TFF MAGAZINE

20 DENIM NEWS 30 DENIM TALKS 62 FROM PRESIDENT’S PEN IAN BERRY / BOSSA / ISKO KIPAŞ DENİM / KMS METALACCESSORIES PINAR TAŞDELEN ENGİN VAV TECHNOLOGY / W DENIM TURKISH FASHION FABRICS APRIL 2018 INTERVIEWS: ÇALIK DENIM YBONE TEXTILE ERA DENIM SELİN AKMAN AMY LEVERTON CRISTIAN MURIANNI LEE COOPER TUKUTUKUM COLIN’S YUNUS & ELIZAAPRIL 2018 N.16YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY Cover design by Piero Turk & Serena Conti





N.16Founder In the name of Creative DirectorUludağ Textile Exporters’ Association (UTIB) Çağrı ÇankayaPınar Taşdelen Engin Berkay ŞahinManaging Director Editor in ChiefBetül Varel Ayça KandemiroğluAdvisory Board Digital EditorOsman Nuri Canik Ali YurtsevenAli Ay TranslationsYusuf Ateş Neslihan YakutHalil Ersan Özsoy Advertising Sales DirectorAslı Türkün Karaçor KALYON MEDYAMustafa Tezyaparlar AddresHaluk Ogan Konak Mh. Lefkoşe Cd. No. 10 D. 14Place of Management Ofis Artı İş Merkezi Nilüfer / BursaULUDAG TEXTILE EXPORTERS’ ASSOCIATION Phone: +90 224 452 10 50Işıktepe OSB Mah. Kahverengi Cad. No: 11 Fax: +90 224 452 10 5416215 Nilüfer - Bursa / Turkey [email protected]: +90 224 219 10 19 Fax: +90 224 219 10 99 www.kalyonmedya.com.trWeb: www.uib.org.tr E-mail: [email protected] PrintProduction Star MatbaaKALYON MEDYA www.starmatbaacilik.com+90 224 452 10 50 4 times a yearPublishing Director Copyright; All rights reserved. No part of the materialBetül Varel protected by this copyright notice may be reproducedPublishing Coordinator or utilized in any form or by any means without writtenAyça Kandemiroğlu permissions from the publisher. TFF Magazine does not take any responsibility for any written content.We are thankful for his supports for the cover art to fashion designers Piero Turk and Serena Conti

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TFF MAGAZINE APRILPINAR TAŞDELEN ENGİN Charmain Of The Board Of Directors Uludağ Textile Exporters’ Association06

PRESIDENT’SMESSAGE“much stronger export“ 07TFF MAGAZINE APRILWe have completed 2017, which we started with the spirit apparel supplier of the continent. We are proud of being oneof cooperation through significant achievements, mainly of the three countries that export the most denim fabrics toproduction, employment, and exports. Our country, reaching the world. As Turkey, we are the 4th largest exporter of homethe highest employment figure in the history of the Republic, textiles in the world with approximately $ 3 billion in homecompleted the year 2017 by exceeding the treshold of 157 textile exports. Our market share in this field is 5 percent.billion dollars export. Our textile industry, which takes place Moreover, getting this share with high-end products is anamong the leading industries of Turkey, has managed to extraordinary success story.increase its exports by 3 percent especially in a year where theworld economy was experiencing great difficulties. While maintaining our competitive position within the world, our primary goals for our firms to take an active and leadingHaving contributed 8.1 million dolars to country’s export last role in new markets. In this context, while developing the R&Dyear, our sector, reaching an export of $ 700 million in the capabilities of our companies; design, branding and effectivefirst month of 2018 with an increase rate of 13.5% has revived marketing strategies will bring the sector’s contribution toour hopes in attaining new targets. I believe that 2018 will be the country’s economy to a higher level. We will continue tocompleted with a much stronger export performance than in support our companies in the international arena by takingprevious years. I once again would like to congratulate all of part in the most important fairs of the world textile industryour companies which contributed to the development of our such as Premiere Vision, with the activities of foreign marketingexports. Textile Exporters Association. Our firms that represented ourWe have superior success in the textile industry, a sector country in the best way in the world until today, will write newwhere competition is very high all over the world. Turkey is success stories with the support we offer, as well as with theirthe largest textile manufacturer of Europe and the 3rd largest production quality and export performance.

TEXWORLD PARIS HELD 11/14 February 2018 The Show organized on 11 – 14 February 2018 at the Le Bourget.08TFF MAGAZINE APRIL Acar Ihr Itl Tekstil Etiteks Teknik Dokuma Meteks Moda Dokuma Kumas Texworld Paris Show organized by Adele Tekstil Fabra Tekstil Meterial Kumas Messe Frankfurt France welcomed ADT Global Tekstil Filetul Tekstil Migiboy Tekstil 13,606 visitors, in other words a very Akdoganlar Tekstil Flokser Tekstil Modapinar Tekstil stable result compared with February Aksoy Tekstil Orme Dokuma Furteks Dokuma Muratoglu Tekstil 2017. Akurun Tekstil Gamateks Tekstil Nara Tekstil Altinsu Tekstil Enerji Gencörme Tekstil Naz Orme Kumas ve Tekstil New visitors came from North Arasan Tekstil Gokhan Tekstil Ölcerler Tekstil America (+7%) and the African Arres Tekstil Görenler Tekstil Ordu Tekstil Boya Apre continent (+26%), led by the countries Arseteks Tekstil Herboy Örme Sanayi Özcimen Tekstil who are major suppliers for Europe Asli Tekstil Giyim HMK Tekstil Özen Mensucat Boya such as Morocco (+25%) and Tunisia ASY Tekstil Ilka Baski Kumas Tekstil Pelle Tekstil (+15%), which came to Le Bourget to ATA Kumas Ipektül ve Konfeksiyon Pinteks Tekstil Kumas carry out their sourcing; in addition Aysan Tekstil Isil Tekstil Reisoglu Iplik Mensucat there were the emerging markets Batmaz Tekstil Joyteks Tekstil Ridvan Ahmedin such as South Bayteks Kabul Tekstil Konfeksiyon Sahin Orme Tekstil BGT Tekstil Karagözlüler Tekstil Sahsa Tekstil Konfeksiyon Africa and Ethiopia, which was the Bordo Tekstil Karinca Tekstil Santana Tekstil guest of honor this season. Botas Nehir Boya Emprime Kazaroglu Tekstil Save Tekstil The shows remain extremely Bozdemir Tekstil Kolunsag Muflon Seçen Tekstil international with 81% of visitors Bünyem Tekstil Kotonteks Textile Industry Seray Tekstil coming from abroad. Burc Kumas Tekstil Insaat Kükrer Tekstil SNT Tekstil Depar Deri Plastik Lale Mefrusat Soylu Örme Kumascilik TOP 5: 3 – Turkey Derhan Tekstil Lami Transfer Starteks Tekstil 1 - France 4 – Spain Diva Kumascilik Tekstil Larma Tekstil Teba Tekstil 2 - United Kingdom 5 - Italy EGR Dis Ticaret Maiteks Tekstil Tekboy Tekstil Ekip Tekstil Marsala Dokuma Tekstas Tekstil Er-Ez Dokuma Kumas Tekstil Masgteks Tekstil Termin Tekstil Ersat Tekstil Menderes Tekstil Türkseven Tekstil Erteks Grup Tekstil Merisa Tekstil Vega Tekstil

