Tatler

["\u2018The strength of the Egyptian queens 8 during this period is a perfect match to the spirit and mood of my jewellery,\u2019 5 says Val\u00e9rie Messika Claudette Colbert in the lead role of Cleopatra, directed by Cecil B de Mille in 1934 65 7 person towards light \u2013 and dangling from its winged scarab is a 9 10 33-carat centre stone. \u2018A diamond is energy,\u2019 she says. \u2018The contact with your skin is a transfer of that energy.\u2019 11 12 The humble scarab beetle runs riot through the history of ancient 1 Victorian beetle brooch, \u00a311,340, Egypt and stands for \u2018renewal of life\u2019 in the complex hieroglyphic PRAGNELL. 2 & 3 Carnella necklace writing system. The Rosetta Stone, a monument found in 1799, and Alessia earrings with chalcedony goes some way to deciphering these symbols which still appear in scarabs, both POA, LITO FINE modern jewellery. In 1905, the art nouveau master Ren\u00e9 Lalique JEWELLERY. 4 Scarab ring, designed a giant scarab necklace in moulded green glass with black \u00a312,604, BIBI VAN DER VELDEN. enamel, which is currently available at Wartski. Bibi van der Velden 5 Amulet necklace, \u00a310,830, has incorporated the responsibly sourced wings of scarabs into her OKTAAF. 6 Bracelet, POA, GLENN jewellery; Lito has included a shimmering blue and green SPIRO. 7 Pyramid ring, \u00a38,900, chalcedony swarm of them in her Il Paradiso collection; and each PRAGNELL. 8 Lalique necklace piece is an amulet keeping history alive. c1905, POA, WARTSKI. 9 Akh-Ba-Ka necklace, POA, But the ancient Egyptians weren\u2019t just beetles fans: they also MESSIKA. 10 Asiyah earrings, believed cats were magical and gave them their own jewels to \u00a327,000, DAVID MORRIS. 11 Venym wear. Silvia Furmanovich has depicted a pair of felines in turquoise brooch, \u00a314,500, THEO FENNELL. on marquetry earrings dedicated to the cat-goddess Bastet. 12 Egyptomania earrings, POA, Meanwhile, Pragnell\u2019s sculptural cocktail rings and Liv Luttrell\u2019s LYDIA COURTEILLE dramatic spear-tip earrings, anchored by cadillac-cut white diamonds, honour the pyramids. Theo Fennell\u2019s serpent Venym brooch, in tsavorite and yellow sapphires, and Oktaaf\u2019s fly pins and heart amulets really do conjure up the dust and heat of ancient times. Meanwhile, Angie Marei\u2019s Pharaoh collection references the shendyts (kilts) worn by deities and royalty. But perhaps the most pervasive motif is the all-seeing eye \u2013 with Lydia Courteille suspending kohl-rimmed eyes from original artefacts in her Egyptomania collection, as sported by Nicole Kidman during the autumn 2022 Paris couture shows. It was Napoleon\u2019s doomed invasion of Egypt in 1798 that led to the discovery of the Rosetta Stone and a deeper European interest in the ancient culture. But it wasn\u2019t until November 1922, when the British Egyptologist Howard Carter discovered ] TATLER 63","1 2 3 \u2018She was strong, she ruled an empire and all the men were falling at her feet. She just controlled everything,\u2019 says Satta Matturi of the Egyptian queen in the 1972 film Antony and Cleopatra Ta-Seti earrings by Matturi Fine 4 was born and raised in Cairo, continues to be Jewellery \u2013 ancient Egyptians spoken. \u2018Blue is important in our culture referred to the southern Egyptian because it wards off evil,\u2019 she says. region as Ta-Seti, \u2018the land of \u2018Inside the tombs, the colours are still the bow and arrow\u2019 there,\u2019 she adds. \u2018Even in the jewellery from the enamel. Despite [Tutankhamun\u2019s tomb in the Valley 5 our technology, we\u2019re not as of the Kings, that all hell broke loose. advanced as they were.\u2019 At Hemmerle, they often combine More than 5,000 treasures and jewels blues and greens in their wonderful Egyptian pieces, which range from were excavated \u2013 among them serpents micro-mosaic pharaoh earrings to faience birds in tsavorite. And they\u2019re and scarabs in lapis lazuli, carnelian, not alone: Glenn Spiro also has a thing for ancient Egyptian ceramic and obsidian and red jasper \u2013 as well as the boy turquoise combined with titanium, but gold king\u2019s most precious coffin, made of solid was really the underlying colour of Egypt, as not only Nefertiti bore witness. More than 1,000 years gold. Its discovery sparked an Egyptian revival after she came to the throne, another queen was born, so intoxicating that even Shakespeare wrote about her. Cleopatra. which, when fused with art deco, changed the course And she was all about gold. Nefertiti was famed for her beauty, but Cleopatra had more than of jewellery design. physical presence: she also had skills. Fiercely intelligent, a for- midable naval commander and an arch-strategist, she was also a Heavyweights such as Cartier devoted whole collections to the legendary femme fatale whose conquests included Julius Caesar and Mark Antony. Taking the throne at 18, she ruled in Alexandria subject. And the sacred lapis lazuli and turquoise combo \u2013 partnered for 21 years \u2013 often adorned in huge emeralds \u2013 before her ancient kingdom was taken over by Rome. Her tomb has never been found. with the animals so beloved by the Egyptians \u2013 continues to appear Rome may have waged a war on Cleopatra then, but in a twist of fate, the city\u2019s top jeweller, Bulgari, was commissioned to make in its work. From 1920s vanity cases and scarab brooches to the Elizabeth Taylor sparkle in Cleopatra, the famously extravagant film gold collars of the 1980s and 90s, and last year\u2019s Sixi\u00e8me Sens collection, the house has remained in thrall to the pharaohs \u2013 as has British jeweller David Morris, whose Asiyah collection is inspired by the treasures of Tutankhamun discovered a century ago. Then there are a host of dealers (not least Pushkin Antiques at Grays, the Mayfair antiques market) who sell revival jewels in solid gold. What also emerged from all the archaeological digs was a language of colour which, according to Yasmin Hemmerle, who 64 TATLER","9 10 6 11 1 Scarab brooch, POA, CARTIER. 2 Horus earrings, POA, HEMMERLE. 3 Bastet earrings, 8 POA, SILVIA FURMANOVICH. 4 & 5 Scarab necklace and scarab brooch, both POA, CARTIER. 6 Asiyah necklace, POA, DAVID MORRIS. 7 Earrings, \u00a377,500, 12 PRAGNELL. 8 Earrings with 19th-century micro mosaics, POA, HEMMERLE. 9 Serpenti Ocean Treasure necklace, POA, BULGARI. 10 Scarab revival bracelet, POA, PUSHKIN ANTIQUES AT GRAYS 7 ANTIQUES. 11 Earrings, \u00a37,100, LIV LUTTRELL. 12 Brooch, \u00a386, CLEOPATRA\u2019S BLING PHOTOGRAPHS: COLLECTION CHRISTOPHEL\/ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES; JOHN KOBAL FOUNDATION\/GETTY IMAGES released in 1963. And it was while wearing Bulgari\u2019s jewels that Richard Burton as Mark Taylor entered into an explosive love affair with Richard Burton, Antony and Elizabeth Taylor as setting social etiquette on fire. In the beginning, they were Cleopatra in the 1963 film unimpressed with each other: he called her a \u2018fat little tart\u2019 and she defiantly stated she would be the one leading lady that Richard Burton would never get. But in the end, their romance eclipsed the film itself, particularly when it came out that they had ditched their respective spouses. They married shortly afterwards\u2026 the bride wearing Bulgari. Taylor set the bar high, in life and in art. (Fingers crossed for Gal Gadot, who is set to play Cleopatra in a new film, rumoured for release next year.) And so did the real Egyptian queen. \u2018When I was a little girl in Sierra Leone, we watched the film Antony and Cleopatra many times,\u2019 says Satta Matturi, an African art-deco specialist, of the 1972 production. \u2018She was strong, she ruled an empire and all the men were falling at her feet. She just controlled everything.\u2019 But during her reign, there was another great female monarch to her south: the Nubian Queen Amanirenas, who held sway over a kingdom centred on southern Egypt. Famous for its riches, especially its gold, it was known as Kush. She was a supreme warrior, having won initial victories against the Romans. Her crown passed to her daughter Amanishakheto, and Matturi\u2019s abstract Ta-Seti earrings from her Whispers of Mero\u00eb collection pay tribute to them, as well as to the black Pharoahs of the 25th dynasty. All these queens had one thing in common. They were seductive, dangerous, powerful and bedecked. As deities, generals, lovers, mothers and monarchs, their flamboyant styles have affected everything from luxury design to tactical warfare. When we wear their revivalist jewels today, we slip willingly into their world of rebirth and transformation. Sharing their stories enables the spirit of who they were to live on. And what better way to honour them? ( TATLER","Dress, \u00a38,400, and tights, \u00a3120, both VALENTINO. Gloves, POA, NO 21. Yellow gold, white gold and diamond earrings and necklace, both POA, GRAFF. White gold, ruby and diamond ring, POA, DAVID MORRIS Go regal with rubies, drip in diamonds and party in peridot \u2013 these are the stones you\u2019ll take a shine to Photographs by DANIEL SACHON Styled by LYDIE HARRISON Jewellery Editor CHARLIE MILLER TATLER","She wears dress, \u00a35,905, VERSACE. Hat, \u00a3985, EMILY LONDON. Gloves, \u00a3100, PAULA ROWAN. Diamond and platinum earrings, necklace, bracelet and rings, all POA, HARRY WINSTON. He wears shirt, jacket, trousers, bow tie and cummerbund, worn throughout, all POA, BRIONI TATLER 67","She wears white gold, sapphire and diamond earrings, POA, PIAGET. White gold, emerald and diamond necklace, POA, DAVID MORRIS. He wears clothes, as before TATLER","She wears jumpsuit, \u00a36,755, CAROLINA HERRERA. White gold, sapphire, onyx and diamond earrings; white gold, emerald, onyx and diamond ring (her left hand); white gold, emerald, onyx and diamond bracelet (her right hand); all POA, CARTIER. White gold and diamond necklace; white gold, rock crystal and diamond ring (her right index finger); white gold, rock crystal and diamond ring (her right ring finger); all POA, DE BEERS. He wears clothes, as before. Bag, \u00a32,540, TYLER ELLIS. White gold and diamond cufflinks, \u00a37,650, and yellow gold signet ring, \u00a33,300, both ASPREY TATLER","TATLER","Top, \u00a32,255, and skirt, \u00a31,265, both RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION. Bag, \u00a32,088, TYLER ELLIS. White gold and diamond earrings; platinum and diamond necklace; sapphire, diamond and pink gold bracelet (her left hand); platinum and diamond ring (her left hand); white gold and diamond bracelet and ring (her right hand), all POA, BULGARI Opposite page, she wears dress, \u00a33,230, ETRO. Yellow gold and diamond earrings, \u00a381,500; yellow gold and diamond necklace, \u00a3172,000; yellow gold and diamond bracelet (her left hand), \u00a3107,500; yellow gold and diamond bracelet (her right hand), \u00a3253,500; all TIFFANY & CO. SCHLUMBERGER. He wears clothes, as before. Cufflinks, stylist\u2019s own TATLER 71","72 TATLER","She wears jacket, \u00a31,750, and trousers, \u00a3695, both FENDI. Gloves, \u00a3395, PAULA