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Beauty KAUMANN: PHOTOGRAPHED BY GUIDO PAL AU; DEBORAH PAGANI DP PIN: RUSSELL STARR. Do the LARGE DP PIN, DEBORAH PAGANI, FROM $90, TWIST DEBORAHPAGANI.COM This otherworldly take on the chignon, created for Schiaparelli by legendary hairstylist Guido Palau, was inspired by the aerodynamic helmets worn by cyclists. “It feels traditional and classic because it’s very polished,” Palau says, but “it has a foot in the future because of the elongated shape of the back, which gives it an alien-y feeling.” Model Iman Kaumann’s of-the-moment copper hair color and septum piercing also root it firmly in the present. Palau used a sculpted pad for shape, but you can try an easier technique by using an old-school hair secret, recently rediscovered by the TikTok set (watch @the_minimal_hair for the perfect how-to). Create a sleek updo with a simple twist, securing the hair with a U-shaped pin that offers more texture and volume than a regular elastic or bobby pins. “Whatever way you do it, there’s something so beautiful about how it lengthens the neck and creates such elegant proportions,” Palau adds.—MARGAUX ANBOUBA

Beauty The COOL CLUB Chilled skin care tools are the hottest trend. alk to your freezer and take out an ice cube. W And there you have summer’s hottest beau- ty secret, which just happens to be ice cold. By simply rolling the ice cube across your face, you can see instant benefits: glowy skin, reduced inflammation, and decreased redness. Ice has been an insid- er secret for ages (recall Joan Crawford’s morning ice bath ritual, portrayed by Faye Dunaway in Mommie Dearest), but is now making a big comeback: Irina Shayk, Jasmine Tookes, and Tracee Ellis Ross have all used ice rolling tools in their beauty routines on social media. “YOU DON’T WANT IT TO FEEL UNCOMFORTABLE. BUT YOU WANT Makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench posted IT TO FEEL SURPRISING.” an Instagram video of Bella Hadid chan- neling the ice bath scene from Mommie Dearest. And Google searches for ice rollers have jumped nearly 58 percent since last year, according to search data forever, but it’s a good fix.” While most cold can cause blood circulation prob- of the benefits are temporary, Naana lems to the skin...as well as decrease per- from Spate, while TikTok videos with Boakye, MD, an Englewood Cliffs, New meability to skin care ingredients and Jersey, dermatologist, says ice rolling (or nutrients,” he says. the hashtag #iceroller number more applying any cold tool) four to five times a week can help diminish inflammation. For first-timers trying cold therapy at than 58.3 million views. home, Boakye recommends using a roll- Some safety precautions are in order: er, such as the Sacheu Beauty Stainless While you can opt to go straight to Holding a tool on the skin for too long in Steel Facial Roller ($35; sacheu.com), one place may cause so-called freezer to easily target all areas of the face. The the tray in your freezer, many of the tools burn, exacerbating the redness you’re Esarora Ice Roller ($19; amazon.com) is trying to quell—so keep it moving. You a budget-friendly choice with more than on the market, like the stainless steel “don’t want to further injure your skin, 17,000 primarily positive reviews (the icy because that could lead to either more blue tool also popped up on an episode CurrentBody Skin Cryo Roller ($35; redness or more hyperpigmentation,” of Euphoria as Sydney Sweeney’s char- Boakye explains—a particular concern acter Cassie Howard showcased her ob- us.currentbody.com) and the Skin by for those with darker skin tones. For at- sessive morning routine). Sonäge Baby home rolling, she recommends testing Frioz Mini Icy Globes ($54; sonage Brownlee & Co. Cryotherapy Ball ($25; the tool on your forearm before using .com) are petite options that you can MODEL: PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARTA BEVACQUA/TRUNK A RCHIVE; it on your face to ensure it won’t stick use all over your face—but are especial- ICE BACKGROUND: DOUGLAS SACHA/GETTY IMAGES. skinbybrownleeandco.com), will stay to (and tear) the skin. Prep your skin by ly easy to roll around delicate eye skin. applying a serum or moisturizer, advises Whether you’re using a skin care tool or cold longer and are specially designed for Howard Sobel, MD, clinical attending a bowl of ice water, the most important physician in dermatology and derma- thing is to protect your skin. “You don’t the nooks and crannies of the face. These tologic cosmetic surgery at New York’s want it to feel uncomfortable,” Dubroff Lenox Hill Hospital, and roll the device explains. “But you want it to feel surpris- tools also won’t melt and make a mess in for no more than 10 minutes. “Too much ing.”—EMILY BURNS your bathroom. Chanel makeup artist Pati Dubroff, who’s worked with stars like Margot Robbie and Simone Ashley, says she uses cold tools as a quick fix when working on set, especially early in the morning. Dubroff opts for the Joanna Vargas MagicGlowWand ($285; joannavargas .com), which features a cool and a hot setting. For Dubroff, cold tools are great for “anytime you want something to just feel less puffy, saggy, inflamed. It’s not 52

When your no digital underarms distortion are cared for, it shows. sweat and odor protection Dove Advanced Care Dry Spray has a weightless formula that goes on instantly dry for effective protection that’s kind to skin. Because when underarms are healthy and protected, you’re more confident and carefree.

Beauty RIGHT: THE KHADRA TWINS AT BALENCIAGA’S SPRING 2023 SHOW. BELOW: SIMIHAZE BEAUTY VELVET BLUR MINI LIP BALMS, $28 EACH, SIMIHAZEBEAUTY.COM. Two Become One SimiandHazeKhadramade a beauty line—and a new reality. “OH, LET’S MAKE YOU LOOK DIFFERENT!” says Haze February, TMZ posted a video of The Weeknd appearing to kiss KHADRA TWINS: THEHAPABLONDE/BACKGRID; REMAINING IMAGE: COURTESY OF THE BRAND. Khadra. Perched on a marble counter, the Palestinian DJ/beau- Simi. (Through their publicists, the twins would not discuss their ty entrepreneur/street-style star is using my face as a make- love lives.) I do manage to ask how the sisters have cultivated so up-tester palette. Three small chess piece–like lipsticks are in many famous friendships. Storm Reid and Tommy Genesis have her hands; she moves them strategically across my lips. Her eyes been seen wearing their brand. Haze answers serenely, “It’s just glint between green and yellow, like a cat’s. “We try to keep our the times we live in, if that makes sense.” bubble very close,” says her identical twin, Simi, a few weeks later. She’s calling me from Beverly Hills, her voice hoarse from SimiHazeBeautywasbornwhentheduogottiredofsmoosh- a weekend at Coachella. “There’s public and there’s private.… ing lipsticks together to create their desired formula. “Plus, we’d When the lines blur between the two, that’s when people start been putting stickers on our faces forever, because it’s fun,” Haze to have anxiety.… [Before fame], I never had any issues.” says. “But when we realized stickers could be eye makeup, it was this amazing epiphany.” The brand’s Eye Play Dance Packs and “Before” begins on March 31, 1993, when Sama and Haya Eye Play Glitter Packs have sold out three times, and crashed the Abu Khadra were born in Saudi Arabia. (Simi and Haze were line’s website before this year’s Coachella. childhood nicknames, and—“for branding”—became their legal names, too.) Their mother, Rula, operated a fashion boutique in The duo also created their first avatars—figures in neon cat- Riyadh, and by the time the twins were 14, they were tagging suits with the cartoon eyes of a manga dream girl. “Don’t you along with her to Paris Fashion Week. A few seasons and col- ever ask what’s really real?” muses Haze when I ask about the lege semesters later, “we got to be in [Chanel’s] The Little Black twins’ new interest in the metaverse. “Sometimes we feel like Jacket book, which was cool,” Simi says. “But I was in the mid- we’re just floating in space.” dle of finals when we had to go to Paris and shoot it. That was a whole drama.” “Some people don’t think we’re real people, anyway,” sighs Simi, referencing the virtual hate mail lobbed by internet den- Still, the twins graduated with honors. “Then we went to izens. “When people meet us, they’re like, ‘Oh, okay, they’re Coachella,” Haze says, laughing. A friend asked them to deejay actually not monsters but really nice.’” There’s a real sadness in a party at the last minute, and they caught the eye of a major Simi’s voice here, along with an unspoken truth: In the ultramod- music manager. Instagram followers and fame followed, along ern age, fame with a side of hate is the new definition of women with a ringlet-to-ring-light transition in the twins’ aesthetic. In “having it all.” And it has a cost. In this case, it’s a SimiHaze Beauty lip balm that goes for $28.—FARAN KRENTCIL 54



