UK'S NUMBER 1 SEWING MAG! BegInner ISSUE NINETY FOUR FRESH I bag-MakIng MarIe LawLor on RepReSenTaTion BRIC and IncLuSivIty IN SIZES 10-30 SHTIRhTe DLRuESluS with 4 options to sew! PLUS HOWTO: Bag-making Simple quilting Belt embroidery organic textiles 6 dreamy gifts to sew for good vibes arelaxinggetaway 8 playful new looks to sew for your wardrobe PLUS: Felt flower crown 10 tips for sewing shirts PJ bottoms and robe
GetawaY gifts p Bo T m So simple to sew and a dream to wear, these elasticated pyjama bottoms will be a welcome addition to your nightwear collection. We love the simplicity of these in a muted, warm colour; the perfect pair to slip on as you start to wind down. T eb Keep this practical, durable tote as a blank canvas, or get creative and use appliqué, embroidery or paint to personalise it with your own design. If you’re keeping yours plain, you can use a bold webbing to inject some fun and colour into this project. WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 33
getaway Gifts Sc U Ch E Keep your hair tied back and off your face for an undisturbed night of sleep. These chunky scrunchies will also come in handy for tying your hair back if you’re off for a lovely soak in the bath before bedtime. Use scraps from your robe or PJ bottoms for a matching set. Ov R I t b Pack up your troubles and head off for a relaxing night away with this simple and stylish overnight carrier. With a zip closure and front pocket, you can keep your nighttime essentials secure and organised, and why not experiment with some subtle colourblocking like we did! 34 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
getaway gifts 01 02 05 06 Overnight Bag CUTTING OUT a horizontal line 15cm up from the bottom edge joining the two vertical lines (this is where you will YOU WILL NEED Step one From fabric A cut: sew the pocket). Mark the centre along these Front and Back: two 65x54cm, cut a 12cm square horizontal lines (so you can centre the pocket). Q Fabric A: 70x110cm for the main bag from each of the bottom corners. 01 Step four Repeat to mark the Back, but this time Q Fabric B: 20x30cm for the pocket Step two From fabric B cut: skip the last step (marking pocket lines). Pocket: 20x26cm and zip tabs Zip Tabs: two 9x3cm ADDING THE OUTER POCKET Q Fabric C: 50x25cm for the binding Step three From fabric C cut: Q Zip: 60cm Pocket Binding: 20x4cm Step one Fold one long edge of the Pocket Q Webbing, 3cm wide: 3m Zip Binding: two 3x4cm Binding to the wrong side (WS) by 1cm, press. Q Erasable fabric pen Bag Sides Binding: two 43x4.5cm Step two Place the Pocket Binding RS facing the Q Matching sewing thread Bag Bottom Binding: 41x4.5cm Pocket top along the 20cm top edge, so the raw Q Basic sewing kit Bag Box Bottom Binding: two 25x4.5cm unfolded edge lines up with the Pocket top. Sew with an 8mm seam allowance. Press the strip up FABRICS USED MARKING THE OUTERS over the sewn seam and press, then fold the Q Crossweave Linen Look and Denim Pocket Binding over, clip to hold then topstitch. Step one Using an erasable pen, mark the right Step three Mark the centre across the top and Natural Seeded and Red Soft from side (RS) of the Front with the following points: bottom pocket edges. Align the bottom raw edge Organic Textile Company, mark the centre across the 65cm width at the top of the Pocket with the bottom 15cm horizontal organiccotton.biz. edge, then mark 8cm either side of the centre. line, matching the marked centre points. The RS of Mark the centre across the bottom edge, then the Pocket should be below the line (the bound NOTES mark 8cm either side. Draw vertical lines from the edge will hang over the bottom edge of the Q Use a 1cm seam allowance. top 8cm marks down to the marks on the bottom. Front). Pin then sew the Pocket bottom edge to Q Use a walking foot if you have one. The gap is where the strap inner edges will line up. the Front, 1cm below the marked line. Q Our bag is made with a heavy Step two Draw horizontal lines 6cm and 9cm from Step four Press the Pocket up, so it is now RS up, the top edge, drawing a line 5cm wide where the and the bound edge aligns with the top horizontal natural denim with a softer denim two vertical strap lines are. marked line, matching marked central points (on for the zip tabs and pocket. This Step three Draw a horizontal line 15cm down from the pocket top and 15cm horizontal line). Pin, then means we haven’t needed to the top edge joining the two vertical lines topstitch 2–3mm away from the bottom seam. use interfacing. together (this is the pocket top edge), then draw 36 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
