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CONTENTS ISSUE 108, DECEMBER 2022 72 116 144 BEST OF TENNESSEE I STANBUL THE WORLD Discover ancient crafts Turkey’s centuries-old We round up 35 of and theatrical resorts on coffee culture is being the most exciting a road trip through the reimagined for the destinations for 2023 Great Smoky Mountains modern day 104 130 156 ZAMBIA GUATEM AL A HANOI Conservation triumphs Meet the creative Tradition and and new luxury camps communities of Maya modernity collide to shine a light on the Lower potters and weavers on beguiling effect in the Zambezi National Park the shores of Lake Atitlán Vietnamese capital IMAGE: AWL IMAGES 72 BEST OF THE WORLD DECEMBER 2022 9

CONTENTS Smart traveller 19 | SNAPSHOT Seeing eye to eye 34 | INSIDE GUIDE What to do in San 56 with an Indonesian swimmer Jose, the heart of the Silicon Valley 20 | BIG PICTURE A rare frog frenzy 37 | STAY AT HOME Artist studios in Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula and nature trails in Dungeness 23 | STAR STRUCK Food highlights 39 | BOOKS A new title traces the from Toronto’s first Michelin guide trips that inspired great authors 25 | TUNE IN The new exhibitions 40 | KIT LIST Our pick of the best marking 100 years of the BBC gear to go hiking in this winter 27 | FOOD Author Irina Georgescu 43 | COMPETITION Win a three- on the heritage of Romanian dishes night luxury stay on Turkey’s coast 29 | ON THE TRAIL A coastal drive 45 | NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR around Ireland’s Connemara region Will Ashon on Staten Island 31 | WHERE TO STAY Four historic 46 | MEET THE ADVENTURER hotels in the heart of Marseille Photographer Sebastião Salgado 32 | FAMILY A getaway with teens 48 | ONLINE Highlights from to Shrewsbury nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel 31 50 62 On the cover Insider Travel talk Get involved IMAGES: ALAMY; ALEXANDER BAXTER; GETTY; NIKOLAS KOENIG Watching the sunrise at 50 | WEEKENDER: ZARAGOZA 176 | ASK THE EXPERTS Your travel 182 | SUBSCRIPTIONS Check out our Mesa Arch, Canyonlands Uncover the history of Aragón’s questions answered great Christmas offer National Park, Utah, USA. capital in Spain’s wild north east 178 | THE INFO The latest about 193 | INBOX Let us know what Image: Getty 56 | EAT: ARGYLL In this coastal the unlikely return of passenger you think of the magazine for the region in the Western Highlands, airships to our skies chance to win a prize each month land and sea meet on the plate 179 | HOT TOPIC Is the end near for 194 | HOW I GOT THE SHOT 62 | SLEEP: REYKJAVÍK Be it a sleek New York’s horse-drawn carriages? Contributing photographer Renato stay or a pared-back hostel, the 186 | HOUSE SWAPPING Here’s how Granieri takes us behind the Icelandic capital’s hotel scene takes to exchange homes for a trip — and scenes of his trip to the dramatic inspiration from the natural world why it’s so appealing Himalayan country of Bhutan I NATIONAL GEOGR APHIC TR AVELLER I S THE UK’S #1 TR AVEL M AGA ZINE BY SUB SC RIPTION S 10 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

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CONTRIBUTORS Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Head of Events: Sabera Sattar Editor: Pat Riddell Marketing Manager — Events: Charlotte Wigram-Evans Deputy Editor: Amelia Duggan Angelique Mannan Commissioning Editor: Production Manager: Daniel Gregory In Hanoi, tradition thrives. Nothing illustrates Connor McGovern Production Controller: this better than its food, from girls giggling Senior Editor: Sarah Barrell Joe Mendonca over sticky rice to students slurping pho bowls Assistant Editor: Angela Locatelli from hole-in-the-wall eateries. But you’ll also Executive Editor: Glen Mutel Commercial Director: meet chefs keen to mix it up, blending old Associate Editor: Nicola Trup Matthew Midworth recipes with new techniques. H A N O I P.1 5 6 Digital Editor: Josephine Price Head of Sales: Phil Castle Head of Campaigns: William Allen Stephen Phelan Art Director: Becky Redman Campaigns Team: Jamie Barnish, Art Editors: Lauren Atkinson-Smith James Bendien, Bob Jalaf, As a Goya fan, I wanted to see some of the (maternity leave), Lauren Gamp Kevin Killen, Gabriela Milkova, painter’s best work in his hometown of Senior Designers: Dean Reynolds, Mark Salmon, Oscar Williams Zaragoza. The city turned out to have its own Kelly McKenna Head of National Geographic magnetism — a present-tense place to feast Designers: Jo Dovey, Rosie Klein Traveller — The Collection: on Aragónese culture, pleasantly haunted by Maggie Middlewood Danny Pegg 2,000 years of history. W E E K E N D E R P. 5 0 Picture Editor: Olly Puglisi Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens Audrey Gillan Branded Content Manager: Managing Director: Flora Neighbour Matthew Jackson As a Glasgow Girl, I grew up within shouting Project Editors: Becci Knowles, Sales Director: Alex Vignali distance of Argyll. Yet, it wasn’t until later in Farida Zeynalova, Jo Fletcher- life that I appreciated its beauty and bounty Cross, Megan Hughes, Sara-Jane Head of Commercial Strategy: — there’s incredible food available across the Armstrong, Zane Henry Chris Debbinney-Wright region, if you know where to find it. Now, Project Assistant: APL Business Development Team: I return time and time again. A RGY LL P. 5 6 Sacha Scoging Adam Fox, Cynthia Lawrence Editorial Admin Assistant: Zoey Goto Tabitha Grainge Office Manager: Hayley Rabin Head of Sub Editors: I’ve been visiting Tennessee for half my life, Hannah Doherty (maternity leave) Head of Finance: Ryan McShaw but despite being a couple of hours from Acting Head of Sub Editors: Credit Manager: Craig Chappell Nashville, the Smokies remain a hidden gem. Olivia McLearon Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover It’s got a stunning national park, theme park Sub Editors: Ben Murray, Billings Manager: and artistic heritage — all the ingredients for Chris Horton, Nick Mee Ramona McShaw a great southern road trip. TE N N E S S E E P.1 1 6 Intern: Matthew Figg Connor McGovern Operations Manager: Seamus McDermott Exploring the Turkish metropolis through Digital Marketing Manager: coffee was fascinating. This is far more than Prabhjot Chadha just a caffeine fix — coffee is a cultural icon, wrapped up in stories, traditions and national National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited, pride. It’s a drink that’s every bit as rich and Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL complex as the city it fuels. I STA N B U L P.1 4 4 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. [email protected] 12 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL Photography T: 020 7253 9906. [email protected] Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. [email protected] Subscriptions T: 01858 438787. [email protected] National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from National Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo.com/info. Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2022 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers. National Geographic Partners International Publishing Editor-in-Chief, NG Media: Senior Vice President: Yulia P. Boyle Nathan Lump Senior Director: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr General Manager, NG Media: Senior Manager: Rossana Stella David Miller Headquarters International Editions 1145 17th St. NW, Washington, DC Editorial Director: 20036-4688, USA Amy Kolczak Deputy Editorial Director: National Geographic Partners Darren Smith returns 27% of its proceeds to the Editor: Leigh Mitnick nonprofit National Geographic Translation Manager: Society to fund work in the areas of Beata Nas science, exploration, conservation and education. Editors: CHINA Sophie Huang; GERMANY Werner Siefer; GREECE Kyriakos Emmanouilidis; INDIA Lakshmi Sankaran; ITALY Marco Cattaneo; LATIN AMERICA Roberto Moran; NETHERLANDS Robbert Vermue; POLAND Agnieszka Franus; RUSSIA Ivan Vasin; SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon Lim; SPAIN Josan Ruiz; TURKEY Zeynep Sipahi Copyright © 2022 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National Geographic Traveller and the Yellow Border Design are registered trademarks of National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.

