Yunnan MEKONG TRAVELl Issue #1

TRAVEL 旅游 ARTS 艺术 CULTURE 文化 Cover Story 封面故事 Yunnan – China’s Gateway to the 云南—中国通往大湄公河次区域的门户 Greater Mekong Sub-Region 旅游重点 Destination Highlight 西双版纳—中国的热带天堂 Xishuangbanna - China’s Tropical Paradise 艺术文化 Arts, Culture & Heritage 山中杰作—香格里拉的黑陶、木碗和唐卡 Mountain Masterpieces - Nixi Pottery and the Amber Bowl 民俗风情 Festivals & Lifestyles 彝族火把节—与火狂欢 The Yi Torch Festival - Playing with Fire 绿色之旅 Green Travel 老挝的一抹新绿 Laos’ New Shade of Green Cover photo by Suthep Kritsanavarin Inaugural Issue 2011.01 Baht150 / US$5 / ¥15



TRAVEL 旅游 ARTS 艺术 CULTURE 文化 Inaugural Issue | Jan/Feb 2011 | Issue #1 CONTENTS 3 GREETINGS FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 国外出版人寄语 4 DATELINE GMS+ 大湄公河纪事 6 COVER STORY 封面故事 Yunnan - China’s Gateway to the Greater Mekong Sub-Region | by Justin Kiersky 云南 — 中国通往大湄公河次区域的门户 10 DESTINATION HIGHLIGHT 旅游重点 Xishuangbanna - China’s Tropical Paradise | by Justin Kiersky 西双版纳 — 中国的热带天堂 14 PROFILE 机构简介 Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle, Chiang Rai | by Edward Carter 金三角四季豪华帐篷度假村 18 INTERVIEW 人物专访 Man of the Mekong: An interview with Mason Florence 梅森•佛罗伦斯专访 20 ARTS, CULTURE & HERITAGE 艺术文化 Mountain Masterpieces - Nixi Pottery and the Amber Bowl | by Justin Kiersky 山中杰作 — 香格里拉的黑陶、木碗和唐卡 24 FESTIVALS & LIFESTYLES 民俗风情 The Yi Torch Festival - Playing with Fire | by Justin Kiersky 彝族火把节 — 与火狂欢 28 GREEN TRAVEL 绿色之旅 Laos’ New Shade of Green | by Bernie Rosenbloom 老挝的一抹新绿 32 PHOTO ART GALLERY 摄影画廊 Great photography on the mighty Mekong River | by Suthep Kritsanavarin 湄公河影像记录 36 WINE & DINE 饮食天地 Across the Bridge Noodles - The Pride of Kunming Cuisine | by Justin Kiersky 过桥米线 — 云南美食的代表 40 SHOPPING & LEISURE 购物休闲 Bangkok - The Greatest Shopping Extravaganza of Them All! | by Liz Smailes 曼谷 — 无可匹比的购物天堂 44 MyMEKONG 我的湄公河 Cry Me A River | by Stu Lloyd 为我泪流成河

Issue No. 1, Jan/Feb 2011 (Inaugural Issue) | 2011年,第1期,总第1期 主管 Executive Parent Organization: 云南出版集团公司 Yunnan Publishing Group Corporation 合办 In-cooperation with and sponsored by: 云南省旅游局 Yunnan Provincial Tourism Administration 合作 Co-published by: 云南画报社 Yunnan Pictorial Press, Yunnan, China 泰国知识传媒集团 Knowledge Media Group, Thailand 编委会 Editorial Advisory Board Members: 朱飞云 Zhu Feiyun, 喻顶成 Yu Dingcheng, 何池康 He Chikang, 汤汉清 Tang Hanqing, 龙雪飞 Long Xuefei, 岑容林 Prof Cen Rong Lin, Prof Edward Carter, Dr Jingjai Hanchanlash, Alan Maung Maung Swe 社长 Director: 闻林华 Wen Linhua 副社长 Deputy Director: 赵丽华 Zhao Lihua 国外出版人 Editor-in-Chief: 余曜辉 Jaffee Yee Yeow-Fei 执行总编 Editor: 崔颖 Cui Ying 执行主编 Managing Editors: 李敏 Li Min, 陈耀宗 Ernest Tan, James Pruess 特约撰稿人 Contributing Writers: Greg Jorgensen, Liz Smailes, Justin Kiersky, Bernie Rosenbloom, Stu Lloyd 图片总监 Photography Consultants: 张有林 Zhang Youlin, Martin Reeves, Olivier Nilsson 设计总监 Art Directors: 庄嘉强 Ch'ng Kiah Kiean, 陈佳 Chen Jia 设计 Graphic Designer: 刘雍恩 Lau Yong En 专题部副主任 Deputy Chief Features Writer: 施展 Shi Zhan 编辑记者 Reporters: 普中华 Pu Zhonghua, 张晓燕 Zhang Xiaoyan, 李思颖 Li Siying, 张柯昱 Zhang Keyu, 何思裕 He Siyu 发行 Circulation Managers: 曹红霞 Cao Hongxia, Yaad Pijadee 刊号: ISSN 1003-692X CN53-1034/Z 地址: 昆明市北京路141号 编辑部电话: 0871-3557459 3512372 传真: 0871-3545677 发行部电话: 0871-3528282 邮政编码: 650011 广告登记证: 滇工商广字第0245号 制版: 昆明雅昌图文信息技术有限公司 印刷: 昆明富新春彩色印务有限公司 国内发行处: 云南省邮政局 订购处: 全国各地邮电局、所 国内代号: 64-5 GMS发行: 泰国知识传媒集团 Knowledge Media Group, Thailand 网站: www.yunnanpictorial.com Email: [email protected] 网络订阅: 龙源期刊网 www.qikan.com.cn 博看网: www.bookan.com.cn 本刊图文版权所有 若转载和使用请与本刊联系 本刊凡有印刷装订质量错误，请直接向印刷厂退换。 联系人: 刘志海 电话: 13708465388 Yunnan Mekong Travel is a co-publication of Yunnan Pictorial Press and Knowledge Media Group Limited www.KnowledgeMediaGroup.com PO Box 188, Chiang Rai 57000, Thailand For advertising, circulation or subscription, please contact: +66 (0)86 181 6668, + 66 (0)53 758578 [email protected] Yunnan Mekong Travel is a semi-controlled free and paid circulation magazine. Single copies sale are priced in local currencies approximately in the equivalent of US$5 and subscription rates are given as below. In China and Thailand, complimentary copies of each issue of the magazine are distributed to all embassies and diplomatic services, government tourism bureaus, major airlines lounges of international airports of Bangkok, Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai and Kunming, selected deluxe hotel suites and business centers plus a mailing list of key tourism industry players and affluent individual business and leisure travelers. Annual Subscription Rates 2011 Thailand: 1,000 baht >Asia (except China): US$60.00 >All other territories: US$90.00 All rates are including shipping and handling charges. ISSN# 1003 692X ©2011 by Knowledge Media Group Limited and Yunnan Pictorial Press All materials in this publication are copyrighted by the publishers. Please direct to the publishers all requests for permission to use any part of the contents in any form. Reproduction of any part of the contents is strictly prohibited by law without the written permission of the publishers. The publishers reserve the right to accept or refuse advertising at their discretion. Acceptance of any ad does not imply endorsement by the publishers.

Greetings from 国外出版人寄语 the Editor-in-Chief 《云南画报湄公河旅游》的诞生，标 Finally, we have arrived at a new milestone for tourism in the 志着大湄公河次区域的旅游文化迈进 Greater Mekong Sub-Region (GMS) by witnessing this newly 了一个新的里程碑。由中国的云南画 born travel magazine christened Yunnan Mekong Travel. For 报社和泰国的知识媒体集团携手合 the first time ever, a travel magazine for the region in two of the 作，集合一批专业的旅游出版人和世 world's most important universal languages, English and 界级的摄影师，这份前所未有的以中 Chinese, with world-class travel photography, is brought to you 文和英文这两大国际语言为媒介的全 by a team of publishing professionals in China (Yunnan 新旅游杂志，终于呈现在各位读者面 Pictorial Press) and Thailand (Knowledge Media Group). 前了。 The Greater Mekong Sub-Region is truly an exotic travel 大湄公河次区域涵盖6个国家，是一个极具地域色彩的旅游胜 destination covering six countries, with the mighty Mekong 地。在中国境内称为澜沧江的湄公河发源于青藏高原冰川， River spanning 4,909 km, its source at the glaciers of Tibet, 由北向南蜿蜒逾4909公里，流经中国云南、老挝、缅甸、泰 flowing through Yunnan, China, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand, 国、柬埔寨，最后穿过越南注入南中国海。它是自古以来养 Cambodia, and Vietnam into the South China Sea. More than 育了两岸世世代代人民的“母亲河”，目前有超过6000万人 60 million people pledge their lives to this beloved “mother 靠它维生。人们对这条大河既怕又爱，对它敬畏崇拜之余总 river,” which has nourished generations for hundreds of years. 会忍不住将它拥抱入怀。如今，越来越多游客从世界各地前 This is a river feared and loved, worshipped and embraced, by 来发掘它的绝世之美，并接受其自然环境的深情拥抱。然 all who live on its banks. Travelers are gradually beginning to 而，人们对其神秘色彩的了解还不够，它那内在的、隐秘的 appreciate its beauty and enjoy its natural surroundings. And 美，也还有待进一步发掘。我们希望《云南画报湄公河旅 yet, not many understand its mystery and have yet to discover 游》能在这方面扮演一个关键的角色，逐步把这条大河的奇 its hidden beauty. Hopefully Yunnan Mekong Travel magazine 观美景和魅力介绍给全世界。 will play a vital role by gradually introducing all the wonders of this amazing river to the world at large. 目前你手上拿着的是《云南画报湄公河旅游》的创刊号。在 每一期的杂志里，为了让你和所有旅游爱好者享有阅读的乐 What you are holding is the inaugural issue of the magazine. 趣，我们将尽力提供最令人感兴趣的内容，逐一展示大湄公 For your reading enjoyment, in each issue we intend to bring 河次区域的神秘文化。著名的联合国教科文组织世界文化遗 you topics we believe will be of great interest to you and all 产以及新兴而不太为人所知的景点，豪华昂贵的酒店以及自 other readers. We will open up the hidden treasures bit by bit, 然朴实的旅舍，精致奢侈的国际美食以及健康美味的地方小 telling you what there is to explore, enjoy, and experience, 吃，路易威登、百达翡丽等国际时尚名牌以及价廉物美的地 whether it be a famous UNESCO World Heritage site or a new 方手工艺品，只要是值得探索、品味和体验的，都将成为我 and lesser known emerging destination, a great luxurious 们介绍的对象。 resort or a unique nature retreat, sumptuous international cuisine or healthy and delicious local food, shopping for luxury 这本创刊号除了重点介绍中国的热带天堂西双版纳，还介绍 fashion items and accessories such as Louis Vuitton or Patek 了云南著名健康美食过桥米线、香格里拉的民族手工艺品、 Philippe, or tips for the best buys in local products. 云南彝族的火把节、可媲美新加坡和香港的购物天堂曼谷、 位于泰国清莱的四季金三角豪华帐篷度假村，以及其他精彩 In this issue, we introduce you an exotic destination -- 的内容。 Xishuangbanna as China's tropical paradise. We also draw your attention to the healthy Yunnan cuisine and one of its 希望这本创刊号不仅能带给你阅读的乐趣，也能成为你书架 most famous foods, guoqiao mixian; the arts and crafts of a 上的珍藏品。 Tibetan minority in Shangri-la; the Yi Torch Festival, shopping in Bangkok to rival Singapore and Hong Kong; The Four 余曜辉 Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle in Chiang Rai; and more… Enjoy and keep this issue as a collector's item. Jaffee Yee Yeow-Fei 3

DATELINE GMS+ 大湄公河纪事 THAILAND the 50th anniversary of Laos-China diplomatic relations. The project is slated for completion within four years to mark the 40th Bangkok and Chiang Mai voted the world's best and second best anniversary of the founding of the Lao PDR, according to Mr. cities Somsavat Lengsavad, Standing Deputy Prime Minister. The In a survey completed in March 2010, readers of the US Travel & railway will start at the Laos-China border in Boten and run south Leisure magazine voted Bangkok and Chiang Mai the world's best to Vientiane. The railway will be a part of the ASEAN-China and second best cities for their 2010 World's Best Awards. Railway, which runs from Yunnan province south through Laos to Thailand, Malaysia, and Singapore. Bung Kan is Thailand's newest province Thailand welcomes Bung Kan as its 77th province, which is being Vat Phou marks 10th anniversary in February 2011 carved out of Nong Khai province along the mighty Mekong River Vat Phou temple complex, a UNESCO World Heritage site in in the northeast region, commonly called Isaan. It borders Laos Champasak province, prepares to mark its 10th anniversary with a and four other Thai provinces. series of traditional music concerts and performances by invited artists from India, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam from Thailand considers World Expo bid February 14 to 18, 2011. Activities include lighting up the temple Akapol Sorasuchart, president of the Thailand Convention and complex with four thousand oil lamps and floating candles in the Exhibition Bureau (TCEB), says that the Thai government is going water and lanterns into the night sky. ahead with a feasibility study on the possibility of Thailand hosting the World Expo in 2020 and will be pushing forward with plans to CAMBODIA submit a bid in 2011. Cambodia and Thailand drop visa requirements Thailand lifts its state of emergency Cambodia and Thailand have agreed, with immediate effect, that The state of emergency in Bangkok imposed in April 2010 during no visas are required for their citizens to visit each other's country. Thailand's worst political violence in decades has been lifted. Visitors are now happily flocking back to the capital. The Cambodia hosts ATF2011 government expects visitor arrivals for 2010 to hit its target of Cambodia will host ASEAN Tourism Forum 2011 in Phnom Penh 15.5 million. on January 15-21, 2011. ATF 2011 marks the 30th anniversary of this event since its inauguration in Malaysia in 1981. ATF Khiri Travel, Thailand, has exciting new programs 2011 will be attended by over 1,600 delegates including 400 Khiri Travel has announced twice-a-week guaranteed departures international buyers and more than 100 international media. for four itineraries across Indochina: Bangkok to Saigon via www.atfcambodia.com Angkor Wat, Bangkok to Luang Prabang via either Luang Namtha or Vientiane, and Luang Prabang to Hanoi via the Plain of Jars. CHINA The trips require a minimum of two travelers. Four itineraries are being offered by Khiri Naga, a division of Khiri Travel specializing Danxia and Mount Songshan — two new UNESCO World in flexible FIT travel options for independent and informal Heritage sites travelers on a budget. In the words of Mr. Willem Niemeijer, co- “Danxia Landform of China” is the general name of a Serial founder and CEO, “travel in the region is easier now and border Nomination for World Natural Heritage submitted for six crossing points between Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam geologically and geographically related Danxia landform areas are increasing all the time. Khiri Naga makes use of the improved collectively represent the outstanding universal values of Danxia roads now linking the countries of Indochina. More reliable geomorphology in southeast China. The six Danxia landform areas transport now makes places that were hard to get to easier to are: Mountain Langshan (Hunan province), Mountain reach.\" For details: www.khiri.com Danxiashan (Guangdong province), Taining (Fujian province), Mountain Longhushan (Jiangxi province), Mountain Chishui Fly or cruise - new helicopter and boat services (Guizhou province), and Mountain Jianglangshan (Zhejiang A new helicopter service operated by Advanced Aviation has begun province). operation from Chiang Mai. The six-seat, brand new helicopter flown by highly experienced pilots is available for charter. Contact: Mount Songshan is considered to be the central sacred mountain of www.advanceaviation.co.th China. At the foot of this 1500 metre high mountain, close to the city of Dengfeng in Henan province and spread over a 40 square- Over at Mae Sai, Maekhong Delta Travel is offering a brand new kilometre circle, stand eight clusters of buildings and sites, 120-seat boat service plying along the Mekong River up to including three Han Que gates - remains of the oldest religious Jinghong or down to Luang Prabang. Contact: edifices in China -, temples, the Zhougong Sundial Platform and www.maekhongtravel.com the Dengfeng Observatory. Constructed over the course of nine dynasties, these buildings are reflections of different ways of LAOS perceiving the centre of heaven and earth and the power of the mountain as a centre for religious devotion. The historical Laos-China high-speed train project monuments of Dengfeng include some of the best examples of Construction of the US$7 billion, 421km railway from the Laos- ancient Chinese buildings devoted to ritual, science, technology China border to Vientiane could begin on April 25, 2011 to mark and education. 4