ROWAN. White gold, yellow gold, beryl and diamond earrings, \u00a348,000, BUCCELLATI. Yellow gold and diamond bracelet; yellow gold, peridot, sapphire, rubellite, garnet and diamond ring; both POA, BOODLES. Yellow gold, yellow sapphire and diamond ring, POA, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY. He wears clothes and jewellery, as before. Opposite page, she wears top, \u00a31,295; trousers, \u00a3670; both MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION. Head scarf, stylist\u2019s own. White gold, ruby and diamond earrings, POA, CHOPARD. White gold, yellow gold, sapphire and diamond bracelet, POA, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS. White gold and diamond ring, POA, DIOR JOAILLERIE. He wears clothes and jewellery, as before. Bag, POA, CHANEL TATLER","She wears shirt, \u00a3515, RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION. Trousers, \u00a3710, ERMANNO SCERVINO. Shoes, \u00a3795, JIMMY CHOO. Platinum and diamond earrings, necklace and ring (her left hand), all POA, TASAKI TATLER","She wears dress, \u00a31,270, EMILIA WICKSTEAD. White gold and diamond earrings and ring, both POA, MESSIKA. He wears clothes, as before For stockists, see Address Book. Hair: Daniel Dyer. Make-up: Terry Barber at David Artists. Nails: Maria McKenna. Models: Tosin Olajire at Select; Edson Gomes at Forte Model Management. Stylist\u2019s assistant: Aline Swoboda. Digital technician: Trudi Treble. Lighting assistant: Mary Kaleci\u0144ska. Production by Camilla Fitz-Patrick TATLER","A S P R E Y. C O M COSMIC COLLECTION 3 6 B R U TO N S T R E E T, M AY FA I R , W 1 J 6 QX","A SHORE Claire Choisne, creative Bois Diamant THING director of Boucheron brooch, POA Escapist fantasies inspired Boucheron\u2019s Galet diamond exquisite renditions of beauty in nature and pebble necklace, POA By FELIX BISCHOF Rotin Diamant collar CLAIRE CHOISNE IS LOOKING BACK. necklace, POA \u2018Carte Blanche, Ailleurs was imagined in early 2020, when the world was in lockdown,\u2019 she says. Sequestered Coquillage Diamant in Portugal, the creative director of Parisian heritage pendant earrings, POA maison Boucheron found the change in pace and a new way of living inspiring. She let her imagination fly: \u2018My Fleur de Paradis dream was to escape \u2013 and working on this collection hair clip, POA was a way to travel, through my imagination.\u2019 Ailleurs \u2013 one of Boucheron\u2019s five Carte Blanche collections \u2013 is an escapist fantasy that artfully breaks with tradition. \u2018The name means \u201celsewhere\u201d in French,\u2019 says Choisne. \u2018And this \u201celsewhere\u201d is somewhere in nature, without any geographical constraints or creative limits. It comprises five imaginary worlds, each offering a different atmosphere and sensation.\u2019 Choisne brings a meticulous approach to creating high-jewellery collections \u2013 two a year \u2013 which she debuts during Paris Haute Couture Week. Since joining Boucheron in 2011, she has become known as a creative force whose works revel in the unexpected. Carte Blanche was to be no different. \u2018I wanted to go beyond the idea of a traditional parure, which is gen- erally composed of a matching necklace, bracelet and earrings. Within each of the five sets, these Boucheron pieces are linked to each other through colours, sensation and emotions,\u2019 she explains. \u2018I also wanted to pay tribute to raw materials found in nature and mix them with traditional jewellery materials such as diamonds and gold. Nature is the best designer in the world, so we used the likes of pebbles, shells, butterflies and rattan. For each, we had to look for new tools and new ways of working. Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Boucheron was a pioneer when it comes to creativity and technique, since the very beginning in 1858,\u2019 she says. \u2018Today, we continue his tradition of innovation and daring by maintaining a freedom to create.\u2019 Thus, when combining seashells and diamonds in a pair of Coquillage Diamant earrings, the challenge was finding two shells similar enough. As Choisne relates, \u2018Finding one I liked was easy. But I was also searching for symmetry: we had to find a second one that looked identical\u2026 We then scanned both shells to determine their volumes, so that we could recreate their inner and outer parts in white gold.\u2019 Bringing Ailleurs into being proved an intense experience: \u2018We had a lot of doubts but, in the end, it all worked out,\u2019 she reflects. \u2018The best part was when I saw the results in the final pieces and they matched what I originally had in my head. I was so happy, I had a big smile all over my face.\u2019 ] TATLER","Tribute to Paris ODE TO necklace, POA GEMS Rubellite, amethyst, Bulgari\u2019s Eden, the Garden of Wonders collection diamond and pink takes a cue from spectacular stones, says Lucia Silvestri gold ring, POA By FELIX BISCHOF Emerald, diamond and platinum ring, POA TO LUCIA SILVESTRI, IT\u2019S WHAT LIES OUTSIDE Silvestri choosing her atelier in Rome that proves inspiring. There is the cityscape, of gemstones for high course, with all its millennia of historical significance; but jewellery pieces Lucia Silvestri, there is also the natural world. \u2018The beauty of nature is a con- Rubellite, tourmaline, Bulgari\u2019s executive tinuous source of inspiration, both for myself and for the amethyst, diamond and pink team at Bulgari,\u2019 says the heritage brand\u2019s executive creative gold bracelet, POA creative director, director of jewellery. \u2018Everything to do with it \u2013 the colours, looking for the shapes, the scents. And every Bulgari collection includes Mediterranean Reverie inspiration necklace, POA in India elements and shapes found there.\u2019 It\u2019s a penchant evident throughout Bulgari\u2019s collections. \u2018Think of the flowers found in the Fiorever jewellery,\u2019 she says, by way of example. \u2018Emeralds, too, have long been dear to Bulgari,\u2019 she continues. And it was while designing her latest high- jewellery collection that the green-hued gem came to the fore. \u2018Eden, the Garden of Wonders is an ode to the emerald. For a few years, we have collected beautiful examples and kept them aside, waiting for the right moment to use them. And that moment came this year, with this collection. After all, green is one of the main colours of the pieces.\u2019 The gem makes a star appearance in one of the collection\u2019s hero pieces. \u2018They are the absolute protagonists of our Tribute to Paris necklace, which celebrates the artistic bond that exists between Rome and Paris, two of the most exceptional cities in the world,\u2019 says Silvestri. \u2018Sparkling as bright as the most glamorous Parisian nights, the necklace required 2,000 working hours to be crafted by hand. It features an incredible 35.53-carat Colombian cabochon-cut emerald, surrounded by inlays of emer- alds and diamonds, which evoke the silhouette of the Eiffel Tower.\u2019 The bond between Bulgari and Rome, where the house was established in 1884, is the stuff of storybooks, but the brand and Silvestri also have deep connections with the City of Light. \u2018To me, Paris represents jewellery tradition,\u2019 she says. \u2018It was there that I made my first steps in this industry, and where I made my first business travels with the Bulgari brothers. So it represents my beginnings \u2013 and it\u2019s in my heart. It really deserved a tribute.\u2019 So does she have a favourite gem in Eden, the Garden of Wonders? \u2018I think every stone in this collection is magnificent and has a unique story,\u2019 she replies. \u2018But perhaps the most special to me is the spectacular 107-carat sapphire set in the Mediterranean Reverie necklace. It was very difficult carving it from the rough stone. And I have to say, the result is outstanding. Designed to amaze, the Mediterranean Reverie necklace is one of the most precious creations we have ever realised.\u2019 TATLER","STAR City of Lights APPEAL brooch, POA Caroline Scheufele of Chopard pays tribute to eternal Red Carpet cinematic glamour in the 2022 Red Carpet collection necklace in peridot, tsavorite, apatite, By FELIX BISCHOF sapphire, amethyst, rubellite, mandarin HOW DO YOU DAZZLE ON THE RED CARPET? THERE garnet, spessarite, gold and titanium, are few experts who could rival Caroline Scheufele in answering. POA \u2018Be yourself!\u2019 says the co-president of Chopard. \u2018A successful red- Red Carpet necklace in yellow diamond, carpet appearance is one that expresses your personality \u2013 white gold and yellow gold, POA which is one of the reasons our annual Red Carpet high Red Carpet jewellery collection is so diverse.\u2019 Scheufele has been diamond earrings, POA dreaming up the Swiss brand\u2019s offerings since the Red Carpet diamond 1980s, and her creations debuted in Cannes have and gemstone cuff bracelet, POA become a key factor in red-carpet success. \u2018I want every woman to see herself in at least one of the pieces,\u2019 she says. And that includes Hollywood stars. \u2018I always think of Julia Roberts, who walked the red carpet barefoot in 2016. She was splendid \u2013 wearing a unique emerald necklace and a black dress. \u201cWith jewellery like this, who needs shoes?\u201d she said.\u2019 But it\u2019s not just Chopard\u2019s jewellery that shines at Cannes; it\u2019s the glittering prizes. As Scheufele explains: \u2018Our affiliation with the film festival began in 1997, when I met Pierre Viot, then its director. I was looking at the Palme d\u2019Or on display in his office and he kindly invited me to redesign the iconic award. What a dream! I immediately accepted the challenge, and the following year the new Palme d\u2019Or was unveiled to the world.\u2019 Cinema and the long-term relationship with the film festival is important to Scheufele. The 2022 jewellery collection was certainly a blockbuster. \u2018Every year, we choose a main theme, and this year it was cinema,\u2019 she says. Charlie Chaplin was her main muse; on her moodboard is an image from City Lights, released in 1931. \u2018It sparked the idea of a pre- cious rose brooch because, in one of the memorable scenes, a little girl gives a rose to Chaplin, who plays Caroline Scheufele, a tramp. But I also created it as a tribute to black and Chopard co-president white movies, so the rose is entirely set with white diamonds, and has a black titanium stem.\u2019 From Chaplin to Hitchcock. \u2018To Catch a Thief is one of the many classic movies that I love,\u2019 says Scheufele. \u2018In tribute, I con- jured up the most exceptional diamond necklace: very classic yet contemporary. The short necklace features a fabulous 13.69-carat flawless D-grade pear-shaped diamond; and for me, it perfectly embodies Hollywood glamour.\u2019 The collection also includes vibrantly hued gemstones. \u2018The time is right for colour,\u2019 she says, \u2018and I\u2019m always very adventurous with it.