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Editor’s letter DON’T MISS ISSUE 108, DECEMBER 2022 Despite the turbulence of recent years, and the current economic situation, the Photography competition world continues to turn, and tourism initiatives continue to develop, regardless of everything going on around us. Calling all travel photographers: submit images in up to six categories and be in the Compiled by National Geographic Traveller editors across the globe, the running to win a week-long trip to Jordan annual Best of the World list reflects the travel landscape as we see it for the 12 — as well as for the chance to see your work months ahead. With options on your doorstep, a short hop across to Europe or in National Geographic Traveller (UK). P.16 much further afield, this year’s 35 destinations offer insight into a vast array of experiences available for visitors from far and wide. Monthly competition But rather than simply being a list to tick off, it’s a closer look at cultural We’ve teamed up with five-star retreat reawakenings, conservation initiatives and Indigenous programmes focused on Susona Bodrum to offer a three-night stay improving, preserving and developing destinations for the benefit of local people for two on Turkey’s scenic Turquoise Coast, and wildlife, as much as travellers. And, in many cases, the money that tourism complete with a complimentary dinner at brings continues to benefit the parts of the world that need it the most. the onsite Malva restaurant and bar. P. 4 3 The key ethos of National Geographic Traveller — sustainable, authentic travel S U B SC RIB E TODAY — has always been at the heart of everything we do. But that lens has shifted over the years and come to mean different things — travel is a luxury the world can’t live without, but it’s a luxury we now have to think very carefully about. From a UNESCO visitor centre in Bath and the role citizen science is playing in conservation in Tanzania to the reopened Trans-Bhutan Trail connecting communities across the Himalayan country, Best of the World highlights some of the most exciting and exceptional experiences around the planet in 2023. Pat Riddell, editor NATGEOTR AVELUK AWARD -WINNING NATIONAL GEOGR APHIC TR AVELLER Get three issues for just £5! subscriptions.natgeotraveller.co.uk Best US Travel Destination Article — 2022 IPW Travel Writer Awards • Travel Content Award (Gold): VisitEngland Awards for Excellence 2022 • AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year 2021 • LATA Media Awards or call 01858 438787 2020: Online Consumer Feature of the Year Award • Travel Media Awards 2020: Consumer Writer of the Year and quote ‘NGT5’ • British Travel Awards 2019: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • BGTW Awards 2019: Best Travel Writer • Travel Media Awards 2019: Young Writer of the Year • Travel Media Awards 2019: Specialist Travel Writer of the Year • AITO Travel Writer of the Year 2019 • AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year 2019 • BGTW Awards 2018: Best Travel Writer • Travel Media Awards 2018: Consumer Writer of the Year • BSME Talent Awards 2018: Best Designer • British Travel Awards 2017: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • BGTW Awards 2017: Best Travel Writer • BGTW Awards 2016: Best Travel Writer • British Travel Awards 2015: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine G O O N LI N E VI S IT N ATI O N A LG E O G R A PH I C .C O.U K / TR AV E L FO R N E W TR AVEL FE AT U RE S DAI LY IMAGE: GETTY 14 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

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PHOTOGRAPHY IMAGES: JONATHAN DOYLE; GETTY COMPETITION 2023 Among the most coveted travel photography prizes in the country, the National Geographic Traveller Photography Competition is calling for final entries. Judged by a panel of industry- leading photographers and magazine editors, this is your chance to get your work noticed. Submit images in up to six categories to be in the running to win the incredible Grand Prize and for the chance to see your work in the pages of National Geographic Traveller (UK). Have you got what it takes to win?

COMPETITION CATEGORIE S FOOD & TR AVEL LANDSCAPE This category calls for images that tell a story from From vast, panoramic vistas to drone shots that any stage of the journey from field to fork. Think capture the patterns of a terrain, this category is all dynamic scenes of fishing, farming or harvest, rich about offering unusual perspectives on the world shots of bustling street food markets and images of around us. Shots should be executed with flair, chefs in steamy kitchens. creativity and technique. LAST PEOPLE WILDLIFE CHANCE TO Travel portraiture means seeking out the human Witnessing animals in the wild is one of the great ENTER! stories within a destination. It requires a compelling joys of travel, but, as subjects, they certainly don’t subject and an interesting backdrop in which to play by our rules. This category calls for outstanding frame them. Plus, a little serendipity. shots of creatures great and small. URBAN ENVIRONMENTS PORTFOLIO Your composition should capture something Whether it’s Holi Festival in Kerala or surf culture of the spirit of a city or town, be it figures in Devon, your portfolio of up to 10 images of a moving amid striking architecture, moments of single destination will tease out different facets happenstance in a public square, or bold neon of a narrative to create a nuanced and cohesive signs lighting up the night. portrait of the place. THE PRIZES THE GRAND PRIZE One Grand Prize winner will receive a week-long adventure for two on one of Exodus Travels’ small- group trips to Jordan. Packed full of unforgettable highlights, the itinerary offers travellers unique experiences in the vast desert at Wadi Rum, camping like the Bedouin at an exclusive Exodus Travels camp; the opportunity to snorkel in the Red Sea; and guided tours of the ancient cities of Petra and Jerash. With 45 years’ experience, Exodus Travels excels in curating extraordinary group trips and was voted winner of the National Geographic Traveller (UK) Reader Awards 2021 prize for Best Operator. exodus.co.uk Australia’s Namadgi RUNNERS-UP National Park after a All category winners will receive a year-long bushfire, part of Jonathan subscription to National Geographic Traveller (UK) Doyle’s runner-up and tickets to a full suite of Masterclasses travel submission in 2021’s photography panel discussions in 2023. Porfolio category ENTER NOW Right: The Treasury in the ancient city of Petra, Jordan NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/COMPETITIONS Competition closes on 27 November 2022 at 23:59 GMT. The winner must be a resident of the UK or Ireland and aged 18 or over. Judges to be announced. See full T&Cs online. NOVEMBER 2022 17

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SM ART TR AVELLER WHAT ’ S N E W • FO O D • O N TH E TR AI L • WH ERE TO S TAY • FA MI LY • I N S I D E G U I D E • S TAY AT H OME • B O O K S SNAPSHOT Aroni, Kabalutan, Indonesia The village of Kabalutan, on the island of Sulawesi, is home to the Bajau people. For centuries, the Bajau have free-dived in the waters around them, catching and selling fish. While spending time there, I met Aroni, the only villager who crafts swimming goggles. He makes them from mangrove wood and recycled glass — it takes him two days to complete a pair. Meeting and chatting with Aroni was a highlight of my trip, and he showed me the age-old techniques he uses to work with just a handful of materials. His goggles don’t let water in and are as good as any mass-produced ones. LY N N GA I L • PH OTO G R A PH E R lynngail.com @lynn_1_gail DECEMBER 2022 19

BIG PICTURE Osa Peninsula, Puntarenas, Costa Rica Plagued by mosquitoes, I waded chest-deep into murky water where a gathering of male gliding tree frogs were calling. At dawn, thousands of females arrived at the pool to mate and lay their eggs on overhanging palm fronds. In this shot, the males are searching for females to pair up with. These spectacular mass-breeding events occur in only a few remote locations, a few times a year. Each female lays around 200 eggs, creating masses of spawn. Eventually, the tadpoles will drop into the water below and continue to grow. BRANDON GÜELL • PHOTOGRAPHER brandonguell.com @brandon_guell Highly Commended in the Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2022 awards. nhm.ac.uk/wpy 20 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

