 pieces. stones, and 76 different All eyes were on Tiffany & Co. enough, the famed French house Steel, \u00a34,800 kinds of bejewelled petals. in 2022, what with the LVMH has tucked away a small watch face Platinum, diamond, tsavorite, merger finally put to bed and an at the base of its diamond-set jewel. 4. Gucci Grip mandarin garnet, opal, emerald, incredible exhibition at the Saatchi This takes its design cue from an When the Gucci Grip first burst onto rock crystal, Paraiba tourmaline, Gallery. Future Blue Book high- object beloved by Coco Chanel, the horological scene in 2019, this ruby and sapphire, POA jewellery collections will also turn which today sits in the Chanel retro-styled watch with its skater- heads, if this diamond watch \u2013 apartment on Paris\u2019s Rue Cambon. meets-streetwear vibe became an 2. Harry Winston Ocean featuring 28 baguette diamonds Gold, diamond and pearl, POA instant classic. This year, those Biretrograde Diamond Waves \u2013 is any kind of teaser. 1970s nods continue \u00e0 la sun- Automatic 36mm White gold and diamond, POA 2. Longines Dolcevita x YVY kissed yellow gold, a clean brushed This sport-luxe bejewelled watch Longines\u2019 classic, art deco-themed finish and natty black leather strap. features double retrograde displays 5. Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch gets an edgy twist thanks to Gold PVD and leather, \u00a31,340 echoing a sapphire-set wave Yacht-Master 40 leather fashion brand YVY, whose pattern on a mother-of-pearl dial. Rolex\u2019s new Yacht-Master takes harness-style body pieces have 5. Coussin de Cartier Gold, diamond, mother-of-pearl, on the jewel-like tones at the won over such fans as Lady Gaga The coussin shape here is a theme sapphire and leather, POA meeting of sky and sea. Or in and Billie Eilish. The straps can be that goes way beyond form: the jewellery-watch-speak: a quintet fully detached to wear solo \u2013 oh, case is actually crafted in a golden 3. Ondes et Merveilles de of diamonds and sapphires in and YVY has created body mesh of gemstones, which means Chaumet Escales pink, purple and shades of blue. harnesses to match. the watch can contract, deform and The ocean was muse for Chaumet\u2019s Gold, sapphire, diamond and Steel and leather, \u00a31,420 bounce right back to its original high jewellery collection this year. rubber, \u00a367,650 dimensions. Shapeshifting indeed. Escales captures a suspended 3. Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Gold, diamond, sapphire, moment in time, a shoreline of bold The Franco-Swiss watchmaker\u2019s tsavorite, emerald, tourmaline red spinels shimmering within cockpit-inspired, circle-in-a-square and leather, POA translucent sapphire waters. shape has made it a cult brand. White gold, rose gold, diamond, red garnet, spinel, Paraiba tourmaline and sapphire, POA 58 TATLER","","2 Race against time 3 WINNER radiates from light to dark for a 1. Richard Mille RM smoky yet subtle and sophisticated 54 UP-01 Ferrari look \u2013 is limited to 500 pieces. 1 One of the year\u2019s most highly Steel and leather, \u00a35,950 anticipated collaborations, the Call of the wild debut ultra-flat RM UP-01not only 4. Bremont Waterman Apex caused a sensation with its new This watch doesn\u2019t merely merge shape \u2013 a complete departure from nautical good looks and technical Richard Mille\u2019s usual signature \u2013 but diving specs. (Check the helium the horologist and carmaker also escape valve and crown protector outdid themselves technically: at at 2 o\u2019clock, and the shark-fin-and- 1.75mm thick, this is now the wave-motif dial.) Sale proceeds world\u2019s thinnest watch. help fund research for the marine Platinum and leather, \u00a31,527,000 non-profit Bimini Shark Lab. Steel and rubber, \u00a34,795 2. G-Shock x Bamford London DW-6900BWD-1ER 5. Blancpain Air-Command Following a sell-out collaboration Blancpain\u2019s aviation-themed watch in 2020, Bamford London and may be decidedly feminine in its G-Shock have followed