\u2019 ] TATLER","Francesca SPIRITED Amfitheatrof, AWAY watches and jewellery artistic The power of mythical creatures is encapsulated director for in a bold new collection from Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton By FELIX BISCHOF Grace necklace with 65-carat tsavorite, POA \u2018WE DO ONE COLLECTION A YEAR,\u2019 SAYS Francesca Amfitheatrof, who in 2018 was announced Radiance ring, POA as the artistic director of watches and jewellery for Louis Vuitton. \u2018So this is my fourth. And we have very quickly Liberty earrings, POA established ourselves as a bit of a powerhouse. I mean, we are like babies in this category \u2013 because you do have all the big A mock-up of the jewellery houses that have been doing this for hundreds of years \u2013 Destiny necklace but we are very ambitious!\u2019 That ambition that can also be felt in the scope of her collection. Destiny necklace, POA \u2018There were only 60 pieces in the first few collections; now, we have 150. We established ourselves as the house for coloured stones and we created our own diamond cut. So we\u2019re on fire.\u2019 Her latest high-jewellery offering is called Spirit. \u2018It\u2019s a little esoteric,\u2019 she says of the group of small treasures. \u2018But it\u2019s about the essence of Louis Vuitton right now. I created two mythical creatures \u2013 the dragon and the phoenix \u2013 which represent the Louis Vuitton woman to me. So, it\u2019s really about asking: \u201cWhat is the Vuitton spirit? Who is the Vuitton woman?\u201d\u2019 And naturally she has the answer. \u2018It\u2019s big necklaces, quite dramatic, big pieces. And there are a lot of emerald-cut coloured stones. That\u2019s very unusual \u2013 but if coloured stones are cut oval or round, they really retain their colour. So to see an emerald-cut ruby of more than 10 carats is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. I had never seen one before in my career and I will never see one again because to have an immaculate 10-carat ruby \u2013 which is big for a ruby \u2013 with a consistent red tone throughout the stone is almost unheard of.\u2019 From ruby red to green. \u2018We also have a tsavorite at 65 carats \u2013 it\u2019s shapped like an egg \u2013 and that\u2019s super-unusual, too,\u2019 says Amfitheatrof. \u2018It\u2019s on the Grace necklace, and because all these stones are removable, you can wear it on a chain. With the Destiny necklace, you can remove the ruby and wear it as a solitaire ring, or replace the ruby with a diamond.\u2019 That such treasures were found during the pandemic, when the mines were closed, makes Amfitheatrof\u2019s achievement even more remarkable. And who else would dare to create their own diamond cut in the shape of a flower or a star? \u2018It\u2019s absolutely bonkers,\u2019 she says. \u2018But we did it, and now we do have these strong signature elements.\u2019 \u2018To me,\u2019 she continues, \u2018the maison feels very strong. Very curious and very adventurous. Stimulating. Always moving forward. And my jewellery shares those values.\u2019 TATLER","TIMELESS Cartouche JEWELS earrings, POA Krishna Choudhary fuses opulent, historic gems Krishna Choudhary with striking contemporary design for Santi in his Mayfair salon By FELIX BISCHOF Saras Sudan, the family\u2019s ancestral seat in Jaipur A VISIT TO KRISHNA CHOUDHARY\u2019S ELEGANT pied-\u00e0-terre in Mayfair quickly turns into a fascinating Paisley earrings, lesson about jewellery from India. \u2018I would like visitors to POA my Santi showroom to appreciate the jewellery they see there through a new lens,\u2019 says Choudhary. And as a 10th- Chevron Bombe generation jeweller, he is an expert guide. His family is today ring, POA guardian of a collection of rare pieces that rivals many museum holdings \u2013 most of them stored at Saras Sadan, their Krishna Chevron resplendent ancestral seat located in the Old City of Jaipur, Choudhary and earrings, POA Rajasthan\u2019s capital. Since the 1970s, Choudhary\u2019s father Santi his father, Santi, PH has introduced the family\u2019s knowledge to the west, in the shape at their haveli of his Royal Gems and Arts company. And in 2019, Choudhary set up Santi, his contemporary jewellery house. But back to the past. \u2018The very best Indian pieces are not just about overwhelmingly opulent jewels but about the quality of the historic gems they hold,\u2019 says Choudhary. \u2018The more time you spend working with them, the more you develop an appreciation for the fact that many of the stones were cut centuries ago by hand, by the very finest craftsmen. As a result, the gems have a softness and character that isn\u2019t apparent in most modern jewellery.\u2019 It is Choudhary\u2019s historical grounding that has guided his work at Santi. \u2018Understanding the importance of jewellery from earlier Indian dynasties \u2013 and the know-how that fashioned it \u2013 has definitely shaped my own take.\u2019 His is a balance of tradi- tion and modernity. This can be felt \u2013 and most importantly seen \u2013 in his recent output. He talks of combining \u2018minimalism and an abstract use of dark metal with custom-cut diamonds and a new colour palette that includes turquoises\u2019. Yet, he adds, \u2018My style is always evolving, and I find myself working more and more with negative space and complex patterns realised in minimalistic colours. Chevron is an element that resonates with me and I also find myself increasingly incorporating waves within my work.\u2019 Choudhary\u2019s personal education in his art began early on. \u2018I spent much of my childhood watching my father discussing stones and antique jewellery at our haveli [mansion] in Jaipur, and learnt so much about jewellery and its historical context from him,\u2019 he recalls. \u2018And I still remember the time, when I was about 10 years old, that my father showed me a star sapphire, which remains in our collection today. I really couldn\u2019t believe that something so beautiful could exist. It has an enormous light shining from within, which inspired such a sense of wonder in me that I\u2019ve never forgotten it.\u2019 ( TATLER","1 2 5 3 4 6 7 IN THE SWING 8 9 For whimsical flair and \u00e9lan, time beneath a cameo of Coco Chanel in 18-carat beige gold. nothing beats a pendant watch Meanwhile, Mademoiselle Priv\u00e9 Cage is inspired by the birdcage in her Rue Cambon apartment: \u2018I wanted to reinterpret it in the shape By MILENA LAZAZZERA of a sautoir that secretly tells the time,\u2019 says Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio. Lift the WHEN IT COMES TO HAVING TIME ON YOUR HANDS \u2018cage\u2019, and the time is displayed on a dial of gold and diamonds. (or at least near them) trust a woman to have the best idea \u2013 the lady Different, no? That\u2019s certainly the view of Philippe Delhotal, horological creative director at Herm\u00e8s. \u2018Pendant watches are less in question being Hungarian Countess Koscowicz. Well into the common,\u2019 he says. Explaining the latest metamorphosis of the Kelly watch, he goes on: \u2018Our wish was to create a singular object, a spar- 19th century, watches were carried in pockets or dangled from chat- kling and whimsical creation stepping aside from conventions, expressing Herm\u00e8s\u2019s vision of time.\u2019 The original Kelly watch was elaines (decorative belt hooks). But in 1868, she commissioned launched in 1975; now the padlock-dial can be removed from the wrist and attached to a leather cord for wearing around the neck. Patek Philippe to create a timepiece she could wear as the centre- Several houses are also reinterpreting their classics as sautoir stone of a bracelet. She called it a \u2018wristlet\u2019 \u2013 we call it a wristwatch. watches. Bulgari has created an opulent Monete secret pendant watch, boasting a genuine ancient Roman coin. And Van Cleef & The pendant watch \u2013 another woman\u2019s invention \u2013 came to Arpels has reimagined its iconic Alhambra design as a secret pendant watch that features such juicy, coloured gems as carnelian. prominence in the Roaring Twenties. \u2018Their attraction to the Van Cleef & Arpels says it has \u2018a strong tradition of jewels that tell wearer,\u2019 says Henry Bailey, head of the jewellery department at the time, and chain watches have been present in the maison\u2019s history since its origins\u2019. Dolce & Gabbana\u2019s new pendant watch, Christie\u2019s in London, \u2018was that it enabled them to discreetly carry a Marco Polo, is the swankiest example to have appeared for a while. timepiece concealed in the form of a jewel.\u2019 But it was another cen- This sautoir watch hangs from an ornate chain; the rectangular, hand-engraved case framing a tury until watchmakers again suggested that the most stylish thing golden lion that supports a nephrite disc on which the time is displayed. to do with time was to hang it from your neck. \u2018I like the idea of Time is precious. And if you wear any of these jewellery that tells the time, and find it amusing to wear a watch as a pendants, you won\u2019t be wasting it. ( pendant,\u2019 says Victoire de Castellane, creative director of Dior 1 Perl\u00e9e; 6 & 7 Alhambra; 8 Ludo, all VAN CLEEF & ARPELS. 2 & 3 Kelly, HERM\u00c8S. 4 Marco Polo, DOLCE Joaillerie. The house has introduced two pendant models of its & GABBANA. 5 Monete, BULGARI. 9 Gem Dior, DIOR JOAILLERIE. All POA iconic Gem Dior watch \u2013 one with jazzy Mademoiselle malachite, the other with delicate aragonite dials. Priv\u00e9 Cage is inspired by It\u2019s a look that has also found favour at Chanel. Coco Chanel\u2019s Directly inspired by its founder, the house has own birdcage created three pendant watches. The Hors-S\u00e9rie Mademoiselle Priv\u00e9 Bouton necklace is an elegant sautoir of carved onyx, pearls and diamonds, which shows the time on an onyx disc set with a half-pearl. Similar in style, Mademoiselle Priv\u00e9 Coromandel conceals the 82 TATLER","www.cindychao.com [email protected]","Unspoiled views of the DIOR Mediterranean from Taormina in Sicily JOAILLERIE Candlelit dinner In 1920, DH Lawrence checked into at the Grand Taormina\u2019s Grand Hotel Timeo \u2013 and Hotel Timeo didn\u2019t check out for four years. Sitting on the terrace, overlooking the sea and the A glamorous lemon orchards, Lawrence wrote Lady getaway Chatterley\u2019s Lover, the erotic masterpiece with Dior that scandalised the world. Joaillerie And it was at this historic location that The 137-piece Dior Joaillerie chose to unveil creative Dior Print director Victoire de Castellane\u2019s dazzling collection new 137-piece Dior Print collection, featured in which recreates the finer details of cou- the couture ture\u2019s finishing touches \u2013 ribbons, checks, runway florals, lace and braiding \u2013 through pre- show cious gemstones and sheer ingenuity. Dinner was set on the terrace, with a view of the ever-smoking Mount Etna, and was followed by a candlelit runway show. Here, the jewellery collection made its debut alongside 40 couture pieces especially designed for the occasion by the maison\u2019s creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri. \u2018I want joy, because I think the world can be so tough,\u2019 said de Castellane after the show \u2013 and her gems gave us exactly that, fusing colour and print motifs, with diamond brooches winking on the lapels of velvet Bar jack- ets and a gem-laden, ribbon-like necklace atop a bustier gown. Taormina to Madrid via Marrakech: Tatler\u2019s \u2018very important\u2019 watches and jewellery editor jets in to the exclusive collection launches By CHARLIE MILLER HIGH JEWELLERY SALES ARE BOOMING, THANKS locations where the patrons have been offered \u2013 ahead of their to VICs (Very Important Clients), the customers who represent official launch \u2013 first refusal on the latest one-of-a-kind creations. one per cent of the world\u2019s population and constitute the engine I joined them on the high-jewellery Grand Tour, making trips of powering the luxury market. So how best to court them? More unbridled glamour that took in the glittering coasts of the than any other year, brands have put bespoke experiences into Mediterranean, love-lit Paris, Spain\u2019s culture-rich capital and overdrive; and at their heart has been travel to glamorous the fabled, pink-tinted city of Marrakech. 