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SM ART TR AVELLER TORONTO WHAT’S NEW Star struck NEIGHBOURHOOD DIGS The Ace Hotel has opened in the hip THE LAUNCH OF A NEW MICHELIN GUIDE Garment District with a brick and TO THE CITY IS FURTHER PROOF OF ITS red-clay exterior and a soaring, light- GLITTERING GOURMET CREDENTIALS filled lobby. Rooms pay homage to Canada’s natural beauty, with plenty IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; LESLIE SETO Some will have wondered what took Michelin so Masaki Saito’s eponymous Japanese of wood and an earthy colour palette. long to visit Toronto. After all, this is a city that restaurant was the only one to clinch two A rooftop bar, Evangeline, is also in the really knows how to eat, whether it’s Chinese- stars. His tasting menu — served omakase works. From C$356 (£230), room only. Caribbean fusion food or spectacular sashimi. style, which means diners are led by the chef’s acehotel.com It’s the first Michelin Guide to a Canadian city, spontaneous creativity — doesn’t come cheap, and there’s plenty to whet the appetite. however, costing a cool C$680 (£435) a head. COSMIC COCKTAILS masakisaito.ca If you like your drinks with a view, According to the guide, the 74-strong list Offworld will take you to fresh heights. represents Toronto’s ‘international inspiration Not all entries on the list reach the same The new cocktail bar on Queen Street and distinct creativity’, with 13 restaurants dizzying heights of fine dining. Seventeen West has futuristic decor and virtual having received at least one Michelin star. restaurants also bagged a Bib Gourmand, ‘windows’, meaning visitors can sip Japanese cuisine features prominently, with the mark of great food at affordable prices. space-inspired tipples such as the the likes of Aburi Hana gaining a star for Reflecting the city’s culinary and cultural xenophauna — celery-infused gin, its sophisticated menu. Quetzal impressed diversity, top picks included diner The chartreuse, lime and demerara syrup, with its Mexican dishes cooked over a wood- Ace, which has been plying Torontonians garnished with a fried grasshopper burning grill, while Alo earned a star for its with brunch and dinner since the 1950s; — while overlooking the cosmos. contemporary French fare. Italian restaurant Campechano, with its beer-battered haddock offworldbar.com Don Alfonso 1890 was also recognised for the tacos; and Indian Street Food Company, whose likes of buffalo tenderloin wrapped in Swiss thali platters had reviewers salivating with STREETS AHEAD chard and hazelnut parfait. praise. theacetoronto.com Ossington Avenue has been named aburihana.com quetzaltoronto.com campechano.ca indianstreetfood.com one of the coolest streets in the alorestaurant.com donalfonsotoronto.com guide.michelin.com C O N N O R M C G OV E R N world by Time Out magazine and we hardly disagree: there’s Latin-Asian fusion fare at Foxley, sour ales at Bellwoods Brewery and ice cream sandwiches at Bang Bang, alongside vinyl shops, boutiques and plenty of street art. foxleybistro.com bellwoodsbrewery.com bangbangicecream.ca Meringue and mandarin dessert at Aburi Hana Above: Toronto sign in Nathan Phillips Square DECEMBER 2022 23



SM ART TR AVELLER BROADCASTING Cyberman costume on display as part of the Science Museum’s TUNE IN BBC At 100 exhibition Look back at a century of British broadcasting with this programme of exhibitions On 14 November 1922, the British Broadcasting Company began reporting from a studio on the Strand in London. A hundred years later, this rich heritage is the inspiration for the Science Museum Group’s series of exhibitions up and down the country, celebrating both the BBC’s centenary and the 40th anniversary of Channel 4. At London’s Science Museum, the BBC At 100 exhibition brings together a collection of artefacts from the past century, including a portable disc recorder used to report directly from the battlefields of the Second World War and a 1980s Cyberman costume from the 25th series of Doctor Who. The show focuses not just on broadcasting, but also on the pivotal role the Beeb has played in the nation’s education, too, with a look at its Computer Literacy Project from the 1970s, right up to BBC Bitesize. Runs until January 2023. In Bradford, meanwhile, the National Science and Media Museum is hosting Switched On until January, a hands-on exhibition that charts the evolution of broadcasting, from early 1920s radio microphones to high-definition streaming platforms. The BBC is well- represented, too, with a host of artefacts on display and a focus on some of the most influential figures in broadcasting, including David Attenborough and Doctor Who theme tune composer Delia Derbyshire. Manchester is also marking the centenary at the Science and Industry Museum, with a look at the city’s role as a hub of broadcasting innovation. Key to this was 2ZY Radio, one of the country’s first radio stations, and visitors can learn more about how listeners bought, built and tuned in their radios in the 1920s. There’s also the chance to look at the tech that’s likely to shape another century of TV and radio. Runs until February 2023. sciencemuseum.org.uk scienceandmediamuseum.org.uk scienceandindustrymuseum.org.uk CONNOR MCGOVERN IMAGE: THE BOARD OF TRUSTEES OF THE SCIENCE MUSEUM THREE TO TRY: THE BBC BROUGHT TO LIFE PEAKY BLINDERS POLDARK SHERLOCK The lauded series aired its final season earlier The pretty Cornish village of Charlestown, Step into the shoes of the famous sleuth in this year, but the thrills and spills needn’t stop near St Austell, played host to several scenes in this thrilling London escape room. Created by there. Fans of the show can head to the new the hit historical drama. It’s a must for history the makers of the BBC series, the experience Camden Garrison in London’s Camden Market buffs as it is for fans: rummage through antique also features original snippets from the for Peaky Blinders: The Rise, an immersive shops, admire the tall ships in the harbour and cast, including Benedict Cumberbatch and theatre experience that unfolds within the pop into the Shipwreck and Heritage Centre Andrew Scott. There’s even a Sherlock- gritty glamour of the 1920s. Flat caps optional. to learn more about Cornwall’s history of themed speakeasy to toast your achievements immersivepeakyblinders.com smuggling. shipwreckcharlestown.co.uk afterwards. thegameisnow.com DECEMBER 2022 25

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A TASTE OF SM ART TR AVELLER Romania MUST-TRY DISHES BAKED GOODS, GRAINS AND CURD CHEESE ARE POALE-N BRÂU CENTR AL TO THE CO U NTRY ’ S CU LINARY CU LTU RE There are many variations of sweet cheese pies in Romania. Poale-n brâu, or brânzoaice, are leavened with yeast, scented with lemon zest and delightfully soft. Roughly translating to ‘hem into the waistband’, the name of the dish comes from the custom of women tucking the corners of their aprons under their belts, similar to how these pies are folded. ȘTRUDEL CU DOVLEAC Although pumpkin strudels or pies are most abundant during autumn, they can be found in bakeries all year round. The filling can be as simple as grated pumpkin, sugar or honey and cinnamon, or more elaborate with golden raisins, chopped walnuts and a dash of rum. S U N FLOWE R S E E D HALVA Usually a Lent treat and rarely made at home, halva is served on its own or with bread. With hundreds of sunflowers fields, Romania is partial to sunflower oil and seeds, hence this unusual recipe. Served with coffee, it makes for an energising snack. Left: Poale-n brâu, a Romanian sweet cheese pie IMAGES: MATT RUSSELL Romania’s landscape is dominated There’s a love for fried breads IRINA by the Carpathian Mountains and and doughnuts all over the country, GEORGESCU the mighty River Danube, with too. Across the Transylvanian is a UK-based Romanian many smaller rivers carving their mountains, Romanian-Hungarian food writer and the way through forests and hills to families fry langoși potato bread, author of Tava nourish fertile plains. This is a topped with sour cream. The Saxon country of dairy, where creme villages welcome guests with The ingredient fraiche is so thick you can slice it doughnuts served with zesty curd Curd cheese is used in with a knife; of plums, which are cheese or simmered dumplings many desserts, adding turned into magiun fruit butter rolled in buttery bread crumbs. tanginess and light or baked into pies; and of walnuts, used in Grains are often used in sweet dishes, saltiness to balance many age-old dishes. It’s also a country of whether it’s rice, cracked wheat or pearl barley, out the sweetness overlapping cultures. Culinary exchanges while noodles are tossed with butter and happened over centuries of tumultuous poppy seeds, cooked in a vanilla soup with history, from the honey-sweetened cheese pies walnuts, or wrapped in filo pastry and baked. of the ancient Greeks and Romans, to the nutty Pancakes made with semolina and yoghurt halvas of the Ottomans and the rolled filo are specific to the Swabian communities in pastry strudel of the Habsburgs. the Banat region. Corncakes are enriched with curd cheese and eggs. A tava (baking tray) taken out of the oven Coffee is a dearly loved flavour in creams might carry a plăcintă (savoury cheese and buttercreams, and the tradition of pie), cornulețe crescents (pastries) filled drinking ‘Turkish’ coffee at the end of a meal is with scented rose petal jam, or delicate an essential part of the ritual at the table. But cookies used to sandwich a lush chocolate wherever you are and whatever you’re eating, a cream. It might carry Armenian kurabia small glass of plum brandy is never far away. (butter biscuits) or Jewish biscuits, since Tava, by Irina Georgescu, is published by both communities have been influential in Hardie Grant, £27. Romanian cuisine. DECEMBER 2022 27