TFF Magazine was on display at PREMIEREPress Village of this prestigious Show. VISION PARISPremiere Vision Paris took place 13 to at the heart of15 February 2018 at the Paris Nord- fashionVillepinte. 13/15 February 201854,000 visitors attended the show • The fabric section had 809 09TFF MAGAZINE APRILto discover the collections and new exhibitors of which 95 were Turkishproduct developments proposed by exhibitors 30 of which were from1,725 selected exhibiting companies. BursaThis season, Première Vision Paris • The yarn section had 45 exhibitorspresented 1,725 exhibitors such as in total. 7 exhibitors were Turkishspinners, weavers, accessory makers, and 2 of them were from Bursa.design studios, tanners and furriers, • The leather section had 224fashion manufacturers. Companies companies of which 14 were fromfrom 50 countries, they were Turkey.presenting their latest developments . • The design hall had 216 exhibitors.Professional visitors got latest news • The accessories hall had 296about Turkish textile sector by TFF exhibitors of which 16 were Turkish.Magazine. • The apparel hall had 135 companies of which 29 were from1725 exhibitors from 50 countries Turkey.(1.6% increase over last year) • The tricot section had 24 exhibitorsattended Premiere Vision Paris. of which 2 from Turkey.Turkey was represented by 163 • The Masion D’expectations, veryleading companies in this important exclusive design section had 25venue. Italy had 657 companies, exhibitors.France 254, the UK 112, Spain 82,Portugal 62, Japan 59, South Korea The fair was visited by 54,50045, China 39 and Germany 32. professionals coming from 12032 Turkish exhibitors out of 163 countries.Turkish total were from Bursa.

TFF MAGAZINE APRIL PREMIERE VISION ISTANBUL aallshfaoswhieomnbvoadluyeinsg: quality, innovation and energy! 7/9 March 2018 The successful show was held in Istanbul Congress Center, 7-9 March 2018010 The heart of fashion pulsated at PV Istanbul Show organized with the contribution of Uludag Exporters’ Association (UTIB). Considered as the most respectful fashion fabric fair of the world, Premiere Vision Fair brought textile professionals from all over the world notably from Eastern Europe and Middle East together at Istanbul Congress Center, 7-9 March 2018. Taking the lead in most important fabric fairs of the world and in direct contribution of the textile sector to exports PV Istanbul Fair was supported by UTIB at every stage and stepped forward in the global arena with the members of UTIB. Uludag Textile Exporters’ Association (UTIB) organized International Buyer Mission program and 31 companies from 9 different countries (Albania, Bosnia Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Iran, Kazakhstan, Kosovo, Serbia, Jordan, and Greece) and Press Mission Program 8 press members from 4 different countries (Bulgaria, Iran, Ukraine, and Romania) were hosted. Exhibitors met with the potential buyers. Spring Summer 18 season’s key colors were presented in trend area.

PREMIERE VISION NEW YORK 18/19 July 2018Premiere Vision New York, will be is to claims the succes of Turkish TFF MAGAZINE APRILheld between the dates 18-19 July fashion fabrics producers and2018. Premiere Vision New York and invite professionals to discover theIndigo New York will met with 3000 potential. Visitors will have a chancevisitors at Pier 94.  UTIB continue to discover Turkish culter and getNational participation organizations to know more about Turkey wherein Premiere Vision Shows. their potential clients areUTIB will organize Turkey Country Visit Turkey Lounge and have a 011Lounge with the support of Ministry chance to win a special gift fromof Economy. The aim of the lounge Turkey!

TFF MAGAZINE APRIL INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI APPAREL FABRICS NEWS: 27/29 September 2018 Uludag Textile Exporters Association is continuing national participation organizations at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics show which will be held in Shanghai, 27-29 September 2018.012 Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics is one of the biggest in ready to wear clothing fabric fair. The fair will except visitor for 3 days. Because of its general performance, professional visitors, fair area’s conditions and the fair administration’s service we are expecting a succesful organization. In this edition, UTIB will build a Turkey Country Lounge with the support of Ministry of Economy. The lounge introduced Turkish textile sector and Turkish culture to the China in addition to the concept of the lounge will introduce Turkish Textile sector and Turkish culture to China in addition to the concept of Turkey Discover the Potential.

SOUTH AFRICA 013TFF MAGAZINE APRILready to meetTurkish Mills20/22November 2018UTIB’s goal is to support Turkishmills in international platforms.To accomplish this, UTIB willorganize a national participationto ATF Expo which will be held inCape Town / North Africa,20-22 November 2018.Turkish exhibitors are expectingto meet local professionalvisitors as well as professionalsfrom close regions. Nationalparticipation organization isthe best way to introduceTurkish Fabric producers to African Market. Our goal is to discover this market and help exporters to meet potential buyers. This organization will be good chance to enterAfrican market

utibnews SILKWORM İbrahim Burkay: REWARDS FOUND THEIR “Our exporters OWNERS writes a real success story”TFF MAGAZINE APRIL ‘’Silkworm Export Awards “, organized to reward successful “Our exporters write a exporters by Uludağ Textile Exporters’ Association (UTİB) real success story’’ and Uludağ Apparel and Clothing Exporters’ Association (UHKİB) every year, found their owners. İbrahim Burkay, İbrahim Burkay, who expressed that there is a rarely seen Chairman of Bursa Chamber of Commerce and Industry synchronicity, faith, and synergy that Bursa can reveal (BTSO) said, “I believe that the high exports performance more than it has accomplished so far, said that “We are also obtained in the first 2 months of the new year is also the actualizing our work and projects in the new period with the harbinger of new records.” power we have acquired from this beautiful atmosphere. As BTSO and UTİB, we were able to carry the goals and dreams President İbrahim Burkay, stating that Bursa, with its $ 14 of our Bursa far beyond expectations, with all our projects supporting our recovery moves in the economy ranging from014 billion record exports and additional employment figures product development to employment, from industry, or export exceeding 80 thousand, has managed to become the and economic development. Even in the difficulties in the world economies and in our geography, our exporters who have driving force of Turkey’s economy in 2017, said that,’’in the been working devotedly, have achieved a phenomenal success in order to provide more employment opportunities and to same period, our export amount exceeded 8 billion USD increase our prosperity.’’ while the exports contribution of textile sector increased “SilkWorm Export Rewards” by 3 percent..As UTIB, our contribution to country’s On the other hand, a total of 105 companies were awarded in the field of textile and ready-to-wear in the SilkWorm Export external trade has amounted 1 billion 200 million dollars. I Awards. While Yeşim Selling Shops and Textile Fabrics in Textile Industry. Inc. took the first place, Zorlu Foreign Trade and Fistaş heartily congratulate you all once again for your valuable Foreign Trade Marketing Inc. became the most successful companies. A total of 51 companies in this area were awarded contribution to our country’s goals. I believe that the high for their export success, with gold, silver and bronze awards according to their performances. exports performance obtained in the first 2 months of the new year is also the harbinger of new records.” As UTIB showing the success of exporting to more than 148 countries and regions, our contributions both to city and country’s foreign trade goals will grow apace. As UTİB, which has successfully exported to 148 countries and regions, we hope that your contributions to our city and our country’s foreign trade targets will continue to increase.”.