泰国 老挝 曼谷和清迈分别被票选为世界最佳旅游城市的第一与第二名 老挝－中国高速铁路计划 根据美国《旅游与休闲》杂志(Travel & Leisure) 2010年3月所 连接老挝－中国边境和万象的铁路将于2011年4月25日动工， 作的一项读者票选活动，曼谷和清迈分别当选为世界最佳旅 建设这条造价70亿美金、长421公里的高速铁路将纪念老挝和 游城市的第一与第二名。 中国建交五十周年。老挝常务副总理宋沙瓦•棱沙瓦说这项建 设预计四年内完工，正好纪念老挝人民共和国成立40周年。 汶干被划为泰国最新的一省 这条路线始于老挝－中国边界的波腾，往南止于万象，将成 汶干自泰国西北伊森地区湄公河畔的廊开省被划分出来，成 为从云南省往南穿过老挝抵达泰国、马来西亚与新加坡的连 为泰国第七十七个省份。与它交界的是老挝以及泰国其它四 接东盟与中国铁路的一部分。 个省份。 瓦普庙十周年庆于2011年2月举行 泰国欲争取世博会主办权 位于占巴塞省的瓦普庙将于2011年2月14日至18日举行成为名 泰国商展局(TCEB)主席阿卡波•索拉苏切表示，泰国政府正 列联合国教科文组织世界遗产的十周年庆，期间将有一系列 在研究主办2020年世博会的可行性，并将在2011年交出提案， 由邀请自印度、泰国、柬埔寨与越南的艺术家所呈现的传统 争取主办权。 音乐表演与各种演出。四千盏油灯、水上蜡烛及放天灯还将 点亮夜晚的老寺庙群。 泰国2010年游客达到预期1550万人次 曼谷因为2010年4月发生的一场泰国数十年来最严重的政治动 柬埔寨 乱而进入国家紧急状态，如今已宣布解除。现在游客再度蜂 拥进入这个泰国首都。泰国政府期待2010年的游客数量会达 柬埔寨和泰国达成免签证协议 到预期中的1550万人次。 柬埔寨和泰国达成协议，同意双边人民可以免签证进入对方 国境。 泰国奇利旅游(Khiri Travel)宣布4条新经济旅游散客路线 奇利旅游宣布一周两次前往印度支那的四条固定旅游路线： 柬埔寨主办2011年东盟旅游论坛(ATF2011) 曼谷出发经由吴哥窟到胡志明市、曼谷出发经由琅南塔或万 柬埔寨于2011年1月15日至21日在金边主办东盟旅游论坛。这 象到琅勃拉邦，以及琅勃拉邦出发经由石缸平原到河内，两 场论坛将是1981年在马来西亚揭开序幕以来的三十周年，届 人就能成行。提供这四条旅游路线的奇利纳加(Khiri Naga)是 时将有多达1,600位代表参加，包括400位国际买家，并有超 奇利旅游的一个分支，专门提供较有弹性的经济旅游路线给 过100家国际媒体进行采访。www.atfcambodia.com 独立的散客。就如执行总裁、共同创办人威廉•尼梅杰所言： “如今在这个地区旅行已经变得越来越方便了，泰国、老 中国 挝、柬埔寨以及越南之间的边境过境点也一直在增加。奇利 纳加也充分利用了连接印度支那半岛所有国家的已改善道 丹霞与嵩山列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产 路。更加可靠的交通使得过去难以到达的地方容易抵达。” “中国丹霞地貌”是一系列世界自然遗产提名的通称，它包含 详细内容请参考 www.khiri.com 六个在地质与地理上与丹霞地貌相关的区域，这些区域共同 呈现出中国东南部丹霞地形的突出价值。这六个丹霞地貌区 飞行或游船——新的直升机与游船载客服务 域是：湖南省的崀山、广东省的丹霞山、福建省的泰宁、江 先进航空(Advanced Aviation)在清迈所提供的新的直升机载客 西省的龙虎山、贵州省的赤水山以及浙江省的江郎山。 服务已开始营运。由经验丰富的飞行员所驾驶的全新六人座 直升机现在开放包机服务。请联系: www.advancedaviation.co.th 位于中国河南省的嵩山，被认为是具有神圣意义的中岳。在 海拔1500米的嵩山脚下，距河南省登封市不远，有8座占地共 位于湄赛的湄公三角洲旅游 (Maekhong Delta Travel) 现在提供 40平方公里的建筑群，其中包括3座汉代古阙，以及中国最古 全新的游船服务，拥有120个座位的游船沿着湄公河来往行驶 老的道教建筑遗址——中岳庙、周公测景台与登封观星台等 于景洪与琅勃拉邦之间。请联系: www.maekhongtravel.com 等。这些总称“登封‘天地之中’历史古迹”的建筑物历经 9个朝代修建而成，它们不仅以不同的方式展示了天地之中的 概念，还体现了嵩山作为虔诚的宗教中心的力量。登封历史 建筑群是古代建筑中用于祭祀、科学、技术及教育活动的最 佳典范之一。 5

COVER STORY 封面故事 Yunnan China’s Gateway to the Greater Mekong Sub-Region Text / Justin Kiersky In the foothills of Qinghai's mysterious Kunlun Mountains, Photo by Jaffee Yee the headwaters of the Mekong River begin a serpentine course across the Tibetan plateau before descending into the gorges of a muddy super-highway linking China with its southern northwest Yunnan, carving its way through the province and neighbors. The result has meant not only new roads, rail lines, spilling its cache into Southeast Asia. dam projects, and hydro-electric plants—not to mention concerted efforts toward protecting the fragile environment The river meanders more than four thousand kilometers and promoting tourism—the GMS has also served as a platform through six countries, delineating the borders between China, for engaged, open dialogue and ushered in a new era of Myanmar, Thailand, and Laos before coursing through the symbiotic development in the region. heart of Cambodia, spreading into nine tongues and spilling into the South China Sea in the estuaries of southern Vietnam. With a combined population of nearly 325 million (about 60 But while the Mekong is regarded as the defining geographic million living along the river), inter-regional exports topping feature of Southeast Asia, the river has often been used to US$50 billion and collective economic growth hovering around divide the region into sections. 5 percent, the Greater Mekong Sub-Region has seen total exports increase more than fivefold since 1992 and has That all changed in 1992 with the formation of the Greater positioned itself as a major player in international trade and Mekong Sub-Region (GMS), a geopolitical development project stability. funded by the Asian Development Bank aimed at promoting peace and prosperity in the region. The Mekong has thus shed At the headwaters of the development boom stands Yunnan, its image as the “Heart of Darkness” and been transformed into also known as Greater Mekong Sub-Region 5. From the global entrepreneur to the most intrepid traveler, all eyes are locked on the remote province in the southwestern wilds of China. With 6

4,061 kilometers of international borderlands, accounting for into the center of air travel in western China with routes one-fifth of China's total frontier, and foreign investment tentatively scheduled to reach Australia, Europe, and Africa reaching nearly US$1 billion, Yunnan is well on its way to when the new airport becomes operational. shedding its reputation as the exotic periphery of China. Kunming's Wujiaba Airport presently offers direct service to thirteen countries with flights to any destination in the Greater It is fitting that the GMS has thrust Yunnan into the spotlight. Mekong Sub-Region, including Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Luang Culturally and geographically, Yunnan is more closely related Prabang, Vientiane, Siem Reap, Yangon, and Hanoi, taking to Southeast Asia than Beijing, Shanghai, or even Hong Kong. less than two hours. Wujiaba, the second oldest airport in Nearly a dozen ethnic minorities call the Yunnan borderlands China, is located only four kilometers from the city center, and home and the province is situated at the crossroads of some of only two kilometers from the train station, making Kunming the world's most ancient trade routes—namely, the Southern among the most convenient travel hubs of any major Asian Silk Road, the Burma Road, and the Tea and Horse city. Caravan—lifelines of commerce and cultural interaction that When it comes to international overland travel, there is no have linked China, Tibet, India, and Southeast Asia for place in China more ideally located or developing at such an millennia. explosive rate. With twenty international ports (and ninety international trade zones), more provincial airports than In the center of the web lies Kunming, the capital of Yunnan anywhere else in China, and a meager three hundred kilometers Province with a growing population of six million. Perched separating the western border of the province from India, above its southern neighbors at an altitude of 1,760 meters, Yunnan is on its way to becoming the bridgehead for China and Kunming is undergoing unprecedented growth even by Chinese southern Asia. standards—employing a model for sustainable development With the construction of high-speed rail lines already and eco-tourism while forging overland regional trade ties that underway that will cut travel time between Kunming and resemble a mixture of Thailand and Shenzhen. So far the plan Shanghai from thirty-six hours to around ten, the recent has worked and helped to narrow the economic gap between completion of a Kunming-Lijiang rail line that will extend to China's booming east and rough-and-tumble west. Lhasa, and the monumental Highway R3A that will allow drivers to travel between Kunming and Bangkok in less than Within the next three years the charming lakeside city of Kunming, known as “The City of Eternal Spring,” will be home Photo by Zhang Youlin to two of China's tallest buildings. Construction of the 83- storey South Asia Gate broke ground two years ago, and in July 2010 the Kunming government announced plans to build a 456-meter-tall skyscraper, which would make it the second tallest building in China behind Shanghai's World Financial Center. Kunming's first subway line is also currently under construction and that's only the beginning. Yunnan's growth has been nothing short of astronomical. Since 2000, when Beijing started implementing its “Go West” policy to curb east-west economic disparity, three new airports have been built in Lincang (2001), Wenshan (2006), and Tengchong (2009), and Kunming is set to open the fourth largest airport in China by the end of 2011. International flights to Dubai, Katmandu, Sri Lanka, and the Maldives have recently opened and plans are underway to transform Kunming 7

COVER STORY 封面故事 twenty-four hours, Yunnan keeps pushing forward. But the watching on Lijiang's Lashi Lake, search for snow leopards in province hasn't lost touch with its roots. Shangri-La or trek through primeval forests covered in rhododendrons and towering cypress trees. Home to twenty-five ethnic minorities, nearly half of the total in China, comprising one-third of the population in the Along with the UNESCO World Heritage sites of Lijiang and province, Yunnan is still the exotic land of plenty and continues the Stone Forest, as well as the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge, to inspire visions of the Wild West. The province rises to a there is no lack of world-class tourist destinations. Yunnan now staggering elevation of 6,740 meters at Meili Xueshan (known boasts some of Asia's finest golf courses on the shores of as sacred Kawagebo) on the Tibetan border and plunges to Yangzong Lake and the highest on the slopes of Jade Dragon nearly sea level just north of the Golden Triangle, boasting Snow Mountain to go along with a newly-built ski resort Himalayan peaks, tropical rain forests, Bronze Age cave outside Shangri-La and some of the finest natural hot springs cultures, volcanoes, karst landscapes, and some of the world's and spas in China. If the bounty of Yunnan seems endless, it is deepest gorges. In terms of topographic and ethnic diversity, due in large part to the merging of irrepressible natural beauty there is nowhere quite like Yunnan. And that's only half the with sustainable development policies with its partners in the story. region. Yunnan is considered by the Conservation International and The Greater Mekong Sub-Region has yet to reach the high the World Wildlife Fund to be one of the world's richest areas of water mark, but is nevertheless on the cusp of greatness. The biodiversity, a biological hotspot as crucial to the health of the GMS has already secured its place as a magical land ripe for planet as anywhere else on earth. From the endemic Yunnan discovery and development, one poised to become Asia's next Golden monkeys to the last remaining South China tigers in the great hope. And it's only just begun. wild, Yunnan holds a menagerie of species found nowhere else. You can ride an elephant in Xishuangbanna or go bird Photo by Zhang Youlin 8