Beauty What I Wish I’d can’t believe that I am talking publicly about Known Before my facelift and that millions of people now Getting a Facelift I knowhowvainIam.ButsinceIdon’tbelievein Makeup artist Jenny Patinkin thought she knew gatekeeping, and this was not a decision I took what she was getting herself into. She was wrong. lightly, I’m embracing the power of transpar- ency and sharing information. Having been in the beauty industry for many years as a make- up artist, beauty expert, author, and brand founder, by the time I hit my late forties, I’d already tried it all: Botox, fillers, lasers, radio frequency, platelet-rich plasma (PRP), LED, microneedling, and microcurrent therapy. Many of those procedures were effective, if not miraculous, and they did help smooth, tighten, and lift. But as I rounded the corner into my fifties, I found these treatments were less and less effective, and I was no longer getting the re- sults I wanted. I was probably in my midforties when I started thinking about getting a lift, and I even had surgery booked at one point, but I was honestly just too chicken to move forward with it. After I hit 50, I felt differently. I reached out to the many plastic surgeons I had met over the years to ask every question I could. I pored over before-and-after photos with the intensity of a forensic scientist, and hounded friends and acquaintances who’d been through it already. I know a lot of people might think I’m crazy for getting sur- gery at the tender age of 53 (or for doing it at all), but according to New York facial plastic surgeon Andrew Jacono, MD, the

LEFT: SLEEPY (2018) BY ROZENN LE GALL; RIGHT: TRUTH (2018) BY ROZENN LE GALL. averageageofafacelift patientinhis practice isbetween47and healing goes through four phases. The first two (hemostasis and 53.WhenIdecided thatMichaelByun, MD,in Chicago wasthe inflammation) are quiet. Proliferation, the third phase, is “quite right plastic surgeon for me, I felt prepared. Calm, even. He has noisy, that’s why you see fluctuations after two to three weeks.” a reputation as the “repairman” of faces, known for putting ev- Wearing a mask was particularly helpful for incognito purposes. erything back where it was. I scheduled a lower- and mid-face lift, along with an upper and lower blepharoplasty (lift) for my YOUR SKIN MAY FEEL eyelids, for September 2021. The surgery was planned for five REALLY STRANGE. hours, and I had a 7 a.m. start time. There are a lot of odd facial sensations after surgery. My skin The road to recovery didn’t go exactly as planned. Despite was so tender that I didn’t so much as splash water on it for a all my due diligence and my surgeon keeping me well-informed of what to expect, I encountered month, throwing my dedication to surprise aftersurprise inreallife. I my skin care routine right out the wish I’d known afewmore things. window. It was also numb, and the So here are six thoughts to keep in crown of my head and my whole mind if you think a facelift might scalp also felt itchy and spongy. be in your future. My head itched for months after- ward. Byun says these reactions THERE CAN BE are “completely normal and ex- UNPLANNED pected” and are even a “great sign” COMPLICATIONS. that the nerves are growing back. As I mentioned, I’d sampled from EATING AND a pupu platter of nonsurgical pro- SLEEPING WILL BE cedures prior to surgery. What I DIFFERENT. didn’t expect is that some of those same stopgap measures could end My doctor said not to eat anything up complicating my surgery. I’d other than soft foods for the first been getting conservative hyal- few weeks after surgery in order uronic fillers in my nasolabial folds to limit the use of the muscles in for years and had filled my cheeks my lower face while chewing. Not once or twice when I was around only could I not get a fork in my 40. Byun says that fillers “can linger and accumulate, especially mouth, I could barely open wide enough to fit my toothbrush. into the muscle and fatty tissue.” He had to remove some during I ate lots of oat milk ice cream and soup. The act of brushing, surgery, because it can bulge when you lift the muscle and skin. swishing, and rinsing was comically messy. Sleeping was a challenge, because my eyes wouldn’t fully close for months. I also had a complication from a previous thread lift. I could manipulate my lids to get them shut, but the muscles According to Byun, most suture thread lifts now use absorbable were pulled so tight they wouldn’t stay closed. The doctor kept sutures, but they cause abnormal scar tracks as they disappear. telling me it would resolve, and of course it did, but it was in- He had to “fight” through the abnormal scarring during my credibly distressing. surgery, which added an extra hour to my procedure (and an extra, unanticipated incision). This alarmed my husband, who YOU MAY WANT TO CHANGE YOUR was actively pacing in the waiting room. PHONE’S SECURITY OPTIONS. IT’S NORMAL TO FEEL REGRET. The facial recognition feature on my iPhone didn’t recognize me for several days. Fair enough, though, because I didn’t either. I had no pain after surgery (literally none). But the emotional toll of the surgery took me by surprise. Maybe it was the unrecogniz- Today, nearly a year and dozens (okay, hundreds) of scrutinizing able face staring back at me in the mirror and the nagging feeling selfies later, I’m delighted by my crisper jawline, higher cheeks, of, “Oh shit, what have I done?” But for the first time in my life, and smoother eyelids. Still, it took me a long time to get to this I had a panic attack, necessitating a middle-of-the-night call to point. For most of those months, I felt like my face just looked my doctor and a prescription for Xanax. In truth, I had been odd, although I was certainly my harshest critic. warned about this by my surgeon’s office, but I assumed that since I was so well-informed and had done so much research, I wish I could definitively say that I would go through it all it wouldn’t happen to me. But it did, and like my post-op face, over again, but because of the emotional strain it put on me— it wasn’t pretty. and on my poor, disconcerted husband—I just can’t say for sure. Outwardly, he was nothing but supportive and encouraging. YOUR FACE WILL MUTATE. Inside, I later found out, he worried about my pain, my emotion- al anguish, and my appearance throughout my entire recovery. I learned that swelling resolves in neither a linear nor symmet- He was beside himself with fear that my face would never get rical way. In the first two weeks after my surgery, I would wake back to normal and that he would have to live with a miserable up every day secure in the knowledge that I would look better wife who’d fucked up her face. Even now, in the “settling” phase, each morning. But then two weeks hit, and boom, as I became which can take up to a year, I still have the occasional moment of more active and rejoined my life, my face would still puff and thinking, “Why on earth did I put myself through this?” I assume swell in odd, uneven, and sometimes alarming ways. My sur- that, as with childbirth, the memory of the trauma will fade, and geon calls the first month after surgery the “Baby Alien” phase. that when my jawline inevitably succumbs to gravity once more, It’s aptly named because while you may look a little younger, I might give it some thought. Might being the operative word. ▪ you also look…otherworldly. Byun explained to me that wound 57

Beauty Why beautyinspiredRETRO RULES bythepast is trending in the present. n a video call earlier this year, Erin Parsons, O Maybelline’s global makeup artist and Gigi Hadid’s go-to beauty guru, is showing me her massive collection of vintage beau- ty products. “I am literally spending my MODEL ADWOA ABOAH (TOP) REFERENCES life savings on this collection; it’s so out of SINGER SADE’S SIGNATURE BEAUTY LOOK FROM 1986 AT THE 2022 BAFTAS. hand. I have probably over 2,000 pieces,” says Parsons, gesturing at powder compacts promoting Franklin D. Roosevelt’s presi- dential campaign, Maybelline’s first mascara from 1917, and Revlon lipsticks from the 1960s designed to look like dolls in fur coats. The popularity of vintage clothing is well-documented, but vintage beauty is fast amassing a fan club of its own. In addition to enthusiastic product collectors like Parsons, there are dozens of nostalgic, beauty-focused Instagram accounts, such as @discon- tinuedmakeup, an ode to ’80s- and ’90s-era cosmetics. TikTok videos with the hashtag #vintagemakeup have logged more than 425 million views thus far. And there are a slew of young Hollywood stars who’ve made retro looks cool: Euphoria’s Alexa Demie collaborated with makeup artist Sam Visser to create her 1930s-style skinny brows; pop star and Versace muse Dua Lipa channeled Donatella herself at the 2022 Grammys; and model Kaia Gerber drew inspiration from Bianca Jagger on the red carpet last September. Vintage beauty also frequently shows up on fashion runways, with throw- back references appearing at the fall 2022 shows, including glossy lips at Victor Glemaud, squared-off nails at Christian Cowan, and bright blue eye shadow at Christian Siriano. Sowhat’s drivingthisaffinityforallthingsvintage?Forstarters,thepackagingisof- ten extraordinary—like intricately adorned refillable compacts from the 1950s and ’60s 58

