Arabian Moda Autumn-Winter 2021-22

THECONTENT AM EDITORIALS RebePlrincess FromParistotheMiddleEast,ArabianModa’sAs J’aimetheGems|Page22-25 HauteAsItGetsissuefeatureseverythinghaute CoverStar:FarnoushHamidian LaFemmeGuoPei|Page28-31 coutureandjoaillerietoinspiringpersonalitiesthat (MetropolitanModels) RebelPrincess|Page36-39 havemarkedtheirindustries.Checkoutthelatest FirstStormbyJulienFournié|Page56-59 trendsandmust-haveitemsfrom theworldofpre- HauteJoaillerie:LydiaCourteille TheNewCouture|Page65-67 mium luxuryandplanyourupcomingvacationat Couture:RamiKadi GlamourOntheGo|Page88-91 oneofourhighly-rateddestinations.Wehopethat FromMonacowithLove|Page92-95 youenjoythisissueasmuchaswehaveduringour Photographer:DavidTenori TheRusticSeries|Page111-114 toursaroundFrance,thesit-downswithvisionaries ArtDirector/Stylist:VictorConcepto TheLebaneseCoutureVault|Page115-122 andwatchingavant-premièresofthetrendsofto- LaDiva|Page123-126 morrow.Aurevoirinanewedition. Filmmaker:MaxenceGautier assistedbyAnotineL’Hopital AMPEOPLE FashionEditor:VictorConcepto MakeupArtist:MaudeGobet GraphicTeamLead:NitinShivprasadVarma HairStylist:PaulineLegrand DarrenStar|Page13-14 ContributingWriter:HaiderRifaat Location:HotelCastille,Paris DianePernet|Page60 Withspecialthankstoalltheparticipatingcreative ÉdouardVermeulen,Natan|Page32-33 teamsofphotographers,filmmakers,modelsand GeorgesChakra|Page34-36 beautyartists. GuoPei|Page26-27 ImaneAyissi|Page63-64 Forallinquiries:[email protected] arabianmoda.com|6 JulienFournié|Page54-55 Koukla&MillaLapidus|Page86 LeilaGhandi|Page7-9 LydiaCourteille|Page20-21 MayeMusk|Page87 MeryemUzerli|Page10-12 NourahAlFaisal,H.R.H.|Page85 RenaudPellegrino|Page61-62 THEC OVER STORY Page15-19 FarnoushHamidianwearsAzzaroCouture, RamiKadiCouture,LydiaCourteilleHaute Joaillerieandmore. BESTOFC OU TU RE Page40-53 AlexandreVauthier,AlexisMabille,Balen- ciaga,Dior,ElieSaab,GeorgesHobeika, GiambattistaValli,MaisonValentino,Schi- aparelli,StéphaneRolland,UlyanaSergeen- ko,Viktor&RolfandZuhairMurad. HAU TE JOAILLERIE ISFOREVER Page68-78 Boucheron,Chaumet,Chopard,DeBeers, Dior,HarryWinston,Jacob& Co.,Louis Vuitton,Messika,Mouawad,Piaget,Pomel- lato,Tiffany&Co.andVanCleef&Arpels. THEBEAU TY ZONE Page79-84 Carolina Herrera, Chanel, Ex Nihilo, Givenchy,KilianParisandLaPrairie. AMTOU RISM Page96-110 Cities:Bassin d'Arcachon,Deauvilleand Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Hotels:BarrièreLeNormandyDeauville, Grand HotelSaint-Jean-de-Luz,La Clef TourEiffelParisandMetropoleMonaco. Restaurant:MoriVeniceBarParis.







Meryem EXCLUSIVEINTERVIEW TheInfamousHurrem Sultan UzerliByHaiderRifaat urkish-GermanactressMeryem Uzerli dominated the cult drama itisquitetheopposite.Peopleexperimentmore, PhotosCourtesy:Meryem Uzerli MuhteşemYüzyıl(Mag whichallowscreativitytothriveasaresult. nificentCentury),essay- Theonlyconaretheunstableworking ingthehistoricalfigure conditions. Hurrem Sultan–aheadstrong AM:Whatledtoatransi- matriarch.Thisbreakoutrole tionfrom workingin wonherpopularacclaim and Germanytoacting shesweptnearlyallactingcate- inTurkishdramas? goriesforbestperformance. arabianmoda.com|10 AM:Give our readersa brief background about yourfamilyandheritage? Ihavetwobrothersandasister.My mom isGermanandmydadis Turkish.Iwasbornandraisedin Germanyandgrewupinasmall city,Kassel.Mymom’ssister marriedaBrazilian,soalarge partofmyfamilyalsoshares someBrazilianblood. AM:Whatisinterestingabout Meryem Uzerli? Idon’tknow,really.EverythingI amandeverythingIdoseemsvery normaltome. AM:Istheentertainmentin- dustry in Germany frail,in your view? How would you compareitwithTurkey’sshow business? Tobehonest,Iam notafanof comparingthetwobutletmetry. TheGermanentertainmentindustry isverystableandreliable.However, peoplefeartheymayendupdoing somethingwrongiftheytry.InTurkey,