up with a excellent 36.2mm size, but there\u2019s second crowd-pleaser. Bamford\u2019s nothing \u2018shrink it and pink it\u2019 about signature aqua-blue now comes this timepiece. A countdown bezel in three different shades, and flyback chronograph add accenting G-Shock\u2019s covetable, sporting cred, while a titanium retro-styled model 6900. case is the cherry on top. Resin and rubber, \u00a3149 Titanium and leather, \u00a324,500 3. TAG Heuer Monaco Purple 1 Dial Limited Edition Gradient dials have been trending for some time. This special-edition Monaco \u2013 with a purple dial that WINNER swimming freely about the dial. 5 1. Cartier Crash M\u00e9tiers d\u2019Art Ethical gold, diamond, topaz, 2 The Cartier Crash is having a mother-of-pearl, opal and moment. While vintage models are leather, POA 3 going for \u00a31.2 million at auction \u2013 yes, really \u2013 the brand is looking 4. Dolce & Gabbana DG7 4 ahead. This new creation oozes all Special Leopardo the house\u2019s best design tropes: a You can always count on Dolce & blue-and-green colour combo and Gabbana for a smashing good wall-to-wall audacity and verve. leopard-print. This bejewelled Gold, diamond and leather, POA piebald pattern comes courtesy of brown and black diamonds, making 2. Konstantin Chaykin it at once maximalist yet chic. Smilodon Gold and diamond, POA If watchmaking today is about irreverent designs that make you 5. Girard-Perregaux La smile, then Russian Konstantin Esmeralda Tourbillon Chaykin\u2019s googly-eyed creations \u2018A Secret\u2019 Eternity Edition \u2013 such as this one, made for A prize-winning 1889 pocket watch 2022\u2019s Year of the Tiger \u2013 will was the starting point for this have you laughing out loud. tourbillon secret watch, complete Iron, bronze and leather, \u00a327,000 with elaborately engraved and enamelled gold case and lugs, and 3. Chopard Happy Sport a caseback that opens like the M\u00e9tiers d\u2019Art Polar Bear original, its cover adorned with Using ethical gold, this watch prancing horses in a guilloch\u00e9 not only highlights Chopard\u2019s pattern that echoes the underlying commitment to sustainable luxury, grand feu enamelling. it\u2019s also especially playful and Gold and leather, \u00a3346,000 fun, with its bear and diamonds 60 TATLER","","2 Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra, 3 1963. Right, painted limestone 4 head of Queen Nefertiti 1 FIT FOR NEFERTITI WAS A GREAT QUEEN. SHE HAD IT ALL. A QUEEN Power, looks and unimaginable wealth. Her name meant \u2018a beautiful woman has come\u2019 and she ruled alongside her husband Beetle mania, sacred blues, 2 Pharaoh Akhenaten during the 14th century BC in ancient Egypt. symbolic amulets: the richly Their palace was bedecked in gold, with painted vultures flying bejewelled Nefertiti and across the ceiling of the great hall. Having started a cult dedicated Cleopatra continue to inspire to the glittering sun god Aten \u2013 to whom they linked themselves in homages to ancient Egypt a divine triad \u2013 the couple made daily journeys in chariots tellingly made of gold. Nefertiti even had her own gold mines between the By MELANIE GRANT Red Sea and the Nile, and commissioned her smiths to make elaborate jewellery, using granulation and filigree techniques and employing such stones as turquoise, lapis lazuli and amethyst. Her attractions amplified by such pieces, she was quite literally a goddess. It was extraordinary, more than 3,000 years ago, for a woman to rule as the equal of a man. But Nefertiti was anything but ordinary. \u2018[The] strength [of the Egyptian queens] during this period is a perfect match to the spirit and mood of my jewellery,\u2019 says Val\u00e9rie Messika, whose new collection Beyond the Light is a retro-futuristic homage to ancient Egypt. Nestled among her golden chokers and diamond stacking rings is a magnificent necklace in white gold and diamonds \u2013 part of a set called Akh-Ba-Ka, which symbolises the transfiguration of a 62 TATLER"]