Introduction to Cosmetic Product Development 1704706 Cosmetic Product Development Assoc. Prof. Dr. Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul [email protected] 1 https://www.pngegg.com/th/png-basun
OBJECTIVES • To tell and signify the information of cosmetic sciences • To define the meaning and identify cosmetic products • To explain and divide each cosmetic dosage form • To exemplify some cosmetic ingredients and cosmetic information sources • To signify the career path in cosmetic fields and cosmetic trends 2
CONTENTS • Cosmetic sciences • History • Definition of cosmetics • Various roles of cosmetic scientists in the cosmetic industry • Cosmetic dosage forms • Cosmetic ingredients • Cosmetic information sources • Cosmetic trends 3
1. Cosmetic Sciences Cosmetic Sciences A real science and multidisciplinary field Included basic knowledge and a wide range of information from a number of different scientific fields. COSMETIC Anatomy and physiology SCIENCES Chemistry Pharmacology Analytical sciences 4 Microbiology Formulation technology Current rules and regulations Customer needs Marketing and business etc.
Anatomy and Physiology Basic knowledge of anatomy and physiology is needed to understand the structure and function of the skin, hair, lips, teeth and so on, to where products are usually applied. Chemistry A chemical background including organic, inorganic, colloid and polymer chemistry is required. It is necessary to understand the basic physical, chemical and physicochemical properties of the raw materials that are typically used. 5
Pharmacology To be able to choose the appropriated ingredients, the basic properties of the raw materials on the target surfaces have to be known. Analytical Sciences & Microbiology Education in analytical sciences as well as microbiology is also important in order to understand the different types of tests and testing methods that are performed for cosmetics to evaluate their safety, stability, etc. 6 6
Formulation Technology Need to be aware of and understand the different dosage forms form which they can choose to incorporate the ingredients. To know the various manufacturing techniques that are used to produce the dosage forms Current Rules and Regulations To be aware of and understand the guidelines, rules and regulations relevant for cosmetics and regulate labeling and packaging of final cosmetic products. 7
Marketing and Business Basic understanding of marketing and business is essential to understand how a business, such as the cosmetic industry, works. Customer Needs Understanding what consumers expect from products and what their needs are, is also required in order to be able to target those needs and satisfy consumers (consumer needs). 8
Anatomy and Physiology &Pharmacology Topically applied nanoparticles can penetrate the skin in one of three different ways: (1) through the appendageal route (2) through the intracellular route (3) through the intercellular route file:///C:/Users/Acer/Downloads/Nanoparticle-Enabled_Transdermal_Drug_Delivery_Sys.pdf The appendageal route involves the substances entering hair follicles, sweat glands The intracellular route involves a direct path through the cell membrane of multiple layers of the epidermis. The intercellular route involves a more tortuous path between epidermal cells. The pathway taken likely depends on the nanoparticle size, charge, morphology, and material. 9
2. History History When were cosmetics first used by people? In early stone age Why did early societies use cosmetics? To protect themselves against dryness from cold, burns of strong sunlight To be used for religious purposes To guard against evils 10
History The main purposes for using cosmetics in modern society To clean the face and body To protect skin and hair from damaging ultraviolet light, pollutants and other environmental factors To enhance attractiveness To improve self-esteem etc. “Cosmetics” is derived from the Greek Kosm tikos ; meaning “having the power to arrange and skill in decorating” 11