getaway gifts 03 04 07 08 ADDING THE STRAPS Binding strip to the WS by 1cm along one of its just sewn seam back and press. Topstitch along 3cm sides, press. Add the Zip Binding strip to one the edge of the seam – we sewed two topstitching Step one Cut the webbing into two. Take one of your Zip Tabs, sewing in place with a 1cm seam rows to ensure our zip stayed flat. 05 Strap and fold in half to find the centre. Mark 15cm allowance. Fold the Zip Binding to the WS of your Step eight Repeat to join the zip to the Back. 06 away from the centre on both sides. Draw a line Zip Tab. Clip to hold. across the 3cm width of the Strap at each of these Step two Fold over the other end of the Zip Tab to SEWING THE BAG TOGETHER points. Fold the Strap in half lengthways, clipping the WS by 1cm and press. Then fold this finished the two long edges together between the points, Zip Tab in half and press. The Zip Tab should now Step one Open the zip. Place the Front and Back and making sure the long edges are aligned and be 4cm long. Repeat to make your second Zip Tab. RS facing. Clip the two sides and bottom edges 3cm marked lines meet where the Strap is folded. Step three The bound zip needs to finish at 62cm. together, then stay stitch to hold. Sew the folded over Strap together across this This is 3cm less than the width of the Front and Step two Take one of the Bag Sides Binding strips, 30cm length, sewing close to the edges. Back pieces. To reduce bulk at the side seams, fold over one long edge by 1cm to the WS and Step two Repeat to make the second Strap. make sure the zip ends sandwiched between the press. Place the binding RS facing the raw edges of Step three Place a Strap on top of the Front. The Zip Tabs finish 1cm or so away from the folded the bag side. The bottom edge of the side should inner long edge should align with the left vertical over ends of the Zip Tabs. line up with the bottom edge of the binding strip, line and the folded edge should face the Front. Step four Take the zip and sandwich the ends there should be 2cm or so of binding over the top Step four Sew this half of the strap to the Front. between the two Zip Tabs. Clip in place then edge of the bag. Clip to hold. Topstitching the Strap from the bottom edge, up measure the zip to make sure it is 62cm long with Step three Sew the binding to the bag with 12mm to the 6cm top horizontal line, then across the tabs, trim the zip down if necessary – remember seam allowance. This will also sew the bag side Strap along that line, then down to the 9cm to leave that gap between the ends of the zip and together. Fold the strip back and over to the other horizontal line, then across again. Sew an ‘x’ across the folded over edge of the Zip Tab. side of the seam. Fold over the top edge of the this just sewn box, sewing across the top Step five Sew the tabs in place, topstitching across binding and place it inside the back of the binding horizontal line again to add support to the seam, the binding so it matches the top of the pocket. to finish. Clip to hold then topstitch in place. 07 then sew down the other edge. 02 Sew a row of zigzag stitching to hold the zip tab Step four Repeat to add the binding strips to the Step five Repeat steps to sew the other end of the fabric edges to the zip’s fabric edges. bottom and second side seam. 08 Strap to the bag. This will also finish the Pocket. 03 Step six Mark the centre point of the zip and place Step five To box the corners, pull each corner Step six Repeat to add the other Strap to the Back. the zip teeth side down centrally across the top section outwards and clip together nesting seams edge of the bag front. Clip to hold. 04 – make sure both side seams nest the same way. ADDING THE ZIP Step seven Sew the zip with a 1cm seam. Fold the Stay stitch together, then add the binding strips. Step six Turn RS out through the zip. Step one Fold over one of the edges of a Zip WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 37
getaway gifts 01 02 03 04 Cosmetics pouch CUTTING OUT ASSEMBLING THE BAG YOU WILL NEED Step one From fabric A cut: Step one Cut away a 3cm square from each Outer Main: two 27x16cm bottom corner on the Lining pieces. Q Fabric A: 30x35cm for the outer Zip End Strips: two 6x2.5cm Step two Place the zip centrally on top of one of main and zip tabs Step two From fabric B cut: the outer sections along the top edge, teeth Outer Base: two 27x10cm facing down. Place one of the Lining pieces RS Q Fabric B: 30x20cm for the outer base Step three From fabric C cut: down on top, so the zip is sandwiched between Q Fabric C: 30x50cm for the lining Lining: two 27x24cm (lining) them. Clip to hold, then sew the sandwich Q Wadding: 30x50cm Step four From the wadding cut: together with a 1cm seam allowance. 