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SM ART TR AVELLER ON THE TRAIL 3 KNOCKBRACK TOMB 5 SKY ROAD CONNEMARA A short drive from Letterfrack No road trip to this part of Ireland brings you to Knockbrack would be complete without a drive This region on Ireland’s wild, western coast Tomb, a burial chamber that along the Sky Road. The route has long inspired artists and poets. Discover overlooks Sellerna Beach. To get itself is only around 12 miles, its dramatic scenery on an epic road trip to this megalithic monument, but make sure to give yourself park at Sellerna Bay and make plenty of time to stop off along the the short walk along the bank way, taking in the jaw-dropping before heading up Cleggan scenery of glass-like lakes and Head. While the 13ft wedge tomb miles of mossy green fields. Part is undoubtedly impressive, a of the Wild Atlantic Way, the stop-off here also provides the road takes drivers up among the perfect viewpoint, with knockout hills for more panoramic views vistas of the sea and the island of of Clifden Bay and its offshore Inishbofin in the distance. islands, Inishturk and Turbot. ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE 1 CONNEMARA 2 LETTERFRACK 4 OMEY ISLAND 6 CLIFDEN NATIONAL PARK Drive on to this quiet village, also Swap trainers for riding boots Finish your grand tour with a visit located within the national park. or sea shoes with a visit to this to the ‘capital’ of Connemara. This Home to the Twelve Bens range Kylemore Abbey, a monastery mainly uninhabited island. pretty town has sandy beaches, and fields of purple moor grass, with walled gardens and a gothic Horse-riding and cold-water dips (more) swimming opportunities this almost 5,000-acre reserve church, is a must-see, but there are popular activities, but for and some excellent restaurants is a haven for wildlife-lovers. are also woodland, lakeshore something different, explore the — as well as the option to end Keep your eyes peeled for stoats, and riverside walks to work up an medieval church of Teampaill your trip with one final walk shrews and a multitude of birds, appetite. Stop for food two miles Feichin, which remained buried up to Clifden Castle. If an old- as well as the iconic Connemara away at Cloverfox and indulge in sand for centuries and is still fashioned pub is more appealing pony. Choose from a variety of in a feast at the Seafood Bar. You surrounded by the ruins of a semi- after all that hiking, swing by the trails, with options for walkers can’t go wrong with the Queen submerged town. Omey is a tidal welcoming Lowry’s Bar. A local of all levels; the sweeping views, of Platters: smoked salmon, crab island, and while you can drive or icon in the town centre, it has live all the way to the Atlantic on and king prawn. cloverfox.com walk here at low water, check tide Irish music seven nights a week. a clear day, are well worth it. kylemoreabbey.com times to avoid getting marooned. lowrysbar.ie O L I V I A M C L E A RO N connemaranationalpark.ie DECEMBER 2022 29

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WHERE TO STAY SM ART TR AVELLER Marseille Le Petit Nice Passedat B O UTI Q U E B O LTH O LE S PAY H OM AG E TO Founded in 1917, this five-star Relais & AN ANCIENT HISTORY AND THE SEA IN Chateaux property pairs Riviera glamour THIS SOUTHERN FRENCH CITY with a celebration of its waterfront setting. Perched on rocks descending into blue waters, ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR STANDARD DOUBLES, ROOM ONLY, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED. Tuba Club From top: The Old the retreat offers two villas and 16 rooms with IMAGES: GETTY; YANN AUDIC; RICHARD HAUGHTON Port of Marseille; New coastal decor and, in some cases, terraces with In France’s oldest city, celebrated for an ethnic diversity Hotel Le Quai; Le Petit sea views. Dine at the three-Michelin-starred that stems from centuries of trade, a growing number Nice Passedat on-site restaurant, on the poolside terrace, or at of boutique hotels are reflecting the local culture and Le 19-17 Bar. From €395 (£345). passedat.fr connection to the sea. One of the spots bringing new energy to the ancient city of Marseille is Tuba Club, set Les Bords de Mer on the waterfront in the neighbourhood of Les Goudes. This boutique property occupies the seafront The 2020 opening took over a century-old building, building that previously housed the Richelieu which started life as a restaurant before becoming a hotel. Preserving the art deco exterior, the diving club frequented by legendary French free diver owners transformed it into a contemporary Jacques Mayol in the 1980s. Fast-forward to today, space, featuring 19 guest rooms with floor-to- and it’s been completely reborn as a stylish, sea-facing ceiling windows. A rooftop pool, two-storey retreat, designed by a local collective of friends with spa and direct access to the sandy shores of backgrounds in cinema, architecture and fashion. Plage des Catalans add to the appeal. From €180 (£158). lesdomainesdefontenille.com Tuba Club celebrates its setting through its design, with upcycled furnishings appearing alongside the work New Hotel Le Quai of local artists and raw materials such as wood, stone, pearls and shells. Minimalist and bright, the hotel’s five Sitting opposite Marseille’s Old Port, this bedrooms feature seagrass on the floor, rope lamps and heritage hotel has recently been renovated headboards in marine plywood. to draw on the area’s multicultural heritage and links to overseas travel. From the lobby Within the seafood-inspired Tuba Restaurant and on and breakfast room to the 48 bedrooms, its terraces, diners tuck into seasonal Mediterranean international details such as Moroccan tiles dishes, including the catch of the day. The bar run through each space of the six-storey complements this culinary offering with cocktails that building. From €100 (£88). new-hotel.com reflect the flavours and stories that shape Marseille, as Tuba’s own radio station provides a soundtrack for it all. LAUREN JADE HILL Outside on the rocky shoreline, guests can soak up the DECEMBER 2022 31 sun on yellow-striped loungers before jumping straight into the sea. Activities include diving excursions, boat trips and canoeing. From €160 (£140). tuba-club.com