AnauditionofHurrem SultanfortheOttomanEmpire PhotosCourtesy:Meryem UzerlibutIeventuallyhadtoletgoofthoseinputsandgive show,Muhteşem Yüzyıl(MagnificentCentury)brought thecharactermyownspin. metoIstanbul.ImovedtoTurkeyafterbaggingthatrole. Ihadneverspentmuchtimeinmyfather’shomecountry AM:Towhatextentwasyourcharacterinthe soitwasprofoundlyemotionaltohaveexperiencedlife perioddramasimilaranddifferentfrom thereal there. Hurrem Sultanweknowinturkishhistory? Inevermettherealone,thoughIwishIcould. AM:Youarewidelyknownforyouriconicroleasthe fiercematronHurrem SultaninMuhteşem Yüzyıl;a AM:HowdidHurrem challengeyouasanartist? female-ledcharacterwedon’tgettoseealotinmain- stream television.Howwereyouapproachedforthis Shechallengedmeeverydayforalmostthreeyears. role?Wereyounervous?Whatwentthroughyour Herstruggles,power,love,aggressionandherhighs mindwhenyoureadthescriptforthefirsttime? andlowsingeneraltestedmycraftasaperformer. A personIknew from mytheaterdaysmessagedme Hurrem wasatickingbombthroughouttheshow. aboutaproductioncompanyinIstanbulthatwasona Sheisbyfar,themostpowerfulwrittencharacter lookoutforthemaincharacterofagrandshow.She Ihaveeverplayedinmylife. showed the production AM:Howdoyouwantfemalecentricrolesto teammyshowreelandbe- lievedthatIwouldfitthe evolveinTurkey? roleofHurremSultan.She Oh,notjustinTurkeybut consoledmebysayingthat allovertheworld.Iwish ifforsomereasonIdidn’t talented writers would gettheleadpart,thepro- create heroic characters duction company had forwomen.Iam boredof many other supporting chauvinistic, sexist and charactersIcouldfillin.I stereotypicaldramas.Iam hadjustgottenoutofasix afirm believerofgender yearrelationship,had no equalityandtoseeArabi- jobanddidn’tknowhowI an actors or colored wouldmanagetopaymy peopleplayterroristsand rent. Iwashopefulthat criminals just frustrates maybeIwouldlandachar- me!Weshouldn’tenable acterintheshow.Iwasn’t themediatofooloursoci toonervousbecauseIhad etiesinto believing such noideaaboutthefutureof stories.Weareallhumans Muhteşem Yüzyılandthe intheend.Ifeelthatwe successthatwouldcome shouldtakeapagefrom a withit.Nobodyknew at fewconstructiveplayslike thetime.Itwassimplythe theSpanishshow,LaCasa visionofthescriptwriter, de Papel.Ithas some directorsandtheproduc- amazingcharacters! ers.Ionlyconcentratedon whattheyaskedofme,and AM:Whichroledoyou IultimatelygotHurrem’spart.Whilereadingthescript seeyourselfdoinginthe ofthepilotepisode,Iwasoverwhelmedbytheemotions future? mycharacterwasgoingthroughandhowmuchIneeded toprovideasanactressfortheroleofHurrem.Ifeltthat Iappreciatepowerfulcharactersinpowerfulstories. Ionlyhadthepowertokeepheralive,andforgetmyself. Ienjoyexperiencingnewenergiesandexperiment- ingwithmycraft.Iliketojumpintocoldwater AM:How didyoupreparefortheroleofHurrem withoutknowingtheoutcome.Iliketheriskof Sultan?Didyoureaduponherlife? findinganswersduringthecourseofajourney.I Iworkedverycloselywiththescriptwriteranddidex- lovemakingmistakesandfindingawaytofeel tensiveresearchonHurremusinghistorybooksandthe betterlateron.Iloveseeingthecompleteprocessof mycharactersunfold.Iaspiretoworkwithnewdi- internetasreferences.Itwasacombinationofthetwo rectorsandlearnfrom theirvision.Iam drivenby passion. arabianmoda.com|11



MonteCarloTelevisionFestival: DarrenStar It’sanhonor.Iseethatallover theworld.SomeoneinMorocco orRussiawouldbetalkingabout anAmericanshow,writtenforan American audience,thattran- scendsplaceand geographical barriers. PhotosCourtesy:Monte-CarloTVFestival Alot,forinstanceBeverlyHills90210wasabouttelling SexandtheCityonHBOcablewehadmoreliber- realstoriesofteenagersandfightingwiththenetworkto tytomoveforwardandbedaring. showtherealityofthegenerationandtolimitthecensor- ship.NetworkTVwasbehindtheculturesoluckilywith arabianmoda.com|13

