02 Q Zip: 30cm Wadding: two 27x24cm Step three Fold the Lining back so the WS of the Q Matching sewing thread Outer section is facing the WS of the Lining and Q Erasable fabric pen MAKING THE BAG OUTERS press. Topstitch along the edge of the seam. Q Basic sewing kit Repeat with the second outer and lining. 03 Step one Fold over the short sides of the two Zip Step four Open the zip. Place the Outer sections RS FABRICS USED End Strips by 1cm to the wrong side (WS) and facing and the Lining RS facing, aligning all edges. Q Crossweave Pink and Stripe press. Fold in half to make two strips 2x2.5cm. Pin/clip together. 04 Step two Trim the zip to 25cm. Sandwich the zip Step five Sew up both long sides, taking care to Shampoo and Denim Red Soft from ends between the Zip End Strips and topstitch. not to sew through the Zip Ends fabric. Sew up the Organic Textile Company, Step three Take one of the Outer Base pieces and bottom edge of the Outer sections, and sew up organiccotton.biz. pin it right side (RS) facing along the bottom edge the bottom edge of the Lining, leaving a turning of one of the Outer Main pieces. Sew together. gap in the bottom of the Lining. NOTES Press seam open. Cut a 3cm square from each Step six To box the four corners, pull each corner Q Use a 1cm seam allowance. bottom corner (on the Outer Base fabric). section outwards and pin/clip together, aligning Q Use a walking foot if you have one. Step four Cut a 3cm square from the bottom two seams. Sew together to create the box corner. corners on one Wadding piece. Pin the Outer Repeat to make all four corners. 38 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING piece WS facing the Wadding. Align all sides. Step seven Turn RS out through the turning gap, Step five Topstitch either side of the seam line, push out corners and seams. Tuck turning gap then stay stitch all the way around the outside. fabric inside and close by hand or by machine, Step six Repeat the above steps to make the tuck back inside the bag. Press to finish. second bag Outer section. 01
getaway gifts 01 02 03 04 Scrunchies MAKING UP SCRUNCHIE OUTER Step one Take the fabric A strip and fold it in half YOU WILL NEED lengthways wrong sides (WS) facing. Pin, then sew, leaving 4cm unsewn at both ends. Press. 01 For each scrunchie Step two Turn the sewn strip right side (RS) out Q Fabric A: 50x12cm through one of the open ends. Press. Q Elastic, 6mm: 21cm Step three Pin the short raw edges RS facing. 02 Q Matching sewing thread Step four Sew together with a 1cm seam Q Erasable fabric pen allowance, leaving 3cm gaps either side of the just Q Basic sewing kit sewn seam. Press, tucking the raw edges inside. FABRICS USED ADDING THE ELASTIC Q Crossweave Linen Look, Pink and Step one Thread the elastic through the scrunchie. Overlap the elastic by 1–2cm and pin to hold. 03 Stripe Shampoo from Organic Step two Sew the elastic together where pinned. Textile Company, organiccotton.biz. Sew across the overlapped elastic a number of times to secure it. NOTES Step three Close the scrunchie turning gap with Q Use a 1cm seam allowance. a small ladder stitch to finish. 04 0% o Y r Pu C a a t Or A i Te T l Co P n ! Use the code SSORG10 at the checkout to save 10% on high-quality, sustainable, organic fabric. This code is valid until 11 April 2023. organiccotton.biz WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 39
getaway gifts Simple robe 01 02 03 04 YOU WILL NEED Q Fabric A: 1.5m main fabric* Q Fabric B: 50cm contrast binding** Q Matching sewing thread Q Erasable pen FABRICS USED Q Crossweave Stripe Shampoo and Denim Blue from Organic Textile Company, organiccotton.biz. NOTES Q Use a 1cm seam allowance. Q *We used 1.5m of main fabric. The fabric needed depends on the size and the length you want, as well as how wide the fabric is and if the fabric is directional. Our robe is made to a UK 12. Q **We assume the contrast fabric is a minimum of 110cm from selvedge to selvedge. CUTTING OUT Step one From fabric A cut: Back: 66x80cm Front: two 33x80cm Sleeves: two 30x55cm Step two From fabric B cut: Main Body Binding: two 12x100cm Sleeve Binding: two 12x55cm PREPARING THE ROBE FRONT AND BACK a 12mm seam allowance. Step three Turn RS out. Fold over the contrast trim Step three Press the seam back so it runs for both Sleeves, WS together, where previously Step one Measure around the neck. Ours is 38cm, underneath the Sleeve Binding fabric. Then fold pressed. Pin then topstitch to close and finish the a quarter is 9.5cm. the Sleeve Binding in half WS together, so the Sleeve Binding. Step two Fold the Back in half right sides (RS) binding folded edge lines up on top of the back Step four Take the two Main Body Binding strips together along the 66cm width. Mark 4cm down seam stitching of the Sleeve back and covers that and sew them together along two short edges. from the top along the fold. Then mark 9.5cm stitching (so the stitching will be hidden once the Press the seam open. Fold in half WS together away either side of the folded raw edge. Draw binding is finished). Press again just to create along its length and press the fold, then press in a curve (for the back of the neck) and cut away. a memory on the fabric for finishing later. 