SM ART TR AVELLER Paddleboarders on Alderford Lake FA MI LY IMAGES: MARIA PIERI; BARRY PHILLIPS; RIVERSIDE CABINS From top: Riverside Cabins; Shrewsbury Market Hall WATER , WHEEL S 32 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL & WILDLIFE History and adventure make Shrewsbury an ideal getaway with teens Shrewsbury eBike Hire BEST FOR: SEEING THE SIGHTS AT A GENTLE PACE Set off on a self-guided tour of Shrewsbury on one of the town’s new e-bikes. Partly edging the River Severn and finishing at Flaxmill Maltings, the route is easy to follow with lots of stops along the way, including the Welsh Bridge, Shrewsbury Museum & Art Gallery and the Victorian-era Shrewsbury Prison, which closed in 2013 and is now open for tours. It’s most suitable for ages 14-plus, but attachable trailers are available to hire for younger ones. shrewsburyebikehire.co.uk Shrewsbury Market Hall BEST FOR: FOOD AND VINTAGE FINDS (AND GIN STOPS FOR THE ADULTS) Situated in the centre of town, this was an innovative example of modern architecture when it opened in 1965, controversially replacing the old Victorian Market Hall in the process. Recent revamps mean it’s now home to more than 70 independent businesses, including traditional market stalls, kitsch cafes, artisan producers, craft shops and antique dealers. Swing by in the morning for breakfast at local favourite The Bird’s Nest cafe – the waffles and gourmet breakfasts are a must. shrewsburymarkethall.co.uk thebirdsnestcafe.co.uk Shrewsbury Flaxmill Maltings BEST FOR: INSPIRING BUDDING ARCHITECTS This was the world’s first iron-framed building when it was purpose-built in 1797 — a forerunner of the modern skyscraper. A new visitor centre and cafe in the main mill opened in September as part of a huge restoration project led by Historic England — it’s also the end point of the Heritage Trail e-bike tour. An exhibition explores how the building has grown and been repurposed over the years, including as a temporary army barracks in the Second World War. shrewsburyflaxmillmaltings.org.uk Alderford Lake BEST FOR: MAKING A SPLASH Hire a wetsuit and tackle the new Aquapark, with Ninja Warrior-style inflatable obstacles. Alternatively, pick up an Aquabike (literally a bike on the water), try the Mega Sup (a standup paddleboard for four) or find your way off the island in the new Escape Islands activity. This winter, Santa Island Experience returns for a second year running, along with a new undercover ice rink. alderford.com Riverside Cabins BE ST FOR: QUIET, SC ENIC STAYS Opened in 2020, Riverside Cabins is a rural collection of wooden pods and lodges on the wildlife-rich, wooded banks of the River Perry, a 20-minute drive from Shrewsbury. Cabins sleep between two and six guests and each come with their own hot tubs and firepits, as well as wi-fi and smart TVs. Try your hand at SUP and kayaking along the river, with equipment available to borrow on site or head off on a scenic walk to the natural quarry. From £135 for a minimum of two nights for a family of four. riverside-cabins.co.uk MARIA PIERI

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INSIDE GUIDE SAN JOSE D I SCOVER MYSTERI O U S M AN S I O N S , SWEEPIN G VIN E YARDS AN D E XPERIENTIAL FINE DINING IN CALIFORNIA’S TECH CAPITAL With its wide, palm-lined streets, sprawling green parks nowhere, to ward off evil spirits. Nearby is the quirky and historic buildings, San Jose will surprise anyone Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum, where the artifacts have expecting the heart of Silicon Valley to be a densely a focus on spiritualism. Don’t miss the reproduction packed, futuristic hub. Only half an hour from the white- of an ancient tomb, as well as the manicured gardens. sand beaches of Santa Cruz, the 10th-largest city in the US winchestermysteryhouse.com egyptianmuseum.org has a small-town feel, but has a thriving arts scene, eclectic restaurants and plenty of live entertainment to rival many If you’re keen to explore more of San Jose’s green side, of its West Coast neighbours. the surrounding hills are threaded with hiking trails, and Almaden Quicksilver County Park’s 37-plus miles are the More than 40% of San Jose’s residents were born best of the bunch, shaded by heritage oak trees and dotted overseas, and local restaurants map their story. You’ll with wildflowers. Afterwards, wind down at the Mountain find cuisines from every corner of Asia, but iChina takes Winery and enjoy the vineyard views from its stone its modern fare one step further in its augmented reality chateau, or see who’s headlining one of the live summer room. Here, each creative course is paired with surround concerts. Previous performers have included Diana Ross, imagery — expect dishes such as sea cucumber stuffed Boy George and Willie Nelson, but you can enjoy a glass of with shrimp and lobster, while virtual jellyfish swim California’s best on the beautiful grounds at any time of over your plate. Alternatively, head to the Little Portugal year. parks.sccgov.org mountainwinery.com neighbourhood and Michelin-starred Adega, where locally sourced ingredients share the spotlight with a As this is the epicentre of the world’s tech industry, it dizzying selection of more than 200 wines and ports. would be remiss not to visit the Computer History Museum, Tiny and traditional Japantown, meanwhile, is home to 10 miles northwest of San Jose. Exhibits chart the evolution Shuei-Do, which has been making handmade manju (a of the technological world, from early vacuum tubes to soft sweet similar to mochi) for over 70 years. The peanut the self-driving car. From there, it’s a short hop to some of butter manju is justifiably popular. ichinarestaurant.com computing’s big-hitters: Facebook fans can snap a selfie at adegarest.com facebook.com/shueidomanju Meta’s ‘thumbs-up’ sign at 1 Hacker Way, before heading to the 42-acre Google Bay View Campus, opened in May Santana Row, with its upscale shops and restaurants, is 2022. You can’t go inside, but the buildings are a sight: a the place to be on Friday and Saturday nights. Yard House vast, sustainable complex with curving, tent-like canopies, is a high-end sports bar with an excellent selection of craft surrounded by 17 acres of wetlands and woodlands. beer, while Zazil serves upmarket Mexican fare, from citrusy computerhistory.org realestate.withgoogle.com shrimp ceviche to skirt steak with chorizo and black beans. Stay at the elegant Hotel Valencia, where you might just Last, visit the Apple Park — think of it as a kind of giant spot an A-lister at Vbar, its slick hangout. yardhouse.com Apple Store, with friendly guides on hand to show you zazilsantanarow.com hotelvalencia-santanarow.com around the futuristic building. If you’ve got kids in tow, don’t miss The Tech Interactive, a multistorey technology There’s an eerie side to San Jose, too. The Winchester centre in the heart of San Jose, where hands-on exhibits Mystery House is a Queen Anne-style mansion where explore a number of today’s big issues, from climate change a suspicious owner built stairways and doors that led to to space travel. apple.com thetech.org C E LE STE B R A S H LIKE A LOCAL SOFA ARTS GORDON BIERSCH EMPIRE 7 Brendan Rawson’s favourite DISTRICT BREWERY STUDIOS/SJ WALLS spots for art and music In this historic district, Most Thursdays, San This small gallery enjoy an evening Jose Jazz’s Boombox focuses on local Brendan Rawson concert at the Silicon Truck parks here while artists, and it’s also is the executive Valley Symphony vendors congregate ground zero for director of San or San Jose Opera. to feed the music SJ Walls, a street- Jose Jazz, which Nearby bars and fans. Get excellent art initiative that champions the restaurants swell with beers on tap while highlights San Jose’s genre in the city. music and revellers. grooving to live music. multicultural makeup. sanjosejazz.org sofadistrict.org gordonbiersch.com sjwalls.com 3 4 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

SM ART TR AVELLER The California Theatre, a performing arts venue since the 1920s Clockwise from right: Enjoying the sun in Plaza de Cesar Chavez; dining area at iChina; crispy tofu, steamed egg and pickle platter at iChina IMAGES: DAVID BINDER; ICHINA RESTAURANT DECEMBER 2022 35

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SM ART TR AVELLER STAY AT HOME DUNGENESS Known for its desolate, end-of-the-world beauty, this Kent headland harbours artist studios, birding trails and excellent seafood IMAGES: SUPERSTOCK Why go Where to eat WHE RE TO STAY Often erroneously described as a desert, the Serving up beach vistas and freshly caught Set on the Dungeness shore, southernmost point of Kent offers a barren seafood, shipping-container cafe The Snack Shingle House is a striking gem and bewitching backdrop for a getaway. A vast Shack is the best spot for lunch on a dry day. that engages with the area’s swathe of this shingle headland is designated The menu depends upon the morning catch, vast expanses of beach and sky a National Nature Reserve, cradling around a but staples include lime-and-chilli fish with through huge bifold doors. The third of all British plant species, with some 600 flatbread, crab rolls and smoked cod chowder. cedar timber house has been having been recorded, from rugged sea kale to For dinner, reserve a table at family-run The stained black to mirror the style delicate orchids. Exposed to the Channel and Pilot Inn, and enjoy arguably the best fish and of the old fishermen’s huts that loomed over by twin nuclear power stations, chips in the area. dungenesssnackshack.net line the coast. Sleeps eight, Dungeness has, over recent decades, become thepilotdungeness.co.uk from £1,750 for four nights. an unlikely enclave for artists and a popular living-architecture.co.uk spot for day-trippers, horticulturalists and We like birders alike. visitkent.co.uk dungeness.org.uk From top: Fishing boats on Dungeness dungeness-nnr.co.uk Check out Romney Marsh Brewery’s beer Beach; Shingle House garden, located out the back of Dungeness’s What to do quaint station, a terminus on the 13.5-mile DECEMBER 2022 37 Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway. For a small entrance fee, it’s possible to reach The small bar is aptly called Ales by the Rails, the top of the Grade II-listed Dungeness Old and there are few more quintessential local Lighthouse, which guided passing mariners activities than sipping a lager while watching between 1904 and 1960. Nearby is a cluster miniature steam locomotives roll in and out. of artist studios and galleries: at Marina, artist romneymarshbrewery.com rhdr.org.uk Paddy Hamilton exhibits stylish lino prints. Photographer Chris Shore and watercolourist Don’t miss Helen Taylor sell their work in a unique showroom made from Edwardian railway Dungeness’s most famous resident was the carriages in nearby Caithness. Further inland late filmmaker and activist Derek Jarman, lies the RSPB Dungeness Nature Reserve, who created a garden from the shingle around home to four nature trails and multiple birding his home, Prospect Cottage, incorporating hides. Be sure to bring binoculars or rent them iron sculptures, driftwood and wildflowers. at the visitor centre. paintings-for-sale.net Jarman died in 1994; his home is something dungenessgallery.co.uk rspb.org.uk of a pilgrimage site for many creatives today. creativefolkestone.org.uk A M E LI A D U G GA N