云南 中国通往大湄公河次区域的门户 撰文 / Minna 摄影 / 余曜辉 打开一张世界地图，一条美丽的大河—澜沧江/湄公河把6个 重新描绘自己的模样。 国家紧紧联相连，而位于中国西南边陲的云南省锁住了大家 的目光。云南省处于东亚、南亚和东南亚结合部，与缅甸、 随着全面推进公路、铁路、航空和水运交通建设，云南对外 越南、老挝三国接壤，边境线总长4061公里，占中国陆上边 开放经脉逐步打开。中越、中老泰、中缅和中印４条国际大 界的五分之一，是中国毗邻周边国家最多、边境线最长的省 通道境内段全部实现高等级化。中越、中泰、中缅、中国经 份之一。云南的省会昆明与大湄公河次区域5国首都的距离均 缅甸至南亚的铁路正在开展前期工作。民用机场已经开通 在2000公里以内，从云南经缅甸到印度边境只有300多公里。 12个，投入使用的民用机场数量位居全国第一，开通国内外 云 南 省 有 经 中 国 和 云 南 省 人 民 政 府 批 准 开 放 的 口 岸 达 到 20 航线210多条，建设中的昆明新机场，定位为中国面向东南 个，另有90条边民互市通道。具有面向东南亚、南亚国家开 亚、南亚的西南枢纽门户机场。澜沧江－湄公河通航能力显 放的区位优势，是中国从陆上通往东南亚、南亚最便捷的通 著提升，中越红河航运开发、中缅伊洛瓦底江水陆联运已经 道。 提上议事日程。便捷的交通，云南的物流业也更加便宜快 捷，云南与周边国家形成了优势互补、互惠互利的外经外贸 事实上，“把云南建设成中国连接东南亚、南亚国际大通 关系，“蔬菜换石油”、“鲜花换水果”、“冷果换热果” 道”这一目标已进行了10年，这是云南省在中国提出“西部 的贸易进展顺利，铁路、能源等领域的合作也取得实质性进 大开发的战略”所实施的一个重要举措。这有利于缩小中国 展。中国还有大批外经企业相继进入周边国家投资，大量承 东西部地区的差距，助推中国经济又快又好地发展。现在， 接了对外承包工程、劳务合作等项目。 中国政府又进一步提出“要把云南建设成中国向西南开放的 桥头堡”，云南省是这样诠释的：“桥是大通道，头是大前 云南最高海拔6740米，最低海拔76.4米，有终年积雪不化的 沿，堡是大基地。”这个战略的实施将使包括云南在内的中 雪山，也有热带雨林；有神秘的恐龙化石，也有可爱的滇金 国西南地区，从开放的末端变为开放的前沿，实现开放与开 丝猴和孔雀；有众人向往的香格里拉，也有千年古镇……就 发的双轮驱动，引领云南经济再一次腾飞。这个战略也将使 让湄公河这条大河，作为向导，开始我们的发现与发展之 大湄公河次区域国家和地区在寻找自我和融入世界的博弈中 旅。 9

DESTINATION HIGHLIGHT 旅游重点 XiShuangBanNa China's Tropical Paradise Text / Justin Kiersky Photos / Zhang Youlin After carving thousands of kilometers through the gorges of Tai Kingdom (not to be mistaken with “Thai”), which Tibet and northwest Yunnan, the Mekong River slows, widens, established alliances with city-states as far away as Luang and slithers lazily into the lowland rain forests of Prabang, Laos, and Chiang Mai, Thailand. To this day, the Xishuangbanna. native Dai people speak Tai, a dialect closely related to Thai and Laotian, build bamboo houses, often on stilts, and practice Up until this point, the mighty river looks like any other alpine Hinayana (Theravada) Buddhism, dominant in Southeast river coming out of the Himalayas—deep, fast, and cold. Only Asia, as opposed to Tibetan Mahayana. after it enters the tropics and the rock faces that have defined its course descend into lush basins and warm sandy river banks Many would argue that while Xishuangbanna is as rich in does the muddy Mekong become recognizable again and roll culture as anywhere in China, what lurks beneath the cool lazily into the heart of Southeast Asia. canopies is equally as intoxicating. Located just south of the Tropic of Cancer, Xishuangbanna is home to China's largest Arguably the most culturally diverse region in the whole of tropical rainforest ecosystem, a biological hotspot coveted by China, Xishuangbanna is also the northernmost point of a science as a rare gene bank of tropical plant and animal species. bioregion stretching from south of Kunming to Singapore. There are few places in the world so multi-cultural and rich in The diversity of flora and fauna in Xishuangbanna is even more biodiversity, nor more ideally suited to serve as a cultural and extraordinary when you consider that one prefecture economic highway. encompassing only 1/500 of the total land area in China is home to one-half of all rare and endangered plants and animals Xishuangbanna shares a border with Laos and Myanmar, and in the country. Within the tropical menagerie there are Asiatic Jinghong, the main port and capital of the prefecture, is elephants, leopards, guar, gibbons, snub-nosed monkeys, and situated only a few hours by boat from the Thai port city of some of the last remaining Indo-Chinese tigers in China. The Chiang Saen. The jungle region was once part of the loosely knit best way to catch a glimpse of these animals is in one of 10

Xishuangbanna's numerous protected nature reserves, FAST particularly the Wild Elephant Valley. FACTS Although the image of Xishuangbanna as an untamed jungle Natural Oxygen Bars kingdom of plants and animals is untarnished, the region has seen a cascade of tourism, bringing considerable wealth and Mengla Wangtianshu Scenic Area, Xishuangbanna Tropical transforming the remote rain forest into a world-class tourist Botanical Garden, Mandian Waterfall Park, Xishuangbanna destination. It retains the jungle mystique desired by off-the- Virgin Forest Park, Rainforest Valley Scenic Area, Manting Park, beaten-track travelers and offers a treasure trove of creature Mengyuan Wonderland comforts for those who don't want to stray too far from the good life. Shopping Jade, woodcarving, black pottery, tea, and ethnic minorities Health conscious tourists and savvy travel agents have even costumes are available in the Jinghong Ethnic Handcrafts Mall taken to calling Banna “China's natural oxygen bar.” One located in the south section of North Jinghong Road. place ideally suited for relaxing is Menglun Botanical Garden, a 900-hectare Eden that leaves you feeling like you are floating Cultural Melting Pot down the Mekong on a green cloud. Menglun is not only the Among Xishuangbanna's thirteen nationalities, the majority of the largest and most diverse botanical garden in China, it also population (almost 80 percent) are from Dai, Han, and Hani houses the tropical research facility for the Chinese Academy of backgrounds. Other major ethnic groups in the region are the Yi, Sciences, one of the world's foremost plant and seed banks and Lahu, Bulang, Jinuo, Yao, and Miao. A smattering of Bai, Wa, a national education center for scientific research where Zhuang, and Hui people also inhabit the region. While they have students can participate in projects focusing on conservation co-existed for centuries, each nationality has retained its own and rainforest ecology. unique customs, language, and dress. When night falls in the jungle, it might seem like the time to The most famous and populous ethnic group in Xishuanbanna roll down the mosquito net and read by candlelight, but not in are the Dai. To experience authentic Dai culture, take a trip to Jinghong where the party is just getting started. The capital of Ganlanba, located 37 kilometers (one hour's drive) south of Xishuangbanna might be the only place in the prefecture with a Jinghong in Menghan. The town comprises five Dai nightlife scene, but it's certainly not lacking in atmosphere. A villages—Manting, Manchunman, Manga, Manjiang, and riverside bar street now crowds both banks of the Mekong River Manzha—and is replete with traditional guest houses, and there is an ever-increasing number of cafes, bars, restaurants, pagodas, and cultural attractions. restaurants, and nightclubs dotting Manting and Menglong Roads. Don't expect great rock 'n' roll, but you might end up If you're looking to get away from the crowds, visit Jinou with a front row seat to some of the better Dai, Bulang, and Mountain, a few hours east of Jinghong, and explore some ethnic Hani musicians playing languid tunes and find yourself Jinuo villages, among Yunnan's least known tribes. Further immersed in an exotic celebration of life and culture like southeast near the border of Laos, you can also visit the Yao nowhere else in China. people who inhabit the mountains of Mengla County and Yiwu Village. There are also Hani, Bulang, and Lahu villages concentrated around Xiding, Bada, and Bulang Mountain in Menghai County. 11

DESTINATION HIGHLIGHT 旅游重点 西双版纳 西双版纳可能是大湄公河次区域国家最为熟悉的云南的一个 地方。因为它与缅甸、老挝接壤，一条湄公河沟通着东南 中国的热带天堂 亚，山水相接，血脉相连，如跨境而居的民族傣族，就和东 南亚国家的傣族说着同样的语言，尊奉着同样的宗教。可是 撰文 / Minna 摄影 / 张有林 当你来到西双版纳，你会被它深深地吸引，因为它是一个理 想，更是一种生活。 它是一个不知是建在雨林中的城市，还是雨林从城市中长出 来的地方，绿色扑面而来，把世界用绿色填满，这样自然的 宁静和喧闹的都市反差太大，一开始可能会让人迷失在绿色 中。 在西双版纳的日子，“醉”了，随时都能舒服地睡个饱觉， 这要归功于热带雨林这片天然大氧吧的功劳，享受着负氧离 子在血液中奔跑的那份畅快。一滴甘霖从天而降，滴落在植 物王国的王冠上，化作一枚墨绿的宝石，成就了西双版纳， 成就了热带雨林。 西双版纳是地球北回归线沙漠带上一片保护完好的绿洲，保 存有中国最完整、最典型、面积最大的热带雨林生态系统， 是地球上少有的动植物基因库，在这片仅占中国国土面积 1/500的土地上，生存着占中国1/4的野生动物和1/6的野生植 物物种资源，是中国生物多样性重点保护地区，也是全球生 物 多 样 性 保 护 25个 热 点 地 区 之 一 。 著 名 的 有 亚 洲 象 、 印 支 虎、野牛、金钱豹、小熊猫、金丝猴、犀鸟、 熊猴、绿孔雀 等。 找一把椅子，面对森林坐着，红酒的浪漫、香精的芬芳，在 自然面前都略显做作，把负氧离子作为自己的能量因子。选 择勐仑植物园，在这个900 公顷的绿色大氧吧里，我们享受 着负氧离子的包围，晕乎得仿佛飘在一朵无边无际的绿色云 朵里。就让负氧离子强烈地碰撞我们的身体，一次次的“光 合作用”后我们长成一棵棵长脚的树。 如果能停下来，在西双版纳住上一段日子那是最好，在白天 夜晚过不同的生活，白天在自然中感悟，夜晚在城市中感 受，磨合出一种新的生活层次，精神也需要吸氧和生活。 夜幕西沉，最好的去处是澜沧江边。江的两边就是酒吧街， 去坐坐，但不一定要喝酒。去得多了，你会发现，西双版纳 的人很会生活，这里更象是他们的乐园。酒吧街当然有自己 的驻唱歌手，在架子鼓后面的不是摇滚歌手，却是布朗族歌 手。在面向东盟的门户这样一个区位特殊的地方，听着傣 族、布朗族、哈尼族等本地少数民族的音乐，听不懂歌词的 内容，但我们可以从那热情流畅的旋律中感受到他们对生活 的享受，正因为这样，西双版纳才在游客的眼中是时尚之 地。 12

厌倦了红尘俗世，可以出家去当和尚，在南传佛教中，短期 链接 出家是人们生活中的一件平常事，就像送孩子上学一样自然 不过。 橄榄坝的曼听佛塔寺作为中国目前唯一的南传上座部 这些地方可以享受天然氧吧 佛教止观禅修道场，这里每个月都举办各种不同的禅修班。 勐腊望天树景区、中国科学院西双版纳热带植物园、西双版纳 “禅修”就是通过一定的方法，使心得到净化，从而去发现 热带花卉园、西双版纳野象谷、西双版纳原始森林公园、雨林 宇宙人生的真谛，提升生命的层次。 谷景区、曼听公园、勐远仙境、思（茅）小（景洪小勐养）高 速。 其实修行就是发现自己弱点、与心作斗争的过程。而不是走 走形式，拜拜佛。因为要与自己做斗争，当然是痛苦的。当 这些地方可以享受城市休闲 你战胜了自己，其他事情就小菜一碟，没有你做不成功的事 美食泡吧：傣江南国际风情美食酒吧街、景兰茶城、大曼么、 了。时刻关照自己的心，做正确的事情！ 曼听小寨； 娱乐：欣赏《澜沧江·湄公河之夜》歌舞篝火晚会、《勐巴拉 娜西大型歌舞秀》； 购物：景洪北路南段的景洪民族工艺品市场内玉石、木雕、黑 陶、茶叶、民族服装都可以买到。 这些地方可以感受民族风情 西双版纳居住着傣、汉、哈尼、拉祜、彝、布朗、基诺、瑶等 13个民族，每个民族的文化各具特色，看民族风情肯定要到民 族村寨。最著名的傣族村寨在橄榄坝，隶属于西双版纳傣族自 治州景洪市勐罕镇，勐罕的核心是傣族园，由曼听、曼春满、 曼嘎、曼将、曼乍5个傣族村寨构成。基诺族主要聚居在景洪市 的基诺山，瑶族主要分布在勐腊县的瑶区、易武等乡镇，哈 尼、布朗、拉祜主要生活在勐海县的西定、巴达、布朗山等 地。 13

PROFILE 机构简介 The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle Text / Edward Carter Photos / Courtesy of Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle Situated within the jungle canopy, among thick stands of bamboo, and spaced along a one km (0.6 mile) jungle path, are fifteen large, open-concept tents. The tents are on stilts anchored into the hillside above the tree line, offering guests an unobstructed view of the countryside from either their bed or their deck. The fully air-conditioned, custom-designed tents provide all the comforts and accoutrements guests would expect from Four Seasons. 14