PhotosCourtesy:GuoPei Meet GuoPei, China’sMost Prominent FashionDesigner ongoingpassionforfashion,herproudachieve- mentsandmore. AM:Pleasetellusallaboutyourprofessional route IstartedoffasaReady-to-Weardesigner,atatime when theChinesefashion industry wasvery strongandgrowing.Forinstance,onedesignof uoPeiisahouseholdnameinherhomecountry minewouldsellupto50thousandpieces.Then China.Intheoccident,sheismostlyknownfor thefollowing10years,IworkedwithalotofChi- theRihannaMetGaladress,whichtook nesecelebrities.Idressedalmost90% ofChinese morethan2yearsinthemakingandbecomeanInternet singersandactorswhoappearedonnationaltele- sensation.ThisphenomenonofadresslistedherinTime visioninfrontofmillionsofspectators.And15 Magazine’s100MostInfluentialPeoplelist. yearsago,IstarteddoingHauteCouture.Ialways wishedtomakeabigdress,themostbeautifulin GuoPeiarrivedtoParisafewyearsagowhenshebecame theworld.Itwasmywaytoexpressmyfeelings partofthehighestauthorityofFrenchfashion,theFédéra- andmyinterpretationofbeauty,andsoIeventual- tiondelaHauteCoutureetdelaMode.Herdesignshave lybecomethefirstChinesedesignertobeinvited beendisplayedinmuseums,andwornbyroyaltyandhigh asamemberoftheFédérationdelaHauteCou profilepersonalities.AlargerthanlifeGuoPeidresstakes tureetdelaModeinFrance. monthsofworkanditscostisaninvestmentforgenerations AM:Someofyourdressestakeyearsofdeli- tocome. Themasterdesigner,whostartedacareeralmostthirty catework.Sohowisthecreativeprocesslike? yearsago,nowleadsanempireofmorethan400employees Everyoneiscuriousaboutmyinspirationandmy with 200 artists dedicated to embroidery. ideas,andIalsohadthesamequestionwhenIwas From herheadquartersin Paris,Guo Peishared her arabianmoda.com|26















Q&Awith PhotosCourtesy:GeorgesChakra Lebanese Designer Georges Chakra GeorgesChakrabelongstothefirstgenerationofLebanese fashiondesignerswhotookcouturebeyondthecapital Beirut.Sincethe1980s,hisdesignshavetranscendedthe regularnormsandestablishedabalancebetweenthe modernOrientandtheEuropeansavoir-faire.Fromhis headquartersinParis,wesatdownwithGeorgestolearn moreabouttheaccomplishedcouturier. A M:Howdidyoustartyourgloriouscareer? Iwasfirstasaninteriordesignstudent,which couldexplainwhythere’salotofstructured dressesinmycollections.However,Ichangedtofashion designinCanadaanddidinternshipsinNewYork.Inthe mid80sImovedbacktoBeirutwhereIstartedmysmall atelieranditgrewyearafteryear. AM:Howwouldyoudescribeyourcreativeprocess? AM:Aproudcareermoment? Itdependsonseveralthings;itcouldbeatravel,afilmoran WhenIsawmyclothesinTheDevilWearsPrada unordinaryclientwhoinspiresme.Thereisnotypicalpro- film,theproductionaskedforsomethingglam- cessasitchangeseverytimeandcan’tbepre-planned.All ourousandunordinaryandsomydesignsmadeit myworkisaboutbeingcreativeandinthemoment. tothesilverscreen. AM:Why isParisso importantto you and your AM:Awordofadviceforthenewgeneration Maison? ofdesigners? EversinceIwasastudent,Idreamtaboutshowcasingin Theyhavetobeoptimisticbutworkhard.Yes, Parisandithasbeenmorethan20yearsthatIpresentmy socialmediamakesiteasiertogainpublicity,yet collectionshere.It’ssomethingIamveryproudof. youhavetoremainhumbleandtohavea180-de- AM:InafewwordswhoistheGeorgesChakrawoman? greevisiontoseewhat’shappening,whatarethe Sheissophisticated,shedoesn’trevealalotofherbody,she newmaterialsonthemarket,andaboveall,chal- iselegant,intellectualandmodern. lengeyourselfandavoidrepetition. arabianmoda.com|34

PhotosCourtesy:GeorgesChakra “Sheissophisticated,shedoesn’treveala lotofherbody,sheiselegant,intellectual andmodern.” arabianmoda.com|35