01 one long raw edge by 1cm to the WS and press as Step three For both the Front pieces, draw 9.5cm Step four Fold the Sleeve in half RS together and for the Sleeve Binding. away from one of the long edges along the top mark the central point. Place the Sleeve on top of Step five Open out then place the binding short edge. Mark 35cm down from the top edge the robe, RS together, matching the shoulder unfolded raw edge RS together with the robe and cut away from the 9.5cm point along the top seam with the Sleeve central marked point and main body, matching the binding seam with the edge to the 35cm point along the long sides for aligning the long raw edges. Pin, then sew centre of the robe Back piece. Pin in place, then both fabric pieces. together. Finish the seam with a zigzag. 02 sew together. You will have a little bit of excess Step four Pin the Front pieces RS facing the Back Step five Repeat for the second Sleeve. If the fabric binding at the bottom edge of the robe. Trim off piece along the top edges, aligning the left and print is directional make sure you add the contrast the excess so that the binding end lines up with right sides and matching up the 9.5cm neck fabric trim to the opposite side of the first Sleeve. the bottom of the robe. This excess is just in case points. Sew together. Zigzag the seams and press you need a little extra when pinning it in place. 04 them back, then topstitch in place. SEWING THE ROBE TOGETHER Step six Press the seam back underneath the binding then follow the steps above for finishing PREPARING THE SLEEVES Step one Lay the robe flat with the Front and Back the Sleeve Binding to finish the robe binding. RS together and the Sleeves folded in half, so all Step one Fold one of the Sleeve Binding strips in raw edges line up. Pin in place then sew from the FINISHING OFF half along its 55cm length, wrong sides (WS) Sleeve Binding (making sure the 1cm folded over together, so it is 6cm tall and 55cm wide. Press edge of the Sleeve Binding is open), along the Step one Fold the bottom of the robe up by 2.5cm along the fold. Open out. Turn under the raw edge sleeve, then down to the bottom of the robe. and press. of one long side by 1cm to the WS and press. Repeat for both sides of the robe. 03 Step two Fold the pressed raw edge of the fabric Step two Place the Sleeve Binding unfolded edge Step two Zigzag the just sewn seams to finish inwards to meet the bottom edge to create RS facing along one of the 55cm edges of one of them and press seams to the back of the robe. a seam 1.25cm wide. Press then stitch in place. the Sleeve pieces. Pin then sew together with 40 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
getaway gifts Pyjama Bottoms 01 02 03 04 YOU WILL NEED Q Fabric A: 2m* (see notes) Q Elastic: 25mm–1m* Q Paper to create the pattern Q Pyjama bottoms or shorts that fit you Q Matching thread Q Erasable fabric pen Q Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Q Crossweave Pink from Organic Textile Company, organiccotton.biz. NOTES Q Use a 1cm seam allowance. Q *The fabric and elastic needed is dependent on the size of pyjama bottoms you want. CREATING THE PATTERN seams. Sew the pieces together as before, then Step six Pin the elastic together to check fit, then press the seam to the back. 03 cut off excess and sew together with two rows of Step one You need to create two pattern pieces, stitching along the elastic overlap for strength. the front of the pyjama bottoms and the back. Lay HEMMING THE BOTTOMS Pull the waistband outwards so the elastic pops the paper flat with the bottoms folded in half, so Step one Fold up the raw edge of one of the legs back inside the channel. the one side of the front of the bottoms is by 1cm to the wrong side (WS). Press. Fold and Step seven Pin, then sew the opening closed, showing. Smooth out the sides to mark the true press again so that the raw edge is enclosed and pulling the fabric straight as you go. outline of the bottoms. As the top is elasticated the bottom edge of the bottoms is along the 4cm the pattern piece from both sides will go straight marked line. Topstitch along the edge of the up and not curve inwards. Draw the outline. 