ABOA H: TRI STA N FEW INGS/ GET T Y I MAGES; LI PST ICK SWI P E: JAY MUCKLE/ST UDIO D; SAD E: PE TE R J ORDAN /A L A MY; CYRUS: ROB ERT made from real brass—or whimsical, like ’90s-era lip gloss rings. KAMAU/GETTY IMAGES; GERBER: ARTURO HOLMES/GETTY IMAGES; MASCARA SWIPE: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D; LIPA: DAVID But there may be a deeper emotional element at play. A June FISHER/SHUTTERSTOCK; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE BRANDS. 2020 article in the journal Frontiers in Psychology suggested that nostalgia helps fight feelings of loneliness, since remembrance is typically a collective experience. As we exit a pandemic and en- ter an uncertain future, scrolling through an Instagram account devoted to images of ’80s supermodels—or hunting for vintage makeup online—may serve as an emotional salve. Claire Mazur, coauthor of Work Wife, tracked down a box of 50 Bonne Bell Lip Lites in Shoutin’ Sugar—her teen obsession. Chelsea Fairless, who cohosts the fashion podcast Every Outfit, has eBay alerts set for Love Cosmetics, “a brand with the most fabulous space-age packaging” (much like Ariana Grande’s R.E.M. Beauty), as well as ’90s-era Hard Candy nail polish, the line whose Sky blue lacquer was reportedly worn by actress Alicia Silverstone for her Clueless press tour. “Hard Candy polish was the ultimate status symbol when I was a tween, and I cannot shake my obsession,” Fairless says. Her current white whale: Hard Candy’s limited-edition Candy Man collec- tion, which was marketed toward guys and boasted shade names like Testosterone (sil- very gray) and Oedipus (forest green). It’s not just individuals looking backward for inspiration. A crop of new beauty brands are also borrowing from the past. TooD, a clean makeup line created by Shari Siadat, a fan and former reader of now-defunct CosmoGirl, enlisted the magazine’s founder and editor-in-chief, Atoosa Rubenstein (also the namesake of the nostalgic Instagram fan account @thankyouatoosa, which pays homage to Y2K-era teen magazines), to col- laborate on the line’s spring 2022 marketing campaign. “We used the bright palette, script fonts, and busy-ness of CosmoGirl, com- bined with TooD’s more modern content,” Rubenstein says. “Regrettably, we had cover lines like 5 Ways to Get Him to Notice You, but TooD’s creative imagery includes trans models andarmpithair withglitter—it’s a GenZriff onthe’90s.” Similarly, cosmetics historian Gabriela Hernandez created Bésame Cosmetics to emulate vintage products, but with mod- ern formulas. Her best-selling Bésame Black Cake Mascara (above right) was inspired by a product from the 1920s, but hers is made of vegetable waxes, rather than the original’s coal tar and soap. Cake mascaras (which come in a compact and require the addition of water before applying) were mostly phased out in the U.S. in the 1960s and ’70s when wand mascaras arrived on the scene, but Hernandez says they’re worth revisiting because they’re conveniently multipurpose: In addition to playing up lashes, they can be used to fill in eyebrows, rim the eyes as an eyeliner, or even camouflage grays. Parsons, who finds much of her vintage makeup via Ruby Lane, Etsy, 1stdibs, auctions, or antique stores, concedes that “for- mulasaresomuchbetternow.”Butitwasthroughexperimenting with old products that she discovered a vintage formula she’s ea- ger to reinvent. “It’s [Revlon] Bachelor’s Carnation, a red lipstick once worn by Marilyn Monroe,” she says. “Now I just have to find theingredientlistandre-createitmyself.”—MARISA MELTZER FROM TOP: MILEY CYRUS DITCHED HER BILLY RAY CYRUS–INSPIRED MULLET FOR A DEBBIE HARRY DYE JOB; KAIA GERBER WORE COIFFED BIANCA JAGGER– LIKE WAVES INSPIRED BY A 1981 RED-CARPET APPEARANCE; POP STAR DUA LIPA, WHO OPENED THE VERSACE SPRING 2022 SHOW, CHANNELED THE ICONIC BLEACHED-BLONDE DESIGNER AT THE 2022 GRAMMYS.

MS. ROBINSON GOES TO HOLLYWOOD When my book became aTVshow, Ihadto getmyselfcamera-ready. By Phoebe Robinson

Beauty hen Freeform green-lighted my half-hour 15-to16-hour-a-dayschedule.Ijump-startedthisjourneybydo- comedy Everything’s Trash, which is inspired ingtheKromawellnessdetox.BecauseIstrength-train,Ididn’t W by my life as a formerly broke thirtysomething really lose weight, but this detox gave me a taste of my future: I cocoa Khalessi trying to make it in NYC, I was ate lots of porridge and greens and pooped several times a day. overjoyed,floatingeven,likewhenSexandthe Now the passageways are clear and I mostly eat in moderation: City’s Carrie Bradshaw skips while crossing comfort food if I want, but I have to admit that Sweetgreen sal- the street for no reason. Imagining myself on set skip-walking adsareastapleofmydiet.(Fulldisclosure:IthoughtSweetgreen to wardrobe to slap on some nipple covers? Don’t mind if I do. was pronounced Sweetgreens because I’m a Black auntie and Skip-walking to craft services to eat Cheez-Its even though Black aunties just love adding an s to shit.) I’m lactose intolerant? To be expected. Skip-walking to the Now, I can already feel the judgment from some of you about wrap party once shooting is over and dancing and partying my eating a takeout salad e’ery day. In my defense, a homemade with the cast and crew? Duh! Never mind that a bitch (I’m said salad doesn’t hit the same. I need a girl named Kelsie to be slic- bitch) can barely walk after balancing precariously on what ing and dicing them cherry tomatoes, so I can really absorb the essentially amounts to toothpicks for 13 hours a day, five days nutrients. #TheseAreMyReparations. How deep is my love for a week for months? I’m a fool! But I takeout salad, you ask? Sweetgreens also have to admit that my mind was (intentional s) slid into my DMs and full of fantasies about what getting asked to send me a bottle of a soon- myself “Hollywood-ready” as a mere to-be released vinaigrette. Woooooow! “normal” would entail. I’m getting advance salad dressing Before I go on, let me introduce drops before they hit the streets, be- myself. My name is Phoebe Robinson. cause salads are apparently a pillar of I’m from Cleveland, Ohio; am a New my public persona?! I’m Hollywood- York Times best-selling author/co- ready, bitch! median/actress; and avail to be Jason Well, almost. I still had to ad- Momoa’s scrunchie holder/lover… dress my teeth. Y’all, they looked like stay on task, Pheebs. The TV show. Sherwin-Williams’s off-white paint Yes. The TV show. Whenever I men- swatches. I’m talking Gossamer Veil, tion it, folx ask how I got myself Steamed Milk, Roman Column. While camera-ready, because the process I never had bright pearlies like my seems shrouded in mystery. But hon- dad, the fact that Trash was filming in estly, it’s straightforward. Like, have 4K convinced me that I didn’t want you ever woken up at an ungodly hour to look like I grew up in England. So so you could exercise in the hopes of I went to the dentist for the first time your body turning into JLo’s, only since high school. I know! Trifling! for it to resemble that of a contestant But also? My dentist said she liked my on MTV’s Real World/Road Rules “thicc enamel,” so maybe I was doing Challenge who just had two weeks’ ROBINSON ON THE SET OF HER NEW SHOW, something right? (Okay, she definitely notice that they were going to do EVERYTHING’S TRASH. said “thick” not “thicc,” but I will take some rope climbs and barrel rolls? any opportunity to spin a compliment Then you know how to get Hollywood-ready, my friend. so I feel like Megan Thee Stallion.) Anyway, the point is, I had Television, hell, life is image-based. We want to look great a stellar appointment (no cavities!) and went through the two- EXTENDED STAY (20 2 0) BY MEGA N GAB RIEL LE HA RR IS: CO URTE SY OF THE ART IST to secure the job, win the lover, get out of trouble—and because week process of professionally whitening my teeth. Not to the AN D DE BUC K GA LLERY; RO BI NSO N: C OURTE SY OF THE SU BJ ECT. this industry encourages women to transform themselves into point that it looks as though I’m walking around with a mouth alewkdu jour byfasting,overexercising,and gettingplasticsur- fullofChiclets,butbrightenoughthatifafishermanwerelostat gery, the pressure was on. Sorta. Being a type A queen, I strove sea in the dead of night, I could smile and help guide him home. to get Hollywood-ready more on my terms: I had achieved this I know, I’ve written a lot about the physical here, because dream, so I wanted to look like the person who manifested it. that’s what Hollywood places importance on. But during this But that doesn’t mean I wasn’t down for some upgrades. time of preparation, I also discovered the most important thing I Firstup?Exercise.Ihadalreadybegunworkingoutlongbe- hadtodopersonallytogetmyselfHollywood-ready:setbound- fore my TV show was green-lighted, because quarantining in a aries. It sounds strange, but that’s only until you think about it. small apartment was not great for my mental health. I bought Yes, this is a business that’s driven, in part, by doing whatever a Peloton bike to get moving and raise them endorphins. Two- it takes to make your dream come true, but being at this stage plus years later, I’ve got arms and legs by Peloton, and personal- of my life and having experienced my fair share of rejection, itybybeinganAcupsinceIwas13andthinkingthatcharmand I’m appreciative of this opportunity. I want to cherish and sa- wit will bring all the boys to the yard. And I think we all know vor every moment. Everything’s Trash will never come around that since comedy is my career of choice, my yard has mostly again in this specific way with this specific group of writers, been like last call at a bar on a Tuesday night—minimal occu- actors, and collaborators again. That’s what makes it special: its pancy. But after spending all these years honing the funny, the fragility, in that if even one thing is slightly different, the show addition of this new honed body-ody-ody makes me feel pretty wouldn’t work. I want to protect that, and in order to do so, I dang Hollywood-ready. have to have boundaries. I have to protect my peace, my heart, Nextup?Mydiet.Beinginmymidthirties,I’mdependenton mymind,mybody.Thatway,I’mreadyforwhateverHollywood my diet to give me the energy I need to handle my demanding might throw my way. ▪ 61

Living THE BRIDE’S LOOK WAS DESIGNED FOR HER BY CLOSE FRIENDS: A GOWN FASHIONED FROM ANTIQUE LINENS BY ESTEBAN CORTÁZAR, PAIRED WITH CUSTOM AQUAZZURA PLATFORMS (TOP RIGHT) BY EDGARDO OSORIO. BOTTOM RIGHT: THE COUPLE’S RINGS SIT ATOP INVITATIONS BY CRYSTAL OCHOA AND A HEADPIECE BY MAGNETIC MIDNIGHT. Colombian DREAM Fashion consultant MariaClaudia“Cloclo”Echavarría’swedding to Prince Josef-Emanuel of Liechtenstein was a colorful tour through her home country’s traditions.