Cosmetics in history is divided in 3 eras 1. Prehistory 2. History History 3. Modern cosmetics 1. Prehistory 2. History Non scientific (Religion and Occultism) (Cosmetics and Remedy) (Religion, Occultism, Cosmetics and Remedy) 460-375 B.C. Hippocretis Tattoo Scarification “Father of Medicine” 129-199 A.D. Galen “Father of Pharmacy” Body painting “Cold cream” designed to help counteract the effects of Using substances from naturals contemporary (plants, animals or minerals) Makeup. This recipe is the basis of modern cold cream. 1710 Femini, Eau de Cologne (Cologne Water) ; Trials and Errors a citrus and rosemary-based composition known as Aqua Mirabilis Coloni 12
3. Modern cosmetics (Religion) (Occultism) (Cosmetics) (Remedy) 1818 H2O2 Hair Bleaching History 1870 Collapsible tube; Colgate & Palmolive, Ltd. 1905 Charles Nessler Hot waving process 1938 FDA; Cosmetic law (FDC&A) 1939 Cosmetic company e.g. Helena Rubenstein, Elizabeth Arden Charles Revson and Avon , etc. 13
Cosmetic Acts 1992 ASEAN Cosmetics 3 Classes : Cosmetic Acts 2015 General cosmetics Controlled cosmetics Controlled cosmetics Specially controlled cosmetics https://www.fda.moph.go.th/sites/Cosmetic/Pages/Main.aspx Website: https://aseancosmetics.org/ 14
ASEAN COSMETICS ASEAN Harmonization & Regulation for Cosmetics https://sites.google.com/site/narumol1540/association-of-southeast-asian-nations 15 Vision: One Single Regulatory Scheme for the Region
ASEAN Cosmetic Definition A cosmetic product” shall mean any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odor and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition Target site of application Intended function External parts of human body Cleaning Teeth Perfuming Oral mucous membranes Changing the appearance Correcting body odors Keeping in good condition 16
Philosophy of the ASEAN Cosmetic Harmonization All product’s requirements of the ASEAN Cosmetic Document should have an equal and immediate access to the market and be able to circulate freely throughout ASEAN countries. The product must be safe. The company responsible for placing product on the market must be in a position to demonstrate this safety. The company placing on the market must give adequate information to consumers. 17
https://zula.sg/lazy-skincare-guide/ https://www.herstylecode.com/health/top-10-best-anti-aging-products/ https://hudabeauty.com/us/en_US/blog/the-best-anti-aging-products-and-tools-of-2018- 47528.html COSMETIC PRODUCTS https://www.vectorstock.com/royalty-free- http://www.mybeautifulflaws.com/skincare/top-favorites-for-skincare-anti-aging- 18 vector/color-makeup-products-vector-22909632 products/
Definition of Cosmetics 3. Definition of Cosmetics Cosmetics :A cosmetic product” shall mean any substances or preparations intended to be placed in contact (by applying to, massaging or rubbing into, sprinkling or spraying on, dropping onto, introducing into, perfuming, or by any other means,) with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odors and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition but shall not include ornaments and clothing which are deemed as accessories outside human body. From: TENTATIVE TRANSLATION COSMETICS ACT B.E. 2558 (2015). http://e- cosmetic.fda.moph.go.th/data_center/ifm_mod/nw/unoffial_translation_Cosmetic_Act_2015.p19df.
Definition of Cosmetics 3. Definition of Cosmetics “เคร่ืองสาํ อาง” หมายความว่า (1) วัตถุที่มุ่งหมายสําหรับใช้ทา ถู นวด โรย พ่น หยอด ใส่ อบ หรือกระทาํ ด้วยวิธีอ่ืนใด กับ ส่วนภายนอกของร่างกายมนุษย์ และให้หมายความรวมถึงการใช้กับฟันและเยื่อบุในช่องปาก โดยมีวัตถุประสงคเ์ พื่อความสะอาด ความสวยงาม หรือเปล่ียนแปลงลักษณะที่ปรากฏ หรือ ระงับกล่ินกาย หรือปกป้องดูแลส่วนต่างๆ นั้น ให้อยู่ในสภาพดี และรวมตลอดทั้งเครื่อง ประท่ินต่างๆ สําหรับผิวด้วย แต่ไม่รวมถึงเครื่องประดับและเครื่องแต่งตัวซึ่งเป็ นอุปกรณ์ ภายนอกร่างกาย (2) วัตถุทมี่ ุ่งหมายสาํ หรับใช้เป็ นส่วนผสมในการผลติ เครื่องสาํ อางโดยเฉพาะ หรือ (3) วัตถุอนื่ ทกี่ าํ หนดโดยกฎกระทรวงใหเ้ ป็ นเคร่ืองสาํ อาง พระราชบญั ญตั ิเครื่องสาอาง พ.ศ. 2558.pdf 20
ปรณิ ดา เตชะศริ ิ ุกูล. เอกสารประกอบการบรรยาย หวั ขอ้ การสรา้ งจรรยาบรรณ กฎหมายเครอื่ งสาอางและการจดแจง้ เครอื่ งสาอาง ตามพระราชบญั ญตั เิ ครอื่ งสาอาง พ.ศ. 2558. Soap, Shampoo, toothpaste, Lip products, cream Soap and shampoo for animals, mosquitoes or lotion for nourishing treatment , hair wave and repellant spray, Botox, dietary supplement for beauty, etc. color products, sanitary pad, hair removal products, alcohol hand rub, etc. 21