Go cliff diving, canyoneering or swimming at Kawasan Falls, 40mins from Moalboal, Cebu This canyoneering starts in the mountain area of Badian with other adrenaline pumping activities including hiking, climbing, rafting and jumping off Kawayan falls. Experience the adventure of a lifetime! Check out the Cebu Kawayan Canyoneering Package at ww.expedia.co.uk | For more safe travel updates and destination info, visit www.itsmorefuninthephilippines.co.uk

SM ART TR AVELLER BOOKS The writer’s journey TR AVEL HA S TAKEN SOME OF OUR GRE ATEST WRITERS TO UNEXPECTED PLACES, BOTH ON AND OFF THE PAGE. A NE W TITLE E XPLORES THE TRIPS WITH A RE AL TALE TO TELL Does an author ever go off duty? Quite the of making a particular journey often find contrary, according to The Writer’s Journey: themselves on a different course entirely, as In the Footsteps of the Literary Greats, a new is the case with the entry on Baudelaire. illustrated atlas by Travis Elborough, which tracks illustrious authors on 35 seminal trips As an errant youth, the French poet was that changed the literary world. packed off to India but failed to get there, a storm forcing him to spend months in the Taking a journey away from your norm, Indian Ocean before he returned to Paris, an says Elborough, works wonders on the experience that furnished him with material creative imagination. It can inspire a change for a lifetime. of tack, a brave new work or provide the The Writer’s Journey: In the Footsteps of moment that ignites the desire to be a writer. the Literary Greats by Travis Elborough is published by White Lion Publishing, £20. Even failure can be fruitful — in fact, SARAH BARRELL those who set off with the express purpose LITER ARY TRIPS THAT CHANGED THE WORLD IMAGES: ANDREW PINDER; GETTY Hans Christian Maya Angelou stays Agatha Christie’s Andersen becomes in Ghana by accident divorce gets her a novelist in Italy on track The North American Forever associated with storyteller was also an It was divorce from his native Denmark, it ardent civil rights activist. her first husband was during an 1833 trip to Her long-term work with that saw the Queen Italy that Andersen began Dr Martin Luther King of Crime seek solace his first, semi-autobiographical novel, The eventually led Angelou to leave the US for in travel. Two days before a planned trip to the Improvisatore. Thrilled by the sights and sounds Africa. In 1962, before managing to take up a West Indies, a chance encounter turned her of Catholic churches, ancient temples and post in the Ministry of Information in Liberia, attentions to the charms of Baghdad which, she improvisatori (street performers) — as well as a she travelled through Ghana where her son was discovered, she could reach by train — and not Vesuvius eruption during a side trip to Naples injured in a road traffic accident. She stayed just any train, but the esteemed Orient Express. — he made the book’s hero, Antonio, an Italian for his recuperation and, after falling for the She cancelled her West Indies tickets the next singer raised in poverty in Rome. He reluctantly country, remained there for another two years, morning and exchanged them for passage on the returned to Denmark where his novel and first which informed memoirs such as All God’s luxurious locomotive, on which she would have collection of fairytales were published in 1835. Children Need Travelling Shoes. Hercule Poirot solve his most notorious case. DECEMBER 2022 39

SM ART TR AVELLER KIT LIST WINTER HIKING Head for the hills this season, whatever the weather, with our pick of the best winter walking gear 1 DANNER ARCTIC 600 1 5 ARC ’TERYX BETA 2 SIDE-ZIP BOOTS SV JACKET Billed as ‘the answer to winter 5 Gore-Tex technology is part of adventures’, these sturdy, rubber- 3 what makes this waterproof from soled boots from US brand Danner Arc’teryx top of the line. The will provide all the traction 7 designers had Alpine climbers in necessary should conditions turn mind, so each feature has been icy. Staying dry won’t be an issue, 8 engineered to keep the wearer either: the stylish suede outer 4 safe and dry in the most adverse layers have been enhanced with conditions. The tall collar and insulation and a ‘100%’ waterproof sculpted hood keep your head barrier. They’re still breathable, protected in storms, too. £600. too. £230. global.danner.com arcteryx.com 2 SMARTWOOL HIKE 6 OSPREY ARCHEON LIGHT CUSHION MOUNTAIN 2 5 DAYPAC K This backpack is sturdy with an RANGE SOCKS environmentally friendly spec. A When the terrain gets rough, you’ll foam-ridged back panel, padded be glad you opted for a specially hip fins and a removable hip belt engineered hiking sock made from ensure comfort even with heavier moisture-wicking merino wool. loads, while the sternum strap Smartwool designed its durable, features an emergency whistle breathable mountain range to 6 as standard. The roll-top closure help hikers go the extra mile, from is fully waterproof, and there extra sole cushioning to flexible are a number of handy external panelling around the ankle. pockets. £140. ospreyeurope.com £22.99. smartwool.co.uk 7 SHACKLETON DOCKER 3 MONTANE ANTI-FREEZE MERINO SWEATER XT HOODED DOWN JACKET A luxurious choice for a mid-layer, Put through its paces by expedition outfitter Shackleton’s Montane’s team of extreme thermo-regulating docker sweater athletes, this down jacket is is made with 100% merino wool. exceptionally lightweight and It’s lightweight, fast-drying seriously warm. It easily packs and designed with ribbing at away into a small stuff sack, the shoulders to help cushion a and has strong sustainability backpack. With a high collar and credentials, with recycled outer quarter zip for ventilation, this fabric and down lining. Clever piece performs in tough climates, features include adjustable cuffs, from Pembrokeshire to the South hem and hood to minimise heat Pole. £195. shackleton.com loss. £250. montane.com 8 TWOTHIRDS JIDDA JACKET 4 JACK WOLFSKIN Planet-friendly Spanish brand TwoThirds is on a mission to HOLDSTEIG TROUSERS tackle the fashion industry’s Available in regular, short and role in ocean pollution, and this tall models, these lined, softshell cosy corduroy coat uses recycled trousers are both wind resistant padding, pesticide-free cotton and water repellent, making them and a low water waste process to perfect for changeable weather reduce its footprint. Currently conditions. Cut to maximise available in blue, the stylish and movement, the trousers have been eco-savvy Jidda model is versatile developed with innovative fabric across country walks and coastal technologies. If you’re looking for hikes. £244. twothirds.com a stretchy, breathable, moisture- AMELIA DUGGAN wicking garment, this pair does it all. £120. jack-wolfskin.co.uk 4 0 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