In the field of Apparel and Clothing, Yeşim Sales Stores and Textile Fac. Inc., EDTReady-to-Wear and Oz Textile Industry shared the first three rankings with thehighest export rate, a total of 54 companies were again awarded with gold, silverand bronze awards for their export performances.Exports Target in Technical Textile 015TFF MAGAZINE APRILis $ 5 billionTurkish Textile and Apparel Sector 10, that is organized in cooperation with UludagTextile Exporters Association (UTİB), Bursa Chamber of Commerce and Industry(BCCI) and Bursa, Eskisehir Bilecik Development Agency (BEBKA), was held in R& D Project Market Summit in Bursa. In the event, organized in the conferencehall of Bursa Textile and Apparel R & D Center (BUTEKOM), successful projectswere also awarded.47 projects are granted an awardIndicating that the project market concept initiated by UTİB is a role model in 30different sectors today, Burkay said, “We have actualized nearly 170 projects fromR & D Project Markets that we started in 2009 to bring together our exporterswith R & D, the public with private sectors, and attract academicians andstudents to the sector..Our goal is to raise technical textile exports from $ 1.7 billionto $ 5 billion “. At the award ceremony, 47 projects in 16 categories were awarded,ranging from defense to aeronautics, to textiles to space industries apart fromcategories like functional textiles, smart textiles, including one of Turkey’s mostimportant export items, which is vehicles and technical textiles for the automotiveindustry and the composites.

FUNRSE /O/WMSNFEURSW/O/SMFNREUSOW/S/M FUNRSE/O/WMSNEFUSRW/SO/ FMNREUOSW/MS/FUNRSE/O/WMSNEUFSRW//SO FMNREUOSW/SM/FUNRSE/O/WMSNEFUSRW/SO/ FMNREUOSW/SM/FUNRSE/O/WMSNEUFSRW//SO FMNREUOSW/SM/FUNRSE/O/WMSNEFUSRW/SO/M BURSA BUSINESS WORLD IS READY TO HELP TURKISH SOLDIERS016TFF MAGAZINE APRIL Bursa business world has taken action after Mr. BURSA’S SIGNATURE TO President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s statement regarding the import reduction as soon as Turkey WORLD’S GIANT COMPANIES increases its production capacity. Mr. İbrahim Burkay, the President of BTSO said that “We have President Burkay expressed that: “World’s giant prepared to produce smart textile and some kind companies such as NASA, Boeing and Airbus of cloths that could cushion during bleeding, take have procured many parts used in their prod- some survival values such as the pulse, stress, ucts from Bursa. Parts and products that Turkish body temperature etc. and could send them to Armed Forces have needed are available in Bursa the centre wirelessly.” and Our companies, providing parts used in some Bursa business world backed up the words of machines produced by the most important com- Mr. President Erdoğan who said that “We would panies of the world could develop the products not import any product, software or system that required by Turkish Armed Forces. In this context, could be designed, produced and developed in Bursa business world is ready to take on the task our own country except in the case of an emer- much more actively for our national and native gency.” Bursa business world, which is brought projects.” Emphasizing that defence industry together under the same roof in the leadership could grow rapidly where the automotive industry of Mr.İbrahim Burkay, the President of the Bur- is very powerful, Mr. Burkay mentioned that Bursa sa Chamber of Commerce and Industry, held a is one of the most important automotive produc- meeting on short notice in order to determine the tion centers in Turkey. Mr. Burkay also stated that needs of Turkish Armed Forces. While the meeting they are ready to meet all the needs of Turkish held by Bursa business world to determine how Armed Forces. to satisfy the needs of the Turkish Armed Forces, Mr. İbrahim Burkay made mention of their move in producing smart and multi-functional military uniforms and equipments for Turkish Soldiers by using Nano- technological, yet smart and func- tional textile and electro-technology.

SHIELDS FOR TURKISH SOLDIERSAiming to increase the speciality of Bursa Technology Coordina- able to be tracked by the command center. Clothes that can secretetion and R&D Centre (BUTEKOM) in military textile, technical textile vitamin and increase body immunity by using nanotechnology andand smart textiles, Mr. Burkay verbalized that BTSO has worked in micro capsulation technologies, will be able to increase function-cooperation with the Undersecretariat for Defence Industries. While alities when combined with this kind of cloth during the militarymentioning that they would improve the cooperation between the operation. Apart from the clothes, some kind of equipment such asinstitutions within the scope of the project called “Nefer”, Mr. Burkay special helmets and monitor systems, night vision systems will becontinued his speech as follows: “Such a fascinating cloth can be able to increase the military capability and security. Now that weproduced that it can cushion during blooding by shrinking auto- are a developed country, it is necessary for our military armies, likematically like a natural cushion. Thanks to the various microsensors the special operations forces to use such kind of equipment. So weon the smart clothes some survival values could be recorded and should create a market for such products. We have worked in coop-observed such as the pulse, stress, body temperature etc., so it eration with the Undersecretaries for Defence Industries. Countrieswould be possible to determine whether the soldiers are in a clash have vital agreements about their future soldiers. We would beof arms or any other state of emergency. Also, these data would be delighted to have the right to voice such issues.’’FOR THE SOLDIERS OF THE FUTUREStating that BUTEKOM became accredited by the international by the sectors such as railway systems, transportation, and TFF MAGAZINE APRILinstitutions in December 2017, President Burkay said that aviation industry will be performed here. This center to be“Advanced Composite Materials Research and Excellence competent for performing all tests on material categorizationCenter will come into operation in June. Thanks to our Textile under the same roof provides savings on time while creatingand Technical Textile Excellence Center, more than 1.200 tests opportunities for our companies in terms of effective resourcein a broad range of composite material technologies will be utilization. Qualification of the researchers will be increased inperformed in this center. All non-combustibility tests required this context.” 017WE PRODUCT OUR HOMELANDRevealing that almost 130 companies and NGOs in Bursa under world, Mr. Burkay said “’Operation Olive Branch’ has an importancethe umbrella of Bursa Chamber of Commerce and Industry have so as to provide innocent civilians’ security in our borders and nearbygiven an unwavering support for the Turkish Armed Forces leading geography by cleaning up the terrorist organization in the regionan operation in Afrin against the terrorist organizations, Mr.Burkay under threat of territorial integrity and border security. Mr. Burkay alsoexplained: The strong economy has provided assurance for Turkey. said, “As Bursa business world representatives and non-governmentalStating that success of the counterterrorism military operation in organizations, we will lay claim to our country with the same unityAfrin, Syria has reflected credit on Turkish economy and developed and solidarity forever and ever; as we did courageously against thetrust and confidence for Turkey and Turkish economy across the treacherous coup attempt on July 15th by banding together.”

FUNRSE /O/WMSNFEURSW/O/SMFNREUSOW/S/M FUNRSE/O/WMSNEFUSRW/SO/ FMNREUOSW/MS/FUNRSE/O/WMSNEUFSRW//SO FMNREUOSW/SM/FUNRSE/O/WMSNEFUSRW/SO/ FMNREUOSW/SM/FUNRSE/O/WMSNEUFSRW//SO FMNREUOSW/SM/FUNRSE/O/WMSNEFUSRW/SO/M SPECIAL EMR Zipper, makes an indeliable impression as a company SOLUTIONS continuously investing in innovation with its experience for many years in the sector. Since the day it was founded, FROM the zippers developed by the company, which produces EMR innovation and solution on a sectoral basis, challenging FOR heavy-handled products. With high strength, visually elegant and comfortable to use zippers, EMR Group crank it HEAVY- up the notch of the quality perception. HANDLED DENIMS018TFF MAGAZINE APRIL Besides the zipper production in the field of denim, the product range of company such as jeans, rivets, leather labels and crutches are also very broad. EMR Zipper, a globally acknowledged supplier to many world ready-to-wear brands, increases its product quality via the principle of respect to nature and the environment. The company’s products, which exhibited in many prestigious fairs that are known globally, are attracting great interest, especially by the producers of denim.

LC WAIKIKI OUTGROWS IN THE GLOBAL SCENE LC Waikiki, whose LC Waikiki appeared in France LC Waikiki is confronted this year with a collection of moto jeans marked the season, 019TFF MAGAZINE APRILmission is ‘’Everyone in 1988, has been a Turkish appliques and patches are used in plenty, contrast prints are used both in the upper brand since 1997. Behind the and lower groups. Jackets with slogans, decorative pigment splashes, plenty of zippered deserves to dress success of LC Waikiki’s global pants and stapled, stoned, pants jackets attract the most. Filthy trouser hems, torn out well’’, plans to image, there lies the philosophy hems, crop pant, motorcycle jacket and over t-shirts are the details and pieces that of ‘’ everyone deserves to stand out again in the collection.The essentials of the summer season, the white denim, launch its products dress well.‘’ LC Waikiki adopts and the white rollers, always have a special place in the LC Waikiki collection. to 50 countries in the vision of becoming one of 2018 by entering Europe’s three most successful The LC Waikiki Casual collection brings together the man who carries denim’s 12 new countries. fashion retailers in 2023 with dynamism and energy into his active life, with the rich tones of blue that is enriched the mission of “making people with light colors and tints during the summer season. Ceramic blueprints, slobs, camo LC Waikiki, with 30 feel good by dressing them in details and bleached denim catch the eye this season. With the patches appear more in stores in Turkey style and budget”. the foreground, it also covers the bottom and top group products. and 120 new stores Denim breezes in LC Waikiki The casual denim that represents a man who lives a social life in the vibrant streetsabroad to be opened, LC Waikiki is gaining customers’ of the city is now stronger with the boldness of black and nobility. In the season when appreciation with denim the green tones are created by the camo patterns, every dense tone of the color can LC Waikiki aims to products, a must-have be seen with the colors that my denim made from the deep sea waters. Every tone of increase the total piece of every wardrobe. LC green can be seen with the colors denim that is formed by the deep water of the sea. In number of stores Waikiki, which carried out LC Waikiki men’s denim collection, Fresh Denim always typical and favored will mark 108,538,145 denim sales since the new season.The denim pants and shirts, which contain almost every color tone, to 1000 and the 2012, offers a wide range of give the season a fresh air.Another favorite color for the season is gray for men who donumber of turnovers products to customers with not want to wear dark as black, and lighter colors. innovative products in denim to 16.2 billion TL. category. Denim is produced in The denim designs that stand out in the women’s group also include a high waist accordance with the European fitter that wraps the body, gives action-free comfort with flexibility and make you Regulations, as in the case of feel the day-long comfort at the top level with soft touching. Super skinny jeans with other LC Waikiki products, while cozy flexible fabrics are leading. As is the case with males, jackets in long and short keeping product safety on the with destroying and in different colors surprise us in women’s denim.Mom jeans and front panel. processed jeans are again among the indispensable for women this year.

Piero TURK BOSSA AW 19-20 Denim Collection When we start every Bossa denim collection we think about cultural trends and influences. We want to fit our denims in the consumers movements and directions. So we create frames covering the different aspects of the denim/ Piero Turk jeans trends. We fill these frames with our ideas, our innovations. This season we divided the collection in 5 groups.TFF MAGAZINE APRIL020MODERN CLASSIC Unisex it’s the word that explains Boyfriend jeans, mom’s jeans, girlfriend completely this concept. Young fits are all fine and our denims can be Original jeans look with scents from 80’s generations don’t want anymore to used for any style. They can also match and 90’s but with modern touch, new dress up with gender codes. They the needs of creative designers to create technologies and innovative contents, want to express themselves in an new and various styles: coats, wide leg keeping the roots in the denim heritage. unconventional and totally free way. pants, jackets. With the denims in this group we want to They don’t want to follow old cultural cover one of the most important trend in stereotypes. the society. BLUE SUEDE MAKE-UP SPORT’N’STRIPES What’s softer, comfortable, cozy than With our creativity, know how and Another big trend in the market is suede? Denims created to be extra soft, technologies we create denims with looking at sport/active garments to warm, ultra stretch. Wearing jeans huge variety of colors, shades, washing express fashion. made with these innovative fabrics effects. gives a feeling of relax and well being. Performing fabrics, colors, loose Soft fiber blends, brushed effects, high Special dyeing methods, coatings, constructions, they are used for a elasticity, new technologies are our key overdye can develop a never ending common way to dress up. points. color stream. And we develop denims to fit in this Tencel, modal, new hollow fibers, new Jeans are not just and only blue! With fashion area. Denims that can easily be spinning and weaving technics, all Bossa you can play with no limits. useful to for sport looking garments. together have the purpose to develop the most comfortable denims. KEEP IT CLEAN Sustainability, clean production processes, reduce wastage of water and energy, not polluting, recycle, reuse, are all concepts in our DNA. Recycled cotton, recycled fibers, new dyeing technologies, post-consumer reuse, organic cotton, ecological and natural dyes. Probably the widest, complete and interesting offer that can be found in the denim market. Since many years we work seriously and deeply in this important field. Our commitment is to “do our part” to “keep our planet clean”.

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022TFF MAGAZINE APRIL J‘N‘C ROUNDTABLE AMSTERDAM BETTER DENIM FOR A BETTER FUTURE To kick off the Kingpins Show in Amsterdam the specialist magazine J‘N’C hosted second  roundtable discussion with YBONE textile contribution on 17 APRIL 2018 in the A’DAM Toren. Among those at the table discussing topics like the future of denim, sustainable denim production and Turkey as a manufacturing location, were key players of the Turkish textile industry, among them Baykanlar, Orta Anadolu, Calik and Bossa Denim, UTIB Association as well as brands and branch representatives from Scandinavia. During the lively discussion it was soon clear what a key role sustainability and fair trade will play in the future, and how the fast-paced technological developments will increasingly define this aspect of fashion production. You can read up on the highlights of the stimulating and informative talks in the latest edition of J‘N’C, with a special focus on sustainable fashion: on your newsstands from June 26. 



TFF MAGAZINE APRILIAN’S SECRET GARDENIAN WORK WITH DENIM024 Ian Berry, who has been working in Denim for a long while, repositions Denim as a work of art thanks to his 3-dimensional designs. Ian, reinterpreting Denim as an artistic work through distinct wash methods, is portraying contemporary life and issues in his works. Ian, who wanted to be an artist as a young boy but was pushed away in the late teens by those who said there is no career and life in art, did not leave the path he believed.

In the New York Children’s Museum, Ian, who organizes workshops for children’s with denim materials, describes the museum as such: ‘’The museum is a brilliant place, I wish I had something like the place when I was growing up. The ChildrensHe necessitates for everyone to Museum of New York have work When asked about his mainchase after their dreams and has rooms with all the equipment inspirers while designing thisa recommendation for the push- for children to experiment and garden, he resplies as follows:aways, ‘’don’t go poisoning young working artists on hand to I exposed it because of children, Also thinking of the kids in New York,minds with your own fears’’. Ian, help. They also always have to seeing it through their (and the many wouldn’t have their own gardens.who believes that it is important to professional exhibitions on, by top parents) eyes. Thinking of their I wanted to draw attention to thetell and help kids see the arts can artists. While mine goes on I show safety, and enjoyment but always great community gardens hiddenlead to good careers and options, with Ellen Harvey, many of my through their little eyes. Thinking between the buildings all over thethinks that denim is a pretty cool other favourite artists have shown of my childhood in my garden, and city. Perhaps the parent could takematerial what kids are familiar there and its great children can be the woods, compared to many them afterward to see, and compare towith and connect with more fun exposed to the work – and do work today glues to the ipads and other mine!B E R RYtimes(awayfromschooluniform). inspiredbyit. digital devices. I also found it interesting, from an education point 025TFF MAGAZINE APRIL of view, that I was making something that was made from a plant, back into plants. When asked about how he carries out his team and works together, He replies as: ‘’I had a fairly large team on this one, from professional help with the likes of Tonello from Italy, a specialist Italian tech company who make the machines for the different laundries around the world – with specialist eco- friendly practices.

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I used these in the work to ‘wash’ the denim,but I also used their laser machines to cutthe vines for the trellis.I also had the help of Cone Mills who donatedthe denim from white Oak, a factory in theUSA that had just closed down. It was thelast one to close down in the USA. Then a lotof the rest were volunteers. Who all cameand helped put things together from makingplants and flowers to doing photographerand illustrator skills.’’Ian revealing his thoughts on working with this that is what makes the material that 027TFF MAGAZINE APRILchildren says that: ‘’I didn’t make this with creates jeans.I hope they can look at naturethe children, but for them. I will do some differently, they are looking and plants, justthings in future with them however. I did in denim, I hope they go outside and re lookalways make it with them in mind and that at the plants, and the world around them. Iis why I made it simpler than I may have hope the parent seems them enjoying beingdone, so they can have a go at making some in the garden, and perhaps takes them outof the things.I have done some other things more to them. New York has great openwith kids in the past and sometimes you are spacesamazed with the bit of help what they cando, and others dismayed how easy they can Regarding his future projects, Ian givesgive up. But always by then end they are some tips: ‘‘I’m working on many, includingsurprised at what they could have created’’. a portrait project, but they will all be revealed in future and on ianberry.art.‘‘Ian, whom we asked, what would havebeen different for him if he would turnback to 10, replies as follows: ‘‘I justwent back to my high school yesterday forthe first time in 18 years, I left in 2000. Itwas a strange experience. Both good andbad. I told the kids they had to believe inthemselves and that no one owes themanything and the buck ends with them. Theyare responsible for their futures and hardwork counts. What I want to tell kids is thatno one is more special than anyone else, noone just suddenly was good at somethingand rose to the top. Hard work is importantbut the belief in yourself and if you want todo something, do it, don’t just talk about.Everyone has good ideas. Only a few can putthem into action.’’With Secret Garden Project we tried toshowcase so that children can be inspiredby what materials as unusual as they are,can be made in to art. There is the recyclingelement, there is the amazed look when theysee the cotton plant and they are told it is

TFF MAGAZINE APRIL ISKO One of Sanko Holding’s companies in the textile BRINGS industry, İSKO™, remains the world leader in INNOVATION denim production. Making a name for itself TO DENIM through its collaborations with leading brands MARKET that shape the world fashion, İSKO™ grows through R&D and innovation investments.028 Starting production in 1904 on a handloom, and growing up to be a giant in the textile industry in five generations, İSKO™ has also become a business partner for global brands. Sanko Holding Board of Directors Member Fatih Konukoğlu says as he sums up İSKO™’s success, “The secret to this success is a robust market research as well as a strong and effective R&D effort. Today, with over 20-patented products and over 80 trademarks we are the world’s most innovative premium denim company. With an annual denim fabric production capacity of 250 million meters, production facilities of 300 thousand square meter and 35 sales offices across the world, İSKO™, is the most important premium denim fabric producer in the world.” İSKO™, which started its R&D efforts in 1996, has over 95 personnel, all expert researchers and technicians in basic sciences and engineering, dedicated to this field. İSKO™ stands out in the sector with its Technology Development division set up in 2013 by hiring people with doctorate degrees in physics, chemistry and biology in order to take its R&D activities to the next level. This can be considered a first for the textile industry.

Offering concepts supported by technology to its customers, İSKO™ also helpsimprove the value of the brands as well as products. In that regard, İSKO™’scollaborations with leading fashion brands (Diesel, Replay, Barbour, Liu Jo, Guess,Jbrand) make its name globally known. In particular, İSKO™’s “Jogg Jeans” incollaboration with Diesel, and “Hyperflex” in collaboration with Replay bringgreat excitement and energy to the denim world. An innovative product createdby the joint efforts of İSKO™’s R&D unit and expert teams researching globalclothing industry, JEGGINGS™ offers a highly elastic, super skinny denim fabricfor womenswear and it is still İSKO™’s best-selling product group. JEGGINGS™technology, which is also included in Oxford English Dictionary, stands out as anİSKO™ trademark in Europe. Developed in 2008, JEGGINGS™ trademark shinesas the top product of all textile brands.“ Today, we are the most“ innovative premium denim company in the world One of the most important breakthroughs of 029TFF MAGAZINE APRIL İSKO™, “İSKO FUTURE FACE™” was also registered to European Patent Office in May 2015. This product is known as the vanguard of “athleisure” trend and İSKO™ is the only producer of this product group as the sole proprietor of its patent. İSKO BLUE SKIN™ and İSKO ARQUAS denote the latest achievements in denim innovation. İSKO BLUE SKIN™ is the first four-way stretch denim fabric in history. A new favorite for the brands, this concept is starting to make its way into the collections of the brands with its latest super stretch fabric. Bringing denim and sportswear together, ARQUAS™ also marks a significant innovation for the industry. İSKO™ aims to continue its trailblazing innovations in the denim market and remain in its position as the world leader.

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KIPAS DENIMTFF MAGAZINE APRIL032What do you think about how do the future mega trends affect the Denim World? How is your company preparing for this situation? Murat ARIÖZ Kipaş Denim Sales and Marketing Director Actually biggest effect comes from the nature itself. Like many other industries, denim - with old fashion production mentalities – effecting the environment very much. Starting from cotton fields to end user water usage increased to incredible levels. Our responsibility start here to control and lower any undesired result. We are investing hard for creative solutions with our INNOCENCE concept. This is getting bigger and bigger every day. Starting with the right selection of raw material, decreasing water and chemical usage, we combine our knowledge and passion. Each collection becomes more and more sustainable. Besides market is now demanding value added products without compromising nature-industry balance. We are also stepping very careful about cost efficiency, as this is the one of the most important point for sustainability. Customers are looking for side benefits rather than covering their body. Jeans increasing its position both on commodity and luxury part. We are and will be more careful where to step next. We are KIPAS, we are working with nature.