The furnishings and decor are reminiscent of 19th-century Finally, set amidst the bamboo forests of the San Valley, the adventure expeditions with handcrafted furniture, mosquito Camp's Spa includes two open-air salas featuring double nettings, and hurricane lamps. A signature Four Seasons king- treatment rooms, spa beds, and a bathtub/shower area. In this size bed takes up one side of the tent, while an old-fashioned, environment of simple luxury, guests enjoy traditional Thai two-person, hand-hammered, copper bathtub stands in the massages and restorative treatments that incorporate the middle of the room. A sundeck with two massage beds, a day healing power of natural mountain botanicals and warming bed, and an outdoor rain-shower add to the old-world charm. spices. Each of the tents is uniquely decorated and furnished in a variety of color schemes with coordinated furnishings. The Is it any wonder that, only three years old, in October 2009 the surrounding bamboo forest ensures privacy. Camp won the #1 Resort in the World for the second consecutive year in Condé Nast Traveller's 22nd Annual Designed for active, adult travelers, the Camp offers many Readers' Choice Awards! activities including elephant training lessons, a Golden Triangle excursion, and cooking classes. With no more than thirty guests on the property at one time, guests eat together at locations that may vary from day to day. Breakfast is served at the main restaurant, while lunch can be a picnic in the jungle. Sundowners are served at the Burma Bar, a relaxing time when guests enjoy a drink together while appreciating golden sunsets. Dinner is always an event at the Camp, whether a barbecue under the stars, a five-course formal meal, or a dinner by campfire. Nong Yao is the main restaurant. It is a thatched-roof, open-air pavilion by the riverbank, and offers Thai, Laotian, Burmese, and western cuisine. The Camp also includes a sophisticated wine cellar housed in a local-style, thatched-roof building that can also serve as a wine-tasting room as well as a venue for romantic dinners or small private parties. 15

PROFILE 机构简介 四季金三角 豪华帐篷度假村 撰文 / Edward Carter 摄影 / 四季金三角豪华帐篷度假村提供 16

在天棚似的树荫下和浓密的竹林中， 15座大型野外营地式的帐篷沿着1公里（0.6英里）长的森林小径而建。 这些大帐篷依山势地形高高矗立在树林中，视野开阔， 无论从睡床或从阳台上，都能纵览四周的乡野美景。 尽管置身野外，在这些精心设计、带有空调装置的大帐篷里， 四季酒店的豪华与舒适你都能享受得到。 大帐篷的摆设精致而豪华，手工家具、蚊帐、马灯等让住客 有如置身19世纪大探险之旅的感觉。帐篷内摆了四季酒店的 招牌特大号双人床，正中央立着一个老式的手工铜制双人浴 缸。阳台上，按摩床、沙发床和露天淋浴设施，让旧世界的 气息更为浓厚。每个帐篷拥有本身独具一格的色调，配以相 应的家具和饰品。周边浓密的竹林形成的天然屏障，则充分 保护住客的隐私。 这里的活动主要为精力充沛的成人所设，其中包括骑象训 练、金三角丛林探胜、道地美食烹饪等等。 在任何时候，度假村内住客总数都不会超过30位。所有客人 被安排一起进餐，地点可能每天都有所不同。早餐通常在度 假村的主餐厅享用，午餐则在森林中以野餐的方式进行。黄 昏时分，住客在建于高架上的Burma Bar 一边品尝饮料和点 心，一边身心放松地欣赏辉煌的日落。晚餐永远是每一天的 重点节目，不论是在星空下烧烤，在篝火旁用餐，或是细品 标准五道菜式的西餐，都将为一天的行程画上完美的句点。 度假村的主餐厅Nong Yao 建于河畔，采用茅草屋顶和开放式 的设计，提供泰国、老挝、缅甸和西方美食。度假村内还有 一座设有葡萄酒窖的本地风格茅草顶建筑，它除了作为品酒 室，也是浪漫晚餐或小型私人宴会的绝佳场地。 在San峡谷的竹林里，还有两个隐秘的开放式SPA 篷亭，其中 设有情侣理疗室、SPA 按摩床和沐浴/淋浴室。在低调奢华的 环境里，住客可享受传统泰式按摩和修复护理，让具有天然 疗效的深山草药和香料精华带入身心舒畅的超然境界。 具备这些独特的魅力，开张至今仅3年的四季金三角豪华帐篷 度 假 村 在 2009年 10月 出 炉 的 Condé Nast Traveller旅 游 杂 志 第 22届年度读者票选排行榜中，连续第二年登上世界最佳度假 村榜首，也就不足为奇了。 17

INTERVIEW 人物专访 Man of the Mekong An Interview with Mason Florence A native New Yorker, Mason moved to Thailand in 2002 after How much further do you think Mekong tourism has to spending twelve years in Japan as a correspondent for The develop? Japan Times newspaper and a travel guide book author for It's less a matter of numbers, and more about how to manage Lonely Planet publications. As founder of Talisman Media Group, tourism – how we can mitigate its negative social impact, and he has created publications including Bangkok 101 magazine promote more sustainable forms of travel. Travelers should aim (www.bangkok101.com) and the Bangkok Art Map to connect with the people they meet in the local communities, (www.bangkokartmap.com). In 2008, Mason became Executive as well as give something back when they leave. In this respect, Director of the Mekong Tourism Coordinating Office things are headed in the right direction, and plenty of such (www.mekongtourism.org), an intergovernmental body uniting travel information can be found on www.ExploreMekong.org the national tourism organizations of the Greater Mekong Sub- Region (GMS). With the six countries involved, is it hard to balance national interests? For our readers who may not be familiar, can you explain On the contrary, as each of the six GMS countries already has what the MTCO is? its own National Tourism Organization (NTO) tasked with The Mekong Tourism Coordinating Office (MTCO) acts as the promoting itself, the role of the MTCO is to instead facilitate secretariat for the Greater Mekong Sub-Region (GMS) Tourism collaboration between them and to promote the entire region as Working Group. Its primary functions are to coordinate a single destination. All of our members are very active and sustainable, pro-poor tourism development projects in the proud to be part of the Mekong Sub-Region. Perhaps no place is GMS in line with the United Nations Millennium Development this spirit of cooperation more evident than at the annual Goals, and to promote the six countries along the Mekong River Mekong Tourism Forum (www.MekongTourismForum.org ), – namely Cambodia, China (Yunnan and Guangxi provinces), which will next take place on 27-28 May 2011 in Pakse, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand, and Vietnam – as a single, unique Champasak province, in southern Laos. travel destination. Please name your favorite destination in each Mekong How did you come to be involved with the MTCO? country. I'd spent nearly twenty years traveling around Asia – in It's impossible to pick just one. Instead, my ideal journey would particular, the Mekong region – as a photographer, travel book be to travel through all six. Starting off in China's Guangxi writer, tour guide, and publisher, so when I heard about the province, I'd visit the spectacular karst peaks and remote opening in 2008 it sounded like a dream position, and I minority communities along the border with Vietnam and successfully applied for the job. around Guilin, and then move on to Xishuangbanna prefecture in neighboring Yunnan province. Following the river south, I'd What are the short- and long-term goals of the MTCO? then head down to the Golden Triangle region where Thailand, We hope to promote traveling in a more responsible manner, Laos, and Myanmar converge and make a side trip up to where sustainability and community aspects are just as Kengtung in Myanmar's Shan State before heading down river important as sightseeing. We also would like to see more people to Luang Prabang and the Lao capital of Vientiane. From there traveling overland, on multi-country itineraries that take I would cross over into Thailand's Isaan region and work my advantage of the vastly improved connectivity between the way south, later crossing back into Laos to explore the ancient Mekong countries. Not long ago a trip like this would have been ruins and waterfalls in Champasak province. Continuing nearly impossible, but now roads are paved, borders open, and south, I'd cross over into northeast Cambodia following the facilities better. Mekong Discovery Trail via Stung Treng and Kratie, and follow the river right down to Phnom Penh and into vast waterways of As a former travel journalist, what would you say the Vietnam's incredible Mekong Delta. That's a trip of a lifetime! Mekong offers visitors? In short, everything we travel for! The Mekong offers the best of In three words, describe the attractions of the Mekong. Asia on a plate, including nature, culture, cuisine, cruises, Nature. Culture. Adventure. adventure, art, and the world's most welcoming local hosts – an endless stream of truly amazing, authentic travel experiences. 18

梅森·佛罗伦斯，土生土长的纽约人，在2002年移居泰国 梅森·佛罗伦斯 以前，有十二年时间担任日本时报的记者，并曾为 Lonely Planet 撰写旅游指南。作为Talisman媒体集团的创始人，他 专访 推出了包括曼谷101杂志(www.bangkok101.com) 和曼谷艺 术地图 (www.bangkokartmap.com) 等出版物。2008年梅森 成为湄公河旅游协调办公室的执行主任。湄公河旅游协调办 公室 (www.mekongtourism.org) 是一个大湄公河次区域政府 内部旅游部门之间的协调联络机构 。 你能不能为我们的读者解释一下湄公河旅游协调办公室的性 你认为湄公河旅游业应该如何更深入发展？ 质？ 关键不是看表面的数据，而是要如何去管理旅游业——如何 去缓解它给社会带来的负面冲击，同时去提升可持续的旅游 湄公河旅游协调办公室 (MTCO, Mekong Tourism Coordinating 方式。游客应被鼓励和当地社区居民进行交流，在离去时能 Office) 是大湄公河次区域 (GMS, Greater Mekong Sub-region) 回报他们，而不是只取不予。如此一来，一切就会循正确的 旅游工作集团的秘书处。它的功能在于协调大湄公河次区域 方向发展。这方面的信息可以参考 www.ExploreMekong.org 可持续的扶贫旅游发展计划，使之与联合国千年发展目标一 致，并且把湄公河流经的六个国家——柬埔寨、中国（云南 要协调多达六个国家的利益是不是很困难？ 和广西）、老挝、缅甸、泰国与越南——作为一个单一旅游 恰恰相反。因为这六个国家各自已经有作自我推广的国家旅 目的地来宣传。 游组织，湄公河旅游协调办公室的角色是去促进它们之间的 合作，把这个区域作为单一旅游目的地来宣传。所有参与的 一开始怎么会参与湄公河旅游协调办公室的工作的？ 国家都表现得很积极，为自己身为大湄公河次区域的一分子 我分别以摄影师、旅游作家、导游和出版业者的身份在亚洲 感到骄傲。这种合作精神在一年一度的湄公河旅游论坛表现 旅行了近二十年的时间。2008年当这个职位在招聘时，我知 得最为明显。下一届论坛将于2011年5月27日与28日在老挝南 道这是自己梦寐以求的工作，而我也成功地争取到了。 部占巴塞省的巴色市举行。 湄公河旅游协调办公室的短期和长远目标是什么？ 请举出每一个湄公河流域国家你最喜爱的目的地？ 我们希望以更负责的态度来促进旅游业发展，我们视可持续 很难只各挑一个。我心目中理想的旅程是穿越全部六个国 性与社区价值和旅游同等重要。同时，我们期待越来越多的 家。首先我会从中国的广西省启程，参观桂林壮观的喀斯特 人参与跨境和多国旅游，充分利用湄公河流域各国之间已经 地貌并拜访周边沿着越南边境的少数民族村落，然后游览云 大大改善的连接条件。即使在不久以前，这样的旅行几乎不 南的西双版纳。继续沿着河往南走，进入泰国、老挝与缅甸 可能。现在，道路铺好了，边界开放了，各种设施也改善 交界的金三角地带，在到达下游的琅勃拉邦以及老挝首都万 了。 象之前，先绕道缅甸掸邦的景栋走一遭。随后过河抵达泰国 的东北伊森地区， 从这儿往南，回到河对岸的老挝探索占巴 以你过去作为旅游记者的经验来看，湄公河为游客提供了什 塞省的古迹和瀑布。再往南，沿着湄公河探索线路经由上丁 么？ 与桔井渡河进入柬埔寨东北，顺流而下到金边，最后来到越 简单地说，就是我们旅行时渴望得到的一切！湄公河把亚洲 南境内湄公河三角洲不可思议的巨大水路。这将是一段终身 最好的东西集中起来呈现给游客，包括自然、文化、游船、 难忘的旅程！ 探险、艺术，还有世界上最好客的东道主，这些结合成一连 串令人赞叹的旅游体验。 请以三个词来形容湄公河的旅游景点。 大自然，文化，探险。 19

ARTS, CULTURE & HERITAGE 艺术文化 Mountain Amidst a landscape at once unforgiving and of paralyzing Masterpieces beauty, the notion of sophistication or “high art” seems out of place. Therein lays the essence of Nixi. From jet black pottery to Nixi Pottery glinting kazhou knives, every handmade piece is an authentic and the work of art that is purchased from the master himself. Amber Bowl Recent archeological evidence suggests the ancient craft has been alive in Nixi for more than two thousand years; some Text / Justin Kiersky antiques found in the area have been dated to the Warring Photos / Li Donghong States Period. Little has changed over the millennia. The clay is harvested from an auburn-colored hill that rises just three Beyond the bustling streets of Zhongdian, where the Tibetan kilometers outside Nixi in the village of Tangdui. Both red and frontier roams wild and untouched, Highway 214 winds white clay are collected at the site, and then transported back around Napa Lake and up through the valleys of the Hengduan to Nixi where they are mixed together with other natural Mountains toward Lhasa. Just an hour outside Zhongdian minerals to produce the famous deep black hue, molded, and (better known as Shangri-La), you come to a small village then fired in brick kilns. flanked by mammoth peaks where local craftsmen busy themselves in makeshift shops just off the town square and yak Coveted for its resilience and intricate design, Nixi pottery was graze in the high alpine meadows behind them. You'd never traditionally a luxury item reserved for Tibetan nobility and guess, but among the unassuming mountain men lurk some of wealthy merchants. While Nixi antiques have become Yunnan's finest artisans—the master craftsmen of Nixi collectors' items in the art world, an authentic clay pot will cost (population: 800). you around US$20 in town. Today, seventy local families continue to preserve their cultural inheritance and new uses for the clay adorn nearly every home. In recent years, local craftsmen have modified their designs to include cooking utensils, flower vases, ash trays, zanba jars and, of course, kettles to serve yak-butter tea. Pottery isn't the only craft passed down through the generations in Nixi; from early summer until late fall, the valley resembles a thriving artists' colony. The market teems with handicrafts, yak horns, Tibetan incense, finely-molded silverware, knives, and Nixi's second claim to fame—hand- carved wooden bowls inlaid in amber. The wooden bowls are said to have originated in Shangqiaotou, literally translated as “Upper Bridgehead,” where tribes of sun worshippers once used them for offerings to the Sun God. The use of the “amber bowl” has wavered considerably over the years, but its aura has remained, and these days it is often attributed to a Tibetan song, a couplet that reads: “Everything can be thrown away or left behind, only this wooden bowl can I hold like a lover.” 20