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COMPETITION WIN A LUXURY STAY FOR TWO IN TURKEY National Geographic Traveller (UK) has teamed up with Susona Bodrum to offer a three-night stay on Turkey’s Turquoise Coast IMAGES: SUSONA BODRUM THE DESTINATION From above: King Premium Suite with private pool; dining area overlooking The Turquoise Coast is the stuff of winter the Aegean Sea daydreams: golden beaches, coastal paths fragrant with orange trees and rocky cliffs TO ENTER sheering into the Aegean. Susona Bodrum sits at the heart of this timeless landscape, a five-star Answer the following question retreat that revels in its spectacular location. online at nationalgeographic.co.uk/ Tuck into dinner at one of the hotel’s restaurants competitions and bars; sip cocktails in the buzzy Frankie WHICH COLOUR IS THE LOCAL Beach Club; or unwind in the spa, home to an COASTLINE NAMED FOR? authentic Turkish hammam. There’s plenty to Competition closes on 31 December discover nearby, too, including quiet coves and 2022. The winner must be a resident ancient Roman ruins, while the town of Bodrum, of the UK and aged 18 or over. Full with its historic castle and lively cafes, is just a T&Cs at nationalgeographic.co.uk/ 15-minute drive away. competitions THE PRIZE DECEMBER 2022 43 Courtesy of Susona Bodrum, part of Hilton’s LXR Hotels & Resorts, the winner and a guest will enjoy a three-night stay in a signature sea view room on a B&B basis. During the stay, guests will also be able to enjoy a complimentary three- course dinner for two at boho-chic Malva, where regionally inspired dishes are paired with live music and epic sea views. Also included in the prize are return flights for two to Bodrum with Turkish Airlines, and complimentary airport transfers within Turkey. susonabodrum.com turkishairlines.com

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SM ART TR AVELLER NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR STATEN I SL AND The lesser-known New York borough gets short shrift from both locals and visitors, but it provided Will Ashon with a revelation that led to his latest book ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY In July 2017, I was in New York, finishing This is the only borough My nonfiction work was therefore a type of the research for my book, Chamber Music, of New York to have more collage. Of course, hip-hop itself is a collage a study of the first album by hip-hop group homeowners than renters, the form, particularly the early 1990s ‘Golden Era’ the Wu-Tang Clan. I say I was in New York, only borough to consistently of sampling — music that has obsessed and and of course I was, but there are certain vote Republican and the only enlightened me for the past 30 years. caveats. I was staying with friends of friends in place in the whole of the downtown Manhattan, but my days were spent US where I have ever seen a I was in Staten Island mainly to walk. I in Staten Island, the original home of most of man in an Italian national had to visit both Stapleton Houses and Park the band’s members. Hill, the two warring projects where most soccer shirt members of the group grew up. I wanted to go Staten Island is the fifth borough of New to Morningstar Road, over on the North Shore, York City, but most visitors to the city go there where RZA — the group’s founder — had only for the briefest amount of time. That’s gathered the other prospective members to lay because the famous yellow ferries that chug out his five-year plan for world domination. back and forth across Upper New York Bay But mainly I wanted to tramp the streets dock there after cutting a path past the Statue because RZA, on returning to New York in of Liberty and, on the return journey, offer a 1991, had done the same, and that was how wonderful view of Manhattan. The top decks he’d come up with his plan. According to of these vessels, which are free to travel on, are his book, The Tao of Wu: “In Staten Island, I crammed with tourists taking selfies, while walked every day for hours… I’d walk from the downstairs the locals sit reading, chatting on Park Hill projects to the Staten Island ferry the phone or listening to music. dock, from New Brighton to the Stapleton projects, walking through May, June, July… Most of the tourists never make it out of Those walks were a form of meditation.” So, the ferry terminal at St George, where they I tried to follow him, sweating in the heat, wait for the next boat to carry them back to and I received my own revelation. Manhattan. Much the same seems true for a lot of New Yorkers, who perhaps pop across to For my next book, I decided, I would make use the sports fields near the terminal or make a collage without the thin mortar of my own a summer trip to the beaches along the East writing between the quotes. A true collage Shore. They have little affection for an area that made up solely of other people’s words. feels closer — spiritually and geographically Everyday people like the girl who sold me a — to New Jersey. It’s the only borough of Snapple that morning, or the guy sitting on a New York to have more homeowners than leather sofa outside his bric-a-brac store, who renters, the only borough to consistently began chatting to me as I passed. Each block of vote Republican and the only place in the words would be carefully carved down into the whole of the US where I have ever seen a man correct shape and then piled up with the effort in an Italian national soccer shirt. Staten and care of an Ancient Egyptian pyramid Island reminds me of the East London-Essex builder. I moved my focus to the UK, and it hinterlands and is treated by the rest of the city would take me five years to see The Passengers with much the same level of condescension. published. But I took the first tiny steps in the heat of a New York summer as I marched My reasons for writing about the Wu-Tang round Staten Island looking for RZA on the Clan were complex, but had partly grown least-glamorous streets of that great city. In a from an understanding about what I was funny way, I guess I found him. doing as a novice nonfiction writer. A large part of putting a book of this sort together, it Founder of independent record label Big Dada, seemed to me, was to speak to a lot of people Will Ashon’s latest book, The Passengers (published and then make patterns of the best and most by Faber, £14.99), comprises 180 testimonies from interesting aspects of what everyone said, people he encountered when travelling around the hopefully in such a way that the different UK between 2018 and 2021. elements reflected on and illuminated each other in new and interesting ways. @willashon DECEMBER 2022 45

SM ART TR AVELLER MEET THE ADVENTURER Sebastião Salgado THE CELEBR ATED BR A ZILIAN PHOTOJOURNALI ST HA S RETURNED HOME TO FOCUS ON ENVIRONMENTAL RESTOR ATION IN VALE DO RIO DOCE farmers for good. But when we got there, we found the land had been completely eroded. It used to be beautiful, all forested, with a river streaming through it where I’d swim as a child. It was Lélia who asked me, “Sebastião, why do you not replant the forest?” In 1998, you and Lélia set up the nonprofit Instituto Terra to effect environmental restoration. What were the first steps? It was the first time anyone had planted a rainforest on a large scale in Brazil. To rehabilitate the whole estate, we had to plant around three million trees. I had a name in photography, so I managed to raise money and we started planting an average of 150,000 trees per year. Then came a nursery, a laboratory for the seeds, which allowed us to plant over 200 different species of native tropical trees. Afterwards, we created a training centre for environmental technicians and enrolled 20 farmers per year. We didn’t do this because of an ideology or activism; we were just ordinary citizens, who decided to plant a forest. What drew you to the camera? What does the farm look like now? READ THE FULL IMAGE: ALAMY I was doing a PhD in economics in Paris when my wife We’ve planted those three million trees, and Instituto Terra INTERVIEW Lélia, who was studying architecture, bought a camera. has become the biggest rural ecological institute in Brazil. ONLINE AT I looked through a viewfinder and my life completely We’ve brought back a huge amount of biodiversity: we have N AT I O N A L changed. What I loved, what I found interesting, what made practically all the insects of the region, 173 different bird GEOGRAPHIC. me upset — I could capture it all. Photography took up so species, mammals — even jaguars. Now these pockets of CO.UK/TR AVEL much time there was nothing left for any other activity. biodiversity are starting to radiate out to other areas. How did your early life inform the stories you What’s next? covered as a photojournalist? We’ve created a project for the entire Vale do Rio Doce. The I came from an underdeveloped country with huge valley was named after the river that runs through it, the social problems, and for a while I studied and worked Rio Doce. When I was a child, it was large, full of alligators; as an economist. I was a Marxist, then became a Maoist today, there’s very little water left. We’re rehabilitating the and afterwards a hippy. These movements gave me a entire water basin — each small stream that feeds the river communitarian vision of the planet, which inevitably led and 370,000 springs. To rehabilitate a source of water, you me to a human, social kind of photography. I focused on must plant on average 500 trees in one hectare of land. So this for most of my life, until I became an environmentalist. far, we’ve planted about 2,100 such small forests, and we’ve just received financing to plant 4,200 more. Why did you turn to environmentalism? As a photographer, I witnessed terrible things. After How has your relationship with nature changed? documenting the 1994 Rwandan genocide, I became sick When I returned to the farm, I came back to my origins. I and grew hugely depressed. A doctor recommended I rest know it as I know my palm lines; it’s 37 miles in length, but for a few months, so Lélia and I moved back to Brazil, to I know every angle, every stone. I came to know it when the southern state of Bahia. We lived by the beach, close to it was a forest, and I’m seeing it as a forest again. Today, ancient tribes. I became quieter, I felt better. I realise I’m closing a circle, and this circle is my life. Around this time, my parents left me the family farm INTERVIEW: ANGEL A LOCATELLI in Vale do Rio Doce, in the neighbouring state of Minas Gerais. We decided to abandon photography and become This year, Annabel’s private club in London hosted Sebastião Salgado, co-founder of Instituto Terra, as part of its annual Annabel’s for the Amazon campaign, in partnership with The Caring Family Foundation, aiming to raise awareness about deforestation. annabels.co.uk thecaringfamilyfoundation.org institutoterra.org 4 6 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL



WHAT’S ONLINE THE U LTIM ATE C HRI STM A S MARKETS TO VISIT BY RAIL Mulled wine, ice skating and festive chalets can only mean one thing: ’tis the season for Christmas markets across Europe, some easily reached by train. Words: Sarah Riches COLOGNE, GERMANY E D I N B U RG H , SCOTLAND PARIS, FRANCE Set outside the gothic cathedral, Cologne’s The Scottish capital’s Christmas market is The scent of roasted chestnuts fills the air biggest market is home to 150 stalls set promising its biggest and best iteration yet, at La Magie de Noël in Tuileries Garden, the beneath a canopy of fairy lights. Shop for with stalls returning to The Mound, Princes largest of Paris’s festive markets. Stretching snow globes and erzgebirge wooden toys, Street and Princes Street Gardens. Plus, there from Place de la Concorde to Rue des and observe artisans working to the are plans for a Scottish market on Castle Street Pyramides, it was first held here in 2018. soundtrack of carols. Two streets south, and an artisan market on High Street and Children will delight in taking the Santa on Alter Markt and Heumarkt, woodcarvers West Parliament Square. A new illuminated Train, teens can whizz about in bumper and metalworkers produce stocking fillers Spectacle of Light trail will weave through cars, while all ages will enjoy the Ferris at Heinzels Winter’s Fairytale, a collection West Princes Street Garden, near Santa’s wheel. Explore the chalets selling produce of 100 half-timbered huts straight from Grotto. Take a spin on the Ferris wheel then such as cheese, chocolate and mulled wine, Hansel and Gretel set around an outdoor ice warm up over a wild game burger, mulled Irn- then end your night in a Champagne igloo. rink. 21 November 2022 to 23 December 2022 Bru or dram of whisky. Slàinte mhath. 20 November 2022 to 2 January 2023 How to get there: Eurostar trains from 18 November 2022 to 3 January 2023 How to get there: Direct Eurostar trains London St Pancras International to Cologne How to get there: Edinburgh is served by from London St Pancras International to take from 4h10m, with a change in Brussels. numerous train routes from across the UK. Paris take 2hr16m. R E A D T H E F U L L L I S T O N L I N E TOP USA AUTUMN TR AVEL GUIDE STORIES Five of the coolest East Coast Europe’s 25 most celebrated Where to travel in December Here’s what you’ve alternatives to New York harvest events Whether you’re after a winter been enjoying on the These cities deserve your attention From seasonal feasts to getting wonderland or winter sun, here website this month on your next trip stateside your hands dirty on the farm are our top recommendations 4 8 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

ONLINE HOW TO SAMPLE ZURICH’S BEYOND THE PL ANT-BASED FOOD SCENE TR AVEL SECTION FOR FIRST- CL A SS, ME AT-FREE DINING, LOOK NO FURTHER THAN | ANIMALS | SWITZERL AND’S BIGGEST CIT Y. WORDS: FLORENCE DERRICK Ligers, zorses and pizzlies: How animals hybrids happen Switzerland’s largest city might not spring to station. You’ll need the energy for the 187-step Interbreeding between animals of mind as an epicentre of vegetarian and vegan walk up the Grossmünster tower, in the Old different lineages is widespread in living, but Zurich has a thriving, meat-free Town. From the top, you can enjoy views all nature — and may reveal some of culinary scene. It’s perhaps only fitting in the way from Lake Zurich and across the city’s the mysteries of evolution. a country that regularly ranks as one of the brown-tiled roofs to the tree-clad hills beyond. best for social progress, and where one of | SCIENCE | Europe’s top universities, ETH Zurich, is home For lunch, stop at the ‘plant-first’ Kreuterbar Want to live longer? Influence to groundbreaking startups innovating with food truck, stationed on Europaallee, where your genes plant-based ‘meats’. regional and seasonal vegetables are cooked By making healthy lifestyle choices, into high-end street food snacks: think you can self-engineer genetic While there are dedicated veggie dining pan-fried fennel cloaked in plum chutney, alterations to prevent disease and spaces, the city’s food scene at large leans or baked celeriac slathered in an earthy, boost longevity. towards flexitarianism, with restaurants often walnut dressing. Produce is from local farms, putting vegetables at the fore, with optional including ingredients not normally grown in | SPACE | dairy or meat elements added on request. Switzerland, such as quinoa and ginger. Behind How helicopters are shaking up the stove is Bartosz Bogacz, who trained at the hunt for life on Mars Start with a caffeine boost right in the city Marktküche, one of Zurich’s first high-end NASA’s Perseverance rover recently centre at Roots, a plant-based coffeeshop a vegetarian restaurants. R E A D M O R E O N LI N E collected rocks that may hold three-minute walk from Zurich Hauptbahnhof tantalising clues to ancient aliens — even as engineers make big IMAGES: GETTY; CHRIS SCHALKX; JOËL SARTORE; KATE BEAN PHOTOGRAPHY changes to their plans for getting those samples to Earth. G O O N LI N E : VI S IT N ATI O N A LG E O G R A PH I C .C O.U K / TR AV E L FO R N E W TR AVEL FE AT U RE S DAI LY N O - FLY TR AV E L FOOD THAILAND SEARCH FOR NATGEOTR AVELUK Seven luxury experiences Top 10 restaurants in Ireland A culinary guide to Bangkok in the UK and Ireland From Michelin-starred magic to Famous for its street food, the Thai FAC E B O O K Travel inspiration for special cutting-edge fast food, here’s capital is also home to a flourishing INSTAGR A M adventures in the British Isles where to find the best Irish menus fine dining scene TWITTER DECEMBER 2022 49

WEEKENDER ZAR AGOZA Full of elaborate architecture and thrumming with vibrant tapas bars, the Aragónese capital is a rich, storied base for exploring the stirring landscapes of Spain’s wild north east. Words: Stephen Phelan No Spanish place name holds as much mighty basilica of Nuestra Señora del Pilar, mysterious promise as Zaragoza. It sounds which marks the spot where the Virgin Mary like a magic word, the last phonetic flourish supposedly appeared to St James in AD 40. of a witch’s spell. Appropriate, given the city Step inside and you’ll find its inner domes almost feels conjured from the wind-whipped coloured by the art of Francisco de Goya, the moors around halfway between Madrid and artist born close enough to the city in 1746 to Barcelona. Standing on the River Ebro, this qualify as a local hero. provincial capital has witnessed centuries of turbulence as the capital of the former The master painter’s ubiquitous work kingdom of Aragón — a domain variously remains a totem of Zaragoza’s abiding creative occupied over the millennia by Romans, spirit, and its people — nicknamed ‘maños’ Islamic caliphates, Catholic monarchs — have inherited some of Spain’s richest and the forces of General Franco. traditions, from chocolate-making to lively folk dances. But perhaps the greatest magic All left their mark on the present is in the Old Town: a painted labyrinth of architecture, but there are few buildings more taverns, courtyards and tapas bars that evocative than the baroque spires around the thrum at night like blood through veins. 50 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL