Inspired by the Surrealist game Exquisite Corpse, in which a group randomly assembles words or images, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele turned out a collage-like, characteristically eccentric lineup. Coat, $8,500,skirt, $3,600, beret, $475, tights, $290, platforms, $1,980, Gucci.
Dubbed the “King of Cling,” Monsieur Alaïa was known for his sinuous knits, a house signature Pieter Mulier is committed to carrying on. Dress, $1,430, pants, $7,510, shoulder bag, $2,400, Alaïa.
Playful, maximalist takes on suiting were a Franco Moschino stock-in-trade, and Jeremy Scott is following in his fashionable footsteps. Jacket, $2,815, blouse, $1,295, skirt, $1,125, necklace, $900, belt, $1,460, pumps, $1,400, Moschino. Tights, Wolford, $60.
Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson has been a key proponent of fashion’s Surrealist revival. For fall, he drew inspiration from artists of the period—as with this shearling- trimmed dress, evoking Meret Oppenheim’s notorious fur cup and saucer. Dress, $5,100, sandals, $950, Loewe.
Mashing up time periods is a Nicolas Ghesquière trademark. Here, the Louis Vuitton creative director combines throwback suiting with modern- day glitz (and kicks).Coat, dress, shirt, tie,sneakers, Louis Vuitton. BEAUTY TIP For healthy hair, try a nourishing serum, like Sisley-Paris Hair Rituel Soothing Rebalancing Cure($142), to calm the scalp.
Matthew M. Williams looked to ornamental motifs from Hubert de Givenchy’s archives, like ruffles and pearls, and mingled them with his own streetwear influences. Tops, skirt, boots, handbag, $4,750, Givenchy.
HAIR BY DIEGO DA SILVA AT CALLISTE AGENCY; MAKEUP BY TOM PECHEUX FOR YVES SAINT LAURENT BEAUTY; MANICURES BY HUBERTE CESARION AT Michael Kors MARIE-FRANCE THAVONEKHAM AGENCY; CASTING BY ANDREA PRATO AND DANIEL VON DER GRAF; MODELS: BEAUISE FERWERDA AT PLATFORM, LUOYI AT often riffs on his OUI MANAGEMENT, LAURA REYES AT IMG, PUCK SCHROVER AT DNA, AND JADI WEGENER AT VIVA; PRODUCED BY LOUIS2 PARIS. Studio 54 days, where this disco- fabulous ensemble would fit right in. Jumpsuit, $2,490, wrap (in hand), $4,590, Michael Kors Collection.
Gabriela Hearst took the famously feminine Chloé in a more androgynous direction this season, looking to Stanford professor Emanuele Lugli’s scholarship on gender and art history. Coat, Chloé, $9,170.
The go-go micromini, a Versace staple, gets grounded with an oversize blazer. Jacket, $7,925, T-shirt, $650, skirt, $2,025, stockings, $2,025, chokers, from $625, gloves, platforms, $1,525, Versace. BEAUTY TIP After styling, apply JVN Complete Nourishing Shine Drops ($22) from mid-lengths to ends to make your hair look extra glossy.
The classic Bar jacket, part of Dior’s groundbreaking New Look, gets a revamp under Maria Grazia Chiuri’s expert supervision. Jacket, skirt, headband, necklace, boots,Dior.
Drawing on Bottega Veneta’s leather heritage, Matthieu Blazy created one of the showpieces of the season: a swingy skirt in an unforgettable purple shade. Sweater, skirt, earrings, pumps, Bottega Veneta. For details, see Shopping Guide.
Jumpsuit, Alexandre Vauthier, $1,650. Bulgari Eden The Garden of Wonders earrings, necklace, rings, Bulgari.
e BUSY ACTRESS EIZA GONZÁLEZ, BULGARI’S FIRST LATINA AMBASSADOR FOR NORTH AMERICA, SHINES BRIGHT FROM THE ROOFTOPS OF LONDON. PHOTOGRAPHED BY GREG WILLIAMS. STYLED BY CHARLES VARENNE. i Rising z
Coat, Prada. Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewelry watch, Bulgari. Ankle boots, Dolce & Gabbana, $1,425. BEAUTY TIP Achieve shiny, sleek locks by applying OGX Smoothing + Liquid Pearl Luminescent Serum ($8) to damp hair, then styling as usual.
eetering high above the city of London feels an apt way to cap- ture rising star Eiza González. The Mexico City–born actress has enjoyed quite the year, shuttling between the UK and NYC for two major projects: Apple TV+’s climate-change drama Extrapolations, and Netflix’s sci-fi series The Three-Body Problem. “I haven’t done TV for 10 years,” says González, who got her start early in telenovelas and managed to navigate the treach- erous waters from teen stardom to adult success. “This is the creative aid I needed, to really live and breathe the character for a long period of time and to shadow different directors, which is something that you rarely get to do in film.” Which invites the question of where González is next setting her sights. “Of course I want to direct, but it scares me to death,” González says. “I think a lot of my fear comes from being an immigrant woman and forever feeling like I was asking for permission to just be here, despite knowing that I’m talented and have earned my place.” It’s precisely González’s candor about her experience, in ad- dition to her visibility, that makes her appointment as a brand ambassador for Roman high jewelry house Bulgari—the first Latina for North America—so meaningful. “I’m so incredibly honored to work with the Bulgari family,” González says. “And I love that their jewelry embodies this incredible feminini- ty while also feeling contemporary, bridging Old Hollywood glamour with modernity.” It’s impossible to see the glamor- ous González sporting such Bulgari icons as the articulated diamond Serpenti necklace and watch and not be reminded of another Mexican actress (and passionate jewelry collector), the late icon María Félix, whom González is set to play in an upcoming biopic that she is also producing. Like Félix, González has her own unique relationship with jewelry: “I made my first significant jewelry purchase about 15 years ago, after receiving my first big paycheck,” González says. “It was a watch. I felt I had earned it and I viewed it as a smart investment.” The actress sees jewelry as a timeless store of not just monetary value, but memories, whether evoked by family heirlooms or her own red-carpet moments with Bulgari. “Being a brand ambassador is not just putting me in the public eye, it’s having a larger impact on my life—my personal history as a woman with my own family,” says González, who has gifted her mother and brother with Bulgari pieces. “And one day, my grand- children will see these ELLE photos and say, ‘My grandmother wore this!’”—NAOMI ROUGEAU 113
Dress, Alaïa, $5,200. High Jewelry Serpenti earrings, bracelet, Bulgari. HA IR BY C HRISTI AN W OOD AT T HE WA LL GROUP ; MA KE UP BY NIKKI W OL FF; PRO DUCE D BY BOB FORD A ND CORD EL I A MAC D ONA L D.
“I THINK A LOT OF MY FEAR COMES FROM BEING AN IMMIGRANT WOMAN AND FOREVER FEELING LIKE I WAS ASKING FOR PERMISSION TO JUST BE HERE. BUT I KNOW I’M TALENTED AND I’VE EARNED MY PLACE.” Coat, leggings, $650, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. High Jewelry Serpenti necklace, ring, Bulgari. For details, see Shopping Guide.
Shopping Guide COVER (NYC). PAGE 69: nationwide. PAGE alexandrevauthier. MIKAELA SHIFFRIN ANA DE ARMAS Jonathan Simkhai, 92: Saint Laurent by com. Bulgari Polo shirt, hoop jonathansimkhai.com. Anthony Vaccarello, Eden The Garden CONTINUED FROM PAGE 69 earrings, $715, by Saint Laurent (NYC). of Wonders, Louis Vuitton, ANA’S GETAWAY PAGE 93: Balenciaga, 800-BVLGARI . deal with. So why not try to relate to that 866-VUITTON. PAGE 75: balenciaga. PAGES 112–113: on some level?” Rings by Marie- Gabriela Hearst, com. PAGE 94: Prada, prada. Hélène de Taillac, gabrielahearst. Chanel, select com. Bulgari FOR MOST OF SPORTS HISTORY, professional from $850, com. Fleur du Mal, Chanel boutiques Serpenti Misteriosi athletes were expected to be as peerless mariehelenedetaillac- fleurdumal.com. nationwide. PAGE High Jewelry, in mind as they were in body. In making us.com. Negative Underwear, 95: Fendi, fendi. 800-BVLGARI. herself vulnerable, Shiffrin follows greats negativeunderwear. com. PAGE 96: Dolce & Gabbana, like Naomi Osaka and Simone Biles, who TABLE OF com. Marie- Prada, prada.com. 877-70-DGUSA. have publicly prioritized their mental CONTENTS Hélène de Taillac, PAGE 97: Giorgio PAGE 114: Alaïa, well-being. Osaka tells me that, taken PAGE 20: Michael mariehelenedetaillac- Armani, armani. maison-alaia. together, these decisions by sports stars Kors Collection, us.com. Louis com. PAGE 98: Max com. Bulgari High to speak up and opt out are shepherding michaelkors. Vuitton, louisvuitton. Mara, maxmara. Jewelry Serpenti, in a new era—one where it’s okay to not com. Bulgari High com. PAGES com. PAGE 99: Gucci, 800-BVLGARI. be okay. “More than ever, athletes are Jewelry Serpenti, 76–77: Louis Vuitton, gucci.com. PAGE PAGE 115: Coat by speaking up without shame or stigma, 800-BVLGARI. 866-VUITTON. 100: Alaïa, maison- Saint Laurent by and rather than being looked at as weak, PAGES 78–79: Flora alaia.com. PAGE Anthony Vaccarello, they are being regarded as human,” she EDITOR’S LETTER and Henri, florahenri. 101: Moschino, Saks $15,000, Saint says. “This needs to become the standard PAGE 24: Celine com. Falke, falke. Fifth Avenue stores Laurent (NYC). rather than the exception.” by Hedi Slimane, com. Celine by Hedi nationwide. Wolford, Bulgari High celine.com. Marie- Slimane, celine. wolfordshop.com. Jewelry Serpenti, At the depth of her struggles, Shiffrin Hélène de Taillac, com. PAGES 80–81: PAGE 102: Loewe, 800-BVLGARI. considered retiring from ski racing alto- mariehelenedetaillac- Bulgari, bulgari.com. loewe.com. PAGE gether and going to medical school, like us.com. Falke, PAGE 82: Polo Ralph 103: Louis Vuitton, HOROSCOPE her dad, or becoming a marine biolo- falke.com. Lauren, ralphlauren. louisvuitton.com. PAGE 118: Necklace gist. But speaking out helped her “sort com. PAGES PAGE 104: Givenchy, by Sorellina, $17,500, through her brokenhearted soul and ACCESSORIES 84–85: Louis Vuitton, givenchy.com. twistonline.com. emotionally devastated brain,” Eileen PAGE 43: Bracelet louisvuitton.com. PAGE 105: Michael says. Just as Shiffrin was ready to write by Wempe, $23,775, PAGES 86–87: Celine Kors Collection, EDITOR’S herself off, she came back one month wempe.com. by Hedi Slimane, michaelkors.com. NOTE after the Beijing Olympics and made Celine (NYC). PAGE PAGE 106: Chloé, Price correction for a World Cup podium in Lenzerheide, SHOP 89: Skims, skims. chloe.com. PAGE 107: New Arrivals, page Switzerland, with fans like tennis great PAGE 48: Earring com. The Attico, Versace, versace.com. 41, May 2022 issue: Roger Federer, who owns a house near- by Almasika, theattico.com. PAGE 108: Dior, The Kelly Watch by by, cheering her on. After placing sec- $3,300 (for pair), 800-929-DIOR. Hermès, $16,200, ond, she told reporters: “I finally just twistonline.com. HOUSE PROUD PAGE 109: hermes.com. enjoyed skiing for a day.” She would go PAGE 90: Valentino, Bottega Veneta, on to win the World Cup Overall, pos- MIKAELA Valentino Garavani, bottegaveneta.com. Prices are ing for photos with the 20-pound crys- SHIFFRIN IS STILL Valentino boutiques approximate. tal globe that goes to all champs. It was THE BEST SKIER nationwide. EIZA ELLE recommends her fourth world title, tying her with IN THE WORLD PAGE 91: Dolce & RISING that merchandise the previous American record holder, PAGES 66–67: Marni, Gabbana, Dolce & availability be Lindsey Vonn. Another trophy for her Bergdorf Goodman Gabbana boutiques PAGES 110–111: checked with already-crowded case. Alexandre Vauthier, local stores. There are still more records to break ELLE (ISSN 0888-0808) (Volume XXXVII, Number 10) (August 2022) is published monthly by and World Cups to win. Shiffrin plans Hearst, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 USA. Steven R. Swartz, President and Chief to return next ski season armed with Executive Officer; William R. Hearst III, Chairman; Frank A. Bennack, Jr., Executive Vice Chairman. new insight and that signature swagger Hearst Magazine Media, Inc.: Debi Chirichella, President; Kate Lewis, Chief Content Officer; Regina on the slopes that never wavered, not Buckley, Chief Financial and Strategy Officer & Treasurer; Catherine A. Bostron, Secretary. © 2022 even at her nadir. Until then, she’s mak- by Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. All rights reserved. ELLE® is used under license from the trademark ing time for herself: getting massages, owner, Hachette Filipacchi Presse. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing checking books off her must-read list, offices. Canada Post International Publications mail product (Canadian distribution) sales watching Yellowstone with her mom, agreement No. 40012499. Editorial and Advertising Offices: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY and making up riffs on the guitar, which 10019. Subscription Prices: United States and possessions: $15 for one year. Canada: $48 for one she took up during quarantine. She has year. Other international locations: $87 for one year. Subscription Services: ELLE will, upon receipt also started seeing a grief counselor, of a complete subscription order, undertake fulfillment of that order so as to provide the first copy which helps her cope with her father’s for delivery by the Postal Service or alternate carrier within 4–6 weeks. For customer service, death. Back at her house in Colorado, changes of address, and subscription orders, log on to service.elle.com or write to Customer Service Shiffrin shows me a patinaed thumb Dept., ELLE, P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037. From time to time, we make our subscriber list ring on her left hand. 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WHEN THE DOCTOR have an option for accountability when mother saw a random post on Facebook IS IN YOUR DNA surprise DNA test results surface, often that stated two blue-eyed parents can’t decades later. have a brown-eyed child. “And I have CONTINUED FROM PAGE 73 very dark eyes,” says Dixon, 32, who lives Some accused doctors have insisted in Ottawa. A paternity test confirmed that donor sperm was not working, he would they were simply trying to fulfill their Dixon’s dad was not her biological father; augment it with another anonymous patients’ desire to have a baby at a time it was their fertility specialist in Ottawa, sample in order to increase the likelihood when sperm samples were harder to Norman Barwin, MD. That same year, of conception, and that the couple con- come by. “[McMorries’s] attorney end- Dixon sued Barwin, alleging he used his sented to that approach. He never sug- ed up quoting my mother saying that own sperm or the wrong sperm, accord- gests, however, that he informed them she desperately wanted to conceive and ing to her lawsuit. Dixon, an only child, that those anonymous samples might be would have tried anything,” Wiley says. remembers the emotional experience his own, rather that he was only trying But she finds that explanation disingen- of getting a phone call indicating that to help the couple conceive. McMorries uous. “It’s the same strategy that abusers one of her half sisters wanted to meet. has said because he had consent to use an use in sexual harassment cases—blame “There were tears streaming down my anonymous donor, he had no obligation victims and present themselves as the face,” she says. “The idea of having a sis- to inform Wiley’s parents that he would injured party.” The cold, detached, and ter was something I had never been able be a donor. His tone breezy, he invited sometimes flippant attitude exhibited to imagine before.” During the pandem- Wiley and her mother to visit him and by some of the accused doctors can also ic, the half siblings had a regular Zoom his son, now in practice with him. But complicate efforts to pursue personal call. And many of her half siblings joined Wiley pressed him. “I want to believe connection. When Traci Portugal got the Dixon’s lawsuit to make it a class action, you, and I want to believe this came from shocking results of a home DNA test in which was settled in 2021 for over $13.3 an altruistic place in helping a couple 2019, according to testimony she gave in million (Canadian). According to a CBC conceive,” she wrote. “You must know support of fertility fraud legislation being report, Barwin denied all legal claims how this looks given everything I was considered in Washington State, she de- throughout the lawsuit, and maintains provided with. However, I can’t imag- cided to reach out to the fertility doctor that the negotiated settlement is not an ine my parents agreeing to their fertility she identified as her father. “Despite an admission of wrongdoing. In 2019, the doctor fathering their child.” (McMorries initial discussion with the doctor about Discipline Committee of the College of declined to comment for this article.) my findings, he has continued to ignore Physicians and Surgeons of Ontario re- all further requests to provide answers of voked Barwin’s medical license and or- DISGUSTED AND DISTRAUGHT, Wiley what happened or to provide important dered him to pay a fine after determining reached out to attorneys—only to be medical history for me and my children,” that he had engaged in professional mis- advised that McMorries did not vio- Portugal said in her testimony. “As such conduct by using his own sperm or the late Texas law and that a civil action I continue to feel physically violated by wrong sperm with women seeking in- was unlikely to be successful. And so those we should have been able to trust.” semination treatments. Wiley filed a medical board complaint For her, reckoning with the fact that her against McMorries in 2019. The medical doctor father simply doesn’t care has While no one is obligated to turn their board filed a formal complaint against been the hardest part. “After that, I went pain into purpose, many of the women in- McMorries with the Texas State Office to a pretty dark place,” Portugal says. “My volved in this advocacy movement have of Administrative Hearings, but he chal- husband had to work from home to make found refuge in the pursuit of system- lengedthat complaintby claimingitwas sure I didn’t do anything stupid.” ic change—though it comes at a price. outside a seven-year statute of limita- “My current label of ‘the girl whose gy- tions. McMorries maintained his license Portugal’s efforts to heal have been necologist was her father’ is not a thrill- and continued to practice until his re- multipronged. In addition to supporting ing position to be in,” Hellquist says. “But tirement in 2021. He has never admit- fertility fraud legislation in Washington this was the only option I saw as a way to ted to any wrongdoing, or been found State, presently being considered by hold him accountable. I don’t want any to have violated any law or ethical rule. house and state senate sponsors, she other woman to pick up the phone and found comfort in Facebook support have someone tell her, ‘There’s nothing The stunning lack of recourse turned groups. “It’s so helpful to know you’re you can do.’” Still, it can be hard to get up Wiley into an activist. Her Instagram not alone,” she says. The sense of commu- every day and hold your hand over the account, once full of images of herself nity—she refers to the other members as flame. Hellquist’s initial reaction to her with a perfect blowout, smiling with an her “siblings”—spurred her to create her paternity shock was a mix of revulsion arm around her husband, or beaming at own website, Donor Deceived, in which and shame. She blamed herself for not her joyful children in matching pastel she offers resources and maps dozens of severing the relationship sooner. “My outfits, has gradually given way to all- donor fraud cases around the world. She gut was trying to tell me he’s not a good text posts that indicate her laser focus also collects testimonials from stunned dude,” she says. “And I kept wanting to on criminalizing fertility fraud. She’s individuals struggling with their sud- believe my mom’s miracle story.” working her way across the country, den new identities, strained family re- partnering with victims and lawmak- lationships, and dozens of potential half ButthethingthatnowspursHellquist ers on bills state by state. Wiley start- siblings. “I was uneasy with the circum- on is her 13-year-old daughter, who she ed with Texas, which became the first stances through which I came into the hopes will benefit from evolving con- state to classify fertility fraud as sexual world,” writes one anonymous woman. versations about consent, bodily auton- assault in 2019. “It’s important that these “Knowing who my biological father was omy, and the right to walk out on any initiatives are victim-led,” Wiley says. became a burdensome gift.” “skeevy” situation without internalizing “It has been so central to my healing.” self-doubt. “I could not look her in the She’s also lobbying Texas for an exemp- Some women have had better luck face one day and tell her that I did not tion to the prevailing seven-year statute forging ties with their newfound siblings. use my voice,” Hellquist says. “That I did of limitations—ensuring that women In 2016, Rebecca Dixon’s parents began nothing about it.” ▪ to doubt her father’s paternity after her 117
Horoscope ASTRO AUGUSTT W I N S This month is about partnership, from matching outfits to collabs. Mars is in Gemini for the first time in two years, enjoying an extended voyage from August 20 to March 25, 2023. Normally, Mars dwells in a single sign for seven weeks, but thanks to its biennial retrograde, we get seven months of cooperative energy. Pairing is caring! LEO “THE STRENGTH CARD SAGITTARIUS ARIES COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER; FOR DETAILS, SEE SHOPPING GUIDE. IN A TAROT DECK IS JULY 23–AUG 22 ASSOCIATED WITH NOV 22–DEC 21 MAR 21–APR 19 LEO. IT SHOWS TRUE Your squad is about to learn STRENGTH WHEN WE So many offers, so little time! You’re a bona fide original, just how high you can turn ACT FROM COMPASSION With Mars in Gemini doubling but proactive Mars pushes up your enthusiasm. As Mars INSTEAD OF FORCE.” down in your partnership you to find others this August. invigorates your collaborative —NICOLE CAROSELLA, zone, you’ll be fielding They may be close by. Mingle eleventh house, fill your dance CODESIGNER, SORELLINA requests left and right. Your locally to scout a new squad, or card. Your festival plus-one newfound popularity could organize a meetup of thought doesn’t have to be your GOLD, SAPPHIRE, strain your time, so say leaders. What starts as picnic workout buddy. An open EMERALD, DIAMOND, no to invites that aren’t in conversation could evolve into a approach takes the pressure off AND MALACHITE LA alignment with your objectives. groundbreaking collaboration. relationships that are too close. FORZA TAROT CARD Conserve your energy for PENDANT NECKLACE, opportunities and relationships TAURUS VIRGO SORELLINA, that can go the distance. TWISTONLINE.COM APR 20–MAY 20 AUG 23–SEPT 22 CAPRICORN LIBRA Money matters benefit from Wherever your loyalties lie, DEC 22–JAN 19 partnership while Mars cruises expect to become a lot more SEPT 23–OCT 22 through your cash-friendly public about your beliefs. Mars in your helpful sixth house second house. This is no time As Mars rises to the top of Conflict avoidance may be a makes acts of service your love to loosen up formalities. Spell your chart, it hands you the Libra specialty, but as Mars language, but who’s going to out terms, whether that means leadership mantle. Where do enters your candid ninth house be there for you? Find people setting an hourly rate or splitting you want to direct people’s this August, you won’t be able who can fill in gaps in your profits. Clarity is the best attention? Allies will show up to stomach inauthenticity in planner. Maybe it’s a trainer to insurance for ongoing goodwill. to support the causes you’re your relationships. Suddenly, keep your workouts impactful or backing. Remember this old you’re the one calling people a meal delivery service. Create GEMINI chestnut: With great power on the carpet and confessing a healthy flow of give-and-take comes great responsibility. to buried desires that could so you can support your people MAY 21–JUNE 21 rock a cargo ship. While this without burning yourself out. may clear a few decks, knowing Trendsetters pull ahead in who can ride these waves AQUARIUS August, but temper competitive with you will be affirming. urges. With Mars in your sign JAN 20–FEB 18 for seven months, the crown SCORPIO is yours. Use it with care, since Consider who truly sees you. victory can be intimidating. Be OCT 23–NOV 21 With Mars energizing your zone gracious, and the quiet person of fame and self-expression, could become an ally for life. You’re nobody’s sidepiece, so surround yourself with a crew if you’re being treated like less that amplifies your shine. While CANCER than a VIP, level the playing your passionate side might not field. Begin flowing your be for everyone, toning it down JUNE 22–JULY 22 precious energy toward other is not an option during this vivid relationships. The dynamic seven-month cycle. Reciprocity Embracing uncertainty isn’t distance should soon wake up remains essential, so use any your way, but while Mars free- the offender to what they’re newfound attention to signal- falls through your twelfth house, missing. But here’s the twist: boost your friends in return. it’s the path to security. You can Autonomy may become your never fully know someone. Stop new jam as you reconnect PISCES looking for a guarantee, and with lost parts of yourself. enjoy the exchange of energy. FEB 19–MAR 20 See the AstroTwins, Tali Fortify your inner circle, and Ophira Edut, in Cosmic because for the coming seven Love, out on Amazon Prime months, your relationship Video this month. mantra is quality over quantity. Reconnect to relatives and close friends. You’ll need support during this emotional cycle, which can heighten your sensitive nature. If dynamics feel strained, find one-on- one time. Long lunches or a getaway can be healing salves.
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