01 folded seam. Press. Step two Repeat for the back of the bottoms, note Step two Repeat for the second leg. that the crotch seam is probably longer at the back so note how much longer. Also, the back will probably be wider. Step three For both the front and back, add 8cm to the top seam and 4cm to the bottom seam, as well as a 1cm seam allowance to both the side seams and the crotch seams. Step four Cut out the paper patterns and use them to create a mirror pair for both the front and back pieces from the fabric. Mark all four pieces as F (front) and B (back) and mark 1cm and 8cm down from the top edge and 4cm up from the bottom edges with the erasable pen. 02 SEWING THE FRONT AND BACK ADDING THE WAISTBAND Step one Take the two Front pieces, pin them right Step one Fold over the top edge of the bottoms to sides (RS) together along the curved seam and the WS by 1cm. Press. 04 sew from top to bottom. Then either pink or Step two Fold over this pressed edge to the 8cm zigzag stitch along the seam edge (or use an marked line on the WS. Press. This is the elastic overlocker if you have one). channel and should be slightly wider than 25mm. Step two Repeat for the two Back pieces. Press Step three Starting near the back seam, sew the both seams to the same side (this is so that when elastic channel to the bottoms, leaving a 6cm gap you join the Front and Back together the seams to insert the elastic. Sew close to the folded over will nest). edge. Topstitch very close to the top edge of the Step three Pin the bottoms Front to the bottoms bottoms also. Back RS together along the side seams. Sew Step four Measure the waist and work out how together as before. loose you would like the bottoms to be. Cut the Step four Press the side seams towards the back of elastic accordingly. the bottoms. Step five Using a safety pin, thread the elastic Step five Pin the crotch front and back RS through the elastic channel all the way around together, aligning the front and back central and out the other side. WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 41
getaway gifts 01 02 03 04 Tote Bag CUTTING OUT PUTTING THE TOTE TOGETHER Step one Place the Front and Back wrong sides YOU WILL NEED Step one From fabric A cut: (WS) together, aligning all edges. Clip to hold. 02 Front and Back: two 50x50cm Step two Sew along the two sides and along the Q Fabric A: 100x50cm for the outer Step two From the webbing cut: bottom edge. Trim off excess fabric, leaving 3mm. Q Webbing, 3cm wide: 160cm Straps: two 80cm lengths Step three Turn WS out so you see the inside of the Q Matching sewing thread tote. Push out seams and press smooth. Sew along Q Erasable pen ADDING THE STRAPS the sides and bottom as before with a 1cm seam Q Basic sewing kit allowance. This will encase the raw edges. 03 Step one Take the Front and Back pieces and cut FABRICS USED a 7cm square from each bottom corner. BOXING THE CORNERS Q Denim Natural Seeded from Step two Draw horizontal lines 3cm and 6cm Step one Turn the tote RS out. Pull one of the down from the top edge on the right side (RS) of bottom corners out so that the bottom and side Organic Textile Company, the fabric. Mark the centre point along the top seams align. Make sure that the seams nest to organiccotton.biz. edge of the fabric, and then mark vertical lines reduce bulk – finger press one French seam to one down from the top edge to the 6cm marked line, side, and the other to the other side. Clip then sew NOTES 8cm either side of the top central mark. These are together and trim off excess fabric as before. 04 Q Use a 1cm seam allowance. where the straps will be sewn in. Step two Turn the tote WS out and sew along the Q Use a walking foot if you have one. Step three Fold over the fabric along the 3cm corner boxed seam to create a French seam. Q Our tote has French seams as this marked line and press. Then fold over again so Step three Repeat for the second corner of the that the 6cm marked line is now the top edge and tote to neatly finish the insides. neatly encloses the seam allowance. the raw edges are enclosed. Press. Q Fabric is first sewn wrong side Step four Insert one of the straps (making sure the Jess Entwistle (she/her) is strap isn’t twisted) into the fold so that the strap a freelance designer maker. together, then turned so right sides inner edges line up with the 8cm marked lines. She shares her makes at are facing and sewn again. Clip to hold. 01 @jessjellybgood – a name Step five Topstitch along the folded top edge, and inspired by her childhood 42 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING then along the folded bottom edge. Sew slowly as nickname, Jelly! you’ll be sewing through a lot of layers. Step six Repeat steps to make the other side of the bag with straps attached.