Cartagena CHIQUI DE ECHAVARRÍA CREATED A TROPICAL PARADISE IN HER HOME’S COURTYARD (LEFT), ADDING A MURAL OF VINES AND FRESH ORCHIDS (COLOMBIA HAS OVER 4,000 SPECIES). IRACA PALM PLACE MATS, NAPKIN RINGS, AND BREAD BASKETS MADE BY LOCAL ARTISANS (BELOW) CAME FROM HER BOUTIQUE, CASA CHIQUI, WHILE THE FAMILY PLATES WERE HAND-PAINTED IN MEDELLÍN. aria Claudia “Cloclo” Echavarría has al- ways known the treasures that her native M Colombia holds. Though she was educated in Switzerland, has lived in London, and now resides in Milan, Cartagena has remained her family’s base. So when the announce- ment of Echavarría’s engagement to Prince Josef-Emanuel of Liechtenstein was made last July, there was little doubt that a very Colombian wedding would be in store. The bride, cofounder of former talent incubator/fashion consultancy Sí Collective, has dedicated herself to raising the profiles of Latin American designers, and her wedding, a week- long, three-destination affair, was no exception. “It was import- ant to me to keep the team as local as possible, and to be able to truly offer our guests a taste of the best of Colombia,” Echavarría says. “Colombians are so proud of our country, and we want peo- ple to see and experience everything it has to offer.” Among the first to receive a call: childhood friends and designers Esteban Cortázar and Edgardo Osorio. Cortázar, despite having created many a wedding dress, had never designed one for a wedding in Cartagena. “It’s one of the most romantic cities, and it has al- ways inspired me. You’re walking down the street and it’s like you’re in a Gabriel García Márquez novel,” says Cortázar, who had the idea of fashioning the dress from antique linens in order to stand up to the Caribbean heat, appeal to the bride’s passion Photographed by Maureen M. Evans

Living D E S T I N A T I O N S for sustainability, and feel sufficiently grand for a royal wedding. Barú “Cloclo has impeccable taste, but she’s also a down-to-earth girl, so I wanted to create something that would command atten- THE DAY AFTER THE CEREMONY, GUESTS DECAMPED TO THE tion,” he says. “I envisioned her as the Princess of Cartagena, a ECHAVARRÍAS’ BARÚ HOUSE FOR A BOUNTY OF COLOMBIAN FRUITS mix of both worlds, because she’s lived all over the world but AND JUICES (ABOVE) AND LIVE MUSIC ON THE BEACH (BELOW she’s always been in touch with her roots.” The grandeur of the LEFT). CLOCLO, BELOW WITH JOSEF-EMANUEL, COLLABORATED church, the 16th-century Iglesia de San Pedro Claver, called for ON A MINIDRESS WITH DESIGNER DIEGO GUARNIZO, CROCHETED a long train, which was created in part by joining four enor- BY COLOMBIAN ARTISANS WITH SHELL EMBELLISHMENTS. mous, early-1900s curtain panels found in Paris—pushing the bride out of her usual flats and into skyscraping platforms by Osorio, founder of shoe brand Aquazzura. Osorio embellished the pumps with remnants from the dress fabric. After the ceremony, guests rode chivas (distinctly Colombian open-air buses) through dense crowds hoping to catch a glimpse of the newlyweds as they emerged to the sounds of traditional drummers and dancers, whose white cotton dresses echoed the bride’s. The dancers were “totally a surprise to Josef, which shows on his face in many of the photos!” Echavarría says. “Cloclo was absolutely sure she wanted to have the reception at home,” says her mother, legendary hostess Evelia “Chiqui” de Echavarría, who started planning last summer. “I said, ‘Oh my God, I have to get all the orchids now, so that they’ll flow- er in March.’” Flower they did, complementing the lush gar- den Chiqui has been cultivating for decades. And when she decided that the space still wasn’t quite green enough for her liking? She hired an artist to paint vines on the white walls and ceiling. After the dinner, catered by Juan Felipe Camacho of restaurant Don Juan, and the cake, a coconut and mamey pie by Cartagena’s Pastelería Mila, musicians playing vallenato got the party started, followed by a salsa band and DJ Carlos Mejia.

The Echavarrías’ parties are legendary, but knowing a full day at Bogotá the beach awaited them, most of the guests retired before dawn. A FAMILY HOUSE IN THE HILLS WAS THE SETTING FOR AN ALPINE- Barú, a small island where the Echavarría family has a INSPIRED POST-WEDDING SEND-OFF (ABOVE RIGHT AND BELOW). thatched-roof beach house, feels a world away, making it the THE BRIDE (ABOVE LEFT) WORE AN EMBROIDERED IVORY SILK DIRNDL ideal spot for guests—including the Grand Duke of Luxembourg WITH A PALE PINK SILK BROCADE APRON BY FRIEND ANNINA PFUEL’S and family, handbag designer Carolina Santo Domingo, and BRAND ANNINA DIRNDL, AS WELL AS AQUAZZURA ESPADRILLES. Princesses Maria Laura and Luisa of Belgium—to unwind after the previous day’s festivities. Echavarría arrived in a hand-cro- cheted minidress created with costume and set designer Diego Guarnizo (it was decorated with shells at her mother’s boutique, Casa Chiqui) and a bikini designed with Cali-based Juan De Dios. “I wanted to highlight artisans and smaller brands that might not be as internationally recognized,” Echavarría says. “This has always been central to my work and something I believe in strongly, beyond it being a professional endeavor.” Later, she changed into a Gabriela Hearst dress, with Casa Chiqui earrings and a headpiece by her cousin Lucia’s brand, Magnetic Midnight. A few days’ break before the celebration’s wrap-up in Bogotá gave guests ample time to explore Colombia. A country house owned by Echavarría’s aunts stood in for an Alpine setting as guests donned tracht (traditional garments of German-speaking countries) and explored a fruit and flower market created by Guarnizo. The Alpine-style table linens—created in collaboration with illustrator Crystal Ochoa, a former Sí Collective director— featured yellow embroidered butterflies, reminiscent of Gabriel García Márquez’s symbol of love, hope, and peace. The motif recurred throughout the week, in the invitations and even flut- tering around events. “The whole process felt like working with friends,” Echavarría says. “From putting together my looks, to de- veloping the graphics and choosing the vendors, it felt like I was tapping into my network of loved ones.”—NAOMI ROUGEAU 65

C U LT U R E MIKAELA SHIFFRIN IS STILL THE BEST SKIER IN THE WORLD After crashing epically on the world’s biggest stage, Mikaela Shiffrin is using her experience to remind us that noone—not even an Olympian—isimmune to mental health issues. BY ROSE MINUTAGLIO PHOTOGRAPHED BY CALEB SANTIAGO ALVARADO M ikaela Shiffrin is used to steering through twists and turns. But nothing could have prepared the champion Alpine skier for the last two years: the sudden death of her father, a debilitat- ing back injury, and a positive COVID-19 test that forced her to miss some World Cup races. Then, in one of the most shocking sequences in the sport’s history, Shiffrin was disqualified from not one, not two, but three races at the 2022 Winter Olympic Games. After stumbling through the slalom, her signature event, she veered off to the side of the course, took her skis off, and bowed her head as cameras zoomed in. “Everybody experiences the hard days when it’s difficult to keep a positive attitude, andyoujustkindof needtositdownandcry,” Shiffrin says. “Except, for me, it all became a very public thing.” At that moment, on top of a mountain, Shiffrin bottomed out. In the past, she might have concealed her burnout with plati- tudes about being mentally tough or pushing through the pain. This time, she knew that in order to move forward, she needed 66

DRESS, MARNI, $1,290. HER OWN RING. STYLED BY SARAH ZENDEJAS.

C U L T U R E | Mikaela Shiffrin to look back. “I’m a different person than I was,” she says, “and Illustrated cover, a collaboration with Barilla on a cookbook ti- I didn’t want to hide what I’m feeling anymore.” tled Winning Recipes, and an Adidas sponsorship. As Shiffrin’s By sharing honestly, Shiffrin joins the ranks of major female celebrity soared, so, too, did the expectation to keep winning. athletes in recent history who’ve shined a light on once-taboo Around 2016, she felt the first hints of what would become an subjects like mental health, trauma, and performance pressure. avalanche of performance anxiety. Not that it showed. “No mat- “It’s scary,” she says, “because it shows vulnerability. But there’s ter how much success I’ve had in my career, it was like a con- no reason to feel shame anymore.” stant battle of trying to prove my worth,” she says. With each passing season, the pressure piled on, until eventually it started wo months after the Games, Shiffrin invit- flooding out before races. “I would be nervous, and then I’d get ed me to her mountain chalet in Edwards, more and more and more nervous until I had to puke,” she says. T Colorado,aburgeoningskitown14mileswest “I was essentially having panic attacks.” Confiding in a sports of Vail. Her home is a palace fit for a snow mo- psychologist helped, but “on the days when I feel like I’m not… gul, with 100-year-old wooden ceiling beams living up to expectations, whether it’s outside expectations or imported from Austria (site of her first World my own…it’s kind of like, Why am I doing this?” Shiffrin says. Cup podium, nearly 10 years ago), an Elsa-worthy crystal icicle “Because even though I’m obviously good, I didn’t feel like I was chandelier, and a quartzite kitchen island that glistens like a very good, and that really twists and messes with your mind.” glacier in the sunlight. “Pretty cool, huh?” she says with a grin. After picking up her second and third Olympic medals at the Shiffrin is still surprised by her success. You can see it in 2018 PyeongChang Games, she felt “a wave of exhaustion” and the look of shock on her face every time she zips across the “just kind of depleted.” Like she was “going through a really bad finish line seconds (light- breakup,” Shiffrin distract- years, in the world of ski ed herself from increas- racing) ahead of everyone “NO MATTER HOW MUCH ing self-doubt with plans else. But this house is not for the house in Edwards, afraid to brag. On a tour, I SUCCESS I’VE HAD IN MY which would double as the count five jam-packed tro- CAREER, IT WAS LIKE A family home. phy cases. “It’s obviously Eight months after she a lot,” Shiffrin says sheep- CONSTANT BATTLE TRYING and her parents moved in, ishly. It’s more than a lot: At TO PROVE MY WORTH.” Shiffrin got a frantic call 27, Shiffrin is already one of from her brother while she the most decorated skiers —Mikaela Shiffrin was away training in Italy. of all time. Her father had fallen while Her chairlift to the top doing household chores started 25 years ago when alone at the house and had her parents put her on plastic skis from Safeway in the drive- sustained a severe head injury. She made it back from Italy in way as a toddler. Her father, Jeff, skied at Dartmouth, and her time to say goodbye, before Jeff died at age 65 on February 2, mother, Eileen, is a former high school racer. Skiing was more 2020. “The fact that he had an accident, the fact that nobody than a hobby; it was a part of their love story. One of their first was home to find and then help him, and get him the care he dates was at Killington Mountain in Vermont, and they moved needed, sooner so that he would actually have a chance of stay- to Vail, a winter haven with world-class ski instructors, to raise ing alive.…” Shiffrin takes a deep breath to steady her shaking Shiffrin and her older brother, Taylor. Shiffrin quickly advanced voice before continuing. “There’s a bunch of things I’m still from blacktop to black diamonds—where, before long, she was angry about.” She couldn’t sleep. She couldn’t eat. Most days, whizzing past her parents. At 13, she enrolled at legendary she didn’t even want to ski. “When your priorities get set so Vermont-based ski-racing boarding school Burke Mountain much straighter from an accident or a tragedy like that, you Academy, which has produced 36 Olympians. Even among start to wonder, Why was racing ever important to me to begin the nation’s best future ski talent, Eileen says her daughter was with?” she says. “way ahead of the curve,” running drills while her classmates Six weeks after her dad died, the world shut down due to skied for fun. “She wasn’t one of those athletes who needed to COVID, and Shiffrin found herself sequestered on flat ground. be pushed; she just ran with it,” Eileen says, “and people just “Like, how am I supposed to actually focus on ski racing when couldn’t catch up with her.” all this is going on?” she says. The rest of the World Cup tour was Before Shiffrin was old enough to get a driver’s license, she canceled, and she stayed off the slopes for three months—train- had debuted on the World Cup circuit, reaching her first podi- ing almost exclusively in her home gym. “That brought its own um eight races later. Her junior and senior years of high school wave of sadness and a hopeless feeling,” she says. It wasn’t just were spent competing overseas. Eileen left a career in nursing to loss or lockdown; the time off led Shiffrin to realize how much travel with her daughter nine months out of the year, while Jeff she had allowed herself to be defined by her sport. “It became helmed the business side of “Team Shiffrin” from Vail, where hard for me to separate who I am as a person, or even my self- he worked as an anesthesiologist. “Some things can’t be fixed worth, from my races and my performances,” she says. Shiffrin from afar, yet somehow he managed to anyway,” Shiffrin says, began investing in her life off the slopes, dating a shaggy-haired recalling how he would answer her calls at any hour to give ad- Norwegian Alpine skier named Aleksander Aamodt Kilde. vice. “He was our rock, our safety net.” When her dad did come When we meet in person at Shiffrin’s house, he tells me that he to races, he joined his wife at the finish line, camera in hand. has known Shiffrin for eight years, but they only started dating After qualifying for the 2014 Sochi Olympic Games just shy after Jeff died. Kilde, whose mom survived a three-year battle of her 19th birthday, she became the youngest women’s sla- with breast cancer, strikes me as totally devoted to Shiffrin and lom champion in Olympic history, snowballing into a Sports often shares encouraging words like “Just keep on fighting” on

LEFT: ONE OF SHIFFRIN’S TROPHY CASES. AT 27, SHE IS ALREADY ONE OF THE MOST DECORATED SKIERS OF ALL TIME. BELOW: SHIFFRIN WEARS HER FATHER’S RING. TANK, JONATHAN SIMKHAI, $195. FaceTime when she feels down. “I will never controversial coverage of Shiffrin was later defended by NBC 100 percent understand what Mikaela is go- ing through, but I can at least know 100 per- Olympics executive producer Molly Solomon, who said, “We’re cent what I can do for her,” he says. “I can be there as a boyfriend and a man in her life that watching real people with real emotions in real time, and we did she can trust.” everything we were supposed to do.”) Shiffrin then crashed for In the lead-up to the Games, Shiffrin suf- HAI R A ND MA KE UP BY JESSICA SHI NYEDA; FO R DETA ILS, S EE SHOP P I NG GUID E. fered a severe back strain that “got to the lev- a third time during the women’s alpine combined, and placed el where I just couldn’t move, because it hurt that bad,” she says. Then she tested positive for ninth in the women’s super-G and 18th in the downhill. “There’s COVID-19, and trained alone for 10 days in a hotel room, doing pull-ups on her bed frame a lot of talk about the pressures athletes feel before a competi- while coughing and fighting a sore throat. “I was hoping that maybe I could just come back and it’d be fine,” she says. “But tion, and that ends up being why it doesn’t go well,” Shiffrin says. at that point, I was really low.” Even picking up a record 47th World Cup slalom victory less than a month before the Games “For me, it didn’t go well first, and then I felt the pressure, disap- left her feeling “more defeated than triumphant,” she says. “The most stressful and tiring part of the season was still to come, pointment, shame, and embarrassment of knowing I couldn’t and I didn’t have any energy left to give.” That didn’t mean she wouldn’t give it her all: Shiffrin entered five individual ski dis- go back and change it.” ciplines, including two speed events. If she had medaled in just two of the five events, it would have made her the most deco- After years of repressing those feelings, Shiffrin decided rated American female alpinist in Olympic history. “We didn’t predict that she wasn’t in the right emotional space,” her mom to open up. “You want to run away and you want to hide from says. “She didn’t talk about it, which is kind of typical of Mikaela. She sort of keeps things inside.… I think, for her, it shows a sign those difficult moments, but they’re there no matter what,” she of weakness that she doesn’t like to show.” says. “I knew I needed to face this, and I could either choose to Basketball players can brick the odd foul shot; golfers can miss a swing here or there. In ski racing, where margins of vic- do it in shame or I could choose to stand up straight and, I don’t tory are measured in hundredths of a second, there is no room for error. At the Olympics, Shiffrin made several. During the know, bare my soul.” She apologized to fans for her performance women’s giant slalom, she slipped and didn’t finish. In the sla- lom, her signature event, she skied out and went to the side of in the giant slalom, clapped back at online trolls accusing her of the course, where, for more than 20 minutes, the cameras fo- cused on her as the competition whizzed by—vying for a spot choking, and later penned an essay about the deep sea of grief on the podium in the race many had expected her to win—and announcers deemed her elimination a “disappointment.” (The she’d been drowning in since losing her dad. “My best moment at the Olympics ended up being me just trying to communi- cate what was actually going through my head and hoping that somebody out there might be reading it and thinking, ‘That’s how I feel today,’” she says. “Like, I felt completely hopeless and that’s something that a lot of people CONTINUED ON PAGE 116 69

PERSPECTIVES WHEN her to take her mask off. “He told me I look better without a THE mask,” she says. At one point, Wortman’s wife and employee, DOCTOR Rebecca, stepped into the room, and Hellquist felt like she was IS IN examining her face, as if searching for a resemblance. Wortman YOUR DNA started asking Hellquist a barrage of personal questions: What does her husband do? What was his name again? What about en years ago, when Morgan Hellquist, a mar- her children’s names? He mentioned a relative of Hellquist’s ried art teacher with two kids, was having who worked for an auction house, and then got up to rummage through a pile of things, returning with a vintage “massage” gun. T some issues with her period and needed a He asked her if she could guess what he thought women used new gynecologist, Morris Wortman, MD, it for, according to court filings. seemed like the obvious choice. Wortman ran a Rochester, New York, clinic treating men- It was bizarre and awkward. In his office following the exam, strual disorders, and posted YouTube videos in which he would Wortman again made things personal, telling her his parents opine on treating endometrial ablation failures while dressed in were Holocaust survivors and about his medical training. “I royal-blue scrubs, his bald head reflecting the overhead lighting. was like, this is so much information,” Hellquist says. Then As now outlined in a civil lawsuit, Wortman wasn’t just he started chuckling to himself, calling her “such a good kid.” admired in the broader community; he was also worshiped in Suddenly, Hellquist was struck by the resemblance—Wortman Hellquist’s home. Since she was eight years old, Hellquist’s par- looked exactly like one of the half brothers she had connected ents had told her about the “miracle worker” doctor who helped with online. “My throat dropped into my stomach,” she says. them overcome her father’s paralysis so they could have a baby “Something in my head said, ‘This is bad. You’ve got to go.’” In using anonymous donor sperm. “He was very much part of our May 2021, according to the complaint, Hellquist and one of her story,” says Hellquist, 36. The first time Hellquist met Wortman half brothers contacted Wortman’s daughter from a previous in his office, she says she was “a little fangirl-y.” She reminded marriage, who agreed to submit to a genetic test. The test re- him that her mother had been his patient, that he was respon- vealed that Hellquist, her half brother, and the doctor’s daugh- sible for her conception. While she was initially impressed ter were all siblings. Wortman was Hellquist’s biological father. by Wortman’s intelligence and diligence, over her nine years as his patient, Hellquist became increasingly uncomfortable. Over the next month, Hellquist says she lost 10 pounds. “I “Sometimes, he would be very professional and empathetic,” could hardly keep food down,” she says. “I was physically sick she says. “And sometimes, he was super inappropriate.” every single day.” She struggled to make sense of what had trans- Curious about her biological origins, Hellquist connected pired. “I can’t imagine what was going through his head when with some half siblings online, who she presumed were fathered he was treating me,” she says. “In what world do you look your by the same donor. And, to her surprise, a genetic test indicated daughter in the face and then give her a breast exam?” When she was 50 percent Ashkenazi Jewish, even though her parents her mother found out, she told Hellquist that she felt like she had requested that the donor not be from any one specific eth- had been violated. (Hellquist’s dad passed away in 2015.) Unsure nic heritage so the child could match their own mixed back- what to do but determined to force accountability, Hellquist grounds. As these new discoveries emerged, she shared them called a lawyer friend, who gave her some shocking news: There with Wortman. According to the complaint, Wortman, himself are no fertility fraud laws in New York State. What Wortman Jewish, told her that her challenging PMS was all in her head, the result of being a “Jewish American Princess.” Fertility specialists When Hellquist tried to schedule an appointment with an- across the country other practitioner at Wortman’s clinic, Wortman changed her have been accused appointment to be with him and asked that she book with him moving forward. The whole thing struck Hellquist as “skeevy,” of fraudulently but she convinced herself she was overreacting. “I was like, ‘He using their own sees a thousand women’s vaginas a day. This has nothing to do with you.’” Still, she describes the odd sensation of watching sperm. Their someone revered slip off a pedestal. “Until, all of a sudden, it was biological daughters like a tsunami took out the pedestal in one swipe.” On April 12, 2021, Hellquist had an appointment with are all grown up Wortman. In his office, at the height of COVID-19, he asked and fightingback. BY SARAH TRELEAVEN PHOTOGRAPHED BY STEPHANIE MEI-LING 70

MORGAN HELLQUIST AND HER MOTHER, JO ANN LEVEY. “THE FACT THAT IT’S NOT ALREADY SPECIFIC GROUNDS FOR LOSING YOUR [MEDICAL] LICENSE IS BONKERS.”

P E R S P E C T I V E S | Fertility Fraud allegedly did—swapping in his sperm instead of using the prom- nine have been enacted so far—in Arizona, Arkansas, California, ised anonymous donor—wasn’t a crime. Colorado, Florida, Indiana, Kentucky, Texas, and Utah. At press time, Iowa’s legislature had passed a bill that was awaiting These allegations now form the basis of the civil suit filed Governor Kim Reynolds’s signature. And in New York, Hellquist by Hellquist. In an amended complaint filed in February has joined nine lawmakers to lobby for fertility fraud bills that 2022, Hellquist and her legal team outline an alleged timeline: will clear the way for civil suits; classify the practice of using Between 1983 and 1985, while Hellquist’s mother was undergo- human reproductive material without explicit consent as aggra- ing fertility treatments, Wortman told Hellquist’s parents that vated sexual abuse; and include fertility fraud in the definition he had the perfect donor—a medical student who checked all of misconduct for physicians, thus making it illegal for a doctor their boxes, including screening for genetic issues. They agreed to use his own sperm. She’s hoping it will pass by summer 2022. to pay the donor $50 for each live donation. “The fact that it’s not already specific grounds for losing your [medical] license is bonkers,” Hellquist says. According to her complaint, Hellquist now believes that not only was the donor not real, but Wortman pocketed the $50 “OUR MOMS LOVE US. THEY WOULD NOT CHANGE US FOR ANYTHING. AND IT’S REALLY HARD FOR THEM TO TEASE APART THOSE TWO THINGS.” and, Hellquist alleges, used his own semen sample to insemi- Much of the new legislation creates a pathway to criminal nate Hellquist’s mother, who became pregnant and gave birth charges, likening fertility fraud to sexual abuse. New York state to Hellquist. She also alleges that her mother never consented senator Samra Brouk, one of the cosponsors of the state’s pro- to Wortman using his own sperm. Wortman did not reply to a posed senate fertility fraud bill, wants to see such acts classified request for comment for this article, and as of May 2022, had not as aggravated sexual abuse. “It is shameful to prey on those yet responded to the amended complaint that alleges medical struggling with their fertility, and the insertion of reproduc- malpractice, fraud, and battery. In his response to the original tive material without consent of the receiving party must be complaint, he acknowledged that he treated Hellquist on a “very penalized,” Brouk says. Shifting ideas about consent underpin limited and infrequent basis,” but denied her allegations that he this movement. Hellquist and other advocates note that the had engaged in any wrongdoing. reaction of many of their mothers—some of whom may have faced considerable stigma when accessing this care decades ellquist is one of several women fighting a ago—tends to be some combination of shame and the desire to sweep things under the rug. But their daughters want to draw similar legal battle across the country, which a hard line in the sand. “There are a ton of women now saying, ‘Actually, Mom, this is a problem,’” Hellquist says. H is overwhelmingly being led not by the moth- ers who were betrayed by their doctors, but There is a generational divide surrounding advocacy, says Jody Madeira, PhD, codirector of the Center for Law, Society by their adult daughters. Over the last decade, & Culture at Indiana University Bloomington. For older wom- en, who underwent fertility treatments when the science was dozens of people have alleged a very particular much newer, every birth truly seemed like a miracle—even if it was best not to talk about the details. Their daughters, who are form of medical malpractice and personal betrayal: a fertility now accustomed to these medical interventions as relatively common, and who were reared during increasingly open con- doctor who used his own sperm to impregnate a patient with- versations about consent and bodily autonomy, are inclined to see sperm-swapping by doctors for the violation it is. out her permission and is, in fact, her child’s biological father. Eve Wiley, whose biological father is her mother’s former Some of these doctors are alleged to have taken advantage fertility doctor, found out that she was donor-conceived at 16, according to both live and written testimony she’s given in of the new technologies and lax restrictions of the 1970s and support of fertility fraud legislation in several states. Living in small-town Texas, her mother had selected a donor in California ’80s, and are believed to have deceptively fathered dozens of because “she didn’t want to be in the grocery store, wondering if someone was her child’s biological father.” But after the prema- children. Among the accused is Las Vegas obstetrician Quincy ture death of Wiley’s father from a heart condition, her moth- er became concerned about the medical history of her donor. Fortier, MD, who is believed to have used his sperm to father WhenWileyturned18, she petitionedforinformation, and at least 26 children. And Donald Cline, MD, a fertility doctor in a California sperm bank connected her with a man named Steve, according to her testimony. Their records indicated he Indianapolis, who allegedly told at least 50 patients that he was had supplied the donation purchased by the fertility clinic of Kim McMorries,MD,in Nacogdoches, Texas. “Westartedthis using fresh sperm from a medical student before using his own beautiful father-daughter relationship,” says Wiley, 35. “He’s sample instead. Fortier, who died in 2006, never lost his license, nor was he charged with any crime. Cline eventually surren- dered his medical license and pleaded guilty to two counts of obstruction of justice for lying to Indiana investigators; to date, he has never been criminally charged or found liable in any court for allegedly using his own sperm to inseminate women without their consent. In the absence of criminal recourse—and with many of these physicians continuing to practice medicine—civil suits like Hellquist’s are sometimes the only option. But flabbergast- ed women are also now pushing for legislative change. Across the country, state fertility fraud bills are being introduced, and

would have to tell Steve, the man who had come into her life and wrapped her in a warm duvet of paternal love, that he wasn’t her father. Even worse, she would have to tell her mother. It was tempting to just pretend all of it had never hap- pened. At first, Wiley stalled on telling Steve, but when she did call to break the news, he started sobbing. “I started crying and kept saying, ‘I’m still here,’” Wiley says. At the end of the conver- sation, Steve told her that she was still his daughter. “I was devastated to have to be the one to deliver that news and was worried about how it would affect our relationship, but we banded togeth- er over the injustice of it all,” she says. When Wiley worked up the courage to tell her mother, her mother went into shock. “She was shaking to the point where my husband thought we needed to call an ambulance. For her and a lot of our moms, it’s really hard to process the trauma of it,” Wiley says. “But also, they love us. They would not change us for anything. And it’s really hard for them to tease apart those two things.” Many cases of doctor-father decep- tion have been uncovered through the popularity of take-home genetic test- ing kits. “There’s a culture of genetic testing in the U.S. that’s quite different from that of other countries,” Madeira says. “We treat it like a party game.” But that game can have very unexpected results. Kara Rubinstein Deyerin, co- founder and CEO of Right to Know, an advocacy, mental health support, and EVE WILEY AND HER MOTHER, MARGO WILLIAMS. education organization in Maple Valley, the most gentle, amazingly kind person in the world.” Soon Washington, that promotes transparen- Steve was joining her family for holidays; she began calling him “Dad,” and he officiated at her wedding in 2013. cy regarding genetic information, says that two common forms Several years ago, Wiley’s young son started to develop trou- of deception involve donors providing untruthful information bling health problems; he struggled to keep food down and had repeated severe allergic reactions. He had 12 surgeries before and clinics mishandling genetic material. “A heterosexual cou- his fourth birthday. In the face of a medical mystery, doctors suggested that Wiley, her husband, and son try DNA testing ple goes in because they’re having fertility issues, and they take kits. The results indicated that Wiley’s son had celiac disease, a hereditary autoimmune condition. But neither Wiley, her hus- the husband’s sample and the wife gets pregnant,” she says. band, or Steve had celiac in their families. Wiley also kept getting alerts about potential first cousins, and she decided to reach out Years later, someone gives them a DNA kit for Christmas, and to one. He told her that McMorries was their biological father. “I was like, ‘No, you’re confused,’ ” she says. “ ‘He’s our moms’ doc- the results show that the father has other children out there. tor. You see that difference?’ And I was explaining to him about the sperm donor like he didn’t understand.” She reached out to “They find out that the clinic used the husband’s [leftover] another DNA match, who she thought might be a half brother, but the genetic connection was unclear. They got talking, and sperm as an anonymous donor without his permission.” he mentioned that he had an uncle who lived near Wiley. His name was Kim McMorries. “My world just stopped,” Wiley says. In addition to the sudden challenges to identity that arise, “It was like I finally swapped in the correct lens and the picture became clear. Something was really wrong here.” surprise home DNA test results can turn the notion of violation Wiley’s discovery threatened to upend her entire life. She on its head. “Normally, if you’re wronged—if you’re in a car ac- cident or robbed or raped—you feel it directly,” Madeira says. But in cases of fertility fraud, there’s often no awareness of a violation until a test comes back. And in these cases, the person who underwent the fraudulent insemination—the mother who was lied to—is typically not the person who discovers it. Madeira says the closest analogy is when someone is raped while uncon- scious, and then told about it later. Wiley reached out to McMorries for an explanation, and the two exchanged multiple letters and emails before the doctor confirmed that he was, in fact, her biological father. He said he told Wiley’s parents that since the CONTINUED ON PAGE 117 73

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Getaway ANA DE ARMAS, THE RADIANT CUBAN-BORN STAR OF THIS SUMMER’S BLOCKBUSTER THE GRAY MAN, IS COMPLEX, CONTEMPLATIVE. . . AND EXTREMELY GRATEFUL TO HAVE ESCAPED L.A. BY MARISA MELTZER. PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHRISTIAN MACDONALD. STYLED BY ALEX WHITE.

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na de Armas is relieved the past couple of years are behind her. Her character, Dani Miranda, is a CIA agent. “At the begin- “It was weird,” she says. Her father was sick with a non-COVID ning, she’s very by-the-book, and that’s the mission, and it’s a illness and she wanted to go back to Cuba, where she’s from, big deal for her and her career and her reputation,” de Armas but the island was closed for travel during the pandemic. “And says. For research, she grilled a CIA agent on the phone about then at the same time, I was working a lot, and I felt very lucky.” chain of command and trust. She shot The Gray Man, the summer action movie directed by Anthony and Joe Russo and costarring Ryan Gosling and Chris What is really interestingabout Daniis thatinanother mov- Evans, reportedly the biggest-budget film Netflix has ever made. ie, she’d be the token woman one of the leads would fall for (and to be fair, in a movie featuring Gosling, Evans, and Regé-Jean Well, and there was a lot of attention focused on her for a Page, aka three of the most handsome men in the world, the widely photographed and gossiped-about relationship with job wouldn’t be all that taxing). Instead, the dynamic between Ben Affleck. How was that, I had to ask. “Horrible,” she says, her character and Gosling’s is friendly and respectful. Which nodding and opening her big, round hazel eyes for emphasis. feels like a tiny win for women. “I was very happy to see that Really? “Yeah, which is good,” she says. “That’s one of the rea- they didn’t rush this relationship. Whatever’s going to happen sons why I left L.A.” in the future, I don’t know”—the film begs for a franchise—“but I was happy that the focus was on the mission.” She had spent seven years in Los Angeles, seeing other performers’ lives become a fishbowl complete with paparazzi Chris Evans, her friend and three-time costar (in The Gray tracking your every move. “Going through it [myself ] confirmed Man, her breakthrough role in Knives Out, and the upcoming my thoughts about, ‘This is not the place for me to be,’ ” she says. Ghosted, an action-adventure movie she just finished filming “It became a little bit too much. There’s no escape. There’s no in Atlanta), says, “I’m a fan first. There are certain people on way out.” In Los Angeles, she adds, “it’s always the feeling of camera you can’t stop watching, and her range, from power to something that you don’t have, something missing. It’s a city vulnerability, is incredibly wide. Every actor has strong suits, that keeps you anxious.” but she can go from almost dangerous to exposed and gentle and soft in one scene.” She lives in New York now, in an apartment with her boy- friend, Tinder exec Paul Boukadakis, and has met me at the De Armas grew up in Cuba, in a beach town where her fami- Ladurée garden in SoHo, where she’s drinking jasmine tea ly had neither a computer nor internet service, or even a cell and sitting with her back to the crowds. The two met during phone. When she was nine, her grandmother died, and her the pandemic through a mutual friend and, with a lot of places family moved to Havana to be with her grandfather. closed, spent their first dates at each other’s homes, drinking wine and talking. It was a new world for her, and she felt a little like an out- sider in the big city. But it was also what would put her on her Not that she’s spent much time in her new city. She filmed career path. De Armas enrolled in a Havana drama school at age The Gray Man in France and Prague and at sound stages in Long 14, surrounded by students of music, circus, and art. She would Beach, California. It’s her second big action movie after her brief meet up with friends at the Malecón, Havana’s famed seaside but splashy turn in the James Bond film No Time to Die. “The promenade and gathering spot, “playing guitar and drinking truth is, I never thought I was going to be an action actor. It rumuntilthenextmorning.It waslikeabig,funtheaterfestival wasn’t my thing,” she says. Yet the offers started coming in. “You and film festival, and it was incredible,” she says. She did three have to be careful, because it’s not what I want to put the focus Cuban films. And then, at 18, she left for Spain. on. This is not where I’m the most comfortable, to be honest, because I feel ridiculous. And it takes a lot of work.” She settled in Madrid, mostly taking on TV roles. She made a life for herself and found a group of friends, but after eight years, Her big, much-anticipated films—the Bond movie and this at 26, she decided to take a chance on L.A. There, she found that fall’s Blonde, in which she plays Marilyn Monroe—were much none of the previous work she had done in Cuba and Spain really delayed. She read the script for The Gray Man and was intrigued mattered to casting directors. And then there was her English, and ready to work, but “the script still needed work. My charac- which wasn’t nearly as fluent as it is now. She attended English ter needed work. But the meeting went so well. Those two are classes from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. for three months to get up to speed. so much fun,” she says of the Russo brothers. 83