Nixi is one of those rare places that manage to receive attention Where to Eat, Stay, and Play in Zhongdian and remain unburdened by new faces and increasing demands. Going up the mountain — Turtle Mountain Gear (just off the central square in the Old Town) Tourist buses run steadily in and out of Zhongdian, coming Mountain climbing gear, tents, kayaks, skis, mini-motorcycles, from and going to Kawagebo (6,740m sacred Meili Xue Shan) side cars, jeep treks, and maps. AKA: Whatever you need to get or Dongzhulin Yellow Hat Monastery. Mountains Institute and wild. several other NGOs are involved in community development projects in the area. And yet the integrity of the village and Going shopping — Dropenling Tibetan Handicraft Center (next crafts is maintained. to the Long March Museum) Non-profit social enterprise project selling handicrafts and The notoriety and the NGO presence have meant the artwork from artists all over Tibet. One of those places where inhabitants of Nixi are better prepared to deal with the influx of you're delighted to lighten your wallet. tourists and business. Where it was once nearly impossible to agree on a price, don't be surprised if you find yourself in the Going to sleep — Songtsam Retreat and Banyan Tree Ringa back of a workshop, listening to an old potter tell tales that Staggering locations, Tibetan architectural designs, private have been passed down for ages, or haggling -- in English. chalets, and world-class spas. There's nothing else like them in Shangri-La. As northwest Yunnan becomes a bona fide tourism destination and handicrafts like pottery and amber bowls become art, there Just wandering — Songzan Monastery and Napa Lake is poetic justice knowing that neither fame nor fortune will Built in 1664, the oldest and largest monastery in Yunnan disturb what is of real value to the people of Nixi: a nameless overlooks 3,200m Napa Lake. mound of clay among mountains. Soak it up — Xiagei and Tianshenqiao Hot Springs How to Get There For an alternative perspective on hotpot, the natural hot Shangri-La can be reached by bus or 45-minute flight from springs are a local favorite all year. Kunming. Rental cars are available for day trips to Nixi. You can also hop on any bus going to Benzilan or Deqin. Day Trippers If you continue northwest on Highway 214, you'll arrive at Yunnan's only “ski resort.” The Alps, it is not. But if you're craving to hit the slopes, it will do for a day. When you get back to Shangri-La, warm yourself up with some dried yak meat and barley wine or settle in for some Nixi hotpot. A feast fit for kings. Highly recommended. For a day trip, you can also travel thirteen kilometers east of Zhongdian, in the opposite direction of Nixi, to the village of Xiagei near Bita Lake. Meaning “White Cliff” in Tibetan, Xiagei is known for its celebrated painters of Buddhist tangkas. It is also among the most biologically diverse regions of Yunnan, but be forewarned: despite the quality of work, Xiagei is a pit stop on the road to Pudacuo National Park and has all the signs of a tourist trap. As always, locals know best. 21

ARTS, CULTURE & HERITAGE 艺术文化 山中杰作 敦厚黑陶 在一个遥远古朴的地方，有一种特有的红土与白土，它们混 香格里拉的黑陶、 合制成的黑陶从春秋战国时期就已出现。自古以来，无论普 木碗和唐卡 通藏民还是土司贵族，都爱它一成不变的黑色。它就是位于 云南省迪庆藏族自治州香格里拉县尼西汤堆（地名）的土陶 撰文 / Minna 摄影 / 张有林 山。 我终于明白，市井与香格里拉的区别，一个人声，一个物 尼西黑陶犹如藏族大汉，奔放豪爽。除了有烧水煮饭熬茶的 语。香格里拉的一切默不作声，美丽的雪山、幽深的峡谷、 烹煮器皿、花瓶、烟缸等小件，还有糌粑罐、奶茶壶、炭炉 茂密的森林和迷人的草甸湖泊默不作声，我们只能在款款物 等藏族生活必不可少的居家用品。 语中试图触摸她的柔美与粗犷。 安坐在路边时光里的敦实土陶，一字排开，犹如一溜老屋、 香格里拉大地，是充满语言的宁静，是黑陶的呢喃、木碗的 一行老树投下的阴影或者街对面枯坐的老人，岁月静好，何 歌唱，或是卡卓刀的凌厉与唐卡的神韵。神奇灵秀的山川和 须多言。如果说黑陶在幽暗的沉默中向我们暗示着生本虚无 古老的民族文化积淀，孕育出香格里拉各民族善良、旷达的 的话，那么，情人木碗则张开了关于世俗生活的热情怀抱。 性格，生活在这里的26个民族，9个世居民族，用他们智慧的 双手描摹着这片净土，生活中每一个小用品、每一个宗教器 情人木碗 具都成为他们手中无声的光彩，变成了悠久而不朽的艺术。 听到这样一首古老的藏族诗歌，叫《情人般的木碗》。 诗只 黑陶、木碗、木器艺、唐卡、牦牛角骨雕、藏香、藏银、银 有两句——“丢也丢不下，带也带不走；情人是木碗该多 器和刀具等工艺品惟妙惟肖生动活泼，仔细倾听，似窃窃私 好，可以揣在怀里头”。如此动人的情怀惊诧到战栗心惊。 语，又觉含情脉脉。 拨动心弦的事物，都有相通的共性，我开始钟爱木碗。 有着“太阳部落”之称的香格里拉县尼西上桥头（地名）是 尼西情人木碗的生产制作发源地。藏民酷爱饮茶，也酷爱饮 茶的茶具——木碗。茶碗有瓷碗、银碗、玉碗、木碗之说。 香格里拉尼西乡出产的木碗是最好的木碗之一，其色如琥 珀，经久耐用。 虔诚唐卡 与尼西的细腻清甜相比，这个碧塔海旁的村庄宛如青稞酒一 般浓烈奔放。“霞给”（地名），藏语意为“白色的崖 子”，位于香格里拉县建塘红坡（地名），距香格里拉县城 13公里。“霞给藏族文化生态旅游村” 享有“香格里拉第一 村”的称号，典型的藏民村落、藏区习俗和一系列手工作坊 使人如临奇境。 来到霞给唐卡院中，藏族女孩央宗卓玛正在专心地绘制唐 卡。她说，生活在高原上信奉藏传佛教的藏族人多是游牧民 族，为了随时朝拜、念经，就把佛陀的画像用矿物颜料做成 画，随身携带、随时参拜，就形成了唐卡。她说：“唐卡的 魅力在于这些色彩的鲜艳，它还有奇特的光环。”我相信， 这种光环不仅在唐卡中，更是一种召唤灵魂的光芒，点亮内 心。 22



FFEESSTTIVIAVLASL&SL&IFELSIFTEYLSETSYLES 民俗风情 PThlae yYiinTogrcwh iFtehstivFailre Once an annual gathering of far-flung clans, the Yi Torch Festival is today more carnival than family affair, attracting Text / Justin Kiersky Photos / Zhang Youlin huge crowds to bull fights, wrestling matches, horse races, beauty pageants, and spectacular fireworks displays. Come Every late summer in Yunnan, nightfall, the party really gets started, as throngs of revelers ethnic Yi villages erupt in flames for take to the streets to witness shamans ignite massive bonfires a wild three-day celebration of fire and banish evil spirits in a fury of flames. and ancestor worship called Huoba Jie, the Torch Festival. Falling in late July or early August (the twenty-fourth day of the sixth month according to the lunar calendar), nearly eight With “fire fights” engulfing the streets of Dali in flames and million Yi from more than fifty clans celebrate the Torch the Stone Forest lit up like the Las Vegas Strip, the Torch Festival, but the origins remain obscure, and many clans Festival is gaining a reputation as one of the most exotic—and, maintain their own version of the story. at times, harrowing—festivals in Yunnan. Fortunately, the Torch Festival hasn't lost its village charm. And for intrepid The prevailing legend has it that a god named Atilaba travelers looking to experience an authentic slice of minority sprinkled five seeds on the earth for man. This angered the King Yunnan, there are literally hundreds of villages in the highlands of Heaven, who sent a bull-deity named Dali to destroy the where celebrations transport you back to an age of animal harvest. Atilaba defeated the bull-deity in a wrestling match, spirits and capricious gods. but before ascending back to Heaven, Dali left behind him incense that turned into locusts and began devouring the crops. The Yi people fought back with torches, setting fire to their harvests, killing the locusts, and ensuring a bountiful harvest the following year. Once reviled as slave-owning “barbarians” who worshipped animal spirits, ate on the ground, and tore meat apart with their hands, the Yi were defined by their lack of civility and labeled yeren, or “wild men.” Fierce isolationism and “primitive” animist beliefs, however, masked a complex civilization that has influenced Yunnan as profoundly as any other minority culture. As tales of the Torch Festival have spread, so has some of the fear and mystique that have shrouded these shamanistic people for millennia. The first day of the festival, known as the Welcoming Fire, is reserved for a ritual sacrifice. After the animals have been slaughtered, the women prepare an enormous feast: pots of pork and chicken, plates of corn and boiled whole potatoes, stacks of sweetened buckwheat bread and bowls of sour vegetable soup. The meal feels more like an American Thanksgiving dinner than a traditional Chinese banquet. Rice is not served, dry chili powder is provided as a condiment, and chopsticks are, well, reserved for Chinese guests. Men are 24

expected to stuff themselves with fistfuls of meat, while raising TORCH toasts of buckwheat moonshine and corn whisky to ancestors, FESTIVAL family, and a bountiful harvest. HOTSPOTS On the second day, called the Day of Respect, extended families Dali Ethnic Bai Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan gather for another feast to renew old friendships and pray at the graves of their ancestors. At nightfall, bonfires are lit in With balls of fiery rosin flying all over Renmin Lu and fireworks front of each house and everyone takes to the streets with fights outside the Bad Monkey, Dali is without hesitation the most torches to play music, dance, and throw rosin—a highly insane Huoba Jie in the land. Wear a fire-retardant suit. If you're flammable sap collected from pine trees—at one another. For looking for a vestige of sanity, you'll find the celebration in Xizhou, ahei (unmarried men) or ashima (girls as beautiful as gold), twenty kilometers north of the Old Town, far more suitable. darkness marks their opportunity to sneak away into the fields for a night of romantic trysts. Chuxiong Ethnic Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan The final day is known as the Farewell Fire. Once the horse This is the place to go on the last night of the Torch Festival. races and wrestling matches have ended, the time comes to Thousands gather in Chuxiong's central square to light the prepare the Torch Festival bonfires. Young men in a procession gargantuan bonfire and dance around the flame in a riotous carry twenty-meter-long totem poles made out of pine trees procession. A photographer's dream. into the town square to erect a wooden pyramid. A shaman clad in black follows in their wake. He begins by praying for a Stone Forest (enshrined as part of a UNESCO World Heritage bountiful harvest, and then bestows offerings upon the gods for Site in 2009), Yunnan their benevolence before climbing into the pyramid and setting it aflame. This is the most exotic location to experience the Torch Festival, which is set amid Shilin's bizarre karst landscape. Highlights Even after two thousand years, erecting the bonfire pyramid is include beautiful “courting” dances, traditional costumes, and a still not an exact science. In rare cases, the poles collapse and surreal rotten-tooth backdrop. the failure is interpreted as a bad omen. But if the fire catches and the poles stand true, revelers continue their frenzied dance Xichang Liang Shan Ethnic Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan around the roaring flames, singing, waving torches, and lighting fireworks. Mobs of torchbearers burst into the streets Tens of thousands gather to celebrate the Torch Festival on the and surrounding fields, flooding the darkness with light until banks of Qiong Hai Lake in southern Sichuan. A center of Yi arts daybreak. and culture, Xichang is the most lavish Huoba Jie outside of Yunnan. While the Torch Festival is becoming one of China's hottest late summer festivals, the secret to traveling in Yunnan is that behind every mountain lies something astounding. If you're looking to experience a more traditional Torch Festival, or find a slice of wild Yunnan, just get as far away from the roads as possible. 25

FFEESSTTIVIAVLASL&SL&IFELSIFTEYLSETSYLES 民俗风情 大理的街道被火光淹没了， 夜晚的石林如拉斯维加斯大道般明亮 ——火把节已经被公认为是云南 最迷人的节日。 幸运的，它从不曾失去村落 特有的魅力。高原上数百个村庄 的庆典足以让渴望见识少数民族 真实生活面的无所畏惧的旅者们 重返那充满万物有灵与多神变幻 无常的时代。 彝族火把节 与火狂欢 撰文 / Justin Kiersky 摄影 / 张有林 曾经是民族的传统节日，今天的火把节更像个嘉年华 会，吸引无数的不同民族的人们聚集到一起斗牛、摔 跤、赛马、选美、欣赏灿烂的烟火。入夜后，好戏开始 上演，狂欢的人群从街道涌入，目睹毕摩点燃巨大的篝 火祛邪。 火把节通常是在七月下旬与八月上旬之间（农历六月二 十四日），有近千万来自数十个支系的彝族人共同庆 祝。然而这个节日的起源众说纷纭。 其中一个流行的版本是这样的：话说有个神叫阿提拉 巴，他赐予人类五种作物的种子。这一举动激怒了天庭 的王，他于是派遣名叫大力的牛神去破坏作物收成。虽 然大力牛神最后在摔跤比赛中被阿提拉巴所击败，重返 26

天庭时他在身后释出一种薰香，这薰香旋即化为蝗虫， 云南大理白族自治州 并开始啃噬人类的庄稼。彝族人用火把抵御，放火烧谷 大理无疑有最疯狂的火把节。烧着的松香火球在人民路间飞 物杀死了蝗虫，并且在来年迎来大丰收。 蹿，坏猴子酒吧外则烟火横行。身上的衣服得耐火才行。假使 你想找一处清醒的地方，建议你去喜洲，在大理古城二十公里 彝族崇拜万物有灵，事实上，他们有为云南带来深刻影 开外。 响不亚于其它少数民族的复杂文明。随着火把节传说的 云南楚雄彝族自治州 流传，彝族神秘的民族文化也开始为世人窥见。 火把节最后一天最值得的去处。成千上万的人群聚集在楚雄的 中央广场升起巨大的火把和篝火，欢腾地围绕着它跳舞。摄影 火把节的头一天称“迎火”，是献祭仪式。献祭的牲畜 师梦寐以求的画面。 被屠宰后，女人开始准备丰盛的宴席：一锅锅的猪肉与 云南石林彝族自治县（2009年被列为联合国教科文组织世界遗 鸡肉，盛在盘里的包谷及土豆，还有许多甜荞麦粑粑和 产） 酸菜汤。感觉不像传统的中国盛宴，反倒像美国的感恩 石林奇特的石灰岩地貌是举行火把节最具情调的地方了。精彩 节大餐。没有米饭，辣椒粉作佐料，筷子也为惯用筷子 的部分包括三弦舞、传统服饰以及奇特的喀斯特地貌。 的中国客人特别准备好了。男人大口吃着坨坨肉，举起 四川凉山彝族自治州 自酿的荞麦酒和包谷酒向祖先以及家族敬酒，祈求丰 成千上万的人们聚集在四川南部的邛海两岸庆祝火把节。西昌 收。 是彝族文化与艺术的中心，在云南之外就数这儿的火把节最盛 大了。 第二天为“传火”，久别的家族聚集在一起联系情感， 在祖先坟前祈祷。到了夜晚篝火在每家门前点燃，人人 火把节 举着火把走上街头，载歌载舞，彼此投掷易燃的松香到 热门点 火把上。彝族小伙子和姑娘们就着夜色在草地谈情说 爱。 第三天是“送火”。待赛马与摔跤结束，就是准备大火 把的时候了。一个年轻男子的行列抬着一根二十米长的 松木柱进入市镇中心广场，在其它木头支撑下将它树立 起来，成金字塔状。随后一个着黑衣的毕摩开始为丰收 祈祷，向神明奉献祭品，然后爬上“金字塔”把火把点 燃。 即使这仪式已持续了两千年，树立火把仍无法像科学般 精准。曾有那么几次，火把倾倒了，被视为是坏兆头。 如果火把顺利点着，始终屹立，人们就会围着熊熊烈火 继续唱歌跳舞，挥舞手中的火把并放起烟花。成千上万 的火把从四面八方涌入街道及广场，黑夜变得白昼般光 明，通宵达旦。 到云南旅游要知道在每一个山头后面隐藏着不同的惊 喜。如今火把节已成为中国夏末最热门的节日之一，对 于想体验更传统的火把节或云南狂野的一面的游客来 说，秘诀就是越深入云南越好。 27

GREEN TRAVEL 绿色之旅 Laos' Nothing but a choppy green ocean of mountains flowed as far New Shade as I could see. Our viewpoint, Nam Phae Village in northwest of Green Laos' Luang Namtha Province, presented an uninterrupted vista stretching southwest to the Golden Triangle, Thailand, Text & photo / Bernie Rosenbloom and Myanmar. And though the forested sea took our breath away, the climb to 2,094 meters was easy. We rode in a van. 28 But isn't Laos about trekking and benefiting poor villages? That endless green canopy hid rivers and streams, waterfalls, caves, rare wildlife, and the communities of some twenty distinct ethnic groups. Women still wove intricately patterned textiles on age-old looms. Men scoured the jungle for food, medicinal herbs, and bamboo. Surely one must hike for days to experience this side of Laos. Well, yes and no. Luang Namtha offers more than twenty treks with overnight village home stays, and all follow a community- based tourism (CBT) model that guarantees locals directly benefit. In fact, they run the show, acting as caretakers of the trails and attractions. Trained provincial guides lead trekkers to ethnic villages, which provide food and lodging, and present their lifestyles and traditions. Local guides delve deeper into the forest and explain its natural products. Essentially, you step into an authentic cultural and natural experience, and learn loads along the way. Luang Namtha is not alone in offering CBT treks. With more than twenty National Protected Areas (NPAs) covering some fifteen percent of Laos, and most of the rest carpeted by forest, twelve of the country's eighteen provinces already offer multi- day CBT adventures. They can include longboat rides, elephant treks, mountain biking, and rafting. More provinces are coming on line. So how does my drive on Laos' paved Route 3 connecting Thailand to China via Bokeo and Luang Namtha Provinces get coated in green? By hitting the ten highlights along “The Tea Caravan Trail” being developed by the Lao National Tourism Administration and the Asian Development Bank's Sustainable Tourism Development Project. The Tea Caravan Trail – Route 3 – follows an ancient trade route that winds from Bokeo's Mekong riverside border

checkpoint with Chiang Rai, Thailand, in Houei Xai Town and boat. through the mountains to Luang Namtha Town and the Route Some might mumble about carbon emissions when suggesting 13 turnoff to Yunnan, China. The 180-km drive only takes motorized travel to pristine wilderness, but others counter by four hours, but plan on spending a few days in clean pointing out the benefits for villages and their visitors. comfortable accommodation at both ends to really explore the Laos is creating a balance in green travel by attracting more trail. than just young trekkers and hardcore adventure travellers. Shouldn't flash-packers and baby boomers also have a crack at At the southern end stands Houei Xai's 100-year-old French pro-poor CBT without so much strain? From my mountain colonial garrison, Fort Carnot. The northernmost highlight, viewpoint, green tourism in Laos follows its trails as well as its Nam Dee Waterfalls in Luang Namtha Town's outskirts, is a roads. five-minute walk from a Lanten village, where visitors can shop for handicrafts. VISITOR INFORMATION: • www.tourismlaos.org In between, ethnic villages produce and sell woven goods, • www.ecotourismlaos.com rattan basketry, and bamboo paper. The list also includes Bor • www.stdplaos.com/web-based Kung Nature Park's springs and trails, 700-year-old Vat Mahaphot Temple ruins, and Nam Eng Cave – one of Laos' longest mapped underground mazes. The Tea Caravan Trail presents another side to green travel: the mainstreaming of sustainable, responsible tourism practices as stated in the Vientiane Declaration at the 2009 World Ecotourism Conference. Today, plenty of Laos' natural, cultural, and historical attractions and activities can be reached by road. The Northern Heritage Route takes travellers from Luang Prabang to the Plain of Jars and further east to Viengxay's “Hidden Cave City,” with ethnic villages, waterfalls, hot springs, and CBT treks along the way. Locally operated boats navigate Konglor Cave, a 7.5-kilometer tunnel in central Laos' Khammouane Province, easily reached by car or CBT trek. Konglor Village offers overnight stays in a simple lodge. Further south, the Savannakhet Historic Trail presents five walking-biking-driving, self-guided or guided circuits, which take in some fifty locally maintained sites. The province's eco- guide unit offers eight CBT trekking and cycling programs with overnight home stays. Southernmost Champassak Province's top attractions – the Vat Phou UNESCO World Heritage Landscape, 4,000 Islands, and Khone Pha Pheng Waterfalls – are all accessible by road 29

GGRREEEENNTRTARVAELVEL 绿色之旅 Luang Namtha 式。当地向导则带领游客深入森林里，解说森林的自然产 物。于是游客不但能真切体验当地文化与自然，一路上还学 老挝的一抹新绿 到不少东西。 并不是只有琅南塔省提供CBT徒步旅行步道。老挝境内共有 撰文 / Bernie Rosenbloom 摄影 / Adri Berger 超过二十个国家保护区，它们占去全国百分之十五的土地， 大部分为森林所覆盖。全国的十八个省份有十二个省已经开 在我眼前是一望无际波浪般起伏的山峦。我们正站在老挝琅 始提供长达数日的CBT探险旅游。内容包括乘坐大艇、乘大 南塔省的南珐村，从这里的视野往西南延伸可以把泰国金三 象、自行车登山以及划橡皮艇。有更多省份也即将加入。 角以及缅甸也收入眼底。我们开了部箱型车，穿越令人屏息 我这趟沿着老挝连接泰国与中国的3号公路行驶，经由为绿色 的林海爬升到2,094米的高度倒不是难事。 覆盖的博胶省与琅南塔省的旅程如何呢？一路上我把由老挝 国家旅游局与亚洲发展银行永续旅游发展计划开发的“茶马 覆盖在那片无边无际的绿色大伞底下是河流、瀑布、洞穴、 道”的十个景点看遍了。 稀有动物，以及许多包含二十来个不同部落的社区。女人仍 茶马道——3号公路——追随古代的一条贸易路线，它从博胶 然使用老织布机织出图案复杂的布料，男人在丛林里搜寻食 省呼艾夏镇与泰国清莱交界的湄公河畔的边检转弯，穿过群 物、药草以及竹子。只有徒步好几天深入其中才能见到老挝 山到琅南塔城，再从13号公路进入中国云南。180公里的车程 的这一面。来到老挝难道不就是要徒步旅行以及援助贫困村 只需四小时，然而这条路径值得花数日细细探索，在两端有 落吗？ 干净舒适的旅店解决住宿问题。 是与不是。琅南塔省境内有二十个以上沿路提供民舍的旅行 在茶马道南端矗立着呼艾夏镇里百年历史的法殖民时期要 步道，它们都依照以社区为主的旅游业（CBT, community- 塞——卡诺堡垒。最北的景点南迪瀑布在琅南塔城的郊外， based tourism)模式而建立，这种模式是为了保证当地居民直 离一个老会族村落班南迪村只有五分钟的徒步距离，游客可 接受益。事实上，居民本身主持一切，他们是这些旅行步道 以在村落里淘些手工艺品。 及观光景点的看管者。 其间有一些少数民族村落出售自制的织品、藤篮与竹纸。值 省里受过训练的导游把徒步旅行的游客带到少数民族的村 得一看的还有普欣本山国家自然保护区的溪流与步道、七百 落，这些村落提供吃住，让游客体会他们的传统及生活方 年的法玛哈夫庙及坦贡洛洞穴——老挝最长的地下迷宫之 一。 Nong Khiaw 30

茶马道还呈现绿色旅游的另一面，就如同在2009年世界生态 The Mekong River, Luang Prabang 旅游会议的《万象宣言》里所声明的：永续负责的旅游业。 有些人可能会嘀咕发动机化旅游的碳排放会污染清新的大自 然，另一些人则会指出这些旅游为村民与游客带来的好处。 今天，老挝的许多自然的、文化的与历史的景观与活动都有 老挝的绿色旅游创造了一种平衡，它吸引的不止是年轻的旅 公路通达。北方遗产公路带游客从琅勃拉邦进入到石缸平 者或冒险家，奢华背包客与婴儿潮的一代也来到这里放松神 原，往东更远到芒咸县的“隐形洞穴城市”，在这之间还有 经。从我所在的山上望去，老挝的绿色旅游业跟着它的步道 一些少数民族村落、瀑布、温泉和CBT徒步路径。 走，也跟着它的公路走。 当地操作的船只航行入甘蒙省长7.5公里的坦贡洛洞穴，这里 相关网站： 开车或经由CBT路径可以轻易抵达。空罗村有简单的旅舍供 • www.tourismlaos.org 游客过夜。 • www.ecotourismlaos.com • www.stdplaos.com/web-based 再往南走是包含五条步行－自行车－汽车道的沙湾拿吉历史 道，可以自助游或跟随导游。这儿共有五十个由当地人看管 的景点。该省生态旅游单位还提供八条带民舍的CBT步道与 自行车路径。 占巴塞省最南端有数个极佳景点——瓦普世界教科文组织世 界文化遗产、四千岛以及昆帕蓬瀑布，都可以经由公路与船 只到达。 31

PHOTO ART GALLERY 摄影画廊 Suthep 素帖·吉沙那瓦林 Kritsanavarin 泰国顶尖的摄影记者，20年来专门从事东南亚环保、社 Suthep Kritsanavarin is one of Thailand's 会及人道议题的拍摄，作品发表于世界各地的报刊杂 leading photojournalists who has covered 志，包括《纽约时报》、《国际先驱论坛报》、《国家 environment, social and humanitarian issues 地理杂志》泰国版、《日本时报》、《地理杂志》、 in Southeast Asia for almost two decades. 《AERA》新闻周刊等，并曾多次得奖。他认为摄影记 者应扮演尽责的社会文化观察者的角色，为地方及全球 His award-winning photographs have been published world- 社会的改革做出贡献。秉持着这样的理念，他的拍摄计 wide, including in the New York Times, the International Herald 划都是长期性的，以便与他所拍摄的社群建立互信，并 Tribune, National Geographic Thailand, the Japan Times, 深入了解拍摄的题材和对象。 Geographical and Aera. Suthep's work is founded on his firm belief that a photojournalist must act as a conscientious 素帖曾在泰国、柬埔寨、中国、日本、德国和法国举行 observer of society and culture, and contribute towards social 摄影展，展出的系列作品包括《圭与大象：一个挣扎求 change at a local and global level. He achieves these goals by 存的故事》、《新疆生活纪实》、《泰国的猎人与僧 working on projects over a long duration, thus establishing 侣》、《四千美岛：面临威胁的湄公河捕鱼活动》等。 trust with the communities he works with and building a deep understanding about the issues that he is documenting. 素帖花3年时间在老挝南部湄公河流域的四千美岛地区 以相机记录大型大型水坝工程对当地传统捕鱼社群和野 Suthep has exhibited his photography in Thailand, Cambodia, 生动物的威胁，引起了世人的关注。目前，世界自然基 China, Japan, Germany and France. His exhibitions have 金会、国际河流组织、生态恢复和区域联盟等国际和区 included: Kuay and Elephants - Struggling for Survival; Life in 域组织借助这些照片，希望加强公众对湄公河流域大型 Xinjiang, China; Hunters and Monks in Thailand; and 水坝工程所造成的环境冲击的认识。 Siphandone - Mekong Fishing under Threat. 素帖的影像记录寓意深刻且震撼人心。过去那些长期拍 Suthep's photo essay about the Siphandone area on the 摄计划，都是他自费且自发进行的。如今，湄公河纪实 Mekong River in Southern Laos, shot over a three-year period, 摄影系列获得了美国蓝色地球联盟的资助。他也在 is a vital documentation that draws attention to the threats 2008年获得美国国家摄影记者协会最佳新闻摄影奖和国 posed by large hydropower dams to traditional fishing 际摄影大奖赛环保组第二名，2009年又荣获日本摄影杂 communities and wildlife. These images have been used by 志《Days Japan》举办的国际新闻摄影大奖赛特别奖， international and regional organizations, including the World 以及中国举办的人类贡献奖年赛大奖。 Wildlife Fund, International Rivers and Towards Ecological Recovery and Regional Alliance (TERRA), to raise public awareness about the impacts of the proposed dams on the Mekong mainstream. Suthep's powerful images create in-depth documentary essays that are shot over protracted periods of time on his own funding and initiative. His Mekong River photo documentary has now been awarded a grant by the Blue Earth Alliance. In 2008, Suthep was awarded a Best of Photojournalism award from the US National Press Photographers Association and 2nd prize on Environment Issues by International Photography Awards and a Days Japan International Photojournalism Special Prize and Grand Award for Humanity Photo Awards 2009 from China. 32