84 TATLER","Carla Bruni-Sarkozy BULGARI and Bulgari CEO JBeaabni-nChwriitshtomphoedels From Sicily to Paris, via Dior\u2019s private plane (merci, Dior!) for the launch of BittuEhslmecgoaIbltrlaaieslcdistayeinobinnutaPetadris Bulgari\u2019s Eden, the Garden of Wonders, an ode to nature and all its glories. A private jet to Former French To introduce creative director Lucia France: only the best President Nicolas Silvestri\u2019s ornate, 140-piece collection, Sarkozy with the Roman jeweller chose the sumptuous for the VICs his Bulgari setting of the Italian Embassy, its elegant jewel-bedecked salons bursting with tapestries and wife, Carla engraved mirrors. The A-list audience included such global ambassadors as CARTIER tAhleffroerscmoadlignainrdgeinns Priyanka Chopra, Anne Hathaway, and PhDaolmuakceieooofdfteAhLelbi1ra9iat,h Blackpink\u2019s Lisa. The star of the show The Spanish royal family has long been was the Tribute to Paris necklace \u2013 loyal to Cartier \u2013 starting in 1904, when recently worn by Julianne Moore in King Alfonso XIII gave the maison a Cannes and modelled in the evening\u2019s royal warrant. Fast-forward 118 years, fashion show by Carla Bruni-Sarkozy \u2013 and the jeweller returned the compli- which features emeralds and diamonds ment by choosing the Spanish capital to set to resemble petite Eiffel Towers. (It launch Beaut\u00e9s du Monde, a collection was one of the reasons Bulgari decided to that celebrates beauty across multiple dis- debut this collection in the City of ciplines, from flora and fauna to art and Light.) And then on to the lush gardens architecture. First stop was the former for a lavish, Michelin-starred dinner, and British Embassy, where the team turned an evening of singing and dancing. the neglected Brutalist building into a luxury showcase, presenting new and CChaartrileire bweiltlhbotyhse archive pieces (the latter included the famous 22-inch jewelled snake necklace, Beauty even in crafted in 1968 for Mexican actress the pool at the Maria Felix). Then on to the majestic set- former British ting of the 18th-century Palacio de Liria, Embassy, Madrid home of the 19th Duke of Alba, for the evening gala. We wandered the palace\u2019s grand rooms \u2013 adorned with magnificent works by Titian, Rembrandt and Goya \u2013 before dining al fresco in the formal gardens, entertained first by contempo- rary flamenco dancers and later, as dusk fell, by live performances from the Black Eyed Peas and Rita Ora. ] TATLER","formTlaehrtleeyPPoiawelranrieesdCBbuayrlldtehisne, Everystwhiinmg\u2019ms ginoignlyg! VAN CLEEF PHOTOGRAPHS: ALESSANDRO GAROFALO; ANDREA CENETIEMPO; FRAN\u00c7OIS GOIZ\u00c9\/CARTIER; HEMIS\/ALAMY CnPheaaalarrliCiseBaanutnltlehesse & ARPELS STOCK PHOTO; JON CHICA\/SHUTTERSTOCK; MAICA\/GETTY IMAGES; PHILIPUS\/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO. LOUIS PERSONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: CHARLIE MILLER; MING LIU; RACHEL GARRAHAN VUITTON No doubt the most unconventional and extravagant residence to grace the coast- To Marrakech with Louis Vuitton, the line of the French Riviera is the Palais house with travel and adventure at its Bulles, formerly owned by the late Pierre very core, and the final stop on my Cardin. It appears to have landed from incredible Grand Tour. We started in the outer space with its riot of ochre- Agafay desert \u2013 an arid, moon-like coloured bubble-rooms tumbling down terrain with the Atlas Mountains on the the hillside, their windows overlooking horizon \u2013 where we lunched by the oasis the Mediterranean sea. And it was against pool before an exhilarating quad-bike this backdrop that Van Cleef & Arpels adventure (coming across actress Chloe chose to reveal its new La Perl\u00e9e pieces Moretz in the ensuing dust haze). and debut Perles d\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9, a collection of 12 one-of-a-kind high jewels, showcasing But the new 125-piece Spirit collection both turquoise and the brand\u2019s signature \u2013 brainchild of Francesca Amfitheatrof, golden beads, with flashes of coral, lapis the house\u2019s artistic director for watches lazuli and diamonds. Cocktails in hand, and jewellery \u2013 was presented at a starry we meandered through the spherical dinner with Kylie Minogue and Riley rooms \u2013 past synchronised swimmers Keough, hosted in the lush courtyard of posing in pools \u2013 to the vast open-air the Dar El Bacha museum in the Medina. auditorium, where the models\u2019 jewels Amfitheatrof \u2019s fourth and largest collec- glittered as the sun set. The finale: a tion to date \u2013 inspired by the power of fireworks spectacle over the bay. mythological creatures, their freedom and strength \u2013 teems with incredible gems. hCceoahBnRdataorrtclyioihbcetaeuha-tmGenorDdrueSsTaeeanarurstmEailelhllr There are gobstopper tsavorites, garnets, rubies and custom-cut diamonds galore. Dinner at And boy, were we VICs impressed. ( Dar El Bacha 86 Quad-biking through the Agafay desert TATLER","VERSATILE FINE JEWELLERY AVAILABLE AT ALICEVANCAL.COM & AT SELFRIDGES.COM","AS MONEY TURNS EVER MORE DIGITAL AND WE become wearable within a contemporary jewellery swirl around the planet paying with two-by-three-inch cards, a context,\u2019 comments Christian Hemmerle, the fourth- few clicks on our phones or (the James Bond way) by hovering 1 generation member of the jewellery house that bears a smartwatch over a POS terminal, the sighting of a metal coin has his surname. Hemmerle has been using ancient coins become as rare as a five-carat ruby. So much so that some jewellers for decades, and recently paired a 16th-century gold now think they deserve to be set in bijouterie, just like the coin from the Italian Duchy of Piacenza with a most precious gemstones. 17th-century Prussian silver coin in a pair of In Dolce & Gabbana\u2019s latest high-jewellery collection mismatched earrings in blue and yellow Siracusa 2022 \u2013 an extravagant spectacle of larger-than- aluminium. But upcoming young jewel- life gems \u2013 the centre-stones of choice are rusty, brownish- lers are championing such designs too. greyish coins crafted thousands of years ago. Francesca Ruggiero, the founder of \u2018They are embedded in the jewellery as if they were gems, Kiaia jewellery, says she is fascinated by how dialoguing with colourful precious stones,\u2019 say Domenico the symbolism of ancient Greek and Roman Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. \u2018We like the idea of the contrast coins promotes \u2018love, hope, wealth and peace\u2019, and between the refined bas-reliefs of the portraits on the ancient coins \u2013 confesses her preference for those bearing the likeness of recounting 2,000 years of history \u2013 and our master goldsmiths\u2019 skills in Mark Antony. (\u2018His love story with Cleopatra is legend- evoking the present of the jewellery world.\u2019 ary.\u2019) She explains that Kiaia\u2019s designs are pared down to place at the forefront the beauty of the coins themselves. Thus, a chunky, gaspipe-style necklace, made of alternating rings in Another to have found inspiration in such coins is Dubini, yellow and white gold and blue titanium, interspersed with diamonds which set them in pieces for its 2014 debut collection, and blue sapphires, features suspended at its centre a Greek tetradrachm Empires, while Francesca Villa turned to minuscule Indian portraying the goddess Athena (minted in 449\u2013413 BC). A pair of ear- coins known as fanam to create a series of rings. rings in a similar style, set with two sapphires, match a silver coin from Besides reconnecting us with history, this old money tells the Republican era with one from 134\u2013138 AD \u2013 the former, from personal stories, too. Carolina Bucci custom-made a version of her 42 BC, depicting a member of the Vibius family, the latter bearing the Forte beads necklace, adding a handful of Indian Mughal gold mohur profile of the Emperor Hadrian. coins which had a special meaning for the client who commissioned it. However, instead of scouring vintage markets, both Anissa Kermiche and \u2018As always with our Alta Gioielleria [High Jewellery], we try to reveal Alighieri have created their own coins. the authentic soul of the places in which and for which the jewels are \u2018I wanted to pay homage to the women of the French Revolution and conceived,\u2019 say Dolce & Gabbana\u2019s designers, referring to Siracusa\u2019s past. thought: what better way to show their importance?\u2019 says Kermiche. Using \u2018Real ancient coins emphasise the indissoluble link between creativity, as a reference a 17th-century Louis d\u2019or, Kermiche minted her own coins, beauty and history,\u2019 they say. replacing the portrait of Louis XIII with her imaginary Lady Liberty. As for Alighieri, its bestselling Leone medallion coin carries a rallying It\u2019s a link that goes way back. Coins have been used in jewellery for message, inspired by a passage from Dante\u2019s Divine Comedy in which \u2013 millennia, as proved by the many pierced specimens that survive \u2013 when the narrator almost gives up on his journey at the sight of a lion \u2013 his including the British Museum\u2019s famous Roman gold coin marking the despair suddenly turns into a flicker of courage. \u2018It\u2019s my very personal killing of Julius Caesar in 44 BC. Meanwhile, numismatic pieces from reminder to be brave in moments of self-doubt,\u2019 says Alighieri\u2019s founder, the 19th century by Italian jeweller Castellani are highly sought-after by Rosh Mahtani. collectors, as are Bulgari\u2019s creations, which introduced the style in the The best coins truly belong among the treasures of jewellery. Even if \u2013 1960s. (In 2018, a Bulgari necklace in platinum and diamonds, set with an 1857 United States $1 gold coin \u2013 belonging to the late Barbara for purchases and everything else \u2013 there\u2019s always a card. ( Sinatra \u2013 sold at Sotheby\u2019s for \u00a349,000, three times its estimate.) \u2018Collectors of such creations are drawn to them as collectibles that PRETTIEST 5 PENNIES From ducats to drachmas, medallions to mohurs, the smart money is on ancient coins, set as gemstones, for rarity value embedded in jewellery By MILENA LAZAZZERA 88 TATLER","Jodie Turner-Smith wears a Bulgari Monete necklace at the Venice Film Festival, 2022 2 3 6 4 1 Il Leone Medallion necklace, \u00a3225, 8 13 ALIGHIERI. 