Thailand US cosmetics Drug Drug Cosmeceuticals cosmetics Japan Cosmeceuticals Quasi-drug 22
23 https://www.fda.moph.go.th/Herbal/SitePages/Document/law/%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%8D%E0%B8%8D%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%9A%E0% B8%B1%E0%B8%8D%E0%B8%8D%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%A0%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%93%E0%B8%91%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%A3%20%E0%B8%9E.%E0%B8%A8.2562.PDF
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“HERBAL PRODUCTS” DRUGS HERBAL PRODUCTS FOR HEALTH - Thai traditional drugs - Nutraceutical - Cosmeceuticals - Functional food/ - Developed herbal drugs drink - etc. PATIENTS HEALTHY PEOPLE SAFETY & EFFICACY TESTING 25
4. Various Roles of Cosmetic Scientists in the Cosmetic Industry Ingredients supplier Perfumery (flavor & fragrances) Research and Development Manufacturing process Quality Regulatory Cosmetic marketing& business etc. 26
Cosmetic marketing& Research and Development business Manufacturing process Perfumery (flavor & fragrances) Regulatory Ingredients supplier Quality Cosmetic marketing& business 27
Cosmetic Dosage Forms 5. Cosmetic Dosage Forms A dosage form is the final physical form of a mixture of ingredients. Cosmetic dosage forms : any preparations that used as the carriers for cosmetic actives, which are carried and delivered to specified target sites. Appearance Application Physical-chemical system 28
Appearance Most obvious and simple classification Classify by the appearance of the cosmetic preparations Liquid, semisolid and solid forms Liquid; solution, lotion, suspension Semisolid; cream, ointment, paste, gel Solid; Loose powder, compress powder 29
Application Classify by the function of cosmetic use and application site For skin; body lotion, deodorant For hair; shampoo, conditioner, hair spray For nails; polish For mouth; lipstick, mouthwash 30
Physical chemical system Classify by various characterizations of the vehicle criteria - Size of particulates dispersed in the mixtures Dispersion Phase Continuous Phase Name Examples Liquid (Dispersion medium) Aerosol Spray Solid Powder spray Liquid Gas Emulsion Cream/ lotion Liquid/solid Solution Solid Liquid Suspension Toner Liquid Nail enamel Solid Gel Gel 31
Continuous phase 32
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Cosmetic Ingredients 6. Cosmetic Ingredients There are a variety of cosmetic ingredients. Depend on dosage forms or preparations Key Concept Cosmetic Ingredients Cosmetic Dosage form Create product’s concept 34 Design cosmetic dosage form Find cosmetic ingredients which related to its dosage form
Active Ingredients - Synthetic compounds; vitamin C - Natural extracts, turmeric extract, etc. Cosmetic Products Base or Vehicles Additional or Auxiliary Substances - Surfactants - Fragrances - Thickeners - Color - Gelling agent - Preservatives, etc. - Oil phase, water phase, etc. 35
Cosmetic technical term: A word has a specific meaning within a specific field of cosmetics. You not only need the appropriate technical skills but you must also speak the correct technical language. Every industry has its own jargon that you understand. A word is used by a particular profession or group and is difficult for others to understand. 36
Formulate a product using fatty acids from micelle formation and surfactants and use only FD&C dyes. If the product has SPF, make sure it complies with the OTC Monograph, that the ingredient statement uses INCI terminology and that the formula contains no VOCs. Furthermore, check the product for compliance with OTC and FDA regulations and ensure claims support is acceptable, so prepare the MSDS. Can you describe this? 37
Micelle: A spherical conglomeration of surface-active molecules formed in solution. : Polar groups on the molecules align toward the water phase : Non-polar groups point toward the oil or non-polar phase Micelle formation : basis of most emulsification 38