advertorial one of a kind Nancy Wheeler, manager of the Organic Textile Company, tells us more about their lovely fabrics THE ORGANIC TEXTILE COMPANY is a family Nowadays, most of our fleece and jersey is business based on the Dyfi Eco Park in Wales. knitted for us in Turkey. Our bamboo silks are We offer an array of organic, ethical and woven for us in China, and most of our printed sustainable fabrics and haberdashery fabrics come from North India. All our carefully sourced from the UK and around the beautiful bespoke fabrics come from Genesh world. The company was founded in 2005 by and his weavers. These are made in small my parents, Phil and Ann, originally as a batches of 100–300m, with the dyeing, market stall in our local town of Llanidloes. weaving and printing all done by hand. We also work with a women’s co-operative called They soon became aware of the damage Gramodaya, who sew up our ready-made that growing non-organic cotton and relying muslin squares, scarves, cushions and aprons. on unhealthy pesticides causes in Third World countries. Thanks to the internet, Phil was able It takes many months for our fabrics to go to make contact with Genesh in Kerala, India, from an idea to production, and weaving can who was our first supplier of organic cotton. take three–four months. Our fabrics are then shipped over to us; it can take six–eight weeks As the business grew and wholesale but it’s more environmentally friendly than requests increased we began sourcing organic airfreight. We get eight big consignments cotton and bamboo fabrics from North India, every year. It feels like Christmas when they Turkey and China. The haberdashery range arrive, we can’t wait to see our lovely new grew too, with organic cotton threads sourced fabrics! See more at organiccotton.biz from the Netherlands and the USA.
PATSY OVERALLS With their relaxed loose fit and call for natural fabrics, Readytosew’s Patsy Overalls epitomise casual comfort
PATSY OV RA S We can guarantee that introducing the Patsy Washed linen Overalls to your wardrobe is not a decision in mustard yellow, you’ll ever regret! This gloriously comfy pattern from Readytosew (@ready_to_sew) was fabricsgalore.co.uk designed with beginners in mind, so you won’t see any closures around here! Patsy is the Paint denim blue linen ultimate lazy day wear, or something to pop on viscose, lamazifabrics.com over your favourite tee if you’re heading to the shops or to meet a friend for coffee. So easy to Old Rose Two Tone Check, wear and style, you’ll want to live in these Meet MILK, lamazifabrics.com throughout every season. If you’re looking for styling or fabric inspiration for your Patsy Overalls, you’ll find tons by following the hashtag #PatsyReadyToSew on Instagram. There’s also a wide range of resources on Readytosew’s website (readytosew.fr) for Patsy – there’s a sewalong to follow as well as guides for cinching the waist, making a full bust adjustment and altering the crotch and leg length. You might also enjoy their tutorial for making the pattern as a pinafore dress, and they also have an inspiring blog post about making a pair of these dungarees from old denim scraps. YOU WILL NEED Delphine checks navy linen, lamazifabrics.com Fabric, 140cm wide: Q Size range 1, sizes 4–12: 2.2mx140cm FABRIC INSPIRATION Q Size range 1, sizes 14–18: 2.5mx140cm Q Size range 2, sizes 18–24: 2.7mx140cm one-piece wonder Q Size range 2, sizes 26–30: 3mx140cm Q Basic sewing kit Make sure the Patsy Overalls best suit your wardrobe and style by choosing NOTES a fabric that goes with everything Q Seam allowance is 1cm. Q This pattern includes half sizes. Raspberry stripe chambray, fabricsgalore.co.uk RECOMMENDED FABRICS Q Medium-weight fabric (240gr/m2) ranging from linen, ramie or hemp. P ac ca ap fke-aetursaen! adjus bl ri o v Ecru and blue stripe denim, sewmesomething.co.uk Haze Flamenco linen, Laundered linen thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk in Arctic Dusk, sewmesomething.co.uk WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 45
CREATING A COMMUNITY Disabled sewists are revolutionising representation and showing us the importance of inclusion Written by Marie Lawlor
A GOOD R AD The sewing community as a whole has people with a shared passion was a beautiful domino effect of self acceptance; undergone a kind of reckoning in the immeasurably positive for my wellbeing. At for each disabled person who saw someone last couple of years. Progress is this time however, I wasn’t aware of any other else take the plunge, they would begin continuing to be made to ensure that disabled sewists. sharing this side of themselves. marginalised groups are being seen and listened to. Over time, people started to become This ripple effect has created some hugely When I first began sewing in 2016, I didn’t aware that I have Osteogenesis Imperfecta, important friendships, resources and see anyone visibly disabled on my Instagram but I never included any photographs of activism, which in the last two years has feed, and certainly not in wider publications myself in my wheelchair or using crutches. bloomed into an online community of and in the media. I had a fixed idea that to show a photograph disabled sewists. For me, one of the best of my sewing, I needed to be standing for it things to evolve is that we’re in charge of our My interest in sewing began during to be acceptable. It took two years for my own narrative. People can see that disabled rehabilitation from a particularly gruelling crutches to appear on my feed, and this was people have or want the same things in life surgery. My occupational therapist felt that as them. Whether that’s enjoying single life, I would benefit from starting a hobby, just for “It seemed like a having a partner and families, or loving their the sake of enjoyment. I dusted off my beautiful domino effect pets and going to work. unused sewing machine from my wedding 14 years previously. I read the manual, and of self acceptance.