2 Louise d\u2019or Coin anklet, 6 12 \u00a31,400, ANISSA KERMICHE. 3 Sapphire, PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES diamond, ancient coin, yellow gold and white 9 10 11 gold earrings, POA, DOLCE & GABBANA 7 ALTA GIOIELLERIA. 4 Sapphire, titanium, 89 diamond, ancient coin, yellow gold and white gold necklace, POA, DOLCE & GABBANA ALTA GIOIELLERIA. 5 Louise d\u2019or collier, \u00a32,100, ANISSA KERMICHE. 6 17th-century antique coin, white gold and aluminium earrings, POA, HEMMERLE. 7 Ruby, rubellite tourmaline, ancient coin, yellow gold and pink gold bracelet, POA, DOLCE & GABBANA ALTA GIOIELLERIA. 8 Louise d'Infinie earrings, \u00a32,675, ANISSA KERMICHE. 9 Alexander the Great signet ring, \u00a32,500, DUBINI. 10 Marc Antonio ring, \u00a37,350, KIAIA LONDON. 11 Diamond, pearl, coral, ancient coin, yellow gold and white gold necklace, POA, DOLCE & GABBANA ALTA GIOIELLERIA. 12 Venetian Ducat choker, \u00a36,100, DUBINI. 13 Arcivescovo ring, \u00a35,830, FRANCESCA VILLA TATLER","Made to treasure: the most dazzling bespoke couture jewels Photographs by LUC BRAQUET Styled by SOPHIE PERA Jewellery Editor CHARLIE MILLER TATLER","Dress (incorporating 91 gloves), \u00a3292, ROOM 24. Veil, stylist\u2019s own. Diamond and white gold earrings; diamond, sapphire and white gold ring; diamond, sapphire and white gold necklace, all POA, DIOR JOAILLERIE Opposite page, coat, \u00a32,400, and catsuit, \u00a33,205, MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION. Brazilian rock crystal, white diamond and white gold necklace with pear-shaped flawless white diamond; Brazilian rock crystal, white diamond and white gold bracelet, both POA, DE BEERS TATLER","Hat and gloves, stylist\u2019s own. Emerald bead, emerald, diamond and white gold earrings and necklace, both POA, GRAFF Opposite page, dress and veil, as before. Hat, stylist\u2019s own. Chrysoprase, tsavorite garnet, green tourmaline, mandarin garnet, emerald, pink sapphire, purple sapphire, diamond, white gold, rose gold and titanium brooch; chrysoprase, tsavorite garnet, mandarin garnet, purple sapphire, emerald, diamond, white gold and titanium ring, both POA, CHAUMET 92 TATLER","TATLER","Diamond and white gold earrings; diamond, ruby, white gold and rose gold transformable necklace, both POA, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Opposite page, dress and gloves, stylist\u2019s own. Tsavorite garnet, ruby, turquoise, diamond and platinum earrings; ruby, tsavorite garnet, turquoise, diamond and platinum ring, both POA, CARTIER 94 TATLER","TATLER 95","Dress, POA, CHANEL. Diamond, yellow diamond, white gold and yellow gold earrings and bracelet, both POA, CHANEL HIGH JEWELLERY Opposite page, hat, stylist\u2019s own. Emerald and diamond earrings, POA, CINDY CHAO THE ART JEWEL For stockists, see Address Book. Hair: Taan Doan at L\u2019Atelier (68). Make-up: L\u00e9a Tom\u00e9. Nails: Marie Rosa. Photographer\u2019s assistant: Theo Guerlet. Styling assistant: Nicol\u00f2 Pablo Venerd\u00ec Bettiol. Model: Loane Normand at Elite. Producer: Camilla Fitz-Patrick 96 TATLER","TATLER 97","The diamond-studded tiara with pearls (centre) is the most important piece of the contested collection locked up in the Bank of Italy Margherita, The Italian crown jewels have been Queen of Italy locked away since 1946, when Italy photographed in voted to abolish the monarchy, but the House of Savoy\u2019s path to reclaim their the 1880s family treasures is littered with hurdles By MILENA LAZAZZERA Princess Maria Gabriella, daughter of the last king of Italy, Umberto II. Left, the official document in which Umberto II entrusts the jewels to the Bank of Italy TATLER","The Tapestry room in the Quirinale Palace in Rome, the former official residence of the royal family Queen Marie-Jos\u00e9\u2019s Prince Emanuele Filiberto Faberg\u00e9 tiara, and his wife Clotilde c1895, a private Courau, 2012 item bequeathed to Princess Maria interpretation, citing a note from Queen Margherita. Upon the Gabriella assassination of her husband by the anarchist Gaetano Bresci on 29 July 1900, she transferred the treasures to Elena of Montenegro Princess Maria Gabriella, Queen \u2013 wife of Umberto I\u2019s heir Vittorio Emanuele III \u2013 writing: Marie Jos\u00e9 and King Umberto II \u2018The Gioie della Corona were delivered to HM Queen Elena, my at the pre-wedding ball of the daughter-in-law, on August 2, 1900, in Monza.\u2019 Prince of Asturias and Princess Sophia of Greece, 1962 Queen Elena was the fifth child of King Nicolas I of Montenegro. In all he had 12, seven of whom married into royal families, gaining PHOTOGRAPHS: ACTION PRESS\/SHUTTERSTOCK; ALPHA PRESS; COURTESY OF STEFANO PAPI; DEAGOSTINI\/GETTY IMAGES; FOUNDATION CROWN JEWELS OF RULING OR FORMER ROYAL him the sobriquet of \u2018Father-in-Law of Europe\u2019. And Elena herself OF HUMBERT II ET MARIE JOS\u00c9 DE SAVOIE; MEHDI FEDOUACH\/AFP, GETTY IMAGES; MONDADORI PORTFOLIO\/BRIDGEMAN IMAGES families are usually displayed with pride and pomp \u2013 but not those was the last to wear the contested jewels. Towards the end of the of the House of Savoy, which provided Italy\u2019s monarchs from 1861 war, as the Germans were looting valuables from Italian banks, the to 1946. They have been kept in a box at the Bank of Italy in Rome, gioie were hidden in a tunnel not far from the Bank of Italy; and at hidden and inaccessible, since the reign of Umberto II came to a the close of hostilities, they were moved to a safe in the Quirinale premature end. Lately, when his daughter Princess Maria Gabriella Palace, the then-official residence of the royal family. asked to see them as part of a research project, she was refused per- mission. Earlier this year, the princess and her siblings \u2013 Vittorio But that did not result in any public appearance for the jewels. Emanuele IV, Maria Pia and Maria Beatrice \u2013 submitted a formal Quite the contrary. The new King Umberto II ruled for only 34 request for their return; and following the Bank\u2019s refusal on the days \u2013 until 12 June 1946, when a referendum determined the end grounds of uncertain ownership, launched legal proceedings to of the monarchy and the exile of the Savoys. On 5 June, before leav- recover them. This is the latest episode in a saga that also saw the ing his homeland, the king consigned the jewels to Luigi Einaudi, jewels being moved through tunnels during the Second World War. then governor of the Bank of Italy, with a cryptic note which read: \u2018Entrusted to the cashier of the Bank of Italy, to be kept at the The collection consists of 14 pieces, including two large diamond disposal of whoever has the right.\u2019 bracelets and a large knot brooch set with a pink diamond (which Queen Margherita wore at the centre of her dress\u2019s d\u00e9collet\u00e9 during So did he agree with his grandmother about their status, or not? the celebration of her silver wedding anniversary to King Umberto I Thereby hangs the Savoys\u2019 current legal case. \u2018These jewels are pri- in 1893). There is also a double-strand chain adorned with knots vate jewels,\u2019 Princess Maria Gabriella now says. \u2018They have never that evoke those on the Savoy coat-of-arms. But the most impor- been donated, nor have they been confiscated.\u2019 Her nephew Prince tant item is a diamond-studded, pearl-decorated tiara. Crafted by Emanuele Filiberto, son of the heir apparent Vittorio Emanuele IV, court jeweller Musy Padre e Figli of Turin \u2013 the Savoys\u2019 hometown echoes her sentiments. \u2018There\u2019s no such thing as the crown jewels of \u2013 it is the only piece to feature pearls, gems which were especially Italy,\u2019 he says. \u2018They were private jewels owned by my family. And dear to Queen Margherita, who was so fond of wearing multiple there has never been a crown of the kings of Italy, either.\u2019 strands that she was nicknamed the \u2018Queen of Pearls\u2019. It\u2019s true that the Savoys never had coronation ceremonies but, as But were they what the British would call \u2018Crown Jewels\u2019? For us, Papi points out, there was a crown available: the Iron Crown \u2013 so the phrase connotes the crowns, sceptres and orbs used in corona- called because it contains an iron nail said to have come from tions \u2013 or at least the regalia worn by monarchs on great occasions. Christ\u2019s cross \u2013 which was made in the 4th or 5th century and is currently displayed in the Cathedral of Monza near Milan. The Savoy hoard, on the other hand, was only ever worn by queen consorts (at state ceremonies). However, these ladies could Matters of ownership may be further complicated by an out- only do so \u2013 or pass them on to succeeding queen consorts \u2013 with standing challenge to the current Italian royal family from Prince the written permission of the king, which suggests that they were Aimone, the Duke of Aosta. Descended from Umberto I\u2019s late symbols of the Italian nation, and the king their steward. The brother Amedeo, he claims leadership of the House of Savoy. distinguished historian Stefano Papi certainly leans towards this Nevertheless, Prince Emanuele Filiberto hopes the pride of the Savoys will soon see the light of day again. \u2018We wish to open the box and, upon their restitution [to us], display the jewels,\u2019 he says. ( TATLER 99","GO WITH THE FLOW From outside, diamond rivi\u00e8re and cross pendant, POA, JESSICA McCORMACK. Diamond and platinum necklace; tsavorite, diamond and platinum necklace, both POA, HARRY WINSTON. Emerald, diamond, jadeite and white gold necklace, POA, BOGHOSSIAN. Diamond necklace, POA, DE BEERS. Rubellite and diamond necklace, POA, TIFFANY & CO. Diamond and rose gold necklace, \u00a315,500, MESSIKA. Victorian diamond rivi\u00e8re, \u00a397,500, HANCOCKS 100 TATLER","A royal favourite, the rivi\u00e8re Fernando Jorge matches diamonds with chalky blue chalcedony necklace\u2013 a shimmering cascade surrounds. And in Geneva, at seasoned family business of gemstones \u2013 is back in vogue. Boghossian, a striking double rivi\u00e8re has been assembled from white diamonds, jadeite links and 28 cushion- and octagonal-cut emeralds from Colombia. \u2018Unlike the traditional design, we chose to separate the gems, so that the size and quality of each Clip one on for instant sparkle could be appreciated,\u2019 explains managing director Roberto Boghossian. \u2018The complexity of creating rivi\u00e8re necklaces comes By Felix Bischof from finding matching stones we can harmoniously set together.