KMS METAL ACCESSORIESWhat do you think about how do the future We are able follow international fashion trends and can implementmega trends affect the Denim World? How is your the latest technologies and innovations to our business. As acompany preparing for this situation? result of this opportunity we can easily supply the requests of our customers.“KMS Kılıçoğlu” makes 80% production for denim sector. Monthly Within the changing, globalizing and more urbanized world order, 033TFF MAGAZINE APRILproduction of about 100 million metal accessories and Turkey are the denim sector is also progressing towards producing Jean whichalso among the leading European firm and our goal is to become is more suitable for city life and more convenient casual wear. Inone of the leading companies worldwide in Europe and beyond. addition, the sector is moving towards a direction where it is more nature-friendly and recycling becomes more important, protectingWe produce all kinds of metallic accessories and automatic nature more. In this trend, we focus more on nature-friendly metalriveting or binding machineries for textile, leather, shoes, bag, tent, products, especially painted products, to develop natural paintedcurtain and canvas sectors under KMS Accessories and Kılıçoğlu and environmentally friendly products.Machinery brands. Our product range includes metal buttons, snapfasteners, eyelets, rivets, drops, metal labels, nails, zippers, andsome special metallic accessories.With the motivation that we provide from this strength and thecomfort of the local brand awareness; we’re now exporting to 30countries mainly in Europe, North Africa, Middle East, East Europe,Russia and Middle Asian Republics. We continue to conduct ourstudies in order to expand our brands to new markets. Güneş CananSales &Marketing Manager

VAV TECHNOLOGY What do you think about how do the future mega trends affect the Denim World? How is your company preparing for this situation?TFF MAGAZINE APRIL034Green and clean sustainable denim production is the latest trend Mr. KUMBARACI explained the new Da Vinci Spray Robots for the in Denim Industry. A Turkish company achieved a first in No Hand problems in wet (spray) processes. He underlined that these robots Touch finishing technologies for Denim Industry. VAV Technology were not only produced to increase the quality and efficiency of Company developed high-tech PREDATOR laser machines, Eraser production but to minimize health and environment problems Brush Robots and Da Vinci Spray Robots for sustainable and No stemming from the textile production. He especially stressed that Hand Touch production. it is everyone’s social responsibility to create and protect a healthy New Predator laser machine equipped with revolutionary Never environment and VAV Technology is trying to do its best. Ending Power laser tube and innovative F- HDR software. You can reduce the running cost of the machine with Neverending Mr. KUMBARACI pointed that the leading and prestigious denim power laser tubes. F- HDR Software supply, No Hand Touch denim producers are using VAV Technology machines and he talked production. No Stone Wash, No PP, No Hand Scraping. about the good news in Research and Development studies for The Company’s Vice President Mr. Aydin KUMBARACI informed us new Sustainable Production systems for denim producers. VAV about VAV Technology’s products: Technology provides solutions to all problems in denim production Mr. KUMBARACI stated that VAV Technology Company’s aim was with its Predator Lasers, Eraser Brush Robots, Technoflow, Ozone to solve remaining problems in production through high technology. and Spray Robots. He also stated that the Company’s only purpose was not being a Mr. KUMBARACI finally stated that “we do not want to be a production focused organization but most importantly to protect machinery producer merely, we would like to be a company the environment and human health, therefore, we focused on No producing services and creating values. Beside this, our purpose Hand Touch sustainable denim production technologies. is to be the first address for all denim producers in solving their production problems”. Mr. KUMBARACI mentioned the airborne particles and dust problems in dry processes are a very big issue for human health besides quality consistency when manually doing Moustache, Rodeo, and hand scraping. The Company’s solution to these problems is the Predator laser Machines with F HDR Software. Mr. KUMBARACI: “In denim production, some chemicals like resin Aydın Kumbaracı and permanganate, are manually sprayed out on the products. Vice President This dangerous process is damaging the quality of the product as well as the workers’ health and environment. With the Da Vinci Robots developed by VAV Technology, human health and the environment are protected and companies’ quality and efficiency problems are solved. While decreasing chemical consumption, these systems achieve a real sustainable production and protect human health”.

W DENIMWhat do you think about how do the futuremega trends affect the Denim World? How is yourcompany preparing for this situation?It is estimated that denim market in the US will expand rapidly in In addition to this, because of rapidly changing consumer TFF MAGAZINE APRILthe next decade which will have direct positive effects across the preferences and increased awareness of the consumers, theglobe in our sector. This foreseen growth is a result of casual wear important players in the sector become more competitive to betrends and consumers shift from Athleisure to denim products. able to provide good quality, comfort and the right style at a right price.Among the latest trends of the market, there are private/customized denim production and online merchandising. If we take At this point we read the change and do a serious process analysis.a look at the private labels at Amazon, it is true that 87% of private As a result of these, our goal is always to prepare a collection thatlabels are made up of clothing, shoes and accessory categories. will meet all consumer expectations. 035 Ali Can KurtSales &Marketing Manager US

TFF MAGAZINE APRILINTERVIEW Çalık Denim, which is among the top 10 companies in the Çalık Denim Factory production of premium denim and R&D Director fabrics, celebrates its 30th Ahmet Serhat anniversary this year. As TFF Karaduman Magazine, we have talked about R & D investments and future ÇALIK vision of the company with Çalık DENIM IS Denim Factory and R&D Director 30 YEARS Ahmet Serhat Karaduman. OLD Çalık Denim, allocates about 2% of the turnover in R&D036 investments, is also proud to have the only Denim R & D center 3wsu0itchywithstateapproval.

Would you briefly introduceyourself?I was born in Muş in 1972. I graduatedfrom Selçuk University with a Bachelor’sdegree in Mechanical Engineering andgot my Master’s degree in ManagementOrganization at Çukurova UniversitySocial Sciences Institute. I stepped intobusiness life as a weaving engineerin GAP Güneydoğu Textile company in1996, previously known as Çalık Denimunder Çalık Holding. Then, I worked inTurkmenistan Textile Group as Weaving,Dyeing and Product Development Manager.In 2013, I was assigned to Çalık Denim asR&D Manager in Malatya. And I have beenworking as a Factory and R&D Directorsince 2014. Being Factory and R&D Director at the same time is important to 037TFF MAGAZINE APRIL underline that innovation and production ischyceefausrsllsofinseperableforus…

INTERVIEW Çalık Denim aims to increase its market share in the world from Çalık Denim, which is among 5 percent to 10 percent by 2020. the top 10 companies in the Would you briefly tell us about production of premium denim the works carried out in this fabrics in the world, celebrates context? its 30th anniversary this year. What are the effects of R&D Since the first day of Çalık Denim department in succeding Çalık established, investments have always Denim? been very important to us. As a premium denim fabric producer with 30 years ofTFF MAGAZINE APRIL038We are entitled to open the seventh R & experience, we owe our current position in D center in textile industry of Turkey with the global market to both our employees, the certificate we received in 2011. We who are part of our family and the have become a center of science that will investments we have made in R & D and reflect our deep-rooted knowledge in the innovation. industry through R & D studies and new technologies. We owe our achievements We will continue to invest in this direction in value-added denim production to to increase our market share in the investments in R&D and innovation. When upcoming periods. Technology is the most we look at it numerically, we allocate about important cornerstone in our development. 2% of our turnover for R&D investments. We do not fixate our research to just We owe the value-added fabrics we have denim or fabric in the R & D center. We are developed to the advanced technology conducting research on “Advanced Textile infrastructure. We have invested $ Products” in the center where over 40 140,000,000 between 2010-2017. The engineers are located. We keep working target investment rate between 2018 and on a much wider field of nanotechnology, 2021 is going to be $ 95,000,000. By 2020 intelligent fabrics, different functionalities. we will increase our capacity by 60 million meters and increase our global market In addition to such products developed share by 10%. Çalık Denim has the only denim through R & D investments, we are also carrying out many business associations Collaboration projects are really important R & D center with state approval. and projects in order to improve our to move brands further. Our aim is to business processes, to make more efficient create “Çalık Denim” quality and trust to Çalık Denim also works on production and contribute to academic the end-consumer through our fabrics life. We are enriching our R & D activities which we have developed with our new technologies in denim internationally. To sum up, investments innovative technologies. For this reason, we have made in this field and R & D work we are collaborating both with brands and production. Would you explain we have carried out in this regard, along universities - especially those teaching with the importance we have given to fashion and design. about your works and innovative development and innovation in all our processes, contribute greatly to the “Çalık products you offer to the sector? Denim” brand at the end of the day.. . As a company that stands out with its innovative and solution producing products in the denim industry, we brought new breath to the industry with the concepts such as Oxygene, Elastech, T-Power, Red Carpet, Fly Jean and Smart Stretch. With these concepts, we found solutions to problems that could not be solved in the industry before…