\" STARTING CONVERSATIONS without a clue on what seam allowance was, or that you should change the needle after a through absolute necessity as I had Prominent member of the disabled while, I made some gorgeous bunting for my a fractured hip. sewing community, Samantha daughter’s bedroom. I had found my hobby! (@purplesewingcloud), has made huge As I became more comfortable having my progress by speaking up about what After reading through Tilly and the photograph taken using my wheelchair or inclusion in the sewing world should look Buttons’ Love at First Stitch, the idea of crutches, I began to receive messages from like. She has done, and continues to do, some making my own clothes was cemented. To be other disabled sewists. Not only did we begin extremely important work by talking to able to make clothes that fit, and that I could to form deep connections, but many who sewing machine manufacturers, shops, craft adapt to my needs, was so exciting! were new to the community shared that festivals and other businesses. She asks them these images had helped them in the process the tough but necessary questions about GETTING COMFORTABLE of accepting and showing their mobility aid what they are doing for accessibility and in their photographs. It seemed like what their future plans are for inclusion. In January 2017 I tentatively posted my first successful creation to Instagram – the Cleo (Left-hand page) Marie modelling By Hand dress from Tilly and the Buttons. From there, London’s Marie pattern. (Below, L to R) Marie at I began conversing with people online about her adaptive sewing table and in her M8162 our love of sewing; immersing myself with flares; Samantha in her hacked Gilbert Top.
A GOOD R AD GUIDETOPACING more inclusive and accessible with the content you share online. Pacing is a huge part of my sewing practice, and often an important lifestyle change for disabled people. Pacing requires you to break There are many reasons why people may your work into manageable chunks to help manage pain or fatigue not be able to listen to audio communication – being deaf or hard of hearing, sensory TAKE A BREAK and sewing a collar. I may rearrange the order sensitivity, as well as learning difficulties and Breaks are the most important feature of of operations to avoid unnecessary movement. language barriers. All of this makes captions pacing, and we all know how easy it is to get If step 1, 10 and 16 is to press something, ready on audio content really important. Luckily, lost in a project. It can seem like everyone is for sewing, then I will perform all of this in one Instagram has finally allowed people to quickly making things, and sometimes it can go while standing at the iron, and everything is automatically add captions on their stories. feel like you are being left behind. When I talk prepped and ready. about my slow-paced activity, I have received People with visual difficulties benefit from messages from people who appreciate that SET A TIMER an image description in a social media post, slowing down is being normalised. Most importantly, before beginning, decide as well as alt text for those who use a screen on an allotted amount of time and set a timer/ reader. To do this, provide a short description It is a skill that anyone could benefit from, alarm. I use my phone, but often this doesn’t of the image on the post. It doesn’t need to especially those who are short on spare time. work as I will continue after silencing the alarm! be long, but include the main elements that You would be surprised at how much can be To rectify this, setting the cooker alarm means make the picture. This should be at the end achieved by pacing activities. I have to physically remove myself from the of your post. For enhanced access, click next, work in order to switch it off. Either way, an advanced settings, and AltText. BATCH SEWING alarm is a good way to prompt yourself to stop, Read through the sewing instructions and get up and stretch. In order to make your list of hashtags more batch together certain tasks such as preparing readable for screen readers and for people with dyslexia, think about providing your This has created opportunities for hashtag list with camel case. For example, wide-ranging and frank conversations to be instead of #simplysewing, capitalise each had, and most importantly, has ensured that word for easier reading – #SimplySewing. a disabled person is at the centre of the Also, for the benefit