\u2019 In Paris, Val\u00e9rie Messika has also authored a new line of rivi\u00e8re necklaces for the family brand, with some noteworthy designs JESSICA MCCORMACK KNOWS DIAMONDS. AFTER combining diamonds with yellow or white gold shapes. \u2018I wear all, it\u2019s for diamonds to wear every day \u2013 and on grand occasions, them close to the neck, and I like to stack them with other longer too \u2013 that many flock to her townhouse on Mayfair\u2019s Carlos Place. pendant necklaces,\u2019 she confides. Meanwhile, at the nearby Place So it makes sense that a standout creation of Oval, the jeweller\u2019s Vend\u00f4me \u2013 Chaumet\u2019s longstanding home \u2013 the rivi\u00e8re has been latest collection, is a pure celebration of diamonds \u2013 52, to be reincarnated as the Escales necklace, featuring a row of 31 precise \u2013 as McCormack once more revisits the rivi\u00e8re, a style of spinels. \u2018The necklace is a modern take on the classic rivi\u00e8re necklace that first rose to prominence in the 18th century. concept,\u2019 says Chaumet chief executive Jean-Marc Mansvelt. Named after the French word for \u2018river\u2019, the rivi\u00e8re creates an \u2018The classic shape has been updated with a row of exceptional iridescent, glistening flow of gems around the neck, much like spinels, in a varying range of sizes and cuts, including oval, round droplets of water. It expresses this inspi- Queen and cushion.\u2019 ration through linked stones, often Elizabeth II The rivi\u00e8re also featured in the high-jewellery collec- arranged by colour, size and cut. in the tions of other houses, all unveiled earlier this year. At \u2018There\u2019s something so balanced and Coronation Tiffany & Co., a double-strand elegant about rivi\u00e8re-style necklaces,\u2019 says Rivi\u00e8re, platinum necklace \u2013 part of the Arabella Hiscox, a jewellery expert at 1953 Manhattan jeweller\u2019s Blue Book Christie\u2019s. \u2018Not only is the repetition and selection of rare treasures \u2013 was graduation of the stones very pleasing to set with 31 cushion-cut rubel- the eye, but they are showstopper pieces, lites, and more than 200 conjuring up associations with royalty.\u2019 baguette-, cushion- and trillion- In June, one caused a stir at the London cut diamonds. A river of gems, PHOTOGRAPHS: CAMERA PRESS\/SNOWDON; CECIL BEATON\/ VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; POPPERFOTO\/GETTY IMAGES auction house. \u2018There was a huge Queen Mary indeed, and part of a flood. For amount of interest,\u2019 remembers Hiscox; wears diamond its Rainforest necklace \u2013 from and the late 19th-century example in rivi\u00e8res, c 1910 the recently launched Majestic question fetched \u00a3126,000 \u2013 more than Escapes collection \u2013 the design five times its estimate. team at Harry Winston con- But back to the future. On Carlos jured images of waterfalls set Place, McCormack worked with oval-cut white diamonds, against a backdrop of lush contrasting the elegant collier with a detachable cross pen- greenery, using a barrelful of diamonds dant. \u2018I\u2019m always trying to make a rivi\u00e8re look cool, and and bright green tsavorites. not too traditional or too dressy,\u2019 McCormack tells me. \u2018I At Harry Winston, a choice of think the key to designing a rivi\u00e8re is to create a necklace classic rivi\u00e8res is also on offer. (Spotted you can easily wear with a T-shirt. That\u2019s normally in the at the London boutique on New back of my mind when I am working on one.\u2019 Bond Street: a line of 103 brilliant-cut You have to wonder how that would have gone down at diamonds set in platinum.) And the many royal courts which favoured fabulous rivi\u00e8res, similarly traditional designs enchant such as the Coronation Rivi\u00e8re, presented in 1937 by King at De Beers. \u2018Rivi\u00e8re diamond neck- George VI to Queen Elizabeth (the late Queen Mother) Princess Margaret wears a rivi\u00e8re laces are the perfect pieces for any and numbering 40 diamonds. Or Queen Mary\u2019s silver- bequeathed by Queen Mary, 1969 jewellery enthusiast to have in their and gold-set collier of 34 old-cut diamonds, which later became collection, because the enduring appeal is guaranteed to last,\u2019 a constant adornment on Princess Margaret. Or the 1858 says CEO Celine Assimon. Coronation necklace commissioned by Queen Victoria, made So how about a rivi\u00e8re with some real history? At the expert up of 28 stones and fitted with an amazing detachable pendant: outlet Hancocks, finds include a Victorian rivi\u00e8re dated to the the Lahore Diamond, no less. The style has also appeared in 1860s and boasting 40 old-mine, cushion-cut diamonds. \u2018There Hollywood movies \u2013 notably in the 1938 classic Holiday, draped is a timelessness and purity to the style, which allows the gem- around the neck of Katharine Hepburn. stones to shine without complex design or an excess of metal,\u2019 says Today, heritage houses and independent names alike have Guy Burton, bespoke director at Hancocks, \u2018And who wouldn\u2019t rediscovered the rivi\u00e8re as a canvas for creativity. In London, want a river of gemstones flowing round their neck?\u2019 ( TATLER 101","3 1 They were the talk of Paris: this year\u2019s showstopping haute-couture creations, fashioned from whopping stones with exquisite artistry By SARAH ROYCE-GREENSILL 2 FOR A FEW DAYS IN JULY, EXCITABLE nature. Its Ondes et Merveilles collection took for Herm\u00e8s. High-jewellery teenagers crowded the cobbles of the Place its starting point from nautically-themed shadows are forged from black Vend\u00f4me, oblivious to the bemused fashion archive creations. So white-diamond waves jade in the du Jour suite, or a editors attempting to elbow past. There were crash rhythmically across the \u00c0 Fleur d\u2019Eau pav\u00e9 of midnight-blue sapphires whispers of a Kardashian at the Ritz: Kim was in parure, which boasts a necklace set with a 7.18- in the Fouet Ombr\u00e9 necklace, town for Paris Haute Couture Week. But even carat pear-shaped diamond, and transformable while cocktail rings are set with rough gems, her star-power paled in comparison to what was brooches that can be worn in the hair. whose uncut forms are shadowed by an ombr\u00e9 on show inside the opulent hotel. Squirrelled of pav\u00e9-set stones. away behind heavily guarded doors in the Salon Colour runs through Chaumet\u2019s offering. C\u00e9sar Ritz were the newest, most spectacular The Com\u00e8tes de Mer suite features multi- It\u2019s 17 years since De Beers first showcased creations from the Parisian maison Cartier. coloured sapphire starfish strung from tangles rough diamonds in its Talisman range, and they of pearls; the Galets d\u2019Or parure sees sunset- continue to enchant. Now, uncut stones sit The 250 pieces of the Beaut\u00e9s du Monde col- hued morganites gleaming atop gold pebbles. alongside brilliant-white and Fancy coloured lection were born out of a simple philosophy \u2013 Tours de force of creativity and skill, the 69 diamonds in the second chapter of its Alchemist celebrating beauty wherever it is found. Making pieces are as wide-ranging as the oceans are vast. of Light collection, which CEO Celine Assimon the old new is at the heart of Cartier\u2019s approach. describes as \u2018the most creatively and technically Perennial themes, such as flora and fauna, archi- Water also flowed throughout Tasaki Atelier\u2019s ambitious we have ever conceived\u2019. Coated tecture and geometry, are filtered through an fifth high-jewellery collection. The Waterfall aluminium and anodised titanium complement abstract, avant-garde lens: a butterfly\u2019s wings parure evokes tremendous power with crashing unusually hued diamonds, rock-crystal is become fragmented crescents of diamonds and columns of pearls and diamonds, their organic scattered with stones, and black aluminium is onyx, interspersed with rubellite beads in the spray contrasting with the neat geometry of the contrasted with yellow and white diamonds to Aporia necklace, and carved coral and emeralds Linkage suite, whose rectangular motifs repre- create illusions with a distinct art-deco feeling. mimic the shapes of a glistening reef in the R\u00e9cif sent the baskets of a freshwater-pearl farm. At In the plush suite at the H\u00f4tel de Crillon that necklace. Fantastical shape and colour combina- Piaget, sapphires and emeralds took centre-stage became its showroom for Haute Couture Week, tions make each creation more exotic than the in symmetrical creations that depict dusk on the De Beers also presented the newest members of last. Yet they\u2019re all wearable: testaments to night of the summer solstice. And Pomellato its Natural Works of Art collection, featuring Cartier\u2019s ability to craft jewels even more beauti- also turned its attention to nature in the third rare white and Fancy coloured diamonds whose ful than the sum of their extraordinary parts. instalment of its La Gioia range, in which journey can be traced from mine to jewel. baroque-shaped Paraiba tourmalines, grey pearls This year, as face-to-face events made a and amber beads represent the light at daybreak De Beers is not alone in making provenance a welcome return, jewellery houses presented and sunset, and during summer storms. major part of its high-jewellery story. Boodles their collections with fanfare across Europe. has partnered with the operators of South Unveiled by invitation-only \u2013 to ultra-high-net- Art jeweller Cindy Chao explored the beauty Africa\u2019s famed Cullinan mine \u2013 source of the worth VIPs and a handful of press \u2013 these pieces of soft shades as well, not least in her latest Black biggest rough diamond ever discovered, the represent the pinnacle of years of planning, Label Masterpiece, the breathtakingly intricate largest cuts of which adorn the Crown Jewels \u2013 stone-sourcing and exceptional craftsmanship. Gentlewoman Ribbon Cuff, whose yellow to offer fully traceable diamonds. Thus, in the diamonds, pink sapphires and garnets create a Peace of Mined collection \u2013 a homage to the late Opposite the Ritz, Chaumet was another symphony of precious pastels. And chiaroscuro Queen\u2019s most celebrated pieces \u2013 rough stones maison to be inspired by the beauty found in is a theme of Pierre Hardy\u2019s seventh collection 102 TATLER","5 6 4 have been purchased directly from the mine by 9 8 7 Boodles, cut and polished in-house, then set 11 into one-of-a-kind jewels. And Graff has long 10 12 benefitted from such \u2018vertical integration\u2019, 13 cherry-picking the biggest and best rough stones 1 Aporia necklace, CARTIER. 2 Diamond direct from the mines, then cutting and polish- necklace with 109.35-carat Sri Lankan 14 ing them to set in such sensational suites as sapphire, GRAFF. 3 Midday Gold those of the Graffabulous collection. Princess The Rapper Menta necklace, 103 POMELLATO. 4 Tourmaline, topaz and Van Cleef & Arpels also put provenance front diamond earrings, GUCCI. 5 R\u00e9cif and centre in Legends of Diamonds \u2013 featuring necklace, CARTIER. 