What will be the future disciplines, making continuous trend on is Smart Stretch. Recently, the fashionexpectations of Denim Market trips. This is actually one of our most industry has become more open to thein the world in general and in important missions ... And trends, even notion of being at ease with ourselves.Turkey in specific? Do you align though a self-repetitive cycle in certain It’s not only about being thin and fitthese expectations in your periods, it has to adapt to the new it is in anymore… There has been a wake-research work? existence and to meet the expectation of up call for the trend, and Calik Denim the people of this period. concentrated on this plus size trend whichThanks to our large and experienced team At this point, our R & D works are gaining is increasingly becoming more importantof R & D and P&D we are often predicting importance. To exemplify through the and also employ new technologies tothe trends by feeding on different technologies we developed, while super make its customers and end-users lives easier. Embracing the concept of curves stretch jean demand was on the rise, the as opposed to thinness, Calik Denim’s 039TFF MAGAZINE APRIL open-end look jeans started to become Smart Stretch was developed both for very fashionable. With this demand of comfort and style, suiting all body shapes the industry, Calik Denim has developed including plus sizes, which the fashion D’enovated concept in SS’18 season. Now, industry now recognises exists! Using it is one of the remarkable concepts of the new technologies to increase its holding SS’19 collection with its updated features. power and help it keep shape, Smart New fabrics have an authentic look with Stretch works to enhance both slim and distinctive twill lines combined with the curvaceous figures. Before, the waist advantages of today’s technologies and and knee areas were compressed but upgraded to create a 3D effect every time now with the new added Smart Stretch they’re washed. What makes the Concept technology, the fabric knows exactly stand apart among its kind fabrics is that where to stretch and where not. This they are smooth, bright and have no itchy ‘smart’ technology shapes and reveals or fuzzy feel. Comfort and style blend as curves where it is needed. On the other one. hand, recently, people have been seeking Another technology that we concentrated to be comfortable as well as being chic in their daily lives. Furthermore, the most of the time they want to go everywhere in sports clothes. Even in the offices.. This demand is also increasing by Millenials entering our lives. When it comes to being comfortable and chic we met “athleisure”. And we couldn’t stop without introducing this trend with the denim industry by creating athlejean story. The concept is a new breath in the industry with its outstanding features. As the concept offers impossible lightness, exceptional flexibility and creamy softness, Fly Jean is the perfect fit for the athleisure style… In summary, we are carrying out our activities with international cooperation by ensuring the integration of intelligent systems in all our organizations and processes in order to move our technological sub-production to a level where we can respond to all possible requests for the future periods that are expecting to become increasingly difficult.

INTERVIEW ““IF TURKISH TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY SEEKS TO MAINTAIN ITS COMPETITIVE POSITION IN FUTURE, IT SHOULD GIVE SOME THOUGHTS TO SUSTAINABILITY.ROMAIN040 ERA GARMENT GENERAL MANAGERTFF MAGAZINE APRILWhat kind of works or developments Era NARCY Garment is doing about this topic? With Era Garment we have talked about the ongoing innovations in the Sustainability is a long road having many directions. We started to sector and the sustainability works that work on sustainability in 2013 by using fabrics with organic content were carried out so far. Referring to the for a French brand. Then in 2014, we develop a project with our main utmost importance of sustainability customer to use denim fabrics with high recycle content of Cotton in the world of Denim, Era Garment & Polyester. The pants to be recycled were collected in France & General Manager Romain Narcy has transformed into recycled yarns in France too. Then the yarns were also given special emphasis to the sent to a Turkish mill for weaving. Once we got the fabric, we realized global position of such works. the final products. At that time, the limitations were physical as we had to use a thick yarn, making a Cotton/Polyester finished fabric weighting around 13.50OZ & without Elastane - due to technical limitations no recycled yarns with elastane were available these days. This program continued for a couple of years, keeping the weight & fabric composition but changing the indigo shades in collaboration with the customer & denim mill.   In 2017, we went one step further by getting certified for OCS (Organic Content Standard). In 2017 too, we decided to prepare ourselves for GOTS certification (Global Organic Textile Standard) & in January 2018 we applied & received the certificate. The main difficulty for a denim garment manufacturer to be GOTS certified is that the full production cycle has to be reviewed from fabrics - trims - sewing - washing processes & finish.   We developed an expertise in the sourcing of sustainable fabrics & now the next step in to be sustainable of the washing side. So, for 2018 our biggest project is a sustainable washing plant that would allow us to use 1 liter of water/garment instead of the average 70 liters of water/garment seen today in the industry. Its capacity would be of around 100.000pcs/month.   In addition, ERA has been involved in the Denim Alliance based in Amsterdam since its first meeting in 2017, the aim of this NGO is to increase the use of recycled fibers in denim garments. Brands, mills, garment makers are involved in this project (https://www.denimalliance.org)

How important it will be to make denimworld more sustainable in the future?Cotton & polyester make up over 80% of all global fiber production. In 2015, 55 million tons of cotton and polyesters wereproduced… The same year 53 million tons were put in landfills around the world…First thing is to produce sustainable fabrics without Virgin fibers but recycled ones. As of today, they are no completely suitablesolutions for using entirely recycled fabrics. I also believe that if we want sustainable fabrics to replace virgin ones, they shouldhave the below qualities: > Same quality level as virgin fibers > Process to recycle them should be environmentally friendly > Cost competitive – as mass consumers are not ready to pay a premium for sustainable garments How are these studies going on in the world?It seems that International brands are starting to get aware of the damages their productioncaused to our environment. Big companies such as C&A or H&M are now financing researches &institutes on sustainability. The names coming first to my mind are CIRCLE ECONOMY (https://www.circle-economy.com) 041TFF MAGAZINE APRIL ; FASHION FOR GOOD ( https://fashionforgood.com) in Amsterdam and the ELLEN MACARTHUR Foundation (https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org)They are also important conference such as Copenhagen Fashion Summit (https://copenhagenfashionsummit.com) taking place on a yearly basis & specialized on sustainability in thefashion business. I feel Turkey & especially our sector has to take concrete actions, I would love to see our exporterassociations pushing us in this direction and that the roundtables we are organizing on our own should beput in a strategy at a sector level.Some Turkish companies are innovative on sustainability at their level but they are no coordinated actionsto bring the whole sector to a higher level. The Turkish Textile & ready-made garment sector has to wakeup & come together on this matter if we want to stay competitive in the future.

TFF MAGAZINE APRIL INTERVIEW AMY LEVERTON042 Denim Dudes Amy Leverton has been working in the denim industry since 2003; for four years as a denim and casual wear designer and the last 9 years in trend forecasting and consultancy. She has worked for the two world’s leading trend forecasting sites; WGSN and Stylesight, heading up the denim and youth departments at both companies. In June 2015, after the launch of Denim Dudes, she registered her company in Los Angeles, California where she currently lives and works as an industry consultant. Her clients include Levi’s, Kingpins and Vivienne Westwood.