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(Chatting in person, she speaks with a somewhat stronger ac- She chooses projects based partly on directors she wants to centthanshedoesspeakingdialogueinfilms.)Thewholething work with. “And then, of course, what’s in there for me,” she was a humbling experience. says with a sly smile. Blonde is based on the Joyce Carol Oates She loves that living in New York, she’s only about a three- historical novel about Marilyn Monroe. De Armas went to L.A. hourdirectflightawayfromHavanaandismuchclosertoSpain to screen-test for the role of Marilyn while filming Knives Out. than she was in L.A. Do you like living in America, I ask? “I do,” “She showed me a picture of her as Marilyn,” Curtis remem- she says. “Sometimes.” I point out that she paused before an- bers. “My father was in Some Like It Hot, and I have a lot of swering. “Sometimes I do; sometimes I miss Europe.” There’s photosofmyfatherandMarilyn.Itwasacoupleofstillpictures not a sadness exactly, but a wistfulness to her. and one video of her moving through space with no audio. But She’s balancing an intense drive to make it, to be a huge it was so shocking because she was Marilyn.” household name, with a feeling of being displaced. “I feel some- The fact that a Latina actor with a Cuban accent was cast timesthatI’mnotpartoftheCubanartistcommunity,andthen in Blonde is not just a sign of her talent but that Hollywood I was in Spain and I feel like I’m might be becoming slightly more not part of the community there— open-minded about its casting especially because in Spain, I did practices, and moving—slowly— more TV than movies,” she says. “I DO WANT TO toward inclusivity. “It’s definitely “And then I’m here, and I feel like PLAY LATINA. BUT changing; it’s getting better. But I’m not there yet either. You know? I DON’T WANT it’s hard to know now, being in my TO PUT A BASKET Am I part of the community? I OF FRUIT ON position, because I know it’s not barely know anybody.” MY HEAD EVERY the same for everybody,” de Armas SINGLE TIME. SO says. “And I feel like it’s coming She may be exaggerating her from filmmakers, that diversity outsider status a little bit. When hasbecomeamust.Youhave todo her Knives Out costar Jamie Lee the right thing. Thank God.” Curtis met her on their first day, Curtis says, “I assumed—and I say She hopes that she’s paving this with real embarrassment—be- THAT’S MY HOPE, the way for other actors, but at the cause she had come from Cuba, THAT I CAN SHOW same time, she doesn’t only want that she had just arrived. I made to play women whose defining an assumption that she was an THAT WE CAN characteristic is their ethnicity. inexperienced, unsophisticated DO ANYTHING IF She wants to find a balance. “I do young woman. That first day,I was want to play Latina. But I don’t like, ‘Oh, what are your dreams?’” WE’RE GIVEN JUST want to put a basket of fruit on my She asked because she was so im- THE CHANCE.” head every single time,” she says. pressed with de Armas that she “So that’s my hope, that I can show wanted to introduce her to Steven that we can do anything if we’re Spielberg to play Maria in West given the time to prepare, and if HA IR BY ORL AN DO P ITA FOR ORL A ND O PITA P L AY; MA KEUP BY MÉL A NIE INGLES SI S AT FORWA RD ARTISTS; SET DESIGN BY TODD WIGGINS AT MHS ARTISTS; PRODUCED BY 1972 AGENCY AND CALLIE HOUSEHOLDER PRODUCTIONS. Side Story, or to Curtis’s godchil- we’re given just the chance, just drenMaggieandJakeGyllenhaal.Shewassurprisedshealready the chance. You can do any film—Blonde—you can do anything. knew Jake. De Armas is also close with Keanu Reeves, her co- The problem is that sometimes you don’t even get to the room star in her first English-language film, Eli Roth’s Knock Knock. with the director to sit down and prove yourself.” It is both ex- Curtis says that her friend is neither the complete outsider hausting and frustrating, she says. nor the glamorous woman on the red carpet or in Estée Lauder To deal with the intense scrutiny thrust upon her, she doesn’t campaigns. “She is not as fancy as maybe the advertisements Google herself. “I deleted Twitter years ago,” she says. “I have would have you believe. She leans in, interested; talking to her barely been on Instagram for almost a year.” And no secret is kind of give-and-take. She’s curious and asks a lot of ques- Instagram accounts–no secret anything. tions,” Curtis says. She doesn’t have a lot of time. She travels—she’s about to leave for San Diego for a Louis Vuitton show, the same brand De Armas has a naked ambition whose western-style blazer she’s wearing—and prepares for thatradiatesoffofher.Shewants roles, which, for action films like The Gray Man, involves todomoreproducing.Shewasan training six days a week. She’s going on vacation in Italy this D executive producer on Ghosted; summer and “all the limoncellos and tiramisus I can get, I’m for her future project Ballerina, going to get them.” She’s also been shopping online for bikinis which is part of the John Wick and sundresses for the trip. With what free time she has, she universe and reunites her with FaceTimes friends and hangs out with her dogs, Elvis and Salsa. Reeves, she was closely involved To share how far she’s come, she tells me about her recent in finding the writer. “It was re- 34th birthday, which happened on set filming Ghosted. “It was ally important for me to hire a fe- at the beach and [there was] a fire pit, and we were working un- malewriter,becausetothatpoint til almost 1 a.m. At the end, I said, ‘Okay. This is my birthday, so when I got involved in the project, it was only the director, Len I need a Fireball.’” Yes, she recently discovered shot glasses of Wiseman, and another guy. And I was like, ‘That’s not going to Fireballs—which she understands most Americans associate work.’ So I interviewed, like, five or six female writers. We hired with college-era binge drinking—and thinks they’re the best Emerald Fennell, which I was so proud of.” Of her feminism, de thing she’s ever had. “I had everybody with me: my man, my Armas adds, “I grew up in the most macho-man culture, and at dogs, Chris and the crew. I wasn’t home having a romantic din- the same time, Cuba is just so free in so many other ways that ner; I was on set with my people doing what I love and at the sometimes I’m shocked with the things that I hear that are still beach and having a shot of Fireball,” she says. “So that was my conversations in this country. I’m like, ‘We’re still here?’” 34th birthday. And it is the happiest I’ve been.”▪ 88

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HO U SE PR OUD

Left: The house may be most associated with red, but Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli is having a love affair with hot pink, which dominated his fall 2022 lineup. Jacket, $3,500, tights, $300, Valentino. Handbag, $4,500, platforms, $1,190, Valentino Garavani. Right: Corseting is as common as supermodels on the Dolce & Gabbana runway, and the designers found new ways to engage with the motif this season. Top, $5,645, pants, $2,495, Dolce & Gabbana. THIS SEASON, FASHION’S BIGGEST NAMES GOT BACK TO DOING WHAT THEY DO BEST—LOOKING AHEAD WHILE HONORING THEIR RICH DESIGN HERITAGE, FROM CHANEL’S CLASSIC TWEEDS TO PRADA’S WHIMSICAL, UNEXPECTED PAIRINGS. PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHANIEL GOLDBERG. STYLED BY ALEX WHITE.

Anthony Vaccarello channeled an Yves- worthy Parisian glamazon for his lineup of strong-shouldered coats and tuxedo silhouettes. Coat, $4,190, brooch, $695, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.

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Against a tweed backdrop, Virginie Viard unveiled a show celebrating the fabric, one of Chanel’s key codes since its inception. Jacket, $8,300, shorts,$1,400, thigh-high socks, $875,boots, $2,400, necklaces, from $2,200, vanity purse, $2,400, Chanel.

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Hollywood, from Richard Gere in American Gigolo to countless red-carpet denizens, has benefited from Giorgio Armani’s talents. This season, he returned the favor with pieces worthy of the film colony’s Art Deco heyday. Coat, blouse, $1,395, trousers, $1,395, Giorgio Armani.

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