FD&C: Food, Drugs and Cosmetics : The U.S. Food and Drug Administration uses to classify a category of certified dyes used in personal care products. MSDS: Material Safety Data Sheet : This literature was designed to alter workers to potentially hazardous characteristics of a compound. HLB: Acronym for “Hydrophile/Lipophile Balance”. : A system that helped you selected appropriate surfactants for creating stable emulsions. 39
VOC: Volatile Organic Compound. : such as alcohol and hydrocarbon propellants Trade name: Designation a supplier gives a compound For example 1. Trade name: Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer INCI name: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer From Noveon Consumer Specialties 2. Trade name: TweenTM 20 INCI name: Sorbitan Monolaurate From Bioworld 40
Nomenclature Systems 1. Semisystematic method An older naming system Generally used for low-molecular weight compounds 2. IUPAC System Developed by the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry Allowed a greater flexibility in naming complex molecules than the semisystematic method 3. INCI conventions Used simple chemical names whenever possible INCI: International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients 41
INCI system or INCI conventions “INCI” An acronym for International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient A system for naming cosmetic ingredients To standardize the technical names of ingredients found in cosmetics Be taken from common chemical terms therefore may differ from IUPAC’s names for the same alkyl group (see Table 1) 42
Table 1 IUPAC Hydrocarbon Stem Names Carbons IUPAC INCI INCI (main chain) Stem term Fatty acids Fatty alcohols 6 Hexane Caproic Hexyl 7 8 Heptane Heptanoic Heptyl 9 10 Octane Caprylic Caprylyl 11 12 Nonane Pelargonic Nonyl 13 14 Decane Capric Decyl 15 16 Undecane Undecanoic Undecyl 17 18 Dodecane Lauric Lauryl Tridecane Tridecanoic Tridecyl Tetradecane Myristic Myristyl Pentadecane Pentadecanoic Pentadecyl Hexadecane Palmitic Cetyl Heptadecane Margaric Heptadecyl Octadecane Stearic Stearyl 43
A fatty acid is named by identifying the longest carbon chain For example A 12-carbon straight-chain fatty acid IUPAC : Dodecanoic acid INCI : Lauric acid 44
A fatty alcohol is named the molecule’s alkyl portion but replace the IUPAC “ol” with “alcohol” For example A 16-carbon straight-chain fatty alcohol IUPAC : Hexadecanol INCI : cetyl alcohol 45
Branched-chain fatty acids and fatty alcohols follows a convention of adding the prefix “ iso” to the stem name For example A 18-carbon branched-chain carboxylic acid IUPAC : 16-methylheptadecanoic acid INCI : isostearic acid 46
Ethanol : “Specially Denature Alcohols” (SDA) : SDA-40; ethanol denatured with t-butyl alcohol and sucrose octaacetate : SDA 3-A; ethanol and methanol : “Alcohol denat”; refers to denature ethanol using an additive approved by the appropriate member states 47
INCI classification abbreviates colorants according to : - FD&C (Food, Drug and Cosmetics) - D&C (Drug and Cosmetics) - Ext. D&C (External Drug and Cosmetics) FD&C blue no.1 (alternative name :brilliant blue or food blue 2) D&C green no.5 (alternative name : alizarine cyanine green) Ext. D&C yellow no.7 (alternative name : naphthol yellow S) In the EU; be identified in the Colour Index (CI) by an internationally recognized 5-digit code. The CI nomenclature is now being listed by CTFA as an alternate INCI name. - FD&C blue no. 1 : CI 42090 48
INCI Differences Between the US and the EU Botanicals In the US INCI name for botanicals include the Latin binomial (genus and species), the common name of the plant, the plant part, and the type of preparation e.g. Avena saltiva (Oat) Kernel Extract In the EU INCI name for botanicals list only the Latin binomial e.g. Avena saltiva Extract In harmonized INCI name for both markets Simply be the US INCI name e.g. Avena saltiva (Oat) Kernel Extract 49
Fragrance and flavor To mask a particular odor : - the US use Fragrance as INCI labeling names - the EU use Parfum as INCI labeling names To mask a particular flavor : - the US use Flavor as INCI labeling names - the EU use Aroma as INCI labeling names 50
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