PhotosCourtesy:Valentino BestofCouture MaisonValentino’scouturecollectionisalineupofimageriesthatlookslike walkingpaintings,bothliterallyandfiguratively.FortheValentinoDesAteliers, creativedirectorPierpaoloPicciolireachedouttopaintersandmergedthe savoir-faireofhisatelierwiththatofadrawer’sfantasy.Grandioseballgowns worthyofaVenetiancarnival,thecitywheretheshowtookplace,sculpturedin strongcolors,withlongandlayeredfabricscateredforafairytaleofmusic,the- atreandcinema,formenandwomen. arabianmoda.com|40

PhotosCourtesy:AlexisMabille TheFemmeFleur;awomanwhoimpersonatesaflower,oraflowerthatbirthsa woman?Eitherwayit’sallaboutthebloomingandcelebrationofcouturewith FrenchdesignerAlexisMabille.Rosebuds,bouquetsoftulipsintimidandpow- erfulshadeswereimaginedforastrongandanoptimisticcomebackoffashion. arabianmoda.com|41

ZuhairMuradisnotonlycelebratingthereturnofcatwalkshowsto PhotosCourtesy:ZuhairMurad Paris,butalsotherebirthofhisbrandandatelierfollowingtheBeirut explosion.AndwhatbetterwaythantothinkofacitylikeVenice?An islandofenchantingstoriesextravagantartsyandajoyouscarnival. TheLebanesecouturieralwaysdesignsforthewomanwhois determinedtostealthelights. arabianmoda.com|42

DanielRoseberryforSchiaparelliistheheatedtalkofthetown PhotosCourtesy:Schiaparelli inParisandHollywood.Injustafewmonthshisredcarpets lookshaveturnedheadsandfueledfashiondebatesasherefer- encesandreimaginestheElsaSchiaparelliDNA.Roseberry’s groundbreakingcouturejewelryisdevelopingastrongfollowing onitsownandtakingthehousetothenextlevel. arabianmoda.com|43

Pastelcolorsandfloralpatternsarethepillarsof PhotosCourtesy:ElieSaab ElieSaab’scoutureforthisseason.TheBudsofHope collectionrepresentsthemuch-neededaspirationalfactor theworldingeneral,andthefashionmétierinparticular, islongingfor.Generousonthevolumesandthetextiles oftulle,chiffonandorganza,theinnovativeembroidery hastobethemoststrikingelement.Floralpatternsseem tobefloatinginathree-dimensionalspaceandare delicatelystitchedwithanextremeattentionto detailfromeveryangle. arabianmoda.com|44

Morethan50yearsafterthemastercouturierCristóbal PhotosCourtesy:Balenciaga Balenciagaexitedthehautecouturesector,thecurrent headofthehouse,DemnaGvasalia,isbringingback thelegacyandhistoryofBalenciaga.Notjusta homage,butalsoamoderncontinuityofCristóbal’s work,isshowcasedonmade-to-measurepieces.The collectionwhichhappenstobethehouse’s50thcouture collectionisaverypromising relaunchofthegoldenepoqueoffashion. “Coutureisthehighestlevelofgarmentconstruction, thatisnotonlyrelevantintoday’smass-productivein- dustry,butevenabsolutelynecessaryforthesurvival andfurtherevolutionofmodernfashion,” commentedDemna. arabianmoda.com|45

PhotosCourtesy:GeorgesHobeika TheflamboyanceoftheModMovementis transformed into coutureartby Maison GeorgesHobeika.Eclecticcolorsareseen onfeathersandfineembroiderycraftingan armyofflowinggownsalldisplayedina breathtakinglocationofHobeika’shome- land,Lebanon. arabianmoda.com|46

PhotosCourtesy:StéphaneRolland Waves,strongwindandaturbulentsky, arabianmoda.com|47 theStéphaneRollandcouturecollection reflectsnatureinallitsstates.Biggerthan lifepieces,sculpturedwithyellow and whiteasdominantcolors,hisRoman-in- spiredgownsarepairedwithearthyand statementjewelrybyartistBéatriceSerre.

PhotosCourtesy:Dior Museum-worthy couture de- servesalocationlikethedreamy Parisian Rodin Museum.This season creative director Maria GraziaChiuricarriedonherpassion forbooks,feministsymbolsandmodern art.Dior’srunawayisasilkchamberunveil- ingfinepieces,somearesolidanddark,others areetherealwithfloraldetailsknowntobeas ChristianDior’ssweetspot. arabianmoda.com|48



PhotosCourtesy:AlexandreVauthier Mostlyblackwithawholelot ofdiamondscanbeseenall overtheAlexandreVauthier couturecollection.Thespark- lyglamourofashowgirl meetstheedginessoftheVau- thierwomanthroughthe mixingofcodesasheseam- lesslytransformselementsof entertainmenttoeveningwear. arabianmoda.com|50