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PHOTO ART GALLERY 摄影画廊 34

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WINE & DINE 饮食天地 Across the Across the Bridge Noodles (Guo qiao mixian) might not be the “sexiest” dish in Yunnan—a land celebrated for matsutake TBrhidegePNriodoedleosf: mushroom hotpot and spicy Dai dishes—but when it comes to Kunming Kunming cuisine there is nothing like a bowl of rice noodles Cuisine (mixian) and a fresh assortment of a la carte meats, vegetables and fungus that makes locals drool. Text / Justin Kiersky Photos / Zhang Youlin While Across the Bridge Noodles is the pride of Spring City 36 cuisine, and many Kunmingers claim the dish as their own, the origins of the simple delicacy are obscure and contentious. Most frequently, the first bowl is traced back to a romantic tale set far southeast of the capital. Legend has is that Across The Bridge Noodles originated by accident hundreds of years ago in Mengzi County when a young scholar retreated to a small island in South Lake in order to prepare for the national examination. Every day his wife had to cross a bridge to bring him his meals while he was busy studying, but by the time she reached his refuge the soup would often be cold. One day while cooking a pot of chicken soup she mistakenly spilled oil into the broth. She thought nothing of it, however, when she arrived at her husband's retreat she discovered that the layer of oil from the spilled chicken broth had retained the soup's heat. Not only was the soup warm, it was still hot enough to cook the raw slices of fish and meat. From that time on she made a habit of adding a thin layer of oil to the broth whenever she delivered the platters of fresh meats, vegetables and rice noodles to her husband. As Across the Bridge Noodles have gained notoriety the soup has evolved to meet the ever-increasing desires of Kunming's food crazy locals. These days you can choose from a wide assortment of seafood, spices, fungus and vegetables in nearly any restaurant of the city. You won't find a consensus on the “authentic” taste or ingredients of Across the Bridge Noodles, but rest assured there are a few time-honored traditions that locals keep in the Spring City. First a broth is prepared by stewing pork ribs in a large pot of boiling water for over five hours. No spices are added in order to retain the natural aroma and flavor. Ingredients are laid out on a platter and raw foods are added to the broth first. Afterwards, the fresh meats are added, typically quail eggs,

chicken meat, sliced pork, pork liver and fish. After waiting you're looking for a little adventure, take a walk through the about a minute for the meat to cook, next comes the cooked city and decide for yourself. You can even visit even the mixian meats, usually duck, chicken legs and deep fried pork. The third exhibit at the Kunming Museum. step is to add the potatoes and large raw vegetables. Cabbage, onions, tofu skin, coriander, been sprouts, carrots, leeks are Prices range from 10 yuan for a bowl on the street to several served a la carte. Lastly, add in the rice noodles. Oil, chili and hundred in some of Kunming's finer dining establishments. A vinegar and other condiments are left up to personal word to the wise, while in Yunnan, a province where exotic preference. cultures and cuisine converge, the amount that you pay for a dish is negligible. Across the Bridge Noodles is one of those Whereas in the old days a master chef would have been on site definitive dishes that locals would never order anywhere to display his technique by slicing the pork in front of you as else—not in Lijiang nor Beijing's swankiest Yunnan thin and evenly as a piece of transparent paper, there are only a restaurant—if not for the lack of authenticity, fresh meats and few restaurants in Kunming that go so far as to bring a chef to vegetables or southwest China ambiance, than simply as a your table. One way you can still determine the skill of the point of pride. chefs, or the quality of the kitchen, is to see if the pork does not curve when placed in the boiling soup. Today you can find two varieties of Kunming-style rice mixian—”plain” made from white rice and “colored” made from purple rice—as well well as two different textures: “dry” and “sour” paste noodles. For a taste of old Across the Bridge Noodle order the latter, which elders tend to prefer due to the softer texture of the noodles. There is always room for debate when it comes to texture and taste in cuisine, and Kunming locals treat, and critique, their cuisine like an Olympic sport. Volumes have been written about guo qiao mixian and most locals will be able to tell you where to find the best bowl of noodles in a matter of seconds. But if 37

WINE & DINE 饮食天地 过桥米线 对于云南的饮食风味，很难用一个词来准确概况。26个少数 民族的饮食各有各的特色，苦、辣、酸、甜各有各的滋味。 云南美食的代表 还有很多是你想也想不到的吃法，基诺族有凉拌茶，白族吃 生皮生肉，哈尼族有长街宴，彝族爱吃坨坨肉……众口实在 撰文 / Minna 摄影 / 张有林 难调，可有一样，新鲜、绿色是对所有食材的基本要求。如 果非要找出一种在云南大部分人都喜爱，都很普及的食物， 38 那就要数过桥米线了，是中国及世界华人公认的云南的标志 性美食。 在云南，早餐时间，很多人会选择去吃上一碗过桥米线。米 线是一种古老的食物，已有300多年的历史。稻作文明的发达 带来了米线的产生和发展。在中国很多地方都有米线这种食 物，只是叫法不同，在广东叫米粉，在广西叫米干，但只有 在云南，才把米线这种美食发挥到了淋漓尽致。 过桥米线的名字就很有来头，这是一个动人而温馨的故事。 早在300多年前，有一个书生在一个小岛上独居苦读。他的妻 子每天要经过一座小桥为他送午餐。一次，妻子准备了鸡 汤、米线和肉片，没想到由于汤面浮了一层油，虽然经过了 很远的路，到达小岛上时汤还很烫，竟然连生肉片放入汤中 也一烫而熟，吃起来味道很不错。从此这种充满着关爱的食

物，就被称为过桥米线。 起了家，有的人为过桥米线著书立说，建立博物馆。过桥米 线不仅名列云南十大名小吃之首，连在美国、法国等国，过 第一次吃过桥米线的人会有点不知所措，当看到大大小小的 桥米线也作为中国小吃的代表之一亮丽登场。无论是街边小 十多个盘子碟子，真不知该如何下手。过桥米线最讲究的便 馆里几块钱碗的，还是高级餐厅里几百块一碗的，都有着云 是汤，把上好的排骨、筒子骨、五花肉和鸡肉放在一起炖， 南人浓浓的情结。那熟悉的味道是云南的乡情，那平实的滋 最少要熬5个小时，不能加任何香料，要的就是那种原汁原 味一如人生。 味。以前的大户人家，米线是要现做现吃的，还要请上好的 开肉师傅，脊肉开得好坏完全要看开脊肉师傅的手艺。脊肉 用长长的过桥米线，作为云南人的邀请函。 的厚薄要与汤配合，开得上好的脊肉迎着光象纸一样的透 明，放入汤中也不能卷曲。 要吃出过桥米线真正的“过桥”滋味来，还有专业技术。先 把生的鹌鹑蛋、鸡脯肉片、猪脊肉片、肝片、猪腰花片、肚 头片、鲜鱼片放入滚烫的高汤中烫熟，再把做好的香酥、鸡 腿、油炸肉也放进去，还有蔬菜类的配料，豆腐皮、香菜、 豆芽、胡萝卜、韭菜，还有最具特色的菊花、豆坨、草芽等 都依次放入，最后才放入米线。而最正宗的吃法是要把米线 和汤分碗装，把配料在汤碗里烫熟后，从米线碗里挑几根出 来放入汤碗稍烫一下，然后把米线和汤一起吃进去。那米线 每次从小碗里过到汤碗里，都好象是过了一个桥一样。 云南人在小小的米线身上做了大文章，有的人靠做米线餐饮 39

SHOPPING & LEISURE 购物休闲 BANGKOK Sukhumvit Road is the shopping lifeline for the tourist, lined with malls, each brimming with desirable brand names – Gucci, The Greatest Shopping Prada, Todd's, Marc Jacob, and Karen Millen, to name a few. Extravaganza of The marathon stretch is serviced by a sky train for rapid Them All! movement between the malls, where the shopper's itinerary begins at Phrom Phong station with The Emporium. Here Gucci Text / Liz Smailes Photos / Jaffee Yee and Louis Vuitton rub shoulders with Thailand's home-grown brand, Jim Thompson. A recent newcomer is the American Bangkok quite simply sends the shop-a-holic brand, Gap. delirious. Where does one start in a city that never goes to bed? Attracted by midnight sales Next stop is Chidlom for the flagship Central Department and bargains galore, people from every corner Store, where desired cosmetic and clothing brands can all be of the globe converge on this iconic metropolis found under one roof. With endless celebrations, shopping 24 hours a day to visit one of the greatest festivals, and a tourists' shopping pass with discount cities in Asia and stock up on international percentages, Central brings their customers to a new level of brands and uniquely Asian products. shopping-friendly experience. If it's the company of some of the most revered and irresistible fashion names in history that you are seeking, and if you also want to inconspicuously check out top Thai designers, hop next door to Gaysorn Plaza. Quality and finesse flow over several floors tempting shoppers with the sparkle of jewels, the lure of a Persian rug, and the scent of luxury skin care. Opposite this one-stop luxury house is the Erawan Centre, where Burberry and Bally feed the appetite for more bags and the award winning Erawan Tea Room served by the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok takes the weight off the feet. This is the professional shopper's perfect pit stop to refuel the energy for the final stretch. Central World, once shaken but not stirred, has been restored to its former glory. Worthy of a day in itself, it's the Disney World of shopping where chain stores from all corners of the world come together – River Island, British India, Marks & Spencer, Lacoste, and Zara – to compete floor after floor after floor with fashion designers, watch makers, gadget geeks and footwear for the well-heeled. At the pinnacle of the Sukhumvit shopping spree is Siam Paragon, six floors encompassing the pride of Bangkok where 40

an underground aquarium entertains children for hours while great selection of just about everything that's edible, from shoppers above disappear into a warren of exclusivity that high-quality ingredients to a decent dish of curry. Tourists in includes a luxury car room for the likes of Ferrari and Bugatti. particular are drawn to their amazing selection of shellfish and domestic fruits from Rayong and other nearby provinces. When seeking unique design pieces for your personal living space it’s worth taking the 40 minute taxi ride from central Not on the main street Bangkok to Ekamai Ramintra for the Crystal Design Center (CDC) showcasing architectural, interior, decorating and So many shopping delights are hidden away somewhere in the construction products. This one-stop shopping district for maze of Bangkok. Here are three noteworthy businesses off the customers, designers, architects, project owners, importers and beaten path. exporters in sourcing new and innovative materials will keep Bambou you up-to-date on new design trends, all housed in several This one offers eco-friendly and contemporary home distinctive designed buildings integrated within a posh accessories made in Vietnam from rattan and bamboo landscape design district. products. The head office in Bangkok has a stunning showroom and factory outlet on Asoke Road, just off Sukhumvit Road. Bangkok has so much to offer those of every taste and budget. www.bambou-limited.com Research and plan your days well and you can have a great time Gems in this wonderful city. Just remember to arrive with at least one With 80 percent of the world's gems passing through Bangkok empty suitcase! at some point of the production and design process, the scam market is active and it's buyer beware. Mark Power is a Markets certified gemologist from the Gemology Institute of America and has teamed up with jewellery designer Laurie Hardoon To keep budget shoppers happy day and night, there are a Adulayavichitr to produce some genuinely stunning pieces for myriad of markets in every corner of the city. Two in particular your personal treasure trove. Visit their office in the Silom gem you won't want to miss. district, by appointment only. www.markpowergems.com Chatuchak Weekend Market This market is particularly popular for Thai handicrafts. The range is huge, the quality is high, and the intense competition keeps the prices low. The scale is enormous: the market covers an area of 70 rai (35 acres) and contains more than 15,000 shops and stalls. There are over 200,000 visitors each day, and they spend an estimated total of 30 million baht (approximately US$1 million). It isn't the most comfortable shopping experience, but for most people the benefits outweigh the disadvantages. Go early in the day when it is a bit cooler. Or Tor Kor When shopping feeds the appetite and hunger sets in, wander across from Chatuchak Market to Or Tor Kor open daily from 6 AM to 8 PM. In this super clean fresh market you will find a 41

SHOPPING & LEISURE 购物休闲 Plan Toys 曼谷 Producing innovative educational toys for every developmental stage of childhood, PlanToys® incorporates thoughtful design 无可匹比的购物天堂 and age-appropriate challenges to stimulate children's creativity. This Thai company has been manufacturing 撰文 / Liz Smailes 摄影 / 余曜辉 environmentally friendly wooden toys (sold largely in the USA and Europe) for 30 years. Their small factory outlet can be 曼 谷 是 一 个 随 时 能 让 购 物 狂 不 能 自 已 的 不 夜 城 。 每 天 24小 found at the head office on Sathorn Soi 10. 时，许多人从世界各地飞抵亚洲最大城市之一的曼谷，为的 www.plantoys.com 就是在午夜大折扣或各种名目的促销活动中，把各种国际时 尚名牌和独特的亚洲商品纳入怀抱。 VAT refund a shoppers' 素坤逸路是曼谷最主要的购物街。在沿着这条大街矗立的多 座购物中心里，可找到各种国际时尚名牌的专卖店，如 paradise Gucci、Prada、Todd's、Marc Jacob、Karen Millen等。要逛遍这 些购物中心和精品店，最好的方式是搭乘高架捷运。购物之 Apart from sometimes unbelievably good prices you can also enjoy 旅的第一站是位于Phrom Phong捷运站的The Emporium。在这 the benefits of discount cards at many malls and department 里，Gucci和LV与泰国本土名牌Jim Thompson比肩而立，美国 stores. Goods purchased in Thailand are VAT inclusive. However, 名牌Gap不久前也已进驻其中。 foreign visitors receive a VAT refund on luxury goods. When you see a “VAT Refund for Tourists” sign, you can receive a 7 percent 下一站是Central百货公司的旗舰店。这家位于Chidlom捷运站 refund of the VAT levied on goods at the shop. Certain conditions 旁的百货公司汇聚了各种品牌的化妆品和服饰，可说是应有 apply, and you won't be able to claim your refund until you leave 尽有。它提供持有外国游客折扣卡的顾客各种优惠，加上终 Thailand from an international airport. 年不断的各种节庆促销活动和购物节，让你有宾至如归的感 觉。 假如你要找那些在欧美时尚史上最受推崇的名牌，以及当今 泰国最顶尖的设计师品牌，那你就不能错过与Central百货公 司毗邻的Gaysorn Plaza。在这高档购物中心里，闪亮的珠宝首 饰、诱人的波斯地毯、芬芳迷人的护肤用品等高档商品，足 以让你流连忘返。它的对面是Erawan Centre。若想买个时尚包 包，里面的Burberry 和 Bally 可能有适合你品味的。走累了， 可在曼谷君悦酒店的得奖下午茶餐厅Erawan Tea Room稍作休 息，补充精力后再做最后一轮的冲刺。 接下来的Central World购物中心曾遭红衫军纵火，目前已恢复 其光鲜亮丽的色彩。这里聚集了多家全球著名的名牌店，包 括 River Island、 British India、 Marks & Spencers、 Lacoste、 Zara等。出自世界级设计师之手的各种时尚服装、钟表和鞋 子在此争艳斗丽，足以让手头阔绰者流连一整天。 42