of screen reader users, conversation, asking and/or answering minimising the use of emojis is helpful! the questions. It’s also important to include accessibility A pivotal idea that helped to enhance the information on your website, in events visibility of disabled people came from Gina literature and on invitations. (@sewdisabled) in the form of the hashtag #SewnShownSeated. This highlighted the SENDING A MESSAGE very real issue that wheelchair users have when buying or making their clothes – the fit The importance of the rise of disabled people and look can be very different for someone being seen and heard outside of the sphere who is sitting all day. This prompts everyone of disability awareness and advocacy is not (not just disabled people) to include a to be underestimated. When people see photograph of their garment when they are disability normalised on their feed, it makes sat down and add #SewnShownSeated to the them better equipped to be more mindful of list of hashtags in their post. inclusion in their everyday life. Some of the most important messages of support have SMALL CHANGES, BIG IMPACT been from non-disabled people realising they need to support and push accessibility Once the door had been opened for people to begin thinking and talking HELPFULTOOLS about physical accessibility, a bigger conversation about disability These simple gadgets can inclusion began. People are make a real difference to recognising that the sewing community is a reflection of your everyday sewing wider society; there are members who are deaf/hard Fiskars ergonomic scissors – a great of hearing, blind/partially tool if you struggle from hand fatigue. sighted, and neurodivergent. Often, people are unsure as Prym ergonomic range – the seam to how they can make ripper in particular is an essential! accommodations to include such a myriad of Good lighting – I use a Daylight lamp to needs, but there are prevent eye and neck strain. some simple but effective steps to Needle threader – a built-in threader on ensure that you are your machine is particularly helpful. Haemostatic clamp – for turning small tubes and collars and cuffs!
A GOOD R AD change in their personal and professional the industry. Sewing machine companies Deer and Doe (left-hand page and above left) lives. These small incremental improvements such as Juki and BERNINA now have machine and Friday Pattern Company (above right) have can add up to something life changing. accessibility and assistance guides on their begun working with disabled models to websites. There are a variety of hashtags showcase their designs. Opportunities have opened up within the online to help people find and connect with sewing community meaning disabled people other disabled sewists, and communities themselves represented, as well as to are recognised for their talents. I never such as @sewenabled are doing important normalise this imagery for non-disabled dreamed when I began sewing that I would work to create a list of adaptive patterns. people. Some of the subsequent write for a national magazine and sewing Pattern companies have listened to the inappropriate questions and comments also patterns would feature a disabled person as reasoning behind #SewnShownSeated and gave a small representation of what life is their model. Looking to the future, I hope to most now provide a seated model on their often like for some disabled people daily. see more disabled people represented on images. Furthermore, Friday Pattern However, it did allow an opportunity for pattern images, Instagram posts and in print. Company, Deer and Doe and By Hand some archaic views to be challenged and I love to see that some companies have London all now have someone visibly changed. This is why representation, even on begun paying disabled people to consult on disabled modelling their patterns. a small level, matters. the accessibility of their marketing, products and physical environment. What does that mean to the disabled Marie (she/her) is a tea and cake sewing community? I received an abundance enthusiast and self-taught sewist. REPRESENTATION MATTERS of supportive messages as a result of being She shares her makes and the model for By Hand London. It’s so experiences as a disabled sewist Things aren’t perfect, and there’s still work to important for people to see someone like at @marie_stitchedup. do, but we’re starting to see change across FABULOUS FEEDS TO FOLLOW Add these talented sewists to your feed for fabulous makes and crafty inspo @sewpippa Pippa lives @theonearmedsewist @whatsophiesewed @purplesewingcloud @sewdisabled Gina @natalie_sew_k ‘Slowly with her partner, cat and Gill started sewing in 2018 Starting to sew was the best Samantha is a passionate started #SewnShownSeated, does it’ is Natalie’s motto for fabric stash. She is aiming to and loves being able to make thing Sophie’s ever done! It’s sewist making invaluable which has made such a making, inspired by the sew her entire wardrobe. clothes that fit her properly. opened up her world again. changes to the industry. difference to so many. online disabled community. WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 49
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