6 Pink Star sapphire 67 principal diamonds cut and polished from and enamel brooch, TIFFANY & CO. the Lesotho Legend, a 910-carat D-colour 7 Iwana necklace, CARTIER. 8 Dior Print rough. The dazzling stones sit beside rubies, necklace, DIOR JOAILLERIE. 9 Electra emeralds and sapphires arranged in the house\u2019s ring, DAVID MORRIS. 10 Laguna ring, signature mystery setting. Rubies form a velvety BUCCELLATI. 11 Africa brooch, red ribbon in the Volutes Myst\u00e9rieuses necklace, MIKIMOTO. 12 Tetris cuff, DAVID freshly tied beneath a 30-carat diamond; and a MORRIS. 13 Galets d\u2019Or ring, chequerboard of mystery-set sapphires and CHAUMET. 14 Optical Wonder Pink emeralds makes a graphic backdrop to the ring, DE BEERS. All POA Chevron Myst\u00e9rieux set. Alongside this celebra- tion of craft are 82 all-diamond designs that act as a history lesson: from Renaissance lace ruffs, through art-deco designs informed by the Chrysler building, to the voluminous glamour of the Fifties and Sixties. Looking to the past, too, Chanel paid tribute to its first-ever high-jewellery collection, created in 1932 by Mademoiselle Gabrielle, who famously declared that she wanted to \u2018cover women in constellations\u2019. Ninety years later, the house has revived this ambition in 77 pieces dedicated to the sun, moon and comets. Yellow gold brings warmth to the Soleil chapter, with diamonds emanating like sun rays; sparkling crescent moons are strung with tanzanites or yellow diamonds; comets trail diamonds ] TATLER","21 22 23 15 17 16 [and sapphires around the d\u00e9colle- brooches to the bold bibs of the 1980s, 19 tage, or shoot across the knuckles on forgotten treasures made available to 18 double-finger rings. Asymmetry and trans- collectors for the first time. 20 formability abound: motifs can be worn on A different type of archive found favour at necklaces, mounted on rings or pinned as Dior, where Victoire de Castellane was inspired 104 brooches, while central stones can be removed by fabrics used by the maison, which acted as and interchanged. The most spectacular piece, the springboard for Dior Print, 137 pieces dedi- the Allure C\u00e9leste necklace, not only features all cated to couture. The creative director set her three central emblems \u2013 a 55.55-carat sapphire craftspeople the task of recreating classic prints at the centre of a crescent moon, an 8.05-carat in gold and gemstones. Stripes, checks, tie-dye pear-shaped diamond bordered by sun rays, and and Liberty-print florals appear in such show- a diamond-encrusted shooting star \u2013 but can stopping jewels as a necklace formed of a tangle also be disassembled into seven elements. It\u2019s of precious ribbons, as though spilling from a high-jewellery versatility at its zenith; no won- dressmaker\u2019s case. The house borrowed watch- der it was snapped up before it went on display. making techniques to miniaturise motifs and make solid metal seem as supple as silk, in Another to revisit old glories is David Morris, accordance with de Castellane\u2019s stipulation that, producing six unique creations that celebrate as \u2018when ribbons undulate, the print must follow\u2019. many decades in the jewellery business. The In Dolce & Gabbana\u2019s Alta Gioielleria range, architectural Tetris cuff is inspired by Brutalist unashamedly extravagant jewels include a neck- architecture of the 1960s, while the Paraiba lace of solid-gold roses, diamond-encrusted tourmaline Electra cocktail ring represents the sunglasses, and a 100.10-carat yellow diamond glamour of the 1980s. Meanwhile, Tiffany\u2019s lat- for good measure. At Harry Winston, the years est Blue Book Botanica collection revisited its of frustrated wanderlust were translated into the heritage botanical designs, including enamelled eight suites of Majestic Escapes, which pay poppies and tulips, and Jean Schlumberger\u2019s homage to such locations as the Grand Canyon, iconic pineapple and parrot. Buccellati eschewed Santorini and St Barths. Turquoise, rubellite a new collection altogether, instead releasing and tourmaline appear alongside diamonds, one-of-a-kind vintage pieces: from 1940s floral TATLER","25 26 27 24 28 pearls, sapphires and emeralds in a bejew- 32 30 elled feast. Mikimoto clocked up air miles 29 too, with the Wild and Wonderful collec- tion, dedicated to the native wildlife of five 15 & 26 1932 earrings and continents \u2013 from zebras and flamingos to necklace, CHANEL HIGH pandas, peacocks and penguins. JEWELLERY. 16 Waterfall necklace, TASAKI ATELIER. But why not travel through time, as well as 17 Parrot Sabre brooch, TIFFANY space? Val\u00e9rie Messika sought inspiration from & CO. SCHLUMBERGER. 18 Sweet ancient Egypt for her Beyond the Light collect- Orange Dream ring, POMELLATO. ion for Messika, where solid gold is almost as 19 Peace of Mined ring, BOODLES. exalted as the diamonds for which she is famous. 20 Com\u00e8te des Mers ring, CHAUMET. A pear-cut diamond hangs from a concave gold 21 Bougainvillea necklace, HARRY collar in the Golden Shield suite, reminiscent of WINSTON. 22 Optical Wonder necklace, pharaonic adornments, while winged scarabs DE BEERS. 23 Chevron Myst\u00e9rieux and the Eye of Horus appear alongside geomet- necklace, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS. ric diamonds in a contemporary interpretation 24 Sicilia necklace, DOLCE & GABBANA. of sacred symbolic jewels. Also taking the 25 Parezza Parure earrings, BUCCELLATI. Tardis, for Gucci\u2019s third high-jewellery collec- 27 Divine Enigma choker, MESSIKA. tion Alessandro Michele looked back to the era 28 Fouet Ombr\u00e9 necklace, HERM\u00c8S. of the Grand Tour, when aristocratic Europeans 29 Gentlewoman Ribbon cuff, CINDY would amass souvenirs from their far-flung CHAO THE ART JEWEL. 30 Dior adventures. His is a cabinet of curiosities that 31 print earrings, DIOR JOAILLERIE. includes maharaja-worthy hexagonal emeralds, 31 \u00c0 Fleur d\u2019Eau necklace, CHAUMET. natural pearls and psychedelic stones, set in 32 Flamboyant Nightfall ring, PIAGET. fantastical cuffs, collars and chandeliers. All POA What a season \u2013 enough to make the most 105 experienced high-jewellery connoisseur as giddy as a star-struck teenager. ( TATLER","STOR E Timeless prints from the world\u2019s most iconic artists condenaststore.com","Get Model Fran\u00e7oise 2 stoned Rubartelli wears a blue-beaded 107 Magic, intoxicating, otherwordly: Sheldena necklace semi-precious rocks add pizzazz in Vogue, 1968 By FELIX BISCHOF 1 EMERALDS, WHITE TOPAZ, DIAMONDS AND PEARLS. 3 At Pomellato\u2019s atelier in Milan, all four have long been mastered by creative director Vincenzo Castaldo and his team of 4 100 artisans. But one hardstone recently presented them with a welcome change \u2013 and a test. To mark Pomellato funding the restoration of the Epistle Ambo pulpit in Saint Mark\u2019s Basilica, Venice \u2013 a project undertaken by the non-profit organisation Venetian Heritage \u2013 the brand decided to create two new versions of its emblematic Iconica rings. Forged from rose gold, both rings are now set with either the red or green version of a stone that, during Byzantium\u2019s imperial era, could only be worn by emperors: porphyry, the same regally-favoured marble from which the pulpit itself was chiselled. \u2018It was challenging and exciting,\u2019 Castaldo recalls. \u2018It always is, when we use materials rarely found in jewellery. The colour and the symbolic meaning of porphyry made it intriguing to work with \u2013 and it was especially challenging when it came to cutting the stone into our Iconica shapes, soft and round.\u2019 Possessed of an architectural beauty, the porphyry rings \u2013 each topped with either a garnet or a green tourmaline \u2013 are just two Pomellato designs in ornamental hardstone that Castaldo has realised in recent months. The brand\u2019s sought-after Ritratto rings have previously incorporated dendritic agate, a type of chalcedony with an otherworldly pattern that looks much like tendrils of green moss; now they also feature lapis lazuli. And unveiled as part of this year\u2019s La Gioia collection of high jewellery, its Velvet Tie necklace \u2013 a tactile gold mesh chain \u2013 is tipped with a duo of jet pendants, each dotted with diamonds and red garnet cabochons. \u2018For Pomellato, jet is a magic ingredient,\u2019 Castaldo continues. \u2018I love jet because it is a material that can be one thing and then its opposite. Sensual and austere, strong and soft. It\u2019s timeless.\u2019 Others have also turned to ornamental hardstones to add vibrant and unexpected flashes of colour to jewellery. In London, for example, Brazilian creative Lily Gabriella Elia recently combined hand-carved aventurine with a Madagascan sapphire for her brand Lily Gabriella; and she claims to choose stones much as an artist might select their pigments. \u2018I have a passion for colour and like to convey this in my jewellery,\u2019 she says. \u2018I like to think that jewels and hardstones are my painting materials and the larger the ] TATLER","7 5 6 98 Elizabeth Taylor wears her Piaget watch (pictured right) [variety I work with, with Richard Burton off the the more I can express coast of Sardinia in 1967 my ideas.\u2019 Equally ravishing are Piaget\u2019s contemporary takes on its Variety is indeed central to the signature timepieces: presented this year, a new Piaget Limelight attraction of hardstones. \u2018I think they Gala balances a white gold case and Milanese mesh strap with a have become popular again because each deep blue aventurine dial. But the brand has stiff competition. stone is so unique,\u2019 says Joanna Hardy, a jewellery spe- Slices of opal feature in a couple of new rose gold Divas\u2019 Dream cialist who also acts as an expert curator for secondary marketplace watches by the Roman jeweller Bulgari. And at Dior, Victoire de Omn\u0113que. \u2018It means each piece of jewellery will look slightly dif- Castellane has enriched her line of Gem Dior timepieces with new ferent and speak personally to the wearer.\u2019 And Jean-Bernard Forot models: one matches cognac-hued tiger\u2019s eye with yellow gold; shares Hardy\u2019s sentiment. Says Piaget\u2019s head of patrimony: \u2018Even if another mixes ballet-slipper pink aragonite with flashes of red you have two slices of malachite next to each other, they are never carnelian and tiger\u2019s eye against pink gold. the same. Every stone is unique.\u2019 It\u2019s a trend across fine and high jewellery this year. Lapis, carnel- Since the early 1960s, working with malachite and other ian and onyx all make an appearance in the Hawaii collection of colourful, ornamental hardstones has been a forte at Piaget. After fine jewellery by Buccellati. And at Tasaki, semi-precious, brightly introducing its ultra-thin wristwatches in 1957, the heritage brand coloured stones are among the ingredients of the recently unveiled, became caught up in watchmaking\u2019s contemporary taste for latest Atelier high-jewellery line. \u2018I took inspiration from the allure innovation, and first produced timepieces set with hardstones in and power of the sky,\u2019 explains Tasaki\u2019s creative director Prabal 1963. Where previously colour had been added to dials by Gurung. \u2018To bring the concept to life, we had to explore colour enamelling or hand-painting, Piaget succeeded with slim slices of through new and alternative stones, such as turquoises, opals and stones. \u2018The company was really part of the creative spirit of the chalcedonies, all of which complement the pearls and other pre- 1960s,\u2019 says Forot. \u2018The decade saw the arrival of colour cious stones in the collection.