给素坤逸路购物之旅划上完美句点的，是Siam Paragon。这座 其它购物地点 6层楼的购物中心是曼谷购物精华荟萃之地。它的地下层有一 座水族馆，足以让小朋友留连好几个小时。而楼上的各个精 除了上述几个主要购物场所，曼谷的大街小巷里还隐藏着许 品店，包括停放着法拉利、布加迪等豪华跑车的汽车展示 多鲜为人知但绝对值得一逛的购物地点，下面介绍其中三 厅，绝对足以满足你的购物欲。 个。 Bambou 若你想为生活空间增添创意，可搭乘出租车到40分钟车程外 售卖以藤和竹为材料的环保又时尚的居家用品。产品在越南 Ekamai Ramintra 路上的水晶设计中心采购各种建筑、室内设 制造，总部设在曼谷与素坤逸路交接的亚速克路上，其陈列 计和装饰用品。这里是和设计相关的产品的集散地，设计一 室兼专卖店非常精致迷人。 流的建筑物内展示了各种最新、最具创意的设计品，绝对是 www.bambou-limited.com 设计师、建筑师、进出口商和一般消费者认识最新设计潮流 和采购设计材料及创意商品的首选之地。 Gems 曼谷是全世界80%的珠宝在设计和生产过程中的必经之地，因 曼谷是应有尽有的购物天堂，任何品味和预算的游客都能在 此假货泛滥，购买时务必特别小心。Mark Power是获得美国宝 这里获得满足。只需稍微收集相关的信息，规划好行程，你 石 学 院 认 证 的 宝 石 专 家 ， 他 与 首 饰 设 计 师 Laurie Hardoon 一定能在这座精彩的城市里享有一趟美好的旅程。当然，别 Adulayavichitr联手，为客户量身定制珠宝首饰。他们的办事处 忘了多带至少一件空行李箱！ 位于曼谷是隆路珠宝区，需预约。 www.markpowergems.com 市集 Plan Toys 不管是在白天还是晚上，曼谷各个角落都有各式各样的市集 制造适合各成长阶段儿童的教育性创意玩具，借由深思熟虑 能满足低预算游客的购物需求。其中有两个市集不容错过。 的设计来激发儿童的创造力。这家公司由泰国人经营，过去 30年来所生产的环保木制玩具主要销售到美国和欧洲。其曼 Chatuchak 周末市集 谷总部设有小型专卖店，地址是Sathorn Soi 10。 以售卖泰国手工艺品闻名。这里的手工艺品不仅选择多质量 www.plantoys.com 好，而且因为竞争激烈，价格都被压低了。整个市集占地 35英亩，拥有多达15,000个店铺和摊位，每天客流量高达20万 增值税 人，日营业额估计达3000万泰铢（约100万美元）。尽管购物 退税优惠 环境不是很舒适，但东西价廉物美，绝对让你不虚此行。建 议在上午天气还不太热的时候前往。 外国游客在泰国购物除了不时可享有令人难以置信的超低价 格，还可使用游客折扣卡在特定的百货公司和购物中心获得折 Or Tor Kor 鲜货市场 扣。所有商品的价格已包含7%的增值税，但外国游客购买奢侈 在 Chatuchak 逛到肚子饿了，可到对面的 Or Tor Kor 找东西 品可享有增值税退税优惠。在贴有“VAT Refund for Tourists” 吃。这里每天从早上6点营业至晚上10点，不仅环境干净整 （游客增值税退税）标志的商店购物，可申请7%的增值税退 洁，而且食品琳琅满目，从山珍海味到普通咖喱皆一应俱 税。退税申请须符合特定条件，所退税款须在从国际机场离境 全。来自罗勇府等地区的各种贝壳类海鲜和新鲜水果，最让 时才能申领。 游客流连忘返。 43

MY MEKONG 我的湄公河 I am reading The Lover Cry Me A River (the French classic known as L'Amant) by Marguerite Duras. Text & photos / Stu Lloyd It is set in pre-World War II Indochina and details a “forbidden fruit” affair between an adolescent French girl and a Chinese man she meets on a ferry ride up the Mekong. Reality and fiction blur as we step aboard the RV Mekong Duras spent six years in the town of Sadec where her novel is set Pandaw, an accurate facsimile of the colonial-era Irrawaddy and the house of her lover still stands. We walk through fruit Steamship Flotilla, which dates back to 1860s Burma. Think markets bursting with the largest tropical produce you could teak paneling, brass fittings, crew in snappy white outfits. imagine: pineapples, dragon fruit, tamarinds, bananas, Marry this with the mystique of the mighty Mekong River – baguettes, coffee, and live frogs and snails. which I've long desired to cover from its nine-tributary mouth to its mountain source – and it's a truly enchanting journey. He says he's just back from Paris where he was a student, that he lives in Sadec too, on this same river, the big house with the My mother sometimes tells me that never in my whole life shall big terraces with blue-tiled balustrades. I ever again see rivers as beautiful and big and wild as these. In the surrounding flatness stretching as far as the eye can see, And here is the house formerly belonging to Monsieur Huynh the rivers flow as fast as if the earth sloped downward. Thuy Le. Gaudy as a Chinese temple, with gold leaf flourishes and floral tiles. Ceilings and walls are ornately carved with bat Duras's words still ring true, as we cast off from My Tho in the motifs, a symbol of prosperity. Mekong Delta, the seafood basket of Asia, with US$2.5 billion of seafood hauled out of its fish farms annually. Monsieur Huynh was indeed prosperous, but when South 44

Vietnam fell to the Communists his family made a run for the boasts one of the oldest Otis elevators still in use in the world, West and the house was converted into a police station. and Citroens of similar vintage. But Siem Reap has zoomed ahead. Unthinkably cool shops and French architecture punctuates the shoreline; a cathedral spire restaurants, like Café Indochine, line its streets. Boom Boom here, a house there. And on Giang Island, a raft of monastery Room is a funky favorite – no, not what you think … this shop buildings dating back to 1890. Church bells ring out with a burns albums straight into your iPod for US$1 each. Talk about melancholy chime of former grandeur allowed to flake and leapfrogging a generation. fade. Then the boat bid farewell, uttering its terrible mysteriously On the Pandaw, you are time-warped back to the colonial era, sad wails that made everybody weep. especially as you watch another magical blood-orange Mekong In all, My Mekong is a modern reality that enjoys a much sun set to the tinkling soundtrack of ice in long gin-and-tonic happier ending than Duras's fiction could ever manage. glasses. We cruise the more languid sections of the Mekong described by Duras: STU LLOYD | www.stulloyd.com Stu Lloyd was born in Zimbabwe and has since travelled to fifty-five In the misty sun of the river, the sun of the hot season, the countries and lived in seven of them, spending roughly one third of his banks have faded away, the river seems to reach the horizon. life in Africa, one third in Australasia, and one third in Southeast Asia. It flows quietly, without a sound, like the blood in the body. The travel writer/ author now calls Chiang Mai home, from where he can explore the countries of the Greater Mekong Sub-Region, At Chau Doc, a flash new pier adjoins the promenade where the preferably on his BMW650 GS motorcycle. colonial-looking Victoria Hotel holds forth. French music, in the Edith Piaf mould, blares from tannoys. A trishaw ride puts us further into The Quiet American colonial oeuvre. Raffish Phnom Penh is the capital of a once-powerful kingdom that ruled much of Southeast Asia. Fishermen work the waters, laying nets in the morning mist. Several of Cambodia's six thousand pagodas from the 6th-9th centuries come into sharp focus. Then the French-inspired buildings of the renascent city... From the main temple in the 1860's Royal Palace, with French tinges in its Cambodian grace, to the National Museum designed by the French in 1920, louver-shuttered buildings and white-washed tree bases along Norodom Boulevard, and countless chic cafes along the waterfront transforming this into “The Chilling Fields.” Then on to the Tonle River, where an ocean-sized lake swells and recedes seasonally. Floating villages with schools, churches, libraries, and even a basketball court, drift by. Siem Reap was a forgotten town when the remains of Angkor Wat were uncovered, and the Great Age of Travel arrived with the Grand Hotel d'Angkor constructed in the early 1930s. It 45

MY MEKONG 我的湄公河 为我泪流成河 撰文 • 摄影 / Stu Lloyd 我正在读玛格丽特杜拉斯的《情人》(L'Amant,法国小说)， 在朱笃，一个崭新的码头与殖民风格的维多利亚旅馆所在的 故事的背景设于二战前的印度支那，描述一个法国少女与她 大道毗连。依迪丝皮亚芙风格的法国音乐从谭诺伊扬声器流 在湄公河渡轮上遇见的一个中国男人之间禁忌的恋情。 泻出来。一趟三轮车之旅把我们带回到《安静的美国人》一 书描述的殖民时期氛围。 一旦登上湄公河邦岛游轮，现实与虚构的界限就开始模糊 了，呈现眼前的画面是可以回溯到吉卜林与奥威尔时代 美艳的金边是过去统治大部分东南亚的一个强大王国的首 1865年缅甸殖民时期依洛瓦底江游轮船队的逼真缩影。遍览 都。水上的渔民忙着在晨雾中撒网。柬埔寨有六千座宝塔建 湄公河的九条支流一直到其山中源头是我长久以来内心的渴 于六到九世纪间，其中的数个清楚地映入眼帘。然后是新生 望。想象那柚木嵌板、黄铜装饰和穿着漂亮白色制服的船 的城市里那些受法国风格影响的建筑…… 员，再把它们与辽阔神秘的湄公河结合起来，这着实是段迷 人的旅程。 从 1860年 建 成 ， 带 法 国 色 彩 的 、 优 雅 的 柬 埔 寨 皇 宫 里 的 主 庙，到1920年由法国人所设计的国家博物馆，诺罗敦大道上 母亲有时对我说，在我有生之年再不可能见到像湄公河这 的卢浮宫式建筑及洗白的种了树的地面，还有无数沿着河滨 么美丽、辽阔与狂野的河流了。在围绕着它的一望无际的 时髦的咖啡店让气氛如此与众不同。 平原之上，河流仿佛向下倾倒般迅速地奔流着。 然后是洞里萨河，这里有个像海洋那么大的湖随着季节变化 当游轮从湄公河三角洲的美萩解缆启程，杜拉斯的文字依然 涨落。有着学校、教堂、图书馆甚至篮球场的漂浮的村庄从 符合真实。这儿是亚洲的鱼仓，每年养殖场出产价值二十五 眼前漂流而过。 亿美金的鱼产品。 当吴哥窟被发现时，暹粒还只是个被遗忘的城市。随着吴哥 杜拉斯在沙沥住了六年，小说的背景正设于此，而她爱人的 窟大饭店在1930年代初的建成，旅游的大时代于焉来临。暹 房子依然矗立。我们走进水果市场，所有你想象得到的热带 粒号称有世界上最老的，仍在使用中的奥的斯电梯以及雪铁 食物在这里都找得到：菠萝、火龙果、罗望子、香蕉、长棍 龙汽车。 面包、咖啡、活青蛙与蜗牛。 暹粒往前跑得更远。像Café Indochine这种超乎想象的时髦商 他说他才从巴黎留学回来，现在也住在沙沥，就在这条河 店 及 餐 厅 排 满 街 道 。 独 树 一 帜 的 Boom Boom Room很 讨 边上那幢有着蓝色瓷砖扶手的宽敞露台的大房子里。 好——别想错了……它为你的iPod灌入音乐，一张专辑收费美 金一元。这是个向前跳跃的时代。 眼前就是这幢房子，过去为余度乐先生所拥有。用金箔与花 卉瓷砖装饰的它看起来如同中国庙宇般华丽，天花板与墙满 然后这船向众人道别，它那可怕的，神秘的哀鸣使每个人 是精雕细琢的蝙蝠图案，象征着幸福昌盛。 潸然泪下。 余先生当年是很成功，越南统一后，他的家族去了西方国 然而，我的湄公河可是个现代的存在，比起杜拉斯的小说 家，房子后来被改头换面成了公安局。 来，有个快乐得多的结局。 沿岸有一些法式建筑，一会儿是一处教堂尖塔，一会儿是一 作者简介 栋楼房。江岛上还有许多盖于1890年代的修道院式的房屋。 教堂忧郁的钟鸣回荡着逝去的辉煌。 Stu Lloyd 出生于津巴布韦，至今到过五十五个国家旅行，在其中七个 居住过，大约有三分之一的时间待在非洲，三分之一在澳大拉西亚， 在邦岛游轮上，时光仿佛回到了殖民地时代，特别是望着又 还有三分之一在东南亚。目前这位游记作家视清迈为家，从这儿他可 一个神奇的、血橙红的湄公河夕阳在手中琴汤尼里冰块的叮 以探索围绕着大湄公河区的国家——骑着他的BMW650 GS摩托车。 当碰撞声中缓缓落下的时候。此时我们来到了杜拉斯笔下较 慵懒部分的湄公河： 在这条河上朦胧的、炎热季节的太阳底下，河岸仿佛消 失了，无尽的河水延伸到天边，静静地流，像人身体里的 血液。 46