Pls describe what denim & jeans means for you? 043TFF MAGAZINE APRILDenim and jeans mean timelessness, versatility,history and future. What is your expectations for the future denim?Well there are many future fabric developments outthere and I do get excited about the technologicaladvancements such as new stretch technologies,moisture wicking denims, water resistant qualitiesand everything that comes with exploring thefuture denim possibilities but to be serious for asecond I feel like the true future of denim needs tobe a fully sustainable one. All the research that iscurrently going into recycling, water control and amore sustainable future has to hold the real futureof denim because unfortunately we cannot goon making more and more and not suffering therepercussions. Denim dudes, denim dudettes and whats next?I am now working on Denim Dens (working title)and this will track the homes, interiors, studios andstores of the global denim industry. I will be settingthis book out slightly differently and arranging itin order of the denim lifecycle: from manufacturerthrough to end product and back again. I am alsoworking on Diddy Denimheads. If you had another chance what you would be your career? Do you have another passion for your life?I probably would have gone into acting as I am atotal showoff and at 18 I had to decide betweenfashion and drama and I chose fashion. Not sorrythough!

TFF MAGAZINE APRILYour favourite brands? Designers? Acne has always been an inspiration and their new Blå Konst line is fantastic. I am always on the lookout for new talent so I’m not going to talk about age-old brands. The brands I am currently into are Lorod, MSBHV, Filles A Papa, Bode. Pls explain how did you inspired to write those books? And what you get out of it?044 The people, most certainly. Our industry is all about community and I feel very proud to be a member of that community and have the opportunity to shed some light on the unsung heros. I am mostly inspired by what people wear and how they style denim in a multitude of different ways so the idea was to document that. What I have gained is the same as my readers: inspiration! When I would get photos in from the various shoots around the world, the inspiration and excitement would give me goosebumps. Its lovely that Dudettes is finally out so I can share that inspiration with everyone.

Your favourite jean? 045TFF MAGAZINE APRILI have a vintage open end 1980’s pin-up jean Ibought on my first trip to Tokyo in 2008. Unknownbrand, not at all collectible or rare but everyonecompliments me on it and so its rare to me. Your favourite city/place?I guess Tokyo but I do love Bangkok! And of coursemy new hometown, LA. And what you want to say about Turkish denim industry?The Turkish industry is actually very uniquebecause you have a thriving, scaled and workableindustry. If you think about Japan, Italy or Americait still exists but its niche and high end only. Othercountries which I feel uncomfortable naming arethriving but for the lower end markets, so are theytruly sustainable or to be celebrated? Some of thefactories are but not the markets as a whole. Turkeyis in the middle: its workers are treated fairly andpaid a decent wage and they can afford to buy thejeans they make. There are artisans and expertsand there is a respect for craft but there is also agrounded, every day approach. I think in actual fact,Turkey has a very rare responsibility to addresstheir industry as a litmus test on how to makemass production work in the most sustainable waybecause the Turkish denim scene is ‘real life’ if thatmakes sense.

TFF MAGAZINE APRILINTERVIEW With Kipaş Holding Vice Chairman and Turkey Lee Vice Chairman of Kipaş Holding Cooper Chairman Ahmet Öksüz, and Chairman of Lee Cooper Turkey we talked about Lee Cooper’s President of İTHİB journey in Turkey, their 2018 goals, and the new markets they AHMET ÖKSÜZ want to take place in future.046 First of all, can we know more about you and Kipaş Holding, occupying an important place in denim industry both in Turkey and in the World? Kipaş Holding was founded in 1984 in Kahramanmaraş and today we have facilities in 6 main sector Textiles, Cement, Paper, Energy, Agriculture and Education and 25 different companies. We have more than 8000 employees and over 1 billion $ turnover annually. Textile is an important sector for us and Kipaş Textiles is one of our biggest company and our investment in denim side is increasing year by year. This year we are doubling our denim production capacity starting in May.

You incorporated Lee Cooper to Company’s TFF MAGAZINE APRIL structure. How did the idea of switching to retail“ come about? What were the goals you aimed with this investment? Lee Cooper is the oldest denim brand in Europe. It was founded in 1908 in England. We were producing for Lee Cooper and we had an offer from them to be the licensee of the Brand. Comparing production, Brand Management and retail is totally different sector. It has been 7 years now and we learned how to manage it.WORLD FAMOUS BRAND,LEE COOPER’S 047JOURNEY IN TURKEY Do you mind to share Lee Cooper’s retail goals? How was 2017 for you? What is your target of turnover and growth at the end of 2018? At the end of 2017 we reached over 200 sale points. We sell over 1 million pieces annually. We will continue to grow in 2018. We are targeting 30% growth every year. “ oLwevoeerrCld6ow0opicdeoeruonpterireastes

TFF MAGAZINE APRILINTERVIEWHow many stores does Lee Cooper have now? Which048 cities do you offer services in your country and abroad? Lee Cooper operates over 60 countries worldwide. Our territory is Turkey and CIS Countries. You are one of the largest fully integrated textile companies in Turkey. You always keep technology on the forefront. Would you please open up our horizons about new technologies developing especially in the field of denim? Efficiency and sustainability are the most important thing. Thats why we are following new technologies and techniques as well to be more respectfull to nature. Also we are working on the new techniques to reducing the harmful to environment with considering the quality level increasing. Especially on denim producing water and chemical using is very high. Our new technique ‘Zero Water Indıgo Dyeing’ minimize the water and chemical use. Additionally it provides electricity saving. Zero Water process is completely Kipaş Project and we focusing to produce all of our denim fabrics with Zero Water Process.

Do you perform production in Turkey? “ CyWa%eno3eado0rhpw.ageevrroeaswar2elt0eht0aperoLvgieeneerttysing 049TFF MAGAZINE APRIL Would you mind to explain your design team? “We produce all products in Turkey. Ourdesign team work very closely with theheadquarter in London. We use the designcombination of London and Turkey. Are there any target markets in which you expect to take place in the future to expand Lee Cooper’s sales network?We have new projects to expand our sales.Lee Cooper London wants us to develop newmarkets. I think in 2018 there will be newcountries. Can you give us information about Lee Cooper’s export potential?Currently, we export LeeCooper to Poland, Marocco,Azerbaijan and Russia.There will be new marketsin 2018.

INTERVIEW JEAN’S DYNAMIC AND YOUNG BRAND: COLIN’S, serving with over 600 shops in 38 countries of the world, aims to be one of the most preferred jean-centric fashion Global Sales and brands in the world through the brand experiences concurrently Marketing Director reaching to the speed of youth in strategic markets until 2020. We have recently conducted an enjoyable interview with Önder Ön, Colin’s Global Sales and Marketing Director, whom we have asked about the global sales network and the brand philosophy, about buying behaviors of consumers of denim market. Would you please tell us Colin’s brand story and it’s philosophy?TFF MAGAZINE APRIL COLIN’S was founded by Eroğlu Group in Istanbul in 1983. It grew rapidly right after its first store that was opened in 1986. Today we continue to work globally with more than 600 stores in 38 countries of the world, including Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, Romania, and Georgia. Our mission is to provide youth more and more jean-centric fashion products by enjoying their life more. Our vision is to be one of the most preferred jean-focused fashion brands through the brand experiences concurrently reaching to the speed of youth in strategic markets until 2020.050