\u2019 Gurung also worked with landmark everywhere, from architecture to home design and fashion.\u2019 turquoises secured from the Sleeping Beauty mine in Arizona, which has since shut down. \u2018Tasaki bought these a long time ago, Fine art, too, became drenched in vibrant hues: Andy Warhol before the mine closed. We were waiting for the right piece to set was among Piaget\u2019s list of high-society clients \u2013 as were his them in, and it is my pleasure to have been able to use them.\u2019 subjects, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor and Jackie Kennedy. On the latter\u2019s 1967 yellow gold watch, diamonds and emeralds were Gurung unveiled his unique Tasaki designs in July with a set to frame a leaf-green jade dial with a cloud-like pattern. \u2018A trend presentation at the Ritz in Paris. The same month, during the for colour was in the air, but nobody had captured it in that way French capital\u2019s haute couture week \u2013 and just across the Place before,\u2019 says Forot. \u2018It was a rush of success for the brand.\u2019 Vend\u00f4me \u2013 French heritage house Chaumet unveiled new crea- tions starring hardstones as well. Chasse aux tr\u00e9sors (\u2018treasure hunt\u2019) is the name of its new Ondes et Merveilles high-jewellery 108 TATLER","1 & 5 Chasse aux Tr\u00e9sors 13 earrings; Encres brooch, 10 both POA, CHAUMET. 2 Perles d\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 Brume de 16 turquoise necklace, POA, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS. 15 3 & 4 Radiant earrings and ring, both POA, TASAKI 11 ATELIER. 6 & 13 Beaut\u00e9s du Monde necklace in opals; Beaut\u00e9s du Monde necklace in lapis lazuli, both POA, CARTIER. 7 & 10 Limelight Gala Aventurine watch, \u00a342,000; Elizabeth Taylor\u2019s 1967 watch (archive), both PIAGET. 8 & 15 Gem Dior timepiece in tiger\u2019s eye; Gem Dior timepiece in decorative stones, both POA, DIOR JOAILLERIE. 9, 11 & 12 Discoveries in the Darkness Velvet Tie Chain in jet; Iconica Venezia ring in red porphyry; Iconica Venezia ring in green porphyry, all POA, POMELLATO. 14 Divas\u2019 Dream watch, \u00a362,000, BULGARI. 16 Hawaii Color bracelet, POA, BUCCELLATI 12 14 PHOTOGRAPHS: GIANNI PENATI; EXPRESS\/HULTON ARCHIVE\/GETTY IMAGES sets, which see cuts of green chrysoprase arranged to resemble Marisa Berenson wears underwater coral. \u2018Maison Chaumet has always used hardstones a necklace of stones set in its collections,\u2019 says the brand\u2019s CEO Jean-Marc Mansvelt, in gold in Vogue, 1969 \u2018particularly during the art deco years and the 1970s.\u2019 Such decades-deep expertise also influenced creatives elsewhere on the Place Vend\u00f4me. At Cartier, a new high-jewellery necklace follows the organic shape of a snake, and combines a quintet of rare Ceylon sapphires with white diamonds and accents of lapis lazuli. \u2018There is an element of recognition, and expression of the Cartier style, in mixing all the different stones,\u2019 explains Pierre Rainero, image, style and heritage director at the brand. \u2018The use of hardstones within our creations continues to evolve and is a natural journey for us in terms of creative inspiration.\u2019 Meanwhile, at Van Cleef & Arpels, president and CEO Nicolas Bos references the 1960s and \u201970s as the last time there was a real trend for these gems. \u2018During that period, the colourful aesthetic of ornamental stones instilled a sense of joy and playfulness in the creations,\u2019 he says. \u2018They were often combined to give rise to bright harmonies, offering a different dimension to high jewellery and blurring the boundaries between daytime and evening elegance.\u2019 Cue Van Cleef & Arpels\u2019 new selection of Perl\u00e9e couleurs creations \u2013 pendant necklaces, rings and bracelets \u2013 which pair yellow gold with malachite, onyx and carnelian. \u2018Today, for Perl\u00e9e, ornamental stones such as turquoise, carnelian and lapis lazuli bring about warm and summer-like hues,\u2019 Bos continues. \u2018With all their colours and beaded contours, the pieces perfectly express the collection\u2019s joyful spirit.\u2019 It\u2019s a relaxed approach to precious gems, one that homes in on the pleasure that wearing jewellery can bestow. And surely the same feeling has led to the renewed embrace of ornamental hardstones. ( TATLER 109","The FLORAL Fragrance Family","ADDRESS BOOK PHOTOGRAPH: LUC BRAQUET 886 by The Royal Mint Gucci gucci.com FROM EAR Theo Fennell Copyright 2022 TATLER PUBLISHING COMPANY LTD, Vogue 886.royalmint.com Harry Winston TO ETERNITY theofennell.com House, 1 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU (tel: 020 7499 Alighieri alighieri.com harrywinston.com Be radiant in bespoke Tiffany & Co. tiffany.co.uk 9080). Printed in the UK by Wyndeham Roche Ltd. All rights Alison Lou alisonlou.com Hancocks couture jewels, page 90 Tudor tudorwatch.com reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written Angie Marei hancocks-london.com Tyler Ellis tylerellis.com permission is strictly prohibited. Not to be sold separately from the mareinewyork.com Hemmerle hemmerle.com Sophie Bille Brahe Ulysse Nardin December 2022 issue of Tatler. Tatler has tried to ensure that all Anissa Kermiche Herm\u00e8s hermes.com sophiebillebrahe.com ulysse-nardin.com information is correct at the time of going to press, but the anissakermiche.com Hirsh hirshlondon.com Sophie Keegan Valentino valentino.com publishers cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions. Anita Ko anitako.com Hotlips by Solange sophiekeegan.com Vacheron Constantin Annoushka annoushka.com hotlipsbysolange.co.uk Stephen Webster vacheron-constantin.com 111 Asprey asprey.com Hublot hublot.com stephenwebster.com Van Cleef & Arpels Assael assael.com Jaeger-LeCoultre Stone and Strand vancleefarpels.com Audemars Piguet jaeger-lecoultre.com net-a-porter.com Vanleles vanleles.com audemarspiguet.com Jemma Wynne Swarovski Versace versace.com Bamford bamfordlondon.com jemmawynne.com swarovski.com Wartski wartski.com Bea Bongiasca Jessica McCormack Swatch swatch.com Yvonne L\u00e9on net-a-porter.com jessicamccormack.com Sydney Evan yvonneleon.com Bell & Ross bellross.com Jimmy Choo jimmychoo.com sydneyevan.com Bibi van der Velden Jupiter matchesfashion.com TAG Heuer tagheuer.com bibivandervelden.com Kiaia London kiaia.com Tasaki tasaki.co.uk Blancpain blancplain.com Kiki McDonough kiki.co.uk Thelma West Boghossian Konstantin Chaykin thelmawest.com boghossianjewels.com chaykin.ru Boochier boochier.com Larkspur & Hawk Boodles boodles.com larkspurandhawk.com Bovet bovet.com Lauren Rubinski Boucheron boucheron.com matchesfashion.com Breguet breguet.com Lito Fine Jewelry Bremont bremont.com litofinejewelry.com Breitling breitling.com Liv Luttrell livluttrell.com Brioni brioni.com Longines longines.com Buccellati buccellati.com Lorraine Schwartz Bulgari bulgari.com net-a-porter.com Carolina Herrera Louis Vuitton carolinaherrera.com uk.louisvuitton.com Cartier cartier.com Lydia Courteille Cece Jewellery lydiacourteille.com cecejewellery.com Marlo Laz marlolaz.com Chanel chanel.com Mappin & Webb Chaumet chaumet.com mappinandwebb.com Chopard chopard.com Matturi matturi.com Cicada cicadajewelry.com Melanie Georgacopoulos Cindy Chao the Art Jewel melaniegeorgacopoulos.com cindychao.com Melissa Kaye Cleopatra\u2019s Bling net-a-porter.com cleopatrasbling.com Messika messika.com David Morris Michael Kors Collection davidmorris.com michaelkors.co.uk David M Robinson Mikimoto mikimoto.co.uk davidmrobinson.co.uk Moussaieff De Beers debeers.co.uk moussaieff-jewellers.com Dinakamal dinakamal.com Nadine Ghosn Dior Joaillerie dior.com nadineghosn.com Dolce & Gabbana Nevernot nevernot.co.uk dolcegabbana.com Nikos Koulis nikoskoulis.com Dubini dubini.co.uk No 21 numeroventuno.com E\u00e9ra net-a-porter.com Noa harrods.com Emily-London Headwear NOMOS Glash\u00fctte emily-london.com nomos-glashuette.com Emilia Wickstead Oktaaf oktaaf.com emiliawickstead.com Omega omegawatches.com Emily P Wheeler Oris oris.ch emilypwheeler.com Patek Philippe patek.com Ermanno Scervino Paula Rowan eu.ermannoscervino.com paularowan.com Etro etro.com Piaget en.piaget.com Fendi fendi.com Pragnell pragnell.co.uk Fernando Jorge Pomellato pomellato.com fernandojorge.co.uk Pushkin Antiques Fope fope.com pushkinantiques.com Foundrae foundrae.com Ralph Lauren Collection Francesca Villa ralphlauren.co.uk francescavilla.it Robinson Pelham Fry Powers robinsonpelham.com matchesfashion.com Room 24 room24.co.uk G Collins & Sons Rolex rolex.com gcollinsandsons.com Rosa de la Cruz Garrard garrard.com matchesfashion.com Georg Jensen Roxanne First georgjensen.com roxannefirst.com Girard-Perregaux Richard Mille girard-perregaux.com richardmille.com Glenn Spiro glennspiro.com Santi Graff graff.com santijewels.com Silvia Furmanovich Grand Seiko silviafurmanovich.com grand-seiko.com Solange Azagury-Partridge G-Shock g-shock.co.uk solange.co.uk TATLER","Tatler gems APRIL 1953 A national treasure The late monarch\u2019s dazzling Diamond Diadem was the most recognised of her official jewels PHOTOGRAPH: ILLUSTRATED LONDON NEWS LTD\/MARY EVANS With this year\u2019s guide remembering Queen Elizabeth II as the ultimate Ever since 1830, when William IV\u2019s wife Queen Adelaide wore it, the jewellery muse, we look back to April 1953, when the 27th birthday diadem has graced the heads of queens and royal consorts at coronations portrait of the then-Princess Elizabeth graced the cover of The Tatler. \u2013 as it did at Queen Victoria\u2019s (she replaced some original jewels with pieces Wearing the Star of the Garter and Blue Ribbon over a tulle gown, her from her collection) and Queen Elizabeth\u2019s when she was crowned in June future majesty completed her birthday look with a historic heirloom: the 1953. The Queen wore the piece to every State Opening of Parliament Diamond Diadem. Originally made as a crown for King George IV in she attended, and for official paintings too: the diadem sparkled in 2000, 1820 by Rundell & Bridge, the showstopping piece is set with 169 pearls when the monarch sat for Lucian Freud in St James\u2019s Palace. But it hasn\u2019t and 1,333 diamonds (including a gleaming four-carat pale-yellow brilliant just adorned royal heads \u2013 when Freud needed to capture its glittering diamond at the centre), many devoted to sprays of roses, shamrocks and details, a model doubled for the monarch and wore the fabled diadem. thistles, the national flowers of England, Ireland and Scotland respectively. Now it shines on, like the Queen\u2019s memory. ELIZ AKDENIZ"]